Bangkok 101 - May 2011 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

may 2011 100 baht

t h r o u g h thailand’s t h e e y e shot s o ftalent his kingdom

metrobeat: PRAYA DINING sightseeing KOLKATA food & drink IZA festival ROYAL PLOUGHING CEREMONY may 2011

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

Before Show by Thanabordee Boonpa

may 2011

Taking our cue from an imported TV show that has gripped the nation in recent weeks, May’s photofeature Thailand’s Shot Talent is both a celebration of amateur Thai shutterbugs and a stage for them to flaunt their talents on. Compiled thanks to the kind permission and hard graft of the 4toArt Group, namely its founder Naret Singusaha, it features our pick from this online photo collective’s galleries from the past year. Turn to p.40 for incontrovertible evidence that Thais can be just as inspiring behind-the-lens as they are treading the boards. Elsewhere, in Daytrip we chomp our way around Chachoensao’s Baan Mai, a sepia-tinted old riverside market flush with tasty food stalls. In Festival we profile the city’s Royal Ploughing Ceremony – which will, we’ve been assured, be taking place at the Old City’s freshly renovated open field, Sanam Luang, on May 13 – while in Over the Border we discover the city of Kolkata is a heady, disorientating confluence of cultures. Our list of columns grows by the month: Ask/Art grills curator Angkrit Ajchariyasophon about the BACC’s broad Chiang Mai Now! exhibition; new column Fashion 1 on 1 talks to the cherubic female boss of men’s clothing label Painkiller; and business guru Philip Wylie outlines the pitfalls of doing business here and how to dodge them. Paradise Bangkok DJ Chris Menist also traces the career of Noppadol Duangporn, a “true auteur of the Thai music scene” he says. Restaurant reviews include recent new arrivals Thonglor’s Iza, Di Vino and Bonchon, the Riverside’s Praya Dining and Soi Ari’s Tanyamama. And while on the subject of new arrivals, we’ve revamped our One Night in Bangkok. Now it covers new openings, the hottest bands, and other news and goings-on in the Bangkok neonosphere. This month’s Metrobeat meanwhile lists the best of the rest, mostly concerts, theatre, dinners and arts festivals that take place under cover. This glut of indoorsy activity is not mere accident, but the city making allowances for the rainy season, which tends to arrive sometime in May but seems to have commenced walloping us early this year. Despite the temptation to sit in and watch the lightening forks, we hope all the above inspires you to grab your brolly and get out there. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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contributors 4toArt Group B a n g k o k based website, www.4toart. com, was created by professional photographers together with art and photography teachers to discuss and promote photography in Thailand. Curated with the help of one of its founders, Khun Naret Singhausaha, this month’s photofeature, Thailand’s Shot Talent, features pictures submitted to its galleries by snappers from all corners of the country over the past year.

Philip Cornwel-Smith Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Simon Bonython A native of Adelaide, South Australia, Simon Bonython first came to live in Thailand in 1969 and has had a long and successful career in business. During his time in the Kingdom, he has also combined his addiction for photography with his passion for travel, publishing three books: The Jatujak Market of Bangkok, which the pictures from this month’s photofeature are taken from, Discovering Isaan, profiled in Bangkok 101 last November, and Bangkok: City of Temples.

Dave Stamboulis Greek-born but Californiaraised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he works for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, often via bicycle, kayak, or on foot. His travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

Steven Pettifor British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Cheryl Tseng An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia. com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Deputy Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Senior Editorial Assistant Pattarasuda Prajittanond Editorial Assistant Amornsri Tresarannukul Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Liz Smailes, Korakot Punlopruksa, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Darktemplar, Julian Ward, Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2011. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

Hotel

table of

contents snapshots 6 8 12 13 14 15

101 picks metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: blue pipes & hanging wires

sightseeing 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 30

orientation riverside route101: chinatown temples museums museum focus: rattanakosin exhibition hall historical homes & shrines parks & zoos hotel deals upcountry now festival: royal ploughing ceremony daytrip: ban mai over the border: kolkata

arts

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 41

Partners may 2011

food & drink 48 49 50 52 57 59 62 63 64

dining in bangkok meal deals street eats featured restaurant isaan eats restaurants brunching all you can eat wine

nightlife 66 68 70 72 73 74 76 78 79

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars & nightclubs bars live music jazz clubs pub crawls nightlife areas

shopping 80 82 83 84 86 87

ask/art art exhibitions performing arts cultural centres cinema books paradise found 88 photo feature: thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shot talent

unique boutique mall crawl fashion 1-on-1: painkiller jatujak market markets shopping tips

accommodation boutique bangkok

health & wellness 90

spas

sports 92

sports

business 93

business 101

courses & services 94 95

cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses making merit

reference 96 on the cover: Movements by Werayuth Piriyapornprapa

getting around

Snapshots

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer.

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Jatujak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.84).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.95).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.62).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.20).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.68-79).

■ Pak KhlongTalad Pick up more pretty posies than you know what to do with at this 24-hour flower market (p.86).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.94).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.17).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.69).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.82).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.94).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop (p.17).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.92).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.70).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars.

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.92).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.49).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature.

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.58).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.82).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.35).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.50).

■ Lumphini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.23).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (p.79).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.82).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.22).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.59).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.86).

■ Thai Theatre Traditional Thai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.36).

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Enjo foot ga

Exclu

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Nova Platinum Hotel

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Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings. By Howard Richardson

JAZZ

POP & ROCK 80s’ new york heavy metal band Anthrax headline the sonic attack festival at the esplanade, ratchadapisek road on May 2, supported by death angel and hellyeah. tickets are B1,500-B2,500 from thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Richie Kotzen, ex lead guitarist with poison and Mr Big, plays nakarin theatre on May 6. tickets cost B800 from thai ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). in 2009 NME pronounced them “new york’s official coolest new band” and now The Drums have made it to Bangkok. Vocalist Jonathan pierce, Jacob graham (guitar) and drummer Connor hanwick bring their indie-pop to Muse (02-715-0998) on May 24. entry is B800. south Korean pop singer Rain continues his asian tour with a gig at impact arena (02-5045050) on May 8. he’s here promoting his latest album, Back to the Basics, and says he wants to “help heal the environment in every country”. thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets from B900-B4,000. Japanese rockers Mono lead a cast of asian bands at the SODF Festival at Moon star studio (085-247-0591) on May 8. there’s also avantpop from Furniture (Malaysia), who describe their music as “a terrifyingly fluffy death struggle”, the Observatory (singapore), and at least another five acts. entry is B700 (over-20 id required). 8

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one of the most important jazz composers, and a performer with seemingly everyone from Miles davis onwards, pianist Herbie Hancock plays royal paragon hall on May 8. his classic tunes like ‘Watermelon Man’ and ‘Cantaloupe island’ should feature, alongside covers from recent albums River: The Joni Letters and The Imagine Project. the band is greg phillinganes (keyboards), James genus (bass), trevor lawrence (drums) and Kristina tra in (vocals). thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets priced B1,200-B4,500. hungarian sax player Tony Lakatos joins the david gomes trio at the living room, in the sheraton grande hotel (02-649-8353) from May 20-June 5, with drummer shawn Kelley and therdsak Wongvichien on bass. the B950 entry fee includes two standard drinks.

BOOKS the neilson hays library (www.neilsonhayslibrary. com) holds the Bangkok Literature Festival on May 22, with talks by authors such as John Burdett, Christopher Moore and Janice santikarn, and workshops on creative writing, storytelling, journalism and book binding. Book stalls, raffles and crafts will round out the event. the fair is free, but the workshops have an entry fee.

DESIGN DigiPlay: Thai-UK Digital Festival has been extended until May 22 at the thailand Creative & design Centre (02-664-8448, www. tcdc.or.th). the exhibition looks at innovations in digital games and animation. talks and workshops include contributions from people involved with Virgin Media, gorillaz and Laura Croft: Tomb Raider.

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21 Soi 10, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Thailand

Tel: 02 615 0999 www.ramadaencorebangkok.com

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OPERA & CLASSICAL

FOOD & DRINK

opera siam present the ghostly thai opera Mae Naak, written and conducted by somtow sucharitkul, at the national theatre (02-2241342) on May 11 and 12. Zion daoratanahong (soprano), nancy yuen (soprano) and han Kyu Won (baritone) play the leads, with backup from the siam orpheus Choir and music by the siam philharmonic orchestra. Ivo Kaltchev performs a piano recital on May 24 at the goethe institut (02-287-2822), including preludes by debussy and gershwin, Davidsbunlertanze, op. 6 by schumann, and rachmaninov’s Moment Musical, op 16/5. tickets are B250 and B500.

dine at Grossi italian restaurant (02-656-0444, www.intercontinental.com) on May 26 and enjoy live songs from the opera Hansel and Gretel by engelbert humperdinck as you eat. the four course meal, from the Veneto region is paired with wines, and costs B2,499. dinner with opera is a once-a-month event at this restaurant. Tables restaurant, at the grand hyatt erawan (02-254-1234), offers oysters cooked every-which-way at B50 apiece until June 30 with wines at B260 a glass.

NIGHTLIFE

THEATRE the all-dancing, all-punching romantic musical comedy The Boxing Boys is at Muangthai rachadalai theatre from May 1015. set to the backdrop of a muay thai training camp, the story sees rival street gangs go head to head as their leaders fall for the same girl. tickets are B500B1,500 from thai ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com). shows are at 7.30 pm nightly, plus 2pm weekend matinees.

MUSIC FESTIVAL the Bangkok Summer Festival provides a host of bands and a foam ocean party at rajamangala national stadium on May 7 and 8. headliners se7en (south Korea) and hoobastank (Us) are supported by local acts including slur, palmy and richman toy. tickets are B400 from thai ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor. com). it could get wet, so the organisers recommend a ziplock pack to protect valuables. 10

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Bed supperclub (02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub. com) has several imported acts this month to supplement its regular events, including Krafty Kuts, a former world number one breakbeat dJ on at least one list (May 5); ex-Culture Club warbler Boy George (May 12); and UK house innovator Norman Jay, who appears with the Cuban Brothers on May 19. there’s lots more: check out Bed’s website for a full playlist. Joel thomas Zimmerman, aka deadmau5, is at Moon star studio 8 on May 4. the Canadian progressive, electro, and house producer has previously worked with Kaskade, MC flipside and rob swire of pendulum, and released several albums following his debut Get Scraped in 2006. tickets are B1,200 and B1,500. there’s a meaty show at the Phatfunk Drum & Bass 1st Anniversary at glow (02-2613007, www.glowbkk.com) on May 13, when delorean and amnesty, both from the UK, play garage and Bassdrive, respectively. they keep the decks live until 4am, along with dJs instinct, azek and sky gazing. B200 entry includes one drink. the fun starts at 10pm.

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FOOD & DRINK

FILM the alliance francaise (02-670-4231) will show a selection of award winning movies in its Festival de Cannes Film Season. screenings are every Wednesday at 7.30pm, and admission is free. Flandres, on May 4, directed by Bruno dumont, won the grand prix du Jury 2006. it is followed by Van Gogh (May 11), Clean (May 18) and Ridicule (May 18). full details are at www. alliance-francaise.or.th.

PRAYA DINING

ART Continuing at the Bangkok art & Culture Centre (02214-6632) until June 19, Chiang Mai Now! views the northern capital from the perspective of 12 artists and cultural activists, including north forest studio, the 31st Century Museum of Contemporary spirit and punya Movie Club. for more in depth information on Chiang Mai see Bangkok 101’s sister publication Lanna 101, which is out now. the exhibition Ruan Jai the King by the mixed media faculty at silpakorn University is held in honour of hM King Bhumibol’s seventh cycle birthday. the works are displayed at the thai Bank Museum (02-544-3858, www.thaibankmuseum.or.th) until May 27.

DANCE performers from rumpuree dance studio (081-4390200, www.rumpuree.com) present Belly Dancing at MyBar, in the dusit thani hotel, every first thursday of the month, when there are free drinks for women from 7pm-9pm. www.bangkok101.com

a neglected, century-old riverside mansion is an uncommon sight in Bangkok, and to see one lovingly restored, like praya palazzo, is a joy. this once-crumbling italianate structure, visible across the water from Banglampu, is now a small hotel and restaurant with wood floors and ceilings and many original features back in place. the restaurant has two short menu lists – thai and european – with safe items like tom yum goong, massaman curry and foie gras. thai appetisers include tenderly cooked deep fried chicken in pandanus leaves, spring rolls and WHERE Praya Palazzo Hotel, 757/1 goong talai – Somdej Prapinklao Soi 2, five lusciously 02-883-2998, www.prayapalazzo.com fatty raw OPEN Daily 11:30am-2pm, shrimp served 6pm-11pm in Chinese PRICE $$-$$$ teacups with a sweet, lightly spiced sauce. and we had a tasty “old-fashioned beef soup”, laced with the tang of basil and gapi (shrimp paste). the Western dishes we tried – an undercooked (although good quality) steak and an overcooked salmon, both with flavourless sauces – were less successful. the modest wine list has bottles from B1,100 and a couple of house wines at B220 a glass. the restaurant interior will be of historic interest, particularly to locals, but pp is best viewed from the outside, so sitting by the pool in the small riverside garden will be the preferred option for most diners. there’s no road access, so call ahead to arrange a boat pick-up from phra arthit pier.

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พระยาพาลาซโซ สมเด็จพระปนเกลา ซอย2

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the

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Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

It’s a Record Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and ofﬁcial name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise that Guinness World Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

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24 MAY 1988: PORNTIP WINS MISS UNIVERSE CROWN IN TAIPEI

chronicle of thailand

ineteen-year-old Porntip Narkhirunkanok was crowned Miss Universe 1988 in Taiwan. ‘I’m so happy, not for myself but for Thailand,’ she said. Asked how she could represent Thailand, having lived from a very young age in the US, Porntip replied she was ‘Thai throughout’. The second Miss Thailand to win the title, after Apasara Hongsakul in 1965, Porntip received $250,000, a Maserati sports car, a mink coat, a diamond necklace and diamond-studded watch. From Taipei she flew to Los Angeles before embarking on a hectic year of globe-trotting and promotional work for the pageant’s sponsors. Returning to Thailand on 23 August, Porntip brought Bangkok to a virtual standstill as tens of thousands came to catch a glimpse of her motorcade as it returned from a meeting with recently appointed Prime Minister Chatichai Choonhavan. In other parts of the city, pedestrians crowded outside television shops to watch the spectacle on TV. Commenting on the public excitement, PM’s office Minister Supatra Masdit said: ‘It’s strange. I have never seen it before. We are all happy to see her’. Eventually Porntip married billionaire Herb Simon in 2002 and made the US her home for good. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com

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Wat Suthat

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

DID YOU KNOW?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

THE MONARCHY Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. SOCIAL HIERARCHY Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 14

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at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

LOSING FACE Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). BODY PARTS The head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

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very thai

niting Thai architecture, roads and vistas, two things snag the eye: hanging wires and the blue PVC pipe. You can’t miss these contributions to probably the world’s most cluttered streetscape. Wires old, new and redundant tangle our surroundings in brutal, slashing lines or whimsical knots, severed ends swinging like electric eels at head-height. Defying logic and memory as to what connects what, cables tangle into garlands several dozen thick. Blue pipes meander over teak house, temple and waterfall. The eye may bypass them to dwell on beautiful details behind, but the camera doesn’t lie. Taking a wire-free photograph defies all but the deftest lensman. The most photographed sight in Thailand is the hanging wire. Street chaos enmeshes Asia, though its extent in Thailand astonishes. Local factors make

BLUE PIPES & HANGING WIRES THE WHIMSICAL ART OF VISUAL POLLUTION authorities less keen than planners in the West to hide away utilities that are proudly displayed as symbols of independence and modernity. Their mentality owes much to the mid-20th century ‘development mindset’, when countries put pipelines, dams and power stations on their stamps and banknotes as icons of a new culture. Ironically, this fetish for conspicuous industrial carbuncles now brands a country as less, rather than more sophisticated. Faced with wire poles and

pipes, the Thai make use of them. Some poles get festooned with foliage, while the blueness of the water pipe pleases in its own right. While less obtrusive pipes – yellow for electrics, grey for sewerage – do get hidden, the blue PVC must be liked better, since that’s the one people use to make clothing racks, furniture, frames for stalls or carts, all of which are prominently displayed for effect. Perhaps instead of burying wires, they should just make them blue.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

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snapshots

may 2011

Sightseeing Wat Arun

orientation

Cha

Thewet & Dusit

hr a

Ko Rattanakosin

hray

Chinatown

THONBURI

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

may 2011

GREATER BANGKOK

city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.19) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

is where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.19), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

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the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: PHRA ATHIT Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

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Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

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Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5: RATCHAWONGSE Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. g Muan and smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Chinatown Pahurat

Pak Klong Talad

KL PHR AO A P BR OK ID GE

N1: ORIENTAL The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

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ksin R

N6: MEMORIAL BRIDGE/ SAPHAN POOD Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N6 Wat Arun

N2: SRI PHAYA On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N9: THA CHANG Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Amulet Market

N15: THEWET Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N13

Wat Mahatat

N8: THA TIEN Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.19) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

N15

N10

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N10: WANG LANG Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.34) are all in the vicinity.

