The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.
( 2 minute walk )
PUBLISHER’S LETTER A winter wind is blowing in, and with rainy season trickling to a close, it’s high time to head north. Join us as we travel out of town—from the “Rose of the North” to the lush Golden Triangle and back to the banks of the mighty Mekong—in our biggest issue ever. This month, the travel section is rich with tales of the North and Northeast. Joe Cummings breaks down the top restaurants, resorts, and attractions in Best of Chiang Mai. Later, he goes on the hunt for a rare kind of sausage made the old-fashioned way. Then we dive in to Chiang Mai’s many adventure activities before shipping off to the elephant-friendly Anantara Golden Triangle. Jim Algie visits Khon Kaen, where a few villages keep alive a bizarre tradition of living with reptiles, and, lastly, we explore Nong Khai, the multicultural Mekong town famed for the breath-taking Sala Kaew Ku. Bangkok’s hottest restaurants and bars claim the limelight in Food & Drink. Bangkok 101 Food Editor John Krich gets his fill of Italian fare at Sensi, La Bottega di Luca, and the new Theo Mio. In fact, this month’s Hot Plate, the chic Galleria Milano, is Italian, too. In Nightlife, rustic fairytale-themed The Third Pig lets us in while designer Ashley Sutton opens up about his Thai tapas venue, Hot Rod. All this, as well as our 101 archive and extras, can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
NOVEMBER 2015 | 3
publisher
Mason Florence
CONTRIBUTORS
editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers food editor
John Krich associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
GABY DOMAN is a Bangkokbased writer with a serious social media habit. When she’s not at the gym, she can be found undoing all her good work in a bakery or a bar. A brownie or Dirty Martini (respectively), if you’re buying.
Joe Cummings editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Rachel Kwok, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Nicola Jones-Crossley, Matt Wilde, Oliver Benjamin contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Niran Choonhachat, Supphanat Kusolphithak, Anupong Hotawaisaya general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
SEP T EM BER 2014 | 5
CONTENTS 50
40 62
22
CITY PULSE
58 chiang mai open
114 food for thought:
8 metro beat
mic nights
niikki pure spirit
14 my bangkok: jay
62 sausage quest
115 eat like nym
montonn
66 where reptiles rule
16 hot plates: galleria
72 nong khai nirvana
milano
76 heritage: phrae
18 best of bkk: love is
78 making merit: karen
in the air
hilltribes trust
136
22 out & about: a tale of the temple fair
ART & CULTURE 80 exhibition highlights
SNAPSHOTS
84 interview: kachama
28 tom’s two satang
86 interview: matteo
30 joe’s bangkok
messervy
32 bizarre thailand
88 cheat notes:
NIGHTLIFE
34 very thai
cemetery of splendour
124 nightlife news
90 photo feature:
126 review: the third pig, 126
a day of photography
hot rod
TRAVEL
130 imbibe: chivas
36 upcountry now 40 best of chiang mai
90
FOOD & DRINK
46 on the block:
98 food & drink news
nimman
100meal deals
136 new collection:
48 hotel review:
101 editor’s essay
disaya
anantara golden triangle
102 restaurant reviews:
138 unique boutique:
50 lanna heals
sensi, la bottegia di luca,
songbird
54 adrenaline rush
seasonal tastes, the girl
SHOPPING
and the pig, theo mio,
WELLNESS
bistro m, benihana
141 myth spa
112 in the kitchen: markus rotard
REFERENCE 118 sightseeing
ON THE COVER Elequainted: An elephant reaches for bamboo in the Golden Triangle Photo by Oliver Benjamin
6 | NOVEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
ART
FILM The 13th World Film Festival of Bangkok once again brings top international cinema to the city from November 1322. The festival will focus on the work of emerging filmmakers in Asia, in particular those in Southeast Asia, but will also share films from across the globe. As in years past, there will be workshops, talks, exhibitions, and masterclasses on top of the screenings. Movies will screen at SF World Cinema at CentralWorld. For more information, go to worldfilmbkk.com.
Galleries’ Night On two nights after Loy Krathong, November 27 and 28, the much-loved Galleries’ Night returns to Bangkok under the theme of “the light.” Put on by the French Embassy, the event involves 40 spaces around Bangkok opening their doors from 7pm until midnight—on November 27, twenty galleries along the Silom BTS line participate; on November 28, twenty along the Sukhumvit line participate. Art-hoppers will enjoy free access to every venue, as well as a range of events and activities, such as talks, openings, and live installations. One of the highlights will take place at the opening ceremony at The French Embassy (Charoen Krung 36), when French artist Matteo Messervy reveals his stunning floodlight project (for more information, see pages 86-87). To learn more about the event and to start planning your itinerary, visit facebook.com/galleriesnight.
FESTIVALS
Girl Rising From November 26-29, the first edition of the UN WOMEN International Film Festival on Ending Violence against Women and Girls takes place at SF Cinema at CentralWorld. Violence against women and girls has long been a hot button issue, particularly in Asia. The festival seeks to improve discourse about the subject in Thailand, and it’s doing so through a series of awardwinning films from across the globe. On the docket are documentaries, fictional narratives, and accounts based on real events, including “Girl Rising,” “Ilo Ilo,” “Girlhood,” “Refugiado,” and “Brave Miss World,” among other films telling stories of survival and triumph against harassment, abuse, and more abstract forms of violence. All screenings are free. There will also be panel discussions on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at 7pm each night. Organizers urge audience members to get involved by using the hashtag #EVAWGFilmFest. For movie times and information, visit asiapacific.unwomen.org. 8 | NOVEMBER 2015
Dream Castle Dream Castle, a new festival where “all [kinds of] dreams are gathered,” will be held on the massive grounds of MSL Motorsports Land (72 Phahonyothin Rd) on November 21 and 22. Abiding by an oh-so-hipster “American Indian” theme doubtless to include the liberal appearance of dream-catchers, the event features handicraft products, photography and graphic illustrations to peruse, food, and live music. Indie artists such as Praw Kanitkul, Pie & Cha, Aey The Voice, Yellow Fang, 15th Scenery, Plastic Plastic, and Hawa (Piece Peace) will perform during the festival. Each day includes over 300 vendors—come hungry and ready to shop—and runs from 2pm to 10pm. For more information, visit facebook.com/lamoonproject. bangkok101.com
metro beat
CITY PU LSE
ELECTRONIC
Waterzonic Russian duo Matisse & Sadko, who also happen to be brothers, take over Levels (Sukhumvit 11) on November 12. The brothers have hit the spotlight in a big way, thanks, in part, to the attention doted on them by Martin Garrix and Steve Angello, formerly of super-group Swedish House Mafia. Tracks “Hi Scandinavia” and “Amulet,” among others, have taken the festival circuit by storm. A recent collaboration with Vigel on a track called “Tengu” marks their latest effort, which will doubtless pop up during their set at Levels. The next two weeks, on November 19 and November 26, respectively, the club first welcomes Dutch duo Gynetic and then rising Swiss house and trap star Karim Houas. The parties start at 9pm, and tickets for each are B500 (includes one drink). A year after its wet and wild debut at Rajamangala, Waterzonic is back at SCG Stadium (Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd) on November 28. The EDM festival was a major hit in 2014 with acts like Nervo and Dmitri Vegas on the bill. The line-up looks just as strong this year. Dmitri Vegas & Like Mike return, and they will be joined by Dannic, W&W, and Goldfish & Blink, among others yet to be announced. The party is sponsored by Smirnoff Midnight 100, the recently launched energy drink laced with vodka, so energy should be high at all hours (thank you, guarana). Tickets are B2800 for general admission and B3800 for VIP, a designation that includes fast track entry as well as a private bar, private restroom, and dry zone. Visit waterzonic.com for information.
ROCK & POP Live House Studio (JJ Green, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd) brings in ska rockers Reel Big Fish on November 20. After hitting it big with “Sell Out” in 1997, the band fell off the mainstream radar, going through myriad lineup changes, but continuing to produce. Independent since 2006, Reel Big Fish still tours and puts out new music, though only the lead singer remains from the original group. Fans of ska-punk music—or energetic live shows, in general—are in for a treat. Doors open at 7pm; the show starts an hour later. Tickets cost B1500, are limited 800, and are available at livehousebangkok.com. bangkok101.com
Here’s a changeup for your normal nightlife routine. On November 7, Sangsom MOVEaBAR, a mobile bar and bistro serving pop-up parties, makes its return to Bangkok’s Jarun Burapharat Stadium (Rama IX Rd, Makkasan ARL). But that’s not all. Held in collaboration with ZAAP, the MOVEaBAR will bring a moon-themed stage, one featuring big-name Thai pop acts Palmy, Stamp, Singto Numchok, Mild, Scrubb, and Sixty Miles. Doors open at 5pm. Tickets are available at eventpop.me or at the door for B199. Food and drinks will be available at the bar. NOVEMBER 2015 | 9
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metro beat
SPORTS Last month, it was the Color Run. This month, it’s The Music Run’s turn to add excitement to exercise. Held at Suan Luang—Rama IX Park—on November 7, the second 5k Music Run in Bangkok features five zones blasting different brands of music: dance, hip-hop, old school, rock, and pop. This isn’t a competitive race, but rather a celebratory experience. Enjoy the music and do something good for the body. Standard entry is B700. For “Rock Stars,” it’s B1100. Runners get a big bag of goodies, too. More information is available at thaiticketmajor.com. Across town on November 7, top cyclists race around Ratchadamnoen Avenue and Khao San Road at the Bangkok Criterium. Taking place at night, the race pits racers against one another in various categories, including fixed gear and elite road bike (men and women for all categories). Like its forerunner held in Phuket last April, this event is sponsored by the Singha Corporation. Even those new to cycling, or totally unfamiliar with it, will find it hard to resist the excitement that comes from riders flying by at top speed. A post-race party with DJs will cater to the recreationally inclined. The race is open for registration. For more information, visit bangkokcriterium.com. For something entirely different, head to Flow House Bangkok (A Square, Sukhumvit 26), where on November 14 it plays host to the World Flow Championships— including the World Flowboarding Final. See top athletes and teams perform stunning tricks on stationary waves, battling for prizes from a purse of ten thousand dollars (US). Hang around for the after-party, when the riders have wrapped up the competition and can cut loose. Go to flowhousebangkok.com for more details.
Sathorn Square Vertical Fun Run Denied the grandeur of natural hills, Bangkok looks toward the sky. Runners fed up with flat terrain can look ahead to the Sathorn Square Vertical Fun Run, a 2k sprint chased by the challenging ascent of forty flights of stairs on November 22. This is a friendly race aimed at promoting good health in office workers while also raising money for local charities. That being said, it’s offering serious swag. A lucky draw will give away, among other things, two Canon cameras and one iPhone 6s, and cash prizes go to the first- and second-place male and female runners. Entry is B500 and limited to 800 runners only. Visit Sathorn-square.com/vertical for more information. 10 | NOV EMBER 2015
MARKETS The Nielson Hays Library (195 Surawong Rd) brings back Bangkok’s best book sale on November 14 and 15, from 9.30am until 4pm each day. A veritable sea of second-hand books and magazines, from best-selling fiction to stacks of old magazines to self-help and travel guides, will be available for as little as B20 per item. The most popular titles tend to sell quickly, so arrive early to stock up while supplies last—and don’t forget to bring a backpack or reusable bag. There will also be a bake sale in the café, onsite sign-up for library membership, and activities for kids. For the latest information, visit neilsonhayslibrary.com.
Noise Market On November 21 and 22, wildly popular indie and craft fair Noise Market returns to Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd, Tha Tien). The fifth edition of the market promises all the fixings for which it is famed: many dozens of music shops, arts and craft vendors, and food stalls, as well as live entertainment. Noise Market 5, however, has added a new wrinkle to the recipe, as the new Bangkok Underground Cinema will screen selections of short films submitted by student, independent, and DIY filmmakers. Keep up with current information at facebook.com/noisemarket. The Ploenchit Fair is back on November 28, once again filling the fields at Bangkok Patana School (Soi La Salle, Sukhumvit 105) starting at 10am. First held at the British Embassy in 1957, this annual get-together, put together by the British Community in Thailand Foundation for the Needy (BCTFN), has held true to its initial mission, but expanded in scope and style over half a century. Designed to resemble a traditional British fairground, the fair features international cuisine, a dizzying array of rides and games, live music, raffles, and unbeatable bargains. On the shopping front, expect booths from Tesco, Boots, and local vendors, as well as special Christmas sections. For food and drinks, there will be draft beer from The Londoner, Pimms and champagne, and tons of food from local restaurants. All proceeds go to Thai charities. Entry is B150 for adults and B50 for children. For more details, visit bctfn.org and ploenchitfair.org bangkok101.com
Thailand's Most Popular Theme Park! More than just a zoo ... Safari World offers unique animal-themed experience from entertaining performances to intimate encounters with the world's most lovable and precious ‘wild, aquatic and aerial’ species. Don't miss these 5 ‘All-Time Favorite’ attractions :
Hand-Feed over 250 Giraffes - Largest Herd in the World!
Thailand’s ‘one-and-only’ witty Bottlenose Dolphin Show
‘Up-Close-And-Personal’ with over 400 Sun Conures @ Mini World
Thrill & Spills @ Amazon ‘River Safari’ raft ride
‘Face-to-Face’ with the largest creatures of the Arctic wild!
Only 20 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport! Tel.02-518-1000 www.safariworld.com
www.facebook.com/safariworld.bangkok
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metro beat
THEATRE & PRODUCTION
Peel the Limelight launches its 2015-16 season with The True History of the Tragic Life and Triumphant Death of Julia Pastrana, the Ugliest Woman in the World, which takes place as part of the Bangkok Theatre Festival from November 3-29. The play tells the story of a poor Mexican woman, born with a disfiguring genetic condition and sold as child to be exhibited in freak shows around the world. The shows, all in English, will be performed at Spark Drama Studios (Jasmine City Building, Sukhumvit 23). Check facebook.com/ peelthelimelight for up-to-date information.
13th World Film Festival of Bangkok
Unfolding Kafka From November 12-December 3, the Unfolding Kafka Festival—a cooperative effort between the GoetheInstitut, the Japan Foundation, World Performances @ Drama Chula, and 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre—interprets the work of the great German writer through performance art. The Rose Hotel (118 Surawong Rd) plays host to “The Silence of Insects” by Yoko Semaya from November 12-17, including an adaption by 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre from November 14-16; tickets are B400 for general admission and B250 for students. Inspired by The Metamorphosis, this performance installation blends origami, dance, and visual art, looking at the relationship between space and the body, choreography and dance, sound and visuals, and interaction and participation. On November 19 at 7.30pm, Isabelle Schad and Laurent Goldring perform “Der Bau” at the Sodsai Pantoomkomol Center for Dramatic Arts (Chulalongkorn University), examining space as an extension of the body through movement; tickets are B600 for general admission, B400 for professional artists and those under 27, and B300 for students. Finally, Laurent Goldring, Marika Rizzi, and Jitti Chompee unite for “Cesser D’etre,” or “Stop Being,” a performance installation on December 2 and 3 at 7pm at the KBank Siam-Pic-Ganesha Center of Performing Arts (Fl. 7, Siam Square One); tickets are B400 for general admission and B250 for students. Throughout the festival, local audiences, students, and artists are invited to participate in workshops, lectures, and discussions of Kafka’s surreal works. For more information, visit unfoldingkafkafestival.com or call 08 1814 3304. 12 | NOVEMBER 2015
Since 2002, the Bangkok Theatre Festival has provided a venue for theatre fans to come together, exchange ideas, and discover new plays and performers. This year, the festival takes place between November 3-15, with main events held at the BACC and others at small theatres along the BTS lines, including Democrazy Studio and Crescent Moon Space. Activities include performances, workshops, and post-play discussions. To see the full line-up of performances, as well as information about ticket prices, reservations, and the festival itself, visit bangkoktheatrefestival.com (mostly in Thai).
Ice Age Live! A Mammoth Adventure One of Disney’s most recent hits comes to Bangkok from November 12-15 at Muang Thong Thani (99 Popular Rd). Ice Age Live! A Mammoth Adventure brings Sid, Manny, Diego, and all their prehistoric pals to the icy stage for fun-filled performances heightened by dramatic aerials, acrobatics, and music. Only one performance is in English while the rest are in Thai. Shows start at 11am, 3pm, and 7pm each day except for November 12 (only 7pm). Tickets range from B600 to B2500. For more information about tickets and showtimes, visit thaiticketmajor.com. bangkok101.com
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my bangkok
Montonn “JAY” JIRA
Teen idol-turned-producer, entrepreneur, and Wonderfruit cocreator Montonn “Jay” Jira is a man of many talents. Here he talks about his past, present, and future with Bangkok 101.
You’ve had a successful career in music, touring with artists like Justin Timberlake and Nelly Furtado and performing at Live Earth. What got you started in the stage side of the industry? I’ve always thought of performance and production as different sides of the same coin. Learning to play an instrument early allowed for that side of music to take precedence. I only started recording and producing after I had been in a few bands and wanted to record myself playing instruments and writing songs on my own. So from that angle, I started on the “stage” side quite a while before I got into the “studio” side of things. A natural progression was to get out and learn on the job. These opportunities came up for me to tour with some of the biggest acts in the world and play at the largest viewed concert of all time and I happily took it. You have a diverse background— producer, musician, model, actor, organizer. Do you have one role that you enjoy most? Making music is probably what I enjoy the most, whether it’s doing it for myself or working with talented artists from all parts of the world. Everything else serves as breaks from the studio to allow for ideas to simmer. With any creative endeavour, you need idle time to develop ideas. My other projects allow for my “downtime” to still be focused on being creative. How has your upbringing, having lived and travelled all over the world, shaped who you are today? 14 | NOV EM BER 2015
It allows for a much wider perspective in general. The same goes for knowing your history. Being able to experience the same type of happenings in different parts of the world [lets you] compare and contrast what you view as being relevant or important to you. I feel lucky to have been able to work and travel and be offered opportunities that seem unreal. It also means I will need to continue to search for those opportunities to keep up with what I find satisfying. Where did the idea for Wonderfuit come from, and how did it develop? [It] came about when I was working on a campaign called Earthworks with my partner Pranitan. We wanted to launch a new “movement” with a small event, but were faced with roadblocks in terms of funding and execution. In 2014, Pranitan suggested we form our own company (Scratch First Co.) so that we could source funding and put together a launch event. The idea grew from a small event in a park to one of the most talked about festivals in Asia. We threw ourselves into it not really knowing what we were getting ourselves into. I’ve been involved in many events, but nothing comes close to scratching the surface of what Wonderfruit provides in terms of content, experience, and messaging. What differentiates Wonderfruit from other music festivals? Technically Wonderfruit isn’t a music festival. We have a very highly curated and expressive musical lineup bringing some of the most interesting acts regionally, internationally, and locally to our stages, but we’re a celebration of the arts. Our weight in propelling
our other pillars—Organic Farming and Feasts, Performances, Talks and Debates, Art Installations, and Workshops and Natural Adventures— plays an equal role to the music. In Thailand where people don’t know of such festivals, we’re still categorized as a “music festival,” but underneath the lineup we’re much more than that. Will there be anything new added to it this year? We have a few things up our sleeves. Some new structures, some expanded zones, improvements on a lot of the facilities, land development and shade construction, re-creation of stages and bar areas, and many new activities and workshops. The Living Stage is a work in progress and will continue to develop over time. We will be working with Joel, who had designed the buffaloes beside the Soi Stage last year. What do you do to unwind when you’re in the city? I unwind when I’m at home, in the studio, or on the yoga mat. What are you listening to at the moment? All sorts. Basecamp, HWLS, Martyn, Valentin Stip, Chrome Sparks, Perc, Truss, Paula Temple, Ben Khan. Are you working on any other projects? Aside from the releases from my project Montonn & Hanna, I’m also working on a crowdfunding platform. Asiola.com is going to be an artist-tofan platform that provides exclusive, highly curated experiences for super fans to interact with their favourite artists. Something new for the e-commerce world out here! bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Galleria Milano By John Krich
I
f only Siam Paragon or the EmQuartier could look like this. The famed Galleria at the heart of Milan, Italy, is a glassed-in arcade from the apex of European grandeur. So maybe it makes sense that this original shopping mall, completed in 1877, should serve as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer our city of malls. Never mind that this loving replication is only made up of seven tables wedged into the first-floor corner of the modest Mille Malle complex in the heart of Sukhumvit’s disparate dining district. What animates Galleria Milano is the scale of ambition put forth by owner Antonio Marelli, a native Milanese who came to Bangkok 15 years ago to sell furniture, and veteran chef Armando Bonadonna, a proud Venetian who has graced kitchens throughout Asia. “I opened this place because most Italian restaurants here are more like a fashion trend, all doing the same dishes, the carbonara with cream, that aren’t genuine at all,” says signore Marelli. No one would say that about his delicate swirls of spaghetti sitting in a purée of fava beans or toughly al dente paccheri—thick pasta rolls—carefully topped with a crumble of Italian sausage, warmed cherry tomatoes, and the delightful surprise of smoked ricotta slices. The menu isn’t too expansive, and, fortunately, neither are the prices, which range from B280 for primi to B780 for the rack of lamb. The latter is crusted with Sichuan peppers, a sign of the Asian influences picked up by the playful chef. But these are only subtle hints, and there’s none of the usual catering to uninformed Asian tastes here. The carpaccio of thinly-sliced raw octopus was incredibly fresh, and without cloying vinegar. Of course, the Galleria offers ossobuco (veal shank) accompanied by the classic Risotto alla Milanese, flavoured with saffron, and such Italian staples as porchetta, a pork roasted in fennel. (Being close to the Po Valley, Italy’s rice-growing region, Milan has long specialized in all sorts of risotti.) Bonadonna’s loaded fish stew, however, is not Sicilian, but rather Livornese, and he offers such whimsical variations as gnochetti filled with beet root and topped with a sauce of Parmigiano and poppy seeds. Desserts are also in good hands here, as everything gets a new touch or presentation to refresh tired traditions. Cassata, tartufo, panna cotta—all the usual suspects are here, but with new twists. Per request, the chef can layer mounds of white chocolate mousse in thin pastry leaves. You can order a pizza, but that seems like a waste when Chef Bonadonna is on hand, prepping local scallops wrapped in special Italian lard and a truffle sauce. Having once worked at Venice’s legendary Danieli Hotel, and having left La Serenissima in 1982, he claims not to miss his homeland at all. Yet his loyalty comes through in every dish. An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, is a refreshing change. It doesn’t even seem to matter that the bevy of uniformed serving girls from Isaan can hardly pronounce tagliolini. Or that this Galleria isn’t large enough to be lined with fashionable evening strollers. Expect the unexpected, but with a warm welcome—that is, so long as you don’t demand cream in your carbonara.
GALLERIA MILANO Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 | 0 2663 6715 millemalle.com | daily 6pm-midnight; Mon-Fri 3pm-5pm
16 | NOV EM BER 2015
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best of bkk
Urban elegance at Hemingway’s, a perfect al fresco setting for a date night
Love is in the Air Top Spots to Enjoy an Alfresco Date Night in the Cool November Weather
B
angkok knows only bliss or burden. Weather patterns are binary—rainy or clear, humid or dry, hot or hotter. Where autumn leaves mark changing seasons in other parts of the world, here the shift is intuitive, something sensed in the soul rather than seen in the shrubs. So when the rainfall has petered out and the torrid temperatures have settled, signalling the start of an all-too-brief winter, couples in the city emerge from their shelters and gambol outside as if by reflex. After a seemingly endless string of months having to tote umbrellas in case of sudden storms, the great outdoors has become a playground once again, and romance has filled the air. Dates on the town benefit from a little more variety in November and December. Here are 18 | NOVEMBER 2015
some of the top ways to enjoy an alfresco couple’s night out in a suddenly re-vitalized Bangkok. Movie Magic While Bangkok lacks the classic American drive-in theatre, and its outdoor screenings don’t have the same diversity of experience as they do in London, where couples can catch movies on rooftops or floating barges—even in hot tubs—a few local groups set the mood for love both onand off-screen. The Bangkok Open-Air Cinema Club organizes monthly film screenings at the rooftop garden at The Hive on Sukhumvit 49. While the films are not always tailorbangkok101.com
best of bkk
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Relaxed vibes at Jham-Jun’s rooftop
Stately romance at the Gardens of Dinsor Palace
Cinema under the stars
made for snuggling—in the past, they’ve included “The Man with the Golden Gun” and “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” on one hand, and “Four Weddings and a Funeral” and “Pretty Woman” on the other—the atmosphere is cosy and intimate. So couples can tune out the noise below and get lost in the drama unfolding on screen. At the end of the year, the Goethe Institut typically offers open-air cinema in its leafy garden off Sathorn Soi 1. With the films being German, they tend to transport viewers to a world beyond Bangkok. The Jam Factory has got in on the action in recent years, too, although its schedule of events is ever-changing, so it’s no guarantee there will be a film festival this winter. Still, it’s worth swinging by the gallery for a look at the latest art and a stroll through the sweet-smelling garden.
of casual (and serious) drinkers to its tasting room, which is tastefully decorated in light wood, giving it a feel not unlike a bar in Scandinavia. Ignore the buzz inside, however, and head straight for the garden for a laid-back night of romance in quasi-solitude. In the centre of town, Craft on Sukhumvit 23 has balanced the soi’s notorious reputation with its unflappable, sophisticated vibe. No, it isn’t always quiet here. And, yes, the outdoor beer bar is but a hundred metres from the seedier entertainment of Soi Cowboy. Nevertheless, on a cool winter night, it’s a perfect spot to enjoy a pint of flavourful craft beer—over 40 on tap—over intimate conversation at a high-top table for two. At Craft, lovers can actually lock in on one another’s eyes and drum up privacy on their own terms. Freedom, after all, is the essence of modern romance.
