October2011 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

october 2011 100 baht

t h r o u g h t h e eliang y e sewe of his kingdom

Liang Ewe

metrobeat LE PETIT ZINC

travel CHIANG RAI CITY october 2011

food & drink SEVEN SPOONS shopping CRYSTAL DESIGN CENTER

publisher’s

letter

october 2011

Welcome to our October issue. The hawk-eyed among you will have noticed that over the course of this year we’ve been revisiting the country’s pictorial past, all thanks to a string of collaborations with Silom’s Kathmandu Photo Gallery. First up was S.H. Lim’s delicious retro-glam fashion photography from the 60s and 70s. Then came Rong Wong-savun, a retrospective of the trailblazing work of one of the Kingdom’s few counterculture icons. And now, this month, we complete the triumvirate of photofeatures drawn from the gallery’s Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers series with Liang Ewe: old portraits of Phuket’s dapper citizens drawn from the archives of the island’s number one studio. If you enjoy these cultural snapshots, which span the island’s transition from tin-mining backwater to tourism, head to Kathmandu this month for more. Elsewhere, editor Max Crosbie-Jones finds that Chiang Rai City is something of a cultural storehouse, and well worth at a day or two of discovery before you head for the countryside. Also in our travel section, we revisit the even more creatively energised capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, plus bring you the full rundown of watery festivals, from frantic boat races to flower flinging and fireball spotting, that will mark the end of Thai Buddhist Lent. Over in our always nicely bloated dining section, we scarf Taiwanese dumplings at Din Tai Fung; chomp on pizzas at casual new pizzeria Pizazzo; and tuck into seriously yum wholefoods in a natty Old City shophouse called Seven Spoons. We also check out the latest contender to be after the keenly fought best-burger-in-town medal, the Bangkok Burger Co., plus slurp noodle soup at ba-mee noodle bighitter, Sawang. Other highlights include reviews of Old City boutique Feung Nakorn Balcony, the Doll’s Museum, and the Crystal Design Centre, a mahoosive-mall strip on the outskirts that does a good line in chow and trinkets as well as eye-poppingly pricey home furnishings. We also chat with Krit Ngamsom, an artist currently celebrating (or satirising?) iconic artworks (including Damien Hurst’s infamous formaldehyde-preserved shark); and perennial Bangkok party-scene fixture, Pongsuang Note. In sum, there’s plenty in our October issue to see you through the last few weeks of the rainy season... and beyond. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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Kantary Bay, Phuket

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contributors Aree Khorchareon Self-taught photographer Aree Khorchareon (Chinese name ‘Khor Eng Lee’, 1911 – 1992) ran Phuket’s venerable old photography studio Liang Ewe during the mid to late 20th century. Though selftaught, his talent at directing his sitters and his technical proficiency kept his studio the favourite of the island’s elite until his death in 1992. The retrospective of his work on p.40 is taken from the latest installment in Kathmandu Photo Gallery’s ‘Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers’ series.

Philip Cornwel-Smith Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and news for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Chris Menist Chris Menist is a writer, DJ and musician who has been based in South Asia since 2006. He is a regular contributor to Songlines magazine, and his writing has appeared in The Independent, The Observer, FACT and Straight No Chaser. If you like his column, check out his DJ partner Maft Sai’s record label ZudRangMa, either online at zudrangmarecords.com or at its shop, which has just relocated to a new location on Sukhumvit Soi 51, next door to WTF Bar.

Steven Pettifor British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he publishedc coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing about art, he is often found travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Dave Stamboulis Greek-born but Californiaraised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he works for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, while his travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Editorial Assistant Amornsri Tresarannukul Adul Waengmol Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Simon Ostheimer, Chris Menist, Howard Richardson, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Korakot Punlopruksa, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2011. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

october 2011

snapshots

food & drink

sightseeing

56 57 64 65 66

6 8 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

101 picks metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: whisky mixer tables

orientation riverside temples historical homes & shrines museums museum focus : Bangkok doll museum parks & zoos kids in the city room 101 : feung nakorn

travel 26 27 28 32

hotel deals upcountry now upcountry escape : chiang rai city over the border : phnom penh

arts 34 36 38 39 40

exhibitions art 1-on-1 : krit ngamsom performing arts reading & screening photo feature: liang ewe

46 47 48 50 55

dining in bangkok meal deals street eats featured restaurant neighbourhood nosh : soi rangnam river cruises restaurants brunch dessert wine

nightlife 68 70 72 74 76 78 79 80 81

one night in bangkok clubs bars with a view hotel bars & clubs bars live music jazz clubs pub review: bully’s nightlife areas

shopping 82 84 86 88

spotlight : crystal design center mall crawl jatujak market markets

wellness 90 91

spas signature treatment : rembrandt hotel’s oriental fusion

community 92 93 94

sports classes making merit

reference 95 On the cover: a mid-20th century lady poses at Liang Ewe, Phuket’s venerable photo studio

getting around

my bangkok 96

my bangkok : pongsuang note

HOTEL PARTNERS

S N A P S H OT S

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer

SHOPPING

THAI STYLE

DINING

OPEN AIR

NIGHTLIFE

■ Jatujak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.86).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and ﬁsh, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.94).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.64).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.19,22).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.69-81).

