Bangkok 101 - January 2011 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

january 2011 100 baht

tourists

photography by dow Wasiksiri

t h r o u g h t h e etourists yes of his kingdom

metrobeat: SRA BUA island escape: PHUKET upcountry escape: loei 1 on 1: BHANU INKAWAT making merit: TOYS FOR THAILAND januar y 2011

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

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publisher’s

letter

january 2011

It’s high-season here in the Kingdom: the time of year when beaches, tourist attractions, and hotels across the land are at their fullest. With this upsurge in visitors in mind, it seems apt to kick off our first issue of 2011 with photo feature Tourists: Thai photographer Dow Wasiksiri’s firmly tonguein-cheek look at the strange customs and sartorial habits of the millions who visit the country. Wasiksiri took these candid shots at popular tourist sites around the capital. The result is part thought-provoking meta-work on the nature of holidays, part lesson in how not to dress when on your holidays. Check out p.52, then don an oversized sombrero and head down to Kathmandu Photo Gallery for the full selection. Elsewhere in this issue, alongside our usual glut of reviews, we shine a light on the hazier corners of Thai culture. Our Paradise Found music column explores the strange, visceral hybrid rock of late 1970s singer and musician Sroeng Santi, while Very Thai reveals the ins and outs of the amulet trade – an industry worth an astonishing ten billion baht a year. As for our other passion, travel, to keep everyone happy this month we’ve laid on both upcountry and offshore escapes: we revisit the tropical island of Phuket, and Isaan’s rugged Loei, home of the country’s most climbed mountain Phu Kradung and some of its coolest temperatures. We also pop down to Saraburi – the sunflower capital of the Kingdom – and the city’s latest mega-bucks attraction, Madame Tussauds Bangkok. Finally, for this issue’s 1 on 1 interview, we chat with Bhanu Inkawat, co-founder of iconic Thai fashion label Greyhound. Take his sage fashion pointers to heart and you’ve no need to fear being caught short in our next tourist fashion faux pas expose, dahling. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

What i1s01? Bangkosekd, Bangkok 101 cahtearst they

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contributors Dow Wasiksiri

Son of a Thai diplomat, photographer Dow Wasiksiri’s multi-cultural background gives him a dual insider-outsider view on his own country – a dichotomy that informs much of his award-winning work. Since returning to Thailand in 1983, he’s shot for fashion magazines, explored his inner psyche through the lense, exhibited at solo and group exhibitions, and set up his own commercial studio, Persona. Currently, he’s working on a book about the Thai way of life. www.dowwasiksiri.com

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Ver y Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Dave Stamboulis

Publisher Mason Florence

Steven Pettifor

Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Deputy Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Pattarasuda Prajittanond Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger

Greek-born but Californiar aised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he wor ks for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, often via bicycle, kayak, or on foot. His travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

British-born writer-ar tist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentar y scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinar y fame . She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the nightout culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia. com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit, TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Nuntila Sompoo Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2010. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

january 2011

snapshots

8 9 10 12 13 16 17 18 19

101 picks 1 on 1: bhanu inkawat new opening: madame tussauds bangkok events calendar metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: amulet collectors

sightseeing 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 30 31 32 34 35 37 38 40 42

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: charoen krung route101: sam phraeng route101: pathumwan temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums the great outdoors what next? day trip: saraburi upcountry festivals island escape: phuket upcountry escape: loei

on the cover: Tourists in Bangkok

arts 44 45 46 47 49 50 51 52

contemporary art exhibitions performing arts cultural centres paradise found cinema reading & screening photo feature: tourists

table of

contents

january 2011

food & drink 60 61 62 63 64 65 71 72 77 78 79 80 81 82

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats featured restaurant neighbourhood nosh: phra athit road thai restaurants featured tea brunching all you can eat sweet treats late dining wine

nightlife 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawls

shopping 102 103 104 105 106 107 108

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets

accommodation 110 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 112 113 114 115

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

110

sports

116 spectator sports 117 active sports

courses & services

118 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 119 making merit

113

reference 120 getting around

119

Snapshots

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer.

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.107).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.119).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.78).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.30).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.84-96).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar This pleasant evening market is full of arts, crafts, textiles, and a large Chang beer garden (p.108).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.118).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.21).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.87).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.106).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.118).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop. (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.117).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.88).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars.

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.116).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.61).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature.

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.75).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.106).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.47).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.64).

■ Lumpini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.34).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (p.98-100).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.106).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.30).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.72).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.108).

■ Thai Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.46).

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bangkok 101

1 on 1 Ask a local to name you some top homegrown fashion labels and ‘Greyhound’ will inevitably get a mention. Since starting out way back in 1980, this designer brand from Bangkok has stitched its way to success, delivering simple street clobber with a ‘twist’ season in, season out while also branching out with sub-labels and a spin-off café chain. In recognition of this Thai fashion trailblazer’s 30th year, we sat down with co-founder and creative director Bhanu Inkawat to talk Greyhound’s past, present and future, and get his views on the scene as its stands.

Bhanu Inkawat What did the Thai fashion scene look like when Greyhound started out? When we opened its door in 1980, the Thai fashion industry was still quite barren. There were only classic commercial brands available in the department stores, not many hip and creative Thai ready-to-wear brands and very few imported foreign brands. There were also tailor shops where you could bring in photos from magazines and they would copy to order. To what extent is Greyhound clothing influenced by Bangkok? Bangkok never stands still and has an anything goes attitude. In our collections we try to channel and offer that. Where spots are the best for bagging hot Thai fashion? There’s Siam Center, Siam Paragon, Central Department Stores, The Emporium and of course Jatujak Weekend Market. And trendspotting? Jatujak market, the bar

bangkok 101

scene,

trendy restaurants and, of course, Greyhound Café. And just plain relaxing? All the spas and Thai massage places, and street-chic coffee cafés. Which other local labels do you recommend we check out? Established ones I follow include Senada, Sretsis, Disaya, Kai, Soda, Kloset. Up-and-coming ones: Realistic Situation, Chai, Sunshine, Achemist, Boyy Bag, Munchu’s, and Asava. Is it easier or tougher now for new Thai designers to get a break? The word ‘Thai’ means “freedom” and let me assure you that Thais have a lot of it in most areas, including expressing our creativity. There aren’t many places in the world where a young art student or designer can open up a stall and sell their collection as easily as they can here. That said, many lack discipline and so quickly go out of business. Has Thai fashion made the impact internationally you would like it to?

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Creatively Thai designers are being recognized internationally, but the industry here is still very young compared with other fashion cities around the world. Thai brands have only started to venture into the international market over the past 8 to 10 years and we still have to a lot more to learn in order to integrate into the world’s fashion system and really compete. What’s holding the local fashion industry back? It’s not the quality of design, it’s the lack of industry infrastructure that other fashion cities have already installed long ago: marketing support, financial back-up, etc. We need to get our heads together and with the government’s support; only then can we grow and compete. If you could give Bangkok a Greyhound design ‘twist’, where would you start? I have always wanted to come up with a solution to all the [city’s] street vendors, as they are an eyesore but at the same time they offer great shopping and eating opportunities for us all. How to make it work on both levels, that’s the challenge!

Snapshots Ad Carabao, or sing a tune with sexy Thai pop starlet Tata Young, among many other diverting, hands-on challenges. Perhaps the most endearing thing about Madame Tussauds Bangkok though is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women, famous monks, poets and statesmen. In this city where the world looks flat, where local designers struggle to compete with imported brands and homegrown movies routinely get shunted off the Cineplex schedules to make way for Hollywood pap, that’s to be applauded.

new opening

Madame Tussauds Bangkok Not the tourist trap you might think

s the opening of the new Madame Tussauds Bangkok worth getting excited about? If childhood memories of the snaking queue at the flagship London branch serve this reviewer correctly, not really. Then there’s the asking price: B700. That’s a big fat ask of most Bangkokians, and especially their target audience – the local Siam shopper with a couple of hours to kill, a modest income, and untold malls, boutiques, restaurants and cinemas all vying for their baht. So, with the odds stacked high against it, and the price raising the public’s expectations even higher, how does this multi-million baht mega-attraction on the sixth floor of the Siam Discovery shopping centre fare? Pretty well, actually. For starters, there’s no sign so far of the queues that the London branch is infamous for (perhaps they should start giving away Krispy Kreme doughnuts); and even if there was we think we’d still have enjoyed our hour plus wander through this 2,000m² facility dotted with over 70 eerily lifelike wax figures. Major plus point numero uno. Unlike the Madame Tussauds’ of old, where MJ and George Michael were sealed off behind velvet ropes and guarded by surly men with walkietalkies, the Tussauds of today is a tactile place. Here you can hug, poke, grope, snap and view up close the imperfections of your fave celebs to your heart’s content. And, once you’ve finished pointing out Winslet’s crows-feet, talking human rights with Aung San Suu Kyi, or admiring Jolie’s Khmer tat, there are interactive games to stave off waxwork-fatigue too. You can slam dunk with Yao Ming, play the drums for 10

Highlights among Tussauds’ Thai fraternity include HM the King’s parents, Prince Mahitala and Princess Sringarinda; boxing champ Khaosai Galaxy; late electric luk thung legend Pumpuang Duangjan; and, the greatest onscreen movie duo of all time, Mitr Chaibancha and Petchara Yaowarat (both looking, I might add, as dashing and doeeyed as they did in their 60s heyday, bless ‘em). Somewhat oddly, a couple of controversial Thai figures made it in – military dictator Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkram, for example – but poor old Thaksin, the only Thai Prime Minister to be elected twice consecutively, didn’t. The casual veneration of a divisive old politician, and the glaring omission of an arguably more relevant other, is but a small gripe however. The fact that we’re talking about them at all is proof that Madame Tussauds Bangkok is a tourist attraction far more culturally conscious and attuned to its local market than we expected it to be. Let’s hope the queues don’t get too long. Where 6F Siam Discovery, Pathumwan | 02-658-0060 | www.madametussauds.com/bangkok BTS Siam Exit 1, National Stadium Exit 3 Open 10am-9pm Price Children B500, Adult B700 (15% Discount for online tickets)

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มาดามทุซโซ สยามดิสคัฟเวอรี่ ชั้น 6

bangkok 101

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january calendar Jan 6-19: Japanese Film Festival 2011 SF World Cinema, Central World Plaza | 02-268-8888 | www. jfbkk.or.th | Free Entry

See Metrobeat ‘Film’

Jan 12: Carnifex Rock Pub, Ratchathewi | 02-251-9980 | www. therockpub-bangkok. com| B1,000

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

Jan 6-30: Bangkok Noir National Gallery | 02281-0942 | www.goethe. de/thailand | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

Until Jan 9: Alice Day The Living Room, Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit | 02649-8640 | www. eatdrinkandmore.com/ bangkok

Until Jan 9: Rupture: Cause and Effect BACC | 02-2146632|www.bacc.or.th

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

Jan 10-31: Glimpses of the Past Goethe-Institut Atrium, 18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn 1 | 02-287-0942 | www. goethe.de

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Jan 14-Feb 13: Contemporary Japanese Crafts Exhibition BACC | 02-260-8560 | www.jfbkk.or.th | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Fair & Exhibition’

Until Jan 19: Motorcycle Station BACC | 02-214-6630-8 | http://museumserve. blogspot.com/

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

Jan 15: Malente Glow, Sukhumvit 23 | 02261-3007| www.ubradio. net | Entry Fee B350 (one drink)

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

mpact Arena, Muangthong Thani | 02-504-5050 | www. thailandmegashow.com | Free

Jan 21-23: 3rd French Open Air Cinema

Jan 26-30: Bangkok Motorbike Festival 2011

Lumpini Park & Santichai Prakan Park | 02-670-4200 | www.alliance-francaise. or.th | Free

Central World Plaza | 02-320-0033 | www. thailandmotorbikefestival. com | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Film’

Jan 28-30: Thailand International Jazz Conference Mahidol University, Phuttanonthon Sai 4 | 02-262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B500

Jan 15-23: Thailand Mega Show 2011

Jan 29: Cancer Care Lumpini Park | 02-1268866 | www.fourseasons. com/bangkok |

See Metrobeat ‘Charity’

Jan 16: Tribute to Beppe Fenoglio and Cesare Pavese BACC | 02-2146632|www.bacc.or.th

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

See Metrobeat ‘Trade Fairs’

Jan 27: The Tale of Khun Chang Khun Phaen lecture

National Museum Auditorium, Na Phrathat Rd, Phra Nakorn | www. museumvolunteersbkk.net | 10am | B200

See Metrobeat ‘Lectures’

Until Feb 6: The Florist: Life with Flowers TCDC, 6th Floor Emporium mall, Sukhumvit Road | www. tcdc.or.th | free

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’ Until Feb 13: Music in the Park Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumpini Park | 02-255-6618 | www. bangkoksymphony.org | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’

Until Apr 3: The Body Show: Asia Tour

Until Feb 28: HM the King’s 84th Birthday Celebrations

Bangkok’s Capitol Club, Sukhumvit 24 | 02-661-1210 | www. totalreservation.com | B300

Sala Saha Thai Samakhom, Grand Palace | 02-623-5500| B500

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

See Metrobeat ‘Shows’ snapshots

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

bangkok 101

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings. By Howard Richardson

Nightlife

Art

Apparently voted number one act in the German club charts for his unique variety of electro house in 2009, Malente promises to bring “a rockin’ and funky feel, loud and dirty, cut up and tweaked” when he plays at Glow on January 15. Entry price (B350) includes one drink.

Charity The Four Seasons hotel (02-126-8866) holds the 4th Cancer Care, a charity fun run in Lumpini Park on January 29. There are 5km and 10km routes, plus activities for kids. Registration is from 7am-7.45am (minimum donation B350). Proceeds go towards research projects at the Genetic Cancer Research Centre at Chulalongkorn Hospital.

Lectures Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit, writers of several acclaimed books about Thailand, give a lecture on The Tale of Khun Chang Khun Phaen – “Siam’s great folk epic of love and war” – at the National Museum Auditorium (02-224-1333) on Jan 27.The couple recently translated the original tale into English. Starts 10am, donation fee is B200 for non-members.

Exhibition A total of sixty four artworks, including many ceramics, glassware and metalwork, will appear in the upcoming Contemporary Japanese Crafts Exhibition from January 14-February 13 at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (02-214-6632). The pieces are displayed in themes: Ostentation, Quiet Refinement, Crispness, Fine Detail, Deformation, Flowers and Birds. For more details, visit the Japan Foundation (www.jfbkk.or.th, 02-260-8560). bangkok 101

metro beat

Among a host of exhibitions this month, the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (02-2146632) shows Rupture: Cause and Effect until January 9, which explores Thailand’s recent political upheavals through the photographs of Manit Sriwanichpoom, Wolfgang Bellwinkel; Agnes Dherbeys; Piyatat Hemmatat, and the curator Olivier Pin-Fat. Also continuing at the venue are pieces by nine artists on motorcycle jackets, in Motorcycle Station, until January 19, and works painted in tribute to the novelists Beppe Fenoglio and Cesare Pavese by Italian artists Sandro Chia and Mimmo Paladino until January 16. Glimpses of the Past by Hermann Schlenker, from January 10-31 at the Goethe Institut (02-287-0942), shows photographs of northern hill tribes taken by the anthropologist between 1964 and 1965. This is the first time they have been seen in public. The art of florists is celebrated at the Thailand Creative & Design Center (TCDC) (02-664-8448) in The Florist: Life with Flowers until February 6. The shows, which include multimedia presentations and feature the creations of eight florists, including Panitan Thongsatit and Sakul Intakul, change weekly. Free Admission. The photographs of Ralf Tooten and Roger Willemsen exhibit in Bangkok Noir at the National Gallery from January 6-30. The works depict Bangkok at night, from temples to tattoos and street cinema. Runs every WedSun with a film screening of One Night in Bangkok on January 12. For more infor mation call 02-2870942.

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Film

Events

The 3rd French Open Air Cinema shows six films over two weekends amid the greenery of Lumpini Park (January 14-16) and Santichai Prakan Park (January 21-23). The movies are Les Parapluies de Cherbourg; Le Hussard sur le Toit; and La Fille de Monaco (at Lumpini) and A Bout de Souffle; L’heure Zéro; and Les Enfants de Timpelbach (at Santichai Prakan). Reels roll from 7pm in French with English subtitles. Free entry, but bring a mat, as there are no seats. For film synopses visit www. alliance-francaise.or.th. The Japanese Film Festival 2011: Akira Kurosawa 100 Years Retrospective from January 6-19 at SF World Cinema (02-268-8888) shows 25 films by the Japanese master known as one of cinema’s greatest film makers. The movies, which include early works like Drunken Angel (1948), as well as the influential Seven Samurai (1954), have English subtitles. There’s also a discussion between upcoming Thai directors on Kurosawa’s work as inspiration. Entry is free, with tickets available, one per person, 30 minutes before screening. See the Japan Foundation website (www.jfbkk.or.th) for the full schedule.

There are multimedia shows in the Grand Palace compound daily except Monday until Feb 28 that form part of the festivities for HM the King’s 84th Birthday Celebrations, which will run throughout 2011. This year is particularly auspicious as it marks the king’s 7th Cycle Birthday Anniversary on December 5. The shows, from 7pm-8.20pm, also honour HM the Queen’s 80th and HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn’s 60th birthdays, both in 2012. Tickets are priced at B500 per person.