Beer is the New Champagne What do we picture when we conjure up a date over drinks? Cocktails? Wine? Champagne flutes clinking from a glass tower hanging above the city? Probably not beer— but that would be a mistake. Bangkok has embraced Western craft beer culture with open arms, including its relaxed garden-patio settings and freedom of choice. Mikkeller Bangkok occupies a sedate patch of land in an even more sedate back alley in Ekamai. As a result, it can feel as off-thegrid as any place in the city. Yet it draws a steady stream bangkok101.com
Riverside Dining and Drinks Flowing water has a captivating effect. While by day the Chao Phraya is hardly the most beautiful body of water on the planet, by dusk its ripples become velveteen, its roar a sweet whisper, and city lights bounce off its surface like flickering fireflies. Few places in Bangkok stoke passion like the river. In the Old Town, low-rise rooftop bar Jham-Jun offers the sounds, sights, and faint smells of the water within a quiet faux garden near Phra Sumen Fort. The experience NOV EMBER 2015 | 19
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Two glasses of wine: the only thing this photo of Mango Tree on the River is missing embodies present-day Bangkok to the core: the food is Thai, the live music is Popsanova Thai, and the crowd is largely local Thai. What’s more, the relaxed and subtle background noise provide that peculiar sensation of feeling far removed from the madness while only being a few floors above it. The same goes for nearby Babble & Rum at Riva Surya, another outdoor venue on top of a stunning boutique hotel. The beauty of the riverside is that romance can take many forms—Italian, Thai, Chinese, French. At Mango Tree on the River at the ersatz heritage structure Yod Phi Man, or Sala Rim Naam Terrace at the stately Mandarin Oriental, fine Thai food lends a local lilt to romantic dinners. The same goes for Supatra River House, where diners can sit inside a former aristocrat’s home or on its outdoor patio. The Deck by Arun Residence offers menu samples from far-off destinations, not to mention breath-taking views of Wat Arun. Slightly further afield, the long-standing Sirocco at Lebua stirs the spirit of the Mediterranean into two-person dinners of the clothnapkined and dress-coded breed. Sukhumvit Gardens In the city centre, buildings rise like redwoods, a colossal canopy of bricks and mortar. Fortunately, romance isn’t relegated to industrial structures. Fresh air and greenery give life to numerous restaurants and bars. Gardens 20 | NOVEMBER 2015
grow on roofs, behind buildings, and, on occasion, inside venues. At Hemingway’s in Asoke, plants and trees adorn the interior and exterior of a heritage house built from golden teakwood, a location once hidden from plain sight, mere steps from the BTS. Grab a table on the terrace, enjoy some wine and tapas, and relive the glory days of 20thcentury literature. In Ekamai, The Gardens of Dinsor Palace teem with tropical plants and wildlife (a family of tame geese resides in the garden). Also occupying an old mansion, the restaurant adds a pinch of elegance to already intimate dinners. From there, it’s an easy walk to Octave, a sky bar on top of the Bangkok Marriott Hotel, where natural wood and blue lights meet fresh blowing breeze and expansive views. Fake grass may not match the real thing, but sometimes it’s good enough. At Kukkuuk Yakiniku above DND in Thong Lo, the outdoor balcony, complete with a forest green carpet, makes for an easy-going place to kick off an electric night (downstairs DND is a premier EDM club, and it’s nearby the neighbourhood’s other élite nightlife venues). If a wild night sounds off-putting, shuffle over to The Garret, a gastropub serving American food with an outdoor patio, as well as a cosy indoor dining room with rows of windows looking out over Ekamai. For a finishing touch, visit The Speakeasy at Hotel Muse, where stiff drinks, citywide views, and the open air send couple’s nights out in style. bangkok101.com
Paint the town red? The temple fair by the Golden Mount blends revelry with religious rites 22 | NOVEMBER 2015
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The Tale of the
Temple Fair Thailand’s Timeless Celebrations tie together Religion and Recreation BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKO AND PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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hai people are intrinsically tethered to the temple. At every stage of life, from naming newborns to sharpening academic skills to holding final funeral rites, the temple plays a central role. Beyond shaping culture, the gilded, spired buildings and expansive grounds also provide venues for important events. They’re true community centres, and they have been for centuries— temples were the cinema before the cinema existed, the Siam Paragon of a previous era. Nowadays, temples across Thailand recapture their role as the lifeblood of local communities during elaborate festivals known simply as temple fairs.
Paintings on temple walls depict moments of play and celebration, scenes that represent temple fairs. They speak of a time when the temple was the centre of daily life—a meeting place for community elders, a room for prayer, a place to celebrate special occasions, and, in earlier days, the only location where men and women could mingle. Now, temple fairs are mostly organized for annual celebrations, when people of all ages can cut loose in one moment and worship sacred Buddha images in another. In Bangkok—and, in all actuality, in Thailand—one of the most remarkable temple fairs takes place at Wat
Prayer is but one foundation of the temple fair
Aisles and aisles of snacks
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Step right up and test your luck to win a Doraemon! Saket each year. The fair dates back to the reign of King Rama V, when the striking Golden Mount was built and renovations that had begun during the rule of King Rama I were finally finished. Chulalongkorn, as Rama V is most often known, called for a celebration late in the year, when his people could enjoy the crisp early winter weather. The ritual burst and bloomed from that first event. Today, the fair at Wat Saket, always held during the week of Loy Krathong, is perhaps the grandest in the country. Many thousands of people flock to the relatively small grounds to soak up the festivities.
“PRETTY YOUNG LADIES SIT ABOVE TANKS OF TEPID WATER. PAYING CUSTOMERS THROW BALLS AT TARGETS. HIT HARD ENOUGH...THE PERCH UPON WHICH THE DRIPPING BEAUTY SITS IS RELEASED AND SHE FALLS INTO THE TANK. ONCE THE WATER IS CLEARED FROM HER NOSE, SHE CLIMBS BACK UP AND THE PROCESS BEGINS AGAIN. ” 24 | NOVEMBER 2015
Not far from Wat Saket, another remarkable fair with roots in the history books takes place in Dusit. At the Marble Temple, or Wat Benchamabophit, activities were organized and led by noblemen, and so the entertainment vastly differed from other temple fairs around the country. Villagers were allowed to visit and experience court traditions, but they couldn’t get involved—they were only witnesses. The segregation ended when a festival known as Tan Kuay Salak was started. Held annually at the Marble Temple, the fair was organized to unite the northern Thai community living in the capital. While today Tan Kuay Salak remains a northern Thai gathering, anyone can (and does) attend. With the rise of technology, not to mention the wealth of leisure activities now available, the lustre of the temple fair should have faded long ago. Yet it hasn’t. These sprawling community shindigs remain as popular as ever. Wander into any temple fair and the reason for their endurance becomes clear—there’s just so much to do, and that goes for kids, teens, and adults. Activities start with serene good deeds. The elderly, in particular, like making merit, hoping to bring luck and prosperity into their lives. At Wat Saket, three days before the fair, Buddhists are invited join a huge parade around the neighbourhood, carrying a big red cloth that’s toted to the top of the Golden Mount and wrapped around the chedi, signalling that the fair is about to start. More often than not, the parade is made up of the older generations, those who tend to believe more firmly in the power of tradition. bangkok101.com
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The smell of grilled meats fills the air
No fair would be complete without random knicknacks
Thais young and old flock to the temple fair
For the young and wild, the temple fair is anything but boring. There are local folk bands, unending corridors of food stalls, haunted houses, acrobats—you name it. The temple is transformed into an open-air arena, complete with a stage and dance floor. Crowds shimmy and sing along to luuk thung artists performing on stage. Some might attach banknotes together that they put around the artists’ necks as a reward. It’s not all luuk thung, either. There’s likay (Thai opera), mor lam, lam tad (a kind of adlibbed singing dialogue between a man and a woman— like a rap battle, but much less contemporary and far more rural Thai), and singing contests at night. Some rare shows are found exclusively at temple fairs. Just about all of them offer a target shooting game, which is, of course, very popular. Plastic guns take aim at a fixed target —balloons, cans, cardboard—and good shots are rewarded with prizes. Darts are popular, as well. The more targets you hit, the bigger the prize, spanning from instant noodles to kitchen utensils to huge teddy bears. No fair is complete without sao noi tok nam. Pretty young ladies sit above tanks of tepid water. Paying customers throw balls at targets. Hit hard enough, the target triggers a Rube Goldberg device. The perch upon which the dripping beauty sits is released and she falls into the tank. Once the water is cleared from her nose, she climbs back up and the process begins again. Children love picking up guppies from kiddie pools using paper shovels, trying to snatch as many as they can before the paper dissolves in the water. All ages relish lasting memories from the bright, colourful Ferris wheel and merry-go-round.
Pandering to the Thai belief in ghosts, temple fairs often feature haunted houses, the creepy scenes revealed for the low price of B20. A couple of staff wearing traditional Thai costumes and the kind of makeup that would make Lady Gaga blush chase customers into a dark tent. The effect is often amusing rather than frightening, but still the laugh is worth the price of a plate of cheap pad thai. Perhaps more skin-crawling than scary, local-style Ripley’s Believe it or Not zones display bizarre fake creatures, including Siamese twins, mermaids, and deformed human figures. Apart from the aforementioned entertainment, food amounts to the temple fair’s biggest draw. Every inch of the grounds are packed with stalls selling noodles, roasted red pork, oyster omelettes, and more. Ubiquitous meatballs and other common takeaway items allow for casual grazing from the first step inside the temple to the last. People with a sweet tooth will find a sugary heaven here, too. Down-to-earth desserts include kanom bueng (the Thai taco stuffed with marshmallow and foy thong), jampada tod (breadfruit seeds wrapped in fried coconut flour), cotton candy, steamed sweet sticky rice stuffed in a bamboo tube, and kanom jaak (steamed coconut paste wrapped in palm leaves). As essential as religion is to Thai culture, nostalgia plays a big part, too. Temple fairs harken back to the good old days—the authentic way of life—evoking the rites and routines that have been passed down through generations. Odds are good that they will still matter to Thai society long into the future.
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Photo Credit: Maitree Siriboon
THE SPIRIT OF ISAAN IS OFTEN MISUNDERSTOOD
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insight
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON ISAAN
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hile Isaan, the Northeast, is inhabited by almost two-thirds of the country’s population, it is the poorest and perhaps most misunderstood region in Thailand. People from Isaan have formed a massive Thai diaspora, as many have migrated to urban areas, abandoning farms and fields for factories and other professions, and bringing along their much-loved rustic, spicy cuisine and vibrant cultures. But culture can be the cause of confusion in contemporary Thailand, where Isaan can carry a negative connotation. Yet there’s more to “Turning right at Saraburi” than one thinks. For decades, Isaan has been widely viewed as a land of country bumpkins, of unsophisticated, poorly-educated people, undeveloped rural areas, droughts, and famine. In reality, Isaan was the cradle of civilization. Archaeological sites at Baan Chiang in Udon Thani and Pha Dtaem in Ubon Ratchathani are evidence of prehistoric human settlements, and the kingdoms of Funan, Chenla, Angkor, and Isaanpura prospered here long before Siam was born. So why are urban Thais, likely descendants of these great civilisations, condescending towards their rural counterparts? Historically, Isaan wasn’t part of Siam. For centuries, the Siamese called it “Laos” and its people “Laotians,” which, in turn, made Thais feel superior. The word “Isaan,” originally from Pali and Sanskrit, is another name for Shiva, protector of the northeastern direction in Hinduism. It was coined when the sub-regions were combined during King Rama V’s reign. But its people represent many ethnicities, mixing sub-groups of Tais, Laotians, Mons, Khmers, and Vietnamese, as well as minorities such as the Suai or Kui, who are elephant mahouts in Surin and Srisaket. These cultures have richly influenced the whole of the land. With its wide-ranging landscapes from the banks of the Mun, Chi, and Mekong, to the peaks of Phu Ghradueng, Phu Paan, and Phu Luang, Isaan’s massive plateau is abundant in resources. It is greener than stereotypes suggest. Its national parks are spectacular, especially in the dry season, when fog looms and wildflowers bloom. Glorious temples with colourful folksy paintings, shiny glass mosaics, and stunning stupas adorn the towns and countryside. Ruins of Khmer temple complexes show the extent of the Angkor empire. Vernacular art and crafts confirm a legacy of living culture. For textile lovers, this is paradise. My favourite silks are from Isaan, especially bangkok101.com
Lower provinces such as Surin. Indigo-dyed cotton from Sakon Nakorn comes in the most beautiful blue and is so supple that it’s considered “Thai pashminas.” Phrae Wah, woven by the Phu Thai, is dubbed “the Queen of Thai silk.” As for the food, who doesn’t like barbequed chicken, larb, and sticky rice? Seemingly simplistic, the cuisine’s balance of flavours and use of spices and herbs never fail to please the palate. “Saeb Ee-lhee,” meaning very delicious in the local tongue, catches on every Thai’s lips. Still, some dishes, such as pla raa and pla jaew (fermented fish), soup nhor mai (salad of pickled bamboo shoots), and ant larvae salad, are only for acquired tastes. Interestingly, in som dtum, the main ingredient, papaya, comes from Central America, making it but one of many hybridized Thai foods. The characteristics of Isaan looks aren’t deemed attractive by current Thai aesthetic tastes. Most people from Isaan tend to have darker complexions, flatter nose bridges, and angular facial structures as opposed to the fairer skin and oval-shaped faces of Northern Thais or Chinese descendants. But their pointy cheek bones and honey-hued complexions are truly sensual and exotic. The square chin lines derive from Khmer lineage, as seen in Apsaras on Angkor Wat’s walls. For proof of Isaan beauty in modern times, look to Rojjana Phetkanha, a supermodel from Ubon who became the face of a Chanel perfume in the 90s. Sounds of Isaan dialects can be compared to the tunes of local instruments. I was once told that the higher pitch of the Upper Isaan tones mimics the scales of the khaen, a kind of tall and compacted pipe, whereas the deeper and harsher airs of the Lower Isaan voices play well with the ponglaang, a vertical wooden xylophone from Kalasin. On radio stations across Thailand, Isaan folk music, such as mohr lum, plays with regularity, its popularity as wide-reaching as the dry season sunshine. Most Thais misjudge Isaan people as lazy, unskilled, and stupid, akin to buffaloes. However, they are very hard-working, brave, and kind-hearted. In 1979, Kampoon Boonthawee from Yasothorn won the first S.E.A. WRITE Award for Thailand with his autobiographical novel, “Loog Isaan” (A Child of the Northeast). It was subsequently made into an award-winning film. On its first page, he wrote the most touching dedication I’ve ever read: “For my mother who is illiterate.” Tears ran down my face as I finished the phrase. And that’s the pride of Isaan. NOVEMBER 2015 | 29
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
FIVE-STAR SACRED INK
THE SIAM DEDICATES SPACE TO THE 2,000-YEAR-OLD MAGIC THAI TATTOO TRADITION.
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first visited The Siam in October 2011, when Krissada Sukosol Clapp and his wife Melanie gave me a tour of the hotel while it was still very much under construction. Even then it was clear from the rising edifice that in spite of the relatively small number of guest suites and villas that it was to be a grand undertaking. Nine months later, with The Siam still in the final phase of construction, the ambitious project, directed by Bensley Design Studios, was nothing short of stunning, with abundant use of black-painted steel, large glass panels, and white walls to allow plenty of natural light in and to provide a simple black-and-white background for over a thousand antiques from Krissada’s personal collection. When The Siam finally opened in 2012, after three years of construction, a proud but weary Krissada told me, “It turns out that building a hotel is like building a little town.” One corner of the compact but sumptuous fitness centre is given to a muay thai training ring, surrounded
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by old photos of Thai fighters from nearly a century ago. The Siam’s muay thai training package, which includes boxing instruction along with a special diet and massage programme, has proved to be a solid success. And so now the town that is The Siam has integrated another ancient Thai tradition with the recent opening of a specially consecrated space devoted to the inking of sacred tattoos. Known as sak yan in Thai (and popularly spelt “sak yant” even though the “t” is always silent), the magicoreligious designs in black ink can be traced back to their use among animistic Tai tribes in southwestern China and northwestern Vietnam two millennia ago. Along the way the intricate patterns, which run the gamut from purely geometric sigils to vivid animal or deity figures, picked up Brahmanist and Buddhist content as well. Less than six months old, The Siam’s sak yant programme has been personally guided by its general manager, Jason Friedman, who received his first sacred bangkok101.com
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ink designs from Pathum Thani’s needle master Ajahn Noo Ganpai, famed for having tattooed Hollywood star Angelina Jolie in 2003 and 2004. Friedman witnessed an increasing number of guests who wanted these sacred tattoos but were unsure of where to get them. After organizing sak yant expeditions for several guests (most notably Cara Delevingne and Michelle Rodriguez), he began looking for a more direct way to connect disciple and master. About a year ago, The Siam’s restaurant manager, Nitisak Jirakitanan, took Friedman to Wat Bang Phra, a temple in Nakhon Chaisi with a strong sak yant lineage propagated by the late abbot Luang Pho Poen, the most famous and influential sak yant master of the 20th century. Poen ordained at Wat Bang Phra at the age of 25 and studied with abbot Luang Pu Him Inthasoto, an accomplished sak yant master. In 1953, feeling he needed further withdrawal, renunciation, and solitary meditation, Luang Pho Poen went on foot to a remote area of Kanchanaburi Province on the Myanmar-Thailand border. At the time, villagers in the area were beleaguered by wild tigers that had mauled or killed several locals. After Luang Pho Poen arrived in their midst and learned of the villagers’ predicament, he offered mantras and sak yant to protect them. From that point forward, no one who received the monk’s protection was ever attacked by a tiger or other wild animal, earning Luang Pho Poen a powerful reputation as a master of incantations and tattoos. In Nakhon Chaisi, Jirakitanan introduced to Friedman Ajahn Boo, a former novice monk at Wat Bang Phra who worked out of a small samnak nearby. Ajahn Boo learned the sacred tattoo arts from one of Luang Pho Poen’s chief disciples, Ajahn Somchai, with whom he has travelled bangkok101.com
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to Hong Kong and Singapore to serve the demanding Chinese market. Friedman ended up receiving sak yant from Ajahn Boo, and was so impressed with the spiritual results that he decided to create a studio for the master at The Siam. Realizing the match between luxury hotel and sak yant might appear unorthodox, even exploitative, The Siam insisted on preserving every aspect of the tradition, including the correct placement of colorful khon masks (believed to protect the space from malevolent spirits), Buddha figures, and other sacred images. “We consulted with the abbot at Wat Bang Phra to make sure everything was done in the proper way,” says Friedman. “We took no shortcuts and made no compromises.” Ajahn Boo inks all tattoos by hand using traditional khem sak (tattoo styluses) rather than machines. To address concerns about hygiene, he screws disposable needle tips onto the traditional needle shaft. Sterile ink is consecrated with extensive mantras and other ceremonial practices. Other than the fact that the studio is air-conditioned (and exceptionally clean), it also mirrors the calm, powerful ambience of any traditional samnak sak yant. Once tattoos are applied, clients may elect to have them blessed at Wat Bang Phra itself. Fees for sak yant from Ajahn Boo at The Siam run from B30000++ for a smaller design to B60000++ for a larger one. The cost includes tattooing supplies with new needles, offerings for the master, and simultaneous translation between Ajahn Boo and the client. For inquiries, call 0 2206 6999 or email jason@thesiamhotel.com.
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Bizarre
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A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
THE DISQUIETING AMERICAN
Once a spook, then a silk trader and now an enigma, Jim Thompson is the most infamous farang in the history of the kingdom. In this excerpt from the new book Americans in Thailand (Editions Didier Millet, 2014, Jim Algie disentangles some of the colorfully embroidered yarns and misunderstandings about him. Edited by Nicholas Grossman, the book also features contributions by Nick, Denis Gray, Wesley Hsu, Jeff Hodson, and Robert Horn.
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hompson’s disappearance in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in 1967 has been the springboard for much conjecture with little (if any) hard evidence to back it up. One theory is that he went for a hike in the hills and got eaten by a tiger or fell into an animal trap, his death hushed up by an embarrassed Malaysian government or an aboriginal tribe. Another rumor is that, tiring of fame and life, he staged his own disappearance to live out his final years in peaceful anonymity (many tabloids have said the same of Elvis Presley and Jim Morrison.) One of the more hotly contested debates is whether his disappearance was related to his days of espionage in the OSS, and rumors that he continued spying for the American embassy in Thailand. Warren discounts the latter claim in his biography. It is likely, he notes, that Thompson did some spy work up until the coup of 1949, when he discovered that three 32 | NOV EM BER 2015
of his close friends—pro-Pridi politicians—were slain by the police. Another Laotian, Tao Oum, who had been his right-hand man and was also a resistance fighter, feared for his life and opted to return to his homeland instead. During another research trip to the northeast at this time, Thompson lost yet another friend who was abducted by the police and later executed. The American’s letters home after these losses revealed his personal grief and political cynicism. After that he rarely moved in those circles again, claims Warren. Nor did he show much interest in debating such matters. Considering his busy schedule of working and socializing, when he was rarely alone, how could he find the time for espionage? To the contrary, others believe that Thompson’s repulsion for the American-backed strongmen like the military dictator Phibul Songkram and the police director bangkok101.com
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general Phao Sriyanond, and his belief in supporting nationalist forces, inspired him to work against—or at least apart from—his former cronies. Given his former position in the OSS and his knowledge of the region, Thompson’s contact network of rebel fighters and underground movements was extensive. Kurlantzick details them in The Ideal Man, published in 2011. He summarizes a US government investigation from 1950 into Thompson and other one-time agents from the OSS suspected of smuggling arms, which concludes that he had “close and mutually beneficial relationships with the Viet Minh, Khmer Issara, and Lao Isarra.” The report also stated that Thompson “abetted the release and concealment of parachute-delivered American weapons (a stockpile for his future trafficking) instead of gathering them for Allied forces’ use [at the end of World War II], or to hand over to the Thai government.” In spite of these accusations, Washington did not cut him loose, mostly because he was too valuable as a source of intelligence, Kurlantzick surmises. But the biography also explains that by the middle of the 1950s the CIA had issued a stern directive that Thompson was no longer to be trusted or consulted. US ambassadors in Bangkok and Laos had also taken him aside to say that his meetings with Vietnamese nationalists had to stop. Once again, whether Thompson was a brilliant spy adept at covering his tracks, or simply not guilty of colluding with the enemy, when the FBI launched an extensive investigation into Thompson in 1953, going over his government files with intense scrutiny, conducting undercover interviews with his old friends in the US and business associates in Bangkok, they concluded that he was not guilty of, in the parlance of the day, “un-American activities.” During that momentous trip to Malaysia in 1967, and on the last day he was seen alive, Thompson seemed on edge and, uncharacteristically, in bad humor, his travelling companion and old friend Connie Mangskau said. Her reminiscences bred hearsay that he was the victim of foul play. Whether it was business rivals, the disgruntled husband of a married woman he had been involved with, bangkok101.com
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the settling of a political debt or a kidnapping gone wrong, these whispers remain mere rumors. The fact that this heavy smoker left his cigarettes and lighter behind, as well as the medicine he used to remedy his agonizing gallstone attacks, suggested that he did not leave the premises of the Moonlight Cottage willingly. Had he been attacked and killed by a tiger or leopard would there not have been traces of blood or scraps of clothing left behind? Whatever the cause or nature of his disappearance, and in spite of all the searchers and psychics, the conspiracy theorists and crackpots, the biographers and journalists who have compared him to such fictional characters as Jay Gatsby and Alden Pyle (the naïve yet well-intentioned OSS agent in Graham Greene’s The Quiet American) Thompson’s disappearance is still a mystery. Less enigmatic by far is that the company he founded is a worldwide enterprise, thanks in no small part to his second in command, Charles Sheffield, who took the reins after his disappearance, and that his name will forever be synonymous with Thai silk. In fact, and as a matter of fiction, the American’s legend has taken on the epic proportions of myth, continuing to fascinate and confound as it inspires even more embellishments and revisions. In 2013, T. Hunt Locke, an American author based in Chiang Mai, published a thriller called Jim Thompson Is Alive! This is the second instalment of the story of Jim Thompson’s disappearance in the Cameron Highlands in 1967. The first ran in the October issue of Bangkok 101. To read more about Thompson and other prominent expats like him, pick up a copy of Americans in Thailand, a lavishly illustrated hardcover history book on sale at Asia Books and Kinokuniya in Bangkok for B1295.
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very thai
LUUK THUNG & MOR LAM THAI COUNTRY MUSIC DELIVERS ANCIENT SONG STYLES WITH VEGAS GLITZ
PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH
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o taxi-driving, labouring, factory-working migrants from Buriram and Roi-et, luuk thung (children of the fields) folk music—and its Isaan regional counterpoint mor lam—goes way beyond entertainment. Punctuating the pulsating vocal trills, the acerbic lyrics draw on folklore and experience. While the state has at times used folk music to disseminate propaganda, the humour of the lyrics remains one of the few tolerated ways for the powerless to take swipes at authority. “When they listen to luuk thung they feel they are experiencing their own lives through our music,” says luuk thung singer Surachai Sombatcharoen of his rural and migrant audience. “Mostly our songs are about love, melancholy and grief, but they are not sentimental. They are too realistic for that. Luuk thung is not a music for escapism.” …No singer broke hearts like the all-time great, Phumphuang Duangjan. An abused, illiterate farm girls who’d risen to be the first luuk thung singer at a hi-so function, she died aged just 31 in 1992. Her funeral was attended by 200,000 mourners, who included
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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royalty, but her spirit still draws fans seeking lucky lottery numbers to her shrine in Suphanburi, an ancient town that would be the Thai Nashville. Many stars still hail from ‘Suphan’, where the banter-like song style isaew emerged, and luuk thung gleaned some of its distinctive accent. Blessed with astonishing vocal range and articulation, Phumphuang urbanised a country art, airing grievance with goosebump-raising grace: “So lousy poor, I just have to risk my luck/Dozing on the bus, this guy starts chatting me up/Says he’ll get me a good job, now he’s feeling me up.” Though risqué lyrics are banned, [musicologist John] Clewley notes that folk songs are “one of the few public spaces where sexual pleasure can be discussed.” That includes prostitution—a staple subject of both folk genres, along with life stories of truck drivers and buffalo herders, waitresses and maids. That’s not the kind of reality breached in either T-Pop or polite company. The irony of luuk thung’s FM radio respectability is epitomised in Phumphuang’s song ‘AM Girl’, mocking city lothario tastes: “We are not compatible. You listen to FM radio!”
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
bangkok101.com
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THAILAND’S GENTLE GIANTS STILL STAND AS SYMBOLS OF THE NORTH AND NORTHEAST 36 | NOV EM BER 2015
bangkok101.com
THE NARROW ROAD TO THE
DEEP NORTH T
he season starts to change in November. Like water stopping from a shower head, the roaring rains slow to a trickle before disappearing. Gone, too, is the suffocating humidity of the early mornings and late nights as cool air grips the land. When the monsoon finally passes, dark clouds fade into memory, leaving only the great blue dome of the sky. With the forecast pleasant for the foreseeable future, all roads point north—or, for adventure-seekers, northeast. Before Chiang Mai was nicknamed “the Rose of the North,” before the British consumed the teak forests, before the region was annexed during the reign of Chulalongkorn, the North belonged to the Lanna. From Sukothai and Lamphun to Phayao and Chiang Rai, the region is rich with archaeological relics, colourful minority tribes preserving traditions, and elements of the nearly millennium-old cultures integrated into modern-day life. While no trip to the North would be complete without a proper exploration of the heritage, for many travellers the region’s appeal remains its hilly topography, cool climate, and laidback lifestyle. Today, Chiang Mai and the surrounding provinces draw millions of visitors eager to enjoy the great outdoors or simply soak up the slow life. To the east, a mass of flatland traced by the mighty Mekong makes up Isaan, the Northeast. Lacking the peaks and valleys of provinces like Mae Hong Son, Isaan’s allure is subtle. Beyond the green and gold plains awaits a world of fiery cuisine, peculiar traditions, and Khmer ruins that pre-date Angkor. While the region sees fewer visitors than elsewhere in the country, it rewards open-minded travellers with its wealth of temples, heritage sites, and what has been called the truest Thai culture. Whether voyaging north or northeast, November is a prime time to go. It marks the shoulder of high season, meaning the road will be less travelled, but the weather will still be cool and dry. And, with the right itinerary, there will be many moments to put away in the memory bank, such as witnessing the sky filling with lanterns during Yi Peng in Chiang Mai or taking in the gilded fields of blooming sunflowers in Lopburi. So pack those bags and hit the road this month with Bangkok 101.
