Bangkok 101 - July 2011 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

july 2011 100 baht

metrobeat VIU travel SIPADAN t h r o u g h t h e sacred e y e s skin of his kingdom

food & drink TINY ROOM nightlife CLOUDS

july 2011

SACRED SKIN HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

july 2011

As you can see from this month’s mesmerising cover, in this issue we take a close look at an ancient facet of the local culture, one not as dear to the Thai Ministry of Culture as temples or teak houses but no less rooted in tradition. Hand-hammered into the skin, sak yant are tattoos that are said to give the wearer an intimate connection with the spirit world, even wielding a supernatural power some devotees believe. Over the past year photographer Aroon Thaewchatturat and wordsmith Tom Vater have delved deep into this oft-maligned practice in an attempt to catalogue, and debunk a few myths about Thailand’s human canvases. See this month’s photo feature for teasers from their book, Sacred Skin, which is published this month. Also in this issue, Max Crosbie-Jones road-tests a burgeoning tour company that is leading peckish tourists on intrepid streetfood foraging missions. Meanwhile, in our new Travel section we join Dave Stamboulis as he dives into the azure blue seas off Malaysian Borneo’s Sipadan, “One of the world’s most phenomenal water worlds” he gushes. Edifying book excerpts this month include a look into the Thai predilection for all things cute, in Very Thai; an account of when US astronaut Neil Armstrong landed here in back in 1969, in Chronicle of Thailand; while Business 101 profiles the spa barons behind Oasis Spa; and Making Merit bigs-up a fund-raising drive by animal charity, Soi Cats and Dogs. Interviews include a chinwag with emerging Chiang Mai artist, Sudsiri Pui-ock, who has an exhibition on at Ardel Gallery later this month. And we have a Fashion 1-On-1 with Seksarit Thanaprasittikul, the tailor behind avant-garde men’s imprint, The Alchemists. We also visit “Bangkok’s lifestyle mall for hipsters”, Baan Ekamai. As for the other passions of this city – eating and partying – read our reviews of new Thonglor cocktail spot Clouds, dinky restaurant Tiny Room, and the St Regis Hotel’s Viu. Finally, do seek out the inaugural edition of sister publication Lanna 101 (also see www.lanna101.com). Jammed full of local expertise and colour, this annual guide to northern Thailand, once the Kingdom of Lanna, applies the same great formula that has made Bangkok 101 your go-to companion. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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contributors Aroon Thaewchatturat Aroon Thaewchatturat has been shooting assignment and stock photography around Asia since 2004, and was awarded an Emmy for her production work for CBS News 60 Minutes on the plight of Thailand’s Moken sea nomads in the wake of the 2004 Tsunami. Aroon’s features have appeared in magazines such as The Far Eastern Economic Review and MERIAN, while her stock imagery has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, TIME, The Financial Times among other publications. www.aroonthaew.com

Philip Cornwel-Smith Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and news for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Vater Tom Vater is a writer specialising in Asian subjects. He has published nonfiction books, travel guides and a novel, and has co-written a number of documentary screenplays for European television. Tom also writes for print and online media – including The Times, The Daily Telegraph, The Asia Wall Street Journal, Marie Claire and Penthouse. On his travels he has joined sea gypsies and nomads, pilgrims and soldiers, secret agents, pirates, hippies, police men, prophets and tattoo masters. See www.tomvater.com

Steven Pettifor British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he publishedc coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing about art, he is often found travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Dave Stamboulis Greek-born but Californiaraised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he works for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, while his travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Group Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Senior Editorial Assistant Pattarasuda Prajittanond Editorial Assistant Amornsri Tresarannukul Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Liz Smailes, Korakot Punlopruksa, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Darktemplar, Julian Ward, Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2011. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

july 2011

snapshots

food & drink

sightseeing

60 64 65 66

6 8 12 14 15 16 17

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

101 picks metro beat in the neighbourhood history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: cute

orientation riverside route101: sam phreang temples museums spotlight: house of museums historical homes & shrines parks & zoos room 101: room @ bangkok

travel 28 29 30

hotel deals upcountry now over the border: sipadan

arts

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 42

art 1 on 1 exhibitions performing arts cultural centres cinema books paradise found photo feature: sacred skin

48 49 50 52 53 57

dining in bangkok meal deals street eats thai cusine featured restaurant neighbourhood nosh: langsuan road restaurants brunch dim-sum dessert

nightlife 68 70 71 73 75 76 77 78 80 81

one night in bangkok featured bar: clouds clubs bars with a view hotel bars & clubs bars live music jazz clubs pubs nightlife areas

shopping 82 84 85 86 88

spotlight: baan ekamai mall crawl fashion 1-on-1: the alchemists jatujak market markets

wellness 90

spas

community 92 93 94 95

sports business 101 courses making merit

reference 96 On the cover: Sacred Skin, p42

getting around

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S N A P S H OT S

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Jatujak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.86).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.95).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.64).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.20).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.68-81).

■ Pak KhlongTalad Pick up more pretty posies than you know what to do with at this 24-hour flower market (p.88).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.94).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.17).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.72).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.84).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.94).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop (p.19).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.92).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.73).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars.

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.92).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.49).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature.

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.58).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.84).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.37).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.50).

■ Lumphini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.25).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (p.81).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.84).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.24).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.59).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.88).

■ Thai Theatre Traditional Thai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.38).

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S N A P S H OT S

metro beat

Our man about town Howard Richardson presents the lowdown on what’s on and what’s in. Read on for the picks of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, happenings and openings, plus all the essential events you can’t afford to miss

DINING

POP & ROCK the grand hyatt erawan (02-2541234) welcomes the band back Xpress to its spasso nightclub. the Us-Canadian seven-piece play top 40 tunes nightly from 10pm until september 3.

THEATRE there are performances of khon classical masked dance theatre in The Episode of Miyarap taken from the thai classic the ramakien, at the thailand Cultural Centre (02-2470028) from July 15-31. tickets are B400-B1,500 from thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). there are also performances of khon at sala Chalermkrung theatre (02-224-4499) with shows like Hanuman the Mighty and other ramakien stories every thursday and friday. tickets (B800-B1,200) are available from thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com). all soul’s Chamber theatre (084-109-9588) present The Thai Adventures of Pinocchio on consecutive saturdays, July 9, 16, 23, and 30. tickets for the show are B400 and for the show with wine dinner B1,340. there are more details at www.all-soul.org.

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the Dinner With Opera programme continues at grossi italian restaurant (02-656-0444, www. intercontinental.com) on July 27 with Verdi’s La Traviata. the accompanying meal features four courses from the tuscany region, with dishes like la fiorentina paired with wines. price B2,499. Michelin-starred chef Alfredo Russo brings ‘new italian’ cuisine to rossini’s in the sheraton grande hotel (02-649-8353) from July 29 to august 7. russo has been developing rossini’s new menu with his own signature dishes, tasting menus and wine cellar choices. during the visit he will prepare a special wine dinner (B3,600++) plus lunch and dinner menus. as part of Mandarin oriental’s 135th anniversary celebrations andre terrail heads a team of chefs from the paris restaurant La Tour d’Argent, who will cook at the hotel’s le normandie (02-659-9000) from July 4-9. lunch and dinner menus will feature each day, with the headline dish being la tour’s famous pressed duck. thailand has an historical link to the paris institution, as hM King Chulalongkorn dined there in 1907.

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S N A P S H OT S

EVENTS

ART

Major stores throughout the country participate in the annual Thailand Grand Sale until aug 15, with discounts on all kinds of goods, such as kitchenware, crafts, clothes, decor and fashion accessories, plus services like hotel and tour deals. there’s a bit of everything at the Thailand Best Shopping Fair 2011 at impact arena (02-504-5050) from July 23-31, with goods running from wedding products to air-conditioning and sound systems. and rounding off a mega shopping month, there are more bargains on offer from July 28-31 in the Amazing Thailand Grand Sale Fair 2011 at the Queen sirikit national Convention Centre (02-229-3000). some 600 tourism-related products and services will have discounts between 10 and 80 percent.

100 tonson gallery (02-6841527) shows thai artist Phaptawan S u w ann akud t ’s take on the role of the outsider in a textile exhibition called Locution(re)-locations until July 10, before switching to contemporary Japanese painter Takanobu Kobayashi and his collection of oils titled Dream, Dreaming Us, from July 14 to aug 21. the gallery opens 11am-7pm from thur-sun. the exhibition Re-Reading Khun Chang Khun Phaen, at the Jim thompson art Centre (02-6126741) until september 30, is based on an ayutthaya period folk tale that was subsequently reworked by high society literary figures, including thailand’s most famous poet sunthorn phu and even King rama ii. the exhibition includes rare illustrations by hem Vejakorn, illuminated painting by Chakrabhand posayakrit, digital photography, costumes, films, cartoons and performance art. a recent english translation by Chris Baker and pasuk phongpaichit is also available to buy. admission is free.

NIGHTLIFE Bed supperclub (02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub. com) starts the month with a strong mouthful: the Four Leading Edge Bourbons Bourbon Dinner to celebrate Us independence day on July 4. the rest of the month includes aussie electro act The Subs (July 21), and ends with DJ Nu Mark (Jurassic 5) Toys, Gadgets & Turntables, a night of “children’s musical toys, cutting edge gadgets and mind-blowing dJ skills”. CM2 at the novotel Bangkok (02-209-8888) has several events this month, including free entrance for Us citizens for its Independence Day Party on July 4, with hot dog and draught beer deals at B300. the Lovely ’80s Party, from July 6-12, has free entrance for people born in the 80s, plus a free CM2 friendship Card; while the french get free entry and 30% discount on bottles for Bastille Day on July 14. Wear funny glasses on Fancy Glass Night (July 16) and you get a free cocktail; from July 20-26 it’s the Tramps and Beauty Party, with half price bottles of red wine; and the month closes with the Laser Weekend Party (July 29-30) and Buy 1 get 1 from 10pm to midnight. Q Bar (02-252-3274) invests in the power of flowers with its Come Together party on July 23, when they promise “celebrity musicians, artists, bartenders, performances, peace, love and good vibrations”. see www.qbarbangkok.com for updates. 10

july 2011

SPORT the Bangkok Triathlon invites brave souls to swim in the Chao phraya river on July 10, before embarking on a lung busting 10km run and 55km bike ride around the capital’s streets. there are men’s and women’s races in age groups ranging from 18 to over-60. you can enter as an individual or in teams of three, taking one leg each. the start is at rama Viii Bridge at 6.15am. the Snooker World Cup has invited 40 of the best players on the global circuit to participate in a team event featuring 15 countries. the twoman teams will represent nations such as england, China, australia and hosts thailand in the round-robin tournament at Central World (02-640-7000) from July 11-17.

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RESTAURANT

FILM theBangkok art & Culture Centre (02-2146632), hosts the European Union Film Festival 2011 from July 6-17, showcasing 22 films from 16 eU countries. the list covers genres from romance to thrillers and documentaries, including An Ordinary Execution (france, 2010), The Hell of ’63 (netherlands, 2010) and the award winning exit Through the Giftshop (UK, 2010) by the graffi ti artist Banksy. the festival also celebrates its 20th anniversary with musical performances over the weekend of July 16-17 at the same venue. the films then move to Vista Kadsuankaew cinema in Chiang Mai from July 21-31. all films are in their original language with english subtitles. admission is free. there’s a full schedule and synopses at www.facebook.com/euinthailand. the 3rd Children’s Film Festival has international and local features and shorts at the thai film archive in salaya (02-482-2013, ext 114) and at tK park (8th floor, Central World, 02-264-5963) from July 8-18. nonthai films are either in english or have english subtitles. admission free. there’s more information at www. fapot.org and www.facebook.com/thaifilmarchive.

CLASSICAL & OPERA opera siam perform sp somtow’s celebrated thai opera Mae Naak for two nights only at sala Chalermkrung (02-224-4499) on July 12 and 13. the production, based on a 100-yearold ghost story, sees nancy yuen in the title role, fresh from her per for mances as Madame Butterfly in london, and Kyu Won han of the san francisco opera as her husband Maak. they lead a cast of more than 100. the show is a forerunner to two nights at the Bloomsbury theatre, london in september. the performances start at 8pm; tickets are B500-B3,000 from thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). www.bangkok101.com

VIU

The international grill at the St Regis, one of Bangkok’s latest upmarket hotels, has handsome views over the greens of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club. And the outlook is even better from the terrace of the adjacent St Regis Bar. Each evening here a butler welcomes the sunset by zipping a saber along the neck of a champagne bottle, slicing the collar clean off. This “champagne sabering” is apparently a long standing St Regis tradition. Following the sabering retire to Viu, a large, bright restaurant where chefs busy themselves at an open kitchen, and start with the seafood plateau (B1,200 per person, minimum two people), a traditional seafood tower of oysters, crab, lobster and other treasures of the deep. Then, perhaps move on to lobster bisque with olive oil ice cream, before a main course menu of seafood or steak cuts from around the world. Choose the way you want your steak cooked, including marinade, sauce, and even seasoning, including picks of Himalayan pink fossilised sea salt and Yakima applewood smoked sea salt. There’s full-bodied wine list, too, starting at B1,500 and ending with a 1982 Latour at B200,000. It’s neatly arranged by grape variety, rather than region, and has almost 20 Rieslings alone. Grab a bottle to watch the horse racing on alternate Sunday afternoons across at the sports club.

รร. เดอะ เซนต รีจิส ถ.ราชดำริ

WHERE St Regis, 159 Ratchadamri Rd, 02-207-7777 OPEN Daily 6am-11pm PRICE $$$ snapshots

july 2011

S N A P S H OT S

in the neighbourhood

FOOD WALKS ON THE WILDER SIDE

sk a local where the best Thai food can be found in Bangkok and the chances are that most will direct you not to some swank high-end restaurant but to a gritty curbside. It’s one of the iron laws of eating here. While news of the opening of an upscale new Thai eatery may make the ears of editors (like myself) prick up, for the majority of this food-mad metropolis it’s the wobbly cartson-wheels and ramshackle neighbourhood kitchens that are the true standard-bearers of authentic Thai cuisine. Having sampled more than my fair share of both during my five years here, I’m inclined to agree with them. Over time I’ve come to realise that the less flash the Thai restaurant the bolder, the more unadulterated (not to mention cheaper) the flavours tend to be. The problem for tourists – those not prepared to let their nose and eyes be their guide at least – is that many dare not try them. 12

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“Man, those noodles look tasty, but are they safe?” is a common sentiment expressed by many, fearful of their week of beach bronzing or jungle trekking being cut short by a debilitating bout of food poisoning. Others are put off by the language barrier, the fear of being laughed or shrugged at. What has long been needed, in other words, is a way of educating hesitant newbies about just how safe, accessible and, above all, tasty the local chow really is. Enter Bangkok Food Tours, a new company offering exactly that – schooling in street grazing. During their morning or evening walks, local guides who speak superb English lead you to their top local kitchens, ones they’ve road-tested for cleanliness as well as tastiness and built up a rapport with. They also preorder all the snacks in for you. The aim is to leave you sated in the short term, and streetfood savvy, emboldened to head out on

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intrepid food expeditions by yourself, in the long term. It’s a simple idea, slickly executed. Minutes after arriving at our meeting point, Saphan Taksin Skytrain station, for a Tuesday morning tour of the city’s Bangrak district, I’m strolling with half a dozen others down one of its oldest – and most multi-cultural – roads, Chareonkrung. I’ve been handed a sheet of paper with some food-related Thai phrases and a map plotting our impending ‘tasting locations’ on it, plus a radio earpiece. Aside from making us appear like undercover CIA spooks, the latter enables our guide, Khun Olive, to talk to us all above the roaring mid-morning traffic, even the stragglers who stop to take photos or tie up a wayward shoelace. “Charoen Wieng Pochana”, she announces as our human train comes to a halt outside our first stop, “is a Thai Chinese restaurant founded fifty years ago by Mr Su, who you see sitting up front, and now run by his son, who you see preparing the food”. On sitting down, small portions of roast duck over rice arrive at our table, and our promptly scoffed by all. Taste-buds tantalised, we then make a quick detour to local Buddhist temple Wat Suan Plu (to give you time to digest, guides juxtapose foodtastings with stops at historic points of interest) before reaching our next stop: another hardy old local restaurant, this time a Muslim one. Inside it, somber portraits of the founders – immigrants who fled India during partition – stare down at us as we tuck into sticks of beef satay and curried egg. Again, unexpected and delicious. And so the pairing of local chow with sideservings of culture continues. The rest of the morning finds us hopping across the river to sample a light and fluffy yum pla duk foo (crispy catfish green mango salad) in an alleyway joint; staring up at the red-brick façade of the Assumption Catholic Cathedral; sweating profusely as we amble in scorching mid-morning heat down Silom Road; gasping a sigh of relief on entering air-conditioned Isaan restaurant, Café de Laos, to sample tangy northeastern

dish, somtum; and exploring Silom Road’s colourful Hindu temple, Wat Khaek, with its plumes of incense smoke and hypnotic Brahmin chants circulating the courtyard. Earlier that morning I’d asked the director of Bangkok Food Tours, Khun Kitichai, who their walks would suit best. “Anyone who wants to learn about Thai culture through taste”, he’d replied emphatically. Sound-bite or not, he’s right. Perfect for those who want to be led straight to some of Bangkok’s best culinary treasure, and handed the backstory and cultural context behind it on a plate too, these walks offer food for thought as well as the stomach. I was not the only one left hungry for more. Max Crosbie-Jones Bangkok Food Tours The Historic Bangrak tour costs B1,000 per person and includes 7-8 mini-courses, guide and refreshments. You don’t need to bring much – just a good pair of walking legs, a hat, sunblock, and an empty stomach of course. Currently, the only other tour offered is an evening exploration of Chinatown (6pm-9.30pm), but full day and multi-day tours are planned, says the owner Kitichai. Customisable private tours can also be arranged. 089-126-3657; kitichai@bangkokfoodtours.com; www.bangkokfoodtours.com

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S N A P S H OT S ee

history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic. The core of the new city

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encompasses the Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

It’s a Record Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and ofﬁcial name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise that Guinness World Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

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chronicle of thailand

21 JULY 1969: ASTRONAUTS LAND IN THAILAND

hailand watched with excitement as US astronauts became the first humans to walk on the moon. Neil Armstrong and Edwin Aldrin Jr landed their Eagle Lunar Module on the lunar surface at 3:18am Bangkok time, while Michael Collins remained at the controls above in the Apollo 11 rocket. Many Thais were able to view the moment on the television, despite being told earlier that the transmission had been cancelled due to a technical fault. The glitch did not happen, and the nation saw the delayed pictures relayed from the US, as planned. Thais had also witnessed Apollo 11’s liftoff from Earth on 17 July. King Bhumibol sent congratulations to US President Richard Nixon and the American people. On 28 October, the three astronauts arrived in Bangkok for a four-day visit as part of their world tour. They were greeted by a crowd of more than 100,000, had an audience with the King, and planted their footprints in cement on Koh Sak. “Bangkok has been the best stop-over during our world tour,” Armstrong was quoted as saying.