Classical The annual season of Music in the Park sees the Bangkok S y m p h o n y Orchestra playing every Sunday until February 13 in Lumpini Park. These are beautiful cool season evenings with boating on the lake, picnics on the grass and a soundtrack of film music, Broadway tunes and popular classical from 5.30pm. Free entry. See www. bangkoksymphony.org for more information.

Rock & Pop

Shows

San Diego five-piece Carnifex bring deathcore live to the Rock Pub (02-251-9980) on January 12. They are touring on the back of their third album Hell Chose Me.

Food & Drink Fans of Bangkok’s first upscale Vietnamese restaurant, Le Dalat, which ran from 1985 until recently, will salivate at its re-opening in new premises a few doors down from the original on Sukhumvit Soi 23 (02-664-0670). It serves its fresh spring rolls, prawns with sugar cane and other Hanoi goodies within its trademark classicbut-bright interior in a 150 year-old wooden house amid a tropical garden. A sure hit. 14

The Body Show: Asia Tour at Bangkok’s Capitol Club (02661-1210) until April 3 has over 100 exhibits and 500 human specimens, including a complete body preserved through a process c a l l e d plastination. They show how muscles and organs work and the effects of diseases such as cancer. Should be fascinating, but perhaps not for the faint of heart. Tickets are B300 from Total Reservation (www. totalreservation.com).

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

Jazz The Thailand International Jazz Conference, at Mahidol University, Phuttamonthon Sai 4, from January 28-30, has a series of workshops and concerts in day and night sessions from 10am and 6pm, respectively. The highlights include a trio led by Swedish guitarist Andreas Oberg, who has gigged with Mark Murphy, Larry Coryell and Toots Thielemans (Jan 28); The Kurt Rosenwinkel Trio (Jan 29), led by a guitarist who’s played with Joe Henderson, Paul Motion and Brad Mehldau (also featuring Branford Marsalis’s bass player Eric Revis); and a trio brought by Panamanian pianist Danilo Perez, a veteran of dates with Wynton Marsalis, Wayne Shorter and Michael Brecker (Jan 30). Tickets (B2,000 for three days or B500 per session) are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Check www.tijc.net for the full schedule. Over at the Living Room in the Sheraton Grande Hotel (02-6498640), American singer Alice Day is backed by the Shawn Kelley Trio, with pianist David Gomes, nightly except Monday until January 9.

Events

Sra Bua

If there’s another Thai restaurant with the playful approach of Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin, I haven’t heard of it. There certainly isn’t one in Bangkok. Or at least there wasn’t until Kiin Kiin launched Sra Bua in the capital late last year. And this is thrilling culinary theatre. A flower pot arrives with a carrot – leaves-and-all – sprouting from the top. It’s embedded in green curry mousse, a cooling cream followed by a stab of chilli, with hints of coconut and a topping of biscuit crumbs that add sweetness and texture. WHERE Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd, 02-162-9000 OPEN Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, Daily 6pm-11pm PRICE $$$$

Trade Fairs Shoppers will be off their trolleys at the country’s largest consumer exhibition, the Thailand Mega Show 2011, its 3,000 stalls packed with wedding dresses, toys, books, boots, travel packs, electronics and other stuff. ‘Yard arrangements’ could be worth a browse. Take your cash to Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from January 1523. More info at www.thailandmegashow.com.Tuesday to Sunday, 10:30am-9pm; admission free. All local bikers rejoice: the Bangkok Motorbike Festival brings Thai and foreign bikes, shiny bits and lots of leather gear to Central World (02-320-0033) from January 26-30. And, of course, there’s a beer garden with live music. Get more details at www.thailandmotorbikefestival.com. bangkok 101

Tom klong soup comes as three tiny jellies with broth on the side, so you taste the soup in varying textures and flavours; and red curry here is icecream with lychee foam and slivers of lobster and fruit. Liquid nitrogen, poured tableside into the supporting bowl, releases clouds of atmospheric smoke across the table. The taste is smooth, cold, creamy and sweet, with sharp blasts of onion. The aim is traditional flavours wherever possible, though the impressive results are less intense, dancing a refined waltz around the mouth, rather than the jitterbug that locals love so well. Dinner is a choice of two set menus, five courses (B1,800) or eleven (B2,400), and there’s a selection of five wines to accompany for an extra B2,400.

โรงแรมสยามเคมปิ น สกี้ ถ.พระราม1

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic.The core of the new city encompasses the

Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes.These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise The Guinness Book of Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

chronicle of 6 January 2001: thailand Thaksin’s election heralds new political era Thai Rak Thai party enters into a coalition with the New Aspiration Party

hanksin Shinawatra was set to become prime minister after his Thai Rak Thai (TRT) party won an overwhelming victory in national elections. TRT, which got 248 seats out of 500, just short of a majority, would lead a new coalition government. Promising a new era in Thai politics, Thaksin warned: ‘I still can aim my gun and pull the trigger. Before I die, I want to kill our enemies first, and these are poverty, drugs and corruption.’ Two weeks after the poll, Thaksin teamed up with the New Aspiration party. The coalition gave Thaksin control of more than 320 seats, enough to prevent a no-confidence motion against him – a key source of instability for previous governments. The incumbent Democrat Party sounded a reflective note on its defeat. Deputy party leader Abhisit Vejjajiva, said, ‘The polls showed that people have voted for us to be the opposition’. A total of 37 parties contested the election, and more than 140,000 police guarded polling booths, and protected politicians, after several shootings marred campaigning. The Election Commission handed out ‘red card’ disqualifications to at least seven candidates for alleged poll fraud – including five from TRT, and one each from New Aspiration and Chart Thai. ‘From the whole country, we’ve heard reports of vote buying, but we can’t do anything because we don’t have enough volunteers or police,’ the local Pollwatch Foundation announced. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

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Grand Palace

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 18

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Amulet Collectors Lucky charms as a lifestyle

re-Buddhist inhabitants carried animistic charms to ward off harm – or to win riches, luck or ladies. But the business in amulets, particularly in mass-produced Buddhist tablets, boomed only in the past half century. They’re traded from approximately 10,000 stalls and shops across the land, some fetching huge prices. Today amulet collection is an industry worth about ten billion baht ($250 million) a year. They come in four classes. The first are natural oddities: cat’s eye stones; peculiar seeds; antlers; teeth or tusks found lodged in trees; transformed metals like quicksilver; and khot stones found in animals or plants. Class II are images of the Buddha or monks; Class III need a spell to be activated and encompass trade talismans, folded palm leaf charms, phallic palad khik and yantra diagrams on cloth, jackets or tattoos. Another, takrud, is an embossed or engraved metal foil that’s rolled onto a chord or, in a miniscule form called salika, inserted under the skin. Class IV are waan yaa, plant roots used in shamanic medicine, black magic and the making of amulets. The Buddha amulet may come in cast bronze, carved wood, stone or tiger tooth, or most commonly

Photos by Philip Cornwel-Smith

very thai

as phra phim, clay votive tablets in rectangular, pointed, oval or bell shape. Ingredients influence their price, along with aesthetics, age, condition, number of pressings, purported powers, and the stature of the sponsoring monk. All classes gain potency from ritual blessing. These days, laymen attracted by the potential for profits are edging monks out of amulet production and earnings. As with artists’ paintings, death of a reputed monk gives a special boost to dealers’ margins. Five particular amulets earn the most reverence, and may fetch from half a million baht up. With such big money at stake, it’s no surprise that livelihoods depend on telling an original from a reprint or those stolen, copied or faked. Hence the certification of amulets and noting of buyers’ ID. Experts rove amulet markets with microscopes to test their authenticity for a 20 baht fee. Half a dozen magazines advertise prime pieces, swap gossip on discoveries, print going rates and recount miraculous tales of amulet-assisted escapes, often with bloody photos of near-death incidents. Often the first thing asked of an accident survivor is “khao sai phra arai” – “What amulet does he wear?”

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing Wat Arun

orientation

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Chinatown

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city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.26) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.22) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: Phra Athit Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street.There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

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N15: Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N9: Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

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N15

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Saphan Taksin The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N1: Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

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N6: Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N2: Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

N8: Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.28) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

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N10: Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.46) are all in the vicinity.

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

Rattanakosin

route 101 Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Phraya River and man-made canals. Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin ad

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then, once at the river, jump on an express boat heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style spire, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.29). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles deknotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.28) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.28). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.30). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head A^_d Bec 9^ec IWf^Wd north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.32). Ph ra Su me Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably nR W oa isu d tK find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you asa tR oa d BANGLAMPHU – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the AWe IWd He WZ d oa n R fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some Ratcha a :[ceYhWYo w damno Sa Cedkc[dj en Klan g Road on kh pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back Na Luk Luang Road near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard J^_fiWcW_ views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old F>H7 D7A>ED IWe 9^_d] 9^W city walking tour closer. =_Wdj Im_d]

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Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.29) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1

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aowarat, as Chinatown is popularly known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incenseshrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main,

Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.108) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neonlit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Road will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing air-con cooled restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a well-earned rest.

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nce plied by horse carts and rickshaws, this stretch of the city’s oldest Europeanstyle paved road, built in 1860, is now inundated by buses and tuk-tuks. Yet, despite the encroachment of the modern world, the lanes off Charoen Krung remain a treasure trove of flaking colonial-style architecture, bustling street markets, multi-ethnic food, and eclectic places of worship dating back to the early 20th century, when the area was Bangkok’s main hub of foreign commerce. For this walking tour, perfect for a morning or afternoon, start by hopping off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station. From here, walk away from the river until you reach Charoen Krung, turn right and head for Wat Yannawa, with its unusual boat-shaped wiharn. The structure was built on the orders of King Rama III (1787-1851), who, as he saw steamships replacing junks, wanted his people to remember the old ships that had brought the kingdom prosperity. Back on Charoen Krung, stop to crane your neck at one of the city’s eeriest reminders of the 1997 Asian

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Financial Crisis – a half-built concrete shell towering 47 storeys high. If its rounded balconies look familiar, that’s because they closely resemble those of the nearby State Tower. Next, turn left and head back the way you came, pass underneath the Skytrain flyover and you’ve arrived in Bang Rak district (trivia: as its name means ‘village of love’, every Valentine’s Day the district office is inundated by hordes of loved-up newlyweds seeking to register their marriages). Just off the main road, Bang Rak Market’s food stalls make for a great snack stop before you venture past the aforementioned State Tower (a 68-floor neo-classical behemoth home to one of the world’s highest open-air restaurants, Sirocco) and seek out the red-brick Assumption Cathedral. Built by French missionaries, it’s one of the finest Catholic churches in Thailand. Exit back onto Soi Oriental and you’re in the old European trading quarter, with its classical Venetian-style leftovers, such as the stately East Asiatic Company building, situated right beside the Tha Oriental river pier. If it’s late sightseeing

afternoon and you’re feeling parched, brush past the doormen of the Mandarin Oriental hotel opposite and make for the all-white, colonial throwback that is the Author’s Lounge, easily the grandest afternoon tea haunt in town. After a soothing spot of cha in the same setting that and Ernest Hemingway, head back out and away from the river, turn left and towards OP Place – a white, gabled, circa 1908 department store turned pricey objet d’art centre – on your right. However, if browsing Buddhist relics of dubious origin, while a haughty hi-so madam looks you up and down, isn’t your bag, continue on and turn left. Here, at the end of a narrow lane, you’ll spot the adorably shabby Old Customs House, which used to be the gateway into Bangkok for foreign merchants long before the rot set in. Currently the Bang Rak fire station, it’s fine to have a nosey around, though a property developer’s sign by the front entrance suggests that may not be the case for much longer. Still some fuel left in your tank? From here, you could continue on to Haroon Village (a tasty little Muslim enclave) or head back onto Charoen Krung and towards the Bangkokian Museum (an early 20th century Thai home frozen in time; p30). Alternatively, catch a tuk-tuk up to Chinatown (p24) or River City shopping centre (p106), where you can browse more antiques, hop on a dinner cruise or catch an express river taxi back to Saphan Taksin pier.

bangkok 101

Sam Phraeng

ust east of the Grand Palace and the stately ministry buildings that flank it sits one of the city’s first business districts, a maze of lanes lined with gracefully ageing shophouses dating back to the King Rama V era. Though Sam Phraeng’s glory days, when Thai Princes and nobility woauld shop here for luxury imported goods, are long behind it this heritage hood ticks along by selling Buddhist related items or yummy Thai snacks made to generations-old recipes. As a result, if you want to get a feel for the Bangkok of yore while stuffing your face silly, it’s a must explore. Come early, really early, and you may even get to see monks on their morning alms rounds. To get here from downtown, be adventurous and catch a spluttering Klong saeng saep canal boat to the end of the line: Saphan Phanfa Pier (see p.120). From here, one could cross the ornate bridge right beside the pier and

take a stroll down Thanon Boriphat, with its buzzing timber-merchant shophouses and pavement coated in fresh sawdust. However, those new to the Old City should begin around the corner at the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall: a multi-media museum that teaches you all about it, from its birth in 1782 to the craft-specialties of the shophouse communities that survive, with help from the Crown Property Bureau, within it. Next, turn left down Ratcha damneon Road – the city’s Champs D’Elsysee – until you reach the Democracy Monument. Built in 1939, it’s often the site of prodemocracy rallies (though somewhat ironically it was commissioned by a military dictator and it’s design inspired by Italian fascist architecture). Now head south down Thanon Dinso, a leafy lane lined with

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shophouse restaurants, including famous milk-and-toast stop Mont Nom Sod. After mopping up delicious sankaya (Thai custard) with forkfuls of hot toast here, turn right and pass Bangkok City Hall. Here, at the end of the square, you’ll spot the city’s giant swing, or Sao Ching Cha (and the tall, flame-shaped peaks of Wat Suthat, a temple commissioned by King Rama I, behind it). Though the Brahmin swinging ritual it was built for is now banned, it remains one of the city’s most iconic/sacred motifs. From here, head down Bamrung Muang road, past the shophouses selling Buddha statues, incense and other sacred paraphernalia, and turn right onto Tanao Road. Simply put, this is of our favourite parts of town. Known as Sam Phraeng, it consists of three lanes, each named after a Thai prince and lined with Sino-Portuguese style shophouses. There’s more to it than just old-world architecture though: aside from being perhaps the best preserved heritage neighbourhood in the city, this triumvirate teems with old-school Thai food. Our advice: stroll around, admire the painted shutters and ornate wooden fretwork, and, above all, follow your nose into the most mouthwatering kitchen shophouses, many of which have been open for generations. One every visiting travel journo seems to gush about is Chote Chitr on Phraeng Bhuthorn, but, be it Nattaporn’s coconut ice cream, Kor Panich’s sticky rice or Khanom Buang Mae Lamead’s tacolike crepes, you can’t really go wrong. After feasting on celestial Thai food at pauper’s prices, and admiring Phraeng Nara’s old wooden school, Talaphan Suksa, double back on to Tanao Road. Spots on it that may be of passing interest include Phraeng Sappasart’s baroque meets art deco gate, and the squat, incenseshrouded Chinese shrine Chao Pho Sua. At the end of the road there’s also the October 11th Memorial, which commemorates civilians killed during the 1973 pro-democracy rally. 25

Sightseeing

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Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at ri R

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex CentralWorld was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, it has since been re-opened, while the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop-for all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 109), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Jim Thompson’s House (see p.30). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

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bangkok 101

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Sightseeing

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | Dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some

Wat Arun

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

state rooms and halls open to visitors. These include the majestic Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

sightseeing

bangkok 101

The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps it takes to get there.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On most weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one of the few temples in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English. Call ahead to book.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the wellrespected Maha Makut Buddhist University, the Wat Bowoniwet Vihara temple is important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are usually brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings, every day. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe that these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and them bringing good fortune in the future. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-2260369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also a centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The awe-inspiring 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet. For those in the know, this is a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 30

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bangkok 101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume.The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below) located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.34) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.107), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.34) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.34) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Erawan Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 32

Museum of Siam

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

The National Museum

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bangkok 101

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL (map B3) 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com | Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | 02624-0044 | adults B200, kids B50 This brand new multimedia museum tackles a part of town we all admire but few understand – Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re done oggling the Grand Palace and Wat Po etc, it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of this most hallowed part of the city beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. Wandering its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, communities and traditions into much clearer focus. Learn about its creation in 1782; ancient royal ceremonies; fine performing arts like lakhon nai (court drama); evolving architectural styles and much more. Also includes an observation balcony with views over the old city.

นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

Oddball Museums Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic side. Definitely the most macabre is the Si Quey Forensics Museum, which revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to criminals in the not so old days. The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead, you’re welcome. Out on the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Meanwhile, it’s safe sex all the way at the Condom Museum, which features numerous stimulating exhibits. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among old film sets, 16mm cameras, and startlingly real waxworks of local cinema heroes at the entertaining Thai Film Museum. CONDOM MUSEUM Department of Medical Sciences 88/7 Tiwanond Rd.,Talad Kwan, Muang, Nonthaburi | 02-589-5890-8 ext.99955 | Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm | Free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ถงุ ยางอนามัย ถ.ติวานนท์

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | Free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd.,Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am-5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Surasak

พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3

Si Quey Forensics Museum (‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok Road, Bangkok Noi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02-419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am-4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-4822013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | Free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Royal Park

CHATUCHAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

Stood rapt in front of the Grand Palace? Check. Got your neck clicked at Wat Po? Check. Survived the scam artists? Just about. Okay, now you’ve lost your sightseeing ‘L’ plates it’s time to explore less tourist-thronged addresses.

what next?