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upcountry now
November 1, 2015 – February 28, 2016 Tha Kham Dolphin Festival Over the next few months, the Bangpakong River in Chachoengsao will become a hotspot for dolphin lovers. Bottlenose, humpback, and rare Irrawaddy dolphins play in the water, drawing crowds of camera-wielding visitors to the riverbanks. In the jungle along the river are exotic birds and mischievous monkeys, making the trip a must-do for animal lovers. Don’t miss the many seafood restaurants in the area, either where tasty dishes, including the local sea bass, are served ultra-fresh.
November 12 – 15 Phimai Festival and Boat Race The well-preserved Khmer ruins of Phimai Historical Park predate Cambodia’s world famous Angkor Wat. In fact, some scholars believe they may have served as a model for its construction. The Phimai Festival not only pays homage to the past, but also embraces the state of the present. Long-tail boat races, light and sound shows, and handicraft sales galore take place in the shadow of the sandstone ruins. The historical site is about one hour by bus from the bus station in Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima).
November 21 Chiang Mai Bike Night The Tourism Authority of Thailand and Chiang Mai Municipality have organized an exciting new way to explore the sights and sounds of Chiang Mai. On November 21, Chiang Mai Bike Night invites cyclists to casually traverse the northern capital by two wheels, taking in the city at night. There are two distances to ride—45k and 15k. The routes will pass some of Chiang Mai’s top sites, like the Three Kings Monument, Thapae Gate, Wat Phra Singh, and Wat Chedi Luang. Tickets are B500 for both distances and include souvenirs. For more information, call 09 4616 6855 or go online to facebook.com/Paipungun.
November 21 – 22 Surin Elephant Round-Up Surin’s biggest attractions take centre stage during the annual Elephant Round-up. This internationally recognized event includes a procession of over 300 elephants marching through Surin to the traditional corralling area in the south of the city. Games of elephant football and tug-of-war demonstrate the pachyderms’ strength and skills. Later, the gentle giants enjoy buffet feasts of fruits and vegetables.
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upcountry xxx escape now
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November 22 Laguna Phuket Triathlon 2015 Test the limits of your strength and endurance at the annual Laguna Phuket Triathlon. The race includes a 1.8k open-water swim, a 55k bike ride, and a challenging final 12k run through spectacular tropical scenery. The race is not for the faint of heart, as it traverses the island’s rolling hills. Nevertheless, the event attracts age groupers as well as the world’s top pro triathletes who vie for a share of the EUR 25000 prize money. For more details, including the entry fee, please visit challengelagunaphuket.com.
November 24 – 26 Yi Peng One of the most iconic images of Thailand occurs during Yi Peng, as traditional Lanna-style sky lanterns illuminate the night sky, floating gracefully into nothingness. The most elaborate celebrations can be seen in and around Chiang Mai, the ancient capital of the former Lanna kingdom. Yi Peng coincides with the Loy Krathong festival. The result sees twinkling lights wandering downriver, hanging from trees, buildings, and temples, and soaring high into the sky, giving many districts a fairytale feel.
November 27 – December 7 River Kwai Bridge Week and Kanchanaburi Red Cross Fair 2015 This annual event recalls the dark days of World War II, from the construction of the Death Railway to the building of the infamous bridge in particular. The story of the bridge’s construction is partially told through a spectacular light and sound show. The event also features a remembrance ceremony held at the Allied War Cemetery, an exhibition honouring His Majesty the King, and the annual Red Cross Fair.
November 29 Lop Buri Monkey Banquet Thousands of lean long-tailed macaques dive in to a feast of flavours deliver by the local population of Lopburi. This freefor-all, a thank-you for the tourist dollars the monkeys bring in, takes place around the spectacular Prang Sam Yot temple and resembles the Mad Hatter’s tea party. Located a few hours from Bangkok, the old city of Lopburi has many historical attractions worth a visit, including Khmer ruins at San Phra Kan and Phra Narai Ratchaniwet. Fair warning: things might get messy. Protect your cameras.
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NOVEMBER 2015 | 39
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best of chiang mai
The 101 Guide to Chiang Mai What to Know Before You Go BY JOE CUMMINGS
ORIENTATION OLD CITY The two-square-kilometre original city plan forms a near-perfect square, bounded on all sides by a moat and towering brick walls (of which only the corner bastions remain for the most part). A charming network of narrow lanes bisected by a four broader avenues lead to 33 historic Lanna temples and a legion of guesthouses, hotels, cafes, and restaurants.
THA PAE ROAD/CHIANG MAI NIGHT BAZAAR Between the Old City’s eastern gate and the banks of the Ping River, an amorphous conglomeration of streets lined with Shan-Burmese temples, hotels, guesthouses, tourist restaurants, and the famed Chiang Mai Night Bazaar spreads north and south of Tha Phae Road, until relatively recently the city’s most important tourist centre. 40 | NOVEMBER 2015
WAT KET/FAHAM ROAD Just east of Nawarat Bridge, a road running north along the Ping River changes names from Charoen Rat to Faham as it winds through what was the main centre for Westerners involved in trade and missionary work in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, historic homes and shophouses have been converted into hotels, restaurants, clubs, and galleries.
NIMMANHEMIN ROAD AND WEST Extending from the Old City’s two western gates all the way to the foot of landmark Doi Suthep, west Chiang Mai forms a grid of modern lanes and streets that encompass Chiang Mai University, two modern shopping centres, the town’s oldest forest monastery, and Nimmanhemin Road, a neighbourhood exploding with galleries, cafes, wine bars, and boutiques aimed at well-heeled Bangkok Thais on holiday. bangkok101.com
best ofxxx chiang escape mai GETTING AROUND Red songthaew—small, dilapidated pickup trucks with two benches for passengers in back—ply the streets of Chiang Mai for B20 one way. Tuk-tuks and car taxis are also available at rates of around B200 per trip. To get around conveniently, many visitors prefer to rent cars (B1000 and up) or motorbikes (B150-250) from various rental shops around town.
STAY 137 PILLARS HOUSE The historic William Bain House, a legacy of the Borneo Company built in 1887, has been renovated and re-purposed by Bain’s descendants as part of a boutique hotel named for the 137 solid teak logs supporting the building above the ground in Lanna style. Sixty villas in classic Chiang Mai postcolonial style have been added to the compound, while the original house contains dining rooms, lounges, and a library. 2 Soi 1, Na Wat Ket Rd | 0 5324 7788 snhcollection.com/137pillarshouse
ARTEL NIMMAN In the middle of the fashionable Nimmahemin neighbourhood, local artist Torlarp Larpjaroensook has transformed a former two-story student dormitory into a funky boutique hotel brimming with quirky art-centred touches. Big circular windows let in light and project a 60s-70s retro feel, while wrought-iron stair railings, chandeliers, and window grills add a hint of the US Southwest. Vintage floor tiles have been sliced, diced, and refit in fresh new ways to create a variety of colour schemes for each room. 40 Nimmanhemin Rd, Soi 13 | 08 1594 6233 facebook.com/TheArtelNimman
THE RACHAMANKHA The brainchild of architect Ongard Satrabhandhu and interior designer Rooj Changtrakul, this uniquely Chiang Mai hotel, with its central quadrangle surrounded by brick-andplaster-walled rooms fronted by full-length porticoes, is reminiscent of an ancient Lanna Buddhist monastery cloister. Authentic antiques decorating the interior hail from northern Thailand, Myanmar, bangkok101.com
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Laos, and southern China. The bar and restaurant combines a minimalist-industrial décor and boasts signed lithographs by Henry Moore and Robert Motherwell. 6 Rachamankha Rd | 0 5390 4111 | rachamankha.com
SALA LANNA CHIANG MAI Overlooking the Ping River in the historic Wat Ket neighbourhood, Sala Lanna follows the overall design concept of the Thai-owned Sala network with minimalist lines of wood and concrete. The one pool villa and 15 rooms, each with at least a partial river view, boast Lanna accents via rich local textiles and teak furnishings. Both restaurants, Sala Lanna Eatery and Italia, offer scenic river settings, while the rooftop enjoys a panoramic view of town and river. 49 Charoen Rat Rd | 0 5324 2590 | salaresorts.com/lanna
DHARA DHEVI CHIANG MAI Spread over 52 carefully landscaped acres that intersperse exotic architectural forms with working rice paddies, huge banyan trees, towering palms, and tropical flowers, the ambitious Dhara Dhevi pays tribute to a time when the royal capitals of northern Southeast Asia were among the most magnificent in the world. Long a collector of Lanna, Shan, Burmese, Lao, and Thai Lü art and artefacts, the owner has filled the public areas of the resort with treasured objects from his collection, including antique Chiang Mai silverwork and Burmese lacquerware. Paintings and sculptures by local artists adorn the living spaces, while plush Persian-style carpets cover polished teak floors. Baby grand pianos are found in the more expensive villas. 51/4 Moo 1, Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd | 0 5388 8888 dharadhevi.com
TAMARIND VILLAGE Taking its name from the tamarind orchard that occupied the land on which the hotel was built—a huge 200-yearold tree on the grounds has been left intact—this comfortable hotel in the very middle of the Old City offers a quiet retreat from busy streets. One- and two-storey wings built in tropical colonial style, each elegantly decorated with Lanna-inspired art and furniture, face the three spacious courtyards. 50/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd | 0 5341 8896 | tamarindvillage.com NOVEMBER 2015 | 41
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EAT THE DINING ROOM Modern Thai recipes showing Chiang Mai influences are served in 137 Pillars House’s elegantly renovated Borneo Company offices. Menu highlights include Gaeng Hung Lay Gae (northern dry curry, slow cooked lamb shank, and edamame) and Miang Yum Ped Nuea Pou (crispy shredded duck and crab salad with cantaloupe, shallots, and Shiso leaves) 2 Soi 1, Na Wat Ket Rd | 0 5324 7788 | snhcollection. com/137pillarshouse | daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner
DAVID’S KITCHEN AT 909 This recently relocated restaurant, opposite the British Council, features a kitchen run by a former Dhara Dhevi chef who cooks up French and Italian dishes with subtle Thai twists. Seating includes a communal table in the informal Glass Room, and guests are invited to explore the various wines available at the wine bar. 113 Bumrungrad Rd, Wat Ket | 0 5311 0732 davidskitchenat909.com
ANCHAN VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT A simple dining room of wooden tables adorned with fresh flowers is the humble setting for Chiang Mai’s most highly praised vegetarian fare. Weekly specials are marked on a chalkboard menu, but you can’t fail with massaman curry, cashew tempeh, and crispy banana-flower salad washed down with a papayalime smoothie. Portions are large. Nimmanhemin Rd, Soi 10 | 08 3581 1689 facebook.com/AnchanVegetarianRestaurant
SP CHICKEN Connoisseurs of kai yang, Isaan- style grilled chicken, rave about cook/owner Chavalit Van’s version, which uses vertical spits to slowly roast the lemongrass-and-garlicstuffed birds on a wall of charcoal. Fill out the traditional 42 | NOVEMBER 2015
Isaan meal with a plate of spicy green papaya salad, a basket of sticky rice, and a cold Singha. 9/1 Sam Larn Soi 1 | 08 0500 5035
THE SERVICE 1921 RESTAURANT & BAR The well-restored former British consulate, part of the Anantara Chiang Mai, occupies a tranquil spot of the banks of the Ping River. Here the kitchen serves contemporary Thai, Szechuan, and Vietnamese cuisines cooked by native chefs for each. The décor has a British secret service theme, from the file-folder style menus to the spy peephole on the entrance to the private dining room accessed via a secret bookshelf door in the library. This is one of the coolest and most interesting openings in recent memory. Charoen Prathet Rd | chiang-mai.anantara.com | 0 5325 3333 daily lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-11pm, Asian light bites 11.30pm-1.30am
AKHA AMA COFFEE In a town with more coffee shops per capita than anywhere else in Thailand, the two branches of Akha Ama stand out. Beans are sustainably farmed by 20 families—mostly Akha and other hilltribe minorities—in Mae Suay district to the north, and then carefully roasted in-house to produce blends and single-estate coffees across an impressive range of strength and complexity. Choose your preferred method of caffeine delivery from espresso, Aeropress, French press, or pour-over. Delicious cakes and muffins, baked fresh every day, are also available. Wat Phra Sing branch: 175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd 08 6915 8600 Santitham branch: 9/1 Hussadhisewee Rd, Soi 3 | akhaama.com
MUST SEES WAT KETKARAM One of the oldest neighbourhoods in Chiang Mai is an area extending from the east bank of the Ping River around Wat Ketkaram (known as “Wat Ket” or “Wat Gate” for short). Originally the only structure of significance on this side of the river was a tall stupa called Phra That Ketkaew Chulamani, erected in 1428 to house a Buddha hair relic. As the Lanna bangkok101.com
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kingdom’s walled, moated city of Chiang Mai flourished to the west, the residents eventually established a monastery around the stupa in 1578-81. Today it’s one of the 10 holiest stupas in northern Thailand, particularly for worshippers born in the Year of the Dog on the Chinese calendar.
to benefit the Asian Elephant Foundation. Striking original-design scarves, handbags, and other accessories are also available for purchase.
WAT PHRA THAT DOI SUTHEP Of many well-known, well-touristed temples in Chiang Mai, this gilded 14th-century cloister perched 1676 metres above the city on Doi Suthep should not be missed. If you’d rather not slog up the 306-step nagalined staircase, take the elevator-like tramway for B50. To avoid crowds, arrive around 5pm and stay through sunset, when the chanting of resident monks generates a peaceful environment. 0 5320 6835 | daily 7am-7pm
WIANG KUM KAM Five kilometres south of town stand the excavated ruins of Chiang Mai’s first city site, founded by the Mon in the 11th century and later sacked by Burmese invaders. Stroll among the brick remains of seven temples, and visit Wat Chedi Liam, one of two additional temples still functioning. daily 8am-5pm
DOI MON JAM At the heart of the Nong Hoy Royal Project, this humble peak offers surprisingly majestic views across the Mae Ping Valley. After touring the project’s strawberry fields and grape orchards, stop at the open-air dining room for herb teas, natural fruit juices, and Thai fusion cuisine prepared using farm-fresh produce. 22/8 Moo 7, Mae Ram, Mae Rim | 0 5381 0765 thairoyalprojecttour.com | daily 8am-7pm
SHOP COLOUR FACTORY Local and international artists (including such names as Mark Jacobs and Isaac Mizrahi) have painted hundreds of whimsical designs on resin elephant sculptures in several sizes to produce Elephant Parade, a collection sold here 44 | NOVEMBER 2015
154-156 Charoen Rat Rd 0 5324 6448 | colourfac.com
SOP MOEI ARTS Named for a district in the Salween River basin, Sop Moei Arts helps Pwo Karen villagers market their arts and crafts in novel ways. Traditional basket shapes morph into fruit bowls, handbags, wine-bottle holders, and other items of daily use. Bamboo and wood interwoven with colourful fabrics produce sumptuous wall hangings. 150/10 Charoen Rat Rd | 0 5330 6123 | sopmoeiarts.com
THE BOOKSMITH Sirote Jiraprayoon, former director of Thailand’s ubiquitous Asia Books, runs this independent bookshop on Nimmanhemin, conveniently close to Ristr8to for those who need caffeine with their literature. The stock emphasizes oversize titles on art, architecture, and graphic design, along with a small but well-selected fiction collection. 11 Nimmanhemin Rd, between Soi 1 and Soi 3 09 1071 8767 | Mon-Sat 10am-9.30pm
WUALAI WALKING STREET Wualai Road has been Chiang Mai’s centre for traditional Lanna silversmithing for over a century. Every Saturday evening the street closes to vehicles and fills instead with vendor stalls offering silverwork and other handicrafts. Bands pound out Thai folk music from rustic stages while neighbourhood grannies hawk local snacks. Every Saturday, 5pm-midnight
RATCHADAMNOEN WALKING STREET Along Ratchdamnoen Road, stretching west from Tha Phae Gate through the heart of the Old City, this lively, crowded market replaces the Night Bazaar as the premier shopping draw every Sunday evening. As at Wualai, the emphasis is on local handiwork, but here you’ll also see crafts imported from Nepal, China, and elsewhere. Every Sunday, 5pm- midnight bangkok101.com
WHITE TRUFFLE SEASON Available during November and December 2015 Lunch 12.00-14.30 hrs., Dinner 18.30-22.30 hrs.
Luce Italian Restaurant
Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok
33/1 South Sathorn Rd., Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T. +662 210 8100 F.+662 210 8399
LuceRestaurantBangkok
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Chiang Mai’s Hipster Haven BY GABY DOMAN
For most of us, there’s only so much temple-hopping you can do before a big slab of cake, a cup of coffee, and a little crafty retail therapy is in order. Fortunately, in Chiang Mai, there’s Nimmanhaemin Road—often referred to as Nimman—one of city’s coolest streets. This one-kilometre stretch of asphalt manages to pack in bars, art galleries, cute cafés, and artisans, making it a true one-stop destination, which sure comes in handy when you’re in holiday mode and the most activity you want to do is raise a beer to your parched lips. A favourite starting point is Libraista, a coffee shop for the languid bookworm. Everything in the venue is conducive to a day spent doing little more than reading, eating Shibuya toast, slurping on Rogue beers, and using the free WiFi. Floor-to-ceiling windows, a lounge and outdoor terrace next to a koi pond, a library, and a garden full of colourful and mildly alarming animal statues distinguish this café from the dozens of others in the neighbourhood. 46 | NOVEMBER 2015
If cake just isn’t going to cut it, check out Rustic and Blue. The restaurant serves some of Chiang Mai’s best artisanal fare—from sandwiches to lattes, from tacos to ice cream—that even the most die-hard health nut might admit to enjoying, as it’s all made from fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. The setting is the star attraction, though, with a grassy lawn dolled up with a sofa and white tepees complete with personal table settings. Think: casual-chic backyard barbeque. bangkok101.com
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If it’s hearty Western fare you’re after, well, we’re not here to judge you. Smoothie Blues has got you covered with bagels bursting with hunks of cheese and piles of fresh salad, toasties, homemade muesli, and obscenely large burgers. Comfort food is the name of the game in this eatery. Like any guilty pleasure, you’ll probably be back for more of it. These Western dishes do the trick better than most venues in Chiang Mai manage. But Nimman is more than just a spot to go on a smoothie bender. Gerard Collection Casa, a bamboo furniture shop, is a great destination if you’ve got enough cash in the budget to ship back a few homemade pieces. Traditional Thai furniture is given a modern update at this very affordable showroom. Chiang Mai University Art Museum is another worthwhile stop. There’s no permanent collection, so even if you’ve been before, it’s worth stopping in to see what’s new. Contemporary art—both local and international—is displayed, and there’s a big focus on up-and-coming art talents, making it one of the more exciting galleries in the city. After dark, those in the know head to Warmup Cafe. Located right beside the street, this nightclub is usually packed with locals rather than tourists, but if you have a little money to spend and want a more authentic experience than beers in a mozzie-filled garden with a bangkok101.com
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bunch of backpackers, then this place is ideal. The slick venue attracts the city’s coolest kids, thanks to a winning combination of live music, EDM in a laid-back lounge, and a great al fresco restaurant and bar. And sushi… Yep, that’s probably what the nightclubs you’ve been frequenting have been missing all this time. Sushi. Really, you could quite easily spend an entire day on this street alone, and if you were determined to go the distance, you could definitely do worse than staying at the Nimman Mai Design Hotel, which offers a little slice of affordable luxury right in the middle of Chiang Mai’s coolest street.
Chiang Mai University Art Museum NOV EMBER 2015 | 47
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hotel review
The Elephant in the Room The a Golden Triangle’s Unparalleled Ellie Experience BY OLIVER BENJAMIN
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he expression “Elephant in the Room” is commonly used to describe something so big and important it can’t be ignored. At Anantara Golden Triangle, the inevitable distraction is, of course, a happy one: the elephants themselves. While there’s much to recommend at this exotic-yet-affectionate resort other than elephants, these outrageously adorable creatures remain at its centre of gravity. A luxurious all-inclusive format ensures that guests enjoy an assortment of customizable adventures. And while these activities are uniformly exceptional—from Thai cooking courses to fascinating day trips to nearby 48 | NOVEMBER 2015
Myanmar—most visitors opt to spend as much time as they can in the presence of elephants. Various means of getting “elequainted” are presented, from dining in their company to learning how to speak their language. A mahout training course teaches visitors how to control an ellie from the perch of its massive neck (don’t worry—they can barely feel you). And the Anantara’s newest adventure may be even more endearing, due no doubt to the presence of planet Earth’s cutest creature: the baby elephant. “Walking with Giants” invites you to tag along as 18-month-old Suki and his mother meander through the jungle on their daily bangkok101.com
hotel review
constitutional. Visitors are provided with sugarcane to ply them with as they stretch their legs and snack on dense foliage. All the while, a member of the veterinarian team gives a crash course in all things elephant. The sight of Suki rolling around in the red earth, mischievously darting to and fro as his mother tries to keep him on task, is one you’re bound to remember, even if your memory isn’t quite at elephant-level. Of course, while opportunities to interact with the noble beasts abound in Thailand, the Anantara is without peer when it comes to promoting elephant welfare—not only are their animals among the best-treated in Thailand, the resort also runs its own charity (helpingelephants.org), regularly plays host to visiting scientific research teams, and has established pragmatic programmes to rescue elephants from a life of street begging by “adopting” mahouts and their families into the resort community. S participation in elephant events here feels less like safari tourism and much more like taking part in a long tradition of elephant husbandry stretching back to the beginnings of Thai civilization. Transforming a stay from a typical tourist transaction to one conveying the sense that you are very much a treasured guest is the all-inclusive format. Instead of feeling forced to “opt in” to add-ons, it’s as if you were invited to take part in a mutual pastime by a genuinely welcoming community. This also enhances the level and quality of service, since the staff aren’t compelled up-sell or deal with money in any way, and can therefore bangkok101.com
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concentrate on earnest interaction and attending to the needs of guests. Perhaps it’s testament to the Anantara Golden Triangle’s winning formula that the resort sees a high percentage of repeat visitors, an effect equally influenced by the continual addition of features and the adaptable nature of their service. It seems anything is possible. Want to explore the jade-green scenery of the Golden Triangle by bicycle? Care to get married on an elephant, or do yoga with one? A picnic in the rice paddies? They can make it happen. It’s a bit like “Fantasy Island,” that old TV show from the 70s in which visitors’ dreams were made to come true, although without the bittersweet plot twists. Newer developments include a “Dining by Design” activity, in which guests work with chefs to design the ultimate fantasy dinner, and a “Family Suite” room—the triple-sized suites feature a separate bedroom the size of a standard room and a double-sized living area that boasts a walk-in closet, a king-sized bed, a second bathroom with a nearly-elephant sized tub, and a proper espresso machine to help you get up and out and into the green space beyond the door. It’s not easy finding a truly unique experience these days, but with Anantara Golden Triangle’s unusually open and flexible approach toward engineering experience, the resort seems to have cultivated a new kind of tourism— one in which you feel at home, even as you find yourself suddenly transported to a faraway fantasy district deep in the tropical hinterlands of Planet Elephant. NOVEMBER 2015 | 49
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A pile of Thai herbs: food for the mind, body, and soul
Lanna Heals
Before Western medicine became the norm in Southeast Asia, northern Thailand boasted a rich tradition of disease prevention, diagnosis, and treatment WORDS BY JOE CUMMINGS - PHOTOS BY LUCA TETTONI
B
efore the Kingdom of Chiang Mai was annexed to Siam in the early 20th century, health care in northern Thailand was rooted in Tai and MonKhmer practices dating back thousands of years. While modern Western medicine typically examines and then treats the perceived symptoms of illness, Lanna traditions take a more holistic view. Every sphere of human activity becomes an opportunity for enhancing one’s health. DIET Meals, for example, are ideally planned so that they contain a balance of all the basics needed for a healthy body. These include not only such obvious modern-world constituents such as protein, carbohydrates, and vitamins, but also a range of herbs, roots, rhizomes, seeds, and seasonings believed to alleviate everyday aches and pains as well as prevent common ailments. 50 | NOVEMBER 2015
For example kra-chai (Chinese key), a root of the ginger family that is a common seasoning in fish dishes, is known to cure a number of gastrointestinal ailments. Likewise another member of the ginger family, khaa (galangal), reduces gas, while kha-min (turmeric) relieves constipation. All three of these roots were consumed on a daily basis in northern Thailand since at least the earliest Thai chronicles were written down. Traditional Lanna medical practitioners may express these health-enhancing properties in very different ways. Disease may be seen as blockage or imbalance in one’s vital life force. Techniques such as herbal medicine, massage, and psycho-spiritual healing are utilised to maintain balance or to bring this vital force back into balance. Today, such therapies have been found to have enormous utility for treating chronic diseases such as arthritis, chronic fatigue, irritable bowel syndrome, nerve bangkok101.com
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Dok sen, a type of massage, traces the meridians
Lanna wellness traditions date back centuries
Preparing a Lanna herbal ball
dysfunction, muscle pain, and certain skin conditions. As a result, traditional Lanna healing practices have recaptured the attention of Asians and Westerners alike, undergoing a rebirth of popularity in villages as well as hotels and city spas.
propagation and maintenance of Thai massage at Wat Pho in Bangkok, where it remains today. Northern Thais, meanwhile, have retained their own separate massage therapy tradition, the training for which is today centred at the Traditional Medicine Hospital in Chiang Mai. Lanna massage, although not radically different from the Wat Pho approach, features a softer touch and a more continuous movement of the therapist’s hands, fingers, elbows, and feet. One interesting variation specific to the Chiang Mai area is the use of a wooden mallet and blunt wooden peg to lightly but firmly tap the musculature above the nerve meridians. In Lanna this practice is called dok sen (hammering the meridians). In another northern Thai technique, yam khaang, the therapists heat the sole of one foot on a thick sheet of hot, oiled iron (taken from a field plough), then applies the warm foot to areas of the patient’s body, such as the lower back, to relieve sore muscles.
