PUBLISHER’S LETTER
I
t’s one of the great joys of Bangkok that there is so much diversity and so much going on at any given time of the year – and we love teling you all about it. This month, La Fete arrives in Bangkok, bringing an eclectic collection of French art, music and culture to the Thai capital. Don’t let this pass you by and, of course, turn to p12 for our rundown of the highlights.
Once you’re done with your dose of culture for the month, make sure you hit the town – our friends at Q Bar have got a packed programme coming up, having launched their eyebrow-raising ladies and making sure there’s a party every night of the week. Check out p18 for all the details. On the eating and drinking side of things, we’ve been busy at Bangkok 101 – our roving reviewer checks out Appia but we’ve also been dining out at Imperial China, Shintori, El Diablo’s and Bourbon Street, before gorging ourselves at Crepes and Co and knocking back a few cocktails at Vie Bar. This month in travel, Pattaya seems like the place to be, with the Top of the Gulf Regatta among the highlights. But we’ve also taken an island escape to Phuket and braved the chaos of Kolkata. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at www. bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.
? WHAT IS
BANGKOK 101
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in weighty, dated guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
A splash of glamour sprinkled with luxury and laced with Urban Cool. A sumptuous and enriching experience awaits at Bangkok ’s shopping paradise. Dozens of world renowned luxury brands are here, such as GUCCI, BOTTEGA VENETA, ALFRED DUNHILL, BALLY, BURBERRY, COACH, DVF, HUGO BOSS, JACK SPADE, JIMMY CHOO, KATE SPADE, LONGCHAMP, MAXMARA, MULBERRY, PAUL SMITH, PORSCHE DESIGN, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, TORY BURCH, VIVIENNE TAM and VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, along with leading Thai designers. We also feature irresistible lingerie, cosmetics and fashion accessories selections, a comprehensive children’s section and the tastefully contemporary home decor. Our Thai heritage isn’t neglected: we carry exquisite Thai-designed arts, handicrafts and furniture, all of wich make for suitably creative gifts and souvenirs. Meanwhile, there’s fine dining on the 7th floor at FoodLoft- our signature open-kitchen eatery with a choice of 8 international cuisines. Our service and attention to detail are no less refined, and we offer a fully-integrated tourist assistance program, a never-ending parade of exciting year-round giveaways, promotions and special events. For over 60 years Central has been Thailand’s best-loved department store. After a visit, you just might discover a new love yourself. Opening December 2013
CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Max Crosbie-Jones editorial assistant
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR. TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveler and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects such as Bangkok Found and Architecture of Thailand.
Very Thai author PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
Food and travel writer HOWARD RICHARDSON lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Adul Waengmol Chaweitporn Tamthai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Urasa Por Burapacheep, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Leo Devillers, Korakot Punlopruksa, Isabelle Kallo contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit director of sales & marketing
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
director of business development
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Pailyn Jitchuen
director of digital media
Nowfel Ait Ouyahia circulation
British-born writer-artist STEVEN PETTIFOR stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives and her work appears in magazines including ELLE , Elle Decoration and GM .
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
CONTENTS
TABLE OF CITY PULSE
FOOD & DRINK
6
59
metro beat 10 hot plates: appia 12 best of bangkok: la fete 16 out and about: q bar
food & drink news meal deals 62 restaurant reviews: imperial china, diablo’s, shintori, bourbon st 67 street eats: chinese wanton 68 eat like nym 69 cooking with poo 70 sweet treat: crepes & co 72 neighbourhood nosh: sukhumvit soi 31 74 restaurant listings 60
S N A P S H OT 20
tom’s two satang very thai 23 chronicle of thailand 22
SIGHTSEEING 24
highlight: thai film museum historic homes & shrines 27 temples 28 museums 26
NIGHTLIFE 81 82 84 85
T R AV E L
85
30
88
32 34 36 40
head of the gulf regatta upcountry now hotel deals island escape: phuket over the border: kolkata
90 90
nightlife news vie bar nightclubs hotel bars & clubs bars with views bars live music jazz clubs
SHOPPING 92
A R T S & C U LT U R E 44
exhibition highlights interview: montien boonma exhibition 51 reading & screening 52 photo feature: buddhadasa bhiku 46
new collection: theatre unique boutique: oxobject 95 market watch: ratchada night market 97 jj gem: keaw kham 94
WELLNESS 98 99
massage & spa spa review: so thai spa
COMM U NIT Y 100 making merit: operation smile
REFERENCE 102 getting there 104 maps 112
my bangkok: south side
bangkok 101
May 2013 100 baht
xxxxxxxxx | xxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxx
la fete
| Food & drink
comes to
xxxxx | Shopping xxxxx
town
May 2013
M AY 2 0 1 3
ON THE COVER Yo Gee Ti – part of La Fete
H O T E L PA R T N E R S
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
by Howard Richardson
PRIMAL SCREAM
World Live (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-640-7000, www.centralworld. co.th) on May 10. Early songs like Higher Than The Sun, Jailbird and Don't Fight It, Feel It should feature along with stuff from the latest album More Light. Support comes Electronic Poppers Agrikulture (Indonesia) and Getsunova (Thailand). Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets at B1800.
ROCK & POP
Californian Melodic Hardcore Punk band The Ghost Inside will crack out songs from their three albums Fury and the Fallen Ones, Returners and Get What You Give at the Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081-666-4359, www. therockpub-bangkok.com) on May 9. Tickets are B1000; doors open at 7.45pm for an 8pm show.
THE DEFTONES
US alt-rockers The Deftones hit Centerpoint Studio (9-11 Sukhumvit Soi 105 (Soi Lasalle), 02-361-9229) on May 23, touring their new album Koi No Yokan, described as moving “from pensive to pulverising – often in the space of a single song”. The Grammy winners will no doubt add to the set with tracks from other albums such as Diamond Eyes and the platinum seller White Pony. Tickets (B2000) are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor. com). Moonstar Studios (701 Ladprao 80 (Soi Chantima), 02-539-3881, www. moonstarstudio.co.th) go local for their next gig, with Blackhead promoting their new album White Line on May 25. Get tickets at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), priced B1600 (standing), B2000 (seated).
BLACKHEAD
Scotland’s Primal Scream, still going strong 22 years after their 1991 Mercury Music Prize for Screamadelica, are at Central6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
We’re promised 11 bands and 36 artists for the catchily titled Chevrolet Presents LOVEiS Unplugged Lek-Jon-Ver 4D Concert at Thunder Dome Muang Thong Thani (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, www.impact.co.th) on May 7. The line up includes Too Pobthorn, Room 39 and Lek T-Bone. Get tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) priced B1000 THB (standing) and B2500 (seated). Popular Thai band 25 Hours perform their debut headline concert at the Indoor Stadium Hua Mark (2088 Ramkhamhaeng Rd, 02-318-0940) on May 18, and promise a “very special surprise guest”. Tickets are B600-1200 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com); doors open at 7pm. The latest show from promoters Supersweet Live on May 18 is a two-parter – acoustic and electronic – headlined by US indie-rockers The Dodos at Centerpoint Studio (9-11 Soi Sukhumvit 105, Bang Na, 02-361-9229, www.centerpoint. co.th). The acoustic afternoon in the garden from 2.30pm has three bands – Dok-Mai-Ban, BeforeChamp and The Dodos – before the action moves inside for electric sets from 7.30pm. Tickets are B1000 from www. THE DODOS supersweetlive.com. bangkok101.com
metro beat The Korean invasion continues on May 18 at Scala Theatre (Siam Square Soi 1, 02-251-2861) with boy band BTOB, who apart from singing are “well known for strong dance skills and a combination of playful distinctive personalities”. Tickets are B1000-3500 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Wye Oak deliver a dose of “earnest folk-influenced indie rock with touches of noise and dream pop” at Sol Space (581/3
BTOB
CITY PU LSE
Ramkhamhaeng 1, 083-123-6755) on May 12. The duo, from Baltimore, are singer-guitarist Jenn Wasner and Andy Stack, who plays drums with his feet and right hand and keyboard with his left hand. Their three albums to date are If Children, The Knot and Civilian. Support band Stereotype kick off at 8.20pm, followed by Slow Reverse and then Wye Oak at 10.15pm. Tickets are B800. Like The Stones, Thailand’s legendary band Carabao just keeps rolling on, in all its various forms. Hence, the 60th Year Anniversary of Keo Carabao sees “a warm and private concert” by Keerati Promsakha Na Sakolnakorn (Keo Carabao) at the Royal Chalermkrung Theatre (66 Charoen Krung Rd, 02225-8757) on May 5. The singer-guitarist will be joined by a 'special guest'. There are two shows at 2pm and 7pm. Tickets are B10001500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaitickCARABAO etmajor.com).
FOOD AND DRINK
OPPOSITE MESS HALL
Due to open this month, Opposite Mess Hall (2/F, Opposite, 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51) is the new restaurant venture by Somrak Sila and Chris Wise at WTF. Heading the kitchen is Jess Barnes, formerly the chef at Quince, who we expect will continue his campaign to promote the use of local produce. We also expect American craft beers and elements of rusticfactory chic in the décor. What else? There’ll be a full review in Bangkok 101 soon. Just had dinner recently at Giorgio’s, the Italian restaurant in the Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel (2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-0123, www.royalorchidsheraton.com), and it’s a terrific deal. Start with buffet appetisers such as cold cuts, seafood and salads, followed by a choice of three mains, including Ozzie tenderloin, plus desserts from the buffet. All for B650 net. Open daily 6pm-10pm. bangkok101.com
GIORGIO'S M AY 2 0 1 3 | 7
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
DAVID GUETTA
NIGHTLIFE Always in demand as a producer and frequently ranked the world’s number one House DJ, David Guetta makes his Bangkok debut on May 9 at BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 02-749-3939, www.bitec.co.th). The Frenchman’s third album One Love sold over three million copies; he has six YouTube videos with over 100 million views; he’s worked with the likes of Rihanna, LMFAO and Akon; and his last album Nothing But The Beat includes the hits Without You (with Usher) and Turn Me On (with Nicki Minaj). Plus, we’re promised the full production show. Doors open at 8pm and they say performance will not run late, so don’t hang around. Tickets are available from B1400 (plus charges) at www.amiando.com and Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
MC BIZ MARKIE
MC Biz Markie takes the decks at Q Bar (34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-2523274, www.qbarbangkok. com) on May 8. The hip hop pioneer gained notoriety when he sampled Gilbert O’Sullivan’s Alone Again on the album I Need A Haircut and became the first person sued for illegal sampling. He also appeared as a beat boxing alien in the movie Men in Black II. Entry is free and there are two free drinks for all women entering before midnight.
Japanese techno producer and DJ Takkyu Ishino returns to Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537, www. bedsupperclub.com) on May 9 with support from DJ Dan Buri. The B800 entry includes one drink. 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
The German DJ twosome Stoneface & Terminal bring their deck skills to Narz (112 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-4805, www. narzclubbangkok.net) with a blend of techno and trance on May 31. The pair are known for the huge hits Incognition and Drowning Sunlight with Ronski Speed and have remixed acts like Armin van Buuren, Ferry Corsten and Above & Beyond. The B800 entry includes one drink. Doors open at 9pm for the midnight show.
STONEFACE & TERMINAL
FAIRS Thaifex – World of Food has a host of events, including the Thailand Ultimate Chef Challenge, World of Seafood and the Roasters’ Choice Award for Asian coffee beans. It’s at Impact Exhibition and Convention Centre (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, www.impact.co.th) from May 22-26. Get more details at www.worldoffoodasia.com. Take a fat wallet to the Shopping Paradise Fair at Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (60 Ratchadaphisek Rd, 02-229-3000, www.qsncc.co.th) from May 23-26, because there will be stacks of choice. It runs from 10am-8pm with stalls covering fashion, beauty, health, gifts, gadgets electronics, decor, and on and on. bangkok101.com
metro beat
JAZZ Friday night jazz at Niu’s on Silom (661 Silom Rd, 02-2665333, www.niusonsilom.com) sees a changing line-up, starting on May 3 with one-time Dizzy Gillespie guitarist Jerry Byrd heading a trio. Other highlights are The Chet Baker Tribute Night led by Russian trumpeter Rustem Galiullin (May 10), New York composer and sax player Joseph Marchione fronting The Jo Jo Ma Quintet in a live recording session for a new album (May 17) and The Dan Phillips Trio, featuring Bangkok’s favourite guitarist veteran of the New York and Chicago jazz circuits (May 24). The music starts at 9.15pm; admission is free.
NIU'S ON SILOM
ART
CITY PU LSE
THEATRE At 25 years, Andrew Lloyd Webber’s The Phantom of the Opera holds the record for the longest running Broadway musical. It has seven Tonys among its 50 major theatre awards and now it’s in Bangkok. The Phantom tells the story of a disfigured musical genius who lives under the Paris Opera House, and his tragic obsession with a beautiful soprano, Christine. But Christine loves Raoul. Catch the action THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA from May 7-June 9 at Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre (99 Esplanade Shopping Centre Ratchadapisek Rd, 02-262-3456). Tickets are B1500-5500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
There’s a double-header at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, www.bacc.or.th) until May 26, including the pictures, sculptures and videos that form Pharmacide Arts. It highlights the trade in counterfeit medicine, estimated at 5 to 10 percent of the total global pharmaceutical market, and as much as 90 percent of online purchases. Running alongside is Counterfeit Goods, an exhibition of fake products lent by the Tilleke & Gibbins Museum of Counterfeit Goods. Entrance is free.
GERRIT ENGEL
The exhibition Gerrit Engel: Berlin is billed as “German objectivity meets architectural history”. In it, the architect and photographer shows 42 images against a white sky, described as passport photos for buildings. See it at the ASA Centre (Fl 5, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd; tel: 02-658-1000, www. siamdiscovery.co.th) from May 7-31.
CLASSICAL On May 11, the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) hosts Douceur Venant de France, billed as a romantic flute concert by Michel Moragues and Yae Ram Park. The organisers say, intriguingly: “The main concept of this concert is to feel sweetness and energy from a piece of dark chocolate”. The show starts at 8pm; tickets are B600. bangkok101.com
PHARMACIDE ARTS
FESTIVAL The ancient Brahmin Royal Ploughing Ceremony at Sanam Luang features a series of rituals on May 13 to welcome the rice-growing season. Chanting monks provide the soundscape as cattle are given different foods to choose from, including water, beans and rice wine. Their top pick is believed to predict the coming harvest. M AY 2 0 1 3 | 9
CITY PU LSE
hot plates
Appia
by Howard Richardson
J
arret Wrisley, the owner of Thai diner Soul Food Mahanakorn, has now diversified into Italian with the opening of Appia, named after Via Appia, the most important road in the Roman Empire which was built over 2000 years ago. You can still drive parts of its cobbled streets in the Italian capital, and it was close to here that Jarret’s partner, chef Paulo Vitaletti, was raised. The restaurant has a seam of tradition running from a sloping barn-like roof to ironwork chandeliers and a logo weathered, as though unearthed from an archeological dig. There’s a bar at the end of the narrow room with displays of cold cuts, salads and blackboard menus. And loud chatter creates a welcoming, inebriated sound as you arrive to sample the ‘Roman family recipes’ of Paulo’s Mama, who takes charge of the kitchen. We got off to a bad start, though. Chicken broth (B220) arrived with totally unseasoned quadrucci pasta, cooked super al dente, even by Roman standards, and in so large a quantity it buried any flavour in a soup that was strangely insipid, despite the stated addition of bottarga and parmesan. Much better was the tasty capresi in puglia (B400), with luscious aubergine, burrata cheese and juicy, marinated cooked tomatoes. Unfortunately, we’d ordered it, intrigued by the listed mackerel pancetta, which was off, although no one mentioned it before serving. A bigger hit was the cavatelli pasta (B350) with rich lamb shoulder ragu, a slight sweetness from caramelised carrot fondue and a pleasing undercurrent of fennel seed. With pasta pellets and not much sauce, the dish may be a bit dry for some but I loved it. There’s a thoughtful wine list to wash it down (B900-7000), including labels such as Telmo Rodriguez, plus four each of red and white by the glass (B240-350). Appia is a just couple of months old, so the hiccups are likely down to staff training and the problems of transferring a-bit-of-this, a-bit-of-that home recipes to the demands of restaurant consistency. It’s a likeable place, with an interesting menu and lots of big flavours – once it’s settled we expect a very solid performer.
แอปเปีย สุขุมวิท 31 APPIA
[MAP 3/K7]
20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-261-2056 www.appia-bangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6.30am-10.30pm 1 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 11
OOH
LA LA! A travelling smorgasbord of French culture
rolls up in Bangkok. Words by Tom Sturrock
Y
ou've probably only just finished drying all your clothes after Songkran but, as is the way in Bangkok, it's already time for another festival. Fortunately, La Fete, a cross-cultural celebration of all things French, promised to be slightly less chaotic than the Thai New Year craziness. It all kicks off on May 17 and runs until June 22 so there's plenty of opportunity to get involved. We've picked out a few highlights but check out www.lafete-bangkok. com/en for more information.
OPERA LES MAMELLES DE TIRÉSIAS [MAP 8/Q9] Thailand Cultural Centre, 14 Ratchadapisek Rd, Huai Khwang www.thaiticketmajor.com | May 17-19
To commemorate the 50th death anniversary of Francis 1 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
best of bangkok
CITY PU LSE
Poulenc, one of the greatest 20th-century French composers, La Fete will open with his comic opera, Les Mamelles de Tirésias. It tells the story of Therese, who decides to become a man to take over and settle the issue of gender equality between men and women. Nicolas Kruger will conduct the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra and soprano Pauline Courtin. This Frenchspirited opera will be staged by the Thai NUNi company (Never Underestimate New Ideas).
DANCE TRANSPORT EXCEPTIONNELS [MAP 2/G8] 498 soi Rhamkhamhaeng 39 (Thep Leela 1) Wangthonglan www.lfib.ac.th/en | June 12-13
Referencing the two French constructions now going on in Bangkok, the new French Embassy, Rue de Brest and the new Alliance Française in Lumpini, Transport Exceptionnels is an unexpected duo between a dancer and an excavator, a poetic 25-minutes dialogue between man and machine, set to an opera score. After having performed in the world’s most extraordinary places, such as the square in front of Sydney’s Opera House or Monaco’s harbour, Transport Exceptionnels (main image) make a stop in Bangkok.
MUSIC LIMOUSINE SIAM ROADS [MAP 5/K8] Cafe Chez Pepin 186/3 Soi Suanplu 1, Sathon facebook.com/lapagepepin | May 27-June 3
Despite their opposing styles, French group Limousine and Thai Yodh Warong were destined to meet, bringing together a mixture of Parisian pop, jazz and folk with popular Isan music. After the French group made a trip to Isan in 2011 to work with Yodh, the project Limousine Siam Roads was born – an album accompanied by photography from Agnès Dherbeys.
LIMOUSINE SIAM ROADS
DANCE ERECTION [MAP 8/J14] Sodsai Pantoomkomol Centre for Dramatic Arts | Chulalongkorn University. 254 Phayathai Road, Pathumwan | June 7-8
Pierre Rigal's solo dance tells the story of evolution, of the human struggle to go from lying down to standing up, in a show mixing physical performance and visual effects. An intense and futuristic show, this psychic and poetic performance has been acclaimed in many cities.
SCIENCE WATER AT THE HEART OF SCIENCE [MAP 1/E5] Klong 5, Rangsit, Nakhon Nayok Rd, Pathum Thani May 20-July 20 |
In the framework of the UN International Year of Water Co-operation, this exhibition is both entertaining and educational, tackling all the main water-related issues and highlighting shared solutions. Abundant but precious, vital but sometimes devastating, water is a natural resource at the crossroads of several major contemporary issues.
PHOTOGRAPHY VERTICAL/HORIZONTAL [MAP 8/J13] Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd, Pathumwan www.en.bacc.or.th | May 31-June 30
Françoise Huguier explores the architectural and personal bangkok101.com
ERECTION M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 3
CITY PU LSE
best of bangkok
YO GEE TI
environment of the middle-class in three Southeast Asian megalopolises, using her unique touch. After being awarded the Paris Beaux-Arts Academy Photography Prize for this project, which was exhibited there at the end of 2012, Françoise Huguier will be in Bangkok for the BACC opening.
DANCE YO GEE TI [MAP 8/K10] Aksra Theatre King Power, 8/1 Rangnam, Phayathai Rd, Ratchathewi www.thaiticketmajor.com | May 25
A magical union between fashion and choreography, Yo Gee Ti gathers 10 French and Taiwanese dancers, coming
Mourad Merzouki, choreographer of Yo Gee Ti, speaks to us about her piece and her upcoming visit. What's your background? Does it inform your work? It all started with circus. First, I was an acrobat and I had a passion for performing arts. Hip hop dance allowed me to bring both together. I also had a strong desire to share and introduce this form of art to the public. What is Yo Gee Ti about? This piece doesn’t really tell a story, it is inspired by a sound designer I met in Taiwan – Yo Gee Ti means ‘organic’ – it’s the reaction I had when I first discovered his work. What I particularly like is to mix French and Taiwanese, hip hop and contemporary dance. What does Yo Gee Ti say about French dance – or French art in general? In the stage direction, in the music choices, in the dance itself, we can identify my work and my style. In this piece and in my work in general, hip-hop dance is at the service of the choreographic writing, which is quite specific to France.
1 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
from contemporary and hip hop backgrounds, and turns them into needles knitting invisible yarn. A subtle oeuvre, poetic and energetic at once, it impresses all the senses with beautiful scenes, captivating music, breathtaking sets and lighting.
MUSIC & FILM WRONG DISCO [MAP 8/F16] Viva Aviv, B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd vivaaviv.com | June 8 Chris Marker’s La Jetée (The Pier), which is widely considered one of the most influential science-fiction films ever made, was released 50 years ago. Commemorating this anniversary,
Where are the dancers from? How demanding is the performance? The cast features both Taiwanese and French dancers. The French dancers come from hip-hop dance, so it includes a lot of self-teaching, they don’t come from conservatoire either. This performance is very demanding in the sense that these dancers did not know each other, so they had a lot to learn from each other. What was the biggest challenge in choreographing this piece? What was the most satisfying part? The biggest challenge in this piece was not to emphasize one culture or one form of dance compared to the other. I had to find the right balance between both, and that is actually what is the most satisfying afterwards. I think we succeeded. Are you looking forward to visiting Bangkok? Have you been here before? Yes, I've been to Bangkok before with another piece and I remember the warmful welcome we had. The audience was very receptive, curious and generous. I hope we will have the same this time.
bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
best of bangkok
HIP HOP BATTLE
Bangkok’s party collective Wrong Disco is inviting cutting-edge and respected Thai and French DJs to create a new soundtrack to the movie. Inspired by La Jetée, the artists will offer a new score to the movie through their different music styles and liveperformances.