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com www.bangkok101.com

snapshots

july 2011

S N A P S H OT S ee

Wat Po

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

DID YOU KNOW?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

THE MONARCHY Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. SOCIAL HIERARCHY Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

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at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

LOSING FACE Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (“never mind”). BODY PARTS The head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

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very thai

CUTE

THE SUBCULTURE OF CARTOON MASCOTS

f Disney wrote the recipe of contemporary cute, and Japan baked it as a cupcake called kawaii, Thailand iced it with pink sugar. Thailand, too, cherishes bright, happy, pretty, cuddly, giggly, passive, innocent, non-aggressive playthings. More than that, na rak (cute) resonates with several core Thai values: sanuk (fun sensibility), suay (beauty), sabai (contentment) and kreng jai (deferential consideration). It is also urban, plastic and commercial, and thus pop. That suits another aspiration: looking dern (modern). Cute links heavily to fashion, group affinity, and the teenage search for identity. It’s a tribal badge lasting till as late as parenthood, and beyond. On the body, cute arises in pictorial nail covers, while even people without dental problems get multi-coloured tooth braces to feel they belong. Itself a proof of having friends, the mobile phone is cute-central: screens display smiley faces, messages animate LED teddies, customised cases express your taste, ringtones turn hit songs into nursery jingles. Slogans about friendship riddle cute stuff, often printed in Thainglish to show sophistication. “Freshly & happy all day all night. Friends share stuff with you. They’re funny.

Sometimes they give good jokes,” an exercise book advises. Cute also banishes seriousness. Pretty images soften anything perceived as difficult, dutiful or unpleasant: school supplies, workstations, public notices. The state has learned that a spoonful of sugar makes the medicine go down. Official instructions are increasingly related by smiling cartoon ciphers, projecting a nicer reality. The police love cute. Mannequins and cut-outs of cops oversee traffic. Officers direct the cars from a fiberglass shelter shaped like a huge police helmet, complete with badge. Stickers and fridge magnets of cartoon police spread the law with a smile. The tactic is ‘tell you nicely first’ to avoid confrontation and minimise threat. The greatest adult collectors of cute seem to be office girls, who seek a distinctive identity in the workplace, yet wish to appear passive and conformist. In a fast changing society, cute also reflects a newly extended childhood, unlike macho ‘cool’, which feigns accelerated growing up. Freed from having to help the extended family to farm or trade, teens and young adults suddenly have more time for play, while new industries feed their fascination for cute.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

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snapshots

july 2011

SIGHTSEEING Grand Palace

orientation

Cha

Thewet & Dusit

hr a

Ko Rattanakosin

hray

Chinatown

THONBURI

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

july 2011

GREATER BANGKOK

city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.19) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

is where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.19), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

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the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: PHRA ATHIT Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

d. tR hi At ra

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5: RATCHAWONGSE Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Ra t

KL PHR AO A P BR OK ID GE

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

Rd.

N6: MEMORIAL BRIDGE/ SAPHAN POOD Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

ch aw on

N6 Wat Arun

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det

Phra

Cha

o Ta

ksin

Peninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

Som

SAPHAN TAKSIN The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N2: SRI PHAYA On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Chinatown

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

N9: THA CHANG Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Amulet Market

N15: THEWET Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N13

Wat Mahatat

N8: THA TIEN Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.19) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

N15

N10

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10: WANG LANG Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.34) are all in the vicinity.

RA GE PHRID ET B D O M LA SO K N PI

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

N1 TAK S

IN B

Shangri-la

RID

N1: ORIENTAL The old western quarter. Admire n e g l e c t e d neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

SapanTaksin

sightseeing

july 2011

SIGHTSEEING

SAM PHRAENG

route 101

ust east of the Grand Palace and the stately ministry buildings that flank it sits one of the city’s first business districts, a maze of lanes lined with low-slung shophouses dating back to the King Rama V era. Though Sam Phraeng’s glory days, when Thai Princes and nobility would shop here for luxury imported goods, are long behind it this heritage hood still ticks along by selling Buddhist related items or yummy Thai snacks. As a result, if you want to get a feel for the Bangkok of yore while stuffing your face silly, it’s a must explore. Come early, really early, and you may even get to see monks on their morning alms rounds. To get here from downtown, be adventurous and catch a spluttering Khlong Saen Saep canal boat to the end of the line: Saphan Phanfa Pier. From the exit, turn left onto Ratchadamneon Road – the

city’s Champs D’Elsysee – and you’ll pass the spires of Wat Ratchanatda on your left before reaching the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall. A multimedia museum, it details the history of the Old City, from its birth in 1782 to the all-but-extinct craft-specialties of its shophouse communities. Afterwards, head left down Ratchadamneon until you reach the Democracy Monument. Built in 1939, it is often the rallying point for disgruntled democracy activists (though ironically it was commissioned by a military dictator and it’s design inspired by Italian fascist architecture). Head south, down Thanon Dinso, a leafy lane lined with shophouse restaurants, and you’ll find famous milk-and-toast stop Mont Nom Sod. After mopping up delicious sankaya (Thai custard)

oad Dinso R

ad Tanao Ro

ng mlua Sana

Tanao Ro

Thewasathan ad Muang Ro

noe nN o

Bamrung

riphat

Phraeng Phuthon

Thanon Bo

Trok Nava Sao Chingcha

Samran Rat

epwararam

Th Wat Suthat

sightseeing

kR oad

Phraeng Nara 4

Road

Wat T hepth Wora idaram wiha The Plaz n a Bangko k Soi Samra n Rat

Mahak an Fort

Saphan phanfa Pier

Road

om Sod

Rattanak Exhibitio osin n Hall 1 Mahaj etsada bo Wat R Royal Pavilli din on atcha n a tda Wora wiha ram n

Mahachai

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Rachini Road

ai Road

Sanam Ch Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ministry Of Defense

Tuk D in Wat Mah anparam Worawih an Mont N

Thanon Lak Muang

5 Sanphasa t

oad

Phraeng

ang R

Na Hap Phoei

October th Memor11 ial

Mahannop

Atsad

San Chao Pho Suea 6

Road

Sake

The Supreme Court

Klang

k yo na

noen

adam

Royal Hotel

Bowon Niwet

Ratch

ra Ph

an Ro

ri pa at W

Kao S

Rat cha dam

The Giant Swing

Wat saket

with forkfuls of hot toast here, turn right and pass Bangkok City Hall. At the end of the square, the hawkeyed among you will spot the city’s giant swing, or Sao Ching Cha (as well as the flame-shaped peaks of Wat Suthat, a temple commissioned by King Rama I, behind it). Though the Brahmin swinging ritual it was built for is now banned, it remains one of the city’s most iconic motifs. From here, head down Bamrung Muang road, past the shophouses selling Buddha statues, incense and other sacred paraphernalia, and turn right onto Tanao Road. Simply put, this is one of our favourite parts of town. Branching off Tanao Road are three parallel lanes each named after a Thai prince and lined with Sino-Portuguese style shophouses. Collectively referred to as Sam Phraeng, Phraeng Bhuthorn, Phraeng Nara and Phraeng Sappasart each boasts some of the city’s best preserved old-world architecture while also teeming with cheap, authentic Thai food. Our advice: follow your eyes and nose into the most mouthwatering kitchen shophouses, many of which have been open for generations. One every visiting travel journo seems to gush about is Chote Chitr on Phraeng Bhuthorn, but, be it Nattaporn’s coconut ice cream, Kor Panich’s sticky rice or Khanom Buang Mae Lamead’s taco-like crepes, you can’t really go wrong. After feasting on celestial Thai food at pauper’s prices, and admiring Phraeng Nara’s old wooden school, Talaphan Suksa, double back on to Tanao Road. Spots on it that may be of passing interest include Phraeng Sappasart’s art deco gateway, and the squat, incense-shrouded Chinese shrine Chao Pho Sua. At the end of the road there’s also the October 11th Memorial, which commemorates civilians killed during the 1973 pro-democracy rally. www.bangkok101.com

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang| 02222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm| B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแกว ถ.หนาพระลาน (ใกลสนามหลวง)

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร ผัง่ ตะวันตกของแมนำ้ เจาพระยา

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WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Hike up its 318 steps and this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free This 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect is also an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines, amulets and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism here are available in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ทาพระจันทร สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, Thai and Chinesestyle mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai era statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth.

วัดสุทัศน ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา sightseeing

temples WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tones and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million. Within the compound, the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre is an accessible museum detailing the history of the area and its settlers.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www. watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can learn this ancient healing art.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

july 2011

SIGHTSEEING

The National Museum

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ ถ.เจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 22

july 2011

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑการเรียนรู แหงชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Museum of Siam

sightseeing

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spotlight

HOUSE OF MUSEUMS

f there’s a go-to man on 20th century Thai culture, it’s Anaka Nawigamune. This Thai historian and prolific author has penned over 50 books on the country’s recent past. Teeming with art and photographs lifted from old novels, newspapers, posters and pamphlets he’s hoarded over the years, each one is a fascinating window into a lost age – even when viewed from behind the language barrier. The same can also be said of his House of Museums, the cultural connoisseur’s eccentric pet-project, founded in 1999. Located on a residential backstreet in Nakhom Pathom, this modest townhouse museum presents his stockpile of Thai ephemera from the 1940s and up in a series of evocative (and often interactive) settings that reenact Thai lifestyles back in the day. Take the ground floor. Stirring up nostalgia for a time most Thais forgot – or never even knew – here is a toyshop, a barbershop, a dentist’s clinic, and coffee shop, all bristling with old utensils. Shelves filled with US brands like Brylcream and Ovaltine sit alongside domestic ones, as do advertisements starring models with glinting smiles (the influence of mid 20th Century Americana is obvious). Upstairs, you’ll find all manner of bits and bobs in glass display cases, many donated by people who heard about Nawigamune’s madcap preservation project and wanted in. Kitchen utensils, movie handbooks, old film posters and, our favourite, shelves lined with old Thai potboilers with adorable painted sleeves abound. There’s even a Thai cinema screening the movie of the day. Climb to the top floor and you’ll find Thai folk music from as far back as King Rama V’s era wafting on the breeze that flows through the house. Here, a copy of The Beatles’ Let it Be sits next to LPs featuring dapper mor lam and luk krung artists from the 1950s and 1970s pensively looking left or right of camera. In another corner there’s a school room; another still, a district officer’s office. Photography is encouraged. “How else will a newfound respect for Thailand’s recent history be spread throughout the Kingdom?” seems to be the House of Museums’ thinking. Fortunately, unlike at other retro tourist destinations, that doesn’t translate into visitors using every photogenic thing or backdrop as an excuse to pose for a silly picture of themselves. Downstairs near the entrance there’s a lot to buy, from the aforementioned books by Anaka Nawigamune to postcards of classic Thai adverts, traditional Thai samut (notepads), stationery, sweets and old-style sweets and yaa dom (menthol inhalers). Making these retro knickknacks even more covetable are the brown paper bags, inked with the House of Museums logo, they come wrapped in. For more insights into 20th century popular culture, consider making a short detour to drop by the National Film Archive’s Film Museum on the way home. Here, free tours around a forlorn yet fascinating space filled with old film props and memorabilia are sagely given.

บานพิพธิ ภัณฑ ถ.ศาลาธรรมสพน พุทธมณฑลสาย 2

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GETTING THERE Drive along Phutthamonthon Sai 2 Road toward the railway track or Khlong Maha Sawat ■ House of Museums Sala Thammasop, Phutthamonthon Sai 2, 089-2002803, 089-666-2008 | http:// houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Weekend 10am-5pm ■ Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom |www. nfat.org | 02-482-2013~14 | weekend tours: 1pm weekday tours: 5.30pm | Free july 2011

SIGHTSEEING

historic homes JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) The home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman l a r g e l y responsible for the global popularity of Thai silk, is a must see. In a sun-dappled tropical garden beside a pungent canal, six traditional teak houses brim with the art and antiques he rescued from around Asia: from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Regular group tours led by silk-clad female guides introduce you to these exquisite treasures and the life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ตรงขามสนามกีฬาแหงชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.

บานหมอมราชวงศคึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-2811569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use

by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day.

พระทีน่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ

WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

SHRINES Apart from all the Buddhist temples, Bangkok is also studded with small shrines dedicated to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom The swarming shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main 24

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entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances, offer nine red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

พระตรีมูรติ หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด sightseeing

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Quite possibly Thailand and the world’s most recognisable Hindu deity due to its distinctive appearance, a silent prayer in front of this potbellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, Ganesha is thought to be partial to bananas, ripe mango and sticky rice-flour Thai desserts, so make sure you prepare the correct foodstuffs accordingly.

พระพิฆเนศวร หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด

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KIDS IN THE CITY

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.82) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones. The city’s parks (see below) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.84), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. If you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old.

FLORA LUMPHINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features.

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร) ประเวศ

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JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Subdistrict, Chatuchak | 02-272-4358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around.

สวนสัตวดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5

QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

parks & zoos FUNARIUM (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000sqm of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent on-site café for lunch and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟนเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

SIAM OCEAN WORLD (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’re Thai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing.

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

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SIGHTSEEING

room 101

In every issue, we put our heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok hospitality, uncovering the newest hostels, B&Bs, hotels, and various other cool lodgings that you need to check out on your next stay in this, the City of Angels Monroe

ROOM @ BANGKOK BED AND BREAKFAST

Starfi sh

Dorm

nly open a month, the quirky new Room @ Bangkok Bed and Breakfast – located in a quiet soi just a few minutes walk from Asok BTS station – is already making waves in Bangkok’s hospitality scene. “We just love B&B” says co-owner Khun Jes, as she passes us our welcome pomegranate drink. Together with Khun Rebok, the two friends – and travel fanatics – transformed a dull, six-storey office building into a bright art-themed hotel. Huge bed and breakfast fans, when abroad they always choose the homey atmosphere and individual style of B&Bs rather than globally branded high-end hotels. The centrepiece of the dark lobby is a bright silver couch and gleaming cushions, while adorning the walls are oversized black and white illustrations of Bangkok landmarks, from Suvarnabhumi Airport to the Giant Swing. These were drawn by Rebok, a graduate in fine arts from Silpakorn University. A polished concrete stairway leads you to the 11 theme rooms, which feature names like Monroe, 70’s, and Sabai. We liked the Oh Deer! suite, where a drawing of a stag stares down from above the headboard. The biggest room is Black Rose, a black furnished room with black rose patterned duvet bedspread and wall decal (thankfully for the non-Goths among you, the floor and wall are cream). If you recall your university or boarding school days with fondness, then check into the Dorm room, which features a blue plaid colour scheme, four single beds, and no ensuite toilets (just like uni!). Out of them all, Fun Dee is probably the most locally themed, with a Siam-influenced bed and washbasin. However, probably the best feature of Room @ Bangkok Bed and Breakfast – besides the great service, warm atmosphere, and friendly owners – is the very pleasant roof top patio where complimentary American breakfast is served, and if you’re very lucky, Jes and Rebok will join you in welcoming the new day. Amornsri Tresarannukul

WHERE 8/16 Sukhumvit Soi 16 (Soi Sammitr), Ratchadapisek Road, Klongtoey (near Park Plaza Hotel), 02-653-3335; www.roomatbangkok.com PRICES B1,200- B1,490 per night Black Rose

รูม แอท แบงคอก เบด แอนด เบรคฟาสต สุขุมวิท ซอย 16 (ชอยสามมิตร)

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sightseeing

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Enjoy 25% discount at Le Méridien Hotel & Resort Simply present your Flying Blue member card and receive 25% discount on food & spa at Le Méridien Hotel & Resort Offer valid from 01 June - 31 December 2011. 25% on Food & Spa : Plaza Athénee Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel. Le Méridien Bangkok 25% on Food: Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort Le Méridien Chiang Mai Le Méridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa

Valid only for Flying Blue Gold, Platinum and Club 2000 card member. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with other promotion. Not valid during special events, festival and festive promotion.