RA GE PHRID ET B D O M LA SO K N PI

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

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o Ta Cha Phra Som det

SAPHAN TAKSIN The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

Peninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

N1 TAK S

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sightseeing

may 2011

Sightseeing

CHINATOWN

route 101

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Plaeng Nam Rd

Phadung Dao Rd

Trongsawat Rd

Soi 11 Rd

Yaowaphanit Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 16 Rd

Soi Yaowarat 6 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 14 Rd

Soi 15 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Mittraphan Rd

Phlap Pla Chai Rd

Song Wat Rd

Wat Ko

Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.109) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neonlit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Road will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing air-con cooled restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a well-earned rest.

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Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.29) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1

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Suapa Rd

aowarat, as Chinatown is popularly known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incenseshrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main,

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sightseeing

www.bangkok101.com

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang| 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm| B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแกว ถ.หนาพระลาน (ใกลสนามหลวง)

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร ผัง่ ตะวันตกของแมนำ้ เจาพระยา

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WAT SAKET (map B3, #7)

Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Hike up its 318 steps and this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free This 18th-century centre of the M a h a n i k a i monastic sect is also an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines, amulets and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism here are available in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ทาพระจันทร สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, Thai and Chinesestyle mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai era statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth.

วัดสุทศั น ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา sightseeing

temples WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3)

Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13

661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tones and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million. Within the compound, the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre is an accessible museum detailing the history of the area and its settlers.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www. watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can learn this ancient healing art.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

may 2011

Sightseeing

The National Museum

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ ถ.เจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 20

may 2011

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑการเรียนรู แหงชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Museum of Siam

sightseeing

www.bangkok101.com

museum focus Where 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com Open Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm Price Full Price Adults B200, Kids B50; Promotion Price Adults B100, Kids B30

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL

his is not the slickest or most ‘edutaining’ multimedia museum in the land – that accolade goes to the excellent Museum of Siam, over near Wat Pho. But the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall does give a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many of us admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re temple’d out – have explored the Grand Palace, Wat Pho etc – it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of the Old City beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. And not just because the air-con in this impressive building is set to arctic. Exploring its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s murky history, arts, communities and traditions into much sharper focus. Fittingly for such a proud, some would say nationalistic country, it opens with some pomp: a bombastic multimedia presentation reenacting the Rattanakosin dynasty’s birth in 1782. After bursts of dry ice, images of its founder, King Rama I, fade into a diorama explaining how this island was built to emulate the glories of razed former capital Ayutthaya. The second, ‘The Prestige of the Kingdom’, showcases the ethereal splendour of the Grand Palace, featuring detailed replicas of it and its main architectural motifs like krueng yot (flame-shaped roof pinnacles). Visitors can also watch a cartoon animation about the much-debated origins and itinerant history of the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s holiest Buddhist relic – before strolling into a mock-up of the Grand Palace’s inner court, complete with demure waxwork court ladies busy carving fruit, making floral decorations and weaving. www.bangkok101.com

One of the most interesting rooms, ‘Remarkable Entertainments’, showcases Thai fine performing arts like nang yai (puppetry), lakhon nai (court drama) and hun luang (puppet theatre) with a lively 360-degree digital mural animation. In the section next to it, one then learns about traditional Thai masked dance, khon – its masks, its story (the Ramakien), and its characters, namely the ways they relate the same emotions using distinct body language. The fourth explores the ancient ceremonies the reigning King has revived, such as the Royal Barge Ceremony and Royal Ploughing Ceremony; the fifth, the evolution of Rattanakosin’s architectural styles through the centuries; and the sixth sheds light on the area’s twelve shophouse communities and their largely bygone craft specialties. Here, in one of the museum’s more interactive moments, stepping on each of 12 designated spots triggers a backlit information board explaining that Mahachai Road was originally the place to go to find joss sticks, scented water and robe girdles, for example, Din So Road for white clay, and so on. Up on the fourth floor there’s also an observation balcony from where you can look down over the Wat Rachanaddaram temple next door, with its eerily spired Loha Prasart fort, not to mention the area you now have a much more in-depth grasp of. There is more to the Old City than this slightly statesanitised museum would have you believe – away from the ancient spires, Rattanakosin has a bloody modern history, and its local communities, one of its most compelling features, are only ever-so lightly touched on – but this is still a good starting point.

sightseeing

นิทรรศนรัตนโกสินทร ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

may 2011

Sightseeing

historic homes JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) The home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman l a r g e l y responsible for the global popularity of Thai silk, is a must see. In a sun-dappled tropical garden beside a pungent canal, six traditional teak houses brim with the art and antiques he rescued from around Asia: from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Regular group tours led by silk-clad female guides introduce you to these exquisite treasures and the life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ตรงขามสนามกีฬาแหงชาติ

SHRINES

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.

บานหมอมราชวงศคึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-2811569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use

Apart from all the Buddhist temples, Bangkok is also studded with small shrines dedicated to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks.

clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom The swarming shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances, you should offer 9 red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

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พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

พระตรีมูรติ หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด sightseeing

by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day.

พระทีน่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ

WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Quite possibly Thailand and the world’s most recognisable Hindu deity due to its distinctive appearance, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, Ganesha is thought to be partial to bananas, ripe mango and sticky rice-flour Thai desserts, so make sure you prepare the correct foodstuffs accordingly.

พระพิฆเนศวร หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด

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KIDS IN THE CITY

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.82) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones. The city’s parks (see below) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.84), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. FLORA LUMPHINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features.

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร) ประเวศ

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JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Subdistrict, Chatuchak | 02-272-4358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around.

สวนสัตวดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5

QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

parks & zoos

FUNARIUM (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟนเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

SIAM OCEAN WORLD (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’re Thai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing.

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

may 2011

Sightseeing

hotel deals Until May 31 Family & Friends Pranburi’s Villa Maroc Resort invites you to spend some relaxing time with the special people in your life with their “Family & Friends” package. Book two nights in a two bedroom villa for B35,000, or enjoy the exotic Moroccan décor of the luxurious Royal Villa for B55,000. The “Family and Friends” package includes 5-star accommodation, sumptuous daily breakfast for 4 persons, as well as an exciting 3-hour kayaking trip through the winding mangrove forest of the beautiful Pranburi River. 032-630-771; www.villamarocresort.com

Until Oct 31 Super Sales Book two nights and enjoy a free upgrade at Pattaya’s Nova Gold Hotel, which features a desktop computer and free WiFi in every room. Book now to enjoy this and other extra benefits, and take the first step to discovering the wonderful destination of Pattaya. The offer applies to bookings made on the official website only. Prices start from B3,160 per night. www.oamhotels.com/novagold/

may 2011

Until Sep 30 New Grand Villa Satis Aleenta Resorts Thailand has added to its exclusive collection of private luxury villas at its resort in Phuket – Phang Nga, with the stunning new Grand Villa Satis. The exquisite villa is the latest offering from the Aleenta brand in a destination that remains unspoilt in southern Thailand. These charming, standalone villas are designed for guests who relish the peace and serenity synonymous with a luxurious beachfront villa yet still want to enjoy the rewards of first-class staff and facilities in a full-service luxury resort. Prices for Grand Villa Satis begin at B26,500 per night. www.aleenta.com

Until Oct 31 Zpeedy Zeavola Zeavola Resort, the only luxury villa resort on Phi Phi Island, presents the ‘Zpeedy Zeavola’ promotion, which offers complimentary round trip speedboat and airport transfer for a reservation of 4 nights stay or more. The leisure rate for a Village Suite is B8,000++ per night; Garden Suite is B9,000++ per night; Beach Front Suite is B14,500++ per night and Pool Villa Suite is B19,000++ per night. Rates are inclusive of beautiful accommodation and amenities, breakfast for two at Baxil restaurant, and complimentary Wi-Fi internet access. 075-627-000; www.zeavola.com

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Until Oct 31 amazing Thailand Free Nights Book a minimum of two nights at selected Centara Hotels & Resorts and pay for only one night. The Amazing Thailand Free Night offer is available at properties in Hua Hin, Krabi, Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, Phuket, Rayong, Trat and Chiang Mai. The package is available from now until October 31, with room rates beginning at B1,250++ for a Superior room at Chiang Mai’s Centara Duangtawan Hotel. Note: breakfast is included on the paid-for night (except Bayburi Vacation Villas Hua Hin), not included on the free night’s accommodation. 02-101-1234 ext. 1; www.centara.co.th/ package/AmazingThailand.asp

Ongoing Pay 2 Enjoy 3 Guests staying at one of the three Courtyard by Marriott resorts in Phuket can receive a third night free when they book two. Courtyard by Marriott Phuket at Patong Beach starts from only B2,700 per night, while a room at Courtyard by Marriott Phuket at Kamala Beach starts from B3,000 per night. At the Courtyard by Marriott Phuket at Surin Beach, the offer starts from B3,150 per night. This package is applicable for a minimum stay of three nights, with advance bookings required. Guests staying longer than three nights are entitled to receive a bonus 33.3%. 076-303-300; www.marriott.com

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hotel focus

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With its Sino-Portuguese architecture and first-class facilities, the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket is the pride of the island

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Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket, a newly-built resort property at Karon Beach on the island of Phuket, is one of the few at Karon to be set directly at the edge of the sand. Designed in a colonial style with Sino-Portuguese architecture, the five-star resort is Centara’s fourth property in Phuket. ■ Accommodation Centara has taken key elements of its resort properties at Krabi and Pattaya to create an ideal destination resort at Karon Beach. Accommodation consists of 262 guestrooms and villas, with 126 Deluxe rooms, 63 Deluxe Spa rooms, 45 Deluxe Pool Suites, 18 Luxury Pool Suites, six One-Bed Pool Villas and four Two-Bed Pool Villas. All guestrooms have a balcony with sea view, and Deluxe Spa rooms have a private Jacuzzi on the balcony. Guests staying in the Villas, Pool Suites and Pool Premium rooms are entitled to Club privileges, which include the Club Lounge with 300 sqm of indoor and outdoor terrace space and five complementary meal servings per day. www.bangkok101.com

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■ Leisure Leisure facilities include a tennis court, a fitness centre with 144 sqm of space, and a SPA Cenvaree offering Vichy treatments, herbal steam and sauna rooms, meditation rooms, relaxation lounges, manicure and pedicure rooms, and 10 single and double treatment rooms. Children’s facilities include two playrooms, one for ages four to 10 years and one for 10 to 16 years, and a playground. ■ Dining & Drinking The Cove is the all-day dining restaurant, located on the beachfront and featuring open kitchens that serve international and Asian melting-pot cuisines. Seating is for 250, with indoor space and an outdoor covered terrace. Mare Italian restaurant and bar overlooks the beach and serves pasta and pizza during the day with classical Italian cuisine in the evenings. The restaurant has its own bar and wine room. Seating is for 262 guests. The Luna Chill-Out Bar and Lounge is located above Mare and features sightseeing

a large outdoor terrace with loungestyle seating, and an indoor bar and lounge. Light meals including Mediterranean and Asian tapas are served. Seating is for 50 indoors, 60 outdoors, and 19 at the bar. The Beachcomber Beach Bar is situated on the beach, while the Splash Pool Bar is a swim-up bar at the edge of the main pool. The Lobby Lounge & Bar has ocean views, with live piano music in the evenings. In-room dining is available 24/7. ■ Business Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket is fully equipped for meetings. The Phuket Grand Ballroom has a capacity of 820 persons seated theatre-style, with 576sqm of space that is divisible into two equal parts. There is also a large pre-function area of 240sqm. Address: 683 Patak Road, Karon Beach, Muang, Phuket, 83100, Thailand Phone: +66 (0) 7620-1234 Fax: +66 (0) 7620-1235 Email: cpbr@chr.co.th Website: www.centarahotelsresorts.com

may 2011

Sightseeing

BUDDHIST HOLIDAY

upcountry now FRUIT FESTIVAL The equally loathed and loved “King of Fruits” has its own festival, the World Durian Festival, May 5-15. Held each year, when the giant, pungent and spiky fruit is in season, this orgy of durian selling and feasting, which also includes an OTOP fair and fruit contests, takes place in the eastern province of Chanthaburi, which is sometimes dubbed the “fruit bowl of Thailand” due to its abundance of fruit. Call the TAT Chanthaburi 038-655-420 or 1672 for more..

ROCKET FESTIVAL

One of the noisiest festivals on the calendar takes place in the usually sleepy Northeastern town of Yasothon, May 13-15. For the Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival farmers pack giant, ornate rockets (bang fai) full of homemade explosives, drag them on elaborate traditional carts to the launch sight and then, on the third day, fire them high into the sky. Why? According to folklore, the first raindrops of the rice planting season only fall when the gods are in the mood for love. Firing missiles in their direction is said to stimulate them into action. Lots of Isaan-style merry making – comedy, fun fairs, beauty contests, morlam folk music etc – accompany this lofty goal. Call the TAT (1672) for more.

MUSIC

Hua Hin beach will be a sea of bobbing pork pie hats on Saturday May 14, as ska and roots reggae fans flock down there for this year’s Honda Summer Fest IV. Acts lined up for the free end-ofsummer party include Japan’s Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, and established Thai act’s like T-Bone, Titanium and The Superglasses. Starts 12pm.

may 2011

On Visakha Bucha Day, May 17, a public holiday, there will be processions and merit-making rituals nationwide to mark the birth, enlightenment and passing away of Lord Buddha. The faithful will walk clockwise around temple stupas three times while clasping flowers, incense and a lit candle, a ritual known as Wien Tien. Worshippers in Chiang Mai will also gather at the base of Doi Suthep Mountain just as the sun sets, light candles and then make the seven km pilgrimage to the top of the mountain, where the city’s revered Wat Doi Suthep temple awaits. And at Phetchaburi province’s famous Khao Wang hill, lamps will be placed around its hallowed Wat Phra Kaeo temple, a tradition initiated by King Rama IV.

SAILING

From 30 May-4 June the 10th Samui International yacht Regatta, now renamed the Sawadee. com Regatta 2011, will feature six sailing classes and a slew of related lifestyle activities. Watch the sailing action from the comfort of a spectator boat… and then party the evening away at one of many related regatta events taking place, including live jazz. Race entry forms, ticket details and an event schedule are all at www. samuiregatta.com.