DANCE HIP HOP BATTLE [MAP 5/K7] Alliance Française Bangkok | www.afthailande.org | May 26
Hip hop dancers will be coming from all over Thailand to compete in a festive and friendly spirit, featuring Mourad Merzouki on the jury. It promises to be a show on and off stage with the public expected to turn out in droves to support their favourite performers.
MUSIC FETE DE LA MUSIQUE [MAP 8/K12] ZEN Dpt Store, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd, Pathum Wan zen.co.th/en_happenings | June 15
La Fete in Bangkok will end with music by inviting everyone to get together with the popular event created in Paris in 1982 and now organised in more than one hundred cities all over the world. In Bangkok, the Fete de la Musique will take place at one of the most popular places in the city centre, with a stage filled with Thai and French music groups, including Wax Tailor, one of the most popular artists of the international electro scene. Defying classification but drawing on African-American sounds and 1960s pop, the French composer-arranger, who is releasing his fourth album, has travelled all over the world performing his amazing shows to rapturous audiences. 1 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
FETE DE LA MUSIQUE bangkok101.com
THE REBIRTH OF
Q BAR
One of Bangkok's best-known nightspots is reinventing itself with a new roster of events that offers plenty for girls out on the prowl for male eye candy. BY TOM STURROCK
1 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
been recruited to dance on Wednesdays, admits he was surprised by how amorous the women in the audience can become. "The ladies were quite wild but we don't really take it seriously," he says. "We are not trying to be too sexy – it's a funny party. "We are trying to be different from other clubs. We are trying to make something more special, higher quality for our customers. We don't have the same crowd as other clubs. We have farang dancers and Thai dancers as well – it's a great way to satisfy everyone." Striking a balance between attracting the usual expat revellers and appealing to the locals is a priority for Q Bar – although soi 11 has traditionally been a hub for farang, it is several rungs above the backpacker bars of Khao San bangkok101.com
Pics: Thered Redone/Jumpeega Saengchat/siam2nite.com
S
ince it first opened 14 years ago, Q Bar has become one of the most famous landmarks on Bangkok's nightscape. Tucked around the corner at the top end of Sukhumvit Soi 11, the New York-style lounge and club boasts an eclectic, international crowd while also attracting its share of local party animals. Although Q Bar has already found an apparently successful formula, change is in the wind, with a series of events and new regular nights rolling out this month. Possibly the most eye-catching of the lot is Wednesday's ladies night – sure, plenty of bars and clubs in Bangkok have a mid-week ladies night, but Q Bar is going the extra mile by bringing in a crew of male dancers for its event, dubbed 'Magic Mike'. Sam Carter, one of Q Bar's promoters who has also
out and about
Rd and is gradually drawing trendy young Thais from their enclaves in Thong Lor and Ekkamai. According to forwardthinking general manager Zoltan Zakor, Q Bar's appeal is uniquely broad. "Q Bar has been open for 14 years and is quite famous, and is one of the most recommended – I still believe in soi 11, we offer a package," he says. "People come to some of the restaurants and then stop off for a cocktail and then go clubbing to Levels, Bed, Q Bar, Bash. "Even though Q Bar is so well-known, it still has to do something new. It has a more mature crowd and I hear so many stories from people who have come back again and again for many years. "They were here at the opening party and have come here for 14 years. But so many new places have opened along Sukhumvit. The competition is huge – it's not enough for Q Bar to just be well-established." Zoltan's background is in running upscale events back in Hungary and he has brought that sense of scale – of putting on a show – to the clubs of Bangkok, having run bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
COMING UP AT Q BAR Wednesdays: Magic Mike is Ladies Night, with the sexiest male dancers in town. Thursdays: UB Rising delivers an authentic experience for electronic music lovers. Fridays: Glamourpuss is reviving old-school chic, with classic Hollywood beauties and dashing leading men. Sundays: It's Sucka Free and it's the best Sunday night hip hop party in Bangkok.
Special event: DJ Biz Markie has been entertaining artists since the 80s with his comedic style of MCing and he'll be appearing at Q Bar on May 8. Levels before joining Q Bar recently. "I'm really ambitious. The next six months, there will be big changes in Q Bar. We want to build up all the nights with special events," he says. "I brought a different kind of perspective – how can we entertain people? Not just a DJ, but beyond that." M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 9
THE FULL GAMUT OF THAI FOOD 2 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
ToTwmo ’Ssatang
Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON THAI FOOD
A
s a major foodie and a restaurateur, I’m often asked about the best restaurant to have Thai food. Being flippant, sometimes I say my own place. Each Thai has their own favourite food and our palates are different. My genuine answer is that there’s never just one place to enjoy Thai culinary art. Instead, one should explore and experience the whole gamut of Thai food, from street stalls to royal Thai cuisine. Like France, Italy and China, Thailand has a long history and obsession with food. Cuisines from Thailand come from diverse regions, cultures, cooking styles, levels of sophistication and inspiration. To enjoy Thai food, I would recommend that one should understand some basic flavours and styles. Influenced by our indigenous produces as well as neighbouring countries, Thai cuisine offers a wide range of tastes. Local flavours from herbs, spices and raw vegetables give the rudimentary but distinctively blended taste that comes in chilli relishes and spicy salads. They are the core of Thai cuisine and are found in all regions in different guises. Four flavours of sweet, sour, salty and bitter are combined and balanced with added piques from spices and chillis. These flavours are then carried on into Thai soups with more fresh herbs and meat. The predecessors and neighbours influenced our cooking, creating a melting pot. The Mons who lived in the Central Plains used coconut and its milk for centuries. This plant and its fruit produces several ingredients in Thai cooking, throughout savoury to sweet dishes. They probably made Khanom Jeen, fermented rice noodles, before anyone else. While the Chinese gave us steamers and woks to stir-fry and fry things, Indians, Persians and Muslims influenced Thais with blended spices, curries, roti and martabak. Vietnamese showed us the rice papers and wafer-thin crepes. Even the Portuguese brought in luscious eggbased desserts during the late Ayutthaya Period. What is authentic Thai food anyway but an amalgam of perfectly fused imported fare? Once you recognise this, you will appreciate what you try more. Let’s start with street food: some of these delectable nibbles cannot be found in restaurants. Also, you have to know that each stall or small shop
bangkok101.com
specialises in one or two items. Thais like to add condiments: sugar, fish sauce, vinegar, dried chillis, crushed peanuts and lime wedges help add zing and dimension. The chef will not be offended. The next style is regional food. Thailand is made up of five different culinary regions: North, Northeast, Central Plains, East, and South. Pick a small shop or restaurant that specialises in one. The most common and popular is Northeast Thai cuisine, with grilled meats, spicy salads of green papaya, larb or salad of minced meat with crushed toasted rice, spicy soup of entrails and steamed sticky rice are some of local favorites. The North offers a lot of pork dishes such as spicy sausages and pork curry as well as indigenous aromatic herbs. A well-known Northern dish, Khao Soy, flat egg noodles in curries of chicken or beef, comes from the Haw Chinese, who are Muslims. The East is abundant with seafood and fruits. Some interestingly sweet but tangy taste feature in the salads and curries from this region. The South has a variety of extremely spicy dishes in soups and curries. The Central Plains is possibly the most complex one since it is influenced by Chinese, Mons and Muslims. Widely available river fish and prawns make food from the central region even lusher. M AY 2 0 1 3 | 2 1
S N A P S H OT S
very thai
F FANCY BUGGING OUT? CREEPY-CRAWLIES ARE RICH IN PROTEIN
ried chicken may come with two legs per bird, but another deep-fried Thai treat boasts up to ten smaller, but scrumptious legs: insects. For centuries a nutritious nibble for impoverished farmers from the northeast, insects have now become a staple snack among urbanites. Bugs fall officially into two categories: malaeng (six legs with head, thorax and abdomen) or maeng (eight or ten legs, just two sections and no wings). However, most insects are simply called maeng, like maeng da, a water beetle resembling a large green cockroach. Although the appearance of insects puts off many foreigners, these alien-looking scavengers are essentially prawns of the land, pound for pound (and it takes 30,000 termites to make a pound), bugs match the nutrition of freshwater fish and prawns. Bombay locusts are 25.88 percent protein, giant crickets pack 20.72 percent and the greatest energy of any bug: 237.26 kcal per 100 grams. No wonder entomologists and the national institute of Thai traditional Medicine champion their health beneits. So what do insects taste like? Mot som are tangy like their name: sour ants. Their large soft white eggs burst on the tongue like sacs of soft cheese. Other bugs have a gamey twang, though frying renders many quite alike to the novice.
> Very Thai
River Books | with photos by John Goss & Philip CornwelSmith | B 995
Very Thai – Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus minichapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any good book shop. 2 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
chronicle of thailand
S N A P S H OT S
MAY 13 1982
COMMUNIST DEFECTIONS GATHER PACE
REBELS WEAKENED AS AMNESTY OFFER AND DRUG COUNTER-INSURGENCY TAKES ITS TOLL ON CPT
L
OUS
armed
L
t Gen Prayoon Boonnak claimed the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT) was in its death throes and his words proved prophetic when a week later Chiang Rai Thai fo nearly 500 insurgents surrendered in the area between Loei, Phitsanulok, against drug lord K and Phetchabun. Insurgency leaders said government operations had inflicted opium heavy casualties on the CPT and hundreds more world surrender soon.his By200-mule midSeveral thous June, 3000 people had surrendered in the north and northeast. planes and helic Two months later, 7,400 Hmong hill-tribe fighters marched down frombythe stronghold at Ban mountain in Phetchabun province to defect en masse after a long fight against (SUA). At the government. The military built houses in a new settlement for the Hmong. In least 1,00 fierce September, one of the founding members of the CPT, Udom Srisuwan, as and his fighting fla wife, ‘Comrade’ Maitri, surrendered to authorities in Bangkok. Udom was theAfter Thai and a truce proposal p highest-ranking CPT member to surrender yet. He had attended the MarxistTinsulanond Leninist Institute in Moscow and was the only member of the Thai politburo who stated narcotics traffickin could speak Russian fluently. Later in the year, the government scored a huge psychological victorycontinue when its drive a destroyed.” It was nearly 5000 insurgents and sympathisers in Mukdahan and Tak provinces of the region’s hero defected en masse on the 40th anniversary of founding of the CPT. A veteran extensive jungle fighter who led the surrender said they decided to give up because the headqua and equipment as government agreed to treat them with honour and dignity. The government’s successes came following a succession of directives In July, Khun troops, under the Prem administration that sought to offer amnesties to rebels who laidfought aga side of Doi Lang m down their arms and to tackle the insurgency from its root causes.
Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivide eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
> Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief
21 January Nicholas1982 Grossman | B1,450
> Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
Chiang Rai provinc displaced hundred Border Patrol Polic Sa’s new base on constructed 200 b
Chronicle of Thailand is the s Adulyadej. Beginning on the presents a vivid eye-witness major news events of the las as they unfolded and quirky the news, the book features t illustrations, representing on Thailand ever produced.
still life in moving vehicles
SAY HELLO TO
GOLDEN BOY I
n this land, Gumonthong is a Thai spirit that appears in the form of a baby boy who is believed to bring good luck to his animist followers. His name basically means “golden boy”, hence the fake gold that adorns his upper body and traditional Siamese top-knot hairdo. Worshippers, including the driver of this taxi, like to make offerings of red Fanta soda to him (in this case, in a yogurt cup). And apparently, he likes to ride motorcycles, too.
CiTy vS. COUNTRy
This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. M AY 2 0 1 3 | 2 3
bangkok101.com bangkok101.com
SIGHTSEEI NG
highlight
THAI FILM MUSEUM
L
ittle remains of Thailand’s film heritage; a few rusty cans of ragged 16mm film reels, the odd stall selling vintage movie posters, a handful of destined-tobe-demolished old cinemas, and the fond but fading memories of those who used to visit them. But the National Film Archive of Thailand, a public organisation in Nakhom Pathom province, is singlehandedly preserving what remains, be it by restoring said reels of film to something like their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around its museum – for free. If you’re into Thai films, just go. Seriously, you’ll love inching around this nook-filled, two-storey space modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio, even if it is a pain to find and the guides do only speak Thai. No where else in the country can you see such a quirky cavalcade of Thai cinematic curios – old film cameras, projectors, props, costumes, posters and other ephemera. In one corner, behind a door with a loose door number “6” (a reference to Pen-Ek Ratanaruang’s 6ixtynin9), are props from action films like 1963’s Singh Lae Singh. In another, a desk belonging to late director/screenwriter VichitKounavudhi sits beside the Polaroid camera from horror flick Shutter. And another still stashes props from Nonzee Nimibutr’s 1999 retelling of ghost tale Nang Nak, including a mummy-like model of Mae Nak herself. 2 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
A staircase leads past photos of giant, hand-painted film advertising billboards from the 1960s, and assorted film awards and framed soundtrack long-players, including one for Mon Rak Luk Thung, the classic 1970 musical starring superstars Mitr Chaibancha and Petchara Yaowarat. This pair were – and still are – considered Thailand’s most iconic on-screen duo. The museum’s showpiece, though, is the space devoted to RD Pestonji, whose singular directorial work in the 50s, 60s and 70s made him, though not quite a household name, undoubtedly one of the pioneer’s of Thai cinema. Because they were shot on 35mm film stock not cheaper 16mm, most of his films survive today and are available for purchase here on DVD. Alongside a wax figure of him, sat on his beloved 35mm camera, and a photo of him receiving an award from Alfred Hitchcock, there is a recreation of the well-stocked bar from Rong Ram Narok, or Country Hotel, his entertaining 1957 romp about a vaudevillian cast of characters who stay at a hotel. It’s free but don’t leave without making a donation to this overstretched and under-funded organisation.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom 02-482-2013 | www.fapot.or | Weekend tours 10, noon, 3pm bangkok101.com
highlight
SIGHTSEEI NG
"YOU’LL LOVE THIS NOOK-FILLED SPACE MODELLED AFTER THE OLD SRI KUNG FILM STUDIO"
bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 2 5
SIGHTSEEI NG
listings
HISTORIC HOMES
SHRINES
19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd
Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan
Uthong Nai Rd, opp. Dusit Zoo
BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185
BTS Chit Lom
Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | B150
Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 5 pm, Mon – Fri by
Don’t expect serenity here. This is one
dress politely
appt. only | B 50 / B 20 kids
of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the
Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s
Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-
crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god
stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam
loved statesmen of the 20th century. A
Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled
noen, this stately parliamentary palace
natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer
with worshippers lighting incense, buying
was built during the reign of Rama V and
and even served as prime minister. His
lottery tickets and watching the traditional
completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara
peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a
dancing group.
marble, it is still used for the ceremonial
terrific example of Thai architecture.
บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้
พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ
opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [MAP 5/H8]
ERAWAN SHRINE [MAP 4/G5]
ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL [MAP 8/F8]
GANESHA SHRINE [MAP 4/G3]
interior is decorated with detailed frescoes
Outside CentralWorld and Isetan
by Italian Galileo Chini of royal
Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd
ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a
A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold
statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is
พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม ถ.อู่ทองใน ดุสิต
said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai
VIMANMEK MANSION [MAP 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd
desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน
02-281-1569 | 9:30 am – 4 pm | B100
The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang,
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd
in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over
BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368
three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
www.jimthompsonhouse.com
พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสิต
9 am – 5 pm | B100 / B 50 students
American Jim Thompson was the Princeton
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE [MAP 8/K11]
TRIMURTI SHRINE [MAP 4/G3]
graduate and former spook who revived
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi
Outside Centralworld and Isetan
the hand-woven Thai silk industry before
BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934
Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd
disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s
www.suanpakkad.com | 9 am – 4 pm | B100
If your love life is in the doldrums then this
Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the
A former market garden that was converted
shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday
things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical
into a residence and garden by Princess
it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends
garden home beside a pungent canal: six
Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed
from the heavens to answer prayers of the
traditional teak houses from around the
Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard
heart. To maximise your chances you should
country kept exactly as he left them.
pays testament to her dedication to
offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles,
บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ
collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
red roses and fruit.
วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี
พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน
2 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
listings
SIGHTSEEI NG
TEMPLES TEMPLES
THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [MAP 7/D10]
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) [MAP 7/D12]
Chakkraphatdiphong Rd
Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd
02-233-4561 | 7:30 am – 5:30 pm | B10
Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094
02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com
Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on
8:30 am – 4:30 pm | B 400 incl. entry to
8am – noon; 1 pm – 9 pm | B100
a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps
Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully
The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is
for the views of Chinatown to the south and
Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and
the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok.
the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is
top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city
Originating in the 16th century, it houses the
left of the fortifications for a large chedi that
sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly
largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand
Rama III planned to construct on the site that
crenulated whitewalls. Building began in
as well as the greatest number of Buddha
gave way under the weight. Rama V later
1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and
images.
built a smaller chedi on top.
every monarch subsequent to King Rama
วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน
วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์
WAT SAKET [MAP 7/L8]
I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแก้ว ถ.หน้าพระลาน (ใกล้สนามหลวง)
WAT ARUN [MAP 7/B13] Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd
Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd
WAT MAHATHAT [MAP 7/C8]
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING [MAP 7/H9]
02-221-5999 | 9 am – 5 pm | free
Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632
An amulet market is situated near this 18th
9 am – 5 pm | B 20
century centre of the Mahanikai monastic
Wat Suthat is one of the most important
sect and an important university of Buddhist
Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home
teaching. On weekends, market stalls are
to excellent examples of bronze sculpture.
set up on the grounds to complement the
The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave
vendors of traditional medicines.
men used to swing up to great heights to
วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง
catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
Arun Pier | 02-465-5640 www.watarun.org | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20
WAT RATCHANATDA [MAP 7/K8]
วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำ�รุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสา ชิงช้า
Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun,
Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807
or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s
9 am – 5 pm | free
most important religious sites. Before being
This striking temple on the corner of
moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald
Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road
661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen
Buddha was temporarily housed here. The
features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multi-
Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20
five-towered structure is covered in colourful
tiered castle-like structure with 36 steel
Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown
porcelain and designed as a representation
spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top
temple is the world’s largest solid gold
of the Khmer home of the gods.
for good views of the Old City and its many
Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at
วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำ�เจ้าพระยา
temples.
over US$10 million.
วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร
วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำ�โพง (เยาวราช)
bangkok101.com
WAT TRAIMIT [MAP 6/L3]
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 2 7
SIGHTSEEI NG
listings
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN
MADAME TUSSAUDS [MAP 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Center
BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [MAP 8/L11, 12]
MUSEUM OF SIAM [MAP 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier
Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd
02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th
BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060
Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | free
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng),
www.madametussauds.com/Bangkok/
A truncated history of Thailand unfurls
Ratchaprarop Rd
10 am – 9 pm | B 800 / B 600 kids /
through this down-with-the-kids discovery
02-245-3008 | www.bangkokdolls.com
15 % discount for online
museum, located in a beautifully restored
Mon – Sat 8 am – 5 pm | free
Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s
former government building that dates back
Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll
version of Europe's famous waxwork
to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc!
Museum has continually attracted tourists,
museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed
delivered the conceptual design, replacing
students and aficionados alike with its
to keep tourists and locals alike snappy
the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and dreary text
remarkable collection of hand-made Thai
happy. About as common as international
with pop graphics and interactive games
dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn
sporting legends, world leaders in sharp
galore. Entertaining highlights include
Chandavimol after she completed a doll
suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and
dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-
making course in Japan, it showcases
sequined global pop stars here are wax
collections of dolls produced by a small team
likenesses of Thai and regional musicians,
back with a canon (a bit tasteless that one),
of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in
soap stars, sportsmen and women.
and mapping out the borders of your own
traditional costumes based on designs lifted
มาดามทุซโซ สยามดิสคัฟเวอรี่ ชั้น 6
from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
บ้านตุ๊กตาบางกอกดอลล์ ถ.ราชปรารภ
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] 26th F, Supalai Grand Tower Bldg
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3]
Siam using a touch screen.
พิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang
Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555
02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum.com
273 Charoen Krung Soi 43,
www.tillekeandgibbins.com
Wed – Sun 9 am – 4 pm | B 200 | no photo
Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027
Mon – Fri 10 am – 4 pm / App. required
Previously a palace during the reign of
Sat & Sun 10 am – 4 pm | free
for textile and computer collections
Rama V, the National Museum features
Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the
In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law
extensive displays of Thai artifacts from
most traditional districts of the city, find this
firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert
all of Old Siam's main historical periods,
oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one
their evidence of counterfeit goods into
encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and
of them lovingly converted into a private
educational tools for law students. To help
Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present
museum by the compound’s charming
spread the word about the perils of buying
day. Thai culture is well documented in
owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She
fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500
sections on dance, music and drama. The
decided to dedicate the place to the
items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates
first example of Thai literature and the Thai
memory of her family and bygone daily
to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari
alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng
life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to
motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next
on a black stone during the Sukhothai
the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect
to the originals. While its well off-the-beaten
period, is also displayed. Free tours by the
breathtaking revelations here, the displays
track location means it doesn't see too many
Natonal Museum Volunteers group are given
are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating.
drop-in visitors.
in English, French, German and Japanese.
They include antiques and ceremonial items.
พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3
พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ท้องสนามหลวง
พิพิธภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก ถ.เจริญกรุง 43 2 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
listings RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [MAP 7/K7]
SIRIRAJ MEDICAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/A7]
SIGHTSEEI NG
OUT OF TOWN
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd,
Siriraj Hospital | 2 Prannok Rd
next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044
Thonburi Railway Pier
ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [MAP 1/F6]
www.nitasrattanakosin.com
02-419-7000-6363 | www.si.mahidol.ac.th
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd
Tue – Fri 11 am – 8 pm;
Mon – Sat 9 am – 4 pm | B 40
Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644
Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 8 pm | B100
Located on the west bank of the river, in
www.ancientcity.com
This multimedia museum a short walk from
Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious
B 500 / B 250 kids / B1,500 private guide
Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated
hospital, the Siriraj Medical Museum is
in English for 2 hours
introduction to an area that many admire, but
chiefly an educational facility where trainee
Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam
few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island,
medical students come to take notes and
crams reproductions of over a hundred of
Bangkok’s glittering
harden their stomachs. However, fans of
the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces,
birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms –
the macabre can also pay a visit. Of its
temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and
free of relics but rich in models, dioramas,
many chilling displays, far and away the
traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam
interactive videos, text and audio clips in
most famous is the crisped cadaver of Si
shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive
Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-
Ouey, Thailand’s notorious child killer, stood
from the capital. Don’t come expecting a
to-fathom history, arts, communities,
in a phone booth. Other stomach-churning
tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric
architecture and traditions into much clearer
exhibits include the mummified remains
culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun,
focus. One highlight is the room showcasing
of murder victims, and deformed human
demanded that every replica look and feel
Thai performing arts; another sheds light
foetuses embalmed in formaldehyde. Best
like the real thing.
on the trade specialities of local shophouse
come before lunch, just to err on the safe
เมืองโบราณ จ.สมุทรปราการ
communities.
side.
นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง
พิพิธภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศิริราช ถ.พรานนก
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya
YAOWARAT CHINATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE [MAP 6/L3]
Nakorn Pathom province
80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier
Wat Traimit, 661 Mittaphap Thai-China
Sat & Sun tours: 10 am, noon, 3 pm;
02-424-0004 | 9 am – 5:00 pm
Rd, Charoen Krung Rd |MRT Hua Lamphong
Mon – Fri: by appointment | Free
B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video
| 02-225-9775 |Tue – Sun 8 am – 4:30 pm |
The good folk at the National Film Archive
This collection of ornate royal barges,
B100 / B140 incl. visit to the Golden Buddha
of Thailand are fighting to preserve the
some of which are up to 50 metres long,
For Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese the story of
country’s meagre film heritage, whether it
is housed on the Thonburi side of the river
how their forefathers fled here on leaking
be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to
in a series of elaborate sheds near the
junk ships and rose to become an affluent
their former glory, screening rare films in its
Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen
and fully integrated force in Thai society is
cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested
in action during rare ceremonial processions
likely familiar, having been drip-fed to them
around their museum. Film fiends will love
on the Chao Phraya where the colourful
over the years by their elders. But for the rest
inching around this space, modelled after the
crews can number up to 64, including
of us, the Chinatown Heritage Centre is the
old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old
rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and
next best thing.
cameras, projectors, props, costumes.
various musicians.
ศูนย์ประวัติศาสตร์เยาวราช ถ.มิตรภาพไทย-จีน
พิพิธภัณฑ์ภาพยนตร์ไทย ถ.พุทธมนฑล สาย 5
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [MAP 7/B4]
พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์
bangkok101.com
www.nfat.org | 02-482-2013-15
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 2 9
TOP OF THE GULF REGATTA 3 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
TOP OF THE GULF
JOMTIEN BEACH I
t’s the ninth year of the Top of the Gulf Regatta and the keelboats, multihulls and catamarans again setting off from Jomtien Beach, just down the coast from Pattaya. The events stretch across the first weekend of the month, from May 3-7, giving you plenty of time to head south and take in at least part of the racing programme. Pattaya seems like the place to be this month – check out p32-33 for some of the other events going on – and while some of the fare is in the chaotic centre, the regatta has the advantage of taking visitors a little further afield, further south from Pattaya’s swirling neon-lit heart. There’s never a dull moment along this stretch of coast but the presence of the regatta ensures the social calendar will be even more full. Each night after the races, you’ll be able to kick back with a cocktail on the lawns of the Ocean Marina Yacht Club.
GETTING THERE:
Take a bus to Pattaya and then carry on to Jomtien by local bus or taxi bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 3 1
T R AV E L T R AV E L
up-country now
May 3 Miss Tiffany Universe Head down to Pattaya to watch around 30 of the Kingdom’s best-looking – or the most surgically chiselled – ladyboys strut their stuff at this world-famous annual beauty pageant. After swanning about the stage in ball gowns, glittering Vegascabaret style headdresses and skimpy bikinis, the ecstatic winner will be crowned Miss Tiffany Universe 2013. Can’t make it to see the show in Pattaya? The whole show will also be televised live on Channel 7 from 23.00-01.00. Tickets cost B1800-B2800 from www.thaiticketmajor.com.
May 4 Over Love Festival If Tiffany’s not the place for you to find the rhythm of love, don’t back away from Pattaya yet because the second edition of Over Love Music Festival has loads of it on offer. This festival brings together many renowned T-Pop musicians like Scrubb, Flure, Tattoo Coulour and many others, who will sing away their love stories in the middle of the gorgeous Silverlake Vineyard. Worry not about the language as love transcends all languages here. Tickets start at B1300 – find out more about at www. thaiticketmajor.com.
May 11 Three Museums in Nakorn Pathom The Siam Society organises an excursion to three museums in Nakorn Pathom. This trip of nostalgia will start at the House of Museum, where thousands of kitschy, hard-to-find daily objects areon display for visitors. If they aren’t enough to recall your past life as a Thai, perhaps the Thai Human Imagery Museum might work. Lastly, this excursion brings you to the Jesada Technik Museum, where you can see his old-time cars from the inside. Unfortunately though, they’re not available for a test drive. More info ekkarin@siam-society.org.
May 8-12 Thailand Motor Festival The name says it all – this festival is all about the Thai love affair with the automobile. If you’ve missed out on paying a visit to the Bangkok edition, Pattaya has another one coming up. Inspect some of the latest technological advances the car industry has introduced and see what beauties this festival has to offer. Getting from A to B doesn’t matter as much as doing it in style. Perhaps your next car is waiting for you in Chonburi. Check out www.thailandmotorfestival.com for more.
3 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
up-country now
T R AV E L
May 4-13 World Durian Festival You either loath it or love it and, believe it or not, the ‘King of Fruits’ has its own celebration, the World Durian Festival. Held each year, when the giant, pungent and spiky fruit is in season, this orgy of durian selling and feasting, which also includes a traditional fair and fruit contest, takes place in the eastern province of Chanthaburi, sometimes dubbed the ‘fruit bowl of Thailand’ due to its abundance of the stuff. Check out fruitfestivalchanthaburi.blogspot.com for more.
May 11-12 Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival One of the noisiest festivals on the calendar takes place in the usually sleepy Northeastern town of Yasothorn. For the Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival, farmers pack giant, ornate rockets (bang fai) full of homemade explosives, drag them on elaborate traditional carts to the launch sight and then, on the third day, fire them high into the sky. Why? According to folklore, the first raindrops of the rice planting season only fall when the gods are in the mood for love. Firing missiles in their direction is said to stimulate them into action. Lots of rambunctious Isan-style merriment – comedy, fun fairs, beauty contests, morlam folk music – accompany the festivities.
May 17-24 Inthakin City Pillar Festival Unique to Chiang Mai, this festival is held in order to pay respect to the guardian spirits that are believed to protect Chiang Mai from harm and to ensure prosperity for the city. The festival takes place over a period of six days, with different blessing rituals each day at several parts of the town. The festival is open for everybody with plenty of activities to do and to see – with processions ceremonies, cultural performances, dance displays and plenty of food and drinks. Go to www.tourismthailand.org for more info.
Until May 31 Unseen Fresh Water Jellyfish at Khao Ko National Park The craspedacusta sowerbyi or the fresh water jellyfish can only be found in six places of the world. Fortunately, the renowned eco-tourist destination Khao Ko National Park in Thailand’s northeast is one of them. May is the last month of the year in which these living fossils can be found in their natural habitat. Enjoy the deciduous forest with rare plants and diversity of animals on both sides of the Lam Namkeg, as you paddle along, searching for these rare freshwater animals. Check out www.tourismthailand.org.
bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 3 3
T R AV E L T R AV E L
hotel deals EXCLUSIVE SPECIAL PACKAGES
Until Oct 31
U CHIANG MAI 70 Ratchadamnoen Road, Chiang Mai | 053 327 000 | www.uchiangmai.com
The U Chiang Mai offers two wonderful getaway packages. Go on a journey exploring the Lanna culture and history with the U Discovery package. Otherwise, spoil yourself with the Royal Siam massage or the classical swedish massage by purchasing the U Spa package. The packages start from B5610 per night per package for a Superior Room and B6610 per night per package for a Deluxe Room, including many special benefits.
SPECIAL SUMMER RATES
Until Oct 31
AHMS RESORTS IN SAMUI, PHUKET AND HUA HIN 3 Soi Ladprao 95, Ladprao Road | 02-5148002 | www.ahmshotels.com
Enjoy a classy and elegant Hanumoon celebration at the Akaryn Samui Resort and Spa or enjoy the free flow of Siam Sunrise cocktails at the Akyra Chura Samui. If Samui is not on your route, perhaps enjoying the spa bliss at Aleenta Phuket Phan Nga Resort or treat yourself with a spa treatment at Aleenta Hua Hin Pranburi Resort and Spa. Check out the AHMS website and find out what more pleasant they have to offer this summer. Price ranges from B4400 to B7200.
Until May 31
FAMILY HOLIDAY PACKAGE CAPE DARA RESORT PATTAYA 256 Dara Beach, Pattaya Naklua Rd | 038-933888 | www.capedarapattaya.com
Stay at the five-star resort Cape Dara Pattaya and be closer to the stars with your family. Located on the idyllic Pattaya Bay, the Cape Dara Resort offers a perfect seaside retreat for you and your loved ones. The Family Holiday Package starts at B4599, allowing you to stay for a minimum of three nights to get a 10 percent extra discount. Find out more about the package at the Cape Dara Resort Pattaya website.
Until Oct 31
RELAX AND RETREAT CENTARA VILLAS PHUKET 701 Moo 1, Patak Rd, Phuket | 02-1011234 ext 1 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com Centara Villas Phuket is set at the Karon Beach, surrounded by tranquil hills, with the beach a few minutes’ walk down the steps from the resort’s pool area. The luxurious villas are all surrounded by gardens and offer a panoramic view of the ocean. The Relax and Retreat package starts at B5200 per night with a 20 percent discount on food, drinks and on all couple spa packages. For more details contact Centara Hotels and Resorts.
Until Oct 31
LONG STAY PACKAGE WAVE HOTEL PATTAYA 310/2 Beach Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi | 038-410577 | www.wavepattaya.com For all the trendy, hip and flashy vacationistas out there, this is your calling. The newly opened Wave Hotel Pattaya is inviting you to stay at this killer location in the middle of everything. Stay with this alluring boutique hotel decorated in Miami-chic style with a combination of edgy décor and cutting-edge technology for four nights and pay only for three included as part of the Long Stay Package.
Until Oct 31
GREAT GETAWAY PACKAGE X2 KUI BURI 52 Moo 13, Ao Noi, Hua Hin | 032-601412 | www.x2resorts.com Designed and built with a primary goal to satisfy the spirits, the X2 Kui Buri offers a two-night Getaway Package for to, starting from B8564. The deal includes accommodation in the Deluxe Pool Villa, daily Champagne Breakfast, one-time set dinner, one hour of aromatherapy massage and 30 percent discount on extra nights. Revel in the luxurious facilities and recreational activities the peaceful X2 Kui Buri has to offer. Make a reservation and regain your spiritual balance.
3 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
MAKING A MARK ON BANGKOK
rill wg e n s in t est hottue wine a grea s ' r t nglo t val elec Tho he bes m to s . k gko of t roo Ban some e wine n our ntowod and d to th m w o o r a o ef in d eaf , he win ork, shest s ysters ction. y Y r a w t a n do fre Ne lime wn ks, the shucke chefs in p o t m p f co of u stea shly hero tle o aste finest ome frech our t t o e th ts the ith s wat ab our d njoy e Sav m boasrm up wack an , re roo n. Wa n sit b r mo o e o w h w 13 to tle, t , 20 of t ” 30 e y l a bot tab llar until M very ine Ce April 15 e r Fo en W lid From “Opmotion va pply th
th
o a *Pr ions ndit *Co
BANGKOK MARRIOTT HOTEL SUKHUMVIT 2 Soi 57, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtan Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 t: +66 2 797 0400 | www.bangkokmarriott.com | bangkok101.com
facebook.com/MarriottSukhumvit M AY 2 0 1 3 | 3 5
HIDDEN TREASURES OF
PHUKET
island escape
T R AV E L
THAILAND’S LARGEST ISLAND HAS PLENTY OF STORIES TO TELL, PROVIDED YOU’RE WILLING TO BYPASS THE CLICHES, FOLLOW ROADS LESS TRAVELLED AND PAY ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS. BY SIMON OSTHEIMER
E
ver heard of Junk Ceylon? No? We’ll wager you have. Once marked on maps under this name by 19th-century European seafarers, it continues to attract foreign visitors to its shores. Where once they were lured by the promise of trade, then tin mining, these days the island’s main draw is tourism – in all its forms. We are, of course, talking about Phuket. Over on the west coast, the dubious charms of Patong Beach – it’s only one letter away from spelling Patpong for a reason – lure in the single male crowd, who are drawn nightly like moths to the flame by the neon-lit bar signs, ever-flowing cheap alcohol, and promise of hospitable company for the evening. However, Phuket offers a wealth of attractions and areas far away from the wellworn cliches, places where the island’s colourful history is not the distant, forgotten past, but instead a living, breathing part of the present. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the streets of the charming provincial capital: Phuket Town. Its lanes lined with Sino-colonial style shophouses, the city’s architecture will seem familiar to travellers who have spent time in either Penang or Malacca. The link between the three goes beyond the mere structural, as the Chinese immigrants of all three settlements have a shared history and are collectively known as the Baba Nyonya or Peranakan. The children of many wealthy Phuket Chinese were sent to the Penang capital George Town for a British education, and even to this day links remain between their Thai and Malaysian descendants. While the fortunes of Phuket receded over time, as the tin that fuelled the boom times lost its lustre, the splendid buildings remained, although many of them slowly fell into disrepair. However, in recent years Phuket Town has experienced a renaissance, as shown by the appearance of Blue Elephant. The renowned culinary group recently opened its latest cooking school and restaurant in the former Governor’s Mansion, which was described by historian Ping Amranand as: “The grandest angmor- lao [foreign mansion] in Phuket Town, and to many the most distinguished, is the ochre-hued Italianate Phra Phitak Chyn Pracha Mansion.” Already a popular tourist destination, it is just one of many restored properties that are attracting customers. Elsewhere, on nearby Phang Nga Road is Siam Indigo, a French-run bistro and boutique that occupies two adjoining 80-year-old shophouses, with their distinctive ‘ngon-kaa-kee’ or five-foot way, the covered archways that link one building to the next. However, the best example of the town’s unique cultural heritage lies along the narrow Soi Romanee. Despite its small size, this one-way lane is home to the island’s
T R AV E L T R AV E L
island escape
C
M
Y
CM
MY
best preserved example of Sino-colonial buildings, recognised by the provincial authorities, who recently undertook to bury the unsightly wires that are a constant on most Thai streets. Other landmarks include the Old Phuket Post Office and now Philatelic Museum on Thalang Road – built in 1932, it is the only remaining original government building left on the island – the historic Thavorn Hotel, which houses a fine collection of antiques and old vintage photographs; and the Shrine of the Serene Light; best accessed via a small laneway off Phang Nga Road. It has undergone restoration so leave a donation toward these ongoing efforts at preservation then take the small passageway to the left of the temple. You’ll emerge into the back of Wilai’s Restaurant, which serves classic local dishes such as pa-nang moo, a mild coconut milk curry with pork, as well as one of the cheapest Western breakfasts in town. You may actually recognise some of the buildings from the silver screen: the Phuket Government Buildings substituted for the French Embassy of Cambodia in the film The Killing Fields, and the Luang Anuphart-PhuketKarn mansion was the Phnom Penh American Embassy in the same movie. The On On Hotel, meanwhile, featured in the opening scenes of Danny Boyle’s Thailand-set backpacker epic The Beach. Lest you think the town is nothing but a living museum, though, there are a number of bars, restaurants, shops and galleries where you can remind yourself you’re on 3 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
holiday. First off, pick up a unique handmade souvenir at Ban Boran Textiles or purchase a beautiful piece of design from the Underwood Art Factory Showroom. Then, sit down for a coffee at The Circle, enjoy dinner at the small yet globally famed Kai Jok See, check out the live music at Sanaeha, and then soak up the atmosphere with a glass of white wine at Dibuk Place. In sum, it may be old Junk, but Phuket has much more to offer visitors than just cheap thrills. There’s an amazing story to be told, as long as you’re willing to scratch the surface to find it.
EAT:
Kai Jok See Takua Pa Road, 076-217-903 Prego The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Siray Bay, 076-335-600; www.starwoodhotels.com The Circle 8 Rasada Road, 076-221-458 Wilai’s Restaurant Thalang Road, no tel.
DRINK:
Dibuk Place 42 Dibuk Road, 076-221-084 Sanaeha 83-85 Yaowarat Road, 076-218-514; www. sanaeha.com
bangkok101.com
CY
CMY
K
T R AV E L T R AV E L
over the border
KOLKATA
I
t’s hard to describe India to someone who hasn’t been. Even if you’ve spent years in Asia, the subcontinent is an entirely different world. Life in Kolkata has the appearance of semi-organised chaos, a constant maelstrom of people and traffic interspersed by remarkable moments of spirituality and solitude. It is apt, then, that our early-morning start (“before the monster wakes up!”) begins inside the serene courtyard of a Buddhist association, where we meet a group of Burmese tourists on pilgrimage. Having first enjoyed a quick shot of masala chai tea, which comes served in tiny, handmade pottery cups that are smashed after use to stop the sellers re-using them, we find ourselves as the main attraction. Outside, making our way through the narrow alleys and crossed crowded streets – watching out for careening buses, taxis, rickshaws and trams – the story of a city of immigrants emerges. On top of a mix of Bengalis, Tamils, Punjabis, Assamese and dozens of other Indian ethnicities, Kolkata was built and driven by a diverse influx of nationalities, such as the Armenians, Portuguese, Chinese and, of course, the British. It explains the proliferation of places of worship – on our short walk alone we pass a mosque, synagogue, Parsee and Jain temples, and Portuguese and Armenian churches. However, the largest monument in the city is not devoted to a religion, but rather to a single individual: the Empress of India. Determined to outdo the splendour of the Taj Mahal, 4 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
EAT
For Chinese, try neighbouring Tung Fong (25B Park Street, +91-33-2217- 4965), with its menu of localised items such as vegetable Manchurian. Meanwhile, KhanaSutra (Chrome, 226 A.J.C. Bose Road, + 91-33- 3096-3096; www.chromehotel.in) serves contemporary Indian cuisine, while La Terrasse (The Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Road, +91-332249-2323; www.oberoihotels.com) presents an array of international dishes.
SHOP
The SS Hogg or New Market (20 Lindsay Street)
located just a stone’s throw from Chowringhee offers everything from spices to handicrafts to fashion. the Victoria Memorial was constructed from 1906 to 1921 using ‘voluntary’ donations from mostly native subjects. If natural history is more your thing, then head over to the Indian Museum on Chowringhee. The ninth-oldest such institute in the world – it was established in 1814 – the large colonial building is in dire need of an overhaul but is still worth visiting for the Egyptian mummy, collection of dinosaur fossils and unsettling yet fascinating collection of skeletons from around the world. Our four days in Kolkata were a whirlwind – we see so much and yet so little. At times the city is so overwhelming we are thankful to have our hotel room to return to. bangkok101.com
Escape Everyday Life
Discover unspoilt nature, true hospitality and tropical island lifestyle
"AMAZING KOH KOOD" PACKAGE 3D2N stay including roundtrip ferry transfer from/to Trad and Koh Kood, 6 meals and one choice of activity. Rates start at; Duplex Bungalow 7,500 Baht/night Deluxe Ocean Facing Bungalow 9,000 Baht/night Deluxe Oceanfront Bungalow 10,500 Baht/night
Away Koh Kood 43/8 Moo 2, Baan Klong Chao, Koh Kood, Trat 23000 T +66 8 1835 4517, +66 8 7136 4036 I E book.akk@AwayResorts.com I
W AwayResorts.com
CHEN MAN THE MET BAR
A R T bangkok101.com
HIGH FASHION
With Chinese contemporary art firmly on the international radar so too is interest towards other Chinese cultural commodities including design and fashion. Capturing the stylistic pulse of Beijing’s newest trends is leading female photographer Chen Man, whose display of light-boxes and prints can be seen at The Met Bar (Metropolitan Bangkok, 27 South Sathorn Rd; 02-625-3399) Gracing the covers of the fashion industry’s top publications, Chen Man quirkily melds more traditional Chinese identifiers with colourful modern twists. It runs until May 31.
XXXXX 2013 | 43
A R T S & C U LT U R E
exhibitions
SPACE GRAVITY REBOUND
GALLERY VER [MAP 7/G6] 200/1 Ko Dang Rod Fai Kao, Jomphon Chatuchak | 02-898-6584 Wed-Thurs 1pm-6pm, Fri-Sun 2pm-9pm
Until May 10 Yet to be officially confirmed in the press, conceptual artist Arin Rungjang will be one of Thailand’s two representative artists for the Thai Pavilion at this summer’s Venice Biennale. No stranger to international art expositions, Arin often employs site-specific responses and interactions to physical spaces with subtle layering to memory and personal history. At Ver Arin uses cosmological governance to ponder individual existence.
RAJ LOESUANG AND THE BOY SOMBOON HORMTIENTHONG BANGKOK ART AND CULTURAL CENTRE 939 Rama 1 Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630 Tues-Sun 10am-9pm | bacc.or.th
[MAP 8/J13]
Until May 12 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC Fl.9) Raj Loesuang and The Boy Somboon Hormtienthong Having spent decades as an artist living in Germany, Somboon Hormtienthong adopted something of the reserved and introspective character typical to northern Europe. Yet in the expansive 400-plus works retrospective the artist reveals a rarely seen playfulness that opines comic book inspirations.
JOURNEY
DOB HUALAMPHONG GALLERY [MAP 8/F13] DOB Building 4F, 318 Rama 4 Rd, Bangrak | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.3am-5pm | www.dobthailand.com
Until May 12 The sights and experiences of travel have provided inspiration to many artists, including Anak Navaraj. Having learned his craft in the States, the young photographer captures moments, whether seemingly trivial or overtly dramatic, of human penetration within the broader landscape.
4 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
exhibitions
A R T S & C U LT U R E
A TALE OF TWO TRIBES THAVIBU GALLERY [MAP 5/E5] Silom Galleria, 308 919/1 Silom Rd 02-266-5454 | www.thavibu.com
Until May 25 This duo exhibition features paintings of two culturally distinct hill tribe groups within the region by Myanmar artist Zaw Win Pe and Vietnamese artist Nguyen Quang Huy. While each artist employs their own painterly aesthetic, they both deliver a similar romanticism in the their interpretations to the geography and human face of the Pa-O people of Myanmar’s Shan State and the Hmong folk of Lao Cai in Vietnam.
METAMORPHOSIS AND FLUX H PROJECT SPACE [MAP 5/F6] 201 Sathorn Soi 12 | 085-021-5508 Daily, except Tues, 10am-6pm | www.hgallerybkk.com
Until May 26 Better known for his print works, Bangkok-based British artist takes a turn at curating with this international group exhibition of artists’ books, film and works on paper. In the global digital domain, where inaccuracies in translation are common and can lead to greater misunderstanding between differing cultures and languages, these artists explore themes of interpretation and contextualisation.
