bangkok 101
november 2011 100 baht
thai taxi talismans
Thai TAXI talismans
november 2011
+
metrobeat oskar bistro
accommodation Hotel Muse
travel Manila
food & drink saras
Soft Reopening & Rebranding to a member of the MGallery collection on the 1st of November 2011
Prime beach front location at the quiet north end of the world famous Patong Beach in Phuket. The resort’s 123 rooms & suites have a feel which exudes modern playfulness & funky vibes blended with Feng Shui color schemes. It offers spectacular sunset views from it’s 198 lobby bar which overlooks the white sandy beach & sparkling turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea. Free WiFi is provided throughout the resort. Other facilities include the B-Restaurant, B-Spa, & a private nightclub, Beat Club.
B-Lay Tong Phuket 198 Taveewong Rd, Patong, Kathu, Phuket, 83150Thailand T.+66(0)76.344.999 F.+66(0)76.344.998 Email: rsvn@b-laytong.com
publisher’s
letter
november 2011
This month we celebrate our sixth birthday, a ripe old age in magazine years, in subdued fashion. Why? With people living across the Central Plains and in the outskirts of Bangkok having just had their livelihoods literally washed away by flood waters we wouldn’t have it any other way. Parties can wait, the wellbeing of millions can’t. Head to Making Merit, on p.94, for a rundown of the ways in which you can help those affected get back on their feet. Looming largest on Bangkok’s busy social calendar this month is the 9th World Film Festival of Bangkok. Traditionally an audience focused counterweight to the bulkier, more celeb-studded Bangkok International Film Festival, which is on extended hiatus, it’s now the longest running annual art house treat in town. See p.10 for a rundown of some of the highlights that will be screening, as handpicked by veteran festival director Kriengsak ‘Victor’ Silakong. Staying in town, we’ve got the rest of the month ahead covered – from a review of Lang Suan Road’s dapper new themed digs Hotel Muse, to an interview with the curator of the BACC’s eerily timely natural disaster-themed exhibition Let’s Panic, and, of course, as always, the comprehensive listings and new reviews you know and (hopefully) cherish us for. Our photofeature this month is a taster from Thai Taxi Talismans, a new book dedicated solely to the dashboard deities, cuddly toys and other miscellaneous bits and bobs taxi drivers here festoon their cabs with in an effort to ensure their safety, bring them wealth or good luck – not to mention provide you with some diverting eye-candy during those dull waits in traffic. caters November signals the end of the monsoon season and kok 101 y sed, Bang what the ia b n n a u transition into Thai winter, the few weeks of the year when th d an for more gs together pendent rn a e e d y In who temperatures plummet (a bit) and locals head upcountry to revel It brin , travellers idebooks. sidents, writers to savvy re dated gu , y in them. Good excuses to don a warm jumper and join them this lt ty it h c su f ig re e o rs. The find in w tive who’s who mentato vel m month include Surin’s elephant rundown (our Festival Focus), ta a o ri tr c o l ly th ra u th u a n an f mo d cult hybrid o phers an off the Kanchanaburi’s River Kwai Bridge Week, and Lopburi’s Monkey photogra ct and intelligent kes you on and a ta p s the t y a m o lo th Banquet, among other festivals previewed in Upcountry Now. c p e a m in is y magaz k. Bangkok 101 e it c smut. d o n n a d Easily the most atmospheric is night festival Loy Krathong, guide fluff, an rist trac u o n to h rously it rn o o w g well-w ndards, t. We ri when locals float away the troubles of the past year on little itorial sta cannot be bough ur ongoing d e st e h o hig and tent floats made from banana tree trunk. In light of the trauma orial con on our readers, is great city Our edit th cus y fo jo e n of recent weeks, we’ll be joining them at the river’s edge on e th y maintain is to ensure the g in it. in liv e November 10 to wish for a swift recovery for all. See you back mission s we lov a h c u m as here,next year, and hopefully in a more party-minded mood.
What i1s01? Bangkok
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
The Stylish
New Way to Sleep in Bangkok
seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com
contributors Dale Konstanz
Konstanz is an artist, freelance illustrator, and professor who has been addicted to taking Thai taxis since he moved to Bangkok in 2003. Konstanz h as exh i bi ted his wor k internationally and has taught at several ar t and design colleges, universities, and museums in the US, including the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. He currently teaches in the Fine and Applied Arts Division at Mahidol University International College.
Philip Cornwel-Smith
Ver y Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand:A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
Howard Richardson
Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.
Brian Mertens
Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and news for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.
Chris Menist
Chris Menist is a writer, DJ and musician who has been based in South Asia since 2006. He is a regular contributor to Songlines magazine, and his writing has appeared in The Independent, The Obser ver, FACT and Straight No Chaser. If you like his column, check out his DJ partner Maft Sai’s record label ZudRangMa, either online at zudrangmarecords.com or at its shop, which has just relocated to a new location on Sukhumvit Soi 51, next door to WTF Bar.
Steven Pettifor
British-born writer-ar tist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he publishedc coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing about art, he is often found travel writing.
Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa
N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentar y scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.
Dave Stamboulis
Greek-born but Californiar aised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he wor ks for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, while his travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.
Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Editorial Assistant Amornsri Tresarannukul Adul Waengmol Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Simon Ostheimer, Luc Citrinot, Chris Menist, Howard Richardson, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Korakot Punlopruksa, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000 @yahoo.com
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2011. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
table of
contents city pulse 6 10 12
metro beat now in bangkok: world film festival boutique hotel : hotel muse
snapshots 14 15 16 17
history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: drink in a bag
sightseeing 18 19 20 21 22 23
temples historical homes & shrines museums museum focus : museum of siam parks & zoos kids in the city
travel 24 25 26 28 32
hotel deals upcountry now festival focus : changland upcountry escape : chiang Khan over the border : manila
arts
36 exhibitions 38 art 1-on-1 : sansern milindasuta on let’s panic 39 performing arts 40 paradise found 41 reading & screening 42 photo feature : thai taxi talismans
november 2011
food & drink 48 49 50 52 53 56 57 58 59 64 66
dining in bangkok meal deals street eats vegetarian restaurant review all you can eat river cruises neighbourhood nosh : pratuu pee restaurants dessert wine
nightlife 68 69 70 72 74 76 78 79 80 81
one night in bangkok bars review : overstay clubs bars with a views hotel bars & clubs bars live music jazz clubs pub review: house of beers nightlife areas
shopping 82 83 84 86 88
unique boutique : urban tree fashion 1-on-1 : ek thongprasert mall crawl jatujak market markets
wellness
90 spas 91 wellness centre
community 92 sports 93 classes 94 making merit
reference 95 getting around
my bangkok On the cover: a collage of photos from new book,Thai Taxi Talismans
96 my bangkok : ooh and the ballyhoo
HOTEL PARTNERS
CHAMPAGNE SURF & TURF BRUNCH, 1ST AND 3RD SUNDAY OF EVERY MONTH BAHT 2,955++ PER PERSON
WITH FREE FLOW OF WORLD RENOWNED LOMBARD CHAMPAGNE
For further information call dining reservations 02 100 6255 Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama1 Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand T (0)2 100 1234 F (0)2 100 1235 E diningcgcw@chr.co.th www.centara.co.th
SN C I TAYP S PH U OT L S ES
metro beat
Our man about town Howard Richardson presents the lowdown on what’s on and what’s in. Read on for the picks of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, happenings and openings, plus all the essential events you can’t afford to miss
Pop & Rock
Exhibitions
Japanese heavy rock in the shape of X Japan lands on Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on November 8. The band are here as part of their world tour and have recently released the singles ‘Scarlet Love Song’ and ‘Jade’. A new album is also rumoured for release sometime this year. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets from B1,000-B6,000. Cuban American rapper Pitbull and his backing band play hits such as ‘Hey Baby (Drop It to the Floor),’ ‘Hotel Room Service’ and ‘I Know You Want Me’ at Impact Arena (02-5045050) on November 28. Get tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor. com) at B2,500 apiece. Scottish prog-rockers Mogwai bring tunes from their latest album Hardcore Will Never Die, But You Will and tracks like ‘Auto Rock’ and ‘Take Me Somewhere Nice’ to Moonstar Studio (02-539-3881) on December 2. Support comes from Japanese band Toe and Bangkok stalwarts Modern Dog. Tickets are B1,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
Spin Around at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC, 02-664-8448) examines bicycles, including business development, design, accessories and cyclists lifestyles. Open Tuesday-Sunday until November 6.
Theatre The Bangkok Theatre Festival 2011 shows various acts from November 17-December 4, at venues around the city, but chiefly at the riverside Santichai Prakarn Park and Phra Arthit Road, in Banglampu. Performances include street theatre and children’s theatre and there are also several lectures. Entrance to stages in the park is free and at weekends only. For more information see www.bangkoktheatrenetwork.com. 6
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Art The smart woodblock prints of British artist Ralph Kiggell are showing at Thavibu Gallery (02-2665454) in an exhibition called Sun Room from November 5-December 10. The Japan-trained artist works in water-based colours, hand-printing on saa paper made from mulberry tree bark. To mark the 150th anniversary of Italian Unity there’s a recreation of The Siamese Pavilion at the Turin Expo 1911 at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (02-214-6632) until November 18. The original pavilion was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, who lived in Bangkok and worked for the Siamese Royal Court until 1925. The exhibition is in three main sections with Tamagno’s art in The Architectural Studio; the work of Galileo Chini, who spent most of his career in Bangkok, in The Artist Studio; and the history and content of the pavilion itself The Siam Pavilion. Following last month’s devastating floods around Thailand this exhibition running until November 25 could hardly have been better timed. Also at the BACC, Let’s Panic is co-organised by Design For Disasters and focused on raising awareness about the environment. Fifteen artists explore the possibility of catastrophes and what they might mean for Bangkok and its residents. See www.facebook.com/baccpage.
city pulse
www.bangkok101.com
Festival
Food & Drink
Perhaps Thailand’s most beautiful festival is the lunar-based Loy Krathong, which sees people float candles on rivers to give thanks to the water spirits. The full moon is November 10, although the ceremony dates may vary slightly around the country. Bangkok has official celebrations at Nakaraphiroem and Santichai Prakarn parks and most hotels along the Chao Phraya River will have special dinners and krathong launching.
Culture The National Museum Bangkok holds lectures every Thursday throughout the month, starting with Contemporary Thai Politics: Six Realities We Cannot Duck by Michael J Montesano and Introduction to Annual Thai Ceremonies and Observances by the Venerable Kantasilo on Nov 3. Let’s go Wat Hopping by Joyce Meer and Bill Lipsey and Introduction to the Ramakien by Stephanie Strasser are on Nov 10; while Nov 17 sees On the Floral Road to Siam by Sakul Intakul and The Thai Hybrid by Philip Cornwel-Smith. The month closes with Royal Thai Cremation Ceremonies by MR Chakrarot Chitrabongs and Invoking the Land Gods: Understanding the Thai Spirit House by Marisa Cranfill. All lectures run from 9am-noon and cost B400 for non-members. See www.museumvolunteersbkk.net for details. Meanwhile, the Siam Society (02-661-6470) hosts a lecture called Thai and Mon Literature: The Forgotten Role of the Mon of Siam by Mathias Jenny and Patrick McCormick on November 15 at 7.30pm. The society has also launched a new website (www. siamese-heritage.org).
Sport Runners in the Bangkok Marathon will pass many of the historical sites around the old city on November 20. The start and finish lines are on Sanam Chai Road for all races, including marathon, walk-fun run, and the wheelchair marathon, which starts the ball rolling at 2.30am. There are more details and a route map at www.bkkmarathon.com. www.bangkok101.com
One of the world’s most famous chefs Michel Roux guests at Le Normandie, in the Mandarin Oriental hotel ( 02- 6 59 -9 0 0 0 ) from November 14-19. The three star Michelin grandee of the restaurants Le Gavroche and the Waterside Inn, in England prepares five-course lunches (B5,062 net), sixcourse dinners (B9,416 net) and a special sevencourse wine dinner (B12,830 net) on November 19. The Square Restaurant, in the Novotel Bangkok (02-209-8888) celebrates Thanksgiving Day on November 24, with a buffet selection of traditional American and seafood dishes. Lunch is B650++ and dinner B950++. Both include a free glass of wine. The St Regis Bangkok (02-207-7777) launched its wine bar Decanter last month. It has three rooms with a sleek, clubby interior and 300 wines to pair with its tapas style menu. Bangkok’s very own molecular-style Indian restaurant Gaggan (02652-1700) is now open for lunch, with threeand five-course menus from B450. Billed as “a food tasting market”, Big Bite Bangkok is in the parking lot of the Maduzi Hotel (9/1 Corner of Sukhumvit Soi 16, Ratchadaphisek | 02-615-6400 | www.maduzihotel. com) from 11am-3pm on Sunday November 13 (it was pushed back from the original date, October 16, due to the floods). It works like this: you pay B200 to get in (which goes to charity) and several small scale Bangkok food producers, such as Urban Pantry Bangkok and BKK Bagel Bakery, provide food for you to taste and sell you what you want to buy. The organisers say some of their proceeds will go to In Search of Sanuk, a non-profit organization that runs various programs benefitting the city’s needy.
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restaurant
Events Shrewsbury International School hosts Ploenchit Fair 2011 at its riverside campus on November 26. Along with enjoying the food and drink stalls, live music, games and raffles, be sure to take a bag to carry home all the books, clothes and cosmetics you buy. It runs from 10am to 10pm.
Dance The Contemporary Dance Theatre presents A Love Song, directed and choreographed by Jitti Chompee at PT Gallery and Warp Studio 54 (Charoen Krung Soi 30), from November 18-20 and 26-27. The production is based on the works of French writer Jean Genet. Tickets are B800 from Total Reservation (02-833-5555, www. totalreservation.com) and there are more details at www.18monkeysdancetheatre.com.
Film The 12th Annual Documentary Film Month at Alliance Française (02670-4231) shows five French documentaries, one each Wednesday at 7.30pm throughout November. The films are La Terre de la Folie (Dir: Luc Moullet, Nov 2), La Danse, Le Ballet de l’Opera de Paris (Dir: Frederick Wiseman, Nov 9), Nenette (Dir: Nicolas Philiber, Nov 16), Malraux - Asie (Dir: Nov 23), and Les Arrivants (Dir: Claudine Bories and Patrice Chagnard, Nov 30). Admission free. The 9th World Film Festival of Bangkok brings international silver screen goodies to town from November 4-13. See p.11 for more details.
Oskar Bistro
Lively, pubby Oskar has the electro music and lowceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. A venue for all seasons, with tables jammed, inside and out, and brown paper menus that set a tone of streetsy nonchalance where anyone might feel at home. The food choice includes sandwiches (and the Oskar burger of wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes (French-style individual dishes slow cooked and served in the same pot). Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. The salty goat’s cheese croquettes in Sienna Salad play off toffee-like grilled fig, and a sweet lavender honey dressing on a large bed of crispy salad leaves; the Phuket Salad is packed with crab meat, creamy mango and avocado, with finely-chopped celery, raw onion and pepper adding crunch and earthy tones. For mains, cocotte of spicy shrimp, seabass and squid comes in a spicy tomato, onion and pepper sauce, served with pasta; and delicious prawn and scallop wrapped in bacon are skewered together with a single cube of beef. A dip of cognac and green pepper lends punch. There’s impressive balance in all these dishes, portions are generous, and accompanying wines start at B145 a glass. Oskar is very Soi 11. Close to Bed Supperclub and Q Bar, its own ambient, loungey sounds crank up as the night matures, and – although there’s no dance space – many of the mixed Thai-farang crowd are happy to linger. It’s a good meal and drinks option for a date or business, but also a lively pick-up joint without the pressure of full-on dress-to-kill. Book ahead if you want a table.
ออสการ์ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ. 11
WHERE 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377 OPEN Daily 4pm-2am (kitchen open till 11.30pm) PRICE $$ 8
november 2011
city pulse
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SN C I TAYP S PH U OT L S ES
now in bangkok
Lung Neaw Visits His Neighbours
W
ith the Bangkok International Film Festival still languishing in purgatory, and Hollywood fare hogging the cineplexes, movie goers here are hardly spoilt for choice when it comes to art house and independent film fare. Fortunately, the World Film Festival – a leaner, more dependable festival that’s recently stolen the baton from the BIFF to become Thailand’s longest running – means the cerebral film fiends among us can still find the cinematic nourishment we crave. Running November 4 to 13 at Siam’s Paragon Cineplex and Ratchada’s Esplanade Cineplex, the ninth edition is a tie-up between the Ministry of Culture, the Nation Broadcasting Corporation and the Major Cineplex Group. Much more importantly, the festival is once again in the safe hands of long time director and local arts maven Victor Silakong. This year he’s handpicked 84 silver screen gems that would otherwise never (or only fleetingly) see the light of day here. Lined-up to open the festival on November 4 is the debut feature by Thai director Tongpong Chantarangkul. Originally pitched at the festival’s Produire au Sud film development workshop back in 2008, I Carried You Home tells of two estranged sisters, Pinn and Pann, and their journey home with their mother’s dead body. Other highlights include Werner Herzog’s documentary The Cave of Forgotten Dreams, about ancient and rarely seen cave paintings in Southern France, and the three Thai films recently screened at the 2011 Venice Film Festival. Lung Neaw Visits His Neighbours, the debut feature by acclaimed artist Rirkrit Tiravanijais, is the story of an old man in rural Chiang Mai, while P-047 is a wicked comedy by Kongdej Jaturanrasmee about
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World Film Festival two guys who break into people’s houses while the owners are out. Respected Bangkok Post film critic Kong Rithdee recently called it “one of the best Thai films of the year”. Wattanapume’s short film Passing through the Night will also screen. There will be no director retrospective this year. “Instead we’re going to mark the 50th anniversary of Cannes Film Festival’s Critics’ Week in by screening some of the best films screened in it,” Silakong says, “including the latest, Las Acacias, by Argentinean director Pablo Giorgelli.” However, one director will be on the receiving end of adulation: Hungary’s master of blackand-white cinema, Bela Tarr, will come to pick up the festival’s Lotus Award, and speak at a screening of his latest film, The Turin Horse. To raise awareness of the abilities and potential of people with autism, a strand of the festival has been organised hand in hand with the Autism Awareness Association. “Very moving” is how Silakong sums up his pick For Once In My Life: a cinema verite-style look at the lives of a group of autistic factory workers who perform in a live band in their spare time. city pulse
Of the films appearing across the festival’s five categories (Cine Latino, Cinema Beat, Doc Feast, Short Wave and Asian Contemporary), Silakong also recommends you catch Juliets – a collection of three modern Taiwanese shorts that reinterpret Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet. Also riding high on his hot pick’s list are Marite Ugas’s The Kid Who Lies, about a Venezuelan boy who makes up stories about his missing mother; and a documentary, The Ballad of Genesis and Lady Jaye, about ground-breaking performance artist Genesis Breyer P-Orridge and the daring sexual transformation he underwent to resemble his lover. Closing this 9-day blip of world cinema excellence (and hastening our return to the art-house wilderness for another year) on November 13 will be a projection of Aki Kaurismaki’s rare music documentary Total Balalaika Show, along with live music, in the open space at Ram Indra’s Crystal Design Centre. Max Crosbie-Jones WHERE Paragon Cineplex & Esplanade Cineplex; www.worldfilmbkk.com WHEN November 4 to 13 www.bangkok101.com
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city pulse
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SN C I TAYP S PH U OT L S ES
boutique hotel
Hotel Muse
N
ew hotels open all the time here, every few weeks it seems, so it takes something special to grab our attention. Dressed to the nines in bold, cheeky lashings of faux-Euro classicism, Hotel Muse has managed it. An upscale new 174-room hotel on upmarket Lang Suan Road, it’s neat, faintly art deco exterior segues into a dark and very over-the-top lobby area that wears its inspiration – the late 19th century fin de siècle Europe and King Rama V periods – very much on its sleeve. Wrought iron balustrades, framed oil paintings, chandeliers, cow skin rugs among other throwback art noveau, baroque, colonial and gothic touches abound. Heavy on rich European décor, but low on daylight, the back-lit check-in area with low vaulted ceiling and plush sofas is a highlight, with a spooky antechamber into Count Dracula’s lair vibe.
