Publisher’s letter Bringing you new perspectives on this city is what we’re all about. So our photofeature this month, A Look Through Bangkok, the culmination of a recent workshop that aimed to give nine Asiabased shutterbugs a new outlook on how they frame their work, appealed to us instantly. In a nutshell, they were sent out to shoot this hyper-modern cityscape using the tips they’d picked up from veteran US photographer Ralph Gibson. Head to p.48 to see some of the results, and to the Le Meridien hotel for the rest. Elsewhere in the magazine our own, never-ending exploration of the city continues with a new Route 101: a trip along the famously foul Khlong Saen Saep canal. As you’ll discover as soon as you board one of its noisy long-tail taxi boats, this manmade waterway is as much a useful means of getting around town as it is an affront to your sense of smell. Meanwhile, in Siam Still Standing we report on a subject close to our hearts, Bangkok’s architectural heritage. As well as some examples, we roundup heritage hotels and speak to some local conservation practitioners and advocates. Highlights of this month’s review list include brand new eateries like Parata Diamond and The Local as well as the hotly anticipated reincarnation of long-standing jazz and blues bar Brown Sugar. Because after living on Thai food for weeks you are likely to want to recreate the magic back home, we also bring you an hands-on review of celebrity chef Ian Kittichai’s new cooking class, which takes place at his flagship Thai restaurant Issaya. Our escapes this month see us venturing down South to Surathani province, where a trailblazing resort called the Thanyamundra is offering a one-of-a-kind wellness experience against one of the most stunning backdrops in the land, the foothills of Khao Sok National Park. As more and more travelers are doing now that the political situation appears to be improving, we also head into Myanmar and up to temple-studded Bagan. Last, but not least, we sign off with an interview with Sukhumvit nightlife legend DJ Octo, who divulges his favourite places to drink, eat out, shop, date and relax. Don’t forget that all this – plus the 101 archive and extras that didn’t make the print edition – can be found online at www.bangkok101.com.
TXT
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
M ay 2 0 1 2
´A Look through Bangkok´ by Kingley Ng
What is Bangkok 101? Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in weighty, dated guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Originally from Calgary, Canada, Scott Coates moved to Thailand in 1999 to follow a dream and start an innovative travel company, Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino.com). He’s written for publications around the world, published photography, consulted for international businesses and received international recognition for his community work in the region. Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia. Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Max Crosbie-Jones art director
Christiane Patić editorial assistant
Adul Waengmol strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Annette Heile, Scott Coates, Julia Chinnock, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Leo Devillers, Korakot Punlopruksa, Steven Pettifor, Howard Richardson, Noy Thrupkaew, Cassandra Beckford contributing photographers
Dejan Patić, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit director of sales & marketing
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
director of business development
Erika Teo
sales & marketing manager
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.
Haluethai Wattanapathomvong administrative asssistant
Peeraya Nuchkuar circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. bangkok101.com bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3
Table of COntents city pulse
food & drink
6 10 12 16 17
55 food & drink news 56 meal deals 57 restaurant reviews: parata diamond, the local, beirut 62 cooking with the master 64 brunch: chu 66 eat like nym 67 street food hotspots 68 restaurants 76 wine review: wine connection
metro beat isan in the frame siam still standing very thai: insect treats chronicle of thailand
Sightseeing 18 recommended daytrip: thai film museum 22 route 101: klong saen saeb 22 histroric homes 22 shrines 23 temples 24 museums 26 parks & zoos 29 muay thai
t r av e l 30 uover the border: bagan 32 upcountry now 34 upcountry escapes: khao sok national park 38 hotel deals
a r t s & c u lt u r e 42 exhibition highlights 44 art 1-on-1: arch wongchindawest 47 reading & screening 48 photo feature: a look through bangkok
nightlife 76 one night in bangkok 78 jazz bar review: brown sugar 80 clubs 81 hotel bars & clubs 82 bars with views 83 bars 86 live music 88 jazz clubs 90 pub review: the crossbar 91 nightlife areas
C
M
Y
CM
MY
shopping
CY
92 new collection: vickteerut 94 unique boutique: mango mojito 96 jatujak market 97 jj gem: err-or design 98 markets & sidewalks 99 market focus: ratchada night market
CMY
K
wellness 100 massage & spa 101 signature treatment: thann sanctuary
reference
bangkok 101
102 getting there 104 maps 112 my bangkok: dj octo may 2012 100 baht
A look through Bangkok | City Pulse Siam still standing | travel Bagan | Food & drink The Local | shoPPing Mango Mojito
A New perspective oN photogrAphy with rAlph gibsoN
wAs iNburee supANichvorApArch / rAlf tooteN / Atit s i ri / liNAwAti Ko / JohN McDerMot t / KiNgsley Ng / AMit MehrA / li JiNgfei / eAsoN
on the cover
may 2012
A Look through Bangkok M ay 2 0 1 2
H o t e l Pa r t n e r s
CITYPULSE
Festivals
Jazz
The Royal Ploughing Ceremony at Sanam Luang on May 9 features a series of rituals to welcome the rice-growing season. As monks chant in this ancient Brahmin ceremony, officials lead cattle to bowls of foodstuff such as water, beans and rice wine. The oxen’s choice of bowls is believed to predict the coming harvest.
The Joseph Marchione Quintet at Niu’s on Silom (02-266-5333) on May 11 sees the New York sax player joined by Dan Phillips (guitar), Sarit Tanpensuk (trumpet), ‘O’ Viriyapark (bass) and Hong Techatananan (drums). They will play original tunes and standards from by the likes of Wayne Shorter, Horace Silver and John Coltrane. Richard Shelton returns to the Living Room in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-6498353) with Simply Frank - A Night At The Copa from May 16 – 20. The show features songs from Frank Sinatra’s nights at the mobrun Copacabana Club, in New York. Various prices with and without dinner run from B1,500 net, including two standard drinks.
h owa r d Richardson
by
Cl assical The Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028) hosts the three-act Baroque opera Dido & Aeneas by Henry Purcell on May 18, 19 and 20. The singers include Saran Suebsantiwongse, Monique Kongtruadroke and Ayano Kimura in the telling of the tragic love story between Dido, the Queen of Carthage and the Trojan hero Aeneas. Israeli conductor and harpsichord soloist Shalev Ad-el leads the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Tickets are B 600 – B1,000. Young-Hyun Cho gives a piano recital at the Goethe Institut (02-287-0942) on May 18 at 8 pm, with works including Paganini’s Etude No. 3, La Campanella, Liszt’s Ballade No. 2 in B minor and Chopin’s Sonata No. 3 in B minor. Tickets are B 500. Sindri Lederer (violin), Antonia Köster (piano), Liisa Randalu (viola) and Florian Streich (cello) are the Notos Quartet, winners of the 2011 Parkhouse Award in London. They perform at the Goethe Institut (02-287-0942) on May 21 at 7 pm. Admission free. 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
C I T Y P U L S E | M E T R O B E AT
Pop & Rock
Dance & Theatre
The PR blurb says: “As the world around them unravels, unfurls and transitions toward an uncertain destiny economically, militarily, spiritually … Dream Theater refashioned a way forward …” The US metal rock band arrive in Bangkok to promote the new album A Dramatic Turn of Events, produced by guitarist John Petrucci. For a piece of this “startlingly sublime synthesis of soaring and unmistakable melody” head to the Thunder Dome, Muangthong Thani (02504-5050) on May 8. Tickets are B1,500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). If the sound of “delicious sunny pop mashed with chillwave” grabs you, check out the concert by London-based Summer Camp (Jeremy Warmsley and Elizabeth Sankey) organised by the Bangkok fashion house Sretsis and promoters Dudesweet. The band will play tracks from their debut album Welcome to Condale, with support acts including Chladni Chandi and Clammbon, at Centerpoint Studio on May 12. Tickets are B1,200 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
B-Floor Theatre continue with the dance performance Lear & His 3 Daughters, inspired by Shakespeare’s King Lear, until May 7. This is the first installment of a planned four-part, year-long series called Fright in Sight in the courtyard of the Pridi Banomyong Institute, on Sukhumvit Soi 55. There are no shows on Tuesday and Wednesday. Check with 089-167-4039; bfloortheatre@gmail.com; or www.bfloortheatre.com for details and tickets (B450). B-Floor also hold workshops on the last Sunday of every month. The experimental cabaret Perversion sees “weird and lonely characters play out their lives” with the help of audience participation. The curtain rises at 8.30pm every Saturday until June 30 at All Soul Chamber Theatre (02-721-5625). Admission is B 350. The theatre’s Teatro Italian restaurant serves meals. All Soul have acting workshops every Tuesday until September 30.
Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo
return to Bangkok with a programme including Swan Lake Act II and Raymonda’s Wedding at Royal Paragon Hall (02-610-8011) from May 10 – 13. The all-male dancers play male and female roles in 14 classical ballet excerpts in what has been dubbed “a fine line between high art and high camp”. Tickets are B1,700 – B 3,000.
Lady Gaga’s Born This Way Ball – billed as “an Electro-Metal Pop-Opera; the tale of the Beginning, the genesis of the Kingdom of Fame” – should be one of the best stage shows Bangkok has ever seen. The performer named Forbes’ Most Powerful Woman in the World 2011 will sing from her latest album Born This Way, as well as from The Fame and The Fame Monster. It’s at Rajamangala Stadium, Huamark on May 25. Tickets are B1,50 – B 7,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). If their Singapore gig is anything to go by, the Korean popsters Beast will play some 24 songs, including ‘Special’, ‘Breath’ and ‘Shock’, when they play Impact Arena (02-504-5050) as part of their world tour on May 26. There may also be solo sets from band members Junhyung and Hyunseng plus Q & A sessions with the audience. Tickets (B1,000 – B 3,500) are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
bangkok101.com
Fairs The Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (02-229-3000) shows lots of underwater stuff together with golf and holiday ideas at the double header Thailand Travel & Dive Expo 2012 and Wonderful Thailand Wonderful World 2012 from May 10 – 13. And at BITEC (02-749-3939) you can catch up with furniture and electronic appliances, plus all manner of fashion items, jewellery, wedding, health and spa products, at the modestly titled Home and Décor 2012 from May 26 – June 3.
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 7
CITYPULSE
Art & Design
Restaurant
The Jim Thompson Art Centre invited various artists to the Jim Thompson Farm between 2009 and 2011 to use eco agriculture, community customs and Northeastern architecture for inspiration, where possible using local artifacts and recycled materials. The result is Art on Farm: A Diary From the Isan Plateau showing at the Jim Thompson Art Centre (02-612-6741) until June 24. See feature on p.10.
Ma Du Zi by Yuya
The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, Siam Paragon and Crystal Design Centre are among the venues for Ideacubes, exhibiting around Bangkok until May 31. The show has artists’ visual depictions of 100 ideas by the public showing “simple things that could benefit their community, society and environment”. See www.mysocialmotion.org and www.facebook.com/mysocialmotion for more info. The Ploy Saeng 9 Festival at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC, 02-664-7667) from May 3 – June 17 is a platform for the business ideas of Thailand’s graduate students. The projects range in area from cooking to gaming, medicine to beachwear. Admission free. For more information see www.tcdc.or.th/ploy-saeng.
The campaigning Thai artist Vasan Sitthiket provides thirteen paintings and performances for his show Hypocrisy at Thavibu Gallery (02-2665454) from May 12 – June 9, in which he contemplates the “weak, fearful, selfish, and evil nature” of humanity. The Alliance Française (02-670-4222) hosts the Bangkok International Typography Symposium 2012 from May 25 – 26, including talks and workshops with top international typographers. Entry is B1,200 or B 2,500 including workshops. 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Ma Du Zi is a narrow room with a wood and marble floor that leads from the small circular bar at the entrance of this boutique hotel. It’s informally decorated, with shelves of ornaments and books that effectively divide the tables into booths and lend the air of a library. Japanese chef Yuya Okuda has worked extensively in French restaurants, both in France and Tokyo, and brings to the table what he describes as French food, although supplemented by flavours and techniques from Japan. A typical example is the signature bouillabaisse (B1,200), in which scallop, river prawn and three types of fish are cooked and served apart from the broth, which is prepared with additions of miso and the Japanese stock dashi. The result is a cleaner tasting soup, more restrained and with less earthiness than the French traditional, subdued characteristics that extended largely to the other dishes we had, apart from a foie gras so heavily smoked it masked the original flavour entirely. Other cross-cultural touches come in items like Haccho red miso marinated New Zealand lamb rack grill (B1,300), marinated for three days, so the texture of the meat has a cured quality in the spectrum of marinated salmon. The night’s standout was a chocolate mousse dome (B350) – a gleaming ganache covering three layers of mousse on a thin bed of sponge. There are thirty wines each of red and white, from B1,100 to B6,000, but just one red or white by the glass. Apart from the à la carte, Ma Du Zi has various special menus, including a three course dinner set, with a glass of wine option instead of dessert (B990); a 10-Course Degustation (B2,850); and an ‘Anti-Aging’ 5-Course Dinner (B1,800), which has dishes with taglines like “anti-viral as well as anticancer effects”. Prices include tax and service. รร.มาดูซิ กรุงเทพ สุขุมวิท ซ.16 getting there
ma du Zi by yuya [MAP 3 / H 7] Ma Du Zi Hotel | 9 / 1 Ratchadaphisek Rd 02-615-6400 | www.maduzihotel.com Mon – Sat 11:30 am – 2:30 pm; 6:30 pm – 10:30 pm bangkok101.com
There are many reasons why Central Chidlom is Thailand’s best loved department store. Customers are spoilt for choice with an array of luxury brand names from international and local fashion houses. Among the worldrenowned brands you’ll find are GUCCI, JIMMY CHOO, BURBERRY, MULBERRY, TORY BURCH, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, VERSACE COLLECTION, BALLY, PAUL SMITH, Z ZEGNA, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, HUGO BOSS, JACK SPADE, COACH and PORSCHE DESIGN. What’s more, we’re proud to carry a number of top labels that may be found in Thailand only at Central, including BOTTEGA VENETA, VIVIENNE TAM, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, ARMANI COLLEZIONI and RED VALENTINO. Central Chidlom also offers floor-after-floor of famous-maker merchandise to meet every lifestyle need, including toys, children’s wear and accessories, beauty products and lingerie, along with elegant home furnishing and oriental handicrafts to provide a world of tasteful home décor, gift and souvenir ideas. But perhaps the most compelling reason is how we treat customers with the respect, courtesy and good cheer they deserve. It’s the ʻThai wayʼ, and for over 60 years we’ve been putting smiles on customers’ faces and sending them home happier – wherever home may be.
CITYPULSE
Isan in the Frame
A group exhibition at the Jim Thompson Art Centre is showing off the fruits of the organisation’s ongoing Art on Farm project By Max Crosbie-Jones
W
hile the food and music of the Northeast, or Isan, can be found fairly easily here in the capital, the region’s art is not so well represented. Until June 24, however, the Jim Thompson House is offering you an intensely colourful dose of homegrown Isan art for free.
The origins of Art on Farm, a 19 artist-strong group exhibition being held in the tourist attraction’s Art Centre, stretch back to 2009, when this organisation, along with the Jim Thompson Farm up in Korat, invited local artists to produce Isan-inspired artworks. The brief encouraged them to work with nature, local artifacts and recycled materials, and also to observe daily life at this fully-functioning farm, where silk worms are raised and silk produced. Inspiration was also drawn from Isan’s history, myths and legends, its landscape, wittii chiwit (way of life) and food. Each year the resulting artworks have been displayed around the farm as part of the annual Jim Thompson Farm Tour. Now, for the first time, the fruits of this ongoing project – seventeen original pieces – are on display here. First up: Chulalongkorn University lecturer Rachaporn Choochuey’s colourful hanging paper-cut decorations. Inspired by mahote garlands, these hang playfully from the rain trees, lending the lush but normally sedate compound splashes of colour reminiscent of the ngan wat (temple fair). The second work that you can’t help but notice is Imhathai Suwatthanasilp’s Colors of Isan, a fabric-based installation that dominates the room’s central floor space. She recycles bits of silk yarn and cloth salvaged from workers at the 1 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
farm into sprawling floor carpets inspired by its scenery. Lining the walls around it are lots of other thought provoking works in a variety of media, from sound installation Welcome to your Voice, in which you learn about migratory patterns through recordings of local dialects; to Santiphap Inkongngam’s Mountain Wind, a short film that relates mystical folk stories in a captivatingly dreamy, magical-realist manner. More traditional media include Montree Moungkun’s lurid paintings inspired by Sunksilpchai folklore and presented as if holy scrolls, which line the rear wall. And throughout, photo diaries convey the methodology behind those installations that are either still in situ up at the farm or were too ephemeral to be displayed here. Over the past few years, this annual art experiment has been delighting visitors to the farm, especially, says its curator Khun Yawadee Srihuayyod, Isan ladies and their western spouses. But just how Bangkok audiences will react remains to be seen. Having been transplanted like rice seedlings from the countryside to the city, some of these works are likely to wilt, their pastoral themes come across as slight and parochial. That said, taken as a whole, Art on Farm does at least provide lots of clues as to why the Northeast – a parched, ricegrowing plateau plagued by economic deprivation – is one of the most fertile sources of cultural inspiration in the country. See the Jim Thompson House website (www.jimthompsonhouse.com) for the timetable of special events and educational programs that will accompany the main exhibition, including a demonstration of how to make traditional mahote garlands on May 19. bangkok101.com
C I T Y P U L S E | isan in the frame
"the northeast is one of the most fertile sources of cultural inspiration in the country"
Art on Farm: A diary from the Isan Plateau
Until June 24 The Jim Thompson Art Center
[MAP 4 / A 3]
Upstairs Jim Thompson House 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 02-612-6741 www.jimthompsonhouse.com | 9 am – 5 pm | free bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 1
CITYPULSE
SIAM STILL STANDING By Max Crosbie-Jones
W
hen it comes to preservation of older buildings here, it’s easy to jeer, point to the endless condominium developments and mirrored shopping malls and say “what preservation?” While it is the case that charismatic – if not necessarily very old – structures and neighbourhoods are still frequently flattened to make way for sleek, soulless towers, the truth is that, thanks to organisations like the Crown Property Bureau, the Fine Arts Department and Association of Siamese Architects, not to mention good oldfashioned people power, things are improving. For every Sam Yan or Sala Chalerm Thai there’s a crumbling gem that’s been saved from the bulldozer’s ball or restored to its former glory. Yes, conservation is still sporadic and piecemeal, and usually concentrated around Rattanakosin, the 5.8 km2 old city, where the buildings are older, the mosaic of old communities richer, and planning restrictions that much tighter. But a preservationist mindset does seem to be digging in. Here are our picks of some of the most notable or topical examples of Bangkok’s architectural heritage...
praya palazzo 1 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
C I T Y P U L S E | S iam still standing
na phra lan
Charoen Chai
Sam phraeng area
Na Phra Lan [MAP 7 / C 9]
Old Customs House [MAP 5 / B 4]
In late 2011, UNESCO surprised Bangkok’s conservation critics by giving an approving nod to not one but two restorations projects here. One went to the scripture hall of Wat Thepthidaram Worawihan, the other to this row of grand, King Rama V-era (1865-1910) shophouses located just across from the Grand Palace. The multi-million baht project began in 2008, with the long-term tenants contributing a quarter of the costs. Painstakingly restored, almost to the point of sterility, the yellow-painted parade is notable for its Doric and Ionic columns, accordion-style doors and stuccowork. Rumour has it that the nearby Tha Tien and Tha Chang shophouses are next in line for a facelift.
Built in the late 1900s, this shabby old dame has been in redevelopment limbo for so long we’re beginning to wonder if it’s been forgotten. Meanwhile, it stands on the edge of the river in Bangrak district, a crumbling yet evocative reminder of an era when steamships from across the world would dock here to pay import duty on their cargo. As the washing hanging from the weathered shutters and the fire engines in the driveway suggest, the mildewed Italian-style structure is currently the abode of local firemen and their families. Snoopers, however, are allowed to come and take a look.
Charoen Chai [MAP 6 / G, h 3]
Bangkok’s old stand-alone movie theatres are disappearing fast. Most do so without the blink of an eye, but when it was announced recently that this tropical Art-Deco relic from the sixties, along with its plainer older sibling, the Lido, was likely to be flattened to make way for a mall there was a minor furor. Fortunately, it now appears that the owners of the land, Chulalongkorn University, are reconsidering. In other old cinema related news, the Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project blog recently reported that probably the oldest cinema in Thailand, the forgotten wooden husk that is the Sala Chalerm Thani Theater at Nang Lerng market, may soon be refurbished by the Crown Property Bureau.
The locals believe that Chinatown’s unique withii chiwit (way of life) will be damaged irreparably if this block of around 100 rot-stained, circa 1920s shophouses just off Charoenkrung Road Soi 23 is demolished to make way for the forthcoming Wat Mangkorn Subway station. Currently the life-long tenants are engaged in a battle of non-violent resistance to stop it from happening. Part of this includes the Historic Hut, a free museum that tells the history of the area through old photos and artifacts. Go exploring afterwards and you’ll discover a living, breathing embodiment of how Sino-Thais live, eat and socialise, not to mention tasty food stalls, fortune tellers and shops specialising in religious paraphernalia.
The Scala [MAP 4 / C 5]
SAM PHRAENG [MAP 7 / G 8,9] From the striking, art deco Praeng Suppasart gate to the adorable, lived-in shophouses of Phraeng Nara and Phraeng Bhuthorn, the Sam Phraeng area is a heritage hotspot. As with most communities in the Old City the land is leased out and tightly controlled by the Crown Property Bureau. Many of the tenants run generations-old kitchens from within their shuttered, green and yellow shophouses, making this a great place to stroll around aimlessly, soaking in the early 20th century aura and snacking on old-school dishes and snacks. Points of interest include the old school on Phraeng Nara.
bangkok101.com
old CUSTOMS house M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 3
CITYPULSE
heritage hotels
Believe some buildings are irreplaceable? Show your support by staying in one
Baan Dinso [MAP 7 / H 8] This quaint late 1920’s townhouse, formerly the residence of a Thai noblemen and his family, has more charm in its original copper doorknobs than most hostels manage full-stop. Though rundown when the owner’s acquired it back in 2006, the two-storey property’s main building, with its front porch, main hall, seven bed rooms and staircase, was still in fairly good shape and retains its golden-teak walls and lacquered floors.
Baan Dinso | 113 Trok Sin, Dinso Rd Phra Nakorn district | 02-622-0560 www.baandinso.com
The Bhuthorn [MAP 7 / F 9] The architects who run this charming 3-room B&B in the old town won an award from the Association of Siamese Architects for their meticulous restoration efforts. Wherever possible they retained the century-old structures original features – wall bearings, wooden floors, metal balustrades, etc. And those they couldn’t, such as the kite tiles for the roof and floral motif floor tiles, they replaced with replicas. Smatterings of heavy antique furniture complete the heady, old-world feel. They also did an eyecatching job with The Asadang, a bigger sister B&B with a grander, Italianate-style façade nearby.
The Bhuthorn | 96-98 Phraeng Bhuthorn Rd, San Chao Phor Seua | Phra Nakorn district 08-5180-7100 | www.thebhuthorn.com; www.theasadang.com
Praya Palazzo [MAP 7 / D 2] After decades of dereliction, this former Royal Court nobleman’s mansion was recently transformed into one of the most eye-catching buildings on the river – a palatial 17-room luxury hotel accessible only by boat. It was built in 1923, a time when Italian architects like Galileo Chini and Carlo Rigoli were never short of commissions. Though not their work (original owner, customs official Praya Cholabhumi-Panit, drew up the designs himself) the 1920s Italian influence is unambiguous and remains intact.
Praya Palazzo | 757/1 Somdej Prapinklao Soi 2 Bangyeekan district | 02-883-2998 www.prayapalazzo.com 1 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
C I T Y P U L S E | S iam still standing
Three Bangkok preservationists give us their thoughts
heritage Discuss...
Chitlada Senghluang Philip Cornwel-Smith
Daniel Fraser
Architect and proprietor of award-winning heritage hotel The Bhuthorn.
Expert on popular Thai culture and author of Very Thai.
Co-founder of tour company Smiling Albino and host of hit Thai travel show Long Krung.
What do you think the state of Bangkok’s architectural heritage is?
What do you think the state of Bangkok’s architectural heritage is?
Which are your favourite old communities and why?
Compared to the past we seem to be more aware about the importance of conserving old buildings, especially as individuals and private organisations. As for the government, we have seen potential from them but they are still much more focused on promoting tourism. In my opinion, the existing conservation policies and plans we have are not very effective.
Awareness, preservation, restoration and re-use are all far better than a decade ago. A lot is still being lost, but protests and creative re-use win ever more battles. Finally, phuyai are grasping that important buildings aren’t all 100 years old nor solely high culture. Some xenophobes allege that fusion buildings aren’t Thai – an ignorant chauvinism that would exclude most palaces and monuments from heritage.
The series of cross roads between Thanon Mahachai, Bamrung Muang, and Atsadang Rd near the Grand Palace feature some fabulous old Bangkok architecture. Pop into the small alleys along Bamrung Muang and you find communities such as Chun Chom Wang Samut Amorn Phan, which is a Rama Vera fine arts dept building just sitting amist a cluster of wooden houses. Cross from there over to the old Thai-Chinese medicine shops, such as Mor Waan’s Sino-Portuguese house and you have 100 years of Bangkok’s best architecture at your fingertips.
What more needs to be done? We need more concrete government policy for conservation, so it works in practice as well as on paper. Here in Bangkok, I would like to see regulations about old buildings not being issued by the civil division of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration but by a dedicated government department that nurtures conservation nationwide and has all the information regarding specialists, funding, etc that the owners of buildings need.
bangkok101.com
Which are your favourite old communities/buildings and why? Market areas of the old town and Chinatown preserve living heritage amid mixed ethnicity; they’re not sanitised shells shorn of original residents, which is sadly what the face-obsessed prefer. Among restored areas Phra Arthit works best as it remains bohemian. What more needs to be done? Values need to shift so owners gain face and status by saving old buildings not replacing them. That requires more respect for urban heritage, ordinary people and foreign contributions. And that requires making Thai history more inclusive, overcoming taboos about Thainess, class and ethnicity (especially the Chinese), to accept that Thai heritage is diverse and hybrid.
Who are the main players driving conservation here? Happily it seems community driven. The great souls of the Charoen Chai Community for example, or the nice restoration of ‘Trok Shanghai’ behind Wat Saket, or the palatable re-commercialization of Ban Baht. These are community initiatives to restore some of the former grace and glory to Bangkok’s crumbling old heritage streets. Some of these communities sponsor art and heritage workshops to try to create some sense of closeness to their community, and appreciation for the architecture or industries that come from them. A great way to bring community, commerce, and conservation together in a meaningful way. M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 5
CITYPULSE
Photos by Philip Cornwel-Smith & John Goss
INSECT TREATS
A protein hit for farmers becomes a snack for city folk Fried chicken may come with two legs per bird, but another deep-fried Thai treat boasts up to ten smaller, but scrumptious legs: insects. For centuries a nutritious nibble for impoverished farmers from the Northeast, insects have become a staple snack among urbanites.
Very Thai River Books | with photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995 Very Thai – Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any good book shop.
1 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Bugs fall officially into two categories: malaeng (six legs with head, thorax and abdomen) or maeng (eight or ten legs, just two sections and no wings). However, most insects are simply called maeng, like maeng da, a water beetle resembling a large green cockroach. Though the appearance of insects puts off many foreigners, these alienlooking scavengers are essentially prawns of the land. Pound for pound (and it takes 30,000 termites to make a pound), bugs match the nutrition of freshwater fish and prawns. Bombay locusts are 25.88 percent protein, giant crickets pack 20.72 percent and the greatest energy of any bug: 237.26 Kcal per 100 grammes. No wonder entomologists and the National Institute of Thai Traditional Medicine champion their health value. So what do insects taste like? Mot som seem tangy like their name – sour ants. Their large soft white eggs burst on the tongue like sacs of soft cheese. Other bugs emit a gamey, pungent twang, though frying renders many quite alike to the novice. While mashing disguises their shape, frying and steaming preserves them mostly intact – mandibles, antennae and all. Those fearing disease, parasites or pesticides needn’t worry; suppliers clean them repeatedly before boiling, while white liquor neutralises the scorpion’s toxin. bangkok101.com
C I T Y P U L S E | C hronicle of thailand
13 May 1982
Communist defections gather pace Rebels weakened as amnesty offer and counter-insurgency takes its toll on CPT
Lt Gen Prayoon Boonnak claimed the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT) was in its death throes and his words proved prophetic when a week later nearly 500 insurgents surrendered in the area between Loei, Phitsanulok, and Phetchabun. Insurgency leaders said government operations had inflicted heavy casualties on the CPT and hundreds more world surrender soon. By mid-June, 3,000 people had surrendered in the north and northeast. Two months later, 7,400 Hmong hilltribe fighters marched down from the mountain in Phetchabun province to defect en masse after a long fight against the government. The military built houses in a new settlement for the Hmong. In September, one of the founding members of the CPT, Udom Srisuwan, and his wife ‘Comrade’ Maitri, surrendered to authorities in Bangkok. Udom was the highest ranking CPT member to surrender yet. He had attended the MarxistLeninist Institute in Moscow and was the only member of the Thai politburo who could speak Russian fluently. Later in the year, the government scored a huge psychological victory when nearly 5,000 insurgents and sympathisers in Mukdahan and Tak provinces defected en masse on the 40th anniversary of founding of the CPT. A veteran jungle fighter who led the surrender said they decided to give up because the government agreed to treat them with honour and dignity. The government’s successes came following a succession of directives under the Prem administration that sought to offer amnesties to rebels who laid down their arms and to tackle the insurgency from its root causes by alleviating the hardships of Thailand’s rural poor. bangkok101.com
Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450 Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 7
A waxwork of late director R.D Pestonji at the Thai Film Museum
Camera, action! exploring Thailand's movie hall of fame
By Max Crosbie-JOnes
recommended Daytrip: Thai film museum Very little remains of Thailand’s film heritage: a few rusting cans of ragged 16mm film reels, a handful of destined-to-be-demolished old cinemas, and the fond but fading memories of those who used to visit them. But the National Film Archive of Thailand, a public organisation in Nakhom Pathom province, is single-handedly preserving what remains, be it by restoring said reels of film to something resembling their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around its museum – for free.