MASSAGE The most internationally famous type of northern Thai medical therapy is nuat phaen boraan (traditional massage). This extensive and highly refined massage system combines characteristics of massage (stroking and kneading the muscles), chiropractic (manipulating skeletal parts), and acupressure (applying deep, consistent pressure to specific nerves, tendons, or ligaments) in order to balance the functions of the four body elements. These four elements are din (earth—the solid parts of the body, including skeleton, muscles, blood vessels, tendons, and ligaments); naam (water—blood and bodily secretions); fai (fire—digestion and metabolism); and lom (air—respiration and circulation). A multi-pronged approach uses the hands, thumbs, fingers, elbows, forearms, knees, and feet, and is applied to the traditional pressure points along the various sen or meridians, while also kneading the musculature around these lines. The human body is thought to have 72 thousand of these, of which ten are crucial. Depending on which muscles and meridians are being treated, the therapists will massage their patients while the latter are lying on their stomach, back, or side, or while they are sitting cross-legged. Bangkok and central Thailand placed the national bangkok101.com
HERBAL TREATMENTS It’s no coincidence that in most cases the same herbs and spices used in Lanna cuisine, most of them native to Southeast Asia, are also considered samun phrai (indigenous medicinal plants) with specific therapeutic attributes. Some can be used externally as well as taken with food. Traditional pharmacological therapy employs prescribed herbs from among 700 plant varieties (plus a limited number of animal sources), which are infused, boiled, powdered, or otherwise rendered into a NOVEMBER 2015 | 51
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Sak yan offers bodily and spiritual embellishment consumable form. Common yaa klaang baan (household medicines) include the root and stem of the bawraphet (Tinospora rumphii, a type of wood climber) for fever reduction; raak chaa-phluu (Piper roots) for stomach ailments; and various yaa hawm (fragrant medicines) used as balms for muscle pain or headaches. In all the ex-Lanna lands, such medicines are readily available over the counter at traditional medicine shops and, to a lesser extent, in modern pharmacies. Herbal treatment combines with massage when Lanna medicinal herbs are moistened and heated in cloth pouches, then applied to the body to cure aches, pains, or dermal afflictions. Many of these same natural medicines may also be used for herbal steam treatments. Even today, many Buddhist temples in former Lanna lands offer rustic herbal steam rooms open to the general public. The process has been refined in more recent times, and Lanna herbal steams are becoming a standard component of modern spa facilities at hotels, resorts, and day spas in northern Thailand and Laos. PSYCHO-SPIRITUAL HEALING A third aspect of traditional Lanna medicine called raksaa thaang nai (inner healing) or kae kam kao (literally, “old karma repair”) includes various types of meditation or visualisation practised by the patient, as well as shamanistic rituals performed by qualified healers. These strategies represent the psycho-spiritual side of Lanna medical therapy, and like massage are usually practised in conjunction with other types of treatment. 52 | NOV EM BER 2015
They are also occasionally used as preventive measures, as in the Lanna bai see ritual, now common in northern Thailand, northeastern Thailand, and Laos. This ceremony, marked by the tying of string loops around a subject’s wrists, is intended to bind the 32 khwan (personal guardian spirits) —each associated with a specific organ—to the individual. The ritual is often performed before a person departs on a major journey to ensure the traveller returns home safely. A related healing practice specific to the Lanna region is the seup chataa (life-extending) ritual, where a devotee with perceived health problems or other misfortune will sit beneath a pyramid-shaped lattice of bamboo poles erected inside the wihaan (main temple hall) all day long while resident monks chant Buddhist verses. A more esoteric practice for ensuring health and wellbeing involves the application of sak yan (yantra tattoos) to the body. In Lanna lands the tradition dates back to the pre-Buddhist animism practiced by tribal Tai throughout the region. Although tattoo designs have evolved substantially over the centuries, a common theme all along has been the representation of auspicious animals accompanied by talismanic alphabets (usually Lanna or Shan script). Representations of crocodile, geckos, and squirrels, for example, are said to make others regard the wearer in a more favourable light or with greater compassion. The image of a lion increases one’s charismatic power, while that of a tiger enhances one’s physical power. Combining diet, herbal therapy, massage, and ritual, Lanna health practices not only provide a rich alternative to allopathic medicine, they help preserve the cultural identity of northern Thais. bangkok101.com
Rush
Photo Credit: Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures
Adrenaline Ad ve nt ure Activities in the Gre at N or th
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hiang Mai has become the de facto hub for adventure tourism in Thailand. And why wouldn’t that be the case? Between avian heights, roaring rivers, and thick jungle canopy, its wild peripheral terrain is an adventurer’s illicit dream. Allured by the unbridled beauty of the region, an increasing number of tour operators have set up shop in the city, offering excursions above, below, and on the ground that make endorphins soar. Here are a few top options for the experts and uninitiated alike. ROCKY ROADS For decades, rock climbers have flocked to Krabi to scale the piebald karst. But in recent years the North has become a prime destination for Thailand’s mountaineers, particularly the environmentalists among them. Thirty minutes from Chiang Mai by car or motorbike, “The Crack”—the colloquial name for Crazy Horse Buttress—has earned a reputation as a world-class venue. The Crack has 16 crags and almost 200 routes, with enough bunny courses to cater to newbies and the technical slabs, sheer faces, and nauseating overhangs that make experienced climbers’ mouths water. What distinguishes the setup here is that, from the early days, climbing companies have mapped out sustainable development programmes. Climbing at The Crack and its neighbouring buttresses has provided a positive economic and environmental impact on the local area. Want to give this horse-shaped rock wall a shot? Check out Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures. The pros lead beginner courses, certification programmes, and frequent trips to The Crack. The team keeps sustainability at the core of its mission, too. Visit thailandclimbing.com for more information.
Hold Your Horses: Safety and sustainability matter most
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Photo Credit: Flight of the Gibbon
JUNGLE FEVER What trip to Chiang Mai would be complete without a foray into the wild? Explore the canopy from the vantage point of its native children—monkeys—with a zipline adventure. Customers are held in by harnesses and guided by certified professionals as they race through a series of suspended cables. The experience can be a little nerve-racking at first, but adrenaline replaces fear after one or two long, fast glides along the cables. Some runs last as long as 300 metres, a truly exhilarating ride. The sensation of flying through the forest leaves memories that won’t be forgotten easily. What’s more, operating out of the jungle, zipline companies promote conservation. It’s a win-win for customers. In Chiang Mai, many companies now run zipline tours. Flight of the Gibbon was the first to arrive. With operations across Asia, this eco-adventure stalwart has a sterling status for safety and excitement. It also boasts the longest single zipline in Southeast Asia, as well as a variety of packages, including honeymoon tandem tours. Jungle Flight started a couple of years after Flight of the Gibbon, offering long, stomach-dropping runs and the occasional abseil in its two packages. Visit treetopasia.com to see what Flight of the Gibbon offers and jungleflightchiangmai.com to explore Jungle Flight’s options. Both are reputable. Expect to spend a half day among the trees.
Photo Credit: Chiang Mai Sky Adventure
GETTING HIGH While ziplines provide a treetop perspective, nothing beats the views from the basket of a hot air balloon wandering high into the sky—or, better yet, the sweeping vistas a microlight flight affords. Established in 1998, Chiang Mai Sky Adventure offers hot air balloon rides north of town, as well as flights over paddy fields and the Mae Kueng Dam in microlights, a kind of motorized hang glider. When skies are clear, the horizon stretches like a rubber band, and life below melts into the land. Hot air balloons can rise to heights of 3000 metres, although most will remain much closer to earth. Microlights, on the other hand, fly at low altitudes, but quickly. The open air and velocity produce an experience no doubt similar to what the Wright brothers must have felt a century ago. Go to skyadventures.info to organize a tour of Chiang Mai from above. bangkok101.com
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Photo Credit: X-Biking Chiang Mai
OFF (AND ON) ROAD ACTION Tour the countryside on two wheels. With steep climbs, cool mountain breezes, and postcard scenery, the North has become Thailand’s preferred starting point for cycling tours. Long-established Spice Roads Cycle Tours leads week-long rides in the old Lanna Kingdom. Days alternate between flat and hilly, long and short, and each group gets its own local guide. From stunning viewpoints like Phu Chi Fah to stops at golden temples, the tours take in the top sights in the region, even some of the lesser-known ones. On the other end of the spectrum from Le Tourstyle road riding, mountain bike specialists X Biking lead daring riders along Chiang Mai’s rugged downhill tracks and scenic trails. One option visits the serene Huay Tung Tao, and the other explores the wilderness, navigating a 14-kilometre descent. To sign up for the tours, go to spiceroads.com and xbikingchiangmai.com, respectively. Riders should be in good shape. The packages can be tailored to suit specific needs.
WET AND WILD While it isn’t the Colorado, the Mae Taeng River on the border of Chiang Mai Province does have some challenging rapids—perhaps some of the best in Thailand to tackle. Around Loy Krathong, the river swells and picks up speed, making November an ideal time to go whitewater rafting. With grade three and four rapids, the Mae Taeng requires at least a little technical skill. Yet there are also easier channels to navigate downriver. One company in
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particular, Siam Rivers, has incorporated other outdoor adventures into its itineraries, offering rafting trips under the light of the full moon and then spending the night in a jungle homestay. There are also single day journeys, two-day whitewater rafting trips, and various treks into the wild from which to choose. Visit siamrivers.com to learn more about the various rafting excursions available. Beyond water adventures, the company also puts together hilltribe treks, biking tours, and multi-sport activities.
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Thailand’s got talent: Groups get on stage and grab the mics at Mojo Cafe and Gallery
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Jam Mai Swe et Musical Jam Sessions Spre ad O ver Chiang M ai Cit y BY OLIVER BENJAMIN
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ith its abundance of gifted Thai and foreign musicians and an easy-going approach to virtually everything, Chiang Mai is probably the best place to enjoy (and play) improvised music in Thailand. Though Bangkok may boast a more polished and professional music scene, it is in Chiang Mai that Thailand’s jam culture truly jells. Most nights of the week funky, unrehearsed, and bravely spontaneous musical mash-ups rock various bars across the city. Visiting musicians arriving at these so-called “open mic” events generally receive a red carpet welcome, even if they aren’t worldclass players. That’s because, like everything else in Chiang Mai, the music scene tends to be more about frisson than finesse. It doesn’t have to be fine—it just has to be fun. Here are some highlights:
BOY’S BLUES BAR Monday night, starting at 9.30pm; opening band at 8.30pm Styles: Blues, Oldies, Folk boybluesbar.com Boy’s offers what is probably the liveliest and most welcoming vibe in town, both for players and the audience. The open-air deck upstairs ensures that the sound is never uncomfortably loud, no matter how blotto a drummer may be. Performances can be sloppy at times, but that’s part of the fun—the artists are playing without a net, usually having met just five minutes before. A constant rotation of jammers is expertly presided over by Boy, the owner, one the nicest guys in town and Chiang Mai’s current bishop of the blues guitar. Boy is the nephew of the legendary Took of The Brasserie, which used to be the only place in town to go for true Western
An impromptu session takes over Tea Trea Cafe bangkok101.com
blues. Since The Brasserie closed down, Boy’s has picked up the slack. The rest of the week Boy plays a straight up set of blues-rock with his expert band, and jammers are occasionally welcome if they arrange something beforehand.
NORTH GATE JAZZ CO-OP Tuesday night, starting at 9pm Styles: Modern Jazz, Funk, World Music facebook.com/northgate.jazzcoop The longest running open mic night in Chiang Mai also features the highest standard of musicianship. Some truly world-class players show up at the North Gate Jazz Co-op regularly, from the former trumpeter for The Waterboys to the saxophonist for The Sun Ra orchestra. Though the scene is mostly modern jazz, they also let more plebeian
The bustling Boy’s Blues Bar NOVEMBER 2015 | 59
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Couples chill out to acoustic jams at Gossip Bar and Gallery players grab the mic (or amp cable). This may not be the place to do crusty mainstream songs like “Walking on Heaven’s Door” and “Hotel California,” but anything with a little spring in its step should be acceptable for the horn-heavy participants. The rest of the week, North Gate features a slew of eclectic bands populated by a mix of both Thai and foreign virtuosos.
MOJO CAFÉ AND GALLERY Thursday night, starting at 9pm Styles: Funk, Oldies, Rock, Speed Metal, Flamenco, you name it. facebook.com/mojocafeandgallery Run by the former editor of the Pai Post—Nui, a great player in his own right—Mojo’s has an intimate and funky vibe, largely due to its small size. It also features more Thai musicians than most other places, some of which can appear a bit foreign-heavy. Moreover, a kaleidoscopic selection of musical genres is often on display here. Fancy speed metal with saxophones? Isaan-ese Mor Lam meets James Brown? You’ll find it at Mojo. Some good bands play throughout the weekend, as well.
THE TEA TREE CAFE Thursday night, starting at 8pm Styles: Acoustic Pop, Oldies, Folk, Reggae, World Music theteatreecafe.com If Hippieland existed and it had an embassy in Chiang Mai, its offices would be located here. Aside from serving health tonics, vegan food, and raw desserts, it also features a friendly acoustic jam session every Thursday night. However, this is less like playing in a bar to an audience and more like lounging with friends in someone’s living room, spontaneously joining in for a sing-along. Got a didgeridoo or a ukulele? This would be the place to whip it out. 60 | NOVEMBER 2015
PAPA ROCK Thursday night, starting at 8pm/every other Sunday afternoon, starting around 2.30pm Styles: Rock, naturally. And other stuff, too. Aside from acoustic jams, a great sound system, and a new stage, Papa Rock also serves lip-smacking Western food, courtesy of Nicky, the British chef/rocker/owner who used to run the Guitarman Pub and Restaurant. Many insist this place has the best pizzas, burgers, and shawarma in town, so you might get distracted from the tunes. It also plays host to a popular daytime jam (arrange to join beforehand) every other Sunday afternoon.
GOSSIP BAR AND GALLERY Friday night, starting around 9pm Styles: Oldies, Folk, Thai Folk, Reggae. The old-fashioned furniture and casual décor make this tiny place feel like a languid artist’s living room, even more so than the Tea Tree Café. An unplugged sort of situation makes every performance seem charmingly familiar, helped along by the toy-sized, but functional, drum set. The lack of a sound system enhances the relaxed ambiance, and helps explain why it’s popular with young expats and Thai artists.
YUMMY PIZZA Wednesday night, starting at 8pm Styles: Pop, Old-fashioned Rock yummychiangmai.com Run by Aus-talian Toni, a talented chef and musician (Chiang Mai boasts a lot of musicians who cook), Yummy Pizza not only offers some of the best and most affordable Italian food in town, but also an informal jam session. Note that it’s a bit far from the centre of town, but it’s worth the drive for the baked pasta dishes and appreciative audience. bangkok101.com
Mum’s the word: A local artisan mixes beef with seasonings to make a rare kind of sausage
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Sausage Quest Mum’s the Word in Chiang M ai BY JOE CUMMINGS
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n any road trip through Isaan, the vast region of Thailand bordering Laos and Cambodia, long vertical rows of sausage hanging from simple roadside frames are a common sight. Most of these sausages, light-brown in hue, and dangling in hotdogshaped links, are sai krok isaan (fermented Isaan pork sausages), and are so universally popular among Thais of all regions that they can be found just about anywhere in the country. In fact, some of the best sai krok isaan I’ve ever tasted were served in Isaan restaurants in Bangkok. On occasion while travelling in the northeast, I’d spot larger, heavier ball sausages of a deep red-brown hue. I asked Bangkok friends about these, but no one that I knew had actually tasted one, or even knew what they were called. “They’re made from pork blood,” explained one Bangkok foodie when I described the sausage to her. “That’s why they’re red.”
The finished, impaled mum bangkok101.com
I later learned that the anomalous-looking sausage was called mum, sometimes spelled mam, rhyming with the British for “mom.” I never saw them anywhere outside Isaan, and in fact even there it seemed that mum territory was confined to Chaiyaphum, Khon Kaen, and Kalasin provinces for the most part. The relative rarity of this sausage only stimulated my interest, so when a northeastern Thai acquaintance in Chiang Mai happened to mention that she knew a couple who made mum at Khamthiang Market, I persuaded her to take me to meet them. Wijit Sikaew and her husband run a rustic Isaan eatery in the market called Somtam Kalasin which consists of wood poles supporting grass-and-palm thatched roofing over a dirt floor. A couple of charcoal pots and a work table in a back corner make up the kitchen. Amused by my keen interest in the backwoods specialty, Wijit drags me over to a large bucket covered
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Sausages sway in the breeze, hung out to dry with a well-worn white cloth. She pulls the cloth aside to reveal a huge mound of raw chopped meat and gestured for me to have a taste. I grab a pinch, roll it in my fingers, sniff it, and realize that it’s beef, not pork. As it turns out, beef is the standard mum filling, although a few cooks do a pork variation. Placing the roll in my mouth, I experience a sturdy wave of tartness followed by savoury fresh beef tones and a slight iron-ish finish. Wijit explains that the addition of beef liver accounts for the enhanced flavour as well as the deep red colour. There is no blood in mum other than what is already present in the meat. Wijit details how she combines eight kilos of handchopped beef and a kilo of liver, a half kilo of khao khua (toasted sticky rice, pounded to a coarse powder), a plate of cooked white rice, salt, and MSG. She lets the mixture age for a day, then squeezes out excess moisture before stuffing it into casings. For the larger ball sausages, cow bladders are used, and for smaller links, cow intestines. Wijit says that nowadays most of her customers prefer the link style as it’s cheaper—B20 (about 60 cents) per link. Once the links are stuffed, she hangs them in the sun for five or six days to let the contents dry and ferment. Even after one day in the sun, the beef will be quite noticeably tart. Some of Wijit’s clientele eat the links raw, but most order it either grilled or fried. I try a fat grilled link, and I’m blown away by how different it is from the more familiar sai krok isaan, or even sai oua, Chiang Mai’s own chillilaced sausage. Mum is very dry in texture, with none of the fat globules or oiliness commonly found in other Thai 64 | NOVEMBER 2015
sausages. It is almost like a dry salami in texture, but more crumbly. After talking to other Isaan cooks, I find there are as many home-grown mum recipes as there are mummakers. Many add garlic to the mix. Some refuse to add rice, which speeds up the fermentation but, according to them, dilutes the richness of the beef. Some mum experts claim that three days of sun-drying, followed by two days in the shade, results in the perfect level of tartness and prevents excessive drying. As with sai krok isaan, mum is always eaten with chunks of fresh garlic and whole bird’s eye chillis, served on the side. Some northeasterners also like to spice it up further with fresh young ginger slices. MAKE YOUR OWN MUM • 1 kg fresh beef • 300 grams beef liver • 6 cloves Thai garlic • Half-cup ground, toasted sticky rice • 2 kg cow intestines or bladder • Chop the meat, liver, and garlic by hand so it’s fine enough to be easily formed into lumps. • Stuff the casings with the mixture. • Hang the links in sunlight for three days till dry and dark brown. • Hang in the shade another day or two until the sausage tastes sour and salty. • Break open the links into chunks, fry until cooked through, and served with fresh garlic, young ginger, and whole bird’s eye chillies.
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The Lost World: In Khon Kaen province, reptiles and humans still co-exist
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WHERE REPTILES RULE Thre e Villages in Khon Kaen Pa y Tribut e t o our Slithering, Scaly, and Slow-moving Frie nds WORDS AND PHOTOS BY JIM ALGIE
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utside of Thailand’s national parks, only in the northeastern province of Khon Kaen are you likely to see signs beside the road that read, “Warning: King Cobra Crossing.” It’s a sure sign that you’re on the right track to see the “Cobra Village,” or Ban Kok Sa-nga, where the locals put on daily shows of derringdo as snake-handlers wrestle with king cobras up to fifteen-feet long. The majority of the 700 villagers raise snakes, and some even keep them as pets, said Sirisak Noi Lek, the president of the village’s Cobra Conservation Club. “The tradition started back in the 1950s when a man named Ken Yongla from this village began travelling around the countryside selling herbal medicines. To attract more people, he started doing regular shows with cobras, but these snakes were too dangerous because they can spit venom for several metres. So he used king cobras instead. They’re still dangerous, but the venom is delivered through their fangs. Ken trained many of the locals to do the performances and how to raise snakes.” The chiming of cow bells heralded the arrival of a shepherd directing her charges down the dirt road as Sirisak leads us to the back of his house. Curled up in a wooden box is a python thick as a fire-hose. The locals catch some of these reptiles with their gloved hands when they’re sleeping during the day. Every few days Sirisak feeds the python smaller snakes or a frog. Some of the serpents have their gall bladders removed for Chinese potions or they are mixed with whiskey for an aphrodisiac. Other snakes are cast as performers in shows that pit man against serpent. But snakes occupy a different place in Thai and Buddhist folklore than they do in many Western countries. Far from the treacherous figure in the Garden of Eden that encouraged Eve to eat the forbidden fruit of knowledge, bangkok101.com
thereby bringing about the downfall of humankind, the seven-headed “Lord of the Serpents” (Phaya Nak) opened his hoods to protect the Buddha from the elements as he attained enlightenment while meditating under the sacred ficus tree. For many Thais, Phaya Nak, whose long body forms the balustrades of many Buddhist temples, is a symbol of reverence. So it’s hardly surprising that the locals opened a special laboratory to breed king cobras in the Buddhist temple, near the zoo and the venue for performances. On this afternoon, sitting in the bleachers surrounding the stage, was a gaggle of Buddhist monks, draped with orange robes, among a smattering of Thais and tourists. Behind the stage was a gigantic billboard for Pepsi, framed by photos of Their Majesties the King and Queen of Thailand. To the tape-recorded tune of hand-pummelled drums, the clink, clink, clink of finger cymbals, and an Indian oboe playing melodies serpentine enough to charm a cobra—the same traditional tunes played live during Muay Thai boxing matches—three dancers took centre-stage. Dressed in pink sarongs, each of the young ladies wore live garlands of sinuous pythons, jaws wired shut with string. Shooting off flashbulb smiles, the dancers’ slowmotion body language spoke volumes about the tranquillity of traditional Thai culture and how intertwined this folklore is with native fauna. At the back of the stage, a snake-handler used a long metal pole with a hook to pull a writhing king cobra out of a box. Black with silver bands, the three-metre-long serpent described a series of S’s as it slithered toward the front of the stage. In the crowd, spines straightened and a hush descended. The venom of a single king cobra bite is enough to kill a man unless treated immediately or a hundred rodents. Many of the snake-wrestlers take NOV EM BER 2015 | 67
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A replica of one of Khon Kaen’s first inhabitants
Tortoises trundle, crawl, and climb in Ban Kok
Does this scene get your heart pumping?
herbal concoctions daily to lessen the possibility of fatalities. Just the same, a local medic equipped with antivenom attends every show in case tragedy bites. On his knees the snake-handler crawled toward it. The king cobra reared up into the striking position, its forked tongue licking the air. Snakes use their tongues for sniffing out their quarry and any potential enemies. Quick as a whip, the king cobra lunged at him. The snake-handler dodged the attack. Distracting the snake with one hand held in the air, he crawled beside it, lowered his head and kissed the cobra on its head.
diet is grass and fruit. Some visitors feed them slices of watermelon by hand. In Ban Kok, the 400 residents, living in weatherworn houses propped up on stilts with cows underneath them, and fenced in by pickets of bamboo, are outnumbered by about five to one by tortoises. The prime times for tortoisespotting are early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Then they are everywhere: chewing up the greenery in the fields, crawling down the dirt roads, and walking into houses, where they are treated like pets. In a hamlet almost 250 years old, even the dogs do not pester them. These cold-blooded reptiles warm up during the mating season, from around June to December, when they are quite literally doing it in the streets. Like slowmotion stags in rut, the males square off in head-to-head duels, butting shells to subdue their rivals. The battlehardened winner then mounts the female from behind; the males make strange croaking noises while copulating. One of the local men, Prasong Sutwiset, who runs a home-stay for overnight visitors, said, picking up a tortoise in his front yard and flipping it over to show me, “The males have flatter stomachs and rounder shells. The females have concave stomachs and a capsule-shaped shell.” The 53-year-old, who was born in the village, is one of many locals with weird tales to relate about the creatures. “A Taiwanese film crew came here and one of them put his foot on a tortoise. Only a few minutes later all their equipment started malfunctioning. Some Thais and foreigners who stole baby tortoises later brought them back after experiencing ill health. But I guess the strangest case was a Thai tourist who accidentally ran over a tortoise in the village. Later that same day he got into a serious car accident that almost took his life,” said Prasong.
TORTOISE TOWN At Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, one of the first sights to greet visitors is a colossal statue of the Hindu creation myth, detailing the seminal “Churning of the Milky Ocean” from which all life arose. Standing atop a tortoise is the deity Vishnu. At Angkor Wat bas-reliefs depict similar tableaux. An hour’s drive from the Cobra Village in Khon Kaen province is Ban Kok, a town crawling with tortoises which also have connections with divinity. Locals believe these yellow-headed tortoises are protected by the village’s guardian spirit, Chao Khun Pa, the late abbot of a local temple who befriended the creatures. At the entranceway to the village is its totemic figure, burnished with gold, draped with garlands, and housed in a wooden pavilion. Down the main road is Tortoise Park. Bridges span the park, affording an overview of the creatures trudging around. The adults of this species (Indotestuda elongata) weigh around three kilos. Their shells, a patchwork of black and yellow, span 30 centimetres. The reptiles’ staple 68 | NOVEMBER 2015
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The cobra-kisser leans in and makes his move Are these coincidences? This is the question I put to a Thai journalist named Veeraphon Nidibrapha. She said, “You Westerners destroy so much with that word. Everything that cannot be explained you call a ‘coincidence.’” ON THE ROAD TO EXTINCTION Bulleting down the highway in a fossil-fuelled car, we spotted model after life-sized model of dinosaurs in front of hospitals, beside banks, hovering above traffic islands. These statues are primers for the museum and the park. The centrepiece of the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum is the metal skeleton of a Siamotyrannus isanensis. Unearthed in 1976, this 15-metre-long monster was the first of its genus and species to be discovered. It is a forebear of the much bigger Tyrannosaurus Rex. Off to one side of the museum is a kind of Jurassic Park filled with built-to-scale dinosaurs, baring sabre-sized teeth, amid jungles of foliage. As the museum illustrates, Thailand’s stomping ground for dinosaurs was this part of the northeast. Other species, like the Phuwiangosuarus sirinhornae (named after Her Royal Highness Princess Chakri Sirindhorn) and the Siamosaurus suteehorni, were also first discovered in the region. Over in the nearby national park visitors can get down to the bones of these discoveries and see the pits where palaeontologists unearthed them. Many children come to the museum on field trips. Their enthusiasm can brighten the gloomiest of days. Running around screaming or sitting on the wooden walkways of the jungle to sketch pictures, the kids remind us of the creatures’ primeval pull and inspire flashbacks of our 70 | NOVEMBER 2015
youth, from Godzilla movies to building dinosaur models. Kids love monsters. While the boys gravitate towards the bigger beasts, the girls orbit around the cuter creatures, like a massive tortoise in a glass case. Many sea turtles and land tortoises—of which 28 different species are found in Thailand—date back 200 million years. A display in the museum calls this the “Age of Mammals.” Also from that epoch came distant ancestors of elephants, dolphins, rabbits, and snakes. In the museum there is little evidence of humankind. But one drawing on the wall shows a portrait of human evolution, from the naked homo erectus to the Neanderthal carrying a club and wrapped in animal furs, to a pale-skinned Thai woman in a mini-skirt. Compared to the dinosaurs, which survived for tens of millions of years, and all the tortoises and snakes that still thrive, the homo sapien looks frail by comparison, the human race but a blink in eternity’s eye. Since we are now in the midst of the largest mass extinction of species since the age of the dinosaurs some 65 million years ago, amid global warming and rising seas, the park and museum provide the grounds for some serious considerations about an environmental apocalypse on the horizon that are not your typically escapist travel fare. The provincial capital of Khon Kaen province is the best place to stay. The city boasts the only five-star hotel in the region, the Sofitel Raja Orchid, as well as a range of budget accommodation. The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s office at 15/5 Prachasamosorn Rd (0 4323 6634) has free maps and brochures on all the province’s reptilian attractions. If you leave the town by mid-morning, you can see these three attractions in a day.