1 For an entertaining and informative bike ride around the parts most tourists never reach, give cycle tour company Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) a shout. Alternatively, borrow a bike for free from one of 8 counters scattered around the Old City, courtesy of the Bangkok Metropolitan Association (www.bangkoktourist.com). 2 Volunteering is a great way to give back to this city we all get so much out of. However, don’t know where to look? Well-intentioned expatriative initiative In Search of Sanuk signposts ways you can have plenty of fun, while still helping others (www.insearchofsanuk.com). 3 Already been to Jim Thompson’s to pick up your silk presents for the folks back home? Gorgeous but groaning with tourists? Fortunately it’s not the only stilted teak house oasis in town. Suan Pakkard Palace offers a similarly beguiling set-up off the tourist trail, as does M.R. Kukrit’s House (p.30). Others swear by Amantee (www. amantee.com) out in the northern suburbs.

4 Just across from MBK mall, the Guggenheim-like Bangkok Art & Culture Centre lures in dandyish creative types (and the odd curious shopper) with its mixed-bag line-up of Thai contemporary and itinerant global art. Want to know where the best Thai art is at? Then pop a copy of our Bangkok Art Map into your totebag on your way out (www.bangkokartmap.com).

5 Tour company Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino. com) offers well thought-out, culturally-attuned excursions in and around the capital. Definitely its most intriguing is its two-day rollick through authentic old neighbourhoods and markets reminiscent of Bangkok circa 1910. 6 Housed in a beautifully restored old government building only five minutes stroll from the famous spires of Wat Po, the Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) traces the evolution of the Thai people in a funky, hands-on fashion.Touch-screen videos and interactive gizmos galore replace the usual dusty relics you commonly find and stress the country’s multiculturalism and modernisation. 7 Once you’ve got the city is licked, it’s time to see what marvels lurk just outside it. Popular daytrips close to home include Bangkrachao, a lush peninsula of undeveloped land just across from Bangkok’s Klong Toey district; and Ko Kret, a man-made island in the river famous for its snacking, temples and kilns churning out cheap pottery. See Daytrips (p.37) for more details on both. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different fresh herbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body. Another exclusive treatment is the Shirodhara Indian head massage. This is an ancient theraphy performed by certified therapists. As you lie back a continuous stream of warm oil is poured on the middle of the forehead. The soothing cares of your ‘third eye’ lulls you into a deep sleep and balances the brain and calms the mind.

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different freshherbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body

Breakfast at Lavana

Imagine leaving all the cares of the world behind and spending a slow leisurely morning relaxing in your own private room. Spend the hours lingering over a sumptuous American breakfast after pampering yourself with our exclusive massage treatment. Could breakfast at Lavana’s become your own secret escape? (free breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.-13.00 pm. with any oil massage treatment)

Special Promotion January 2011

FREE breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm with any SPECIAL PROMOTION 1st  31st OCTOBER 2010 oil massage treatment and any oil - 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm. Any oil massage. Free facial treatment massage get free facial treatment - Aroma oil massage 60 min. 800 THB / 90 min. 1,000 THB / 120 min. 1,200 THB - 4 hand aroma 60 min. 1,400 THB / 90 min. 1,600 THB / 120 min. 1,800 09.00 THB from am.- 14.00 pm. - Thai Massage 60 min. 450 THB/ 90 min. 550 THB/ 120 min. 650 THB ALL RETAIL BUY 1 GET 1 FREE - Thai Massage with Herbal Ball 90 min. 850 THB/ 120 min. 950 THB

(30% DISCOUNT ON HOT PAD AND EYE PILLOW)

LAVANA LAVANABANGKOK BANGKOK

No.4 soisoi Sukhumvit 12,Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 No.4 Sukhumvit 12, Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel:Tel: +66(0) mail@lavanabangkok.com +66(0)222294510-12, 2294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com ForFor taxi: ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ุมวิประมาณ ท 12 ประมาณ 100 เมตรอยู นขวามื taxi:ลาวานา ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ขุมวิทข12 100 เมตรอยู ดานขวามื อ ตึดกาใหญ สีเขียวอ ตึกใหญสีเขียว Opening hours: am.-00.00 reception 23.00 pm.) Opening hours: 09.00 09.00 am.-00.00 am.am. (last(last reception 23.00 pm.) Advance ishighly highly recommended Advancebooking booking is recommended 36 sightseeing

bangkok 101

Saraburi

This central province is in full bloom during the month of January. The unofficial gateway to Thailand’s northeast, Saraburi is home to many historically significant sites, waterfalls, and some very sunny fields.

ocated just 108 kilometres out of Bangkok, Saraburi is really simple to reach (see Getting there). And the short distance will give you plenty to sightsee in this nearby province. Your first stop should be Wat Phra Putthabhat in Phra Putthabat. Located 20km out of town towards Lopburi, it is one of the most beautiful and important temples in the region due to what lies inside. In the 17th century during the reign of King Songtham of Ayutthaya, a large puddle of water was discovered that resembled the shape of a footprint. It was declared as the footprint of Buddha and this temple was constructed around it. The enormous footprint, at 5 feet long, is the most popular pilgrimage site in central Thailand. Another temple in this district that’s famous, but for a very different reason is Wat Tam Krabok. In fact, it’s not so much a temple as an internationally known drug rehabilitation centre, which utilises Buddhist meditation, Asian herbal remedies and induced vomiting to cure its self-admitted patients. Over 100,000 people have gone through this program including some western celebrities like Kate Moss’ ex-beau, Brit rocker Pete Doherty, as well as Irish everyman Paul Garrigan, the author of a bangkok 101

compulsive book, Dead Drunk, that pulls back the curtain on life there. Saraburi is also home to many caves which have formed over millenia. From the town center head east to the Khaeng Khoi district and you’ll find Tham Phra Pothisat. Quite popular not only because of its beautiful stalactite formations but mostly due to the bas-relief Buddha image carved onto cavern’s walls. For some food visit the province’s largest district of Muak Lek, 38km east of Saraburi Muang. The food market is very popular and is great for picking up local items like curry puffs, salted or sweetened beef, and other fresh foods. Near the market is the Muak Lek Arboretum, a perfect spot to kick back and laze around in the shade. Also nearby is the Namtok Chet Sao Noi, a long winding stream of waterfalls that stretches for 9 kilometres. This fall has seven levels and also some areas where visitors can rent inner tubes and jump in for a refreshing dip. During this time of year however the main attraction of Saraburi is out in the fields. Even travellers who are just passing through the province on the way to Lopburi will find it hard not to stop by and have a look at the bright dok tantawan (sunflowers) that are in full bloom this month. The stunning flowers cover a field that sightseeing

featured daytrip

stretches 72 square kilometres of purely vibrant photo opportunities. And accompanying them in many places are local food stalls and even elephant rides. The fields are alive around the month of November up until January every year and can be found along the Phattana Nikhom – Wang Muang route. It’s a sight not to be missed, so make sure your cameras are empty when you arrive for this very picturesque experience.

Getting there n From the Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2), buses every 20 mins between 5am-7pm, B70 (02936-2841, www.transport.co.th) n From Hua Lum Phong Railway Station departs every hour estimated 2 hours trip and can take a stop at Kaeng Koy Station and Muak Lek Station. (02-223-7010, www.railway.co.th) 37

Sightseeing

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

1-9 Jan Jim Thompson Farm Tour, Nakhon Ratchasima

1-31 Jan Lopburi Sunflower Festival

If you’re a flower fanatic or budding Van Gogh you’re in clover this month, as endless fields of bright yellow sunflowers are in full bloom in nearby Lopburi province. The perfect location for an outdoorsy daytrip – it’s only an hour and a half’s drive away – locals flock here to see and photograph and roam amidst the tall, sun-drinking sprouters, which usually hang around until February. They’re also blooming over in nearby Saraburi, this month’s Daytrip (p.37).

In 1988, to ensure a steady and reliable supply of raw materials for its silk production, Jim Thompson’s world famous Thai Silk Company invested in its own mulberry plantation and silkworm egg production centre, which came to be known as the Jim Thompson Farm. Normally closed to the public, it opens once a year during the peak of the cool season to give tours during which you can observe up close and personal the full life-cycle of the silkworms and the silk farming process. Other highlights include a tour of the vegetable plots and ornamental plant nursery. B80 adult, B50 children. More info: 02-762-2566; www.jimthompsonfarm.com

7-9 Jan The Royal Trophy, Hua Hin

The fifth edition of the Asia vs. Europe Royal Trophy golf tournament finds Asia captain Joe Ozaki leading the charge against Scotsman Colin Montgomerie and his band of Pan-Euro talent. This year the always closely fought battle takes place at Hua Hin’s Black Mountain Golf Club. For schedules, ticketing information and other details see www.theroyaltrophy.com or call 02-833-5555.

6-9 Jan Phuket International Boat Show

Billing itself as “Asia’s biggest boat show on water,” this annual marine industry showcase is the place to head if you own a boat or are in the market for one. For its four-day duration, Phuket Island’s Royal Phuket Marina will be brimming with brokers showing off the latest luxury yachts and bourgeois sorts swanning about on them. www.phuketboatshow.com 38

13-16 Jan Pattaya International Balloon Fiesta 2011

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No silly, it’s the Pattaya International balloon fiesta! Check out 30 sky-high hot air balloons while you feast on regional food, listen to live bands and partake in lots of other fun airborne activities (kite-flying, remote control plane flying, a parachute competition, etc). Takes place at Thammasat University’s Pattaya Campus and is organised by the Sport Flying Association Thailand; see www.pibf.info for more. sightseeing

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21-23 Jan Bor Sang Umbrella Festival, Chiang Mai

The little community of Bor Sang, just north of Chiang Mai, is often referred to as the “Umbrella Village”, and justly so. During this celebration of the delicately hand-painted saa-paper and silk parasols it churns out, bands will play, and villagers compete to win the award for the year’s prettiest. Nearby San Kamphaeng also gets in on the act with its own handicrafts fair. For more info, contact TAT’s Chiang Mai Office on 053-248-604.

23 Jan Khon Kaen International Marathon

The self-proclaimed “Greatest Marathon of Thailand” takes place again this month, 445km northeast of Bangkok. The full marathon starts at 4:15am sharp, while the less daunting half-marathon, mini-marathon, and 10km Walk & Fun Run will be staggered after. As usual, it starts and finishes at Khon Kaen University’s Golden Jubilee Convention Hall, and the winner will take home some cold hard cash. See www.khonkaenmarathon.com for details on how you can sign up.

21-23 Jan Reggae International Music Festival #6, Chiang Mai

For its six reincarnation this popular r e g g a e festival will decamp from its usual spot in the small Nor thern town of Pai to Chiang Mai’s Huay Tung Tao reservoir. Other than that small detail, however, it’s gonna be a big knees-up as usual, with T-Bone, Teddy Ska and The Superglasses Ska Ensemble, among other acts, performing to a captive audience of rum-and-coke sipping ska heads. Tickets (B500 one day pass, B1,200 3 days pass ) are available at the gate and from www.paireggaefest. com. Call 081-493-1246 for info. bangkok 101

27-28 January Ecotourist Eating Festival, Ranong

If the way to an eco-tourist’s heart is via their stomach, this might just be the smartest tourist drive campaign ever invented. Villagers in La Un District, some 80km northeast of Ranong’s provincial town on Highway 4091, will all pitch in to make a southernstyle buffet that passing visitors can feast on – for free! Well, kinda. All they ask in return is that, aside from just pigging out, you also learn a little about the district’s natural beauty, forest trails and hot springs. Call the district office on 07-7899-058 for information on the festival. sightseeing

Until Feb 28 Hat Yai Lantern Festival, Songkhla

One of Thailand’s quirks is its love of luminous night lights and lanterns, which locals believe evoke the spirit world and use to embellish everything from city streets to shabby restaurants. At this after-dark festival down in the southern city of Hat Yai, this custom reaches its colourful zenith, with themed lanterns drawing from local folklore, Thai festivals, the animal kingdom and even cartoon characters on display. You’ll find them casting an ethereal or cutesy glow over the city’s park from 4pm until 9pm each evening. For more see www.hatyailantern.com or contact TAT’s Hat Yai office on 077-501-831. 39

Sightseeing

island escape

The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa

Simon Ostheimer

PHUKET

Thailand’s largest island has a story to tell

ver been to Junk Ceylon? No? We’ll wager you have. Once marked on maps under this name by 19th century European seafarers, it continues to attract foreign visitors to its shores. Where once they were lured by the promise of trade, then tin mining, these days the island’s main draw is tourism – in all its forms. We are, of course, talking about Phuket. Over on the west coast, the dubious charms of Patong Beach (it’s only one letter away from spelling Patpong for a reason) lure in the single male crowd, who are drawn nightly like moths to the flame by the neon-lit bar signs, ever-flowing cheap alcohol, and promise of hospitable company for the evening. However, Phuket offers a wealth of attractions and areas far away from the well-worn clichés, places where the island’s colourful history is not the distant, forgotten past, but instead a living, breathing part of the present. No more so is this apparent than in the streets of the charming provincial capital: Phuket Town. Its lanes lined with SinoColonial style shophouses, the city’s

architecture will seem familiar to travellers who have spent time in either Penang or Malacca. The link between the three goes beyond the mere structural, as the Chinese immigrants of all three settlements have a shared history, and are collectively known as the Baba Nyonya or Peranakan. The children of many wealthy Phuket Chinese were sent to the Penang capital George Town for a British education, and even to this day links remain between their Thai and Malaysian descendants. While the fortunes of

Phuket receded over time, as the tin that had fuelled the 18th and 19th century boom lost its lustre, the splendid buildings remained, though many of them slowly fell into disrepair. However, in recent years Phuket Town has experienced something of a renaissance, as shown by the appearance of Blue Elephant. The renowned culinary group recently opened its latest cooking school and restaurant in the former Governor’s Mansion, which was described thusly by historian Ping Amranand: “The grandest angmor-

Soi Romanee

sightseeing

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lao [foreign mansion] in Phuket Town, and to many the most distinguished, is the ochre-hued Italianate Phra Phitak Chyn Pracha Mansion.” Already a popular tourist destination, it is just one of many restored properties that are attracting customers. On nearby Phang Nga Road is Siam Indigo, a French-run bistro and boutique that occupies two adjoining 80 year-old shophouses, with their distinctive ‘ngon-kaa-kee’ or fivefoot way, the covered archways that link one building to the next. However, the best example of the town’s unique cultural heritage lies along the narrow Soi Romanee. Despite its small size, this oneway lane is home to the island’s best preserved example of SinoColonial buildings, a fact that has been recognised by the provincial authorities, who recently undertook to bury the unsightly wires that are a constant on most Thai streets. Other landmarks include the Old Phuket Post Office and now Philatelic Museum on Thalang Road (built in 1932, it is the only remaining original government building left on the island); the historic Thavorn Hotel, which houses a fine collection of antiques and old vintage photographs; and the Shrine of the Serene Light; best accessed via a small laneway off Phang Nga Road. Currently undergoing restoration, leave a donation towards these efforts and Shrine of the Serene Light

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then take the small passageway to the left of the temple. You’ll emerge into the back of Wilai’s Restaurant, which serves classic local dishes such as pa-nang moo, a mild coconut milk curry with pork, as well as one of the cheapest Western breakfasts in town. You may actually recognise some of the buildings from the silver screen; the Phuket Government Buildings substituted for the French Embassy of Cambodia in the film The Killing Fields, andthe Luang AnuphartPhuket-Karn mansion was the Phnom Penh American Embassy in the same movie. The On On Hotel, meanwhile, featured in the opening scenes Siam Indigo

n Cook Blue Elephant 96 Krabi Road, 076-354-355; www.blueelephant.com n Eat Kai Jok See Takua Pa Road, 076-217-903 Prego The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Siray Bay, 076-335-600; www.starwoodhotels.com The Circle 8 Rasada Road, 076-221-458 Wilai’s Restaurant Thalang Road, no tel. n Drink Dibuk Place 42 Dibuk Road, 076-221-084 Sanaeha 83-85 Yaowarat Road, 076-218-514; www.sanaeha.com Splash The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Siray Bay, 076-335-600; www.starwoodhotels.com

of Danny Boyle’s 2000 Thailandset backpacker classic The Beach. Lest you think the town is nothing but a living museum though, there are a number of bars, restaurants, shops and galleries where you can remind yourself you’re on holiday. First off, pick up a unique handmade souvenir at Ban Boran Textiles or purchase a beautiful piece of design from the Underwood Art Factory Showroom. Then, sit down for a coffee at The Circle, enjoy dinner at the small yet globally famed Kai Jok See, check out the live music at Sanaeha, and then soak up the atmosphere with a glass of white wine at Dibuk Place. In sum, it may be old Junk, but Phuket has much more to offer visitors than just cheap thrills. There’s an amazing story to be told; you just have to scratch the surface to find it. sightseeing

n Shop Ban Boran Textiles 51 Yaowarat Road, 076-211-563 Siam Indigo 8 Phang Nga Road, 076-256-697; www.siamindigo.com Underwood Art Factory Showroom 49/6 Moo 5, Chalermphrakiat R.9 Road, 076-261-104 n Spa Heavenly Spa by Westin The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Siray Bay, 076-335-600; www.starwoodhotels.com n Stay The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa Siray Bay, 076-335-600; www.starwoodhotels.com 41