Tours end with a short film in a dark room, which, with its creaking wooden seats and baby doll hanging in a makeshift hammock, authentically recreates a feral Bangkok cinema from the 1950s. Here your guide gives a demonstration of the narration, or sound dubbing, that accompanied most films here until the early 70s and that was often as big a crowd-puller as the films themselves.
If you’re into Thai films, just go. Seriously, you’ll love inching around this yellow painted replica of Bangkok’s old Sri Krung film studio, even if it is a pain to find. Nowhere else in the country will you find so many Thai cinema history curios – old film cameras, projectors, props, clapboards, costumes, posters and other ephemera.
94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom www.nfat.org | 02-482-2013-15 | free guided tours in Thai Sat & Sun at 10 am, 1 pm & 3pm; guided tours in English are also available but must be requested in advance
Highlights includes a waxwork figure of superstar Mitr Chaibancha dangling from a ladder, a recreation of his tragicomic death in 1967, when he fell from a helicopter while filming the last scene for masked crusader caper Insee Tong. Palmes d'Or winning auteur Apichatpong Weerasethakul also gets a reverent nod, a glass display case containing props from his slow but beguiling movies. The museum’s showpiece, though, is the space devoted to R. D. Pestonji, an Indian-Thai whose singular directorial work in the 50s, 60s and 70s made him, though not quite a household name, undoubtedly one of the pioneer’s of Thai cinema. Alongside a wax figure of him sat on his beloved 35mm camera, there is a recreation of the well-stocked bar from one of his best loved films, Rong Ram Narok, or Country Hotel.
Thai Film Museum [mAP 1 / E 5]
Getting There
Take bus number 515 from Victory Monument. The journey takes approx 40 mins to one hour. If driving, continue along Bhutthamonthon Sai 5, pass Mahidol University, then turn left at the intersection after you pass the PTT petrol station. The Thai Film Museum is about 1km down on the right hand side. หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ ใช้เส้นทางพุทธมณฑลสาย 5 ผ่านมหาวิทยาลัยมหิดลศาลายา ั ตรงไปเรื่อยๆ จนผ่านป๊มปตท.ให้ เลี้ยวซ้ายที่ 3 แยกและตรงไป ประมาณเกือบ 1 กม.จะเห็น ตึกสีเหลืองของพิพิธภัณฑ์ ทางด้านขวามือ
Sightseeing
Route 101 Klong Saen Saeb
S
tinky and filthy but also extremely handy – that’s how we would sum up good old Khlong Saen Saeb, a manmade canal that cuts West to East (or East to West, depending on which direction you’re coming from) across the city, from the Old town all the way past the central shopping districts to the Eastern suburbs.
by Annette Heile
path for 250 m – the former home of the Thai silk industry’s savior is 20 m into the lane on your left and well signposted. Peckish already? The restaurant here makes for an excellent lunch stop. Back on board and heading east you will whiz past the Sra Pathum palace [4] on your right, the residence of HRH Princess Sirindhorn, well hidden behind trees and outer palace buildings on the canal side and enclosed by Siam Paragon shopping mall on the other. The next stop is busy Pratunam pier [5], with its easy access to the central shopping district. Walk south to get to CentralWorld or explore the Pratunam area north of the canal, with its wholesale fashion malls and markets, plus Pantip Plaza, a mecca for tech geeks.
In a city once dubbed the ‘Venice of the East’ it’s surprising that there are so few waterways to remind us of the way things were. And honestly, Khlong Saen Saeb won’t change that perception, evoking little of the romance of estuaries old. What it lacks in floating markets and old ladies paddling little long-boats though, it makes up for with convenience – travelling in one of its long-tail taxi boats, a diesel engine spluttering away at the back, is a great way to beat Bangkok’s Piers get a bit more niche from here on. The one at notorious traffic. Not only is it fast, efficient and cheap (if Wireless Road (Witthayu in Thai) gives you easy access to the noisy and smelly), it’s also a great way of exploring sights you beautiful gardens of the Swissôtel Nai Lert Park hotel [6]. might otherwise have not seen or even knew existed. In the back of them sits the Tubtim Shrine, where people Start your tour at the pier beside Phan Fa Leelard bridge, where come to ask for fertility and in return offer phallic objects – the end of the old city, or Rattanakosin Island, is marked by the small and large – to the shrine’s goddess. Travel further east Mahakan Fort. Don’t hop aboard just yet, though. Before hand to Nana Nua pier, walk down Nana Road and you will find there’s a sight worth visiting, namely Wat Saket [1], a temple yourself in Bangkok’s gritty Little Arabia [7], with its heaving complex with a 80 metre high artificial hill. Climb to the top, sidewalks and eateries serving authentic kebabs, tabouleh the Golden Mount, for memorable city views and a cool breeze. and other Middle Eastern delights. And on the way back to the pier afterwards, admire the craftiAlternatively, disembark at Asok [8], and you are only a ness of Boriphat Road, with its woodwork shops selling intri10-minute-walk away from Sukhumvit Road and the upmarcately carved doors and other wooden bits and bobs. ket residential and shopping areas around it. Rather than Once aboard (see box), the first stop is Bo Bae [2], a wholesale continue – there are more stops to explore – this is a good spot market and the place to go if you are looking for undergar- to call it a day and reward yourself with a foot massage at the ments or teddy bear pyjamas by the dozen. Alternatively, get nearby Healthland spa [9] (55/5 Sukhumvit 21 Soi 1 | 02-261off at Sapan Hua Chang for a visit to the famous Jim Thomp- 1110 | www.healthlandspa.com). After a long day spent hopson House [3] and the art centre that’s part of the complex. ping on and off boats, your feet will thank you for it. Get off the boat, turn right and walk along on the canal foot2 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
sightseeing | R oute 1 0 1
"what it l acks in floating m arkets and old l adies paddling longtail boats, it m akes up for with convenience" Wat Saket [Map 7 / L 8] Bo Bae [Map 8 / F 11] Jim Thompson House [Map 4 / A3] Sra Pathum Palace [Map 4 / C, D, 3] Pratunam Pier [Map 4/ G2] Swissôtel Nai Lert Park [Map 4/ K 3] Little Arabia [Map 3 / A 4] Asok Pier [Map 3 / F 1] Healthland Spa [Map 3 / F 5]
HOW TO HOP ABOARD, SAFELY
There is a knack to using these noisy Diesel boats safely: as soon as it’s docked, grab one of the ropes tied around the side, step on to its rim and haul yourself inside carefully. Where do you pay? Once you’ve set off, a crew member in blue sweatshirt and helmet will inch around the boats rim to collect your fare (B10-20)... but not before he or she’s ducked to avoid that fast approaching bridge. Experiencing a bit of splash back? Those draw string ropes are there for a reason: to pull up the tarpaulin protective sheeting with. Boat services operate 5:30am-8:30pm daily. Be quick when getting on and off as the boats don’t stop for long. Note also that the boat might skip a stop if no passenger is waiting at the pier or indicating to get off – use the stop buttons on the ceiling if necessary. bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 2 1
Sightseeing
historic homes
Shrines
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5 / H 8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 5 pm, ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4 / G 5] Mon – Fri by appt. only | B 50 / B 20 kids Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan Throne Hall [map 8 / F 8] Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostUthong Nai Rd, opp. Dusit Zoo BTS Chit Lom loved statesmen of the 20 th century. A natural Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | B150 Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and dress politely Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowdeven served as prime minister. His peaceful Located at the tail-end of Dusit district's ed shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam and his elephant Erawan is filled with worexample of traditional Thai architecture. noen, this stately parliamentary palace was shippers lighting incense, buying lottery built during the reign of Rama V and com- บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ tickets and watching the traditional dancing pleted by Rama VI . Cast in white Carrara ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้ group, which performs for a nominal fee. marble, it is still used for the ceremonial พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V mounted on a horse that is still worshipped today. พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม ถ.อู่ทองใน ดุสิต
VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8 / F 8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd GANESHA SHRINE [map 4 / G 3] 02-281-1569 | 9:30 am – 4 pm | B100 Outside Centralworld and Isetan The world’s largest teakwood building was Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold in 1868 , and then moved to Bangkok for use elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over said to help get the creative juices flowing, three floors overlook a beautiful garden. as well as protect you from harm. Aside Inside, many of his acquisitions from interfrom marigold garlands, bring bananas, national trips are on display, including possiripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desbly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Regular serts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite. tours in English are held daily. พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสิต
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4 / A 3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 www.jimthompsonhouse.com 9 am – 5 pm | B100 / B 50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia's Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4 / G 3] country kept exactly as he left them, and Outside Centralworld and Isetan brimful with art and antiques he acquired SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP8 / K11] Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd during his many trips around Asia. Tour Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi If your love life is in the doldrums then this guides discuss these exquisite treasures BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday and the much-mythologised life of the man www.suanpakkad.com | 9 am – 4 pm | B100 it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends himself. There’s also a shop selling his trade- A former market garden that was convertfrom the heavens to answer prayers of mark designs, an art gallery and a café. Ban ed into a residence and garden by Princess the heart. To maximise your chances you Krua, the silk-weaving community he com- Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed should offer nine-red incense sticks, red Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard missioned, is also nearby. candles, red roses and fruit. pays testament to her dedication to collectบ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ing Thai artefacts and antiques. ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี 2 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
sightseeing | temples
TEMPLES
WAT PO WAT SAKET [map 7 / L 8] (reclining buddha) [map 7 / D 12] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30 am – 5:30 pm | B10 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat THE GRAND PALACE & 8am – noon; 1 pm – 9 pm | B100 on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7 / D 10] The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is steps for the views of China town to the Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. south and the Old City to the north. The hill Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 th Originating in the 16 century, it houses the is all that is left of the fortifications for a large 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | B 400 incl. entry to largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand chedi that Rama III planned to construct Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully as well as the greatest number of Buddha on the site that gave way under the weight. Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and images. Wat Po is also the centre for tradi- Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top. top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city tional Thai medicine and a learning centre sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์ for Thai massage (see p.101). crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782 , the year Bangkok was founded, and วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the "Westerner in a Thai hat" – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors. The highlight, though, is the Emerald WAT SUTHAT & Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist the GIANT SWING [map 7 / H 9] relic – and the temple purpose-built to WAT MAHATHAT [map 7 / C 8] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 9 am – 5 pm | B 20 02-221-5999 | 9 am – 5 pm | free pay their respects each day. Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concenAn amulet market is situated near this 18 th tration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแก้ว century centre of the Mahanikai monasWat Suthat is one of the most important ถ.หน้าพระลาน (ใกล้สนามหลวง) tic sect and an important university of Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. stalls are set up on the grounds to comple- The city's iconic Giant Swing, where brave ment the vendors of traditional medicines men used to swing up to great heights to and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth durare given in English. ing annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front. วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำ�รุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า
WAT ARUN [map 7 / B 13] Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd Arun Pier | 02-465-5640 www.watarun.org | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7 / K 8] Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 WAT TRAIMIT [map 6 / L 3] here. The five-towered structure is cov- 9 am – 5 pm | free 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, ered almost entirely in pieces of colourful This striking temple on the corner of Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623porcelain and designed as a representation Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road fea- 1226 | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20 of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the tures the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multi-tiered Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown gods. The temple is believed to have been castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. temple is the world’s largest solid gold named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, Climb the spiral staircase to the top for Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and but in contrast with its name, it is best vis- good views of the Old City and its many standing over three metres high, its worth temples. ited at sundown. has been estimated at over 10 million US$ . วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำ�เจ้าพระยา
bangkok101.com
วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร
The interesting Yaowarat Heritage Museum (p.27) is located on the floor beneath. วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำ�โพง (เยาวราช) M ay 2 0 1 2 | 2 3
Sightseeing
BANGKOKian museum
madame tussauds
museum of siam
Madame tussauds [map 4 / C4] Museum of Siam [map 7 / D 13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 6th F, Siam Discovery Center Museums – in town Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd 02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | free There’s a museum for every interest www.madametussauds.com/Bangkok/ A truncated history of Thailand unfurls here – hundreds in fact. Here, some of 10 am – 9 pm | B 800 / B 600 kids / through this down-with-the-kids discovery our favourites, both in town and just 15 % discount for online museum, located in a beautifully restored outside it. Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s former government building that dates back version of Europe's famous waxwork to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed delivered the conceptual design, replacing [map 8 / L 11, 12] to keep tourists and locals alike snappy hap- the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and dreary text 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng), py. About as common as international sport- with pop graphics and interactive games Ratchaprarop Rd ing legends, world leaders in sharp suits, galore. Entertaining highlights include dress02-245-3008 | www.bangkokdolls.com pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined ing up as a 20 th century nobleman, blowing Mon – Sat 8 am – 5 pm | free global pop stars here are wax likenesses up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tour- of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, a canon (a bit tasteless that one), and mapists, students and aficionados alike with sportsmen and women, famous monks, ping out the borders of your own Siam using its remarkable collection of hand-made poets and statesmen. And once you’ve fin- a touch screen. Tellingly, the place teems Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn ished talking human rights with Aung San with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagChandavimol after she completed a doll Suu Kyi, or admiring Angelina Jolie’s Khmer ers. Afterwards, enjoy the open-sided corrimaking course in Japan, it showcases collec- tattoo, there are lots of interactive games to dors and elegant Renaissance-stylings of the building itself, which was designed by Italian tions of dolls produced by a small team of stave off waxwork-fatigue too. architect Mario Tamagno. artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in มาดามทุซโซ สยามดิสคัฟเวอรี่ ชั้น 6 traditional costumes based on designs lifted พิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้แ้ห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย from museum originals, temple murals and MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT illustrations from antique books. GOODS [MAP 2 / E 12] THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7 / C 6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 26th F, Supalai Grand Tower Bldg บ้านตุ๊กตาบางกอกดอลล์ ถ.ราชปรารภ Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum.com www.tillekeandgibbins.com Wed – Sun 9 am – 4 pm | B 200 | no photo bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5 / E 3] Mon – Fri 10 am – 4 pm / App. required Previously a palace during the reign of 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, for textile and computer collections Rama V, the National Museum features Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law extensive displays of Thai artifacts from Sat & Sun 10 am – 4 pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert all of Old Siam's main historical periods, most traditional districts of the city, find their evidence of counterfeit goods into encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, educational tools for law students. To help Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. one of them lovingly converted into a pri- spread the word about the perils of buying Thai culture is well documented in sections vate museum by the compound’s charm- fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 on dance, music and drama. The first examing owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates ple of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, She decided to dedicate the place to the to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a memory of her family and bygone daily motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries black stone during the Sukhothai period, is life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to next to the originals. While its well off-the- also displayed. Free tours by the Natonal the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect beaten track location means it doesn't see Museum Volunteers group are given in breathtaking revelations here, the displays too many drop-in visitors, it's an eye-open- English, French, German and Japanese and are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. ing experience, one that would make even take place on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30 am. They include antiques, traditional house- the thriftiest market-goer think twice. hold utensils and ceremonial items. พิพิธภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก ถ.เจริญกรุง 43
2 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3
พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ท้องสนามหลวง
bangkok101.com
sightseeing | M useums
SIRIRAJ MEDICAL MUSEUM [map 7 / A 7] RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7 / K 7] Siriraj Hospital | 2 Prannok Rd out of town 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, Thonburi Railway Pier next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 02-419-7000-6363 | www.si.mahidol.ac.th www.nitasrattanakosin.com Mon – Sat 9 am – 4 pm | B 40 ANCIENT SIAM Tue – Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Located on the west bank of the river, in (MUANG BORAN) [map 1 / F 6] Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 8 pm | B100 Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious hos- 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd This multimedia museum a short walk pital, the Siriraj Medical Museum is chiefly Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 from Khao San Road offers a skillfully an educational facility where trainee medi- www.ancientcity.com abbreviated introduction to an area that B 400 / B 200 kids / B1,500 private guide many admire, but few truly understand: cal students come to take notes and harden in English for 2 hours their stomachs. However, fans of the macaRattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – bre can also pay a visit. Of its many chilling crams reproductions of over a hundred free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, displays, far and away the most famous is of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, interactive videos, text and audio clips in the crisped cadaver of Si Ouey, Thailand’s temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traThai and English – brings the area’s hard- notorious child killer, stood in a phone ditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam to-fathom history, arts, communities, archi- booth. Other stomach-churning exhibits shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive tecture and traditions into much clearer include the mummified remains of murfrom the capital. Don’t come expecting a focus. One highlight is the room showcasing der victims, and deformed human foetuses tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric Thai performing arts; another sheds light embalmed in formaldehyde. Best come culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, on the trade specialities of local shop- before lunch, just to err on the safe side. demanded that every replica look and feel house communities. Up on the fourth floor like the real thing. Teakwood, stone and there's also an observation balcony from พิพิธภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศิริราช ถ.พรานนก brick abound; everything looks authentiwhich you can peer out over the area you cally aged; and amidst the scaled-down and YAOWARAT CHINATOWN now have a more in-depth grasp of. life-size copies are lots of salvaged original [map 6 / L 3] HERITAGE CENTRE นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง buildings. Wat Traimit, 661 Mittaphap Thaiเมืองโบราณ จ.สมุทรปราการ China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd |MRT ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7 / B 4] Hua Lamphong | 02-225-9775 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1 / E 5] |Tue – Sun 8 am – 4:30 pm | B100 / B140 Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya incl. visit to the Golden Buddha 02-424-0004 | 9 am – 5:00 pm For Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese the story of Nakorn Pathom province B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some how their forefathers fled here on leaking www.nfat.org | 02-482-2013-15 of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed junk ships and rose to become an affluent Sat & Sun tours: 10 am, noon, 3 pm; on the Thonburi side of the river in a series and fully integrated force in Thai society is Mon – Fri: by appointment | Free of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. likely familiar, having been drip-fed to them The good folk at the National Film Archive The barges are best seen in action during over the years by their elders. But for the of Thailand are fighting to preserve the rare ceremonial processions on the Chao rest of us, the Chinatown Heritage Centre country’s meager film heritage, whether it Phraya where the colourful crews can num- is the next best thing, presenting an engag- be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to ber up to 64, including rowers, umbrella ing history of Bangkok’s Chinese commu- their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interholders, navigators and various musicians. nity and their bustling focal point, Yaowarat. ested around their museum – for free. Thai Beautifully and ornately decorated, these Highlights include recreations of a film fiends will love inching around this magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former leaking junk ship and bustling street market, nook-filled two-storey space modeled after glory by the present King, who also com- a miniature model of Yaowarat during its the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with missioned the newest boat for his golden Golden Age, and a room commemorating old cameras, projectors, props, costumes, the community’s high-achievers. It's located posters and waxworks. Guides only speak jubilee in 1996 . within Wat Traimit temple (p.25). Thai, so take a translator if possible. พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์
Royal Barge Museum bangkok101.com
ศูนย์ประวัติศาสตร์เยาวราช ถ.มิตรภาพไทย-จีน
พิพิธภัณฑ์ภาพยนตร์ไทย ถ.พุทธมนฑล สาย 5
yaowarat heritage centre
ANCIENT SIAM M ay 2 0 1 2 | 2 5
Sightseeing
parks – Flora LUMPINI PARK [map 8 / K,L 16] Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd 5 am – 9 pm; cycling / skating 10 am – 3 pm free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass sewn together with wide, meandering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season. There are entrances on each of its four sides, all of them open till 9pm, but the most impressive is the one at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, where a grand statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel.
bang krachao
Rama IX Royal Park
Benjasiri park [map 3 / L 7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Pong | 5am-9pm Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK [MAP 2 / K11] Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center Pravet | 02-328-1972 | 5:30am – 7 pm | B10 Bangkok's biggest park spans 200 -acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
สวนเบญจสิริ อยู่ระหว่าง สุขุมวิท ซ.22 – ซ.24 JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS [map 8 / M, N 1, 2] 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao 02-272-4358 | 5 am – 6:30 pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a botanical garden. สวนจตุจักรและสวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ถ.พหลโยธิน จตุจักร
7
บางกระเจ้า พระประแดง
2 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Suan Rod Fai PARK [map 8 / M, n 1] Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd | BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 02-537-9221 5 am – 9 pm | free Also just north of JJ Market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them. สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร 3 จตุจักร
8
9
Sarasin
6 Radio Station
Lumpini Head Office
5 Glas House
Raja
dam
ri
สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ BANG KRACHAO [map 1 / E 5] Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan | 02-461-097 6 am – 8 pm | Free It’s hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included within it is the 200 -rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for B30 . Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down to the Bang Nam Pueng Floating Market.
สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังพาราไดส์ พาร์ค) ประเวศ
Food Court
Elderly Center
k 7.56
Playground
Yaovarach Pavillon
Lumpini School
1
m
Youth Center
Aerobic Octagon Pavillon
Lumpini Park
Lanna Thai Pavillon Library
Witthayu
lumpini park
Entertainment Building Lily Pond
4 Rama VI Statue
Silom
N
Thailand China Friendship Pavillon Lumpini Youth Center
JP
Lumpini Hall Chinese Pavillon
Indoor Stadium
Ram
a IV
Bodybuilding 3
Playground Clock Tower
20o ft 100 m
2
Lumphini
bangkok101.com
sightseeing | P arks & S ports
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (Suan Sampram) [map 1 / D5] 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom Province | 03-432- 2544 www.rosegardenriverside.com 10 am – 4 pm | Garden B 50, Show B 500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf course, spa, organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens. โรสการ์เด้น ริเวอร์ไซด์ สวนสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม
DUSIT ZOO [map 8 / F 8] 71 Rama V Rd, opposite Chitralada Palace 02-281-2000 | 8 am – 6 pm | B100 / B 50 kids The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. There’s also a lake with paddle boats, and playgrounds that the kids can run wild in. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (SNAKE FARM) [map 5 / K 4] 1871 Rama IV Rd, Henri Dunant BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom | 02-25201614-120 | Mon – Fri 8:30 am – 4 pm, Sat & Sun 9:30 am – 12 pm (shows at 11am & 2:30 pm) | B 200 Mainly developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is open to the public. There’s an informative slide show followed by displays of live venom extraction.
SARANROM PARK [map 7 / E 11] Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd Phra Nakhon | 5 am – 8 pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featur- สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 ing a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion. สภากาชาดไทย สวนสราญรมย์ แยกราชินี ถ.เจริญกรุง SAMPHRAN ELEPHANT GROUND & ZOO [map 1 / D 5] Petkasem Rd km 30, Samphan parks – Fauna Nakhon Pathom Province | 02-295-2938 | www.elephantshow.com 8:30 am – 5:30 pm | B 600/ B 350 kids BANGKOK BUTTERFLY GARDEN & Apart from The Elephant Theme Show, insectarium [map 8 / M2] watch the Crocodile Wrestling Show or Suan Rot Fai Park | Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd ride on an elephant’s back through the BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park tropical gardens and waterfalls. 02- 272-4359 | Tue – Sun & Holidays ลานแสดงช้างและฟาร์มจระเข้สามพราน 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | free This dome-enclosed sanctuary not from ถ.เพชรเกษม สามพราน JJ Market houses over 500 species of butterflies fluttering freely in the mazes of the SIAM OCEAN WORLD [map 4 / D4] landscaped gardens, with their wild flowers, BI F, Siam Paragon | 991 Rama 1 Rd canopied benches, ponds and waterfalls. 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld.com Besides butterfly watching, visitors can 10 am – 7 pm | B 900 / 700 kids picnic or rent a bicycle for around B 30. It's One of Asia's biggest aquariums. If you're located within Suan Rot Fai Park, a great not put off by the dual-pricing policy (we big park with open spaces as well as lotus are, quite frankly), there’s fun to be had ponds, playgrounds, and basketball and ten- inside, with 8 m high tanks, glass tunnels to nis courts. walk through, and shark-feeding shows. อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร จตุจักร
Dusit zoo bangkok101.com
สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1
Samphran Elephant Ground
muay thai Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. Another sore point (albeit a figurative rather than literal one) that puts off some: the price to watch a fight for foreigners is five or six times what the locals pay. Lumpini boxinG Stadium Rama IV Rd | MRT Lumphini 02-251-4303; 02-252-8765 Fights Tue & Fri 6:30 pm – 10:30 pm; Sat 5 pm – 8 pm; 8:30 pm – midnight B1,000 / B1,500 / B 2,000 สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue 02-281-4205; 02-280-1684-6 Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30 pm – 11 pm, Sun 5 pm – 8 pm; 8:30 pm – midnight B1,000 / B1,500 / B 2,000 เวทีมวยราชดำ�เนิน ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน
Siam Ocean World M ay 2 0 1 2 | 2 7
BAGAN Bliss By Scott Coates Photos by Dejan Patic
YOUNG NOVICE MONKS ON PARADE in Mae Hong Son town
Over the border: Bagan Staring out across the arid plain there was scarcely a movement but for one horse-drawn cart making its way along a bumpy dirt track. Majestic stone chedis dotted the landscape almost as far as the eye could see, creating a scene so staggering it looked like something you’d see in a computer-generated film. But this was real and Bagan’s thousands of temples lay in front of me as undisturbed and quiet as they’ve been for centuries. To think I’d been in Bangkok less than a day before but was now standing atop an ancient temple taking in sunset was the closest I’ve come to modern day time travel. The name Myanmar carries a certain mystique for travelers but it’s quickly becoming accessible at a pace not seen before. April elections have spurred optimism among governments around the globe, international sanctions are being dropped and British Prime Minister David Cameron touched down in the capital Yangon just a couple hours before me, making a historic visit to this nation that finally seems to be revealing itself to the world. As the sun set on Bagan’s temples it felt as though I’d arrived just in time. Modern Myanmar can be traced to the Pagan Empire which took root in 1044 and soon thereafter saw the rapid construction of temples and stupas as Buddhism cemented its foundation as the primary religion. More than 4,000 monuments were erected here before the kingdom was either defeated by Mongol invaders or abandoned in anticipation of their arrival in 1287. Over subsequent centuries scores crumbled and a 1975 earthquake leveled many that remained. Aggressive restoration took place in the 1990s and today there are roughly 2,000 pagodas and temples standing, so many that a lot are simply named by number. As one of Myanmar’s primary tourist destinations, Bagan, which lies 700 km north of the capital, has long attracted tourists but in a nation that still has less than one million international visitors per year, almost everywhere is still well off the trodden-trail. Recent political reforms have tourism arrivals forecast to rise by 20% in the coming year, meaning now is the time to visit before the slow and sleepy pulse of this nation beats faster.
t r av e l
"At least one sunrise is a must and Dhamm ayazika is an ideal choice."