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Mucalinda, the Serpent King, flickers its tongues at Sala Kaew Ku, one of Nong Khai’s star attractions
upcountry escape
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Nong Khai Nirvana Shamans, Sculpt ures, and Serene Sacre d Sit es on the Thai-La os Border WORDS BY CRAIG SAUERS – PHOTOS BY MEGAN FERRERA
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ifty years ago, Boun Leua Sourirat fell into a hole in the ground in the Lao woodlands. This hole—a cave, in fact—contained a surprise that would forever alter the course of the young wanderer’s life: a hermit named Kaew Ku was living inside of it. Imagine Sourirat’s shock upon tumbling toward oblivion and, when he came to, realizing not only had he avoided injury, he had also landed in the spartan nest of a hirsute, hungry little man. What were the odds this strange forest creature would be a spiritual visionary, that the lessons he shared would re-define life and death for Sourirat? After this chance encounter, Sourirat travelled, studied with a Hindu rishi in Vietnam, and moved down the river to the outskirts of Vientiane, where he set about building a series of elaborate monuments depicting the wheel of life as described by Kaew Ku. But this, the Buddha Park in Laos, was never truly completed. When the Communist Party took power, Sourirat fled under the assumption that his tradition-flouting imagery would draw the ire of officials (the more common Buddhist traditions were tolerated within Communist Laos). So he returned to the safety of his birth place, Nong Khai, and started over again. The rest of his days were dedicated to the construction of Sala Kaew Ku, a sculpture park fashioned from fantasy and named after his ascetic mentor. At Sala Kaew Ku, sculptures stand stories high, surreal silhouettes against a skyline reflecting the artist’s
odd ideology. Mucalinda, the fearsome serpent king, is frozen like a band of cobras with hoods puffed out and tongues flickering violently. Skeletal human figures reach up through the earth, grasping for salvation from the depths of hell. Shiva, Vishnu, and Ganesh stand shoulder-to-shoulder with Buddha, who is depicted in Mahayana and Theravada forms. The unusual figures are a hit with local schoolchildren and travellers with atypical itineraries, but their fame is relative. Like the town of Nong Khai, Sala Kaew Ku exemplifies that tired tourism slogan: Unseen Thailand. As border towns tend to be, Nong Khai is a funny place. Sharing a proximity to Laos, Vietnam, and China, the community has been influenced by a wide variety of peoples and cultures. Food, religion, language, attire, and architecture speak to centuries of coming and going. Vendors at the Tha Sadej market along the riverside promenade, which is also called the Indochina Market, deal cheap goods brought in from abroad—Lao snacks, Vietnamese noodles and silverware, Chinese chintz and faux artefacts. Just outside the market, Dang Namneung, a popular restaurant with an industrial setting, serves authentic Vietnamese food from a vast menu that includes sausages, rolls, and dips. Further down a concrete pedestrian path tracing the river, San Jao Phu Ya, a colourful and immaculately kempt Mahayana Buddhist temple, originally built to cater to the Vietnamese and
Unusual statues depict Hindu-Buddhist iconography
The sunken chedi reborn
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This golden Buddha keeps vigil over trips across the Mekong to and from Laos Chinese populations of Nong Khai, offers sanctuary from the heat and white noise of everyday life. While San Jao Phu Ya just might be the most visually captivating of Nong Khai’s temples, it’s far from the only Buddhist attraction in town. In fact, the province claims to have the most temples per capita of any in Thailand, and they’re all a little different. At Wat Lam Duan, a massive seated Buddha looks over the river toward Laos from an open-air bot, as if mediating safe passage between nations by day and then meditating over the sunset at dusk. Further along the river path is the sunken chedi, or Wat Phra That Khlang Nam. Over 150 years ago, the temple slid into the river. All that remains visible now is the crumbling triangular top of the stupa, but only during dry season, when the river is low. Locals still wrap yellow banners around the pile of rubble in the brown water—that is, when they can reach it. A replica of the original temple occupies its former place on the riverbanks. The holiest temple in town sits a little further back from these attractions. Wat Pho Chai, a couple of blocks inland, houses a large Buddha image bejewelled in gold, bronze, and rubies. Named Luang Po Phra Sai, the image has a history that dates back to the Lan Xang era in Laos. When Vientiane was pillaged in the 18th century, King Rama I’s troops took three Buddha images as part of their bounty. In the return trip, a storm sent one to the bottom of the Mekong, where it was left to appease the resident naga. The second travelled to Wat Pathum Wanaram in Bangkok. But the third Buddha image with a head made of gold only made it as far as Nong Khai, where the cart carrying it broke down, a sign that religious leaders took to mean it wanted to stay there. The figure itself is said to be 74 | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5
the bearer of good fortune, so the temple gets lots of foot traffic from travelling Thai Buddhists. Religion, tradition, and the river are woven into the fabric of society in Nong Khai. Often times, those three strands overlap. During Wan Ok Phansa, the naga believed to be living in the Mekong is said to spit fireballs into the night sky, an annual event called bung fai paya nak. Thousands of Thai and Lao Buddhists gather around the river to watch the lazy light climb into the air, as much a testament to the power of mysticism in Southeast Asia as it is the allure of the inscrutable phenomenon. Each year, the Chinese community parades vibrant dragon puppets through town. Many locals don white face paint to resemble spirits, and others wear lion costumes. As is the case during most Chinese holidays, especially Chinese New Year, fireworks crackle and pop in the streets, and local players take part in dramas, songs, and dances. These sorts of festivities also occur during the annual dragon boat races, as teams of mostly fit men race long traditional rowboats down the Mekong. In the age of guidebook travel and rapid transit, this sabai-sabai settlement has become an afterthought. Border towns are transitory places, so it isn’t much of a surprise that Nong Khai is a stop-over for visa-runners and long-term travellers heading to or from Vientiane. But the very dynamic that has kept the town from becoming a tourist hub has also helped preserve its heritage. Thai, Lao, mystics, and marauders, the tale of Nong Khai is rich with eccentric characters and curious twists of fate, from the extraordinary chance of its foundation to its present state of unruffled existence. While the wheel of life turns elsewhere, this town seems to have found its nirvana. bangkok101.com
The Teak Museum in Phrae invities visitors to relive a chapter of the town’s historic industry
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PHR AE’S TEAKWOOD
TREASURES BY LUC CITRINOT
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abitually, unfairly, Thai travellers set their sights on nearby Nan. Their foreign counterparts, if they stop at all, swing through Lampang or Lamphun on their way to Chiang Mai. However, the small city of Phrae, with a mere 18 thousand inhabitants, is one of the most fascinating cities in Northern Thailand, blessed with a colourful history, and not to mention one of the best preserved heritages in the country. Once upon a time, Phrae was the teakwood capital of the world. The industry got unofficial start in 1840, when officials from Siam wrote to the royal administration in Bangkok, telling of local rulers in Chiang Mai and Lampang who were selling teak to British, Burmese, and Mon traders. They were soon to be joined by large, well-organized companies, such as the East Borneo Company, the first to trade in Phrae in 1864. To control the booming demand, Siam and Britain signed the Chiang Mai agreement in 1874 to control concessions in the North. The agreement benefited Great Britian, in particular: the signature of the Bowring Treaty in 1883 gave extra territorial rights to British companies in Siam. Phrae became the last frontier of the British timber industry. Over the next 50 years, wood concessions were exploited mostly by the East Borneo Company, the Bombay Burmah Trading Company, and later the Louis T. Leonowens Company. In 1897, a concession was given to Captain Hans Niels Andersen, founder of Phrae’s largest wood concession on the left side of the Yom River. The East Asiatic Company is still in town today, but it has been converted into a forestry school and technical college. A wooden bungalow sitting on top of a hill, surrounded by gardens, is a relic of the company’s domineering presence. Formerly a club for employees, the bungalow features simple architecture similar to European wooden houses seen on Borneo. The director’s house and the administrative building have been turned into the Phrae Forestry and Teak Museum. A bit run-down, the museum contains many old pictures of Phrae during the teakwood boom, as well as a collection of 100-year old teak pieces. It’s all a fitting transformation for the company, from treeplunderer to preserver. bangkok101.com
Beyond these buildings, remnants of the teak boom remain spread out across Phrae. And they take spectacular forms in some cases, with beautiful mansions representing what’s known as the “gingerbread” style for their uncanny similarities to the Christmastime treats. There are two dozen gingerbread houses in town. One of the most striking is the Vichai Racha House, which stands empty, but is nevertheless open to the public. Ban Wongburi, still owned by the same noble family, has been turned into a charming museum. Khum Chao Luang, the residence of Prince Piriyatheppawong, the former ruler of Phrae, built in 1892 in a blend of European and Thai styles, has been entirely preserved. Today, it’s a public museum, offering free entrance to all visitors.
Phrae Khum Chao Luang Museum is found at the city park, in the centre of Phrae. It’s open each day from 8.30am until 5pm, and admission is free. Ban Wongburi is at 50 Kham Leu Road. It’s opene ach day from 9am until 5pm, and admission costs B50. The Teak Museum occupies grounds at the local technical college. It’s open from Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 6pm. Call ahead at 0 5451 1048.
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making merit
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making merit
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The Karen Hilltribes Trust Conne cting Cult ures and Building a Bet t er Fut ure
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n 1990, a young Richard Worsley travelled to the forested fringes of northern Thailand. The 19-year-old Briton volunteered his services to the Karen people, teaching English and installing clean water systems. He stayed six months. Though brief, the experience left a profound impact on Richard. Once home, he urged his mother, Penelope, to someday offer a hand to the Karen people, as well. Richard died in a car accident in Germany in 1996. Three months after his death, the Karen people dedicated a water system to him in Huay Kong Po, a village of 200 near the border with Myanmar. According to Karen folklore, “Good men don’t die. They stay in the stars to guide us.” Whether one puts stock in mythology is beside the point: long after his passing, Richard continues to influence the Karen villages of northern Thailand. Penelope finally visited the region in 1999. Almost immediately she felt the same warmth and gratitude of the locals that had so greatly inspired her son. After meeting Salahae, a community leader who had worked with Richard, Penelope discovered the two shared a vision. With the help of a fundraiser in the UK, the Karen Hilltribes Trust—or KHT—was set up in Richard’s memory in 1999. Since then, More than 500 volunteers have followed in his footsteps, working on projects geared toward the sustainable development and well-being of S’gaw Karen communities in Mae Hong Son. The KHT is now led by a former volunteer, William Harden, who works with Salahae and a team of Karen staff in Thailand. Distinguishing this non-profit from others in the region is its tight relationships with local communities. In order to affect lasting change, the KHT sets up projects designed and run by the local Karen. Volunteers are sent from the UK to help carry them out by working on construction projects and teaching English. The goals of the KHT are based on three pillars: improving health, increasing access to education, and securing better livelihoods. To date, the KHT has helped to bangkok101.com
provide clean water for 50,000 people—and this where 40 per cent of the province lacks a supply of clean drinking water and no adequate methods of waste disposal. In fact, since the first clean water system was installed in Huay Kong Po, there have been few, if any, signs of malaria, a disease still highly prevalent in hilltribe villages. The KHT has also delivered 30,000 blankets and 40,000 mosquito nets, irrigated 5,600 rai of farmland, and ensured that 767 children can travel to school each day. By giving financial support for the purchase and use of 23 school buses, improving dormitory facilities at schools, and providing meals for those unable to afford them, more and more children in remote areas now enjoy access to primary and secondary education. In tandem with other local trusts, the KHT has also provided scholarships for universities and continued higher education. Currently, two-thirds of Karen farmers live below the poverty line, an unsustainable figure by any measure. Much of this is due to poor irrigation systems. While the KHT has helped to construct water systems that can withstand even the most disastrous floods, part of its programme sees education as a means of selfimprovement, a key to unlocking new opportunities to make a living. In effect, the KHT helps the Karen from a variety of angles, and all thanks to their bond with the communities—one forged and felt by Richard Worsley decades ago and carried on in his absence. How to Get Involved The Karen Hilltribes Trust partners with trusts, foundations, and community groups in Bangkok. It is a registered Thai foundation, so donations can be received in Bangkok. The KHT urgently seeks new contacts to aid its work. Get in touch by email at enquiries@ karenhilltribes.org.uk. To find out more about the group or donate, please visit karenhilltribes.org.uk.
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THRESHOLD PART 3 Bridge Art Space is still riding the buzz that followed its launch in 2014. But now, one year later, the venue is no longer a fresh face on the scene. Through projects like its Threshold series, Bridge has added a welcome wrinkle to Bangkok’s art world. This month, it celebrates its first anniversary with a continuation of Threshold that draws on fellow curators to cull the work of top international artists. Studying the spaces between places and states—both the physical and the metaphysical—through the lens of digital artists and photographers, the latest Threshold exhibition gathered curators who inspired Bridge’s Dan Burman in the first place. Involved are Myrtille Tybarenc of the nomadic Toot Yung Art Space and Brian Curtin of H Gallery. The collaboration further cements the bond between figures in Bangkok’s art world, celebrating the rise of a gallery while rallying around provocative art. Tybarenc has curated the work of Skall, the French artist, active since the 1980s, whose self-portraits fuse the natural and artificial worlds. Curtin presents the work of Dhanainun Dhanarachwattana, whose photographs of Bangkok and its outskirts float between social commentary, shots of personal significance, and art for the sake of beauty. From Burman comes a medley of artwork from Sabato Visconti, Esra Kalk, Jessica Ta, Chris Clarke, and Jay Curtis. Threshold Pt. 3 launched in October with a sight-and-sound performance by Thai artist Liew Niyomkarn. The exhibition runs until November 30 at Bridge Art Space.
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exhibitions
WENSEN QI SOLO EXHIBITION
YENAKART VILLA 69 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd I 0 2235 9800 I by appointment yenakartvilla.com
Until November 15 Better known by his adoptive Chinese name Wensen Qi, French artist Vincent Cazeneuve has spent over a decade in China refining his interpretation of traditional lacquer painting. Melding ancient techniques with modern Western influences, such as 20th century abstraction, the artist has earned recognition worldwide. He will also exhibit works on silk and paper at this appointment-only gallery.
DISPARITY
THAVIBU GALLERY F4, Jewelry Trade Center, Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd | 0 2266 5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | thavibu.com
Until November 21 Jirapat Tasanasomboon’s early pop-style paintings pitted Thai mythological figures against American comic book heroes. A regular contributor to Thavibu, the Chiang-Mai based artist sourced from the Ramakien for his latest series of dramatic one-on-one bouts, metaphors for the East-West dynamic. His more recent subjects have taken on issues of control and order, sufficiency, and military influence, with these latest works alluding to the current political situation.
INSTITUTE OF INTIMATE MUSEUMS
LA LANTA FINE ART 245/14 Soi 31 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2260 5381, 0 2204 0583 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment | lalanta.com
Until November 25 Japanese installation artist Kenji Sugiyama shrinks the art world into pasta packaged dioramas. At a distance, the exhibition contains a display of commercial packaged pasta boxes, strange eyeballs, and few tall boxes. Upon closer inspection, an intimate universe is revealed. Inside unassuming pasta boxes and the centre of the eyeballs are tiny museums full of art lovers looking at shrunken art. From this perspective, viewers question how they see things, how they remember the experience.
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exhibitions
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DON’T FALL IN LOVE WITH ME KOI ART GALLERY 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2662 3218 | 10am-7pm koiartgallerybangkok.com
Until November 29 It’s all about love in the latest solo exhibition by Thai artist Kowit Wattanarach, showcasing playful portraits that tug at heart strings. The beautiful figures in the portraits tell a tale of caution. The way a woman looks—her painted lips, glowing eyes, or dimpled cheeks—cautions the beginning of a game of love; if viewers come too close, or linger too long, they may fall into the trap, giddiness giving way to infatuation, and infatuation, perhaps, leading to ruin.
THE LAND
ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd | 0 2422 2092 | Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
Until November 29 Japanese landscapes and heritage feature largely in Kansuke Morioka’s silkscreen prints. These works represent the scenery of Kumano, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes in Japan listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Images of a small boat sailing on the vast sea, icebergs, islets, mountains, forests, temples, shrines, and the moon shining in the sky are all symbols of the sacred journey, as well as cornerstones of the faith kept strong by the Japanese of centuries past.
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Finished Fibres Textiles Woven by Kachama’s Heartstrings Arrive at Tamarind Village
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interview
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n her Chiang Mai studio, Thai designer Kachama K. Perez weaves intricate textiles by hand in a style developed over years spent studying with hilltribe and minority communities. Her tapestries have received wide critical acclaim and are sold in shops around the world. As part of her outspoken support of textiles as a fine art medium, Kachama has displayed her work in galleries across Thailand. Her latest exhibition, “Songs of My Soul,” will be on display at Tamarind Village Chiang Mai from November 20. Here, she talks with Bangkok 101 about her work and inspiration. What got you started with upcycling and incorporating found products into your tapestries? A trip to the sea influenced concepts I later labelled “Tears of the Sea” and “Trash/Recycle.” I use traditional methods by preference to express my passion for textiles made from natural fibres. But as any contemporary artist of his/her time will tell you, I love to explore new fields of expression. By blending traditional and contemporary elements, I can do that. The result sometimes is surprisingly good—like when I weave silk and plastic into décor (furniture) and accessories (bags). Which hill tribe communities does your work represent? How long were you learning from them? I spent two intermittent years with the Karen, Hmong, Lahu, and Yao, where I picked up a lot of their styles and techniques. In my work, I’ve used traditional costumes and fabrics from hilltribes in Thailand, Laos, Burma, and Nagaland, as well as a few from China. I created one line called “Keeping Lanna Heritage and Hill Tribe Culture Alive” in which I incorporated all those original textiles. Where does Thai craft stand both locally and on the global stage? The art and design scenes have been booming for the last ten years, but sadly they still remain very selective, elitist, bangkok101.com
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and exclusive here in our beautiful country. Craft, wherever it comes from, is the imprint of a nation, [one] that other nations will always recognize as genuine and authentic. So craft will always put a particular culture, like ours, in the centre of stage for all to view and absorb. For every old tradition we keep alive, there are countless others we lose in the passage of time. Is there a sense of maintenance in carrying on the tradition Thai craftwork? It’s sad that many traditions are forgotten, but at the same time many are often re-interpreted in modern ways. This can help keep the old ways of doing things alive in some semblance. For me, for sure, there is a will to keep certain traditions alive, but I’m afraid many will ineluctably fade away, as less and less of our younger generations care to learn about the old ways of doing things. What are your favourite materials to work with? What are your dyes made from? Natural fibres are my favourite, but I also enjoy the look and feel of antique fabrics. Pearls, rare beads, old Roman glass, semi-precious stones, straw—I love to mix things together. I incorporate lots of natural materials, such as leaves, barks, seeds, and flowers, into my textiles. And I mostly use vegetable dyes, although I’ve also used mineral dyes when the opportunity has arisen. How is a humble tradition like weaving compatible with fine art? Is this a modern relationship? Yes and no—the correct answer would take too long to answer here. Weaving and fine art have always been compatible. Tapestries that have been found in Greece, Egypt, and Persia are thousands of years old, but to really appreciate high craftsmanship you have to look at the tapestries made in Europe during the 16th to 18th centuries. My wish is that weaving will be considered fine art long into the future. And it will be, as long as there are people who still learn the old ways. NOVEMBER 2015 | 85
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interview
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Everything is Illuminated Matteo Messervy Lights up the French Embassy as Part of its Galleries’ Night BY LUC CITRINOT
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master of light architecture and design, the French artist Matteo Messervy is perhaps best known for his large-scale light installations. He will unveil his latest masterpiece at the opening gala of this year’s Galleries’ Night, held at the French Embassy on November 27. Messervy’s grand floodlighting, produced by the French Embassy and installed with the support of Philips Thailand, will transform the Embassy façade throughout the remarkable COP 21, the upcoming Paris Climate Conference to which Galleries’ Night is linked. Messervy recently shed light on his project in an exclusive interview with Bangkok 101. In the last 15 years, light sculpture and architecture has transformed cities around the world, often highlighting heritage or helping to create a new urban identity. From Tokyo to Lyon (where the Festival of Lights has been turned into a world event), from Shanghai to New York, light is a central part of the urban experience, instilling the same sense of enchantment that children might feel when watching fireworks burst and bloom in the sky or a giant Christmas tree flicker to life in a city square. Bangkok is also embracing the idea of light being the focus of a show. “We’ve been working on creating an ephemeral lighting installation in Bangkok for a while now, but the project was been postponed time and again. The COP 21 summit and Galleries’ Night occurring at the same time really gave us the right opportunity to create an event of exception,” says Messervy. bangkok101.com
“Light is not just about brightening dark spaces—it has a far more important meaning to humans. It can heal, it can transcend life,” Messervy declares. “Light is a way to reach people, to bridge the gap between urban life, the environment, and the human being. I see my job as being like a ‘bond-maker’ with light being the main element.” The Paris Climate Conference COP 21 takes place from November 30 to December 11, providing a prime opportunity to add an environmental dimension to the Galleries’ Night event, organized by the French Embassy. Messervy’s lighting effects will project videos of nature on the French Embassy’s striking white frontage. “We’ll screen videos of water, trees, skies—all this pure nature that urban dwellers are dreaming of—all over the Embassy’s 1000-square-metre façade. This will certainly create an exceptional experience, especially in an area of low-rise constructions that are rather dark at night,” says Messervy. The projection will be animated by impulses that simulate heartbeats. This, according to the artist, will stress the idea that humans are bound to nature, that natural movements are the sources of life. The lighting effects will last throughout the 12 days of the COP 21 summit. Messervy believes the installation will provide lasting memories for locals and visitors alike, “especially as we want to deliver a positive message about our environment, rather than the usual catastrophic warning,” he explains. “We want to say, ‘This is what we still have today. Please, protect and nurture it.’” NOVEMBER 2015 | 87
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cheat notes
DREAM CEMETERY
An Acclaimed Thai Director Finally Reveals his Latest Project
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hen director Apichatpong Weerasethakul announced work on a new project, information trickled out slowly. On his website, Kick the Machine, Weerasethakul offered snippets of information that were nothing short of cryptic. The movie would be called Rak Ti Khon Kaen (“I love you, Khon Kaen”). Little else was known, even of the storyline, until later in 2015, when a trailer suddenly appeared. In it, an acoustic guitar strums a simple melody as a man, unconscious and connected to a breathing apparatus in a wooden house, comes into focus. The camera cuts to other men felled by sleep, to some lazy, sunny-day pastoral scenes, and back to the hospital. At this point, Cemetery of Splendour crops up on the screen in slender white typeface. Though gleaning meaning from this minute of film is an impossible task, the finished product just might be the director’s most successful yet. Cemetery of Splendour follows in the tracks of Weerasethakul’s acclaimed Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives, the first Thai movie to win the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival. Shot in 16mm film, the latter relied on brooding, languorous action to convey the ethereal and spiritual elements that so often define life in Thailand. His latest work, which also experiments with shooting and lighting techniques, examines the power of memory, spirituality, and experience. The foundation beneath the narrative, however, was built from the director’s personal history. “My parents were doctors and we lived in one of the hospital housing units,” says the director, born and raised in Khon Kaen, who describes the film as a portrait
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of places that have latched onto him like parasites. “My world was the patients’ ward where my mother worked, our wood house, a school, and a cinema. The film is a merging of these places.” The story centres on soldiers who suffer from a mysterious sleeping sickness and are transferred to a temporary clinic in a former school. (This was embellished from real-life events; a few years ago, about 40 soldiers in the Northeast were bedridden as a result of an unknown illness.) While watching over the soldiers, a volunteer caretaker named Jenjira becomes fixated with one in particular, Itt, a solitary man who never receives a visitor and keeps a notebook full of strange blueprints and messages by his bed. As the plot winds on, the soldiers begin to receive light therapy treatment and spirits appear before them, blurring the line between reality and illusion. Jenjira dives into the mystery, trying to decipher Itt’s notebook, in the process unlocking a world of memories in the state beyond sleep and wakefulness. It’s a tender story of dreams, love, and magic. It also touches on the safety and solitude of sleep, which, like a book or movie, provides an escape from socio-political problems. While the action is slow-moving, and the narrative might be difficult to decode, the storyline is pensive and rich, and the use of light lends a dreamlike quality to the overall production. Still, the movie’s success does not rely on aesthetics alone—Cemetery of Splendour might speak more about the current mentality of Thai people than any other film created by Weerasethakul. Its greatest strength is that it serves as a lens through which to view one’s identity in the grinding politics of Thai society. bangkok101.com
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art & culture photofeature
Snapping around chiang mai A DAY OF PHOTOGRAPHY WITH ALAN MCARTHUR
It’s like spending the day with a good friend, one who just so happens to live in Chiang Mai. This friend also takes great photographs. In fact, he was named the TimeOut (UK) Travel Photographer of the Year in 1997. Plus, he loves riding his bicycle, leans toward the mindful Buddhist way, and has a wonderful sense of humour and a roving spirit. A Day of Photography with Alan McArthur is a day for all lovers of photography, for all ages and cameras. But it’s not a tour—it’s a bridge to getting to know less while understanding more. McArthur has been based in Chiang Mai for nearly 18 years, and is as young as that age at heart, something he credits the locals for (he can joke in five languages, Thai being his favourite). He was born in Scotland, but also grew up in Quebec and Cambridge. Since then, he
has made homes in Sicily, Morocco, Cape Town, and Venice Beach—and in each of these places he has days of photography, too. Having survived an early adult battle with leukaemia, the affable photographer has devoted his days to spreading cheer and teaching others how to soak up every waking moment. Believing his secret to capturing the human element lies in the time he devotes to his subjects, McArthur has ensured A Day of Photography is a communityminded project aimed at giving back. All the people he and his groups meet during the day—“the players in this theatre called the world,” he says—get copies of the portraits taken of them. This isn’t a safari, as photo tours often become, but rather a series of intimate street life portraits that help photographers of all levels understand
their cameras better and, more importantly, discover what makes a great image. Add to that a little fine art, architecture, and some guerrilla photography, and you have the recipe for a great day out. But the days are spent doing more than just improving how you capture life in the lens. The trips around town are done the eco-friendly way—by bicycle—and are filled with insights for the stomach and soul. McArthur takes guests and groups out to eat at local spots only. “If you’re vegetarian,” he declares, “even better, because Chiang Mai is the best place for northern Thai vegetarian food.” Those who wish to experience this unique approach to exploring culture should contact McArthur (who prefers to be called Alan) directly via Facebook.com/ ChiangMaiADayofPhotography or quirkysnapper@gmail.
com. He tweaks and tailors itineraries for every group or guest, and he even offers internships for those sticking around town a while. Though not a school—“Chiang Mai is the school. Our workshops are out and about.”—A Day of Photography nevertheless offers invaluable lessons with a holistic point of view. McArthur bases programmes on several topics: street life portraiture, portraiture with flash, travel, fine art and still life, architecture, landscapes, photography for English language learners, and photography for kids. Above all, A Day of Photography teaches the joys of interaction and self-discovery through photography. “Reality really is just a state of mind,” says McArthur, and that, unconditionally, more clearly than any other idiom, sets the tone for the perfect day in Chiang Mai.