TANATCHAI BANDASAK
338 OIDA GALLERY [MAP 8/M17] 4F 1028/5 Pongamorn Nuilding, Rama 4 Rd, Sathorn 090-198-8749 | Wed-Sun 1-5pm and by appointment
Until May 31 Recognised for his film, photography and video installations, Tanatchai Bandasak brings a highly personal interpretation to the incidental and transitory encounters that are a regular part of daily life. Orginally from Udon Thani and having graduated from the Ecole Nationale Suprieure D’ARTS in France, Tanatchai curious perspectives encourages us to discover new meanings within the familiar.
bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 4 5
A R T S & C U LT U R E
interview
Understanding
Montien By Max Crosbie-Jones
I
t’s a testimony to the importance of the late Montien Boonma that exhibitions of his work are still being put on thirteen years after his premature death from cancer. Now on at the Jim Thompson Art Centre, [Montien Boonma]: Unbuilt/Rare Works is a display, not of the meditative installation art for which he is known, but around 60 of the internationally renowned Thai artist’s sketches. We spoke to Gridthiya Gaweewong, artistic director of The Jim Thompson Art Center, and Gregory Galligan, director of the Thai Art Archives, to ask them how the show came about.
Many visitors to the show are likely to be newcomers to Boonma’s work. How would you explain his artistic approach, appeal and legacy? Galligan: I think Montien is one of the first Thai modernists to successfully combine in his work both his Thai cultural background and an international training and outlook. His use of natural materials, his reference of Buddhist principles, and his sense of endless invention, all applied towards conveying very humanitarian messages without lecturing to his audience – these are tremendously appealing and inspiring qualities. How does the show give us a deeper understanding of him and his work? Gaweewong: We would like to remind audiences that 4 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
Montien did not only focus on Buddhism; he actually started with social, political, and environmental concerns. He was also concerned with the unique nature of the sites where his projects were based. His thought processes conveyed through his sketches, notes, and what he was reading and inspired by was a big revelation for us. We hope that young people who didn’t have a chance to study with him directly, will gain something from this. Over 60 drawings and other ephemera are on show from the Boonma archives. How did you go about selecting them? Galligan: We were quite overwhelmed, at first, with the generosity of Montien’s son, Jumpong, who introduced us to things we had rarely, if ever seen before. Some bangkok101.com
interview
A R T S & C U LT U R E
“MONTIEN DID NOT ONLY FOCUS ON BUDDHISM; HE ACTUALLY STARTED WITH SOCIAL, POLITICAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS”
of the works have been seen in reproduction, and we wanted people to have an opportunity to see them in person; others have never before been exhibited. We were especially interested in sketches for unbuilt works, or unrealised aspects of works, that demonstrated his working processes. Was there a lot of interesting material that there just wasn’t space for? Galligan: We could not show all of it, of course, but I think we manage to bring together most of the more interesting things we’ve encountered. My hope is to one day exhibit more of the content of the sketchbooks; we get only a peek at them here! What would you say the show’s most important pieces are? Gaweewong: Hard to say… his series of sketches for unbuilt and unrealised works were the most fascinating to me; especially the Funeral March piece (2000), the last series that he couldn’t sketch by himself. He asked Kitti Maleephan, his assistant, to render it for him. The sketch is for a work that he wanted to show at the National Gallery here in Bangkok, in an attempt to communicate with his beloved wife, who passed away of breast cancer in 1994, only six years prior to his own death by cancer. It’s a very emotional and heartbreaking piece for me. Please tell us about Hans Ulrich Obsrist’s Unbuilt Roads project and how it ties into the show? Galligan: Back in 1997, Obrist and his colleague Guy Tortosa argued that artist’s unbuilt projects were important works of art in their own right, even just as conceptual studies. They invited scores of famous artists to submit plans, sketches, and so forth of unrealised work for a book – Thailand’s own Rirkrit Tiravanija is among them. We’ve linked Montien’s show to this project, as he was once invited to participate and couldn’t due to the advanced nature of his cancer in 2000. bangkok101.com
You state in the show that you are still researching Boonma’s sketches for unbuilt and unrealised projects. What do you plan to do with this research? Galligan: Well, much of what we’ve presented here is ripe for further investigation. This is a show full of questions – in Montien’s spirit, really, over providing answers – to all Montien’s mysteries. With further study, which we hope to carry out through the Thai Art Archives ongoing “Montien Boonma Project,” we hope to tease out new insights into what gave rise to some of the sketches that we’ve only begun to think about here. I’m especially keen to know more about the Buddhist temple project he wanted to do at Bangkok’s Wat Bowon Niwet. Can you tell us what you know about this. Galligan: At least three times late in life, Montien spoke about being fascinated by a portion of temple wall at Wat Bowonniwet, where the wall is perforated with window apertures cut at oblique angles. When you look at the apertures, you can’t see directly through them, as they are cut at a diagonal. Montien liked this concept of seeing obliquely, and he played with the idea of creating a wall through which you look through any get only glimpses of a dancing Hanuman – the ape-like character in the Ramakien that is related to the Lord of Wind – coming and going in the distance. It was Montien’s meditation on cosmic energy, vision, understanding, and self questioning. Is there a chance that any of his unrealised projects could, one day, be realised? Galligan: It’s hard to say; in some ways we struggled with the idea ourselves, as we first thought of trying to present something based on his sketches, but we opted not to do that. The plans and sketches seem to live on their own energies, without our trying to create works based on them. At the same time, who’s to say Montien would not have wanted something built for the public? It’s a decision that only his heirs can finally answer. M AY 2 0 1 3 | 4 7
A R T S & C U LT U R E
interview
Arun Rungjang, who will represent Thailand at this year’s Venice Biennale, is just one of many Thai arists who cite Boonma as an inspiration. Why do you think he is such a figurehead? Gaweewong: Arun and his contemporaries had a chance to study with Montien Boonma, when he freshly returned from Paris. To quote Furuichi Yasuko, Montien was ‘fresh and contemporary’ compared to his artist friends. Young artists found these approaches provided alternatives to tradition, and they gave young artists hope to develop their own work in more conceptual directions. Many artists of this generation did not follow the traditional track of joining the national art competitions, or corporate-sponsored competitions; they sought to work with alternative spaces and be more experimental. Montien was a real role model. There will be a public symposium (2-6pm) and reception (6:30-9:30pm) on May 9. [MONTIEN BOONMA]: UNBUILT/RARE WORKS
UNTIL JULY 31 JIM THOMPSON ART CENTRE
[MAP 4/A3]
6 Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd | 02-216-7368 9am-5pm daily | www.thejimthompsonartcenter.org 4 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
TA N ATC H A I
BANDASA K
Go, Said the Bird U n t i l 2 J u n e 2 013 7 June - 31 August 2013 : Thasnai Sethaseree
cheat notes
DISCOVER BANGKOK WITH KIDS
Jacqueline Grawburg | B690 Even the best made plans to explore the City of Angels can fall apart if the kids throw a tantrum. Jacqueline Grawburg, a mother of two and long-time resident, knows this better than most and has channelled her experiences into this easy-to-read practical guide detailing all the ‘must do’ museums, cultural sights and activities. Aside from being well-structured, the really nifty thing about it are the nuggets of parental information that accompany each description. Not only has she worked out the recommended age group for each place and how much time it’ll kill (the Bangkok Doll Museum 30-60 min, for example), she also answers other pressing parental questions such as “how difficult is it to get there?” and “is there food close by?” Of course, there’s still no guarantee the kids won’t throw a hissy fit but with this book to hand at least you’ll have a back-up plan.
SIAMESE MEMOIRS: THE LIFE AND TIMES OF PIMSAI SVASTI Ping Amranand | B550
More than three decades following his mother MR Pimsai Svasti’s tragic death, Ping Amranand has finally helped complete her unfinished autobiography. As the first female Thai Oxford graduate, as well as an ardent writer and avid gardener, Svasti paved the way for modern Thai women in many ways. With close ties to the King (she had royal lineage), her personal accounts vividly capture Buddhist philosophy, culture, and the Thai way of life during the mid 20th century. However, more than merely sharing her personal accounts, Svasti’s flashbacks to the past give us raw and insightful glimpses into the political and social events that changed Thailand as a nation. Reflecting the turbulent upheavals of the 20th century, her life stories take us through the landmark 1932 coup, which led to Siam becoming Thailand, the abdication of King Rama VI, World War II, and ultimately, her own tragic murder.
A R T S & C U LT U R E
BANGKOK BABYLON Jerry Hopkins | B550
The man who inspired Apocalype Now’s Colonial Kurtz. An Air America pilot turned go-go bar owner. The original Thai travel writer. Each of the 25 expatriates profiled in this book by Jerry Hopkins – author of definitive Jim Morrison biography No One Here Gets Out Alive – has a different story. And yet the narrative arc is all too familiar: spirited foreigner, disillusioned with life in the west, finds fulfillment in Babylonian Bangkok. Not one woman is profiled – a disappointment, but no surprise considering Hopkins knows many of his subjects from the bar scene. Still, it is an often laugh-out-loud record of some of Bangkok’s most talented and roguish farang, as well as a testament to the possibilities for reinvention this compliant city affords. If you’re considering moving here, read it, if only to learn how high – and low – the bar has been set.
DORM (Dek Hor) Songyos Sukmakanan | B290 | 2006 It’s the Siamese Sixth Sense. The much-anticipated sophomore effort from one of the directors of puppy-love popular Fan Chan, Dorm gives growing up a ghostly spin. Initially furious at his family for packing him off to boarding school, Ton forgets his rage when he has to contend with a pack of bullies and – something more sinister. Directors build an admirably thick, slow-paced sense of dread and lensing makes use of both hypersaturation and sepia tones to good dramatic effect. For all the chills, Dorm performs a delicate exploration of family relationships and of budding friendships between children. bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 5 1
THE XXX ARTISTIC XXX XXX MONK photography by xxx words by xxx
A
serendipitous encounter led to Kathmandu Photo Gallery’s latest show. “I was at Bangkok’s Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives, searching for photographic work by Rabin Bunnag, one of Thailand’s old photography masters of the 1950s,” says its owner, Manit Sriwanichpoom, referring to one of the capital’s main centres for Buddhist meditation and studies. “There by chance I encountered a set of three thick books entitled Dharma Text Next to Image,” he continues, ”and found in them lots of double-exposure photographs. I was wondering who the photographer behind them was and the archive’s staff told me it’s Buddhadasa himself.” Buddhadasa Bhiku (1906-1993) is one of the most famously enlightened monks in the annals of Thai history and was well-known for his efforts to get people to realise the essence of Buddhism, and not cling to the egoism of ‘I’ and ‘mine’. But few know about his experiments with photography dating back to 1972. “It was a big surprise,” Sriwanichpoom says, “to discover that one of our most revered monks was creating what, in an art context, you might call conceptual art, and long before Thailand had adopted this term from the west.” Sriwanichpoom believes the self-portraits were Buddhadasa’s clever way of fighting against the public’s craze for holy pictures of himself. “He was already very open to the dharma arts, from painting and sculpture to poetry,” he says, “and as he knew that he couldn’t fight the demands, he used the opportunity to impart dharma teachings with his self-portraits.” Alongside each of the 423 pictures, which were shot in the bucolic gardens of Surathani Province’s Suan Mokh Monastery, is a dharma poem that he’d written especially. Imparting wisdom and life lessons, many of these still have a transformative power among Buddhist worshippers today. His photographic trickery, meanwhile, can be appreciated by anyone. Sriwanichpoom admits that whittling down the series to the 30 photographs that appear in the show was difficult and entailed being ruthless. “I decided to base my decision on aesthetics rather than poetic content, to show his visual literacy and ability to create dharma riddles using the double or even triple exposure technique,” he says. “There is also a set of prints that were damaged by humidity at his temple. Instead of throwing it out, Buddhadasa appreciated their beauty and subtle meanings. Some of these made it in, too.”
XXX XXX XXX To Die, Die Correctly
You don’t know how to die so you suffer fear of death. Superstition and stupidity cloud your sight. It’s natural you must die; die serenely. Die a human--die rightly: die happy.
It becomes then a smile upon Death. It’s amusing: not pathetic; so your aim is to die right and well, male and female, die a death that is deathless, of far meaning. Non-attachment dharma guides your deeds. No material things form your ego. Clarity saves from groveling in torment; may photography we all die correctly asby such. xxx
words by xxx
Arranged with the kind co-operation of the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (Facebook: suanmokkhbangkok), “Buddhadasa Bhiku” is the sixth edition in Kathmandu Photo Gallery’s ‘Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers’ series, in which works neglected by Thai photographic history are uncovered and introduced to new audiences. Showing at Kathmandu Photo Gallery until June 30 87 Pan road (near Indian Temple), off Silom road 02-234-6700; 11am-7pm (closed Mondays) www.kathmandu-bkk.com
XXX XXX XXX photography by xxx words by xxx
FOOD & DRI N K
DIM SUM AT IMPERIAL CHINA (P61) 5 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
AROY ONE MORE ROUND
One of Bangkok’s newer restaurants to make a real splash is Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49; 02-261-0515), set up in a reclaimed warehouse in central Bangkok, offering a menu with various cuts of meats and combinations of fresh wholesome produce to create a diverse symphony of flavours. It’s not just about the food, though. Indeed, Smith is in the middle of its ‘Second Wind’, an offer of two drinks for the price of one from 9pm11pm, Sunday through Thursday. They’ve got the full list of classic cocktails as well as a handful of intriguing signatures. So swing by one night to wet your whistle.
FIVE-STAR GUY
Chef Sylvain Sendar is one of the rising stars in the French restaurant scene – he owns Itinéraires in Paris, which was recently awarded a Michelin star. And he’s in Bangkok this month, cooking up a lavish six-course meal at Vie Hotel on May 30. It’s B7000 but a look at the menu suggests you’ll be sitting down for a memorable meal, including Arctic king crab and avocado in vegetable ravioli, John Dory with fresh langoustine in green mango tartare and lobster and citrus confit with yellow wine sauce. Perfect for any special occasion coming up.
ALL ABOARD
Thonglor nightlife baron Ash Sutton has made a name for himself with concept venues such as Iron Fairies and Five – he’s now joined forces with Bed Supperclub founder Sanya Souvanna Phouma to open Maggie Choo’s (Underground @ Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd; 02-635-6055). It’s a Thai-Chinese restaurant serving street food staples and nibbles, connected to a once-derelict 19th-century East India Company depot converted into a lounge and club, featuring live jazz and dance music. Entry is free but it’s closed on Mondays.
bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 59
FOOD & DRI N KS
meal deals
Until June 20
SEAFOOD BUFFET AT CAFÉ DE NIMES GRAND SUKHUMVIT HOTEL BANGKOK [MAP 3/F10]
99 Sukumvit Soi 6 | 02-207-9999 | www.grandsukhumvithotel.com
Have a mouthwatering seafood buffet feast fest at Café de Nimes, where a happy day is guaranteed for you and your loved one. Besides the highlighted seafood, the restaurant is offering a variety of European, Chinese, Japanese and authentic Thai cuisine to delight food lovers from all nationalities. Come with 4-10 people and get 50 percent discount on lunch, dinner and Sunday brunches. Contact Café de Nimes for prices and reservations.
Until May 31
SEAFOOD PROMOTION AT PARK SOCIETY SOFITEL SO BANGKOK [MAP 5/M7]
2 North Sathorn Rd, Bangrak | 02-624-0000 | www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com
Prepared by award-winning chef Paul Smart, the Park Society restaurant and café is offering an exquisite gastronomic experience at the talk of the town rooftop restaurant where the finest dishes meet spectacular views. Seafood lovers can’t miss out on this month’s promotion, consisting of a five-course set menu prepared with the finest and freshest marine creatures. The Seafood Promotion starts at only B3599 per person so reservation in advance is highly recommended.
Until May 31
SAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM DELIGHTS AT KISARA CONRAD BANGKOK [MAP 4/L7]
87 Wireless Rd., Pathumwan | 02-690-9233 | www.conradhotels3hilton.com
KiSara, one of the finest Japanese restaurants to experience the spirit and culture of Japan, is offering a special cherry blossom-inspired dishes, or the Chef’s dinner set menu that starts at B1800 per person. The delightful menu includes the Foie Gras Mousse Sakura no Kaori – cherry blossoms-infused foie gras mousse, Sakura Barachirasi Sushi – cubed sashimi and cherry blossom-topped sushi rice and much more.
Ongoing
AUTHENTIC ITALIAN AT FLAVA DREAM HOTEL BANGKOK [MAP 3/G8]
10 Sukhumvit Soi 15, Wattana | 02-254-8500 | www.dreambkk.com Dicover the unique flavor of the Italian Cusine prepared with best of the best ingredients carefully selected for each delectable Italian dishes. Experience this burst of culinary creativity by the executive chef Sarawuth, think about Italian dishes such as lasagne alla Bolognese, homemade tortellini alfredo stuffed with chicken and spinach, saltimbocca risotto alla Milanese and many more of the classical dishes the Italian kitchen is well know for.
Ongoing
SUPER SUNDAY ON RIVER OF KINGS ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON [MAP 5/C2]
2 Charoen Krung, Soi 30 Siphyya | 02-266-9214 | www.sheraton.com/bangkok Can’t decide between Chinese, Japanese, Italian, German, Indian or Thai food? Don’t worry – you can have them all on your table at the chic buffet restaurant. This month’s ongoing promotion is offering what seems to be an endless variety of luscious food dishes, starting at B1780 net per person. The sensational view on the river of kings will provide extra stimuli for your pleasurable eating experience at Bangkok’s most romantic dinner venue.
Ongoing
SUNDAY SEAFOOD BRUNCH CROWNE PLAZA BANGKOK LUMPINI PARK [MAP 4/K4]
952 Rama IV Road, Bangkok | 02-629-6900 | www.crowneplaza.com Enjoy Sunday brunch on chilling Sundays with grilled seafood and seafood on ice. Highlights include live cooking stations, Canadian lobster, meats carved tableside, dim sum, and foie gras. An amazing selection of culinary creations with Latin highlights all for B1800 on Sundays from 12pm to 3pm. And end the brunch with Movenpick ice cream.
6 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
reviews
FOO D & D RI N KS
IMPERIAL CHINA
- A delicious anniversary You might think you have a pretty firm idea about Chinese food – after all, it’s one of the most widely available cuisines all around the world, and is everywhere in Bangkok. Still, if this city has one constant – apart from the traffic – it is surely it’s ability to surprise and the expertly prepared offerings at Imperial China might force you to rethink what you think you know about Chinese food. That is due in large part to Chef Chu, who has been running the kitchen at Imperial China for 10 years – indeed, the restaurant is celebrating his anniversary with a range of special dishes. If you’re after a Cantonese feast, there’s plenty on offer – we’ll get to that – but if you fancy the lighter fare, then the dim sum is sensational; the light, bite-sized portions or ornate seafood and pork will have you and your friends fighting each other for control of the Lazy Susan. As delicious as the dim sum is, it’s the main courses where Chef Chu really fires – everyone is familiar with spring rolls, but the ones at Imperial China, made with snowfish and avocado, (B750) are unlike any you’ve had previously, the ingredients off-setting each other perfectly and the texture of the pastry excquisite. The seafood extravaganza continues with baked tiger prawn with salt egg (B950) and stir-fried Hong Kong scallops bangkok101.com
with macadamia (B850). The scallops, in particular, hit exactly the right note and will remind seafood lovers precisely why they love their food fresh from the sea. One of the more unusual dishes is braised bamboo pith with enoki mushroom and abalone (B450) – the flavour is not quite as full as in the other dishes but they’re definitely moreish and reward trying something new. However, the centrepiece of the whole meal – one of the chef’s signature dishes – is the spectacular garoupa (B100 per gram), which comes in pairs. One of them is stir-fried and served with celery and garlic, while the other is deep-fried and served with sweet and sour sauce. Definitely a winner.
รร.อิมพีเรียล ควีนส์ปาร์ค สุขุมวิท 22 IMPERIAL CHINA
[MAP 3/M11]
Imperial Queens Park Hotel, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 imperialhotels.com/imperialqueenspark | Daily 7am-10pm M AY 2 0 1 3 | 6 1
FOOD & DRI N KS
reviews
EL DIABLO’S - Margaritas and magical tacos The bottom end of soi 22 – the funny little dog-leg where it kinks back toward soi 24 – is not an obvious place for a Mexican cantina. The bold, brightly coloured facade of El Diablo’s is flanked by Thai thrift shops and mini-marts. Restaurateurs here cannot rely on foot traffic, on customers happening past and popping in. That’s why El Diablo’s has gone out of their way to make sure they have the kind of food that persuades people to make the trip. Early on a Sunday afternoon, regulars begin to filter in, greeted by Seamus, El Diablo’s personable young owner, who has set up his own operation in Bangkok, a shoot-off from his dad’s place up in Chiang Mai. The customers inquire about changes to the menu, talking about what they enjoyed last time. It’s a sure sign of a well-run place. Here, at El Diablo’s, the burritos are the stars of the show – quite simply, they’re enormous, ranging from B120 for the basic combination to B225 for the snazzier carne asada – or grilled beef. They make their own tortillas on the premises and while they are delightfully fresh, it’s the liberal servings of roasted salsa and pico de gallo that really deliver. If the burritos are too much for you to tackle, there’s plenty of smaller fare worth sampling. The tacos (B70-90) are particularly impressive. Again, the salsa and the toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice to blow out the cobwebs, while the varieties – chicken, pork, beef and chorizo – all retain enough of their distinct tastes that the different 6 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
tacos never blur into a hotpotch of cheese and guacamole – although the guacamole here is also top-notch. It’s a winning combination – if you’ve struggled to find fresh, flavoursome Mexican food, these tacos are the way forward. That’s not to undersell the quesadillas, of course (B150245), but it’s probably the tacos and the burritos which are the staples that keep those with cravings for Mexican food filtering back to El Diablo’s. Of course, no Mexican feast would be complete without several margaritas (B150) to wash it all down and El Diablo’s again hits the mark when it comes to the mixed drinks. It’s a perfect spot for a night with a big group of friends – dive in with a pitcher of the margaritas (B1200) and go to town on this immensely satisfying food.
เดียโบล ร้านอาหารแม็กซิกัน สุขุมวิท 22
EL DIABLO’S [MAP 8/P17] 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-8646 Tues-Sun 11.30am-11pm bangkok101.com
reviews
FO F OOODD & & D DR RI NI NKKS
SHINTORI - Doing sashimi in style Banish thoughts of your usual Japanese restaurant in a mall. A new import from Shanghai, Shintori is of a different class – and price range – entirely. Staff in stylish black uniforms usher you past a monumental sliding wooden door and into the huge, open-plan dining hall by Duangrit Bunnag, one of the country’s foremost architects and a master of minimalism. It’s a fresh, high-ceilinged space where polished concrete is offset by simple black furniture, overhead spotlights contrast with shadow, and the sushi bar, kitchen and cocktail bar get a wall each. But it is to the fourth wall, with its floor-to-ceiling window stretching its entire length, that your eye is drawn. The view – of the lawns of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club framed by a skyscraper-filled skyline – is epic. If Shintori is starting to sound like a pricey spot, here’s the bad news: it is. However, if you’re looking for a dinner that impresses on all fronts it could be worth forking out for, as the combination of a thrilling setting and exciting food is still hard to find in this town. Like the décor, most of the food here is a far cry from what you find in the usual mall joints, with a strong lean towards yōshoku, or western-style Japanese cooking. Starters that prove the point include the avocado tuna paste cocktail, with hints of wasabi and Japanese spirit shochu (B320), and the dainty Peking duck crispy spring rolls served with tender beef cubes and Pollock-like drizzles of eel sauce (B450). bangkok101.com
Both the above are tasty, but neither is a patch on the codfish monomiso (B650), a Shintori signature. Marinated for five days, it’s flaky, soft and packed full of miso flavour – a joy. For those who like their Japanese food more mainstream, there are sashimi platters, the biggest one just about justifying its price tag with its fresh, fat-sliced otoro tuna, yellow tail, red snapper and flounder (B1590). As good as the food is, Shintori could, if word gets out, work just as well as an uber-stylish cocktail bar. Given the size of the bar stretching along the back wall, it’s clear that the tipples (B350) are meant to be another highlight. On our visit, fruity Japanese-inflected concoctions such as the Mr Miyagi (shochu, honey, watermelon) and Sakura Season Change (sake, umeshu, lemon juice, cherry blossom syrup, sparkling wine) confirmed it.