Bagan Historical Park officially covers more than 100 km2, but it’s relatively easy to visit most key sites in a couple of days. Roads are quiet, most are dirt, and horse-drawn cart ($25 US/ day) is still a practical (and fun) way to get around. Pushbikes are widely available for rent ($1 US / day) and a choice way to cover this relatively flat expanse, although quality can be suspect and sandy tracks make for tough pedaling at times. Air conditioned car ($40 US / day) is an extremely enjoyable treat, especially during the peak heat of March – April. Combine all three and you’ll get a different experience each day while varying your pace. To round-out the full transportation gambit it’s highly worthwhile to spend a sunset cruising the Irrawaddy River by private boat ($20 US / 2 hrs) with temples forming a stunning backdrop in the distance. It’s important to plan your days and sites well to avoid becoming templed-out, something that’s easy to do unless you’re a scholar and wanting to absorb every detail. At least one sunrise is a must and Dhammayazika is an ideal choice, being one of only a few temples that you can climb to the top of. At the opposite end of the spectrum, sunset is also superb 3 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
at Thamanpaya, which is just far enough away from the major temples to attract few visitors and has a huge viewing platform. Gubyaukgyi is another gem that you’re allowed to scale and provides good views of neighbouring Thatbyinnyu, Bagan’s tallest temple, and Dhammayangyi, Bagan’s largest in the distance. Breaking for a couple hours in the afternoon is a good idea to avoid peak heat and get a break from stone structures. High quality (and some not so) lacquerware is widely produced in Bagan and there are numerous worthwhile shops to peruse. Long lunches with a cool beer or fruit shake followed by a dip in your hotel pool (a must when choosing where to stay) is an ideal way to refresh before heading again out for sundown. Bagan is very much a sleepy backwater with true country folks living a slow, relaxed life and generously sharing smiles at every turn. The expanse of temples is staggering and truly one of SE Asia’s most impressive sites. Its lack of development is a rare treat and sure to change rapidly in coming years. For now at least, Bagan is bliss… bangkok101.com
travel | B agan
GETTING THERE
Air Asia have daily flights to Yangon ($100 US / way). Several Myanmar carriers make morning and afternoon flights to Bagan ($90 US / way) but awkward flight times often result in an initial evening spent in the capital. stay
Myanmar Treasure Resort ($60 US / double, myanmartreasureresorts.com) has comfy rooms and a nice pool while Aureum Palace ($250 US / double, www.aureum palacehotel.com) is the top place in town. eat
Santhidar (Main Rd, Myingabar) is situated midway between Old and New Bagan and does great Burmese food in family style. Aroma 2 (Yarkinnthar Hoel Rd, 09-2042630) serves up top-notch Indian cuisine and boasts, “You don’t like, you don’t pay.” Kaday Kywe (Main Rd, near Middle Pagoda, 061-65395) in New Bagan is very popular with locals and pretty much everything on the menu is tasty and well-priced. to do
Lacquerware: Bagan House (Jasmin Rd, New Bagan, +95 61-65133) is one of the more famous shops in town and The Lotus Collection (Kayay Rd, New Bagan, 061-65372) also produces some of the area’s finest pieces. Touring: There are many companies that offer arranged services but Grand Lotus (www.grandlotustours.com) is well established, Myanmar-owned and gets consistently good reviews.
Aureum Palace Villa
CHINA MYANMAR
Bagan LAOS
Yangon THAILAND
Andaman Sea
bangkok101.com
Bangkok
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3 1
t r av e l
Upcountry now!
May 4 Miss Tiffany’s Universe
Head down to Pattaya, May 4, to watch around 30 of the Kingdom’s best looking (i.e. most surgically chiseled) ladyboys strut their stuff at this world-famous annual beauty pageant. After swanning about the stage in ball gowns, glittering Vegas-cabaret style headdresses and skimpy bikinis, the ecstatic winner will be crowned Miss Tiffany Universe 2012. Can’t make it to Pattaya? The whole show, the proceeds of which will go to The Royal Sponsored AIDS Foundation, will also be televised live on Channel 7 from 11pm-1am. Tickets cost B1,500 – B 2,500 from www.thaiticketmajor.com. Find out more – and check out the contestants – at www.misstiffanyuniverse.com.
May 4 – 8 Top of the Gulf Regatta 2012
Now in its eighth year, the Top of the Gulf Regatta 2012 will set sail from Jomtien Beach’s Ocean Marina Yacht Club, near Pattaya. it’s the only multi-class regatta of its kind in Thailand, with keel boats, multihulls, beach catamarans, dinghies and Optimists all competing. More at www.topofthegulfregatta.com.
May 4 – 13 World Durian Festival
The equally loathed and loved ‘King of Fruits’ has its own festival, the World Durian Festival. Held each year, when the giant, pungent and spiky fruit is in season, this orgy of durian selling and feasting, which also includes an OTOP fair and fruit contests, takes place in the eastern province of Chanthaburi, which is sometimes dubbed the “fruit bowl of Thailand” due to its abundance of the stuff. Call the TAT Chanthaburi office 038-655-420 or 1672 for more.
May 6 The Columbia Trail Masters 2012
Staged in Phuket, the second edition of the Thailand trail running championship is open for all and will offer three distances: a 21km off-road half marathon, a 10km trail run and a 3km fun run for kids and others. The routes are scenic to say the least, passing the tropical island’s mountains, farmlands and greenery. The start and finish line will be at the Thanyapura Sports & Leisure Club, with its majestic views of Khao Phra Taew National Park. To register log on to www.ama-events.com.
3 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
travel | upcountry now
May 12 – 13 Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival
One of the noisiest festivals on the calendar takes place in the usually sleepy Northeastern town of Yasothon. For the Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival farmers pack giant, ornate rockets (bang fai) full of homemade explosives, drag them on elaborate traditional carts to the launch sight and then, on the third day, fire them high into the sky. Why? According to folklore, the first raindrops of the rice planting season only fall when the gods are in the mood for love. Firing missiles in their direction is said to stimulate them into action. Lots of rambunctious Isan-style merriment – comedy, fun fairs, beauty contests, morlam folk music – accompany this lofty goal. Call the TAT (1672) for more.
Until May 20 Hat Yai 5 Surprises in 5 Weeks
In an effort to boost tourism after the recent car bomb attacks in the southern town of Hat Yai, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has teamed up with the public and private sectors in Songkhla to roll out the ‘Hat Yai 5 Surprises in 5 Weeks’ campaign. What does that mean for you? Special deals and discounts ranging from 50-70% off at department stores to 10 – 30% off at hotels and 10 – 15% off food and beverages. Thai Airways is also offering a special ticket price of B 2,500 through May.
May 24 – August 31 Nikki Beach Wine Season 2012
Nikki Beach Koh Samui’s Wine Season kicks off on 24 May with a launch party and sunset barbeque on Lipa Noi Beach in the company of winemaker Hunter Smith, from Frankland Estates, Australia. Expect an unpretentious yet sophisticated evening of wine pairings, open-air food and indulgent beachside fun, with seven guest wines, an Aussie-style ‘Wine Hunt’, Australian-themed didgeridoo and percussion, plus a knock-out ‘Big BBQ.’ During the season, which runs until the end of August, the beach club will also be showcasing vino from a different country and guest vineyard each month, and pairing it with à la carte food menus. Visit www.nikkibeachthailand.com for more details.
bangkok101.com
May 30 – June 4 Samui Regatta 2012
More sailing, this time down in Samui. The 11th Samui International Regatta will feature six sailing classes and a slew of related lifestyle activities. Watch the sailing action from the comfort of a spectator boat – and then party the evening away at one of many related regatta events taking place, including live jazz. Race entry forms, ticket details and an event schedule are all at www.samuiregatta.com. M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3 3
t r av e l
gem in the rough Max Crosbie-Jones checks out the Thanyamundra, an intimate wellness retreat overlooking otherworldly Khao Sok National Park
A
mong Thailand’s legions of hikers and outdoorsy the charms of Surathani’s Khao Sok National Park, the remnants of one of the world’s oldest rainforests, are common knowledge. What isn’t quite so well known is that the edge of the park is now home to one of the most breathtakingly idyllic resorts in the country, the Thanyamundra. I stayed recently and found its charms to be both five-star and double pronged. Like the more modest accommodation offerings that came before it, the resort backs onto the narrow, flora-lined road that leads to Khao Sok’s main entrance and park HQ. Ten minutes after walking out of the resort, you can be out there, trekking along paths that cut through wild, fecund rainforest in search of waterfalls, rare plants such as the Rafflesia – a pungent beauty that looks like an alien pod – and critters of all shapes and sizes. All this in the shadow of the limestone karsts that loom large across the region. Proximity to one of the Kingdom’s most spellbinding and species-rich ecosystems aside, the Thanyamundra also offers something that all other accommodation in the area can’t – a truly serene and sequestered wellness experience. Built and
3 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
owned by a successful Phuket-based German businessman, ery, especially in the mornings. Even in the rapidly intensifythe Thanyamundra was originally intended to be his and his ing heat of late March, when we stayed, a dawn mist swirled family’s weekend retreat. However, while he does stay here in the jungle valley below, its vapour-like tendrils creeping on occasion, those plans were shelved in favour of a one-of- slowly past the surrounding mountains. It lingered until late a-kind luxury retreat that serves up a mind-clearing diet of morning, as did the cries of lar gibbons and whining birds in the rainforest below. organic food and holistic activities against a "Even in the mountain backdrop. Almost as memorable was the food. On the heat of l ate The very ‘zen’ Thanyamundra experience m arch, a dawn aforementioned buggy ride, it’s hard to miss the resort’s very own organic farm: 65 sprawlbegins the moment you drive through the gates. mist swirled ing rais of chicken pens, fruit trees and neatly You’re whisked via white golf buggy through in the valley rowed vegetable gardens. Since its director, the resort’s neat landscaped grounds. Then, it’s below and into one of the two Thai-style golden teak villas lingered until Frenchman Pierre Larigaldie, began coaxing to receive a foot-cleaning welcome ritual from l ate morning" the earth here four years ago, all plantings in it have apparently been 100% organic, a your almost embarrassingly courteous butler. After slipping into a pair of slippers, you’re then shown to your visionary practice that has earnt Thanyamundra the accospacious guest room or master suite, each one done out with lade of being home to Southern Thailand’s only certified organic farm. Roughly 80% of its chemical-free produce – which fine Tibetan and Thai antiques, and left to your own devices. ranges from rocket, Thai and Italian basil, dill, coriander and Which was fine by me... In-room amenities here include LCD chilies to white and purple eggplants, red snake beans and TVs and complimentary (and decent) wireless internet; fafruits such as avocado, rambutan, papaya and durian – goes cilities a decent gym and a stunning 50 metre lap pool; but down to Phuket, where it is sold on or used at the owner’s without doubt the highlight is the as-green-as-it-gets scenbangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3 5
t r av e l Don't miss … other properties. But the rest ends up on your table in the form of colourful, fresh from the garden dishes such as spicy As alluring as the Thanyamundra is, it would be a shame to wing bean salad with boiled egg and grilled chicken with cocome to Khao Sok and not also experience Cheow Larn Lake. conut sauce, as well as exotic juices, smoothies and jams Accessible via a pier located roughly 60 km east of the resort It didn’t happen to me, but should you somehow tire of gorg- and the park HQ, this vast reservoir is home to some of the most ing, chilling out with a good book, or watching butterflies of spectacular ‘karst’ scenery in the world. Due to its topographikaleidoscopic hues flutter past, there are also activities. Cook- cal similarities – hundreds of towering limestone cliffs that ing classes are held in the main villa’s gleaming show kitch- spring from the water – some even liken it to China’s Guilin. en (you’re encouraged to venture down to farm to pluck your Admittedly, some of its magic rubs off when you learn about own ingredients). And yoga and meditation retreats staged its dark past: that this beguiling waterscape in its current here intermittently; the last back in January featured leading form was only created back in 1982, when the government Ashtanga guru Kim Roberts. flooded the area to create a hydroelectric dam (and, some More adventurous sorts can leave the resort’s cosseting say, clear out commie rebels hiding in the hills), so displacing confines to go river kayaking, tubing or on guided jungle treks local villages and precious wildlife. But, given the aura and with resident and visiting naturalists. Soon, even the hum- Wagnerian drama of the place, it has to be said, not much. ble stroll through the forest will be ‘unique’ – during our stay To get to there from the resort, take route 401 east to Ban Ta Thom Henley, an internationally known environmentalist Khun village and from there drive north. On reaching the who wrote one of the few books on the park, ‘Waterfalls & Gibpier you can charter long-tail boat that can hold between bon Calls – Exploring Khao Sok National Park’, was in the vicin8 – 10 people to glide you deep into this otherworldly landity creating a nature trail map that will be given to guests. scape. A boat ride costs B 800 for a couple of hours and usually includes a stop off beside sam luk, a trio of rocks that shield
"the lush limestone peaks take on a different character as the day wears on"
clockwise from top: Thanyapura's on-site organic farm; the public lounge area in one of it's teak pavilions; the resort's olympic sized infinity pool. 3 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
travel | K hao S ok N ational P ark
a long-tail boat driver navigates khao Sok's artificially swollen cheow larn lake
GETTING THERE a quaint natural bay that’s good for swimming. Many come just for the day, but the experience is all the more rewarding Khao Sok National Park is an approximately two hour drive if you stay overnight in one of the floating rafthouses that dot from Phuket or Krabi town. Award-winning budget airline the reservoir (in which case a driver will charge you B 1,500 Air Asia flies to both destinations: Phuket nine times a day, and drive you back in the morning). Krabi four times a day. See www.airasia.com .
There is not much to do except laze in a hammock on your bamboo cabana, dive into the cool milky pristine waters, canoe, read a book, or capture the scenery for posterity. The lush limestone peaks seems to take on a different character as the day wears on, from mist-veiled apparitions in the morning, to brilliant green gems against a pure blue sky, to black silhouettes revealed only by the light of the moon. At dawn the jungle’s primeval din serves as an alarm clock minus a snooze button.
stay
Thanyamundra Organic Resort
102 Moo 6, Klong Sok Sub-district, Surat Thani 076-336-000 | www.thanyamundra.com Deluxe Suites B 9,500; Superior Suites B 14,000; Executive Suites B 22,500 (rates for two persons, breakfast included, valid until June 2012)
After some discussion (we hadn’t booked in advance) we Praiwan Raft House docked at Praiwan, a v-shaped raft house in a quiet cove Cheow Larn Lake | 081-091-7765; 085-792-8758 in the reservoir’s far northern reaches, and weren’t disap- B 800 (including meals) pointed. For B 800 a night, you get a bamboo cabana for two, three huge meals a day, and a friendly welcome. Yoga retreats are also held here by the well established Jungle Yoga (www.jungleyoga.com). If Thanyapura offers the pricey five-star wellness experience, this is the more affordable, back-to-nature equivalent. bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3 7
t r av e l
Hotel Deals
Until 15 July Special opening rates
Until Oct Introductory Rates
Until Oct Bliss package
InterContinental Samui Taling Ngam Beach, Samui 077-429 100 www.intercontinental.com/samui
Novotel Phuket Vintage Park 89 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pee Rd, Patong Beach, Phuket 076-380-555 | www.novotel.com
The Dewa Koh Chang Klong Prao Beach, Koh Chang 039-537 339 www.thedewakohchang.com
The InterContinental recently rebranded and overhauled the former Le Meridien on Samui’s secluded Taling Ngam beach. After ten months of renovation, it re-opened in February with seven swimming pools, a private beach and a 150 m long private pier (offering speedboat transfers to and from Samui airport). Once Samui’s first and now it’s latest luxury resort, the villas and rooms are available at special introductory rates that start from B 6,500++.
The Novotel’s 11th hotel in Thailand, the Novotel Phuket Vintage Park is a new resort right in the heart of Phuket’s busy Patong Beach, just three minutes walk from the water. As well as 303 spacious modern rooms, its selling points include a 2,000 m² swimming pool, restaurants and a big fitness centre. Try all these facilities and more with its special introductory rate of only B 2,750++ per night for a superior room. It includes breakfast for two.
Need to get away from it all but no time to organize anything? The Bliss package (from B11,000) might be what you are looking for: 3 days and 2 nights full of activities at Koh Chang’s The Dewa resort. Included is a full-day snorkeling trip or a 60-minute aroma massage for two, two hours of kayaking, and transfers to both the Klong Pu waterfalls and White Sand beach. It also includes two dinners, one lunch and accommodation for two in a deluxe room.
Until Oct Mahout package
Throughout 2012 Life’s a beach package
Throughout 2012 HRP10 anniversary
Away Suansawan Chiang Mai Mae Rim-Samoeng Rd, Mae Ram, Chiang Mai | 02-101 1234-1 www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Various Oceanside Centara Hotels & Resorts 02-101 1234 ext.1 | www. centarahotelsresorts.com/ package/LifeBeach.asp
Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya Pattaya Beach Rd 038-428 755-9 www.pattaya.hardrockhotels.net
Get up close and personal with Thai land’s most emblematic animal, the elephant, with the Mahout package from the Away Suansawan Chiang Mai. You’ll spend one day shadowing a bona fide mahout, guiding and riding your new pachyderm friend. The package (from B10,750 for two) includes accommodation, buffet breakfast and a welcome dinner at the resort, which is located in the scenic Mae Rim Valley and a member of Centara’s Boutique Collection.
3 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Centara is offering a choice of five ocean-side resorts for their three and five day ‘Life’s a beach’ packages. Buffet breakfast, a 60-minute massage or spa treatment for two, plus airport transfers are included. The family-friendly offer also allows up to two kids under 12 to share their parents room. Prices start from B 8,070++ at the Centara Chaan Talay Trat, or B25,800++ at the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket.
Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya is celebrating its 10 th anniversary and the completion of a major makeover with special re-launch rates that run throughout 2012. The package prices include buffet breakfast, unlimited internet and movies and a limited edition anniver sary T-shirt. Rates start at B 4,119 for a Deluxe City View room; and B6,590 for the family-friendly 64 m² Kids’ Suites equipped with a king size bed plus 2 bunk beds and lots of toys.
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 3 9
Face, Faith, FakE Jakapan Thanateeranon at WTF
Arts & Culture It’s another strong month for group exhibitions that shine the spotlight on Thai talent. Commercial gallery Sombat Permpoon, on Sukhumvit Soi 1, is hanging nude paintings by eminent local artists; and V64 art studio in the northern suburbs is presenting a roundup of work by contestants from reality TV show Art Tree. Meanwhile, the Jim Thompson Art Centre, which is located upstairs within the Jim Thompson House compound, is showcasing the multi-coloured fruits of Art on Farm, a group art project at its very own farm up in the Northeast’s Korat province (see City Pulse, p.10 for more). Until the end of this month, the results of Ideacubes, a participatory public art project with a social mission, will be brightening up malls and department stores across the city. See p.44 for our interview with its co-founder Arch Wongchindawest and www.mysocialmotion.org for the concept and location list. There’s also a free iPhone app entitled ‘Ideacubes’ available. Finally, those looking to get involved in a public art project should get in touch with the team behind Inside Out Bangkok. Part of a global art project “transforming messages of personal identity into works of art”, it will entail having a large black and white poster of yourself pasted in a public location along with an inspiring caption. The deadline for photo submissions is May 15; see Facebook: Inside Out Bangkok or email the organisers at insideoutbangkok@gmail.com for more.
ARTS & C u lt u r e
exhibition highlights Pictures RMA Institute [map 3 / L 9] 238 Soi Sainamthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22 02-663-0809 | www.rmainstitute.net 11 am – 7 pm Until May 6
For his debut Thailand exhibition, British photographer Ti Foster presents large-scale colour landscape prints. Having exhibited extensively in Europe, Foster’s seductive photographs evoke nature’s majesty, with viewers often mistaking his lens works for paintings.
Face, Faith, Fake WTF Gallery & Café [map 3 / Q 6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-662-6246 www.wtfbangkok.com | Wed – Sun 3 – 10 pm Until May 18
After an exhibition at Artery last month, Jakapan Thanateeranon’s returns with a sculptural installation of ceramic human masks that look at virtual communication and changes in social interaction. Six years in the making, the 120 individually painted heads reflect the blurring of truth and deceit through digital forums, and how social networks are being used to create communities and cause divisions.
Convergence Chulalongkorn Art Centre [map 4 / D 8] Centre of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Siam 02218-2965 | www.car.chula.ac.th/art Mon – Fri 9 am – 7 pm; Sat 9 am – 4 pm Until May 26
Against the backdrop of globalisation which has propelled Asia’s economic and cultural ascendency, artist Wei Leng Tay uses still-life, portraiture photography and audio interviews to examine the shifting dynamics of migration, identity and community among Singapore and Malaysia’s ethnic Chinese demographic.
4 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
A R T s & culture | E x hibitions
Enjoy these highlights from our sister publication the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free city map containing insights into Thailand's blossoming art scene. www.bangkokartmap.com
Human Beings V64 Art Studio [map 2 / F 4] 143/19 Changwattana Soi1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen Laksi 089-143-0986 | www.v64artstudio.com | 9 am – 6 pm May 6 – 30
An American Idol for budding artists, 'Art Tree' is a Thai reality TV programme designed to stimulate a stream of consciousness concerning art in Thailand by asking its audience to consider what art is and how we evaluate it. This group exhibition made up of paintings, graphic art, mixed media and installations is a showcase of 16 of the participating contestants’ work.
Before Birth After Death Numthong Gallery [map 8 / L 6] 72/3 Ari Soi 5, Phahon Yothin Rd | BTS Ari | 081-918-5067 www.numthonggallery.com | Mon – Sat 11 am – 6 pm Until May 31
Nude Sombat Permpoon Gallery [MAP 3 / A 6] 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Ploenchit | 02-254-6040 www.sombatpermpoongallery.com | 9 am – 8 pm Until June 30
One of the few spaces to successfully maintain a presence over the last 15 years, Numthong Gallery recently closed its original site in a converted pokey apartment in an old Co-op building, to open a new purposely built space in the burgeoning Ari district of the city. The new gallery’s inaugural exhibition is a continuation of the Chiang-Mai based artist Kamin Lertchaiprasert’s Buddhist related themes. Previously manifested through different forms and mediums such as sound installation, multimedia works and even his 31st Century Museum in Chiang Mai, the recurrent thread in Kamin’s work is the cycle of life. Unfurling like a visual diary, on this occasion he sticks with painting and sculpture as he focuses on the small incidental details of everyday existence.
The five storey commercial gallery presents nude paintings by a cross-section of renowned Thai artists, including Vasan Sitthiket, Vira Jothapraser, Warawoot Shusaengthong, Rongnaron Thanomtup, Prayat Pongdam, Suchart Vajanadilok, Somkiet Panasirisil. bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 4 3
ARTS & C u lt u r e
ART 1-0n-1 by Steven Pettifor
Arch
Wongchindawest on IDEACUBES
Cubism is back with a vengeance this month – sort of. Until May 31, 100 ideas for a better world will be conveyed within 1m3 wooden cubes scattered around the city, each one styled by a local artist. The ideas weren’t just plucked out of thin air, but were submitted by the public, who were asked to suggest “simple things that could benefit their community, society and environment”. We spoke to Ideacubes’ director to find out why he wants us to think in the box, not out of it. See www.mysocialmotion.org and www.facebook.com/mysocialmotion for the full location list.
Tell us about the Ideacubes project. How did you come up with the idea for it? The original idea sparked during a dinner conversation between Alice, the co-founder of the MySocialMotion organisation, and I. Our first inspiration was a treasure hunt in Germany that had people walk around looking for clues in different parts of the city. The intention of MySocialMotion is to tie in fun and exciting experiences with social and environmental concepts to create interesting projects. Our second source of inspiration was the Magic Eyes (Tah-wi-sed) campaign that I’m sure most Thais know. It demonstrated to us how simple actions (like not littering) can make a difference. Arch
Are there any famous artists taking part? I guess this was one of the things that exceeded our expectations. Artists were very excited to join Ideacubes and most of them were invited by other artists who had joined. Participating artists who volunteered include Preecha Thaotong (National Artist 2009), M. L. Chiratorn Chirapravati, Pip Ravit Terdwongse, Kongpat Sakdapitak and Natrika Thampridanant, among many, many others. How did you get the participating artists to agree to take part? We told them about the vision that we want to create: the World’s first city-wide ideas exhibition, a project with a potential to spread globally and that hopes to inspire the general public to do a little more. I think having strong partners (such as UNESCO, Silpakorn, Tourism Authority of Thailand) has also helped, but mostly I believe that the artists believed what they did here can actually make a difference.
How did the selection process work? We collected ideas from the general public at various events as well as on our website www.mysocialmotion.org. We selected 150 ideas from the around 1,500 submissions and then gave the list to our 100 volunteer artists so they could select their favourite. Other than submissions from the general public, we also received ideas "We hope from 35 celebrities and public icons, such as Ideacubes will Chompoo, Woody, Palmy, etc. You can see these remind people videos at www.youtube.com/mysocialmotion.
that sm all actions can m ake a difference."
What were your favourite ideas? My favourites were the simpler ideas like “Share your umbrella when it rains”, “Forgive someone”, and “Don’t kill animals – even insects”. I think these are things that people can do every day and even though some may not easy to identify or measure the impact, it creates and spreads happiness and compassion.
Where will we be able to find the cubes? You can find the Ideacubes in around 20 places around Bangkok. Our major supporters are department stores, such as Central, Paragon, and Siam. We’ve tried to bring the exhibition to the people, so that they will encounter Ideacubes when they go to work, to eat, to meet with their friends. The best way to track them down will be through our ‘Ideacubes’ iPhone application, which is free. 4 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
What are you hoping members of the public will gain from each ‘ideacube’? We hope the Ideacubes help to remind people that small actions can also make a difference, and that by seeing the Ideacubes people would be reminded about some actions they can take that day. The ultimate goal is to get people to take action. Our target is to trigger 10 million actions between 2012 and 2013.
What will happen to the cubes when the exhibition finishes? Most of the Ideacubes will be auctioned to raise funds for other projects. MySocialMotion is currently preparing to launch our next project, but we can’t tell you what it is just yet. Our plan is to launch two new projects every year, each one designed to make it easier and more fun for you to do good things every day.
bangkok101.com
IDEACUBES Until May 31
City-wide www.mysocialmotion.org facebook: mysocialmotion free
ARTS & C u lt u r e
AKSRA THEATRE
National Theatre
SALA CHALERMKRUNG [map 7 / H 12] 66 Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-8148 www.salachalermkrung.com | B 800 – 1200 A former cinema from the 1930s is one Our performing arts scene may not throb of the few places in Bangkok where like in other cities, but look under the traditional Thai masked dance, or khon, surface and you’ll find it there, beating is shown on a regular basis. More than 60 to its own rhythm. For more information try www.thaiticketmaster.com or our own dancers in elaborate costumes perform episodes from the Ramakien, the Thai website www.bangkok101.com . version of the Indian Ramayana epic, on Thursday and Friday evenings from AKSRA THEATRE [Map 8 / K 10] 7:30 pm. On other nights, the Sala 3rd F, King Power Complex Chalermkrung theatre hosts peformances 8 / 1 Rang Nam, Phaya Thai Rd ranging from Thai pop to Elvis Presley tribBTS Victory Monument ute nights. For more information check their 02-677-8888-5602 website or book with ThaiTicketmaster Tue – Fri 7 pm; Sat & Sun 1 pm and 7 pm Tucked away in the sleek white bowels (www.thaiticketmaster.com). of Soi Rangnam's King Power Duty Free complex, this 600 -capacity theatre lined SIAM NIRAMIT [map 8 / R 9] with fabled wood carvings is the place to 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd come to enjoy hypnotic performances by MRT Thai Cultural Centre (then shuttle) the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, A breathtaking, record-breaking extravagiven life by puppeteers swathed in black, ganza, hailed as ‘a showcase of Thailand’. act out Thai literary epics. Family enter- Using hundreds of costumes and amazing tainment of the most refined kind, this has special effects, more than 150 performbeen one of the few places where you can ers journey whirlwind-like through seven catch Thai puppetry since the much loved centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 Joe Louis Puppet Theatre was demolished. guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ fantasia to others. คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ� สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร
Theatres
NATIONAL THEATRE [map 7 / D 5] 2 Rachini Rd, (Northern end of Sanam Luang) | 02-224-1342 Mon – Fri 9 am – 4 pm | B 60 / 80 / 100 Along with the National Museum, this imposing theatre forms an island of high culture and is held in high esteem by those who care about classical Thai performing arts. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are intermittently staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May. On the last Friday of each month at 5pm there are performances of khon (classical Thai masked dance). โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง 4 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Cultural Centres Bangkok’s cultural centres bring in topnotch exhibitions and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more …
BACC – BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE [map 4 / B 4] 939 Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium 02-214-6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th Tue – Sun 10 am – 9 pm Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is an
BACC
important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design. The upper levels boast 3,000sqm of exhibition space. หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน TCDC – THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE [map 3 / M 7] 6th F, The Emporium Shopping Complex Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-664-8448 | www.tcdc.or.th Tue – Sun 10:30 am – 9 pm This very slick design learning and resource facility aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?”, a look at how 10 countries used their uniqueness for creative ends, or a peek at the state-of-the-art library featuring over 16,000 rare books and a textile centre. ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24 ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE [map 5 / K 7] 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng 02-670-4200 | www.alliancefrancaise.or.th Mon – Sat 10 am – 6 pm สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ.สาทรใต้ GOETHE INSTITUT [map 8 / L 17] 18 / 1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 MRT Lumpini | 02-287-0942 / 4 www.goethe.de | 8 am – 6 pm สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18 / 1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1 JAPAN FOUNDATION [map 3 / F 4] 10 th F, Sermmit Tower | 159 Asok Montri (Sukhumvit Soi 21), Soi 1 | BTS Asok 02-260-8560-4 | www.jfbkk.or.th Mon – Fri 9 am – 7 pm, Sat 9 am – 5pm เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21
bangkok101.com
A R T S & C ulture | reading & screening
cool! bangkok
Greg Lowe | Marshall Cavendish Editions | 216pp | B520 Whether Cool! Bangkok really is the “essential guide to what’s hip and happening” is up for debate (one could argue that live, publicly authored apps like Foursquare are much more ‘happening’ than printed guide books). What isn’t is that it’s title don’t lie. British author Greg Lowe has penned capsule reviews of over 130 clubs, bars, restaurants and hotels that stand out for their individualism. A few Thai chains and 'inter' brands made the grade – fashion houses Greyhound and Kloset among them – but the vast majority are standalone businesses that don’t take orders from anyone other than the free spirits that run them. Exuberant headlines and crude yet enticing snaps lend a raw, almost scrapbook feel to proceedings. And throughout the hip quotient remains dauntingly high. Cool, us? You’d better believe it.
