Bangkok 101 - February 2011 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

february 2011 100 baht

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metrobeat: GAI & JOEL island escape: KOH LIPE over the border: YANGON februar y 2011

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making merit: SARNELLI HOUSE

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

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Free valet Free service valet service available. available. Now open Now daily openfrom daily 5.00 fromp.m. 5.00to p.m. 1.00 toa.m. 1.00 a.m. NIUʼS ON SILOM NIUʼS ON JAZZSILOM BLUESJAZZ CLUB BLUES AND CLUB RESTAURANT AND RESTAURANT CO., LTD. CO., LTD. 661 Floor 1661 - 2 Silom Floor 1Road - 2 Silom between Road Silom between Soi 17Silom and Soi 19, 17 Silom, and 19, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok Bangrak,10500 Bangkok 10500 Tel : 02266-5333-4 Tel : 02266-5333-4 Fax : 0-2266-5335 Fax : 0-2266-5335 Email : reservation@niusonsilom.com Email : reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

publisher’s

letter

february 2011

Ushering in the Year of the Rabbit, Bangkok 101, as always, brings you an issue that will keep you surefooted as you bound around the capital. The first big happening this month – see Metrobeat, on p.13, for the full rundown – is Chinese New Year on February 3, when Thai-Chinese from across the city will flood Chinatown’s lantern-filled streets to light fire-crackers, enjoy dragon processions and lion dances, and feast at even more food stalls than then norm. We strongly recommend you join them, but only after exploring this month’s Museum Focus: the accessible and self-explanatory Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre. The other big-hitter, during which you’ll also be seeing a lot of red – roses, flushed cheeks, etc – is Valentine’s Day. We cherrypick the best of the deluge of Feb 14 dinners (p.61), and our favourite romantic dining tables (p.79). There’s also a faintly kitsch flavour to this issue, from our review of trash chic boutique hostel Baan Waree, up near Soi Ari, to our Bangkok Design chapter about the recycled furniture line of the man who set it up, Anusorn Ngernyuang. And, over on p.52, we timewarp you way, way back to the age of towering beehive hairdos, courtesy of a mini photo-retrospective of 1960s-70s Thai glamour photographer S.H. Lim. Aside from the enjoyment these posed shots of coy Siamese beauty queens, models and film stars will give you, we hope this spread helps kickstart a re-evaluation of this octogenarian’s iconic work. Elsewhere, we shoot down to Samut Songkram, with its wetlands and floating markets; and to Koh Lipe, a pinprick island in the Deep South with big ambitions (and lots of anxious islanders because of it). Stoking up even more ‘should I go or skip it?’ debate, is Yangon – Burma’s crumbling former capital, a destination that many travellers are reconsidering now that ‘The Lady’ has been released from house arrest. In this issue we also bring you two new additions: a Contests page, and, because so many of you use the city as a springboard, a Hotel Deals page listing the best bargains being offered outside of it. And, while we’re talking home improvements, have you checked out our new improved website yet? Click on to www.bangkok101.com for archives and lots of fresh new content that didn’t make the mag. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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contributors S.H. Lim

S. H. Lim, aThai photographer of Chinese blood, was born in 1930. A self-taught lensman, he took pictures for many well-known Thai publications such as Sakul Thai, Bangkok Weekly, Ploenjit, Or Sor Tor and Seansuk, from 1962 until his retirement after 1987. In 1963 he was awarded the silver and bronze medals by the New York Kodak Expo Photography Contest. Now in his eighties, he still shoots today, though not professionally.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Ver y Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Dave Stamboulis

Greek-born but Californiar aised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he wor ks for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, often via bicycle, kayak, or on foot. His travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-ar tist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentar y scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinar y fame . She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the nightout culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia. com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Deputy Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Senior Editorial Assistant Pattarasuda Prajittanond Editorial Assistant Amornsri Tresarannukul Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit, TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Nuntila Sompoo Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2010. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

Hotel

table of

contents

Partners february 2011

snapshots 10 12 13 16 17 18 19

101 picks events calendar metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: gates and grilles

sightseeing 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 40 39 42

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: charoen krung route101: sam phraeng route101: pathumwan route101: sukhumvit temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums museum focus: yaowarat chinatown heritage centre the great outdoors national parks: mae wong featured daytrip: samut songkram upcountry festivals island escape: koh lipe hotel deals over the border: yangon

arts 44 46 47 48 49 50 52

art exhibitions performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening paradise found photo feature: s.h. lim

on the cover:

Phusadee Anukkhamontri strikes

a Bond Girl pose at S.H. Limâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now defunct Smile Studio.

table of

contents

february 2011

food & drink 60 61 63 64 66 72 77 78 79 80 81 82

dining in bangkok meal deals thai sweets street eats featured restaurant thai restaurants featured tea brunching romantic tables sweet treats late dining wine

accommodation 110 boutique bangkok 111 ravishing rooms

health & wellness 112 body & beauty 114 wellness centres 115 medical tourism

110

sports

116 spectator sports 117 active sports

nightlife 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawls

shopping 102 103 104 105 106 107 108

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets

courses & services

118 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 119 making merit: sarnelli house

112

reference 120 getting around

119

THREE SIGNATURE DINING ROOMS AT INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK REDEFINE YOUR SUNDAY EPICUREAN EXPERIENCES

Sunday is the perfect day for family indulgences, and InterContinental Bangkok is the ideal setting for getting the most from your Sunday. The Bangkok’s finest trio of Sunday brunches includes: Baht 999++ per person “Mamma’s Kitchen” for home-style Italian at Grossi Trattoria & Wine BarBaht 699++ per person A free-flow drinks package of Prosecco, Italian aperitifs and local beers Baht 1,599++ per person Baht 999++ per person Champagne and Seafood Brunch at Espresso A free-flow drinks package of Champagne, wine, beer and cocktails Cantonese and Seafood specialties at Summer Palace Each dish is cooked in a way that best captures the genuine flavours of the authentic cuisine. Ensuring you enjoy a Sunday that’s deliciously indulgent.

For more information or to make a reservation, please call 0 2656 0444 email dining@ihgbangkok.com or visit www.dining-experience.com

Snapshots

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer.

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Jatujak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.107).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.119).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.78).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.30).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.84-96).

■ Pak KhlongTalad Pick up more pretty posies than you know what to do with at this 24-hour flower market (p.108).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.118).

■ Food Courts Love cheapThai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative (p.71).

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.21).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.87).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.106).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.118).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop. (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.117).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.88).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars.

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.116).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.61).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature.

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.75).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.106).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.47).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.64).

■ Lumpini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.34).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (p.98-100).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.106).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.30).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.72).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.108).

■ Thai Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.46).

snapshots

bangkok 101

Every month, win free drinks, dinners, tickets, spa treatments and much more. For further details on how to enter Bangkok 101 competitions, visit the online page at www.bangkok101.com/category/contests

contests

Crystal Spa

Perfecting the balance and harmony of your beauty, mind, and soul, Crystal Spa brings you an exquisite experience of heritage Thai spa. Through their traditional recipe of Thai herbs and a masterful touch, guests reach a place of absolute peace and elegance. Crystal Spa is located in downtown Bangkok. 1541 Sukhumvit Road, next to BTS Phrakanong station escalator, 02-382-224 or (086-609-8244 for English); www.crystalspathailand.com Three (3) readers will win: one (1) spa voucher for a ‘Pure Pleasure’ treatment worth B850. Q: Why do you deserve ‘Pure Pleasure’?

Bed Supperclub

Presenting the ‘dining in bed’ experience: a unique combination of upscale restaurant, club, art gallery, theatre and stage merged into one. Housed in a custom-built building, and set in a modern and futuristic all white environment, Bed Supperclub crosses the divide between dining and cutting edge entertainment. In Bed you take your shoes off, and you’re at home. See www.bedsupperclub.com to see how you too can get into Bed. Three (3) readers will win: dinner vouchers for two (2) people. Q: Who would you like to take to Bed? And why?

Grand Pearl Cruise

Enjoy the trip of a lifetime on this special Candlelight Dining Cruise down Bangkok’s famous Chao Phraya River. Along with a magical dinner with your partner, you’ll also have an opportunity to photograph two of the most famous sights in Thailand: the Temple of Dawn and Grand Palace. See www.grandpearlcruise.com for more information on this amazing trip. 20 readers will win: two vouchers worth B1,500 each. Q: Who will you take with you for dinner, and why?

www.bangkok101.com/category/contests bangkok 101

snapshots

Snapshots

february calendar Throughout Feb: Shawn Kelly Trio, Randy Cannon Power Trio The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8640 | www. eatdrinkandmore.com/ bangkok

Feb 3: Stanton Warriors

Feb 6: Stretch Armstrong

Feb 10: The Scorpions

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02651-3537 | www. bedsupperclub.com

Q Bar, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-252-3274 | www. qbarbangkok.com | Men B600 (2 drinks); Ladies free before midnight (2 drinks)

Impact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-833-5555| www. totalreservation.com| B1,000-B4,500

Feb 14: Ultimate Valentine Package

Feb 15: The Deftones

Feb 16: Eric Clapton

Thunderdome, Muangthong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor. com|B1,200 , B1,500

Impact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-262-3456| www. thaiticketmajor.com | B1,000-B5,500

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’ Feb 12-20: Thailand Grand Expo Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani | 02-5045050 | www.impact. co.th| Free

See Metrobeat ‘Fairs & Expos’

Feb 17: Laurent Garnier

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02651-3537 | www. bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Feb 23: Dan Phillips

Niu’s on Silom | 02-2665333 | www.niusonsilom. com|Free

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Until Feb 13: Contemporary Japanese Crafts Exhibition BACC | 02-214-6632| www.jfbkk.or.th | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

Thailand Culture Centre, Ratchadapisek | 02-262-3456|www. thaiticketmajor. com|B600-B1,600; B1,400-B3,600 for three shows

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz&Classical’ 12

Mandarin Oriental Hotel| 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok | B399,000

See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

Central World Plaza | www.lafete-bangkok. com |

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

Feb 18-Apr 10: La Fête - Fashion3

Feb 20: The Eagles

Feb 21: New Found Glory

Feb 23: Anberlin

BACC | 02-2146632|www.bacc.or.th, www.lafete-bangkok.com | Free

Impact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B2,000-B7,500

Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadapisek | 02-247-0028 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B1,200

Route 66, RCA | 02-833-5555| www. totalreservation.com | B1,000

See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

Feb 24: Kelis

Feb 25: Martin Taylor

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02651-3537 | www. bedsupperclub.com

Thailand Culture Centre, Ratchadapisek| 02-262-3456|www. thaiticketmajor. com|B600-B1,600; B1,400-B3,600 for three shows

Feb 25-Mar 1: Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

Feb 23-25: Thailand Ladies Open Golf Championship Lakewood Country Club, Bangna | 02312-6278 | www. thailadiesgolf.org |

See Metrobeat ‘Sport’ Feb 26: Grigoryan Brothers

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

Feb 10 – Apr 10: La Fête – Eric Lafforgue

Feb 27: La Fête - Hiphop Battle Patravadi Theatre, Arun Amari Road| 02-412-7287| http:// patravaditheatre.com| See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz&Classical’ Until Feb 28: HM the King’s 84th Birthday Celebrations Sala Saha Thai Samakhom, Grand Palace | 02-623-5500| B500 See Metrobeat ‘Events’ snapshots

Mar 1: Santana Impact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B1,000-B4,500 See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

See Metrobeat ‘Rock&Pop’

Impact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-504-5050 |www. bangkokgemsfair.com | B1,000

See Metrobeat ‘Fairs & Expos’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

bangkok 101

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings. By Howard Richardson

Festivals Fireworks and dragons will invade Chinatown for Chinese New Year, which welcomes The Year of the Rabbit on February 3. Yaowarat Road will be the epicentre of celebrations, with Chinese opera, fashion shows and tasty food to eat. Many restaurants and hotels will also have packages and special dinners. The monumental French cultural festival La Fête combines theatre, music, dance, art, cinema, food and fashion at various Bangkok venues from February 10 to April 10. This year, a few events will also visit other Thai cities (see regional pages for details). The festival opens with the photographic exhibition Portraits of Asia by Eric Lafforgue at CentralWorld (until April 10), with other Bangkok highlights in February being the Fashion3 exhibition at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (Feb 18-Apr 10); paintings by Stephff at the Alliance Française (26 Feb-3 Apr); and Hip-hop Battle at Patravadi Theatre (Feb 27). And on the Chulalongkorn University Campus there’s ice juggling (Feb 15-16) and a Theatre of Objects (Feb 22-23). Some events are free. Full details are at www.lafetebangkok.com. There are temptations galore for Bangkok lovers on February 14. The most extravagant we’ve found is the Ultimate Valentine Package at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (02-659-9000) priced at B399,000. Don’t despair – money can’t buy you love they say. See Meal Deals for details of this and more Valentine’s goodies.

Food & Drink Paris-based chef Christian Le Squer of the Michelin three star restaurant Ledoyen heads the kitchens for both lunch and dinner at Le Normandie, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (02-659-9000) from February 14-19. Intriguing dishes include Small-scale Fishing Sole Stewed with Green Peas). We dropped in to Gaggan on Soi Langsuan (02-6521700), the new “progressive Indian” restaurant run by former Red chef Gaggan Anand, recently. It has a laid back cream and white summer house décor, a romantic roof terrace and, while we didn’t eat that night, Gaggan’s food is artful, so it should do well. Renée Zellweger was just leaving as we arrived, which shouldn’t do any harm, either. bangkok 101

metro beat

Jazz & Classical British jazz star Martin Taylor (Feb 25) heads the line-up at the Bangkok Guitar Fiesta 2011 at the Thailand Cultural Centre from February 2527. Following nights have classical guitar from the Grigoryan Brothers (Australia, Feb 26) and flamenco by the Victor Monge Serranito Quartet (Spain, Feb 27). There are also workshops by all three acts on Feb 27, from 10am-5pm. Concert tickets (B600-B1600 or B1400-B3600 for three shows) are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Workshop tickets (B500 each or B1,200 for three) are only available with concert tickets. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra plays film music, Broadway tunes and popular classical in its Music in the Park programme from 5.30pm on Sundays February 6 and 13. Free entry. See www.bangkoksymphony.org for more information. The jazz roster at the Living Room in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-649-8353) has soulful tunes from Alice Day with the Shawn Kelly Trio, featuring David Gomes from Tuesday to Saturday and the Randy Cannon Power Trio every Monday, plus Sundays with trumpeter Steve Cannon. Dan Phillips plays original material from his three albums recorded in Chicago in a special one-off quintet concert on February 23 at Niu’s on Silom (02-2665333, reservation@niusonsilom.com). Entrance free.

Charity The Bridge of Hope Gala Dinner on February 12 at Centara Grand Hotel (02-101-1234) is a four course blow out with wine to raise funds for children living with disabilities and HIV at the Camillian Home outside Bangkok. A fashion show, a dance performance by Patravadi Theatre and an auction will round out the entertainment. Tickets are B3,000 from 085-396-9331 or camillianhome@gmail.com.

snapshots

Snapshots

Nightlife

Fairs & Expos

There’s a full programme of events this month at Bed Supperclub (02651-3537), including “shattering bass lines and massive beats” from Stanton Warriors on Feb 3; French techno from Laurent Garnier’s ‘Live Booth Sessions’, a three man live/DJ performance with Scan X and Benjamin Rippert (Feb 17); and Grammy-winner Kelis, of ‘Milkshake’ fame (Feb 24). For ticket price updates see www.bedsupperclub.com. At Q Bar (02-252-3274) on February 6 the decks are manned by Stretch Armstrong of the New York City Radio hit The Stretch and Bobbito Show. Entry is B600 for men (including two drinks). Women, you just need to turn up before midnight; no entrance fee, and you still get two free drinks. On Sat Feb 5, the Paradise Bangkok boys celebrate two years of their bimonthly Thai folk night at Sukhumvit Soi 31’s ‘36-24-36’. Tickets (B250 Baht including bottle of Tiger beer and shot of local moonshine) are available on the door. Die-hard fans should head down at 9pm, as there’ll be a free mix cd and record bag for the first 50 through it.

Theatre The Fringe Festival stages several shows at Patravadi Theatre (02412-7287, www.patravaditheatre. com) until March 17. Among the standouts for February are a rock music production of Faust by Stern Theater Produktion (Switzerland) on Feb 4, 5 and 6 (B600-800); and Space-O-Dizzy, by B-Floor (Thailand) and Wangnin Bunmei (Japan), who combine music, physical theatre and dance on Feb 18 and 19 (B400-600). Shows are in the garden theatre. Some performances also appear at the Vic Theatre Hua Hin.

Shows The Body Show: Asia Tour exhibits a complete human body preserved through plastination among its 100plus exhibits at Bangkok’s Capitol Club (02-661-1210) until April 3. They show how muscles and organs work and the effects of diseases such as cancer. Tickets are B300 from Total Reservation (www.totalreservation.com). 14

If you like ‘books, journals, postcards, maps, prints and more’ head for the Siam Society Book Fair on February 12. It runs from 10am-5pm and all proceeds go to support the Siam Society Library (02-661-6470). The Thailand Grand Expo might have been called the Furniture, Weddings, Fashion, Food, Beauty, Travel, Health, Sport and a Whole Lot More Expo. It’s at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from February 12-20. Also at Impact Arena (02-504-5050), from February 25-March 1, the Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair has traditional and urban jewellery and precious and semi-precious stones from over 1,000 global suppliers. Open daily to trade and public, tickets B100.