THE UNDERWATER BOUNTY AT SEASONAL TASTES, SEE P104
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AROY MÜNCHEN MANIA
Oktoberfest rolls right along at Bei Otto from November 5-8, which, although held after than the festival in Germany has already ended, is nevertheless an occasion to celebrate. Whet the palate with litres of beer and an endless array of German dishes. Beyond the beer, which will be copious, flowing, and poured in very large mugs, this annual party will again feature a live band from Munich. Expect lots of eating, drinking, and dancing. For details about the event, visit beiotto.com.
KOKMEIJER COMES TO TOWN
From November 17-21, Chef Onno Kokmeijer from Ciel Bleu at The Hotel Okura Amsterdam, one of Europe’s most famous dining establishments and owner of two Michelin stars, visits Elements at The Okura Prestige Bangkok. His six-course set dinner menu, priced at B5600++, offers courses featuring tom yam Ciel Bleu-style, king crab, langoustine, sole, and Wagyu, reflecting his reputation for combining different tastes and flavours using high-quality local ingredients. The three-course set lunch also features tom yam, king crab, and Wagyu and is priced at B3200++. For more details and to make a reservation, call 0 2687 9000 or email elements@okurabangkok.com.
LEGENDARY LOY KRATHONG
On November 25, join the Loy Krathong celebrations at Millennium Hilton Bangkok. Enjoy a feast of flavours at FLOW, whose buffet will be beefed up with a special cheese room, traditional performances, and fireworks (B4200; half-price for children aged 6-12). Or pick up a personal picnic hamper of sashimi, foie gras, fresh seafood, pasta, and dessert (B4000 per couple; B6000 with a bottle of Chandon Brut). At the rooftop ThreeSixty Jazz Lounge, watch the fireworks over dinner with a complimentary bottle of Chandon Brut (B6000 per couple). Any diner who dresses in traditional Thai attire and tags Millennium Hilton Bangkok on Facebook or Instagram will receive a voucher offering 50 per cent offer at Sunday brunch. For more information, call 0 2442 2000.
TWO TREATS AT THE TOWERS
Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers plays host to a couple of festivals this month. On November 25, from 6pm until 11pm, celebrate Loy Krathong at the riverside terrace, with a fantastic selection of food and entertainment that includes classical Thai dance and music. Tickets cost B4500++ per adult and B2250++ per child, inclusive of an international buffet, a BBQ dinner, and a krathong. On November 26, swing by for American Thanksgiving at Feast, enjoying dishes like turkey with celery sausage stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie, all on top of the usual buffet offerings. The buffet lunch runs from noon until 2.30pm (B790++) and the buffet dinner from 6pm until 10pm (B1090++). Kids aged 3-12 eat for half the price and Starwood Preferred Guests get 15 per cent off food. Call 0 2266 9214 or e-mail events.rosh@sheraton.com to make a reservation.
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meal deals BENTO BUSINESS AT HAGI CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO BANGKOK 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | 0 2541 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com Hagi presents a new set lunch and bento set featuring 12 top Japanese dishes, priced from B550++ to B900++. The set lunch offers depth of variety, with dishes like fried Kurobuta pork with ginger soy sauce, broiled miso-marinated snow fish, and Australian Wagyu teppanyaki. All sets are served with assorted sashimi, kobachi, Japanese rice, Japanese pickles, and miso soup, as well as a fruit plate or ice cream. The bento set includes a sushi and sashimi bento and a teppanyaki seafood bento.
EXECUTIVE LUNCH AT THE CAPITAL THE CAPITAL BY WATER LIBRARY 3F, Empire Tower, South Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 9548 | waterlibrary.com The Capital by Water Library has launched a two-course business lunch set menu for only B490++. This quaint steak and seafood grill offers high-quality meat selections from around the world, fresh seafood, and an eclectic range of wines, martinis, and craft beer perfect for any occasion. The set menu includes tea or coffee and is available from Monday to Saturday from 11.30am until 2.30pm.
ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT SURF & TURF MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS SATHORN VISTA Sathorn Soi 3 | 0 2343 6789 | marriottsathornvista.com Every Thursday to Saturday from 6pm until 10pm, MoMo Café invites you to pick your perfect combination of surf and turf, with unlimited selections, starting at B599 per person. The promotion features special choices of fresh seafood and mouth-watering meat dishes, like roasted Wagyu, seared Tasmanian salmon, roasted soya-marinated lamb cutlet, and Hawaiian pork chops.
DEBUT DISHES AT SAFFRON BANYAN TREE BANGKOK 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com Located on the 52nd floor of the Banyan Tree, Saffron boasts sublime views of Bangkok. This month, add a new tempting Thai menu to the list of reasons to visit. The menu features innovative touches while retaining the authenticity of Thai flavours. Chef Renu’s creations include fried blue crab claw, southern salty egg and floppy snapper, river prawns, and a young lemongrass salad.
A BOUNTIFUL BUFFET LE MÉRIDIEN BANGKOK 40/5 Surawong Rd | 0 2232 8888 | lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com Enjoy a full spread at Latest Recipe, where a lunch or dinner buffet costs only B995++ per person. Chef Markus Rotard has crafted dishes for the health-conscious to add to the veritable smorgasbord of fresh options, including blue crab, Australian beef, homemade pizza and pasta, and a variety of desserts. Free flow water and soft drinks, as well as a cup of coffee or tea, are included.
REELING IT IN AT ESPRESSO INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK 973 Phloen Chit Rd | 0 2656 0444 ext. 6430 | bangkok.intercontinental.com Espresso’s “Catch of the Day” beefs up the already substantial buffet offerings with a range of fresh seafood selections from the world’s richest waters. Options include red snapper, sea bass, river prawns, and mussels, each cooked with a choice of delicious sauces. Fish can be served in a sukiyaki broth with vegetables, or perhaps poached in an aromatic Thai broth and served with spicy seafood sauce—the choice is yours. The promotion is available from Sunday to Thursday throughout November, starting at B1259++ per person. 100 | NOV EMBER 2015
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SENSI - In the Mood for Love How does a restaurant become romantic? After all, the primary function of dining out is to sit before a table and fill our bellies. That humans make an elevated art of this is perhaps what most separates us from the apes. And Sensi, a gem hiding in the leafy back alleys of Narathiwas, is no place for apes. A large, high-ceilinged house done up in dimmed lighting and off-maroon colours, filled with bright contemporary art and overlooking a garden, this might be the perfect place for one those special coupling occasions—and it’s Italian to boot. Romance here has nothing to do with strumming mandolins or kitschy “O Solo Mio” crooning. Likewise, there’s nothing stale about the culinary creations of Chef Christian Martena, formerly of Opus, who, after a stint in Dubai, returned to Bangkok with his lovely wife Clara, who serves as Sensi’s most charming maître d’. Though Martena originally hails from southern Puglia, his food, like his biography, has travelled far beyond the region’s traditionally heavy, tomato-based fare. In fact, most of the dishes upon which he puts his modernist spin are staples of the Italian North: vitello tonnato, pumpkin ravioli, and so on. Served mostly on small, flat black platters, they’re like Joan Miro paintings, strewn with pretty arcs of ground almonds, dried berries, and sauces. Though there are extensive a la carte choices, most 102 | NOV EMBER 2015
diners are urged to try the tasting menu (five courses B1899; eight courses B2690). This selection shows that modern Italian need not be immune to the ingenuity of the molecular approach. The tri-partite flavours of Caprese salad—tomato, basil, straciatella in place of mozzarella— unite in a single cup of “cappuccino.” Tired of the same old carbonara? Here, there’s no pasta, just a whipped egg in its shell with proper pancetta and gruyere undertones. A veal roast is really veal and done in delectable tidbits. Risotto is boiled to the perfect bite, purposely overdrenched in red wine and finished with a single standing spear of Italian sausage. The wines and desserts are equally well-matched; even the grissini are lighter, halfsliced sticks. It’s the sort of delightfully delicate cooking that led to Chef Martena being summoned to the palace to prepare food for HRH Queen Sirikit. Best of all, the passion which ends up on the plate begins with the partnership of husband and wife, who are not only devoted to their restaurant, but also to one another, and are more than eager to welcome guests into the romance.
SENSI 1040 Naradhiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5 | 0 2676 4466 sensibangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
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LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA - Where Tradition Meets Imagination Glass doors swing open and lead into acid jazz. Inside La Bottega di Luca, a seven-year veteran of Bangkok’s increasingly fine-tuned Italian fine dining scene, lounging in the back of the second floor at Terrace 49, an open-air community mall astride the line between Thong Lo and Phrom Pong, the soundtrack practically broadcasts romance. Knives being sharpened break the rhythm of high hats. Pans hissing on the stovetop ride a four-four glide. A cork stopper pops. Quiet chatter builds. Within minutes—preferably after a glass of cold cuvée brut arrives at the table—the mood is already set. The extremely likeable Luca Appino, chef and owner of this slick indoor-outdoor eatery, has made an indelible mark on the way Bangkok understands and interacts with Italian food. The format here is equal parts black and tan, wood and leather, amber track lighting and the glow of the moon. Bright oils from Living Art Galleria D’Arte decorate the walls, the kind of paint-chucked-at-canvas abstracts that could distinguish even the starkest spaces (they’re all for sale, too). Born and raised in Piedmont, but having worked in kitchens across the Mediterranean, Luca relies on rustic tastes he recalls from his childhood for the foundation of dishes and sprinkles them with foreign notes he picked up in his travelling years. In light of recent trends—the caprese now out of fashion—starting with Luca’s decadent Puglia burrata cheese, surrounded bangkok101.com
by prosciutto di Parma and sweet basil-laden cherry tomatoes (B1450/1650), makes for a wise first move in a journey through his native Italy. A grouper carpaccio eases the transition to hardier tastes (B580). Perhaps the most famous of Luca’s signature dishes is his heart-melting black truffle-, Parmesan-, and pancettaenriched risotto (B590). All the right earthy undertones work as a vessel sending diners to the comfort of a home in the Italian countryside they never knew they had. The same effect comes through in a plate of red prawn with Sicilian capelli, but this time the brine of the sea beneath succulent tomato sauce and sweet fresh wheat transports the palate to the Mediterranean (B1510). The logical next step points to roasted rack of lamb with a pistachio crust and fragrant wine-and-shallot sauce (B1240). Or, perhaps, grilled langoustine served with a salad coated in butter, the perfect complement to smoky crustaceans. Round it all out with red wine from Piedmont and the exploration is complete. In this context, traditional Italian fare is easy to appreciate—and it’s also clear to see why Luca is so well-liked.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA Terrace 49, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 | labottega.name Mon 5.30-11pm, Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm
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SEASONAL TASTES - From the Sea to the Ceramic Plate Perched above Asoke, Seasonal Tastes continues to add new items to its creative kitchen and widely popular buffet. Recently, the restaurant has launched a new dining concept available from 6pm–10.30pm. The European fish and oyster market lets seafood lovers indulge in fresh, premium subaquatic specialties prepared by Chef Jerome Chautard at a tableside cooking station. Light wood flooring and dim lighting suffuse the room with a sensual amber ambiance, but loosely set white and green furniture provide contrast with a subtle hint of the seaside. Adding to the theme, lighthouse models are set on both dining tables and cooking stations while an eyecatching anchor hangs on a pillar next to the s-shaped seafood station, where a variety of fresh crustaceans are placed on ice. As a more obvious touch, a fish station at the entrance trumpets the arrival of the fish market. The dinner menu offers extensive a la carte dishes made with your choice of fish—Dover sole, turbot, sea bass, grouper, or sander. Diners have the choice of fillet or whole fish, for those with big cravings. The Westin Royale Platter (B6290) is a “best of shellfish” special, including cockles, clams, sea snails, and mussels. The other platter in the set serves such sea creatures as langoustines, grey shrimp, Alaskan king crab, and brown crab with thermidor sauce, the meat stuffed in 104 | NOV EMBER 2015
the shell and finished au gratin. The platter is accompanied by bread and butter, aioli, shallot vinegar, mayonnaise, and spicy Thai sauce. Four not-to-miss features come by way of the “Chef Recommends” menu. Try roasted Emperor fish with lemon (B1090). The whole fish is prepared in the open kitchen and served with tzatziki, cucumber, and diced fresh tomatoes. If you find it hard to decide, the Deep Blue Set Menu (B1050) has you covered with a range of highlights. The set menu is offered at B1050 or B1600 and includes two glasses of wine. Four oysters—two Marennes Oléron and two Belon Saint Kerber—are served on ice with condiments and sauce. The main dish, a creamy waterzooi, is stewed with langoustine, monk fish, and rock lobster. The sweetness of fresh seafood contrasts the hearty stew—a stew thankfully served with bread to mop up the deeply flavoured broth. Dessert rounds it all out with a warm rhubarb crumble served with yoghurt ice cream. Variety is the name of the game here. A la carte choices remain options while the seafood special throws a changeup in the regular lineup. It’s a win-win scenario.
SEASONAL TASTES The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, Sukhumvit 19 0 2207 8120 | westingrandesukhumvit.com | daily 6am-11pm
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ENOTECA INIMITABLE ITALIAN
the only real italian gourmet restaurant Historic Italian Family Italian Chef de Cuisine from a Michelin-starred restaurant Italian Sommelier Our philosophy: slow food = sweet life
Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok I T. 02 258 4386 I F. 02259 9175
www.enotecabangkok.com
EnotecaBangkok
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THE GIRL AND THE PIG - Reasons to Believe in Fairytales The top floor of sleek shopping mall Central Embassy may just be Bangkok’s best-kept and most delectable secret. From high-end dim sum to ribs, from do-it-yourself Japanese grilling to French pastries, they cover the foodie gamut here, as well as the future of restaurant fare. And no place may be more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme, than the glorified, glamorized coffee shop called The Girl and The Pig. No, this isn’t a place that specializes in pork, as the name has to do with a made-up fairy tale about cross-species cooking and tasting. But to label The Girl and The Pig isn’t that easy. Its menu offerings draw on French, Italian, American, Australian, and even Moroccan influences. Yet the place is all Thai in its playful recombining and generous portions, an instinctive feeling for pretty plating that relies on scrupulously seeking out and showcasing the highest-quality ingredients. Start with a round of foie gras accompanied by a carpeted bed of candied walnuts and subtle squares of homemade jellies (B450); move on to a bouillabaisse that favours mellow brown stock over anything milky, comes with more squid and fish than most main courses do, and adds the extra topping of a saffron aioli (B520); or opt instead for the crab cakes Benedict, a popular item these days at several all-purpose comfort food outlets (B420). 106 | NOV EMBER 2015
Never mind the poached eggs—these rich yet light cakes could stand on their own. And the muffins served on the side are true English muffins, not some soggy substitute. The attention to detail continues through a tenderloin steak topped with a garlic butter in which some 24 herbs have been mixed. The pastas, too, are spot on—one stirs in freshly chopped fennel to set off slices of the finest Ibérico ham (B360). And, of course, the caterings aimed at competing for the local sweet tooth are off the charts. Thick waffles are topped with real blueberries and Madagascar vanilla ice cream (B380); pears are perfectly poached and come with almond crisps and chamomile ice cream (B280). Yes, chamomile ice cream—that is not a misprint. Obviously, if you can find your way to the “unknown” territory of the Embassy’s fifth floor, here is a perfect spot for everything from ample brunches to romantic dates. Don’t be fooled by the menu’s emphasis on waffles, the bake shop offerings in the front, the woodsy décor, and the casual personal service. The Girl and The Pig is no fairy tale. This is serious cooking.
THE GIRL AND THE PIG 5F, Central Embassy | 0 2160 5924 facebook.com/thegirlandthepig | daily 10am-10pm
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THEO MIO - Rustic Italian Recipes from a Star Chef Much has been written about the grinding life of chefs: all those long hours, the pressure to perform, the frenetic testing ground of tight kitchens during dinner rush. But Theo Randall, the calmly measured, carefully groomed chef known mostly for work at the successful River Café, seems to be leading a charmed existence. Calling himself “an Englishman with an Italian soul,” this straying Londoner has constructed a profession that gives him boundless excuses to explore the regions of Italy—its best wines, olive oils, sausages, and cheeses— three or four times a year. In his spare time, he tests out new pasta combos for his keep-it-simple cookbooks. A tough job, but someone’s got to do it. Even putting together specialties in the narrow galleys of the open kitchen at his new Theo Mio, which has taken over Grossi’s ground-floor space at the InterContinental Hotel, this newest of Bangkok’s celebrity chefs hardly breaks a sweat. He deftly uses tongs to pluck fresh-made strands of taglierini from the pot before they’ve gone soft. Next, he drops the noodles into a pan with crab meat and fresh stock, adding starchy pasta water by the spoonful (Taglerini al Granchio: B700 /B1050). “This helps your sauce emulsify. Never drain off your pasta,” he insists, as generous with secrets as he is with Parmigiano. A touch of chilli and lime are added as a concession to Thai palates. But no cheese, thankfully, appears on any of bangkok101.com
Theo Mio’s fish. A deep-fried soft-shell crab and parsley go on top of his instant masterpiece. The food, like the mood of the place, is meant to be fun and light. “The inspiration for the cooking begins with the ingredient,” he declares. This is but one of many lessons he learned during a stint at Chez Panisse, the famed California restaurant that began the trend of emphasizing the origins of their products. As a result, the menu is heavier on seafood than its equivalent in the U.K. He unwraps and shows off a slab of bottarga, the pungent dried fish roe popular in the south of Italy. “Thais should really love this,” he says. And, of course, they must try his award-winning cappelletti, a rustic version of a kind of veal tortellini (B420). Or dive in to one of a handful of sourdough pizzas, such as the Prosciutto di Parma pizza (B450), and, after that, a classic dry almond cake, topped with poached guava and mascarpone (B250). “In every dish, you’ve got to taste the soul,” Randall insists. At Theo Mio, it’s a good bet you will at least get a flavourful dose of his good luck.
THEO MIO GF, InterContinental Bangkok | 0 2656 0444 facebook.com/theomioitaliankitchen | daily 7.30am-midnight
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BISTRO M - Can You Top This? In a town where rules are made to be broken, in cuisine as well as life, the cozy Bistro M eatery may have come up with the ultimate in East-West snacking. A popular, casual dining spot for ex-pats and locals alike, with wide windows fronting an expansive length of Sukhumvit 24, the restaurant also has the challenge of tempting the variety of palates of in-house guests staying in the Marriott Executive Apartments above. And this desire to surprise, combined with a burst of Thai pride, has led to a special selection of newlyminted pizzas that would be as much of a shock to the taste buds of Naples as they seem certain to become a hit in this “Venice of the East.” Priced at an affordable B333 a pop for an ample eight-slice circle of happiness, served on a butcher block platter, these precociously multicultural pizzas start with wonderfully crispy thin crusts. Nothing is the slightest bit soggy here, which is really what makes for the miracle. And diners are encouraged to split their requests in half-orders so that they can try more of the many unique flavors on offer. Start with the gai yang—hunks of grilled chicken dribbled with an Isaan dipping sauce and just the right hint of mozzarella cheese—before getting into more exotic combos. What about a crumble of very piquant pork laab 108 | NOV EMBER 2015
in place of humdrum Italian sausage? In case that’s not enough of a journey away from the ordinary, another slice from the oven is laden with pork neck hunks in a thick chilli paste. Thais have long ago perfected their tart green curries stirred into spaghetti, so why not add surprising heat to the traditionally bland combination of cheese and floury dough? The tom yam pizza features shrimp, of course, and a dense saturation of sour tamarind. There’s no compromise on local taste here, which is what makes it all work. The piece de resistance, however, is the first successful attempt at a pad Thai pizza. No, there are no noodles to double down on the starch—just shrimp, tofu, scrambled eggs, and scallions to simulate the lightness of everyone’s favourite noodle-y staple. Wash it all down with local beer or a thick smoothie. Better yet, Bistro M’s full menu—from duck breast to rack of lamb—is still available, just in case the pizzas aren’t enough. But they certainly make the perfect lunch. Where else could you pack a trip to Italy and the next sidewalk’s best street food flavours into every bite?
BISTRO M AT MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS 90 Sukhumvit 24 | 0 2302 5265 | marriott.com daily breakfast 5.30am-10.30am, lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5pm-11pm
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BENIHANA - Still Going Strong after all These Years Before conveyor sushi or exported izakaya, even preceding Toyota and Honda, the first Japanese brand-name to conquer American consumers was Benihana. Back in the early 60s, migrant Hiroaki “Rocky” Aoki opened a four-table venue in New York drawing on the American love for grilled meat, along with the showmanship and knife-play inherent in tableside teppanyaki, launching a world-wide chain that pioneered the bridging of East and West and changed tastes forever. It’s hard to believe, but perfectly true, that Benihana was largely responsible for the first widespread acceptance in American cupboards of that “exotic” staple, soy sauce. Half a century later, Benihana is alive and well in Bangkok—and given the Thai fondness for group experiences, food sharing, and luxury ingredients, it seems a perfect addition to the capital’s increasingly varied dining scene. Just opened on the mezzanine of Petchaburi Road’s rebranded and refurbished Avani Atrium, this is the third outlet in Bangkok, but the one most easily accessible for after-work or weekend outings downtown. At the centre of every table, and the Benihana experience, is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the restaurant’s signature fried rice. (All items can be chosen a la carte and range from B500 to over B2000.) Carefully 110 | NOV EMBER 2015
trained by Japanese masters, the Thai staff seem up to the samurai challenge, though they may need to work on the rhythmic tapping of pepper shakers punctuated by grunts. After all these years, the showmanship still delivers a thrill for one reason: the food remains immensely satisfying. Benihana’s menu is hardly old hat. The restaurant now features an outstanding Wagyu burger (B750). For those who steer clear of cattle, there’s a tuna steak burger, plus a surprisingly large, cleverly packaged selection of fish. The Alaskan king crab salad is a meal in itself, and management has clearly taken note of the popularity of raw fish. High-quality sashimi comes in wooden boats, the one presentation that’s traditional—though there’s a Westernized all-you-can-eat element to the Benihana Boat, with 24 kinds of fish for B2220. Rolls come with fanciful names like “Hamachi Beach,” “Fast & Furious,” and “Rocky’s Mountain Sandwich.” Not to be outdone by recent health trends, Benihana offers outstanding mocktails, too. If anyone has room, there’s a mousse of white chocolate and green tea for dessert. Benihana: may it rule another 50 years.
BENIHANA Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd | 0 2718 2023 avanihotels.com | daily lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6-10.30pm
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in the kitchen
MARKUS ROTARD talks to John Krich
There’s a German invasion at the French-owned Le Méridien. Bold young chef Markus Rotard, who at 23 became the youngest executive chef in the Starwood group, says he came to Asia—following a recent four-year stint in Stockholm—to experience the joys of teaching staff and absorbing flavours from a new culture. “No risk, no gain,” is the lean and lanky cook’s motto. Adding a la carte pizzazz to the hotel’s all-purpose breakfast-to-buffet restaurant, Chef Rotard can plate pretty entrées with the best of them: a smear of cauliflower purée sits under succulent chunks of roast, with asparagus tips lending edible and aesthetic contrast. “The advantage of working for a hotel is that there’s more money to back your creativity,” he says. “And, here, they have given me free rein.” So the native of the Frankfurt region, conspiring with a general manager who originally hails from a nearby area in Germany, has decided to move the hotel into new culinary territory by falling back on an old favourite. It’s sausage— also known as wurst—that he thinks will go best with the Patpong district’s hungry street traffic. By the end of November, Le Méridien hopes to have completed a total overhaul of its ground-level Latitude 13 (yes, the correct geographic reading for Bangkok) from an under-utilized space for smokers into an earthy barbecue restaurant spilling out on the sidewalks of Surawong Road. Part of the draw will come on Thursdays, when they will present 112 | NOVEMBER 2015
live music. But every night, the main show on offer will be “Bubble and Dogs,” with champagne in a supporting role to the wide array of sausages Chef Rotard plans to manufacture in-house. He shows off a “curry wurst” that’s more Indian than Thai in spice mix and, surprisingly, already a staple item back in Deutschland. He keeps secret for now the many other tube-shaped treats he plans to offer. But they will be accompanied by a series of specialty hot sauces that come from Kansas in the US (one is called “American Killer”). One even contains the dreaded bhut jolokia pepper from Assam, more commonly known as the ghost chilli, which can be consumed only in tiny droplets. Chef Rotard knows full well the Thai reputation for being able to handle the hottest food around—he wants to challenge locals. Latitude 13 will even stage a contest where the diner who can take the hottest hot sauce will win a free month of hot dogs. The philosophy of the Le Méridien chain, as Rotard explains, is to help guests “unlock their destination.” By this, he means come into real contact with all that’s around him. And maybe the best of German wurst will help visitors take a bite out of Bangkok street life as well.