BEAUTY PAGEANT Head down to Pattaya, May 5, to watch around 30 of the Kingdom’s best looking (i.e. most surgically chiselled) ladyboys strut their stuff at this world-famous annual beauty contest. After parading about the stage in ball gowns, glittering Vegas-cabaret style headdresses and skimpy bikinis, the ecstatic winner will be crowned Miss Tiffany Universe 2011. Don’t do Pattaya? The whole show, the proceeds of which will go to The Royal Sponsored AIDS Foundation, will also be screened live on Channel 7 from 11pm-1am. Tickets (B1,500- B2,500 VIP) from www.thaiticketmajor. com. More at www.misstiffanyuniverse.com.

sightseeing

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festivals

MAY 13: ROYAL PLOUGHING CEREMONY

hen you stay in Bangkok it’s easy to think Thailand is all about tourism and Buddhism, traffic chaos and highrises, but in fact the Kingdom is in an agrarian country – a large part of its population still works in the fields. May 13th – a Friday this year, somewhat inauspiciously – celebrates Thailand’s agricultural roots with the Royal Ploughing Ceremony on Sanam Luang, Bangkok’s Royal Field, opposite the Grand Palace. A Brahmanic rite dating back to the Sukhothai period (1257 1350 A.D.), it was developed by the ceremony-loving Thais into a splendid extravaganza, with lots of officials dressed to the nines and overseen by Royalty. Intended to foster morale and make predictions about crops, the festival marks the start of the planting season, when farmers brace for hand-planting rice. Highlights of the ceremony are the two sacred Royal oxen, which plough three ceremonial furrows, www.bangkok101.com

into which rice seeds are scattered and sprinkled with divine water. The oxen are then presented with seven platters of grass, rice, corn, beans, sesame, whiskey and water. Whichever the bulls choose to tuck into should be plentiful the next 12 months. Rice or corn means an abundance of grains and fish; beans or sesame signifies fish and meat, water or grass indicates plenty of rain, food, meat and agricultural crops; and alcohol signifies trade, transport and a prosperous economy. Following the ceremony many of the usual thousands of onlookers race over the ploughed ground to pick up the sacred seed, which they mix with their own grains. The stampede for the talismanic grains is one of the finest moments to experience in Bangkok, deeply Thai and very fun (and highly photogenic, what with the people, the oxen, and the masses!). Should you be in Bangkok on May 13th, you’ll know where to plant your sights. sightseeing

MAY 5: CORONATION DAY HM King Bumiphol Adulyadej was crowned over six decades ago, making the 9th King of the ruling Chakri Dynasty the longest reigning monarch in the Kingdom’s history (and the longest reigning current monarch in the world). The anniversary carries with it huge celebrations and a slew of religious rites, but none accessible to mere mortals. Instead, check out the festively decorated city streets, especially around the Democracy Monument and the Dusit area. may 2011

Sightseeing

daytrip Max Crosbie-Jones

Photography by Doungjun Roongruang

Baan Mai Market a living, breathing museum piece

n a country as obsessed with preserving its history for future generations as this one, the scarcity of old buildings in Bangkok is a surprise – and a disappointment – to many. Over the years we’ve searched high and low for them, and the sad truth is that apart from the ancient temples, the odd parade of shophouses, forlorn mansion and rickety riverside godown there simply aren’t that many. Not that it’s all bad news. Take a short drive from the capital, and you’ll discover that many of Bangkok’s provincial neighbours have fared much, much better in the heritage preservation stakes – home to living, breathing old market communities that hum with life on weekends and are well worth a visit if you get the chance. There is a whole clutch to choose from, but Chachoengsao province’s Talat Baan Mai (new village market) is the one we keep on coming back to. Built on the banks of the Bangpakong River by Chinese immigrants in the reign of King Rama V (who visited

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it in on 25 January 1907), it fell into disuse in the latter half of the last century until some enterprising locals revived it. Nowadays, on weekends at least, it’s even livelier than in its heyday, filled with locals admiring its 120 or so teak-plank shophouses and the variations on old market

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life contained within each of them. From stalls piled high with oldschool toys to vintage barber shops, and men posing as old Siamese warriors, you could it a living museum of sorts… and this goes for the food. Clogging the sides of Baan Mai’s doglegging main alley – no more

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than a few metres wide in places – are stalls flogging a veritable buffet of freshly made arhan boran (old Thai food), including savoury treats like hor mok (steamed fish cakes with curry paste) and desserts like lod chong, krop khem and khao lam. Stopping to graze on these regional delicacies as you roam is a big Baan Mai must, as is a pitstop in one of the restaurants that back onto the river, offering views to the far bank alongside dishes made using fish plucked straight from it. Two worth seeking out are Baan Paa Nuu, which knocks out bowls of smoky fish soup, and dishes like goong samret samun phrai (prawns in Thai herbs); and Sam Mae Krua, which serves an excellent pla chon pad kuen-chai (fried snakefish with celery) and ped palo (potstewed duck boiled with Chinese spices). There are also a handful of coffee shops serving coffee the boran way – strained through a muslin sock filter, and sweetened with sugar and generous swirls of condensed milk. Further exploration will reveal that there’s more to Baan Mai than mere sepia-tinged nostalgia, shopping and snacks. In an open space between its two covered teak arcades is an old Chinese shrine, while beside it, locals accrue merit in this life by buying live eels, fish and turtles and releasing

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them into the murky green waters. Depending on how into markets you are, you could easily spend a couple of hours taking all this in, soaking up the rustic ambiance, watching vendors prep food, and photographing all the sweet, tatty shophouse interiors and snoozing grandpas. On our recent trip we did just that, before turning our excursion into a fully fledged daytrip by visiting some of Chachoengsao’s other attractions, like the metrehigh Kuan Im statute. Found floating along in the river a long, long time ago, some savvy locals rescued it and placed it inside the Sawang Satthatham Foundation. Also worth seeing is Chachoengsao’s main temple and town symbol, Wat Sothon Wararam Worawiharn, located near the river’s banks. Though its recently renovated spired ordination hall isn’t really that impressive, the sight of hundreds of locals jostling to light incense, pray and rub gold leaf on the famous Buddha image ‘Laung Pho Sothon’ – which is believed to have blessed the province with fertility – is. This is actually a good place to begin your day, as from here you sightseeing

can also take a relaxing B100 river cruise that will deposit you at Baan Mai. Lined with historic temples, fortresses, flocks of birds, raft shacks and, yes, more old teak houses, the Bangpakong is a charming lazy river and even, believe it or not, good for dolphin spotting at certain times of year. The half hour trip also adds to the sense that you’re being transported from modern life, back into an entirely different lost age. GETTING THERE Baan Mai is about 85 kilometres from Bangkok, and best reached by one of the following methods: n By Train: Trains leave regular from Hua Lamphong Station from 5:55am to 6:25pm (call 1690 or visit www.railway. co.th for more information) n By Car: Highway No.304, via Min Buri (82 Km). n By Bus: from Mochit 2 Bus Terminal, buses leave every 30 minutes from 5:20am6pm (call 02-936-2858 ext 311, 442 for more information) From Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai), buses leave every 30 minutes from 5am-9:30pm (call 023941-2505 for more information) may 2011

Sightseeing

over the border Simon Ostheimer

KOLKaTa

Conﬂuence of Cultures

ention the name Calcutta and you’ll most likely hear the words “black hole” in retort, a reference to when in 1756, allegedly, 123 British and Anglo-Indian soldiers and civilians died after being thrown into a dungeon measuring 4.3m by 5.5m by troops of the local ruler. If you do the math, it’s almost physically impossible to fi t that many people into such a confined space, which is why many historians claim the figure was grossly exaggerated in order to be used as propaganda by the British. No matter what the facts, it’s a tale that should be confined to the past, as this teeming metropolis of 20 million has many richer stories to tell, including a lengthy period as the capital of British India, and a reputation for excellence in both art and literature. As with any city, the best way to discover Kolkata (the name of the West Bengal capital was changed in 2001 to reflect its original pronunciation) is on foot. While it’s perfectly doable to see the sights by yourself with a map, a walking tour with a local company such as Calcutta Walks offers a much more unique way to explore. Accordingly, you don’t have a guide to lead

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you around town, but rather an ‘Explorer’– we were fortunate to meet two of them, Malini and Manjit. The Kolkata natives both pride themselves on loving their hometown, with all its distinctive quirks. As well as more conventional half- and full-day city tours, available by bike, car and coach, there are currently six distinct walks on offer (more are under development, and customised walks can be arranged), which explore areas such as the colonial-era Dalhousie Square, Kumartuli pottery village, riverside flower market, and the once glamorous entertainment row on Park Street. On the first day, Malini had taken us around the city by car to allow us to see more in a shorter space of time, and we had listened raptly as John the organ player gave an impromptu performance in the church he shared a name with; passed through the explosion of colour that is the flower market; taken tea at the Indian Coffee House, where revolutionaries once plotted the downfall of the British; and purchased spices at the S.S. Hogg Market, built in 1874. For our walk the next day with ‘Explorer’ Manjit, we chose sightseeing

the ‘Confluence of Cultures – Bow Barracks to Burra Bazar’, a 3.5 hour odyssey that took us on a journey from former British army barracks to the oldest Christian church in the city, passing Chinese temples, Jewish synagogues and everything else in-between. It’s hard to describe India to someone who hasn’t been. Even if you’ve spent years in Asia, the subcontinent is an entirely different world. Life in Kolkata has the appearance of semi-organised chaos, a constant maelstrom of people and traffic interspersed by remarkable moments of spirituality and solitude. It was apt, then, that our early morning start (“before the monster wakes up!”) began inside the serene courtyard of a Buddhist association, where we met a group of Burmese tourists on pilgrimage. Having first enjoyed a quick shot of masala chai tea, which comes served in tiny, handmade pottery cups that are smashed after use to stop the sellers reusing them, here we found ourselves to be the attraction. After quickly snapping photos of the Buddha statue, we retired back to the street where Manjit’s introduction to the area was drowned out by the cries of two elderly Muslim beggars. Carrying a sheet between them, they were beseeching local residents to throw coins down from their windows –

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some of which landed near our feet. Through it all, we managed to catch that this area was Bow Barracks, red brick buildings which were once home to British and Anglo-Indian soldiers, and now housed a multiethnic and -cultural mix of residents; one particular letterbox listed the names Moss, D’Souza and Chow. As it turned out, this was Manjit’s neighbourhood – he lived and worked in the area – which meant we were greeted on every street corner, and stopped every five minutes to pick up another delicious snack (while most street food is cooked and therefore safe to eat, it’s advised to get your explorer’s okay before tucking in to anything). It had the wonderful effect of making us feel less like tourists and more like new arrivals. Making our way through the narrow alleys and crossed crowded streets – watching out for careening buses, taxis, rickshaws and trams – the story of a city of immigrants emerged. On top of a mix of Bengalis, Tamils, Punjabis, Assamese and dozens of other Indian ethnicities, Kolkata was built and driven by a diverse influx of nationalities, such as the Armenians, Portuguese, Chinese, and of course the British. It explains the proliferation of places of worship – on our short walk alone we passed a mosque, synagogue, Parsee and Jain temples, and www.bangkok101.com

Portuguese and Armenian churches. However, the largest monument in the city is not devoted to a religion, but rather to a single individual – the Empress of India. Determined to outdo the splendour of the Taj Mahal, the Victoria Memorial was constructed from 1906 to 1921 using ‘voluntary’ donations from mostly native subjects. Designed to symbolise the success of British rule, it was ironic that Indian independence would be achieved just 26 years later. Surrounded by 64 acres of gardens, which fill up on weekends with courting couples and family picnics, Kolkata’s most recognised landmark still contains portraits of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, with the addition of an absorbing gallery on the story of the city’s foundation and development (if you can, visit on a weekday when it is much less crowded). If natural history is more your thing, then head over to the Indian Museum on Chowringhee. The ninth oldest such institute in the world (it was established in 1814), the large colonial building is in dire need of an overhaul, but is still worth visiting for the Egyptian mummy, collection of dinosaur fossils, and the unsettling yet fascinating assemblage of animals and skeletons from around the world. Our four days in Kolkata were a whirlwind – we saw so much and yet so little. At times the city was so overwhelming we were thankful to have our hotel room to retreat back to. At others, we couldn’t get enough of this incredible place, such as when a Chinese lion dance burst into the restaurant we were eating in (unexpectedly, Chinese restaurants are probably the most popular places to eat in town), or when we watched a game of cricket in progress on the Maidan (owned by the Indian army, this vast expanse of open fields is described as the ‘lungs of the city’), or the delight of riding in the back of an old Ambassador yellow taxi through the potholed streets. Kolkata is much more than a history lesson – it’s a change in the way you view life. sightseeing

n Eat For Chinese, try neighbouring Tung Fong (25B Park Street, +91-33-22174965), with its menu of localised items such as vegetable Manchurian. Meanwhile, KhanaSutra (Chrome, 226 A.J.C. Bose Road, + 91-333096-3096; www.chromehotel. in) serves contemporary Indian cuisine, while La Terrasse (The Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Road, +91-33-2249-2323; www.oberoihotels.com) presents an array of international dishes in a charming Victorian-era building. n SHOP The S.S. Hogg, or New Market (20 Lindsay Street. Closed Sundays.), located just a stone’s throw from Chowringhee (officially known as Jawaharlal Nehru Road), offers everything from spices to handicrafts to fashion. n WALK The explorers at Calcutta Walks offer a series of unique walks around the city; half- and full-day city tours; more offbeat trips (such as to graveyards and the weavers’ village); home stays; river cruises; and the option of tailor-made activities. Contact the founder Ifte at explore@calcuttawalks. com, or call +91-33-4005-2573. For more details, visit www. calcuttawalks.com. Tour prices range from INR1,500 to INR8,000. n Stay With an award-winning design, the futuristic looking Chrome (226 A.J.C. Bose Road, + 91-33-30963096; www.chromehotel.in) is a five-star boutique property and member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The historic Oberoi Grand (15 Jawaharlal Nehru Road, +91-33-2249-2323; www. oberoihotels.com), meanwhile, has lorded it over Kolkata for more than 125 years, offering a convenient and central location opposite the Maidan and close to Park Street. may 2011

Arts

screening short films about social ills by 12 young directors as part of a project called ‘You Say You Want a Revolution’ every Saturday on the 9th floor at BACC. There are also post-screening discussions by the film’s directors.

ask/art Steven Pettifor

How did you come up with the idea for Chiang Mai Now? Chiang Mai Now! resulted from a simple question: “How is art in Chiang Mai now?” The words ‘art’ and ‘now’ instigate considerations of contemporary art. What I find interesting in Chiang Mai is not just its contemporary art, but the cultural activities, social activities, and large number of alternative thinking groups that represent what's really going on in the city. I often think about a quote by Franz West: “It doesn't matter what the art looks like but how it's used.” I wanted to find out more. How does the Chiang Mai art scene compare to that of Bangkok? It is difficult to compare, because in the big cities there are many things the same. Also, I don’t know much about the Bangkok Art Scene. However, one of our artists (Retracing Aesthetics and Friends), said that, “In Chiang Mai, one day is 48 hours.” If what he says is true, there is a huge difference. There are several communities involved in the show that would not be considered conventional art creators, why did you include them? What they do is creative. They change and move the city, solving problems in various aspects of urban and environmental life. Some of them do not do this professionally, but sacrifice personal time for others. And all of them share the same characteristics of self-sufficiency and operating independently of the state. They have created their own spaces, concepts, philosophies and personal beliefs; living and working to prove what they believe in. We should then ask ourselves, are they artists too? Considering the participation of so many unconventional art platforms, how did you come up with the overall exhibition plan? I designed the exhibition to make appropriate use of space at the BACC. There are many groups working together, some are overlapping, and most know each other. This is a unique feature of Chiang Mai. We can work together easily. Aside from regular art viewing, what other elements are in the exhibition? Lanna Bird and Nature Conservation Club with Bird Conservation Society of Thailand have organised Birdwalk at Rot Fai Park and Suan Luang Rama 9 every first Saturday and first Sunday of the month; and Punya Movie Club is 32

may 2011

What do you hope audiences take away from the show? I was very pleased to see so many people on the opening day. Hopefully, this exhibition opens a new space for the diversity of thoughts, opinions, the participatory, and multifarious activities, and to better understandings of artistic and cultural work, amidst the fragile and complex differences within contemporary Thai society. I gave special attention to the expanding of the ideas of artists. I believe that when we open our hearts, a variety of arts and culture can grow. Artists are unique. I hope more audiences will beneﬁ t from the information provided in this exhibition. Does the exhibition and choice of participants reflect your own art practice? What they do are all issues I am interested in: selfreliance, environmental, spiritual, architectural art activity and design. They will affect my works in the future. What are your predictions for the future of northern art practice? It’s fun and interesting to look forward. It depends on many factors, including economic, social, political or natural disasters. Who can predict accurately? I hope that northern art will continue to be open for participation and will remain interesting to audiences. I believe in the power of universal human creativity, and am conﬁdent in the potential for art to bring about revolutionary change. Why do you think Chiang Mai has developed a grass roots, socially engaged art and culture scene beyond the typical gallery environment? Activities and social engagement or any grass roots developments result from the living conditions of people in the community, and the subsequent efforts to solve various problems arising from contemporary life. In Chiang Mai, this is a good time to think about the position of artists and arts in the northern community. Where exactly we are ‘now’, what are the problems, and are there any solutions? Read the full interview online at: www.bangkok101.com/category/arts An industrious artist from Chiang Rai, Angkrit Ajchariyasophon wears many creative hats. Whether manifested as performance, painting, or sculpture; identity driven, time-based or situational in nature, Angkrit is fascinated by public engagement and improvisational interaction as he strives to blur distinctions between art and daily life. In the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre's (BACC) latest exhibition ‘Chiang Mai Now!’, Angkrit highlights the diversity and resourcefulness of the northern cultural scene. Chiang Mai Now! Until 19 June Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630; www.bacc.or.th. TueSun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium.

arts

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Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab yourself a copy today and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

Until May 7 Obsessive Compulsive Number 1 Gallery, Silom Galleria B1, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19 | 02-630-3381 | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am6pm | www.number1gallery.com | BTS Surasak After January’s exhibition with Number 1 at the prestigious regional showcase Art Stage Singapore, Vasan Sitthiket returns with his latest painterly assault. Continuing with his creative campaign to halt the social and moral degradation he sees on a global scale, Vasan looks at humanity’s cyclical psychosis, and how we are doomed by our propensity to repeat acts of aggression, cruelty, and destruction.