Events Multimedia shows continue in the Grand Palace compound, Tuesday to Sunday until Feb 28, as part of HM the King’s 84th Birthday Celebrations for 2011. Running time is 7pm8.20pm, tickets are B500.

Sport Players from around the world drive off in the Thailand Ladies Open Golf Championship from February 2325 at the Lakewood Country Club (02-312-6278) in Bangna. The annual championship is an official event on the Ladies Asian Golf Tour. See www.thailadiesgolf. org for more details.

Art The Contemporary Japanese Crafts Exhibition has 64 pieces by celebrated artists in various genres, including ceramics, glassware, lacquerware and metalwork, at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (02-214-6632) until February 13. Looking at Korean, Chinese and Western influences, the curators are interested in defining common attributes of contemporary Japanese crafts. The works are divided into themes: Ostentation, Quiet Refinement, Crispness, Fine Detail, Deformation, Flowers and Birds. As always, also check out www.bangkokartmap.com for more art events.

FAREWELL We say farewell to the popular Suan Lum Night Market, which closed last month after several years of resisting lease termination. Let’s hope there’s a replacement soon.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

Rock & Pop A big month for aged guitar bands kicks off with The Scorpions on their Get Your Stings & Blackout Farewell World Tour 2011. They play at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on February 10. Tickets are B1,000-B4,500 from Total Reservation (02-833-5555, www.totalreservation.com). The Deftones follow up at the Thunderdome Muang Thong Thani (02-504-5050) on February 15. The Grammy-winning Sacramento riff rockers are here to promote their sixth album Diamond Eyes, a Top 10 entry in the Billboard charts. Tickets cost B1,200 and B1,500 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). On February 16 at Impact Arena (02-504-5050), it’s the turn of Eric Clapton. Hugely influential from his time with John Mayall to Cream tunes like ‘Sunshine of Your Love’, and then ‘Layla’, he’ll likely also do later pop hits like ‘Cocaine’, ‘Wonderful Tonight’ and ‘Tears in Heaven’. Get tickets B1,000-B5,500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). There was a time not too long ago when every Bangkok pub band played ‘Hotel California’ and now we get the chance to hear it from the horses’ mouths as The Eagles loosen their load at Impact Arena (02504-5050) on February 20. Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets priced B2,000-B7,500. A day later, on February 21, Florida five-piece New Found Glory bring pop-punk to the Small Hall, at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028). Tickets are B1,200 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com). On February 23, the alternative rock band Anberlin fly in, also from Florida, for a one-off at Route 66 (02-203-0936). Support comes from Brand New Sunset, Abuse The Youth and Lomosonic. Tickets are B1,000 from Total Reservation (02-8335555, www.totalreservation.com). Last, but surely not least in this rock happy month, are the Latinesque rhythms of Santana on March 1, again at Impact Arena (02-504-5050). The Woodstock veterans will probably mix hits such as ‘Black Magic Woman’, from the early album Abraxas, to late 90s’ comebacks like ‘Smooth’, from Supernatural. Tickets (B1,000-B4,500) are at Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). bangkok 101

Gai & Joel

It was an exciting year-end for Gai and Joel Wilkinson, who married and then in November opened their eponymous new restaurant. The two chefs are pitching “global flavours” and do everything wherever possible in-house, including pasta, bread and ice cream making, and use flavours like lavender, liquorice and herbal teas in items like sun dried tomatoes, aromatic duck and marinated tuna. The dishes are presented with modern elegance, yet retain an earthiness that steers away from fusion affectation. A straight Mediterranean seafood casserole sits on the menu alongside Moroccan lamb rack and forest mushroom soup with truffle nutmeg foam. There’s a rustic feel to risotto with porcini and foie gras – oily, the rice with bite but not undercooked, and pieces of chestnut to add texture – and the good quality Aussie tenderloin is well seared and simply served with sautéed herbed vegetables. Downstairs is a WHERE 99/11-12 Langsuan square room with a Balcony Bldg, Soi Langsuan, small bar and large windows that look 02-684-5944 out to busy Langsuan. OPEN Tues-Sun 11am-11pm Tables are dressed PRICE $$$ in black with red and yellow accessories that set off the smart white tableware. Two more floors provide for overspill and private parties. Gai & Joel run a classy neighbourhood restaurant with an adventurous yet in many ways traditional menu. Their hands-on approach could be the clincher.

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic.The core of the new city encompasses the

Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes.These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a Deep Breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise The Guinness Book of Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

chronicle of thailand

fter winning the annual best band award at the King’s Cup for the third year running, The Impossibles proved that homegrown Thai pop bands could hold their own among the best of imported competition. ‘We had to work very hard because there were lots of good bands up against us,’ said lead guitarist Sithi Amornphant. Wining the trophy for the third time helped launch The Impossiles to new heights and the band’s earnings skyrocketed as they moved away from the small bars of Phetchaburi Road to play bigger concerts. The Impossibles formed in 1967 and were among the first Thai pop bands to cover Western songs. The band quickly build a large following, writing a host of songs for the soundtracks of popular films, such as ‘Chuen Rak’ and ‘Roeng Rotfai’ for the 1970 hit Tone. The Impossibles played from written music rather than copying songs by ear. This, they claimed, enabled them to work out far more sophisticated arrangements that their local contemporaries. After winning over Thailand, the band set their sights on the world, and in 1972 got a gig playing in Hawaii. The Impossibles played there for over a year before hitting Europe and becoming the first Thai band to record an English-language album overseas.

21 FEBRUARY 1971: ‘Impossible’ dream fulfilled Local band wins ‘best band’ title for the third year running

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

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Marble Temple

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 18

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Gates and Grills

very thai

Marking boundaries beautifully

Photos by Philip Cornwel-Smith, John Goss

survey a few years ago identified a need for Thailand to catch up with regional rivals in academic prowess. Except in one respect. Thailand boasts Southeast Asia’s best – and most expensive – school gates. The proportion of funding poured into plaques, pillars and ironwork seems to outpace that spent on teaching. Travel the country’s roads and it’s apparent this status symbol isn’t exclusive to schools, but conspicuous evidence of pride in progress, from civic compounds and factory gates to gaudy mansion railings and golf club archways, complete with clocktower. Architectural one-upmanship is nothing new. Temples (wat) have long had their porches adorned to soar gloriously above plain timber housing. Historically, temples had far grander construction materials, such as glazed roof tiles in the distinctive pattern of green and orange rectangles derived from cloth covers on the tented roof of a royal barge. With wealth generally increasing, the human impulse to upgrade has seen commoners cover everything in shiny ceramics: roof, railings, walls and, yes, gleaming, wipe-clean gateposts. Now condominiums look like 40-storey bathrooms, accessed via towering screens of gilded wrought iron, twice the height of the security guard heaving them ajar. Gates, of course, are a building’s face. And face must be built up, burnished and bowed to. Each social class has its own way of shouting about how impressive they’ve become, with the nouveau riche shouting the loudest. Hence the neo-classical embellishments found in suburbs, where developers erect vast gated housing estates, industrial parks and country clubs with towering arched sentry posts and engraved marble name placards. Amid all the glamour and exuberance lurks the prime reason for gates in the first place: security. Communal trust still keeps open the gardens of ordinary villagers, perhaps edged simply with planks or planted thickets. But those with status want walls and railings, gates and guards. Ironwork solved the resulting dilemma: how to shield what you’ve got while also showing it off.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

bangkok 101

snapshots

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orientation

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city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.26) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.22) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: Phra Athit Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street.There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

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N15: Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N9: Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

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Saphan Taksin The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N1: Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

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N6: Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N2: Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

N8: Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.28) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

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N10: Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.46) are all in the vicinity.

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Rattanakosin

route 101 Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Phraya River and man-made canals. Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin ad

then, once at the river, jump on an express boat heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style spire, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.29). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.28) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.28). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.30). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head A^_d Bec 9^ec IWf^Wd north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.32). Ph ra Su me Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably nR W oa isu d tK find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you asa tR oa d BANGLAMPHU – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the AWe IWd He WZ d oa n R fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some Ratcha a :[ceYhWYo w damno Sa Cedkc[dj en Klan g Road on kh pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back Na Luk Luang Road near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard J^_fiWcW_ views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old F>H7 D7A>ED IWe 9^_d] 9^W city walking tour closer. =_Wdj Im_d]

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Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.29) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1

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aowarat, as Chinatown is popularly known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incenseshrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main,

Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.109) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neonlit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Road will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing air-con cooled restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a well-earned rest.

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nce plied by horse carts and rickshaws, this stretch of the city’s oldest Europeanstyle paved road, built in 1860, is now inundated by buses and tuk-tuks. Yet, despite the encroachment of the modern world, the lanes off Charoen Krung remain a treasure trove of flaking colonial-style architecture, bustling street markets, multi-ethnic food, and eclectic places of worship dating back to the early 20th century, when the area was Bangkok’s main hub of foreign commerce. For this walking tour, perfect for a morning or afternoon, start by hopping off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station. From here, walk away from the river until you reach Charoen Krung, turn right and head for Wat Yannawa, with its unusual boat-shaped wiharn. The structure was built on the orders of King Rama III (1787-1851), who, as he saw steamships replacing junks, wanted his people to remember the old ships that had brought the kingdom prosperity. Back on Charoen Krung, stop to crane your neck at one of the city’s eeriest reminders of the 1997 Asian

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Financial Crisis – a half-built concrete shell towering 47 storeys high. If its rounded balconies look familiar, that’s because they closely resemble those of the nearby State Tower. Next, turn left and head back the way you came, pass underneath the Skytrain flyover and you’ve arrived in Bang Rak district (trivia: as its name means ‘village of love’, every Valentine’s Day the district office is inundated by hordes of loved-up newlyweds seeking to register their marriages). Just off the main road, Bang Rak Market’s food stalls make for a great snack stop before you venture past the aforementioned State Tower (a 68-floor neo-classical behemoth home to one of the world’s highest open-air restaurants, Sirocco) and seek out the red-brick Assumption Cathedral. Built by French missionaries, it’s one of the finest Catholic churches in Thailand. Exit back onto Soi Oriental and you’re in the old European trading quarter, with its classical Venetian-style leftovers, such as the stately East Asiatic Company building, situated right beside the Tha Oriental river pier. If it’s late sightseeing

afternoon and you’re feeling parched, brush past the doormen of the Mandarin Oriental hotel opposite and make for the all-white, colonial throwback that is the Author’s Lounge, easily the grandest afternoon tea haunt in town. After a soothing spot of cha in the same setting that and Ernest Hemingway, head back out and away from the river, turn left and towards OP Place – a white, gabled, circa 1908 department store turned pricey objet d’art centre – on your right. However, if browsing Buddhist relics of dubious origin, while a haughty hi-so madam looks you up and down, isn’t your bag, continue on and turn left. Here, at the end of a narrow lane, you’ll spot the adorably shabby Old Customs House, which used to be the gateway into Bangkok for foreign merchants long before the rot set in. Currently the Bang Rak fire station, it’s fine to have a nosey around, though a property developer’s sign by the front entrance suggests that may not be the case for much longer. Still some fuel left in your tank? From here, you could continue on to Haroon Village (a tasty little Muslim enclave) or head back onto Charoen Krung and towards the Bangkokian Museum (an early 20th century Thai home frozen in time; p32). Alternatively, catch a tuk-tuk up to Chinatown (p. 23) or River City shopping centre (p.106), where you can browse more antiques, hop on a dinner cruise or catch an express river taxi back to Saphan Taksin pier.

bangkok 101

Sam Phraeng

ust east of the Grand Palace and the stately ministry buildings that flank it sits one of the city’s first business districts, a maze of lanes lined with gracefully ageing shophouses dating back to the King Rama V era. Though Sam Phraeng’s glory days, when Thai Princes and nobility woauld shop here for luxury imported goods, are long behind it this heritage hood ticks along by selling Buddhist related items or yummy Thai snacks made to generations-old recipes. As a result, if you want to get a feel for the Bangkok of yore while stuffing your face silly, it’s a must explore. Come early, really early, and you may even get to see monks on their morning alms rounds. To get here from downtown, be adventurous and catch a spluttering Klong saeng saep canal boat to the end of the line: Saphan Phanfa Pier (see p.120). From here, one could cross the ornate bridge right beside the pier and

take a stroll down Thanon Boriphat, with its buzzing timber-merchant shophouses and pavement coated in fresh sawdust. However, those new to the Old City should begin around the corner at the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall: a multi-media museum that teaches you all about it, from its birth in 1782 to the craft-specialties of the shophouse communities that survive, with help from the Crown Property Bureau, within it. Next, turn left down Ratcha damneon Road – the city’s Champs D’Elsysee – until you reach the Democracy Monument. Built in 1939, it’s often the site of prodemocracy rallies (though somewhat ironically it was commissioned by a military dictator and it’s design inspired by Italian fascist architecture). Now head south down Thanon Dinso, a leafy lane lined with

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shophouse restaurants, including famous milk-and-toast stop Mont Nom Sod. After mopping up delicious sankaya (Thai custard) with forkfuls of hot toast here, turn right and pass Bangkok City Hall. Here, at the end of the square, you’ll spot the city’s giant swing, or Sao Ching Cha (and the tall, flame-shaped peaks of Wat Suthat, a temple commissioned by King Rama I, behind it). Though the Brahmin swinging ritual it was built for is now banned, it remains one of the city’s most iconic/sacred motifs. From here, head down Bamrung Muang road, past the shophouses selling Buddha statues, incense and other sacred paraphernalia, and turn right onto Tanao Road. Simply put, this is of our favourite parts of town. Known as Sam Phraeng, it consists of three lanes, each named after a Thai prince and lined with Sino-Portuguese style shophouses. There’s more to it than just old-world architecture though: aside from being perhaps the best preserved heritage neighbourhood in the city, this triumvirate teems with old-school Thai food. Our advice: stroll around, admire the painted shutters and ornate wooden fretwork, and, above all, follow your nose into the most mouthwatering kitchen shophouses, many of which have been open for generations. One every visiting travel journo seems to gush about is Chote Chitr on Phraeng Bhuthorn, but, be it Nattaporn’s coconut ice cream, Kor Panich’s sticky rice or Khanom Buang Mae Lamead’s tacolike crepes, you can’t really go wrong. After feasting on celestial Thai food at pauper’s prices, and admiring Phraeng Nara’s old wooden school, Talaphan Suksa, double back on to Tanao Road. Spots on it that may be of passing interest include Phraeng Sappasart’s baroque meets art deco gate, and the squat, incenseshrouded Chinese shrine Chao Pho Sua. At the end of the road there’s also the October 11th Memorial, which commemorates civilians killed during the 1973 pro-democracy rally. 25

Sightseeing

Jim Thompson’s House

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Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s abu

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex Central World was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, it has since been re-opened, while the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop-for all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 109), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

House (see p.30). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) (p.47). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

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get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, worldclass designers here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) (p.47) on the 6th floor, which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Afterwards, a jaunt among the modern sculptures, trim greenery and cooing pigeons of adjoining Benjasiri Park will remind you there’s more to life than luxury brands. Shopaholics should probe Thong Lo, staking out this unabashedly minted neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo. Once dinnertime rolls around check out ‘Japan Town’ in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, nighttime is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery – it’s all here. Perfect for a puff on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to see how the city’s young upper crust like to par-tay should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lor or Ekkamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home of the city’s nightclub grand dames such as Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.86) – meanwhile draws the international clubbers. Looking for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts? Then head on up to Long Table: a cocktail or two at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

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quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily

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Sightseeing The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | Dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some

state rooms and halls open to visitors. These include the majestic Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Wat Arun

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

sightseeing

bangkok 101

The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps it takes to get there.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On most weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one of the few temples in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English. Call ahead to book.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the wellrespected Maha Makut Buddhist University, the Wat Bowoniwet Vihara temple is important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are usually brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings, every day. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe that these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and them bringing good fortune in the future. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-2260369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also a centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The awe-inspiring 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet. For those in the know, this is a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 30

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bangkok 101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume.The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below) located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.34) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.107), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.34) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.34) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Trimurti Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

The National Museum

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 32

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Museum of Siam

sightseeing

bangkok 101

n the streets of Chinatown this month, thousands of Bangkok’s Sino-Thais will see in and celebrate the Year of the Rabbit. There’ll be dragon dances, feasting, and, perhaps most importantly, time set aside to pay respect to their ancestors, those grittily determined emigrants who left mainland China centuries ago to forge better lives. For most of them, the story of how their forefathers fled here on creaky junk ships and rose to become an affluent and fully integrated force in Thai society is likely familiar, having been drip-fed to them over the years by their elders. But for the rest of us, the Chinatown Heritage Centre is the next best thing, presenting an expurgated history of Bangkok’s Chinese community and their bustling focal point, Yaowarat. Located beneath Chinatown’s Wat Traimit, an imposing marble temple that itself is worth visiting, as it contains a solid gold Buddha weighing 5.5 tons, it begins by tackling the early history of the Chinese community in late 18th century Siam. Panels explain how Southern Chinese – Hokkien, Teochew and Hainanese mostly – arrived on junk ships during the Qing Dynasty to escape destitution and famine, and how a labour-hungry Rattanakosin Kingdom was only too happy to let them work as coolies, traders or canal diggers. Other interesting tidbits include the story of how King Rama I, on founding Modern Bangkok in 1782, moved the original Teochew

bangkok 101

museum focus

Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre community south from their spot in the Old City to Sampheng: the dirt lane that served as the proto-Chinatown (and is today known as Soi Wanit 1). Engagingly, the museum also evokes what it must have been like to arrive in this fertile yet strange new land. A mock-up of the hold of a leaking junk-ship, complete with stacked shelves and a thunder storm crashing overhead, segues into a model Sampheng market replete with narrow alleys, touting vendors and stores peddling everything from porcelain to rice gruel. Next up, the museum traces developments from the reigns of King Rama IV up to the current King. These include the advent of Western-style steamships (which undermined trade with China, but also heralded a new wave of millions of Chinese immigrants via routes from Shantou and Hainan), Sampheng’s overspill onto newly built Yaowarat Road, and successes in the rice trade and other industries. Another compelling section is the room featuring scale model of Yaowarat during its Golden Age, complete with rows of merchant buildings and an electric tram line down its centre. Little plagues beside it impart little factoids about everyday life in the early 20th century: how the sightseeing

rich used to eat at drive-in restaurants at Ratchawong intersection, for instance, and people flock here to wow at the city’s tallest structure, the Kao Chan (9 Storey) Building. There is also a room commemorating historic Sino-Thai diplomatic relations and, better still, a zone celebrating late figureheads. These pillars of the Thai-Chinese community include Phra Sri Songyot, a vegetable farmer who went on to own Sampheng Market, and Yi Guangyan, an illiterate Chinese orphan who worked his way up from coolie to business tycoon to ultimately become the leader of the ThaiChinese Chamber of Commerce. Embodying the wider, rags-toriches Sino-Thai narrative that gave rise to the Chinatown of today, their stories are among the most interesting details in this entertaining and accessible museum.