LATITUDE 13 Le Méridien Bangkok, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 0 2232 8888 lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com | daily 7.30am-10pm
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“Eating the Italian way” NEWLY OPEN
Sukhumvit Soi 20 Mille Malle@Millennium Residence Sukhumvit Tel: 02 663 4988
www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
Sukhumvit Soi 22
WINE connection MAXVALU
7 ELEVEN 7 ELEVEN
SUKHUMVIT ROAD
Sukhumvit Soi 18
Holiday Inn
Sukhumvit Soi 22
RAMA IV ROAD
FOOD & DRIN K
food for thought
Niikki Pure Spirit Made by Mother Earth
N
ikolaus Prachensky is pedigreed, to put it mildly. In fact, if any artisan has the wherewithal to experiment, it’s him, the founder of Niikki Pure Spirit, an award-winning distillery based in Chiang Mai. “I come from an area in Austria where every farmer distils fruit spirits, mostly from apple and pear. They call us ‘cider-heads,’” he says. “Our family has distilled for over 200 years.” Having lived in Thailand for over three decades, Prachensky finally took the plunge into spirit-making outside of Europe in 2007, launching his own distillery. At the time, he was distilling with fresh local fruit and exporting his spirits to Austria. Before long, an obvious source of inspiration presented a fascinating challenge. Rather than using tropical fruit, he would distil an ultra-premium spirit from aromatic Thai rice. After seeking out advice and assistance from some of the world’s top distillers, a new Niikki Pure Spirit was born. Made from local rice (organic, when available), the spirits go through a triple distillation process using the most upto-date techniques, as well as some that are, quite frankly, a little unusual. “We play classic music on an endless loop to our spirits,” says Prachensky. “They seem to enjoy that—no kidding.” The rice comes directly from small growers with whom Prachensky and his team of five have a close relationship. They believe in chemical-free, sustainable agriculture, too, so nearly all by-products are recycled, composted, or re-used in environmentally-friendly ways. That kind of devotion to the small, but infinitely important, things makes up the modus operandi. Fermentation happens under strictly monitored conditions, ensuring a perfect environment for yeast to thrive. 114 | NOV EM BER 2015
The mash is slowly distilled to crystalline purity in a Germanmade copper still. And ultra-pure energized water is used throughout production, following the theory of the Austrian water pioneer Jakob Grander. A recently unveiled line of products sees the team branching out even further. Niikki Pure Spirit Kristall V, Kristall G, and Kristall R—the letters stand for the colours of the labels on the bottle, violet, green, and red, as well as the spirits they resemble: vodka, gin, and rum—feature a brand-new range of flavour profiles and histories. Kristall R, inspired by sugarcane- and molasses-based rum from the Caribbean, is distilled using the finest molasses available in the community, and Kristall V represents a stab at ricebased vodka made with choice grains. While both are highquality spirits with smooth, mellow tastes, Kristall G is the most interesting—at least from a narrative standpoint. While studying with local distillers, Prachensky unearthed a special ingredient they had kept secret for generations. Each community had a “loogpaeng,” a kind of yeast and enzyme culture that imparted different characteristics on their spirits. But they wouldn’t spill their secrets, so Prachensky and the team set to work creating their own “loog-paeng” The result is Kristall G. With a complex fragrance—but a distinctive smooth finish—the spirit certainly stands out, even among the other products distilled by Niikki Pure Spirit. It goes well neat, on the rocks, or mixed. In less than a decade, the distillery has grown from small name to big in artisanal spirit-making. Its growth might stem from the brand’s experimental lilt. Beyond the obvious quirk—that being the distilling of rice into worldclass spirits—the squiggly triangle player on the bottle, a figure vaguely reminiscent of “School House Rock,” but vastly more surreal, speaks to a willingness to bare the soul. It’s also why Niikki Pure Spirit—the name, the taste— lingers on lips long after the glass empties. bangkok101.com
street eats
FOOD & DRIN K
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
DUCKING DOWN THE ALLEY
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hen it comes to street food and Banglampu, I am tireless. For me, this bustling, chaotic quarter of Bangkok, best known as a backpacker hub, is a treasure trove of gastronomic gems waiting to delight my palate. Most days a dizzying line up of street vendors swarm the pavement, turning walkways into a cross between an obstacle course and a magical mystery tour of aromas that waft from every side. Except on Mondays, when the city authorities ban street vendors and the pavements are suddenly vacant! From one angle, lonely walkways may look a little sad, but the upside is that with fewer vendors to cloud the vision you can better appreciate some of the other, more-established restaurants that pepper the alleys of Banglampu. One of my favourite roast duck noodle joints is literally squeezed down a cramped alley that’s so narrow you’ll miss it if you blink. Small as it may be, this place looms large in my consciousness and has become a culinary anchor in my life. I still remember my mother bringing me here as a tiny child. At that time it was the father at the helm—o r rather behind the stove. It’s one of the places where the flavours have been cultivated not over the years, but down through the generations. Like so many places in Thailand, my roast duck noodle restaurant cloaks its treasures behind the most modest of appearances; two rows of seating extend from the front, which is decorated with a few ducks and shrouded in the steam emanating from a cauldron of broth. When it comes to Bangkok eateries, the rule is that one should never equate the beauty of a venue with the taste of its cuisine. I’ve had some of my finest meals in the most simplelooking places. And it’s almost always more about focus than variety. Some of the greatest restaurants do just one or two dishes, but they do them well. Here you’ll find just two basic choices: Ped Yang (roasted duck) and Ped Palo (stewed duck). If that doesn’t sound inspiring, remember that the stewed duck is cooked in a rich five-spice broth and the roasted duck is marinated in a mouth-watering mix of brown sugar, garlic, and soy sauce (known as si-iew in Thai). It’s all about the balance and that magic ingredient. bangkok101.com
Instead of ordering the classic duck noodle dish with soup (which is great, of course), I went for a version known as Kao Lao Ped Toon, which consists of a bowl of stewed duck meat on bones (marinated in that delicious five-spice mix) laid over vegetables, but without the soup. To me, the soup can sometimes be a distraction from the delicate flavour of the duck. You can spice it up with a dusting of fiery dried chilli and a splash of chilli vinegar. Since one is never enough, I also opted for a second bowl, this time with flat noodles and with the soup served on the side. You can’t find yourself before such artful deliciousness and not go the whole nine yards, right? Kouy Tiew Ped Yang Banglampu is on Chakkrapong Road, opposite Tanee Road. It’s around the Khao San Road area. Come for breakfast, lunch, or an early dinner between 8 am and 4pm each day.
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listings
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET BAR & GRILL 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63 0 2381 6801 | bourbonstbkk.com 7am-1am A Cajun-Creole cut-out whose vast menu explores the patois of the Louisiana bayou and shines in dishes like crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, and barbeque ribs.
LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm1am, Sun 5.30-midnight An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious and exotic twists on old world standbys (e.g. truffle fries).
MOULIN 88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 0 2712 9348 moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm With a menu that shoots off in different directions, the lack of clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners, but the food — broadly defined as trendy New York fare — does not disappoint.
XIN TIAN DI Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk. com | 11.30am-2.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and a la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok.
FRENCH BRASSERIE 9 Asiatique The Riverfront (Warehouse9), Waterfront District | 0 2108 4288 brasserie9.com | daily 3pm-12am Adjacent to Asiatique’s busy riverside frontage, this restaurant serves up a wide selection of traditional French bistro-style favourites, plus a few items with a modern twist.
MEI JIANG
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.
THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan. 116 | NOV EM BER 2015
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON MahaNakorn CUBE, 96 Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Rd | 0 2001 0698 | robuchonbangkok.com | Lunch 11.30am-12.30pm, Dinner 6.30pm-10.30pm The Michelin master’s swank and superexpensive Bangkok outlet serves Gallic food at its finest. Exactly the quality you would expect from Robuchon.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4899 | jaime-bangkok.com The classic French cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes and dexterity of Chef Amerigo. You might even find yourself trying to recreate certain ones the next day.
CHINESE The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.
LE BOEUF ERR 394/35 Maharaj Rd | 0 2622 2291-2 | errbkk.com | Tues-Sun 11am-midnight Curated by Bo & Dylan of Bo.lan, Err is the latest local eatery to apply minimalist principles and gain maximum flavor profiles. As an old shophouse with the funkiest of tasteful trimmings, this hip little place has become an almost obligatory lunch stop on the tourist circuit once listed in Lonely Planet and a spot to feel instantly at home. The restaurant takes its name from the most common Thai form of assent which mirrors the local experience of finding good food in low-key surroundings.
CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed.
Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup. com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: highquality steak liberally doused with a unique pea green-coloured sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. It is, in a word, French to the core.
MAISON BLANCHE 38 Narathiwat Soi 2 | 0 2634 7939 maisonblanchebkk.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-11pm A little slice of southern France in the heart of Bangkok. This is contemporary homestyle French cooking its best. Of course, that is not to say it is uncomplicated or lacking sophistication. Far from it.
SAVELBERG GF, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 800 | facebook.com/savelbergth | open MonSat, noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s pedigree and befitting of the restaurant’s refined ambience. bangkok101.com
listings THE GLASS BANGKOK 8/8 Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 0 2108 8982 | theglassbangkok.co.th | Sun-Thurs 11.30am-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-11pm Not everyone is a wine expert or familiar with French cuisine, but that’s where The Glass shines. The kitchen is consistent, and guests can pick from wines they may have thought they would never try.
INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
GAGGAN 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 0 2652 1700 | eatatgaggan. com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm- 11.30pm A must-visit in the ever-growing fine dining scene, voted number one in the 2015 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Try one of the tasting menus to experience the breadth of progressive, molecular dishes available.
INDIQUE 28 Park Avenue, Sukhumvit 22 | 08 1425 4422 | facebook.com/indiquebangkok | daily 11am-1am The pocket-friendly food and drinks are bursting with modern touches without eschewing India’s rich culinary heritage.
MAYA 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2683 4888 | mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am
A high-flying joint that contains more than a few surprises, from cocktails with Indian twists to food that marries ingredients unusual in Indian cuisine with classic manifestations from the Subcontinent.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there’s a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. Proceedings go up a notch when kebabs and curries come out.
INTERNATIONAL 22 KITCHEN & BAR 946 Thanon Rama IV | 0 2200 9000 | dusit. com | Bar 4pm-Midnight, Dinner 6pm-10pm Impeccable meals from the Pacific Rim, bridging Peruvian, West Coast American, Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. Led by the exuberant, innovative Nikolas Ramirez, this restaurant is one not to miss.
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am
FOOD & DRIN K
Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
ELEMENTS 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space offering “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
FAT’R GUTZ Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2185 2373 | facebook.com/ Fat.R.Gutz | 11am-2am Trendy as trendy can be, this second sister to the original Fat Gutz serves spot-on fish and chips with panache, but don’t expect to enjoy a romantic dinner: Seenspace gets packed by 8pm.
THE GARDENS OF DINSOR PALACE 1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd, between Soi 59 and 61 | 0 2714 2112 | thegardenspalace.com Breakfast/brunch from 8am, lunch from 11am2.30pm, dinner from 5pm daily Using imported and local ingredients, some of which are grown in the hydroponic vegetable garden out back, chefs produce modern dishes with a distinct French influence. Take time to visit the verdant grounds.
HARVEST 24 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2262 0762, 09 7235 8286 | facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK 5.30pm-12am
THE DIPLOMAT SERIES –NEW COCKTAIL MENU Discover the Diplomat Bar series; handcrafted classic international cocktails representing diplomats from America, Italy and France. Get acquainted with The Diplomat Series, daily from 17:00-20:00 with a “Buy 1 Get 1” offer. Starting from THB 380* ++ per glass
*Exclusive of 10% service charge & VAT
Diplomat Bar, 1st floor Conrad Bangkok 7 a.m. until midnight All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road, Bangkok 10330 Thailand For reservations call 02 690 9244 or bkkci.diplomat@conradhotels.com bangkok101.com
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listings Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue in Phrom Pong relies heavily on Italian influences and high-quality seafood, but the menu incorporates a touch of Spanish and French flair, as well.
HEMINGWAY’S Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 0 2653 3900 hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11.30am-late (kitchen closes 10.45pm) Hemingway is ideal fodder to fill this 1920s-style golden teak house. A classy venue dispensing the author’s favourite spirits in generous pours and upper-end pub grub that stands up the author’s ballast.
HYDE & SEEK GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.
KAI
253/2 Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66(0)2 003 9597, +668 1535 4578 Mob: +668 9894 6516 Opening hours Monday to Thursday 6pm - 11pm Friday to Sunday 12noon - 3pm, 6pm - 11pm
AzzurroRestaurantBangkok www.azzurrorestaurant.asia
Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok. com | Mon-Fri 9.30am-11.30pm, 8.30am11.30pm This handsome eatery makes an impressive go of answering the question: What does “Kiwi cuisine” actually mean? It’s an appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.
MAD MOA 211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd | 085 155 2601 facebook.com/MadMoa | Tue and Sun 6pm11pm A four-table shophouse serving hearty Polynesian and American food, like burgers, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and slow-cooked ribs, as well as fantastic locally brewed beer.
MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lor’s urban dining scene.
PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The 118 | NOVEMBER 2015
buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com 6.30pm-10.30pm Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together.
RED OVEN Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com 6.30pm-10.30pm Styled as a World Food Market, this 7thfloor all-day dining venue, named after the restaurant’s red Molteni oven, offers dishes reminiscent of traditional street food with a contemporary twist in buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant puts on a scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.
SALT Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 0 2619 6886 saltbangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Salt is a hipster’s dream, a gastro bar with a post-modern finish. What makes it truly special is the cuisine, from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire.
SEVEN SPOONS 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd | 0 2629 9214, 08 4539 1819 | sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com Mon 11am-3pm, Tue-Sat 11am-12am, Sun 6pm-12.00am Hard to go wrong with any meal you choose at this Lan Luang favourite, where freshness and attention to detail are the expectation. Vegetarian-friendly without denying meat-lovers.
SHEEPSHANK 47 Phra Arthit Rd | 0 2629 5165 sheepshankpublichouse.com | Tues-Sun 6pmmidnight A chalkboard announces specials while a one-page table menu keeps the decisionmaking pleasantly minimal. Fresh organic, fair-trade ingredients produce hearty flavours in grilled meats and seafood.
SIROCCO 63F Tower Club at Lebua, Silom Rd | 0 2624 9550 | lebua.com/sirocco | 6pm-1am There’s no getting around the obvious — no matter how well-made the cocktails bangkok101.com
listings or impressive the modern European food may be, the view is undeniably the star of the show.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab — you name it.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
TRADER VIC’S Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com A global name for over 75 years, Trader Vic’s serves cuisine inspired by the Pacific Rim, including unique tastes cooked in Bangkok’s only Chinese wood-fired oven and a range of signature Mai Tai cocktails.
ITALIAN AZZURRO 253/1 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2003 9597 | facebook. com/AzzurroRestaurantBangkok A new Italian addition to the bustling food street with its extensive menu inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy.
DON GIOVANNI 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 0 2541 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com bangkok101.com
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The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.
ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Traditional Italian to the bones, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore.
GARIBALDI’S Somserset Lake Point Tower A, 41 Sukhumvit 16 | 0 2262 0835 | garibaldisbangkok.com open daily Featuring cuisines running the length of the Mediterranean, the most memorable dishes nevertheless return to the restaurant’s Italian roots, dishes filled with energy and flair.
ITALICS 63/3 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2253 2410 italicsrestaurant.com | daily 8am-11pm Using ingredients sourced directly from Thai farmers and artisans, Italics provides an intriguing take on Italian classics. Interesting combinations abound, and there’s plenty of wine, as well as a stellar espresso.
JOJO The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com/bangkok | noon3pm, 6pm-11pm One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with ingredients imported from the region conjuring authentic flavours of the Veneto. Has a magnificent wine cellar, too.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
LENZI Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, Ruam Rudee Soi 2 0 2001 0116 | lenzibangkok.com | Lunch 11.45-2pm, Dinner 6pm-10.45pm NOV EMBER 2015 | 119
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listings Many ingredients sourced from the chef’s native Tuscany — including fresh white truffles, hams, and salami. It just doesn’t get much more Italian than this in Bangkok
SENSI Narathiwat Soi 17 (Yaek 5) | 0 2117 1618 facebook.com/sensibangkok | Mon-Sat 6pmmidnight Intense flavours spun from fresh produce, complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and lightness, results in amazing creations.
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists.
JAPANESE GENJI GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd 0 2655 4265 | genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A Bangkok institution for more than 30 years, where presentation is crucial to the overall effect. Top-quality and wellexecuted Japanese cuisine.
HAMA-ICHI Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 0 2662 3376 | facebook.com/ hamaichibangkok | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4pm-11pm Almost 300 dishes. Dive in to tempura, seared salmon, wasabi-paired sashimi, and a number of hotpots, dining side-byside with salarymen at the long bar or at a table sectioned off by bamboo screens.
KAGUYA The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2714 9974 | facebook.com/ kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm These guys take cocktails seriously. The food presents a more complex equation. The best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. Japanese ox tongue cooked sous vide? Yes, please.
KOM-BA-WA 39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 3775 kombawa.com 120 | NOVEMBER 2015
Meaning “good evening” in Japanese Kom-Ba-Wa occupies a shophouse on hip Suan Phlu. The dishes are a modern interpretation of traditional cuisine. Interested in Sushi and Sashimi? The best bet is order the chef’s choice platters.
SHINTORI Level 18, Zen World, Zen Department Stores 0 2100 9000 | shintoribangkok.com | 5.30pm-late If you’re looking for a dinner that impresses on all fronts, it’s worth forking out for a meal here, as the combination of a thrilling setting and exciting food is still hard to find in this town.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.
TORO SUSHI No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2712 8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned, there’s nothing fancy about this place —in a city where style often strong-arms substance, that’s part of its charm. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table instead of the sushi bar.
YTSB 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar,” which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about yellowtail, either — there’s real variety on the menu.
YUUTARO 5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd 0 2160 5880-1 | yuutaro.com | daily 11am10.30pm Raw food stars. Sushi and sashimi — toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.
ZUMA GF, 159 Rajadamri Road | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm This izakaya-style joint delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared bangkok101.com
listings with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually.
MIDDLE EASTERN AL SARAY 4F, Bangkok Plaza Building, Bangkok General Hospital, Soi Soonvijai 7 | 0 2319 4388 alsarayrestaurant.com | daily 9am-10pm What Al Saray serve here are authentic, traditional Lebanese recipes passed down from generation to generation. The only place in Bangkok where you can find shanklishe - an aged, spice-coated cheese made in-house.
ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand | 11am2am The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), it includes some they probably won’t.
BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.
SHAHRAZAD 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1| 0 2251 3666 | 9am-3am The grand old dame of Middle Eastern dining, where the baba ghanoush is just as excellent as the grilled lamb leg. The cuisine spans the Middle East, with a nod to Iranian. Authentic and recommended.
MEXICAN EL OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 0 2650 9581 | elositobkk.com | Mon-Sat 11am-11.30pm New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean& DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cumrestaurant at night.
MÉJICO 2F, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | 11am-12am bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am Nowhere else in town are there dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown elsewhere. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.
TACOS Y SALSA 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 08 6346 0822, 08 6346 0822 | tacosnsalsa.com | Daily 3pm-12am A brightly-coloured haunt, decorated with the owner’s own artwork, serving up authentic Mexican food and tasty margaritas. A great spot to satisfy any Mexican cravings.
SEAFOOD SEAFOOD MARKET AND RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 2071-5, 0 2661 1252-9, 0 2259 6580-1 seafood.co.th | 11.30am-11.30pm Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also tons of local and imported seafood for sale.
SNAPPER 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2651 1098 snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Don’t expect a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients, but rather simple preparation rounded out with elegant presentation. One of the best fish and chips in Bangkok resides here, this Kiwirun establishment.
THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. Big appetites should try the seafood platter: a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and more. NOVEMBER 2015 | 121
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listings SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
STEAK & BURGER EL GAUCHO 8/1-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 0 2255 2864 elgaucho.asia | Noon-midnight Meat lovers will enjoy the authentic taste of Argentinian steak in all its flame-kissed goodness, the meals best rounded out with a hearty South American red wine.
FIREPLACE GRILL STEAKHOUSE InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0444 ext.5505 | Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm This perennial favourite has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers.
NEW YORK STYLE STEAK & BURGER 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2262 0920 nysteakandburger.com | 11am-11pm It’s all about freshness. The burgers are ground each morning. Vegetables are sourced from the Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Crunchy buns are ordered from Maison Jean Philippe.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city, now abetted by high-quality seafood. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya. 122 | NOVEMBER 2015
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder, before moving on to the main attraction: flame-broiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
THAI BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm A glittering array of Thai favourites—it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.
BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place. bangkok101.com
listings KRUA APSORN Dinso Rd | 02 685 4531 | kruaapsorn.com Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm Quintessential Thai food served in a low-key shophouse in the old town. There’s a reason this place is so beloved by locals.
some of the most authentic Thai food in the city and is a sure bet for a great meal.
PASTE 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2392 4313 pastebangkok.com | Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late A triumph, delivering with exceptional panache and serving a riff on modern Thai food that is not just instantly gratifying, but also truly memorable.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2714 7708 soulfoodmahanakorn.com | 6pm-Midnight Run by an American food writer turned chef, this tiny Thong Lo establishment serves
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SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER
DEAN & DELUCA GF EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier 0 2261 0464 | deandeluca.co.th | daily 10am-10pm Part café, part deli, Dean & Deluca won the hearts of New Yorkers with its marbled, minimal, neo-industrial—and therefore very New York—style, not to mention its cornucopia of gourmet goods. Now Thai-owned, the brand has swept through cosmopolitan Bangkok. At this outlet under the waterfall in EmQuartier, the menu is a composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with local ingredients, solidifying a reputation for first-class casual dining in the city.
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
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bangkok101.com
NIGHTLIFE BORGEOUS IS BACK
Third time’s a charm, as they say. Young American DJ Borgeous returns to Bangkok for the third time in 2015, visiting Live RCA (Rama IX Rd) on November 5. The last two shows boasted packed houses. Nothing suggests this one will be any less of a success. Starting at 6pm with tropical house in the garden terrace, DJs Tong Apollo, ZuperL, Peppers, GiftOKB, and more will build up the beats before Borgeous takes the decks. Food trucks will supply burgers, wings, and BBQ. The dress code is white. Go to facebook.com/epicbangkok for more details.
SALSA PICANTE
Latin beats land at Le Méridien on November 5, as legendary salsa singer Mirley “Chino el Sonero” Espinoza arrives for a one-night-only performance, organized by DJ Noi, La Rueda Dance Club, and Latinos Bangkok. The tico will join local Thai group Los Rumberos Latin Band, and resident DJ Noi will lay down tracks between salsa sets. The music starts at 8.30pm and runs until 1.30am. Tickets are B1200 and include one drink. For more information, call Carlos Carranco at 08 4023 3999, Ricardo Ponce at 08 9035 7032, or Pom of La Rueda at 08 9136 9967.
A SECOND SERVING OF SALSA
Hungry for more? The salsa train rolls on from November 6-8 with the 11th Salsa Bangkok Fiesta, which also adds other kinds of dance into its itinerary: bachata, cha cha, kizomba, zouk, and more. Six-time World Salsa Champion Rafael Barros and Carine Morais from Brazil will join, and top DJs from as far away as New York, Peru, and Tokyo will take over the decks. Dance parties will take place at Windsor Suites Hotel at 8pm each night. There will also be daytime workshops, as well as a pool party at Doubletree by Hilton (B1000 per night; B3500 for three nights plus the pool party; B9500 for three nights plus the pool party and 10 dance classes). Go to salsabangkok.com for more details.
FAR OUT SOUNDS
Held over two days at two different locations, Delicate Decibel delivers experimental and live electronic tunes to the underground scene on November 6 and 7. The first day takes place at Live RCA, featuring top artists from across the globe, including Todd Terry, Robert Ostertag, #normal, and DJ Dragon of Dubway. On the second day, it heads to Jam Café (BTS Surasak), where there will be a music workshop and a closing party. Tickets are B400 for the first day (includes one drink) and B200 for the second (also includes one drink). Check facebook.com/delicate.decibel for current news.
FREAKY FRIDAY
On Friday, November 13, Itchy Pub, out in the suburbs on Srinakarin Rd, welcomes rising Chiang Mai-based electronic pop group Polycat and established rockers Lomosonic to the stage. The former has gained a lot of attention since its cameo in The Hangover II. Their music justifies the love. Closing act Lomosonic made waves in 2013 with double album “Echo & Silence.” Tickets are only B150. The challenge might be finding a taxi to drive all the way to Srinakarin—and then finding a seat, because this will be a popular ticket. Call 0 2740 4435 to make a reservation.
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review
THE THIRD PIG - Fairytales and Friends and Funky Food and Drinks -
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ccording to legend, a big, bad Bangkok wolf once went on a minor reign of terror. First, he huffed and puffed and blew down a little piglet’s straw hut. With a craving for chaos yet unsatisfied, the greedy beast wet his lips and struck again, reducing a second pig’s castle to a pile of twigs and laughing all the way to Lad Phrao. But, boy, was he in for a surprise when he reached The Third Pig. A team of twenty built this brasserie with brick and mortar. They wouldn’t let him in, not by the hair on their chinny chin chins, and the hip urban nightspot withstood the wolf’s mighty wind. A rustic re-envisioning of the timeless fairytale, The Third Pig occupies a former bank across the road from Jatujak Park. Open three months, this cosy-casual bar-restaurant with an electro soundtrack is already a major hit with locals, especially on the weekend, when reservations are practically a must. The interior resembles a home in the English countryside, complete with faux hearth, rusted furnishings, a gramophone and bubble TV, dried wildflowers, and pinecones in baskets. The chairs don’t match the tables— the chairs and tables don’t match the other chairs and tables. It’s an antique-store mish-mash that scores major points for creativity. And creativity drives The Third Pig. Twenty friends, many having known each other since the first grade, teamed up to open the place. Some have backgrounds in advertising. One is a musician in 126 | NOVEMBER 2015
DCNXTER. Another runs the successful Mixology in Chiang Mai. They’re bartenders, chefs, and designers. Together, they run a smooth ship. It’s all smiles on the floor and risk-taking with the menus. Drinks centre on “Pignature” cocktails, each with a twee name, such as Miss Riding Hood and the Brick House Cobbler, a Christmas-like blend of berries and chocolate liqueur, which, for the record, comes with a Kit Kat bar as garnish (B260 each). Many have obvious pizzazz (infused smoke, the use of jelly, rare boozes in the mix) and all speak to the unique skillsets the partners put to perfect use. The food speckles international standards with a Thai touch. Massaman lasagne (B250) adds carrots and potatoes to pasta. Pa-loh carbonara (B180) fuses the flavours of the five-spice stew with the Italian staple. Gang som mussels (B260) bring heat and sour notes to shellfish. It takes a certain breed of daring to serve this kind of fusion food, and no small amount of skill to pull it off so well. Fairytales have never felt so adult, yet so fun, as they do at The Third Pig.