เซนทรัลเวิลร์ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ หS HINTORI
[MAP 4/G4]
Level 18, Zen World, Zen Department Stores | 02-100-9000 shintoribangkok.com | 5.30pm-late M AY 2 0 1 3 | 6 3
FOOD & DRI N K
reviews
BOURBON STREET
- Big Easy, big taste New Orleans, the Big Easy, is famed for many things – its music, its nightlife and, of course, its distinctive Cajun food. There are bits and pieces borrowed from western Europe, particularly France and Spain, mixed up in a giant gumbo pot with Creole – itself a mixture of European and African-American influences - and infused with the brassy flavours of the American south. For the uninitiated, it’s a baffling cuisine, partly because it hasn’t been exported wholesale from Louisiana to the rest of the world. That said, washed down with a couple of particularly zingy margaritas at Bourbon Street in Ekkamai, it starts to make a whole lot of sense. The menu is vast, so fortunately the proprietor, Doug, who has been preaching the Cajun gospel in Bangkok for 30-odd years, is on-hand to offer his recommendations. No Cajun banquet is complete without a gumbo, which, on first appearance, looks like a simple working man’s stew - in Cajun cuisine, gumbo is a versatile dish that can contain more or less whatever the chef fancies. Here, it’s chicken and sausage (B140) in a rich broth – whatever spices or thickeners are being expertly employed at Bourbon Street, the flavour jumps off the spoon. An early highlight, undoubtedly. 6 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
But they come thick and fast thereafter. The buffalo wings (B160) and the barbecue ribs (B370) are perfect for those with big appetites who aren’t afraid to get stuck in. The spinach and artichoke dip (B225) – again, it sounds simple – is one of the most addictive sides you’ll find in Bangkok. Likewise, the Italian cheese sausage (B310) is a serious portion but the quality of the sausage, mixed with the cheesy goodness buried within, means you’ll be fighting over the final mouthfuls. There’s no shortage of other Cajun staples on offer, like popcorn shrimp (B180), red beans, rice and andouille sausage (B210) or jambalaya with blackened fish and shrimp (B255). It’s a heady mix but make sure you leave room for dessert, as the bread pudding with whiskey sauce (B120) is spectacular, particularly when followed by one of Bourbon Street’s trademark Hurricane cocktails to send you out into the night with a zydeco shimmy in your heart and the taste of New Orleans on your tongue. บอบอน ถนน เอกมัย
BOURBON STREET
[MAP 8/S16]
9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 02 381 6801 bourbonstbkk.com | Daily 7am-1am bangkok101.com
Chef Chu Hoi Hong, hailing from Hong Kong, will be celebrating his 10th anniversary of
service as the Executive Chef of Imperial China Restaurant through the presentation of 10 exciting signature dishes as well as a mouth-watering 10 course Cantonese set-menu for both lunch and dinner!
From May 9 - June 9, 2013 Lunch : 11:30-14:00 hrs . Dinner : 18:00-22:00 hrs.
For more information and reservations, please call 02 261 9000 ext. 5058, 5059 email at : dining@imperialhotels.com, Website : www.imperialhotels.com Address : 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
สำรองโต๊ะที่โทร. 02-261-9300 ต่อ 5058, 5059 อีเมล์ dining@imperialhotels.com เวปไซต์ www.imperialhotels.com
T R AV E L
SUBSCRIBE
now for ju s t B 1,000 pe r ye ar
GET IT EVERY MONTH! www.bangkok101.com
PAYMENT METHOD OF PAYMENT Cheque (made payble to Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd.) Bank Transfer to: Account name: Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. Account no.: 049-425319-2 Bank name: Siam Commercial Bank Swift code: SICOTHBK PLEASE SEND SUBSCRIPTION FORM & PAYMENT SLIP:
Via mail: Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. Tel: 02-252-3900 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand Via fax: +66(0)2-650-4557 Via E-mail: distribution@talisman-media.com
PRICE
B1,000 for 12 months (a saving of B200 per year)
DETAILS Name
Subscriber discount (incl. postage):
Thailand B1,000 / US $33 Asia US $83 Europe / Australasia US $97 Americas / Rest of World US $110 3 0 | S E P T E M B E R 2 012
Tel. E-mail Address
I would like to subscribe for starting from
year(s) issue. bangkok101.com
street eats
FO F OOODD & & D DR RI NI NKKS
CHINESE WANTON
- A little bundle of flavour You’ll never know what’s inside a wonton until you taste one. It’s simply made, a sheet of flour wrapping around assorted excitement. But, at Kiew Jeen, which means ‘Chinese wonton’, there are plenty of variations. The restaurant is within five minutes’ walk from MRT Lumpini station, situated on a block of townhouses with two-storey seating. It’s not the prettiest restauarant in the area and the smells from the kitchen are potent, but the whole experience is elevated by the food and its taste. Although it’s called Chinese Wonton, the food is more Liaoning cuisine, a sub-Chinese cuisine in the Northeast of China, which has its own distinctive flavour, although there’s plenty on the menu that resembles Thai or other commonly found Chinese dishes. The crispy eggplant french fries (B110) sound weird but after they’re cooked, they are lightly coated with sweet black sauce, giving off sweetness and a little salty taste. Another vegie dish, the fried beans (B110), has a strong taste – the bean itself is sweet but it comes mixed with a salty seasoning. and a hint of garlic. If those dishes aren’t strong enough, try the spicy bean curd (B110). It’s a tofu with minced pork stir-fried. This dish bangkok101.com
comes out hot and is a favourite for diners who can’t get enough spice in their lives. Save the best for the last, though – the wonton menu is what keeps the customers coming back. and is something that shouldn’t be missed. The xiao long bao (B100) is a steamed stuffed bun, served hot. Each one of these is juicy, with the soup inside released with each bite. There are different ways to cook a wonton, whether steamed, fried, or baked, and the taste of the wonton varies accordingly depending on the method. If you find the food too greasy or cheesy, have them with Chinese tea or chrysanthemum tea. Overall, it’s a dining experience not found many places in Bangkok and Kiew Jeen is a very small restaurant, so call for a reservation if you don’t want to be left waiting. Don’t expect much from the service and don’t order takeaway unless you’re happy to eat it cold.
เกี๊ยวจีน ซอยงานดูพลี สาทรซอย 1 KIEW JEEN
[MAP 8/M17]
Sathorn Soi 1 (Soi Ngam Doo Plee) | 02-679-7019 Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm M AY 2 0 1 3 | 6 7
ealtike
Nym
B
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
TALAD DONWAI
angkok is heaven for street food but there are still times when I take a short journey out of the city to try street food in the surrounding areas. One place I love to travel to for brunch is Talad Donwai – it’s on the way to Nakhorn Pathom and it takes less than one hour to get there. It’s one of my favourite landscapes – I should say waterscape because it is situated along Maenam Thacheen, where life is dictated by the ebbs and flows of the river. Unfortunately, it’s not accessible by boat from Bangkok but, once there, it’s easy to explore the river without getting stuck on a group tour. Talas Donwai is famous among Thais for locally made food, both savoury and sweet. It’s easy to become overwhelmed by the amount of food and the energy of the vendors at the busy market. They will hand you anything they have on display to taste – some can speak English but it doesn’t matter if they don’t, as the delicious food speaks for itself.
6 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
The highlight, though, is the Chinese stew with duck and noodle soup. Plenty of stalls insist their dishes are the true originals, which can be confusing. In reality, most of the variations are fairly similar in taste. If you have a weakness for dessert, then you’re in luck. My favourite is one shop where the lady in charge makes everything herself – it’s called Wongchan – and has been in the family for three generations. Most Thai desserts – or Khanom Thai – are a combination of sugar, flours, rice, coconut milk and a lot of carbohydrates. I love khao niew kaew, sticky rice mixed with sugar and juice of padana leaves. Try khanom chan, a colourful Thai layer cake, or khanom peuk koun, which is taro slow-cooked with sugar. Sometimes, it depends on which ingredients are available. Talad Donwai offers a vast selection of Thai food and is a great place for an authentic experience that will help you understand Thai cuisine. It’s best not to go on the weekend or over the holidays, though. bangkok101.com
COOKING WITH POO Stop sniggering at the back! Poo is actually the nickname of one of the citys most in-demand cooks, Saiyuud ‘Chom-Poo’ Diwong. A long-time resident of Bangkok’s Klong Toey slum, Poo runs her own cooking school as part of the Helping Hands initiative, a community self-help program she started with other residents. The profits help street businesses get on their feet. Each month we bring you a recipe from her cooking book, copies of which are available via her website www.cookingwithpoo.com.
Green Curry (Gaeng Khiaw Waan)
แกงเข ยี วหวาน
COOKING WITH POOSaiyuud Diwong | UNOH Publications | 112pp | www.cookingwithpoo. com | Aus $20
PREPARATION • Use mortar and pestle to crush the lime rind and galangal • Then add the chilli, lemongrass, garlic and onion and grind until it’s a paste. • Add 250ml coconut milk to saucepan and bring to the boil • Add curry paste and stir for two minutes
• Add torn kaffir lime leaves • Add fish sauce, sugar and meat and simmer until meat is cooked. • Add eggplant, 250ml coconut milk and water until eggplant is soft. • Add Thai basil, mix for one minute • Serve with rice or fresh vermicelli noodles
INGREDIENTS Some people like to add more vegetables to this dish, such as carrot, baby corn and bamboo shoots, though in our community, green curry is served with chicken blood, bones and feet. In restaurants, this dish is more conventional, and Poo has adapted her recipe for foreigners. The sweet basil combined with hot chilli makes a delicious meal for any occasion, but especially a warm winter’s night.
bangkok101.com
500ml coconut milk 4 kaffir lime leaves, torn, not sliced 6 tbs fish sauce /1 tbs of Salt 1 tsp sugar 300g chicken/pork/beef 200g eggplant (any size) 250ml water
20 Thai basil leaves CURRY PASTE
1 tbs kaffir lime rind 1 tbs galangal diced 10 green chillies 1 tbs lemon grass 3 garlic cloves diced 1 red onion diced
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 6 9
FOOD & DRI N K
sweet treats
Crepes and Co
T
he humble crepe is staple of French cuisine – you’ve probably encountered it at various stalls around Bangkok. You could be forgiven for thinking there’s only so many things you can do with some thin pastry and a variety of fillings. At Crepes and Co, though, it’s fair to say they’re determined to wring as many combinations out of this basic formula as possible, with some indulgent, delicious results. The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 hyears ago in a ramshackle warehouse at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 12, a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Jospehine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. 7 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh mango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sauteed apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire. Now extra-crispy, warmed up and caramelised, the crepe holds its shape despite being packed full of goodies. The rum-flavoured ice cream and the apples inside work off each other – there’s the richness of the rum and the tang at the end with the apple and the liqueur lingering on the tongue all the way through. Whether you come in at brunch – served all day, because there’s no good reason why you shouldn’t be able to eat brunch at 2pm on a Tuesday – or late at night, there’s enough variety to guarantee you’ll find something to your tastes. Whether you want something simple or more extravagant, the crepes are made with great care and attention to detail. And make sure you wash it down with a glass of boutique apple cider (B140).
CREPES AND CO
[MAP 8/L14]
59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Road, Chidlom (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 | 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
GOLD: Suppleness, Strength and Status Ruen Urai’s second Thai gourmet journey explores the natural elements that represent significant meanings in Thai food and customs. Similar to many cultures, Thais value gold (“Tong”) as status symbol. Soft and supple gold leaves are used for gilding iconic images and objects while the metal itself is strong enough to be cast, bent and melded into pieces of precious jewellery or large Buddha images. Thai culinary art’s “Midas touch” comes in various forms of egg-based desserts, originated in Portugal and adapted by the King Narai’s Court in Ayutthaya Period. These sweets with myriad of gold-connoted names, the luscious “Tong Yib,” “Tong Yord,” and “Foy Tong,” are auspiciously catered in ceremonies because they are believed to bring good luck, love and prosperity. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Plus happy hours from 3 to 6 p.m. daily. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road, Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096
Thai Gourmet Journey Ad Series No. 10
FOOD & DRI N K
neighbourhood nosh
SUKHUMVIT SOI 31 Venture off the well-worn Sukhumvit path down one of Bangkok’s most diverse stretches for lovers or food and drink HIMALI CHA CHA AND SON
E
ntering from Sukhumvit, you will come upon Himali Cha-Cha and Son about 50m in the soi on your right-hand side. The flagship store of this restaurant that boasts three branches around town, Himali Cha Cha and Son has been dishing out delicious Indian fare in Bangkok for over 30 years. A little further down on the left is Bella Napoli, serving wood-fired thin crust pizzas always ranked near the top of the capital’s selection. You can’t go too far in downtown Bangkok without running into a Japanese restaurant and soi 31 is no different, boasting one of the hottest sushi bars in town, Isao. This modern joint rolls up some of the most creative maki sushi in Bangkok. Head next door to Cherubin for a sinfully sweet hit of chocolate at this Teddy Bear-filled cafe. Their addictive French chocolate cake is utterly irresistible. Cross the street to Cassia Cafe if you’re around before dinner time for some afternoon tea. They serve up some delicious scones as well as a rotating menu of desserts to go with some heavier European fare. For something completely different, swing into Hard Times. This curiously named bar, which bares every resemblance to an Irish boozer, is in fact a Japanese spin on the traditional European pub, that instead sports a menu full of classic Izakaya fare. There’s no need to be alarmed by the barricades and men on duty once you hit the mid-soi intersection, because you might risk missing out on Brown Eyes on the northwest corner of the junction. This Japanese eatery features healthy gluten free cooking and baked goods, along with interesting creations like pizzas using buckwheat soba dough. If you’re looking for something a little extra special, turn left at the junction and continue down towards Le Vendome, one of the finest French restaurants. But if you’re looking to unwind, Suea Non Kin, at the very end of this soi is the perfect place for some drinks, and perhaps some spicy Thai food, while listening to some classic Thai tunes in its retro setting. 7 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
ISAO
LA VENDOME
SUEA NON KIN bangkok101.com
taking sunday plate by plate With Mandopop’s brand new Sunday lunch, wrapping up the weekend doesn’t have to mean doom and gloom. For a fixed price, savour plate by plate, limitless selections from our extensive a la carte menu and its contemporary interpretation of traditional Chinese cuisine, all in a dramatic setting with a dash of Chinoiserie style. SUNDAY LUNCH B1,188++ B688++ For free flow wine, beer & cocktails
RESERVATIONS: 02 125 9000 Ground Floor Oriental Residence 110 Wireless Road Bangkok Open for Sunday Lunch: 11.30hrs - 14.30hrs Open for Dinner Daily: 17.00hrs - 24.00hrs mandopop-bangkok.com bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 73
FOOD & DRI N K
listings
AN AN LAO
THAI AN AN LAO [MAP 3/P13] 122 Soi Sukhumvit 26 Klongtan 02-261-8188 | www.ananlao.com This trusty old kitchen recently relocated from Thonglor to a gleaming new location on Sukhumvit Soi 26, just across from K Village. Gone is the intimacy of the old branch, but to make up for it there’s a lot more space, plus plenty of parking (a real problem at the original), a bigger kitchen and disabled wheelchair access. With its overhead strip lighting, you’d struggle to call the canteen-like setting pretty, but no one cares, a tribute to the quality of the food. An An Lao’s is a descendant of the food resulting from immigration in Thailand’s Deep South. Khun Roongnanpa and her Thai-Chinese family hail from Betong, a mountainous district in Yala province; and it is the not-too-puritanical style of homestyle Chinese cooking that they grew up with down there that has made An An Lao such a fixture among families, businessmen, expats, even celebrity masterchef McDang. The steamed betong chicken is the one that no table spread should be without (and the reason why a backlit chicken logo looms large over the entrance). Coming in a close
74 | M AY 2 0 1 3
CURRIES AND MORE
second is the peking duck, which is An An Lao’s best seller (and loss-leader) due to its pricetag: B350 for the whole bird. Fowl isn’t the only thing that’s full-on delicious here. There are other, less lauded signatures such as the lightly wok fried, satisfyingly crunchy watercress in oyster sauce. There is also kao yok, thick slices of steamed pork belly interspersed with slices of just as thick taro. Doused in a sweet brown gravy thick with black bean pickles and Chinese spices, it’s a delicious, gratifying dish that we mopped up with hot, pillowsoft slices of mun thow (steamed Chinese bun).
อัน อัน เหลา สุขุมวิท ซ.26 CURRIES & MORE BY BAAN KHANITHA [MAP 3/R10] 31 Sukhumvit 53 | 02-259-8530 | curriesandmore.com | 11am-11pm Curries & More is a contemporary update of traditional favourite Baan Khanitha, which has branches on Sathorn and Sukhumvit 23. Befitting its location off Thong Lor (it’s only a few minutes walk north of the BTS station), Curries & More is split into three distinct venues: restaurant, wine bar and lounge, and dessert café. These are spread across two buildings,
which occupy the large site of a former garden residence. The restaurant décor is simple yet classic, with parquet floors and a warm colour palette accentuated by black and white French photography and delicate Thai art. The menu, meanwhile, contains a host of local and Western favourites with an occasional touch of fusion, such as the unusual but pleasing the tom yum-flavoured Caesar salad (B230). We also enjoyed an excellent northernstyle gaeng hang lay (pork curry, B240++) served with roti. For dessert, exhibitionists should go with the mango flambé crepe served with vanilla cognac ice cream (B190), though we wouldn’t have changed our order of perfectly made strawberry-drizzled panna cotta (B160++). Afterwards, head over to the wine bar for a glass or two (house wines B250 by the glass and B500 by the carafe), or the signature red and white sangrias (B790 per carafe, enough for four people), which you can enjoy on the quiet terrace, sat underneath lantern-lit trees.
เคอรีส์ แอนด์ มอร์ บาย บ้านขนิษฐา สุขุมวิท ซ.53 SAFFRON [MAP 5/K8] Banyan Tree Bangkok, FL 51-52, 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 02-679-1200 www.banyantree.com The Banyan Tree Bangkok’s Saffron is slightly overshadowed by the competition. Not only does this upscale Thai restaurant sit only a few floors down from the hotel’s stunning rooftop al fresco venue Vertigo, it’s also located in a part of town blessed with some of the city’s most acclaimed Thai restaurants. Maybe it’s just the luck of
bangkok101.com
listings
SAFFRON
the draw, or maybe Saffron needs to shout about its own talents a little louder. Unexpectedly, the dishes often surprise. Take the khong wang ruam (B770): this tray of appetizers is about as thrilling an opener as a Thai food fanatic could hope for – a real table-pleaser. Think sticks of pillow-soft chicken satay; a banana leaf salad studded with fat, juicy prawns; crunchy-soft spring rolls; some deep-fried bitter leaf; as well as a selection of tangy, spicy or sweet dips. If you can find space for another salad, the yum pla salmon is even more of a treat: huge hunks of seared Tasmanian salmon dressed up coriander and mint, crisp pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing. Mains are also a testament to Saffron’s high quality control, with dishes we tried and can recommend including the moo ob narm phueng (B470), which are roasted, peppered pork spare ribs glazed in a black pepper and honeycomb sauce; and the pla krapong, fried sea bass with salted egg.
รร. บันยันทรี ถ.สาทรใต้
NORTHERN THAI GEDHAWA [MAP 3/N8] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 35 | 02-662-0501
bangkok101.com
GEDHAWA
FOOD & DRI N K
MALLIKA
SOUTHERN THAI
Mon-Sat 11am-12pm, 5pm-10pm Formerly an old-school tailor shop, Gedhawa is filled with soulful touches that mark it out as unique for these parts, from the lulling folk songs of Jaran Manopetch to hanging Lanna-style lanterns and textiles. It’s definitely worth exploring. It’s eccentric, yet at heart this is a homey Thai restaurant offering 100 plus Northern dishes all written up by hand on an elegant, silk-backed menu. The dish to open with is with the Lanna hors d’oeuvre (B280++), which is a big, rustic wooden bowl brimming with fresh vegetabsles and traditional pastes nam prik noom and nam prik ong, as well as fried pork skin, moo yaw (pork sausage), nam (fermented sausage) and Northern spicy sausage or sai aour. We also enjoyed the deep-fried shrimp with yummy tamarind sauce and crispy noodles (180B), and, the highlight of our meal, the deep-fried fish split in half, one dressed with sweet and sour sauce, and served with a spicy nam jim seafood (dipping sauce). As these dishes prove, Gedhawa is no mere nostalgia trip – it’s an adventure in northern flavours too.
3 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | 02-248-0287 | 10am-10pm | $ Southern Thai cuisine offers a brave new world of pungent, searing hot flavours. Run by a family from Chumporn – a province in the deep south – this quaint yellow house is one of the best places in town to give it a trial (by fire), serving fiery southern curries, salads, stir-fries and vegetables dishes. Start yourself off with something mild, like the dok kajon fai dang. Cooked in oyster sauce, this stir-fry stars flecks of pork and a crunchy fern-like vegetable and is delicious. Not hot enough for you? Here are three dishes that push the spice-o-metre to overdrive: the khua kling nua (fried beef in spicy paste with kaffir lime leaves), the gaeng leang (turmeric-yellow curry), and, the most tongue-scouring but gratifying dish we tried, the gaeng dtai pla (a rich, complex, maroonred bamboo & pumpkin curry). Also interesting is goong pad kapi sataw: a strong-tasting stir-fry pairing juicy prawns with fermented shrimp paste and green, bitter beans. Note that dishes for foreigners will probably be less assertively spiced.