ศูนย์ประวัตศิ าสตร์เยาวราช ถ.มิตรภาพไทย-จีน

WHERE 661 Mittaphap ThaiChina Road, just off Charoenkrung Road, 02-225-9775 MRT Hualumphong OPEN Tues-Sun 8am-4:30pm PRICE B100 or B140 (including visit to see the Golden Buddha) 33

Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Royal Park

CHATUCHAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Subdistrict, Chatuchak | 02-272-4358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

national parks

Mae Wong

Whether it’s diving amid rare corals or watching the sunrise over distant Laos, there is a pay-off that comes with a visit to any of Thailand’s National Parks. Debatably the most rewarding payoff of all though is to be found deep within Mae Wong National Park – this 894 km2 forest reserve in Khampaeng Phet province is home to one of the Kingdom’s highest and most demanding treks. Rising 1,964 metres above sea level, over a hazy valley of rolling evergreen mountains, its Mokuju peak presents a challenge to even hardcore hikers. It takes roughly five days to make the 38km journey, over steep ridgelines and up precipitous summits, to reach this dome of bald rock with perhaps the best panoramic view in the entire country. To take on this trail, regarded in hiking circles as the country’s most difficult, and only open from October to February, you need permission from the Mae Wong National Park Ranger’s Office (call 05-576-6436). You are also advised to enlist porters to help you, which they can also help you with. As for what Mae Wong has to offer those who aren’t trekking mad – i.e. most of us – spread scattershot along the Klong Lan-Umpang road that winds up into its mountains are viewing points, hot springs and waterfalls. Crowd-pleasers include Kaeng Lan Nok Yong, a brook with a wide rock plateau that is good for rafting, and the Kaeng Pa Nang Koy rapids, a good spot for picnics and bathing located near park HQ. The park is also a boon for bird watchers, with rare breeds like the Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler and Burmese Yuhina regularly spotted here. State-run bungalows (B1,500-2,400 a night) that can sleep between 5-8 are available at Wong Wana, Chong Yen, and Mae Rewa. These, as is the case for all Thai National Parks, can be booked in advance by logging on to www.dnp.go.th and clicking through to Mae Wong’s dedicated accommodation reservation page. For a small fee, payable at Park HQ, you can also camp. If you’d rather sleep somewhere flash only a short drive away, try the Scenic Riverside Resort (www.scenicriversideresort.com). bangkok 101

sightseeing

GETTING THERE Mae Wong is 20km south of Khampaeng Phet’s Klong Lan. From Bangkok, take highway 1 to Nakorn Sawan then follow the highway for another 8km until you see the turn to Lad Yao. From Lad Yao take the road to Ban Khao Chon Kan, approximately 50km, and turn right at the intersection onto the road to Klong Lan. Drive approximately 43km, and on reaching Klong Lan turn left and drive the last 20km to the park. 35

Sightseeing

featured daytrip Scott Coates

Samut Songkram On the slow train from touristville While exciting and exotic, this teeming capital can quickly become overwhelming even for longtime residents. Luckily escape, the great outdoors and a slower pace of life are not as far away as you might think – Samut Songkram for example, a small province crisscrossed with clean-ish canals and featuring two of the Kingdom’s most authentic floating markets, is only 80km south of the capital.

It’s easily reached by road, but even more rewarding by train from Bangkok’s Wongwian Train Station. Opened in 1901, the line from here is one of Thailand’s oldest and runs just over 30km to the seafoodorientated town of Mahachai. Here, after strolling its fish markets, you can then cross the river by boat and jump on a second train that runs 33km further south, passing salt farms to the small city of Mae Khlong, home to one of the country’s most unique markets, Talad Rom Hoob. Sandwiched between the town’s bus and train stations, it’s a fresh market with a quirk – the train tracks serve as the walking area for customers… until of course the train comes, at which point vendors scramble to draw back their awnings and slide their goods out of the way in time. Then, once the train’s rumbled passed, they nonchalantly slide everything back again and resume business. From here, you can walk 100m to the province’s famous river, the sightseeing

Mae Khlong, hire a boat and make your way upstream to the Amphawa Resort & Spa. Check-in, enjoy a swim or massage, then head out by longtail boat just after sunset to see the enchanting spectacle that is fireflies swarming in the lampoo trees along the riverbank. These luminescent bugs only live in these particular trees, which were once abundant in the capital but have all but disappeared now, mainly due to man’s encroachment. Not so long ago canals played a much larger role in daily Thai life than bangkok 101

other sights n Church of the Virgin Mary Roughly 10km east of Tha Kha sits this Portugese church dating to 1896. Build by missionary Father Paolo Salmone, it has impressive stained glass windows, an ornate French Gothic style and is still used widely by local Catholics.

they do now. People lived along their edges, relied on them for transport, washed their dishes, clothes and selves in them. They truly were the lifeblood of communities – the highways of yesteryear. Thankfully residents at nearby Amphawa, a short hop by boat, have cleaned-up and beautified their canals so that visitors can be reminded of these bygone days. In fact, were it not for the modern Thais who flock here each weekend, this canal-side market lined with lovingly restored wooden shophouses would look much like it did a century ago. Modern and retro handmade goods are for sale, along with lots of local food prepared and sold from within the assembled long-tails. Such is Amphawa’s cultural value that it’s been recognised by UNESCO, and, though heaving on weekends, it’s a great place to soak up a market atmosphere that harks back to Old Siam. Another of the Kingdom’s few, truly authentic floating markets can also be enjoyed 15km away, at Tha Kha. Staged on weekends and full/ half-moon days, and named after a long water grass native to the area, locals here row small wooden boats from their canal-side homes bangkok 101

n Khlong Khone Mangrove Conservation Centre Since it was started in 1985 by Princess Sirindhorn, the Mae Khlong Mangrove Conservation Project has with the help of the government and private sector recovered about 8,000 acres of mangrove forest. Aside from merely filtering man’s rubbish on its way out to sea, they are an important part of Samut Songkram’s eco-system, providing both a source of medicinal herbs and protection to inland communities from the ocean during storms. Today members of the community work here planting trees, managing the eco system and taking visitors on trips. It’s located about 15km southeast of Amphawa along Route 35; to get there turn left and drive towards Ban Khlong Khon. More at www.klongkhonemangrove. com or call 086-177-7942.

to trade produce in the same way as their ancestors before them. Hiring a long-tail boat and being paddled down the surrounding canals lined with coconut plantations here is popular. And highly recommended. Drifting in the back of one of these rickety wooden boats, lush vegetation creeping in from both sides and tropical birds hooting in the distance, the capital seems a century – not just 80km – away. sightseeing

n Wat Bang Koong A temple with an interesting tale to tell: it was here that General Taksin trained the soldiers who eventually pushed the Burmese out of Thailand in 1768, one year after the fall of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya. (tel: 034-761-631). n Wat Chulamanee Once home to the wives of King Rama I and II, this temple houses the eerie remains of a famous abbot in a gorgeous teak building. It’s located about 500m from Amphawa Market, (tel: 081-847-5048). 37

Sightseeing

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

7-21 February Chinese New Year Nationwide 1-28 February Wangnamkeaw Flora Fantasia Nakornratchasima

The event has employed flower artists and landscapers from both Thailand and Taiwan to create a vertical garden ‘painting’ using 200,000 potted plants, and seeded flowers (more than 1 million seeds in total). A viewing platform has also been constructed to provide a spectacular bird’s eye view of the 20 acre site. Organised by the Horticultural Science Society of Thailand, all net proceeds donated to the Thai Red Cross Society. www.wangnamkeawflora.com

4-6 February Chiang Mai Flower Festival Chiang Mai

Celebrate the Chinese year of the Rabbit at one of the many colourful festivals held all around Thailand, including in Bangkok’s Chinatown (Yaowarat), Suphan Buri, Ayutthaya, Pattaya, Ratchaburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nakhon Sawan (Pak Nam Pho), Chiang Mai, Hat Yai and Phuket. Enjoy traditional live performances such as lion dancing, acrobatics, opera, fireworks, and tasty Chinese snacks from dawn to dusk. 02-250-5500; www.tourismthailand.org

16-22 February King Narai Festival Lop Buri

Taking place on the ruins of Phra Narai Ratchanivet Palace, located in Lop Buri, this colourful festival remembers one of the greatest kings of the legdendary Ayutthaya period. King Narai was a believer in international relations, so what better way to honour his memory than a tourist-friendly tribute? Visitors enjoy a sound and light show, floodlit temple tour, kids’ games, Thai cultural demonstrations, ancient fashions, local performances and the sale of indigenous products. 036-422-768; www.tourismthailand.org

Head down to Buak Hat Park at the southwest corner of Chiang Mai’s Old City and check out amazing floats festooned with fanciful, exuberant floral designs that would melt even the coldest Bauhaus heart. There’ll also be several floral art installations on display, and the requisite beauty contests, music and petal-festooned stuff for purchase. 053-248-604; www.tatchiangmai.org 38

sightseeing

25-26 February Phuket International Blues Rock Festival Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa, Phuket

Now into its sixth year, the Phuket boogie bonanza attracts top blues bands from around Thailand as well as Australia and the US. Performing acts include blues singer Curtis Salgado, rock legend Mason Ruffner and Cream tribute band Disraeli Gears. Other international acts include John Meyer’s Blues Express, The Prodigal Sons, The New Machine Plays Pink Floyd, and the Torgny Sandgren Blues Band from Sweden. 086-682 2639; www.phuketbluesfestival.com bangkok 101

All Month Until 15 April Exotic Couples Package Weekend Package Centara Hotels & Resorts Nova Gold Hotel

hotel deals

Centara Hotels & Resorts offers special discounted rates for couples staying for a week at selected hotels during the winter months. The resorts are located at Phuket, Samui and Trat and have been chosen for their secluded location as the perfect tranquil hideaway destination for couples. Along with daily buffet breakfast the package also includes roundtrip airport transfer, a bottle of sparkling wine in the room, a complimentary dinner per stay for two persons, and a 45 minute spa treatment for one. 02 101 1234 ext. 1; www.centarahotelsresorts.com/package/ ExoticWinterSun.asp

For just B3,990, enjoy two nights stay in a Superior Room at the renowned Nova Gold Hotel. This deluxe 4-star property features 77 comfortably designed and stylishly appointed rooms with private balconies. Located in central Pattaya, Nova Gold Hotel is just a 10 minute stroll from the beach, with several shopping malls easily accessible on foot or via a short ride on the hotel’s complimentary golf cart shuttle service. Pattaya’s famous entertainment district is also easily accessible from the hotel’s front door. 03-841-6006; www.oamhotels.com/novagold

Until 28 February Thai Residents Offer Rayavadee

Until 31 March Diving Package KC Resort & Over Water Villas

3-6 & 11-14 Feb Weekend Getaway Rachamankha

All Month Escape Dining Package Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Enjoy a Deluxe Jacuzzi Suite for the special package rate of B17,900 for a three day and two night stay. This price includes three dive courses, daily breakfast and round trip airport transfers. KC Resort & Over Water Villas has just 95 rooms, suites and unique ‘Over Water Villas’ set in a secluded estate enjoying stunning views over the cobalt blue sea and outlying islands of Koh Samui. At KC, nothing is left to chance to ensure your comfort. 077-428-088; www.kchotelsresorts.com

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Enjoy a very special offer from Rachamankha for two special weekends in Chiang Mai this February: stay four nights and pay only two. Enjoy Chinese New Year and Chiang Mai’s flower festival, the weekend of 3rd through 6th February, or celebrate Valentine’s Day at Rachamankha the weekend of 11th through 14th February (rate applicable to Superior room on stated dates only). With just 22 rooms and two suites, the hotel’s architecture pays homage to Chiang Mai’s golden age. 053-904-111; www.rachamankha.com

sightseeing

Situated at the heart of Krabi’s stunning Phranang Peninsula on theAndaman coast, Rayavadee offers guests understated luxury in lush, natural surroundings. In addition to complimentary daily breakfast and roundtrip Krabi airport transfers, enjoy a romantic dinner as well as 15% savings on activities and food and beverage. B15,000++ per night for two. Please quote special offer code BKK101 when making a reservation. 075-620-740; www.rayavadee.com

Enjoy a wonderful dining experience at two very different restaurants. The package includes daily buffet breakfast for two persons; one set dinner for two persons on an evening of your choice at Takieng Restaurant and one set dinner for two persons on an evening of your choice at Sandbox. Nestled on the white sands of Mai Khao Beach, the Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa is the ultimate retreat. 076-363-999; www.renaissancephuket.com

Sightseeing

island escape Max Crosbie-Jones

Koh Lipe Paradise in Peril

Stay or Go?

Some believe the only way to save this ecologically strained island is not to visit it at all. Others merely urge you tread lightly – pick up your rubbish and use chao lay businesses wherever possible. You decide.

uring our Christmas on Koh Lipe rumours of an impending Tsunami were circulating around the island. A Thai mor do (fortune teller) had stared into his crystal ball and seen a tidal wave rippling out across the Andaman region. Its due date: December 30. Fortunately, the psychic’s predictions were wrong, we never did need to sprint for Lipe’s signposted evacuation points (i.e. hills), but during our stay here it was hard to escape the impression that this tiny island has already been engulfed by a wave of a potentially even more destructive sort: tourism. It’s a familiar story: a Thai island’s blessing – its beauty – is also its curse. Only a few years ago, this tiny, boomerang-shaped gem near the Malay border was still a relatively unknown destination, its coralstudded seas of clearest turquoise and fine, peach-hued sand attracting mainly divers and Thai weekenders. But since then this far southern island – one of over 50 that make up Satun

Province’s Tarutao National Park – has been on a building blitz that has seen resorts and a paved Walking Street lined with restaurants, bars, shops and internet cafes (but still no ATM – bring lots of cash) spring up. Word has spread, with iphonetapping flashpackers, couples and intrepid Euro families with pushchairs now all flocking here. “Six months ago half these joints weren’t here” remarked a transient islander working in one of the rustic bars strung along Pattaya Beach, the fine sand-fringed bay on the south of the island where tourist speedboats from the mainland pier of Pak Bara, 60km east, moor. Others spoke in similarly gloomy tones about the environmental stress the island is under: the rubbish; the water shortages; the sewage. Moreover, there is a thesis sightseeing

just waiting to be written on the negative effects of the influx on the chao lay: the traditionally nomadic sea gypsies who were granted land rights here a few decades ago. However, while most old-timers you speak to are downbeat about the direction Koh Lipe is headed – “it’s over” lamented our diving instructor – you don’t find many newbies complaining. Aside from its holidaybrochure beauty, perhaps the island’s biggest tourist trump card is its size. A concrete pedestrian path (a dirt/mud track until a couple of years ago) links the three main beaches – Pattaya,

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Sunrise and Sunset. It takes roughly 15 minutes to walk from one to the other; an hour to circle the whole island. This compactness lends Lipe a much more close-nit, tropical villagey feel than you find on the big islands. As for digs, it’s wise to have an idea of which resort, or failing that beach, you’d like to stay at, as the chao lay longtail drivers who congregate at the offshore speedboat landing platform will drop you off in the clear blue shallows in front of it for a flat fee of B50. But even if you don’t the island’s pinprick proportions are ideal for window-shopping. Lined with the majority of resorts, the crescent-shaped Pattaya Beach is the busiest but suffers from a fare amount of wind-born debris and longtail noise pollution. It’s also the hub of the island’s chilled nightlife, featuring a string of bamboo bars with triangle axe cushions splayed on the sand and those ubiquitous fire-juggling shows. A 10 minute walk along Walking Street away, Sunrise Beach is longer and windier with a more tranquil vibe that makes for great snorkeling and kayaking. Walking along its curving, casuarina-backed northern crest, where the imposing island of Koh Adang looms like a protective big brother in the distance, is a must. Aside from being one of the prettiest corners of the island, this is also where the chao lay are themselves – live, lark and fish. Only a short

stroll from here (cut through the Mountain Resort for some stunning views) is the island’s quietest and least developed slice of sand: the aptly monikered Sunset Beach. It’s not hard to derive satisfaction from Lipe’s uniquely laid-back formula – the days spent sunbathing and snorkeling, the nights enjoying massages, fresh swordfish and cocktails on Walking Street. But speak to those who live and work here and they’ll tell you it’s in trouble. Should this burst your Koh Lipe bubble – or put you off coming here altogether – there are other, less stressed islands within the archipelago, namely the much bigger Adang or Tarutao (the Alcatraz of Southeast Asia during WWII). Both fall under the jurisdiction of Tarutao National Park (Lipe, though within the park’s bounds, doesn’t), and are therefore protected, in theory, from the free-for-all. State-run campsites and bungalows at them can be booked online at www.dnp.co.th or at the National Park desk at the mainland’s Pak Barra pier.

n DIVING There are numerous world-class dive sites around Lipe and the surrounding archipelago, though some are less navigable depending on the season. Marine life is abundant and the quality of coral is good, with Stonehenge’s submerged granite pinnacle an easy relaxed dive, while more advanced divers will enjoy the depths 8 Mile Rock and the possibility of an encounter with a giant but placid whale shark. Castaway Divers, which operates out of the resort (see Stay), offers a personal touch with friendly staff and small groups of divers. n SNORKELLING Long tail boats head off on short haul day trips to largely uninhabited neighbouring islands such as Koh Adang and Koh Rawi. Covered in sea-smoothed rocks, the pinprick island of Koh Hin-ngam is one of the more popular destinations, where visitors stack teetering rock towers for good luck. Those who remove the stones for keepsakes are said to be mortally cursed by the Gods of Tarutao. n Stay Castaway Beach Resort Sunrise Beach | 083-138-7472| www.castaway-resorts.com Bundhaya Resort Pattaya Beach | 074-750 248~9 | www.bundhayaresort.com n GETTING THERE Take a train or plane (www. thaiair.com, www.airasia.com) from Bangkok to the southern provincial town of Hat Yai. From there you can hire a taxi (approx B1,500) or minibus (approx B600 including ferry) to drive the hour and a half journey to Pak Bara pier. From there speedboats make the 90 minute journey to Lipe.