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july 2011

T R AV E L

hotel deals

Whether you’re thinking about taking a trip ‘upcountry’ to the jungles of the north, heading on a trip to the little travelled northeast, or planning a weekend on an island in the sun, we’ve uncovered the best of this month’s hotel deals

Until Aug 31 EI8HT with 8vance Purchase dusitD2 chiang mai & dusitD2 baraquda pattaya, dusit.com To celebrate the launch of Dusit International’s lifestyle magazine EI8HT with ‘8vance purchase’ package. From now until August 31 2011, all guests can enjoy the magic of number EI8HT with special accommodation offer at dusitD2 chiang mai and dusitD2 baraquda pattaya. Book 8 days in advance receive 25 per cent off Dusit Best Rate; Book 18 days in advance receive 30 per cent off Dusit Best Rate; Book 38 days in advance receive 35 per cent off.

Until Aug 31 Holiday Saver Holiday Inn Pattaya, 038-725-555; holidayinn.com/pattaya Enjoy spectacular views of Pattaya Bay from all rooms with alll the modern design and practical comfort that Holiday Inn Pattaya has to offer. Make your reservation between by August 31, 2011 for a stay between June 1, 2011 and December 30, 2011, and receive up to 30 per cent discount on room rates, 25 per cent discount for food and beverage including room service, and a guaranteed late check out until 4pm.

Until Oct 31 Honeymoon Package Aleenta Phuket-Phang Nga, 02-514-8112, anchalika@ahmshotels.com Lovers will be seduced by the chic, boutique Aleenta Phuket–Phang Nga with its 4 days 2 nights Honeymoon Package. Spend memorable nights from Ocean View Loft room type at a low B27,000 net up to One-bedroom Pool Residence type for B56,700 net. The package includes scrumptious breakfast served in the room, one mouth-watering meal at the resort’s Chef’s Table restaurant, and a one-hour relaxing aromatherapy massage for two.

Until Oct 31 Thai Residents Special Centara Chaan Talay Resort and Villas Trat; centarahotelsresorts.com Having gained numerous glowing reviews on its services, facilities and location from Thailand-based travellers, Centara Chaan Talay Resort and Villas Trat is offering a special offer to extend its appreciation to Thailand’s residents valid from now until October 31, 2011. During the promotion, a Tropical Suite is priced at B1,900 per night, Family Suite at B2,300, Honeymoon Suite at B2,900, and a prime Beachfront Villa at B3,400.

Until Oct 31 Moroccan Dream Getaway Villa Maroc Resort, Pranburi, 032-630-771; villamarocresort.com This package includes a 2 night’s stay in a luxurious Pool Court room for B19,500, or upgrade to a Pool Villa for B34,500. The package comes with in-room breakfast, a romantic candle-lit dinner with a complimentary bottle of wine, complimentary in room mini bar inclusive of non-alcoholic drinks, a 45 minute Cleansing Hammam couples’ treatment and a 30 per cent discount towards other rejuvenating spa treatments.

Until Oct 31 Stay 4 pay 3 Zeavola Resort, Phi Phi Island, 075-627-024, zeavola.com Zeavola Resort, one of the most romantic resorts on Phi Phi island, is offering a special ‘Stay 4 pay 3’ promotion when you book a luxurious Pool Villa Suite. Book a three night stay in a Pool Villa Suite from now until October 31, 2011 and receive one extra night’s stay for free. Rate is B19,000 per night inclusive of beautiful accommodation, breakfast for two persons at Baxil restaurant and complimentary internet access.

july 2011

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BUDDHIST LENT

upcountry now SPORT Joggers from all over the region will ﬂock to the hedonists’ haven for the Pattaya International Marathon on July 17. The annual lung-burner includes various classes of race (half-marathon; quarter marathon; wheelchair etc) and kicks off on Beach Road, beside CentralFestival Shopping Centre, before the blazing sun rears its head. Check www.pattaya-marathon.com for the times and so on.

Known as Khao Phansa, Thai Buddhist Lent is a time devoted to study and meditation. Starting from the first day of the waning moon of the eighth lunar month (July 16), Buddhist monks remain within their temple grounds and do not venture out again for three months, until the fifteenth day of the waxing moon of the eleventh (Oct 12). It’s a nationwide practice governed more by moderation than celebration, but there are some colourful festivities that tourists can enjoy, including Ubon Ratchathani’s famous Wax Sculpture and Candle Procession Festival. In the temple courtyards of this Isaan city, men folk sharpen their knives and carve impressive Buddhist sculptures, from great big Garudas to representations of Lord Buddha himself. These are then paraded through town and presented as meritmaking offerings. The month long festivities will take place at Thung Sri Muang Park and the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum, and include an opening ceremony between 6-8pm on July 4; a Miss Lent beauty pageant on July 14; and parades through the streets on July 1516. Call 045-243-770 or e-mail tatubon@tat.or.th. Another related festival is Tak Bat Dok Mai from July 14-16. Unique to Saraburi province (an hour and a half’s drive from Bangkok), this ritual festival finds locals offering dok khan phansa – yellow and violet flowers that only bloom during Buddhist Lent – to monks in addition to cooked rice, food, incense, candles and other sacred offerings. As well as witnessing these morning and afternoon meritmaking rituals, you’ll also be able to enjoy traditional folk games, cultural performances and contests. It takes place at Wat Phra Phutthabat temple, in the Amphur (district) of Phra Phuttabat. www.bangkok101.com

FOOD Big discounts on lobster, scallops and other fruits of the sea will be on offer through July at the Phuket Seafood Fiesta 2011. tourism in Phuket and Phang tourists’ stomachs, the event seafood contests, a lobster seafood markets and BBQs.

Aiming to promote Nga by appealing to will include amazing week, and pop-up

IN BLOOM Pinkish-purple Siam Tulips, or Dok Krachiao, will brighten up the northeast’s Chaiyaphum province until the end of August. These wild blooms, with their lotus-leaf like petals, are most easily spotted in the grassy meadows of Pa Hin Ngam (Forest of Beautiful Rock) National Park (044-890 105, entry fee for foreigners B100).

GOLF During Phuket Amateur Golf Week, from July 24-30, there’ll be daily tournaments at some of the island’s best courses, including the Laguna Phuket Golf Club and the Blue Canyon Country Club. The price for competing, B43,500, includes airport pickup, twin-share hotel room, transfers and all course fees. Call 02-714-8470 for more. travel

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T R AV E L

over the border Dave Stamboulis

SIPADAN BORNEO’S WATER WORLD

Photos by Dave Stamboulis and Courtesy of Borneo

hen it comes to diving, snorkeling, and crystal clear water, a lot of folks think of the Red Sea, the Caribbean, or the Maldives, and perhaps more closer to home, of the Similan Islands or Koh Tao. Little do they know that one of the world’s most phenomenal water worlds awaits just over the border more or less, in the wonderful under and above water scenery of the Sipadan and Mabul islands, which are located in Malaysian Borneo. The world’s third largest island, Borneo is made up of three countries. The entire southern half belongs to Indonesia and is known as Kalimantan. The northern half is divided between the Sultanate of Brunei, which occupies a small piece of territory in the centre, and Malaysia, which lays claim to Sarawak, on Borneo’s west side, and Sabah, on the northeast.

july 2011

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From the far eastern coast of Sabah, one is nearer to the southern Philippines than Peninsular Malaysia, and it is here, at the junction of the Sulu and Celebes Seas, where an oceanic island created by a volcanic cone plays host to one of the most diverse and plentiful marine environments in the world. With over 3,000 species of fish and types of coral, Sipadan is considered by many to be one of the top diving spots on the entire planet, often spoken of in the same breath as Palau and the Red Sea. Huge schools of Chevron barracuda, bumphead parrotfish, green and hawksbill turtles, batfish, and plenty of whale and hammerhead sharks are just a smattering of the common inhabitants visitors see in abundance while diving here. Just fifteen metres from the island’s white sand beach, a vertical wall plunges straight down some 600 metres, possibly the world’s best beach dive, giving divers easy access into some astounding marine activity. Lionfish, small reef dwellers, and a large numbers of turtles are always present here, and the wall also marks the entrance to the Turtle Cavern, an underwater tomb full of turtle skeletons that became lost underwater before being able to locate the exit to the surface. The late legendary French marine biologist Jacques Cousteau once said, “I have seen other places like Sipadan, 45 years ago, but now no more. Now we have found an untouched piece of art.” With its warm and calm waters and prevailing excellent visibility, Sipadan could have become another piece of lost art. Ironically, it was Cousteau’s film, Borneo: The Ghost of the Sea Turtle, and its subsequent popularity, which almost brought Sipadan to ruin. The island was more or less unheard of until then. No recorded history of Sipadan can be found until a mention in Dutch government documents around the late 1800’s. At this time, it was governed by the Sultanate of Sulu (a Muslim state in the southern Philippines) which gave local tribes the right to collect and trade turtle eggs from Sipadan. In the 1930’s Sipadan was made a bird sanctuary by British colonists, due to its being a stopover on a migratory bird flyway, and some thirty years later the Sabah government extended this to protect the turtle eggs that were being laid on the island, but none of this brought as great a rush to Sipadan as Cousteau’s film. By 1990, five resorts were built on the small island, and coral reefs began to deteriorate due to untreated waste from the resorts, not to mention the scads of divers and boats heading down to the reefs each day. In 2002, after the International Court of Justice ruled that Sipadan belonged 100% to Malaysia (a bone of contention that had been simmering with Indonesia for over a century), the Sabah government was finally able to implement a conservation plan to keep the tiny isle and its magical waters in a well preserved state, removing the resorts from the island and

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july 2011

T R AV E L ■ DO Borneo Divers and Sea Sports (+6088-222 226; www.borneodivers. info) has been around for over 25 years, and was the ﬁrst professional dive service in Borneo. Besides running operations on Sipadan and Mabul, the organisation has a training centre on Mamutik Island just ﬁfteen minutes from Kota Kinabalu by boat where they offer Open Water and PADI courses in addition to their dive packages around Sipadan.

introducing a permit system with a quota of 120 divers per day (and a maximum of two dives per person). To further ensure that Sipadan remains unspoiled, the Malaysian government is also currently petitioning for the island to become a World Heritage Site. Besides Sipadan, there is much more to explore in the area. Now that overnights are not allowed on the island, most visitors stay fifteen minutes by boat away at neighbouring Mabul, a wonderful spot in its own right featuring shallow reefs and lots of macro marine diversity. Scores of cuttlefish, gobies, frogfishes, scorpion fish, octopus, and moray and snake eels can be seen just off its shores. Additionally, turtles, both Green and Hawksbill are often seen near the various resort jetties, and even the occasional school of dolphin may be spotted. Due to the shallowness of the reefs, even non-divers are able to spot marine life they normally would never be able to see without going to the ocean depths. Mabul has several comfortable resorts, both land and water based, even one built just off of its coast to resemble an oil rig. Additionally, homestays have been set up in the island’s large stilt village community. Being so close to the Philippines, Mabul is home to a large Sulu refugee population, and is also a trading spot for the Bajau Lau sea gypsies, who come ashore in their wooden dugout canoes to trade fish for rice and other staples. All of these locals are extremely welcoming, and their fishing villages with stilt homes a riot of colour and activity, providing a nice cultural diversion from all the undersea wonders. Who knows what the future will hold for Sipadan, perhaps the demands for tourist dollars will overcome local conservation efforts. But for now, it remains one of the true under and above water tropical Edens left in the world, and a spot that visitors seem to return to again and again. Dave Stamboulis flew to Sabah, Malaysia, courtesy of Malaysia Airlines 32

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travel

■ STAY As overnight stays on Sipadan are not allowed, Mabul Island is the choice spot for accommodation in the area. Borneo Divers, who run the region’s premiere diving operation, have now opened these hardwood chalets set in a quiet garden just a few hundred metres from the beach and diving jetty on tropical Mabul (+60-88222 226; www.borneodivers.info). The modern chalets are all air conditioned with en suite bathrooms and private verandahs, and the resort also includes a swimming pool set in its garden, and outdoor and indoor restaurants where communal buffets along with weekly specials such as seafood barbecues are served. Additionally, the Mabul Island Resort has a gear rental shop, an entertainment and conference centre, and Mabul’s best internet connection, not to mention well equipped speed boats to transport divers and snorkelers to and from nearby Semporna town and on to Tawau. ■ GETTTING THERE Malaysia Airlines flights go to Kuala Lumpur with daily connecting flights to Kota Kinabalu or Tawau in Sabah. From Tawau, it is a one hour drive to Semporna, the jumping off point for boats heading out to Sipadan and Mabul islands and further afield. The trip by speedboat to Mabul takes about 45 minutes. Most resorts can arrange pickup at the airport in Tawau, and public transportation in the form of minivans is also available. www.bangkok101.com

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A r M C t m i w l a i y “ g fi a

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hotel focus

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The Shangri-La Hotel, Chiang Mai is a deluxe city resort, complementing the acclaimed Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok

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An impressive landmark, the 281room Shangri-La Hotel, Chiang Mai is located in the prime area of Chang Klan Road, a few steps from the famous night bazaar and only 10 minutes drive from the domestic and international airports. It is situated within nearly seven acres of green lawns, frangipani, bamboo, ginger and lotus ponds. The decoration is influenced by the city’s 700year history and Northern Thailand “Lanna” cultural heritage, with a generous use of teak and open, lightfilled spaces filled with local artifacts and rich fabrics in regal colours. Hotel guests are in an ideal location to explore one of the few places in Thailand in which centuriesold temples and religious monuments stand next to modern boutiques in the heart of the city. Not far from the hotel’s doorstep, guest can enjoy the charms of the city centre, from riverside cafes serving locally grown coffee, to bookstores, flower markets, and numerous soi’s (alleyways) that give Chiang Mai its unmistakable character. www.bangkok101.com

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Kad Kafe is a “culinary theatre café” housed in a traditionally influenced Thai teak structure features Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and European specialties also á la minute with the freshest local ingredients is available. The Dhala offers a wide selection of drinks and international snacks for guests enjoying the swimming pool, while Silapa Thai Lounge & Bar provides flavorful “Thaipas”, Thai food in tapas style, specialties innovatively presented and prepared with a keen attention to detail to bring out the freshest tastes. Meanwhile, CHI, The Spa is nestled within a walled, beautifully landscaped “village,” complete with nine spacious Thai-styled “spa within a spa” villas. In addition to the Asian Wellness Massage is based on the healing traditions, philosophy and rituals of Asian provenance. CHI at Shangri-La Hotel, Chiang Mai also offers Sense of Place treatments derived from the ancient Northern Thailand culture, known as Lanna. travel

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Lbe!Lbgf Address: 89/8 Chang Klan Road, Muang, Chiang Mai, 50100, Thailand Phone: (66 53) 253 888 Email: slcm@shangri-la.com Website: www.shangri-la.com

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art 1-on-1

Bangkok is a hotbed of creative energy, be it in the ﬁelds of fashion, music, entertainment, or art. Each month, our resident Thai art expert Steven Pettifor meets with the country's most interesting artists to discuss their work and views

Sudsiri Pui-Ock The daughter of Impressionist painter Sa-Ngad Pui-ock and a former student of Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook, 35-year-old Sudsiri Pui-ock has great potential among Thailand’s emergent artists. Based in the northern hub of Chiang Mai, previously Sudsiri has used painting, photography, time-based installation and video performance, in her examination of aspects of identity, immersion and acceptance within alien cultures. Life-Living is her latest exhibition, which goes on view at Ardel Gallery of Modern Art from July 26 to August 28. How has this exhibition developed from your last? Though development is often measured as taking the next step, I feel that’s not the only way to get somewhere. That’s why this exhibition is a step to the side, a way of challenging myself with new possibilities, both in techniques and in the concept.

I often have new ideas while my hands are making something, or new things accidently happen while I’m working. If a craftsman was making it on my behalf, he would do it perfectly, but never accidently have these interesting things happen.