เก็ดถะหวา สุขุมวิท ซ.35
มัลลิกา ซ.รางน้ำ�
MALLIKA [MAP 8/L10]
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 7 5
FOOD & DRI N K
listings
BURGER FACTORY
AMERICAN BURGER FACTORY [MAP 3/T2] 3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 02-714-4249 www.facebook.com/theburgerfactory | 11:30am-11pm Sun-Thurs, 11:30am-midnight Fri-Sat Stylishly wrought in black metal, Burger Factory owes more to the ironsmith’s atelier than your typical American-style diner. Not that that’s a bad thing – unlike your typical American-style diner this joint located in the corner of a hip but low-key strip mall on Ekamai Soi 10 looks every inch the afterwork hangout, like a stylish gastro-bar. Buns and patties are made fresh on-site each day, in the open kitchen that flanks the entrance. Even more impressive: they only serve ground grass and grain fed beef from Australia. We chomped on three from the list of eleven, all of them cooked medium, as is the default. The first, the Patty Melt (B300), was compact and handsome, with a generous layer of caramelized onions and melted gruyere and Gouda cheeses. The second, the Red Devil Burger (B300), was heftier and messier due to its extras: an omelet and thick layer of spicy sauce. Both hit the spot; but for us it was the least fancy of the three, the Factory Burger (B290), that
7 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
INDIAN CHAAT
impressed most. Sinking your teeth into this trim bacon cheeseburger, you could taste the homemade-ness, as the patty flaked in the mouth, releasing a succulent burst of flame-grilled flavour. Accompanying it were some squiggly, seasoned curly fries (other options: French fries or homemade potato salad), and washing it down was a vanilla milkshake – a tasty one, albeit lacking the thick, creamy texture we’re used to.
เบอร์เกอร์ แฟคตอรี่ เอกมัย ซ.10
INDIAN INDIAN CHAAT [MAP 3/J8] 59/4, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (next to Robinsons School of Music, close to where the road joins Soi 31) | 02-259-7900 | indianchaat. blogspot.com In Hindi, the word ‘chaat’ means lick, and is the colloquial term used for snacks, the only type of food on the menu at Indian Chaat. The restaurant is the brainchild of an expatriate Indian family with a simple aim: to produce the most authentic Indian snacks found in Bangkok at the capital’s most reasonable prices. The surroundings are simple but functional, with red tablecloths and a sprinkling of artwork on the walls.
KUPPADELI
By the entrance is a glass display cabinet where the traditional sweets are kept, a tempting array that includes ras malai (sugary balls of paneer soaked in clotted cream and fl avoured with cardamom, B20) and the brownish-red coloured gulab jamun (deepfried milk product soaked in a sugary syrup, B15). On the main menu is a true smorgasbord of flavours. If, like us, you’re not completely up to speed with your Indian snacks, Raj, the scion of the family, and his team are happy to make suggestions. That’s how we ended up with an order of pani puri (also known as golguppe, B50 for six pieces), traditional street food that consist of hollowed out, deep-fried dough balls that you make a small hole in, fill with potato, onion, chick peas and sauces, and then devour in one, taste-exploding bite.
อินเดียนจาร์ค ถ.สุขุมวิท 23
INTERNATIONAL KUPPADELI [MAP 4/E2] 219/1A The Pride | Sukhumvit Soi 21 BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-664-2350 www.kuppadeli.com | 7am-10pm Fans of the original Kuppa will be pleased to hear that, while the location is less leafy
bangkok101.com
listings
SAM’S FISH AND CHIPS
and the menu shorter, the main components at Kuppadeli are the same: bright and stylish chic café interior, comfy furniture, lots of glossy magazines, and, the big draw, affordable comfort food. The slim menu comes divided into pies, salads, sandwiches, burgers, tapas, meat and fish, each section offering between two and eight punter-friendly dishes. Unsurprisingly, the opening ‘All Day Brunch’ section is the biggest, starring tried-and-tested Kuppa stalwarts like scrambled eggs with Tasmanian smoked salmon (B 295), and pinto beans ciabatta (B180). Portions are generous. Pop in for a quick bite by yourself and salads like the fruity fig, rocket and chicken salad (B 250) and sandwiches are manageable, but much of the rest is better suited to sharing. Gourmet coffee and sumptuous cakes are a highlight, the smell of freshly ground beans emanating from the roaster, and the display counter worth a second glance. Seating ranges from chic, modern tables and chairs stretching the length of the long counter with open kitchen, to a slim outdoor terrace, and a cosy mezzanine with banquettes perfect for lingering on. Free parking in the building available.
เดอะ ไพร์ด สุขุมวิท ซ.21 SAM’S FISH & CHIPS (THAI AND WESTERN) [MAP 5/J6] 146 Phiphat Soi 2, Soi Convent 02-234-73335, 089-115-2789 BTS Chong Nonsi | Daily 5pm-10pm | $$ Located down quiet Phiphat Soi 2 off Convent Road, this fish ‘n’ chip mecca is located on the roof of – guess who – Sam’s house. Bored by the idea of retirement, and looking for something to keep him busy in the evenings (he still has a fulltime consultancy job during the day), Manus ‘Sam’ Surapisitchat struck upon the idea of opening his own restaurant. Rightly, he reasoned that his own home (he was actually born in it) would make the ideal location, and set about converting the unused rooftop into a fully functioning eatery, complete with open kitchen, landscaped garden, and wealth of rustic charm. Although the menu bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRI N K
WATER LIBRARY
contains a number of Thai dishes, the largely expatriate clientele mostly come here for the Western favourites, including dishes such as pan-fried prawns (B98), lobster soup (B69), New England style clam chowder (B69) and John Dory (B98) with chips (B39). The latter is without doubt one of the best value – and best tasting – fish ‘n’ chips you’ll find in Bangkok. However, the true attraction here is Sam himself, a gregarious and generous character always willing to share a story (such as how, during the Vietnam War, he was stationed in the American state of Colorado) and a drink.
แซมส์ ฟิช แอนด์ ชิปส์ ถ.คอนแวนต์ WATER LIBRARY AT GRASS [MAP 4/Q2]
264/1 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), Thong Lor Soi 12 |089-520-7066 | Mon – Sat 6 pm – 1 am / dinner at 7:30 pm There’s no other non-hotel operation attempting the level of sophistication, chutzpah and – let’s face it – price, as the guys behind The Water Library at Grass. For starters there are just ten seats (fewer than a back street raan aharn), all of them at a sushi counter (although they don’t serve sushi). And they only have a set menu. Chef Haikal Johari heads the kitchen but also presents the dishes, explaining both the ingredients and the best way to eat them. This is less chef and diners, more entertainer and audience, and much of the restaurant’s success will depend on Haikal’s personality and infectious enthusiasm. The 12 course menu with eight wines (or, more accurately, drinks) changes every few weeks according to the seasons in the countries they source product. And there’s a lot on these complex plates, with modern techniques and funky presentation to the fore. Belon oysters come with beurre blanc ice-cream, caviar and yuzu; Brittany lobster sits in a sardine can with bouillabaisse sauce; rib eye has sides of porcini marmalade and violet potatoes. Dinner is B 8,400++ with wines or B16,800++ with superior wines, but they will also build you a custom dinner, for a custom price, with wine choices including Chateaux d’Yquem, Lafite and Mouton Rothschild, M AY 2 0 1 3 | 7 7
FOOD & DRI N K
listings TORO SUSHI
ENOTECA ITALIANA
some up to 70 years old. Downstairs is a bar, outdoor tables and, opposite, a wine bar with 600 labels and an imported wine specialist and mixologist.
วอเตอร์ ไลบรารี่ แอท กราสส์ ทองหล่อ ซ.12
ITALIAN ENOTECA ITALIANA [MAP D3-4] 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 (enter from Soi 29 or 31) BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4386 | www. enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight | $$$ A small bar, arch shapes, and exposed brickwork; arty posters, a blackboard menu, a seven-table slice of northern Italy in downtown Bangkok. Chef Stefano Merlo arrived here with a respect for tradition and a flair for theatrics following spells at the Michelin starred Le Canlandre, in Padua, and the Tokyo branch of Enoteca Pinchiorri, another Michelin stalwart, in Florence. His six-course tasting menu (around B1,400 and only available for the whole table) offers the chance to try a wide selection of dishes. The opener – a tidbit of luxury carbonara sauce, cleverly served in a hollowed egg shell, and eaten with a teaspoon – is followed by black ink cappuccino, in which cubelets of tender slow cooked squid in its own ink are topped with creamy whipped potato. Presented in a glass jug, it resembles blackcurrant fool, with equally comforting tastes and textures. Later, there’s saffron risotto flecked with the strong dark flavours of liquorice; rich suckling pig intriguingly balanced by coffee-laced chestnut puree; and the hotcold rush of chocolate foam served on crushed ice seasoned with rum.
เอ็นโนติก้า สุขุมวิท ซ.27 MEDICI [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55 / 555 Soi Lang Suan BTS Chit Lom | 02-630-4000 | www.hotelmusebangkok.com | 12am-2:30 pm, 6pm-late Located at the bottom of a staircase lined with ornate wrought iron balustrades, Medici is of a different time and place – the luxurious underbelly of Prohibition-era New York perhaps. The food might not be as 7 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
MEDICI
adventurous as the film-set perfect setting (think Boardwalk Empire), but it’s certainly hitting the spot. And not outrageously pricey, either, given the quality on offer. Helming the kitchen is Tuscan-born Francesco Lenzi, a young chef who raves about his artisanal produce, most of it imported from the motherland. Already popular is his good value lunchtime set menu, with its choice of antipasti, like arugula salad with grilled Tuscan sausage, a spaghetti, fish or meatbased main, plus optional dessert (B 379 for 2 courses, B 450 for 3). The à la carte menu ups the ante with starters like the cold cuts and cheese platter (B 490): a wooden rack arrives piled high with moist slices of palma ham, salami, biroldo and other hard to find imported cold cuts, plus a few rare soft cheeses. As well as risottos and perfectly al dente pastas, Francesco’s signatures include foie gros ravioli doused in a rich, thick truffle sauce, and Filleto alla Rossini (grainfed Australian beef tenderloin on a bed of spinach and sliced black truffle and topped with foie gros; B1,290).
รร.โฮเทล มิวส์ ซ.หลังสวน
JAPANESE TORO SUSHI [MAP 3/R8] No.88 in soi connecting Thonglor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 02-712-8447 | www. facebook.com/torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Easily to spot, Toro Sushi is located on the second floor of No.88, a small community mini-mall located down a soi connecting Thonglor Soi 5 and Soi 9. Rather oldfashioned looking, with slats of light wood and bare bulb lighting like the one used in Japanese markets, there’s nothing at all fancy about it – and in a city where style often strong-arms substance that’s part of its charm. The same old-school approach extends to the food. There’s lots of sushi on the menu, but little in the way of the fancy sushi creations you find at your heaving chain equivalents. Starters include chawanmushi (B80), steamed egg custard served warm. Another light opener
is the Engkawa sushi (B120 per piece). Though it looks a little oily, the lightly grilled flatfish, rice and accompanying sour ponzu sauce add up to very moreish mouthfuls. As well as sides and sushi, fresh sashimi boats are also served, the most expensive being the Sashimi Moriawase 7 (B1900) featuring seven different kinds: otoro, akami, hamachi, salmon, mandai, Saba and Japanese scallops. The meat is fresh, the wasabi sauce reeks of quality, and the rice has a mild smooth taste. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table, not the sushi bar.
โตโร่ ซูชิ ซอยเชื่อมทองหล่อ 5-9
VIETNAMESE XUAN MAI [MAP 3/Q5] 351/3 Sukhumvit 55 (near Thong Lor Soi 17) | 02-185-2619 | BTS Thong Lor | www. xuanmairestaurant.com | Tue-Sun 11am2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm A couple of years back, former FBI agent and unintentional chef Meyung Robson’s popular Vietnamese restaurant left the homey confines of Soi 13 for the main stage of Thong Lor. Small, friendly and delicious, this homey restaurant has an army of followers that will surely be migrating along with Meyung. Spring rolls are definitely the way to start and the feather-light, deep fried Imperial rolls still had us salivating the next morning. Follow that up with a healthy portion of young lotus shoot salad with shrimp and BBQ pork, contrasted beautifully with a side of peanut crackers. The ridiculously tender tamarind braised pork with rice was delicious, but despite being a Vietnamese restaurant, you’ll be doing yourself an injustice if you don’t save room (be warned: portions are massive) for the brilliant passion fruit crème brulee. Served in a coconut, it’s irresistibly creamy and you won’t be able to stop from scraping the tender and aromatic meat off the sides of its shell.
ซวนมาย ทองหล่อ ซ.17. รร.โนโวเทล สยามสแควร์ bangkok101.com
Get your wine list int o shape! Wine List of the Year
Thailand Awards 2013 Registration opens May 1, closes July 31 2013 Be in the running to become Thailand's Best National Wine List!
“Good lists ought to be fresh, uncomplicated, brief, accessible to read
encouraging customers to buy glasses of wine… lists which have been highly praised have clearly communicated what is for sale; and have some connection between their cuisine, its origins, and wine from the respective regions which reflect both food style and wine culture…
“
Peter Scudamore-Smith, Master of Wine and Chairman of Judges
“We have guests in the resort because of the wine list. They
saw the award we won -- the Best Wine List in Thailand… that kind of marketing is invaluable. I think more establishments should look at the wine list as an important part of the revenue department.
“
Dawid Koegelenberg (left) of The Sarojin with founder of Wine List of the Year Awards, Jon Hyams
Go to www.winelistoftheyearthailand.com to enter the Awards! E. info@winelistoftheyearthailand.com
CM2
NIGHTLIFE ON THE MONEY
One of the biggest nights out in Bangkok this month promises to be the appearance of Oliver $ at Bed Supperclub on May 2. Bed, of course, is a Bangkok institution and Oliver $ is one of their favourite artists, fusing old-school house sensibilities with modern, tweaked out production techniques to devastating effect. He made waves on the dancefloor with his banging track Doin Ya Thang, which is guaranteed to get the crowd going. And, ultimately, these are among the best nights to visit Bed, when there’s a committed, party-loving bunch in attendance.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Trance Music Lovers Thailand celebrate their second anniversary with what promises to be a blockbuster event at Sonic on May 18. The Ekkamai venue is a favourite among hip, well-dressed young Thais, striking a perfect balance between sleek nightclub beats and a more relaxed indoor-outdoor bar vibe. But for this event, it promises to go into clubbing overdrive, with DJ Rory Gallagher spinning up a storm.
A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING
Barely a month goes past without Q Bar delivering another shot of after-hours excitement and their Bangers and Mashups on May 15 promises to be another unforgettable evening on Soi 11. Whatever your tastes, Q Bar is mixing it all together into a bold, eclectic cocktail – hip hop meets rock meets disco. Although a fixture in Bangkok already, Q Bar continues to reinvent itself and this event promises to keep our wheels spinning.
HOT POTATO
Thai pop-rock band Potato will undoubtedly dust off their all-time hit singles, like Ruk Tae Doo Lae Mai Dai (or ‘Cannot Keep True Love’). And they’ll give their new material a run as well when they perform at Zaleng Edition, Ratchada Soi 4 on May 14. The place fits more than 1000 visitors but t’s going to be crowded. Check facebook.com/ zaleng.edition for updates on tickets.
bangkok101.com
XXXX 2013 | 81
NIGHTLI FE
review
VIE BAR - Cocktails with an eastern twist -
T
he explosion in the number of places to go for a cocktail in Bangkok shows no signs of letting up – something to celebrate, surely – but it has raised the bar for new watering holes. It’s not enough to simply serve up the classics, even if executed well. The guys who run the mobile bars on soi 11 can do that. Rather, sleeker cocktail bars need to go the extra mile and the folks behind Vie Bar, in the hotel of the same name on Phaya Thai Rd, seem to understand this. The interior is beautifully designed – when busy it must feel like one of Bangkok’s most stylish haunts but, on those quieter nights, the polished surfaces, hard corners and slinky lines combine to make it feel slightly echoey. It’s an obstacle for all up-market hotel bars – how to be highfashion and welcoming at the same time. Vie, though, has a couple of distinct advantages. The first is their access to the menu from YTSB – that’s Yellow Tail Sushi Bar – which is upstairs in the same building. That’s a long way ahead of the usual bar fare. More importantly, Vie Bar is trying to do something truly interesting with its cocktails, which start at B180, taking the classics and augmenting them by introducing Japanese flavours and ingredients. It doesn’t always come off – very few cocktail bars boast a menu where each concoction is a solid-gold winner – but there’s enough going on to encourage further experimentation. For example, the Ginza Strip is a gin martini with the 8 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
addition of cucumber syrup. The idea is intriguing and the drink itself is beautifully presented but the cucumber flavour, although perfectly pleasant, perhaps overwhelms the bite of the martini, which should still be there in a wellbalanced cocktail. It’s decidely quaffable and goes down easy but drinkers still want to taste the booze. The concept works better in the YTSB Mojito, which, as the name gives away, is a standard white-rum mojito elevated spectacularly by the inclusion of umeshu, a Japanese plum liqueur. Mojitos are drunk in vast quantities the world over because they’re refreshing and because the punch of the rum is leavened by the lime and mint. And that’s all going on here, but the umeshu adds a delicious sting in the tail, lingering on the tongue long after the rest of the drink has disappeared down the hatch. It’s a reminder that this place has some real potential and that, when it hits its stride, could become a favourite. รร.ว ี ถ.พญาไท
VIE
[MAP 8/J12]
Vie Hotel, 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd | 023-093-939 viehotelbangkok.com | Daily 6pm-1am bangkok101.com
review
8 3 | M AY 2 0 1 3
NIGHTLI FE
bangkok101.com
N IGHTLI FE
listings
BASH
NIGHTCLUBS BASH [MAP 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | Midnight-very late bashbangkok.com Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. American owner Daryl Scott, a well-known club scene figure, has spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it. In the LED-wrapped booth here, DJs spin mainly house and techno, while on the top floor it’s mainly hip-hop.
แบช สุขุมวิท ซ.11 BED SUPPERCLUB [MAP 3/C4] 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 bedsupperclub.com | 7.30 pm-1am With its uber-modern oval spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-notch talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events.
เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 DEMO [MAP 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) 02-711-6970 | 8pm-1am 8 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thong Lor area is Demo: a squat former tenement building turned graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find in East London or some other hipsterville; it sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system.
เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10 FUNKY VILLA [MAP 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 | BTS Thong Lor 08-5253-2000 | 6 pm-2 am | The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds.
ฟังกี้ วิลล่า ทองหล่อ ซ.10 GLOW [MAP 3/G5] 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-261-3007 glowbkk.com | 6pm-1am This boutique club challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of underground electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website.
โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23 LEVELS [MAP 3/E8] 6th Floor, Aloft Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 11 levelsclub.com | 9pm-3am daily One of the newest clubs on Soi 11 (along with Bash) is drawing big crowds, especially during weekends and international DJ flyins. Located in the front annex of the Aloft Hotel, directly opposite Bed, entry is via a lift. Step out of it and you emerge out on to a semi-open air terrace lit by a glowing bar. Our favourite spot: the banquettes with a birds-eye view down over the soi. The rest of the club hasn’t made such a big impression on us, yet. At the far end of the huge main room, a DJ spins mainly
ROUTE 66
house music in front of a tiered danceflooor spotted with tables and podiums. Dancers step up to get the crowd going. There’s also a low-ceilinged room at the back that opens up later. On Thursdays ladies get 3 free drinks, and Fri-Sat there’s a free bar until 11pm for B500.
เลเวลส์ รร.เอลอฟท์ แบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.11 MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm until late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
มิกซ์ ดิส โก้เทค กรุงเทพฯ ถ.เพลินจิต ROUTE 66 [MAP 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area.
รูท 66 อาร์ ซี เอ bangkok101.com
listings
Q BAR
TAPAS [MAP 5/J 5] Silom Soi 4 | 02-632-7982 | tapasroom.net | 8 pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Weeknights are very quiet, but weekends are always hopping from about midnights onwards. And if it’s not, there’s the outside terrace: a good spot for cocktails and some of the best people watching in town. The tipples are mixed strong, and watching this soi’s comings and goings an eye-opening experience to say the least. The B200 entry fee on Fridays and Saturdays includes a drink.
ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 THE CLUB [MAP 7/F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairy-tale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Musicwise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4-4 beats, usually craniumrattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
เดอะคลับ ข้าวสาร Q BAR [MAP 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8 pm-1 am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with 8 5 | M AY 2 0 1 3
big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife 12 years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space. Some relative solitude and a pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found up here and on the outdoor terrace, which is perfect for a breather. Ladies get free entry on Wednesday nights – and two free drinks!
คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.11
HOTEL BARS & CLUBS BARSU [MAP 3/F 6] 1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8 to 10pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, the multi-talented DJ D’Zier spins an infectious blend of house, r&b, soul, latin and whatever else keeps you movin’. As well as creative cocktails (our pick: the tom yum yum - a cold cocktail version of the iconic hot and spicy soup), a ‘Night Bites’ menu of delicious premium finger food is also on hand to keep those energy levels up.
รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท 12 CM² [MAP 4/D5] Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 02-209-8888 | cm2bkk.com | 10pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in sixteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dance floor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they
NIGHTLI FE
ST REGIS
want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially lifechanging audition. Currently that includes the impressive Crush Crew, who perform their renditions of modern hip-hop, R&B and other charting hits daily except Tuesday from 10:45pm onwards. International / Thai food and a huge cocktail list are served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge. Currently the entrance fee is B550 (2 drinks included). The best Ladies Night in Bangkok is at Concept CM² of Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square every Monday, with ladies getting exclusive privileges and free entrance all night long. CM² continues to reign over Bangkok’s nightclubs and live music venues with resident DJs.
รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ.6 ST REGIS BAR [MAP 4/G 7] St Regis Hotel, 159 Rajadamri Rd | stregis.com
Mon-Fri 10am-1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out onto the terrace of the St Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out onto the terrace. Come for this, stay for the view. Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horseracing with a fine malt whisky in hand.
รร. เดอะ เซนต์ รีจิส กรุงเทพฯ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ
BARS WITH VIEWS ABOVE ELEVEN [MAP 3/C4] Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi bangkok101.com
N IGHTLI FE
listings
MOON BAR
11 | 02-207-9300 | aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list, an electro soundtrack with special DJ nights on Wednesday (Salsa), Friday (Hip Hop) and Saturday (House), and this is Bangkok’s only Peruvian restaurant, a cuisine with a bit of worldwide buzz. It will suit the adventurous.
เฟรเซอร์ สวีทส์ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท ซ.11 LONG TABLE [MAP 3/H8] 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 longtablebangkok.om | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players;= and hair-tousling breezes.
อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16 MOON BAR [MAP 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | banyantree.com | 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a 8 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.
รร.บันยันทรี ถ.สาทรใต้ NEST [MAP 3/C4] 9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include MODE, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape rather than detached from it.
เลอฟินิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 PHRANAKORN BAR [MAP 7/G6] Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am Only a five minute walk from Khao San Road, multi-level Phranakorn Bar is an old favourite of local art students and creatives, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestleand-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is cheap, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side.
พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำ�เนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน RED SKY [MAP 4/F 3] Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd
centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. Buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm.
รร.เซ็นทาร่าแกรนด์ แอทเซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.พระราม 1 THE SPEAKEASY [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the newest al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B 270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka.