Sightseeing

upcountry escape

Loei F

or close to half a century, climbing Phu Kradung has been a rite of passage for many Thais. Open only between October and May, the winter months are the best and most popular times to visit. It covers an area of roughly 350km2, rising 1,360m above sea-level, and was the second location in the country to be designated as a national park. The flat-top of this sandstone mountain features over 60 km2 of amazing natural beauty for you to discover, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waterfalls, cliffs, streams or savannahs. Before you can enjoy all that however, you actually have to get yourselves up to the top, and this arduous feat is a highlight in itself. It is 5.5km from the foot of the mountain to Lang Pae, Phu 42

Kradungâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s summit, and sorry, no cable cars here. The hike can last anywhere from three to six hours depending on your personal fitness.There are a variety of accommodating features along the way for all climbers, however, from food and beverage stalls to a fleet of almost 400 porters available for hire. For just B15 a kilo, these superhuman locals will literally take the weight off your shoulders and carry all your belongings (often 50kg at once) all the way up the mountain. The Wang KwangVisitor Centre is where you will be based.There are various houses for rent but you must book them ahead of time via the Department of National Parks (www.dnp.go.th) or other booking agents (www.thaiforestsightseeing

booking.com). You can also opt to stay outdoors as there is a whole city of tents set up that can accommodate up to six people in one. One tip if you choose to go this route: look for the public bathrooms in the back near the houses, to the left of the restaurants. They are less busy, and feature Western-style toilets, while the much more crowded bathrooms up front do not. Up here you will find shops selling souvenirs, bicycles for rent, as well as rows of restaurants. As the sun sets, make sure that you are at either of these two cliffs: Pha Lom Sak or Pha Mak Dook. Pha Lom Sak is arguably the one with the better view of the sunset, though keep in mind that it is 9km from camp. Pha Mak Dook, only 2km away, is remarkbangkok 101

able in the fact that during November to February you can actually catch both sunrise and sunset in the same spot. Speaking of sunrises, Pha Nok Ann is the most popular point to catch the first glimpses of the sun. You will also witness what will surely be one of the more remarkable sights of your entire trip, a sea of morning fog blanketing the world below you. The national park features many waterfalls most of which are located along one looping trail. Highlights include Penpob Mai Waterfall, named after a champion boxer who discovered it while training in Phu Kradung, as well as Tham Yai Waterfall, which has a large cave behind it and is surrounded bangkok 101

by maple trees that shed bright red leaves during the winter. Once you come down from the mountain, if you still have the energy, there a couple other points of interest in Loei province. Though not as famous, the Phu Hin Rongkla National Park which was used as a hideout by communists from 1967 to 1982 and the Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary, home to over 100 wild elephants, 160 orchid species and dinosaur footprints dating over 120 million years, are definitely worth a visit. Meanwhile, the Phu Ruea Wanothayan Vineyard, or Chateau de Loei, is Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest vineyard and was the first to export wine overseas. Enjoy a drop or two. sightseeing

Getting There: To get to Phu Kradung National Park, take the Bangkok-Loei bus from Mor Chit station. Get off at Pha Nok Khao Village and take a song taew bus to the national park.

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

Jamjuree

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are much more realistic and reasonable than in the over-inflated, fashionable ar t centres found in America, Europe and, increasingly, China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers: stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

art exhibitions

Until Jan 15 Longing For Siam, Inventing Thailand Number 1 Gallery, Silom Galleria B1, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19 | 02-630-3381 | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm | www.number1gallery.com | BTS Surasak Known for engaging site-specific multimedia installations, Sutee Kunavichayanont chalks up his latest bitingly satirical exhibition to perceptions of what it means to be Thai. In Longing for Siam, Inventing Thailand, he parodies the nationalism and patriotism of the 1930s and 40s, when the country was established as a constitutional monarchy under the prevailing spirit of Thai Mai (New Thailand). Until Jan 15 Whose Land? Whose Art? Tang Contemporary Art, Unit B-28 (Basement), Silom Galleria 919/1 Soi 19 | 02-630-1114 | Mon-Sat 11am–7pm (closed public holidays) | www.tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak Coming from a country that lives in the shadow of the Great Wall, it’s of little surprise that these structures are often the focal point in the social architecture of Lin Yilin’s art. Approaching themes associated to the commodification of land, the Chinese artist is erecting barriers at two sites in Thailand; a permanent wall at the outdoor setting of The Land Foundation in Chiang Mai (on Dec 11), and within the gallery at Tang.

Until Jan 30 Tourists Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 02-234-6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm | www.kathmandu-bkk.com l BTS Chong Nonsi With his wickedly satirical eye and colourful sense of humour, Dow Wasiksiri brings unique perspectives to Thai photography. In his latest series, Tourists, Dow looks to Thailand’s economic cash cow: tourism. Turning the lens upon the curious behavioural aspects of travellers, the whimsical photos reveal much about our attitudes to new cultural experiences. This month’s photofeature (p.44) features a selection of shots from the exhibition.

Until Jan 30 Hope in the Dark, Until Jan 30 Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com Young artist Anupong Chantorn is no stranger to controversy. His depictions of scavenging, crowfaced monks drew scorn from Thailand’s Buddhist Council when he won the 2007 Gold Prize at the National Artist Awards. In his latest series of drawings and paintings, Anupong maintains his emaciated figuration to deal with ethical issues of truth, deception, and faith.

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Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Aksra Theatre

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular 600-capacity theatre located by the Victory Monument, with an interior lined with wood carvings, experience hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. This is family entertainment of the refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to watch contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but also an entire arts complex, comprising of classes, residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions: the shows are world-class because of it.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, the performance here is hailed as 'a showcase of Thailand'. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 local performers journey whirlwindlike through seven centuries of storied Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests arrive to experience this spectacle nightly. In shor t, it's a spectacular showcase of eye-popping poignancy.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.87).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

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TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon always fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain. Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre is currently nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting a space of 3,000sqm for displaying exhibitions. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

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Arts

ar ts

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Each month the crate-digging DJ duo behind leftfield luk-thung, molam and Thai funk night ‘Paradise Bangkok’, Chris Menist and Maft Sai, explore the more obscure corners of the Kingdom’s music. Their record label ‘ZudRangMa’ showcases the best of Thai music both old and new, and has a new shop on Thonglor. For more information, check out www.zudrangmarecords.com

hilst western rock’s influence on Thai music is mostly keenly felt in the ‘music for life’ movement spearheaded by Carabao and Caravan, a lesser known figure was pioneering these sounds a good few years prior. His name was Sroeng Santi, who’s career was tragically cut short by a car accident in 1982. His adoption of Western rock idioms whilst formulating them into Thai music was both a homage and entirely original. Prior to being a solo artist he had band called 'The Buffalo' and he would also go on to produce other artists such as The Royal Sprites in the early 80s. “He called his music ‘Luk Thung Underground,’ states radio DJ Dan Buriram, one of the first to push luk thung on the airwaves. “He came up

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with this name himself, not the press. He loved the bass guitar and Marshall amps! He liked Shadow music too. He did a track called ‘Pu Ying Yai’, which means ‘the great person’. When he sang live he would wear a black leather jacket, and t-shirt. At the peak of the performance, he’d take off his shirt and sing ‘Nam Mun Pang‘ (‘Expensive Gasoline’). He would then burn his t-shirt at the same time as singing this track, and sometimes even his instruments! That is why he called himself Luk Thung Underground.” Sroeng Santi’s unique and genre crossing style has made his music a regular fixture at Paradise Bangkok. ‘Nam Mun Pang’ is a Santana extrapolation, that also spawned a peculiar female ‘answer’ record ‘Klad Klan Nam Mun’, by Rayrai Na Koratch. Whilst Santi keeps thing ar ts

paradise found

rough, but on the straight and narrow, ‘Klad Klan...’ slows the tempo down further, splashing druggy riffs over a cow bell lead rhythm section. Our personal anthem, though, is the Black Sabbath referencing ‘Kuen Kuen Lueng Lueng’. The track is taken far beyond being a mere cover of ‘Iron Man’, as Sroeng offers a strange meditation on the waxing and waning of the moon and the sun, before comparing it to the Thai economy with costs of foodstuffs only going up and never coming down! The song is carried along by a tough backbeat that always produces a mild shock for first time listeners. It’s this little documented, but vital strand of Thai music that is featured on our forthcoming Finders Keeper’s compilation ‘Thai? Dai! The Heavier Side of the Luk Thung Underground’. 49

Arts APEX LIDO & SCALA (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด และสกาลา

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.47), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s bordertransgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org. Dine in Bed while watching your favourite movie star plus gourmet popcorn. Held every Monday, movies are screened at 9.30pm. For dinner reservations please call 02-651-3537 or e-mail info@bedsupperclub.com.

! 3 January A King In New York

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า KRUNGSRI IMAX THEATER (world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 Major Cineplex Ratchayothin 1839 Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Mochit, MRT Paholyothin, then taxi | 02-511-3311 เมเจอร์รช ั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน Major Cineplex Sukhumvit 1221/39 sukhumvit Rd., North Klongtan | BTS Ekkamai | 02-3814855 เมเจอร์สข ุ มุ วิท

ใกล้สถานีรถไฟฟ้าบีทเี อสเอกมัย

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF Cinema city MBK

10 January Withnail & I 17 January The Big Lebowski 24 January Le Père Noël est une Ordure 31 January Bed Supperclub’s Creative Director’s Choice 50

The Big Lebowski

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bangkok 101

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stores offer the latest in print, new and used. THAI FOLK WISDOM Tulaya Pornpiriya kulchai & Jane Vejjajiva | River Books | 58pp | B500 Words don’t just describe the world – they also shape it. This is especially true in Thailand, where sage proverbs, passed down from generation to generation, are more generally venerated than in most countries. Anyone interested in discovering them – thus simultaneously improving their grasp of the Thai vernacular and patriarchal mindset – should snap up this meticulous new coffee-table stunner with prose in English and Thai. Pairing notes on 50 common proverbs with eclectic illustrations by top Thai artists, it’s an enlightening or diverting read, depending on your mood. It spans from the intuitive (“riding an elephant to catch a grasshopper”) to the culturally obscure (“tigers eat lying down”). And keeping proceedings from seeming too didactic is a dovetailing story, by SEA Write Award winner Jane Vejjajiva, about the trials of a young girl and her family. In sum, this is a keeper.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

BANGKOK DAYS Lawrence Osbourne | Harvill Secker | 271pp | B650 In this elliptical travelogue, British journalist and flâneur Lawrence Osbourne spends his nights wandering the city, hanging out with old sleazeball westerners, trying to fathom why it is they come here. Duh, the sex? Not necessarily, he suggests. What they’re often seeking here, in “the slutty Cinderella of Southeast Asian cities,” he posits is the tactile interconnectedness Bangkok’s cramped streets and cheap massages provides. It’s a compelling idea and, though Osbourne does the city a disservice by only exploring its seamy twilight side, and is an occasional fabulist (his gigolo experience beggars belief), to his credit he says a lot more about male solitude than he ever does sex.Titillating trash this is not. In fact, we haven’t read anything so incisive, immersive, and downright well-written on low-life Bangkok since Pico Iyer’s Love in a Dutyfree Zone. We were engrossed, start to finish, even if it didn’t always ring true.

reading & screening Greyhound: Basic with a Twist Li-Zenn Publishing | 300pp | B2,400 Thirty years after it brought chic streetwear basics and professional service to Bangkok, this 300-page pictorial arrives tracing the history of one of Thailand’s top fashion brands. For fashionistas intrigued in how Greyhound came good, this hefty, black fabric-backed tome split into three ‘twisting’ sections might just be essential. Not only does it retrace Greyhound’s genesis: from how what started out as a search for a good quality t-shirt grew into a fully-fledged lifestyle brand, to why it’s founders – four creatives with no formal fashion training – called it Greyhound (‘because it’s a sleek, elegant, and noble creature, a man’s best friend”). It’s also packed full of tidbits about the creative process and, best of all, like all their work, an expression of the brand, pairing Mark Farrow-esque typography with artfully-styled, The Facestyle images and a daring, we-did-it-ourway spirit. A bold, fitting twist on the usually formulaic retrospective.

The Overture (Hom Rong) Ittisoontorn Vichailak | 2004 | $22.95 (hkflix.com) Thailand’s 2004 Oscar submission is a gorgeously shot, high-drama version of the musical biopic. Drawing inspiration (if not all the facts) from the life of ranadek (wooden xylophone) master Luang Pradit Phairao, The Overture rattles the staid biopic form with campy tension: training scenarios reminiscing Rocky, a clattery xylophone duel so intense it sets jowls a-trembling and water rippling in a glass, à la Jurassic Park. The film avoids the linear and-then-ism of most biopics by hopscotching between two eras – its hero’s youthful arrogance and his wise old age, when he stood up to World War II-era officials intent on “modernizing” Thailand right out of its traditions. But The Overture doesn’t insist on sickly, isolationist nostalgia – perhaps one of its most wondrous scenes is an impromptu ranad-ek/jazz piano duet. Ebony and ivory indeed. ar ts

PhotoFeature

tourists photography by dow Wasiksiri

amous Thai photographer Dow Wasiksiri is especially well attuned to the contradictions in conventional images of Thailand. Born Thai, but raised in the West, his unique insideroutsider perspective enables him to photograph with a certain detachment, and no small amount of humour, the Kingdom around him. He veers clear of presenting contr ived, idealized images of Thailand, preferring instead to photograph the Thailand he lives and feels, and that reveal the impromptu, unselfconscious behavior both of Thais in their homeland and those who visit it. In his latest photo project Tourists Dow trains this sensitive, observant eye on a new tribe of humans: the millions of foreign visitors who pour into the country each year. Ignoring landscapes and historic monuments, Dow turned his camera instead on the strange customs and dress of his fellow tourists, local and foreign. These colourful, cartoonish candid shots reveal, beyond the need for amusement, their subjects’ yearning to see themselves as the discoverer of new worlds, before heading back to the humdrum struggle of their daily lives. He doesn’t aim to mock, or laugh at – only to spark a knowing smile. After all, we’re all Tourists sometimes. A photo exhibition featuring these and more images runs until January 30 at Kathmandu Photo Galler y (87 Soi Pan, Silom Road | 02-2346700 | www.kathmandu-bkk.com). See more of Dow’s fantastic work at www.dowwasiksiri.com

PhotoFeature

tourists

PhotoFeature

tourists

PhotoFeature

tourists

Food&Drink

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

Tai Thai

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.81). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 60

food & drink

bangkok 101

All Month Sunday Lunch Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Enjoy Japanese seafood at Kisso, international gourmet buffet at Taste, and the chocolate bar at Zest, all for just B1,590 net per person. At the awardwinning Taste, there’s an array of gourmet international dishes to choose from, while lovers of healthy Japanese cuisine can enjoy a choice of sushi, sashimi, tempura, teppanyaki at Kisso. Zest Bar & Terrace then ensures lunch ends on a high note, with devilish desserts such as chocolate espumas in a cone, homemade truffles, and a tuly divine chocolate fountain. 02-207-8000

All Month Sharing is Loving Bistro M, Marriott Executive Apartments

Located on the ground level of Marriott Executive Apartments, Bistro M now offers great sharing style set menus for four, five or six people. The price for four starts at an unbelievable B1,000 for a well crafted six item menus with dessert. That makes it B250 baht per person only. Let your love ones know that you care and have a great time with them at Bistro M – ‘The Mmmmmmm Place to Be. Where Contemporary Meets Authentic.’ 02-302-5265 or 02-302-5555

bangkok 101

1-8 February Chinese New Year Summer Palace, InterContinental Bangkok

To mark the Chinese New Year holidays, the InterCon chefs preparetraditional dishes along with their own specialties. Among the à la carte dishes offered will be Chinese New Year raw salmon yee sang with condiment; double-boiled Snow Frog with red date and glutinous dumpling; and deep-fried crispy Chinese New Year cake with taro. Set menus for gatherings of 10 people – Emperor, Fortune and Wealthy – are priced at B9,888++, B12,888++ and B18,888++. 02-656-0444

All Month Moroccan Festival Crepes & Co.