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city pulse
www.bangkok101.com
Is Hotel Muse a one-trick pony theme hotel with little else to offer? No. While, looks-wise, it may eschew modernity in its efforts to create a faux-turn-of-thecentury atmosphere (one that borders on pastiche at times), look under the period veneer and you’ll find lots of hi-tech gizmos and amenities. To name but a few, staff check you in on laptops; lifts are operated via state-of-theart led panels; and a slick fitness centre, and small infinity pool with wood deck patio inlayed with fibre-optic lights that flash, both sit in wait up on the nineteenth floor. As well as subdued nods to the theme (paisley wall paper, tan wooden chests that resemble steamshipera luggage, etc), rooms and suites are equally well kitted out, featuring 41-inch flat screen tvs, movies on demand and iPod docking stations. Sizes start at a roomy 39m², while other memorable features in these classy, manly abodes with dark wood floors and recessed ceilings include the plump beds with embroidered linen, and a free-standing claw-footed bathtub. Peckish? You’ll need to wait a couple of months before Hotel Muse’s food and drinks outlets are all running at full pelt, but for now you can enjoy Italian in
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the wine-cellar-like basement Medici, or authentic Thai at Su Tha Ross, with its 19th floor views over Lang Suan’s thrusting skyline. By late November you should also be able to savour tipples, cigars and even better views at prohibition-era style rooftop bar, The Speakeasy. What is already up and running is the buffet breakfast – one of the most decadent starts to the day we’ve come across. Over the morning papers, guests get to gorge freely on everything from prime cold cuts of beef pastrami to steaks and eggs Benedictine cooked à la minute. Who can say what promient visitors of the early 20th century would have made of Hotel Muse. Would Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene all have skulked in and spent the afternoon happily knocking back G&Ts in a plush sofa? Or turned on their heels and headed straight back for The Oriental? We can only wonder. What is clear is that Hotel Muse is a lot of fun – a hotel of the future inspired by the past.
รร. โฮเทล มิวส์ ซ.หลังสวน
WHERE 55/555 Langsuan Road, 02-630-4000, www.hotelmusebangkok.com PRICES B5,555 net-35,500++ until 15 Dec 2011
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S N A P S H OT S
history
Vimanmek Mansion
B
angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time,Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Moder n downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic.The core of the new city
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encompasses the Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-
expanding public transpor tation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.
It’s a Record Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise that Guinness World Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots
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chronicle of thailand
A
nti-government demonstrators, protesting since 25 November 2008: August, shut down Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang bringing air travel in and out of the capital PAD protesters to a halt.airports, Seeking the resignation of Prime Minister Somchai Wongsawat, who was seen as a proxy for the exiled former seize Bangkok prime minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD) protesters marched from their base at airports Government House to Bangkok’s two airports, Suvarnabhumi
Air traffic grounded, hundreds of tourists stranded
International and Don Muang, taking over and shutting down both. The group stated that it was seeking to change the governing and electoral process that had empowered the rural masses, whom some PAD members saw as ‘ill-educated’. The takeovers, which lasted roughly a week, trapped hundreds of passengers and forced thousands of others to alter their travel plans. Some airlines began running flights through the military airport at U-Tapao, two hours outside the capital, to evacuate passengers leaving the country. The airport closures represented one of the worst crises in the history of the tourism industry. Siriporn Manoharn, the governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, said the negative effects of the airport closures were greater than that of the tsunami that ravaged the country’s southern provinces in 2004. She said: ‘Even the tsunami was over in just one day.’
Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books B1,450, editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman, www.chronicleofthailand.com www.bangkok101.com
snapshots
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15
S N A P S H OT S Grand Palace
customs
F
oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.
Did you know?
Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.
The Monarchy Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16
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at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.
Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (“never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots
feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.
Temple Etiquette
As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth
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very thai
Drink in a Bag How Thais quench their thirst
M
Photos by Philip Cornwel-Smith
ost drink vendor trolleys filter their tea and coffee through a sock. Ordered hot, it comes in a cup. Decanted over ice, it can be taken away – in a bag. Shaved ice chills the tea or coffee while it’s poured into a handled plastic bag. Gloops of condensed milk further sweeten the brew before handover. Stick in a straw – plus another for your friend – and you’re off. Same goes for juices, shakes and sodas. Suited to mobile modern lifestyles, the pendulous bag makes a steady vessel while on the move. Just don’t try to sit it down… look for a hook! “Until two or three decades ago almost every Thai drank from a metal bowl,” recalls cultural pundit Paothong Thongchua. “The metal depended on your class.” Just as people share food, they supped from the same container, as some older Thais still do. Fashion and concern about germs led to cups of glass, ceramic or plastic, though you can still spot the aluminium bowllike cup, especially upended upon a communal tub of iced water. The public drinking fountain has never caught on. People see them being used as standpipes for washing hands, dishes and much else. But since Thais prefer their drinks shared, they still happily sip from the same metal cup or plastic bag. Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith
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snapshots
november 2011
17
SIGHTSEEING
temples
setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.
วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผัง่ ตะวันตกของแม่นำ้ เจ้าพระยา
their teeth.
THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang| 02222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm| B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.
WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Hike up its 318 steps and this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside.
WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.
พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแก้ว ถ.หน้าพระลาน (ใกล้สนามหลวง)
WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the 18
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วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์
WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free This 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect is also an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines, amulets and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism here are available in English.
วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง
WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture,Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai era statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in sightseeing
วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า
วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร
WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tones and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million. Within the compound, the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre is an accessible museum detailing the history of the area and its settlers.
วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)
WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www. watpho.com | 8amnoon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can learn this ancient healing art.
วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน
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JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) The home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of Thai silk, is a must see. In a sundappled tropical garden beside a pungent canal, six traditional teak houses brim with the art and antiques he rescued from around Asia: from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Regular group tours led by silk-clad female guides introduce you to these exquisite treasures and the life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.
บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by
appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.
บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้
VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-2811569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display,
historic homes including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ
ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ
WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี
SHRINES GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Quite possibly Thailand and พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ the world’s most recognisable TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Hindu deity due Outside Centralworld and Isetan to its distinctive Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd appearance, If your love life is ailing then this a silent prayer in front of this potshrine is for you: bellied gold elephant – the son of at 9.30pm each Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get Thursday it’s the creative juices flowing, as well as rumoured that protect you from harm. Aside from Lord Trimurti marigold garlands, Ganesha is thought descends from the heavens to answer to be partial to bananas, ripe mango prayers of the heart. To maximise your and sticky rice-flour Thai desserts, so chances, offer nine red incense sticks, make sure you prepare the correct foodstuffs accordingly. red candles, red roses and fruit.
Apart from all the Buddhist temples, Bangkok is also studded with small shrines dedicated to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks.
entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.
ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom The swarming shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main
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พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing
พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์
november 2011
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SIGHTSEEING The National Museum
museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.
พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง
MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02-6222599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am6pm | B300 (free between 4-6pm) A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 20
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ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.
restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.
สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย
พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์
พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43
Museum of Siam
sightseeing
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museum focus
MUSEUM OF SIAM
T
his is not one of those boring museums that you itch to leave after five minutes. Located in an old government building near Wat Po, the Museum of Siam is an interactive and hands-on place that you can happily lose a few hours in, as you attempt to discover the answer to the question: What is Thai-ness? Beginning with a slick video that asks this very question, this permanent exhibition takes you on a journey that spans Thailand’s pre-history to its tomorrow and, along the way, opens you up to its diversity of cultures and sponge-like nature. Only, instead of inch-thick glass and ‘Don’t Touch!’ signs, everywhere you stroll in this elegantly restored 1920s-era building there are hi-tech videos, animations, flashing touch screens and digital interactive games. Take the opening Suvarnabhumi rooms. Here you learn about Southeast Asia as it was thousands of years ago, long before there were national borders, via details of archaeological finds, cartoon animations and Benetton-ad like displays of the five different ethnic tribes thought to have existed then. Later, there are exhibits on
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everything from Buddhism and ancient capital Ayutthaya to war, village life and Westernisation during King Rama V’s era. And again, it’s interactive all the way: you can watch videos featuring actors in loin cloths, blow up Burmese soldiers with a giant canon (a bit tasteless that one), get touchy feely with some bamboo crafts or dress up as a 20th century Thai nobleman. Hell, there’s even a old fashioned newscaster stand where you can break news of the latest coup or slice of state propaganda to the nation, not to mention a replica ‘60s diner, where you can puts tune on a jukebox, buy some khao pad American or get your photo taken with movie icon Mitr Chaibancha (albeit a cardboard cutout version). Staying true to its interactive and playful approach, the museum ends by inviting Thais to write their hopes and dreams for the future of Thailand on a digital monitor. As these are projected onto a large wall in the shape of thought bubbles, Thais leave pondering the evolution of their country, and the role they have to play in its future. sightseeing
Aside from all this, the building is also a sight in itself. Designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s favourite Italian architect, Mario Tamagno, the threestorey building is an elegant blend of towering Romanesque columns, terracotta paint and teak floors. Note also that although the Museum of Siam was designed to lure Thais away from the malls, great efforts have been made to make it attractive to foreign visitors too. The text throughout – from the exhibits and map to the games, videos and lovely souvenir book available in the bookshop – is written in decent English as well as Thai. For more on the Museum of Siam project a website run by design company Story! Inc, which created the content and conceptual design for the museum, provides a good roomby-room overview of what to expect. See www.museumofsiamproject.com.
สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ข้างโรงเรียนตัง้ ตรงจิตรพาณิชยการ
WHERE 4 Sanamchai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th OPEN Tue – Sun 10am – 6pm PRICE B300 november 2011
21
SIGHTSEEING
parks & zoos FLORA BANG KRACHAO Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan, 02-461-0972. Daily 6am-8pm Often referred to as the ‘Lung of Bangkok’, it’s almost hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included in this park is the 200-rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for 30 baht. Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down to the Bang Nam Pueng Floating Market.
บางกระเจ้า พระประแดง
JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Road, Ladyao, Jatujak, 02-272-4358. Daily 5am6.30pm. Free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Par k has a pret ty botanical garden. สวนจตุจก ั รและ สวนสมเด็จ
พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร
LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Roads. Free The biggest and most popular slice of green in Central Bangkok. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the 22
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Queen Sirikit Park
front of which a grand statue of King Rama VI stands watchful guard. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4
ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Road, behind Seri Center, Pravet, 02-328-1972. Daily 5.30am-7pm. B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
SARANROM PARK (map A3) Intersection of Rachini and Charoenkrung Roads, Phra Nakhon. Daily 5am-8pm. Free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
สวนสราญรมย์ แยกราชินี ถ.เจริญกรุง
สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังพาราไดส์ พาร์ค) ประเวศ
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (Suan Sampram) (off map) 32 Phet Kasem Road, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom, 03-4322544; www.rosegardenriverside.com Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf course, spa, organic farm and botanical gardens.
โรสการ์เด้น ริเวอร์ไซด์ สวนสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม sightseeing
Rama IX Royal Park
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Kids in the city Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.84) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones. The city’s parks (see opposite) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.88), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. If you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www. bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old.
Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000sqm of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent on-site café for lunch and a small branch of Mothercare.
ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26
FAUNA BANGKOK BUTTERFLY GARDEN (map D1) Kamphaeng Phet 3 Road, Jatujak, 02272-4359. Tue-Sun & Public Holidays 8.30am-4.30pm. Free This dome-enclosed sanctuary houses over 500 species of butterflies fluttering freely in the mazes of the landscaped gardens, with their wild flowers, canopied benches, ponds and waterfalls. Besides butterflywatching, visitors can picnic or rent a bicycle for around B30. อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ
สวนรถไฟ ถ.เพชรเกษม จตุจักร
DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Road, opposite Chitralada Palace, Dusit, 02-281-2000. Daily 8am-6pm. Adults B100, children B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. There’s also a lake with paddle boats for rent. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 www.bangkok101.com
QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (SNAKE FARM) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Road, Henri Dunant, 02-252-0161-4 ext.120. Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9.30 am-12pm (shows at 11am & 2.30pm). B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is open to the public. There’s an informative slide show followed by live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)
SIAM OCEAN WORLD (map C3) B/F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, 02-687-2001; www.siamoceanworld. com. Daily 10am-7pm. B650-B850 There’s fun to be had here, with 8 metre high tanks, glass tunnels to walk through, and shark-feeding shows. A ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs an extra fee.
สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1
ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย
SAMPHRAN ELEPHANT GROUND & ZOO (off map) Petkasem Road Km 30, Samphan, Nakhon Pathom, 02-295-2938; www.elephantshow.com. Daily 8.30am5.30pm. Adults B550, children B350 Apart from The Elephant Theme Show, watch the Crocodile Wrestling Show or ride on an elephant’s back through the tropical gardens and waterfalls
ลานแสดงช้างและฟาร์มจระเข้สามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม สามพราน sightseeing
Samphran Elephant
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T R AV E L
hotel deals
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Whether you’re thinking about taking a trip ‘upcountry’ to the jungles of the north, heading on a trip to the little travelled northeast, or planning a weekend on an island in the sun, we’ve uncovered the best of this month’s hotel deals
Until Dec 20 Triple Night Delight Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, Bang Tao Beach, Phuket, 076-362-999; dtlprsvn@dusit.com; http://dusitthanilagunaphuket.dusit.com With the ‘Triple Night Delight’ package stay three nights for the price of two at the DusitThani Laguna Phuket, a sprawling luxury resort tucked away on Phuket island’s Bang Tao Beach. Rates start at B8,200++ net per night, and must be paid on confirming your booking. Guests enjoy access to health and fitness centres, spas, child care centres and the championship 18-hole Laguna Phuket golf course.
Until Dec 20 Stay 5 pay 4 Zeavola Resort, Phi Phi Island, 075627-024; reservation@zeavola.com; www.zeavola.com Phi Phi Island’s rustic yet upscale Zeavola resort is offering a ‘Stay 5 pay 4 promotion’ when you book a Pool Villa Suite. Book a four nights stay in one of these secluded villas with panoramic ocean views, private swimming pool and sunbathing deck before December 20 and you get one extra night free. The rate of B20,900 per night includes breakfast for two persons at Baxil restaurant and complimentary Wi-Fi.
Until Dec 23 I Love Pavilion Package Sheraton Pattaya Resort, 437 Phra Tamnak Road, Pattaya; 038-259-888; sheraton.com/pattaya With the ‘I love Pavilion’ package you can stay in the Sheraton Pattaya Resort’s Deluxe Pavilion Rooms, with their outdoor Thai pavilions blessed with scenic views of tropical gardens and the ocean, for vastly reduced rates. Prices start from B8,000++ per room per night for a Deluxe Pavilion Garden Room and from B9,200++ for a Deluxe Pavilion Ocean Room. A minimum stay of two nights is required.
Until Dec 24 Introductory Rates Centara Anda Dhevi Resort & Spa Krabi, 182 Moo 3 Tambol Ao-Nang, 02 101 1234 ext 1; reservations@chr.co.th; www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cak Krabi province’s new Centara Anda Dhevi Resort & Spa Krabi is offering special rates that include breakfast if you stay a minimum of five nights. Until then a Deluxe Garden room is B3,510, per night, a Deluxe Pool room B3,870 and a Deluxe Pool Access room B4,320. The sprawling tropical resort sits just 100 metres from Nopparat Thara Beach.
Until Feb 2012 Celebrate Royal Flora Ratchaphruek U Chiang Mai, 70 Ratchadamnoen Road, 053-327-000; reserve@ uchiangmai.com; www.uchiangmai.com To help lure you to Chiang Mai’s Royal Flora Ratchaphruek 2011 flower shower, the U Chiang Mai Hotel is offering rates of B3,999++ for a minimum of three nights stay and B4,199++ for a minimum of two nights stay in a Superior room. These include breakfast, wi-fi internet, and free use of the hotel’s bicycles. Deal not valid between Dec 25-Jan 5.
Until March 2012 Blossom Package The Dewa Koh Chang, Klong Prao Beach,02-261-6364; rsvn@ thedewakohchang.com; www. thedewakohchang.com On Koh Chang’s Klong Prao Beach, this rustic-chic resort’s Blossom Package includes two-nights in a Deluxe room (54m²), plus breakfast, welcome barbeque dinner, a Thai set lunch, and complimentary leisure activity. Transfers, a two-hour kayak service and wireless internet also included. Rates start from B14,000 net per sharing couple.
november 2011
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In Bloom
upcountry now
The rolling hills and valleys of Mae Hong Son, near the border with Burma, turn to gold every November, when the snappily titled Dok Bua Tong Giant Wild Mexican Sunflower (or Tithonia Diversifolia) blooms. You can spot them at Doi Mae U-kor mountain peak, in Mae Hong Son’s Khun Yuam district, until early December.
Loy Krathong Festival Craft a tiny krathong (lantern) made of banana-tree trunk. Adorn it with flowers, joss sticks, candles and a coin. Then set it adrift into the nearest stream or river and float away the troubles of the past year. These are the basics of Loy Krathong. Add thousands of rapt participants, food, the obligatory Miss Loy Krathong beauty pageant and you have Thailand’s most beguiling nationwide festival. This year the ancient nighttime tradition, thought to be of Indian Brahmin origin, will be celebrated nationwide on Thursday November 10. Some of the prettiest locales to enjoy it include ancient capital, Sukhothai, which hosts a grand sound and light show. Others include Chiang Mai City, which puts an aerial spin on proceedings by launching Khome-Loi, or Lanna-style floating lanterns, into the heavens; and remote Tak province, where locals float coconut shells down the Mae Ping River.