รร.โฮเทล มิวส์ ซ.หลังสวน SKY BAR / DISTIL [MAP5 / C5] 63rd F, State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and bangkok101.com
listings
NIGHTLI FE
N IGHTLI FE
listings
shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
สเตททาวเวอร์ สีลม
BARS APOTEKA [MAP 3/E8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | apotekabkk.com Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-12am As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage colored bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase.
อโปเตก้า สุขุมวิท11 BADMOTEL [MAP 3/R6] 331/4-5 Soi Thonglor | 02-712-7288 5pm-1am | facebook.com/badmotel The name Badmotel may conjure up something kitsch and grimy but, in fact, this three floor bar and restaurant is extremely sparsely decorated and painted a bright white, giving it the feel of a pre-decorated house. The top two floors can feel a little lacking in atmosphere, but the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a very pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s ‘Creation Cocktails’, all B220. The imaginative drinks menu includes locally inspired must-tries like the Hahaha Martini (made from Ketel vodka, homemade chilli liqueur, galangal, cumin powder and pickled grapes), Teenager’s Iced Tea (made using traditional Thai tea with four sprits and liqueur) and the Never Say Never (a rumbased cocktail served with Thai dessert condiments).
แบดโมเท็ล ทองหล่อ ซ.15 BARLEY BISTRO [MAP 5/H5] 4/F Food Channel, Silom Road | 087-033-3919 | 8 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
BARLEY BISTRO
daily 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by buildings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barleystalk sculptures and good for postwork/ pre-club cocktails. Live bands play in the bar most nights.
บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม BREW [MAP 3/Q6] Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace. Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically-themed Fat’r Gutz. Due to Thailand’s head-smackingly high import duties, most bottles hover around the B240-260 mark.
ซีน สเปซ ทองหล่อ ซ.13 CAFÉ TRIO [MAP 4/H6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252- 6572 6pm-1am, closed some Sundays
Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and head 50m down the road.
คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน CHEAP CHARLIE’S [MAP 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5 pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.
ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก) CLOUDS [MAP 3/Q2] 1st F, SeenSpace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | cloudslounge.com The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leafencasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar and served in steel trays. A lively crowd-puller with indoor and outdoor seating, the result is enjoyably bizarre: think space-station drinking hole.
คลาวด์ โครงการการซีสเปซ ซ.ทองหล่อ 13 bangkok101.com
listings chicken, etc. Perhaps the most memorable thing about Escapade, though, are its proportions: you have to squeeze past strangers to enter, a quirk which makes it more intimate than most.
เอสกาเพด เบอร์เกอร์ แอนด์ เชค ถ.พระอาทิตย์ FACE BANGKOK [MAP 3/S7] FACE
ESCAPADE [MAP 7/E3] 112 Pra-Artit Rd, Pranakorn | Tue-Sun 12pm12am | facebook.com/escaburgersandshakes Unlike most bars in the Khao San Road area, the owners of this bohemian holein-the-wall, Khun Karn and Khun Van, are the sorts of locals you might actually strike up a conversion with. Karn, a former bartender at the Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental, mixes creative, tasty and strong cocktails to order for only B140-B200. Tell him your wildest alcohol-sodden fantasies and he’ll deliver you the tipple of your dreams in minutes. Van, meanwhile, rustles up lip smacking bar grub: hot dogs buried in jalapeno peppers and sizzling bacon; baskets of honey-glazed deep-fried
8 9 | M AY 2 0 1 3
29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 facebars.com | 11:30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices. Stay in the Bar and order from the snack menu instead. And have another Japanese Slipper.
เฟซแบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.38
NIGHTLI FE
FAT GUT’Z [MAP 3/Q2] 264 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) 027-149-832 | fatgutz.com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular dish is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two).
แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55 DEMO [MAP 3/P8] Sukhumvit 49 | 02-662-6120 5pm-1am | facebook.com/greasebkk This new four-floor bar is so new that nobody seems to have discovered it yet. On entry, be prepared for every member of staff
bangkok101.com
N IGHTLI FE
listings
to find out how you heard about the venue. Once you get over the feeling you’ve gatecrashed someone else’s party, it’s easy to feel at home. Each floor has its own theme, from Amy Winehouse, the sleek wine bar and restaurant to Cry Baby, the casual lounge floor where the walls are lined with pop art pics of babies crying and the tables stacked with Kerrang magazine. The other floors include a roof top bar and a club with low-ceilings carpeted in blinking LEDs. The floor-of-choice seems to be Cry Baby, the only level with other guests the night we visited. While the atmosphere is relaxed and the dubstep and reggae beats are sure to put you in a chilled out state of mind, the drinks prices could ruin your buzz; signature cocktails, such as the Biscuit & Butter (Pamparo rum, butterscotch liqueur, Malibu, pineapple juice, lemon and vanilla syrup) are a staggering B340.
กรีส สุขุมวิท 49 HYDE & SEEK [MAP 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has paneled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas.
แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี TUBA [MAP 8/S14] 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 02-711-5500 design-athome.com | 11am-2am Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours (buy one get one 9 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned artschool hipster types to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must.
คอสมิค คาเฟ่ อาร์ซีเอ SAXOPHONE PUB [MAP 8/K10]
WATER LIBRARY
free between 5-8pm daily) mean there really are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases – the glassware can be that big!).
ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21) WATER LIBRARY @ GRASS [MAP 3/Q2]
Grass Thonglor, 264/1 Thonglor 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790++ is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900++ a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador. This operation has a small cool bar, all black and glass, and opposite through full wall windows a clubby wine bar with just three tables, leather chairs and sofas and wine racks.
วอเตอร์ไลบรารี่ แอท กราสส์ ทองหล่อ ซ.12
LIVE MUSIC COSMIC CAFE [MAP 8/Q12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically
3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-246-5472 saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2 am Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Attracting youngish Thais and the odd foreigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, woodfilled floors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.
แซ๊กโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท
JAZZ CLUBS BAMBOO BAR [MAP 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Ave mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Cynthia Utterbach.
รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ.โอเรียลเต็ล BROWN SUGAR [MAP 7/J5] 469 Phrasumen Road | 089-499-1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Its exterior is impressive, resembling a ritzy old cinema house. And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant out back.
บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ.พระสุเมร bangkok101.com
The Stylish
New Way to Sleep in Bangkok
seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com
9 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
bangkok101.com
THEATRE Words by Gaby Doman
T
AVAILABLE AT: THEATRE ATELIER [MAP 2/F6] 15/231-233 Soi Rachadapisek 36, Ladyao Chatuchak 02-541-7596
SIAM CENTRE [MAP 8/J13]
heatre never fails to produce an exciting and fun collection and its small cruise collection is no exception. Cruise collections are traditionally small and casual, perfect for those types with the money to go jetting off somewhere between seasons. Basically, it should encapsulate the perfect holiday wardrobe. Theatre’s collection has captured the vacation vibe perfectly, despite using an unusual cruise colour palate of black and white. The entire collection, for both men and women is unadulterated monochrome with not so much as a splash of yellow to lighten the look. But somehow the collection remains light and fun. Perhaps it’s because the black and white combo is a cheeky nod to sailor stripes (the collection is showcased in the look book accessorized with sailor hats), or perhaps it’s the ease of the silhouettes, the flowing fabrics and the overall suggestion of comfort. The men’s collection is dominated by voluminous harem pants, checked and dappled with black and white and somehow managing to steer clear of chef trouser comparisons. The slouchy slacks are teemed with striped sleeveless hoodies (black and white, of course) or graphic print single-breasted jackets. The jacket is a great balancing piece that helps the collection toe the line between casual, with its boxy midriff revealing cropped t-shirts, rolled-up shorts and loose-cut hoodies and fashion-conscious, creating a wellrounded cruise collection. The women’s collection is less inspiring, and less comfortfocused, with collared three-quarter length dresses and plenty of heavy-weight fabrics making for a pretty but suitcasefriendly collection. However, the collection is just as rounded as the men’s in the sense you could pack the entire thing up for a mini-break and not need a single other garment. A sweeping floor-length skirt with a lace underskirt would make the ideal black-tie event statement piece, while horizontally striped A-line skirts with a visible tutu lining make a wearable daytime look – provided you’ve got killer legs and you’re very careful when walking up any stairs – especially when paired with form-fitting casual T-shirts for an effortless, ‘what, this old thing? I just threw it on’ style.
Theatre Dressing Room, Siam Centre 315 3rd Floor, Rama 1 02-251-3599
CENTRAL BANGNA [MAP 2/H12] 232 2nd Floor, Bangna-trad Rd | 02-361-0733 www.theatrebangkok.com bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 93
SHOPPING
unique boutique
OXOBJECT
U
nder the BTS Station Thong Lor, Oxobject is a small shop which sells exclusive interior decoration accessories. From the outside looking in, the shop looks pretty much like a house owned by an eccentric collector of rare objects. The lighting inside creates a lowkey atmosphere with a slight touch of serenity. According to the managing director there, Suriya Pojchaijongdee, the shop is made to blend in with the environment. According to him, most people don’t even notice this is a shop and many have asked him if Oxobject is new despite it being there for two years. The name Oxobject derives from the rusting process of iron-metal, material that is used to make most of the interior accessories at the shop. Channelling nature during the making process of the accessories will give each object an identity of its own, according to Suriya. He says each object will rust differently and that will give each of them a unique look and its own identity. Mr. Suriya adds: “We want to find beauty within the imperfections. “We want to make things look simplistic yet elegant and sophisticated”. Most objects at the shop are inspired by primarily shapes. Suriya explains that the accessories are made to look classic and minimal, to make them fit comfortably into every living space. While in the shop, one can notice that there are many interior accessories resembling horses. This has to do with the theme of spirituality Oxobject is trying to represent. Not a strange idea at all when considering that horses are often associated with spirituality in ancient mysticism. 9 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
OXOBJECT [MAP 3/S11] 806/4 soi Santisuk Sukhumvit 38 | 08-16855602 www.oxobject.com | Mon-Sat 9am-5pm bangkok101.com
market watch
SHOPPING
Ratchada Night Market
RATCHADA NIGHT MARKET
[MAP 8/Q2]
Parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao intersection Fri-Sat 5pm-late
V
endors at this night-time (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and second-hand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a torch and your bargaining skills.
Riechers Marescot pour Carven 78184.1/90 pétrole
come share with us the joy of buying fabrics ... be it for a glamorous wedding occasion, a celebratory evening dinner or cocktail party or for a stylish everyday wear ... ----- new arrivals - every 2 weeks! ----find us at: gandhiplus c025 2nd fl china world bangkok cynosure a002 g fl china world bangkok 0900-1830 mon-sun tel: 02-2252002 02-2224962 gandhi 326 phahurat road bangkok 0900-1800 mon-sun tel: 02-2255997 02-2255503 www.gandhi.co.th
bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 9 5
jj gem
SHOPPING
KEAW KHAM If you’re looking for authentic hill tribe attire or ethnicstyle decorations, then head to Keaw Kham at the JJ Weekend Market. The owner of this small shop is textile expert Sasivimol Jaisert, who devotes much of her spare time to hunting down quality made weaved products all the way from the north of Thailand up to China’s Guizhou province. As a result of Jaisert’s dedication, Keaw Kham is full from the floor to the ceiling with hanging and dangling accessories, apparel and decorations, including many non-traditional items you wouldn’t normally expect to find, such as pillow cases, gloves and even welcome mats.
KEAW KHAM Section 26 Soi 1 | 02-272-5879
JATUJAK MARKET
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix.
ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร bangkok101.com
> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. M AY 2 0 1 3 | 9 7
WELLN ESS
treatment
HEALTHLAND
HARNN HERITAGE
BANGKOK OASIS
HEALTHLAND SPA & MASSAGE [MAP 5/G7]
120 North Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi 02-637-8883 | www.healthlandspa.com 9am-11 pm | $$
A former restaurant houses this downtown spa, a huge palace for the body. Despite almost 50 private rooms (175 customers can be treated simultaneously), a peaceful air permeates the place. You’ll get relaxing, muted colours, smart ornaments and expertly performed treatments, all for only a smidge more than a backpacker place. Traditional Thai massages (B450 for two hours) are done in quasi-public but thick curtains guarantee some privacy. Groups of up to eight friends can book themselves into comfy, spick-and-span private rooms. The Aromatherapy Massage is something for the hardy ones; your muscles will get that passive workout.
เฮลท์แลนด์สปา แอนด์มาสซาจ ถ.สาทรใต้ HARNN HERITAGE SPA [MAP 8/J13] Siam Paragon, 4th Fl | BTS Siam | 02-6109715/6 | 10am-9pm | $$$
Before you drop from shopping at the monster mall that is the Paragon, stop in here for a spot of soothing.
An extension of the high-end Harnn beauty product line, this tiny spa is all Thai, all the time, and offers excellent, traditional therapies. Done up entirely in black stone, the rooms are small but high-ceilinged to compensate for tight quarters. Despite the excellent layout, however, rooms can feel cramped and crypt-like. Once a treatment begins, any claustrophobia melts away – the signature package, which includes a thorough sesame scrub, a very relaxing oil massage, and a hot sesame compress applied to key meridians on the body, is a complete pampering. Staffs are wonderfully professional and personable. Done relaxing? Pick up some Harnn products to continue the spa experience at home.
สยามพารากอน DAHRA BEAUTY & SPA [MAP 5/F5] Silom Soi 18 BTS Sala Daeng | 02-235-48112 | www.dahra-spa.com | 10am-11pm | $$
It’s a tribute to the glowing health of the local industry, or perhaps Bangkok’s status a regional spa hub, when a young-ish operation such as this one can offer a whopping 17-page treatment menu. That’s a whole 17-pages of slack-eyed indulgence, including the
intriguing likes of the ‘Desincrusting Aromatherapy Facial’, which was a new one on me (though not literally), and ‘Chocolate Hydrotherapy’, which sounds somewhat self-defeating. I opted for a Shiatsu, which was mercifully nicer than it sounded. Seriously, though, the menu at this cute two-storey spa, which is tucked next to the Triple Two Hotel, is extensive enough to rival the choice offered by more upmarket establishments – and the damage is a mere snip by comparison.
รร.ทริปเปิ้ลทู สีลม ซ.19 BANGKOK OASIS SPA [MAP 3/L8] 64 Sukhumvit 31 (Soi Sawasdee) | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | www. bangkokoasis.com | 02-262-2122 | Daily 10am-10pm | $$
Calm and relaxation aren’t words that spring to mind when one thinks of Sukhumvit Road. But in the bucolic, picturesque surroundings of this luxurious spa, jasmine scents, soothing music, wood décor and “aesthetic” vases of reeds combine to impart the feeling of being at one with nature. A link in a chain of up-and-coming day spas with therapists imported from Chiang Mai, the signature treatment here is the “four hands” massage, with two members of the team applying pressure simultaneously on both the upper and lower parts of the body. Resistance is futile: aches and pains will deliciously melt away. It might even be too much for visitors still reeling from the sheer abundance – and privileged pricing – of spas in the Kingdom.
แบงคอกโอเอซิสสปา ซ.สวัสดี
DAHRA 9 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1,000 $$$ :: B1,000-B2,000 $$$$ :: B2,000+ bangkok101.com
treatment
WELLN ESS
VALUE ADDED AT
So Thai Spa
S
ecreted deep inside Sukhumvit Soi 31, a soi not short on high-end day spas, So Thai Spa certainly has its work cut out. That said, while its garden townhouse setting isn’t as spectacular as some of its neighbours, it beats most of them hands down in the price department. Run by Oliver O’Dell and his wife Khun Siratikarn, it’s the second branch of an ambitious, rapidly expanding day spa group. Regular spa-goers will know it’s warm, exotic, modern look well. So Thai, it is. Think parquet floors, teak wood carvings and treatment beds festooned in silk runners. There are five rooms, all of them doubles with private shower and toilet facilities, and there are more on the way. While none of this is going to set the local spa scene alight, there is a bonus that you don’t come across very often – an outdoor swimming pool that you can take a dip in – plus, more importantly, some solid massage technique. For the best-selling Thai aromatherapy massage (B1,250 for one hour), our masseuse’s smooth strokes and focused kneading had us in a delightful, dreamy haze and left us feeling refreshed and supple, smelling like a lavender pouch. According to Khun Siratikarn, the masseuses are encouraged to use their own style and adapt it for each customer – a risky approach, but one that appears to be paying off.
โซ ไทย สปา สุขุมวิท ซ.31 SO THAI SPA [MAP 3/K8] 269 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-662-2691 www.sothaispa.com bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 9 9
COMM U NIT Y
making merit
OPERATION SMILE:
Helping kids express joy
A
smile is a symbol of happiness and joy, which happens when someone feels content. Whether you smile with your lips or smile with your cheeks, it’s a way for us to express how we’re feeling. If one is unable to smile because their lips and palate are not properly formed, does this mean that they are unable to express joy? This is where Operation Smile takes a significant role in helping kids and adult with cleft lip or cleft palate. The charity is composed with a group of surgery doctors going to the place in need. It is unfortunate that one in 700 children are born with a cleft lip, cleft palate or both. Although the cause of cleft 1 0 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
lips and palates is still unclear, it is believed to be caused by genetic or environmental factors during the first three months of pregnancy. And most infants won’t survive because they are unable to feed or choke to death when breast-feeding. “Even though parents care for their infants with cleft lip and palate, most parents are too protective and won’t let their child out into the world,” says Thitiya Cheeranond, Resources Development Manager at Operation Smile. “The surgery operation requires a lot of money. Some kids do not have a chance to see the face of their parents, who must go to Bangkok and find jobs to earn more money in order to afford the operation cost.” bangkok101.com
making merit
COMM U NIT Y
It costs roughly around B25,000 per person and Operation Smile basically operates in three main roles. A weekly mission sends a group of doctors and volunteers to remote parts of Thailand. They also work with hospitals and plastics surgeons capable of performing corrective surgery. Lastly, they offer post-operative care – volunteers can help patients practicing proper speech, as cleft lips can lead to difficulty in pronunciation. Operation Smile was first started in America and then grew into an international charity organisation. “When we first started [in Thailand], there are problems regarding cultural differences that needed to be solved,” says Apichai Angspatt, a volunteer doctor and managing director of reconstructive surgery at Chulalongkorn University. You do not need to be a doctor to assist the project. Besides funding, there are several ways to offer support. For instance, basic items such as toothbrushes and toothpaste can be donated. Also, you can volunteer in assisting speech conversation, both in English and Thai. You can make a difference, knowing they will end up smiling because you helped them.
OPERATION SMILE THAILAND FOUNDATION [MAP 4/H4] 12th Floor President Tower, Ploenchit Rd 02-656-1992 | thailand@operationsmile.org bangkok101.com
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 0 1
GETTING THERE 102 | A PRIL 2013
KHAO SAN ROAD
bangkok101.com
RAIL
Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th
SKYTRAIN (BTS)
AIRPORT RAIL LINK
The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central
railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT
RIVER
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.
ROAD
or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added.
BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com
A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.
motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.
TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuktuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B 10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. A PRIL 2013 | 103
MAP 1 Greater Bangkok A
B
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya MAP 2 >
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L MYANMAR
Uthai Thani
1
UTHAI THANI
CHAI NAT
2
Chiang Mai
LOP BURI
Nakhon Ratchasima c
Nakhon Ratchasima
Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang
NAKHON RATCHASIM A
SARABURI
3
Andaman Sea
Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya
Koh Samui
AYUTTHAYA
NAKHON NAYOK
PATHUM THANI 5
b
1 2
MALAYSIA
PRACHIN BURI
f c
RATCHABURI
VIETNAM
Gulf of Thailand
Krabi
Phuket
4
NAKHON PATHOM
Ubon
Bangkok
ANG THONG
KANCHANABURI
Udon Thani
Lop Buri
Kanchanaburi
LAOS
THAILAND
SING BURI
SUPHAN BURI
6
M
3
2
SA KAEO
BANGKOK f a
SAMUT SAKHON
CHACHOENGSAO
SAMUT
1 PRAKAN
SAMUT SONGKHRAM
CA M BODI A CHON BURI
Phetchaburi
7
Ko Sichang
PHETCHABURI 8
Pattaya RAYONG
Cha-am
CHANTHABURI
Rayong Hua Hin
Ko Samet
Muang Chantaburi
9
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10
Trat
Gulf of Thailand
M YA N M A R
Ko Chang
Prachuap Khiri Khan
11
Ko Kut
N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
1 0 4 | M AY 2 0 1 3
SIGHTSEEING a
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
FLOATING MARKETS Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1
MUSEUMS 1
Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods
NIGHT BAZAAR 1
Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]
NIGHTLIFE 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
HOTELS 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa
bangkok101.com
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N 
F
Tanya Tanee
PAK KRET
Don Mueng
2
Don Mueng Int. Airport
Ko Kret
Sai Mai
F
Royal Irrigation Dept.