Previously your art has dealt with issues of alienation and cultural differences. What is it about rubbing technique Rubbing cannot Have such feelings now subsided? that interests you? tell you what I don’t feel that way anymore. My life has It’s simple and strong. Black pastel on your eyes see, but changed a lot in the past few years. Now I white paper gives such a strong stroke shows you what am finally ‘home’. effect, yet the thin paper gives a very you may not see fragile feeling. Rubbing is a transfer of the Your father is a well-known landscape object to the surface of the paper. In this painter, has he influenced your career? way it is realistic, since nothing is made up Like the good looking girl who gets attention during the direct transfer of the object. It’s almost as realistic as photography, but the results are when she enters a bar, being my father’s daughter opened totally different. Rubbing cannot tell you what your eyes up some doors for me. But it hasn’t guaranteed success. see, but shows you what you may not see. Lines, textures, surface become dark, space between gaps become white. Why do the latest works seem more spiritual in outlook than previously? What are you trying to convey by the huge scale of My 2003 thesis at Silpakorn University, ‘Step Forward’, was essentially Buddhist philosophy. Then, from 2004 the piece Rice Sea? It has to be large because I’m talking about rice fields to 2010, my life resembled a hurricane; “Angry woman” and the sea. I felt a connection between the two when was one comment made about my work in 2005. Now I first entered a tatami room in Japan. In the middle of a though, I have found happiness in everything that matters: hot Japanese summer, the smell of rice straw that hit me in security there is uncertainness, in peace there is change, when I slid open the door made me feel like I was in a in happiness there is sadness, in life there is death. rice field. The partitions of the mats also resembled fields. Interview by Steven Pettifor You employ a lot of organic carving in your art. Do you think it is important for an artist to be hands-on, Life-Living by Sudsiri Pui-Ock runs from July 26 to and have direct contact with their productivity? August 28 at Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, opening I think it depends. Many great artists nowadays don’t reception on Tuesday, July 26 at 6.30pm. put their hands on their works, just conceptualising them instead. That’s absolutely acceptable if the WHERE 99/45 moo. 18 Km 10.5 Boromrachonanee core of the work is its idea. But for me, I just love Road, 02-422-2092; www.ardelgallery.com to work with my hands. That’s why I’m doing art. OPEN Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm 34

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arts

www.bangkok101.com

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free-folding city map containing critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning arts scene

exhibitions

Until July 9 HIDDEN TREASURES Tang Contemporary Art, Unit B-28 (Basement), Silom Galleria 919/1 Soi 19 | 02-630-1114 | Mon-Sat 11am–7pm (closed public holidays) | www. tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak For his ﬁrst exhibition in Thailand, Malaysian artist H.H Lim presents a caged installation that links to a childhood fable pertaining to suggestion and curiosity. Supported by selfportrait paintings, the central cage is a selfcontained environment that holds a chained up suitcase and a seat for visitors to enter into and ponder the unseen contents. Until July 10 BITTER SWEET Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tue-Sat 10:30am- 7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com Young female artist Lampu Kansanoh’s paintings brim with theatrical narratives and an endearing, largely innocent, sense of humour. Centred upon intimate scenes that focus on a speciﬁc incident or gathering, the interplay of her subjects manifests through her acute ability to caricature, delivering deliberately exaggerated dramas with the hammed-up intensity of a Thai television soap opera.

Until July 17 LEGENDARY BIRDS: OIL PAINTINGS BY LI RUI Serindia Gallery , OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 | 02238-6410 | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm I serindiagallery@gmail.com Following on from their last show of Himalayan botanicals, Serindia continues its natural history theme with a series of ornithological studies by Chinese artist Li Rui. A student of painter Liu Xiaodong, Li Rui studies birds in museum displays, as well as out in their natural habitat, recording them photographically. The delicate realist paintings capture the spirit and majesty of the winged creatures.

Until July 27 RONG WONG-SAVUN Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd; 02-234-6700;Tue-Sun 11am7pm; www.kathmandu-bkk.com; BTS Chong Nonsi The second edition of Kathmandu’s ‘Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers’ series showcases the rarely seen snaps of late, trailblazing newspaper columnist and novelist Rong Wong-savun (1932-2009). Featured are selections from his 1954 series on the Rama I Bridge, which used low-slung camera angles that ﬂew in the face of composition rules at that time. It also revisits his hard-hitting pictorial Children of the Garbage Mountain. Raw social realism that captured the squalid existence of Bangkok's juvenile underclass, this 1958 series made such an impact on its publication in Sayaam Rat Weekly magazine that it spurred the government into creating a welfare programme. www.bangkok101.com

arts

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performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Aksra Theatre

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll ﬁnd it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can ﬁnd diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmajor.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular 600-capacity theatre located by the Victory Monument, with an interior lined with wood carvings, experience hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. This is family entertainment of the reﬁned kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร คอมเพล็กซ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to watch contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but also an entire arts complex, comprising of classes, residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions: the shows are world-class because of it.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร

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SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, the performance here is hailed as 'a showcase of Thailand'. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 local performers journey whirlwindlike through seven centuries of storied Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests arrive to experience this spectacle nightly. In shor t, it's a spectacular showcase of eye-popping poignancy.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมรวมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.22), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.22), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.70).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

arts

www.bangkok101.com

TCDC (THAILAND

CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres. These ensure that the scene stays booked with topnotch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more.The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Call or check their website to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly good at opening your WHERE 6/F, Emporium, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4), 02curious international 664-8448, www.tcdc.co.th design concepts; be it BTS Phrom Phong OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon always fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปง คอมเพล็กซ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต

BRITISH COUNCIL (MAP C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคานซิล สยามสแควร

GOETHE INSTITUT (MAP C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ สาทร ซ. 1

JAPAN FOUNDATION (MAP D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

BANGKOK MUSIC SOCIETY (BMS) 02-617-1880; www.bms.in.th BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 02-223-0871; www.bangkok symphony.net THE BELGIAN CLUB OF THAILAND (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (MAP C3)

WHERE 939 Rama I Road, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630; www.bacc.or.th BTS National Stadium OPEN Tue-Sun 10am-9pm The 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls. Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre is nurtures artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm of exhibition space. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแหงกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

www.bangkok101.com

arts

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APEX SCALA (retro 1960s) Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Road, 02-251-2861. BTS Siam.

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, state-of-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.35), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180.The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com. Please stand while the king's anthem is Thai Movies Noy Thrupkaew played in respect to Thailand’s Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok beloved visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited monarch.

to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s bordertransgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com.

july 2011

โรงภาพยนตสกาลา สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

HOUSE (art house) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Road, 02-641-5177.

เฮาส อารซเี อ ถ. พระรามเกา

KRUNGSRI IMAX THEATER 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-129-4631. BTS Siam.

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

MAJOR CINEPLEX RATCHAYOTHIN 1839 Phaholyothin Road, 02-511-3311. BTS Mochit or MRT Paholyothin, then catch a taxi.

เมเจอรรชั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน

MAJOR CINEPLEX SUKHUMVIT 1221/39 Sukhumvit Road, 02-381-4855. BTS Ekkamai

เมเจอรสขุ มุ วิท ใกลสถานีรถไฟฟาบีทเี อสเอกมัย

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-129-4635 or Movie Hotline 02-515-5555. BTS Siam

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7/F, MBK Center, Phaya Thai Road, 02-611-6444. BTS National Stadium.

มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร ถ. พญาไท

FOREVER YOURS (CHUAFAH DINSALAI) Tawee na Bangchang | 1955 | B250 | www.thaifilm.org Imagine it: being handcuffed to your soul mate. Forever. This heaven-or-hell scenario faces the two young protagonists in this enchanting classic set in a logging camp out in the Thai countryside. Handsome Sungmong commits audacious adultery with sassy minx Yupadee, the trophy wife of his elderly uncle. When he catches them vowing their eternal love for one another he, after some evil-villain like moustache twirling, tests their resolve by chaining them together. Suddenly, saccharine 1950s rom-com looks more like sky-crashing Shakespearean tragedy, as they get what they wished for – each other – and go slightly schitzo in the process. Superb cinematography – the ﬁlm hopscotch’s from the sunny optimism of chirruping jungle landscapes to the claustrophobia of an indoors set – dainty costumes, and some delightfully hammy acting make Forever Yours perhaps the prettiest slice of 1950s Thai cinema still in existence. Its slowly souring story – love doesn’t so much conquer all, as crush all seems to be its message – makes it also one of the most affecting. arts

www.bangkok101.com

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, large and small. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom – and look for a branch of Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, or Bookazine EMERALD CITIES: ARTS OF SIAM AND BURMA, 1775-1950 Asian Art Museum | Forest McGill | 224pp | B1,250 Released to coincide with an exhibition at San Francisco’s Asian Art Museum, this lavish coffeetable book is no mere catalogue. As well as stunning photographs and exhaustive descriptions of its exquisite collection of Siamese and Burmese art – from betel nut boxes to scroll paintings depicting the life of Buddha – it also includes three incisive essays by leading scholars. Each one gives historical, cultural and geo-political perspective to some of the region's most beguiling decorative and religious art. They also explode the myth – still trumpeted by culture bureaucrats today – that Thai culture is static, “suspended in timeless tradition”. The museum’s chief curator, Forest McGill, looks at artistic and cultural interaction between the two adversaries. As well as conjecture on why Siam was the only Southeast Asian country to sidestep European colonialism, he opines on why Burmese artifacts from the period are so rare, and how artistic ideas were exchanged (or more accurately plundered) by the two adversaries. M.L. Pattaratorn, a professor of art history at California State University, then sketches Siamese Life during the period, with all its attendant ceremonies and effects. Finally, Peter Skilling outlines the similarities and differences in the two nemeses’ take on Buddhism. Ever admired the region’s luxuriant antiques? This book will help you understand them, too.

www.bangkok101.com

books

THAI THE KNOT Pop Soisangwan | Blacksmith Books| 166pp | $9.95 Our advice if you’re looking to marry a Thai lady? Don’t. Just kidding. Though there are some bad eggs out there (about as many as Western male letches in fact), lots of fairly normal, functional Thai and farang guys and gals do hook up and go on to live happy lives together. Before you sell your house in Surrey and move in with the in-laws in Sisaket, though, pick yourself up a copy of this outspoken little ﬂexi-book, which claims to “untangle the complexities of cross-cultural marriage,” and features mini-essays on topics like ‘are women of different skin different?’ and ‘what do Thais really think of you?’. Two things distinguish it from the usual sweaty-palmed musings on Thai-Farang romance that clog the bookstores here. Firstly, it’s written by a Thai woman who’s married to a westerner, and thus knows all about what Thai women need and expect from their foreign spouses. It’s all here, from the importance of not forgetting her birthday (“you will not believe the consequences”), coming across as stingy and perfecting the hom kaem (Thai sniff kiss), to getting over her irrational quirks, and not making an utter fool of yourself at the nuptials. Secondly, she can write – well. Throughout, Soisangwan keeps things instructive yet jovial. In other words, this book is a bit like the Thai girl of your dreams, fellas – smart, honest, committed to marital bliss, and blessed with a wit and sense of sanuk (fun) that keeps things interesting.

arts

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paradise found

Each month the crate-digging DJ duo behind 'Paradise Bangkok', Chris Menist and Maft Sai, delve into the more obscure corners of the Kingdom’s music. Their label 'ZudRangMa' showcases the best of Thai music: zudrangmarecords.com

Pause for Reflection

s we head towards the summer break at Paradise Bangkok, it’s a good time for reflection. Our first night was held in February 2009, and had an initial big question mark hanging over it. Maft Sai was the only other person I’d met in Thailand who shared the same level enthusiasm for the vintage sounds of 70s Luk Thung and Molam, and indeed the only person who was as into collecting records, period. He shared with me that he told one of this friends about the forthcoming event who replied, “Who is going to come and dance to taxi driver music?” As it turned out, quite a few, and as we celebrate our 11th event it feels good to note the steady numbers, the mixed crowd and the consistent enthusiasm for coming together and enjoying dancing to the experimental side of Thai music, alongside music from West and East Africa, the Caribbean and other countries in Asia. The next challenge is to start taking these sounds further afield, to see how others might react. We’re heading for our third set of gigs in Japan and will be taking ‘Paradise Bangkok’ to Europe in the Autumn In addition to DJing, we’ve also stumbled onto a strange continuum that reflects the various local journeys of sound and music, stretching from Indonesia to the Middle East. Yemeni traders brought coffee, spices, music and Islam to south-east Asia, initially spreading it to what were then independent sultanates, now subsumed into mod40

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arts

ern day Malaysia, Indonesia, and parts of southern Thailand. Further north, the traditions of classical Indian music made their presence felt into south-east Asia, Afghanistan, Persia, and the east African coast, as people migrated and settled. Thailand and Myanmar also bear the marks of this inﬂuence, so when you step back it’s not such a surprise that the music of Ethiopian azmaris, can sit alongside a track by Waipod Petchsuphan, or a Lollywood hit, can segue into the melayu sounds of Indonsia. It’s not necessarily that all these styles of music are directly related. It’s just that they share the regional DNA, which makes it a bit easier when you’re selecting tracks for the danceﬂoor. And what’s particularly encouraging is that this is not cold academia - this is a musical interaction in real time. It’s true, of course, that people at our events aren’t always aware of the different countries represented in the sets we play, but this isn’t important. People dance just the same. We’ve noticed the same reaction to tracks from Yemen as records from Isan. One punter even complimented me once on the ‘Irish’ music we were playing until I gently informed him that it was actually from North-East Thailand! Ultimately, what has made these events so positive for us is that they have been about inclusivity, not specialism or snobbery. Here’s hoping we can retain that special something as we attempt to recreate this elsewhere. We’ll send you a postcard and let you know.... www.bangkok101.com

P H OTO F E AT U R E

SACRED SKIN

P H OTO F E AT U R E

SACRED SKIN U

p close and personal, the photos before you showcase the centuries-old Thai tradition that is sak yant, or sacred tattoos. Writer Tom Vater and photographer Aroon Thaewchatturat recently embarked on a year long journey to research the history and practices behind sak yant, one that took them all over Bangkok and central Thailand, and culminates this month with the release of Sacred Skin: a 200-page book packed with over 170 colour photos and lively, insightful text. “Once we had introduced ourselves and described the project to several tattooing monks and masters, it was relatively easy to find devotees who were prepared to be photographed,” says Vater, speaking about the broad crosssection of Thai society who reveal their second, magic skin in the book. “Our primary concern was to make sure that the dignity of the people we worked with was not touched in any way and that they could express themselves in the images as they felt most comfortable.”

Thaewchatturat’s photos are the books most striking feature, capturing the complex tapestries of Khmer script, geometric forms, Hindu deities and other religious iconography that devotees have painfully, intricately inked onto their skin. But Vater’s writing is just as revealing, delineating the origins of sak yant, and beliefs systems of those who wear them. “Sacred tattoos are said to bestow protection from accidents, misfortunes and crime,” he writes in the introduction. “Young women have themselves tattooed with love charms to attract better partners, while adolescent males seek the protective power of their yant in fights with rival gangs.” Sacred Skin also addresses a common misconception about sak yant: that they appeal only to wayward criminals. Devotees who wear them are given a set of rules by their masters, Vater explains, which they must follow if the tattoo is to work. In other words, rather than making the wearer feel invincible or bullet-proof, and so free to do as they please, sak yant actually help regulate and pacify some of the most volatile members of Thai society. Or, as one tattoo master puts it in this remarkable book, “the sak yant is a powerful reminder for us to stay on the right path.” Sacred Skin, by Visionary World Publishing, is available via www.amazon.com and at bookstores around town now.

P H OTO F E AT U R E

SACRED SKIN By Tom Vater and Aroon Thaewchatturat Visionary World Publishing Available at www.amazon.com and bookstores across the capital.

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dining in bangkok

ood is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way that Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared with everyone at the table; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

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Vertigo

ataste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; ﬂags of all nationalities ﬂy here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round

food & drink

the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites. If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a nonstop gastronomical journey.

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Every month we scour the city to find Bangkok's best restaurant promotions, so that you never have to miss out on a great dining experience; whether it be a candlelight dinner by the Chao Phraya river, brunch in a five-star setting, or a once-in-a-lifetime Michelin quality meal

meal deals

Until Jul 31 marco Polo Vert Lobby Salon,The Sukhothai Bangkok, 02-344-8888, sukhothai.com All month at The Sukhothai Bangkok, sip beautiful ‘Marco Polo Vert’, a green tea carefully chosen for its smooth, natural ﬂavor, and then wed to secret fragrances of fruit and ﬂowers from China and Tibet. This premium tea is best enjoyed with their selection of savouries and enticing desserts. The Sukhothai Afternoon Tea, Mon–Thu 2pm-6pm, B800++ per set. The Sukhothai Chocolate Buffet, Fri-Sun 2pm-5.30pm, B800++ per person.

Until Jul 31 middle Eastern Night Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 02-100-6255, diningcgcw@chr.co.th Until July 31, 2011, Centara Grand at CentralWorld presents Middle Eastern night, where Arabic Chef Mohamed Abdel Hamid and his team prepare a variety of wonderful Middle Eastern specialties including a mezzeh of hummus, baba ganouj, tahini, kibbeh, falafel and taboulleh. Available every Monday from 6pm to 11.30 pm, the Middle Eastern Night special is priced at B1,190++ per person; half priced for children aged between 4-12 years old.

Jul 29-aug 7 alfredo Russo Rossini’s, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 02-649-8364, eatdrinkandmore.com Acknowledged as the master of ‘New Italian Style’ cuisine, Michelin-starred Chef Alfredo Russo’s visits to Rossini’s are always a highlight on Bangkok’s annual dining calendar. Mark your diary especially for Friday July 29, when Chef Russo invites diners to an exquisite wine dinner of inspired Michelin-quality star dining paired with exceptional wines from the Montepeloso Winery. The culinary experience is just B3,600. Advance bookings are highly recommended.

all month Viva La France The Square, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, 02-209-8888; novotelbkk.com In honour of the month of Bastille, The Square on Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square says “Viva La France” every Wednesday throughout July. Amongst the many selections enjoy ratatouille with giblet salad, salad nicoise, pork rillette, seafood bouillabaisse and assorted French cheese. Plus, take some tips home – all of this for the great price of just B850++ accompanied by a sommelier-picked selection of fine French wines at only B100++ per glass.