THE THIRD PIG Phahon Yothin 20 | 09 8965 4356 facebook.com/The3rdPig | daily 5.30pm-12am
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review
HOT ROD - In the Captain’s Chair -
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on’t be fooled by the name. Hot Rod has nothing to do with race cars, drive-ins, or Americana, edible or otherwise. An exciting new concept that prides itself on putting out “Thai tapas,” also known as some lusciously local bar food, Hot Rod packs a combustive amount of cool—via its drinks and design—into a tiny, glassed-in corner of Ekkamai’s Park Lane mall. The latest creation of eclectic Aussie designer and entrepreneur Ashley Sutton, located just a few steps from his quirky Iron Balls gin distillery-cum-watering hole, patrons sit on stools around a u-shaped bar topped with shiny copper plating and stamped with the popular motifs of Thai tattoos—silhouetted geckos, stupa spires, and other Buddhist imagery meant to insure good fortune. At once cutting-edge metallic, both Gothic and Buddhist, it’s one of the most unique, if most miniature, spaces in town. Thirsty patrons’ good fortune begins with signature drinks (B220 each) like “You Don’t Know Jack”—yes, containing a few subtle slices of jackfruit—as well as “Drunken Cha Yen,” a potent play on spiced Thai iced tea, and, of course, a “Bloody Hot Rod.” Do you really want to imbibe such a scary concoction? Where else could lips touch a cocktail buttressed with Sriracha sauce and tamarind candy? Or take a chance on being socked with a “Muay Thai Roundhouse” that features Johnnie Walker plus crushed ginger and lychee liqueur. 128 | NOVEMBER 2015
Yet the drinks pale before the bar’s edible offerings, which are borne on square black platters after being whisked up in patrons’ full view from behind the bar. The plates may seem small, but the flavour is big when it comes to their supremely tender pork ribs (B170), a fish filet in tamarind (B150), and a bowl of baby clams in a perfect basil-coconut broth (B150). Mounds of banana blossoms are topped with quail eggs (B150), and the Salmon Aob Nampla (B150) is one succulent hunk of fish turned just the right amount of Thai. Or pork out, but not too heavily, on pork with chilli jam and prawn relish with silken tofu (B170). Various noodles come in nibbles as well, the heat of Hot Rod’s bird’s eye chillies lingering long after. There’s already a second Hot Rod in Siem Reap, Cambodia, with more planned—possibly to bring truly Thai tapas to the U.S. Open daily from 4pm until 10pm, and moderately priced for its trendy locale, Hot Rod is just the place for launching an evening’s beverage adventures, perhaps a light meal, the perfect pre-or-post dinner pit stop.
HOT ROD G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2714 2575 hotrodtapas.com | daily 4pm-midnight
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imbibe
DND Club is a favourite nightlife spot of Chivas fans
Harry and Will, Thailand’s Chivas Brand Ambassadors
130 | NOVEMBER 2015
History is a key part of the Chivas identity
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Chilling with Chivas A Journey of Discovery with Harry Daffern, a Brand Ambassador in a Foreign Land
On a rainy Thursday evening, Harry Daffern sidles up to the bar at 1881 by Water Library. He removes his copper-coloured jacket, draping it over a chair, and orders a Chivas Extra Old-fashioned. “You mean, an XO-Fashioned,” says the bartender, exchanging a laugh with the young Briton. As soon as Harry gets comfortable, a tall, barrel-chested man with arms like pythons sneaks up behind his chair. Somewhat surprisingly, he does so without a sound. Grinning wildly, he wraps Harry in a bear hug, knocking the wind out of him. “Where have you been?” he shouts. “It’s been too long!” Harry adjusts his black-framed glasses and peers over his shoulder. Within seconds, a smile suddenly parts his lips. The two burst into laughter. “What’s it been, three days?” says Harry. Relationships like these are now the norm, but they didn’t form overnight. When Harry arrived in Bangkok one year ago, he considered his future as Chivas Brand Ambassador. “I thought, ‘Wow! I’m working abroad, in Thailand. What an honour,’” he says, adding, “‘and what a responsibility.’” Thailand, as he knew it, was a whisky drinker’s paradise. Chivas was well-known. But one question endured—how could he take it to the next level? “I asked myself, ‘How do I get people to love the brand? How do I inject my passion for Chivas into my relationships with others?’” He had never been to Thailand. He couldn’t speak the language. Whilst he fed off the buzz of Bangkok, he had to clear a few obstacles before he could set down roots. “I just went out and talked with people, tried to build personal connections,” he says. He also teamed up with Teerakitt “Will” Charuchinda, the local Chivas Brand Ambassador and Mixologist, who crafts fresh, signature Chivas cocktails on top of going out and connecting with fans and partners. Together, they have fortified existing friendships, struck up new ones, and discovered great places to enjoy Chivas, such as Do Not Disturb, or DND, a top club in Thong Lo-Ekamai whose magnetic vibe and world-class DJs have made it a local favourite. Also helping the cause are grassroots efforts, when the two talk face-to-face with small groups, properly introducing Chivas. “We do a lot of tasting sessions,” says Harry. “I like to explain the history of Chivas first—there’s 200 years to talk about—because that’s very important, and then I take everyone on a journey. Smell the whisky, take a little taste, get bangkok101.com
under its skin, discover what it has to share. After that, we do a full tasting.” It’s at this point that Chivas and the sanuk way of life combine. “Whether it’s bar staff or patrons, people are always interested, always smiling,” he explains. “We’re all having fun with it, responsibly. Ultimately, what people really connect with is the experience they have whilst enjoying Chivas.” After polishing off his cocktail, and with the rain having slowed to a drizzle, Harry moves on to his next destination, Roof 409. There, he jokes in French with the mixologist, Mica, and asks for Chivas Extra with a splash of soda water. “At the end of the day, the best way to enjoy Chivas is how you like to enjoy it,” he says. “For me, you pour Chivas Extra over ice, top it off with a little soda water, and add a cinnamon stick, because cinnamon is one of the tasting notes. But for someone else the experience might be entirely different, and that’s great.” In part to learn where and how Bangkokians like to enjoy Chivas, but also to connect with more and more people, Harry and Will have launched the twice-a-month “Chivas Thailand Night Out.” Through a Facebook page of the same name, Chivas Thailand Night Out invites one and all to hit the town with Chivas and create some unforgettable stories along the way. The first two nights out were held at the Pernod Ricard Le Cercle bar (yes, there’s a bar at the Pernod Ricard office). “I wanted people to feel like they were coming to my home. That’s the essence of the brand,” Harry says. From there, the event has visited various local venues, including hotspots like Muse in Thong Lo, gradually growing bigger and gaining momentum. Chivas Thailand Night Out has showcased the lifestyle side of the brand, putting its personality on the fore—and it’s a personality with some spirit. Under the spray of Bangkok’s bright neon lights, Harry heads to his last stop of the night. This one is a rooftop bar, The Speakeasy at Hotel Muse. The staff greet him with high-fives, handshakes, and sawasdees. He chats with a couple of expats. One sips on a Blood and Sand, the other on a yet-to-be-named cocktail crafted by Danny, the clever young bar manager from Canada. Before leaving for home, Harry reflects. “You know, it’s certainly been a challenge getting to know the bartenders and managers, making friends with locals in another language,” he says. “But it’s so much fun, too.” Harry finishes his drink. He exchanges wais and shares goodbyes, and the night continues. NOV EM BER 2015 | 131
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listings
BARS 22 STEPS BAR Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 0 2207 4999 | hotelindigo.com/bangkok A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy buy-one, get-one deals or free-flow drinks at B599 during happy hours from 5pm – 9pm every day. Ladies’ night on Wednesday offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm – 11pm.
trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
BAR 23 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.
BARLEY BISTRO 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pmmidnight A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists inthe-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food 132 | NOV EM BER 2015
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 facebook.com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11ammidnight This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
BAMBOO BAR Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 | 0 2659 9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Live Jazz Sun-Thurs 9pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 9pm-1am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol the East’s past glories. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class and style. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate, balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of resident songstresses who rotate with the seasons. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. This place is ideal for a good night out on a honeymoon.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails.
HOOTERS BANGKOK Next to Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit soi 15 | 0 2006 6001-3 | hootersbangkok.com 10am-2am The new American restaurant and sports bar famous for its wings, beer, and Hooters Girls arrives in Sukhumvit.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good — and hard-to-find — craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hotspot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 facebook. com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm-2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite bangkok101.com
listings neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | daily 6pm – 2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN 4 Sukhumvit 15 | 0 2309 3255 thedrunkenleprechaun.com | 10am-1am Located on the ground floor of Four Points by Sheraton, this Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes and live sports screenings, and generous happy hours from 4pm until 8pm each day offer discounts on all kinds of drinks— the perfect partners for the pub’s complimentary “dips and dash.”
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny
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cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar, as there are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.
WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.
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BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night.
LEAPFROG Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When golden bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
MOON BAR 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in
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smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
PHRANAKORN BAR Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd | 0 2622 0282 | facebook.com/ Phranakornbarandgallery | 6pm-1am An old favourite of local art students and creative types, mostly for its indie/80s/90s playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views of the floodlit Golden Mount temple.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com 6pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come — when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
WOOBAR GF, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party. 134 | NOVEMBER 2015
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am In the middle of the backpacker ghetto, this techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe,
with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
PUBS FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Road | 0 2629 1988 gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).
MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals.
THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub 11.30am-2am bangkok101.com
listings English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and many more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. bangkok101.com
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CAFÉ TRIO GF, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan 0 2252 6929 | 6pm- 1am One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
FAT GUT’Z
264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.
PARKING TOYS 14 Prasert-Manukitch Rd, Lat Phrao | 0 2907 2228 | parkingtoys.in.th | 7pm-2am A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. Far out of town, but worth the trip.
SAXOPHONE 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd | 0 2246 5472 | saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every night of the week.
SOULBAR 945 Charoenkrung Rd | 08 3092 2266 facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok | Mon-Fri 6pm-1am Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY 462/61 Rama III Rd | 0 2678 1114 tawandang.co.th | 5pm-1am A vast, barrel-shaped beer hall that packs in the revellers who come for towers of micro-brewed beer; Thai, Chinese, and German grub (especially deep-fried pork knuckle); and, not least, the famous Fong Nam house band. NOVEMBER 2015 | 135
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DISAYA TWISTED HAUTEUR AW15 By Gaby Doman
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econstructed is something of a buzzword when it comes to anything a little bit unfinished-looking but still cool, so we can’t think of a better word to describe Disaya’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, Twisted Hauteur. Supersized safety pins hold together swathes of folded fabric and jumbo zips can be seen snaking up the length of asymmetric dresses. A theme of this collection is elements used in unexpected ways; giant frills that look punkish, crochet that looks fashion-forward, and cutaways that look demure. How does Disaya manage such a feat? It’s all in careful juxtaposing; fashion loves a contradiction, after all. Take a punk-inspired safety pin, add a little bling, and attach it to a demure evening dress and you’ve got yourself a low-key evening dress with just enough attitude to give it an edge, but not so much you look like you should be sporting a Mohawk and sitting beside the Camden locks. Similarly, Disaya utilises acres of fringing, but never once do the outfits look like your granny’s cushions. Rather, they channel Burberry Prorsum’s AW15 collection—Twisted Hauteur may have been slightly influenced by it. Who knows?—which is heavy on fringing and screams “fabulous” rather than “upholstery.” According to the designer, Disaya Sorakraikitikul, the collection is inspired by the French Renaissance, but not in the corset-wearing, ridiculously impractical dress kind of way, but rather the prints of ornate Toile de Jouy kind of way. As much as we’d love to dress like Marie Antoinette, it just doesn’t seem practical for Bangkok. Instead, the collection is made up of silhouettes inspired by the era, but given a modern update and patterns that conjure up same time period. The result is as feminine as you’d expect from Disaya, but perhaps a little more exciting than you might usually give them credit for. Whether you can see yourself wearing it or not, there’s no doubt Disaya is making a bold and brave statement with its new collection, and it’s one you have to admire. We’re always keen to see Thai fashion take a step into the unknown, and a collection that mixes up a little medieval glam with punk elements and full-on fringing has got our vote when it comes to creativity. Disaya Twisted Hauteur AW15 Paragon Department Store: 0 2610 7899 Qurator, Emquartier: 0 2261 0233 Central World: 0 2646 1828 Central Embassy: 0 2160 5649
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SHOPPING
unique boutique
SONGBIRD - Sustainable Style -
BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
“
Designing clothes is about the only thing I’ve found I’m really good at,” says Thunyaporn “Nam” Surattanachaikarn, founder of Songbird. While that claim is debatable, her dexterity as a designer is undeniable. Songbird has risen steadily since it started as an online store in 2010. By 2014, an official store had launched in Terminal 21. Within a year, Nam had closed it and opened a studio-boutique above Aran Bicicleta in Ari, where she operates without the millstone of industrial expectations slung around her neck. Enjoying creative liberty, she designs blouses, bottoms, blazers, and more according to her ethos, one inclined to simplicity and eco-friendliness. In fact, Songbird is a perfect picture of self-expression. It owes its popularity to Nam’s stark, yet often exotic, designs. Muted colour palettes and clean lines help Songbird bridge age gaps, attracting the young and the old, fashionistas of disparate generations. Crop tops contrast boxy shirts. Mini-skirts play the foil to maxi dresses. The tie that binds is one of colour and concept. Nam spends most of her time ferretting about for raw materials. Songbird products are made of organic fabrics—including linen, bamboo, and cotton—most often bought from villagers in northern Thailand and tailored without sacrificing the shape of the original patterns. “The details, textures, and colours are already in place,” she
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says. “These textiles are beautiful just the way they are. All we have to do is look at the fabric and see how we can play with it to represent our style.” In one of Songbird’s most recent collections, Indigo Mood, indigo ikat and raw linen gave the clothing natural grace. Before opening her studio in April this year, Nam travelled to Chiang Mai to learn about weaving and dying with organic ingredients from local experts. The trip further developed Songbird’s chemical-free philosophy. Shoes, bags, home décor, clothing—nothing ever includes toxic materials. Songbird designs are produced in small batches. Considering their quality and limited availability, the price tags are very fair, ranging from B1500 to over B8000. “I got into fashion design because it was my dream job,” says Nam, “not because I wanted to make a lot of money.” While resistance to the politics of the industry is admirable, it’s the designer herself who truly distinguishes Songbird and its eco-fashion framework. “For me, it’s important that every bit of fabric is used,” she says. “I make all my products by hand and with my heart.”
SONGBIRD 128/10 Phahonyothin Soi 2 | 09 6245 9690 facebook.com/songbirdth
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Khai Palow Khai Palow, duck eggs braised in five spices and dark soy sauce with pork belly, is accompanied by spongy tofu, tofu sheets, and shitake mushrooms. This is one of Ruen Urai’s “Home-grown Originals,” new menu offerings of home-style dishes inspired by the cooking of Khun Surat Prajakjitr, the owner’s nanny. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 Fax. (66) 2 266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
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Balanze by HydroHealth is a World Class Health & Anti Aging Center located on the 4th floor of the Erawan Bangkok directly connected to the Chidlom BTS station. The center provides the most professional and completed anti-aging services, specializing in detoxification, for all guests. Our staff speaks English, Japanese, and Thai. At Balanze, each customer will be met by the resident doctor followed by a professional consultant to ensure every treatment is appropriated and fully explained. To help you achieve a balanced life, Balanze offers a Fully Health Check up Program to assess your health status and detect abnormalities deep down to the DNA level, followed by customized treatments: DRAIN & DETOX This stage ensures that all toxins are drained out of your system. RECOMMEND PROGRAM: Fully Detox (4 hrs.): Colonic, Infrared Sauna, Detoxifying Massage Colonic Using gentler, cleaner, and safer reverse osmosis (RO) water at a comparative standard to that of hospitals, this treatment will drain out toxins from your colon and encourage your digestive system to work efficiently and effectively. Infrared Sauna Using infrared light, this treatment will gradually heat up your body internally to create hyperthermia, or artificial fever. Through sweat, the body will naturally eliminate toxins and heavy metals in the shin layers and lymphatic and blood streams. Detoxifying Massage Performed by our professional massage therapist, our massage eliminate toxins as well as alleviate feelings of body discomfort. Customers can select between Detoxifying Massage and our Lymphatic Massage. BEAUT Y PROGRAM Beauty Balanze provides an array of aesthetic treatments including facial treatments and overall body treatments to ensure you achieve absolute perfection. This stage tops off your perfect health with a perfect look. RECOMMEND PROGRAM: Thermage a non-invasive radiofrequency therapy that can address the look and feel of aging skin on many areas of your body. For smoother, tighter, and more contoured looking skin. Ulthera is the natural choice for a nonsurgical way to lift, tone, and tighten your skin using safe, time-tested ultrasound technology. Meso Therapy (Needle-less) Needle-less delivery of vitamins and nutrients for bright and firming skin. Facial Treatment by Cellcosmet Products (1.30 hrs.) The products from Switzerland. Clean and nourishes the skin with deep Vitacell Serum high concentrations extracts from sheep cells, firmness, suppleness, and elasticity of the skin. Cellular revitalization and visibly younger-looking skin.
Tel: (66)2 250 7800 info@hydrohealth.co.th www.hydrohealth.co.th www.balanze.com Opening Hours: 10.00 – 20.00 daily
treatment
WELLN ESS
MYTH SPA - Relaxation Written in the Stars BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
T
hai massage is timeless. Steeped in tradition, the art of massage has entered the modern day like lavender tea releasing its flavour in hot water, tradition and style a harmonious mix. Influenced by the legendary massage practices taught at Wat Po, Myth Spa offers traditional healing massages using their own unique products, and at an affordable price to boot. Myth Spa is a short walk from Ploenchit BTS, located among Ruamrudee’s star-studded restaurants and shops. Tasteful forest green and wooden textiles have a calming effect not always achieved at larger, more commercial spas. And the differences between big and boutique do not end there. Besides having five different treatment rooms, this cosy building also boasts the Myth Bar, a rooftop space where people can enjoy refreshments in the open-air before or after a massage. The treatments focus on healing and relaxation at the same time. The length of each massage varies, ranging from a brief 25 minutes to longer sessions of 50, 80, and 110 minutes. Traditional Thai massages are offered in two different forms: Common Folk (B250/25min, B400/50min, B550/80min B700/110min) and Royal (B300/25min, B450/50min, B600/80min B750/110min). The main difference between the two is that the Royal massage bangkok101.com
is performed primarily with the thumbs, hands, and palms, whereas the Common Folk incorporates the use of elbows, forearms, knees, and feet to press along the body. It feels like a yoga workout, but without the tough work. The traditional massage can also be combined with other aromatherapy and warm oil treatments from Myth’s menu. What’s more, there’s the option to be pampered by two masseuses at once. Instead of manicures and pedicures, Myth Spa treats the hands in a different way, forecasting your future with an on-site fortune teller, available by appointment. On the second floor, a small retail area offers a range of modern Thai textiles, décor, and skincare products, such as body lotion, hand cream, and aroma oils made exclusively by Myth’s R&D team, and only with natural ingredients. And what better way to cap a stress-relieving massage, or the fortune-told signs of a successful future, than with a cold beverage at the open-air bar, looking onto the ever busy Ruamrudee.
MYTH SPA BANGKOK 28/3 Soi Ruamrudee | BTS Ploenchit 0 2651 5600 | siamyth.com
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 | jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | Tue-Sun 9.30am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five 142 | NOV EM BER 2015
reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom | free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games bangkok101.com
listings galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephantback with a canon, and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen. There are always new exhibitions to explore, and, of course, you can walk away with souvenirs from the gift shop.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 | thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
PARKS LUMPINI PARK Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd | 5am-9pm; cycling/skating 10am-3pm | free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass swen together with wide, mendering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians like to take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN THAI FILM MUSEUM 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom | nfat.org | 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; Mon-Fri: by appointment | free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras and props. bangkok101.com
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Bangkok’s biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
SUAN ROD FAI PARK Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 0 2537 9221 | 5am-9pm Also just north of JJ market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them.
SARANROM PARK Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd, Phra Nakhon | 5am-8pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (SUAN SAMPRAN) 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom | 0 3432 2544 | rosegardenriverside.com | 10am-4pm Garden B50, Show B500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf court, spa organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
BENJASIRI PARK Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22/24 BTS Phrom Phong | 5am-9pm | free Next to the Phrom Phong BTS station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center, Pravet | 0 2328 972 | 5.30pm-7pm | B10
“KLONG GURU” BY ANANTARA RIVERSIDE BANGKOK RESORT 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com | daily B2000 “Klong Guru,” led by Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, takes guests to explore local life along Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River and down its labyrinth of canals. Embark on a traditional long-tail boat and sail through the capital’s hidden gems with your own Klong Guru from the resort. The trip also includes tasting Thai street food, painting traditional Thai masks, feeding fish for luck, and much more. Contact the resort for more information and to make a reservation.
BANGKOK EQUESTRIAN CENTER 20/1 Moo 2 Chalermprakiet Rama 9 Soi 48, Sukhumvit 103 Rd | 0 2328 0273 Tue-Sun 7.30am-11am, 2pm-5.30pm bangkokequestriancenter.com Founded by one of the leading horse riding instructors in Thailand, the Bangkok Equestrian Center offers stabling, tack gear, grooming, and horse training, among other services. Most riders, NOV EM BER 2015 | 143
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however, love it for its riding lessons, from the basics to world-class dressage. There’s also a Pony Club for youngsters, which gives new riders a soft introduction to the horseback riding.
EASY KART 31/11 RCA Plaza, Rama 9 Rd | 0 2203 1205 easykart.net The biggest indoor go-kart track in Bangkok features a night light system, a computer time system, a panoramic bar and restaurant, and a big screen TV. Both beginners and experienced riders are welcome.
ELITE FIGHT CLUB The Waterford Diamond Tower, Sukhumvit 30/1 | 0 2305 6685 | elitefightclub.com This luxury gym and Muay Thai training facility, located in downtown Bangkok, offers both group and private classes in Muay Thai, boxing, and MMA. Facilities include a gym, swimming pool, saunas, and Jacuzzis. Prices vary considerably depending on the package you choose.
FLIGHT EXPERIENCE 1 Sibunruang Building, Convent Rd 0 2237 9895-6 | 10am-10pm flightexperiencethailand.com Ever dream of becoming a pilot? Here’s your chance to pilot a Boeing 737-800, but in safer climes than the air. Flight Experience offers professional flight simulation for all levels, so even if it’s your first time in the cockpit simulator, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable flight. The flight packages feature take-offs and landings, challenging approaches, bad weather, and much more.
FOLLOW ME BIKE TOURS 126 Sathorn Soi 9 | 0 2286 589 followmebiketour.com Experience the “real” Bangkok and see the city’s hidden side by bicycle. The tours let you discover your own Bangkok. You can join tours that examine the city’s history or culinary heritage, day or night, or check out the jungle at Phra Pradaeng.
LE CORDON BLEU DUSIT CULINARY SCHOOL 946 The Dusit Thani Building, Rama IV Rd, Silom | 0 2237 8877 | lecordonbleudusit.com The renowned global chain Le Cordon Bleu has added a luxurious element to Bangkok’s culinary academia. The school offers a range of cooking programmes for tweens, teens, and adults, giving 14 4 | NOV EM BER 2015
lessons on international, French, and Thai cuisines, as well as desserts and pastries.
PEPPERMINT BIKE PARK Soi Yothinpattana 3 | 09 0980 1368 | facebook. com/PeppermintBikePark This newly opened bike park located at the outskirts of Bangkok offers urbanites a safe environment to cycle within a paved two-kilometre track, including a wooden bridge, a curved path, and a few rolling slopes. Annual membership is available at B200. On top of that, for members entrance costs B100 during the day and B150 at night; for non-members, it’s B150 at day and B200 at night.
co-workers and employees, expats, travellers, grandmas and grandpas: you name it — can choose from six different game rooms, each with its own set of circumstances, clues, and puzzles. Each lasts 60 minutes, but all are welcome to stick around and talk about the experience once the challenge is finished, successful or otherwise. Discounted prices are available, but only via online booking.
THE JOSEPH BOROSKI BAR & HOSPITALITY SCHOOL BANGKOK Thonglor | 0 2712 6025 | josephboroski.com Learn how to craft cocktails from the master of mix himself, Joseph Boroski, who teaches students using the one hundredplus mixes in his own recipe book. Spread across a few specially designed training stations, the classes cater to absolute beginners as well as professionals.
THE RINK ICE ARENA CENTRAL WORLD FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK 120/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2108 5210, 09 9083 8787 | flowhousebangkok.com A flowboarding action club set in the heart of Bangkok, Flow House draws all riders with its FlowRider — a thin sheet of water which flows over a slope to form of a perfect ocean wave. There’s also restaurants, retail shops, and a beach club for those who would rather hang out.
PLANET SCUBA BANGKOK 66 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 4412-3 planetscuba.net Having won numerous awards over the years for excellence in teaching standards and diver safety, Planet Scuba has become the one of Thailand’s leading diving centres. The Bangkok branch offers diving courses for beginners up to dive instructors. Diving equipment is sold here, too.
THE ESCAPE HUNT EXPERIENCE 399 Interchange Building, Unit C, B2, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2611 2828, 0 2611 2827 9.30am-8.30pm | bangkok.escapehunt.com Travel back in time to nineteenth-century London. Doing your best Sherlock Holmes impression, play the part of the detective as you set about solving mysteries set in an old Victorian house. Teams of two to five people — friends, family,
CentralWorld, 999 Ratchadamri Rd | 08 1875 1212 | therink-icearena.com Lace up those blades and channel your inner Johnny Weir at this rink in the middle of Bangkok’s biggest shopping centre.
URBAN PLAYGROUND 8 Soi Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2119 7200 Mon-Fri 1pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm urbanplaygroundclimbing.com One of the best rock climbing sites in Bangkok, Urban Playground features over 650 square metres of indoor climbing space, facilities ranging from a bouldering wall and bouldering cave to a 12 metre toprope climbing, and activities that include a one-hour introduction to climbing class. Whether you are an experienced climber or a first-timer, this place has facilities that ought to test your limits. Urban Playground also offers a variety of other ways to get the blood pumping, including racquetball courts, a swimming pool, a yoga studio, saunas, and tennis courts.
YOGATIQUE BANGKOK 116/8 Suhumvit Soi 23| 02 662 0172 yogatiquebangkok.com Strengthen your mind, body, and soul at Yogatique. Classes are divided into three categories: Mild (Mai Phet), Medium Spicy (Phet), and Spicy (Phet Phet), depending on strength and stamina. Friendly, professional bilingual instructors guide all levels of yogis through classes, providing hands-on help when necessary. bangkok101.com