Sunrise Beach

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

over the border By Ou Runyi

Yangon State of the Union S

ince the release of Aung San Suu Kyi in November 2010, there has been renewed interest in visiting Yangon, the former capital of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar (sometimes also referred to as Burma). The attention is much deserved. With a wealth of religious and colonial architecture, stunning scenery, and friendly people, the city has enough to interest the most jaded of travellers. The Myanmar difference starts upon arrival. Yangon immigration consists of just two counters (there is another, but it’s reserved for consular officials), from where it’s a short walk outside and you’re in Yangon. It took 42

me no more than 20 minutes from the plane landing to being driven towards town in a car. From my vantage seat in the passenger seat, I saw signs of commerce everywhere, including advertising for watches, cosmetics and vehicles. For the most part they were in Myanmar language, though there were also bursts of restaurant signs in Japanese, Korean and Chinese – especially the latter, which seems to be represented on every street corner. While it may not be common to find Western companies doing business in Myanmar, Asian firms are here, actively engaging in trade. European and American tourists are more of a common sight around sightseeing

town, however, though not the type you might expect. Although backpackers have always blazed the way in the rest of Asia – literally establishing beachheads in places such as Krabi in Thailand, and Malaysia’s Perhentian islands – Myanmar is being opened up by the grey hair set. They travel by coach, stay in nice hotels, are not afraid to splurge on a good meal and drinks, and hire English-speaking guides. Why Myanmar? The reason why is deceptively simple: because they’ve been everywhere else. The number one attraction in town for them – and everyone else – is the awe-inspiring Shwedagon pagoda. Situated atop Singuttara Hill, it rises a further 98m above the city. Indeed, it is held in such respect that no other structure in Yangon is allowed to be higher (though a few apartment blocks come close). The religious site is best visited at dusk, when the departing sun shines reflective rays off the gold-plated exterior, before darkness falls – with spotlights illuminating the towering spire. Shwedagon’s history is such that it’d be easy to devote pages to it, but that would do an injustice to the city’s myriad attractions. Number two on the tourist must-do list is Bogyoke Aung San Market. While this is often included as a stop on the tour bus route (after an obligatory walk through the – stunning throne room aside – rather disappointing National Museum), the more scenic way to reach it is via a meandering stroll through the old colonial part of town. The best place to start is at The Strand, located on the road with which it shares its name. Fuel yourself for the walk ahead by first taking lunch in a hotel that has, since its opening in 1901, seen such famed guests as George Orwell, Rudyard Kipling and Somerset Maugham; and in more recent times, Sir Mick Jagger, and Japanese football star Hidetoshi Nakata. Then ask the concierge for one of their excellent heritage walking tour maps, and set off for the market. bangkok 101

The walk should take approximately one hour, passing such architectural gems as the General Post Office (built in 1915); High Court building (1928); and City Hall (1928). All three buildings still serve in their original function – as does Bogyoke Aung San market. Once known as Scott Market, it was renamed following independence in 1948 to honour the hero of liberation, General Aung San, the father of Aung San Suu Kyi. Here, as well as the usual tourist trinkets, you can find an entire section of Chinese jewellers, shops selling fine lacquer ware and hand-woven items, and the odd curio shop or two. If you’re into antiques, head to the second floor Heritage Gallery, where the owner has assembled a motley collection of colonial collectables and locally made brass and wooden handicraft. If you have time for a day trip, there is a wealth of attractions to see in Bago, or Pegu, which is approximately a two hour drive outside of Yangon (passing through numerous toll gates manned by teenage children). Along the way, stop and pay your respects at the solemn and immaculately kept Han Thar Wa De War Cemetery, where the graves of thousands of WWII Commonwealth soldiers are buried. From here, the road continues north – passing the turn off for the new capital of Naypyidaw – before arriving in Bago. This ancient capital city is home to the Shwemawdaw Pagoda (Great Golden God Pagoda). With a golden dome inlaid with diamonds, it is higher than Shwedagon. There is also the famous ‘Mona Lisa’ reclining Buddha at Shwethalyaung (the reference is because it is almost impossible to say if it is smiling or frowning), and the Kanbawzathadi Palace – a 1992 reconstruction of a palace built for King Bayinnaung, which burned down in 1599. However, the biggest attraction in Myanmar is the people. Make sure that no matter what you see or where you go, you engage with the bangkok 101

locals. Be it monks seeking to practice their English, a trishaw driver offering a ride up the road, students wanting to take a photo with you, or a street stall owner selling bowls of mohinga (the national dish of fish soup and rice noodles), they’ll appreciate you giving them a little of your time. And you might just learn a little too. Shwedagon

n Eat For contemporary dining, head to local favourites Le Planteur (22 Kaba Aye Road, +95(1)541997; www.leplanteur.net), L’Opera (62, D, U Tun Nyein Street, +95(1)665-516; www. operayangon.com), or The Strand Grill (The Strand, 92 Strand Road, +95(1)243-377; www.ghmhotels. com). However, for street food, head to the portion of Anwaratha Street between Sule Paya Road and Shwe Bontha Street. Here, you’ll find a fine selection of deep fried Indian treats such as samosas. Most cost less than 200 kyat. n Drink While 50th Street (9/13 50th Street, +95(1)397-060; http://50thstreetyangon.com) is popular with NGO workers, hoteliers and English teachers, The Strand Bar (The Strand hotel, 92 Strand Road, +95(1)243-377; www.ghmhotels.com) is known as the place to be on a Friday night.

Shwethalyaung ‘Mona Lisa’

n Shop While shopping opportunities are scarce beyond the usual tourist tat, the Heritage Gallery (2/F, 21 Bogyoke Aung San (Scott) Market, +95(1)256-390 ext. 739) is a great place to pick up an authentic antique, ranging from colonial-era gifts to wooden carvings. n Stay Nowhere else in Yangon has the illustrious history of The Strand (92 Strand Road, +95(1)243-377; www.ghmhotels.com), where you can eat, drink and sleep in the same rooms that once housed famous writers, artists and statesmen. Despite its name, the Savoy (129, Dhammazedi Road, +95(1)526-289; www. savoy-myanmar.com) was only founded in 1995. However, it does offer a comfortable stay in a good location with views of Shwedagon.

The Strand

sightseeing

Arts

art exhibitions

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

Until Feb 12 Slow Down Chulalongkorn University Art Centre, Centre of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | 02-218-2965 | Mon-Fri 9am7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | www.car.chula.ac.th/art/ | BTS Siam Artist Noraset Vaisayakul, a new media lecturer at Naresuan University in Phitsanulok, presents a new video work using symbolism associated with loneliness and the abandonment of the ‘self ’. Relating to Buddhist notions of nothingness and the significance of the individual, the artist believes the more he discovers about existence, the more hopeless he feels.

Until Feb 20 Live, Love & Let Die Ardel’s Third Place Gallery,The Third Place,Thonglor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092, 084-772-2887, 086-890-2762 | 10am–8:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com I BTS Thonglor For her third solo exhibition in Thailand, ceramic artist Nino Sarabutra continues with her playful and sensual approach to clay, creating functional and decorative objects that she presents as an installation. She has crafted illuminated skulls surrounded by delicate butterflies, motifs on life and death recurrent in Damien Hirst’s art.

Until Feb 28 Painted,Tainted, Sainted Eat Me, Soi Phi Phat 2, Convent Rd | 02-238-0931 | Daily 3pm-1am | www. hgallerybkk.com l BTS Sala Daeng The performer-prankster, the clown archetype, provides a metaphoric entry point for Bangkok based American photographer Cameron Wolf ’s latest photographic series. Veiled in various guises and ritualised actions, he symbolically appropriates the clown image to express the duality of someone accepted yet marginal, exposed yet hidden. Within this context, his fixation is directed toward the personas of drag queen and performers.

Until Feb 28 Endless Desire – Hu! Hu! Hu! Gossip, Silom Galleria 3F, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19 | 02-637-7878 | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm I BTS Surasak Preyawit Nilachulaka’s provocative paintings are both fascinated and concerned by the behavioural lifestyle changes affecting young Thai adults. A member of the popular rock band Instinct, Preyawit’s pop-influenced paintings and sculptures explore notions of superficial appearance and inner persona; manipulation, deceit, power and control.

Until Mar 8 Disc is Dead, Disco is Alive! WTF Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 I 02-662-6246 I Wed – Sun 3-10pm I www. wtfbangkok.com I BTS Thonglor Chiang Mai based Sutthirat Supaparinya is a rising media artist known for her video installations and interactive situational art. Incorporating reflective and transparent surfaces with pixellated distortions from advertising banners, her recent works have become increasingly politically and socially motivated as she examines the invasive saturation of media in the digital age. 44

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IS IT ART? FIND OUT WITH BAM! www.bangkokartmap.com

bangkok 101

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Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Aksra Theatre

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular 600-capacity theatre located by the Victory Monument, with an interior lined with wood carvings, experience hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. This is family entertainment of the refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to watch contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but also an entire arts complex, comprising of classes, residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions: the shows are world-class because of it.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, the performance here is hailed as 'a showcase of Thailand'. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 local performers journey whirlwindlike through seven centuries of storied Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests arrive to experience this spectacle nightly. In shor t, it's a spectacular showcase of eye-popping poignancy.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.87).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

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TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon always fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain. Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre is currently nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting a space of 3,000sqm for displaying exhibitions. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

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Arts APEX SCALA (retro 1960s) Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์สกาลา สยามสแควร์

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, state-of-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.47), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180.The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www. Please movieseer.com. stand while the king's anthem is Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew played in respect to Thailand’s Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok beloved visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited monarch.

to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s bordertransgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org.

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ถ. พระราม 1

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า KRUNGSRI IMAX THEATER (world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 Major Cineplex Ratchayothin 1839 Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Mochit, MRT Paholyothin, then taxi | 02-511-3311 เมเจอร์รช ั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน Major Cineplex Sukhumvit 1221/39 sukhumvit Rd., North Klongtan | BTS Ekkamai | 02-3814855 เมเจอร์สข ุ มุ วิท

ใกล้สถานีรถไฟฟ้าบีทเี อสเอกมัย

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท

bangkok 101

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stores offer the latest in print, new and used. BANGKOK BOY Chai Pinit | B525 | Maverick House In this misery memoir, Chai charts his downward spiral from placid Isaan village boy to amoral thug, male prostitute, alcoholic, gambler and allround bad Buddhist. It’s “the story of a stolen childhood,” says the melodramatic cover, implying that his nefarious ways all stem from the sexual advances made towards him at 15 by a teacher. We’d posit, however, that Chai is far more perpetrator than victim – beating his girlfriend when drunk is his main schtick, for instance – and really only gets his karmic comeuppance. Sensationalist sell aside, this is a raw, taut and ultimately redemptive tale that explodes the myth that all redlight workers are abject souls bereft of choices. Chai has more than most and yet still he chooses to do anything – and we mean anything – for a quick buck and leg-up on Thailand’s facegaining consumerist ladder. Bangkok Badboy would have been more apt.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

THE OUTSIDER'S GUIDE TO THAILAND Oliver Benjamin | B 595 | Bangkok Books | 248pp Much of the local expat-penned prose is tripe – although lowbrow readers into cack-handed smut-fiction will find themselves in hog heaven. But for a sampler of decent writing, try this anthology of irreverent articles by a Chiang Mai-based journalist "who is still extremely confused about the actual inner workings of Thai and all other cultures." The essays range from humorous topics like "Seven Elevenize Me: killing me with convenience" (whereby the author dines exclusively from the ubiquitous franchise for an entire week) to more serious subjects, such as tourists pitching in en masse to rebuild post-tsunami Koh Phi Phi. Benjamim boasts a nifty turn-of-phrase, a witty way with headlines and captions, as well as eloquent powers of analysis. A pleasant surprise.

reading & screening Buddhist Murals of Northeast Thailand Bonnie Pacala Brereton & Somray Yencheuy | Mekong Press | 84pp | B695 Books on Thai murals have tended to focus on those commissioned by the elite, namely those in Bangkok’s temples. Until now, that is.This glossy volume casts its gaze on the more democratic, funloving and pastoral murals that encircle the sim, or ordination halls, of temples up in the northeast, Isaan. Honing in on temples in Khon Kaen, Kalasin and Roi Et, it’s an accessible primer to this unsung sub-school of Thai painting, with chapters on everything from the Buddhist and folk tales told, to how to ‘read’ them. The authors also draw intriguing links between them and the pha pha wet, or horizontal cloths,paraded at Isaan festivals. Full-colour close-ups of often bawdy scenes, which were painted using natural dyestuffs on a pale cream background, and in places look like Southeast Asia’s answer to the Anglo-Saxon’s Bayeux Tapestry, appear throughout.

Last Life in the Universe 2003, Pen-Ek Ratanaruang, VCD B119, DVD B199 Last Life unfurls its characters’ inner lives the way cigarette smoke reveals the secret shape of breathing – through a slow-burning, bitter beauty. Featuring a Death and the Maiden pairing – a compulsively neat, suicidal Japanese librarian and an explosively messy, live-wire Thai woman – Last Life flirts with familiar conventions: the screwball-comedy opposites-attract couple, the violent poetry of yakuza-flick shootouts, rescue fantasies, cultural malapropisms. But with the aid of famed cinematographer Christopher Doyle, (2046, Hero), Japanese altindie star Asano Tadanobu, sad-eyed Sinitta Boonyasak, and a rotting Eden of a country house where his duo shack up after a traumatic accident, Ratanaruang creates a tenderly caustic look at an unlikely relationship, in which a suicide note – “This is bliss” – can read like a bittersweet valentine. ar ts

Arts

paradise found

Each month the crate-digging DJ duo behind the leftfield luk-thung, molam, and funk night 'Paradise Bangkok', Chris Menist and Maft Sai, delve into the more obscure corners of the Kingdom’s music.Their record label 'ZudRangMa' showcases the best of Thai music both old and new, and has a new shop on Thong Lor. For more information, check out: www.zudrangmarecords.com

Waipod Petchsuphan Anyone who’s been to ‘Paradise Bangkok’ over the past two years, will have heard, consciously or otherwise, the refrain of what I would consider one of our anthems: ‘Ding Ding Dong’ by Waipod Petchsuphan. Driving horns and a tough backbeat underpin a humorous vocal exploring the highs and lows of sexual pursuits, and all this, from a singer more often associated with loftier subject matter. Waipod will always be a special singer for me personally as he was my entry point into Thai music. His measured, seemingly effortless vocal appeared broader and more controlled than the excesses of some of his ‘luk thung’ contemporaries. And there was a soulfulness and depth that you could equate with a seasoned Gospel performer. On my first digging foray into Chinatown, I came across a street lined with women wrapping amplifier coils, and deduced that maybe some record shops might be nearby. Breezing into a hi-fi store, I brandished my portable turntable to explain what I was after. I also gave the owner a piece of paper that bore Waipod’s name written in Thai script, 50

given to me by another vinyl seller. Waipod’s mentor and ‘lae’ pioneer Surprised, he read it out to his fellow Porn Pirom. It was an odd event, workers. One responded, and then held in the middle of the afternoon they all burst out laughing. Curious and poorly attended at an annex for an explanation, I asked what was building at the Thai Cultural Centre. so funny. ‘Oh sorry, sorry. When I tell Although Waipod still performs my friend you’re looking for records regularly, and is in good voice, by Waipod, he ask if you are going to contemporaries such as Man City become a monk!’ he said, grinning. Lion who was also there to pay Having made no future plans his respects, half paralysed and to enter the monastery, I asked for singing from his wheel chair, could a further explanation. Waipod, as it not really overcome the toll the turned out, made his name as a singer passage of time had had on his voice. This is perhaps what spurs of ‘lae’ music, the long, meditative us on to collect these vocal style normally sung often forgotten discs, at ceremonies prior to such as another Waipod monkhood. This at least anthem ‘Sumneang Yu explained the man’s quip. Paradise Nai’ (Where Is Your It also gave a possible Bangkok’s 2nd Accent?) where he neatly reason for the ethereal anniversary describes an afternoon’s nature of the singer's vocal shindig on Sat stroll around the record delivery. That he could Feb 5. See p.14. stores on Saphan Lek, also record a song like which you can still make ‘Ding Ding Dong’, with its today. It underlines wry profanity, exemplifies how important it is one of Thailand’s to document and many dichotomies. celebrate this golden Myself and Maft Sai era of Thai music whilst finally got to meet this the performers are still musical icon, at an event around. marking the death of

Don’t Miss

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PhotoFeature

Apasara Hongsakul

S.H. Lim

Celebrating Thailand’s forgotten photography master An encounter with S. H. Lim (Vivat Pitayaviriyakul) and his fashion and glamour photography is akin to a trip in a Time Machine. Back to the glory days and uncomplicated appeal of Thai cinema and beauty contests post-1957. One of only a few to capture the zeitgeist, this self-taught Thai-Chinese photographer’s creatively choreographed shots didn’t just reflect the mood of the age – they helped shape it, appearing as magazine covers, calendars and movie posters. Today, now approaching 81 years old, Mr Lim’s memories of his years spent shooting the era’s vivacious, beautiful, elegant and dynamically sexy models and movie stars are hazy, but his images as enjoyable as ever. This month Bangkok 101 proudly presents a selection of his most iconic; from Phusadee Anukkhamontri posing as an alluring but duplicitous Thai Bond girl in his former studio on Silom Road (see this month’s front cover), to free-spirited star Orasa Israngkura na Ayathaya, leaping exuberantly over coconut fronds in her bikini, and the spread you see here: Apasara Hongsakul, Thailand’s first Miss Universe, stepping out of an aeroplane fresh from her triumph in Miami, an angelic visitation to mortal earthlings. From 5 February – 27 March these, and many more S.H. Lim classics, will hang at Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Soi Pan, Silom Road | 02-234-6700 | www.kathmandu-bkk.com). Rather than being a half ironic celebration of his work’s kitsch or camp qualities, the hope is that this exhibition will prompt a genuine reappraisal of this photographer who has hitherto been neglected by official Thai photographic history. Head down there and lend your support.