Ongoing madison Saturday Lunch Buffet Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 02-1268866 ext. 1233, fourseasons.com This new bistro-style lunch buffet created by Executive Chef Nicolas Schneller and his team includes chilled seafood on ice, healthy salads, succulent meats from the grill, hearty casseroles, decadent desserts, and much, much more. The Madison Saturday Lunch Buffet is priced at B1,150++ for adults, including a welcome glass of white sangria or berry tea, and B650++ for children, including a welcome fruit juice. Buffet available every Saturday from 12pm-2.30pm.

Ongoing New Sunday Brunch Experience Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, 02-476-0022, marriott.com/bkkth Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa presents Seafood Sunday Brunch at Riverside Terrace, between 12pm and 3pm. The Seafood Sunday Brunch at Riverside Terrace delivers even more than a memorable combination of sumptuous food and great company. Revel in the value, priced at just B1,199 per person including unlimited soft drinks, draught beer, cocktails and juices, or B1,499 per person including unlimited soft drinks, draught beer, cocktails, juices and wines.

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food & drink

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KANOM THAI

thai fruit It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits, or podlamai. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year.

Try This!

Durian (tu-rian) Seen as the “King of Thai Fruits” it would seem to be very forceful rulers, as everything about it is overpowering. Its humongous size, its intimidating spikes and that awful crippling scent. This fruit definitely divides the population with some reacting with ecstasy while others cringe till they cramp. Its meat, buttery and almost avocado like in texture can be consumed on its own, though other variations are popular, such as Kao Niew Tu-rian, Durian with Coconut Creamed Sticky Rice, Tu-Rian Guan, a sort of Durian Toffee, dried into little Durian Crisps, and sometimes Durian Ice Cream as well. Available all year.

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The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up asThai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide its intense colours.

food & drink

Khao mao Rarely do you think of desserts when discussing cuisine from the northeastern Isan region.This treat involves pounding some young rice and mixing with sugar and coconut. The rice is often popped and mixed with nuts, sesame seeds, and a little hint of salt, resulting in a dessert not too dissimilar from rice-crispy-treats.

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ealikte

Nym

our roving street-food eater nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies are advised to follow her trail., and eat like nym.

RaIDING ThE RED LaNTERN My dining revelation this month, a small joint I call the Red Lantern, serves Shanghai-style Chinese cuisine a stone’s throw from famous red light area, Patpong. Having been skeptical at first, the delights of Hong Teong Long, to give it its original name, were revealed to me by some friends who live in the area. I’m no great authority on Shanghainese cuisine – my natural terrain is Thai food – but having spent time in Shanghai, I can tell you Hong Teong Long is about as close to authentic as you can find here. Start with their siew long pao: steamed dumplings filled with mince pork and a hot broth that demands caution from the eater. I suggest gently biting and softly sucking out the broth, then dipping the remainder in the light vinegar and ginger sauce. Another must-try, one I recall from my time in Shanghai, are their fired stuffed buns. Done the authentic right way, the bottom half is fried in a flat plan to make it crispy, the top half flecked with sesame seeds. The resulting bite features the same blend of juice and meat as the dumplings only these have more body, more crunch to them. Drunken chicken (boiled chicken soaked in Chinese whisky and Sichuan spice) is another favourite. As is their cold cucumber and seaweed salad drizzled in sesame seed oil; glass noodles baked in a clay pot; and, last but least, a bottle of national brew, Tsingtao, to wash down your meal with.

Hong Teong Long (149/16 Soi Anumanrachaton off Surawong road; 02-238 3379) is located just passed the Jim Thompson Outlet shop on Surawong Road. Turn left and you’ll see its red lanterns hanging on the right hand side. Open lunch-11pm daily.

Deluxe

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food & drink

july 2011

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thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients. The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natural 'Eating is always materials persists a communal today; labourand social affair intensive desserts or in Thailand' savoury mousses are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Compared to the West, eating is much more of a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independent one; at the dinner table they’re all meant to be shared. 52

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Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drink

Mu Sa-Te Tom Yam Goong

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong (spicy shrimp soup) Tom kha gai (chicken in coconut soup) Phad thai (Thai-style fried noodles) Mu/gai sa-te (pork/chicken skewers) Som tam (spicy green papaya salad) Yam nua (spicy beef salad) Gai yang (grilled chicken) Phanaeng (curry coconut cream) Kaeng phet pet yang (roast duck curry) Kaeng khiao wan gai (green curry chicken) Phad kaphrao (stir-fried meat with sacred basil) Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts) ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks, including coffee, but there are always some surprises available.Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao (coconut juice) Nam krajeab (rosella flower juice) Nam matoom (bael fruit juice) Nam ta-krai (lemongrass juice) Nam tao hoo (hot soy bean milk) Cha yen (Thai iced tea with condensed milk) www.bangkok101.com

TINY ROOM In 1973, British economist E. F. Schumacher’s seminal WhERE 25/5 Sukhumvit 55 Thong Lor, book announced that, ‘Small 02-381-6788 BTS Thong Lor is Beautiful.’ And so it proves OPEN Tue-Sun 11am-9pm, closed Mon to be at Tiny Room, a petit PRICE $$ new eatery on Thong Lor. A stone’s throw from the restaurant BTS station, it’s a case of blink and you’ll miss it with this restaurant – as many commuters do, as they walk hurriedly past on their way to and from the train. However, at night it becomes a glowing beacon of light surrounded by shuttered shops, with floor to ceiling windows showcasing the open kitchen within. followed these up by ordering all three mains. The first, Tiny Room is the creation of former hedge mentaiko spaghetti (B190), pasta with marinated cod fund manager Inne Yomnak, who six months ago roe, shoyu, mirin, and chopped green onion, is already a gave up her highly-paid job in finance to follow her favourite with Thong Lor’s homesick Japanese salarymen. dream of starting her own business. A long time Our party, however, preferred the lighter taste of the cooking aficionado, Yomnak had always liked to hold ikurai and watercress pasta (B190), the reddish-orange dinner parties for friends and family, when she would salmon roe providing a more subtle and ultimately enjoy experimenting with new dishes, ingredients pleasing flavour. Rounding off our meal was a heartand cuisines. However with a high-pressure work warming chicken pot pie (B220), made American-style environment and long office hours, she never had in a bowl with a flaky pastry top. (Yomnak is currently time to pursue her passion further – until now, that is. working on ideas for dessert and specialised drinks). The concept of Tiny Room is simple – every While the space could do with a little more morning, Yomnak writes up the five dishes of the day decoration and warmer lighting – the look veers a on a blackboard, which she then cooks to order. You can little too close to minimalism at times – a meal here, choose to sit at one of three two-seater tables, or around as you casually chat with the friendly owner as she the counter that runs at a right angle around the open cooks your dinner, feels like you’re dining in her home. kitchen. You’ll find no menus, waiters, valets, ushers, or Though she no longer deals in the higheven dishwashers here – just Yomnak and her Tiny Room. pressure world of financial markets, Yomnak has She cooks the food she likes, which at the moment is a obviously taken the subtitle of Schumacher’s mix of home-style Western and Japanese comfort food. book, which reads ‘Economics As If People The appetisers when we visited were the simply Mattered’, to heart. We recommend that you do dressed but delicious smoked duck and cold beef salads the same with her Tiny Room. Simon Ostheimer (B200 each), the latter with a subtle mustard kick. We ไทนี่รูม ทองหลอ

review

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july 2011

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restaurants

restaurant

RANG MAHAL

review

The pinnacle of traditional Indian fine dining in Thailand, and recipient of multiple awards, Rang Mahal occupies the 26th floor of Rembrandt Hotel & Towers. Upon stepping out of the lift, a side passage leads to a large outdoor deck with west-facing views of Lake Ratchada, and the office towers of Silom beyond. While inside the restaurant itself, floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the impressive views, while grand columns and arches frame the fine furnishings, and traditional Indian artwork. The restaurant’s name is taken from a famed pavilion within the Red Fort of Delhi; royal women’s quarters once part of the capital of India’s Mughal Empire. As befits its imperial etymology, Rang Mahal’s menu emphasises fine dining, covering the sub-continent’s Mughlai, Nawabi and Frontier cuisine, with impeccable service to match. We began our meal with orders of tandoori prawns (B675), large and succulent pieces doused in a creamy, spicy marinade. Waiters then silently glided in to serve portions of burra kebab (B425), delicious chunks of well-cooked mutton, and a helping of the classic Punjabi snack of samosas (B190), served with a slightly sweet side of chutney. Having watched the sun set, our attention switched from admiring the view to appreciating the sounds of the live Indian musical ensemble, playing on a raised platform in the centre of the room. All around them, a mixed 54

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crowd of businessmen, tourists, couples, hotel guests, and expatriate Indians enjoyed the rich atmosphere. Next came the creamy texture of the murgh makhanwara (B395), or butter chicken, Rang Mahal’s best-selling dish of tandoori chicken cooked in a simple gravy of butter, tomatoes and spices. This was followed by the more fiery flavour of the mutton pepper masala (B425); and dal-maa Rang Mahal (B250), black lentils cooked with asafoetida, garlic and tomatoes, and simmered overnight on a charcoal fire. Accompanied by sides of saffron pulao (saffron rice, B225), and lasooni nann (garlic naan, B100), this was a meal to savour over many hours, as we did. However, do make sure to save room for an order of kulfi falooda, Indian style ice-cream made with gently boiled pure milk and flavoured with saffron and pistachio and frozen. In sum, just like its dessert, a meal at the lofty heights of Rang Mahal – be it for lunch, brunch or dinner – is always guaranteed to be a royal treat. Simon Ostheimer

รร.แรมแบรนดท สุขุมวิท 18

WhERE 26/F, Rembrandt Hotel & Towers, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100 ext.7527; www.rembrandtbkk.com/dining/rang-mahal BTS Asok OPEN Lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-11pm PRICE $$$

food & drink

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restaurant

review

WhERE Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoenkrung Road Soi 30, Bangrak (free hotel ferry from Saphan Taksin hotel pier); 02-266-9214; www.royalorchidsheraton.com OPEN 6pm-10.30pm PRICE $$$

GIORGIO’S Italian restaurants aren’t a rarity in this town, but ones that eyeball the river are. The Royal Orchid Sheraton’s, Giorgio’s, is one of the most amiable we’ve come across, with an airy, tropical art deco feel inside, and a breeze-catching terrace, set high above a gentle bend in the river, outside. Steering the kitchen is executive sous chef Gaetano Palumbo, who arrived earlier this year after a successful tenure at Rossini’s, over at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Now, five months into the job, the Sicilian has overhauled the menu completely, swapped out everything but the pizzas in fact. His forte: fresh, light yet rich flavours. Choose from starters like marinated raw scallop Carpaccio scented with tangerine and tiger prawn tartar (B360); or a pastry like slice of whisked baccalà (dried salted cod fish) balanced out with smoother layers of avocado tartar and tomato confit (B350). We also enjoyed grilled portobello mushroom and green asparagus in a light, fluffy mozzarella sauce (B450), and – a less flamboyant entrée – the pumpkin soup (B250). Signatures off the pastas and risottos menu include an excellent prawn and N’Duja spicy salami risotto with a www.bangkok101.com

lovely orange tone and salty seafood slap (B430); and a rich, sumptuous homemade pansotti ﬁlled with roasted veal, and starring trufﬂe essence (B430). Joining this parade of artfully plated pleasures was a superb stewed beef cheek served amid red wine, potatoes and green peas (B780). Having spotted the people on the outdoor terrace – it was an unusually dry, clement night for July – our waitress asked if we’d like to join them. We took her up on the offer, enjoying the breezes and energy of this busy stretch of riverside as we tucked into a rack of four mini-desserts (B420), including a hazelnut cake served with a shot glass of runny gianduia sauce. Backing up the meal was a fresh, crisp Penfolds Chardonnay off the extensive, and well-travelled, wine list (with tasting options). Pairing bold tweaks of the classics with sharp, borderline telepathic service and some of the best river views in town, Giorgio’s is one of that rare breed – a hotel restaurant that’s worth going out of your way for. Max Crosbie-Jones

รร. รอยัลออคิด เชอราตัน ถ.เจริญกรุง

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restaurants

restaurant

BO.LAN

WhERE 42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong, Sukhumvit Soi 26; 02-260-2962; www.bolan.co.th OPEN Tue-Sun 6.30pm-10.30pm PRICE $$$

review

Even here in Bangkok, upmarket Thai restaurants are often uninspired, offering variations on the same list of comforting but forgettable curries, soups, salads and stir-fries. But Bo.lan, opened in 2009 by two chefs, Bo and Dylan, who learnt their trade (and fell in love) at David Thompson’s Michelin-starred London restaurant Nahm, was different. With its uncompromising recipes plucked from antique cookbooks, made using scrupulously sourced regional product, and plated and served in fine-dining style, this bolt from the blue gave the city’s homogenized Thai dining scene a welcome shot in the arm. Now, two years on, Bo.lan is no longer the only hyper-traditional Thai restaurant featuring a foreign chef in town (Thompson opened the Bangkok branch of Nahm at Sathorn’s Metropolitan Hotel late last year), but none of the luster has worn off. At least, that’s the impression we got on our recent visit, when the empty converted townhouse we arrived in at 6:30pm gradually filled up with an even mix of Thais and foreigners until there was nary a table left in the place. For us, the ‘Bo.lan Balance’ set menu (B1.680) is still the way to go, offering a rollercoaster ride through the spectrum of Thai flavours. It changes in line with the seasons every few months, but always kicks off with a palate resuscitating shot of yaa dong, the local moonshine, along with pandanus juice and sour fruits. Then, a tray of five bite-sized amuse bouche – a rose apple sliver topped with crab, a shot glass of southern-style rice salad, etc – arrives, followed promptly by your mains and choice of soup. Some of these are more successful than others, but each one a riddle of intricate, enigmatic flavours (ask and the helpful staff will try to solve it for you). The bhon nai nueang, for example, is a nam-prik like chilli relish featuring steamed herbal-fed chicken breast, served in banana leaf and eaten with obscure – to foreigners anyway – raw fruits, herbs and vegetables. Even more beguiling (not an adjective we use likely when it comes to food) was the gaeng khii lek pla yang (a grilled fish and Siamese cassia curry served with pickled mustard greens and shallots). The combination of deep ochre colour, thick stewiness, boiled khi lek leaves, and compulsive smoky taste made this our dish of the night – one we won’t forget in a hurry. We could go on, but we’ve already hit upon the appeal of this superb restaurant. Bo.lan isn’t cheap, and lays its devotion to tradition on slightly thick, but unlike so many in this town it’s surprising and memorable. Long may the adventure last. Max Crosbie-Jones

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food & drink

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NEIGhBOURhOOD NOSh: LaNGSUaN ROaD Pleonjit

Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

Road

mri Road

Ratchada

Langsuan

Soi Tonso n

Soi Langsu

an 1 4 Soi Langsuan 2

Soi Langsuan

Soi Langsuan 5 Soi Langsuan 6

9 10

Soi Langsuan 7

Sarasin11Road No.43 Italian Bistro

Gai&Joel

eafy Langsuan (a pencil-straight strip of neat tree-lined pavements, gleaming offices and dapper condos just south of the main Ratchaprasong shopping precinct) is packed with international fare, ranging from cheap sidewalk food stalls to ultra-trendy eateries and posh serviced apartment dining. Hop off the Skytrain at Chidlom Station and take Exit 4. Just a stone’s throw from the top of Langsuan, king kong (1) offers a good deal for all you yakiniku (D.I.Y. Japanese BBQ grill) fans. For B450 per person, you get two hours to grill endless plates of fresh meat, veg and other add-ons. Tucked away in a tiny alley on your right hand side, Madam krok (2) makes (arguably) the most delicious tom yum kung in the neighbourhood. Besides generous portions of Thai à la carte and Isaan (northeastern) dishes, the big pull is the prices (B30-65). Further down, no.43 italian Bistro (3), on the ground ﬂoor of the Cape House Serviced Apartments, offers the best lunchtime buffet in the area. Pony up B350 for all-you-can-eat rustic Italian classics and a fair few Thai crowd-pleasers as well. If you’re craving something sweet, pop into the Natural Ville Executive Residence’s Parisian-style café Le nôtre (4) for a Millefeuille, éclair or some other gloriously decadent French pastry. Two new head-turning joints have landed in the past year. Housed in an allwhite townhouse, Gaggan (5) is a one-of-a-kind Indian restaurant. Chef Gaggan Anand learnt his tricks at Spain’s world famous school of molecular gastronomy, El Bulli. The results are often transcendental, unlike anything you’ve ever tasted in a curryhouse anywhere. The other, Gai & Joel (6), is a classy neighbourhood restaurant run by a married couple and with an adventurous menu of “global ﬂavours.” Prefer streetfood to swank fare? Narrow Langsuan Soi 6 (7) turns into a tasty-but-sweaty food market, swarming with white collar workers, every weekday lunchtime. Due to redevelopment of the area, many of the stalls have migrated to Tonson Market (8): an open-sided canteen serving all sorts of cheap Thai food, from khao kluk kapi to kua tiew. Other notable restaurants include Thang Long (9), a creative Vietnamese restaurant done out in wood and black slate. Next door, Home kitchen (10) or Krua Nai Baan serves up excellent seafood and authentically spiced classics in not one, but two converted Thai townhouses. The dim sum also gets a thumbs-up. Last up on Lang Suan, ramshackle old-timer ngwan Lee (11) serves Thai Chinese food until 3am. Try the aor suan (oyster fried in egg batter), hoy laay phat nam prik paow (clams stir-fried with chilli sauce and Thai basil), and fried crab with curry powder. Gaggan

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food & drink

july 2011

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river cruises

Grand Pearl

RIVER DINING CRUISES

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 per person, depending on how well you dine, and last an average of three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner, though this should be conﬁrmed ahead of time. It’s also wise to make advance reservations. manohra

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food & drink

july 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

restaurants ThaI SRA BuA Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd | 02-162-9000 | Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, Daily 6pm-11pm | $$$$ If there’s another Thai restaurant with the playful approach of the Siam Kempinski Hotel’s Sra Bua, we haven’t heard of it. The Bangkok cousin of Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin is thrilling culinary theatre. A flower pot arrives with a carrot – leavesand-all – sprouting from the top. It’s embedded in green curry mousse, a cooling cream followed by a stab of chilli, with hints of coconut and a topping of biscuit crumbs that add sweetness and texture. Om klong soup comes as three tiny jellies with broth on the side, so you taste the soup in varying textures and flavours; and red curry here is ice cream with lychee foam and slivers of lobster and fruit. Liquid nitrogen, poured tableside into the supporting bowl, releases clouds of atmospheric smoke across the table. The taste is smooth, cold, creamy and sweet, with sharp blasts of onion. The aim is traditional flavours wherever possible, though the impressive results are less intense, dancing a refined waltz around the mouth, rather than the jitterbug that locals love so well. Dinner is a choice of two set menus, five courses (B1,800) or eleven (B2,400), and there’s a selection of five wines to accompany for an extra B2,400.