Indulge yourself by celebrating Morocco’s rich culinary culture, a fusion of African, Arabian and European influences, and one of the most refined and exciting cuisines in the world. Choose from a wide range of salads and appetisers such as merguez sausages, pastilla, briouattes or harira soup; main courses including couscous and lamb, chicken or fish tajines. Then end with sweet delicacies and Moroccan fresh mint tea. Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990; Thonglor Soi 8, 02-726-9398

food & drink

meal deals 18-30 January A Taste of Caviar Déjà Vu, Pullman Bangkok King Power

Executive Chef Marshall Orton presents ‘A Taste of Caviar’ exclusive menu. The luxury set menu (B1,990 nett) includes delights such as sea urchin and caviar martini on shaved citrus ice. Or instead why not enjoy the ‘Caviar on Ice’ special for just B3,999 net for two, which consists of 28g of Imperial Osetra Caviar and two flutes of Louis Roederer Champagne. 02-680-9999

All Month Saturday Brunch Benihana, Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa

Savour a remarkable Japanese culinary adventure with an endless array of live culinary stations serving sushi, sashimi, tempura and ramen noodles, as well as a live teppanyaki show at your table. Make sure you save room for the variety of desserts, both Asian and European. The Benihana Saturday brunch prices are B1,250 per person, or B999 per person, when five or more people dine per table. Add B300 per person for free flow Asahi. 02-476-0022 ext. 1416

Food&Drink

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desserts or savoury mousses are social affair in Thailand. wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Compared to the West, eating is much more of a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independent one; at the dinner table they’re all meant to be shared. 62

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drink

Chicken Green Curry

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong (spicy shrimp soup) Tom kha gai (chicken in coconut soup) Phad thai (Thai-style fried noodles) Mu/gai sa-te (pork/chicken skewers) Som tam (spicy green papaya salad) Yam nua (spicy beef salad) Gai yang (grilled chicken) Phanaeng (curry coconut cream) Kaeng phet pet yang (roast duck curry) Kaeng khiao wan gai (green curry chicken) Phad kaphrao (stir-fried meat with sacred basil) Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts) ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks, including coffee, but there are always some surprises available.Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao (coconut juice) Nam krajeab (rosella flower juice) Nam matoom (bael fruit juice) Nam ta-krai (lemongrass juice) Nam tao hoo (hot soy bean milk) Cha yen (Thai iced tea with condensed milk) bangkok 101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

Chompu

THAI FRUIT (POLAMAI)

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Tua Kiew Tom Nam Taan Here’s one of many Thai dishes whose name serves as a “what” as well as a “how to” at the same. Literally, green beans boiled in sugar, that’s all you need to know about this dish except perhaps that red or yellow beans are sometimes substituted; although the greens ones are the most popular and, by general consensus, the tastiest.

Rose Apple (Chompu)

This fruit, known as the rose or wax apple in English, can easily be mistaken for a pear at first glance due to its similar shape. The skin however is noticeably waxy, and its colour ranges from pink to almost black, with the light green variety being the most commonly found in Thailand, with those from Phetchaburi and Chantaburi provinces being the most famous. The flesh is crunchy though not as firm as a regular apple and has a sweet, sharp flavour, and as with many other local fruits it is very often consumed with a spiced sugar dip. The fruit is a great source for fiber and vitamin C, and is believed to help alleviate fevers and pains, while its seeds have also been known to be effective in treating various ailments including diabetes and diarrhea.

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango.

Somtam Stone Bench Despite being known as one of the most expensive residential streets in the city, Lang Suan actually has many reasonably-priced secrets to share. My personal favourite spot is currently in the sheltered Tonson Market at the end of leafy Soi Tonson,as tucked away inside it is what I think is the best Isaan restaurant in Bangkok. Isaan food is beloved by all Thais because of its unrivalled fresh taste. Popular dishes from the region include somtam (papaya salad), namtok (grilled pork with roasted rice salad) and the ubiquitous sticky rice. These dishes can be found everywhere, but none as good (to my palate at least) as those found here. I call the food stall Somtam Stone Bench, due to its original street side location – now replaced by soaring skyscraper apartments. In fact, after I’ve been out of town for a while, on several occasions I’ve had to call the owner on her mobile phone in order to find out their current location. The knowledge that they might move again means I try to eat at Somtam Stone Bench as much as possible. Every morning, they prep by marinating chicken, chopping papaya and vegetables, and making their signature jaew sauce (a sweet and spicy Laotian chili paste made with chilies and galangal) over the charcoal oven. It was at this stall that I was introduced to tam pa tam dong (‘somtam jungle’), an amazing mix of aromatic vegetables, papaya and jaew. Make sure you also try kai yang (marinated grilled chicken) and pla pow kue (grilled snakehead fish covered with salt). The latter is earthy and punchy, just like the people of Isaan. As the stall is generally packed during lunchtime, go there for dinner instead, when the atmosphere is far mellower and you can mingle with the Thai office workers who stop here for a little after work drinking and dining before heading home. You best hurry though; you never know when they might have to move again. ‘Somtam Stone Bench’ is located in Tonson Market, which if you’re coming from Chidlom is near the end of Soi Tonson on the left hand side. They open Mon-Fri 10am-9pm (closed weekends and holidays).

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

food & drink

Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the famous stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

restaurants

featured

4 GARCONS

restaurant

There’s a long tradition of pop stars, mechanics, teachers, and the like opening restaurants in Bangkok, but when the head chef has a day job as a stomach doctor, there’s at least a certain symmetry. Such is 4 Garcons. It’s billed as a brasserie, but the quilted banquettes, sofas and armchairs and murals of Louis blah blah chairs and crystal chandeliers up the ante. And, while there’s a bar at one end, there are no bar stools. So, the feel is restaurant, rather than boozer with food. We started with rich, caramelised onion soup topped with a good wedge of bread and cheese – a great success – and duck confit, served shredded on a bed of crispy fresh rocket salad. It had well balanced flavours, despite a little too much orange in the sauce, but a sponginess to the duck suggested possible short-cut steaming. Mains were similarly mixed. The house steak frites is a super tender US rib eye, with a medallion of herb butter and fries cooked with skins on, in the wide flat American style, but the ox cheek braised in red wine lacked the slow-cooked depth of flavour and melting softness you normally associate with this dish. To accompany, there’s a fair choice of world wines from B1,100-B4,900, with five each of white and red by the glass, from B210. Save a glass of red for the 20 cheese options, including baked Vacherin, to enjoy with fruit and bread. We plumped for desserts: a tasty, creamy goat’s cheese cheesecake, and tarte au chocolat with a layered filling of dense ganache and a lighter mousse. Both would have been excellent with lighter pastries, but these were heavy and lardy, like they needed cooler handling in the kitchen. There’s a warm feeling to 4 Garcons, but the food is a mixed bag. One problem is expectation – the décor is slightly too ritzy and the prices slightly too high for bistro fare – but it also needs a few tweaks in the kitchen. Nonetheless, the place was busy.

WHERE Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 113, 02-713-9547 BTS Thonglor PRICE $$$ OPEN 11:30am-12:30am

4 การ์ซองส์ ซ.ทองหล่อ 113

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

restaurants

featured

PHUKET TOWN Marked out by a distinctive bright yellow frontage, coloured glass windows and a hand-painted mural of its namesake, Phuket Town stands apart from anything else Thong Lor has to offer for another reason: its food. Run by Phuket native Ketsakorn ‘Kitty’ Kiattikul, the menu reflects the island’s colourful heritage, a mixture of Thai, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, British and French influences – not to mention the Malays, from whom the island takes its name (‘Bukit’ means hill in Bahasa Melayu). A converted shophouse, the restaurant’s exterior resembles a classic Phuket Peranakan home; dwellings known for their ornate touches and SinoPortuguese influence. Pushing in through the small wooden doors, you enter a small space filled with vintage wooden furnishing, seating for 30, and a hand-painted wall-size mural depicting shophouses along Phuket’s Thalang Road. The atmosphere is both WHERE 160/8 Thong Lo, Soi 6, warm and welcome Sukhumvit 55, 02-714-9402 – attested to by the BTS Thong Lo fact that every table OPEN Daily 10.30am-10pm was reserved when PRICE $$ we visited on a Delivery available Thursday night. Interior design aside, you’re only going to keep attracting people with your food, which is where Phuket Town comes up trumps. Although spice levels have been adjusted (read diluted) for Bangkok tastes, the

food & drink

restaurant menu retains a faithful array of southern-style dishes and ingredients. Indeed, to ensure that authenticity is retained, Kitty’s mum – who still resides in Phuket – sends up shipments of hard-to-find fish, herbs, vegetables and spices twice a week. These include the excellent deep-fried sea bream with turmeric (pla sai, B70). Edible from its head to its tail, this crunchy critter is a Phuket specialty; as is their take on khanom jeen nam ya poo (B130), a rich, coconut milk crabmeat curry served with bean sprouts, green beans, cucumber, pineapple, anchovies and deep-fried chillies. Though this is normally served with the full crab claw, the sweet meat is removed prior to serving to cater to the big city preference for convenience. The steamed fish balls (B120) are also a must-try; larger than the street side variety, they go down perfectly with the accompanying hot chili sauce. Finish up with a helping of oh-aew (jellied banana-flour mixed with boiled red bean, ice, and sweet red syrup, B55). Sweet and refreshing, it closely resembles the classic Malaysian dessert, eis cendol. Reflecting on the island’s etymology, it’s a fitting way to end things. Indeed, with an excellent menu and comfortable setting, our only gripe about Phuket Town is that unless you wish to sit in the sterile, upstairs private room, you’ll need to make reservations in advance. It’s a small price to pay for a large taste of southern charm.

ภูเก็ตทาวน์ สุขุมวิท 55 bangkok 101

SERENADE They just keep on coming. Serenade is just the latest upstart to roll up on Thong Lor, an upmarket and ultra competitive restaurant mile that has seen a steady influx of them in the past year (and so become our go-to for exciting upmarket food). A boxy two-storey 80-seater on the corner of the newish Grass lifestyle complex, it’s the first-born progeny of Timber Suwannakoot and Aaron Adler, two plucky young Cordon Bleu trained chefs who became disillusioned with cooking at expensive restaurants they were too poor to eat at. No surprise then that Serenade is firmly aimed mid-range – casual and affordable. Instead of starched white tablecloths and stiff service, Serenade sports a simple modern bistro feel, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows, paint-splattered concrete floors and plump daybeds gracing the loungey al fresco area. The menu of playful modern western is equally laidback, with, instead of coursed dinners, dishes meant to be shared tapas-style. And it’s not super-pricey: order in a few dishes, glass of shiraz or cocktail or two, and you should each have taxi money left from B1,000. That’s good value given the quality of cooking offered, even if it is still a work-in-progress (the upstairs was being remodeled on our visit) and we weren’t bowled over by everything we tried. The grilled longan, feta and rocket salad (off the vegetarian and vegan section), was a striking opener, the exotic sweetness of the translucent Thai fruit marrying surprisingly well with the welldressed rocket and bumps of strong cheese. Less successful was the penne pasta with three cheese sauce and topped with roasted peanuts. While the pasta was well done, the glutinous richness quickly became cloying, even when shared between two of us. For mains, we opted for the grilled Kurobuta Berkshire pork collar (B480) – and didn’t regret it. Coated in a herby, buttery confusion of mushroom duxelle and mustard sage cream sauce, it was hearty and filling; the slow-cooked pork from WHERE 264/1 Grass Thonglor Japan satisfyingly crisp on Complex, Sukhumvit Soi 55 the outside, soft and flaky (Soi Thong Lor), 02-713-8409, inside. The grilled cobia fish www.serenadebkk.com with smoked paprika buerre BTS Thonglor blanc (B285) meanwhile PRICE $$ was as light, white and flaky OPEN Mon-Thu 11.30am-2.30pm, as a good snowfish, if a 5pm-11pm Fri-Sun 4pm-1am pinch too salty. Afterwards, we skipped dessert (lemon cheesecake with marinated fruits, etc) in favour of one more Antiquado (a refreshing blend of cachasa, elderflower and lemon; B260) off the decent cocktail list. Serenade still has a way to go before it’s firing on all cylinders, and some of the less successful experiments need refining, but this is a slick, casual place to lounge away an evening with your armcandy or pals. Its success is by no means assured – Thong Lor is a notoriously hard nut to crack – but it’s certainly got all the ingredients for it: competitive prices, hip looks and, above all, talent. Lunchtimes are a good option, a three course menu starting at B240.

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เซเรเนด สุขุมวิท ซ.55

bangkok 101

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Food&Drink

restaurants

HOME RUN featured

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Home Run covers all the bases. Located along the ‘Green Line’ – the alternative soi route that runs north of Sukhumvit – its bold blue signage looms large over passing cars. Inside, a bright, two floor bar and grill houses a pool table, a row of stools and tables, and, as you might expect, big screens playing classic baseball films back-to-back (Kevin Costner and Tim Robbins were squaring up in Bull Durham when we arrived on a Saturday lunchtime). Upstairs is a Goodfellas-esque dining room, with leather upholstered chairs, white tablecloths, and framed baseball photos covering every possible wall space. Available for private functions, it recently hosted what management describes as “the mother of all Thanksgiving feasts.” The substantial holiday helpings are reflective of the general portion sizes at Home Run – authentic American-style servings, we assume. As in any stateside bar, your meal should begin with an order of jumbo jalapeno poppers (hollowed out peppers stuffed with cheese and spices, then battered and deep-fried, B150) and hot Buffalo wings (B160). Fried, crisped and coated in spicy sauce, the latter is a great way to warm up for the main event: the signature Home Run burger (B239) and chilli cheese dog (B239). It goes without saying that the juicy, homemade patty is a delicious mouthful, though – as with everywhere in Bangkok – we wish the bun was big enough to cope with it. No complaints with the dog though, the perfect accompaniment to the action on TV. There are plenty of other classics to choose from, as WHERE 253/2 Soi Sukhumvit 31, well as a number of more Klongton Nua, Wattana, formal dishes such as the 02-258-6250; ‘ultimate’ pork chop (B340) www.homerunbangkok.com. and scampi (garlic buttered OPEN Daily 11am-1am. shrimp, B695). If you’re still PRICE $$ hungry, desserts include the New York cheesecake (B220) and double fudge ice-cream cookie (B220). Then, as satisfied as a manager sitting on a five run lead, sit back and watch as Costner builds his Field of Dreams… The lesson here is: if you build it, they will come.

โฮมรัน สุขุมวิท 31

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bangkok 101

featured

SHANGHAI 38

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It might not be the newest, but the Sofitel Silom hotel’s Chinese restaurant is still one of the city’s classiest, looking every inch the 1930s-in-Shanghai throwback. Plush carpets, lacquer paintings, hefty ornamental vases languishing under tall ceilings all homage that enduring stylistic fad that was art deco. Aside from being the sort of place you could imagine Gong Li sauntering in to, perhaps to sing a ditty beside the grand piano, Shanghai 38 also has another visual trump card, one that only heightens the sense of drama – a knockout city view. Past a floorto-ceiling plate glass window on the left side of the restaurant, the city glowers beneath you and shards of the Chao Phraya River shimmer in the distance. Chef Jovi’s menu of elegantly plated and presented modern Cantonese pairs well with this dramatic setting, a setting that’s accompanied by a female musician plucking the gu-zheng, a traditional Chinese string instrument, in the evenings (Tues-Sun only). He’s worked some of the most esteemed hotels in Southeast Asia, including the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, and Chiang Mai’s Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, and it shows, his menu deftly walking the fineline between adventurous and cliché. We kicked off with a vented wooden platter of dim sum – moreish, steamed to perfection – and drunken chicken with chilli sauce. Cantonese comfort food is the best way we can think of to describe the latter. Moist tender chicken, soft translucent rice noodles and a pleasant, slow-burning spiciness – it was a real stand-out.

bangkok 101

More unusual was the delicate Chinese spinach with crab meat soup. Dark green, with flakes of tender flesh, it had a fresh and cleansing ping to it that had us trying to place the hidden ingredient (ginger it turned out). After this palate cleanser, three scallops came wrapped in hollowed out cucumber and drizzled in vivid orange halibut roe. Though not our favourite dish of the night – that was the orgiastic mango pudding drizzled in raspberry sauce that followed – we savoured the satisfying crunchiness of the cucumber against the soft fleshiness of the scallops. Overall, service was as sharp as you’d expect for such a rarified atmosphere (staff approach your table only when signaled, to deliver dishes or top up your pot of brewed jasmine or oolong tea), but the prices considerably lower. For dinner you have a choice of a la carte or set menus, while lunchtimes are all about the allyou-can-eat dim sum – and that WHERE Level 38, Sofitel Bangkok captivating view, Silom, 188 Silom Road, Bangrak of course. OPEN 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm

รร. โซฟิเทล สีลม

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PRICE daily B692, Sat-Sun B927 (with Traditional Peking Duck) 69

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Food courts Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. Check out these shopping mall favourites CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on around B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am-9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jam-packed with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish). Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but you’re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ain’t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am-10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing.

River Dining Cruises

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

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bangkok 101

Neighbourhood Nosh: Phra Athit Road Santi Chaiprakarn Park Ph

Chao Phraya River Phra Athit Pier

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Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

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urving between the river and the tourist sprawl of Khao San Road, Phra Athit is one of our favourite roads in the city. We love nonchalantly sipping coffee in its kooky shophouse cafés or enjoying the river breezes as backpackers practice their capoiera moves in the park. Then there’s the food: there are more yummy hole-in-the-walls on this historic, treeshaded strip than a stomach can handle, making repeat visits a big Bangkok must. Approaching from the Banglam phu Road end, the first eatery of note is Café Primavera [1]. Featuring tables set with checked linens, it’s a moody little Italian joint serving sizeable thin crust pizzas and al dente pastas; a nice place to while away an hour while you munch bruschettas, sip coffee and kick back to jazz. Further down is Guay Jub Yuan [2]. A bare shophouse with Thai signage and tables that spill onto the narrow street, we’ve not eaten here yet but it was doing a roaring trade with locals the last Saturday we walked by. What do they serve? Guay Jub, or Vietnamese-style rice noodles. Next door is Pua Kee [3], a Chinese Thai joint where cheap dishes like khao na gai rajchawong (rice topped with stir-fried chicken, mushroom and bamboo shoot in a sticky soy sauce) are served in a spacious, retro dining room; again popular with Thais. Walk down, towards the Phra Sumen Fortress on your right, and you’ll find Joy Luck Club [4] (tiny bangkok 101

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Roti Mataba

Thai restaurant) and the Mae*Ny [5] (grungy bar) next to it. Like most of its artsy twentysomething customers, Mae*Ny doesn’t really kick into gear until sundown, when its multi-coloured streetside tables groan with booze and plates of gap klaem (beer snacks). Just across from the fortress is a four-tabler of Lilliputian proportions: Mister Pas [6]. Inside, a girlfriendboyfriend duo rustles up international dishes (think shrimp and spinach quesadillas and Hawaiian chicken bacon burgers) right in front of you. Good, earnestly cooked tucker. Swedish furniture and concrete walls hung with art lend it more interior flair than most. Next door is esteemed bakery, Ann’s Sweet [7], where a local Thammasat uni student or two can usually be found getting their cheesecake fix. Beside it is the most guidebook-plugged eatery in the whole city: Roti Mataba [8]. Why so much love? Simply put, its Indianstyle flatbreads, prepped live and served with pungent southern curries, are divine. Join the queue then tuck in.