FAMULOUS EATERIES
Cranky Little Monster | B 395 A neat idea – insider’s restaurant guide meets pocket-sized pack of cards. On each of these 52 cards is a description of a ‘famulous’ (famous and fabulous, get it?) food joint, as well as the address, a map and the all important ‘Taxi Thai’. Clearly they’ve done their homework – but the selection itself is the clincher. From B9 bowls of boat noodles on Ratchathewi to suburban gems like Ladphrao’s Pathe, everyone will find something new to get their teeth into here. There are some obvious flaws of course: drop your cards on the street and you’ll be fishing around in the gutter. But also some practical uses and fun card-game potential too. You could pop a few in your wallet, say, for those moments when you’re flailing in Bangkok’s vast culinary ocean; or, even better, leave it in the lap of the Thai food Gods and deal them out to your friends.
THAI FORESTRY: A CRITICAL HISTORY
Ann Danaiya Usher Silkworm Books | 238 pp | B 625 Not as wooden as it sounds, this outspoken book traces the century-old tension between those who manage Thailand’s forests and those who live in them. A former writer at The Nation newspaper recounts the watershed moments when imported forest management theories, often imposed without concern for local conditions, were challenged by the public. She also picks holes in the ideas themselves (including one which sought to break the bond communities had with forests – scary when you consider the number of forest-dependent minority groups here). Intelligently argued and often riveting, it's a controversial read, one that should be read by, not just your average tree-hugger, but anyone interested in Thailand’s ecological well-being.
reading
& screening Khaw Hai Rak Jong Jaroen (Me… Myself)
Pongpat Wachirabunjong | 2007 | B100 | Rose Film
bangkok101.com
Gay angst meets Thai soap opera boy-meets-girl tale in this confident, cross-dressing directorial debut. Lao-Aussie hunk Ananada Everingham stars as Tan, an amnesiac car crash victim who’s taken in by the surly young female driver, played by newcomer Chayanan Manomaisantiphap. Tan quickly ingratiates himself (by rearranging her apartment while strutting around – without any hint of irony – in a Hello Kitty apron) and soon the pair are lovers. Meanwhile, flashbacks flit before Tan… who is this woman in his dreams: A girlfriend? His mother? Or, erm, him? The last 30 minutes – when the picture descends into a mushy, moist-eyed meditation – drag, but the film’s memory-loss conceit does elicit interesting nature-nurture questions about sexual orientation. Everingham fans, too, have yet another sensitive performance to treasure, including one scene in particular where the ubiquitous pan-Asian star poses naked like Rodin's Thinker. M ay 2 0 1 2 | 4 7
Kingley Ng
A New perspective on photography with ralph gibson
The photos before you are taken from an exhibition of work by nine gifted photographers. Hanging until the end of this month in the dark, ultra-chic confines of the Le Méridien Bangkok hotel, on Surawong Road, A Look through Bangkok is the culmination of a threeday workshop back in March led by veteran American art photographer Ralph Gibson. Shot mainly with a Leica, his work is known for its erotic and mysterious undertones, and the participating photographers were
given the chance to learn the techniques that lend it this quality, all while using Bangkok as their subject. Ranging from street to architecture, portraiture and night photography, the results are eclectic and inspiringly iconoclastic. We spoke to Ralph Gibson to find out more about the workshop, which is part of ‘A New Perspective’, the hotel’s ongoing event series uniting established artists from their own global creative community, LM10 0, with local talent.
Ralf Tooten
Linawati Ko
Eason
Amit Mehra
A Look Through Bangkok Until May 31 Le Méridien Bangkok [Map 5 / H 4] 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232 8888 www.starwoodhotels.com
RALPH GIBSON Interview by Steven Pettifor
Ralph Gibson
Q How and why were these nine particular photographers selected? A I have been doing a couple of workshops a year for last 30 to 40 years and I’ve been all over the world in this capacity, but I was astonished by the quality of the photographers who showed up. They had been published and had an average of 15 – 20 years experience under their belts, and the ones who didn’t were young and very gifted. These were passionate professionals whom I could address on a very equal footing. Q What does the workshop actually comprise? A We didn’t talk about technique at all, we talked purely about aesthetics, you know for me photography is not a question of how to photograph, it’s a question of what to photograph. Then in what context are we going to interpret the photograph. Many photographers work digitally these days so we are able to print works out and instantly analyse, study and search the meaning of what they produce and discuss it as a group. When I do a workshop I start by asking three questions: Where are you as a photographer? Where would you like to be? What do you think is standing in your way? They leave with a new portfolio that is a couple of notches up, it’s just the nature of the experience. I gather all the forces within, I tell them things that perhaps previously had not occurred to them, and as a result of this I get emails six months after saying stuff has bubbled to the surface. We’re only as good as our next picture and we’re all in the same boat, it’s just that I’ve been in the boat a lot longer.
" for me photography is not a question of how to photograph, it' s a question of what to photograph"
Q What do you get from these workshops? A I force myself to live up to my words. I don’t like teaching, I don’t want to be the expert, I want to be the guy on his knees in front of his muse. I realise I am good enough to know how good I really could be, and patting yourself on the back as a teacher is not the way to get there. The workshop has given me the incentive to start a new project and I will be finding ways to get back here. Q What has captivated or surprised you most when out there photographing the city? A This is my second visit to Bangkok. You have to understand that culture is a language of signs, a semiology, and there I many signs here that I don’t understand so I look at them purely in terms of their essential and intrinsic shapes, and within that I find a visual meaning that might be even more interesting than if I knew what I was looking at. I love being in places where I am in over my head, just drifting alone with my camera with a personal point of departure based upon searching for the signs of the culture. Bangkok is not as pretty as a city like Rome, but it’s infinitely more interesting, alive, and positively erotic. Q You mainly use a Leica camera, what is it in particular about the camera that appeals to you? A I have my own signature model that I have modified, it is the perfect instrument and will always be better than I am, it is capable of doing things that I haven’t discovered yet. Manipulating the camera is like handling a Stradivarius, your fingers have to be warm all the time with a Leica.
YUM TA-KRAI Lemongrass Salad at The Local
PHET
maak
* so spicy
Food & Drinks news NEW OPENINGS
Coming Soon: Quince
Now considered gourmet food as well as fast food, the humble beef burger has been experiencing a renaissance of late, one that looks set to continue with the opening of Burger Factory (corner of Ekamai Soi 10 | 02-7144249 | Facebook: theburgerfactory). How does it differ from all the other burger joints out there? It truly is a factory (albeit a very stylish one): before being flame grilled, all the patties are handmade from scratch using grass and grain fed Australian beef. Buns are also baked in-house.
Of the endless new restaurant openings, only a handful inspires much in the way of excitement. Quince, an intimate new eatery and bar on Sukhumvit Soi 45 that’s set to open in June, is one of them. Located right behind topend furniture store Casa Pagoda, the space looks set to be bright and unfussy, pairing classic furniture from the store and vintage touches with an industrial glasshouse feel. There’ll also be veranda with greenery and a second floor with two private rooms. But most of the buzz is about Aussie chef Jess Barnes’ modern Australian food. A couple of years back he had a successful run at the Intercontinental Hotel’s Grossi, and recently he’s staged pop-up feasts at Bed Supperclub and Opposite, and we, along with the rest of the city’s foodie fraternity, are hoping for similarly great things from Quince. “Innovative yet unpretentious” is what they’re calling the food. And the drinks will be just as important, apparently. News of the imminent opening will break at Facebook: quincebangkok first.
Also on a gentrified Sukhumvit sub-soi, Above Eleven (33rd Floor, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 | www.aboveeleven.com) is a snazzy new rooftop bar restaurant with an unusual menu. The food, Nikkei cuisine, is a hybrid of Peruvian and Japanese cooking that originated over 120 years ago, when the first Japanese migrated to the South American country. Seems a bit random? Apparently not: Peruvian cuisine has been hot-tipped as one of this year’s food trends by Time and The Guardian. Other intriguing USPs: abstract art installation like décor inspired by New York’s Central Park and unobstructed Panda To The Masses views of Sukhumvit’s skyline. In to Bangkok's already rather crowded food home delivMeanwhile, somtum is going upscale, slightly, at ery market lumbers the Singapore-based FoodPanda. Somtum Der (5/5 Saladaeng Road, Silom | 02-632-4499). Currently this cute, slick and easy-to use website has a In a café-like shophouse setting, you can enjoy varia- 130+ strong restaurant database comprised mainly of tions on its namesake – fiery green papaya salad – among restaurants that even we haven’t heard of. That said, they do have a few gems on their books (Hai Somtum, other northeastern dishes. Muse Garden and Pizzazo, etc) and have just announced a valuable partnership with foot-long sandwich chain Subway, which should help them seal a few others. Their contacts are: facebook.com/foodpanda.co.th; twitter.com/foodpanda_th and foodpanda.co.th.
FOOD & DRINKS
Meal MEAL Deals May 8 – 12 – Raw United Metropolitan Hotel [map 5 / L 8] 27 South Sathorn Rd | 02-625 3333 | www.metropolitan.bangkok.como.bz Diana von Cranach, a pioneer of the raw food movement, has teamed up with the Executive Chef at the Metropolitan’s Glow, Chris Miller, to bring the living food experience to Bangkok foodies. Experience “Rawfully Good” à la carte dishes and set menus created using only the freshest locally sourced ingredients. Available for lunch and dinner with a special Green & White Gala dinner on 11 May. Until June 30 – Brazilian Churrascaria Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park [map 5 / K 4] 952 Rama IV Rd | 02-632 9000 | www.crowneplaza.com This Brazilian BBQ buffet sounds like beef lover bliss. Fire roasted prime beef cuts, barbequed on skewers Brazilian Churrasco style, will be presented to your table by expert meat carvers, or Cortadores. The buffet (B 1,500++) also includes Brazilian chicken, fish and vegetable dishes and desserts. On 11 May guest chef Edmilson Azevedo from Sao Paulo will host a wine dinner featuring Chilean wines (B2,500++). Ongoing – Chef's Table in Celadon's Herb Garden Sukhothai Hotel [map 5 / L 8] 13/3 South Sathorn Road | 02-344 8888 | www.sukhothai.com A Thai chef ’s table out in The Sukhothai’s very own herb garden is now available. Sitting amongst fragrant basil, coriander and kaffir lime leaves you can enjoy Celadon Chef Chamlong Pewthaisong’s Anchan and Puong Chompu set menus (B 2,800++ or B 3,400++ per person), all created with vegetables grown and harvested only a few yards from where you sit. You must book at least two days in advance. May 4 – 13 – Southeast Asian Food Festival 2012 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square [MAP 4 / D 5] 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd | 02-209 8888 | www.novotel.com Chefs from Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand will whip up traditional dishes and serve them at the hotel’s flagship lunch and dinner buffet. You can also win a family holiday in Phuket for four that includdes return flights and a two night stay at the Novotel Phuket Resort. Regular buffet prices of B 650++ for lunch and B 899++ for dinner apply (children half price.) May to July 2012 – Tapas Festival Crepes & Co. [map 3 / F7] and [map 3 / R 2] 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | or Eight Thong Lor, Thong Lor Soi 8 | www.crepesnco.com A Bangkok institution when it comes to authentic Mediterranean food, Crepes & Co. is currently putting the limelight on tapas, Spain’s snacky delicacy. These small dishes made of lean grilled meats and seafood, vegetables, cheeses and tasty olive oil are perfect for sharing. Exceptionally hungry eaters have the option of adding a hearty Spanish paella – or finishing off the evening with something sweet. Ongoing – Healthy Lunch Time Blue Spice & Herbs [map 3 / G 6] 5th F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-108 0948 | terminal21@blue-spice.com Those looking for a healthy lunch should add Blue Spice & Herbs to their lunchtime itinerary. Located on the 5th floor of Bangkok’s popular Terminal 21 shopping mall, its tasty globe-trotting food goes well with the international theme of the venue. Plus, the special lunchtime deal includes one pasta dish and all you can eat salad for a very good value B168++. Weekdays from 11 am – 3 pm (excluding public holidays).
5 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | R estaurant R eview
Parata Diamond Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones
– artsy happenings meet new american – We were expecting this new gastro bar to be the work of some old hand, but it actually belongs to a bohemian twentysomething and her family. Somewhat surprisingly then, for their first stab in the business, Parata Diamond is a very slick proposition. There’s the location down an Ekamai backstreet, only a short hop from all the nearby clubs. There’s the big, converted 1960s townhouse with a dark and sophisticated Moroccan feel, lots of nooks sparingly graced with daybeds, tables or sofas, and a leafy garden. There are artsy add-ons such as exhibitions of local art upstairs, and open-air cultural shows every Wednesday. And then there’s the food, which, instead of the usual Thai and international, is ‘New American’. What’s New American cuisine you ask? Upscale, contemporary cooking that’s not afraid to fuse flavours from across America’s huge melting pot. Which basically means anything goes. So it is that Nhoi, a young female chef who trained and worked in Denver, rustles up everything from Polish-style Pierogi puffs with pork belly confit and an Indian-ish pineapple relish to Southern-Thai style spaghetti and bowls of chrysanthemum panna cotta. Which is kind of fun, we think.
getting there
PARATA DIAMOND [MAP 8 / T 15] Ekamai Soi 24 (Sukhumvit Soi 63) | BTS Ekamai 08-5167-6489 | facebook: Parata-Diamond Mon – Sat 6 pm – 1 am bangkok101.com
Not that every dish is a total success. Our swiss chard lasagna with wild mushroom béchamel was rich and comforting whole food, an excellent dish; but the watery, spicy Thai-style sauce that accompanied what followed – a slab of pan-roasted salmon atop a bed of steamed mussels – didn’t quite work we thought. Still, this is one of the more interesting menus in the area. While the kitchen appears a pretty tight ship, the rest of Parata is more volatile, eager to keep you guessing – and we like that too. Happenings range from belly dancers to DJs (Friday / Saturday) to screenings of old movies (see their Facebook page for their latest “‘Artist’ Shit Happening”). Another unusual touch are the girls' toilets, with its rack filled with local clothes labels that you can try and buy. Finally, we come to the drinks, which are a cut above the usual bar tipples. The dedicated menu lists an impressive range: aged single malts, cognacs, a dozen or so white wines (bottles only; B1,190 – 3,500), 30 plus reds (B1,190 – 5,500), imported beers. Of the many cocktails, the must try is the meant-to-be-shared Parata Prae (B 920), a Morrocan teapot filled with a blend of rum, Cointreau, syrup and peach tea. Pour into one of the ice-filled with tumbles, garnish with brown sugar, mint and cinnamon stick and you have yourself a very exotic (and potent) variation on the mojito. Part art bar hangout, part polished bistro, Parata Diamond is naïvely ambitious but all the more alluring for it. We can see it working with everyone from hi-so brats to hipsters. ภารตะไดมอนด์ เอกมัย ซ.24 M ay 2 0 1 2 | 5 7
FOOD & DRINKS
The Local
Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones
– an enjoyable journey back through the recipe books – Considering how many restaurants open up here each month – three or four at least – you may be surprised to learn that very few of them are ‘authentic’ Thai ones. Seems we’ve tired of those traditional joints where a teak-lined interior and gracious wai on arrival is a front for a play-it-safe menu of fish cakes and green curries. This seems to be borne out by the fact that most Thai joints that have opened here in the past couple of years are anything but middle of the road: either hyper traditional (Bo.lan, Nahm, Tab Chang), or hyper progressive (Sra Bua), or celebrity chef-led (Issaya Siamese Club). The latest entrant to this increasingly competitive field is Sukhumvit Soi 23’s The Local, a restaurant by the family behind Soi Convent’s very upscale Naj. Though neither party are likely to appreciate us mentioning them in the same breath, it’s hard to not compare it with Bo.lan, the hit restaurant that shook up the Thai fine-dining scene a few years back. Both are located in converted townhouses tucked deep inside Sukhumvit sois, both aim to preserve Thai culinary heritage (and plunder dusty old recipe books in their quest for borderline extinct dishes), and both source all their ingredients locally. These are where the similarities end, however, as the settings and menus are actually very different. For starters, The Local is a more sprawling, less intimate proposition housed across two buildings. The leafy exterior is an endearing start, particularly the vibrant indigo-blue terrace decorated with traditional jars and daybeds, but move inside and things get more overblown. One of the lavish VIP rooms, for example, is themed after the Damnoen Saduak 5 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
floating market, another is lined with oars and a copy of Kap He Chom Krueng Khao, the famous food-invoking love poem that King Rama II composed while rowing across a lake. Traditional khim music blares in the tad too bright main dining room lined with temple-style murals. None of these touristy elements bother us particularly; but they do seem slightly jarring in light of the food, which is anything but touristy. Unlike Bo.lan, which offers a lifeline to floundering Thai food novices in the form of a balanced set menu, here there’s only a lavish à la carte menu to pick from, one that even born and bred locals find baffling in places (we know – we dined with one). Clued-up, English speaking staff are on hand to help you decode the descriptions (or at least there was on our visit). But even so, prepare to be disorientated – Thai comfort food this ain’t. Not that that’s a bad thing per se. Tread carefully, ask about those spice levels, and you’re in for a tasty ride into new (but actually old) culinary terrain. Dishes on our table ranged from the slightly unusual, such as the crunchily good deep fried curried shrimp cakes with polyscias leaves (B180), to the head-scratchingly obscure, such as pla ta pia dtom khem (B 380), a notoriously bony fish that they stew for 30 hours, until the bones have disintegrated and the meat is borderline pate (tastier than it sounds). For us, though, no dish summed up The Local experience better than the gaeng lan juan (B240): a sour, mouth numbingly hot nam prik-based beef curry with a backstory as complex as its flavours. Afterwards, we quenched the fire with refreshing cocktails made with rice spirits and fruit and herbs plucked from the bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | R estaurant R eview
restaurant's on-site garden. Did we adore every dish? No. Is the earnest faithfulness to food that has fallen off the radar (for a reason, some may argue) going to be off-putting for some? Definitely. Still, if you consider yourself open-minded or a food adventurist, this is one ‘authentic’ new Thai restaurant that you should try.
getting there
The Local [MAP 3 / G 4] 32 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Klong Toey BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-664-0664 11:30 am – 2:30 pm; 5:30 pm – 11:30 pm
เดอะ โลคอล สุขุมวิท ซ.23
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 5 9
FOOD & DRINKS
Beirut
Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones
– a big-hitter in the middle eastern flavours department – Restaurants in malls have to work that bit harder to win our affections, but the original branch of Beirut, in the basement of the Ploenchit Centre, just across from the enclave of Middle Eastern restaurants on Sukhumvit 3/1, is one of the few that has managed it. The reason we keep coming back is simple: its pros (fresh, flavoursome Lebanese food served in big portions) vastly outweigh its cons (bland mall location, unsmiley service).
Being lovers of Lebanese cuisine’s exotic, vegetable-based dips and salads we could easily have spent our entire meal just fighting over plates of these mezze (small dishes). But it would be a shame to come to Beirut and not also tuck into its meat offerings, which we duly did. Be it a humble chicken swarma (B190), boiled lamb with fragrant, cardamom-seed flecked rice, or a full-on mixed barbeque grill perfect for sharing, all were delightfully tender and infused with flavour. The not-too-oily chicken and kafta (minced lamb skewers) This also holds true for Beirut’s newest fourth branch. were especially good. While yet again the mall setting is only so-so (but a bit more upscale, with a pleasant outdoor terrace), things take a big Dessert was baklava (B 70), the treacly layered pastry treat upward turn as soon as you commence scarfing on its lem- that kebab shops in the West hand out for free to good on-fresh salads, creamy dips and beautifully marinated meat customers. Here, though, it’s worth paying for, with almond, kebabs, among other well-done Lebanese delights. pistachio and walnut variations available, all of them rich, gooey and sweet. Begin by ordering in the classics, such as the falafel (chick peas patties served deep fried with tahina sauce; B180) and Beirut is the sort of restaurant that all too image obsessed hummus (super smooth; B120). Another must is one of Bei- Bangkok needs more of – uninspiring on the face of it but rut’s big, skillfully charred naan breads (B 45) to scoop it up a big-hitter in the flavour department. There’s nothing parwith – few eating pleasures in life are as simple yet satisfying. ticularly chic or sleek about it, but you’d have to be a curmugon to hold that against it. Also good here are fresh, citrusy, invigorating salads like the tabouleh (B160) and fatoush (B160). The former is finely อาคาร 8 ชั้น 2 ทองหล่อ ซ.8 (สุขุมวิท ซ.55) diced parsey mixed with diced tomato, mint and olive oil; the latter hits a similarly sour note but wields thicker chunks of veg. Jazzing this lot up were a trio of free dips: garlic getting there mousse, labneh (soft yoghurt cheese), and chilli. Beirut [mAP 3 / R 2] 2 nd F, 8 Building, Thonglor Soi 8, Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit 55) | BTS Thong Lo 02-714-8963 | 11 am – 11 pm
6 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINKS
cooking with the master Aaron Mahan dons an apron at the first of celebrity chef Ian Kittichai’s exclusive Thai cooking classes
I
f you’ve ever seen the cardboard cutout of a smiling man in a chef’s coat at the grocery store and thought, “I’d like that guy to teach me how to make a fresh heart of palm and banana blossom salad,” then you’re in luck. Chef Pongtawat “Ian” Chalermkittichai – brand ambassador for Tops Supermarkets and founder of impressive restaurants in New York City, Barcelona, Mumbai and most recently Bangkok – is ready to personally walk you step-by-step through his most popular dishes. On various (and somewhat random) Saturday mornings, Chef Ian opens his kitchen at Issaya Siamese Club to teach small groups how to create items from his flagship Thai restaurant’s menu. For foodies interested in going behind the scenes and seeing how a professional kitchen operates, the experience is enlightening. During the inaugural class, the day started with dessert: kanom dok mali (jasmine flower flan). One of the most raved about dishes on Issaya’s menu, Chef Ian talked the group of four students through its preparation. There wasn’t much hands-on work to do be done at this stage, but the activity did serve as a good ice breaker. With the dessert chilling in the fridge, it was time to move on to the salad. The Issaya kitchen crew swooped in with nearly all the ingredients prepped, portioned and packaged. Anyone previously worried about showing a lack of knife skills in front of a world-renowned chef was now able to relax. Chef Ian demonstrated the proper technique for preparing the banana blossom and the students followed. After that, they didn’t have much use for a knife again until it was time to eat. 6 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Working his way through each ingredient in the yum huaplee (fresh heart of palm and banana blossom salad), the chef added colourful commentary about the reason each was in the dish and a bit about it’s history. Other stories gave a glimpse into the life of an international super-chef, as he explained how these dishes are handled in his foreign restaurants or the troubles he’s encountered sourcing product in various countries. The next two dishes – yum makuapow (grilled eggplant salad) and gai ob prik (Sanklaburee all natural chicken) – were more of the same, but in a good way. The staff took care of the tough stuff and were there to assist when they saw a colossal failure on the horizon, and Chef Ian carried on revealing his secrets, answering questions, and – apart from name-dropping Eva Mendes once – generally being the cool and downto-earth character everyone can root for. The classes aren’t cheap and you don’t take home more than your recipes and a full belly, but for any aspiring Thai cook wanting to bypass the dish-washing station and move straight to working alongside a master chef, Issaya is the place to be. Cooking Classes at Issaya Siamese Club [MAP 8 / M 18]
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd, Sathorn 02-672-9040 | www.issaya.com Classes cost B4,900++ and include set lunch. The next is on June 9. รร.สอนทำ�อาหาร อิษยา สยามมิสคลับ bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | ian K ittichai ' s cooking class
How to Make… Kanom Dok Mali (Jasmine Flower Flan) If we had to pick a highlight of dining at Ian’s Thai restaurant it would be his desserts, especially this one inspired by his time in New York. Bring this exotic yet simple dish out from the kitchen at your next dinner party and you’ll be the toast of the table. It serves four. Ingredients
700 ml
coconut milk
1 tbs
agar agar powder
100g
sugar
1 tsp
sea salt
3 drops jasmine extract 1
/2 cup
freeze-dried mango
1
/4 cup
mango, cut in to sticks
1
/4 cup
mangosteen segments
1
/4 cup
dragon fruit, cut into chunks
12 pcs
coconut tuile
1 tbs
crispy rice
kanom dok mali
Directions
Bring coconut and agar agar milk to boil in a saucepan, remove from the heat then stir in sugar and salt. Pour into four molds and keep in the refrigerator until the flans set. Individually dip the bottom of each mold in hot water and invert on the plate. Garnish with freeze-dried mango, mango, mangosteen segments, dragon fruit, coconut tuile and crispy rice.
banana blossom salad
four seasons bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 6 3
FOOD & DRINKS
brunch at Chu Brunch review by Max Crosbie-Jones
– so much more than just a cake shop – Chu first came to our attention as a café specialising in hot chocolate and ‘churros’, which are ridged spirals of sugary dough that the Spanish eat with chocolate con curros (a thick custard-like chocolate) or dulce de leche (sticky caramel-based sauce). It still does, but the truth is that right from the get-go this chill spot, located on the walkway level of Asok’s Exchange Tower office block, was also knocking out baguettes, paninis, muffins, cookies, cakes, brownies and brunch.
While we’ve not tried the lot, yet, the rest of the offerings sound equally good; scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, dill and mascarpone cheese on ciabatta toast (B 280) sits next to egg white frittatas (oven-baked omelette enriched with extra goodies, B 260), a full on American breakfast (B 220), and baked egg and bacon baskets (B 70). The sweeter side of things is covered by homemade pancakes or ciabatta French toast, with fresh imported strawberries and blueberries (B 235), or banana, chocolate chip and whipped cream (B170). And should those not pique your sweet fancy, Toey, the young Thai proprietor, is an erstwhile food writer there’s a whole glass display case filled with more of Toey’s who ditched his notepad, went on a cordon bleu cooking well crafted, Chu-branded sugar hits. course and dared to try his luck in the fickle Bangkok F&B business. As all his regulars know (and there are quite a In the ultra competitive brunch spot stakes, Chu loses few), he is an upfront, no nonsense sort and very dedicated a couple of points for being in an office block, but, in our to his new craft. He and his staff can often be seen slaving opinion, the rest of the package makes up for it. And nudges over tomorrow’s batch long after the last customers have it ahead of most of the pack. Jolting Arabica coffee, myriad left, and the result is some of the best looking and tasting hot chocolates (made using the pure imported stuff not sweat treats and sandwiches in this part of town. powders), lots of lounge space, free Wi-Fi, magazines to bury yourself in – Chu offers one of the best late starts to The same attention to detail seems to be in evidence in the day you can find in this neck of the woods. Chu’s brunch menu. For example, when it arrives, the bestselling Eggs Benedict looks cookery-book perfect, ever-so เอ็กซ์เชน ทาวเวอร์ อโศก sumptuous: two perfectly poached eggs, glazed in Dijon hollandaise sit atop two wholegrain English muffins. And getting there once you’ve eased your knife through it, releasing a wondrous torrent of yoke all over your plate, it tastes it too. CHU [mAP 3 / H 6] You can have it with well crisped rashers of Canadian bacon 2 nd F Exchange Tower, Unit 204 – 206 388 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit (B 220) or Norwegian smoked salmon (B 280). 02-663 4554 | facebook: chu.bkk Mon – Fri 7:30 am – 9:30 pm; Sat – Sun 9 am – 9 pm 6 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | brunch R eview
Pure Vegetarian
discovering INDIA in delicious new ways !!