โรงแรมสยามเคมปนสกี้ ถ.พระราม1

LAn nA THAi (map D4) Face | 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02713-6048 | www.facebars .com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm | $$$ This proudly elegant restaurant/bar/ spa venue has taken the Thai wooden house of yesteryear as its inspiration and muted, sensual opulence as its mantra. Everywhere you look there is a towering Buddha statute gazing back at you, or a lustrous silk wall hanging acting to be fondled. Teak fetishists should brace themselves. At Lan Na Thai delicacies from the Northern provinces are sprinkled throughout the menu like piquant confetti while assorted Thai standards bring substance to the party. Not everything on the menu is a screaming success but the Chiang Mai sausage, colourfully laced with chilli and garlic, is exquisite while the steamed sea bass with lime juice and chilli is huge, ﬂuffy and damn near perfect. The soft shell crab, meanwhile, is juice, oily and lip-smackingly moreish and – if your credit has not been overly crunched, the mango cheesecake is what dreams are made of. Very naughty dreams.

ลานนาไทย ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.38

INTERNaTIONaL SAM’S FiSH & CHiPS 146 Phiphat Soi 2, Soi Convent | 02-2347335, 089-115-2789 | BTS Sala Daeng | 5pm-10pm |$$ Located down quiet Phiphat Soi 2 off Convent Road, this fish ‘n’ chip mecca is located on the roof of – guess who – Sam’s house. Bored by the idea of retirement, and looking for something to keep him busy in the evenings (he still has a fulltime consultancy

Sra Bua

july 2011

food & drink

job during the day), Manus ‘Sam’ Surapisitchat struck upon the idea of opening his own restaurant. Rightly, he reasoned that his own home would make the ideal location, and set about converting the unused rooftop into a fully functioning eatery, complete with open kitchen, landscaped garden, and wealth of rustic charm. Upon entering, the roof is accessed via a timeworn spiral staircase, with guests emerging from it onto a vegetationfilled, atmospherically-lit dining space. Although the menu contains some Thai dishes, the largely expatriate clientele mostly come here for the Western favourites, including dishes such as panfried prawns (B98), lobster soup (B69), New England style clam chowder (B69) and John Dory (B98) with chips (B39). The latter is without doubt one of the best value – and best tasting – fish ‘n’ chips you’ll find in Bangkok. However, the true attraction here is Sam himself, a gregarious and generous character always willing to share a story and a drink, usually quite a few of the latter.

แซมส ฟช แอนด ชิปส ถ.คอนแวนต

HiDDEn STuFF 72 Ekkamai Soi 22 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-2162 OPEN 4pm-midnight, closed Tues | $ With a lawn just perfect for lingering on, this 1970’s style townhouse is great for party night warm-ups or mid-week gettogethers far from mainstreet madness. Like other funky townhouse garden restaurants we’re fond of (namely Ari Soi 3’s Reﬂections), there’s an element of challenge to dining here, or rather getting here to dine – you have to hike deep into Ekkamai suburbia to find it – but the schlep is totally worth it. Inside the two storey building with polished concrete ﬂoors (and, on our visit, the mouthwatering smell of freshly baked chocolate sponge wafting through it), you can sit on cute warm-wood furniture, amid modern art, racks of trendy clothes and homey bohemian clutter, most of it for sale. But without doubt the coolest seats at the Hidden Stuff house are actually outside it: the www.bangkok101.com

Crepes & Co

big coloured beanbags that straddle low white tables out on the lawn. The food – eclectic creative Asian with a kick – includes dishes like tom-yum sauce with glutinous sticky rice, and lemongrass chicken with french fries, while drinks range from boozy concoctions to scrumptious non-alcoholic peach sodas.

ฮิดเดน สตั๊ฟ เอกมัย 22

CRÊPES & Co. 88 Thonglor Soi 8 | 02-726-9398 / 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 | www.crepes.co.th | BTS Nana / MRT Thong Lo / Asok | 10am-11pm/ 9am-midnight Founded out of a desire to serve the very best crêpes in Thailand, over the years Crêpes & Co. has expanded on it’s original remit to become one of the city’s best-loved restaurants, a place as popular for its all-day brunch as it is for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The place represents the collective spirit of three brothers: Philippe, Olivier and Serge. Of Swiss-Bulgarian parentage, their childhood was spent living in Morocco, Spain and Greece. It’s this unique heritage that informs the menu. While the original branch is housed in an old Thai family home surrounded by a lush, tropical garden, their second is modern and sleek and on the chichi street of Thong Lor. The menu, however, is the same at both: year-round bestsellers include the multicourse all-day brunches (B250-B490), as well as à la carte options (kids menu available), and of course dozens of creative crêpes. Drink include fresh fruit juices (B80) or lassis (B95), and an excellent range of wines, beers, cocktails and their signature homemade sangria (B130). Indeed, nearly all the dishes on the menu either come from traditional family recipes or treasured childhood memories – it’s this dedication to authenticity and the finest ingredients that stands them apart. Of course, an excellent menu is nothing without good hospitality – something they’ve also perfected.

เครปส แอนด โค ทองหลอ ซ.8

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food & drink

july 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K FRENCh BouCHoT (map D4) Oakwood Residence, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-258-5510 | 6am10:30am, 11:30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-midnight | $$-$$$ Bouchot has a creative touch that belies its serviced apartment location. It stands alone, so you don’t need to walk through reception, and it’s accessed by descending stairs into a faux Parisian street scene, complete with café tables and atmospheric shop facades. It’s an ideal introduction to a cosy, basement bar and bistro whose speciality is French- and Belgian-style mussels. Imported every Monday and Thursday, the shellfish are served in half or full kilos in a silver metal bowl, accompanied by either French bread or fries and a choice of sauces. They’re best to eat with your hands, accompanied by a glass or two of house wine (four choices from B220). A half kilo is good for two people, and those with middling appetites may find that’s enough. Otherwise, there’s also a list of appetisers, salads and pastas and a few crowd-pleasing mains such as rack of lamb, salmon and rib eye. Desserts include a good crème brulée and a so-so banoffee pie. In sum, mussels are the stars of the Bouchot show, but the rest is also extremely decent bistro fare. Bon appétit.

โอควูด เรสซิเดนท ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.24

ITaLIaN RoSSini’S (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-888 | www. luxurycollection.com/bangkok | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$$ This beauty of a restaurant is a dramatic yet cosy place where well-dressed local gourmets come for an intimate night out, filled with fantastic food. Tiled floors, huge exposed beams, cream-coloured walls – and fireplaces! It’s a Marchese’s summer house in Umbria. All this can be a bit intimidating (especially when you’re not dressed to the occasion, though no one would ever remark on this), but arriving prepared guarantees delicious hours. The brand-new chef has injected the regular menu with some of his creations. He obviously loves his aquatic creatures and he excels in preparing them in a simple, but excelling way. The classic Italian food is authentic and makes no concessions to wimpy likings: ﬂavours are strong, spices abundant. For watered down stuff you better go somewhere else.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ถ.สุขุมวิท

JaPaNESE TEn Sui Sukhumvit Soi 16 |02-663-2281| 11:30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm | $$$$ Modeled on a ryotei (an exclusive, referral-only type of Japanese restaurant where discreet business lunches take

Bouchot

july 2011

food & drink

www.bangkok101.com

place, often in the company of a Geisha),Ten Sui is handsdown one of the best – and most expensive – Japanese restaurants in town, offering first-rate hospitality and food in a traditional gated Zen garden setting. The second the sliding wooden doors are peeled back by the kimono-clad female staff, revealing a converted Thai townhouse with range of seating options (sushi/sashimi bar; conservatory with leather sofas; private tatami mat rooms upstairs), you know this place is the real deal. And the food confirms it… the kitchen sources all its ingredients from Japan, even presenting dishes on different lacquerware in different seasons (as is the face-gaining Japanese tradition). The affordable lunch set menus here offer the best value, and you can order off a lavish à la carte menu; however if you’re keen to splurge we recommend calling ahead to book a kaiseki. Ten Sui’s specialty, these multi-course set menus can be customised to your tastes and budget, and typically star a selection of elaborate seasonal dishes that you’ve probably never heard of, let alone tried. Think touyama kaki dohfu (savoury clear soup with oyster and egg dumplings, white tree jellyfish and mitsuba honewort), or simmered tilefish stuffed with grated yam and garnished with edible Chrysanthemum. Accompanying these intricate works of culinary art is perhaps the one of the city’s best selections of imported sake, which caps off a truly excellent meal.

เทนซุย สุขุมวิท 16

Rossini's

TenSui

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food & drink

july 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

brunch

No matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the 'City of Angels' serves up a brunch to suit all tastes; whether you're looking to have fun with the family, or simply soak up the Sunday sun.

brunch

PANORAMA

review

A relative newcomer to the ultra-competitive Sunday brunch market, the first thing that strikes you about Panorama is its opulent gleam. Occupying the 23rd atrium floor of the Crown Plaza Hotel (formerly the Pan Pacific), the wood and chrome accented main dining room is a boldly designed and elegantly refined space, dominated by two glass-fronted open kitchens with black marble serving tops. Daylight spills in from a section partitioned behind a glass wall and sliding doors at the far end. With its sinuous rattan furniture, wood finishes, bar counter, and views across the city, this is the best spot in the place – well worth calling ahead to reserve a table for. Once you’ve picked up a plate and begun browsing, the second thing that strikes you is Panorama’s emphasis on live cooking and imported protein. One long counter is filled with raw meat on ice, including dory, black cod and salmon fillets, sundry steaks, and Toulouse sausages. Another showcases imported shellfish – from langoustines, whelks and periwinkles to hunks of rock lobster and Alaskan King crab – plus sushi and sashimi. Other corners boast ready-made dishes, pastas, dimsum, a salad/smoothie bar, oysters, cheeses, a Thai corner, and desserts. It all adds up to a humungous WhERE 23rd Floor, Crown Plaza spread, one so expansive Bangkok Hotel, 952 Rama IV Rd that you’d need two, maybe BTS Saladaeng even three, trips to even get mRT Silom TImE Mon- Sat close to sampling everything. 11.30am-2.30pm B707 net | Sun Accompanied by a Sauvignon Noon - 3pm Price B1800 net Blanc (B490 for two glasses) and widescreen city views, highlights of our leisurely two-hour chowdown included peppery soft-shell crab, panfried salmon, sala paow, rock lobster, and plate of zesty citrus crepe suzette. Throughout staff promptly deliver the fresh-made to order stuff to your table, and whisk away spent plates. Chefs, including head chef Matt Dodell, are on hand to recommend dishes to the indecisive. Sprogs are also well looked after, with a corner devoted to them, and face-painted clowns with pocketfuls of tricks doing the rounds in search of tables to baffle and entertain. Lightly sprinkled with guests on our visit, Panorama is not yet mentioned in the same breath as Bangkok’s long-running brunch stalwarts. If they keep up this level of across-the-board quality, and reap some well-deserved word-of mouth, though, we have no doubt that it soon will be. Max Crosbie-Jones

รร. คราวน พลาซา กรุงเทพ ลุมพินี พารค ถ.พระราม 4

july 2011

food & drink

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dim-sum

LOK WAH HIN If you ﬁnd yourself having a ‘dim sum dilemma’, unable to decide on where to venture for this exquisite dining experience, give Lok Wah Hin, on the second ﬂoor of the Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square hotel, a whirl. Resembling an ancient Chinese courtyard, this elegant – but modestly priced – jewel of a restaurant breaks with tradition and serves dim sum with a tantalising Thai twist. The over 300 item menu goes beyond your ordinary Cantonese morsels like har gau (steamed shrimp dumplings), presenting unique creations such as ‘chicken tom yum style’, which looks like traditional dim sum but packs a spicy surprise. Other artistic dim sum items, such as the delicately fried, fan-shaped shrimp wonton and the deep fried taro with minced pork, which looks like a dragon’s beard, get extra points for presentation. Dim sum isn’t all Lok Wah Hin has to offer. Master Chef Chan, from Hong Kong, also brings his expertise to bear with the Peking duck, which is a must-try here – especially on Tuesdays, when there’s 50% off the usual price. Here you can enjoy it wrapped in dough pancakes, minced with cabbage leaf, or even stir fried with scallions and sauce. Still hungry? This July, you are also invited to savour Lok Wah Hin’s specially created ‘Good Old Days’ menu. Introducing the kind of home-style cooking normally reserved for the kitchens of real Chinese housewives, it stars timehonoured provincial dishes like kao yok-style braised Chinese backon, braised pork spare ribs with Shanghai sauce on hot plate, shredded pork, and steamed tofu stuffed with shrimp paste.Yvonne Liang

WhERE Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 Rama I Road; BTS Siam; 02-209-8888 OPEN 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:00pm-10:30pm PRICE $$

รร. โนโวเทล สยามสแควร ถ.พระราม 1

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food & drink

july 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

DESSERT VENUES

dessert

desserts

review

PH1B COFFEE BAR

WhERE 39 Soi Paholyothin 11, Paholyothin Road, Phaya Thai, 081-173-2600; Facebook: PH1b Coffee Bar BTS Ari OPEN Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-7pm PRICE $$

The first thing I noticed about PH1b Coffee Bar, a fair while before I’d even arrived, was the sweet aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Following my nose, I soon came across a small white building; home to a pizza restaurant and my destination, the newly opened PH1b Coffee Bar. The open space has a typical café feel; with low-light, comfy couches, scattered coffee tables, blackboard menu, and acoustic music soundtrack. The name PH1b (‘peeaitch-one-bee’), is an abbreviation of Penthouse Room 1b, the address for the apartment the four co-owners – also siblings – shared while studying in the U.S, which was always full of friends visiting, chatting, eating, hanging out and having fun – PH1b is their attempt to recreate that time. Getting back to the coffee, I ordered a hot white ‘Lavazza’ mocha (B85). Served with a stick of cinnamon, the balance was perfect, neither too strong nor sweet. My companion, meanwhile, chose a green tea Tokyo breeze (B125), ice frappe poured on a layer of red bean. The drink itself was deliberately not sweet, allowing the rich flavour of the bean to permeate. PH1b’s recommended desserts are their three waffles: we opted for the lemon cream cheese waffle (B175); cream cheese sauce and a drizzle of lemon syrup paired with a scoop of iberry tiramisu ice-cream (other waffles come with either blueberry or strawberry), a perfect pairing. Finally, combining our dual passions, we ordered an affogato (B110). The Italian word for ‘drowned’, this is iberry Horlicks ice-cream topped with whipped cream and pistachios, over which you then pour a strong espresso. Much like PH1b, it’s perfect to share with friends. Pattarasuda Prajittanond

พีเอชวันบี ซ.พหลโยธิน 11

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Pamper yourself with Sunday Brunch Buffet from 11.00-14.30 hr. at one of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Restaurants, rooftop Rang Mahal. The cuisine ranges from traditional signature Indian dishes to popular Middle Eastern favorites and kidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu. Accompanied are live Indian music and magician show.

Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02-261-7100 (Ext. 7532-3) restaurant@rembrandtbkk.com

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food & drink

july 2011

NIGHTLIFE

one night in bangkok

Opposite Attracts

Masters of Bleep: Mahajamreon

Who are they? There’s eight of them, all Thai, from Pong on the bass and synths, to vocalist and turntable fx technician Khae, and Nong on Guitar. The Style: Electronica you can chill, sway or wig out to, from covers of dance music luminaries like Groove Armada, to smooth drum and bass with ethereal Thai chants over the top, squelchy trance, vocoder soul and Faithless-esque mellow-outs. The Buzz: Rather than strumming guitars like every other Thai band out there, these guys and girls play machines – really well. Formed in 2006, they earnt a ﬁercely loyal following over at Parking Toys, on Kaset-Navamin, but have recently raised their game, playing heaps of gigs and becoming ﬁxtures on the local festival circuit. Where can I catch them? At RCA’s Mellow Yellow on Fridays at midnight. www.mahajamreon.com

Established by WTF partner’s Somrak Sila and Chris Wise, Opposite is a new multi-purpose event space just across from the hip, Sukhumvit Soi 51 shophouse bar. A 60m² white canvas with an Electrolux kitchen and a soundproofed iron door to keep the neighbours happy, it’s already shaping up as the nerve centre for impulse artistic expression. Events so far have included live gigs, book launches, and the city’s ﬁrst pop-up restaurant, an Isaan Picnic featuring food by Soulfood Mahanakorn’s Jarrett Wrisley. Word is that cooks are queuing up to host the next, the ﬁrst in line likely to be a chef from Rome. Whether you’re interested in attending one of these happenings, or staging one there yourself, their website has it all: www.oppositebangkok.com.

Bubbling Heights

Another new bar with a view, the St. Regis Bar (at the hotel of the same name on Ratchadamri Road) overlooks the greenery of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club’s golf course. Accompanying these desirable views are renowned drinks such as the Bloody Mary, ﬁrst created at the St. Regis New York in 1934, and served here with a distinctly Bangkok twist, as the bar’s signature drink, the Siam Mary. The feature every socialite in town is talking about, though, is its Champagne Sabering ritual, performed at 6:30pm each evening. Popularized during the Napoleonic era, this unique tradition, common only to other St. Regis Hotels around the world, entails separating the collar from the neck of a champagne bottle with a saber. We’ll be enjoying the resulting glass of overﬂowing bubbly – and bringing you a full review – soon. 68

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Kacho Bar

A new sky-bar has landed, this one 37 stories high, perched atop the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel’s South Tower and with views over Sukhumvit Soi 22 and beyond. They appear to be trying to lure in the cocktail sluggin’, house-music lovin’ twenty or thirtysomething. The opening party, BKK In Da House, saw the great and the good of the local house DJ circuit, like Saint Vincent, spinning, and there are DJs lined up for Friday nights. Further proof that they are clearly trying to be down with the young adults, they even have a Facebook page (type Kacho bar into your search box). www.bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE

bar

CLOUDS

review

“I like building bars, not running them,” confesses Ashley Sutton, the Australian entrepreneur who has emerged, over the past year and a half, as the mad scientist of Thonglor’s bar scene. Having got the area’s hi-so bar hounds buzzing with his first two concoctions, Iron Fairies and Fat Gutz, his latest is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where “there are no more natural resources”, Clouds – a slim polished concrete shell at the rear of Soi 13’s SeenSpace lifestyle mall – appears to owe a nod to Silent Running, the 1972, ecothemed science fiction film in which all plant life is extinct bar for a few specimens that have been preserved in a lonely spaceship’s greenhouse. A living tree, encased in plate glass in the right corner, and the tables – concrete blocks topped with rubber tree leaf-encasing acrylic – create the unsettling sense that nature is now a mirage, having been usurped by the synthetic. Ashley’s pride and joy – a ceiling of miniature toy H-bombs that bob up and down on strings via an intricate system of pulleys – meanwhile is a wry (and pleasingly hypnotic) comment on the consequences of mankind’s atomic follies. Drinks only underscore the impression that you’ve wandered into a cross between an ultra-modern mausoleum to nature and a space station watering hole. Behind the open bar cum kitchen, “NASA technicians” in white overalls mix cocktails (B280) created by Joseph Boroski, the same ‘mixultant’ from New York who contributed the ‘sunken ship’ themed tipples over at Fat Gutz. One not to miss is the Cloud 9: a delicious, tangy blend of Ketel 1, dragonfruit slices, marjoram, lime, orgeat served in a whisky glass with a thick steel straw. To keep your head from drifting above the clouds and out into orbit – drinks are potent – there are also snacky pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven and served in steel trays. Later on, a DJ spins acid jazz, and a foxy female dancer in army garb sits atop one of the blocks, sternly polishing her gun and blowing bubbles onto the earthlings sat on the funky stools below. Ashley has done it again. This is one clean, sexy mothership of a drinking hole, one that’s not quite of this planet. As the crew from Star Trek might say, if they were beamed down from the Starship Enterprise to investigate, “It’s a bar, Jim, but not as we know it”. Max Crosbie-Jones.

“It’s a bar, Jim, but not as we know it” WHERE G/F SeenSpace, Soi 13, Sukhumvit 55 Thonglor, 02-185-2365 OPEN 6pm-2am (Closed Sun) PRICE $$

คลาวดส โครงการซีนสเปซ ซ.ทองหลอ 14

july 2011

nightlife

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Before you go clubbing in Bangkok, know that stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, hotel clubs at 2am. The legal drinking age is 20, and all patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry, and absolutely no smoking inside

clubs and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4, 02-632-7982. BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom. Daily 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. Bed Supperclub

Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274; www. qbarbangkok.com. BTS Nana. 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a ﬂirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin

& Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs danceﬂoor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching

Q Bar

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nightlife

ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537; www.bedsupperclub.com. Daily 7.30pm-1am With its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: ﬁne dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is deﬁnitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขมุ วิท ซ. 11

july 2011

NIGHTLIFE Calypso

Route 66

Cabarets CLUB CULTURE (map B3) Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall), 089-497-8422; club-culture-bkk.com. Wed-Sat 8pm-late Club Culture comes from the brains behind the city’s much-loved annual dance music festival, Culture One. After being evicted from its home, a former Thai theatre on Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this faux-colonial, four-storey warehouse in the Old City back in early 2010, much to the relief of its regulars – a cross-cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning expats. Like the old days they aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, drum n bass and house music of all genres.

คลับ คัลเจอร ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง (หลังนิทรรศรตั นโกสินทร)

DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa), 02-711-6970. BTS Thong Lo. Daily 8pm-1am. Entrance free. Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thonglor area is Demo – a former tenement building turned dark, grafﬁti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a cool terrace and bar outside, and lots of space to throw shapes inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d ﬁnd teeming with hipsters in East London or, maybe, at a push, Berlin. It sounds like one too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop 72

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and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Demo offers an impressive range of beers, shots and cocktails and on weekends packs in a much more ‘inter’ crowd than its nearest rivals.

เดโม ทองหลอ ซ.10

ROUTE 66 (map E3) 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue; route66club.com. Entrance free for Thais, B200 foreigners (including two drinks) On the strip for 16 years, ‘Route’, as it’s affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. Once you’ve ﬂashed your id at the burly bouncers, you’ve entered something akin to a brash nighttime themepark for the hard-ofhearing. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town). ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands cover local and inter hits in ‘The Novel’. Rammed with groups of dressedto-kill Thais on weekends, most of them loaded on their drink of choice, whiskeesodaa, Route is not a good place to lose your mates after one too many but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the relatively chilled outdoors area. Drinking tip: do as they do and split a bottle between you.

รูท 66 อาร ซี เอ

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Road, 02-294-7381. Show times 7.15pm, 8.30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm). Price B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel, 296 Phaya Thai Road, 02-216-8937; calypsocabaret.com. Daily 8.15pm & 9.45pm. Price B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

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Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-ﬁlled streets? Fancy a breather from the smog? Then take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where you can survey the glittering skyline below.

bars with views

Threesixty

In sum, this is ‘Millennium’ magic, as long as you have a head for heights.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and heart-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya.

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Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks.

nightlife

LONG TABLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน สุขุมวิท ซ.16

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NIGHTLIFE RED SKY (map C3) Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | BTS Chit Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am After you’ve blown your baht at megamall CentralWorld, head up to Red Sky for some perspective. Encircling the 56th ﬂoor turret of the adjoining CentaraGrand Hotel, this swanky glass-wrapped al fresco bar offers city panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades to black, and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs, and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes roam the scenery. A daily happy hour (50% off selected wines, beers and cocktails between 5-7pm) and smooth service make the experience all the more memorable.

รร.เซ็นทาราแกรนดแอทเซ็นทรัลเวิลด ถ.รามา1

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 |6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu.

รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www. banyantree.com | 5pm-1am 74

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Red Sky

As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, 02-624-9555; www.thedomebkk.com Daily 6pm-1am High ﬂiers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful nightlife

of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple), 02-221-9158; www.arunresidence.com Daily 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, soursweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterranean-themed Amorosa. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a fourstorey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or instead come later, when spotlights make it glow against the night sky.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

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CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-2098888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 10pm-2am | facebook.com/conceptcm2 The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in fourteen years after it ﬁrst opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the danceﬂoor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the international live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? It is a bit; but still a fun (and eye-opening) night out. International/Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s strongest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร สยามสแควรซ.6

BEERVAULT (map D3) Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 |BTS Asok | 02-304-3200 |www. fourpoints.com|11.30am-12pm Lower Sukhumvit may be studded with noisy Brit, Irish and Aussie pubs catering to beer lovers but ironically none can match the brew selection of the Four Points Sheraton’s snazzy little hotel bar. Only 80 count ‘em paces from Sukhumvit Road, this snug glass and brick box with a colour-changing column lined with ﬂatscreens dangling over its central bar, serves no less than 48 bottled brews and six on tap (as well as wines and shandy and beer cocktails to keep the ladies happy). Many of them hail from Belgium, making the BeerVault the ﬁrst serious downtown alternative to the ever popular Belgium beer bar Hobbs, over on Thonglor. Quite apart www.bangkok101.com

hotel bars & clubs

CM2

from its thirst quenching qualities, however, the BeerVault is a convivial spot, one we recommend for early evening drinks. Thanks to its streetside location and ﬂoor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows overlooking it, it feels more like a buzzy standalone boozer than your usual bleak hotel bar, and as well as happy hours from 5:30-7:30pm, there’s a free salad bar.

รร. โฟรพอยทส บาย เชอราตัน ถ.สุขุมวิท 15

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house,

hip hop and techno are banned; inhouse DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s ﬁnger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not ﬁnger food as you know it. Joining these bites is a new menu of creative cocktails priced at B400 net, live music every Friday and Saturday from 10pm (the B699 cover charge includes two drinks), plus a slew of specials. Drinks between 5:308:30pm on weekdays go for B250 and include free hors d’oeuvres, and ladies can enjoy drinks for just B150 net per glass each Wednesday from 9pm.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ระหวางสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

CM2

BeerVault

nightlife

july 2011

NIGHTLIFE

bars CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252-6572 | BTS Chit Lom | 6pm-1am; closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays of the month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety holein-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in the- know to ﬁll up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (ﬁrst on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok ginpalaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชารลีย ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

HYDE & SEEK (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www. hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ This ﬂash downtown gastro bar with a spacious outdoors terrace draws the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t 76

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break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind New York’s successful Kittichai, while the bar is fuelled by regional cocktail consultancy Flow. The sleek, Georgian inﬂuenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, artisanal cocktails or Belgian ales.

แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ ซ.รวมฤดี

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084- 520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor |www. theironfairies.com Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — that just happens to serve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam ﬁlmset. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine. It’s time to get with the fairies.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่สแอนดโค ซ.ทองหลอ

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini | 02-286-1558 | Mon-Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Yet it attracts a ﬁercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barﬂies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the nightlife

WTF

The Iron Fairies & Co

Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02- 626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www. wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm- 1am (gallery open from 3pm) This tiny shophouse – signposted by grafﬁti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. Occasional leftﬁeld live gigs, art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and a mix of local indie hipsters, NGO workers, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with, make this one of the hippest and most cerebral drinking holes in the city.

ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

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AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with ﬁve tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to ﬁnd on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly.

live music

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

BRICK BAR (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

RAINTREE PUB (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

รานจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย

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PARKING TOYS (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage (here the choice of name becomes a little clearer) it’s a pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it.

decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. In sum, it offers great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reafﬁrming fun. Reservations are a must for large groups.

โรงเบียรเยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

ปารคกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other nightlife

Saxophone Pub

Brown Sugar

july 2011

NIGHTLIFE

Bamboo Bar

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Road, 02-649-8888; sheratongrandesukhumvit. com. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Daily 10am- 12.30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch, a veritable institution.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ระหวางสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

july 2011

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft

nightlife

teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-proﬁle crowd ﬁlls the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buy-

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one-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-yearold bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical ﬁlm noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A deﬁnite big Bangkok must, even if just the once.

รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jawdropping jazz venue. Each night its dressy crowd soaks up that cameragrabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Cynthia Utterbach. Her sultry renditions – spanning bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร

NIU’S ON SILOM (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am Located not far from the Chao Phraya, this New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry

and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available.

นิวส ออน สีลม บานสีลม

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ. สารสิน

Niu’s on Silom

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Brown Sugar

nightlife

july 2011

NIGHTLIFE

pubs

Balcony Humidor

CIGAR LOUNGES pub

review

DURTY NELLY’S

Durty Nelly’s follows the winning formula that has seen Irish pubs thrive in all corners of the Western world. First, décor. Use dark wooden furnishings, put up vintage alcohol posters (those with the Guinness toucan work best), and incorporate a ubiquitous symbol within your logo (a leprechaun, say, or perhaps a four-leaf clover). Second, drinks. Line up the usual selection of ales and stouts on tap (Guinness and Kilkenny, for example), and supplement with beers popular in your local market (such as Singha, Tiger and Asahi). Third, dining. Put out a simple menu with run-of-the-mill staples. Except that this last point doesn’t apply at Durty Nelly’s. Instead, what you ﬁnd is one of the most extensive and downright delicious menus in Bangkok. It’s obvious they take their food seriously here, so much so they’ve brought in a chef from Northern Ireland to run things. Executive Chef Sam Reid heads up a large kitchen team of 11, a necessary size when his menu covers half the table when folded out (it really does), and he WHERE 56-56/1 Soi Sukhumvit makes almost everything 63 (Ekkamai), 02-714-2692, in-house. Being a Saturday, www.durtynellysasia.com we settled on the Weekend BTS Ekkamai Roast (B300/two courses, OPEN 10am-1am B350/three courses), an especially fantastic deal for families as children eat for free. With such a large menu (and thus ingredients) to maintain, you’d think Chef Reid might struggle to maintain standards across the board – but you’d be wrong. Everything we tried, from the ﬁsh cake with horseradish veloute to the lamb shank in red wine sauce to the panna cotta with pineapple ‘salsa’, was unbelievably good. Is Durty Nelly’s ‘Pure Irish? Not really. But with a menu this tasty it doesn’t even matter. Simon Ostheimer

เดอรต้ี เนลลีส ซ.สุขมุ วิท 63

july 2011

nightlife

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ BALCONY HUMIDOR & CIGAR BAR Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 CLUB PERDOMO BANGKOK 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight LA CASA DEL HABANO The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com P&L CLUB GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898 www.bangkok101.com

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still ﬁnd some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

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Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

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nightlife

SHOPPING

spotlight

Every month, we throw a spotlight onto one of Bangkok’s malls or markets, selecting the shops you need to check out, what to buy from them, as well as all the information you need to know on how to get there and navigate around

Baan Ekamai Bangkok is blessed (or cursed, depending on your opinion of them), with a glut of lifestyle malls; small, outdoor shopping centres that mainly cater to the city’s “hi-so” (high society) class. With a high-end blend of retail, F&B, and leisure outlets, they make for a more social, if expensive alternative to the mega malls found in the city’s Siam district. Last year, however, the concept was taken in a new direction by Baan Ekamai, Bangkok’s first lifestyle mall for hipsters.

ooking for a location to open their own stores, Thai fashion designer Thytatratchaphum Saratjaroonsub and Hong Kong-born entrepreneur Donnie Tsui decided to open their own lifestyle mall, spending some 2 million baht to renovate a traditional two-storey Thai wooden house that they call: ‘The House of Everything’. “I think families – and celebrities who like some privacy while they’re shopping – love it here,” says Tsui. “It’s a relaxing and tranquil atmosphere.” Unlike its contemporaries in the chi-chi Thong LorEkamai area, which lies east of the CBD, you’ll find no fast food outlets, bowling alleys, or chain coffee stores at Baan Ekamai (“baan” means house in Thai). Instead, the ground floor houses a branch of owner Tsui’s Cocue Basics (cocuebasics.tumblr.com), which features the latest fashion from South Korea, Japan, and Hong Kong, as well as a “retro corner”, filled with vintage shirts, jeans, Tees, trainers, shades, and jewelry. Next door is co-owner Saratjaroonsub’s boutique store Heidi’s Secret, where the Australian-trained designer sells his line of modern-vintage clothing that places emphasises on “good cutting and lots of detail.” The last part of the fashion triumverate is tiny vintage shop Him & Her, owned by actor Ploy Horwang, while upstairs, Felice serves homemade pasta and cakes on its small outdoor terrace. However, the smallest space is saved for second floor record shop ZudRangma (www.zudrangmarecords. com), arguably the coolest of the bunch. Co-owned by none other than our Paradise Bangkok columnist Chris Menist (see Arts) and Thai DJ Maft Sai, this is the place in Bangkok to buy vintage recordings of Luk Thung, Luk Krung and Molam, styles of 1960s and 70s Thai funk that are making a comeback. If you like what you hear, then it’s worth checking out one of the duo’s semi-regular series of Paradise Bangkok club nights. Simon Ostheimer บานเอกมัย ซ.ทองหลอ20 WHERE 77 Soi Chamchan, Ekamai 21 or Thong Lor 20; www.baanekamai.blogspot.com BTS Thong Lo 82