Live Music Grammy award-winning tunesmith Jason Mraz will make his Thai debut with a one-night only acoustic evening at Korat province’s Bonanza Khao Yai Resort on November 5. The singer behind the Billboard smash hit “I’m Yours” will perform alongside his longtime friend, percussionist Noel “Toca” Rivera. Tickets, B2,000, are available at Thaiticketmajor.com and all 52 branches of Thailand Post in Bangkok.
Lopburi Monkey Banquet
On November 27 the Lopburi town will say thanks to its 3,000 strong long-tailed macaque population for all the tourists dollars they attract with a vegetarian banquet that attracts, you guessed it, lots of tourist dollars. This annual simian free-for-all takes place around the spectacular three-spired Phra Prang Sam Yot temple and usually attracts around 10,000 onlookers. A beautiful Buddhist shrine converted from a 13th century Hindu temple, it’s on Vichayen Road, about 200 metres from the railway station.
Phimai Festival Long-tail boat races and a light and sound show are the showpieces of the Phimai Festival, staged around the wellpreserved Khmer ruins of Phimai Historical Park each evening between November 9-13, but there’s also a handicraft sale and a Siamese cat competition.
River Kwai Bridge Week The sounds of simulated air raid sirens and swooping Allied bombers will reverberate across Kanchanaburi’s night sky during this annual festival, which honours the infamous River Kwai Bridge and the WWII POWs who died building it. Though contrived, this nightly light and sound show is actually very poignant, especially when a mist covers the river. Running November 25-December 6, show times are 7:30pm Mon-Thurs, and 7:30pm and 9pm on Fri-Sat & Dec 5. Tickets cost B100-300 and are available on arrival.
Surin Elephant Roundup Though Surin rarely features on tourist itineraries, this event on November 19-20 is a big annual draw. Renowned as skilful elephant handlers since the Khmer wars, Surin locals put on a grand show featuring the most iconic animal in Thailand. See Festival Focus on p.26 for more. www.bangkok101.com
travel
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T R AV E L
festival focus
CHANGLAND
T
he town of Surin is a sleepy provincial capital of some 40,000 folks with one main street and a decent night market, and not a major tourist destination. However, on the third weekend of every November, the city roars to life with the arrival of the annual Elephant Roundup. The Asian elephant is highly revered in Thai culture, as both a working asset and as an international symbol of the Kingdom. It has been depicted in art, architecture, and literature, and shown as an auspicious symbol of the King. In Ban Tha Klang, a small village some 60 kilometres from Surin, elephants have been raised and trained for ages by their mahouts, members of the Kui tribe, originally coming from Cambodia. Famed for capturing, domesticating, and training wild elephants, the Kui have taught the animals to become providers, work companions, and lifelong friends. 26
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The Surin Elephant Roundup Stampedes into Town
Elephants were traditionally used in battle, and the Elephant Roundup, which has been held since 1960, is one of Thailand’s top festivals and tourist draws, and features the mighty beasts showing off some of their talents and prowess, not to mention often humorous sides. Upon arrival at Surin’s train station during the festival, one can opt for an elephant ride rather than a taxi to get to one’s hotel, as the elephants get free
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n TRAVEL TIPS The Elephant Roundup happens the third weekend of November, taking place this year on November 19-20. The main events happen at Srinarong Stadium, from about 8:30am until noon.
reign and run of the town for several days. The main events take place on Saturday and Sunday mornings at the Elephant Stadium, where the big changs start off by doing acrobatic stunts, playing basketball, and painting t-shirts, amongst other novelties. As the morning heats up, the elephants engage in football and polo competitions, with a lot of betting and general hooting and hollering going on from the much appreciating spectators who line both sides of the field. Lighter antics include clown performances, and stunts like an “us versus elephant� tug of war, in which thirty or forty of Surin’s strongest young men take on a single elephant in a tug of war. Needless to say, the elephants always win! Following the fun stuff, the roundup then offers a chance to see mahouts tending their charges, washing them down, feeding them, and performing traditional ceremonies like phi pakarn, a ritual done to fend off danger during roundups of wild elephants. As elephants were a vital part of ancient warfare, the grand finale of the festival involves elaborately crafted mock battles in full traditional costume, with elephants leading the respective armies into their forays. In addition to these activities, there is also a local beauty pageant (Miss Elephant 2011?!), colourful parades, and rides available on the backs of the mighty beasts, not to mention photo sessions with the babies. Just as appealing as the festival itself are the accompanying parties and celebrations that take place all over town. Residents of Isaan are famed for their hospitality and one will invariably be invited for shots of whiskey, baskets of sticky rice, and maybe even offered a few fried bugs, which are a big hit and local specialty in the central market. Words and photos by Dave Stamboulis
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Tickets for the festival are priced at B800, B500 and B300, and can be reserved in advance, a good option if wanting the better grandstand seats (Surin Provincial Office, 044-512-039 for reservations and other information). n STAY Often booked way in advance, the festival is a huge draw amongst both Thais and foreigners. The Thong Tarin Hotel (60 Sirirat Rd, 044-514-281-8), has rooms from B1500-4800 baht, while The Sangthong Hotel (279-281 Tanasan Rd, 044-512-009) has decent rooms at the bargain price of B220350, depending on the amenities. n GETTING THERE Surin is reached by either train or bus from Bangkok (about 8 hours and B390 by bus, and maybe an hour longer and a bit cheaper by train, a very pleasant ride through some nice countryside). Getting around Surin is easy, as most of the town can be navigated on foot, although there will likely be an elephant and mahout on every corner eagerly waiting to give you a lift!
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T R AV E L
upcountry escape
CHIANG KHAN
T
he darling of the Thai tourist scene over the past year or so, featuring high on almost every local’s must visit list, is a little town in the northeast called Chiang Khan. It’s a speck of an old trading settlement with a history stretching back to Laos fiefdoms, a fresh market, and a pretty stretch of sluggish Mekong River creeping past its back doorstep, but the real reason for its surge in popularity is more calculated… over the past couple of years it’s riverside stretch of rustic teak-plank shophouses has been sentimentally‘retro-fied’, turned into a money spinning toytown that says more about Thai notions of nostalgia and cutesiness than it does Isaan, or the real Chiang Khan. Take evenings along Chai Khong Road, its main riverside walking street. Sepia lighting lends each storefront a warm honeyed glow, while rusting bicycles, cute road signs and gleaming Vespas – the Chiang Khan motifs of choice – placed in front of them make the temptation to pull out your DSLR and start snapping away irresistable. Inside the shopfronts the continues, with assemblages of old TVs, transistor radios and other retro-themed props, or t-shirts, postcards and other tourist tat emblazoned with vacuous slogans imploring you to “Love Loei” or “Remember Chiang Khan”. The end result is a succession of cutesy Kodak moments that soon begin to look as repetitive as the background in an old Flintstones cartoon. Yet, oddly, for all its tacked-on nostalgia geared 28
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towards getting you to empty your pockets, Chiang Khan does have a charm about it… For starters, it’s hard not to get sucked into the laidback vibe of the place. Unlike most Thai tourist traps, namely those aimed at westerners, evenings here are spent sedately b r o w s i n g bohemian shops, scribbling on artsy postcards and sitting around in cute cafes and restaurants, not getting off your face on cheap beer and happy pizzas. Instead of blaring reggae tunes, here you are more likely to hear the dulcet tones of Plearn Promdan or some other Thai folk legend drifting down the street. Explore and you’ll find also that not every shop here overflows with merchandise that has no connection to the region whatsoever.
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Stores, like Hearnnoy (between Soi 9 and 10) and Hearn Roi Pii (Soi 12-13), to name just two of the many, stock cheap locally-made pha khao mar – a tartanlike traditional fabric worn by rural folk – and lots of fetching variations on it, including blankets, scarves and trendy bags. Sandwiched between all the pastel-toned boho coffeeshops and souveneir shops are also lots of modestly priced bijou guesthouses and family run homestays (see Stay). Many offer riverside views from their terraces or backyards. Others have friendly owners who’ll leave their front doors ajar at night, so you can creep in unseen (if not unheard – as we discovered on returning home late one night, stepping on the wrong floorboard can make the whole house creak). Food is another highlight. Stalls serving snacky fare line the sides in the evenings while restaurants, such as Rabiang (See Eat) serve fantastic local soups, salads and other dishes featuring fish hauled straight out of the Mekong. As for authentic local culture this is somewhat harder to find. Pretty much the only remnants we found were a shophouse filled with a hulking film projector, old posters and vinyl seats salvaged from the town’s long extinct old cinema. Others include the fresh market, on Soi 10, and the Buddhist alms ceremony at dusk each morning, when local monks parade barefooted down the main street
to receive donations of sticky rice (though this is almost as obsessively photographed as the retro-romantic scenery). Chiang Khan is also a good base from which to cruise Loei’s hinterland. Snaking east towards Nong Khai, Highway 211 may well be one of the prettiest stretches of road in the country, yielding widescreen vistas of untamed stretches of the Mekong, and passing through dusty riverside towns like Sang Khom. The surrounding region is also strewn with temples that aren’t just used as car parks (as many seem to be in Chiang Khan), many displaying a strong Laotian, and even French colonial, influence. Even closer to town, just a couple of kms north, more idle Mekong watching also can be enjoyed at the Kaeng Kut Kuu rapids. Spending the afternoon here, watching the sun slowly drop behind the jungle-clad hills of Laos as the river bubbles over the smooth rocks and fisherman fling their nets off boats, might not offer quite as much camera-candy as Chiang Khan proper, but it is closer to the real Loei. >>
Kaeng Kut Kuu
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T R AV E L
Rabiang
n EAT It ain’t much to look at, but Rabiang has an open-sided Heon Luang Homestay & Restaurant terrace that eyeballs the river and is one of the best restaurants in town. Dishes we wolfed down included a delicious laab pla (spicy minced fish), but there’s lots more on the menu. For more atmosphere, head to Heon Luang Homestay & Restaurant (between Soi 12-13, 04-282-1046) , which is by far the busiest eatery on Chai Khong Road in the evenings, when families and big groups fill its rambling white-walled interior filled with shelves of old 20-century jetsam, and statues of Chinese deities. Also backing onto Chiang Khan’s riverside pedestrian path, the food from northeastern soups like gaeng om nua to their soups, salads and steamed fish. A grandpa also sells fresh salapaow (steamed Chinese buns) each morning; a delicious bargain at B15 for three of them.
Tao Kae Laow
Suneta Guesthouse
n STAY Charming bijou guesthouses housed in spruced up teak buildings abound in Chiang Khan, most lining Chai Khong Road and the perpendicular sois off it. One of the most fetching, Suneta Guesthouse(near Soi 15, www. suneta.net, 086-999-9218) has five simple rooms decorated in old movie posters and framed stills of onscreen legends like Mitr Chiabancha and Sorapong Chatree, as well as a backyard where you can kick back in bamboo chairs and admire the views across the Mekong into the thick, green Laos wilderness. Another is Tao Kae Lao (near Soi 5, 08-1311-9754), which is filled with antique bric-a-brac downstairs and has three simple rooms, one with a river balcony, upstairs. Max Crosbie-Jones
Chiang Khan Loei
n GETTING THERE Try flying to Udon Ratchathani, hiring a car and driving on a loop via Nong Khai province to Chiang Khan. Air Asia (www.airasia.com) fly to Udon daily and Avis have an outlet near the airpot’s arrivals area. Suneta Guesthouse
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Suneta Guesthouse
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T R AV E L Fort Santiago’s main gate
over the border
Rizal Monument
MANILA
San Agustin Church
A
Casa Manila
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sk travelers in Bangkok to name you an alternative regional metropolis that’s worth visiting, and most would suggest Singapore, Hong Kong, Seoul or maybe even Kuala Lumpur. Few, however, would think to recommend a long weekend in Philippines’ sprawling capital. Why is Manila given the cold shoulder? Despite being only three hours away by air some travellers are put off by its location, well out of the SE Asian traveler loop; others by its reputation for being an unattractive if not dangerous destination. While both these notions may have been warranted in the past, times have definitely changed. At least four carriers now fly between both cities and offer bargain fares. On top of that, although Manila remains a developing metropolis where the infrastructure struggles to cope with a population estimated at over 11 million people, the last decade has seen a big drive by the national and local governments, along with private partners, to scrub up the capital and its image. Unless you go flashing your cash in a bad part of town, crime these days is rare. Most importantly of all, although the Filipino capital lacks the cosmopolitan character of, say Hong Kong or Singapore, visitors enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere than its Asian counterparts. travel
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This comes from the festive nature of the Filipinos. Influenced by centuries of Mexican-Spanish rule, Filipinos enjoy poetry, romance but also karaoke and fun. Nightlife in the districts of Malate and Makati is among the best in the region. And thanks to over 50 years of “colonial” rule by the United States – a period euphemistically referred to as the “Commonwealth time” by most Americans – over 90% of Filipinos are fluent in English. They even master it with the purest American accent, which certainly helps avoid misunderstandings with locals. n THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS With its chaotic traffic and crowded streets, brash Manila doesn’t make the best first impression. However, this densely populated city, which is divided into districts, each of them with their own power to administrate, readily reveals its treasure to curious visitors. First head for the oldest district, Intramuros, where the city’s historical heart still beats. The first settlement along the Pasig River, Intramuros at the peak of its powers had the reputation for being invincible, all thanks to a 4.2km long network of thick defensive walls. Despite being heavily bombed during World War II, it retains much of its authentic atmosphere all thanks to the reconstruction that has taken place since the seventies. Fort Santiago, with its superb Spanish gate, was faithfully rebuilt. The fort has since been converted into a Shrine for Freedom, with an exhibition retracing the life of Filipino hero and poet Jose Rizal, who was locked up inside it in the days before his execution in 1896. Many new houses were also constructed following historical plans, while the Ayuntamiento Building (City Hall), next to Manila Cathedral, has been rebuilt. Perhaps the most superb example of a “new” ancient-style building is the Casa Manila, next to San Agustin Church. The brainchild of Imelda Marcos, the notorious shoe-hoarding former wife of dictator Ferdinand Marcos, Casa Manila is a superb Spanish mansion done out with authentic furniture and décor salvaged from vanished ancient Manila houses. The complex also hosts a small hotel – and the Barbara restaurant, where you can enjoy typical Filipino shows with your dinner. Next door, San Agustin was the only building which
Binondo Church
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Interior of San Agustin survived the inferno of bombs the rained down in WWII. Today the church is listed by UNESCO world heritage as being one of the best preserved examples of Filipino baroque City Hall and museums architecture. Walking along the thick walls of the fortress, visitors arrive at another well preserved gate, the Puerta de Isabell II. Facing the grand and palatial former Customs House (or Intendencia), the majestic structure sits in ruins, waiting in earnest to host the National Archives. Across the Pasig River, the Binondo district also boasts some interesting heritage. Traditionally home to the Chinese community, Binondo retains an old fashioned character. There’s a magnificent Baroque church. And on aimless strolls along its streets lined with old shops, one encounters a small number of buildings from the early US years, each one graced with art nouveau or art deco details (especially in Juan Luna Street). These can be traced back to the Commonwealth Era, when Americans dreamed of turning Manila into a model city. With this ambitious goal in mind, in 1904 they enlisted Daniel Burnham, a famous US architect who designed the Chicago Columbian Exposition as well as New York’s pioneering Flatiron skyscraper. Today Rizal Park and its surrounding streets are the only reminders of his planned civic centre. Filled with statues and monuments, the park is surrounded by majestic neo-classical structures, such as the former Congress building (now the Philippines National Gallery of Art) and the former departments of Agriculture and Finance (now the Department of Tourism and the Museum of Filipino People respectively). Manila Bay is also a testimony to the profligate Marcos years. On reclaimed land, the Philippines’ most infamous couple built a series of gigantic constructions, including the Philippines Cultural Center, the International Convention Center and the Sofitel Philippine Plaza. The latter is a grand, elegant structure with a unique resort atmosphere thanks to its gardens, its huge swimming pool and open views over Manila Bay. However, the district has become increasingly popular thanks to the presence of the Mall of Asia. As the grandiose name suggests, this shopping centre piles on the superlatives: it’s the third largest in the world, and the first in Asia to have over 400,000m² of space spread over four floors. >>
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T R AV E L Makti’s glitzy skyline
n MONEYED MAKATI More discerning travellers might prefer shopping in the city’s moneyed Makati district. Showcasing Manila’s middle-classes and their growing purchasing power, Makati is the ‘Wall Street of the Philippines’, hoarding most of the country’s financial institutions and international headquarters. Despite evoking a typical American downtown, its main artery, Ayala road, with its glitzy towers, swish shopping centres and fancy chain hotels such as the Shangri-La (see Stay), is the sophisticated social hub for Manila’s jet set. Greenbelt Mall is the most pleasant of its shopping centres. Here, shoppers stroll under the shade of the trees that line the heart of the mall. And in the evenings, Manila’s youth swarm the restaurant’s terraces as hundreds of bulbs hung in the trees envelop the night with their soft glow. Another highlight of Greenbelt – one not to be missed – is the superb Ayala Museum, with its extraordinary collection of pre-Colonial gold pieces. Two other museums can also be visited in the district: the Museum Ng Makati, located in an old mansion, traces the history of the district through temporary exhibitions; and the Museum Yuchengco displays the collections of distinguished Filipino businessman, diplomat and patron of the arts Alfonso T. Yuchengco. At night in the Greenbelt area a more hip and free city emerges. Regulars of Bangkok’s Bed SupperClub will enjoy the white minimalist ambiance of Bed Space Club. And Temple Bar offers you the chance to get to know a more ‘Metrosexual’ Manila! 34
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n STAY Shangri La have five properties across the country, but the company’s flagship is still the Shangri La Makati (Ayala Avenue/Makati Avenue, Makati City 1200; (63 2) 813 8888; www.shangri-la.com), an award-winning property which still retains its popularity among travellers more than 20 years after it opened. The hotel has 699 spacious guest rooms and suites, each offering views over Makati. The stylish Horizon Floor has over 110 rooms with a lounge offering breakfast as well as cocktails, and there are four international restaurants –including one Chinese and one Japanese – and private lounges at your disposal. The hotel is like a small city, with its own health club, outdoor swimming pool, outdoor tennis courts as well as its signature spa and massage facility. Near Manila historical centre, along Roxas Boulevard, the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila (CCP Complex Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City 1300; (63 2) 551 5555; www. sofitelmanila.com) is well known for its excellent service and, above all, its amazing tropical gardens. These, along with the lagoon-style swimming pool and waterfront, offer stunning views at sunset. The poolside Sunset bar in the garden offers famous nightly seafood barbecues. Rooms have recently been renovated in a minimalist style and offer plenty of space in which to relax. The Club Sofitel Floor is a hotel within the hotel with great views over Manila Bay. Luc Citrinot
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Shangri La Makati
n GETTING THERE Philippine Airlines, Thai Airways, Cebu Pacific and Kuwait Airways all fly Bangkok to Manila daily. AirAsia Philippines announced that it will soon fly to Clark Airport. Philippine Airlines (PAL) flies the most frequently – three times a day – and has the adventage of exclusive use of Manila’s convenient Terminal 2. www.bangkok101.com
A rRT ts S
exhibitions
Enjoy these highlights from our sister publication the Bangkok Art Map (www.bangkokartmap.com). BAM is a free city map containing insights into Thailand’s burgeoning arts scene
Until Nov 5 Ant(arctic)a
La Lanta Fine Art, 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-260-5381, 02204-0583 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment | www.lalanta. com | BTS Phrom Phong Few can claim to have as much experience of the Arctic and Antarctic as Australian Stephen Eastaugh and Argentinian Carolina Furque. Independently this intrepid husband and wife have ventured to the top and bottom of the world to capture the stunning desolate expanses of some of the planet’s last surviving wildernesses. Capturing the polar light phenomenon of the Aurora Australis, Eastaugh’s ethereal colour shots of the Antarctic are mystical in their suspended dreamlike atmosphere.They evoke the humbling isolation of the frozen terrains that reduces humanity to insignificance. In the northern Arctic around Greenland, Furque uses her Russian Holga camera to capture monochromatic stills of the dark and mysterious, remote and melancholic. A viewfinder into a distant realm, the sheen of her old camera and the developing techniques she employs create a blurring of reality and fantasy that contributes a mood of intimate memory.