3
Lak Si
F
F
Rajpruek
The Legacy
F
Northpark
4
e
Khlong Sam wa
Royal Thai Army Sport Center
F5
1
Thanont
F
Chatuchak Bang Sue
Bang Phlat
8
Huai Khwang
Saphan Sung
Bang Kapi
F
Pathumwan
Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai
Bang Rak
Khlong San *
Thon Buri 1
Chom Thong
F
9
10
1
Bang Kholaem
Lat Krabang
Suan Luang
Khlong Toei
Sathorn
60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park
Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande
Watthana
Lumpini
7
Wang Thong lang
DinDaeng Ratchathewi
Mini Buri
F
Navatanee
Phayathai
Taling Chan
6
Khan na Yao
Bueng Kum
Mo Chit
Dusit
Bangkok Noi
Panya Indra
Lat Phrao
Chatuchak
Bang Sue
Bang Bon
Bang Khen
F
MUENG NONTHABURI
Phasi Charoen
1
Prawet Yan 2 Nawa
Rat Burana
Phra Khanong 4
Phra Pradaeng
f
11
Suan Luang Rama IX
Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport
Bang Na
12
F
Summit Windmill
Bearing
Bang Khun Thian
13
F
Mueang Kaew
Thung Khru
14
F
Green Valley
15
PHRA SAMUT CHEDI
SAMUT PRAKAN
16
F
d
17
Bangpoo
Gulf of Thailand
bangkok101.com
18
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 0 5
MAP 3 Sukhumvit Road A
B
C
D
E
F
G
Phra Ram 9
1
Ram
H
J
a IX
K
L
M
Roya
m9 Prara ital Hosp
l Cit
y Ave
RC A ange R ing
Driv
2
Din
Da
en
kam
phae
ng P
het 7
Phet
g
Uthai
3
Ital Thai
e
) Phe
Makkasan
tcha
Stat
2nd
Phetchaburi
buri
4
road (Toll Expy
38/1
Su
7
het
Prasanmit
So
Su 9/1 3
hro m Ph on g
Soi
i1 6
HOTELS N
300 m 1 328 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway
1 0 6 | M AY 2 0 1 3
1
Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriot 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 2
11
Marriott Executive MARKETS Sukhumvit Park 4 Sukhumvit 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 ARTS & CULTURE 13 Sofitel Bangkok 1 Japan Foundation Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 2 Koi Art Gallery 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand MALLS Creative & Design 1 Robinsons Centre 2 Terminal 21 6 Nang Kwak 3 Emporium 7 WTF
8
The Pikture Gallery We*Do Gallery 10 RMA 9
bangkok101.com
Soi 24
So
10
13
Sukhumwit
2
wit
Tai
ay sw
ana
s re
iN
xp
So
nE
4
Phrom Pho
i 39
i2
um
9
it So
So
0
8
kh
Benjasiri Park
umw
wit
i2
i1
Su
5
Sukh
i 33
31
So
So
12
wit
wit
um
um
kh
kh
um
IR
Su
Su
kh
Soi
k
h ko
Benjakiti Park
12
15 13
Soi 35
it So
Soi
i 29
14 NO
Sukhumwit
umw
wit
it So
hum
Sukh
Suk
umw
i 27
Su
wit
10
3
Sukh
it So
23
Asok 16
Su
Na
1 6
umw
oy
Sukh
wb
Co
Soi
Soi
wit
12 2
hum
17
19
wit Soi
hum
7 9
Sukhumvit
ha
rm
Son
UA
iP
atdi
3
Suk
Soi
Soi
10
2
Suk
8
1
wit
4
Sukhum
i8
iP
ale
So
Ch
udi
Ton
an
QA
So
Saw
nmit
Soi
Prasa
hum
15
it So
i6
i2
mR
Soi
g Su
NZ
4
ri Suk
Soi
i 13
13
wit
wit
hum
hum
it So
i4
So
Rua
it So
So
wit
umw
wit
um
umw
um
Sukh
kh
kh
Sukh
Su
Su
Soi
Phloen Chit
11
Suk
umw
7
11
Soi
3
Soi
Soi
28
1
4
2
3
5 6
Suk
Sukh
wit
wit
hum
hum
wit
t Sin
Suk
Suk
Loe
hum
Nana
1
10
Soi
t
u
Lau
Chit Lom
17 8
LK
ont
ana
an
Soi
Suk
wit
Loe
hum
Nai
thay Khit
hit
12
kM
tth Wa
Ch
hai
ng
uea
14 35 31 38 39 26 2 15 7 32 29
Suk
Soi
Wit Som
Lom
en C
Aso
Soi
mC
Sea
aN
1
Rur
Soi
Nan
Nana
Soi
Chit
Phlo
i4
IN
Witthayu
tral Cen Lom Chit
it
So
i
ad rungr Bam ital Hosp
10
pM
wit
ur
8
9
Pho
Soi
ab
Soi
h etc
Soi
Ph
Soi
um
chat Bura kon ya Chai ital Hosp
7
ye in E Rutn ital Hosp
39
san
41
Soi
hom
ka Mak
kh
Asok
Soi
Nik
6
11
wit
ng P
um
phae
kh
kam
5
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
1
Noi uan
Ekkam
Lo 25
ai 22
i 19 Ekkama
Thong
Ekkam
Lo 23
6
2
my on
45
Soi N
Camillian Hospital
Thong
ano
g yon nom
g4
3
ng myo
ng Lo
33
ai 21
i Ba
on my
Bano
kamai
Soi Tho Ekkam
Prid
ano
Pridi
Soi Ek
i 28 Ekkama
iB
g4
Prid
2
Ekkamai 23
iB
cha
Thong Lo
Prid
Phet
A ge Ran
buri
Pr
ai 20
id
a iB
no
on my
g4
1 Prid
iB
an
n yo om
g3
7
4
Su kh um So
Sukh
wit
Ekkama
23
9
umw
i4
Ekka
i 18
mai 16
Su um
it So
kh
5
i4
/6
So
i 49
wit
25
9/1 3
37
20 o 13
36 22
6
27 24
Lo Thong
Ekkam
10
Ekkam
ai 5
ai 12
0
1
a
1 mai
kamai
Ekk
ai 1
Soi Ek
o9
34
Ph
lang
m on g
8
it
Ek
ka
ma
i6
8
adi
mM
iP
hro
So
Ek
di
Soi
Ma
P Soi
7
9
ng Lo
hro
Soi K
iP
ng L
Soi Tho
So
Tho
am
it 7
Ekk
j itive Sam vit um Sukh spital Ho
6
mw
21
hu
L hong
ai 14
Suk
T
Ekkam
ka
ma
i4
Sett hab ut
Soi Sa um
10
So i6 5
1
63
i6
Soi
So
t umvi Sukh spital Ho
it
wit
wit
Sukhumwit
Ekkamai
w
hum
um
5
59
i5 Su
Thong Lo
Phra Khanong
um
Suk
kh
Soi
40
wit
oi
11
hum
it S
8
i 36
i3
mw
So
Suk
hu
wit
wit So
w
34
Sukhum
Soi 28
m khu
oi it S
kh
Suk
kh
Soi
So
53
PH
Su
Su
wit
Soi
wit
um
hum
kh
wit
51
49
Soi
oi
47
18
Su
Su
hum
Suk
Suk
it S
oi
7 19
wit
mw
hum
hu
it S
Sukhumwit
Soi 26
Soi 24
Sukhumwit
Sukhumwit
Benjasiri Park
3 5
Suk
Suk
mw
i 39
Phrom Phong
hu
ukda
it So
Suk
umw
eng M
Sukh
Soi 35
Soi 33
Sukhumwit
9
42
30
12
11
CLUBS 1
Q Bar Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa 2
PUBS 11
12
The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver
bangkok101.com
13
13
The Robin Hood The Royal Oak 15 The Londoner 16 Black Swan
14
NIGHTLIFE 4
Long Table Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 5
18
Club Perdomo The Iron Fairies 21 Clouds 22 Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 35 Apoteka 20
36
Water Library Gossip Bar 38 Nest 39 Above Eleven 37
EMBASSIES IN
India
IR Iran LK
Sri Lanka
PH Philippines
Qatar Ukraine NO Norway QA UA
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 0 7
MAP 4 Siam / Chit Lom A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
5 Soi 3
Soi 25
Soi 29
Soi Tonson
Soi 6
Ratchadamri
Soi Lang Suan
NL
Soi Lang Suan1
13
d
Soi 2 Soi 3
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
8
Soi 4
Soi 3
i2
Ratchadamri
Soi Sukhumvit 1
Soi Nai Lert 15
UA
2
US
Soi 4
Soi 5
Soi 5
Chulalongkorn University Area
N
HOTELS 1
Pathumwan Princess Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 2
200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market
ARTS & CULTURE 1
BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery
1 0 8 | M AY 2 0 1 3
KH
BR
Sarasin
Soi 6
9
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 7
Sarasin Lumphini Park
SIGHTSEEING
MALLS
EMBASSIES
a
MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place
CH
Jim Thomson House Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussads d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine b
NIGHTLIFE a CM2 b
Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c
1
2
Switzerland
BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ
New Zealand
QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK
United Kingdom
US USA VN Vietnam
SHOPPING 16 17
Rud
b
NZ QA
uam
9
Soi R
Soi Mahatlek Luang 3
2
15
an
Henri Dunant
Soi 5
Soi 4
Soi11
Soi 3
Soi10
Soi 2
Soi 1 Soi 8
f
Soi Mahatlek Luang 2
8
7
VN
mvit
e
Phloen Chit 16
hith
Soi Mahatlek Luang1
12
Phloen Chit
Chit Lom FI
ukhu
Phaya Thai
13
ng P
Rajamangala University
g 11 7
Soi S
1
2 c
Dua
1
Soi 7
Soi 9
Siam 16 Siam Square
CH
ay
14
UK
Th. Witthayu
c 10 11
Nai Lert Park
Witthayu
10
8
Soi Som Khit
4 e 3
f
Soi Chit Lom
7
Wat Pathum Wanaram
Ratchaprarop
d
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 23
Soi 27
Soi 32
Soi 30
Soi 17
Soi 19
Soi 15
Soi 31 Soi 33
12
w ress
Soi Kaesem San1
Chit Lom
Exp
Soi Kaesem San 2
Witthayu Bridge
h 14 b
c 2
National Stadium
6
Soi 22
Prathunam
Rama I 5
6
Saeb
3
Srapathum Palace
1
9
ohn Nak
4
5
lerm
a
17
6
Khlong San
Hua Chang Bridge
3
5
ID
Soi 20
Ratchathewi 2
uri
Cha
Phetchaburi Soi 18
Phetchab
Soi 13
4
1
Siam Square Pratunam Market
bangkok101.com
E
kho
t are akh
Rat
2
Th aya
ong
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
t nan Du He
8 Than Tawan Soi 6
So i S a
Soi 4
Patpong 1 Patpong 2
Thaniya
Lumpini Park
Sala Daeng l
Convent
j
St. Joseph School
Silom
b
Soi 5
SG
14 CA
Ra
Sala Daeng 1/1
m
Sala Daeng 1
Soi 6
Soi 8
Soi 11 Yaek 3
Soi 7
Soi 9
Soi 13
or n S oi 1 1
TW
k
Soi 1
h
Chulalongkorn Hospital
5 o m 12 n BT
4
Chong Nonsi 17
a
Surawong
Sala Daeng
Trok Klue
g
11
Soi 3
Soi 7
Soi 10
Soi 12 Soi 9
Decho
Soi 14
Soi 11
Soi 1 8 Soi 16
Soi 13
nr y
Sap
Naret
Sam Yan
Pan
Cha
M
Ph
Soi S
chit
10
Soi 14
9
Chulalongkorn University
Soi Phra Phinit
Suan Phlu Soi 1
Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3
en
Phra
aN Phr Soi
6 Soi 2
Soi 2 2 Soi P/2 – Prach radit um
k 0
Maha Se
Charo aro
roen
Ch
Ch
Soi Nom
int Lo
63
Soi 13
1
oi
L
V
Soi Phiphat 2
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai Surasak King Mongkut’s University of Technology
K
BE
u i se – S a t h
rn tho Sa
gS
3
f
Soi 15
So
en Ra
t
i2
1
un Kr 5
aI
Soi Santiphap
ot
MM
So i 51 i5 3
7
run
2 8
J
Phloi
suri
3
So
n ar oe Ch an
i5
Iam
Rat
2
g
i5
chai
Pramuan
Saphan Taksin
an
Ch
Suras
ak
i5 1 0
44
46
S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en K
7 d
4
i5
e
Soi 1
i4
i 4 46
m
Surawong Kam
Silom
2
So
SathornSo
So
6
Soi 38 Soi 40
i4
So
So
e
So
Soi 3
Soi Puttha Os
So
3
idg
FR
Oriental
Taksin
Br
Rak–
4
Soi 3
Soi 3
2 n d Sta
Dumax
in
Ra
4
sway
Cha
2
b 5 c
1
Ma
en Kr Post
Bang
N
Trok Ph et
Soi 32
Wat Muang Khae 1 1Wat Suwan
Soi 39
Soi 30
Si Phraya PT
ha
ung
Na 3
H
Hua Lamphong
Si Phraya
pres
roen
N
6
te E x
Nak
2a Khlong San
Charo
hon
2
N
Tak s
ang
G
AU
95
Suan Suan
V
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai
MY
13
aI
MX GR
15
p
Phlu 6
Soi 1
Soi Saw
n
Marine Dept.
Lat Ya
F
Soi 5
D
anagarindra
4
Naradhiwas Raj
C N
as Naradhiwind Rajanagar ra
B
Soi Wanit 2
A
ai
Silom / Sathorn MAP 5
Soi Nantha Mozart
Phlu 8
Immigration Office
HOTELS 1
BARS WITH VIEWS
a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton NIGHTLIFE 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn b La Casa Del Habano 9 Chaydon Sathorn c Bamboo Bar f Niu's on Silom Bangkok 10 Pullman Bangkok g Barley Bistro & Bar j Eat Me Hotel G 11 Le Meridien k Tapas 12 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini PUBS 13 Banyan Tree 14 Dusit Thani e Jameson's 15 The Sukothai h The Pintsman 16 Sofitel SO l Molly Malone's 17 W Bangkok m The Barbican n O'Reilly's
ARTS & CULTURE 1
Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise
SHOPPING 1
Robinsons 2 River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store
N
AT Austria AU Australia BE Belgium
200 m
BT Bhutan
1 000 ft
CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR
France
MY Malaysia MX Mexico
1
N
River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market
MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan
SIGHTSEEING a b
1 0 9 | M AY 2 0 1 3
EMBASSIES
Snake Farm M.R. Kukrit’s House bangkok101.com
MAP 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A
B
C
1
Ba n D ok
h1u li n
E
F
G
H
Ma
M ai
J
itri
Ch
K
L
M
it
et i Ph Tr
iP
r ad
u
M it tr ph an
So
Hua Lamphong
Ch aro en Ya ow a r at K r So
i7
3 h
g j
Y So i 3
So
Y
un
Y5
So ng Saw at
2
Y
So
i2
Rama IV
C
at
it Tr i M si ang
2
P
S ong W
a n it 1
ur han
Ch aiy aphun
Trok Itsaranuphap
g
S oi W
D oi
uan
5
a ut an P h Sa p h
t Phu
6
g
han
N
ae n
S ap
Phu
t
han
Tha Din Daeng
D Din
Memorial Bridge
S ap
S
HOTELS Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion 1
200 m 1 000 ft River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market
ARTS & CULTURE 1
Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum 3 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 2
a
Princess Mother Memorial Park
Th
e pir Em
K la
4
TEMPLES
MARKETS
1 Long Krasuang Market Wat Ratburana School 2 Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) Wat Pra Phiren c Wat Bophit Phimuk 3 Pak Khlong Talat d Wat Chakrawat (Flower Market) e Wat Chaichana Songkhram 4 Yot Phimai Market f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat 5 Pahurat –Indian Fabric Market g Wat Samphanthawongsaram 6 Sampeng Market 7 Woeng Nakhon Kasem Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of (Thieves Market) 8 Khlong Tom Market the Golden Buddha) 9 Talat Kao (Old Market) 10 Talat Mai (New Market) SIGHTSEEING a
b
j
1 1 0 | M AY 2 0 1 3
na
S
N
Ba
ha
R at
ng
Ma
Na
Y
Y Soi 11
Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station
i1
9
Phadungdao–Soi Texas
Y So i 9
Pl an g N am
So i 18
So i 6
S oi 4
So i 16
So i 21
on M an gk
Soi 14
10
it
aw gT
Marine Dept.
2
1
ong
nt
Ch
Rajchawongse
o nM 3
N
N
Soi 8
Y Soi 15
d
w
Sa
c
ha oi T
9
So i 19
Su ap a Ratch awon g
Y Soi 17
Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19
Soi 17
it 1
A nu
f
Ma ngkon
6
Y S 10 CK S 12
Soi 8
Soi 10
Ma ha Ch ak Lu ean Rit
Sam peng Lane – Soi Wan
Soi Aner Keng
P
t ur a hah 5
Y Soi 23
S oi
r ap
i
1
Rachi ni Atsad ang
8
So i 15
So i 11
9
Bo
S
ar
r at 1
2
7
a
ha
Yaow
Bu
So
i4
at
W
nu
j
i
t
um
ng
1
e
Ch ak kr aw at
an
n
u Kr
Pha
gs Ran
C ha kp he
h kP
ip Th
6
6 oi
So
oe
7
t Yo
So
i5 o Tr
ar
m
So i 13
h at
h
Charoen Krun g
iP S ir
Ch
is
ut
i3
kW
Ti 5
rip
ai Ch ha Ma
an ak on
Ugn on
g
o Tr
Th
4
Sa
8
itri
em
Romaneenart Park
gT
Ma
p
as
3
K h lo n
a iph
gK
ip
h ire n
un
i S ir
at P hom W
Kr
So
b
k Wor ac ha
2
ng
Si Thamm athirat
Lua h at
Trok
Sida
S oi C
D
Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle
bangkok101.com
an
N
4
K
So
i2
9
MAP 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Ra
ma
14
N
So
Rama VIII Bridge
J
K
L
M
Ph
its
VII
I
et md
k
ata
iW or
ok nN noe cha Rat
iB
op
t
hit
Maha ng
N
6
Memorial Bridge
Bat
Wo rach ak
ng A
ph
im uk
Wat Wat Bophit Chakrawat Phimuk
wat kkra Cha
Son
gW at
Phi
12
ren
Soi B an
un
g 13
14
Ya ow a
ra
Anu
won g
N
Kr
mW at
t
g
Market Tot Phimai Market
Boriphat
Chai
ara
en
Ch ak kr aw at
Yao w So
aro
ho
15
aw on
7
Cha kph e Pak Khlong t
ng O
Soi Mahannop 2
Unakan Siri Phong
Chai ng
Ch
gT
Ra tch
Ya i k ko ng
apho
t Ta la lo N
Ba
Wat Liap
Kh
S
Rajinee
g lon Kh
ng
Kh
T oi
So iW at Ka nla ya
Ban Mo
Sett
Wat Kanlayannamit
Phir
Tri Ph e
n haka
am
ha
lon
Sri K
n ari Am un Ar bangkok101.com
Phahurat
Saphan Phut
Soi
Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)
N
Phra Phi Phit
Museum of Siam
10
11
Ma ha Ch an k
tu
Che
Thip Wari
t
at har Ma
Wat Arun
n pho
Kh
Bor iph at
Tha Tien
at
Royal Theatre Burapha
Wat Pho
8
9
Luan
Sam Yot
Trok Phan um
8
Wat Saket
g
Charoen Krung
i Sanam Cha
N
Soi Sirip at
Rommaninat Park
Soi Sa Song Soi Long Tha
7
Muang
Soi Siric hai 2 Soi Siric hai 1
Ch ak ra ase Ph m et
ng
i Wa
Soi Phra ya Si
Rat
Lan Luang
Phan Fah Leelard
Bumrung
Wat Suthat
Ti Thong
Wat Ratchabophit
Saranrom Park
Tha
Ratchabophit
isut
Grand Palace
mran
Giant Swing
Trok Sukha1
Trok Sukha 2
Soi Sa
6
an
Saw
ng Rak
g Tai
City Hall
uang
Fuang Nakhon
Saranrom
Khlong Lot
Chao Phraya
5
Damro
Klan
Wat Ratchanatdaram
Tanao
Buranasat
aitri
noen
Wat
Trok Ratchanatdaram Sin
Bumrung M
Kalayana M
Wat Ratchapradit
Trok Nava
Phraeng Phuthon
Wat Phra Kaew
Dam
Ph ra Po kk lao
Tha Chang
Phraeng Nara
Lak Mueang
Na Phra Lan
n kho
Na
Democracy Monument
Mahannop
hrut
K Trok
ei Na Hap Pho
Tri Phet
Wat Rakhang
Bunsiri
g Nuea
Klang
Trok hep T Sath hida ien Ram
Trok W
Soi Silipakorn
9
lang Tai
k Khro lonSgake L ot W at T
ee Rachin ng d a Ats a
Ratcha Damn oen N ai
ra Tha
t
Maharat
Wat Mahathat
Sanam Luang
o
Khlo
noen K
T
Silpokaorn University N
noen Klan
noen
Soi Dam
Na Ph
Amulet Market
Soi Dam
a Dam
an
nL
Dam
an Ratch
a Ch
Ba
Dinso
ao
Wang Lang
g
Tro k
Dinso
Kl
aos
Thammasart University Maharaj Ph r
4
on
hu
Bowonniwet ViHara
i ttr
in
Kh
ap h
So
iS am Ph long sen ra 2 Su Bang me L Wat n amp
i
Bu
P ra Ph
p sa Ka
Ch
m Ra
ok Tr
t de m So ge rid
aB
National Arts Gallery
an T ula
10
ais
Tan i
Du
N
Kh
Maha
ho
ng
Kr
kr aP
ray Ph National Museum
So
Tr ok
Wat Chana Songkhram
S
ak
o ha
Bu
3
Pra cha T
ha e Ka iC
i
ttr
am
R oi
National Theatre
t
C et md
Thonburi N11 Thonburi Railway Railway
asa tK isu
P
13
N
Phra Atith
hip
W
So
Khlong Bangkok Noi
ith
At
a hr
2
m
i
Sam
ao
s en
Kl 12
N
se g an Ka Lu g k un Lu Kr
in aP
r Ph Wat Saodung
Phra Pin Klao Bridge
1
an ulo
16
5
Rajchawongse
M AY 2 0 1 3 | 1 1 1
M Y B A N G KO K
South Side
Federico Vassallo, aka Freddy V, and Pitawat Prusakit, aka 2P, are a hip hop duo from Phuket. The ability to deliver a catchy rap and rhyme in four languages – Thai, Southern Thai, English and Italian – will distinguishes them from other rappers. Apart from being in Thaitanium, Freddy V was chosen to be Cleo Adventure Guy in 2007. And 2P was winner of the Thailand Sing Battle of the Year for two consecutive years in 2006-07.
Best place for a drink? Shades Of Retro – the ambience here’s always good. People who visit this place have a certain kind of lifestyle: artistic, outside the box and at times sophisticated, pretty indy in a way. A lot of artists are exceptionally friendly and you can even go there alone and you’ll be guaranteed to spark up a conversation with people you meet there. Best place to eat out? Smith has a meaning in the dictionary as: someone who works with metal, such as a Blacksmith. But this restaurant located on Sukumvit 49 – I’d call a foodsmith! They are the connoisseurs in culinary art. Best place to take visitors? Everyone who thinks of Bangkok before coming here, normally thinks of the traffic congested, big city urban life. So while you’re here in the big city, why not try to visiting the real Bangkok? Start with the Ratanakosin island, which was dug more than a 100 years ago, here you will get to see the old Bangkok or better known 1 1 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3
SMITH
as Pra Nakorn back in the days. You can start off at Sanam Luang where you’ll get to visit Wat Pra Keaw – the landmark of Bangkok. Best place to shop? The biggest market in South East Asia – in my opinion! – the Grandiose Jatujak Market also called JJ by local Thais. Here you will find anything and everything, from snakes (for pets, not for food!) to bags of rice (for food this time). Best place to relax? What better way to get rid of the excruciating heat than to hit the surf – yes I mean surf, right here in BKK! Try the Flow House located right opposite K Village.
Best Place for nightclubbing? Drop by Thonglor soi 10 on a Saturday night and that’s enough said, It’s the shizzle. Every club has something going on, from Demo (electronic music) to Funky Villa (live music) to Esco Bar (Hip Hop) to Muse and Nunglen. One night in Bangkok and you’ll be surely satisfied. Best place for a real Bangkok experience? Sukumvit Road is it, you can go by the BTS or on foot. Every road has a story, from shopping places in Nana to the Asoke intersection, to eateries at Sukumvit soi 38. Drop by Suan Ben Park for a stroll on the grass right next to Emporium and cross the road to Tokyo town for some Japanese cuisine. Best place for art? I know all of the tourists and local BKKers visit the Pathumwan district, better known as Siam. But while you are enjoying your shopping spree, check out Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) across MBK for some art in your blood. Get cultured! bangkok101.com