Until May 15 Spiritutainment 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd | 02-6841527 | Thu-Sun 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com | BTS Chitlom S.E.A. Write Award-winning author Prabda Yoon turns his hand to art curation and artistic production in this group exhibition by Thai and international artists. With religion long seducing the masses through spectacle, pomp and ceremony, the group of seven artists, which includes Peggy Wauters from Belgium and Thailand’s Krit Ngamsom, contemplate the relationship between religion and entertainment.

art exhibitions

Until May 15 Surgery-Fat woman-RepairFeng Shui- Diary-Stranger Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tue-Sat 10:30am- 7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com Along with Numthong’s Raw, this is another exhibition to feature six emergent Thai artists. Banded together as the Merge Visible Layers group, the artists utilise a range of twoand- three-dimensional mediums to present idiosyncratic themes, which include body modiﬁcation, the potentiality of Feng Shui, and Bangkok’s destitute.

Until May 21 Raw Numthong Gallery, Room 109, Bangkok Co-op Building,Toeddamri Rd | 02-2434326 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm | www.rama9art.org/gallery/numthong | BTS Ari Ahead of opening a newly built gallery space later this year, Numthong displays six artists who produce small-scale works on paper. Artists Tawan Wattuya, Angkrit Ajchariyasophon, Tawatchai Puntusawasdi, Teerapol Hosanga, Promthum Worawut, and Kedsuda Lukthong, employ two-dimensional drawing, watercolour, and acrylic, as an integral element of their creative process. Until June 19 Chiang Mai Now! Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) | 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium Having run an artsy café along with Angkrit Gallery and studio, Chiang Rai artist Angkrit Ajchariyasophon assumes a curatorial role for new showcase exhibition Chiang Mai Now! Proﬁling 12 art collectives, community based cultural activities, artist residencies, and experimental platforms, the exhibition highlights the diversity and resourcefulness of the northern cultural scene. www.bangkok101.com

arts

may 2011

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Aksra Theatre

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll ﬁnd it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can ﬁnd diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmajor.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular 600-capacity theatre located by the Victory Monument, with an interior lined with wood carvings, experience hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. This is family entertainment of the reﬁned kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร คอมเพล็กซ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to watch contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but also an entire arts complex, comprising of classes, residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions: the shows are world-class because of it.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร

may 2011

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, the performance here is hailed as 'a showcase of Thailand'. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 local performers journey whirlwindlike through seven centuries of storied Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests arrive to experience this spectacle nightly. In shor t, it's a spectacular showcase of eye-popping poignancy.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมรวมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.22), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.22), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.69).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

arts

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TCDC (THAILAND

CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon always fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปง คอมเพล็กซ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต

BRITISH COUNCIL (MAP C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคานซิล สยามสแควร

GOETHE INSTITUT (MAP C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ สาทร ซ. 1

JAPAN FOUNDATION (MAP D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

CHECK ALSO: ■ BANGKOK MUSIC SOCIETY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ THE BELGIAN CLUB OF THAILAND (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain. Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre is currently nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting a space of 3,000sqm for displaying exhibitions. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแหงกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

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arts

may 2011

Arts

cinema

APEX SCALA (retro 1960s) Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Scala 02-251-2861,

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177

โรงภาพยนตสกาลา สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

angkok boasts world-class, state-of-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.35), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180.The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www. Please movieseer.com. stand while the king's anthem is Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew played in respect to Thailand’s Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok beloved visitors might assume that Thai ﬁlmic fare is limited monarch.

to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s bordertransgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com.

may 2011

เฮาส อารซเี อ ถ. พระรามเกา

KRUNGSRI IMAX THEATER (world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

MAJOR CINEPLEX RATCHAYOTHIN 1839 Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Mochit, MRT Paholyothin, then taxi | 02-511-3311

เมเจอรรชั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน

MAJOR CINEPLEX SUKHUMVIT 1221/39 sukhumvit Rd., North Klongtan | BTS Ekkamai | 02-3814855

เมเจอรสขุ มุ วิท ใกลสถานีรถไฟฟาบีทเี อสเอกมัย

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444

มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร ถ. พญาไท

SYNDROMES AND A CENTURY Apichatpong Weerasethakul | 2006 | $17.99 Despite having picked up the Palmes d’Or at Cannes 2010 with ‘Uncle Boonmee who can recall his past lives’, Apichatpong Weerasethakul remains beloved among international cineastes and relatively marginalised here in his own country. It probably didn’t help that his previous film Syndromes became Thailand's anti-censorship poster child after Weerasethakul refused to make four ruinous, ministry-mandated cuts in his film. As a result, Syndromes has remained undistributed in Thailand, and feted outside the country. As with his previous films, Syndromes is dreamily nonnarrative, and in thrall to the elusive undertow of memory. Like Blissfully Yours and Tropical Malady, the film is bifurcated – one half set in a country idyll, the other in a stark modern hospital, each section focused on the elliptical conversations between the hospital staff and their patients, one of whom is an elderly monk who dreams of angry chickens. Floating between absurdist humour, whispers of dread, and the borderline between imagination and memory, Syndromes is a perfect tone poem, all the more lovely for its strangeness. arts

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In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 82) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stores offer the latest in print, new and used. BANGKOK FOUND Alex Kerr | River Books | 316pp | $20 On the face of it, this is just another book by just another westerner out to fathom the unfathomable: this great, bafﬂing city. But Alex Kerr is not just another westerner. He grew up in Japan, won a prestigious literary prize there, knows Asia inside out. And this is what makes these essays about how he ended up here so engaging. Kerr opines on many trite topics (the wai and Grand Palace among them) but by contrasting Thailand with Japan and Asia at large he puts fresh, revelatory spins on them. Chapters we have already earmarked for rereading include his enjoyably rambling meditations on Thailand’s baroque notion of beauty (“etherealization” he calls it), its dance, ﬂowers, food and what he considers its greatest cultural capital, its “cult of gentleness”. Highly recommended, this book will open doors you didn’t even know were there.

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KILLER KARMA Nick Wilgus | B395 | Silkworm Books The latest in Nick Wilgus’s monastic mystery series. Father Ananda – a Bangkok homicide detective turned crimebusting monk – is called to a coastal wat in Chanthiburi where female ghosts, or phi krasue, are drawing crowds each full moon. Is it a hoax staged by monks looking to drive up ailing attendance figures? Or is, as one eco-warrior monk believes, the spirit world peeved at the destruction of local mangrove forests by fishing trawlers? When this agitator is murdered, Ananda, aided by his young sidekick Jak (the ghost-fearing believer to Ananda’s logical empiricist), investigates. This gripping, well-paced yarn has an eye-opener of a sub-plot (it wears its heart on its sleeve when it comes to Thai marine ecology) and offers insights aplenty into day-to-day temple life. Tom Waller’s faithful bigscreen adaptation of the first in the series, Mindfulness and Murder, just hit the cineplexes, and this could work just as well.

arts

reading FAMULOUS EATERIES Cranky Little Monster | B395 Awkward title aside, this is a neat idea – insider’s restaurant guide meets pocket-sized pack of cards. On each of the 52 cards is a description of a Bangkok food joint thought ‘famulous’ (famous and fabulous, get it?) by the creators, as well as the address, a map and the all important ‘Taxi Thai’. Clearly they’ve done their homework – but the selection itself is the clincher. From B9 bowls of boat noodles on Ratchathewi to suburban gems like Ladphrao’s Pathe, everyone will find something new to get their teeth into here. There are some obvious flaws of course: drop your cards on the street and you’ll be fishing around in the gutter. But also some practical uses/fun card-game potential too. You could pop a few in your wallet, say, for those moments when you’re flailing in Bangkok’s vast culinary ocean; or, even better, leave it in the lap of the Thai food Gods and deal them out to your friends: “Pick a card, any card!” etc.

may 2011

Arts

paradise found Chris Menist

Each month the crate-digging DJ duo behind the leftfield luk-thung, molam, and funk night 'Paradise Bangkok', Chris Menist and Maft Sai, delve into the more obscure corners of the Kingdom’s music.Their record label 'ZudRangMa' showcases the best of Thai music both old and new, and has a new shop on Thong Lor. For more information, check out: www.zudrangmarecords.com

he music industry is a fickle and difficult business, with tales of non-payment of royalties, rip offs and broken promises characterising musician’s experiences all across the globe. Thailand, needless to say, is no different, although the news is by no means all bad. The industry of yesteryear was based in Saphan Lek in China Town, and bands from different areas of the country would bring their compositions or their demos to the labels to get them released, sometimes signing their work over for next to nothing, sometimes getting a fair deal. Whilst early releases were pressed in India, the tapes having to make an arduous 7 months round trip, after a pressing plant was established on Petchaburi road, some musicians pressed their work privately in small runs, using the discs for promotion and distributing them to radio stations. One musician who took this approach to its logical conclusion was Noppadol Duangporn, with his band and label ‘Petch Phin Tong’ (Gold Diamond Phin). My first awareness of this true auteur of the Thai music scene was picking up the exceedingly rare, and musically unique, ‘Thai Northeast Local Music’ LP on the Phin Khaen label. Whilst containing some fairly traditional molam from the Isan region of Thailand, it contained one total killer, ‘Soul Lam Plearn’, possibly one of the most immediately accessible molam tracks ever created. A simple, hummable riff is beefed up by fatback drums, and a see-sawing bass line. Its immediate effect can be felt on almost any dancefloor. Noppadol started life as a manual rickshaw driver,

may 2011

eventually ﬁnding a way out via music, moving on to comedy and movies later on. Whilst recording the above mentioned volume for the Bangkok based Phin Khaen label, which had been set up to release music for the local Isan audience who had migrated to the capital in search of work, it was with the Petch Phin Tong label that he created an independent industry based in Isan, recording local bands for a local audience. This focus would see him become an ambassador for the music and culture of the region, eventually playing for the King and Queen of Thailand. The label, like its Bangkok counterparts, would stretch itself out creatively, releasing everything from solo phin (3 stringed local guitar) and khaen (bamboo mouth organ) tracks, to genre crunching cuts such as 'Kor Kai' by Montein Teinthong, which could almost pass for a piece of rerouted Nigerian highlife, or 'Isan Ban Kong Hao' by Piya Takoonratch with its sample worthy drum loops and organ stabs. Whether it was well established stars or one off bands who created maybe one or two records, the label showcased the broad range of local talent, which may have never got the chance to release their creations to the public. It’s a body of work, and in some ways, a social enterprise that still resonates today nearly 40 years later.

arts

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P H OTO F E A T U R E

Respect by Chayapol Busboonniam

A world-renowned TV talent-show has grabbed the Thai imagination – and headlines – in recent weeks, inspiring a groundswell in national pride (as well as a few laughs). But long, long before this imported TV franchise gave a live public platform to the Kingdom’s frustrated performers, the Bangkokbased 4toArt Group was doing something similar for its scores of amateur photographers. Each week snappers from across the land send their best efforts in to this online photo collective, which are then posted up in virtual galleries which the public can admire and critique. The best three submissions each month win prizes – and no small amount of kudos from their peers. In recognition of this noble, talent-nurturing endeavor, and the quality of the work submitted, this month we present a gallery featuring some winning photos from the past year. It’s been tough handpicking our favourites, but we think you’ll find the following are all notable both for their technical brio, and their striking, singular take on the Kingdom they were shot in.

Photography by the 4toArt Group

P H OTO F E A T U R E

n Farmers

by Thanabordee Boonpa

Relax by Kookiat Jamsri

I want warming By Chintana Limpongsa

Drama by Suriya panikom

P H OTO F E A T U R E

Kindness by Chayapol Busboonniam

Together by Ampaporn Satanpop

Phu Chee Fah by Samphan Prasertpoomdumrong

Happy day by Weerayut Piriyapornprapa

P H OTO F E A T U R E

Faith by Weera Weeraphan

Muay Thai by Wirat Wareeputsorn

Curve By Chayapol Busboonniam

Outdoor Cinema by Wirat Wareeputsorn

Food&Drink

dining in bangkok

ood is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way that Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared with everyone at the table; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

may 2011

Crêpes & Co

ataste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round

food & drink

the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites. If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a nonstop gastronomical journey.

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Until July Tapas Festival Crepes & Co. Tease your taste buds by choosing from an extensive selection of cold and hot tapas; including seafood dishes, meat and cold cuts, tasty vegetarian options, refreshing salads and many other Spanish delicacies. Continue with Spain’s most famous dish, paella, done Valencia style and finally indulge yourself with the restaurant’s mouth-watering desserts. Savour this together with tasty and authentic drinks: sangria and Jerez, two of the most popular Spanish aperitifs. Wine lovers can also choose some carefully selected promotion wines offering great value-for-money. www.crepes.co.th

Ongoing Manohra Dining Cruise Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa No visit to Bangkok is complete without a trip on the historic Chao Phraya River. Board one of Manohra Dining Cruise’s beautifully restored antique rice barges and discover delightful cultural gems. Delve into an exotic Thai cuisine with the latest silver menu selection, now available at B1,400 per person, promising a sumptuous variety of seven memorable courses. Manohra Cruises departs from Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa pier at 7:30pm every evening. 02-476-0022 ext. 1416, www.manohracruises.com

All Month All Month Special Songkran Menu Special Thali Lunch Set Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok Shanghai Mansion To celebration the 11th consecutive Boutique Hotel year of winning the prestigious Best Restaurant award 2011, Rang Mahal offers a special Buy 1 Get 1 Free Thali Lunch Set promotion this May. Enjoy a choice of chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetarian, paired with a perfect combination of kebab, home-made yogurt, freshly baked naan, Indian basmati rice and much more. Try this extravagant menu while it’s still available. 02-261-7100; facebook.com/rembrandtbkk

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Shanghai Mansion Boutique Hotel is delighted to welcome the beginning of Summer with a special Songkran menu at Cotton restaurant. Created by Executive Chef Preeda Praphasri, these traditional Cantonese dishes bring a unique Chinese touch to the beginning of the summer and add a unique flavor to the Songkran holidays. Enjoy an exquisite meal at Cotton restaurant and savour the gourmet creations today. 02-221-2121, contact@shanghaimansion.com

food & drink

meal deals Until 30 June Afternoon Tea Set Glen BarPullman Bangkok King Power Hotel Make your afternoon meeting a different experience at the Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel’s Glen Bar, with a Modern Afternoon Tea Set. Created by Executive Pastry Chef Cyrille Vero, your favourite treats are accompanied by a glass of bubbly, while free Wi-Fi is included. Served 2pm-5pm, the price is B410 nett per person. 02-680-9999; www.pullmanhotels.com

Ongoing Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin Siam Kempinski Hotel Close your eyes and imagine the definitive Thai spicy soup Tom Yam Goong. Then take a sip of Sra Bua's Tom Yam Goong from the newly launched menu. This is Tom Yam Goong like you never imagined. The familiar piquant taste is there, but the presentation is totally new and inspiring. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin at the Siam Kempinski Hotel has introduced a new world of traditional Thai cuisine served in a radically different way. Dinner Menu B2,400++ (7 courses), B1,800++ (3 courses); and Lunch Menu B1,500++. 02-162-9000; www.kempinski.com

may 2011

Food&Drink

street eats

EASAE YAOWARAT A Hainan Chinese slang word invented by the founder, Easae means prosperity, something this Chinatown coffeeshop-cum-family home has seen rather a lot of judging by its enduring popularity. Now run by the fourth generation son Khun Sivakorn, its 84-year-old story is intertwined with that of his great-grandfather, who was one of the thousands who left his homeland to seek his fortune here. “Like many,” Khun Sivakorn says, “my greatgrandpa emigrated from China to Thailand and settled in Bangkok’s Chinese neighbourhood.” “After starting out as a carpenter,” Sivakorn adds, “he opened up this coffeeshop in 1927”. Over the years Easae has relocated three times, but always kept the little Yaowarat community centre feel its customers – Chinese uncles predominantly – savour. The beverages haven’t much changed either, still including o-liang (traditional iced coffee), o-yua (traditional hot coffee) and cha yen (iced-tea). Being delicious-iced-teahunters, we can vouch that Easae’s version is excellent. Also a must try, but more unusual, here is heng-yin, almond extracted blended with fresh milk. And who would have thought that jam could be drunk? Order in their cold marmalade jam drink and you’ll discover that

may 2011

it can be as good in a cup as it is slathered on bread. They also serve food, like soft-boiled eggs (very good with pepper and soy sauce), as well as some desserts, like their signature kanom pung sankaya: coconut egg custard, or sankaya, eaten either as a topping on toast or dipped into steamed homemade bread. Having grown up on sankaya, we can one guarantee you that Easae’s is the bees knees, with a pure egg taste that you won’t find elsewhere. Other toppings available include jam or even chilli paste. As for Easae’s atmosphere, its fun perching on a wooden stool inside the tatty blue shophouse, along with all the Yaowarat uncles (or grandpas?) nattering away in Chinese. Like your peace and quiet? Then order take-away, or visit in the late afternoon, when the sound levels are more bearable and you might even have this old Chinatown gem all to yourself. A tip: as it’s not on the main road finding Easae can be a tad tricky. When you walk down to Yaowarat Road’s Cha Learm Buri junction, enter the first alley on the right, and you’ll spot it.