Until Nov 5 Between the Lines
Until Nov 6
Numthong Gallery, Room 109, Bangkok Co-op Building, Toeddamri Rd | 02-243-4326 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm | www. rama9art.org/gallery/numthong/ | BTS Ari Meticulously drafted, the intricate intertwining line drawings of young female artist Jiratchaya Pripwai are both seductive and mesmerising. Resembling delicately embroidered flowing fabrics, the labour intensive monochrome drawings are developed from an automatic writing technique that explores a blurring between the conscious and subconscious.
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Tales of Love & Betrayal: A Modern Retelling of the Ramayana
Serindia Gallery, OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 | 02238-6410 | Tue-Sun 11am8pm I serindiagallery@ gmail.com A hugely influential epic, poet Valmiki’s tale the Ramayana was penned over two millennia ago and has inspired many mythologies, including Thailand’s own literary adaptation the Ramakien. The Hindu classic has been given contemporary relevance through interpretations by the three Indian artists, Anand Gadapa, Nirmala Biluka, and one of the pioneers of Indian modern art, M.F. Husain.
ar ts
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Until Nov 10 Bitumen, Gold, Opium & Crows
WTF Gallery & Café, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 I 02-662-6246 I Wed – Sun 3-10pm I www.wtfbangkok.com I BTS Thonglor After last year’s exhibition of 48 Portraits Of God, Bangkok-based British artist Justin Mills returns with a new series of paintings inspired by the music of American singer-songwriter Tom Waits. Still intrigued by the symbolic materials of earthy bitumen and ethereal gold, these latest compositions attempt a new kind of image that he hopes can be heard as well as seen.
Until Nov 19 Memoir of Imprinted Imageries
Galerie N, 139/5 Wireless Rd | 02-654-0522 | Tue-Sun 10am- 7pm | www.galerienbangkok.com | MRT Lumphini Exotic images of local existence enrich the beautiful wood cut reliefs of female artist Neungrutai Puekpean. Depicting nostalgic scenes of an idealised way of life with scenes of temples, stilted houses, and riverboats, the tactile decorous wood surfaces are born from childhood memories.
Until Nov 27 Songs of the City: Michael Lee & Olivier Pin-Fat
H Gallery, 201 Soi 12 Sathorn Rd | 081-310-4428 | 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment | www.hgallerybkk.com I BTS Surasak The pairing of Singapore-based Michael Lee and Bangkok resident British artist Olivier Pin-Fat explores the architecture of the urban environment from different perspectives. Lee’s fantastical detached analytical renderings of impossible structures contrast with Pin-Fat’s disrupted experiential photographs of the city.
Until Dec 29 Sooksunt’s World: A Land of Peace
g23, SWUNIPLEX Fl2-3, Srinakarinwirot University, 114 Sukhumvit Soi 23 I 02-649-5000 #5005 I Tue-Sun 11am-6pm (except public holidays) I http:// g23.swu.ac.th I BTS Asok A peer of National Artist Tawee Ratchaneekorn, Sooksunt Muennirut, or Santipap Nako as he is also known, was an arts student and then teacher during the turbulent political period of the early-to-mid 1970s. Imprisoned for being subversive against the government, Sooksunt’s art is passionate towards social causes and injustices affecting fellow countrymen.
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art 1-on-1
Bangkok is a hotbed of creative energy, be it in the fields of fashion, music, entertainment, or art. Each month we meet with a talented artist, local or international, currently exhibiting in the capital to discuss their work and views the artist to tackle the wider issues surrounding natural disasters. We then looked for artists and designers, especially young and emerging ones, who we thought could create a work that would express and develop the themes of the story in a captivating and engaging way.
Do you think artists and designers can offer any real practical solutions to environmental threats? I think the arts can reflect social problems and stimulate society through its creativity. Let’s Panic is an art exhibition that aims to build consciousness about You cannot environment problems. Some change the of the works in this exhibition environment are just inspired by the Bangkok almost found itself submerged last month. With an without changing idea that the city is sinking, increase in these sorts of natural disasters, society is being yourself others go so far as to actually forced to look for better ways to manage these sorts of create objects which could be devastating events. Artists and designers might not be the most developed into innovations. obvious choice to solve such pressing issues, but the Bangkok Art and
Sansern Milindasuta on Let’s Panic
Culture Centre (BACC) in collaboration with the Design for Disasters network recently invited 15 artists and designers to present their ideas for a sustainable environment. Sansern Milindasuta, the curator of this eerily prescient exhibition entitled Let’s Panic, explains more. How did you come to collaborate with Design for Disasters? I invited Khun Vipavee who runs Design for Disasters last year to give a talk about their project T for Thailand and Our Belove Thailand after the political unrest in Thailand, and that gave me the opportunity to see some of their activities relating to natural disaster. Then, about four or five months ago the BACC decided to organise an exhibition which would help stimulate consciousness about the environment. Design for Disasters immediately came to mind as natural collaborators for it. Do you know any D4D projects from before? If so what is it about this organisation that distinguishes them from all the 38
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other eco-trendy projects that come and go? D4D is made up of young designers, artists and academics. The general public is also invited to share their ideas and help find long-term solutions so that everyone can be better prepared for natural disasters, particularly those resulting from extreme weather which, as we’ve seen in recent weeks, may attack the city at any moment. You can get more information from their website www.designfordisasters.org. What were the criteria for selecting the 15 artists and designers involved? We started by askin Khun Vipavee from Design for Disasters to come up with a story about sinking city that we can use as a starting point for ar ts
In terms of specific works, what are the highlights of this exhibition? We present this exhibition in 6 parts starting with the city sinking. Other parts tackle the themes of ‘escape or stay’, ‘food runs out’, ‘injury and illness’, ‘survive’ and ‘design for the future’. What is your view on the environmental threats facing Thailand and the planet? You cannot change the environment without changing yourself. Steven Pettifor Let’s Panic is on view until 25 November on the 8th floor of the BACC WHERE Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630; www. bacc.or.th BTS Siam OPEN Tues-Sun 10am-9pm www.bangkok101.com
Our performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. For more information try www.thaiticketmaster.com or our own website www.bangkok101.com. Aksra Theatre
performing arts Cultural Centres Bangkok’s cultural centres bring in topnotch exhibitions and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng |02-6704200 | 10am-6pm close Sun | www.alliancefrancaise.or.th
สมาคมฝรัง่ เศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้
Theatres
AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument| 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue- Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, enjoy hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.
โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ
PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising cla sses , ar tis t s’ r esidencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows world-class.
NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.
SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.
โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง www.bangkok101.com
โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์
สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมร่วมมิตร ar ts
BACC (BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE) (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium |02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am9pm | www.bacc.or.th The upper levels of this eleven-storey Guggenheim-like behemoth boast 3,000sqm for hosting art; the lower ones art-related shops and galleries.
หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน
GOETHE INSTITUT (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 |8am-6pm | www. goethe.de/
สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1
JAPAN FOUNDATION (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21| BTS Asok | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th
เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชัน่ ชัน้ 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 21
TCDC (THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE) 6F, The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-664-8448 | www.tcdc.or.th | 10:30am9pm close Mon Attend free workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. Facilities include a state-of-theart multimedia library and a textile centre.
ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิง้ คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขมุ วิท 24
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paradise found
Trans-Euro Success
B
y the time you read this, Maft Sai and I will have completed a series of dates across Europe to see whether the ‘Paradise Bangkok’ and ‘Isan Dancehall’ formula works outside of its natural habitat. As stated before, our nights were never part of a plan; more an experiment following an enthusiastic conversation, to see if our shared passion for the music of Thailand’s past had a place in the present tense. Another byproduct has been a desire to see luk thung and molam taken as seriously as afro-beat, reggae, or jazz – not anything lazy like exotica or something ironic. Despite the positive response to the resulting comps (‘Sound of Siam’ on Soundway and ‘Thai?Dai!’ on Finders Keepers) it was with a cer tain sense of trepidation that we set out on dates that would encompass the UK , Swit zer land, Austria and Germany. We’r e h a p py t o report, however, that this music, like all gr eat sounds , can easily breathe life into a chilled Viennese night, or keep a crowd rocking until sunrise in Hamburg. There have been some funny moments, such as the drunk girl in Lausanne who wanted to ask me a question, sent the needle skidding over the record, whilst not even being aware the music had stopped. The promoters had to hustle her offstage as she argued her case! There have been some poignant ones, such as the Thai girl in Germany who stated how proud she was to hear her music played
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out in a club context. A not he r punte r in Munich told us he’d driven four hours just to hear us play. Gratifyingly for me and Nat, people jus t seemed to be having a good time, enjoying the sounds, wanting to know more about the music. The Golden Pudel in Hamburg saw us head for bed at 8am, as people got down to vibes from Thailand, Pakistan and Ethiopia. We were made to feel really welcome, hosted by a cast of generous people, and I’m pretty sure these won’t be our last gigs in Europe. Sounds connect, and whilst context is always useful, the concern for us was that the parties we’d so enjoyed putting on in Bangkok might not translate to an audience perhaps unfamiliar with all the reference points. These worries, thankfully, proved unfounded, and it begs the question – how many other under-the-radar songs might delight us if we only we had the chance to hear it? We’ve always counted what we do as a privilege and as we start to plan for the 2nd Soundway compilation, as well as weigh up the possibilities for next year, we’re looking forward to where the music might take us next, and how these nights out shape people’s view of the sounds of Thailand and its people in the months to come. Chris Menist Check out www.zudrangmarecords.com for details of all future releases and parties
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Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, large and small. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom – and look for a branch of Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, or Bookazine Things Thai Tanistha Danslip & Michael Freeman | Tuttle Publishing | 128pp | US$19.95 As it says on the tin, this release examines the traditional objects that define what it means to be Thai. Divided into three categories – decorative arts, religious paraphernalia and rural crafts – the lovingly curated book contains lush photography alongside introductions to the objects. These include thang, the ornate day beds that today feature in many Western living rooms as unique coffee tables. In the second section, statues, amulets, spirit houses, alms bowls and the origins of the naga, the mythical water serpent, are also unraveled. The latter chapter heads into the fields, turning up kong khao (sticky-rice containers); ngorb (farmer hats); and ethnic minority jewelry. Things Thai not only educates you about the nation’s most treasured possessions – it’s also a smartly presented cultural primer.
On DVD
Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com.
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Bizare Thailand Jim Algie | Marshall Cavendish| 335pp | B524 C anadian Jim Algie has spent 17 years writing for local publications, the dark, sexy stories he’s covered forming the backbone of this collection of essays focusing on eccentr ic Thailand, “a Twilight Zone where nothing is what it seems” he writes. It could have been a tabloid-style hatchet job that paints the country as a grotesque freakshow, but it isn’t. Whether he’s hanging out with Thai sex workers, cowboys or sacred tortoises, Algie is never anything but the model feature writer, bringing empathy, balance, wit and no small amount of research to his subjects. We’ll be dipping in to Bizarre Thailand for some time we fancy. From the rock musician who traded in his guitar for an executioner’s machine gun to the first lady of forensics, it’s an irreverent celebration of what makes this country such a curiosity: its people.
reading & screening WOMAN, MAN, BANGKOK Scott Barmé | Silkworm Books | 273pp | B625 Though it hails from the dusty halls of academia, this superb book will delight anybody interested in modern Bangkok’s DNA. A gifted researcher traces the sociocultural issues of 1920s Bangkok (absolutism, proto-feminist issues like polygamy and prostitution, social equality) using the newspapers of the day as his main source. Of the many things you learn, perhaps the most interesting is how vocal the press was in those last years of absolute-rule; how its news often championed the rights of wronged women while its cartoons caricatured the venal ruling elite, usually with impunity. There’s also a fascinating chapter about how the city’s cinemas were places of romance, solicitation and class tension as well as entertainment. This is the best book on early 20th Century Siam’s popular (as opposed to royal) culture we know of.
ADVENTURES OF IRON PUSSY (HUA JAI TOR RA NONG) Weerasethakul | 2003 | B79 More a film-length piece of performance art than a film, Iron Pussy is a bizarrely funny homage to ‘70s spa dramas and the power of white go-go boots. Mild-mannered convenience-store clerk by day, fabulous drag spy by night, Iron Pussy is played with serious zeal by visual performance artist Michael Shaowanasai – despite her formidable ass-kicking powers, the girl is also a sucker for love. Musical numbers erupt in an explosion of costumes and melodramatic soap references, assorted political figures and high-society ladies get their skewering, and Irony Pussy even dispatches a foaming madman in a mock don’t-do-drugs public-service announcement. Despite the high camp, Iron Pussy is never less than sweet-eyed and sympathetic, no matter if she’s wearing a miniskirt or a maid’s outfit – and looking fabulous in both. ar ts
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The following snapshots and snippets are taken from Thai Taxi Talismans, the first book dedicated to Bangkok’s mobile mini-altars. On his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (www.lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot. com), the author Dale Konstanz has spent the past four years documenting the extensive collections of talismans, precious sacred icons, and pop culture paraphernalia that adorn this city’s one-of-a-kind cabs, as well as what they mean to the drivers. This fun, approachable book brings together highlights from his vast series of photographs combined with ruminations on the lucky charms and related aspects of Thai culture. Meticulously produced by publishers River Books, and available now through www.amazon.com and at bookstores around town, it’s a fascinating ride.
P H OTO F E AT U R E
Thai Taxi Talismans
Thai Taxi Talismans Bangkok from the Passenger Seat photography and words by Dale Konstanz
The Buddha is Everywhere
Buddha images in cabs take many forms. Some taxis have a set of three miniEmerald Buddhas that each wear a different outfit. Why? Because the jade original, Phra Kaew Morakot, Thailand’s most revered Buddha image, has three costumes that are changed at different times of the year.
Money, Money, Money
You can find examples of every possible method of praying to the money gods and goddesses inside Bangkok cabs. Talismans in the cabs include pairs of birds, piggy banks, and cats with waving arms that lure in customers. Some drivers also think it’s good luck to collect coins and attach them to surfaces in the cab. Fish are a symbol of wealth and one of the most popular money charms is made from Thai baht folded into the shape of one. The aquatic talismans are constructed from out-of-circulation notes creased with elaborate accordion pleats to create the body and the fins, while ribbons, beads, sparkly sequins, and plastic googly eyes are applied to make them life-like.
More is More
Many cabbies love to fill their taxis with all kinds of things they’ve collected. Typical collections obviously include religious icons. But it doesn’t end there. Some drivers collect stuffed toys and cartoon characters, manga action figures, hand-blown glass knickknacks, foreign and Thai coins, animal figurines with movable parts, and mementos from celebratory occasions.
P H OTO F E AT U R E
Thai Taxi Talismans
Long Live the King
Decals that read ‘Long Live the King’ in English or in Thai are often plastered across taxi windshields or back windows. And it’s common to see banners, flags, and stickers with the King’s insignia hung in the interior.
Lucky Charms
While amulets and other talismans commonly dangle from a necklace, they can also be found standing or lying on your taxi’s dashboard, or affixed to the cab’s ceiling. You will never see them placed lower the than the waist of the driver – traditional precepts dictate they be placed in a relatively high position.
Taxi Meditation
Likenesses of Thai monks, from statuettes to images printed on photographs, amulets and even stickers, are often displayed in an attempt to attract wealth and to elude misfortune. Monk talismans are collected and worshipped according to the specific characteristics and magical powers that they are believed to possess.
Fat and Happy
It’s not uncommon to see statues of the ‘Fat Buddha’ on Bangkok taxi dashboards. Despite what some westerners believe, this rotund and jovial character is not the historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, but rather a figure from Chinese folklore.
P H OTO F E AT U R E
Thai Taxi Talismans
Taxi Flora
Flowers and greenery are commonly found inside Thai taxis. They add life and colour to the otherwise bleak and sometimes dank interiors. Strings of jasmine, along with bright yellow marigolds, red roses, purple orchids, and fresh pandan leaves also lend the cabs a fresh, evocative aroma.
Never Too Cute
In Thai culture there’s no age limit for being infatuated with all things sweet, innocent, happy and cute. Even Bangkok taxi drivers can’t resist collecting whimsical accessories and other playful memorabilia. According to some drivers, they’re simply trying to create a friendly, lighthearted atmosphere for their passengers.
FOOD&DRINK
dining in bangkok
F
ood is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way that Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared with everyone at the table; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.
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Serenade
A taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round
food & drink
the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites. If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a nonstop gastronomical journey.
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Every month we scour the city to find Bangkok's best restaurant promotions, so that you never have to miss out on a great dining experience; whether it be a candlelight dinner by the Chao Phraya river, brunch in a five-star setting, or a once-in-a-lifetime Michelin quality meal
meal deals
November 10 Loy Krathong Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road,Thonburi, 02-476-0022; bangkokriverside@anantara.com; www.anantara.com For Loy Krathong (see Metrobeat), the Anantara Bangkok Riverside (formerly the Marriott Resort & Spa) will stage two dazzling dinner celebrations. On the Riverside Terrace they’ll host a buffet for B2,999 per adult, complete with Thai performances. They’ll also serve a set menu on the Manohra, a converted rice barge, for B3,999.
Through November Wealthy Set Menu Imperial China Restaurant, 4th floor Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel, Sukhumvit 22,02-261-9000 ext. 5058; dining@imperialhotels.com; www.imperialhotels.com The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel’s Chinese restaurant is offering 50% off its huge set menus of Cantonese dishes. Prepared by a Hong Kong Master Chef, and big enough to feed 8 to 10 people, these star delicacies such as Peking duck and stir-fried soft shell crab with black pepper, to name but two. Usually they’ll set you back B11,999-B28,999.