CUISINE ART
Thai Tandoori Gujarati Rajhasthani South Indian Indian Chinese Sweets-n-Snack Chaat Chowpaty
Bangkok
Pattaya
Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Near Windsor Hotel) Bangkok 10110 02 401 8484
557, Sun City Hotel Pratamnak Rd. Pattaya Tai (South) 03 8424 769
www.saras.co.th bangkok101.com
Hidden in a secret oasis right in the heart of Bangkok, Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art with the elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Experience exquisite Thai flavours. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Plus happy hours from 3 to 6 p.m. daily.
Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 6 5
FOOD & DRINKS
ealtike
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel …
Isan-style black pepper chicken Most Thais know that kai yang khao suan kwang, a famous regional variation on grilled chicken, is found along the highway through Khon Kaen, a province in the Northeast. For many it’s a must buy when travelling along this road. Its popularity is down to the fibrous and succulent texture of the meat, which is raised free-range in conditions that put the industrialised poultry industry to shame. It’s also down to how its prepared: marinated, flattened and clasped between bamboo sticks for easy handling, and then grilled over charcoal. The result is something far more interesting than your average grilled chicken. There's the crispy skin; the scent of black pepper (prikthai dam) and other herbs; and then there’s the pliable, chewy texture of the meat. Pushing it into the realms of the sublime though is the layer of extra grounded black pepper and golden fried garlic on top. I’d always thought that a trip northeast was essential if you wanted to enjoy this simple delicacy –but a recent feed in Chinatown with an old friend proved me wrong. Identifiable by its neon sign featuring a cartoon chef clasping the merchandise, Kai Baan Prik Thai Dam is a Thai-Chinese owned restaurant with an Isan kitchen team. Therefore, while the chili levels have been toned down for locals slightly, this is still the delicious real deal. Besides the kai yang, I also recommend their som tum (papaya salad), laab moo (minced pork spicy salad) and young bamboo shoot salad.
getting there
Kai Ban Prikt hai Dam [mAP 8 / F 13] Maitrichit Rd, across from the exit of Wat Plabplachai | 10 am – 9 pm (closed on the third Sunday of the month)
ไก่บ้านพริกไทยดำ� ถ.ไมตรีจิต
6 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | S treet F ood
Street Food Hotspots
SUKHUMVIT SOI 38 [map 3 / S 7] Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. SURAWONG [map 5 / J 4] A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10 pm until 4 am. CORNER OF SILOM / CONVENT [map 5 / J 5] The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2 – 3 am) to avoid the queues. PRATUNAM [map 4 / G 2] Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Rd, Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce.
CHINATOWN [map 6 / H, J 3] Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. SOI RAMBUTRI (NEAR KHAOSAN) [map 7 / F,G5] Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of the Swensen’s ice cream parlour. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls.
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 6 7
FOOD & DRINKS
Baan klang Nam
Thai
Tummy Yummy
the garrett
sweet side.
done. Curries are thick with fragrant, longstewed herbs, and flaky-tender roti make the perfect accompaniment. The fried chicken is juicy from it marinade, and the skin will have diners scrapping over the crunchy bits. Those looking for an elegant setting should head elsewhere, but if you’re up for excellent Thai food in enormous portions look no further than Wanakarm.
ฮาโมนิค เจริญกรุง ซ.34
TUMMY YUMMY [MAP 4 / J 6] BAAN KLANG NAM [MAP 2 / E 12] Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd 288 Rama III, Soi 14 Bang Kho Laem BTS Chid Lom | 02-254-1061 02-292-0175 | www.baanklangnam.net www.tummyyummytonson.com 11 am – 10:30 pm Mon – Sat 11 am – 2:30 pm; 5:30 pm – 10 pm If busy is best when it comes to fresh Thai An elegant reprieve from Ploenchit Road’s food, you won’t regret stopping by this hurly burly, Tummy Yummy is a simple เรือนอาหารวนคาม large diner beside the Chao Phaya River. European style heritage house with a very ซ.ประสานมิตร สุขุมวิท 23 Popular with fresh-off-the-boats and locals leafy setting. Cars and motorbikes gaily alike, the seafood-centric menu here rarely whiz past it and little foot traffic bar the skimps on the spice quotient and comes odd Lang Suan resident makes it down served in a big old, clapboard Thai house this far. End result? A whisper-quiet place AMERICAN in pale yellows and whites. Wait staff are suited to the discreet lunch or dinner, perswift and genial, despite never getting a haps with that new ‘gig’ (lover) you’re not quiet moment, while the ambiance is busy ready to be seen out with just yet. Like the THE GARRETT [MAP 3/ S 1] yet atmospheric. And, it’s cheap! Stand- simple, woody setting, the fare isn’t exactly Rooftop, Mini Showroom (Ekamai Soi 7), outs: steamed seafood custard in banana adventurous – a pork rad na made with 99/99 Sukhumvit 63 | BTS Ekkamai leaf cups; the tom yum goong with huge deep fried rice noodles, adding a pleasing 02-711-6999 | www.thegarretbistrobar.com river prawns and tender slivers of coco- crispy texture to the gravy dish, is about 11:30 am – 2:30 pm; 6 pm – 11:30 pm nut; baked whole mussels with herbs and as inventive as things get here – but freshly Formerly just occupied by one restaurant, feisty nam jim (dipping sauce). But the real prepared. Our picks include the green this rooftop space on Ekamai re-emerged joy here is the picture menu which inspires curry roti sandwich (B 225) and the red in early 2011 as two distinct venues. Part strayings out of your “I’ll-have-chicken- duck curry thick with basil, lime leaves, pep- of it remains as Italian fine dining venue green-curry-please” comfort zone – that percorns and pineapple. Seek it out after Fuzio, while the rest was transformed into The Garret ‘Secret Bistro Bar’, featurand the nostalgic, riverside setting. shopping at the nearby Central Chidlom ing contemporary design and serving new department store, and do check out their บ้านกลางน้ำ� ถ.พระราม 3 ซ.14 American cuisine. The space is divided rear patio – one of only a few tropical garinto three distinct sections: The Glass den sanctuaries in the area. HARMONIQUE [MAP 5 / C 3] Room, a chic bar area with weekly DJ 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 ทัมมี่ยัมมี่ ซ.ต้นสน nights; The Dining Room; a warm mix of 02-237-8175 | Mon – Sat 11 am – 10 pm baroque armchairs, exposed brick walls, This Chinese shophouse – three streets WANAKARM [MAP 3 / G5] tiled floors, and cabinets full of the owner’s away from the Oriental Hotel – is a bit 98 Sukhumvit Soi 23 BTS Asok / ceramic collectables; and The Rooftop outdifficult to find but its superb atmosphere MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-4241 door area. The menu is as comforting as makes it definitely worth looking for. The Mon – Sat 11:30 am – 10 am; the surroundings, with large size portions high ceilinged dining rooms may be too Sun 4 pm – 10:30 pm and reasonable prices. We began with a much for aesthetes; some adore the accu- A little piece of Thai culinary history, traditional-tasting bar snack of potato skin mulate bric-a-bric; others find it down-right Wanakarm is set in a sprawling house that nachos (served with smoky cheddar and garish. You can always sit and unwind at may trigger flashbacks to earlier, homier chipotle sour cream, B 250), and a Jumbo the marble tables in the shady, soothing, times. Seated behind a gracious garden Secret Chef Salad (serves two, B 390), a flower-filled courtyard, which will make area, the house is full of unpretentious, huge feast of roast chicken, cooked ham, you forget all about the high-stress levels clunky wooden tables, a lumpy sofa or two avocado, onion rings and the house vinaiof Bangkok’s urbanity. The food is Thai, and in the private rooms – and food that tastes grette. The result was an incredible tasting clearly influenced by the Chinese heritage like it’s made by Mom. Whoever is at the and filling summery salad. The only disapof the cheerful siblings who run the place. deep-fryer deserves a standing ovation – pointment of the meal was the ‘Garret’ If you’re used to the spiciness of Thai food everything crunchy and calorie-laden, from (B190), a flat pastry similar to apple strumake sure you ask for hot versions; other- filler-free shrimp cakes to explosively crack- del served with room temperature vanilla wise you might find the spice level on the ly Vietnamese spring rolls, is beautifully crème fraiche. Expect the crowd – like 6 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINKS
bouchot
Indian Chaat
eat me
most Ekamai establishments – to be mostly INDIAN CHAAT [MAP 3 / H 5] moneyed Thai, out enjoying the combina- 59/4, Sukhumvit Soi 23 International tion of a relaxed atmosphere and excellent (opposite Smart School and next Western dining. to Robinsons School of Music) BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit EAT ME [MAP 5 / J 6] เดอะการ์เร็ตซีเคร็ทบิสโทรบาร์ 02-259-7900 | indianchaat.blogspot.com 1/6 Soi Pipat 2, Convent Rd มินิสแควร์ สุขุมวิท ซ.63 Mon – Tue 10 am – 10 pm; BTS Sala Daeng | 02-238-0931 Fri – Sun 11 am – 11 pm www.eatmerestaurant.com In Hindi, the word ‘chaat’ means lick, and 3 pm – 1 am (last kitchen orders) is the colloquial term used for snacks, the Thirteen years old and still doing the busiFRENCH only type of food on the menu at Indian ness? Eat Me is proof that it can happen. Chaat. The restaurant is the brainchild of Hidden away on a Silom backstreet, this BOUCHOT [MAP 3 / M 8] an expatriate Indian family with a simple restaurant-cum-gallery impresses from Oakwood Residence, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 24 aim: to produce the most authentic Indian the get-go, with an exotic wall of potted BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-5510 snacks in Bangkok at the most reason- bamboo swaying on an otherwise plain www.bouchot-restaurant.com able prices. The surroundings are simple sidewalk. Past it, a courtyard leads to a 6 am – 10:30 am; 11:30 am – 2 pm; but functional, with red tablecloths and a staircase, which in turn leads up into a dim 5:30 pm – midnight sprinkling of artwork on the walls. By the L-shaped dining room where modern art Bouchot has a creative touch that belies entrance is a glass display cabinet where – curated by the well-respected H Gallery, its serviced apartment location. It stands the traditional sweets are kept, a tempting lit and hung to pro-gallery standards – alone, so you don’t need to walk through array that includes ras malai (sugary balls graces the walls. The food – which some reception, and it’s accessed by descend- of paneer soaked in clotted cream and label fusion, others pacific rim – is a mix of ing stairs into a faux Parisian street scene, flavoured with cardamom, B20) and the proven favourites that regulars can reel off complete with café tables and atmospheric brownish-red coloured gulab jamun (deep- with their eyes closed and recent additions shop facades. It’s an ideal introduction to fried milk product soaked in a sugary syrup, by the head chef and partner, New York a cosy, basement bar and bistro whose B15). On the main menu is a true smorgas- maestro Tim Butler. Begin with a selection speciality is French- and Belgian-style mus- bord of flavours, including pani puri (also of flamboyant starters like a crisp, fresh witsels. Imported every Monday and Thursday, known as golguppe, B50 for six pieces), lof salad primed with mozzarella, asparagus, the shellfish are served in half or full kilos traditional street food that consist of hol- preserved lemon and fresh raspberries; or in a silver metal bowl, accompanied by lowed out, deep-fried dough balls that you a citrusy-spicy scallop ceviche served in a either French bread or fries and a choice make a small hole in, fill with potato, onion, cocktail glass. Then, move on to the fig and of sauces. They’re best to eat with your chick peas and sauces, and then devour in blue cheese ravioli for a delicate main perhands, accompanied by a glass or two of one, taste-exploding bite. Following this haps, or something heavier like the tender house wine (four choices from B270). A half were equally delicious servings of paneer grain-fed Australian beef tenderloin topped kilo is good for two people, and those with pakora (deep-fried cottage cheese, B70), with blue cheese and caramelised onions. middling appetites may find that’s enough. samosas (B10 each), and papri chaat (puri You can also ask the friendly, menu-savvy Otherwise, there’s also a list of appetisers, covered with yoghurt and sweet tamarind staff to get the kitchen to resurrect a dish salads and pastas and a few crowd-pleasing chutney, B50). Everything was ridiculously off an old menu, or one that has never feamains such as rack of lamb, salmon and rib good, and at prices that meant we weren’t tured but just reflects the here and now in eye. Desserts include a good crème brulée afraid to keep ordering. Alongside an order Tim’s fridge. This is an audacious and well and a so-so banoffee pie. In sum, mussels of sweet lassi (B50), and a smattering of oiled restaurant that grabs your attention are the stars of the Bouchot show, but the sweets to takeaway, our entire bill came to at first bite and doesn’t let go until the last. rest is also extremely decent bistro fare. under 700 baht – a steal. in recent months Speaking of last bites, make sure yours Bon appétit. In recent months we’ve watched in amaze- is a dessert – from the legendary sticky ment as Indian Chaat has shot up the ranks date pudding, to the preposterously good, โอ๊ควู้ด เรสซิเด้นท์ สุขุมวิท ซ.24 to become the number one restaurant in mousse-like dark chocolate cake these are town on Tripadvisor. Is it really that good? some of the most thrilling in town. That’s debatable; but it is certainly one of อีท มี ถ.คอนแวนต์ Indian the best value meals in Bangkok. อินเดียนจาร์ค สุขุมวิท ซ.23
7 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | re S taurants
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 7 1
FOOD & DRINKS
uncle john
Ten Sui
La Monita
UNCLE JOHN [MAP 5 / K 9] creamy, garlicky mash potato (B 289); and have formed a vice-like grip on Thai food Suan Plu Soi 8 the succulent grilled duck breast with gra- in the world’s consciousness, those in the (fourth shophouse down on the left) tin potatoes and blueberry orange sauce know savour the fresh and fiery offerings 081-373-3865 | 6:30 pm – 10:30 pm (B 329). Others swear by Uncle John’s from the northeastern region of Isaan. One of the most inspiring shophouse salads, steaks, pastas and specials board. The barn-like Vientiane Kitchen, in upper kitchen success stories in town. Its secret Fine-dining touches like fancy plating are Sukhumvit, takes Isaan’s close ties with weapon is the eponymous Uncle John, a included, while others, like starched nap- Laos as its cue for an earthy showpiece haute cuisine trained Thai chef at a nearby kins, slick service and spotless toilets aren’t. restaurant that throws live music and dance luxury hotel who recreates the magic in a To avoid long waits (and burning Uncle John performances into the mix. Don’t come next-to-zero frills setting, and for quite a bit out), try and come along early or mid-week, expecting high-backed loungers and silk cheaper, each night. From a slow trickle of when the place isn’t so busy. A bigger dining napkins: Vientiane Kitchen wears its bamcustomers when it first opened, word has space a few doors down now caters to his boo furniture and ramshackle layout with spread, particularly among expats, groups growing fanclub. pride. Simple grilled chicken and nam prik of whom sit inside and outside on stools, อังเคิล จอห์น สวนพลู ซ.8 chilli dips are the stars here – true ambaswaiting for their food to arrive as they chat sadors of the region – while there’s someover a cold Leo beer or sweet glass of wine. thing alluring about folding up chunks of And wait you must. As Uncle John rustles snakehead fish and noodles into lettuce up everything himself at his compact out- Isan / Laos packages and washing it down with one of door kitchen the waits can be long – often Asia’s finest brews, Beer Lao. Meanwhile, a half an hour or more. Still, if you don’t have huge centre-front stage hosts entertaining to be somewhere in a hurry, it’s worth it. Vientiane Kitchen [MAP 3 / R 7] musicians and traditional dance routines Though he’s upped his prices a bit recently 8 Naphasap Yak 1 Sukhumvit 36 from graceful, painted lovelies. Not a gouryou won’t find a lobster bisque this good BTS Thong Lo | 02-258-6171 met venue by any means, but still a fun, for B149 elsewhere, even in this town. www.vientiane-kitchen.com affordable night out and a good opportuDishes we keep coming back for include noon – midnight nity to sample some regional delicacies. the seabass fillet with ratatouille and side of While tom yum goong and green curry may ครัวเวียงจันทน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.36
7 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | re S taurants
ITALIAN
JAPANESE
and frequently replenished selections of imported sake. เทนซุย สุขุมวิท ซ.16
PIZZAZO [MAP 3 / J 8] Ten Sui [MAP 3 / J 8] 188 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok / Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok / MEXICAN MRT Sukhumvit | 02-663-8500 MRT Sukhunvit | 02-663-2281 www.pizzazobistro.com 11:30 am – 2 pm; 5:30 pm – 10 pm Tue – Fri 11:30 am – 10 pm; Modeled on a ryotei (an exclusive, referralSat – Sun 11 am – 10 pm only type of Japanese restaurant where La Monita Taqueria [MAP 4 / L 5] The original concept behind Pizzazo was to discreet business lunches take place, often 888/26 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd create a takeaway pizzeria business deliv- in the company of a Geisha), Ten Sui is BTS Phloen Chit | 02-650-9581 ering traditional Napoli-style pizzas – as one of the best – and most expensive – 11:30 am – 10 pm (last kitchen orders) opposed to the fast-food American ver- Japanese restaurants in town, offering first- San Franciscan Billy Bautista brought a little sions – to hungry Bangkokians. However, rate hospitality and food in a traditional of his home city to Bangkok with the type when its owner Khun Thanit came across gated Zen garden setting. The second the of Mexican diner found all over California. a neglected empty white house on a plot sliding wooden doors are peeled back by The tables, bench seating and windowside in Sukhumvit Soi 16 earlier this year, he set the kimono-clad female staff, revealing a bar could have been knocked up in a school about transforming the site into a French- converted Thai townhouse with range of woodwork class; the food is served in litItalian bistro. After a mere two months seating options (sushi/sashimi bar; con- tle plastic baskets. It’s anti-chic; an eating hard work, Pizzazo the restaurant emerged. servatory with leather sofas; private tatami (rather than dining) experience, where the We began with a bright bruschetta alle mat rooms upstairs), you know this place warm orange interior sets a cosy, familial verdure (B150). No simple tomato salsa is the real deal. And the food confirms atmosphere for some really tasty food. The on this bread, rather a fresh and flavour- it… the kitchen sources all its ingredients menu has burritos, nachos, wings and a ful vegetable medley of tomato and basil, from Japan, even presenting dishes on dif- choice of Mexi or Cali tacos – the Cali a bit grilled artichoke and vegetables topped ferent lacquerware in different seasons (as fancier, with beans and guacamole – filled with mozzarella. As for pizzas, order the is the face-gaining Japanese tradition). The with fish, beef, chicken, or shrimp (one Mediterranea (B440) if you want to have affordable lunch set menus here offer the option infused with tequila). And there’s al it all: tomato sauce, mozzarella, premium best value, and there’s a lavish à la carte pastor, spicy roast pork marinated in chilli parma ham, rocket salad, cherry tomatoes, menu too. However, if keen to splurge, we and pineapple. The quesadilla – good to parmesan, black olives, basil, oregano and recommend calling ahead to book a kai- share – is a large grilled tortilla sandwich of extra virgin olive oil. Combine this with an seki. Ten Sui’s specialty, these multi-course melted cheese, whole beans, salsa, guacaorder of tiger prawns (served with crunchy set menus can be customised to your mole, sour cream and choice of meat. The eggplant, anchovy brandade, and mesclun tastes and budget, and star a selection of guacamole is smoky and another nice touch salad with balsamic caramel and garlic chips, elaborate seasonal dishes that you’ve prob- is slightly fermented jalapenos on the side. B340), and then satisfy those sweet crav- ably never heard of, let alone tried. Think Drinks are Latin-style mojitos, beers, marings with the crispy chocolate and almond touyama kaki dohfu (savoury clear soup garitas and caipirinha, but corkage is free if flavoured cake (B140), a delicious contrast with oyster and egg dumplings, white tree you want to take something different. of soft mousse and vanilla ice-cream with a jellyfish and mitsuba honewort), or sim- อาคารมหาทุนพลาซ่า ถ.เพลินจิต crisp, biscuit-like base. mered tilefish stuffed with grated yam and garnished with edible Chrysanthemum. พิซซาโซ่ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ.16 Accompanying these intricate works of culinary art is one of the city’s premium
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 7 3
FOOD & DRINKS
wine connection Winebar review by David Swartzentruber
– making wine affordable – There has been a recent flurry of local and international media attention on the proliferation of wine bars in Bangkok. However, most of these stories seem to neglect the nasty little detail that thanks to the protectionist tax policies of the Thai government, imported as well as local wines are priced out of range for most Thai consumers. One of the UK’s leading wine magazines, Decanter, in an online story about Thailand’s wine market stated, “After import taxes, municipality tax, health tax and value added tax, the total effective duty and tax burden on a bottle of French wine is over 380%.” What is the Thai government protecting? The domestic spirits industry, of course. This policy is not good for the country’s health and runs contrary to the global trend for adult beverages with moderate alcohol levels. Thailand is the sixth largest spirits consuming country in the world with a per capita consumption of whiskey of more than 7 litres per capita. In spite of this dreary situation for wine in Thailand, over the last decade, one firm, Wine Connection, has been successful at reinvigorating Thailand’s wine market through innovative marketing and savvy pricing.
In the middle of the last decade, Wine Connection began to embrace marketing wine in conjunction with food. And since 2009 Wine Connection has ventured even further into the dining experience by opening five “Deli & Bistro” outlets in the Kingdom. The first in Bangkok was opened in K-Village, Sukhumvit 26 in 2010 and has become a lively, popular place for casual dinner and drinks. And the latest expansion is at lifestyle mall Rain Hill on Sukhumvit 47. A Friday evening visit to this sprawling 'Tapas Bar & Bistro' with a glassed-in tropical vibe, a DJ and a wide-ranging tapas menu definitely suggests that the concept is pulling in the under-30s crowd. There is a common misconception in Thailand that wine is only for the wealthy, especially farangs, but blink your eyes here and that myth will be destroyed. Here a nice glass of wine can be found in the B100-B200 range and bottled wines for B750, B900, B1200 and higher.
The usual markup for wine at the restaurant level is about three times but Wine Connection has changed that policy. At the K-Village outlet wines are sold at the retail price, while at Sukhumvit 47 there is a mere 20 to 25 % markup. With this cost-cutting approach having caught on, no wonThe usual method for a distributor here is to sell its prod- der wine sales increased by 110 % here last year. ucts to stores owned by someone else, but when Frenchโครงการเรนฮิลล์ สุขุมวิท 47 man Michel Trocherie arrived in Thailand in 1999, he set up getting there his own wine importing operation and began selling these imports through his own Wine Connection stores. This wine connection Tapas Bar & Bistro [MAP3 / P 6] pioneering alternative model resulting in lower wine prices 1st F, Rain Hill | Sukhumvit 47 | BTS Phrom Phong has proved so popular that Wine Connection now has 34 02-261-7217 | www.wineconnection.co.th facebook: wineconnectiontapasbarbistro | 10 am –1 am stores in Southeast Asia with more on the way. 74 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
F ood & D rinks | W ine R eview
Jim
Restaurant
Open Nightly 7 pm until 11 pm Jim Thompson House and Museum
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel 66 2612 3601 www.jimthompson.com
The Bugs are Back!
The Maine lobster, called a ‘bug’ affectionately by lobster fisherman, are in season and our boats are coming in! Come and join us for an amazing value LoBsTer FeasT! WhoLe Maine LoBsTer WiTh aLL Fixing’s 799 B LoBsTer Linguini, WhiTe Wine, garLic BuTTer 599 B LoBsTer Bisque, WhiTe cognac 180 B
TheseaFoodBar | 41 Somerset Lake Point, Sukhumvit Soi 16, klongtoey, Bangkok | 02-663 8863 www.theseafoodbar.info, info@seafoodbar.info | convenient parking available, Sunday – Saturday 6 pm – 11 pm bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 7 5
VALTINHO ANASTACIO live at Brown Sugar (review on p.80)
Nightlife NEWS One-off DJ nights Acknowledged as one of the world's most influential hip hop and electro funk DJs, Afrika Bambaataa is at Q Bar on May 5. It's B800 for entry and two drinks.
one night in Bang kok
For four years online radio network Underground Bangkok (www.ubradio.net) has been streaming upfront live DJ mixes, and to celebrate they’re staging a shindig at Bed Supperclub on Sunday May 6. Headlining in the bar room will be the UK based breakbeat producer and DJ Lee Coombs, while the white room will feature drum and bass from Sabre (Metalheadz), DJ Amnesty, De Lorean and Orawan. Two deal sweeteners: there’ll be an open bar between 10 –11 pm, and the day after is a public holiday. B 600 entry includes two drinks. Billed by the venue as “the most innovative cutting edge dubstep/bass music around”, Goth Trad and Greg G arrive at Club Culture (089-497-8422, www. club-culture-bkk.com) all the way from Tokyo on May 12. B550 gets you in the door, and one drink to get you started. Also on May 12, the third Bangkok Boat Party (081-887-1032) will see drum and bass heads hopping to British DJs Lazcru and Mischief while they cruise up and down river. Tickets, B900, are limited to 200 and include two drinks. And on May 17, James Zabiela, a former winner of DJ Magazine’s Best British DJ award who’s known for his technical prowess, will be bringing his blend of house, tech-house, techno, melodic soundscapes and breaks to Bed Supperclub. RSVP via the Facebook page and you’ll pay B600 and get two drinks. Asobi Seksu Live Local art and design blog collectives The World May Never Know and the Coconut Project are bringing New York dream pop duo Asobi Seksu to Sonic (p.88) on May 9. Featured in various television shows, their music draws influence from the shoegazing genre and has an effects-heavy vocal and guitar sound. Support is from local bands Slow Reverse and Stylish Nonsense, and there’ll also be an after-party. Doors open 7pm; tickets are B800 in advance or B1,000 on the door. Find out more, including how to book tickets, at www.facebook.com/theworldmayneverknow. HomeVideo and www.facebook.com/coconutproject.
Nightlife
Brown Sugar jAZZ PUB Live music review by Max Crosbie-Jones
– it's a jazzy thing – In some ways the new Brown Sugar isn’t that different to the old one. Every night of the week, local and international musicians still perform in front of a mural of Louis Armstrong tooting his trumpet and the hallowed blues bar’s neon signage. The stage is still small, with just enough room to squeeze five, maybe six musicians on it (as long as the trombonist doesn’t sway around too much and send the singer flying).
Six house bands fill up the week, including the very tight Brown Sugar Jazz Band (Mon – Sat 9 – 12 pm) and Zao Zadung (Fri – Sat 11:15 pm – 12:45 am). On the last Friday or Saturday of each month they also showcase an international act that’s passing through; the latest: Indonesians Dira Sugandi, a singer who has worked with Incognito, and pianist Dwiki Dharmawan. Sunday nights between 10 pm and midnight feature one-off guest performers too.
Apart from the sounds and stage though, this reincarnation of Bangkok’s 27-year-old sanctuary of jazz and blues is a totally different proposition from its predecessor. While the original on Sarasin Road was borderline rundown, the new Brown Sugar has a slick, cosmopolitan jazz café vibe. It’s exterior is impressive, resembling, with its huge neon signage and manual readerboard, a glamorous old cinema house.