เอี๊ยะแซ เยาวราช ถ.เยาวราช-พาดสาย

WHERE 42 Yaowarat - Padsai Rd, Sumpunthawong, 02-221-0549, 081-573-3388 OPEN Daily 5:30am-9pm PRICE $

food & drink

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Street Food Hotspots

SUKHUMVIT SOI 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. CORNER OF SILOM/CONVENT ROAD The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. PRATUNAM Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. CHINATOWN Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork.

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ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

SILOM MOO PING Strolling along Bangkok’s Silom road, it’s not the drinking holes or the tourist market stalls that my eyes are drawn to, but rather the cheap take-away food stalls that congregate here. It’s crazy, I know. While others are out scouring the narrow walkways for trinkets, fake watches and t-shirts, I’m like an addict gagging for their next fix, hunting for something I can grab and gobble on the move. Silom has a lot of streetfood to choose from, but my – and many people’s – all time favourite is moo ping: fatty BBQ pork on wooden sticks. There are two options in the area, both offering tasty variations on the same thing only at different times. During the day, near the pork stew noodle shop on the corner of Soi Saladaeng, is a little griddle manned by two brothers. They flip the rows of porky-bliss over white hot charcoals, sending out plumes of smoke that swirl down the street, causing reflex drooling fits in passing moo ping fans. Marinated in a coriander root, garlic and black pepper mix and perfectly bite size, their sticks really hit the spot, especially when enjoyed with their spicy tamarind sauce and little balls of sticky rice. Similarly, the B10 sticks sold on the 7/11 corner of Soi Convent and Silom Road each night, from about 9pm onwards, are equally yummy. This cart, manned but a man so plump his nickname is P’ Ouan (Mr Fat), is legendary among Silom’s night owls, who queue up for as long as 15 minutes once the clubs close. For them – and me, on occasions – moo ping is a hangover prevention tool, soaking up excess alcohol. Indeed, it’s not overcooking things to say that moo ping is multi-talented. It can be wolfed down on the street, or a no fuss light meal enjoyed in front of the TV. Believe it or not it can even be party food. Whenever my friends have a get-together, and I inevitably get assigned the task of feeding everyone, moo ping is always at the top of my shopping list – and the first snack to disappear.

food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

restaurants

featured

restaurant

THARA THONG

WHERE Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoenkrung Road Soi 30, Bangrak (free hotel ferry from Saphan Taksin hotel pier); 02-266-9214; www.sheraton.com. OPEN 6pm-10:30pm PRICE $$ 52

may 2011

Luxurious riverside setting? Sumptuous teak décor? Graceful service? Real Thai flavours? The Royal Orchid Sheraton’s Thara Thong ticks all the boxes for a Thai supper to remember. Encased in warm teak and ornate carvings, the main dining room with vaulted ceilings features cushioned seating at sunken tables, similar to Japanese hori kotatsu, and, depending on which way you face, beautiful river views. As for the staff, they impart excellent recommendations when you ask, shuffle around silently, clearing away dishes or topping up glasses, when you don’t. Also, adding to the Thai mystique of it all, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays female dancers glide out at points during your meal to perform lively indigenous dances. There’s no hiding it – Thara Thong is a bit touristy, designed to make you go wide-eyed and provide a few contrived photo ops to boot; but the truth is that even locals who’ve seen it all before can’t argue with its flavours. Though tenderly spiced, and often presented in unexpected ways, these are rooted in traditional Royal Thai cuisine. The mieng kham, a do-it-yourself appetizer available through May, is a highlight. Savoury-sour condiments – typically ginger, peanuts, cubes of fresh lime, dried shrimp, coconut flakes, and chili peppers – are rolled together in a dark green bai cha pluu (wild tea leaf) and then eaten in one feisty bite. Here mieng gets the five-star treatment, is paired with upmarket ingredients like salmon, scallops, and quails eggs. Other standouts include the cubed lemongrass salmon, which is so tender and fragrant you’ll refuse to pass the plate round; the duck with deep-fried sticky rice and rustic, spicy jeaw sauce; and the tom som soup with deep fried garoupa. The latter dish, with its complex flavours all anchored around sour, suggests that there is a real home-style cook in the kitchen. Which there is: head chef Charoensri Vatanayut has been here almost as long as the hotel, and prides herself on her respect for tradition (even if she does like to throw the odd culinary curveball in to the mix at times).

รร.รอยัล ออรคิด เชอราตัน ถ.เจริญกรุง food & drink

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featured

IZA

restaurant

WHERE 115 Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor), 02-712-7836; www.facebook.com/izabkk. BTS Thong Lor OPEN Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-midnight PRICE $$

From the outside, it’d be easy enough to categorise Iza as yet another exclusive and expensive Japanese dining option for Thong Lor’s hiso Thais and moneyed expatriates. It has a large open-air lounge for evening schmoozing, a prominent location opposite the Marketplace lifestyle mall, and a stylish exterior of plate glass and sharp lighting that almost warrants a velvet rope. Sometimes, though, first impressions can be deceiving, for as it turns out, Iza (short for izakaya) is one of the most welcoming restaurants we’ve had the pleasure to review in Bangkok. Like the menu, the décor of Iza is best described as international Japanese, the kind of place you are more likely to find in California than Kobe. Downstairs is the sake bar, the space dominated by a stainless steel spiral staircase, partially wrapped by a display of spirit bottles. Here, patrons can order sushi and salads – such as the ‘Twilight in BKK Roll’ (B280), seaweed wrapped raw fish with a spicy Thai sauce, and Wasabi Maguro salad (seared tuna, B280) – made by chefs working behind the adjoining counter, and sit back with a bottle of imported sake. Upstairs is the more formal dining room, lined completely on one side by lounge seating, with more conventional tables along the opposite wall. The most intriguing feature here is the large hole inset in every table. Protected by a cover, it is designed to accommodate a basket of white hot coals – a barbecue for grilling your own meat. If you’re hungry enough, order the Shogun Platter (B1,300 for large) – a selection of choice cuts of beef – then sit back as things hot up. Lastly, if you’re a fan of mochi (Japanese ice cream in dough), make sure you order the berry-flavoured Harajuku Paradise (B90). In short, you should throw away all preconceptions and enjoy Iza’s good value, excellent flavours, and stylish setting.

อิซา สุขุมวิท 55 (ทองหลอ)

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food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

restaurants

featured

restaurant

WHERE 2/F, Seenspace, Thong Lor 13, 02-185-2361; www.facebook.com/ bonchonthailand BTS Thong Lor OPEN Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri & Sat 11am-midnight PRICE $$

BONCHON CHICKEN Hailing from the South Korean city of Pusan, the first branch of BonChon Chicken opened there in 2002, serving up ‘healthier, crispier, and juicier’ chicken, with little grease and zero Trans fats, and coated in either soy garlic or spicy soy garlic varieties. It quickly became a local favourite, with outlets opening all across the East Asian country. By the end of 2007, BonChon had moved across the Pacific and opened up six restaurants in the north-eastern United States. It soon had the American food critics raving, praising the crunchy and non-greasy chicken, usually served up with cubed pickled daikon radish, and best accompanied by beer or flavored glasses of the Korean spirit soju (or both). Two young Thai girls studying at university in the States, Polly Wongsirikul and Tanya Sripatamasakul, found themselves agreeing. The successful result is a cool new spot in Thong Lor’s latest lifestyle mall, Seenspace. With almost a page to itself, item number one on the menu is BonChon chicken. First, you choose what

may 2011

part you want to eat (wings, drumsticks, boneless, or combo), and how many pieces you want (small B150, medium B230, or large B380), then select your ﬂavour (soy garlic or hot), and ﬁnally your choice of side (coleslaw, kimchi coleslaw, rice or sticky rice; the latter a Thai addition to the menu). Of the additional choices, order up a serving of pickled radish for B40, as well as the fried potstickers (gyoza, B120), BonChon seasoned fries (B100); and if you’re into gristle, the chicken joints (soy garlic or hot, B120) make for a great appetiser to go with lychee soju. When the main event arrives, it doesn’t take more than a few bites to see what had the American media chomping at the bit: the coated meat of BonChon fried chicken is absolutely delicious, and, as advertised, is crispy without being greasy. Kamsamnida Korea, from now on we’ll never look at the dirty bird quite the same way again.

ไกบอนชอง ทองหลอ 13

food & drink

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featured

TANYAMAMA restaurant As swish new condos continue to thrust up in the Soi Ari area, so do slick standalone restaurants catering to the young professionals that fill them. The latest, Tanyamama, is a townhouse conversion helmed by London-trained fashion designer, Tanya Tansaringkan, and featuring food by hip female fusion cook Chef Nokweed. She’s crafted an organic-produce only menu featuring cold, warm and hot starters, rice bowl and pasta mains, as well as grilled dishes like duck treasure with orange sauce and sirloin steak with sticky rice and jeaw sauce. Though they call it fusion, nothing is as odd as many of the dish names suggest – not that we’re complaining. The ‘Blackcat’ is a big bowl of steamed mussels, tossed in spicy tomatoes and pepper, dusted with garlic and cheese – comfort food, plain and simple. ‘Magic Mushrooms’ is a casserole dish of baked pappardelle and squid ink pasta thick with mushrooms and an odd, mildly spicy cheese sauce. More conventional dishes include an excellent Salmon Caesar Salad, and – the star of the meal – a dark, oozing chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice-cream and orange. Our overall impression was that this is lightly inflected not outright fusion – a good thing, in our opinion – and that many of these dishes are best shared, being a tad on the rich and heavy side. To accompany, there are sodas and smoothies, whites and reds by the glass, plus one of the smarter settings in the Ari area. Situated down a cul de sac lined with neo-classical pillared townhouses, Tanyamama’s leafy terrace exterior is thick with potted tropical plants and hanging foliage. The downstairs has a modern bistro feel, featuring cheque floors, red brick walls, banquettes and tangled light bulbs dangling overhead, like leftovers from an art-installation. And upstairs there’s a more private dining space, as well as a boutique stocking Tanya’s female clothing designs. On our weekday evening visit it was quiet, but on weekends you can bet Tanayamama will be bristling with Ari hi-rollers and housewives browsing magazines, thumbing their iPads and bemoaning the area’s rampant gentrification – it’s that kind of place.

WHERE 10/27 Soi Ratchakru ( Phaholyothin 5); 02-6173950; BTS Ari OPEN Mon-Sat 11am-10.30pm PRICE $$

ธัญยามามา ซ.ราชครู (พหลโยธิน 5)

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food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

isaan eats

Isaan food – Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine – is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (minced meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (spicy green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxi drivers through to their well-heeled passengers – has its Isaan enthusiasts. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which typically serves sticky rice with fists of fresh veg, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best ilk of Thai cuisine going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen, but a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over.

Baan Somtum

■ Baan Somtum 9/1 Soi Srivieng, nr Sathorn Road | BTS Surasak | 02-630-3486 | 11am-10pm | $ A smart townhouse serving 22 different types of Northeastern papaya salad, plus 80 or so other dishes. Highlights you might not have heard of include the gaeng hed poh (spicy popping-mushroom soup), and deepfried laab. Wallet-friendly prices. ■ Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to perch on a plastic stool? At Café de Laos you dine on rustic Issan nosh in a century-old teak house with – who’d have thought it? – solid tables that don’t wobble. You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. ■ Café Chilli G Floor, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan| 02-610-9877 | www.cafechilli.com | 11am-9pm | $ Upmarket Isaan delights meet airconditioned mall. Posh office princesses flock here at lunchtime to enjoy classics and innovations like grilled lamb rack with nam jim jaew dip and wonton-style rolls of sticky rice. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. 56

may 2011

Cafe De Laos

■ Hai Somtum 2/4-5 Soi Convent, off Silom Road | 02-631-0216 | Mon-Fri 10:30am9pm, Sat 10:30am-8pm | $ What it lacks in sophistication, Hai Somtum more than makes up for with plates of crispy-skinned grilled chicken, tart laab (minced meat salads) and, of course, somtum, all briskly served by efficient staff for just a shade above streetfood prices. Packed with office workers every weekday lunch and dinnertime. ■ Isan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rang Nam | 02-2464579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ Probably the best northeastern fare on Soi Rang Nam is served at this no-frills shophouse just across from the King Power Dutyfree Complex. Explosive som tum, a memorable gaeng om moo (pork stew with dill) and lots of spice-flushed local faces. Look for the Thai signage. ■ Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Withayu Rd | 02-655-8489 Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in nuggets of crispy-garlic, the gai tord (fried chicken) here is food & drink

the stuff of local foodie legend. Other notable Isaan dishes here include their nam tok salad with freakishly big strips of beef, and tom saep soup. Very busy at lunchtimes (and deservedly so). ■ Vientiane Kitchen 8 Naphasap Yak 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36 | 02-258-6171 | BTS Thonglo | $$ It’s a proper restaurant but don’t come expecting high-backed loungers and silk napkins: Vientiane Kitchen wears its bamboo furniture and ramshackle layout with pride. Sat beneath thatched-roofs, guests dine on classics as well as daredevil dishes like boiled ants’ eggs spicy salad. Includes lively Laotian music and Beer Lao. ■ Zaab Eli Thonglor Soi 10 | 02-392-2317 | 11am-midnight | $ The zaap-est (tastiest) Isaan joint in town? Thonglor’s young trust-fund hirollers certainly think so. Beside popular nightspots Funky Villa and Demo, it pairs the classics with inventive dishes like nam tok salmon (spicy sliced salmon salad) and tum melon yeep poon (Japanese melon spicy salad), as well as zany décor.

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GOLDEN VILLAGE

Dim sum way out near the airport? Don’t knock it till you’ve stuffed yourself silly on it. Anyone who’s flown out of Suvarnabhumi (pronounced Suvarnabhum – Thais drop the ‘i’) knows that while the place looks damn snazzy the food there leaves a lot to be desired: is expensive, not very tasty, not to mention sourly served in jostling school canteen-like surrounds. Ravenous highrollers with an outbound flight and a couple of hours to kill will be pleased to learn then that there’s another, more enticing option just next door: the Novotel Suvarnabhumi. Voted one of the best airport hotels in the Pacific region in a recent industry survey, this is a swish 612-room crashpad with all the high-end trimmings... but that’s not why you’re here. On its lobby floor is a lavish Chinese restaurant – all wood paneled doors, hand-painted ceramics, fine china and glittering chandeliers – with a grand à la carte menu, by head chef Prasit Jariyayothin, to match. Ok, so he isn’t from the mainland, but you wouldn’t know it from his renditions spanning Cantonese classics like braised abalone with oyster sauce, to Peking Duck, seafood hotpots, and of course, dim sum. The latter is especially good, starring big, hot, juicy mouthfuls like the steamed prawn or crab dumplings, and salapao (stuffed buns), all served in vented bamboo trays. It’s not super cheap, but why not have a blow-out before you fly out? Dim-sum fanatics can trim down the bottom line a bit by ordering in one of Golden Village’s Silver (B480 net), Gold (B720 net) or Platinum (B950 net) dim-sum platters. Worried about missing your flight home? Don’t be: free shuttle buses are on hand to ferry you back, totally unflustered as well as stuffed.