Until mid Dec Beef and Lamb Love-in da Vinci, Rembrandt Hotel & Towers, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100; www.rembrandtbkkk.com Wagyu, tenderloin, Hereford, and Angus beef from Australia are now on the menu at the Rembrandt’s Italian restaurant. Premium grain-fed lamb from Tasmania, is also now available. To promote it they’ve launched a competition: order your slab of choice, fill in the tear-off sheet and indicate which meat you ordered for your chance to win an allexpenses paid trip to Australia.The draw will take place mid December.
Until December All You Can Eat Tapas Panorama Restaurant, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd., 02 632 9000; www.facebook.com/ crowneplazabangkok Until the end of December, head to the Crowne Plaza’s impressive Panorama for all-you-can-eat tapas every evening. Hot and cold selections of tapas include Italian cold cuts and cheeses, gambas a’ la plancha, mussels gratin with parsley butter, gorgonzola spring rolls, and much more, plus your selection of sangria pitcher, wine farafe or two signature cocktails for only B1,300++ per person.
Ongoing Surf in the City Fifty-Five, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Road, 02-100-6255; www. centarahotelsresorts.com/cgcw The CentaraGrand’s vertiginous finediner is now offering a surf in the city lunch every Friday. Priced at B999 net, the lunch buffet includes a selection of smoked fish and shellfish, plus lobster, oysters, salmon and Japanese sashimi.Turf dishes are also available, including English roast beef with truffled potato mash for B555 net. All-you-can-drink wine will set you back B555 net per hour.
Ongoing Tapas & BBQ Buffet Park Plaza Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-658-7000; www.parkplaza.com/ bangkok-hotel-th-10110/thabaas If you’ve never visit Park Plaza Bangkok’s elegant Mezza Restaurant now’s a great time as two great promotions are currently on offer. The first, available every Monday and Friday at dinnertime, is a ‘Tapas Variety Buffet’ featuring allyou-can-eat tapas and pizza for just B269 per person. The second, available every Friday for dinner, is a BBQ Buffet featuring a selection of seafood, pork and meat for B79 per person.
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FOOD&DRINK
street eats
restaurant
Krua Aroy Aroy If the wafts of incense smoke and religious chants drifting in from the Hindu temple, Wat Khaek, opposite suggest that Krua Aroy Aroy (‘Delicious Kitchen’) is a bit more special than your average shophouse kitchen, it’s the food that confirms it. This slim hole-in-the-wall filled with nothing more than plastic tables, friendly grandmas in aprons and one dozing cat, serves some of the most scintillating Thai fast-food we know of, from plates of pla dtoo (deep fried mackerel) served with nam prik (shrimp paste) and crunchy northern veggies to a benchmark-setting khao soy (northernstyle chicken curry topped with crispy egg noodles). A highlight are its rich, slow-stewed regional curries, especially when spooned over Krua Aroy Aroy’s silky kanom jeen (rice noodles), which have a knack for selling out after lunchtime. Recommendations include dark Central Thai curry nam prik, a strongly spiced but well-balanced marriage of golden beans and prawn that comes furnished with banana leaf buds, raw morning glory stems and their deep fried leaves. There’s also nam ngiew (pork in a mild spicy broth and tomatoes) from the north – and, 50
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review
for the spice fetishists among you, tongue-scouringly hot renditions of Southern curries gaeng tai pla (spicy fish soup) and gaeng lueng (yellow chilli soup with bamboo shoots). If we were to pick one dish that you should rush here for though, it’s the massaman. Though not served with beef (in respect of the Hindu temple), we’re besotted: this rendition of the popular curry dish is sweet, rich and creamy, swimming with hunks of tender chicken and potato. It’s an acquired taste for sure, but they also do a very good khao kluk kapi (rice stir-fried with shrimp paste and served with sweet pork and shredded green mango), though it’s only served on Thursdays. We could go on (and on, and on) but you get the gist: there ain’t a bad dish in here.. Max Crosbie-Jones
ครัวอร่อยอร่อย ถ.ปั้น สีลม (ตรงข้ามวัดแขก)
WHERE Pan Road, Silom (opp. Indian Temple), BTS Surasak, 02-635-2365 OPEN 8am-8:30pm (closed every 2nd & 4th Sunday) PRICE B40-100
food & drink
www.bangkok101.com
ealikte
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city's next delectable morsel
Jukko Bamee Kiew On rainy nights in Bangkok, when the streets are sodden and taxis stubbornly not taking passengers, for me there’s no better shelter than a noodle stall. Watching people jog for cover while slurping hot noodle soup beneath an expertly hung tarpaulin – there’s no dry-ish place in the city I’d rather be. At the corner of Soi Convent and Silom Road is a noodle cart called Jukko Bamee Kiew perfect for doing just that. With its neon so bright that night almost becomes day, and fold-up tables and plastic chairs extending along the sidewalk beside the big 7-11 store, it’s hard to miss this perpetually busy Silom favourite. Manning it is a Thai-Chinese family whose ancestors hail from Guangdong, in South China, and have been making egg noodles and broth for generations. What gives their noodles a lovely soft texture is the way they cook them. It’s not just a matter of tossing them in boiling hot water. No, here they know exactly the right amount of time you need to douse them to make them soft, but not too soft. Asking for bamee nam will get you a bowl of them in soup, but I prefer bamee kiew haeng: a dry bowl of them topped with minced pork and shrimp stuffed wantons, and served with a small side of soup. On top go a few thin slices of BBQ pork or some crab meat. With prices of about B30 per bowl, don’t be shy about having more than one! Jukko Bamee Kiew is open from 11am-11pm daily except Saturday. During the day time they’re located deep inside Soi Convent, then at around 6pm they move to their plot outside the 7-11 on the corner of Soi Covent and Silom Road. www.bangkok101.com
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FOOD&DRINK
vegetarian
The pickings for herbivores may be slim here, but they are out there. Meat-free snacks abound in Little India, or Pahurat, and most restaurants that aren’t cheap hole-in-thewalls have at least a few items on the menu. Here are five joints where we promise you won’t be palmed off with a bowl of MSG slosh.
Anothai 976/17 Soi Praram 9 Hospital, Huay Kwang | 02-641-5366 | Thu-Tue 10am-9:30pm | no credit cards | $ Ask a Bangkokian to suggest a good vegetarian restaurant, and they’ll usually name this tiny place in an otherwise uninteresting northeast suburb.Thais and the odd foreigner in the know come to feast on the innovative pan-Asian dishes created by the owner, who grows her veggies on the family farm. Many, including desserts, are vegan. Try the cookies and butterfly Pea Tea. Khun Churn Ground floor, Bangkok Mediplex, Sukhumvit Soi 42 | BTS Ekamai | 02-713-6599 | $ Bangkok’s only branch of Chiang Mai’s most famous vegetarian restaurant may be missing the garden setting (it’s on the soulless ground floor of a health mall) and daily lunchtime buffet. But here you can still enjoy the same brilliant interpretations of Thai dishes, from tangy mushroom salads, to faux-meat mains like tofu-laden red duck curry and one-meal dishes like khao soy. Na Aroon 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Sukhumvit Road | 02-254-8880 | BTS Ploenchit | www. ariyasom.com | 6:30am – 11pm (last order 10pm) | $ The devout vegetarian behind this gorgeous hotel restaurant, David Lees, knows a thing or two about Thai food’s medicinal properties and loves to mix things up. Pad thai malakor (stir-fried papaya instead of noodles) may appear on the menu one month; homemade quiches, khao chae sets and rhubarb and apple crumbles the next. Some fish dishes are also available. Indian Chaat 59/4, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (opposite Smart School and next to Robinsons School of Music, close to where the road joins Soi 31), 02-259-7900; indianchaat.blogspot.com Paneer pakora (deep-fried cottage cheese, B70), samosas (B10 each), and papri chaat (puri covered with yoghurt and sweet tamarind chutney, B50). This simple joint with red tablecloths and artworks on the walls serves a broad smorgasbord of vegetarian Indian street snacks, or chaat. Don’t miss the lassis or glass display cabinet where traditional sweets are kept. Seven Spoons 211 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of Lan Luang and Chakkrapatipong Rd) | 084-539-1819 or 02-628-4588 | http://sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com The partners behind wholefood home-delivery service Birds in A Row opened up this tiny, veg-friendly shophouse restaurant on the edge of Ratchadamnoen back in August. Simple yet sumptuous, the international and Med influenced meals made using mostly organic produce are worth crossing town for, but call ahead to avoid disappointment (there are only three tables). 52
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restaurant
Saras
review
Forgive us for failing you, but somehow Saras and its delicious Indian fast food, all of it 100% vegetarian, managed to elude our attention since opening back in early 2010. We wish we’d stumbled across it sooner. Secreted away down a little driveway on Sukhumvit 20, it’s a utilitarian canteen with solid wood furniture and a food court-like ordering system. Hand over a note to the staff member manning the till by the door and you’re handed a card which you can recoup on dishes at the stainless steel counter at the back. After making your pick, you take a seat and then five, six, maybe seven minutes later a waiter delivers your dishes without fanfare. The upside of this stripped down set-up are the prices. Roughly 350 plus dishes of pan-Indian – all neatly itemised under Chaat Chowpati (that’s parlance for Indian streetfood), Chinese-Indian, snacks, set meals, southern, tandoori, à la carte and Thai headings – sit on the menu and nearly all come in well under B150. Even more intriguingly, the majority are the sorts of authentic down-home delicacies that sell in the tens of millions each day in their homeland but rarely seem to make it on to the menu of curryhouses either here in Bangkok or in the west (or maybe we’ve always just been too tanked up on Kingfisher beer to notice?). To name but a few, the dahi puchka are little cuplets of crispy puri (bread) filled with a potato and pea mixture, drenched in a cool and slightly tart curd, and topped off with herbs and a mild tamarind sauce; the chupa rustam kebabs tandoorcooked little culets of heavily spiced potato with a surprise – mozzarella – waiting inside; and the mushroom momos, from the Indian-Chinese section, moreish gyoza-like dumplings served with a pickled tomato dip. More treats await, no doubt. If knowing what to plump for off the text menu proves tricky (and for those who don’t know their way around Indian
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food, it’s likely to until Saras replaces it with a picture-based one), then opt for one of their five thali sets. Available in Rajasthani, Gujarati and North India variations, these great-value spreads come served with their own unique array of vegetable and lentil dishes and different breads. Speaking of breads, one to try here is the kulcha, a more fragrant alternative to the usual naan. It’s also worth finding room for Saras’ freshly made sweets: diamond shaped cubes of silver-leaf coated barfi; little cups of rasmalai (a milky paneer based dessert), among untold other subcontinental sugar hits all handsomely displayed in glass display cases. Only adding to the appeal of this no-frills shrine to authentic Indian vegetarian food – a detour-worthy must for the herbivores and intrepid food explorers among you – are the Jain menu and delivery, through www.chefsxp. com, options. Max Crosbie-Jones
ซาราส สุขุมวิท ซ.20
WHERE Sukhumvit Soi 20 (near Windsor Hotel), 02-401-8484 (for delivery call ChefsXP on 02-204-2001); www.saras.co.th OPEN Mon-Fri 8am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-11pm PRICE $
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restaurants
restaurant
GEDHAWA
review
For true flavours of the north in an eccentrically nostalgic, pastel-pink setting, try Gedhawa. Converted from an oldschool tailor shop, this quirky Northern Thai restaurant tucked down a quiet Sukhumvit side street has been run for five years by the owner Rachata, a Chiang Mai bohemian, and Jum, the friendly manageress. You’ll struggle to find another where the tastes of the proprietor shine through so strongly. Part museum piece, part restaurant, Gedhawa is filled with soulful northern touches that mark it out as unique for these parts, from the lulling folk songs of Jaran Manopetch to hanging Lanna-style lanterns and textiles. Adding to the alluring strangeness of the pastel-pink place downstairs are Rachata’s old knick-knacks (40-year-old thread still in their original spools, pop bottles, rotary telephones still in use, wine corks), while upstairs old-school mannequins sit behind a plate glass window. Weird would be an apt word to describe all this, were Gedhawa not at heart a homey Thai restaurant 54
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WHERE 24 Sukhumvit Soi 35; 02-662-0501 BTS Phrom Phong OPEN Mon-Sat 11am-12pm, 5pm-10pm PRICE B90-B350
offering 100 plus Northern dishes all neatly written up by hand on an elegant, silk-backed menu. The dish to open with is with the Lanna hors d'oeuvre (B280++), a big, rustic wooden bowl arrives brimming with fresh vegetables and traditional pastes nam prik noom and nam prik ong, as well as fried pork skin, moo yaw (pork sausage), nam (fermented sausage) and Northern spicy sausage or sai aour. Follow that with the signature kai jeaw Gedhawa (B120). A humungous glass noodles omelette, it arrives sliced up like a pizza. Try it with some nam prik ong and you won’t regret it. We also enjoyed the deep-fried shrimp with yummy tamarind sauce and crispy noodles (180B), and, the highlight of our meal, the deep-fried fish split in half, one dressed with sweet & sour sauce, and served with a spicy nam jim seafood (dipping sauce). As these dishes prove, Gedhawa is more than a mere nostalgia trip – it’s an adventure in northern flavours too. Amornsri Tresarannukul
เก็ดถะหวา สุขุมวิท ซ.35
food & drink
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restaurant
review
The Bar and The Restaurant Even in this city, The Bar & The Restaurant is one of a kind: a classy Champagne lounge and restaurant rolled into one. On the first level, The Bar, solid gold Victorian furniture set against a backdrop of jet-black walls trimmed in gold creates an ambiance of unembarrassed decadence. The bold look is softened by the subdued tones and sheer fabrics of The Harem Table, a private space that tempts you to draw the curtains. Already known as the “Moët Bar” amongst its high profile clientele of celebrities and socialites, this oneof-a-kind venue offers an incredible selection of signature Moët & Chandon Champagne cocktails and the city’s finest Champagnes, whiskies, cognacs, Armagnac’s and fine wines. Half a dozen fresh, Fine De Claire oysters are complimentary when you purchase a bottle of Moët Brut Imperial. Tapas are available every day from 4pm-1am with special deals almost every day of the week, such as 50% off oysters plus live jazz every Wednesday. Guests can also enjoy their choice of libation with light gourmet tapas including the delicate Osciettra Caviar specially designed by Chef Olivier Daniel, whose culinary skills have apparently pleased the palates of celebrity big wigs such as John Travolta, Pierce Brosnan and Bill Gates. For a fine dining affair, make your way upstairs to The Restaurant, where framed photographs of Moët & Chandon ambassador Scarlett Johansson grace the walls, and an entirely different colour scheme of Tiffany blue — another lavish statement – sets the mood. The signature dish here is black risotto with mussels and fresh lobster extravagantly garnished with 24-karat gold flakes. A Chef ’s Table private
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WHERE 24th Avenue, next to The Davis Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 08-2222-7474, facebook.com/ TheBar.TheRestaurant BTS Phrom Phong OPEN Mon-Sun 11am-1am PRICE $$$
dining room features an open kitchen designed to allow diners a sneak peek at the live food preparations of Chef Olivier Daniel and his team. A 9-course tasting menu of French and Italian cuisine featuring imported ingredients such as Lobster, Foie gras, Black truffle, Sturgeon Caviar and more, promises a culinary journey to be remembered. While the Chef ’s Table is a common feature in many high-end dining venues these days, here at The Restaurant you will find something more unusual — the Lover’s Table. Tucked away in a corner, this two-seater is both romantic and practical for Casanova types. Golden resin letters decorated on Moët bottles can be ordered in advance to help smooth along those extra special evenings. Yvonne Liang
food & drink
รร. เดอะ เดวิส โฮเต็ล สุขุมวิท ซ. 24
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FOOD&DRINK
all you can eat
restaurant
review
The Hourglass Restaurant Hotel brand AETAS has been spreading its wings wide over the city recently, with a branch opening along Soi Ruamrudee, and the latest popping up on Rama IV Road, just a short hop and skip from Lumpini Park. With the Suan Lum Night Bazaar no more, this busy area is not the tourist must-visit it used to be, but in the basement of this gleaming new tower is still a good reason to pop by during the day – a lunchtime buffet featuring a blend of Asian and western for a very affordable B499 net. The venue, The Hourglass, is sleek and modern, with off-white marble and funky seating located just a few steps from the sprawling spread. More importantly, this blend of international choices leaves almost nothing out, with fresh seafood, sushi, parma ham, and dim sum, as well as various Asian dishes all for the picking. March on up to the Italian station and you’ll find half decent pizza slices and a smiling chef ready to whip you up a carbonara or some other fresh pasta. Next to it sits a BBQ one offers steaks and roast chicken, as well as Asian fare like red pork. Also on the money, surprisingly, is the Thai cuisine; try the hot gaeng kiew waan goong (green curry with prawns), or soup with minced pork stuffed in bitter-cucumber, and just try and disagree with us. The dessert spread features an hypnotic white-choc fondue fountain and array of tropical fruits for you to dip in at will. Also on hand to fatten you up, are tarts and blueberry cream cheese, plus authentic Thai sweets like lod chong and trays of those bright golden, egg-yolk based favourites thong yib and thong yod. Amornsri Tresarannukul
WHERE The AETAS lumpini B1 Fl, 1030/4 Rama 4 Road, Sathorn; 02-618-9555; www.aetashotels.com BTS Ploenchit MRT Lumpini OPEN Daily 12pm-2:30pm PRICE B499 net
รร. เอทัส ลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4
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Grand Pearl
river cruises
A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 per person, depending on how well you dine, and last an average of three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner, though this should be confirmed ahead of time. It’s also wise to make advance reservations. ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-476-0022 ext. 1416 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com AD_VIU-Brunch_BKK101-15.6X7.23cm_C.pdf 1 10/14/11 6:24 PM ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th
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FOOD&DRINK
Neighbourhood Nosh: Pratuu Pee Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.