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shopping

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SHOPPING

Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society; malls here are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are also restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and much more

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

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SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults alike, who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

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SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

E R AWA N B A N G KO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal art from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

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EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Very chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

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CENTRAL CHIT LOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

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ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom All-white interior features glitzy, top-class brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

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JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

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Demand for unique-to-Thailand fashion is on the rise. In celebration of this happy fact, each month we cross-examine one of the labels driving this long term trend, be it a rising star with a point to prove, or a local powerhouse

fashion 1-on-1

The Alchemists’ Seksarit Thanaprasittikul Young Thai designer Seksarit Thanaprasittikul is a rising star in men’s fashion, with playful yet cutting-edge looks that are inspired by journeys of travel and discovery. Having studied under the likes of famed Belgian designers Wim Neels and Ann Demeulemeester, he has gained critical acclaim for his signature waistcoats and deconstructed button-down shirts. Why the name? Ever since I first began studying fashion design, I have always been inspired by the stories of travellers. Before my graduation, I read ‘The Alchemist’ by Paulo Coelho. It tells the story of a shepherd boy who decided to travel to find treasure. I found it very touching and inspiring, so when I started my own fashion line, this name was the only one that seemed right to me. Describe The Alchemists’ signature style. The Alchemists’ derives inspiration from travellers who pursue their dreams and follow their spirits. This idea of independence and freedom is translated into nonchalant and alternative menswear collections. It features understated details with playful, ‘untidy’ elements, including twists, creases, asymmetrical lines and layers. Just as the alchemists tried to change metal into gold, we similarly believe in a continuous and transformative journey of design. How did you get your break in fashion? My stylist friend introduced me to P’Mai (designer of Headquarter By Realistic Situation), who later introduced me to P’Ford (Kullawit Laosuksri), formerly editor-in-chief of Elle Thailand. P’Ford then invited me to participate in Elle Fashion Week as a young designer. How did you feel when you saw your clothes on the catwalk at www.bangkok101.com

“Just as the alchemists tried to change metal into gold, we believe in a transformative journey of design”

manages their collections and products in the international f a s h i o n arena, I also learned how they each maintained their distinctive identity in their creations. Those experiences were invaluable lessons for me, which I could never have gotten from school.

the 2007 Elle Fashion Week? After all my hard work, the nerves and anxiety I had before and during the show turned into indescribable pleasure. I will always appreciate the opportunity given me by P’Ford and Elle. You’ve interned with various European designers, including Wim Neels in Antwerp, Ann Demeulemeester in Paris and Carol Christian Poell in Milan. What did you learn from them? The internships really opened my eyes to the fashion industry. Apart from practical insight into how each brand shopping

Tell us about your latest collection It is basically a continuous progression from my previous collection, in that it is an experiment in combining the way we wear our clothes and carry our bags when travelling. Adventurous elements are combined with tailoring, with strong inspiration from life jackets. What are your essential tips for men’s wear? Be individual and stay true to yourself – wear what feels right. Interview by Pattarasuda Prajittanond The Alchemists:WWA Store, Shop 428, 3/F-4/F (above Swensen’s), Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-4686. Mob.F, 4/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1115; www.the-alchemists.in.th july 2011

SHOPPING

jatujak market

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, citysized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the ﬁ ttest: only those with ﬁnely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally

take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites).

All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for more spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. The Jatujak market of Bangkok, Amber House Books, B1,950, hardcover 86

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shopping

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JJ Gem

of the month Kham Luang

Located in section 25, opposite the Bangkok Bank, this ramshackle two storey shop is a poster child for recycling. For the last 17 years, Khun Aree and her brother have transformed all manner of waste into an incredible array of environmentally-conscious home décor items. These include ﬂowers made from recycled paper, tribal-looking masks that were once toilet rolls, and used seeds converted into musical wind chimes. Remarkably, every single item on sale was handmade by the pair. Prices vary, with WHERE Section 25 Soi 3/1 nothing costing over B500. Room 182-183, 02-735-1325, Pattarasuda Prajittanond aree03@hotmail.com

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14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

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1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

Chatuchak Park Station

Mo Chit Station

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SHOPPING

markets

While the fancy designer, air-conditioned malls of Siam grab much of the attention, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, there’s no better way to discover the local retail experience than by heading to one of the city’s many interesting markets

Talat Rot Fai

TALAT ROT FAI (THE TRAIN MARKET) Kamphaeng Phet Road | Mrt Kamphaeng Phet | 6pm-midnight Saturday and Sundays This retro-inflected flea market just around the corner from Jatuchak Weekend Market is well worth the trip, for its hipster vibes and camerafriendly setup as much as what’s sold there. Hundreds of antique hounds and retro-mad dek neaw (teen hipsters) flock to this plot of State Railway department land on Saturday and Sunday evenings to browse and bargain for vintage collectibles, reproductions and fashions. And yet, the chance to pick up a beat up old Michelin Tyre sign, a vintage BMX, or a smelly pair of old trainers is only part of the appeal – flanking Talad Rot Fai is a row of decommissioned train carriages. You can take a stroll through them at your leisure, even kick back on the dusty seats with a cold beer or rocket soda. Backing up the carboot side of things is Rod’s: a railway warehouse turned 20th 88

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century antiques wonderland. And there are lots of snacks and drinks stalls (retro-inflected, naturally), many of them operating out of customised VW vans. Hop aboard, while you can.

ตลาดรถไฟ

RATCHADA NIGHT MARKET Saturday Nights | In the area from BTS Parking lot to The Criminal Court – Ratchadapisek | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas shopping

aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

SILOM ROAD/PATPONG Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are definitely essential here.

สีลม/พัฒนพงษ

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KHAO SAN ROAD Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in ‘novelty’ T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere new, sometimes bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of youngat-heart stuff are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale.

ถ.ขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (FLOWER MARKET) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a

SHOPPING TIPS

■ Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

เทเวศน

SUKHUMVIT ROAD The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat ■ Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. ■ Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real.

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shopping

all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

PRATUNAM Less than a ten minute walk north of CentralWorld, this sidewalk shopping maelstrom is famed for its bulk clothing deals and huge crowds. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress and great jeans at affordable prices. Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.

ประตูนำ้

■ VAT: When shopping, look out for signs advertising ‘VAT Refund or Tourists’. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7 per cent on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you queue up to buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. A word of caution: if you are making large purchases and not being asked to pay VAT, you aren’t guaranteed they are quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th july 2011

WELLNESS

spas

Bangkok probably offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. In each issue we help you find the best rub-down for your baht, there’s no need to break the bank in order to get a good treatment URBAN RETREAT SPA (MAP D3-4) 31/10 Soi Promjai, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-2008-9 | www. urbanretreatspa.net | 10am – 10pm |$ This accurately monikered little dollop of indulgence is tucked away off Sukhumvit, down soi 31 and around a corner. It’s a walkable, pleasant even, 5-minute wander to reach this place, with its sleek white-framed, glass-panelled front. Upstairs there’s a curtained hallway lined with mattresses primed for traditional Thai massage, with fresh towels folded so expertly into orchid shapes they should be entered into an origami bathware contest. Although the multi-limed delights of the Four Hands Massage are also offered here, we recommend, the Urban Touch treatment: a hybrid healer combining Thai twists with the strokes influenced by Indonesia and manipulation from the Maldives.

HARNN HERITAGE SPA (MAP C3) Siam Paragon, 4th Fl | BTS Siam | 02-610-9715-6 | 10am-9pm | $$$ Before you drop from shopping at the monster mall that is the Paragon, stop in here for a spot of soothing. An extension of the high-end Harnn beauty product line, this tiny spa is all Thai, all the time, and offers excellent, traditional therapies. Done up entirely in black stone, the rooms are small but high-ceilinged to compensate for tight quarters. Despite the excellent layout, however, rooms can feel cramped and crypt-like. Once a treatment begins, any claustrophobia melts away – the signature package, which includes a thorough sesame scrub, a very relaxing oil massage, and a hot sesame compress applied to key meridians on the body, is a very complete pampering session. Staffs are wonderfully professional and personable. Done relaxing? Pick up some Harnn products to continue the spa experience at home.

เออรบนั รีทรีทสปา ซ.พรอมใจ สุขมุ วิท 39

สปา 1930 ซ.ตนสน ชิดลม

SPA COST

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ All credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

สยามพารากอน

july 2011

SPA 1930 (MAP D3) 42 Soi Tonson | BTS Chit Lom | 02-254-8606 | www.spa1930.com | 9:30am-9:30pm | $$$ The Achingly cute fake-timbered heritage building, straight out of a Grimm’s fairy tale, houses a spa that is so popular it’s difficult to get a reservation. Maybe it’s been featured in too many Asian travel magazines? At any given time, Singaporean and Hong Kong Chinese await their treatment in the welcoming reception area (complete with a library), which feels so intimate that you’ll think you’ve entered a private residence. The list of treatments is very traditional – no fancy shmancy here, just good old spa classics. The signature treatments are excellent, but you might be tempted into a marvellous 4-Hands Massage or an Herbal Pack Treatment. The handful of packages is quite respectable, too. Efficient therapists work in softly lit, simply decorated rooms. A welcome surprise is the fact that no music is piped into the rooms so you can relax totally – or maybe nod off while listening to your own breathing.

wellness

www.bangkok101.com

lanna

COMMUNITY

sports MUAY THAI (THAI BOXING) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after

Muay Thai Institute

july 2011

Muay Thai

MUAY THAI VENUES LUMPHINI BOXING STADIUM Rama IV Road, 02-251-4303. MRT Lumphini. Fights Tue & Fri from 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000 B1,500, B2,000

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

RATCHADAMNOEN STADIUM Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684. Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6.30pm-11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000, B1,500 ,B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for community

your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. CYCLING SPICEROADS 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2, Sukhumvit 39, 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680; spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours across Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The eye-opening Cycling SpiceRoads daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in other parts of Thailand. www.bangkok101.com

Each month the author of How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand, Philip Wylie, helps demystify the minutiae of doing exactly that, from negotiating bafﬂing bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

CASE-STUDY: OASIS SPA “Thailand is a country which allows people to realise their dreams instead of shelving the ideas until a day which never arrives”, says Toby Allen, an American who moved from Florida to live in Thailand back in 1998. Since moving here, he has become one of the most successful expat entrepreneurs in the north, having first established an orphanage in the remote northern district of Fang and then a chain of popular luxury spas. For him, the first hurdle – forming a charitable foundation in the mountainous area of northern Thailand –was a bureaucratic marathon lasting eighteen months. He had to provide evidence that the project was humanitarian and free of any self-interest, because the legal status of a registered foundation facilitates fund-raising and sponsorship by NGOs. Today, the orphanage comprises seven buildings, on 25 rai of land, and accommodates fifty orphans. Toby lived and worked in Fang for four years until 2002, when he and his Thai partner, Pakin Ploywaen, decided to research the market for luxurious health spas in Chiang Mai. At that time there were 35 spas in Chiang Mai, of which just ten provided a full range of health treatments. With this in mind, Toby and Pakin decided to develop a mid- to upperclass spa, offering traditional health treatments including Ayurvedic massage, aromatherapy and herbal treatments. The result of all this research, Oasis Spa, opened in 2003. As of 2011 there are four Oasis Spas in Chiang Mai and one in Bangkok. Their clientele includes members of the royal family, politicians and media stars; in other words, the brand is successful. Toby and Pakin complement each other, each bringing something different to the table. Toby is responsible for administration, planning, control systems and

business 101

marketing. Pakin’s expertise is in personnel development, training, customer service and aesthetic design. Toby believes the reason for their success is partly down to their staff recruitment and training policy. It takes up to twelve months to train each employee, and staff development for them is a long-term investment in what they deem to be a business’s most valuable asset. Good character and personality are the key qualities Toby and Pakin seek in their recruits. Age, beauty and experience are relatively unimportant. Today Oasis Spa employs 150 people in five locations, many of who were employed immediately after completing their university education. Half of the employees are therapists and the rest are support staff (including buyers, accountants, call-centre staff and drivers). Oasis Spa’s most potent marketing medium is referral and repeat business based upon high quality service. Toby judiciously promotes his brand in magazines (although he says there is a lack of quality magazines in Thailand reaching the high-end Thai market), at brochure stands, on their websites and with standard referral agreements (at hotels and other appropriate venues). Each of the Oasis spas is linked by a sophisticated computer network, allowing real-time, multi-location reservations management. This system enables call-centre staff to divert drivers to a different centre if a spa becomes fully booked. TOBY’S TIPS - Take special care of your employees, train them to provide a high quality service, and pay attention to details - Consider the quality of a magazine’s distribution when planning your advertising schedule. CONCLUSION Toby’s first mission in Thailand was the establishment of the charitable foundation (with his own money). He made a valuable contribution towards Thai society before starting his business. The key theme throughout the development of Oasis Spa has been quality control, particularly in relationships with partners, employees and customers. For additional information about Oasis Spas, visit their website: www. bangkokoasis.com

This article has been reproduced from Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand with permission from Paiboon Publishing. The second edition, is scheduled for publication by Fast Track Publishing (fasttrackpublishing.com) in November, and will be updated with detailed new case studies and a chapter on sustainable business.

www.bangkok101.com

community

july 2011

COMMUNITY

classes

works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint.

บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ์)

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi, 02-294-9029; baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Road, 02-673-9353; blueelephant.com. Prices from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with apron, knives and wok, each student

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-222-6011; mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng. Free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน

MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Road, 02-622-3551, 02622-3533; www.watpomassage.com. Daily 8am-5pm. B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction

area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทยแผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Building, 87/104 Ekamai Road, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-711-5270; chivasomacademy.com. BTS Ekkamai. Prices from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu.

ชีวาศรม อินเตอรเนชันแนล อะคาเดมีโมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

Chiva-Som Internationnal Academy

july 2011

community

www.bangkok101.com

Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile local causes you can become involved with. Every issue we highlight the work of a worthy charitable organisation, and provide details on how you too can help

making merit

SOI CATS & DOGS LAUNCHES ‘1000FOR-CHANGE

midst the splendour of Bangkok’s temples and its busy streets, thousands of cats and dogs endure a miserable existence. Their plight is largely ignored. Soi Cats and Dogs (SCAD), a nonprofi t volunteer organisation established in 2002, helps to change that by improving the lives of Bangkok’s strays. Through realistic programmes of animal birth control, education and adoption, SCAD has helped over 5,600 street dogs and 2,800 street cats since its inception. There have been 862 adoptions and 133 of those were to homes in Canada, the USA and Europe. Now, with a continual stream of desperate cases, the organisation is seeking new members through the 1000-For-Change regular giving program. Launching the initiative, SCAD’s general manager, Wendy Edney, stated, “with more and more desperate animals coming to our attention every day, sometimes the task in front of us can feel overwhelming. We want to do more, but are often hampered by the lack of a secure revenue stream. We truly need hundreds of people to join with us as a member of 1000-For-Change. If successful, with each member donating just 1,000 baht per month, our ability to provide ongoing animal welfare services will be truly revolutionised.” Sachli Salarpour is a major donor and a long time supporter of SCAD’s work. “I began supporting SCAD after being incredibly saddened by the state of the street animals I would see here in Bangkok every day. I was impressed when I saw what SCAD was achieving. I have seen first-hand that small actions really can make a huge difference to each animal helped and the communities they came from. I hope others will join me as a member of 1000-For-Change so SCAD can continue its vital animal welfare work, aiding street cats and dogs and benefi ting the communities in which they live.” www.bangkok101.com

A small charity, SCAD delivers mainly though a small staff and a group of dedicated volunteers. To join 1000-for-Change, or to help SCAD in any way that you can, please go to www.scadbangkok.org or call 084717 8511.

community

july 2011

REFERENCE

getting around

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th AIRPORT RAIL LINK A 28-km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangkok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 96

july 2011

Bangkok’s heaving trafﬁc is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors alike. However, river and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the roads 6am-midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: half an hour) and costs B15-45 per journey; the Express Line stops at downtown station Makkasan only and costs B150 (journey time: 15 minutes). Until the end of 2011, as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers, express trains will also whiz between the airport and the last stop, Phayathai, the only one that intersects with the Skytrain, at half hour intervals (journey time: 18 minutes). The price for this promotion is B90 one-way, B150 for the roundtrip. Is the rail link worth using? That depends on where you’re coming from or heading to. Even if you’re staying centrally, you’ll find that an extra journey by taxi, tuk-tuk, skytrain or foot, and with luggage in tow, is probably necessary. http:// airportraillink.railway.co.th

time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

RIVER CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much reference

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with tuk-tuks, fares should be negotiated beforehand.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. www.bangkok101.com