PhotoFeature

Orasa Issarangkoon

Priya Rungruang

PhotoFeature

Apasara Hongsakul

Darunee Chuensakul

PhotoFeature

Kwanjai Sartrak

Sangduen Manwongsa

Food&Drink

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

Flow

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.81). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 60

food & drink

bangkok 101

All Month Love is in the Air Crepes & Co.

Enjoy a true taste of romance as one of Bangkok's favourite restaurants, Crepes & Co, serves up its most popular Mediterranean specials, from tasty appetisers to mouthwatering desserts. Selections from the a la carte menu include paella and tapas from Spain, couscous and tajines from Morocco, or moussaka and mezze from Greece, all accompanied by a range of thoughtfully selected promotional wines. Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990 Soi 8, Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor) 02-726-9398 www.crepes.co.th

14 February Valentine’s Day Strawberries and Spankings Bed Supperclub

The good folks at Bed Supperclub have decided a seductively romantic Valentine’s dinner with ‘Strawberries and Spankings’ is what you need to treat your loved one this year! Ouch! That hurts. Head down to Bed and get spanked this Valentine’s Day. Chef Dan’s aphrodisiac enhanced five course set menu is set at a smashing price of just B3,000 per couple. 02-651-3537, info@bedsupperclub. com; www.bedsupperclub.com

bangkok 101

14 February Tempting Valentine Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa

As Cupid draws back his arrow for Valentine’s Day on February 14, romantics across the City of Angels can look forward to expressing their love to someone special in truly unique ways at Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa. Overlooking the mesmerising River of Kings, the city’s only ‘true paradise resort’ is offering couples a choice of five distinctive restaurants, each presenting a special Valentine menu, accompanied by ambient entertainment and luxuriously intimate gifts. 02-476-0022; www.marriottdining.com

14 February Moonlight, Music, Love and Romance Millennium Hilton

At buffet restaurant Flow, a classical string quartet serenades you as you enjoy a grand buffet with international delicacies, barbeque seafood on the terrace, chocolate fondue and much more, all specially created for the evening. You’ll be charmed by a stem of rose and a box of chocolate heart shape, including access to Bangkok’s first cheese room. This veritable feast of specialties is yours to enjoy for just B2,011 nett per person. 02-442-2000

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meal deals 14 February Feel the Love Novotel Siam Square

Let your true desire free this Valentine’s Day at The Square Restaurant of Novotel Bangkok Siam Square. Enjoy a sumptuous interactive buffet of international cuisine highlighting delectable desserts, which include a deluxe chocolate fountain, strawberry creations and many more. Valentine’s Day Buffet Dinner only B990++ per person, plus welcome love shot. 02-209-8888

14 February Romantic Moments Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Surprise your sweetheart with ‘Ti Amo’, a memorable dining experience at Rossini’s in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. The enchanting evening includes an exquisite four-course set menu for two, with a half bottle of champagne, rose and a box of chocolates. The price is B5,400 for two. With direct access to BTS Asok station, this renowned luxury hotel is located in the heart of Bangkok's business and entertainment district. 02-649-8368

Food&Drink

meal deals

6 February Special Chinese New Year Brunch The Sukhothai Bangkok

Summer Palace Cantonese restaurant is the stately home of Chinese New Year festivities and fine dining from 1 to 8 February. Among the many dishes offered will be raw salmon yee sang with condiment and deep-fried crispy Chinese New Year cake with taro. Set menus for gatherings of 10 persons include festive gifts such as mandarin oranges, lucky ang pao, Chinese candy and glutinous fish cake, set menus start from B9,888++. 02-656-0444; bangkok.intercontinental.com

Executive Chef Nam Nguyen presents a special Chinese New Year brunch (B2,500++ each) to welcome in the year of the rabbit. Hop right over to sample dishes such as duck foie gras terrine, chilled seafood, dim sum, abalone, snow peas, Cantonese suckling pig, red cupcakes with ‘gold coins’, and much more. Don’t miss the opening Lion Dance, and be sure to finish your meal by making a special wish with a fortune cookie. Here's to good luck for the year ahead. Available 12pm to 3pm. 02-344-8888; www.sukhothai.com

14-19 February Dominique Gauthier Ma Maison Swissotel Nai Lert Park

All Month basil is Back for Lunch Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

All Month Best Value Buffet Café G Holiday Inn Bangkok

All Month Sunday Brunch Grand Millennium Sukhumvit

1-8 February Chinese New Year InterContinental Bangkok

Now open for lunchtime dining, basil invites you to rediscover the sensational flavors of regional dishes. basil’s chefs have created special set menus that include delights such as snow fish with sweet chilli sauce, green curry with fresh prawns and coconut palm hearts, and sweet temptations such as chilled water chestnut dumplings in coconut milk with jackfruit. Prices for lunch at basil start from B550++. 02-649-8366; www.eatdrinkandmore.com/bangkok

Enjoy lunch or dinner at the Holiday Inn Bangkok's Café G for the bargain price of B229++ per person, inclusive of free-flow soft drinks. For lunch (11.30am-2.30pm), Thai favourites such as tom yam goong, som tam, lab gai and guay tiew are served alongside international standards. At dinner (5.30pm-9pm), enjoy local and global dishes, including a selection from the Congee Corner as well as a wide range of delicious desserts. 02-656-1555; www.holidayinn.com

food & drink

Celebrate your Valentine’s Day with a romantic candle light dinner with your loved one and a specially created menu prepared by Chef Dominique Gauthier. For dinner, a special fivecourse menu will be prepared for couples at Ma Maison, an original fine dining restaurant with gorgeous views of tropical plants and botanical garden. Chef Dominique’s cuisine is praised for its use of natural products of the finest quality, pursuit of simplicity, and respect for the best of classic cuisine. 02-253-0123; www.swissotel.com

Enjoy a sumptuous international buffet spread, including Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Spanish and Western flavours, at this buffet that occupies the entire second floor of the hotel. The multinational chef team brings you global favourites such as Alaska king crab, Peking duck, seafood paella, and many more. The price starts at B1,600 nett, with options including free flow wines and cocktails. 02-204-4000; www.millenniumhotels.com

bangkok 101

thai sweets Longan Not to be mistaken for the similarly named longong fruit, the longan, known as lam-yai in Thai and often referred to as the 'Dragon Eye', is one of the most popular fruits in the country. Small and round, they have a thin, crisp brown skin and a translucent sweet flesh that many liken to lychees in taste, and grapes in texture. Widely found in Northern Thailand, they can be enjoyed fresh, dried, served over ice as a dessert, or even as a refreshing juice. In some parts of Southeast Asia, its seed is pressed against snake bites with the belief that they absorb venom, while the dried fruit has been used to cure insomnia. But try not to get too carried away eating them, because excessive consumption of this It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those delicious fruit is said to be a surefire fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright path to sore throats and mouth bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having ulcers. You've been warned... unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack Try also: Coconut (ma-Praow), or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street guava (farang), banana (kluay), carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these papaya (malakor), mangosteen vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. (mong-koot), durian (tu-rian), mango All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are (ma muang), r ambutan (ngoh), better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat. lychee (lyn-chee)

Thai Fruit (polamai)

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

street eats

ealikte

Nym

Street Food Hotspots

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango.

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Squid on a Stick I often go for walks around the Old City at dusk. Passing the Giant Swing, I like to slip inside Wat Suthat and listen to the monks chanting – it helps me to feel completely at peace as night falls over Bangkok. Leaving the compound, I then stroll towards Bangkok City Hall on Dinsor Road, looking for a rewarding way to usher in the evening. At this point, I pay no attention to where I’m walking; my eyes are cast firmly ahead, seeking out the small warm light given off by light bulbs, and wafts of smoke lingering in the air. I find what I’m looking for by the side of City Hall. Here, at a small street side stall, squid on sticks, or pla muek ping, are grilled over burning charcoal.There are always a few hungry passers-by at this particular stand, and for good reason. Choosing the specific part of the pla muek ping you’d like grilled is completely up to you.The various parts, including tentacles and roe, give different texture and flavour; I usually opt for a mixed skewer. However, you should be less concerned with the squid quality, and more with the sauce.At this particular stall, the seafood lime-based sauce is blended with chilli, garlic and coriander leaves. Either dipping your squid in the sauce, or letting it soak, once you bite through the crispy outside, you have the satisfaction that comes with eating the perfect bite. It really does make for the perfect nighttime snack. Pla Muek Ping City Hall is on Dinsor Road between Wat Suthat and Democracy Monument.The best time to visit is after sunset.

Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the famous stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls.

food & drink

bangkok 101

river cruises

Grand Pearl

River Dining Cruises

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 per person, depending on how well you dine, and last an average of three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner, though this should be confirmed ahead of time. It’s also wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

bangkok 101

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Food&Drink

restaurants

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restaurant

TENDERLOINS

WHERE 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-4529; www.tenderloins33.com BTS Phrom Phong OPEN Daily 10am-1am. PRICE $$

Surrounded by garishly decorated bars Monet, Goya, Van Gogh and Renoir, Tenderloins stands out from its neighbours for more than just its name. Located halfway up the ‘Soi of Dead Artists’, as the lane is colloquially known, this modern sports bar and grill offers a welcome slice of normalcy on a stretch of road better known for its ladies of the night. Tenderloins is generally busy with a mixed expatriate crowd of sports lovers, including couples, families with older kids, and middle-aged men – who regularly come to watch live rugby, as well as other major sporting events, including the recent England vs. Australia Ashes action (unlucky, Aussies). While it’s therefore well known as a place to catch the big match, the fact that it serves up a fantastic Sunday Brunch deal is a well kept secret. Every week, they offer an all-you-can-eat BBQ buffet for just B500 – B1,000 if you want to indulge in the all-you-candrink option (local beer, spirits, cocktails and house wine). For the bargain price, you get free range of the salad bar, assorted cold cuts, and mixed items such as chicken wings, roast beef and mussels. Then you can choose as much as you want from the cooked menu, which includes Aussie meat pies, sausages, pizza, kebabs and Wagyu rump steak. While the quality never hits gourmet standards (it is an all-you-can-eat buffet, after all), it’s nevertheless a decent spread, and easily worth the price you’re paying. If you’re not into sports (God forbid), then make sure you sit at one of the window-side high tables that face onto Soi 33. From your vantage point, you can watch as the unwanted detritus of Saturday night is washed away, and the artists outside prepare to paint anew.

เทนเดอร์ลอยน์ส สุขุมวิท 33

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bangkok 101

Your

to Bangkok www.bangkok101.com

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

restaurants

featured

restaurant

SUGAR LUST CAFÉ & BISTRO Injecting mellow townhouse vibes to one of Sukhumvit’s buzziest dining sois is Sugar Lust. Featuring cozy couches and mophaired teens playing video games inside, and a cute garden strewn with furniture, beanbags, hammocks and Britpop-influenced murals outside, this white 1960s house won’t be stealing the thunder from the nearby, crowd-pulling K Village lifestyle complex anytime soon. But that’s its charm – a retro-inflected, sabai sabai place where you can lounge about with nerdy creatives, as opposed to wannabe hisos, is exactly what this soi needed. As something of a rarity in these parts, Sugar Lust has already won over a band of regulars, or sugarlusters, with Friday nights, when indie bands strum away inside, being particularly popular. This is a tried and tested formula that works a treat over on Soi Ari, the indefatigably hip northern suburb where you normally find these sorts of retro townhouse restaurant setups. In fact, Sugarlust fits the Ari archetype WHERE 59/27 Sukhumvit Soi 26, to the letter, 0840-114-115, www.sugarlustcafe.com featuring BTS Phrom Phong laidback and OPEN Mon-Fri 11am-midnight, baby-faced Sat-Sun 11-1am waitstaff, a PRICE $ 68

food & drink

hush-hush celeb factor (one of the co-owners is the singer from Thai indie band Flure) and, most importantly, a menu of Thai, Thai-inspired and international dishes. These include sides like the ‘UFO French fries with Sugar Lust Dips’ (i.e. curly fries) and yum wun sen (spicy glassnoodle seafood salad), to mains like grilled lemongrass chicken with rice, and tuna and olive pasta. All of them are served in decent sizes and are tasty, if a little uninspired. Our hit of the night though were in fact the kub klaem, or beer snacks; namely the nua det deow: we couldn’t keep our mitts off this plate of hot, juicy, succulent sundried beef morsels studded with crispy, deep-fried lime leaves. Our advice? Go easy on the mains, which are filling if forgettable, leaving plenty of room for the sweet baked stuff. As the name implies, these are the forte here, ‘sugar lust’ being exactly the feeling that strikes when you amble up to the glass counter filled with apple crumble, cheesecakes and other indulgent homemade slices. Just as extensive is the drinks menu, which ranges from coffees to cocktails. Boozehounds take note: the latter are served strong and something of a steal between 6-9pm, when they’re all only B100. Whisper it, but this might just become our new Friday night warm-up haunt.

ซูการ์ ลัสต์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 26

bangkok 101

featured

CALA LA PASTA restaurant From the same folks behind Pizzeria Bella Napoli on Soi 31, comes a sister outlet devoted to pasta. Known for his insistence on authenticity, owner/operator Claudio Conversi has crafted a pleasing menu of favourite recipes, served up in a warm, welcoming venue. With a vaguely cinematic theme – the walls are lined with classic movie posters – the colour scheme is orange and cream, with a softly lit (at night, at least) al fresco area out front. It’s not trying to overly impress, instead seeking to provide a comfortable atmosphere with a few talking points. Indeed, with a name that refers to the process of dropping pasta into water, it’s clear that this is a place where the food does the talking. The menu lists a number of favourites, but on your first visit we suggest you go with the chef ’s recommendation – the daily specials are conveniently written on a blackboard in the main dining room. On the night we visited, we went with starters of mix salumi (a selection of cold cuts, including Parma ham and salami, B320) and the caprese salad (buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil, B320). Classic dishes made with quality ingredients, they WHERE Thong Lor Soi 21, 02-185-2199 BTS Thong Lor OPEN Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-midnight; Sun 11.30am-midnight. PRICE $$ bangkok 101

summed up the restaurant’s deceptively simple approach. These were then followed by a truly delicious risotto (B300) and a perfectly al dente seafood tagliatelle (B290). The one thing you can always guarantee with traditional Italian cooking is a filling meal (after all, m a m a wo u l d never let you go hung r y), and so proved to be the case here. Ve r g i n g on the pleasant side of fullness, we let the chef talk us into trying a slice each of his homemade apple and lemon pies (both B150), promising to return for his tiramisu at a later date. Like every other dish on the night, the pastry and fillings were excellent. And with that it was time to cap the night with – what else – cappuccino and espresso. In sum, Cala La Pasta serves up great-tasting, home-style Italian food, made by an Italian chef with Italian ingredients. Add into the mix reasonable prices that don’t break the bank, and what’s not to like?