Saffron

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Further down, in a charming colonial house within the grounds of the old Baan Phra Athit complex, Coffee & More [9] serves what it says on the tin. What’s with the fence netting and jumpy bodyguards? This complex is currently home to the controversial Manager media group. Out on the river-facing side is a different ilk of eatery from the slim shophouse sort: namely, Aquatini [10]: a nice al fresco terrace belonging to a small hotel and with a so-so menu of international and Thai. Good for a riverside sundown. Back on the street, another shophouse parade presents yet more eating choices, as if you needed them. Our pick of this lot includes Papaya Salad @ Phra Athit [11] with its solid Isaan staples (som-tum, tom saep soups, laab, etc); Rakk [12], an attractive little Thai restaurant; and Saffron [13], another long-standing cake shop that bakes its selection fresh each day on-site. Plowing on, Korean Namoo [14] makes up for its shambolic looks with a B300 Korean buffet; and Hemlock [15] is Phra Athit Road’s most elegant restaurant by far. Expect atypical Thai food (try the meang kam and khao hor bai bau and you’ll see what we mean), art exhibitions and a Mediterranean feel suited to cheap yet cosy dates. Thirsty? Peppered among this delectable confection are all manner of boho student haunts where you can sink suds with mop-haired arts students from the nearby Thammasat university. Enjoy a cold drink or two.. 71

Food&Drink

restaurants Thai JUST ONE (map C4) 58 Soi Ngam Duplee (Sathorn Soi 1), Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumpini | 02-679-8033 | 10am-11pm |$ Intrepid eaters in Thailand are frequently face with the challenging choice between décor and dining – either a trophy restaurant with stunning looks but mediocre food, or a repast fit for the gods served up in a decidedly less-than-divine space. Luckily, Just One isn’t looking to just coast on its atmosphere. The perfect romantic restaurant for a special visitor, Just One is set in what looks like an enchanted garden – a giant, gnarled tree towering over outdoor tables, and an airy, almost greenhouse-like indoor space. Food is polite Thai – fresh, with a low chilli factor for tender tongues. With its sensitive spicing, wide-ranging menu, and dreamy look, Just One might be too timid for intrepid food crusaders, but is perfect for outof-towners who may have touchy palates, or those who seek cuisine that suits a serene atmosphere.

จัสวัน ซ.งามดูพลี

Just One

SALATHIP (map B4) Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok, Soi Wat Suan Plu New Road, Bangrak | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-236-7777 | 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$$ Three dark teak salas, paths lit by giant candles, costumed celestials prancing beside your table… all against a five-star, shimmering riverview backdrop. Salathip’s mythical and romantic look was the work of local landscaper extraordinaire Bill Bensley, and, when it was completed back in early 2009, came with a new menu to match. Not-too-tame, nottoo-feisty, it blends textbook dishes like massaman nua curry and gaeng som soups with jazzier offerings. Think DIY starters like tup tim fish: parcels of crisp fish coupled with kale leaves and shallots, ginger, chilli

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and dried coconut condiments. Or the punchy som tum rock-n-roller, Bangkok’s only all-singing, all-dancing papaya salad (the silk-clad staff shake all its component parts together in a container while singing a special som tum song). Service is ever-so gracious, and even buttoned-up businessmen seem to love the refined Thai theatrics, especially Hanuman the Monkey’s showboating. Don’t forget to save space for the sweet sticky rice with custard and Thai tea icecream, a deliriously good dessert they should patent this instant, before some upstart grabs it. Another word of advice, call three-days in advance to reserve the much sought after front-row riverside seats – no, really

รร.แชงกรีลา ติดกับสถานีรถไฟฟ้าสะพานตากสิน

bangkok 101

Baan Thai Suk 16

BAAN THAI SUK 16 186 Sukhumvit 16 | BTS Asoke | 02-6632329 | www.baanthai 11am-11pm | $ A mini-oasis of old-fashioned Thai hospitality, style and food located in the heart of an area with little time for nostalgia – busy, trafficsnarled Asok. Open for almost a year, this tranquil golden teakwood house pairs indoor and outdoor seating spaces, with chunky wooden furniture, and a menu of simple Thai cooked by a chef from the northern Lanna region. Starters to try include the excellent tod mun pla (fish cake) and classic Thai beer snack, moo dad

bangkok 101

diaw (fried sun-dried pork). More unusual is signature goong Baan Thai: a plate of five raw prawns pinned together, using cocktail sticks, with salmon, lemon, mint, and slivers of mandarin and served with a spicy nam jim dipping sauce. Elsewhere, the menu offers those dishes you see everywhere, like kai phat mamuang himmapaan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts) and panaeng kai (chicken red curry), as well as many you don’t. Try the piquant kaeng som cha-om goong (sweet and sour soup with acacia omelet and shrimp). The atmosphere throughout, from the separate dining rooms to the tropical terrace, is homey, heartwarming even, making this a good spot for a Thai meal with character and soul.

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International Café Ice (map C4) 44/2 Pipat Soi 2 | 02-636-7373 | BTS Chong Nonsi | Mon-Sat 10.30am – 2pm, 5pm-10.30pm| $$$ Wong Kar Wai would love this seductive galleria restaurant just off Sathorn Road. Hell, he could even film one of his ultra-cool art-house movies here. It’s a sprawling threestorey shophouse where bohemian sorts dine beside hordes of for-sale modern art, sculpture, European antiques and ornate Chinoise

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Café Ice

flourishes, and crackling gramophone jazz lends an air of 1930s Shanghai. Find your spot in the nook-filled interiors (ours: the snug 2nd floor with its wall-mounted bronze Buddha hands); or step onto the sultry openair terrace to sip wine amid the chorus of evening cicadas. Does the food – a combination of Thai, Italian, French and Mediterranean – play second fiddle to the atmospherics? In a word, no. Portions are huge, flavour’s forceful, even if the service is a bit slow. The soft shell crab salad Olivier includes a lush, parmesan-dusted mountain of organic veg and a boat of pleasingly piquant balsamic. And, though B350 is exorbitant for a pad thai, here it does star huge Andaman prawns and a tasty tamarind sweetness to great effect. You’re paying a premium for the setting, yes – but, then, rarely is it a film-set in the making.

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Food&Drink French Café Tartine (map C3) 4 Athenee Residence Retail Space, Soi Ruamrudee | BTS Ploenchit | 02-1685464| www.cafetartine.net | Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sunday brunch 8.30am-2pm | $ Perrier-quaffing Francophiles have been flocking to this bright, Parisianstyle sidewalk café on Soi Ruam Rudee ever since it opened last year. Why do they love it so? The creamy, old world-style interior filled with close-knit pine tables and a bustling counter certainly helps, being one of the more elegant beat-the-heat spots in town. The aproned co-owner and manager, Agathe, greeting arrivals in French adds to the charm too. But no, it’s the pithy menu of no-fuss French baked fare – croissants, quiches, salads, sandwiches etc – that has won over everyone from pram-wheeling expat wives and office workers to ravenous journos like ourselves. Tuck into their cheesy French onion soup served in crock-pot, before hunkering down on an assertively-flavoured sandwich – each one a whole freshbaked baguette served with green salad. Our pick: the Poulet Chevre – marinated chicken with strong goat’s cheese and black olives. The café also offers aperitifs and, if you’re in a rush, everything is available to-go (though Agathe’s right, the hot and runny croque monsiers and such

Le Café Siam

like don’t travel well). Café Tartine is also open for Sunday brunch, when the lone long pine table, perfect for accommodating a Ricard-sipping family and friends, really comes into its own.

แอทธินี เรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

Le Café Siam 4 Soi Sriaksorn, off Chua Pleng Rd | 02671-0030 | www.lecafesiam.com | TueSun 6pm-11pm, Friday brunch 12pm onwards | $$$ Chef Paul Quarchioni has some Bangkok history, from the short

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lived but highly regarded Hendricks to his stint at Le Normandie, in the Oriental hotel. He returned in 2009 and bought Le Café Siam, which had always lacked a kitchen to match its very elegant setting. The 1920s Thai house in its garden of palm trees on a quiet back lane whisks you to a different place and time. The old timber frames with their trapezoid arches are well served by tasteful reproduction screens and cabinets. A mix of lamps – flea market cut glass and Asian silks – cast a muted orange glow around the seven-table room.

bangkok 101

Outside are a few more seats on the terrace, and upstairs a lounge for cognacs, desserts and private parties. The food is classic French with a few Euro twists served on a daily changing menu. Steamed seabass with caviar sauce; deep rich creamy lobster bisque; seared scallops with chorizo; lamb fillet with pommes purée and sugar snap peas – all meats perfectly cooked; sauces delicious. A couple of dishes have imported heavyweight products like Maine lobster and wild pigeon, otherwise the pitch is towards sensible prices.You could get out with three courses for B1,200 nett.

เลอ คาเฟ่ สยาม ซ.ศรีอักษร

Venezia

Indian Indian Hut (map B4) 311/2-5 Suriwong Rd, opp Manohra Hotel | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-6357876 | www.indianhut-bangkok.com | 10.30am – 11pm | $$ Far more than just a potentially libelous name, the 12-year-old Indian Hut has been at the forefront of the city’s gradual warming to Indian cuisine and a serial winner of Thailand Tatler’s coveted Best Indian Restaurant Award. Everything from the cardamom seeds to the turmeric and Kingfisher beer is shipped in from the subcontinent, a policy that gives their robust, consistently delicious Northern fare an authentic edge. Dishes come in generous, meantto-be-shared portions – the slow marinated chicken tikka is a falloffthe-bone delight, the lamb rogan josh satisfyingly tender, the naan breads and paneer hard to fault. They also serve Jain (no onion, garlic or roots), Rajasthani (on request) and IndianChinese food. Oh, and don’t miss the smooth, scrumptious mango lassis. Encased in a plush, all-white dining room replete with white linen table clothes and staff in dickie bows, this is a curry-house with class. Still, no one’s going to begrudge you a satisfied belch. In fact, the food here demands it.

อินเดียนฮัท ถ.สุรวงศ์ ตรงข้ามรร.มโนราห์

bangkok 101

Italian VENEZIA (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02254-6655 | www.veneziabkk.com |10:30am–2:30pm, 5:30pm–12.30am | $$$ Sandwiched between Bed Supperclub and Temples Irish Bar, Venezia is an authentic Italian restaurant with a modern classic look and menu. Ingredients here are a healthy mix of local and imported produce, while the wine list is resolutely Italian - as it should be. Excellent starters include rocket salad with porcini mushrooms and very fresh prawns, and a variation with foie gras. For main courses, a real standout is the cod in white wine sauce, while the lamb shank and also worthy of praise, which at Venezia comes with amazing mashed potatoes, prepared Italian-style with olive oil and parmesan cheese. For dessert, the baked ice cream and raspberry compote comes highly recommended and should be enjoyed alongside some of chef Vito’s special limoncello… and an espresso, of course. Very reasonable business lunches are also available, including a wonderful deal on the excellent wood-fired pizzas, which can be had from as little as B180.

เวเนเซีย สุขุมวิท ซ.11 ใกล้เจเจแมนชั่น

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Food&Drink

loaded burritos) livens up a menu of sturdy standards. Do yourself a favour and start out with Mexican chicken wings which are smothered in tang and should sharpen your appetites for a sizzling plate of chicken and beef fajitas. The smoking strips come with flour tortillas, Spanish rice, cheese and plenty of extras which, when combined, made for a pretty satisfying feast.

ชาร์ลีย์ บราวส์ สุขุมวิท 11

Café de Laos

Isaan Café de Laos (map C4) 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | daily 11am-2pm , 5pm-10pm | $ So urbane is the globetrotting gourmet who knows their tom kha from their tom yum, and even enjoys a fresh slice of durian. We’ve seen them, the groups of Thai diners scrutinizing the dishes on their table, discussing ingredients, tasting cautiously – and then smacking their lips, digging in, the feasting only interrupted by big satisfied grins. These Thais are on a culinary expedition into Northeastern Thailand, the Isaan, bordering on Laos (hence the name), home of som tam (spicy papaya salad), minced larb dishes and sticky rice. Some call the food’s fiery, simple nature peasant, but we prefer unadulterated. A warm colonial house (and its cute terrace) is the perfect setting for a dizzying gastronomic trip among almost forgotten, often neglected dishes. Some sound adventurous, but this is the ideal place for tongue somersaults.

คาเฟ่ เดอ ลาว สีลม ซ. 19

Mexican Charley Brown’s (map D3) 1/23 Sukhumvit 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-2215 | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, Mon 5pm-11pm| $$ That Sukhumvit Soi 11 has been transformed into one of the city’s most cosmopolitan entertainment streets has been well documented, not least on these pages, and there’s no doubt that one of the most interesting parts is the little sub-soi that snakes around by Cheap Charlie’s bar. Sitting in amongst the Indian, Spanish and Thai restaurants is Charley Brown’s, one of the capital’s longest running Tex-Mex eateries, and one of the best places to get a dose of tried and trusted Americana. State number plates and classic car parts cling to the walls and late 80s radio-rock pipes through the air.Yes, it’s kitschy; but that’s not always such a bad thing. In fact, it’s kind of comforting. After all, who doesn’t yearn for a plate of nachos supreme and a good frozen Margarita from time to time? Free chips and salsa are a nice touch, and the weekend specials board (look out for snapperfood & drink

southern thai Mallika (map C3) 3 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monyment | 02-248-0287 | 10am – 10pm | $ Should you dare to try it, you’ll discover that Southern Thai cuisine offers a brave new world of complex, pungent, searing hot and above all distinctive flavours. Run by a family from Chumporn – a province in the deep south – this quaint yellow house on tasty-restaurant-studded Soi Rangnam is one of the best places in town to give it a trial (by fire). Start yourself off with something mild, like the dok kajon fai dang: a stir-fry starring flecks of pork and a crunchy fern-like vegetable. Or the pla samret tod mamuang, a deep-fried fish with an out-of-this-world spicy mango dressing. Not hot enough for you? Here are three dishes that push the spice-o-metre up to overdrive: the khua kling nua (fried beef in spicy paste with kaffir lime leaves), the gaeng luang (turmeric-yellow curry), and, the most tongue-scouring but gratifying dish we tried, the gaeng dtai pla (a rich, complex, maroonred bamboo & pumpkin curry). Also interesting here is the goong pad kapi sataw: a strong-tasting stir-fry pairing juicy prawns with fermented shrimp paste and green, bitter beans. Note that dishes for foreigners will probably be less assertively spiced than they are for locals; so for the full incendiary rocket blast brush up on your Thai and prepare for lift-off.

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bangkok 101

bangkok 101

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

Peony House

tea

featured

Bangkok, for all its din and squalor, is still capable of the odd serene moment. And nowhere is this truer than when you're plonked on a plump sofa, cradling a calming cuppa inside one of the standalone teahouses that have sprouted up around the city in recent years. One of our unsung favourites, Peony House, is a dainty little daydream in white, a narrow but charming space mere minutes stroll from the mercantile madness that is Silom. Soft white walls, peony paintings (by the owner’s grandma), faux-Victorian flourishes – it’s as twee as little Lucy’s dollhouse. But it works. Plus, out back, there’s a leafy garden where, on cool days, you can cosy up with your copy of The Joy Luck Club, and beyond it a flowery gallery plastered in Sino watercolour landscapes and portraits, all available for purchase. With all this, you could easily come here, sip mineral water and still leave feeling soothed; but you’d be missing out. There are 38 varieties of tea available, 18 from China, 18 blended teas from Germany, and two from Japan for good measure. And if slurping on sumptuous sounding brews like Madame Butterfly (a rapturous blend of green tea, sunflower blossoms and peach) and Vanilla Romance doesn’t tantalise your taste buds, there’s also filter coffee from Nespresso and Lavazza. Cakes, like the white chocolate cheesecake, are the rather enticing cherry-on-top.

พีโอนี เฮาส์ ศาลาแดง ซ.1

food & drink

WHERE 132/3 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-235-5369 BTS Sala Daeng OPEN Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm PRICE pot of tea B65-110 77

Food&Drink

brunching

runching is big business in Bangkok, with both family-friendly and adults-only offerings to choose from. However, no matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the city serves up something to suit all tastes. Here we sample some of the best.