Backing up the blues is a huge food selection ranging from Asian-influenced dishes to straight up Thai and beer snacks. New additions include pasta fusion dishes, fish and chips, and Kurobata steak with wasabi sauce. The libations are wide-ranging too, with Heineken on tap, imported beer bottles such as San Miguel and Corona in addition to local ones, and whisky sets and bottles of Jacob’s Creek available. None of it is as cheap as you might think, but between And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, happy hour (Sun – Thu 5 – 8 pm) they do offer 20 % off. a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and, past a long brick tunnel, the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant. A polished, world-class joint, one that would work just as Here, raw concrete ceilings lend an industrial feel, exuber- well in Camden Town as here in the Old Town, Brown Sugar ant jazz album covers and festival posters line the brick is back and there’s absolutely no reason to feel blue about it. walls, and out back is a smoking room and terrace that บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ.พระสุเมรุ backs on to the Khlong Mahachai canal. Dim, colourful and cool, it’s easy on the eye and, with good acoustics, the ear. getting there
BROWN SUGAR [map 7 / J 5] 469 Phrasumen Rd, Banglamphu | 089-499-1378 www.brownsugarbangkok.com | 5 pm – 1 am 7 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
N ightlife | C lubs
Nightlife
BED SUPPERCLUB
Demo
route 66
DEMO [map 3 / R 1] check Glow’s cool website. Thong Lor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 23 clubs BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970 8 pm – 1 am | free INSOMNIA [Map 3 / F 7] Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish BED SUPPERCLUB [map 3 / C 4] Sukhumvit Soi 12 (between Times Sq and Thong Lor area is Demo: a squat former 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 Soi 12) | BTS Nana / Asok www.bedsupperclub.com | 7:30 pm – 1 am tenement building turned graffiti daubed www.clubinsomniagroup.com brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and With its uber-modern oval spaceship In this busy after-hours joints, LED lasers design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely success- bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, spin and twirl around a huge main room ful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining not only does it look like a venue you’d with a giant disco ball at its centre, and on what may be the world’s largest sofas find in East London or some other hipster- DJs spin electro house out of a throbbing on one side, and an adjoining bar on the ville. It sounds like one, too: instead of the mounted speaker system. Some shady ladies other. For the past eight years, Bed has usual mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, and their hangers-on do head here (do we attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house need to spell it out?), but unlike most of the à-la-page white interior is definitely a place and electro through a kicking sound-system. competition Insomnia is not wall-to-wall to see and be seen. The food is world-class เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ. 10 swarming with them. Guys pay slightly more on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek than the girls: B300. design extends to an all-white bar on the Funky Villa [MAP 3 / R 1] อินซอมเนีย ซ. สุขุมวิท 12 club side. Bed has talented resident DJs Thong Lor Soi 10 | BTS Thong Lor and brings over top-notch talent (including 08-5253-2000 | 6 pm – 2 am MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [map 4 / h 4] some very eclectic art) for special events. The name Funky Villa conjures images of B1 F, President Tower Arcade Big-name DJs tend to spin on Thursdays, roller-blading babes in bikinis, all party- (next to Gaysorn Plaza), 973 Ploenchit Rd house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, ing at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the www.mixx-discotheque.com and Sunday mixes 1980 ’s pop hits with Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way B 350 | 10 pm until late house music. through the fairground-sized car park, past Most of Bangkok’s after-hours clubs are the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and slightly dodgy affairs, tucked away at the เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more back of car parks or squalid backstreets. posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded But Mixx, in the basement of an annex of CLUB CULTURE [map 7 / J 7] youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls the Intercontinental Hotel, is a bit classier. Ratcha Damnoen Klang Rd around in the front room; but most hit the Inside it’s more sophisticated than the (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall) 089-497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the competition too: a dimly lit, two-room week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. affair with chandeliers and paintings hangWed – Sat 8 pm – late Club Culture comes from the same brains Forget edgy sounds – here it’s all about ing here and there, and billowing sheets behind the city’s annual dance music festi- clinking whisky glasses and getting down on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. A mix of banquettes, stools and tall tables val, Culture One. After being evicted from with the CEOs of tomorrow. surround its two heaving dancefloors, one its original home, a former Thai theatre on ฟังกี้ วิลล่า ทองหล่อ ซ.10 playing commercial R&B and hip hop, the Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this gritty other banging techno and house. Expect a four-storey warehouse hidden away in the GLOW [Map 3 / G 5] flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful backstreets of the Old City in early 2010, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 much to the relief of its regulars – a cross- BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price is B350 for guys cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning www. glowbkk.com | 6 pm – 1 am expats. Like the old days they promote new This boutique club / bar challenges Bang and B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, talent, while still bringing in the big guns, kok’s biggies when it comes to delivering as long as things go smoothly, the ability to ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, innovative music from the world of under- make whoopie until nearly sunrise. drum’n’bass and house music of all genres. ground electronic pleasures. An intimate, มิกซ์ ดิสโก้เทค กรุงเทพฯ ถ.เพลินจิต stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง funky seating, innovative lighting and a ROUTE 66 [Map 8 / Q 12] (หลังนิทรรศ์รัตนโกสินทร์) dramatic bar. The music palette changes 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop MRT Phetchaburi | www.route66club.com (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, B 200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais 8 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
N ightlife | clubs & H otel B ars
q bar
Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as its affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink).
Barsu
cm2
backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairy-tale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. Joining this premium finger food is a menu of creative cocktails priced at B 400 net, live music every Friday and Saturday from 10 pm, plus a slew of specials. Drinks between 5:30 – 8:30 pm on weekdays go for B 250 and include free hors d’ oeuvres, and ladies enjoy drinks for B150 net per glass each Wednesday from 9 pm.
เดอะคลับ ข้าวสาร
Q BAR [Map 3 / C 4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com 8 pm – 1 am รูท 66 อาร์ ซี เอ Long-standing, New York-style night spot รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 TAPAS [Map 5 / J 5] (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom vodka!) and its strong music policy, with CM2 [map 4 / D 5] 02-632-7982 | www.tapasroom.net big name international DJs leading the way. B1 F, Novotel Siam Square 8 pm – 2am Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi twelve years ago and is still going strong, 02-209-8888 | www.cm2bkk. com 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of with a flirty crowd every night and a recent 10 pm – 2 am the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s sub strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than maximalist style injection. Now, there’s also terranean party cave still packs them in 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent more room to dance and more lounge space, sixteen years after it first opened, especially house music and live, bongo-bangin’ per- especially at QUP, the more downtempo on weekends when it heaves with tourists cussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a upstairs area. Some relative solitude and a and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can 1980s disco looking (black and metal and whether lounging or dancing your tail off! usually be found up here and on the outdoor neon lighting rule) complex has lots of Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit- terrace, which is perfect for a breather, peo- lounging space facing the dancefloor, plus a or-miss (usually miss, it has to be said), but ple watching and a late evening snack (includ- sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, weekends are always hopping from about ing burgers brought over from the Firehouse and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainmidnights onwards. And if it’s not, there's restaurant opposite). In an inspired piece of stream all the way. DJs play what the crowd always the outside terrace: a great spot to marketing excellence, ladies get in free on wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B enjoy a few cocktails and some of the best Wednesday nights – and two free drinks! tune, while the rotating line-up of live bands people watching in town. The tipples are คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as mixed strong, and watching this soi’s comif every song is a potentially life-changing ings and goings an, erm, eye-opening expeaudition. International / Thai food and a rience to say the least. The B200 entry fee huge cocktail list is served, as is what they on Fridays and Saturdays includes a drink. hotel bars & clubs claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks 4 ทาปาส สีลม ซ. feature double shots for no extra charge. BARSU [map 3 / F 6, 7] Check out their Facebook page for news of THE CLUB [Map 7 / F 5] 1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit their popular monthly theme parties and 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 drinks promotions. 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan.com www.barsubangkok.com | 6 pm – 2 am รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ. 6 6 pm – 2 am | B 100 (incl. one drink) The informal yet sleek and minimally styled The walk-in crowd of young Thais and bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 8 1
Nightlife
W XYZ
leapfrog
red sky bar
ST. REGIS BAR [map 4 / G 7] visitors to give it a kiss. Diners who book 12th F, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel the space for private events can also take a Bars with views 159 Rajadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri dip in the outdoor whirlpool. 02-207-7777 | www.stregis.com รร.รามาดา อังคอร์ สุขุมวิท ซ.10 Mo – Fr 10 am – 1 am, Sat & Sun 10 am – 2 am Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic At 6:30 pm each day a butler struts out onto high-altitude bars (both indoor and LONG TABLE [Map 3 / H 8] the terrace of The St. Regis Bar, a saber in out- door) from where to survey 25th F, 48 Column Bldg | Sukhumvit Soi 16 one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the glittering skyline below … BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-302-2557-9 the other. He then flicks at the collar until www.longtablebangkok.com ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts AMOROSA [Map 7 / C 12] 11 am – 2:00 am gently out onto the terrace. Come for this, 4th F, Arun Residence Hotel Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawand stay for the view. Stretching along a plate 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd ing Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this imposglass window, the rectangle venue – with its (near Wat Po) | 02-221-9158 sibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas www.arunresidence.com | 6 pm – 1 am There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style communal dining table so long it makes a Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at open-air bar featuring balmy river breezmedieval banquet bench look positively sunset, even better on every second Sunday es, whisper-soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet petite. However, it’s what happens at the afternoon, when you can spy on the horse- cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showend of the room that propels this place racing with a fine malt whisky in hand. The stopper though is the view: perched on deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where special promotions come thick and fast the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, the long table ends, a tall plate glass winhere: Tuesdays is jazz night, with Johnnie guests gaze out from its balcony terrace dow and huge poolside patio, complete Walker Black Label for B1,990++ per bottle onto the Chao Phraya River and, on the with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, (7 – 11 pm); Wednesdays is two for one mar- far banks beyond, Wat Arun, the stunning you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails tinis (6 – 8 pm); and ladies get free Bellinis on Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and or new latitude wines with the best of Thursdays (6 – 9 pm). enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch it. Or come later, when amber floodlights of celebrities, models and power players; รร. เดอะ เซนต์ รีจิส กรุงเทพฯ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ make it glow against the night sky. hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – W XYZ [MAP 3 / D6] wide-screen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช Aloft Bangkok | 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 point. BTS Nana | 02-207-7000 Leapfrog [map 3 / F 7 ] อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 16 alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11 8th F, Ramada Encore Bangkok Smack bang in the centre of Sukhumvit par- 21 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | BTS Nana MOON BAR [Map 5 / K, l 8] tyland, the funky Aloft hotel is going after 02-615-0999 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok the club crowd craving warm-up cocktails www.ramadaencorebangkok.com 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 with W XYZ, their laidback lounge bar on The latest addition to the scores of venwww.banyantree.com | 5 pm – 1 am the lobby floor mezzanine. This colourful ues perfect for rooftop drinking sessions, This is one place that will get you closer to space featuring funky modular furniture, Leapfrog is a swank, lofty space where the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in colour changing glass pane floors, and lots you can sit back and nibble on delicious the urban Moloch from up-above in smart of vivid LED lighting has a talented mixolo- California-Asian cuisine, such as salmon surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is gist who specialises in ‘molecular’ cocktails bites with spicy dip, marinated "Bilbao" a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360° made using all manner of gels, powders, baby octopus, and mozzarella cheese views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned foams and spray mists. More reasons to balls. In line with its Californian cuisine, the into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occuswing by W XYZ include decent finger interior and exterior was designed by San pied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your foods and Thai-style tapas, the happy hours Franciscan designer Kevin Christison. You'll view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s (50% off select drinks and snacks between find playful reptilian details throughout the the perfect spot for honeymooners – take 5 – 7:30 pm daily), and, for the budding DJs bar and restaurant, from cute and practical a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a among you, Tuesday’s Pod Play session, metal frog purse hangers to a giant dinasour classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail when you get to pump your own iPod egg light fixture inside the restaurant. Just and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, through the speakers. outside the restrooms a princely frog com- the telescope and binoculars come in handy. plete with a jeweled crown tempts female Glamour girls and unwinding business guys รร.เอลอฟท์ แบงคอก 8 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
N ightlife | B ars
feel right at home here, too. Stay until the Mount temple. The booze and Thai food High fliers hankering after a taste for the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, is also cheap as chips, as is most of the dramatic can head over to The Dome at take in the light jazz – and never ever forget modern art hanging on the second floor. State Tower. Among the world’s highyour camera. Tried to find it before but failed? You est outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoรร.บันยันทรี ถ.สาทรใต้ end of Khao San Road, turn right onto ramic views of the city and river below, Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down earning its popularity with visitors new NEST [Map 3 / C 4] the first soi on your left hand-side. In the to the City of Angels and those intent on 9 th F, Le Fenix | 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 evenings there’s usually at least one vintage rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyondVW beetle parked outside. www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5 pm – 2 am premium liquor and The Dome’s signature Nest is the rooftop bar of choice for พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำ�เนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seaSukhumvit’s international party crowd. An food eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor RED SKY [Map 4 / F 3] another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, it’s a loungey 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld floors. These places are definitely not spots and laid-back spot on weekdays and early Rama 1 Rd | BTS Chit Lom / Siam for the casual beach bum, so be sure to evenings, with couples enjoying signature 02-100-1234 leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at martinis and upmarket bar food from the www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5 pm – 1 am home – a strict smart casual dress code is comfort of Thai-style swing beds and NestCircling the 56th floor turret of Central- enforced. Given this policy, then, you might shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a World’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, think it somewhat ironic that the venue feamore up-for-it crowd ascends, especially the al fresco Red Sky offers city panoramas tured recently in the gross-out American during special party nights. These include in every direction. Just before sunset is the comedy hit, The Hangover Part II. MODE, a shindig every second Saturday time to come – plonk yourself down on a สเตททาวเวอร์ สีลม of the month that pumps hip-hop and rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait house beats rather than the usual smooth for the lightshow to begin. When daylight Balearic sounds. What are the views alike, fades to black, and the city lights up like a you ask? With buildings looming above circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and BARS you, not below you, here you feel part of Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. the cityscape rather than detached from it. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby เลอฟินิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 back pork ribs, and martinis, cocktails and BARLEY BISTRO [map 5 / H 5] wines are on hand to keep you company 4st F, Food Channel | Silom Rd, PHRANAKORN BAR [map 7 / G6] while your eyes roam the scenery. Daily between Soi 5 and 7 | BTS Sala Daeng Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen happy hours (50 % off selected wines, 087-033-3919 | www.barleybistro.com Rd. | 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am beers and cocktails between 5 – 7 pm) and 5 pm – late When backpacker ghetto Khao San Road prompt, smooth service make the experi- This multi-level resto-bar, hidden up some stairs within an enclave of franchise-like reswears thin (and it will) flee in search ence all the more enjoyable. taurants, is one very slick, snazzy spot. The of this multi-level boozer only a five รร.เซ็นทาร่าแกรนด์ แอท design is chic (blacks and greys, white-onminute walk away. It’s an old favourite of เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.พระราม 1 black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee local art students and creatives, mostly mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playSKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5 / C 5] new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the list and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop 63rd F, State Tower | 1055 Silom Rd clientele wholesome (Thai office workers offering splendid views, over rickety old02-624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com mostly). Do check out the open-air roofcity rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden 6 pm – 1 am top. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars
bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 8 3
Nightlife
clouds
face bangkok
hyde & seek
with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by build- CLOUDS [ Map 3 / Q 2] from the snack menu instead. And have ings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge 1st F, SeenSpace | 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, another Japanese Slipper. bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lo เฟซแบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.38 and perfect for post-work/pre-club cock- 02-185-2365 | www.cloudslounge.com tails. Live bands play in the bar most nights. Having shaken up Thonglor's bar scene FAT GUT’Z [map 3 / Q 2] with his first two concoctions, Iron 264 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม Fairies and Fat Gut'z, his third is as 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz.com we've come to expect, something entirely 6 pm – 2 am CAFÉ TRIO [map 4 / H 6] unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there A place to see and be seen, this sleek saloon 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | BTS Chit Lom are no more natural resources’, this slim is packed nightly with a crowd of beautiful 02-252- 6572 | 6 pm – 1 am, closed on the concrete shell at the rear of Thong Lor’s people, there to listen to live blues, indulge 2nd and 4th Sun of the month SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked with lumps of translucent leaf-encasing catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, down a narrow alley just off the upmar- acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the already legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his ket residential street, this cozy jazz bar (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious & art gallery is a welcome alternative Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technisense of whimsy – here, the random fitto Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty cians’ in white overalls, and later on a DJ tings and industrial decor are replaced by lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. spins acid jazz while a female dancer sits straight lines and black-coloured, modern Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, atop one of the blocks, calmly polishing her furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until the lighting delightfully soft, the music gun and blowing bubbles. They also serve you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought always subdued. The vivacious owner and tasty misshapen pizzas, which are cooked in master New York mixologist Joseph bartender Patti holds court nightly and has in a gas-oven and served in steel trays. Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 plastered the walls with her Modigliani- It’s not yet a big crowd-puller, but the result each), all named – and here’s the rub – after esque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have is enjoyably bizarre: part ultramodern mau- famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find soleum to nature, part space-station drink- theme loosely ties in with the short menu, yourself taking one home. To find it, look ing hole. from which the most popular order is, of for the Chinese restaurant across from คลาวด์ โครงการการซีสเปซ course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one perStarbucks and head 50 m down the road. son, B600 for two). Made from an old famซ.ทองหล่อ 13 ily recipe, it comes served in a wooden tub, คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน turning a takeaway staple into finger food. FACE BANGKOK [ Map 3 / S 7] Tucking in as we listened to the blues band 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | BTS Thong Lo CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3 / D 6] play on the tiny stage, and observed the hi02-713-6048 | www.facebars.com Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana so crowd sipping politely on their aquatic11:30 am – 1 am 02-253-4648 | Mon – Sat 5 pm – midnight inspired cocktails, it was obvious that this This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visubar is an unusual, albeit successful blend of the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar ally stunning complex is reminiscent of ingredients. to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s buildings and thriving flora, it’s just big- แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55 draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tour- ger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit ists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and place that summons deluxe drinkers with HYDE & SEEK [Map 4 / L5] pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee eat and party – though don’t be surprised giant cocktails. Though often empty, the BTS Phloen Chit | 02-168-5152 if you end up here all night. Its location is big drink list will stop your body clock www.hydeandseek.com | 11 am – 1 am a winner, situated as it is on a cool little pretty fast. The three restaurants – Hazara This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadSubsoi (first on the left as you walk down serving Northern Indian, Misaki serving ringer for those chic London haunts that Japanese, and Lan Na Thai serving tradi- draw the after-work crowd for pick-mefrom Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants tional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; up cocktails and good food that doesn’t and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok they’re romantic and inviting, but you might break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub. be let down by the tiny portions, and the Kittichai, the brains behind the successชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก) flamboyant prices. Stay in the Bar and order ful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while 8 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
N ightlife | B ars
Marshmellow
oskar bistro
the iron fairies
the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas. In sum, Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the huge market for high quality drinks and food at middle prices. It's busy with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.
veg (B 550) – it could, with a little tweak- and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws ing, become their forte. Marshmallow is an a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts affordable and brilliantly located (in Soi 11 and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popuclubber terms) spot for drinks and bites. lar Thai favourites, but the bar offers you มาร์ชเมลโล่ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, OSKAR BISTRO [map 3 / D 5] Sheeva Wop; a must try. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ 02-255 3377 | 4 pm – 2 am; kitchen open till 11:30 pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low TUBA [Map 8 / S 1 4] ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; 34 Room 11 – 12A, Soi Cham Chun and, with a dominant central bar, it’s per- (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02-711-5500 haps more brasserie than bistro. A venue www.design-athome.com | 11 am – 2 am for all seasons, with tables jammed, inside Some come to this two-storey furniture and out, and brown paper menus that set store to snag a comfy sofa, vintage sign or a tone of streetsy nonchalance where any- goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี one might feel at home. The food choice menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger for the local palate. But for us, Tuba works MARSHMALLOW [map 3 / C 5] (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a best as a bar, as the unusual setting and 33/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana section of cocottes (French-style individual generous Happy Hour (buy one get one 02-254-1971 | Facebook: Marshmallow dishes slow cooked and served in the same free between 5 -8 pm daily) mean there 11 am – 1 am You’d expect the first bar by one of pot). Almost all are under B300, which really are few cooler places in town to Bangkok’s best known DJs, long-time Bed for food of this surprising quality is a steal. kick back after work with a sweet cockSupperclub resident Fred Jungo, to be a Most people come here though not for the tail in hand (or two hands in some cases loud, pumping house, but that’s not the food but for a pre-club libation or two: be it – the glassware can be that big!). Owned case. “I don’t want Marshmallow to be one glass of wine (start at B145 a glass), import- by the same hoarders behind Lad Phrao of those bars where the DJ gets more and ed bottle beer, or reasonably priced cock- furniture warehouse Papaya, it features more carried away until customers can’t tail. Close to Bed Supperclub and Q Bar, its room upon room of haphazardly arranged hear themselves speak,” he says. Occupying own ambient, loungey sounds crank up as eye-candy, all of which you’re free to skulk the corner building where Soi 11 turns the night matures, and – although there’s through at your leisure. A word to the wise: left towards Q Bar, the space has a raised no dance space – many of the mixed Thai- one cocktail too many and you may leave terrace that wraps around its perimeter, farang crowd are happy to linger. It’s a good with more than you bargained for. Another beside tall steel and glass doors that are meal and drinks option for a date or busi- caveat worth bearing in mind: smokers are fully retractable. To evict the ghosts of ven- ness, but also a lively pick-up joint without allowed to puff away at Tuba, and many tures past (previous incarnations Diva and the pressure of full-on dress-to-kill. Book seem to come here to do just that. ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21) Welfare were both dismal failures), they ahead if you want a table. gutted the interior. Dark wood-planks line ออสการ์ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 the walls and pillars; there’s a mezzanine; THE IRON FAIRIES [Map 3 / Q 2] a mirror and metalwork-backed bar; and ROLLING BAR [Map 7 / J 5] 394 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), a bohemian touch, bird cage lamps, dan- Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 Thong Lor Soi 12 | BTS Thong Lo gling over the tables at one end. Cocktails Mon – Sat 6 pm – 2 am 084-520-2301 | www.theironfairies.com come in at a very reasonable B190; cham- A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning pagne and sparkling cocktails B 220; local beckons you to find out what is going on iron foundry – yes, you can actually buy the beers B90. “Food was never meant to be below the street line. Descend a few stairs eponymous iron fairies themselves – that the focus,” Fred told us. However, judging and in a quiet corner by the water you will just happens to serve booze. Drawing by the dishes we tucked in to – three Fine find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled heavily from the steampunk genre, it has de Clares (B 290) with condiments, a bright with a mixed assortment of retro decor the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a and fresh haloumi cheese salad, a slab of and various model Cadillac cars. Here, Terry Gilliam film-set. Walls are daubed Australian tenderloin with mash and boiled every night you can hear familiar old folk black, silent movies are projected on the bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 8 5
Nightlife
SHADES OF RETRO
WTF
VIVA AVIV
walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours Silom – and watch the night unfold. by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails the tables, and Doris Day classics are วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual belted out from the cast-iron spiral stairbitters in the mix, while plates of tapas case. Beers start from B 120 a bottle, a well consist of Thai and Euro choices such as VIVA AVIV [map 5 / C2] mixed dirty martini goes for B 280 and the Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect River City – Unit 118 | 23 Trok burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopoccasional live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 ping board with a steak knife, divine. The and a mix of indie hipsters, journos and art02-639-6305 | www.vivaaviv.com moneyed Thong Lor set fill it nightly. scensters to chew the fat with. 11am – midnight, later on weekends ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ. 51 bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not SHADES OF RETRO [Map 8 / s 1 4] only does it have the bar tables and stools Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | BTS Thong Lo jutting across a pleasant riverside prome081-824-8011 | 3 pm – 1 am | cash only nade, inside there’s also a hip designer inte- LIVE MUSIC Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of rior in full effect. Think tropical maritime Retro is a hidden Thong Lor spot awash in chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. In the Performances by top international neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage fur- main room, pulleys hang over the central bands might be thin on the ground here, niture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. bar made of salvaged wood, yards from a but there are a clutch of venues where A combo furniture store-café, Shades huge mounted moose's head. And the oth- decent live music can be heard. Much, provides a quiet hangout for the writer/ er, with its leather sofas, rusting anchors and if not all of it, is world-class. designer/artiste crowd by day, fun people- other nautical knick-knacks, could pass for TH watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Jaco Sparrow's front room (if he had one). ADHERE the 13 [Map 7 / G 3] Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the for this rustic look, the bar is being looked 089- 769-4613 | 5 pm – midnight atmosphere, which flirts with being too after by the cocktail designers behind Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their coolest hangouts is nothing more than an and bracing cocktails or coffee served up ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully. underpinned with rum (tequila is so last instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find year, apparently), come in slightly cheaper on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for เฉดส์ ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมย์ 2 ทองหล่อ than over at Hyde & Seek, B250. Weekly the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road specials go for B199, along with wine by the (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this WONG’S PLACE [Map 8 / L 17] glass, during the daily 4-8pm happy hours. down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Soi Ngam Duplee, Food tip: the risotto-filled croquet balls ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini with yoghurt dip are a must. Keep an eye expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk 02-286-1558 | Mon – Sat 10 pm – late on their Facebook page for news of new when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in specials and 'Kolour Sundays', their shades- churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis business. It’s not near any public transport; Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues down and racuous Sunday DJ barbeques. opens when it wants, closes when it wants; Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops อาคารริเวอร์ซิตี้ เจริญกรุง ซ.30 would never sing Hotel California. in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer แอดเฮีย 13 ถ.สามเสน บางลำ�ภู fridges and is not much bigger than a liv- WTF [Map 3 / Q 6] ing room. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lo BRICK BAR [Map 7 / G 6] crowd of expat journalists, English teachers, 02- 626-6246 | www.wtfbangkok.com 265 Khaosan Rd | 02-629-4477 hipsters, creative Thais and professional Tue – Sun 6 pm – 1 am / gallery from 3 pm barflies who have been coming here for This tiny shophouse – signposted by graf- www.brickbarkhaosan.com years and regard owner Sam as a kind of fiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street Mon – Sun 7 pm – 1am | Mon – Thu free / benevolent dictator, knowing better than opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, Fri – Sat B150 incl. one drink to take advantage of the beer fridges hon- decked out with mirrors along one wall, Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge our system. Come before midnight and it’s old Thai movie posters on the other, and shopping arcade, this dark and airy redusually pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at found items like wooden screen doors and brick vault features benches downstairs, an the wong time?). Come after the other bars chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners upstairs terrace for people or band watchclose – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from (an art manager, hotelier and photographer ing and plenty of nooks and crannies to par8 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Nightlife
BRICK BAR
RAINTREE PUB
Sonic
ty in. A magnet for young live music lovers, RAINTREE PUB [Map 8 / K 10] eigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, it’s jumping most nights of the week with 116 / 63 - 34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd wood-filled floors. Each night, two talented fresh-faced twentysomethings out to catch BTS Victory Monument Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk 02-245-7230, 081-926-1604 and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty and blues bands, many of whom play their www.raintreepub.com | 5 pm – 1 am own material. Perfect for friends who’ve This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of Thai and Western fare. All the local live just hit town, expect to be clinking whisky all-wooden, pre-consumerist age time- music scene greats have played here and capsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing many still pop by when they can. glasses with new friends all night. Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once แซ๊กโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท บริคบาร์ ถ.ข้าวสาร phenomenally popular 1970’s folk protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politiSonic [MAP 3 / T 2] COSMIC CAFE [Map 8 / Q 12] cally disaffected. On a stage decorated with RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, 90 Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café two artists strum nightly: a long-haired BTS Ekamai | 02-382-3396 serves a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30 pm, facebook: sonic.ekamai | 6 pm – 2 am Hip, mural-splattered Sonic is dedicated to a grungy, open-sided corner bar with out- a grizzled band steps up at around 11 pm. bringing you assorted musical jollies. Not door seating and a small dance floor. On Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 the same old Thai bands or David Guetta one night you might the place jumping, as years ago and has changed little since. And wannabes, but nights that sit at the more the Paradise Bangkok DJs host a rare live why should she? The people are friendly, alternative end of the spectrum, with a performance by mor lam legend Dao the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the tilt toward the indie side. There’s a big Bandon. On another a house band dish- music, made famous by household names semi-outdoor seating area with DJ booth, like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring. ing out some surf guitar, ska, electronica an indoor bar and deeper in is the main or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it เรนทรีผับ ซ.ร่วมจิต ถ.รางน้ำ� room. On quieter nights stools and tables draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, fill this high-ceilinged, warehouse-like space from skinny jeaned art-school hipster types PARKING TOYS [MAP 2 / G5] with a bar in one corner and funky brass to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must. lamps dangling overhead, but for gigs and 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin other crowd-pullers they strip it bare. Since Highway, Bang Khen คอสมิค คาเฟ่ อาร์ซีเอ opening, Sonic has blasted its way into the (pier 135-136 on left hand side) affections of the city’s hard-to-please nightLat Phrao district | BTS Mo Chit THE ROCK PUB [Map 4 / C 2] life clans with a string of unusual live gigs, (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6 pm – 1am 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phaya Thai Rd, Inside this ex-garage out in the northern including mor lam legends Wong Dontri (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi suburbs it’s pure sensory overload. Wall- Molam Theppabut and US indie shoegazers www.therockpubbangkok.com to-wall retro furniture becomes instant The Pains of Being Pure at Heart. See their 9:30 pm – 2 am eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery Facebook page for the next. If Def Leppard, Aerosmith or Wayne and dangle from the ceiling. Here, there is a โซนิค ซ.เอกมัย (ระหว่าง ซ.10 และบิ๊กซี) Garth were in town you’d find them relivband for every alternative music lover; in ing the glory years here, at Bangkok’s very just one weekend night you can catch regown Castle of Rock. A tacky faux-turret gae, electronic, rockabilly, and metal. It’s a TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2 /E11] exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS hike and not easy to find, but worth it. 462 / 61 Rama III Rd | Yan Nawa district Station, makes you wonder what kind 02- 678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์ The one place that every taxi driver seems stumbled on, while inside local metal to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out SAXOPHONE PUB [Map 8 / K 10] packs in the revelers nightly. They come note-perfect renditions of everything from 3 / 8 Phaya Thai Rd for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the BTS Victory Monument | 02-246-5472 Black Sabbath to Sweet Child O’Mine and Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially Motorhead's Ace of Spades. Fans of the www.saxophonepub.com | 6 pm – 2 am the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), extended drum interlude or lightening fast Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, and, not least, the famous Fong Nam guitar solo will not be disappointed – or unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by able to resist doing the Devil’s Horn. when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk เดอะ ร็อคผับ Attracting youngish Thais and the odd for- krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, 8 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
N ightlife | L ive music & jazz clubs
brown sugar
Diplomat Bar
everybody is on their feet and the place visitors by night. There’s also be a 200-seat going bananas. Great for large groups, space on the second floor that can host art especially birthday parties and office out- exhibitions, film screenings, plays, poetry ings, but make sure you reserve ahead for readings, concerts and “whatever else you can think of ”. And a monthly ‘Brown Sugar the best tables nearest the stage. Showcase’ features live performances by โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3 international touring acts on the last Friday or Saturday of each month.