คาลา ลา พาสต้า ทองหล่อ 21

food & drink

Food&Drink

restaurants

featured

restaurant

HIMALI CHA CHA In a city bloated with half decent restaurants, sometimes it takes a backstory to set you apart. Fortunately for this Indian old-timer with four branches scattered around the city, they have a good one: its Bangladeshi-Indian founder, Mr. Cha Cha, spent the early 1940s, those turbulent years before India gained independence from British rule, cooking for the Mountbattens. Now, cooking for the last Viceroy of India is impressive in-itself – Dickie Mountbatten was arguably the most powerful man on the planet at the time – but Mr. Cha Cha’s services to the subcontinent’s rich and powerful didn’t end there. After independence in 1947, he then cooked for Nehru, India’s first PM, before spending the next couple of decades doing the same for Indian ambassadors on their postings abroad. Only after settling in Laos, marrying a Northeastern girl, opening a restaurant in its capital Vientiane, and fleeing from the Pathet Lao communist’s in 1977 did he eventually set up his dream curryhouse here in Bangkok. Fast forward 34 years and Himali Cha Cha’s original branch, over on Charoen Krung Road, is still here, even though its founder isn’t. Now under the care of his son Kovit, today it must rank as one of the city’s hardiest restaurants, WHERE Sukhumvit Soi 31, having not 02-259-6677, www.himalichacha.com only outlived OPEN daily 11am-3.30pm, a number of 6pm-10.30pm boom and bust PRICE $$ cycles, but also 70

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managed to expand into three new locations – Silom’s Soi Convent, Sukhumvit’s Soi Nana and Soi 31. While you have to doff your cap to this sprawling backstory, the obvious question is: does Himali Cha Cha live up to it? In a nutshell, yes. Set back from Sukhumvit Soi 31, at the end of a leafy driveway, their biggest branch is a charming 1960s Thai townhouse with a warm woody, Moghul themed look. As for the food, having not dined here before it’s hard to judge just how much it’s stayed faithful to its creator, but there’s certainly a confidence to the cooking. The menu features curryhouse staples aplenty, from thick dahl to refreshing lassis and ramsmali desserts, as well as Mr Cha Cha’s battalion of North Indian signatures. Starters are solid. Lightly-fried onion bajis; crispy-on-theoutside, soft-on-the-inside mutton shami kebab cutlets, etc, all served with fresh, tangy dips and chutneys. Slowcooked curries, meanwhile, like the Bengali fish and Mutton Chutni Walla, are of the thick and strongly spiced but not too oily sort. And the soft, piping hot nan bread (that decent Indian yardstick) makes the perfect vehicle for scooping them up with. Even better still was the tandoori chicken – predictably tender, unusually moist. Presented home-made style with little on-the-plate flair, nor airs and graces, Himali Cha Cha’s traditional fare is clearly intended to please the stomach and not the eyes. In a city where too many restaurants serve food that does the exact opposite, that’s something to be grateful for.

หิมาลี ชา ช่า สุขุมวิท 31

bangkok 101

Food courts Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. Check out these shopping mall favourites CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on around B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court, this plush, glass-walled offers up top-notch international fare. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am-9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jam-packed with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish). Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am-10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing. Central chid lom: One of the most upscale food courts in the city (a concierge is on hand to direct you to your table), Food Loft (7/F, 10am-10pm) draws in tired shoppers and famished foodies alike. The cuisine on offer includes Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Indian, Chinese, Korean, as well as a decent line in French-inspired sandwiches.

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food & drink

Food&Drink Another: the massaman curry.Though not served with beef (in respect of the Hindu temple), we’re besotted: its sweet, rich and creamy, bristling with hunks of tender chicken and potato. They also do a very good khao kluk kapi, stir-fried rice with shrimp paste without congealing the rice, though it’s only served on Thursdays. We could go on, but you get the gist: there ain’t a bad dish in here.

restaurants

ครัวอร่อยอร่อย ถ.ปั้น สีลม (ตรงข้ามวัดแขก)

Kinnaree Gourmet Thai

Thai KINNAREE GOURMET THAI (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 8 | BTS Nana | 02-2560328 | www.kinnareegourmet.com | 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight | $$ ‘You don’t need to budget to enjoy fantastic food,’ as the gastronomic cliché goes. This is especially true of Thai and, more to the point, the lovingly prepared cuisine at Kinnaree. Set back in a cosy converted house, expect delectable modern twists on classic staples. The young banana flower salad with shredded chicken, shrimp and chilli paste in an intricate edible marvel; the lightly grilled duck’s breast in tamarind sauce is succulently pink and tender. Named after the mythological hybrid said to symbolise feminine grace, this endearingly musty restaurant makes for an intimate evening out – right down to the ridiculously long cocktail straws.

กินรี กูร์เม่ไทย สุขุมวิท ซ.8

Krua Aroy Aroy (map B4) Pan Rd., Silom (opp. Indian Temple) | BTS Surasak | 02-635-2365 | 8am – 8:30pm (close every 2nd & 4th Sunday) | $ If the wafts of incense and religious chants drifting in from the adjacent Hindu temple suggest Khrua Aroi Aroi is more special than your average shophouse kitchen, it is the food that confirms it. This slim holein-the-wall filled with nothing more than plastic tables, ladies in aprons and one dozing cat, serves some of the most scintillating Thai fastfood we know of, from nam prik pla dtoo to a benchmark-setting khao soy. Best of all are its long-stewed regional curries, especially when spooned over Khrua Aroi Aroi’s silky kanom jeen (rice noodles). Recommendations include the dark, strongly spiced curry nam prik made from golden beans and prawns and served with banana leaf buds, raw morning glory stems. food & drink

ROSABIENG (map D3) 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02253-5868 | 11am-11pm | $ checked The shorts-clad tourists sitting in cheapish chairs might make you look for another restaurant. Ignore that first impression, however, and you’ll be rewarded with some of the best Thai food around Nana. A Bangkok classic, the simple converted house and its large patio is home to expat and Thai diners in search for straightforward, outstanding local cuisine and a jovial atmosphere. Even the poppy live band playing nightly surprises with their quality. It’ll take some time to browse the humongous menu which seems to list every Thai dish ever invented. Luckily, the choice – and the pace at which the dishes arrive at your table – doesn’t affect the quality. Even Thai food critics tuck into the low-cost classics steeped in authenticity on days off. Kids will love the koi pond and the ubiquitous train toys, while total Thai food beginners shouldn’t be ashamed to request the picture menu and learn two words: “mai phet!: (not spicy).

รถเสบียง สุขุมวิท ซ.11

Krua Aroy Aroy

bangkok 101

International Triplets (MAP E4) Fl 6 Panjit Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (btw Sois 5 and 7) | 02-712-8066 | BTS Thong Lo | Wed-Sun 6pm-10pm | $$ The triplets of the restaurant name are owners Nuch and Nate and their friendly poodle Barbie, who likes to greet diners as they enter. Nuch and Nate, whose other business is a marketing company, have a plan: “to promote a local food movement in Thailand”. Therefore they use over 90% local produce at this cheap and cheerful Euro-style bistro. Dishes include lamb stew, using meat from Saraburi, steak lollipops – cubes of tenderloin from Nakhon Pathom, served on sticks with caramel butter sauce – and strawberry pork, with fruit from Chiang Mai. Also, Triplets has only Thai wine. There’s a pleasing informality to this long narrow room – like a student hangout – that creates a homey vibe, with an open kitchen that casts a warm glow over candlelit tables. It’s far more comfortable than

bangkok 101

the icy aircon in many restaurants. Generally, wise chefs and diners alike welcome local ingredients, and particularly in a climate of global warming. But Thailand’s expansion into products with an nternational appeal is very recent, and in terms of quality it’s still advisable, for now at least, to forego beef and lamb for tastier pork and chicken.

ทริปเปล็ทส์ ปานจิตต์ ทาวเวอร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 55

The Water Library (MAP C3) Unit 217, Floor 2, Chamchuri Square, Payathai Rd | 02-160-5188 | MRT Sam Yan | www.mywaterlibrary.com | Daily 11am-10pm |$$$ Walking through this mall of garish fast food shops, it’s something of a shock to come across The Water Library. Its grand domed ceiling of wooden spokes evokes a medieval cathedral; its towering display of glass bottles a Victorian apothecary. Singaporean chef Haikal Johari brings the chemistry of Japanese ingredients

food & drink

and modern cooking methods like sous vide to bear on an interesting contemporary international menu. Choose which price range you want, and Haikal will create a multi course dinner on the spot using the seasonal produce he has in stock. It could be pate de foie gras with pear panacotta topped with crumblings of five spice biscuit and smoked with jasmine tea; or a beautifully cooked Chilean seabass in mushroom-bacon ragout with a heady ponzu-white truffle emulsion. There are some very heavy hitting wines here, in the Petrus/Opus 1 class, and at the bottom end five each of white and red house wines from B980 a bottle, B250 a glass. But purists might find the list a little unbalanced, high in Californian, and overwhelmingly favouring Cabernets, Merlots and Chardonnays. However – the theme here being bottled water – there are samples from artesian wells all over the world.

เดอะ วอเตอร์ไลบรารี่ จามจุรสี แควร์

Food&Drink

IL Tartufo

Italy Il TartufO (MAP E4) 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-259-3569 OPEN Tue-Sun 11am-11pm PRICE $$$ Il Tartufo (The Truffle) is one of the newer entries to the ranks of Italiantrattoria-down a-leafy-lane. It’s a tried and trusted Bangkok formula. As hinted by its name, the specialty here is seasonal truffles. It’s a spacious town house with a traditional layout: a large room divided by mock louvre doors, with a small bar at one end, and a little wooden staircase leading to a semiprivate area bookable free of charge for small parties.The homey cooking fits the setting. Truffle-themedoptions include tagliatelle with shavings of fresh truffle and chargrilled beef tenderloin with white truffle sauce, but there are also plenty of options if you need a change, including the usual pastas and pizzas. A modest all-Italian wine list starts at B750 a bottle, running to a handful of Barolos around the B12,000 mark, plus six whites and reds by the glass. They also offer bocce (petanque) out the back, and retail wines and olive oils, and truffles at cost price if you want to take some home. Lots of parking.

German Bei Otto (map D4) Sukumvit Soi 20 | BTS Asok | MRT Sukumvit | 02-260089 | www.beiotto. com | 11am-midnight | $$ Proprietor and German governmentcertified master chef Otto Duffner inaugurated his eponymous Bangkok restaurant/bakery back in 1984. Over the years he’s seen competitors come and go, leaving Bei Otto as the only worthwhile dedicated German restaurant in town. Meanwhile his original Schwarzwaldstube has added a butchery and superb deli, and a slightly more formal European restaurant to its stout menu. It’s cosily attired, with a forest of mock wooden panelling, slatted dividers and logbeamed ceilings. The menu’s stocked with hearty Bavarian fare, and Otto’s in-house specialties – his assorted baked goods, imported meats and German wheat beer on tap – set him apart.The mixed platters, each offering various cuts, sausage selections and side dishes, make waistlineexpanding good value for groups.

เควิลเลจ สุขุมวิท 26

บาย อ็อตโต้ สุขุมวิท ซ. 20

อิลทาร์ทูโฟ สุขุมวิท 51

Japanese Yamagishi Tsukemen (map D4) 2nd Floor K-Village Sukhumvit 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-661-2931 | 11:30am-10pm | $ Much like any of the other dozen restaurants lining Bangkok’s newest community mall, K-Village, which has rapidly ascended towards the top of the city’s ladder of places to be seen, Yamagishi Tsukemen seems to feature an ever-present queue of growling stomachs waiting for a table. The restaurant is blanketed by pillows of steam emitted from the kitchen where the staff bang out bowl after bowl of Tsukemen. One of the many subgroups on Japan’s vast noodle family tree, Tsukemen consists of a cold dish of ramen egg noodles and a hot bowl of flavourful sweet broth topped with tender slices of pork and a delicious soft-boiled “onsen” egg. As is the case with many shops in Japan that choose to focus on one specialty, the menu scores poorly on the amount of choices available, though the few choices on offer rate quite highly on taste. Aside from Tsukumen, you can opt for a version with hot noodles, a rice bowl with the tender pork, gyoza dumplings and a surprisingly refreshing take on fried chicken karaage which is served with a zesty dressing.

Bei Otto

food & drink

bangkok 101

Tapas Café

Spanish Tapas Café (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-2947 | www.tapasiarestaurants. com | 11am til late | cash only | $ Set in a cute loft space with rotating art exhibitions, Tapas Café fills that desire for drinks and a chatty nosh with flair.The charming executive chef rotates his menu every few days, but here are a few plates we hope will stay – a gorgeously moist “tortilla,” the classic potato-and-onion omelette; ham croquetas so delicate it’s a miracle they stay together ; savoury little slices of Angus beef; and tender octopus that will banish the memory of nightmare rubber tentacles. Delicious sangria will get you drunk in minutes – luckily, the food isn’t so salty, often the case with traditional tapas, that you wind up quaffing too much. Keep an eye out for paella and more fusion-y innovations.

ทาปาส คาเฟ่ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

Indian PUNJABI BY NATURE (map B4) 839, soi 17 silom road, near Holiday Inn Bangkok | BTS Surasak | 02-6353467 | 11am 11pm | $$ Indian food might sit pretty low in the city’s culinary pecking order, but Bangkok is nonetheless host to a clutch of tasty offerings. Overlooking Silom Road, Punjabi by Nature is one of them, featuring fun wall murals of technicolour Punjabi life and the flavours we curryheads crave: from spot-on poppadoms with funky chutneys, golgappas and other snacky starters to rich meat, fish and veggie curries like the saag gosht, a pungent blend of chunky lamb hunks with pureed spinach, tomatoes, ginger and cumin seeds. The presentation and service, like the interior, is no match for the city’s upscale Indians, but there's nothing much wrong with the kitchen here. Learn from our mistake and don’t order more than you need. Two mains, bowl of fluffy pilau and one of their big, to-die-for nan breads should easily stuff two hungry souls.

ปันจาบ บาย เนเจอร์ ถ.สีลม ใกล้ รร. ฮอลิเดย์อินน์

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

La Cuchara

South American LA CUCHARA (map C4) 2/38 Soi Sribumphen (Soi Sathorn 1)| BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-6799910 |11:30am – midnight | $$ We wouldn’t normally recommend you venture down a dead-end alley lined with dirty laundry, but this tiny three-table joint is so different that we’ll make an exception. Run by a plucky Thai lady, La Cuchara stands out, not just for its hearty Columbian food but also its backstreet-in-Bogotá aesthetic (blue walls and red tables, candlelight, potted plants and cheeky Fernando Botero paintings), soft Latin jazz and “toxic” cocktails. It’s worth

coming just to try dishes you won’t find elsewhere: tapas-y starters like Ceviche de Camaron (a tangy-spicy tomato salad studded with chilli, feta and coriander), mains like the La Cuchara Pork (a paprika and potato pork stew served with tasty cassava root, salsa and fried banana sides). But, as unusual and carb-filling as these are, it’s the cocktails that put the Latino oomph in your evening. A few of their hot-blooded pisco-sours or caipirinhas and you’ll be shaking your hips like Shakira in the nearest club afterwards. That, or keeled over on a sofa in their upstairs chill-out room – order with care!

ลาคูชาร่า ซ.ศรีบำเพ็ญ (สาธร ซ.1)

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LEBANESE/MIDDLE EASTERN Beirut (map C3) B1, Ploenchit Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 2 BTS Phloen Chit or Nana | 02-6567377 | daily 10am-10pm | $ Located near the enclave of tasty Middle Eastern restaurants on Sukhumvit 3/1, Beirut provides a bit more comfort, quiet, and care in the kitchen than its tasty but shishasmoky brethren do. The mall atmosphere is not much to look at, but you’ll be too busy scarfing down lemon-fresh salads, creamy hummus and beautifully marinated chicken kebabs to even glance around. Beirut does excellent set menus of its small plates – come with a gang of friends and fight over every forkful. Fried eggplant is simple and fantastic, served up without a trace of oil and bitterness, and Beirut’s caulifl ower got us – confirmed haters of that pasty-white vegetable – to chase every last morsel. Pita is not up to this standard, but serviceable – more room in your stomach for the good stuff. Finish up with strong mint tea, perfume-y sweet custards and rice puddings. Friendly, unpretentious and perfect for that falafel fix.

เบรุท สุขุมวิท ซอย 2

bangkok 101

High Teas

tea

featured

MAISON CHIN

WHERE Ground Floor, Bandara Suites Silom, 75/1 Saladaeng Soi 1, Silom, 02-636-1281, www.maisonchin.com OPEN 2pm-5pm Friday – Saturday PRICE B190 net bangkok 101

Though usually the backdrop for celebrity masterchef Ken Hom’s modern Asian food, on Friday and Saturday afternoons the Bandara Suite’s Maison Chin transforms into an intimate and low-key tea slurping spot. Set in the Chinese-themed restaurant’s bright, glassed-in conservatory overlooking Saladaeng Soi 1, they don’t offer so much a traditional high-tea as a European-style dessert buffet with a pot of Twinings tea thrown into the bargain. And it is a bargain. For B190 you can attack a dessert station groaning with cakes, pastries and tarts by the hotel’s pastry chef – moist slices of banana cake; smooth, creamy vanilla bean panacottas; expertly scorched crème brulees, to name but a few. Other you shouldn’t miss on your repeat rounds – and the mini-sizes of everything mean you can make several – include various ilks of fruity or chocalate tarts and a wonderfully sloppy, velvety crepe cake. Everything is fresh and not too sweet – a policy best embodied by the scones, which come with just the right hint of saltiness as well as strawberry jam and clotted cream. High-tea purists may bemoan the lack of loose-leaf teas and savoury options (bar a flavourful spinach quiche), but for the rest of us this is a sweet spot for afternoon tea in the Silom area. Free wi-fi and unobtrusive service round off its revitalising charms.

รร.บัญดารา สวีท สีลม

food & drink

Food&Drink

brunching

runching is big business in Bangkok, with both family-friendly and adults-only offerings to choose from. However, no matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the city serves up something to suit all tastes. Here we sample some of the best.

THE WESTIN featured brunch GRANDE SUKHUMVIT

WHERE The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Road, 02-207-8000; westin.com/bangkok. BTS Asok. PRICE B1,590 net per person.