Stand Alone Brunch Venues

Lavish Hotel Brunch Buffets ■ COLONNADE

■ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BANGKOK Four seasons Hotel Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd | 02-250-1000 | BTS Ratchadamri | Sundays 11:30am-3pm | B2,350++ (for adults and B1800++ for children)

featured

RANG MAHAL

brunch

Most hotel brunches in the city are set inside buffet-oriented restaurants that focus on offering the widest array of choices. This often means that quality is sacrificed for quantity. Rang Mahal’s Sunday spread, however, narrows down the variety to focus on one single cuisine – Indian – while maintaining the bottomless qualities of a buffet. Elevated high above Sukhumvit Road, this white tablecloth restaurant comes top of practically every list of best Indian restaurants in town. Your main concern here should not be the quality of food coming out of the kitchen, but how much of these rich, creamy curries and aromatic freshly-baked flatbreads you can actually down in one sitting. WHERE Rembrandt Hotel, 26th Start your sub-continental feast by F19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (map D3) crunching on papri chat, fried dough BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit, with tamarind chutney, before making 02-261-7100 your way to some of the heavier and OPEN Sundays 11am-2:30pm hotter fare, like prawn jheenga masala PRICE B850 / B1,390 and lamb rogan josh. While the large includes wine platter of tandoori and seafood may begin to fan your carnivorous flames, it’s the shwarma stand with its large hunk of spit-fired chicken that will set you ablaze. Douse the heat with a tall glass of refreshing sweet lassi, and close with a diabetes-inducing treat, gulab jamun, a traditional Indian dessert consisting of fried milk dough bathed in a generous serve of sugary syrup

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food & drink

bangkok 101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B765net, Lunch 990net, Dinner B1,295net ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

bangkok 101

all you can eat

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

featured

Espresso

buffet

It’s a first for Bangkok – and hopefully not the last. This buffet on the mezzanine of the InterContinental Hotel has a unique concept: in addition to the usual free-forall, small entrees are also brought round to your table for sampling. Our encounter with Espresso (all swooping low ceilings, circle motifs and lounge jazz drifting up from the lobby) saw our table being laden with a loaf of piping hot rye bread, and lightly charred foie gras, among other surprises. As novel and convenient as this is, laps of the fort-like food stations are still a must. Taking it from the top, appetizers span crisp DIY salads, sushi and chilled seafood, with our fave the piquant grilled eggplant, zucchini, artichoke and kalamata olive salad. Gamboling gamely on, at the next a clutch of ready-to-go meat and seafood dishes hem in a sizzling openkitchen. Don’t fancy the sublime grilled duck breast & fennel with black berry? Then get chef to knock you up a plate of pan-fried goose liver instead! A last offers dim-sum and made-to-order thai noodles and teppanyaki, which came out a touch salty on our visit. Still, with so many standouts – not least WHERE InterContinental two groaning dessert stations, one featuring a Bangkok, 971/973 Ploenchit live crepe counter – this is but a minor gripe. Rd (map C3) BTS Chit Lom, Go on Sunday for the full onslaught, including 02-656-0444 Alaskan king crab. And whatever you do, OPEN noon-2:30pm, 6pmdon’t skip the Summer Fruit Panna Cotta, 10:30pm PRICE B930 a berrylicious sweet now riding high on our (lunch), Sat-Thu B1,400 dessert Hall of Fame shortlist. (dinner), B1,883 (Sunday) รร.อินเตอร์คอนทิเนนทัล ถ.เพลินจิต

food & drink

Food&Drink

sweet treats

Pandora

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Combining experience, passion and creativity, Pookie, the owner and baker behind cupcake chain Pandora, has concocted the perfect sweet treats for Bangkok. The Swiss Chocolate cupcake, for instance, reminds of a first kiss: smooth, soft and extra rich; traits that also describe the bestselling Red Velvet: chocolate mixed with cream cheese. The Hummingbird, meanwhile, is a combination of sweetness and light, with pineapple and banana filling topped with cream cheese and sparkling sugar – perfect for the little princess WHERE 3/F Siam Center at home. That’s not to say this shop is strictly for (BTS Siam); 5/F The Emporium ladies only though; gentlemen can also indulge their (BTS Phrom Phong); 7/F Central cupcake cravings with the likes of the Blueberry Food Hall, Central World (BTS Bush, Green Tea or Dark Knight – a chocolate and Siam, BTS Chidlom); The Avenue brownie homage to Batman. For caffeine addicts, Chaengewattana; we particularly recommend the Irish Coffee – the www.pandorabakeshop.com coffee cake with coffee butter cream topping is a PRICE B75 each perfect pick-me-up. In sum, although Pandora takes its name from the woman who let evil into the world, this store gives off only good thoughts – leaving a rather sweet taste in the mouth.

แพนโดรา สาขา สยามเซ็นเตอร์ ชั้น3

food & drink

bangkok 101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The popular nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either.

■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare.

Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you.

■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you find yourself around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.100) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Enjoy garden dining amidst colonial architecture, from a menu that serves a selection of Thai and Western dishes. Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www.tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion dishes like curried crab crêpes.

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Though it may not be as smooth as silk, the Thai and International food is fine.

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drink

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drink

wine

WINE PUB For a wine bar that’s as easily overlooked as an old speakeasy – it’s dark, windowless and hidden at the back of the five-star Pullman Bangkok King Power – the Wine Pub sure does pack them in. For example, Friday nights in this swish establishment are rammed, its intimate booths and tables filled with classy grown-ups soaking up the moody ambiance and DJ-spun lounge tunes. What’s luring them in? Some of the best value food and wine promotions in town that’s what, from Monday’s Black Mussel night (B990 including two glasses of house wine) to Wednesday's Coq au vin (B990), and Saturday’s very popular, all-you-can-eat tapas with bottle of wine (B990). These inventive offers, available from 6pm-10pm, have won over the city’s bon viveurs, not just because the vino and grub is up to snuff, being of a good provenance, but also because those prices are straight-up. Everything here is priced net, without the crafty “++’ ' (service charge WHERE Pullman Bangkok King and government tax) mark up – always Power Hotel, 2nd Fl, 8/2 a sore point at settle up time. Highly Soi Rangnam BTS Victory recommended is the Mediterranean Monument, 02-680-9999, www. tapas tree, a selection of 18 hot and pullmanbang kokkingpower.com cold tapas dishes hailing from Spain, OPEN Daily 6pm-2am Italy, North Africa and Greece (B990). Alongside a sculpture-like metalwork rack filled with these new-fangled treats, it’s 3 glass wine flight features a fruity Sauvignon Blanc and robust, full-bodied Chiraz, both from France. Serious quaffers should also direct their attention toward the striking central glass cabinet loaded with over 100 new and old world bottles, including 20 sold by the glass.

รร.พูลแมน กรุงเทพ คิงพาวเวอร์ ซ.รางน้ำ ถ.พญาไท

food & drink

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Discover more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

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bangkok 101

food & drink

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Soi Cowboy (between sois 21 & 23). And voguish but amount of options – so much more than just the affordable hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. whisky-sippin’ urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot A night out here can easily have you flitting between sois of Thong Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.99) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.98), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.88. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.88), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.86) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is – Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 84

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

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TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 Q Bar

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am With its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

nightlife

bangkok 101

Calypso

Demo

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

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808 (map D3) RCA, Block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Praram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on which superstar is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | 6pm-2am This boutique club, bar and lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For more details on events and regular updates, check Glow’s very cool and up-to-date website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Panorama

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Amorosa

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor Distil

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanthemed Amorosa. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or instead come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is also just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day spent temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant, The Deck, and six lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

nightlife

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng |

Zuk Bar

Bamboo Chic

www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic, which is Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails such as the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance upon arrival… Unfortunately, Patpong, the notorious neon sleazepit and tourist night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

CM2 CM2

nightlife

bangkok 101

Club 87 plus

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

THE GLAZ BAR (map C3) G/F, Plaza Athénée Bangkok, 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu Road), Lumpini | 02-650-8800; www. royalmeridienbangkok.com/ theglazbar | Daily 10am-2am Accessible from both the street and lobby, The Glaz Bar features a nightly mixture of hotel guests and locals in the know, attracted by its distinctive decor, nightly live entertainment and attentive service. With an intimate chic and cosmopolitan atmosphere, patrons flock here to enjoy a range of creative cocktails (including favourites Thai Tapas and Molecular Mixology), local and international beers, and a tantalising menu that includes tapas, salads, sandwiches and desserts. For armchair voyeurs, the outdoor terrace offers luxurious views of vibrant Wireless (Witthayu) Road, while you shouldn’t miss their popular ‘Cocktails and Cones’ networking events, which take place once a month (contact the bar for details). There’s also a live band that performs daily from 9pm to 1am.

รร. พลาซ่า แอนธินี ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 1980s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. Meanwhile, DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-oneget-one-free Happy Hour (6pm9.30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin, while there is also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

The Glaz Bar

nightlife

Nightlife

bars Fat Gut’z 264, Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) | 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am | $$$ | Food delivery available Don’t let the fish ‘n’ chips fool you; Fat Gut’z is not about the food. Already a place to see and be seen, this sleek saloon is packed nightly with a crowd of beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the already legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named – and here’s the rub – after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular order is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two). Made from an old family recipe, it comes served in a wooden tub, turning a takeaway staple into finger food. Tucking in as we listened to the blues band play on the tiny stage, and observed the hi-so crowd sipping politely on their aquatic-inspired cocktails, it was obvious that this bar is an unusual, albeit successful blend of ingredients.

แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55

Fat Gut’z

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm1am (gallery open from 3pm) “It’s just like a bar in BarcelonaBerlin-Brooklyn” (take your pick), say punters when they enter WTF. The tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo, feta salad and pork fried-rice steamed in lotus leaf. It’s more intimate and much, much smaller, but WTF definitely owes a DNA strand or two to Raindogs, the creative social club that shutdown earlier this year. And that’s a good thing. Just like it, there are occasional live gigs, edgy art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and, on busy nights, a mix of local indie hipsters, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with.

ดับเบิลยูทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

nightlife

Hyde & Seek (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www.hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ Two bright lights of Thailand’s F&B scene opened this stylish downtown gastro bar: a dead-ringer for one of those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is fuelled by Chanond Purananda, a partner in Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and the beginnings of a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas. In sum, Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the still huge market for high quality drinks and food at middle prices. Because of this, it gets very busy with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.

แอทธินีเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

bangkok 101

The Iron Fairies

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

THE IRON FAIRIES (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiosity-cum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the castiron spiral staircase. The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the range of burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm1am, closed on the second and fourth Sundays of every month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

nightlife

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02- 286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of Catalan-inspired tapas, you’re definitely in the wrong place. Yet, because or despite of this, it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a wbenevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs

Bamboo Bar

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Jazzy Brunch. Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am

nightlife

An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate

bangkok 101

This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม

Niu’s on Silom

this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok institution is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday bangkok 101

nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must, even if just the once. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am nightlife

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

Brown sugar

Nightlife

live music

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad 96

for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซีเอโซนดี

Nomads 106-108 Silom Soi 4, 02-266-3552 | Tue-Sun 5pm-late A live music bar located just a few minutes from Sala Daeng Skytrain could be just what the doctor ordered. Nomads is a beer and boogie joint with a friendly owner and nightly bands including long-time favourites the Soi Dog Blues Band and the Fugitives, a sax and trumpet-led five piece doing soul, funk and jazz. Sundays is a band jam, with everyone welcome, while the Tuesday open mike is a more acoustic opportunity to try out your new songs. Not the easiest place to find, the small square room is located right at the end of Soi 4. Beers start at B90, cocktails from B100 and there’s a snacky menu of dishes like wings, spaghetti and spicy Thai salads.

โนแมด สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Overtone

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage (here the choice of name becomes a little clearer) it’s a pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Parking Toys has a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can variously catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. With no nearby BTS or MRT station, it’s a hike, but well worth the effort. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s.

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

bangkok 101

Parking Toys

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. In sum, it offers great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations are a must for large groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3 nightlife

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything Van Halen and Motorhead covers.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai & Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a mixed international and Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], Funky Villa [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage, as is the unique Iron Fairies [4]. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [5], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [6] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [7] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [8] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two 5 BTS Thong Lor that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [9] and Soi 55 (Thong lor) scruffy little bar Happy 6 4 Monday [10]. Pretty young 1 2 things bounce along to Thai 3 tunes in the former; while 7 9 media types (mostly aged 25 Soi 63 (Ekkamai) plus) hobnob while enjoying 8 10 low-key DJ sessions (May T BTS Ekkamai from Modern Dog etc). nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy.

5 RCA road

1 2

Q Bar

Sukhumvit Soi 11

Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers 1 at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad 4 Bed Supperclub bigger than a 2 broom cupboard. Nest [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option offering 5 laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think 3 Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax [5] lures in the city’s good, the bad, the beautiful and, SUKHUMVIT road unfortunately, the ugly till the wee hours. bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

featured

BLACK SWAN

pub

As soon as you walk through the door of this place, nestled in the shadow of Asoke BTS station, one thing is clear, this is not a concept pub, this is a proper British boozer. You won’t find any faux-Irish décor, happy hours, or live bands; but that’s what makes it so appealing. It’s a snug escape from the madness of Bangkok with its wood paneled walls, adorned with a collection of mementoes; you even get a classic wise-cracking landlord thrown in for good measure. Its small size and low ceilings give it a cozy atmosphere helped by the low-level lighting and small brick fireplace. On the ground floor there is a scattering of bench seats WHERE 326/8-9 and tables or romantics can Sukhumvit Rd | BTS head upstairs with its candleAsoke, MRT Sukhumvit | lit seating. Be warned though 02-229-4542 | this will involve negotiating OPEN 8am-1pm the metal spiral staircase, a challenge when you have had a drink or three. There is a good selection of beers, with Guinness, John Smith’s and Kilkenny on draught and a menu offering English style pub grub. Make sure you try the fish and chips - the haddock is imported direct from Scotland every Friday. แบล็คสวอน ถ.สุขมุ วิท 100

nightlife

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from the Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ n Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar P&L Club Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

BTS Nana

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map, and prepare for sheer retail overload.

Unique Boutique

Geo Décor A secret garden of stationary and unique accessories hides inside Geo Décor’s Thong Lor showroom, complimented by large leafy greens and fragile orchids. For the three good friends who became business partners, it all started with a simple love for photographing these flowers at their country home. Inspired by the naked beauty of nature and the famed Deyrolle shop in Paris, Geo Décor has set out to bring a little of Europe to Asia conveniently packaged in a pop-out card with Victorian illustrations. The showroom’s sky high ceilings and greenhouse of natural light lends itself to being quite experimental, filled with eclectic accents you don’t necessarily need, but most definitely would love to have. Floral wrapping paper, scented soaps, Dutch porcelain vases, paintchipped mannequins, colourful pillows, and tons of whimsical trinkets cover every inch and corner, making only one purchase a real challenge. But if you’re going for practicality, Geo’s popular stationary is the answer. The journals, cards, notepads and wrapping paper are actually where it all stemmed from – no flower pun intended. There is a wide assortment of prints, all colourful, lyrical, and give the impression that there is a magical story within. When you look further around the showroom you will notice that many pieces are vintage inspired, but some are the real deal, imported from famous international designers. So be ready to pay international prices! After six years and twelve collections, Geo Décor has gone global as well, selling select pieces at Barneys in New York City and Paul Smith’s online store – impressive. But Geo Décor still keeps it in the community and loves to promote local budding talent. The showroom’s second floor is dedicated to showcase up-and-coming Thai fashion designers. And although the showroom resides in Thonglor, Geo Decor has also conquered Bangkok’s malls with two other branches; one at Siam Paragon, the other at The Emporium. Visit any or all for an exclusive, enchanted experience.