โกลเดน วิลเลจ รร.โนโวเทล สุวรรณภูมิ

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dim-sum

WHERE Lobby Floor, Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, 02-131-1111 ext. 1753, www.novotelsuvarnabhumi.com OPEN 11:30am-14:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm PRICE $$

food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

river cruises

Grand Pearl

RIVER DINING CRUISES

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 per person, depending on how well you dine, and last an average of three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner, though this should be conﬁrmed ahead of time. It’s also wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

may 2011

food & drink

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restaurants

Nahm

THAI NAHM (MAP C4) The Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Tai Road | 02-625-3333 | www.metropolitan. bangkok.como.bz | daily 7pm-10pm | $$$ There was much gnashing of teeth when the formerly Michelin-starred Nahm launched its Bangkok operation in September 2010. To have the ‘world’s best Thai restaurant’ run by a foreigner 9,544km away in London was bad enough; to have that foreigner – Australian David Thompson – open up a branch in the Thai capital was, for a few, a gauntlet too far. In the kitchen, Thompson is a traditionalist, whose dedication to his craft is such that he even sources recipes from so-called ‘funeral books’, in which old-time cooks

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at the end reveal their secrets, like deathbed confessions. Accordingly, he shows great finesse in dishes such as the southern curry of blue crab balanced with fiery spice, sweet coconut and bitter undertones; while a northern pork, prawn and tamarind relish is cutely served with braised mackerel, sweet pork, crispy acacia and soft boiled eggs. The local produce should delight diners who know Nahm in London, offering vegetables mysterious to foreign palates; flavours that seem to trigger unknown synapses in the brain. At B1,700++ per person, the set menu is a good option, including four canapes, five mains and dessert from the à la carte menu.

รร.เมโทรโพลิแทน สาธร

food & drink

THANYING (MAP B4) 10 Pramuan Rd., between Silom 17 and 19 | BTS Surasak | 02-236-4361, 02-235-0371 | www.thanying.com | 11.30am – 10pm | $$ Prim and proper, this two-decade strong Thai restaurant is housed in a gated garden townhouse, set back from the road and run by a Princess’s son and his actor business partner. Inside, a stately dining experience awaits, with royal portraits looking on as impeccably smart and attentive (but never hovery) waiters serve highsociety sorts sat in tall-back wooden chairs. The menu of simple Thai looks unextraordinary – until the dishes prepared to the exacting standards of the Sukhothai Royal Court arrive. On our visit even the mainstream ones you find everywhere were captivatingly rendered. The Tom Yum Goong soup for example had a haunting perfume herbal hint to it; while the look chin pla (fish ball) green curry was delicate, beguiling: thick with sweet basil, fresh galangal strips and juicy fish balls. Dessert selection is slim but equally well done (try the tangy ripe mango served with sticky rice ball). It might be too stiff for many, but Thanying is undoubtedly a gem, up there with the best fine dining

may 2011

Food&Drink establishments in town, especially as it’s so reasonable. Barring a splurge on seafood, a meal for two, minus wine, should come in well under B1,000.

Paris Bangkok

ทานหญิง ถ.ประมวล

INTERNATIONAL IRON FAIRIES (MAP E4) 394 Soi Thonglor (opp. Soi 13) | 084520-2301| www.theironfairies.com | Daily 6pm-2pm | $$ This two-floor Thonglor shophouse is a factory by day that churns out – as the name suggests – iron fairies, characters from owner Ashley Sutton’s trilogy of “dark fairy stories”. And the shadowy grotto of old sewing machines, potion jars and iron machinery, designed to resemble the foundry in the book, at night turns into a bar. The food menu comprises five burgers (B240-B390) – decent homemade imported beef patties with assorted trimmings and wide circumference, not-too-fat-toget-in-your-mouth baps – plus a side dish or two. And that’s it. Seating is at metalwork benches or on low stools, with antique safes for tables. Drawings from the books are everywhere. Live old-time jazz fits perfectly – musicians appear nightly at the top of an antique spiral staircase – and black and white movies play on the upstairs wall. Iron Fairies could easily have been the mere schtick of merchandise; but it bellows good taste, and no little enjoyment, too.

ไอรอน แฟรีส ทองหลอ

FRENCH PARIS BANGKOK (MAP C4) 120 Saladaeng Soi 1/1 | 02-2331990 |www.parisbangkok.com| 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm | $$-$$$ This huge brasserie is an oddball mix of French and Thai – Parisian bar scenes, kinnaree statues, posters of old-time French advertising and traditional bamboo lunch boxes. There’s an open lounge garden, with a sliding roof for when it rains, and, in keeping with the brasserie motif, a large bar. The menu is building towards traditional French with stalwarts like cassoulet and coq au vin, but, judging 60

may 2011

food & drink

by the dishes we tried, cuisine here is still a work in progress. Among the starters, the goat’s cheese and apple pastry has a crispy case, resembling an apple turnover, and works pretty well (although a sharper cheese would be better), but the disappointing sea scallop Carpaccio and mango pesto was best described as bland, while a decent beef tartar and an okay strip loin were let down by greasy fries and an artificial-tasting pepper sauce. Still, the evening ended on a high of medium airy chocolate mousse and a fine lemon tart, the undoubted successes of the night. In sum, as its name suggests, Paris Bangkok has a split personality – and the food is a perfect match.

ปารีส แบงคอก ศาลาแดง ซ.1/1

ITALIAN ZANOTTI 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-636-0002 | 11:30am-2pm, 6pm10:30pm | www.zanotti-ristorante.com | $$$ Some 300 venues in Bangkok hope you might decide on visiting them whenever you crave Italian fare. But it’s this small place near Silom Road that is packed night after night, thanks to its pulsating but intimate air and authentic Tuscan treats. It’s low-ceiling and jampacked with tables – you’ll panic about knocking your neighbour’s wine glass off the table. This creates the perfect set for a vivacity typical of a Verdi opera. Don’t let yourself be rushed, though. Take it all in until your food arrives. www.bangkok101.com

Rediscover ravioli with fresh truffles, Osso Buco or the lamb tenderloin, all traditional classics. Check out the vast wine list, or battery yet stroll across the soi to peruse the impressive cellar at Vino di Zanotti, one of Bangkok’s finest wine bars. A perfect place to pair a prime Barollo with a spread of superb tapas, or with a Cuban from the humidor. Their parma ham and marscapone ‘Pizza Zanotti’ is to die for. Jazz riffs here are dished out nightly from a cool quartet.

ซานอตติ 21/1 ซ.ศาลาแดง

SOUTHERN THAI KHUA KLING PAK SOD (MAP E4) 10/4 Sukhumvit Soi 40 (10m from mouth of Soi 40) | Daily 11am-2pm, 6pm-9pm | 02-185-3977, 086-307-1850 | $$ Bringing blazing Southern cuisine (the country’s hottest) to a shabby sidestreet near you is this humble family restaurant. The simple one-room setup presents a handful of tables, Gustav Klimt prints on one wall and assorted family photos on the other. Here, mother and son recommend specialties off the brief, 10-item menu while aunty slaves away in the kitchen. Out they come. Small, sweat-raising plates of mad hot khua kling moo (fried pork in spicy paste) and dainty tod khamin(fried fish with turmeric and garlic). Others go for the sataw phad goong (a pungent bean stir-fried with Thai shrimp paste, or kapi, and prawns) and chow every last, bittersweet spoonful. We relished them all, but the dishes that really ping with flavour here are the khao yam, a rice and fresh vegetable salad that’s often eaten in the mornings but here dampens the dinnertime flames; and the kaeng lueang pla, the classic yellow Southern fish curry. Recommended.

รานคั่วกลิ้งผักสด สุขุมวิท 40 (ประมาณ 10 เมตรจากปากซอย)

VIETNAMESE DALAD (MAP C2) 36/7 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 (Ari) | BTS Ari | 02-271-2109 | 11am-10pm | $ Everything about this cute Vietnamese is inviting. From its flowery front patio, to its bright and simple faux-vintage interior, cosy atmosphere and mouthwatering menu, Dalad has got everything the Soi Ari’s lunch and dinner crowds crave. While it’s often true that appearances are deceiving, at Dalad, what you see is what you get. The staff are friendly. And the food fresh, tasty and inexpensive, with generous portions of the classics like pho (soup), pakmor (steamed flour rolls with shrimp) and the popular nem-noung (a set of grilled pork meatballs served with bouquet of fresh herbs and veggies) coming in at B60-150. A dish you definitely should not miss is the rarely seen kao peak yuan, a Vietnamese round noodle served in thick soup. Those who live in the area can talk advantage of the free delivery service. And those who don’t should relish the schlep out to Soi Ari, a hip residential enclave that’s well worth exploring.

ดาลัด พหลโยธิน ซ.7 (อารีย)

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food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

brunching

runching is big business in Bangkok, with plenty of both family-friendly and adults-only offerings to choose from. However, no matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the city serves up something to suit all tastes. Here we sample some of the best.

THE SQUARE, NOVOTEL BANGKOK ON SIAM SQUARE Located in the heart of downtown Bangkok, The Square at Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square couldn’t be in a much better location. It is surrounded by the trendy boutiques and cafes that make up the chic Siam Square neighbourhood, while on the opposite side of the nearby BTS station are the city’s holy mall triumvirate of Siam Discovery, Siam Centre and Siam Paragon. Because of this, it’s a popular place to stay for visitors from around the world, and is increasingly becoming a dining destination – offering hotel-class service, with globally-inﬂuenced cuisine. Novotel’s F&B outlets include La Brioche Deli Shop, which offers a selection of baked goods and savoury snacks; Lok Wah Hin Chinese Restaurant, a popular spot for dim sum and other Cantonese delicacies; Pastel Lobby Lounge, a meeting place for guests and businessmen; nightclub and live music venue Concept CM2; and The Square, which serves breakfast, lunch, dinner – and brunch. We visited the latter on a Sunday after an early morning shopping excursion around Siam. The compact size of The Square means that diners enjoy an intimate dining experience. With glass walls on three sides, you can also observe passers by in the street below, as well as guests walking through the lobby. WHERE 392/44 Siam Square As you’d expect at a Soi 6, Rama I Road, Pathumwan, 4-star hotel used to catering 02-209-8888; www.novotel.com to international visitors, there BTS Siam are a variety of food stations OPEN 11.30am-3pm to choose from. Depending PRICE Adults B850++ per person; on what you’re in the mood children 12-16 half price, for, take your pick from the children under 12 free pasta and Indian stations, seafood and sushi spreads, and selection of roast meats, among others. In addition, there is an extensive dessert table that includes a chocolate fountain, while the kids will be entertained at the children’s corner, with clowns, balloon making, cartoons and video games to keep them busy. In sum, with its blend of great location and culinary options, The Square is anything but.

featured

brunch

เดอะสแควร รร.โนโวเทล สยามสแควร ถ.พระรามที่ 1

may 2011

food & drink

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BUFFET VENUES ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B765net, Lunch 990net, Dinner B1,295net ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily Breakfast 6-10.30am (B700++), Lunch noon-2.30pm (B790++), Dinner 6-10.30pm (B1,190++ , B1,499) ■ PANORAMA RESTAUARANT Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ NO.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ LORD JIM’S BUFFET Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ ORCHID CAFÉ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ CITI BISTRO Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

buffet NO.43 ITALIAN BISTRO

Something must be said for a restaurant that has been able to withstand the test of time on Bangkok’s Italian heavy Soi Langsuan. Thirteen years old and counting, this spacious and inviting bistro done out in blonde wood keeps chugging along, and has aged much better than most hotel dining outlets in its age group. Plying its trade out of the ground floor of the Cape House Serviced Apartments, No. 43 leans heavily on rustic Italian classics. That said, its lunchtime buffet – a Soi Lang Suan institution that draws in office workers each weekday without fail – features not only Italian dishes, but a fair few Thai crowd-pleasers as well. A build-your-own fresh salad and antipasti bar featuring more dressings than you could possibly need, is complimented by a selection of surprisingly feisty local yum (salads). Four or five Thai mains, like red pork curry and deep-fried sea bass with Thai herbs, sit in hot plates alongside an equal number of Italian classics, such as salmon with dill cream and roasted chicken with orange sauce. WHERE Cape House Serviced Up at the far end, an open kitchen Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan also rustles up made-to-order pastas, then BTS Chit Lom, 02-658-7444 ext.285 delivers your fresh cooked plate of perfectly OPEN 11.30am-2pm al dente fettucine carbonara or ravioli, etc, PRICE B350net to your table. The pizza – thin crust, dressed with toppings like rocket and Parma ham – is pretty on the money too. The killer blow that makes this meal worthwhile (and a bit of a steal at B350net) though is dealt by the dessert bar. From little shot glass panna cottas topped with tangy fruit coulis to ice creams, tiramisus and a dark chocolate fountain flanked by skewered fruit and marshmallows, there can’t be a better spot on Lang Suan for a lunchtime dessert overdose (and if there is, you know where to find us). Prompt table service and free coffee included.

เคปเฮาสเซอรวิสอพารทเมนท ซ.หลังสวน

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food & drink

may 2011

Food&Drink

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine

DIVINO

WHERE diVino, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 02-7148723 | www.divinobkk.com OPEN 11:30am-2:30pm Mon Fri, 5pmmidnight Sun-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri and Sat

DiVino is a welcome addition to the local vino scene – a small, intimate space helmed by an ebullient Italian who really knows his labels, all 300 or so of them. Indeed, Roberto Ferin is not one of those winebar owners who only shows up to host his friends or fire somebody. He ushers guests in to his cosy, mock gothic wine cellar on Penny’s Balcony with an ease that soon has you chatting like old friends, and knows his stock so well he can flog an indecisive punter a bottle in seconds. Speaking of stock, there’s a formidable range of old and new world labels here, including some by the glass (B150-250) – lively ones, like Villa Solais’ full-bodied and straw-hued Vermentino from Sardinia. Because Italians don’t drink good wine without good food, Roberto, a talented chef who’s managed many of the city’s top Italians, including La Villa and L’Opera Riserva, gives equal attention to the victuals, serving free plates of tapas and antipasti, as well as imported cheese platters (B260 for 4 types, B490 for 8), à la carte mains and daily blackboard specials. Highlights include spinach ravioli in a creamy truffle mushroom sauce, and a lovely bollito (tender boiled beef leg) with salsa verde, imported artichoke and parma ham. Desserts are equally rich and indulgent, particularly the semifreddo, a semi-frozen tiramisu-like blend of amaretto, mascarpone, and raisins. Seating is inside, at tall stools with wooden wine barrel tables, or outside on Penny Balcony’s terrace, with its quickly retractable, monsoon-proof awning (ask for a demo – Roberto’s very proud of it). He’s also just added an extra space for more formal sitdown dinners, including his upcoming Chef ’s table parties (call for details). Yes, it’s a minnow compared to those huge, boorish wine bistros that are currently all the rage here, but when it comes to personality, service, expertise and keeping your customers happy, diVino could teach the big boys a thing or two. We’ll drink to that.

ดิ วีโน เพนนีส บัลโคนี ทองหลอ ซ.16

may 2011

food & drink

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex ﬂavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle ﬂavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Discover more at: www.thaiwine.org www.bangkok101.com

www.bangkokartmap.com

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food & drink

may 2011

Nightlife

one night in Bangkok

Oskar Bistro: Ooh La La

There’s a new bistro bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11, just down from Bed Supperclub. Run by a band of young Frenchmen, Oskar has a swish yuppie wine bar look and feel, a slim terrace for watching Soi 11’s comings and goings, a good selection of French-tinged food and wines (many by the glass), and, we’re happy to report, some of the best mojitos we’ve had the pleasure of getting tipsy on in ages. Their range of single malt scotches, cognacs and brandies is also impressive, and the DJ spun nu-disco soundtrack a welcome one. On Fridays there’s already a good buzz to the space, with an international crowd enjoying postwork/pre-club tipples. Look out for the bar review soon. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 |02-255 3377 | 5pm – late

Live Wire Act: Pussy and the Learjets Who are they? Pussy Om (vocals), Manis Ender (bass & backing vocals), Patrice L’Amour (drums), Tom Learjet (guitar & backing vocals). The Style: Dirty, loud garage rock inspired by 1960s American noise pioneers. The Buzz: They certainly talk the talk, calling their abrasive brand of rock-n-roll, “Grade A sonic napalm for eternally disaffected, secret romantics, jaded bohemians, danger-loving cuties and elegant oblivion seekers.” Recent feedback-heavy gigs at venues like Cosmic Café and Common Ground have proven that they walk it too. Their secret weapon is lead singer Pussy, demure Thai university student by day, feisty rock vamp at night. Where can I catch them? They’re constantly in and out of the capital – they’ve just come back from touring Cambodia – so add them on Facebook for news of upcoming dates.