In many countries around the world, the Westin is synonymous with brunch, a symbolic and luxuriant association that the Westin Grande Sukhumvit hopes to recreate in Bangkok. Located just steps away from the Asok BTS station, the Westin recently launched ‘Sunday Lunch’, a collective feast that incorporates the best of three restaurants. First there’s Kisso, their popular Japanese eatery. Here, they serve all the sushi, sashimi, tempura and teppanyaki you can carry, while experienced chefs are on hand to slice and dice everything you desire, from the freshest of fish, to grilled scallops, beef and shrimp. Although the Sunday Lunch only launched at the end of October, Kisso tends to fill up quickly, with Thais drawn by the value and quantity available. However, don’t fill up too much, as a whole range of international cuisine and stellar desserts await your attention downstairs. Here you find Seasonal Tastes – the Westin’s all-day restaurant – and Zest Bar & Terrace, a cocktail bar by night that serves as the dessert area for the duration of the Sunday Lunch. Seasonal Tastes occupies a bright, airy space with light wooden floors and tall windows with blinds to shield diners from the hot sun. Cold cuts, oysters, pastries and fruit are presented on top of a centrally located S-shaped island, while hot kitchens serving a mix of Western and Eastern dishes – from slow roast Australian beef to wood-fired pizza to Peking duck – line the edges of the room. As one would expect in a premium property, the cuisine is excellent, with a selection to cater to most palates. Service is similarly firstrate, with plates replaced before you’ve barely had a chance to finish the previous one. There is also a selection of wines available if you fancy a tipple to go with your continual gorging. The best, as they say, is saved for last. On our visit, my better half had already moved onto dessert while I was still working my way through a generous slice of delicious layered salmon with eggs and vegetables, wrapped in pastry with a cream sauce. She returned from a foray to the far side of the room with a plate full of homemade truffles, chocolate espumas in a cone, and an array of fruit that had been thrust into the chocolate fountain. It was almost too much to stomach. Almost. By the time 3pm came around (the official end time), it was all we could do to stand up. In sum, while we would have liked to have seen an all-you-can-drink champagne option, this was still a very fine feed in a five-star setting.

โรงแรม เวสทิน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ถ.สุขุมวิท

food & drink

bangkok 101

ove is in the air this month, and so the sound of nail biting as men all over the city fret about where to take their loved one for Valentine’s Day. Here is our pick of the best romantic tables in town – a selection that traverses the price spectrum, from super swank to cheap and cheerful.To avoid a night on the couch we strongly advise you book in advance.

romantic tables

The Deck Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong , Maharat Rd | 0 2 - 2 21- 915 8 | M o n -T h u 8 a m 1 0 p m ( 11 p m Fr i -Sun ) | w w w. arunresidence.

com/dining.htm | $$ Get your reservations in early for the best seats at this riverside restaurant at tached to the Arun Residence boutique hotel. While the modern Thai and French fare is decent, the jawdropping views of the Chao Phraya and Wat Arun steal the show.

Le Normandie The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02659-9000 | www. mandarinoriental. com | 6pm-11pm | $$$$ Some think it stiff – a jacket and tie is required – but The Oriental’s legendar y French restaurant will certainly impress your date with its flawless service and commanding river views. Feast on some of Asia’s best French cuisine – and ask your dining partner to look away once you start fishing for your AmEx.

| $$$$ Fifty five floors high, bang in the centre of the downtown shopping district, the views at this swank al fresco rooftop restaurant will take her breath away. The food uses quality imported products like whole roast Boston lobster, and the innovative wine cellar packs 250 plus wines.

In Love K rungkasem Rd. (near Thewet Pier) | 02-281-2900 | 11am – 1am | $$ Per fect for Don Juans on a budget, this open-air riverside joint is a bit rough around the edges, but really comes into its own come dusk. Candlelit tables, tasty (and affordable) Thai food and one smouldering view – a 180 degree panorama of the King Rama VIII suspension bridge.

M a n o h r a River Cruise Bangkok Marriott Resor t & Spa | 0 2 - 476 - 0 0 2 2 Ext. 1416 | www. m a r r i o t t d i n i n g. com| 7pm-10pm | $$$ Picture it: gliding along the Chao Phraya aboard a magnificent antique rice barge with your beloved. To top it all off, for this night only their set Thai menu will include two glasses of Champagne, a rose and chocolate box (see Meal Deals).

Sra Bua Siam Kempinsk i Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd | 02-162-9000 | Mon- Fr i 6pm11pm |$$$$ One of last year’s talking point restaurants is a dramatic teak box in the new Siam Kempinski. Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin’s Thai food is thrilling culinar y theatre (think red curr y icecream with lychee foam), so even if your romantic patter dries up you’ll still have something to talk about.

In The Mood For Love 9/9 Suk humvit Soi 36, 02- 6615076 | 5pm-late | $$-$$$ Inspired by Hong Kong auteur Wong Kar Wai’s sultr y ar thouse hit, this atmospheric Japanese diner has a more romantic feel than most restaurants around town, with halfmoon booths of flowery banquettes, low-slung fans and bamboo birdcages dangling from the corrugated roof.

Le Café Siam 4 Soi Sriak sorn, off Chua Pleng Rd | 02-671-0030 | www.lecafesiam. com | 6pm-11pm | $$$ This 1920s Thai house, with its muted or ange glow and garden of palm trees on a quiet back lane, charms you to a different place and time. Chef Paul Quarchioni’s food is classic French with a few Euro twists served on a daily changing menu.

Vertigo B a nya n Tr e e Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02- 679-1200 | 5am - midnig ht | $$$$ Vertigo is one of Bangkok ’s most dr amatic – and romantic – dinner stages, soaring 200m above it all. The views always make excellent conversation topics. And the Pacific Rim cuisine appears just as refined as that ambassador’s wife’s gown the next table over.

bangkok 101

food & drink

Red Sky Centara Grand Hotel, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam or Chit Lom | 02-100- 6101 | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-11:30pm (bar shuts at 1am)

Food&Drink

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

Big Knit Café

At Big Knit, it doesn’t matter if you’re young or old, male or female, housewife or hipster – this is a place where anyone can meet to talk, hang out, and – if you know how to – knit. Located inside the Natural Park apartment complex on bustling Soi Sukhumvit 49, this is Bangkok’s very first knitting café, serving up homemade dishes such as pasta, rice, sandwiches, ice-cream and cake, while customers concentrate on their intricate stitches. The people behind all this threaded genius are cousins Khun Nice and Khun Pho. The pair split duties equally at Big Knit. While Nice looks after the knitting and customers, Pho is busy in the kitchen, making delicious desserts such as Oreo Banana Cake (fresh banana bread topped with caramel sauce and crunchy Oreo), and Baby Choc (chocolate fudge brownie); ranging in price from B80-B100. A selection of teas are available if things get a little sweet. WHERE Soi 88, Sukhumvit 49, The duo were inspired to open Big Knit after Klongton Nua, Wattana, reading about young people flocking to new 02-260-5050; www.bigknit49.com knitting cafes in Europe and North America, BTS Phrom Phong, Thong Lo part of a worldwide trend that is re-embracing Open Daily 9am-9pm the once disdained pastime, and celebrating PRICE $$ the sense of community these shops provide. If you’re not a knitter but would like to know how, details of training workshops are posted in the café. Indeed, the owner has gone out of her way to ensure knitters are comfortable; including soft seats you can sit on for hours, and imported yarn available for purchase (an entire wall is covered with the latter). In sum, it all makes for one of the most charming places we’ve had the pleasure to review; and we’re not just spinning a yarn when we say that.

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food & drink

bangkok 101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The popular nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either.

■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare.

Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you.

■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you find yourself around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawls p.100) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Enjoy garden dining amidst colonial architecture, from a menu that serves a selection of Thai and Western dishes. Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www.tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion dishes like curried crab crêpes.

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Though it may not be as smooth as silk, the Thai and International food is fine.

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drink

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drink

wine

ENOTECA ITALIANA OK, so it’s not not a wine bar per se, but the wall of vino at this intimate little “wine library” is one of the Bangkok’s best-kept secrets. It’s name harking back to ancient Rome, the Italian fatherson team at Enoteca’s helm got their start in Thailand producing homemade gelato and later expanded their horizons to food and wine. Master Sommelier Nicola will happily to advise on both old standards and recent wine acquisition. He hand picks each of the 200+ labels here (nearly all of which are Italian). Ask about discounts on cash-and-carry bottles if you taste something you want to take home. Italians rarely drink without eating, so ask Chef Stefano Grano to slice you up a platter of imported Italian cold cuts and cheeses to nibble on with your WHERE 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 wine. And if you’re staying for dinner, (Map D3-4), 02-258-4386 don’t miss their pastas – the curiously BTS Phrom Phong squared-shaped spaghetti alla chitarra OPEN daily 5pm – midnight is a Mediterranean masterpiece. And www.enotecabangkok.com save room, of course, for the ice cream. One caveat: although centrallylocated off Sukhumvit Road, actually finding your way here through the residential warren of narrow streets is part of the adventure. Best to print out the map from their website. With just nine tables, reservation are highly advised. Inquiries about periodic special tasting wine dinners.

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food & drink

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Discover more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

bangkok 101

food & drink

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Soi Cowboy (between sois 21 & 23). And voguish but amount of options – so much more than just the affordable hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. whisky-sippin’ urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot A night out here can easily have you flitting between sois of Thong Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.99) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.98), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.88. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.88), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.86) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is – Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 84

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

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TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 Q Bar

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am With its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

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nightlife

bangkok 101

Calypso

Demo

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

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808 (map D3) RCA, Block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Praram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on which superstar is gracing the decks that night.

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GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | 6pm-2am This boutique club, bar and lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For more details on events and regular updates, check Glow’s very cool and up-to-date website.

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MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

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CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Panorama

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

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Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

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Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

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bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

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MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Amorosa

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor Distil

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanthemed Amorosa. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or instead come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is also just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day spent temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant, The Deck, and six lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

nightlife

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Bamboo Chic

at the arresting lime-florescentZuk barBar– innovative cocktails such as the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance upon arrival… Unfortunately, Patpong, the notorious neon sleazepit and tourist night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic, which is Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

CM2

nightlife

CM2

bangkok 101

Club 87 plus

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

THE GLAZ BAR (map C3) G/F, Plaza Athénée Bangkok, 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu Road), Lumpini | 02-650-8800; www. royalmeridienbangkok.com/ theglazbar | Daily 10am-2am Accessible from both the street and lobby, The Glaz Bar features a nightly mixture of hotel guests and locals in the know, attracted by its distinctive decor, nightly live entertainment and attentive service. With an intimate chic and cosmopolitan atmosphere, patrons flock here to enjoy a range of creative cocktails (including favourites Thai Tapas and Molecular Mixology), local and international beers, and a tantalising menu that includes tapas, salads, sandwiches and desserts. For armchair voyeurs, the outdoor terrace offers luxurious views of vibrant Wireless (Witthayu) Road, while you shouldn’t miss their popular ‘Cocktails and Cones’ networking events, which take place once a month (contact the bar for details). There’s also a live band that performs daily from 9pm to 1am.

รร. พลาซ่า แอนธินี ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 1980s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. Meanwhile, DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-oneget-one-free Happy Hour (6pm9.30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin, while there is also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

The Glaz Bar

nightlife

Nightlife

bars Fat Gut’z 264, Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) | 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am | $$$ | Food delivery available Don’t let the fish ‘n’ chips fool you; Fat Gut’z is not about the food. Already a place to see and be seen, this sleek saloon is packed nightly with a crowd of beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the already legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named – and here’s the rub – after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular order is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two). Made from an old family recipe, it comes served in a wooden tub, turning a takeaway staple into finger food. Tucking in as we listened to the blues band play on the tiny stage, and observed the hi-so crowd sipping politely on their aquatic-inspired cocktails, it was obvious that this bar is an unusual, albeit successful blend of ingredients.

แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55

Fat Gut’z

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm1am (gallery open from 3pm) “It’s just like a bar in BarcelonaBerlin-Brooklyn” (take your pick), say punters when they enter WTF. The tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo, feta salad and pork fried-rice steamed in lotus leaf. It’s more intimate and much, much smaller, but WTF definitely owes a DNA strand or two to Raindogs, the creative social club that shutdown earlier this year. And that’s a good thing. Just like it, there are occasional live gigs, edgy art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and, on busy nights, a mix of local indie hipsters, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with.

ดับเบิลยูทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

nightlife

Hyde & Seek (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www.hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ Two bright lights of Thailand’s F&B scene opened this stylish downtown gastro bar: a dead-ringer for one of those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is fuelled by Chanond Purananda, a partner in Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and the beginnings of a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas. In sum, Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the still huge market for high quality drinks and food at middle prices. Because of this, it gets very busy with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.

แอทธินีเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

bangkok 101

The Iron Fairies

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

THE IRON FAIRIES (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiosity-cum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the castiron spiral staircase. The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the range of burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm1am, closed on the second and fourth Sundays of every month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

nightlife

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02- 286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of Catalan-inspired tapas, you’re definitely in the wrong place. Yet, because or despite of this, it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a wbenevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society 94

Bamboo Bar

ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok institution is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their nightlife

current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must, even if just the once. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am Located not far from the Chao Phraya, this New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the

bangkok 101

backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม

nightlife

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

Brown Sugar

Nightlife

live music

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad 96

for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซีเอโซนดี

Nomads 106-108 Silom Soi 4, 02-266-3552 | Tue-Sun 5pm-late A live music bar located just a few minutes from Sala Daeng Skytrain could be just what the doctor ordered. Nomads is a beer and boogie joint with a friendly owner and nightly bands including long-time favourites the Soi Dog Blues Band and the Fugitives, a sax and trumpet-led five piece doing soul, funk and jazz. Sundays is a band jam, with everyone welcome, while the Tuesday open mike is a more acoustic opportunity to try out your new songs. Not the easiest place to find, the small square room is located right at the end of Soi 4. Beers start at B90, cocktails from B100 and there’s a snacky menu of dishes like wings, spaghetti and spicy Thai salads.

โนแมด สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Overtone

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage (here the choice of name becomes a little clearer) it’s a pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Parking Toys has a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can variously catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. With no nearby BTS or MRT station, it’s a hike, but well worth the effort. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s.

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

bangkok 101

Parking Toys

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. In sum, it offers great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations are a must for large groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3 nightlife

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything Van Halen and Motorhead covers.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai & Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a mixed international and Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], Funky Villa [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage, as is the unique Iron Fairies [4]. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [5], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [6] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [7] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [8] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two 5 BTS Thong Lor that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [9] and Soi 55 (Thong lor) scruffy little bar Happy 6 4 Monday [10]. Pretty young 1 2 things bounce along to Thai 3 tunes in the former; while 7 9 media types (mostly aged 25 Soi 63 (Ekkamai) plus) hobnob while enjoying 8 10 low-key DJ sessions (May T BTS Ekkamai from Modern Dog etc). nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy.

5 RCA road

1 2

Q Bar

Sukhumvit Soi 11

Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers 1 at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad 4 Bed Supperclub bigger than a 2 broom cupboard. Nest [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option offering 5 laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think 3 Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax [5] lures in the city’s good, the bad, the beautiful and, SUKHUMVIT road unfortunately, the ugly till the wee hours. bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

pub crawls

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Each month Bangkok 101 gives you the low-down on one of the top taverns around town.

featured

pub

THE PICKLED LIVER

In a city of hidden gems this pub is definitely a rough diamond. Situated on a dead-end soi past the famous Cheap Charlie’s it isn’t one for passing trade. But, it’s definitely worth hunting out because it’s a classic football boozer. A shrine to the beautiful game, or soccer, as some philistines know it, the sign outside features legendary player George Best and the walls and ceilings are covered with football memorabilia. The décor is simple and Where Soi 11, unfussy with a large bar running Sukhumvit Rd (map down one side, a high central D3) BTS Nana 02-254table and red velvet seats flanking 3484 OPEN 4pm-2am the other wood panelled wall. The low ceilings and small windows lend the place a cosy, perpetual twilight air making it an ideal escape from the bustle of Bangkok. Not surprisingly, it’s the range of live sports available on the big screen TV that attracts an unpretentious crowd of fans who have made it their home. But with friendly staff, a pool table in a rear alcove, daily happy hour from 2-7pm, draught Guinness and Kilkenny and an extensive food menu, including award winning curries from the Rang Mahal restaurant, it’s not just the sport that make this place unique.

เดอะพิคเลดลิเวอร์ นานา

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Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from the Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ n Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar P&L Club Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

BTS Nana

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map, and prepare for sheer retail overload.