จีโอ เดคคอร์ ซ.ทองหล่อ ตรงข้ามรพ.คามิลเลียน

Where Main Showroom 912/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Opp. Camillian Hosipital, 02-381-4324, www.geo.co.th BTS Thong Lor OPEN 10am-8pm Prices B300-B10,000 102

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown ‘stuff’ that Bangkok is justly famous for. Sretsis

Silk & apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more if you like). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for members of the Royal family), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping malls Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer up a host of homespun high fashion by trendy labels such as Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery & gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP (One Tambon One Product), a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

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Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.106). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.106); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 104

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com n Panpuri

Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: When shopping, look out for signs advertising ‘VAT Refund or Tourists’. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7 per cent on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you queue up to buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. A word of caution: if you are making large purchases and not being asked to pay VAT, you aren’t guaranteed they are quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th bangkok 101

DREAM WEAVER:

ML Pawinee Santisiri of Ayodhya

bangkok design Brian Mertens

Water hyacinth, a floating aquatic weed that clogs Thailand’s canals and rivers, becomes a thing of beauty in the hands of interior designer ML Pawinee Santisiri. Her brand Ayodhya is acclaimed for distinctive vases, mats and other accessories woven from the plant’s sundried stems. Among ML Pawinee’s classics are large vessels standing more than one and a half metres tall, in shapes recalling ancient Asian ceramics. Her work has been especially well received in Japan, where it has won awards and been exhibited at Tokyo’s Hara Museum. Decorators rely on Ayodhya designs to warm up modern interiors cooled by stone, steel and glass, thanks to this plant fibre’s appealing colour, texture and fragrance. To fully exploit the design potential of water hyacinth, previously used only in simple crafts, ML Pawinee mastered the art of woven construction. She developed a dozen weaving, braiding and other methods, each with a different look and range of applications. Sometimes she interweaves the fibre with materials like jute, leather and beads. ML Pawinee is driven to innovate by the need to create two new collections each year that take advantage of the specific handicraft skills of her firm’s more than 100 artisans, primarily using water hyacinth. Because she is committed to sustaining this village-size collective, she would never consider mechanical production, outsourcing or a shift toward the mass market. “I feel bound to this material so I keep finding new ways to use it, to take it as far as it will go,” ML Pawinee says. Available at: n AYODHYA 3-06, 3F Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Road | 02-656-1089 n PANTA 989 No.411-2, 4F Siam Discovery Center, Rama1 Road | 02-658-0415 Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish | B1,200 - hardcover | written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

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Shopping

Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more. Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

u ri roa

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

ph e tb

Phaya Thai road

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWA N B A N G KOK BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri road 4

5 6 7

BTS Chitlom

chidlom

lang suan road

e n kr 14

rd.

u ng

106

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

d. ya r S i phra

charo

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

ive r

BTS Ploenchit

ra r

phy

chao

WITTHAYU road

CE N T RAL CHI T LOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers.The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

phetburi road

ploenchit road

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom Allwhite interior features glitzy, topclass brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

s u rawong

JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

s ilom

shopping

bangkok 101

Jatujak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has evolved its own diverse ecosystem (albeit one that periodically gets busted). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

jatujak Map Rd . 1 n io

Casual street clothing label for girls, Hey Pilgrim!, has been serving up limited edition, screen-printed tank tops, t-shirts, maxi-dresses and accessories since 2007. And boy do we mean limited edition: to keep their clients coming, they only make 12 pieces of each design, and change the designs two to three times a month. How’s that for keeping fashion fresh. At the moment, animal iconography seems to feature writ large at their JJ store, with lots of threads emblazoned with owls, eagles, wolfs, rabbits, leopards and other moody nocturnal creatures. However, blotty, abstract or polkadot patterns also pop up too. Should WHERE Section 2, Soi you want some heftier clothes 41 (nr. Kamphaengphet to take home with you, they subway station) | www. also do a European collection heypilgrim.com (this season’s winter collection, ‘Where the Wild Things Are’, takes its cue from the famous children’s picture book and makes use of muted colours and fake fur). Come check this JJ favourite out, unleash the fashionable animal inside you. 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

Rd .

Section 9

Section 11

Section 13

Section 4

To Victory Monument

n io ct

Section 5

To Vibhavadhi - Rangsit Rd.

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pha

Section 12

Section 14

Section 16

K am

Section 18

Section 10

6 C eng h Pu at Ph bl uc ic ha et Pa k 3 Rd rk .

Section 20

Section 21

eng

Section 15

23 n io Se

Section 8

Clock Tower

n io ct

Section 17

Se 24

Section 19

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pha

Section 21

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bangkok 101

HEY PILGRIM!

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

3 et Ph

Ph et g

pha

K am

K St am at ph io a n en

K am

of the month

Chatuchak Park Station

Mo Chit Station

107

Shopping

markets Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao intersection | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

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shopping

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

bangkok 101

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of longtail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Pratunam Just a ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fast-talking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item; but like anywhere else, let the buyer beware.

ประตูนำ้

Chakphet Rd. Chakphet Rd.

Merryking

Wangburapa Rd.

Specialists in high-quality fabrics for women!!

Chakphet Rd.

End of Year Sale

The Old Siam

...from french laces, silk jacquards, chiffon prints, cording laces, embroidered laces, taffettas linens, cottons, satins, and more...

...fabrics for cocktail dresses, evening wear and day-wear

Visit us now for the lastest collections and new designs!! Gandhi-326 Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-2255-997/503 H 9-6pm (Mon-Sat) 9-530pm (Sun) Cynosure-A002 G/F ChinaWorld Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-225-2001-3 H 930-7pm (Mon-Sun) www.gandhi.co.th

bangkok 101

shopping

109

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In every issue, the Bangkok 101 puts its heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok’s new breed of hotel. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique banner.

THE BHUTHORN

A heritage B&B offering 20th century, sepia-toned soul over 21st century gleam. Only 200 or metres walk from the Grand Palace, The Bhuthorn occupies two century-old shophouses and overlooks an historic square lined with lots more of them. It took years of renovation by the architect owners to finish. But was totally worth it. Inside, gold gilt mirrors, old Siamese maps and photographs and other old-world furniture and finishes complement the skillfully restored plastering, wooden fretwork and teak floors. They also lend the public areas and three sumptuous rooms – each of which is named after a Thai prince – a heady, borderline colonial elegance that recalls King Rama V’s yen for all things European. Charming mod-cons abound: attentive Where 96-98 Phraeng Bhuthorn service (“sweet dreams, sir”); Rd, San Chao Phor Seau, Phra flatscreen TVs and free wi-fi, as Nakhorn (map A3), 02-622-2270, well as a tasty breakfast, served www.thebhuthorn.com in the petite, potted plant-filled Price B2,800-3,600net courtyard. Perhaps best of all, the (Until Jan, 2010) Thai food in this neck of the woods is among the tastiest in town, with neighbouring shophouses dishing out delicacies made to generations-old recipes (don’t miss the coconut ice cream next door and nearby Chote Chitr). All in all, it adds up to a stay to remember.

เดอะภูธร แพร่งภูธร (ใกล้ศาลเจ้าพ่อเสือ)

Chic 39

“We want you to feel like you’re staying in a jungle” says Khun Jak, the male half of the husband-wife duo behind this quirky b&b for flashpackers. Mission accomplished: not only does Chic 39 come with greenspace – a backyard oasis complete with sun-dappled plants and trees, stepping stone ponds and chill treehouse – it’s also only metres from another type of jungle entirely, Bangkok’s manic Sukhumvit Road. Primed with tropical paint schemes and shabby chic touches, this 60-year-old wooden townhouse has a banana-yellow lobby strewn with tschotkes (straw hats, a bust of Superman etc) and five whimsical rooms. Each boast distressed, slightly creaky wood floors, radios and blown-up wall photographs of country vistas, as well as a stainless steel wash-tub shower in the bathroom. Want more privacy? The Chompoo Villa, with its billowing, dessert-tent style bedroom and open-air bathroom, is out in the quiet garden. This ain’t the best value B&B on the block, especially as there’s no pool, no in-room fridges and they serve rice porridge or barbequed pork and sticky rice for breakfast. But Chic 39 does win you over with its tropical rusticity, familyrun approach, and that WHERE 10 Sukhumvit Soi 39, jungle within the concrete Klongton-Nua, Wattana, jungle theme. 081-701-7607, www.chic39.com ชิค 39 สุขุมวิท ซ.39 PRICE B2,000 – 4,500 (10% off until Apr 2010) 110

accommodation

bangkok 101

A Hollywood Smile in only a year!

The TenBrook T1 Self-Ligating

design ﬁts comfortably in

Bracket oﬀers a new level of

the mouth and the precision

speed and comfort creating the

design aligns teeth 2-3 times

perfect smile. The unique rounded

faster than regular braces.

For more information or to ﬁnd a local T1 doctor: Email info@paciﬁcmedical.co.th or Call 02-938-9745 (ask for Kik or Doug)

Average treatment time is 12-15 months and depends on each patient s case.

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – there’s no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations always recommended.

Thai massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

Where Behind Piyavate Hospital, Rama 9 Road, 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, 02-660-2600 www.triaintegrativewellness.com Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-10pm, Sat 10.30am-9pm, Sun 10.30am-8.30pm Price B3,000 for 90 minutes

TRIA MASSAGE Urban RetreatSIGNATURE Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit

Soi 35 / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-2042008-9 / www.urbanretreatspa.net “Why am I venturing out to the sticks for a massage?” you may ask <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> yourself while / 10am-10pm / $ slogging across town to Tria, a big, three-storey urban 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink wellness mansion connected to Bangkok’s Piyavate Hospital and done Salts with Yogurt and Honey Scrub up in gleaming, Asian minimalist + 60-minute Macadamia Oil Mas-style. Here’s the first reason: Tria is not your spa, but one of the best medical spas in the capital, offering sage:average 1200 baht Tucked away in a side streetprograms close extensive, specialist-helmed devoted to anti-aging, pre-natal care, to Phrom Phong, Urban Retreat is holistic detoxification, ‘bodywork’. Second reason: after your rub, wrap precisely that – a quietorspot close to of Sukhumvit the or the facialbustle you get access to and a gorgeous spa pool, an infrared sauna, a steam upscale Emporium shopping mall.put, Tria is the only spa in town we know room, and Swiss showers. Simply This new, small spa is popular with of where healthforeign club benefits Thais andcushy long-term resi- come for free. Not bad in a city where dents drawn by veryusually good involves services being handed a cup of lukewarm herbal post-rub aftercare that don’t suffer for being afford-

tea and shown the door within minutes. Treatments offered range from standard Thai massages to shirodharas and jet lag therapies. For us, though, it was to be the Tria Signature massage: a 90 minute blend of Swedish, Indian Abhyanga, lymphatic drainage, Shiatsu, acupressure and, naturally, Thai. If that sounds like a disorientating mish-mash of massage schools, let us assure you ours wasn’t. Or at least, we don’t think it was. Shortly after entering Tria’s imposing spa zone – a dim indoor courtyard clad top-tobottom in golden teak and with treatment rooms all facing a central Jacuzzi – things go a bit hazy (yes, we admit it, we slept on the job). However, there were a succession of gratifying sensations that did make it past our drowsy synapses and to the brain receptors. Namely, the deep muscle-penetrating strokes and attentiveness of our masseuse, and, most memorable of all, the hour or so we spent coming round in those first-rate facilities afterwards.

ตรัยยา หลังรพ.ปิยะเวท ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน

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typical SPA cost range

CHIVIT CHIVA MASSAGES (map D3) 16/1-2, Sukhumvit Road, Soi 19| BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-253-06078 | www.chivitchivaspa.com | 10am11pm | $$$ Enter this soothing spa, close the door to Bangkok behind you and wave the chaos of the Asok intersection area goodbye. There are five spa rooms and four Thai rooms, all simple yet exotic, some with private shower. All 12 staff are expertly trained and the menu of available treatments is extensive, featuring facials, body, foot and oil massages, spa packages as well as more funky treatments such as stone massages. They also offer a variety of body scrubs with everything from coffee to seaweed, salt and apple. The B1,600 baht oil massage is splendid, your 90 minute professional massage including a choice of your favourite oil scent, a private massage room with a shower attached and a bathrobe. The spa also offers cheaper solutions, a traditional Thai massage going for B600 baht for 1 hour. That’s more expensive than at many, but it’s also more reverent.

ชีวิตชีวามาสสาจแอนด์สปา สุขุมวิท 19

CHIVIT CHIVA MASSAGES

bangkok 101

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

PIMMALAI (map E4) 2105/1 Sukhumvit Rd (between Sois 81 & 83) |BTS On Nut | 02-742-6452 | www.pimmalai.com | 10am-10pm | $ This impossible traditional Northern Thai house is almost a stereotype in its authenticity. Tropical foliage harbours a tall teak and red-brick Lanna structure, inviting in its combo of simplicity and intricate trimming (translate that into high ceilings, pottery and bamboo). Refreshingly simple, airy rooms proffer a calming background for convincing treatments. The short menu contains the absolute classics (plus ear candling, which we love; other favourites are the Eye Treatment and the Scalp Massage). You’ll be hardpressed to find lower prices even in the dingiest establishments around Nana – Pimmalai’s owners must be good-hearted souls not out for any profit. Plan to spend a whole day here, enjoying several treatments. In between, browse the spa shop, buy sarongs and the whole range of intriguing PIMM bath & body products. Fret not the location – Pimmalai is minutes away from a BTS Station. An absolute must – one of our all-time favourites.

spas LEELA THAI HERBAL SPA (map C4) 43 Soi Narathiwat 7, Sathorn | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-679-3511-2 | www. leelathaispa.com | 10am-9pm | $$$ For convenience, it’s hard to beat Leela – located a few blocks from the Chong Nonsi BTS, this modern city spa is a snap to find. Popular with Thais and visitors from Hong Kong, Leela offers wonderful treatments that are also a good value – their spa packages are particularly well-priced. Try the excellent Leela Thai Aroma massage, which combines the long, smooth strokes of Swedish technique with Thai firmer-pressure moves. The Aroma Vie facial leaves clients refreshed and glowing – the cooling mask is a perfect way to beat the Bangkok heat. While the minimalist décor may not fully muffle surrounding street noise, in the hands of Leela’s rigorously trained technicians, the only thing to wake you from your reverie will likely be the sound of your own snoring.

ลีลาไทยเฮอร์บัลสปา ซ.นราธิวาส 7

พิมมาลัย ระหว่างสุขุมวิท ซ. 81 และ 83

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified 114

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physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is big business in Thailand; quite literally a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 different countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of other world-class medical centres – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international patients. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad International, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your

bangkok 101

private room, they have their own immigration department and a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your visit. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

FEATURED medical treatment

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com Bangkok Plastic Surgery

Abdominoplasty (Tummy Tuck) So maybe you enjoy having a pint or two. Or ten. And nowadays when you look in the mirror it seems as if you’re hiding a bowl of jelly under your shirt. Your friends are probably telling you it’s time to hit the gym and do some crunches. But if you can’t be bothered to mingle with the grunting and flexing crowd there is an alternative. Abdominoplasty, better known as a tummy tuck, is a cosmetic procedure which gives your abdomen a little fine tuning. Muscles are tightened, fat is removed, and excess saggy skin eliminated. This procedure is best suited to relatively healthy men and women who have trouble getting rid of that oh-sodreaded belly fat. And it’s a very popular choice for women after pregnancy. Though not painless, the procedure is pretty simple and can be completed within a couple hours. And you should be healed within a few weeks. Before you hit the beach to show off your newly acquired six-pack, it should be noted that there are some side effects. There will be a permanent post-op scar that can stretch from hip to hip and future pregnancies will cause tightened muscles to separate. Thailand has become one of the world’s leading centres for plastic surgery, and most medical practitioners are trained up to international standards. The prices are immensely competitive, particularly compared with other Western counterparts. As always, be sure to research your procedure carefully. Where to tuck your tummy n Bangkok Hospital Medical Center Soi Soonvijai 2, New Petchaburi Rd. | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com n Bangkok Plastic Surgery -422-426/1 Indramara Soi 20, Suthisarn Rd. | 02-690-8000 | www.bangkokplasticsurgery.com -Clinic Soi 1 | 220/2-3 Sukhumwit Soi 1 | 02-255-5525 | www.surgery-thailand.com n Preecha Aesthetic Institute PAI Bldg. Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor) | www.pai.co.th

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention in the ring n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

Fairtex

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

t’ai chi

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. bangkok 101

Major Bowl

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02-354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among spor ts

youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice. And this is Thailand so of course there’s also a popular karaoke set-up on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace (and recently retired) Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. For spectators, towards the end of the men’s and women’s seasons, Bangkok hosts the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 117

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apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 118

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล

อะคาเดมีโมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Toys for Thailand

Like most of us, Sasha Bilar watched with shock on TV as the devastation caused by the 2004 tsunami became apparent worldwide. Wanting to help in any way she could, she thought of all the children left homeless and orphaned by the natural disaster, and decided to found charitable organisation Toys for Thailand. The concept was simple: families were encouraged to donate their unwanted toys to the charity, which were then distributed to needy children. From its early beginnings sending unwanted playthings, Toys for Thailand has since expanded its remit to providing tangible goods and services for orphaned, abandoned, and refugee children living in remote villages, reasoning it can help youth more by improving their future opportunities and providing a quality educational environment. The Rom Klao School Pangtong Development Centre in Mae Hong Son (one of the King’s Royal Projects), was the first that Bilar and Maria Miller, the foundation’s co-director, approached to donate instructional materials, playground equipment and vocational supplies, as well as partner with on green and sustainable projects. The Toys for Thailand project has since been expanded to incorporate schools across the northern border area, with a total of 12 to be targeted. Through this work, they hope to develop the living conditions of ethnic minority children from the Aka, Hmong, Shan, Pa-O, Muser, Karen and other tribes. There is also a pilot project currently underway called Small World Mae Hong Son, which is aimed at promoting the importance of hill tribe culture to foreign tourists and other Thais, and thus raising their status as well as helping to conserve unique local traditions. Among the many activities at Small World Mae Hong Son, tourists can purchase local products, or volunteer to teach lessons that can provide local children with future vocations, such as mushroom farming, vegetable gardening, and art classes. However, if you are unable to visit in person,Toys for Thailand still takes donations of

bangkok 101

cour ses & ser vices

CONTACT: Sasha Bilar: 083-152-9858, sbilar@toysforthailand.org Maria Miller: mmiller@palomar.edu WHERE TO DONATE: Chiangmai Drop-Off Center: Go Chiang Mai Tour, 185/7 Changklan Road, Changklan Muang, 053-818-644, s.somlim@gmail.com Bangkok Drop-Off Center: Konthathip Veraprawat, 081-702-1492, konthathip.v@thaiairways.com Visit http://toysforthailand.org for more info. 119

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

RIVER (also see River Tourism on p24)

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

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CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

reference

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. bangkok 101

Ratchaprarop

Ramkhamhaeng Makasan

Hua mak Ban Tap Chang Latkrabang

Suvarnabh

umi

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Airport Rail Link (SA City Line) Airport Rail Link (SA Express)