Jazz clubs
บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ.พระสุเมร
The Living Room
Room plays host to Alice Day alongside the Shawn Kelley Trio, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9 to 11:45 pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 pm to 12:15 am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตันแกรนด์ สุขุมวิท
Niu ’s on Silom [Map 5 / E5] DIPLOMAT BAR [Map 4 / K7] 2nd F, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 Click your fingers like a hepcat at one of Conrad Bangkok www.niusonsilom.com | 5 pm – 1 am the following respected live jazz venues. 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit This New York-style lounge – with its hot Some are all elegant and sultry, others as 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on raw and gritty as that old crooner's voice. Sun – Thu 6 pm – 1 am; Fri & Sat 6 pm – 2 am candlelit tables – has a house band with An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They BAMBOO BAR [Map 5 / B4] a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas provide the backbone for various internaThe Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Ave and an arresting chandelier hanging over the tional acts who perform regularly. There’s 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional Sun – Thu 11 am – 1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am – 2 am dominate this dark, contemporary, but concerts featuring established overseas This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, past glories of the East. Situated in one crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especomfortable for beers or brandy; and you of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, cially during the elongated, buyone-get-onecan eat bar snacks or dine formally in the the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophis- free Happy Hour from 4 – 7 pm (standard impressive Concerto Italian restaurant tication and style. Reminiscent of a tropi- drinks only). It's very hip among the diploupstairs. Outside seating also available. cal film noir-setting, it features a jungle matic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embastheme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry sies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main romantic and intimate – balanced by the attraction here is more aural than visual and Tokyo Joe’s [Map 3 / N8] legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong the stage here for ages. Monday through 02-661-0359; 087-925-4105 Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ 8 am – late / music Thu – Sun from 9 pm their current resident songstress, Cynthia When Tokyo Joe’s closed at the end of 2009 Utterbach. Everybody’s sipping on fault- THE LIVING ROOM [Map 4 / F6] it left a huge hole in the Sukhumvit blues scene, so there was much rejoicing when less cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school Sheraton Grande | 250 Sukhumvit Rd it reopened last October. Bands play on a bartenders and served by a superb staff. BTS Aso / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 stage at the back of the room and there's Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com 10 am – 12:30 am a forecourt out front with bar. Furnishings A definite big Bangkok must. Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxu- inside are sparse, with a few functional รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ.โอเรียลเต็ล ry hotel bars, the leather couches at The tables and, on the walls, posters of musiLiving Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get cians and events Tokyo Joe’s hosted in Brown Sugar [Map 7 / J 5] up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish the past, such as the annual Bangkok Blues 469 Phrasumen Road | 089-499-1378 place, and the usually middle-aged patrons Festival. The current line-up includes a www.brownsugarbangkok.com | 6 pm – 1 am live it up on great wines, champagne and rotating headliner on Fridays and the Soi Little over a month after it closed down, strong cocktails in a quiet way. The highDog Blues Band on Saturdays. Sundays is an one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz ven- ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for open jam session. The food menu includes ues was back with a new, bigger location the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to fancy items like duck confit and spaghetti near Khao San. Now a restaurant and be well-entertained. World-class talents al salmon as well as typical bar snacks like coffee house by day, it morphs into a live are booked in continuously, guaranteeing sandwiches, fries and Thai salads. jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and top-notch jazz and always a warm audiโตเกี ยว โจส์ สุขุมวิท ซ.26 ragtime draw an audience of locals and ence rapport. Throughout Feb, The Living bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 8 9
Nightlife
the crossbAr Pub review
Balcony humidor
cigar lounges Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar [map 4 / H 4] 1st F, InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 8 am – 1 am Club Perdomo Bangkok [Map 3 / O 7] 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 www.clubperdomobangkok.com 6 pm – midnight La Casa del Habano [Map 5 / B4] Mandarin Oriental | 48 Oriental Avenue 02-267-1596 | www.pacificcigar.com/eng/location Mon – Thu 10 am – 10 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 11 pm, Sun & public holidays noon – 6 pm | P&L Club [Map 4 / L 7] GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place 87 Wireless Rd | 02-685-3898 Mon – Thu 10 am – 10 pm, Fri – Sat 10 am – 11 pm, Sun noon – 6 pm
9 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
As the pun-inspired name suggests, this is a place where sport is king. If you’re less familiar with soccer lingo, then the sporting theme is spelt out by a glance at the walls. They are a shrine to athletic endeavour, filled with images of sporting legends – from retro photos of 1960’s footballers, to modern prints of the greats of motor sport, cricket and rugby. It’s not the largest pub around but, even with the dark wood finish, the place is still bright and airy. This is partly due to the very red cushions covering the benches and stools but also to the bar which is backed by a large window offering a glimpse of reality through the assorted spirits. Aside from three big screens for sports it also boasts the additional distractions of a pool table, free wi-fi, a good international/Thai menu and three draught beers on tap. It also has a nice lived-in feel, helped by the attentive staff and team of regulars. This is a pub that avoids own goals by rejecting fancy gimmicks in favour of a homely haven for sport fans to sup a pint and take in the match. เดอะครอสบาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23
getting there
the crossbar [map 3 / H 5] Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit 02-664-3399 | www.crossbarbangkok.com 11 am – midnight bangkok101.com
N ightlife | P ub C rawl
PUB Crawl
pubs 101 HANRAHANS [Map 3 / C 7] Sukhumvit Soi 4 l BTS Nana 02-255-0644-5 | 9 am – 1am JAMESON’S [Map 5 / D 5] Gr. F Holiday Inn Silom 981 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak 02-266-7703-5 | 10 am – 1 am MOLLY MALONE’S [Map 5 / J 5] 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-7160 9 am – 1 am
SILOM AREA
Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [ Map 5 / K5 ] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-toearth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [ Map 5 / K5] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowds of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, Molly Malone’s [Map 5 / J5] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5 pm – 9 pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. A short stroll down from the infamous Patpong stands basement boozer The Pinstman [Map 5 / J5] . Its look and feel is nothing you haven't seen before, but it does have good imported beer including Asahi, Guiness and Kilkenny on tap and lots of bottled Belgian brews. Jameson’s [Map 5 / D5] sat under the Holiday Inn is a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesday featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B 29 a glass.
SUKHUMVIT AREA
Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [Map 3 / L6] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L6], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. The Londoner [Map 3 / L6] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [Map 3 / K7], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [Map 3 / G6], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a pedestrian sub-street of Soi 11 lined with international restaurants is The Pickled Liver [Map 3 / C5]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [Map 3 / C7] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour. bangkok101.com
O’REILLYS [Map 5 /K 5] 62/1-4 Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-632-7515 | 9 am – 2 am The BARBICAN [Map 5 / K 4] 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-234-3590 | 11:30 am – 1 am THE BLACK SWAN [Map 3 / G 6] 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit 02-229-4542 | 8 am – midnight The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L 6] Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4444 11:30 am – 1 am BULLY’S [Map 3 / B 7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 2 / 4 BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 | 11 am – 1am THE DUBLINER [Map 3 / K 7] 440 Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-1841/2 9 am – 1 am THE LONDONER [Map 3 / L 6] Basement, UBC II Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-261-0238/9 | 11 am – 1am THE PICKLED LIVER [Map 3 / C 5] Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 | BTS Nana 02-254-3484 | 2 pm – 3 am THE PINTSMAN [Map 5 / J 5] United Center Blg., 323 Silom Rd, btw. Soi Convent / 3 | BTS Sala Daeng 089-012-9922 | 11 am – 1 am THE ROBIN HOOD [Map 3 / L 6] PB Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3390 10 pm – midnight M ay 2 0 1 2 | 9 1
From goddess to modest by Vickteerut Spring / Summer 2012
From goddess to modest
by Joy Sanyapongse
NEW COLLECTION: Vickteerut This scorching season, we salute Vickteerut Wongwatanasin for his superb style and stitches. His Vickteerut Spring-Summer 2012 collection illustrates an aristo cratic look that is modern, structured and delicate. Mostly constructed in solid blacks, whites, and soft neutrals, From Goddess to Modest reflects the more somber side of femininity. Sharp, precise edges and soft, translucent pieces make a brilliant yin-yang blend. Drawing inspiration from Greek and Roman architecture, skirts and tuxedo blouses are structured in crisp, pleated stitching. Rigid, corsetlike tops give the collection that ultra-feminine touch, with trousers and skirts constructed in sheer textures for that airy, ethereal look. However, these silhouettes are less than forgiving, we must note. Although not close-fitted, the overall look is quite petite, simple and “compact”. Its transparent textures and fitted strapless tops allow very little room for any fashion error. Great for confident damsels and perfectionists of sizes 0 to 2, we reckon. A graduate of Central Saint Martin’s, the famous London art college that some refer to as the Hogwart's of fashion design, Teerat emerged on the scene seven years ago, as a young up-and-comer at Thailand’s Elle Fashion Week. Since then his clothes have adorned many Bangkok celebrities and socialites, pretty much all of them in fact. Many would remark that his clothes look neat, benign and almost ‘dry’ looking. However, once worn, his work is proof that the ‘less is more’ philosophy is not mere hokum. He manages to combine masculinity and sensuality without it coming across as a corny contrivance. Moreover, he deliberately avoids the blurring of masculine and feminine, striving instead for a subtle mix of both elements that make his clothing elegant, subdued and, of course, modest. available at:
2 F, Central Chidlom | Phloen Chit Rd | 086-883-6004 nd
2nd F, CentralWorld | Rajadamri Rd | 087-971-9219 1st F, The Emporium | Sukhumvit Rd | 02-269-1000 1st F, Siam Paragon Mall | Rama I Rd | 087-971-9267
SHOPPING
mango mojito sole classics
Unique boutique
by Max Crosbie-Jones
S
hoes are not hard to find in this city, but a pair of dapper leather brogues or suede loafers that don’t fall to pieces after a few months is another story. However, this stylish, wood-floored hole-in-thewall – one of Siam Square Soi 2’s many blink and you’ll miss it shops – is an exception to the rule, a blessing for nattily dressed men.
“Classically inspired, high quality shoes” and “modern twists on men’s footwear” is how Mango Mojito, founded in 2009 by a group of like-minded designer friends, sums up its designs – and that’s pretty close to the mark. Be it pair of their limited edition canvas espadrilles or tassled suede boat shoes, all their products seem built to last, featuring "This woodquality materials and fine craftsmanship. And we’re not the only ones who think so: Mango Mojito have also impressed the buyers at Bangkok’s Siam Paragon and Central department stores, and have been experiencing such bullish business they’ve also opened stores in Malaysia and Singapore.
floored hole-inthe-wall is a blessing for nattily dressed men"
Our personal favourites: their dessert-style ankle boots made of suede or oil leather and available in fetching shades of dark khaki, saddle brown, dark green, black or tan. Nothing comes cheap here – prices range from B3,000 to B6,000 – but then again, it’s worth bearing in mind that shopping maxim ‘you get what you pay for’. Should you not find what you’re after, they also take custom orders. Like all of Mango Mojito’s output, these are made at their own factory. As seems to be the case with most standalone fashion labels these days, Facebook is the best way to keep track of what's currently in stock.
แมงโก้ โมจิโต สยามสแควร์ ซ.2
Mango Mojito [MAP 4 / C 5]
232/1 Siam Square Soi 2 (beside Thanachart Bank) BTS Siam | 02-252-5945 | www.mango-mojito.com facebook: mangomjt | 10 am – 10 pm Also stocked at the following department stores: Central Chidlom, Central Ladprao, Siam Paragon and ZEN @ CentralWorld
9 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Live vividly amidst world-class facilities. Immerse yourself in the truly vibrant lifestyle. Grande Centre Point Hotel & Residence Sukhumvit-Terminal 21 2, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 19 (Wattana), Sukhumvit Rd., North Khlong Toei, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 Telephone: +66 2 681 9000, Fax: +66 2 681 9100-1 Website: www.grandecentrepointterminal21.com
SHOPPING
Jatujak Market
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere The rest can go and get lost – literally.
Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire. ตลาดนัดจตุจักร 9 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover B1,950 The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com
S H O P P I N G | J J market
ERR-OR DESIGN
JJ Gem of the MOnth by Pattarasuda Prajittanond
If, rather than on the wall, you’ve always wanted to hang some of the Kingdom’s top graphic artwork in your closet, help is close at hand. Established in 2007, Err-Or Design is a cutting-edge Thai collective of graphic designers and people from the art world, who choose to print their creations on T-shirts (many of Thailand’s most famous contemporary artists have created signature Tees for the group). The name Err-Or comes from the informal Thai expression pronounced the same way that means ‘agree’ (เออ ออ). Costing B 490 each, even if you’re not famous, those with a unique style are also welcome to create a piece. Stylised polo shirts (B 590), cool bags (B1200), and graphic books (B 600) are also available at both the JJ and Siam Square locations (see web) for shoppers to complete their Err-Orstrewn looks.
Err-Or Design
Section 4, Soi 1 | 081-554-7288 www.err-orclothing.com | facebook: errordesign www.twitter.com/err_or_design
Soi
Antiques and Collectibles 1, 26 Art and Gallery 7 Books 1, 27 Ceramics 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 25 Clothing, Accessories 2 – 6, 10 – 26 Handicrafts 8 – 11 Food and Beverage 2 – 4, 23 – 27 Furniture, Decorations 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 Misc 2 – 6, 22, 25, 26 Pets and Accessories 8, 9, 11, 13 Plants and Tools 3, 4
JJ Mall
1 2 3 4
C
5 6
1
2
68
1
1
27
ha en gP he t4
19
17
15
13
23
9 61
16
14
12
60
18
21
22 55
56
23 54
24 53
52
25
26 51
50
48
49
28
29 47
6 Ka
mp
3
ha
g en
ph
et
3
Chatuchak Park
57
46
N
4
58
27
59
45
i6
2
18
20
19
t1
10 21
20
he
ngp
30
44
Clock Tower
22
31
So
62
hae
3
17
mp
43
7
8
11
32
42
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
20
16
Ka
41
Jatujak Information Service
64 5
22 33
H. M. Queen Sirikit Park
10
4
34
40
9
mp
37
2
8
65 3
39
7
D
A
66
25
24
k
11
2
26
38
cha
a
Ka
36
Soi
Kamphaengphet
C
u hat
z Pla
67
35
Ka
mp
n hae
gP
het
B
69
5 3
Phahon Yothin Mo Chit
bangkok101.com
Chatuchak
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 9 7
SHOPPING
DAMNOEN SADUAK [map 1 / D 6] Damnoen Saduak | Ratchaburi Province 7 am – noon (most crowded at 11am) 02-435-5031 or 434-5558 getting there by bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal ประตูน้ำ� every 40 minutes from 6 am Considered “the” floating market for Ratchada Night Market [map 8 / Q2] visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao 100km southwest of the capital is two intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek / hours by car or bus, plus a 15-30 minute Ladphrao | Fri & Sat Nights boat ride. Arrive before the horde of (busiest on Saturday) tourists descend upon the market at 9am Vendors at this teen-thronged Saturday flea – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded market flog retro and secondhand stuff, option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to water taxi from the pier on the east side of vintage. Flashlight essential. Khlong Thong Lang. ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา ตลาดน้ำ�ดำ�เนินสะดวก Ratchaprarop Rd | BTS Ratchathewi 9 am – 7 pm A short walk from CentralWorld, this teeming sidewalk is famed for its cheap bulk clothing deals on textiles, jeans and more.
Markets & SIDEWALKS
Silom Road / Patpong [map 5 / J, K 5] Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom 6 pm – late (2 am) Silom Road gets going between 6 pm and 2 am, when stalls catering to tourists set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong.
TALING CHAN [map 2 / A8] Khlong Chak Phra canal Taling Chan district | 8 am – 5 pm 02-424-5448 or 02-424-1712 getting there by bus: take bus # 79 or # 83 to Taling Chan district For a kinder, gentler introduction to the สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์ world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most Khao San Road [map 7 / F, g 5, 6] Sukhumvit Road [map 3 / D – g 6] tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok Kao San Rd | 4 pm – late governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to Every evening (except Monday) baby-faced Sukhumvit Rd (start around Sukhumvit entrepreneurs splay out their funky wares Soi 4, Nana) | BTS Nana / MRT Sukhumvit honour HM the King’s 60 th birthday, Taling Chan also offers live performances of all along the legendary budget traveler strip. 6 pm – late (2 am) The touristy trinkets and pirate DVDs start traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm, and ถ.ข้าวสาร around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on is lined with boats preparing and serving both sides of the major thoroughfare, and authentic Thai delicacies. The market only PAK KHLONG TALAD opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so stretch nearly to Soi 19. (Flower Market) [map 7 / E 14] make sure to plan accordingly. ถ.สุขุมวิท Chakphet Rd | Phra Nakorn ตลาดน้ำ�ตลิ่งชัน A round-the-clock hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around TALAT ROT FAI AMPHAWA [map 1 / D6] (THE TRAIN MARKET) [map 8 / L 3] the country. Kamphaeng Phet Rd | MRT Kamphaeng Amphawa | Sumut Songkhram province ปากคลองตลาด Phet | Sat & Sun 6 pm – midnight Fri 1 pm – 10 pm; Antique lovers and retro-mad hipsters flock Sat – Sun& holiday noon – 10 pm KHLONG THOM [map 6 / C, D 2] to this plot of State Railway department getting there by car: drive one hour south Cover Luang Rd, Worachak Rd, land to bargain for collectibles, reproduc- from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram. Suapa Rd and Charoen Krung Rd tions and vintage fashion. Even if you're out The market is nearby Wat Amphawan MRT Hua Lamphong | Sun 8 am – 6pm to shop, it's a great place to hang out. Jatiyaram Long before there was Ratchada or Talad Night owls can have a slice of floating marตลาดรถไฟ Rot Fai, there was Khlong Thom: the origiket action too. This one – only open Friday nal Saturday night flea market. to Sunday – sets up at 4Âpm, allowing the THEWET [map 8 / D 8] ตลาดคลองถม luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure Samsen Rd | 6 am – 7 pm is not often on the itineraries of the tourNot far north from the flower market is the ists who flock to the more famous marNAKHORN KASEM [map 6 / D, E 3] riverside plant market. The street is lined kets (although you'll find plenty of the Thai between Charoen Krung Rd and with small shops selling a wide selection of equivalent). The old wooden houses that Yaowarat Rd | MRT Hua Lamphong tropical potted flora. line its sides are treasure troves of cute Thai 9 am – 8 pm (some shop close on Sun) knickknacks, t-shirts, postcards and snacks. Known locally as the “thieves market”, this เทเวศน์ Make sure to take a boat down the canal smallish street-side market in Chinatown after dusk, when the lights from the riveroffers a curious blend of second-hand houses gleam and the fireflies come out to goods, the odd antique, and a random Floating markets play, especially during the rainy season. assortment of household appliances. While the fancy designer, air-conditioned malls of Siam grab much of the attention, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, there’s no better way to discover the local retail experience than by heading to one of the city’s many interesting markets or sidewalks.
นครเกษม Pratunam [map 4 / F 1] Between Phetchaburi Rd and 9 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose.
ตลาดน้ำ�อัมพวา
bangkok101.com
S H O P P I N G | M arkets
Market Focus
Ratchada Night Market
Vendors at this nighttime (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastelcoloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a torch and your bargaining skills. ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา
Ratchada Night Market [MAP 8 / Q 2]
parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao intersection MRT Ladphrao Fri – Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) 5pm – late night bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 9 9
WELLNESS
Hapa Spa
Spa 1930
Siri giraya spa
massages – including Thai, aroma, warm oil, Kong Chinese await their treatment in the hot stone, Balinese or Leyana’s Back Revival welcoming reception area (complete with a Massage & Spa – to get those kinks out. Most of the spa’s library), which feels so intimate that you’ll simple yet elegant treatment rooms fea- think you’ve entered a private residence. Bangkok probably offers more places to ture private Jacuzzis, and the traditional The list of treatments is very traditional – indulge in massage than any other Thai-style herbal steam rooms (think one- no fancy shmancy here, just good old spa city on earth. In each issue we help you person tee-pees) are a must. Just relax classics. The signature treatments are find the best rub-down for your baht, there’s no need to break the bank in order and concentrate on your rejuvenation or excellent, but you might be tempted into a detox. Owned and operated by a young marvelous four-hands massage or an herbal to get a good treatment. Thai woman who is mindful of the details, pack treatment. The handful of packages is Leyana is well worth the effort of getting quite respectable, too. Efficient therapists HAPA SPA [MAP 3 / B 4] to. Thankfully, the spa offers a complimen- work in softly lit, simply decorated rooms. 20/4 Sukumvit Soi 3 | BTS Nana tary shuttle service from the Thong Lo BTS A welcome surprise is the fact that no music 02-651-0966 | www.hapaspa.com is piped into the rooms so you can relax station. 10 am – 10 pm | $$ totally – or maybe nod off while listening to Wedged between multi-story condos and ลียาน่าสปา ทองหล่อ ซ.13 your own breathing. weirdish hotels, Hapa’s location stands out insofar as you’d never expect a professional MULBERRY SPA [MAP 5 / C 5] สปา 1930 ซ.ต้นสน ชิดลม spa in an alley off Afro-Arab Nana. A long, 346/10 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng / glass-walled building draws in the uniniti- MRT Silom | 02-630-9888 SIRI GIRIYA SPA [MAP 2 / H 11] ated through its unique circular entrance mulberryspa.com | 10 am – 10 pm | $$$ 4 Soi Sukhumvit 60 | BTS Bangjak and purple-tinged salon to metal boxes. Despite its labyrinthine layout, this often 02-741-5199 | www.sirigiriyaspa.com Inside your own private bunker, a stylish, booked-out spa still feels quite intimate. 10am-10pm (last appt. at 7:30pm) | $$ serene setting includes inspired mini gar- The lush reception is only the beginning Slipping into a steaming bath may be the dens, soft purple and cream tones and beds – seated in the neat “library”, you won’t last thing a traveler to hot and humid accommodating even the longest-legged mind waiting. Spread over two floors, each Bangkok may want to do – but then you’d Westerner. The extensive menu features homey room (they all come with their own be missing out on the joys of hydrotherapy, the signature aromatherapy massage, shower) is dotingly styled in a different Siri Giriya style. Popular among Japanese, organic body scrubs and other tasty-sound- way, but a slight Arabian atmosphere and for whom bathing is an art, this homey spa ing body delights, plus infrared thermal appealing ornaments pervade throughout. is set just behind an elegant koi pond near sauna, all executed by cheery, competent The owners take a refreshingly different the On Nut BTS station. Walk into the therapists. The all-natural house products approach to its service: therapists are not well-appointed room to find a tub overare for sale, just as is a wide selection of chosen for their looks but for their skills. flowing with fresh Thai herbs – plai, turorganic teas and healthy drinks. Service, The range of treatments is limited but all meric, ginger, countless others – the smell atmosphere and treatments are all five-star, the essentials are there. You get way more is delicious. (You may be tempted to drink the prices are budget, especially when you than you’ve paid for – the prices are quite the water – just let your pores do that for inquire about ever-changing promotions or low for the high-quality massages masks, you.) Maternal masseuses will scrub you, decide to go for a package. A new favourite. scrubs and facials. So indulge and spend half calibrate the temperature, even proffer up ฮาป้าสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.3
a day here. มัลเบอร์รี่สปา สีลม
a tantalizing tamarind sorbet when the heat gets unbearable. Not everyone can handle this level of intimate pampering, but if you do, you come away with babysoft skin and that sweet, cool feeling of a detox well done.
LEYANA SPA [MAP 3 / O 2] 33 Thong Lor 13 (Soi Torsak, Sukhumvit 49) SPA 1930 [MAP 4 / J 6] BTS Thong Lo | 02-391-7694 42 Soi Tonson | BTS Chit Lom leyanaspa.com | Mon – Fri 11 am – 10 pm; 02-254-8606 | www.spa1930.com Sat – Sun 10 am – 10 pm | $$ สิริกิริยาสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.60 9:30 am – 9:30 pm | $$$ Tucked away in a warren of residential The achingly cute fake-timbered heritage roads near the Japanese enclave of Thong building, straight out of a Grimm’s fairy tale, Spa costs Lo, this boutique massage retreat com- houses a spa that is so popular it’s difficult $ under B600 bines a clean, contemporary design with to get a reservation. Maybe it’s been fea- $$ B600 – B1,000 an extensive menu of massage, facial, and tured in too many Asian travel magazines? $$$ B1,000-2,000 body treatments. Choose from a range of At any given time, Singaporean and Hong 1 0 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
W E L L N E S S | S pa
energy healing therapy at thann sanctuary Signature treatment
– experience the centuries old tradition of healing hands – One of a clutch of designer spas to be launched by a Thai skincare brand, Thann Sanctuary sits high up in the marble ode to luxury consumerism that is Gaysorn. Voted one of the Top 55 spas in the world by Conde Nast Traveller Magazine, it’s the ying to the cream mall’s yang.
tenderly caressed. This is Reiki – an ancient healing art form that was revived in Japan in the 1800s and is said to heal and bring a transcendental sense of well-being through the transfer of energy, or ki, via the palms. It’s believed that this ki flows through the therapist’s hands and vibrates the receiver’s cells at a higher frequency, therefore jump-starting The menu is small, but very appealing, featuring a variety of internal healing. As you can imagine, Reiki has its detractors massage forms – Thai, aromatherapy, Swedish, Ayurvedic, – some call it a placebo, others charlatanism – but we found among others. Bored with the usual Thai treatments, we the experience calming, sensual and enigmatic. chose the Energy Healing Therapy, which, like all treatments here, begins with a form that asks which areas your thera- ธัญ แซงจูรี่ ศูนย์การค้าเกษร pist should avoid and which they should give extra special attention to. Lasting 90 hazy minutes, it’s for the most part an oil massage, featuring long, Swedish strokes along the body meridians with a delicious Thann oil (in our case, lemongrass). getting there But, just when you’re wondering where the ‘energy heal- THANN SANCTUARY [MAP 4 / G 4] rd ing’ part is, your therapist stops abruptly, for what seems 3 F, Gaysorn, 999 Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chid Lom like minutes, but may well have only been seconds. Then, 02-656-1424 | www.thann.info | 10 am – 9 pm instead of firm touches, you can sense your body is being B 2,600 (90 minutes) bangkok101.com
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 1
getting there
RIVERSIDE BANGKOK by Dejan Patic
RAIL
SKYTRAIN (BTS) The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a twoline elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Airport Rail Link A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150 as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th bangkok101.com
ROAD
BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep tuk-tuks, fares should be negotiated canal boats operate from Phan Fa beforehand. Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old has thousands City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng TAXI Bangkok University. However, you have to be of metered, air-con taxis availquick to board them as they don’t able 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for usually wait around. Canal (khlong) the first 2 k ms) and the fare climbs boats tend to be frequent and cost in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought switches the meter on. No tipping, onboard. Note that the piers are a lit- but rounding the fare up to the neartle hidden away, which makes them est B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is sometimes difficult to find. baggage. For trips to and from the EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s airport, passengers should pay the vast network of inter-city waterways expressway toll fees. When boarding offer a quick and colourful alterfrom the queue outside the terminative for getting around the city. nal, an additional B 50 surcharge is Express boats ply the Chao Phraya added. River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis 30 main piers altogether. Fares range (or samlor) are best known as tukfrom B 9 to B 32 depending on the tuks, named for the steady whirr distance, while tickets can either of their engines. A 10-minute ride be bought on the boat or at the pier, should cost around B 40, but always depending on how much time you bargain before boarding. Beware: if have. Boats depart every 20 minutes a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. anywhere for B 10, it’s part of a setup Cross-river services operate through- that will lead you to an overpriced out the day from each pier for just B 3. souvenir or jewellery shop.