Wat saket
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Mahachai Road
Samranrat Junction
Saphan phanfa Pier
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Thip Samai
‘Pratuu Pee’, or the gate of the underworld, might sound like a rather unpleasant place for a spot of roaming and feasting, but ignore the sinister history and your stomach will thank you for it. Notorious for being the route through which the corpses of plague victims were hauled before being burnt at nearby Wat Saket, a practice that ended in King Rama IV’s reign, Pratuu Pee is today a well-known culinary attraction among Thais and in-the-know expats. The big draw are all the ageing garage-style shophouses, with their tatty open storefronts, furiously sizzling woks, old-family recipes, and slightly curt but efficient staff in aprons, that line it. Start off with Loong Par (1), a 40-year-old shophouse serving pad thai. The first of two on the strip that dish up this popular stir-fry noodle and bean sprout dish, this one stands out from other sugary local renditions with hints of spice instead. Prices range from B35/50B/70B. Nearby Jok Samranrat (2) is a great spot to a develop a taste for jok, or boiled rice porridge. Most take it with pork and egg, be it salted egg, potash preserved egg, soft-boiled, or have them all in your super-egg bowl (60B). You’ll also find here kanom bueng, crispy pancake stuffed with sweet yolk threats, and, piled up in front of the shop, a range of other Thai sweet treats all wrapped in banana leaf, as is the traditional way. A couple of steps from Jok Samranrat, Thip Samai (3), a crowded 58
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Jok Samranrat
Som Wang
double-width shophouse, is widely considered the plus ultra of pad thai kitchens and even has its own website (www.thipsamai.com). Do we agree? Rather than award the trophy ourselves, why not try both the Loong Par and Thip Samai variations and decide for yourself. If money is no object walk past the little coconut ice cream stall, and pop by Je Fai (4). This gritty little storefront is famous for its jok haeng, or dry seafood porridge (200B) as well as its very pricey menu. Some lad-na talay (noodles in sticky sauce with octopus and giant prawn) will set you back B260, for example, and a crab omelet an exorbitant B600. Still, if the food were no good, it wouldn’t have survived – Je Fai’s cooks are some of the best in the business. For some dessert, the little Som Wang (5) cart is an excellent choice, serving tapioca balls in warm coconut milk with corn and coconut meat.What makes it distinctive it here, though, is having it with salted egg. Nearby, Paa Som (6) smokes sticks of satay pork on a traditional charcoal stove, and on the right of that, Ooh Look Chin Pla (7) dishes up bowls of noodles featuring their secret-weapon: fishballs. Walk away from this clutch towards Samranrat Junction and on the corner you’ll find locals huddled food & drink
To Guay Jub
over steaming bowls of yen ta fo (rice noodles in a reddish soup) and tom yum noodles at Tee Yen Ta Fo (8). With its juicy homemade fried fish and shrimp balls, its worth joining them but be sure to tell your waiter mai ped (no spicy) if you’re spice tolerance is set to low. Cross the junction, walk straight and you’ll hit Heng Gi (9), a revered shophouse that has been serving classic flat noodles and red BBQ pork for 80 years. Walk even further and you’ll be rewarded with what we think is one of Pratuu Pee’s finest: To Guay Jub (10). At first glance these might look like fairly typical bowls of guay jup, or big square noodles in clear peppery broth, but the taste sensation and steady stream of customers prove otherwise. Amornsri Tresarannukul GETTING THERE Tell your taxi or tuk-tuk driver ‘Pratuu Pee’ and they should know it. Otherwise grab an express boat at one of the pier’s along Khlong Saen Saeb and disembark at the last Old City stop, Panfah Pier. From there, walk over the bridge and take a left past the white fortress onto Mahachai Road or, if you’re worried about getting lost, take a tuk tuk. www.bangkok101.com
THAI CHOTE CHITR (map A3) 146 Phraeng Phuton | 02-221-4082 | 11am-10pm (closed Sun) | $ This it it – that culinary Holy Grail, the hole in the wall with heavenly food. Chote Chitr is set in a scenic neighbourhood near the Giant Swing – a lucky thing, because finding this restaurant can required the orienteering skills of a seasoned city survivalist. And then: a narrow shotgun space, cooks and dogs alike sprawled out on the floor – this is the home of the finest mee krob on the land? Indeed. Sit your sweaty self down and tuck in to this gorgeous melding of contrasts. Greaseless, whisper-light noodles packed with sour-tart citrus flavours from the peel of som saa fruit. Chote Chitr’s version kicks up its heel at all the syrupy nightmare mee globs out there. Banana-flower salad is revelation, fried fish is dressed to kill in garlic, and the eggplant salad is mysterious spicy, smokily sweet. Simple surrounds, celestial food – what could be more Thai than that?
ร้านโชติจิตรโภชนา ถ.ตะนาว
MAHANAGA (map D4) 2 Sukhumvit Soi 29 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3060 | www.mahanaga.com | 5:30pm-midnight | $$$ When Mahanaga appeared on the
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restaurants
Ruen Mallika
scene several years back, we were wowed by its seductive atmospheres – the charming two-storied main house, the fairy-light lit courtyard, the two Arabesque dining pavilions that border it – and it quickly became the hippest place in town for a romantic Thai meal. Bangkok’s dining scene has come a long way since then though, and it appears Mahanaga knows it: the management recently phased out its signature fusion food in an attempt to recapture the old magic. Gone are the hit-and-miss dishes that never caught on in favour of straight-up traditional Thai. The family sharing menu offers the best value, allowing your table to enjoy politely spiced dishes, like the thick pork green curry, and grilled
food & drink
beef with nam jiew dipping sauce, the communal Thai way. Other highlights include mieng salmon krathong thong, and warm, sweet deep-fried bananas with ice cream. One tip: after your meal, take your post-prandial cocktail or coffee in the Moroccan-style main house, where plush sofas and billowing silks threaten to delay your departure by a good half hour. You’re paying for Mahanaga’s sumptuous setting so you might as well get your money’s worth.
มหานากา สุขุมวิท ซ.29
RUEN MALLIKA (map D4) 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-663-3211 | www.ruenmallika.com | 11am-11pm | $$ Somebody must be doing it right when
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FOOD&DRINK a Thai eatery is filled with local diners, where foreigners are the exception.This Bangkok classic, in an enchanting 19th century teak house, is known citywide for one dish: fried edible flowers. The colourful arrangement, once it’s on your table, is almost too beautiful to eat but it’s a unique delicacy, not to be missed. The huge picture-menu introduces you to royal Thai food, which translates into high-quality, healthy cooking, with vegetables that are grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Do yourself a flavour [sic] and ask the friendly staff about your chosen dishes’ spiciness; otherwise you’ll be trying to cool your mouth with heaps of rice.
เรือนมัลลิกา สุขุมวิท ซ.22
INTERNATIONAL NANG KWAK (map E4) The Third Place, Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor Soi 10) | BTS Thong Lor | 02-7147938 | www.nangkwak.com | noon-2pm, 6pm-1am | $$$ Named after the Thai goddess of prosperity, (Nang Kwak translates to“the lady who beckons”), this stylish restaurant, located right smack in the middle of Bangkok’s hippest soi, is owned by a local celebrity couple and will quickly reel you in with its sense of sophistication and intimacy. A favourite haunt for young hipsters and local bigwig politicians, a wall covered with hundreds of miniature statues of the aforementioned goddess welcomes you inside where you can choose to dine on the ground floor café or ascend
to the rooftop terrace which comes equipped with a sweeping view of the bustling activity on Soi Thong Lor. The menu is dotted with classic ItalianFrench bistro staples like tea-smoked duck breast salad, and a hearty rack of lamb. Some dishes feature a few Asian flairs with winning dishes like the spaghetti with grilled river prawns that comes drenched in a creamy sauce laced with velvety shrimp paste, all of which comes with a more than reasonable price tag.
นางกวัก เธิร์ดเพลซ ทองหล่อ ซ.10
THE POWDER ROOM 264/1 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor) | BTS Thong Lor | 02-715-9282 | Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight | $$ The brainchild of the pair behind the Spring-Summer-Winter combination on Sukhumvit 49 (creative director Hans Mueller and actor-chef Phol Tantasathien), The Powder Room sits atop the chichi Grass complex, split between a large open-air deck and a glass enclosed interior. With dim, atmospheric lighting, conversational level music, and angular, modern furnishings, the result is a place where you could easily take the wife, relax with friends, head on a date, or discuss business. To accompany the sleek setting, Chef Phol has put together a select menu of his personal favourites, none more representative than the Japanese-flavoured house curry (B260). To ensure the authenticity of the dish, the TV personality spent time in the
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4 Garcons
kitchens of one of Tokyo’s very first curr y houses that first opened its doors in 1926. It was time well-spent –accompanied by a serving of brown rice and a shot glass of pickles, the delicious dish is reason enough to dine here. This list includes grilled pork and wild rocket rolls (B160) – lush green leaves exploding from tofu-wrapped skin and set in a pool of crimson-red chilli sauce – bour tod (B150), the classic Thai dish of spicy prawns served on crispy deepfried betel leaves; and pear buta (B210), braised pork and poached pears topped with a coriander crust and dry chili – the melt-in-yourmouth layers of meat are simply divine. If it all
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sounds rather eclectic, that’s because it is. Chef Phol has deliberately assembled a menu of personal favourites for diners to slowly share over a well-mixed cocktail or two.
เดอะ พาวเดอร์ รูม ซ.ทองหล่อ
FRENCH 4 GARCONS Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-713-9547 | www.4garcons.com | 11:30am-11:30pm | $$$ 4 Garcons is billed as a brasserie, but the quilted banquettes, sofas and armchairs and murals of Louis blah blah chairs and crystal chandeliers up the
food & drink
ante. And, while there’s a bar at one end, there are no bar stools. So, the feel is restaurant, rather than boozer with food.We started with rich, caramelised onion soup topped with a good wedge of bread and cheese – a great success – and duck confit, served shredded on a bed of crispy fresh rocket salad. It had well balanced flavours, despite a little too much orange in the sauce. Mains were similarly mixed. The house steak frites is a super tender US rib eye, with a medallion of herb butter and fries cooked with skins on, in the wide flat American style, but the ox cheek braised in red wine lacked the slowcooked depth of flavour and melting softness you normally associate with this dish. To accompany, there’s a fair choice of world wines from B1,100B4,900, with five each of white and red by the glass, from B210. Save a glass of red for the 20 cheese options, including baked Vacherin, to enjoy with fruit and bread. We plumped for desserts: a tasty, creamy goat’s cheese cheesecake, and tarte au chocolat with a layered filling of dense ganache and a lighter mousse. There’s a warm feeling to 4 Garcons, but the food is a mixed bag. One problem is expectation – the décor is slightly too ritzy and the prices slightly too high for bistro fare – but it also needs a few tweaks in the kitchen. Nonetheless, the place was busy.
4 การ์ซองส์ ซ.ทองหล่อ 13
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FOOD&DRINK ITALY BASILICO (map D4) 8 Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-2323 | www.basilicopizza.com | Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm11:30pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm | $$ Bangkok wants for Italian restaurants like the Sahara wants for sand, but Basilico is one of those places that succeeds by concentrating on doing one thing well.Very well. Home to this reviewer’s nomination for best pizza in town, the huge, informal Sukhumvit 33 branch revels in checked tablecloths and more loyal customers than you could shake a giant pepper mill at. The pasta might not be anything to tell Mama about, but with something like 50 delectably thin, crispy pizzas on the menu we’ll let that slip. The vast main dining room is ideal for groups and families who can enjoy watching the pizza chefs tossing their pies into the sky, and there’s a quieter back room for those in the mood for amore.There’s now a second Basilico branch on Sukhumvit 20.
บาซิลิโค สุขุมวิท ซ.33
JAPANESE RAMEN CHAMPIONS Arena 10, 10 Sukhumvit 55 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-392-9561 | www. facebook.com/ramenchampion | SunThu 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 11am-3am Continuing its takeover of the Bangkok
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dining scene, the Japanese restaurant group’s latest endeavour is Ramen Champions off Thong Lor.The concept is deceptively simple: take six of Japan’s most famous ramen restaurants, and have them fight to the death for customers in a winner takes all format. While the kitchens are helmed by Thais only, the head Japanese chefs were brought in to train up the staff to assure the authenticity of the ramen, as well as uphold the reputation of their restaurants. Unless you’re an expert or expatriate Japanese, it’s unlikely you’ll know which outlet to choose. In this situation, it’s always best to go with the busiest, which is exactly what we did, settling on Nidaime Tsujita. If you’ve ever eaten at a ramen house, the décor and layout should be familiar enough – a small space filled with wooden tables and counter seats facing an open kitchen. The ramen, however, is distinctly unfamiliar. The signature Nidaime ramen (B250) here comes ser ved in a heavy, gravy-like broth accompanied by thick slices of beef, a filling bowl that is more winter stew than fast-food. There are also lesser known dishes such as Tsukemen (B260), where you dip your cooked ramen in an accompanying broth made from pork ribs, and Karaage (B150), diced pieces of deep-fried chicken served in a bowl filled with bright red chilies. Of course, the beauty of this new
food & drink
concept from Oishi is that if you don’t like the offerings at one outlet, then next time you can try one of the other six. Ready, Ramen Champions, fight!
ราเมน แชมเปียน อารีน่า ซ. ทองหล่อ
INDIAN HIMALI CHA CHA Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-6677 | www.himalichacha.com | 11am-3:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | $$ In a city bloated with half decent restaurants, sometimes it takes a backstory to set you apart. Fortunately for this Indian old-timer with four branches scattered around the city, they have a good one: its Bangladeshi-Indian founder, Mr. Cha Cha, spent the early 1940s, those turbulent years before India gained independence from British rule, cooking for the Mountbattens. Does Himali Cha Cha live up to its heritage? In a nutshell, yes. Set back from Sukhumvit Soi 31, at the end of a leafy driveway, their biggest branch is a charming 1960s Thai townhouse with a warm, woody, Moghul-themed look. As for the food, there’s certainly a confidence to the cooking here. The menu features curr yhouse staples aplenty, from thick dahl to refreshing lassis and ramsmali desserts, as well as Mr Cha Cha’s battalion of North Indian signatures. Starters include lightly-fried onion bajis; crispy-outside, soft-inside mutton shami kebab cutlets, all served
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Himalia Cha Cha
with fresh, tangy dips and chutneys. Slow cooked curries, meanwhile, like the Bengali fish and Mutton Chutni Walla, are of the thick and strongly spiced but not too oily sort. And the soft, piping hot nan bread makes the perfect vehicle for scooping them up with. Presented home-made style with little on-the-plate flair, nor airs and graces, Himali Cha Cha’s traditional fare is clearly intended to please the stomach and not the eyes. In a city
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where too many restaurants serve food that does the exact opposite, that’s something to be grateful for.
หิมาลี ชา ช่า สุขุมวิท ซ.31
MEXICAN CHARLEY BROWN’S (MAP D3) 1/23 Sukhumvit 11 | BTS Nana | 02-6512215 | www.charleybrowns.asia | Mon 5pm-11pm,Tue-Sun 11:30am-11pm | $$ Tucked away in the little sub-soi that snakes around by Cheap Charlie’s, this
food & drink
is one of the capital’s longest running Tex-Mex eateries, and one of the best places to get a dose of tried and trusted Americana. State number plates and classic car parts cling to the walls and late 80s radio-rock pipes through the air. Yes, it’s kitschy; but that’s not always such a bad thing. In fact, it’s kind of comforting. After all, who doesn’t yearn for a plate of nachos supreme and a good frozen Margarita from time to time? Free chips and salsa are a nice touch, and the weekend specials board (look out for snapperloaded burritos) livens up a menu of sturdy standards. Do yourself a favour and start out with Mexican chicken wings which are smothered in tang and should sharpen your appetites for a sizzling plate of chicken and beef fajitas. The smoking strips come with flour tortillas, Spanish rice, cheese and plenty of extras which, when combined, make for a mighty satisfying feast.
ชาร์ลีย์ บราวส์ สุขุมวิท ซ .11
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FOOD&DRINK
dessert
Sweet Hound desserts
review
WHERE G. level, J – Avenue, Soi Thong Lor15 BTS Thong Lor | 02-712-6547 OPEN Sun – Thu 11am–10pm, Fri – Sat 11am – 11:30pm 101(Nov).pdf 1 10/13/11 PRICEAW_Bangkok $$
Coming from the brains behind Greyhound Café, Sweet Hound is the one of the hippest hangouts to be seen with a chocolate stained chin at. Situated just outside the J Avenue branch of the fashion label’s enduringly hip restaurant chain, it has a more adorable look than its bigger sibling. White pokka dots, bare cement walls, wooden furniture and titter-inducing quotes (e.g. “when life needs sugar coating” or “life is short, more dessert?”) meet a Parisian patisserie feel. Greyhound’s creative director and sidekick, a young pastry chef from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, have together concocted a menu featuring parfaits, ice creams, cakes and crepes, but most emphatically waffles. A trip here would be incomplete without biting down on one of these toasted, batter-based treats dappled with melting butter or served with your choice of sweet (flambé banana and pineapple, marshmallow, banana) or savoury (cheddar cheese, bacon) toppings. More into chocolate? Then do try the Chocolate Lover parfait: a joyously gooey melding of chocolates you’ve loved since you were a kid (Ferrero Rocher, Maltesers, etc) with brownie, chocolate ice cream, cornflakes and more. Naughty but nice! Among the cakes, the inside out blueberry cream cheese on a short bread crust (B120) is worth a try, if a bit too heavy on the cheese for our liking. Smoothies and some classic Thai sweets, including black grass jelly with brown sugar, are also served..
6:04 PM
เจ อเวนิว ทองหล่อ ซ.15
RESTAURANT & BAR EASY BITES, QUICK REFILLS, FUNKY TUNES...