‘In’ Parties, We Trust

Thonglor-Ekamai Mapped Out

Produced by Ekamai residents Sapphira and Steve Beaudin, new website www.thonglor-ekamai.com aims to track the ever changing Thonglor-Ekamai nightlife scene, making a good resource for hi-sos and trendsetters who want to stay clued up on all the new bars, clubs and restaurants springing up in the area (not to mention closing and imploding). The easy-to-navigate site features a detailed map drawn and researched by the meticulous Nancy Chandler clan, as well as regularly updated Twitter and Facebook feeds giving details on the latest openings, rumours and deals.

may 2011

nightlife

With most international DJs flying into Bangkok for Thursday night sets, then jetting off to Singapore for fat Friday night paychecks, Krung Thep’s self-styled party clans are the ones who usually get the groove going on weekends. Fortunately there are rather a lot of them: ‘Dudesweet’ spin indie/electronica to big crowds about once a month; the ‘Club Soma’ DJs put on indie-rock parties for the Britpop obsessives; and the ‘Paradise Bangkok’ boys have made a name for themselves by blending Thai folk you can actually dance to with raw world music. Meanwhile, the ‘Big Organization’ has just about cornered the market in boozy club crawls and roof-parties. Their regular monthly nights include the popular Sukhumvit 11 Club Crawl (1st Friday or Saturday of the month), MODE at Sukhumvit Soi 11 rooftop bar Nest (2nd Saturday), the Silom Club Crawl (3rd Saturday) and Revolution at Silom Soi 4 house grotto Tapas (last Saturday). Want to know more? All of the above can be found with a quick search on (where else?) Facebook. www.bangkok101.com

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nightlife

may 2011

Nightlife

Bed Supperclub

nightclubs Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping.

ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

Q Bar

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am With its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

may 2011

nightlife

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Calypso

Route 66

Cabarets CLUB CULTURE (map B3) Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall)| 089-4978422| www.club-culture-bkk.com | Wed – Sat: 8pm – late Club Culture comes from the brains behind the city’s much-loved annual dance music festival, Culture One. After being evicted from its home, a former Thai theatre on Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this faux-colonial, four-storey warehouse in the Old City back in early 2010, much to the relief of its regulars – a cross-cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning expats. Like the old days they aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, drum n bass and house music of all genres.

คลับ คัลเจอร ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง (หลังนิทรรศรตั นโกสินทร)

DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm-1am | free (except one-off parties) Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thonglor area is Demo – a former tenement building turned dark, graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a cool terrace and bar outside, and lots of space to throw shapes inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find teeming with hipsters in East London or, maybe, at a push, Berlin. It sounds like one too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop www.bangkok101.com

and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Demo offers an impressive range of beers, shots and cocktails and on weekends packs in a much more ‘inter’ crowd than its nearest rivals.

เดโม ทองหลอ ซ.10

ROUTE 66 (map E3) 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | www. route66club.com| free Thais / B200 foreigners (including two drinks) On the strip for 16 years, ‘Route’, as it’s affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. Once you’ve flashed your id at the burly bouncers, you’ve entered something akin to a brash nighttime themepark for the hard-ofhearing. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town). ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands cover local and inter hits in ‘The Novel’. Rammed with groups of dressedto-kill Thais on weekends, most of them loaded on their drink of choice, whiskeesodaa, Route is not a good place to lose your mates after one too many but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the relatively chilled outdoors area. Drinking tip: do as they do and split a bottle between you.

รูท 66 อาร ซี เอ

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

may 2011

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below. Threesixty

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and heart-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

may 2011

LONG TABLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน สุขุมวิท ซ.16

nightlife

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 |6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights. The music is good, and the view through the floorto-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

PANORAMA (map C3) Crowne Plaza, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | crowneplaza.com.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร.คราวน พลาซา ถ.พระราม 4

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MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02-624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable openair bar are in place at the Mediterranean-themed Amorosa. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or instead come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is also just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day spent temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant, The Deck, and six lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

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nightlife

may 2011

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

CM2

to the ever popular Belgium beer bar Hobbs, over on Thonglor. Quite apart from its thirst quenching qualities, however, the BeerVault is a convivial spot, one we recommend for early evening drinks. Thanks to its streetside location and floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows overlooking it, it feels more like a buzzy standalone boozer than your usual bleak hotel bar, and as well as happy hours from 5:30-7:30pm, there’s a free salad bar. Any chance of a lock-in?

รร. โฟรพอยทส บาย เชอราตัน ถ.สุขุมวิท 15

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-2098888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 10pm-2am | facebook.com/conceptcm2 The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in fourteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. A renovation a few years back made way for more lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the international live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? It is a bit; but still a fun (and eye-opening) night out. International/Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s strongest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge.

BEERVAULT (map D3) Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 |BTS Asok | 02-304-3200 |www. fourpoints.com|11.30am-12pm Lower Sukhumvit may be studded with noisy Brit, Irish and Aussie pubs catering to beer lovers but ironically none can match the brew selection of the Four Points Sheraton’s snazzy little hotel bar. Only 80 count ‘em paces from Sukhumvit Road, this snug glass and brick box with a colour-changing column lined with flatscreens dangling over its central bar, serves no less than 48 bottled brews and six on tap (as well as wines and shandy and beer cocktails to keep the ladies happy). Many of them hail from Belgium, making the BeerVault the first serious downtown alternative

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ระหวางสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

BeerVault

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร สยามสแควรซ.6

CM2

may 2011

nightlife

www.bangkok101.com

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252-6572 | BTS Chit Lom | 6pm-1am; closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays of the month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety holein-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in the- know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok ginpalaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชารลีย ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

HYDE & SEEK (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www. hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ This flash downtown gastro bar with a spacious outdoors terrace draws the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind New York’s successful Kittichai, while the bar is fuelled by regional cocktail consultancy www.bangkok101.com

Flow. The sleek, Georgian influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, artisanal cocktails or Belgian ales.

bars

แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ ซ.รวมฤดี

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084- 520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor |www. theironfairies.com Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — that just happens to serve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam filmset. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a well-mixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine.

WTF

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่สแอนดโค ซ.ทองหลอ

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini | 02-286-1558 | Mon-Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี nightlife

The Iron Fairies & Co

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02- 626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www. wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm- 1am (gallery open from 3pm) This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. Occasional leftfield live gigs, art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and a mix of local indie hipsters, NGO workers, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with, make this one of the hippest and most cerebral drinking holes in the city.

ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

may 2011

Nightlife BANGKOK ROCKS (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

live music

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

SAXOPHONE PUB (map C3) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02-246-5472 | www.saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am The cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Just a stone’s throw away from the Victory 74

may 2011

Monument Sk y tr ain Station, it’s nevertheless not a tourist hub. Filled with masses of fun-fi lled, youngish Thais and the odd foreigner thrown in, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, lowceilinged, wood-filled floors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare served by friendly but mainly non-English-speaking staff. If you have a problem with crowds, come on a weeknight, play some pool and let friendly university students use you as walking dictionaries.

แซกโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท

รร.เดอะคีย สุขุมวิท ซ.19

RAINTREE PUB (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists

BRICK BAR (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

nightlife

Saxophone Pub

Brown Sugar

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strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

รานจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย

PARKING TOYS (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage (here the choice of name becomes a little clearer) it’s a pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Parking Toys has a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can variously catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. With no nearby BTS or MRT station, it’s a hike, but well worth the effort. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s.

ปารคกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with www.bangkok101.com

everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. In sum, it offers great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations are a must for large groups.

โรงเบียรเยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything Van Halen and Motorhead covers.

เดอะ รอคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nippleraising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซบาร สุขุมวิท ซ. 22 nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

may 2011

Nightlife

Bamboo Bar

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ระหวางสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

may 2011

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier

nightlife

hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very

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hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok institution is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must, even if just the once.

รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jawdropping jazz venue. Each night its dressy crowd soaks up that cameragrabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Cynthia Utterbach. Her sultry renditions – spanning bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร

NIU’S ON SILOM (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am Located not far from the Chao Phraya, this New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry

and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available.

นิวส ออน สีลม บานสีลม

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ. สารสิน

Niu’s on Silom

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Brown Sugar

nightlife

may 2011

Nightlife

featured

pub

pub crawls

Balcony Humidor

CIGAR LOUNGES

THE LONDONER Descending the steps to this basement-based boozer leads to a store of surprises: what lurks behind the heavy art deco-style doors is a cavernous space punctuated by minimal lighting, nicotine-colored walls and a wood and brass finish which lend the place a subterranean speakeasy feel. The huge freestanding bar dominates the entrance but the place seems to go on forever and fits in a large stage, bistro and even a brewery. Enjoy the extensive menu in your choice of cosy booth, bar stool or raised dining area. The highlight for ale lovers is the palatable London Pride bitter and London Pilsner 33, brewed onsite. Both are a refreshing change from the usual imported beers. The pub’s loyal following also come for the 15 screens, making it a very popular venue for big sports events. With two pool tables, darts, bi-monthly quizzes, 2 for 1 drinks on Wednesdays, nightly happy hours (4pm-7pm, 11pm1am), a Sunday buffet and the resident house band, it’s no surprise that the Londoner pulls in scores of punters night in, night out. Aside from being a little pricey, the only downsides are the waitresses’ tacky WHERE Basement, UBC II beefeater outfits, but they Bldg, Sukhumvit Road (mouth do look better as the night of Sukhumvit Soi 33); 02-261wears on! 0238-9; www.the-londoner.com

อาคารยูบีซี 2 สุขุมวิท 33

BTS Phrom Phong OPEN 11am-1am

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from the Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ ■ BALCONY HUMIDOR & CIGAR BAR P&L Club Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 ■ CLUB PERDOMO BANGKOK 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight ■ LA CASA DEL HABANO The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com ■ P&L CLUB GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

may 2011

nightlife

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Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak SATHORN ROAD

THANIYA

PATPONG

SILOM ROAD

1 CONVENT ROAD

SURASAK ROAD

Pubs 101

SILOM AREA PUBS

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

SUKHUMVIT AREA PUBS

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SOI 39

SUKHUMVIT ROAD

BTS Asoke

SOI 22

SOI 12

BTS Nana

SOI 6

SOI 4

SUKHUMVIT ROAD

SOI 35

SOI 11

SOI 13

SOI 33

SOI 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky ﬂesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map, and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE BOUTIQUE

MOB. F t’s pretty hard to pass through Siam Center these days without seeing the

WHERE 4th Floor, Siam Center | 02-658-1491~2 | www.mob-f.com | BTS Siam PRICES B1,200-B6,500 80

may 2011

massive banners and pop-up displays, advertising it’s fourth floor pioneer store, Mob.F. We peeked in and found that it is the top all-in-one spot to get the lowdown on current Thai designers. Since it’s grand opening back in early 2010, Mob. F’s two consultants and managing director have done quite the job at rounding up all of the newest collections and brands from aspiring and established Thai designers, making it the “first-ever multi-brand store”. And trust us getting picked isn’t an easy task. It’s important that the products must have attitude and personality. The store’s main goal is not to necessarily sell clothes that follow the trends in detail, but have stand out pieces that don’t just state your individuality, but scream it. With that said, twenty seven fashion and bag brands and fifteen accessory brands made the cut. The 1,000m² space is chockfull of little booths, which mimic a typical department store without the stale, florescent lighting and annoying sales people. Weaving in and out of stalls, you transport into completely different atmospheres; In Bean of Jack, you’ll find life-size Rubik’s Cubes and spaceage helmets and then mere metres away you saunter over to Aztique, which sells feminine handmade jewelry inspired by nature. It’s kind of like taste-testing at an ice-cream parlour, each a taste is a different flavor, but somehow you want them all. And speaking of tasty, Mob.F also includes White Café XS, which hosts a variety of art exhibitions. Mob. F parallels the perfect fashion community, putting designers, who have only been at it roughly a year in the same room as designers who’ve won awards and have traveled down the catwalk. It’s a great platform for the newbies to compete with the big dogs. The fashion rebels have stormed the building and they aren’t leaving quietly.

สยามเซ็นเตอร

shopping

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Shopping Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more. Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

u ri roa

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

phetb

Phaya Thai road

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

E R AWA N B A N G KO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal art from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri road 4

5 6 7

BTS Chitlom

chidlom

lang suan road

may 2011

rd.

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

d. ya r S i phra

kru ng

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Very chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

charoen

BTS Ploenchit

ra river

phy

chao

WITTHAYU road

CENTRAL CHIT LOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

phetburi road

ploenchit road

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom Allwhite interior features glitzy, topclass brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

s u rawong

JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

silom

shopping

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demand for unique-to-Thailand fashion is on the rise. In celebration of this happy fact, each month we cross-examine one of the labels driving this longterm trend, be it a rising star with a point to prove, or a local powerhouse with prêt-à-porter mall stores in the capital and international catwalk clout.

fashion 1-on-1

Painkiller’s Siriorn Teankaprasith: Injecting feminine wit into men’s fashion Describe Painkiller’s ethos and signature style? Minimal, romantic menswear. Our collections are usually inspired by words lifted from novels, poems, lyrics etc. We translate those writings into clothes that tell a story. The clothes are neatly produced in a small atelier house run by the brand itself: we aspire to preserve pride in design and true clothes making. How did you get into fashion? I love clothes, my grandma was a dressmaker... I think it’s in my blood. When I turned 17, I took a plane to Paris to study fashion design. Why did you choose to design men’s, not women’s, fashion? Menswear has all these restrictions that you need to respect: the cuttings, neatness, comfort, colours, etc. I just find the design process that much more challenging than woman’s clothing. Who are your fashion heroes? Miuccia Prada; she blends art and fashion perfectly. What is your view on the Thai fashion industry as things stand? We are more powerful than before – accepted, respected, even copied. Big houses and upcoming designers are working really hard to stand out internationally, but on the other hand there’s another section of the Thai Fashion industry that copy and undercut prices... I am so ashamed by this act. Tell us about your new Spring/Summer collection. Inspired by a short story by M.R. Kukrit Pramoj, for this summer’s collection we’ve gone retro yet colourful. The cuttings are classic, loose and comfortable with hidden details. Where do you shop for your own threads? Most of my clothes are vintage pieces bought from Pattawikorn market, Union Mall, Jatuchak etc. What local labels will we ﬁnd in your wardrobe? I love Soda but I’m too chubby to wear them. I also love Matina Amanita’s jewelry. What are Thai menwear dos & don’ts? Don’t dress too much, effortless style is hotter. This rainy season, what should we menfolk be wearing to stay dry but also dapper? A light, short, water resistant parka is good for rainy season. Pair that with a neatly cut shirt to create an effortless modern gentleman’s look.

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shopping

Available at: • Painkiller, Room 323, 3rd Floor, Siamcenter | 02-658-1145 | http:// painkillerbkk.wordpress.com • Thai Designer Zone, 2nd Floor, Centralworld | 02-613-1173 may 2011

Shopping

jatujak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the ﬁttest: only those with ﬁnely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, citysized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for more spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. The Jatujak Market of Bangkok – Amber House Books | B1,950 | hardcover, by Simon Bonython 84

may 2011

shopping

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JJ Gem

of the month

ROTSANIYOM (รสน ยิ ม) This vintage fashion shop pairs retro Asian garments with classic international vintage style. With three separate stores spread around JJ, its first major collection was a unique sell-out selection of 1940s doll images printed onto T-shirts and dresses, a release that got vintage aficionados attention. Materials used include patterned white lace and printed chiffon. Their forest collection includes owl, deer, and wolf prints, while their maxi-dress and jump suits are current must-buy items. The fabrics used are soft, lightweight and ready-to-wear, while handbags, scarves, vintage glasses and other rare vintage accessories are also available. WHERE Section 2 Soi 40 | 081-304-2198

JATUJAK MAP

1 n io ct

Rd .

Section 4

TO VICTORy MONuMENT

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Section 9

Section 13

Section 15

Section 17

n io ct

Section 5

TO VIBHAVAdHI - RANGSIT Rd.

shopping

Section 12

Section 14

Section 10

6 C A Pu hat ENG P bl uc ic ha HET Pa k 3 Rd rk .

Section 16

Section 18

Section 20

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23 22 n io ct

Section 8

Clock Tower

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24 n io

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io ct Se

14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

N AE PH

K St am at ph io a n en

Ph et

Rd .