Unique Boutique

Books &Collectibles

Where 3rd Floor, The Silom Galleria, 919/9 Silom Road, Bangrak, 089-1888-300 or 02-630-2890, bangkokcollectibles.com BTS Surasak OPEN Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm 102

The shopping in Bangkok is second to none – unless you’re after antiques that is. Not only does the collector have to be wary of reproductions, there’s also the fact that due to the tropical climate and most Thais’ lack of sentimentality there just aren’t that many legit pieces left. But don’t give up altogether, as there are a few honest, well-stocked places that collectors should seek out – not least this humble treasure trove of old Siamese books and bric-a-brac run by German expat Manuel Finsterer. Located at the back of Silom Galleria mall’s third floor, it’s his labour of love – a repository for the bits and pieces he’s salvaged on his weekly trips round local markets like Jatuchak and Klong Thom, from old photos of the royal family and beauty queens to post-marked WWII era letters and rare stamps. In one corner are shelves filled with of outof-print books and miscellaneous printed matter: copies of retro 1960s travel magazine Holiday Time in Thailand, a programme from an old Miss Thailand contest, etc. In the other are sets of cigarette cards featuring illustrations of Siamese proverbs, boy scouts and plays; and covers of late 19th century French newspapers like ‘Le Petit Journal’ and ‘L’Impartial’. Acquired on his trips to Europe, and featuring beautiful colour lithographs of King Chulalongkorn, or King Rama V, these are highly prized by Thai collectors and cost a mint. The same goes for the rare first editions of steamship-era orientalist travelogues that sit in the glass cabinet by the front window, like H. Warington Smyth’s Five Years in Siam, and Ernest Young’s The Kingdom of the Yellow Robe. Not see what you’re looking for? Call or drop the affable Manuel a line and he’ll keep his eyes peeled for you. บุ๊กส์ แอนด์ คอลเล็กติเบิลส์ shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown ‘stuff’ that Bangkok is justly famous for. Sretsis

Silk & apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more if you like). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for members of the Royal family), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping malls Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer up a host of homespun high fashion by trendy labels such as Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery & gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionally-mined precious stones.The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam.There are a few diamonds in the rough, though, such as the excellent Jewelry Trade Center, which offers great service, as well as a wide variety of arts and antiques. n jewelry trade center (919/1 Silom Road, Bangrak, 02-6301000; www.jewelrytradecenter.com).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP (One Tambon One Product), a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

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Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.106). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.106); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 104

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com n Panpuri

Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: When shopping, look out for signs advertising ‘VAT Refund or Tourists’. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7 per cent on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you queue up to buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. A word of caution: if you are making large purchases and not being asked to pay VAT, you aren’t guaranteed they are quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th bangkok 101

bangkok design Brian Mertens

To savour the subversiveness of Anusorn Ngernyuang’s designs, it helps to consider the difference between Kitsch style, his specialty, and kitsch itself. Kitsch is a German term coined by art theoreticians to refer to art and decoration that, from a sophisticated point of view, is excessive, maudlin, or embarrassingly mediocre. Kitsch style is the campy, postmodern celebration of kitsch, half sincere, half ironic. From a Western (and rather condescending) point of view, Asia has always been a vast but unwitting source of kitschy stuff. Kitsch style, however, has been slow to catch on in places like Thailand. Perhaps the tone of ridicule is too sharp? It takes a designer like Anusorn, the son of a horror novelist, to be unafraid to make fun. “My parents knew I was strange,” confesses the designer, who left home in his teens for Germany and Holland, where he studied, worked in hotels, and launched three Purifying Thai restaurants. A neighbour in Amsterdam happened to be renowned Czech designer Borek Sipek, who became his friend and mentor. After 20 years abroad, Anusorn returned to Bangkok to handle production of Sipek’s furniture and housewares. Soon he launched his own collection, described in the Reflections product literature as “Trendy stuff to purify the modern home in a most advanced mode.” Kitsch wares are usually mass-produced; Anusorn’s twist is handcrafting them, like baskets and ottomans woven from a rainbow of PVC plastic (instead of the natural materials village artisans traditionally use). He has thousands of designs for rugs, lamps, handbags, seating, luggage, figurines, and more, mostly destined for European boutiques and department stores. “Even if something is not kitsch, you can turn it into kitsch, especially with colour. Kitsch affects you first with colour. Inside your soul you can feel something – it’s something deep inside.” Available from: n www.reflections-thai.com n Moody, 4 floor Baiyoke Tower II, Pratunam, Rajchaparop Road, Rajchathewee

Anusorn Ngernyuang of Reflections Thai the Modern Home

Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish | B1,200 - hardcover | written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

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Shopping

Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more. Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

u ri ro ad

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

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Phaya Thai road

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWA N B A N GKO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

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EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

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C E N T RAL C HI T LOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers.The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

phetburi road

ploenchit road

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom Allwhite interior features glitzy, topclass brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

ong s u raw

JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

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Jatujak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has evolved its own diverse ecosystem (albeit one that periodically gets busted). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

jatujak Map Rd . 1 n io

If you’re after one of the coolest T-shirt shops in town, then look no further. At Bang! Bang!, the universal item of clothing is adorned by graphic representations of cultural icons such as John Lennon, Audrey Hepburn, Kurt Cobain, Bruce Lee and, ahem, Mr Bean. The illustrations are drawn on white cloth and then sewn onto a colourful array of T-shirts (they can also mix and match to order). If you need a little inspiration, then check out how other Bangkokians are styling Bang! Bang! tees at its popular Facebook page. Divided into the categories of Portrait, I Wanna Be A Hero, Figure and Take Me Home, the designs also appear on wallets, postcards, brooches and magnets; offering all you style WHERE Section 20, hounds true bang for your buck. Soi 2 | 089-185-8894 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

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bangkok 101

BANG! BANG!

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

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Shopping

markets Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao intersection | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills.

Specialists in Bangkok for high-quality fabrics for women!! ...from french laces, silk jacquards, chiffon prints, cording laces, embroidered laces, taffettas linens, cottons, satins, and more...

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree

Chakphet Rd. Chakphet Rd.

Merryking

Wangburapa Rd.

Chakphet Rd.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

The Old Siam

Visit us now for the lastest collections and new designs!! Gandhi-326 Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-2255-997/503 H 9-6pm (Mon-Sat) 9-5.30pm (Sun) Cynosure-A002 G/F ChinaWorld Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T 02-225-2001-3 H 9.30-7pm (Mon-Sun) 108

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certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

เทเวศน์

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of longtail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Pratunam Just a ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fast-talking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.

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Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In every issue, the Bangkok 101 puts its heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok’s new breed of hotel. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique banner.

BAAN WAREE

Where 24 Paholyothin 8 (Soi Sailom 1), Samsennai, 02-272-6300, BTS Ari, www.baanwaree.com Price B599 small/ B999 medium/ B1,099 large

On the outskirts of town, Baan Waree is almost certainly the quirkiest budget crash pad it’s possible to find in it. Opened by the pioneer behind Ari’s acclaimed Reflections pop art hotel, but now under new management, it’s a low slung 1970s-era apartment block that takes one of the boutique hotel’s tenets – each room is different – and does a freeform Jackson Pollack with it. Walking around, Baan Waree could easily be the refuge of a gang of frustrated art undergrads. And the truth isn’t far off – each of the 26 rooms has been done up by a young Thai artiste, their designs ranging from cutesy to grungey brought to life using stencil art, paint, kitsch trinkets and toys, and, above all, bags of imagination. One room is lined with pages torn out of The Face or some other edgy fashion bible, for instance, another with recycled rice sacks, etc. As for the set-up, each room shares a public, eccentrically decorated living room and kitchen with two others. Breakfast, a hearty American complete with cereal and yoghurt options, is served in a canteen done out with candycoloured chairs and – one of many comic/disconcerting touches scattered throughout – plastic toy owls beside the condiments. Perfect for enjoying it in, there’s also a big yard with garden out front, and a rooftop from which you can sit and admire the Paholyothin neighbourhood, a truly local – and quiet – slice of Bangkok suburbia. Softening Baan Waree’s off-kilter charms is the friendly Thai family who now run it. Don’t be surprised if you meet the teenage children, grandma or the golden retriever during your stay. Best of all, the manager Khun Withichai really looks out for you, be it by leaving out breakfast basics if you’re leaving early for the floating market, or coming out and waving his finger at taxi drivers who dare to overcharge you. He also lays on a minibus shuttle service – free drop-offs or pick-ups from the nearest skytrain station, Ari, or the nearby Jatuchak Weekend Market, etc.

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Choose one of these seductive boutique hotels for Valentine’s Day or just because, ahem, you’re in the mood for love.

ravishing rooms

SHANGHAI MANSION 479-481 Yaowarat Rd | MRT Hua Lamphong (then taxi) | 02-678-0101 | www. shanghaimansion.com | B4,000 – 5,000 With Valentine’s Day falling hot on the heels of Chinese New Year, this Chinatown boutique hotel brimful of romantic, opium-dream chinoiserie makes sense. The hotel’s right on the main drag, which means that street noise can drift up to front-facing rooms. However, once you’re in yours – a Technicolor trip of imperial reds, silk flowers and pop-peony patterns – you’ll both be too busy romping on your sumptuous, swoony bed to care.

ชางไฮแมนชั่น ถ.เยาวราช

ARUN RESIDENCE 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | B3,500 – 5,500 An intimate inn with one breathtaking difference: its wood-deck restaurant, rooftop bar, library and 6 guest rooms all overlook the river and Wat Arun, the Khmer-style temple that predates modern Bangkok. At night, when spotlights lend it a golden orange hue, this river vista is pure smoochy couple material. All rooms have a bronzy Thai charm – teak finishes, arts and crafts, extravagant bathrooms – but the most romantic is far and away the Arun Suite, thanks to its private terrace, perfect for fairytale marriage proposals.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง

Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

Love in the Air Promotion! Aroma Hot Candle

Body Scrub & Aroma Milk Therapy Massage 90 minutes Special only B1,590 (from B2,250 )

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3). Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store. For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com

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Health&Wellness

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.114 for this month’s listings) – there’s no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations always recommended.

Thai massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

Red Wine Spa Package

Tall and slim, Avanti’s Beauty & Spa in Thonglor emulates every girl’s dream; it’s long corridor is three stories high and equipped with five private rooms, which can accommodate your every beauty need. The Red Wine Body Treatment allows you to channel Dionysus for a luxurious two hours. Cleverly using all parts of the fruit, it starts out with a twenty-minute grape seed body mask.Then comes the full body scrub, which helps to exfoliate dead cells, leaving your skin a blank new slate ready to absorb all the red wine extracts have Where Avanti Beauty & Spa, to offer. A word to Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) between the wise, don’t shave Soi 5 and Soi 7, immediately before as TEL 02-712-7784 or 089-927-3661, it might cause a little WEB www.avantispathailand.com irritation. Next, believe Price B3,900 it or not, you are left to soak in a red wine filled Jacuzzi. And even though your teeth are never safe, you can be sure the extracts won’t stain your skin. They act as natural antioxidants to assist in the neverending battle against aging. This is all topped off with a red wine oil aroma massage that smells so good you just might think you’re edible. The vinotherapy treatment gives you a taste of luxury and leaves you soft and supple, thinking maybe you are the next goddess of wine.

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spas

Lavana with our 40 spacious rooms and individual private shower rooms exudes contemporary elegance. Its plush graceful interiors permeates the Spa creating an atmosphere of luxury and spacious ease. Unique to Lavana are our handcrafted herbal ball made fresh in our workshop every day. Enjoy our extensive menu including Facial treatment, Aroma oil and Thai and Foot massage. This is truly luxury at affordable prices.

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different fresh herbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body. Another exclusive treatment is the Shirodhara Indian head massage. This is an ancient theraphy performed by certified therapists. As you lie back a continuous stream of warm oil is poured on the middle of the forehead. The soothing cares of your ‘third eye’ lulls you into a deep sleep and balances the brain and calms the mind.

Breakfast at Lavana

Imagine leaving all the cares of the world behind and spending a slow leisurely morning relaxing in your own private room. Spend the hours lingering over a sumptuous American breakfast after pampering yourself with our exclusive massage treatment. Could breakfast at Lavana’s become your own secret escape? (free breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.-13.00 pm. with any oil massage treatment)

Special Promotion February 2011

FREE breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm with any oil massage treatment2010 and any oil massage get free facial SPECIAL PROMOTION 1st  31st OCTOBER - 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm. Any oil massage. Free facial treatment treatment from 09.00 am.- 14.00 pm. - Aroma oil massage 60 min. 800 THB / 90 min. 1,000 THB / 120 min. 1,200 THB NEW PACKAGE FOR THE MONTH OF LOVE - 4 hand aroma 60 min. 1,400 THB / 90 min. 1,600 THB / 120 min. 1,800 THB Love Spell Package 3 hrs./ B2,000 included - Thai Massage 60 min. 450 THB/ 90 min. 550 THB/ 120 min. 650 THB Body Scrub 60 mins - Thai Massage with Herbal Ball 90 min. 850 THB/ 120 min. 950-Coconut THB

-Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Massage 120 mins

LAVANA LAVANABANGKOK BANGKOK

No.4 soisoi Sukhumvit 12,Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 No.4 Sukhumvit 12, Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel:Tel: +66(0) mail@lavanabangkok.com +66(0)222294510-12, 2294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com ForFor taxi: ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ุมวิประมาณ ท 12 ประมาณ 100 เมตรอยู นขวามื taxi:ลาวานา ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ขุมวิทข12 100 เมตรอยู ดานขวามื อ ตึดกาใหญ สีเขียวอ ตึกใหญสีเขียว Opening hours: am.-00.00 reception 23.00 pm.) Opening hours: 09.00 09.00 am.-00.00 am.am. (last(last reception 23.00 pm.) Advance booking ishighly highly recommended Advance booking is recommended bangkok 101 health & wellness

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wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified 114

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physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is big business in Thailand; quite literally a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 different countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of other world-class medical centres – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international patients. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad International, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your

bangkok 101

private room, they have their own immigration department and a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your visit. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

FEATURED medical treatment

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com Balavi

Acupuncture The thought of voluntarily having needles jabbed into your skin may raise a few hairs and visions of Hellraiser. Nevertheless, acupuncture is a tried and tested regimen that has been a staple of traditional Chinese medicine for over than 2000 years. In ancient Chinese medical teachings, the body consists of two, inseparable, opposing forces, the Yin and the Yang.The Yin is the passive side and the Yang is the active side, both of which must be kept in equal balance in order to best maintain your health; diseases arise when the body is not in a balance state leading to a blockage to a blocked flow of Qi, or vital energy, throughout the body. In acupuncture, licensed practitioners place long, slim, steel needles into specific points throughout the body, depending on the ailment, to unblock the flow of Qi. As esoteric as “unblocking your Qi” may sound, many have found that acupuncture brings direct relief for a wide range of ailments, from kidney stones to hypertension. The practice has even been credited with helping smokers kick the habit and relieving chronic pain by regulating the nervous system and triggering the release of painkilling endorphins into the brain. While pain relief via human pin cushion may not be for everyone, either because of the heebie-jeebies or health restrictions (people suffering from blood diseases can’t undergo it), for many it can be miraculous. One word to the wise: visit a fully licensed acupuncture specialist like the ones listed below, who maintain the strictest standards of quality and cleanliness. n Acupuncture Clinic Vibhavadi Hospital | 51/3 Ngamwongwan | 02-941-2800 |www.vibhavadi.com n St Louis Hospital | 215 South Sathorn | Chinese Traditional Medicine | 02-675-5000 ext. 20198,20199 n Balavi Natural Health Centre | 191/3 Soi Ranong 1 Rama VI |02-615-8822 n Kitjawet Clinic | 54 Chan Rd (off Narathiwat Rd.) | 02-287-3259 | www.thaiacupuncture.com

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention in the ring n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

Muay Thai

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.34) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

t’ai chi

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. bangkok 101

Major Bowl

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02-354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among spor ts

youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice. And this is Thailand so of course there’s also a popular karaoke set-up on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace (and recently retired) Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. For spectators, towards the end of the men’s and women’s seasons, Bangkok hosts the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 117

Courses&Services

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 118

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล

อะคาเดมีโมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Sarnelli House

Even charities in and around Bangkok struggle to make ends meet, but for Sarnelli House its mission – caring for orphaned, abandoned, abused and HIV infected children – is made all the more precarious by its location in the poor northeastern province of Nong Khai. Formed in 1999 by Father Michael Shea, an American Redemptorist priest, Sarnelli House is made up of six different houses in three separate villages near the Mekong River. Together they house a total of 160 children, of which 60 are HIV infected. Some are orphans infected by their mothers; others were raped by infected adults. Over the years Father Shea has seen children being brought in by their dying parents, family members that are unable or unwilling to look after them, and Thai Social Services. Some were born in prison, others have been found wandering – or even working – the streets. Sarnelli House provides an education, health care, food and shelter and lots of love to all of them. Over the years, relationships with schools and hospitals in Isaan have been nurtured to ensure they live as full and normal a life as possible. The Nongkhai District Hospital and Khon Kaen’s Sirinagarind Hospital, for example, provide anti-retroviral (ARV) drugs to the HIV infected kids that need them. And all children well enough attend the nearby Rosario Witthaya Catholic School. However, the majority of Sarnelli House’s funding (paying its Thai staff, the maintenance of buildings, vehicles, provision of food, school fees, uniforms and any other costs) is Father Shea’s responsibility, and relies on the goodwill of donors. Log on to their website’s ‘Support’ page for details on how you can become one or, better still, sponsor a child. Sarnelli House also welcomes volunteers, but only during school holidays (2011 dates: March 15-May 1; October 1-21), when the kids have free time on their hands. If you are interested in volunteering during these times please send your current CV and two letters of recommendation. You will also be required to have a police check. Playing with and keeping the children company will be one of your main roles, but you will also be asked to help dish out the children’s food, fold their clothes, help them with their homework, run English classes, play sports and games, and supervise them on school outings, among other duties. A US $20 a day charge, to cover costs, is asked of all volunteers. If donating money or your time and energy isn’t possible, you can also just pop by for a visit when up in Nong Khai, to spend some time with these smiling and inspiring kids, though you should email or phone ahead to make sure they’ll be around. A map can be found on the website. bangkok 101

SARNELLI HOUSE 18/1 Moo 1 Viengkhuk, Muang Nongkhai, 43000 TELEPHONE: (+66) (0)42-436-941 WEBSITE: www.sarnelliorphanage.org VOLUNTEER ENQUIRIES: volunteer@sarnelliorphanage.org

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Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.21)

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

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CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

reference

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. bangkok 101