Ramada Encore Bangkok - 21 Sukhumvit Soi 10 T: 02 615 0999 www.ramadaencorebangkok.com 64
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food & drink
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FOOD&DRINK
wine
wine bar
review
WINE I LOVE YOU
WHERE E,1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd Klongkum, Bangkok 10240 (Between Lat Prao Soi 77 and Soi Yothin Pattana)| 02-102-2166 | www.wineiloveyou.com OPEN 4pm-1am
Wine drinking is on the up and up among the Thai middleclasses, and much of it is down to the rise of affordable, come-one-come-all wine brawlers like this one. The seeds were sown back in early 2010, when a sprawling, bistro-cum-wine-shop called Wine Connection opened up in Sukhumvit Soi 26’s K Village, and instantly began pulling in whitecollar crowds with its reasonably priced bistro food and bottles of wine available to drink in, or take out. No doubt riding on its coattails, this sprawling wine diner located in swank furniture complex, the Crystal Design Centre, comes off like a new refined version, offering the same concept and weekend queues, albeit in a classier, Parisian brasserie or sidewalk café style atmosphere that oozes bonhomie. As for the vino, instead of a wine list there’s a tall wine wall that you just stroll up to and pluck a bottle off. That’s good news for those with a wine head on them, not such good news for most Thais, for whom it’s still very much a case of ‘Wine I Barely Even Know You’. Still, there are roughly 100+ New and Old World (but no Thai) labels, a few by the glass, to be enjoyed here, plus some solid Thai and European bistro fare to go with them. Chef Win – who actually admits that the focus here is more on the food – knocks up a diverse menu ranging from quesadillas to burgers to traditional klaeb klam to Thai-tweaks like Pad Thai with black ink pasta and spicy spare ribs, all of which seems to be going down even better than the wines. Definitely worth a visit, then, but bear in mind the location out in a far-flung furniture complex. Max Crosbie-Jones
ไวน์ ไอ เลิฟ ยู โครงการคริสตัลดีไซน์เซ็นเตอร์ ถ.ประดิษฐ์มนูธรรม
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food & drink
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diVino
Food & Wine
diVino Penny’s Balcony Thonglor 16, Sukhumvit 55 Bangkok 10110 Thailand Tel: 027 148 723 www.divinobkk.com
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food & drink
november 2011
67
NIGHTLIFE
one night in bangkok
Nightclubbing
Our team of party animals scour the city to find the hottest gossip and news, uncovering the latest openings, events, offers and performers that will be lighting up the city this month. So what are you waiting for? It’s time to head into the night
Viva Aviv
This month’s line-up at Bed Supperclub (02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com) includes a bunch of international DJs to complement the usual regular party nights. On November 3 Funkaganda brings the sounds he’s previously shared with David Guetta and The Black Eyed Peas, then DJ Brondski plays a mix including hypnotic techno and bass heavy house on November 5. On November 24 it’s French house DJ Sebastien Leger, known for the singles ‘Hypnotized’ and ‘Aqualight’ and remixes for people like Kylie Minogue, Justin Timberlake and Duran Duran. Concept CM2, the basement club in the Novotel Bangkok (02-209-8888) hosts the 11.11.11 Party on November 11 (when else?). The international band is Blaze In, there’s a L a s e r S h o w, lucky draw prizes, and your second bottle of whisky costs B1,111 net. On Saturday 12th November,Thailand will pair up with Ireland in a two-way exchange of the best of their local nightlife. Part of the Smirnoff Nightlife Exchange Project, a global dance competition spanning 50 countries being staged by the vodka brand, the run up to the event has seen revellers worldwide contribute ideas on what makes their country’s nightlife distinct in the categories of drinks, dance, fashion, music, places, and more. Thailand will exchange its most inspiring suggestions with Ireland on November 12, while they will do the same with theirs at a soon to be disclosed location somewhere in town. If you want to be there you’ll need to log on to www.facebook.com/smirnoff and complete the game. 68
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There’s an eye-catching new bar called Viva Aviv (Unit 118 River City | www.vivaaviv.com) on the riverside, an area where businesses are in sore need of your support given the recent flooding. Pitched as a “breezy collaboration between furniture and cocktail designers”, the venue sits on the periphery of antique mall River City, its al fresco seating just yards from the river’s edge. Artisanal tipples, local draught beer and tapas-style nibbles are already available (a full menu is on its way), funky tunes are spun nightly, and there’s a cool designer maritime theme in evidence, with lots of salvaged woods and old pulleys dangling over the big central bar. To get there, catch a river expressboat to Tha Si Phraya (N3), or get a taxi to Charoen Krung Soi 30 and hop out by the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel.
Tokyo Joe’s Returns
Good news for blues fans with the announcement that popular live music bar Tokyo Joe’s is reopening. It’s in the same location at 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 and has live music from Thursday to Saturday, with an open jam night where all are encouraged to bring their instruments along on Sundays. They’ll be offering the usual bar drinks and a short food list.
nightlife
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bar
The Overstay
review
Known amongst the backpacking community as the cheapest but scuzziest hostel in Bangkok, The Overstay (80-82 Charan Sanit Wong, next to Pinklao Soi 40 | 02-883-4836 | www.theoverstay. com) is also the city’s most underground bar and music venue. Located in Thonburi, on the west side of the river, its crude graffiti art and poetry splashed walls reverberate nightly with a veritable mish mash of alternative roots and bass driven styles, with a sound to every ilk of countercultural misfit out there, from dreadlocked ravers to self-styled indie chicks and even mohawked punks on occasions. Visitors can interact with squatters and sundry lost souls from every corner of the world; beer costs a mere 50 baht a bottle (remember that when you see the toilets); and time here has a weird knack for seeming to both stand still and accelerate at hyper speed. More often than not, you’re left with an unforgettable experience and the urge to return to this skanky building that, as well as loud no-name bands, has apparently played host to shady businesses galore in its lifetime, including at one point a brothel. A freak that doesn’t fit in Bangkok’s look-at-me nightlife scene, The Overstay sits alone at the opposite end of the spectrum as the swank joints with no soul that prevail here.Your grandma would have a heart attack if she saw the place. For that reason alone its worthy of investigation – just try and remember to leave. Yvonne Liang
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nightlife
november 2011
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NIGHTLIFE
clubs Bed Supperclub
BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537; www.bedsupperclub.com. Daily 7.30pm-1am With its uber-modern oval spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its a-lapage white interior is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is worldclass on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-notch talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-name DJs tend to spin on Thursdays, house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.
เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11
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Before you go clubbing in Bangkok, know that stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, hotel clubs at 2am. The legal drinking age is 20, and all patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry, and absolutely no smoking inside Q Bar
Route 66
CLUB CULTURE (map B3) Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall), 089497-8422; club-culture-bkk.com.WedSat 8pm-late Club Culture comes from the same brains behind the city’s annual dance music festival, Culture One. After being evicted from its original home, a former Thai theatre on Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this gritty four-storey warehouse in the Old City in early 2010, much to the relief of its regulars – a cross-cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning expats. Like the old days they promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, drum n bass and house music of all genres.
คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง (หลังนิทรรศ์รัตนโกสินทร์)
THE CLUB (map A3) 123 Khaosan Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn 02-629-1010,www.theclubkhaosan. com, B100 (incl. 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret nightlife
lend a fairy-tale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to the halcyon days of trippy psy-trance. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. Dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
เดอะคลับ ข้าวสาร
DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa), 02-711-6970. BTS Thong Lo. Daily 8pm-1am. Entrance free. Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thonglor area is Demo – a former tenement building turned graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find in East London or some other hipster-ville. It sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hiphop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system.
เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10
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GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www. glowbkk.com | 6pm-1am This boutique club/bar challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of underground electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website.
โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23
INSOMNIA (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 12 (between Times Sq/ Soi 12) | www.clubinsomniagroup.com A spin-off from the Pattaya night palace of the same name, Insomnia is one of Sukhumvit’s busiest afterhours joints. LED lasers twirl around a huge main room with a giant disco ball at its centre, while DJs spin electro house out of a throbbing mounted speaker system. Some shady ladies and their hangers-on do head here (do we need to spell it out?), but unlike most of the competition, Insomnia is not overrun with them and attracts some cool sorts too.
อินซอมเนีย ซ. สุขุมวิท 12
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Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274; www. qbarbangkok.com. BTS Nana. 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin Q Bar & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge. Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, which is perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty shawarmas).
คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11
ROUTE 66 (map E3) 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue; route66club.com. Entrance free for Thais, B200 foreigners (including two drinks) Rammed with groups of dressed-to-
nightlife
kill young Thais on weekends, ‘Route’, as its affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands play in ‘The Novel’. It’s not a good place to lose your mates after one too many but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area.
รูท 66 อาร์ ซี เอ
TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4, 02-632-7982. BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom. Daily 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always hopping.
ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4
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bars with views
Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather from the smog? Then take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where you can survey the glittering skyline below. Amorosa
AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple), 02-221-9158; www.arunresidence.com Daily 6pm-1am Romantic Amorosa is a sultr y, Moroccan-style open-air bar featuring balmy river breezes, whisper-soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace onto the Chao Phraya River and, on the far banks beyond, Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.
อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช
LONG TABLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurantcum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively 72
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petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.
อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16
MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www. banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature nightlife
cocktail and feel romance welling up.
รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร
NEST (map D3) Le Fenix 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 | www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm-2am Nest is the rooftop bar of choice for Sukhumvit’s international par ty crowd. An urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, it’s a loungey and laidback spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket bar food from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include MODE, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike, you ask? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape rather than detached from it.
เลอฟินิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.11
PANORAMA (map C4) Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, Rama 4 Road, 02-632-9000; panoramabangkok.com. BTS Saladaeng. Daily 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for rainy nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter located in the partitioned area at the rear of the Crowne Plaza’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and downtown’s thrusting skyscrapers.
รร. คราวน์ พลาซ่า ถ. พระราม 4
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RED SKY (map C3) Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Road | BTS Chit Lom/Siam | 02100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts. com | 5pm-1am Circling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers city panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades to black, and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs, and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes roam the scenery. Daily happy hours (50% off selected wines, beers and cocktails between 5-7pm) and prompt, smooth service make the experience all the more enjoyable.
รร.เซ็นทาร่าแกรนด์แอท เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.พระราม 1
SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, 02-6249555; www.thedomebkk.com Daily 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar
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Red sky
– attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Despite having just featured prominently in The Hangover Part II, these places are definitely not spots for the shabbily attired; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ.สีลม
THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel | 123 Charoennakorn Road | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am
nightlife
A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and heart-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high,Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve.
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hotel bars & clubs BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. Joining this premium finger food is a menu of creative cocktails priced at B400 net, live music every Friday and Saturday from 10pm, plus a slew of specials. Drinks between 5:308:30pm on weekdays go for B250 and include free hors d’oeuvres, and ladies enjoy drinks for just B150 net per glass each Wednesday from 9pm.
รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขมุ วิท ระหว่างสุขมุ วิท 12 และ 14
BEERVAULT (map D3) Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 |BTS Asok | 02-304-3200 | www.fourpoints.com |11.30am-12pm Only 80 count ‘em paces from Sukhumvit Road, this snazzy glass and brick box with a colour-changing LED column dangling over its central bar, serves 48 bottled brews and six on tap (as well as wines to keep the ladies happy). Most hail from Belgium, making the BeerVault the first serious downtown alternative to the ever popular Belgium beer bar, Hobbs, over on Thonglor. Thanks to its streetfront location, it feels more approachable than your usual bleak hotel bar; and as well as decent happy hours between 5:30-7:30pm, there’s a free salad bar.
St. Regis Bar
CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-209- 8888 | www.cm2bkk. com | 10pm-2am | facebook.com/ conceptcm2 The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in fourteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dancefloor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the rotating line-up of live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition. International/Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge. Check out their Facebook page for news of their popular monthly theme parties and drinks promotions.
รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ.6
ST. REGIS BAR (map C3) 12th Floor, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Rajadamri Road | 02-207-7777 | www. stregis.com | 10am-1am (weekdays), 10am-2am (weekends) At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out onto the terrace of The St. Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out onto the terrace. Said to have originated in Napoleon’s era, this highfalutin ritual is a tradition stretching way back to the early days of the original St. Regis in New York. Indeed, it’s not the only one. Yet another are the Bloody Marys, which the hotel chain claims to have invented in 1934 (the one to try is the Siam Mary, Bangkok’s own spice-infused version). Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horse-racing with a fine malt whisky in hand.
รร. เดอะ เซนต์ รีจิส ถ.ราชดำริ
Barsu
รร. โฟร์พอยท์ส บาย เชอราตัน ถ.สุขุมวิท 15
CM2
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NIGHTLIFE Tuba
bars
CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | 6pm-1am; closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays of the month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.
คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน
CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety holein-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading 76
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off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok ginpalaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.
ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)
CLOUDS GF SeenSpace,Thonglor Soi 13,Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 02-185-2365 | BTS Thonglor | $$ Evoking a future where “there are no more natural resources”, this slim concrete shell at the rear of Thonglor’s SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leaf-encasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by “NASA technicians” in white overalls, and later on a DJ spins acid jazz while a female dancer sits atop one of the blocks, calmly polishing her gun and blowing bubbles. It’s not yet a big crowd-puller, but the result is enjoyably bizarre, part ultramodern mausoleum to nature, part space-station drinking hole.
คลาวด์ โครงการการซีนสเปซ ซ.ทองหล่อ 14 nightlife
HYDE & SEEK (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www. hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ This flash downtown gastro bar with a spacious outdoors terrace draws the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind New York’s successful Kittichai, while the bar is fuelled by regional cocktail consultancy Flow. The sleek, Georgian influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, artisanal cocktails or Belgian ales.
แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Soi Cham Chun (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02-711-5500 | www.design-athome.com | 11am-2am This sprawling two-storey furniture store could slot happily in our shopping, dining or nightlife sections. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, vintage sign or goofy tchotchke. Others roll up for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us,Tuba works best as a bar, as the implausible setting and generous Happy Hour (5-8pm daily; buy one get one free) mean there really are few cooler places in town to kick back after work with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases – the glassware can be that big!). Owned by the same hoarders behind Lad Phrao furniture warehouse Papaya, it features room upon room of haphazardly arranged eye-candy, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. If you grow attached to that 3ft Yoda statue, Lucien Freudesque nude or green gnome lamsp, simply wave your plastic at the waiter and point. A word to the wise: one cocktail too many and you may leave with more than you bargained for.
ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21)
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THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084- 520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor |www. theironfairies.com Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — that just happens to ser ve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam filmset. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers star t from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine.
ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ
SHADES OF RETRO (map E4) Soi Tararom 2,Thong Lor | BTS Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 | 3pm-1am | cash only Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thonglor spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture store-café, Shades provides a quiet hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd by day, fun people-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl AD_SRbar-LadieNight_BKK101-15.6 up on a nubby couch, flip through a
www.bangkok101.com
Shade of retro
Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully.
เฉดส์ ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมเฉดส์ออฟเรโทร ซ.ธารารมย์ 2 ทองหล่อ
WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini | 02-286-1558 | Mon-Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers, hipsters, creative Thais and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beerfridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s usually pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom – and watch the night unfold.
วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี
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WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02- 626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www. wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm- 1am (gallery open from 3pm) This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. Occasional leftfield live gigs, art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and a mix of local indie hipsters, NGO workers, journos and ar t-scensters to chew the fat with, make this one of the hippest and most cerebral drinking holes in the city.
6:37 PM
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live music AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’.The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California.
แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู
Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm- 1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced twentysomethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.
บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร
COSMIC CAFE (map E3) RCA Block C (opposite LED) The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dancefloor. On one night you might the place jumping, as the Paradise Bangkok DJs host a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon. On another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, 78
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electronica or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned art-school hipster types to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must.
คอสมิค คาเฟ่ อาร์ซีเอ
Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www. raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This all-wooden timecapsule hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.
ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์
Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am Inside this ex-garage out in the northern suburbs it’s pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, nightlife
rockabilly, and metal. It’s a hike, but worth it.
ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์
SAXOPHONE PUB (map C3) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02-246-5472 | www.saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Attracting youngish Thais and the odd foreigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, wood-filled floors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.
แซ๊กโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | The one place that every taxi driver knows, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub, and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas. Great for large groups, but reserve ahead for the best tables.
โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3
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BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www. mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A defi nite big Bangkok must, even if just the once.
jazz clubs
Diplomat Bar
รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล
BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.
บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน
DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www. conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed www.bangkok101.com
place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buy one-get-onefree Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for peopleogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual.
รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ
THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Road, 02-649-8888; sheratongrandesukhumvit. com. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Daily 10am- 12.30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The highceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host nightlife
to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch, a veritable institution.
รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14
NIU’S ON SILOM (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am Located not far from the Chao Phraya, this New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors from across the jazz world. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available.
นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม
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review HOUSE OF BEERS A few years back, House of Beers – or HOBS, as it’s better known – arrived on a beer-swilling scene dominated by shouty British theme pubs and sprawling German beer gardens. It immediately created waves among the more discerning drinker by bringing two things to market: imported Belgian beers, and an intimate, faux-medieval Belgian setting in which one could enjoy them without having to yell across the table. With its original location at Thonglor’s Penny’s Balcony busier than ever, HOBS last year spawned a second branch at Aree Garden, a debonair new lifestyle mall on Soi Ari Samphan, an area eagerly nipping at the heels of Thonglor in the affluent suburb stakes. Just like its predecessor, lots of exposed brick and warm oak lends it a convivial European mood, as does its intimate interior and stool-lined bar. Perfect for the upcoming cool season, there’s also an in-demand balcony terrace from which you can peer down onto the complex’s WHERE Aree Garden, chic courtyard landscaping. Soi Ari Samphan, 02-617-1600 Best of all, though, BTS Ari here you can indulge in the OPEN 11am-1am same esoteric line-up ranging from hoppy pale ales, like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden, to doubly fermented specials, like the earthy Kwak, plus fruit beers and mass-market brawlers, like Stella Artois. Each comes served in its own uniquely shaped glass and with an alcohol content that ranges from weak (2.8%) to potentially knockout (10%). If, like we are, you’re accustomed to iced glasses of the local Thai beer, best fill up on HOBS’s decent Tapas-style bar snacks first.
ฮอฟ ออฟ เบียร์ อารีย์ การ์เดน ซ.อารีย์สัมพันธ์
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Balcony Humidor
Cigar Lounges
Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898 www.bangkok101.com
Pubs 101
Silom AREA PUBS
Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.
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Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.
BTS Phrom Phong
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■ Bourbon Street 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Asoke | 02259-0328-9, 02-2594317 | 7am – 1am ■ HANRAHANS Sukhumvit Soi 4 l BTS Nana l 02-255-0644-5l daily 9am-1am ■ JAMESON’S Holiday Inn Silom, Gr. Fl, 981 Silom Rd, BTS Surasak, 02-2667703-5, daily 10am1am ■ MOLLY MALONE’S Convent Rd, Silom | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-2667160 | daily 9am-1am ■ O’REILLYS 62/1-4 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom l 02-632-7515 | daily 9am – 2am ■ The BARBICAN 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya Rd | 02-234-3590 | BTS Sala Daeng MRT Silom | daily 11:30am – 1am ■ THE BLACK SWAN 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok | MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2294542 | daily 8:00am – midnight ■ BULLY’S Sukhumvit Rd, btw Sois 2 & 4 | BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 | daily 11am-1am ■ THE DUBLINER 440 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-1841/2 | daily 9am-1am ■ THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON 323 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng l 02-234-2874 | daily 10am-1am ■ THE LONDONER Basement, UBC II Bldg. Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-261-0238/9 | daily 11am-1am ■ The Pickled LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-254-3484 | daily 2pm – 3am ■ the robin hood Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3390 | daily 10pm-midnight
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SHOPPING
unique boutique
Every month, we throw a spotlight onto one of Bangkok’s malls or markets, selecting the shops you need to check out, what to buy from them, as well as all the information you need to know on how to get there and navigate around
Urban Tree
K
hun Dee, the owner of this organic shop, wants Urban Tree to be seen as a mini-mart for the naturally addicted. Located in the historic Dusit district (close to Ratchawat, Sriyan and Banglumphu markets), the clean white exterior of this shop stands it apart from the area’s busy array of stalls and restaurants serving mouth-watering Thai-Chinese dishes. ‘Think globally; consume locally’ may sound like a corporate slogan, but it is a way of life for this Khon Kaen native. While volunteering as a community guide for exchange students visiting his hometown, he was amazed to discover that rice has more than one breed. Developing a close relationship with local villagers, his friendly demeanour helped him absorb the way they live and develop his knowledge of the fundamentals of green living. With a local and international clientele, some of his bestsellers are lotions, body skin care products, rice, tea, cosmetics and non-ionic (bubbleless) shampoo. Among the other products that fill the shelves in this converted shophouse are aromas that promise to reduce headaches; herbal homemade soaps that won’t leave you in a lather; and healthy herbal tea made from an old Thai folk recipe. If you’re looking for something in particular, the bilingual Khun Dee (Thai and English) is always happy to suggest the right product for you. As a part of the Thai Green Market movement, Urban Tree has extended its reach far beyond Samsaen, opening up temporary stalls at markets all over the city, including a spot at the Tonson Market down Soi Tonson (first and last Friday of the month), as well as a regular stall at Mission Hospital (Pitsanulok Road, Dusit) every Sunday. Through meeting the public, he’s getting to know their needs – and helping to spread his valuable message of green living. Pattarasuda Prajittanond
Where 934 Samsaen Soi 24, 02-2432989, 081-974-0290; urbantreeorganics. blogspot.com MRT Bang Sue (take taxi or tuk tuk from the station) OPEN Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm PRICE B15-B1,500
เออร์เบิ้น ทรี ถ.สามเสน 24
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shopping
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Demand around the world for unique-to-Thailand fashion is on the rise. In celebration, each month we cross-examine one of the talented designers driving this trend, be it a rising star with a point to prove, or a powerhouse style icon
fashion 1 on 1
Ek Thongprasert
L
ast month’s Elle Fashion Week gave the best Thai designers in the business a run on the catwalk over at CentralWorld. One of them, Ek Thongprasert, has just been singled out as one-to-watch by W Hotel’s Global Fashion director, New York It girl Jenné Lombardo. Shortly before debuting his meticulously tailored new collection, Curated, in front of the great-and-good of the local scene we grabbed a few quick words.