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

Chatuchak Park Station

Mo Chit Station

may 2011

Shopping

Talat Rot Fai

markets

TALAT ROT FAI (THE TRAIN MARKET) Kamphaeng Phet Road | Mrt Kamphaeng Phet | 6pm-midnight Saturday and Sundays This retro-inflected flea market just around the corner from Jatuchak Weekend Market is well worth the trip, for its hipster vibes and camerafriendly setup as much as what’s sold there. Hundreds of antique hounds and retro-mad dek neaw (teen hipsters) flock to this plot of State Railway department land on Saturday and Sunday evenings to browse and bargain for vintage collectibles, reproductions and fashions. And yet, the chance to pick up a beat up old Michelin Tyre sign, a vintage BMX, or a smelly pair of old trainers is only part of the appeal – flanking Talad Rot Fai is a row of decommissioned train carriages. You can take a stroll through them at your leisure, even kick back on the dusty seats with a cold beer or rocket soda. Backing up the carboot side of things is Rod’s: a railway warehouse turned 20th century antiques wonderland. And 86

may 2011

there are lots of snacks and drinks stalls (retro-inflected, naturally), many of them operating out of customised VW vans. Hop aboard, while you can.

ตลาดรถไฟ

RATCHADA NIGHT MARKET Saturday Nights | In the area from BTS Parking lot to The Criminal Court – Ratchadapisek | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight shopping

and your bargaining skills.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

SILOM ROAD/PATPONG Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are definitely essential here.

สีลม/พัฒนพงษ

KHAO SAN ROAD Along every budget traveller’s favourite www.bangkok101.com

sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in ‘novelty’ T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere new, sometimes bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of youngat-heart stuff are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale.

ถ.ขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (FLOWER MARKET) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around

SHOPPING TIPS

■ Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

เทเวศน

SUKHUMVIT ROAD The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail ■ Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. ■ Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real.

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shopping

boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

PRATUNAM Less than a ten minute walk north of CentralWorld, this sidewalk shopping maelstrom is famed for its bulk clothing deals and huge crowds. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.

ประตูนำ้

■ VAT: When shopping, look out for signs advertising ‘VAT Refund or Tourists’. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7 per cent on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you queue up to buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. A word of caution: if you are making large purchases and not being asked to pay VAT, you aren’t guaranteed they are quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th may 2011

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In every issue, the Bangkok 101 puts its heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok’s new breed of hotel. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique banner.

PRA-NAKORN NORN-LEN

46 Thewet Soi 1, Phranakorn, 02-628-8188; www.phranakornnornlen.com PRICE single B1,800, double B2,200 This charming little retreat has shabby chic down to an art form. Designed as an urban refuge, Pra-Nakorn Norn-Len more backpacker beat than boutique, but is wonderfully quaint and welcoming for being comparatively luxe-less. Close to the sights in the Old City, it boasts some lovely gardens, complete with two pet parrots perched freely on the ground’s trees, and rooms kitted out with hand-painted details. Dedicated to the concept of the “slow life,” the inn offers no TVs in guest rooms, no laundry service, and serves only one meal – a hearty, and quite delicious vegetarian breakfast – in order to encourage guests to patronize local businesses. While the price may seem a bit dear for what you get – rooms can seem a bit spare – the hotel offers good deals for longer stays, and the “good-for-you” concept is so convincingly and cheerfully executed that you’ll want to while away your days for longer than you’d planned.

พระนครนอนเลน เทเวศน ซ.1

LUB D (mapB4)

4 Decho Road, Surawong, 02-634-7999; www.lubd.com PRICE (until June 2011) B385 (dorm bed), B1,045 (railway twin), B1,430 (double room) Stay at this hip flashpacker hostel and you’ll find Bangrak, with its grids of charming shophouses in one direction, and the manic yet somehow magnetic Silom business and nightlife area in the other. On top of the itching-to-beexplored location, Lub D (sleep well in Thai) also makes good on its name. Up its zig-zagging steel staircases are four floors of communal or women-only dorms and twin bunk bed rooms, with personal lockers, reading lights, electric security doors – and, most importantly, clean and comfy beds – helping you sleep soundly. You can also upgrade to one of eight double rooms with queen-size beds, flat screen TVs and your own en-suite. All this comes in a funky bare metal and raw concrete building that, with its Robert Indiana-inspired Love chairs, woodchip doors, street map stencils and go-faster stripes, looks more white hot London ad agency than grungy Bangkok hostel. Add piping hot showers, a fun streetside bar-cum-lobby, free WiFi and a TV theatre room with beanbags, and the 21st century flashpacker “good life” is all yours. All apart from breakfast that is, which isn’t included. But, hey, think of that as your incentive to go out and explore each morning.

รร.หลับดี ถ.เดโช

may 2011

accommodation

www.bangkok101.com

9 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel +66 (0) 2658 7000 Fax +66 (0) 2658 7099

www.bangkok101.com

accommodation

may 2011

Health&Wellness

spas

CRYSTAL SPA (MAP E4) 1541 Sukhumvit Road | BTS Phrakanong | www.crystalspathailand. com | 02-382-2244, 02-382-445 | 10am-10pm | $$ Clamber down the steps of BTS Phrakanong station’s exit 3 and you’ve pretty much arrived at this small inner-city spa. If you’re a regular in these parts you’ll know Crystal Spa’s look well – warm-toned woods and muted silks, silk-clad staff with orchids in their tied-up hair, low-lit corridors that make you feel sleepy before you’ve even taken your shoes off. Thai massages are done in quasi-public but thick curtains guarantee some privacy, while foot massages happen in ultra-comfy upholstered armchairs. Compact treatment rooms come with little telephone-cubicle sized herbal steamers and hydrotherapy baths, good for relaxing your aching muscles pre-rub. As well as body and facial treatments, manicures and pedicures, lots of inexpensive packages are offered. Our ruling fave: the slightly kinky/painful sounding, but in fact utterly dreamy Aroma Hot Candle Massage. This excellent mid-range option also has a small garden area you can sip your warm lemongrass tea in afterwards.

Bangkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht – there’s no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations always recommended. BODY TUNE (MAP C4) 2nd Floor Yada Building, Silom Road | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-238-4377 | www.bodytune.co.th | 10am-midnight | $$ Appearances will deceive at this hidden gem of a massage institution set just a short stroll from the Skytrain steps. An unassuming glass door leads to a surprisingly welcoming reception area, the portal to the therapeutic journey you are about to undertake. Body Tune is a very clever concept; take the best of the luxury spa experience, dispense with the whale-song chakra ﬁddle-faddle, and wrap it up into a convenient, accessible package – a concept that has proven popular, since Body Tune boasts two other busy branches in Sukhumvit and Phaholyothin. With its streamlined, massage-only menu and stable of 30 therapists, you won’t ﬁnd any crystals or rose petals in this joint, yet the end result is just as refreshing. Got some knots which need a little extra attention? Drop in early when the beds are free and the therapists are revved up and ready to go. Remember to switch off those mobile phones!

บอดีท้ นู สาขาสีลม ถ.สุรยิ วงศ

คริสตัลสปา ติดกับรถไฟฟาพระโขนง

may 2011

TYPICAL SPA COST RANGE

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

SUK SPA (MAP D3) 1/30 Sukhumvit 11 (opp Ambassador Hotel) | BTS Nana | 02-651-2672, 02-651-0461 | www.sukspa.com | 12pm-10pm (can call spa at 10am for appointments) | $$$ Suk Spa wallops you with a hefty dose of cognitive dissonance – your lovely foot scrub comes with a view of the Pickled Liver pub and a VD clinic. It’s particularly jarring considering the spa’s décor – a loving homage to rapidly disappearing shop-houses and canal life, inspiring a pang of nostalgia for a Bangkok even natives can’t remember. Staff use old-school Thai names and forms of address, the jaw-dropping design offers a faux village-chief’s house (a VIP room), a Buddhist shrine, even wooden planks weaving through a “canal” – it would be Disney if it weren’t so sincere, and somehow poignant. Massages are beautifully slow, performed with a sense of samadhi – a mindfulness deeply attuned to the present. Absolutely recommended.

สุขสปา สุขมุ วิท ซ.11

health & wellness

www.bangkok101.com

L in co in at U h ev in T cl pr T

N Te Fo Op Ad

Lavana with our 40 spacious rooms and individual private shower rooms exudes contemporary elegance. Its plush graceful interiors permeates the Spa creating an atmosphere of luxury and spacious ease. Unique to Lavana are our handcrafted herbal ball made fresh in our workshop every day. Enjoy our extensive menu including Facial treatment, Aroma oil and Thai and Foot massage. To ensure impeccable cleanliness and comfort, each client is provided with freshly laundered towels. This is truly luxury at affordable prices.

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different fresh herbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body. Another exclusive treatment is the Shirodhara Indian head massage. This is an ancient theraphy performed by certified therapists. As you lie back a continuous stream of warm oil is poured on the middle of the forehead. The soothing cares of your ‘third eye’ lulls you into a deep sleep and balances the brain and calms the mind.

Breakfast at Lavana

Imagine leaving all the cares of the world behind and spending a slow leisurely morning relaxing in your own private room. Spend the hours lingering over a sumptuous American breakfast after pampering yourself with our exclusive massage treatment. Could breakfast at Lavana’s become your own secret escape? (free breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.-13.00 pm. with any oil massage treatment)

Special Promotion May 2011

FREE 2010 breakfast SPECIAL PROMOTION 1st  31st OCTOBER

and Facial Treatment at Lavana from 9.00 am. – 13.00 pm. with any oil massage treatment.

- 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm. Any oil massage. Free facial treatment - Aroma oil massage 60 min. 800 THB / 90 min. 1,000 THB / 120 min. 1,200 THB - 4 hand aroma 60 min. 1,400 THB / 90 min. 1,600 THB / 120 min. 1,800 THB - Thai Massage 60 min. 450 THB/ 90 min. 550 THB/ 120 min. 650 THB - Thai Massage with Herbal Ball 90 min. 850 THB/ 120 min. 950 THB

LAVANA BANGKOK LAVANA BANGKOK

No.4 Sukhumvit Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 No.4soi soi Sukhumvit Sukhumvit 12,12, Sukhumvit Road,Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel: 2294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com Tel:+66(0) +66(0) 222294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com For ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ขุมประมาณ วิท 12 100 ประมาณ เมตรอยู านขวามื Fortaxi: taxi: ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ขุมวิท 12 เมตรอยู100 ดานขวามื อ ตึกดใหญ สีเขียว อ ตึกใหญสีเขียว Opening 09.00 am.-00.00 am.reception (last reception 23.00 pm.) Openinghours: hours: 09.00 am.-00.00 am. (last 23.00 pm.) Advance highly recommended Advance booking booking isis highly recommended

Sports

sports MUAY THAI (THAI BOXING) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after

Muay Thai Institute

may 2011

Muay Thai

THAI BOXING VENUES Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000)

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for sports

your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. CYCLING SPICEROADS 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The eye-opening Cycling SpiceRoads daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand. www.bangkok101.com

Pitfalls lurk in every country,but business risk is obviously higher in a foreign country where the transactions are in a foreign language,the laws and customs are unfamiliar, and the western business etiquette you’re familiar with is often ineffective. The key pitfalls that foreigners stumble into here relate to signing inappropriate commercial property leases, lack of cultural integration, inadequate research and due diligence, and underestimation of the importance of personal relationships. Here are some tips to help you avoid each of them:

business 101 Philip Wylie

Part 2: Pitfalls Commercial Property Leases ■ Whenever possible draw up a contract with the real owner of the property you wish to lease, and validate the identity of your lessor. Some foreigners sign lease contracts with lessees – believing they are the property owners – and are shocked when they are evicted. ■ Research market rents in the vicinity to ensure the lease terms are equitable. If your business is tourismoriented, do not compromise on location. The term of your lease should be long enough to allow your business to repay investment capital and generate sufficient profit. ■ Negotiate acceptable terms with regard to remodeling, subleasing, responsibility for maintenance and prohibited types of business. And always, always engage the services of a reputable lawyer before signing a lease contract in Thailand. For large transactions, instruct a legal specialist of Thai commercial property law. Cultural Integration ■ Familiarise yourself with Thai culture and customs before drafting your business plan, and harmonize your business by blending Thailand’s elegance with ‘the best of the west.’ ■ Realise that business etiquette varies

across Thailand. Business models that are successful in Bangkok sometimes flounder in other parts of Thailand. ■ Avoid conflict at all costs, and never berate an employee in front of their colleagues otherwise you will lose them. Aggressive direct business salesmanship does not usually work in Thailand. ■ Be aware also that presentation matters in the Land of Smiles. Always exchange name cards at business meetings. Due Diligence & Research ■ Validate the seller’s financial statements thoroughly before you purchase a business. Do not accept the seller’s accounts on blind faith. ■ If you instruct a third party professional advisor, ensure that they are independent, impartial, and neutral. Why would anybody use a lawyer employed by his or her business broker? The business broker’s lawyer has a primary duty of care towards his or her employer rather than their client. ■ Occasionally dormant bar or restaurant businesses are transferred to naive foreigners as going concerns. In these cases, the owner usually invites the buyer to a prearranged party of his friends and family to give

the illusion of a thriving business. So, : conduct your independent appraisal of each business under consideration. And finally… ■ Be aware that relationships in Thailand are often the most valuable form of currency, so it always pays to avoid disagreements. ■ Doing business in Thailand determines the strength of your character. There are myriad temptations, kickbacks – above and below the table – and duplicitous shortcuts to get ahead. Expect illicit offers from business people of every nationality too. ■ When your business in Thailand is successful, expect people to copy your business model unless you are able to saturate your marketplace. React to instances of replication with composure rather than litigation, and take the gesture as a compliment. For detailed case studies relating to the above pitfalls, and suggestions about how to avoid them, refer to Chapter 10 in my book, How To Establish A Successful Business In Thailand.

Philip Wylie, a chartered accountant from the UK who worked as a business advisor and broker in Northern Thailand, is the author of How To Establish A Successful Business In Thailand and How To Make A Living In Paradise. Both cover the minutiae of doing business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette. Available at bookstores around town, they are published by FastTrack Publishing (www.fasttrackpublishing.com) and cost B595.

www.bangkok101.com

business

may 2011

Courses&Services

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint.

บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ์)

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 94

may 2011

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of ﬂowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful courses & services

Wat Po

Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reﬂexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทยแผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reﬂexology and shiatsu.

ชีวาศรม อินเตอรเนชันแนล อะคาเดมีโมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

www.bangkok101.com

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Community Based Tourism in Chiang Rai

f you’re heading up to Chiang Rai, the rugged far north, with its large population of diverse hilltribes, but you’re looking for a bit more from your trip than just a holiday in the hills, there are a number of operators up there offering what is known in the business as Community Based Tourism (CBT). Roughly speaking this is tourism for those who want to interact with – and learn about – the locals, not just snap pictures of them then hop back in the van. Usually such trips involve staying with a hilltribe family or in community lodgings while you enjoy hands-on activities, like trekking, fishing, handicrafts, farming and cooking, or get your teeth into some conservation or poverty alleviation project. And, even if you don’t get around to building your host village that new chicken coop you blithely promised them at the start of the week, at least your money is going to the villagers and the preservation of their communities, not a fatcat at some faceless tour company.

Here is a shortlist of respected operators in the Chiang Rai region: - Phu Phiang is part of Thai Craft, a “fair trade” organisation that helps village artisans achieve self reliance by generating income and helping preserve their indigenous craft traditions. They offer 3 day/2night tours to the traditional Akha community of Baan Huai Kee Lek and the tiny Lahu community of Baan Ja Boo See. You’ll learn about all aspects of life – from farming to religious rites – but expect particular emphasis on crafts. www.phuphiang.com - Natural Focus works with four hill-tribes – the Akha, Lahu, Lisu, and Mien – to provide ecotourist trips that help preserve their environment and culture. Four different types of tours are offered, from mountain life tours that allow you to participate in all aspects of life, to voluntourism (teaching etc), youth projects and community service (school building etc). www.naturalfocus-cbt.com - Afect offers 3 or 7 day (and night) dorm-stays in an Akha tribe village. You’re picked up from Chiang Rai and driven deep into the verdant hills to learn about their life cycle. There’s forest trekking, lectures on rice field culture, workshops on shamanism, and as much rich whisky as you can handle. All profits feed back into the community. B4,000 for three days, B6,500 for 7 days. www.akhaasia.org

www.bangkok101.com

courses & services

may 2011

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.21)

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

may 2011

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

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MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. www.bangkok101.com