RIVER
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 3
REFERENCE
Map 1
Greater Bangkok
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
UTHAI THANI
CHAI NAT
2
Chiang Mai
LOP BURI
Nakhon Ratchasima c
Udon Thani
Nakhon Ratchasima
Lop Buri
Kanchanaburi
Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang
NAKHON RATCHASIM A
SARABURI
3
Andaman Sea
Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya
Koh Samui
AYUTTHAYA
Phuket
PATHUM THANI 5
RATCHABURI
MALAYSIA
PRACHIN BURI
f c
1
VIETNAM
Gulf of Thailand
Krabi
NAKHON NAYOK
4
NAKHON PATHOM
Ubon
Bangkok
ANG THONG
KANCHANABURI
LAOS
THAILAND
SING BURI
SUPHAN BURI
6
M
MYANMAR
Uthai Thani
1
Map 2 >
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya
b
3
2
SA KAEO
BANGKOK f a
SAMUT 2 SAKHON
CHACHOENGSAO
SAMUT
1 PRAKAN d
SAMUT SONGKHRAM
CA M BODI A CHON BURI
Phetchaburi
7
Ko Sichang
PHETCHABURI 8
Pattaya RAYONG
Cha-am
CHANTHABURI
Rayong Hua Hin
Ko Samet
Muang Chantaburi
9
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10
Trat
Gulf of Thailand
M YA N M A R
Ko Chang
Prachuap Khiri Khan
11
Ko Kut
N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
1 0 4 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Sightseeing
floating Markets
a
1
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
2
Damnoen Saduak Amphawa
Museums
Nightlife 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
Hotels
1 Anantara Bangkok Erawan Museum Riverside Resort and Spa House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods 1
2
bangkok101.com
reference | B angkok city M ap 1 / 2
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
F
Tanya Tanee
PAK KRET
1
Don Mueng
2
Don Mueng Int. Airport
Ko Kret
Sai Mai
3
F
Royal Irrigation Dept.
Lak Si
F
F
Rajpruek
The Legacy
F
Northpark
Bang Khen
F
4
e
Khlong Sam wa
Royal Thai Army Sport Center
F5
1
MUENG NONTHABURI
Thanont
F
Chatuchak Bang Sue
Phayathat
Phasi Charoen
Saphan Sung
Bang Kapi
F
Pathumwan
Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai
Bang Rak
Khlong San
Thon Buri 1
Chom Thong Bang Bon
8
Huai Khwang
Ratchathewi
Bangkok Noi
*
Bang Kholaem
Lat Krabang
F
Suan Luang
Khlong Toei
Sathorn
60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park
Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande
Watthana
Lumpini
7
Wang Thong lang
DinDaeng
Taling Chan
Mini Buri
F
Navatanee
Mo Chit
Dusit
6
Khan na Yao
Bueng Kum
Chatuchak
Bang Sue
Bang Phlat
Panya Indra
Lat Phrao
9
10
Prawet Yan 2 Nawa
Rat Burana
Phra Khanong 4
Phra Pradaeng
f
11
Suan Luang Rama IX
Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport
Bang Na
12
F
Summit Windmill
Bearing
Bang Khun Thian
13
F
Mueang Kaew
Thung Khru
14
F
Green Valley
15
PHRA SAMUT CHEDI
SAMUT PRAKAN
16
17
F
Bangpoo
Gulf of Thailand
bangkok101.com
18
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 5
REFERENCE
Map 3
Sukhumvit Road
Su kh um vit
n Po
i4 9/
kh
13
Su
9/
13
i4
iP
i3
om hr
So 9
Si 2
nS
Si
1
i
adt i
hro
m
Ch
it
So
3
23
h iP
m ro
Ch
ai
Soi
om Phr
Mit
om Phr Pho
Soi
41
13
39 Soi 7 ng - Soi 3
33
14 NO 15
Soi 35
Soi
31
29
3
Soi
Soi
i 23
27
-So
a
Soi
y bo
mit
ow
Phrom Phong
2–
4
Sa
i1
iN
11
Soi 24
i2
3 5
Benjasiri Park
Soi 26
IR
So
0
8
i2
i1
So
So
So
oi
ip
i
Sa
ha
an
Th
kC
Se
am
Su
oi
ida
5
9
mr
Soi Methi Niwet
an
n
4
Ex an
i1 6–
iY ag
isa
Soi Met
m
m
itr
Mi
asem
am
ek
t
mR udi
BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line
Hotels
malls
1 Robinsons Conrad Bangkok 2 Terminal 21 2 Sheraton Grande 3 Emporium 3 Seven 4 JW Marriot Markets 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 4 Sukhumvit 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 11 Marriott Executive Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 1
hi Niwet Soi K
so
iS
his
So
ap
Rua
Benjakiti Park
So
So
ad
ay
tch
sw
i
aH
Ra
es pr Soi
So
m Sa
h
So
So
vit ho
Saw iP
san
iC
iP
9/
um iP
Soi
So
4
Pra
han
So
So
11
So
g– So
om hr
it
att iW
12 2 16 Asok
7 9
–S
Pr
–S
oi
3
i4
anm
So
Sukhumvit
12
–S
i Ta
uk
oh ak Canal Boat
1 0 6 | M ay 2 0 1 2
S
P oi
9–
Soi
i8
na
aS
i6
8
So
ras
10
2
Soi 1 0
So
Na
Ph
So
1
4
N 200 m 1 000 ft
Railway
2
Soi iP
i1
2
i1
13
oi
oi
rm
N
Subway Line
rom
31
2
So
k Yae
1 i3
So
15
Soi
Soi
Soi 6
–S
i2
ale 1 6
i
vit
oi 1S
So
So
21
hum
2 vit
adt
hum
ai
5 6
vit
M
4
Soi Saw
Suk
Suk
aek 31 Y
Soi
vit
23
Ch
9
11
Nana
i4
So
–S
So
Ch UA
QA
n Si
hum
Soi LK
uam
han Soi
Soi
7
1
7
1 NZ
it
31
vit
iR
gC
Soi
5
8
Soi
8
pM
Soi
hum
23
Suk
Suk
Soi
So
iS aen
So
Soi
t Sin
S
um ukh
11
et
Phloen Chit
9
oi 3
Sukhumvit
11
vit
3
1
Loe
vit
3
hum
Soi
Suk
i Lo
7
1S
1
ot ai Y
12
Soi
ital
ea
osp
Nu
dH
na
Ch
4
vit
hum
5
i1
i1
So
So
ri
vit
vit 1
i1
10
Na
gra
Na
it
ont
um
i1
So
d
2
Pho
Suk
kM
kh
So
vit
gra
6
Soi
run
run
IN
Soi
S2
1
3
Bum
Soi
Ch
Eye
Aso
Su
vit
um
Soi
Soi
Bum
um
um
kh
vit
4
kh
kh
Su
hum
Nana
Su
Su
Soi 36
Suk
i
6
R
International School
3
5
Ro
in uth
1
43
Soi
a
oi 3
Soi
Soi 41
Soi 39
2
n
an tch
Soi
L Ph
Asoke
K
Pho
ri abu Phetchaburi
J
hum
tch
H
vit S
Phe
G
Soi
t
F
Suk
Phe
eng
E
hum
pha
D
Suk
Kam
1
C
38
B
Soi
A
Arts & Culture 1
Japan Foundation Koi Art Gallery 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre 6 Nang Kwak 7 WTF 8 The Pickture Gallery 2
bangkok101.com
reference | B angkok city M ap 3
q
gL
o
Ek
7
ka
m
ai
So
2
i6
Ek
ka
ma
iS
4 oi
gL
2
ru
or
ek
1 on
iE
5
kk ai
ut
am
hab
Soi
65
67
Soi
Soi
So
i4
9/
11
9
6
Sukhumvit
–
6
0–
8
i4
i3
So
So
Science Ekkamai Museum
iB ar
Su
kC
ha
i
nC ha i
iS
ang
So
ph
ae nS
So
a iS
ma
ab
nC
ha
ai –S uk hu mv
So
hic
7 ha
iS
t2
i
ae
i So
iP
bo
i Ta
iS
i Su
a iS
en
Kluaynamthai
n
gC
ha
n
Ra
ma
36
Clubs 1 2 3 10 24
Q Bar Bed Supperclub Insomnia Glow Demo
pubs 11 12 13 14 15 16
The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver The Robin Hood The Royal Oak The Londoner Black Swan
bangkok101.com
Nightlife 4 5 6 7 8 9 19 17 18 20 21 22 23 25
Long Table Beervault Diplomat Bar The Living Room Cheap Charlie's Barsu WTF Tokyo Joe's Club Perdomo The Iron Fairies Clouds Fat Gut'z Shades of Retro diVino
Embassies IN IR LK PH QA UA NO
aw a
t
8
IV
it
11
So
42
ua
k
Kl
Su
So
So
ri
asem
Soi A
Soi K
1
So
Soi
ti
nasan
an
an
iB
iS
So
So
– Ban
et
Niwet i Methi
Phra Khanong
Vasant
Thong Lor
Soi 3
34
Soi 30
Soi 28
Soi 26
Soi 24
17
Soi
PH
18
69
Sukhumvit
63
61
oi
oi
–S
–S
7
59
i5
oi
–S
So
1
3
5
oi 5
oi 5
–S
–S
ana
adi
i5
i4
5
7
i4
i4
So
So
So
41
43
So
Soi
Soi
39 Soi 7 ng - Soi 3
Lor
Ch
ett
So
iS
un
ng
iM
Pho
Pad
iB
So
Th
So
r1
Phong
So
3
ph
gL
6
4
3 or
Lo ong
oi
iya
on
4
Tho
Soi
om Phr
Th
5
iS
ai gY
or
or
ma
on kT
gL
gL
a kk
1
on Th
9
on
Th
6 19
Mit
oi 1
E
Th
g
ne
e Ya
or
9/1 lan Soi K
aro
ao
gL
i4
Mit
Ch
Kh
on
Soi 4
So
om Phr
ai S
Soi
ng
Th
Soi
i3
ua
Soi 49/3
6
1
Ph
on
ama
am
i
k6
Th
Ekk
r9
Cha
ae 0Y
2 1
Ekk
i5
ne haro
i1
g
e Suk haron Thong Lor 8
y
ma
Thon
Soi C
Soi C
ka
hon
22 23 8
20 1 Lor 1
ai So
x
t
4 T
Ekkam i7 ai So Ekkam Ekkam
w
Ek
Si
49/
24
21
13
v
Mi
m ro
Soi
or gL
o
u
ne
Ph Si
ng L
6
13
m ro
Tho
rani i Su P
t
i9 ai So
aro
iP
So
49/
9/
So
vit
i4
/
ak
hum
So
49
Ph
s
Ch
25
Suk
it
i So
13
m hro
r r 16
ha
p
iC
o
So
n
India Iran Sri Lanka Philippines Qatar Ukraine Norway
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 7
9
REFERENCE
Map 4
Siam / Cit Lom
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
5 Soi 3
Soi 31 Soi 33
Soi 25
Soi 29
12
Soi Tonson
Ratchadamri
Soi 5 Soi11
Soi Lang Suan
NL
15
UA
13
d
Soi 2 Soi 3
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
8
Soi 4
Soi 3
i2
Ratchadamri
2
US
Soi 4
Soi 5
Soi 5
Chulalongkorn University Area
N
200 m
Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market
Sightseeing
1
a
Pathumwan Princess Jim Thomson House b Museum of Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski Imagery Technology 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel c Madame Tussads 5 Amari Watergate d Queen Savang 6 Novotel Platinum Vadhana Museum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan e Siam Ocean World 8 The Four Seasons f Ganesha and 9 The St. Regis Trimurti Shrine 10 InterContinental g Erawan Shrine 11 Holiday Inn h Goddess Tubtim Shrine 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok Nightlife 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld a CM2 15 Hotel Muse b Red Sky Bar 16 Okura Prestige c Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar Arts & Culture d P&L Club e Café Trio 1 BACC – Bangkok Art f Hyde & Seek and Culture Centre 2
1 0 8 | M ay 2 0 1 2
BR
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 7
Sarasin Lumphini Park
Hotels 2
1 000 ft
KH
Sarasin
Soi 6
9
malls MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place 1
2
Embassies Switzerland Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US USA VN Vietnam CH
BR
Shopping 16 17
Rud
b
NZ QA
uam
Soi Lang Suan1
Soi R
9
2
15
8
an
Henri Dunant
Soi 4
Soi 6
Soi 3
Soi10
Soi 2
Soi 1 Soi 8
f
Soi Mahatlek Luang 2
Soi Mahatlek Luang 3
7
VN
mvit
e
Phloen Chit 16
hith
Soi Mahatlek Luang1
12
Phloen Chit
Chit Lom FI
ukhu
Phaya Thai
13
ng P
Rajamangala University
g 11 7
Soi S
1
2 c
Dua
1
Soi 7
Soi 9
Siam 16 Siam Square
CH
ay
14
Soi Nai Lert
c 10 11
Th. Witthayu
10
8
UK
Witthayu
f
Soi Som Khit
4 e 3
7
Nai Lert Park
w ress
Wat Pathum Wanaram
Soi Chit Lom
d
Ratchaprarop
h
Soi Sukhumvit 1
Chit Lom
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 23
Soi 19
Soi 15
Soi 27
Soi 32
Soi 30
Witthayu Bridge
Exp
Soi Kaesem San1
6
Saeb
ohn Nak
Soi Kaesem San 2
Soi 17
Khlong San
14 b
c 2
National Stadium
6
9
6
Prathunam
Rama I 5
5
3
Srapathum Palace
1
17
lerm
a
4
ID
Hua Chang Bridge
3
5
Soi 20
Ratchathewi 2
uri
Cha
Phetchaburi Soi 18
Phetchab
Soi 22
1
Soi 13
4
Siam Square Pratunam Market
Tonson Gallery bangkok101.com
reference | B angkok city M ap 4 / 5
Silom / Sathorn E
kho
akh
are
t
2
ai Th aya
nan
t
2
Du He
8 Than Tawan Soi 6
Thaniya
Soi 4
Patpong 1 Patpong 2
n
BT
Lumpini Park
Sala Daeng l St. Joseph School
b
SG
14 CA
Ra
Sala Daeng 1/1
6
m
Sala Daeng 1
aI
V
16
Soi 5
Soi 7
10
5
Silom
Soi 6
Soi 8
anagarindra
k
4
j
4
5 o m 12
Convent
Soi 3
h
Chulalongkorn Hospital
Sala Daeng
Trok Klue
Soi 10 Soi 7
Soi 9
Soi 11 Yaek 3
3
nr y
Sap
Naret Soi 14
Decho Soi 9
or n S oi 1 1
Soi 13
TW
a
Surawong
Chong Nonsi
So i S a
Cha
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
Ph
Soi S Soi 11
Soi 1 8 Soi 16
Soi 13
g
Pan
Pramuan
9
11
Soi Phra Phinit
Suan Phlu Soi 1
Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3
Rat
Chulalongkorn University
Sam Yan
int Lo
en
Soi 13
u i se – S a t h
Charo aro
chit
Soi Phiphat 2
roen
Ch
Ch
King Mongkut’s University of Technology
M
1
BE
1
63
Soi Nom
Soi 14
9
f
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai Surasak
L
V
ong
Phr Soi
Soi 2 2 Soi P/2 – Prach radit um
k 3
aI
Phra
aN
Ma 6
3
K
Soi 1
Na rn tho Sa oi
suri
Soi 15
So
en Ra
t
i2
1
un Kr 5
gS
2 8
m
Soi Santiphap
ot
MM
So i 51 i5 3
7
run
Iam
So
n ar oe Ch an
i5
chai
Rat
2
g
i5
an
Ch
Suras
ak
6
Saphan Taksin
44
46
S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en K
7 d
4
i5 1 0
e
Soi 1
i4
4
i4
Kam
J
Phloi
Surawong
Silom
2
So
i5
Soi 38 Soi 40
i4
So
e
SathornSo
So
6
So So
So
Soi 3
Soi Puttha Os
0
b 5 c
1
3
idg
FR
Oriental
Taksin
Br
Rak–
4
Soi 3
Soi 3
2 n d Sta
Dumax
in
Ra
4
Maha Se
2
Bang
N
ha
ung en Kr Post
Wat Muang Khae 1 1Wat Suwan
Trok Ph et
Soi 32
sway
Cha
Si Phraya PT
Soi 39
Soi 30
Soi 2
3
H
Hua Lamphong
Si Phraya
pres
roen
N
6
Charo
Nak
Khlong San
te E x
hon
2
2a
N
Tak s
ang
G
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai
5 MY
AU
13
MX GR
15
p
7 Soi 1
Soi Saw
n
Marine Dept.
Lat Ya
F
Soi 5
D
Naradhiwas Raj
4
as Naradhiwind Rajanagar ra
C N
Soi 12
B
Soi Wanit 2
A
Map 5
DE DK
Suan
Phlu 6
Ph Suan
Soi Nantha
lu 8
AT
9
Immigration Office
Hotels 1
bars with views
a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton Nightlife 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn b La Casa Del Habano 9 All Seasons Sathorn c Bamboo Bar 10 Sofitel f Niu's on Silom 11 Le Meridien g Barley Bistro & Bar 12 Crown Plaza j Eat Me k Tapas Bangkok Lumpini 13 Banyan Tree 14 Dusit Thani Pubs 15 The Sukothai 16 Sofitel SO e Jameson's h The Pintsman l Molly Malone's m The Barbican n O'Reilly's
Arts & Culture
Embassies
1
AT
Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise
Shopping 1
Robinsons River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store 2
N
200 m 1 000 ft 1
N
River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market
Sightseeing a b
bangkok101.com
Austria AU Australia BE Belgium BT Bhutan CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MY Malaysia MX Mexico MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan
8
Snake Farm M.R. Kukrit’s House M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 9
REFERENCE
Map 6
Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) B
C
1
F
G
H
Ma
M ai
Ba n D ok
h1u li n
E
J
itri
Ch
K
L
M
Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station
it
Tr
na
iP
r ad
u
M it tr ph an
Na
So
Hua Lamphong
Ch aro en Ya ow a r at K r So
i7
3 h
g j i1
Y So i 3
So
Y
un
Y5
2
So ng Saw at
So
i2
Rama IV Y
Phadungdao–Soi Texas
Y So i 9
Pl an g N am
So i 18
So i 6
S oi 4
Y
C
at
Tr i M si ang
2
P
S ong W
a n it 1
it
g
S oi W
ur han
So i 16
So i 21
on M an gk
So i 19
it
i So
Du
ang
5
ut an P h Sa p h
t Phu
River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market
g ae n
S ap
6
S ap
Memorial Bridge
Hotels 1
Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion
Arts & Culture 1 2 3
Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre
Th
a
Princess Mother Memorial Park
200 m
River Ferry
Tha Din Daeng
han
t Phu han
N
w Ta
Marine Dept.
et i Ph e pir Em
aK
4
1 000 ft
Temples
Markets
Wat Ratburana School Wat Pra Phiren c Wat Bophit Phimuk d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphanthawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha)
Long Krasuang Market Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 3 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 4 Yot Phimai Market 5 Pahurat –Indian Fabric Market 6 Sampeng Market 7 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 8 Khlong Tom Market 9 Talat Kao (Old Market) 10 Talat Mai (New Market)
a
b
Sightseeing j
1 1 0 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Ch
Rajchawongse
Ba
ha
R at
la n g
Ma
itri
a
2
1
g wo n
N
o nM 3
N
N
Soi 14 Y Soi 15
A nu
Th S oi
9
Soi 8 Y Soi 17
Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19
Soi 17
Su ap a Ratch awon g
Y S 10 CK S 12
Y Soi 23
Ma ha Ch ak d
nt
c
1
Rachi ni Atsad ang
8
it 1
9
Y Soi 11
Ch aiy aphun
6
2
7
Sam peng Lane – Soi Wan
10
Trok Itsaranuphap
i
Lu ean Rit
Soi 8
Soi 10
t
at hur5 Pha
Sa
Ma ngkon
ar
So i 15
So i 11
9 S oi
ha
1
r ap
S
Yaow
f
Ma
p
D Din
6
at
W
nu
t ar a
Soi Aner Keng
ip Th
m
So i 13
h at Bo
i So
So
nu
j
i
Ch ak kr aw at
ha
4 oi
oe
Pha
gs Ran
C ha kp he
P ok
So
i5 Tr
ar
ru nK 1
e
Bu
Ch
ut
ng
Ti 5
7
t Yo
6
is
m
8
Charoen Krun g
iP S ir
kW
Sa
i3
on
g
o Tr
Th
4
rip
ai Ch ha Ma
n ho
Ugn
ak
an
Romaneenart Park
g
a iph
em
3
K h lo n
en
as
ip
t P h ir
gK
i S ir
Wa Thom
un
So
b
k Wor ac ha
2
ng
Si Thamm athirat
Lua h at
Trok
Sida
S oi C
D
Kr
A
1
2
Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle
bangkok101.com
an
N
4
K
So
i2
9
reference | B angkok city M ap 6 / 7
Map 7 A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Ra
ma
14
N
So
Rama VIII Bridge
Rattanakosin (Oldtown)
J
K
L
M
Ph
its
VII
I
et md
k
ata
ha e Ka iC
Market Tot Phimai Market
N
ok Rat
cha
Dinso
Dam
noe
6
Memorial Bridge
Soi B an
Wo rach ak
Bat
ng O Khlo
Unakan Siri Phong
Ti Thong
Boriphat
Chai
Soi Mahannop 2
Maha ng
11
Chai
Yao w
ara
So
iB
op
t
hit
ph
im uk
Wat Wat Bophit Chakrawat Phimuk
wat kkra Cha
Son
gW at
en
Ch ak kr aw at
ng
aro
gT
Kr
ho
mW at
Phi
12
ren
un
g 13
14
Ya ow a
ra
Anu
won g
t
aw on g
7
Cha kph e Pak Khlong t
10
15
Ra
Ya i k ko ng Ba
apho
Ch
Ka
Kh N
So iW at Ka nla ya
Wat Liap
9
tch
lo
Th
Wat Kanlayannamit
lon
Ma ha Ch an k
Ta l ng
aK
Kh
t
m
ha
i So
Phir
Tri Ph e
Set
Rajinee
g lon Kh
bangkok101.com
an thak
8
Wat Saket
Luan
Sri
n ari Am un Ar
N
Phahurat Ban Mo
Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)
Phra Phi Phit
7
g
Royal Theatre
Thip Wari
Museum of Siam Soi
Rommaninat Park
Bor iph at
tu
Che
at
Saphan Phut
at har Ma
Wat Arun
n pho
at
Soi Long Tha
Burapha
Tha Tien
hai 2 hai 1
Sam Yot
Trok Phan um
Lan Luang
Muang
Soi Sirip
Song
6
an
Saw
Phan Fah Leelard
Bumrung Soi Siric
Ch ak ra Ph sem et
Wat Pho
8
Rat
Soi Siric
Charoen Krung
at
N
mran
Giant Swing
Soi Sa
Soi Phra ya Si
i Sanam Cha
Tha
Ratchabophit
Wat Ratchabophit
Saranrom Park
ng i Wa
Trok Sukha 2
Soi Sa
Wat Suthat
n kho
ng Rak
g Tai
City Hall
Trok Sukha1
isut
Grand Palace
5
Damro
Klan
Wat Ratchanatdaram
uang
Fuang Nakhon
Khlong Lot
Saranrom
Wat
Tanao
Buranasat
aitri
Wat Ratchapradit
noen
Trok Ratchanatdaram Sin
Bumrung M
Kalayana M
Chao Phraya
Trok Nava
Phraeng Phuthon
Wat Phra Kaew
o
Na
Dam
Ph ra Po kk lao
Tha Chang
Phraeng Nara
Lak Mueang
Na Phra Lan
nL
Democracy Monument
Mahannop
hrut
K Trok
ei Na Hap Pho
Trok W
Soi Silipakorn
Bunsiri
g Nuea
Klang
Trok hep T Sath hida ien Ram
Tri Phet
Wat Rakhang
lang Tai
k Khro lonSgake L ot W at T
ee Rachin ang d a ts A
t ra Tha
Sanam Luang
Ba
ng A
noen K
Ratcha Damn oen N ai
Maharat
Wat Mahathat
9
noen Klan
noen
T
Silpokaorn University N
Soi Dam
Soi Dam
Na Ph
Amulet Market
Tro k
Dinso
ao
han
g
nN
Tr ok
ho
Ch
i ttr
Kl
an a Dam
ra C
Wang Lang
4
on
hu
Bowonniwet ViHara
Ratch
Thammasart University Maharaj Ph
i
aos
an T ula
10
ap h
So
iS am Ph long sen ra 2 Su Bang me L Wat n amp
Bu
p sa Ka
Pin ra Ph
Kh
Du
N
Kh
ais
Tan i
m Ra
ok Tr
t de m So ge rid
aB National Museum
iW or
Kr
kr aP
ray Ph
National Arts Gallery
National Theatre
So
ng
Wat Chana Songkhram
S
ak
o ha
Bu
Maha
i
ttr
am
R oi
3
Pra cha T
t
asa
C et md
Thonburi N11 Thonburi Railway Railway
tK isu
P
13
N
Phra Atith
hip
W
So
Khlong Bangkok Noi
ith
At
a hr
2
m
i
Sam
ao
s en
Kl 12
N
se g an Ka Lu g k un Lu Kr
Pin ra Ph
Wat Saodung
Phra Pin Klao Bridge
1
an ulo
N
16
5
Rajchawongse
M ay 2 0 1 2 | 1 1 1
m y b a n g ko k
My Bangkok DJ Octo Best place for a drink This will reek of bias (because I DJ here) but it has to be Q Bar. More specifically; the upstairs, open-air balcony – dubbed ‘Q Up’. Super comfy sofas and a regular stream of weird ‘n wonderful souls to talk nonsense to while sampling what’s almost definitely the widest selection of fine liquor in the land. Oh, and the best DJs spin here too.
One of the most versatile and best loved DJs on the circuit, DJ Octo spins his brand of hip-hop, breaks and whatever else gets the crowd whooping at both of Sukhumvit Soi 11’s big boys, Q Bar and Bed Supperclub. He also appears to be the go-to DJ for the celeb-studded afterparty, having spun at shindigs hosted by everyone from Gwen Stefani to the Black Eyed Peas. A long-time resident, he also knows this city about as well as his record box. To find out where he’s juggling beats next, track him at www. djocto.com and twitter.com/djocto. THE SHORTLIST: Q Bar [MAP 3 / C 4]
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm – 1am Na Aroon [MAP 3 / A 5]
65 Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Ploenchit 02-254-8880 | www.ariyasom.com 6:30 am – 11 pm; last order 10 pm Jatujak [MAP 8 / M 3]
Phaholyothin Rd | BTS Mo Chit / MRT Kamphangphet | weekend market 9 am – 7 pm Asian Herb Association [MAP 3 / M 8]
33/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong www.asiaherbassociation.com Bed Supperclub [MAP 3 / C 4]
26 Sukhumvit 11 | BTS Nana | 02-651-3537 www.bedsupperclub.com | 7:30 pm –1 am
1 1 2 | M ay 2 0 1 2
Best place to eat out I’m a vegetarian so eating out in Bangkok can sometimes be quite tricky – but I was lucky enough to stumble upon this amazing little secret while walking my dog... Nestled at the very the bottom of Sukhumvit Soi 1, right next to the khlong, is a lovely 1940s boutique hotel called Ariyasom Villa. Within it’s grounds is Na Aroon, which instantly became my favorite vegetarian restaurant. The menu is made up mostly of Thai classics which have been veggie-fied – carefully substituting meat and animal products with tofu and soya. Next to the pool in the garden is the winning spot – the dense tropical vegetation makes it easy forget you’re in the heart of such a bustling city! Best place to take visitors Simple – my patented ‘cheap-as-chips river ‘n temple cruise!’ Take the skytrain from Siam to Saphan Thaksin then skip under the bridge and jump on the river-taxi heading towards Wat Po (which I think costs around B20). The trip up river takes about 20 to 30 minutes and it’s a refreshing change from being stuck in our legendary traffic – plus you get some great views of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace along the way. Jump off at the Wat Po pier and have a massage at the world-renowned massage school and check out one of Thailand’s most famous images, the reclining Buddha. Best place to shop Simply has to be Jatujak. The biggest, craziest and hottest market you’ll probably ever visit in your life! You’ll find everything here from home furnishing to exotic plants to flying squirrels (the latter not recommended mind you, the market isn’t famous for it’s ethical treatment of animals). Late afternoon or early morning visits only – it’s hotter than the surface of the sun at midday. Best place to relax Asian Herb Association for a foot ‘n shoulder massage. Probably the comfiest ‘lazy-boy’ chairs I’ve ever sat in and the standard of masseuse is extremely high. I’ve only been the one on Sukhumvit 31 but there’s quite a few dotted around and about and I’ve heard they’re all good. Best place to impress a date Friday night at Bed Supperclub – your date will not only be amazed that you know this super funky, unique club (voted #46 best club in the world by DJ Mag 2012) but also that you knew which night had the best music (ahem). Best place for a real Bangkok experience Siam Square is a great place for a concentrated dose of ‘Bangkok’ – full of funky little clothes shops, a plethora of groovy cafés frequented by hoards of the city’s local university students and young hipsters. bangkok101.com