I think Thai designers have to find their own identity, their own style. Each and every collection that succeeds has a key word, a theme. Without it, it’s not possible to make a step forward and stand out. Bangkok is full of artistic resources – we have what it takes, I’m sure of it.
How did you get your start in the fashion world? Well, I’ve always been interested in art, global art. I have had quite a singular career. I started studying architecture in Bangkok, then I got a degree from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. But I never changed my goals, which were fashion production and design. I began with Curated, a conceptual fashion brand for men and women that mixes my background in design and fine arts with clothes. What inspired your latest collection? Well, movies and books inspire me a lot. I have to admit that literature tends to inspire me for women and movies for men. Lately, I really enjoyed the film version of Haruki Murakami’s famous novel Norwegian Wood and www.bangkok101.com
How, if at all, does Bangkok inspire your designs? I grew up here, so obviously I’m inspired by it. Each of my pieces are influenced by the local culture’s passion for craftsmanship. reading Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. This season, I was also inspired by tattoos, namely the designs of a Belgian tattoo artist I know. Why do you think Jenné Lombardo picked you? I think it’s because I tend to mix different kind of arts. Maybe it’s also because I see fashion as a global movement, and because I come from a subculture, am an underground designer. This fits the profile W Hotels were searching for: young designers who deserve to be elevated to a global level. What’s stopping Thai fashion from going global? shopping
Which are your favourite Thai labels? I love Stretsis, a Bangkok-based label created by three sisters. I love their globally appealing designs and smart marketing savvy: they got famous worldwide by getting international celebrities such as Beyonce to wear their clothes. Annabelle Azadé Kajbaf Available at: -Siam Center, 3rd floor -Siam Paragon Department Store (Menswear) -WWA Siam Square, Bangkok, Thailand www.curated.co.th www.ekthongprasert.be november 2011
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Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society; malls here are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are also restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and much more
mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.
BTS National Stadium
SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE
MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place
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CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam skytrain ststion to its Chit Lom counterpart.
u ri roa
SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults alike, who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.
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SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.
PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.
SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too. 3
RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal art from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.
Ratchadamri road
E R AWA N B A N G KO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.
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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong
charoen
EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.
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CENTRAL CHIDLOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers.The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.
phetburi road
ploenchit road
ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous ar t galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.
GAYSORN BTS Chitlom All-white interior features glitzy, top-class brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.
s u rawong
JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13
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new collection
Cool Tribe Mix @ Mob. F
T
he top all-in-one spot to get the lowdown on current Thai designers, Mob. F’s new autumn collection unites 40 brands of fashion and accessories under a jaunty ‘Cool Tribe Mix’ theme. Among the bright and bold items now on sale at the 1,000m² multibrand space – which mimics a typical department store only minus the stale, florescent lighting and annoying sales people – are mini and maxi dresses, colourful leggings, and floral and insect print blouses, skirts and shawls. Guys can look polished in modish jackets matched with colourbloc trousers, polka dot sweaters, and limited-edition handmade animal and natural prints. Accessory brands such as Aztique, Flow, Mono, 4 celsius, M Design, Sign In, and Paradise are on hand to complete your look. To sum it all up, if you’re looking to stand out in a rainbow of colours, rather than conventional tones like white, black, and grey, this autumn you’ve hit the fashion jackpot with Mob. F.
Eight&Half and Kangaroom @ Mob.F
WHERE 4th Floor, Siam Center | 02-658-1491~2 | www.mob-f.com BTS Siam PRICES B1,200-B6,500
สยาม เซ็นเตอร์
6Mirror @ Mob.F
ACBD @ Mob.F
Bhuchum and Gooddays @ Mob.F
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shopping
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SHOPPING
jatujak market
T
aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, citysized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally
take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites).
All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.
ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for more spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. The Jatujak Market of Bangkok, Amber House Books, B1,950, hardcover 86
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JJ Gem
of the month
MAE KLONG Not just soul music can be heard drifting from this shop. Listen carefully and you might hear the owner Parinya also overseeing a freestyle singalong. It’s no wonder given what he sells – African instruments like the kalimba (thumb piano), bongo drums, as well as assorted shakers, and the latest must-have craze among strum-happy musical Thais, ukuleles. The name of his small, cluttered shop Mae Klong doesn’t just refer to the name of a river, but is also actually a witty pun name derived from the combination of two of his most beloved things: his Mae (mother) and klong (drum). A shop with zero pretence, and a great sense of rhythm, it’s the kind of place where if you ask really nicely you may even get an impromptu lesson. Amornsri Tresarannukul Where Section 3 Soi 44/1 | 086-977-0265 | Facebook: Percussion Maeklong
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14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques
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1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories
Chatuchak Park Station
Mo Chit Station
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SHOPPING
markets
While the fancy designer, air-conditioned malls of Siam grab much of the attention, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, there’s no better way to discover the local retail experience than by heading to one of the city’s many interesting markets
Talat Rot Fai
Talat Rot Fai (The Train Market) Kamphaeng Phet Road | Mrt Kamphaeng Phet | 6pm-midnight Saturday and Sundays This retro-inflected flea market just around the corner from Jatuchak Weekend Market is well worth the trip, for its hipster vibes and camerafriendly setup as much as what’s sold there. Hundreds of antique hounds and retro-mad dek neaw (teen hipsters) flock to this plot of State Railway department land on Saturday and Sunday evenings to browse and bargain for vintage collectibles, reproductions and fashions. And yet, the chance to pick up a beat up old Michelin Tyre sign, a vintage BMX, or a smelly pair of old trainers is only part of the appeal – flanking Talad Rot Fai is a row of decommissioned train carriages. You can take a stroll through them at your leisure, even kick back on the dusty seats with a cold beer or rocket soda. Backing up the carboot side of things is Rod’s: a railway warehouse turned 20th century antiques wonderland. And 88
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there are lots of snacks and drinks stalls (retro-inflected, naturally), many of them operating out of customised VW vans. Hop aboard, while you can.
ตลาดรถไฟ
Ratchada Night Market Saturday Nights | In the area from BTS Parking lot to The Criminal Court – Ratchadapisek | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight shopping
and your bargaining skills.
ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา
Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are definitely essential here.
สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์
Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite www.bangkok101.com
sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in ‘novelty’ T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere new, sometimes bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff are splayed on the street for sale.
ถ.ข้าวสาร
PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around
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the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.
ปากคลองตลาด
THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.
เทเวศน์
Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts,
shopping
DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?
ถ.สุขมุ วิท
Pratunam Less than a ten minute walk north of CentralWorld, this sidewalk shopping maelstrom is famed for its bulk clothing deals and huge crowds. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress and great jeans at affordable prices. Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.
ประตูนำ้
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WELLNESS
spas
NICOLIE (map B4) 1041/5 Sun Square, Silom Rd btw Soi 21-23 | BTS Surasak | 02-233-6957 | www.nicolie-th.com | 11am-10pm | $$$ reservation recommended Gorgeous Southeast Asian antiques, a family atmosphere, and back-to-themassage basics approach – Nicolie manages to combine seemingly contradictory elements into one sublime experience. More like an elegant museum than a massage centre, keeping your eyes open to soak up the rare antiques is a challenge, however, once you’re in the hands of Nicolie’s therapists.The focus is almost exclusively on massage – Thai, Shiatsu, Ayuravedic Abhayanga, a wonderful fusion. Rub downs are slow, exquisitely attuned, and followed by tea and herbal cookies. Using a curtain to partition two bed rooms into separate section can lead to a certain lack of privacy at peak times. But in all, the expert massages and genuinely warm staff make this spa one of your new favourite.
นิโคลี่ ซันสแควร์ สีลม ซ.21-23
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Bangkok probably offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. In each issue we help you find the best rub-down for your baht, there’s no need to break the bank in order to get a good treatment ANNE SÉMONIN SPA (map C4) Sofitel Silom Hotel, 4th floor | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 x1244 or 1245 | 10am-10pm | $$$ The place for a luxe facial. Personalized treatments make ample use of the French beauty line’s upscale products, which are rich with essential oils and billed as perfect for pre- or postoperative pampering. Therapists have an exceptionally gentle, practiced touch – those who like a lot of kneading may be disappointed. But the light-handed lymphatic massage works wonders on puffy, sleep-deprived skin, so we aren’t complaining. Along with an exhaustive list of facial treatments, the spa also offers massage, body treatments, and waxing. Treatment rooms are lovely and quiet and service is well-polished, but for money like this, they should be. As professional as it is pricey, this spa would appeal to a more mature and well-established clientele, just the sort who might want a little lift – of more than one kind.
รร.โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ.สีลม
SPA cost
$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ All credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted wellness
LET’S RELAX (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-6935~7 | www.bloomingspa.com | 10am-midnight | $$ The Twisting tuk-tuk ride down Sukhumvit Soi 39 is worth it. This huge, white mock-antique house is impeccably clean, unpretentious and modestly-priced. Big enough to accommodate coach-loads (but eerily empty on our visit), Let’s Relax keeps it simple, its able therapists dishing out the treatments we spa-goers know and love in softly lit surround: foot/back and shoulder massages on the ground floor, trad Thai workouts on the second, the fancy stuff – aromatherapy, herbal saunas, fourhands massages etc – on the third. A B2,000 highlight: the invigorating 90-min hot stone massage, featuring volcanic, searing-hot stones that are nimbly slid across your dormant, oilscented body. Wonderful. Sick of those pokey joints where you’re scared to sneeze in case you break the monastic silence? With VIP treatment rooms for 2, 3 or 4 persons, and two capacious foot massage rooms, Let’s Relax is also perfect for garrulous types who like their spa-time to also be catch-up-time.
เล็ทส์รีแลกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.39
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Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.
ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)
Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has
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shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.
ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอกถ. เพลินจิต S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.
เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ
Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your
wellness
wellness centres body stay as clean as possible.
รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39 Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, drop-out treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package.
อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8
BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm This gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medilifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.
แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42
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sports MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after
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MUAY THAI venueS
Muay Thai
LUMPHINI BOXING STADIUM Rama IV Road, 02-251-4303. MRT Lumphini. Fights Tue & Fri from 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000 B1,500, B2,000 สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4
ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์
RATCHADAMNOEN STADIUM Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684. Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6.30pm-11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000, B1,500 ,B2,000
เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน
sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for community
your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2, Sukhumvit 39, 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680; spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours across Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The eye-opening Cycling SpiceRoads daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in other parts of Thailand. www.bangkok101.com
No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้
(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)
MEDITATION CLASSES Blue Elephant
COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi, 02-294-9029; baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.
รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี
BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Road, 02-673-9353; blueelephant.com. Prices from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. www.bangkok101.com
INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-222-6011; mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng. Free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.
สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน
MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Road, 02-622-3551, 02622-3533; www.watpomassage.com. Daily 8am-5pm. B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application community
classes on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.
โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย
CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Building, 87/104 Ekamai Road, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-711-5270; chivasomacademy.com. BTS Ekkamai. Prices from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล
อะคาเดมีโมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63
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CO M M U N I T Y Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile local causes you can become involved with. Every issue we highlight the work of a worthy charitable organisation, and provide details on how you too can help photos by Sumetha Petch-in & Duangkamol Amornpipat
making merit
RAIN OF DESTRUCTION
How to help Thailand’s flood victims
O
ver the past two months the worst floods in over 50 years have inundated much of the country. Monsoon rainwater has swept across 61 of Thailand’s 77 provinces, engulfing homes, factories and a large chunk of the nation’s all important rice crop. And as we write this, Bangkok hangs in the balance, with the authorities scurrying to beef up the city’s flood defenses before runoff from the north arrives at the same time as a surge in sea level caused by spring high tides. According to the Department of Disaster Prevention and Mitigation, the deluge has killed more than 280 people and directly affected 8.2 million since July 25, most of them in the country’s north and central plains. Many farmers have watched helplessly as their livelihood has been washed away. And rescue teams and government services been overwhelmed as they try to reach thousands of people stranded in their homes. The worst should, hopefully, be over as you read this but donations to help alleviate the suffering will no doubt still be necessary. Also, as the Mirror Group Foundation, an NGO working in the north, points out there is more than emergency relief to think about. “In a few weeks, the flood waters will recede and the media will leave, but the effects of the disaster will be felt for many months to come. The medium and long term aid campaign should focus on reconstruction, sanitation, health and hygiene, as well as the financial issues associated with any disaster.” How can you help? The fastest, most effective way is by donating cash to a humanitarian organisation conducting relief operations. Monetary donations are preferable to goods because aid can be bought at businesses near the affected area. This has the benefit of injecting cash into the local economy, and also saves on transportation costs. You can expect the money to be spent on equipment and materials for maintenance and rebuilding, food and clean 94
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water, new seeds for replanting of crops and whatever else is necessary to help get victims back on their feet. Bangkok 101 suggests donations to any of the organisations below – or you can do a quick search online to find an alternative.
Recommended Aid Organisations
-The Thai Red Cross www.redcross.or.th -World Vision www.worldvision.or.th -The Mirror Foundation www.mirrorartgroup.org
If you have a Thai bank account, you can also donate directly to the following organisations through an ATM: - Ruam Jai Chuay Phai Nam Tuam (The Heartfelt Help for Flood Victims Project) Bank: Krung Thai Bank, Nana Nua Branch Account Number: 000-033000-0 - Rajaprajanugroh Foundation Bank: Siam Commercial Bank, Palace’s Office sub-branch (Sanam Sua Pa) Account Name: Rajaprachanugrah Foundation Account Number: 401-636319-9
community
www.bangkok101.com
REFERENCE
Bangkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors alike. However, river and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the roads
getting around
6am-midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: half an hour) and costs B15-45 per journey; the Express Line stops at downtown station Makkasan only and costs B150 (journey time: 15 minutes). Until the end of 2011, as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers, express trains will also whiz between the airport and the last stop, Phayathai, the only one that intersects with the Skytrain, at half hour intervals (journey time: 18 minutes). The price for this promotion is B90 one-way, B150 for the roundtrip. Is the rail link worth using? That depends on where you’re coming from or heading to. Even if you’re staying centrally, you’ll find that an extra journey by taxi, tuk-tuk, skytrain or foot, and with luggage in tow, is probably necessary. http:// airportraillink.railway.co.th
time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.
RIVER CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.
TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.
RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Airport Rail Link A 28-km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangkok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from www.bangkok101.com
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much reference
ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with tuk-tuks, fares should be negotiated beforehand.
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. november 2011
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M Y B A N G KO K
Best place to relax Benjaisiri or Lumpini almost forget you’re in of Bangkok. They’re for people watching,
Park. You the middle also great of course.
Best place to impress a date If she doesn’t mind getting up early: breakfast at the Oriental Hotel. Best place for a real Bangkok experience ‘Por Kung Pao’ bar in Pinklao. Live bands, including the occasional guest appearance by well-known Thai artists, cheesy dance music, painfully loud, plus plenty of dancing around the tables. Great fun.
Ooh and the Ballyhoo Bright young sparks on our local indie scene are Ooh and the Ballyhoo, a tight four-piece who will release their debut album, The Other Stories, on Panda Records this month. Originally the solo project of Wasit “Ooh” Mookdavijit, formerly the singer for local indie bands Day Tripper and Crub, he enlisted friends from across the indie-sphere. Add a great name and catchy songs that flirt with Britpop and Post-Punk and you have one of the best new Thai bands of recent years. You can follow their every move on www.facebook.com/oohandtheballyhoo or twitter (OohTheBallyhoo). Best place for a drink You’re most likely to find us at our guitarist’s place, “The Living Room”, where we usually meet for a jam and a bit of banter. Best place to eat “Poj Spa Kar” in Thanon Tanao. They used to cook for the Royal Family, and what they serve is real traditional Thai food. Our drummer’s vegetarian, so he’s happy that they offer veggie options of many dishes. Not too long ago they were listed in a guidebook, so it can now get rather 96
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busy at times. Whenever it becomes too much for her, the owner simply locks the door. Got to love that. Best place to take visitors Golden Mount. It’s a nice, peaceful walk to the top, and the view over Bangkok is breathtaking. Best place to shop Patrice, Pong, and Bank love the music shops in Chinatown, near the Wat Tuek Intersection. Pretty much every Sunday, Ooh can be found roaming around JJ Market. mybangkok
Best place for live music Kong at RCA’s Cosmic Cafe has been putting on lots of great events for a while now. There is live music every single day of the week, which definitely deserves praise. Motorcycle Emptiness Bar, at Town in Town, is co-run by Panda Records, and caters to the more experimentalminded music enthusiasts. Bangkok needs venues like this. Festival-wise, Fat Fest and Big Mountain are great places to catch lots of Thai bands over the course of two days. We hope, though, that in the not too distant future, the organisers will find the courage to add more bands to the rather limited roster that usually headlines. There is so much talent out there!
THE SHORTLIST The Living Room: Serithai 57 Poj Spa Kar: 443 Thanon Tanao, 02-222-2686 Por Kung Pao: Pinklao Cosmic Café: RCA Block C, www.facebook.com/cosmiccafe.bkk Motorcycle Emptiness Bar: Town in Town, www.facebook. com/motorcycle.emptiness.bar Big Mountain Music Festival: http://bigmountainmusicfestival.com www.bangkok101.com