■ Pak KhlongTalad Pick up more pretty posies than you know what to do with at this 24-hour ﬂower market (p.89).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.93).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.17).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.76).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest ﬂicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.84).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.93).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop (p.56).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.92).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-ﬂier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.72).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars.

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.92).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.47).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature (p.27).

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a ﬁne meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.56).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t ﬁnd it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.84).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.37).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.48).

■ Lumphini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.22).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a danceﬂoor for you (p.81).

■ Central Chidlom Features seven ﬂoors of fashion, shoes and accessories, plus some of the best dining in town at the Food Loft (p.84)

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.19).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable ﬁne dining (p.50).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.89).

■ Thai Theatre Traditional Thai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.37).

october 2011

snapshots

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The Stylish

New Way to Sleep in Bangkok

seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com

S N A P S H OT S

metro beat

Our man about town Howard Richardson presents the lowdown on what’s on and what’s in. Read on for the picks of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, happenings and openings, plus all the essential events you can’t afford to miss

POP & ROCK

JAZZ & BLUES

St Louis Emo rockers Story of the Year bring uplifting titles like ‘Until The Day I Die’, and ‘Anthem of Our Dying Days’ to Centerpoint Studio on October 7. Tickets are B1,200 from Total Reservation (02-833-5555, www. totalreservation.com). Centrepoint is on Soi Lasalle, close to BTS Bearing Station. Known for gigs in India’s Taj Mahal, China’s Forbidden City and the Acropolis in Greece, Yanni will attempt his trademark ostentation at Bangkok’s Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on October 18. The keyboardist with a background of Hollywood ﬁlm scores Grammy nominations and orchestral accompaniment is here on the back of his latest album Truth Of Touch. Tickets are B2,000-B5000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The self-proclaimed “Hit Man”, David Foster has written or produced songs like ‘I Will Always Love You’, ‘Unforgettable’ and ‘Breathless’. He returns to Bangkok with vocalists Michael Bolton, Charice, Philip Bailey and Russell Watson at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on October 31. Tickets are B1,000-B5,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). London indie rock band White Lies have been likened to a poppier Joy Division, with a dark but accessible sound, and have two albums and a bit of a buzz to their name. Catch them at Moonstar Studio on October 28. Tickets are B1,200 up to three days before the gig, B1,800 thereafter. For more details see www.dudesweet.org.

Danny Woody & Friends at Niu’s on Silom (02-266-5333) on October 7, sees American vocalist Danny Woody, previously with the Shanghai All Star Big Band, sing Nat King Cole, Frank Sinatra and Big Joe Williams. He’s backed by a band featuring guitarist Jerry Byrd, a veteran of dates with the likes of Sonny Stitt, Dizzy Gillespie and Roland Kirk; and pianist Tom Finlay, who’s played with Bud Freeman and Scott Hamilton. Free entry. Flying in from Barcelona, the Ignasi Terraza Trio return to The Living Room in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-649-8353) from October 11-13. The band play swing, bebop and blues of the type they recorded on the soundtrack of John Travolta’s movie From Paris with Love. The entrance fee of B1,200 includes two standard drinks.

FESTIVAL Held at several Indian temples around Bangkok from September 28 until October 6, the tenday Navaratri Festival has its main focus at Sri Maha Mariamman (or Wat Khaek) temple on Silom Road. The religious rites in honour of the Hindu Mother Goddess peak on the ﬁnal day with fevered processions, mantras, music and food stalls. Locals dressed in white will also smash coconuts in the street. 8

october 2011

ART At the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (www.bacc.or.th, 02-214-6630) until October 6, the exhibition Masks of Asia shows 250 masks from Japan, China, Thailand, Korea, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Tibet and India borrowed from the Orient Foundation Museum, in Lisbon. Materials include papier-mâché, paper, textile, wood, skin and brass, while the themes incorporate fantastic animals, divinities and demons used in religious rituals and performance. Admission free. Up on the 7th ﬂoor until October 16, Emerging Patterns features paintings by 29 young southern artists from the four provinces of Songkla, Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat. Some one-hundred works will showcase the on-going trends and current thinking of these emerging talents on the southern seaboard. Admission free. Village and Elsewhere, a solo video and photography exhibition by Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook, is at 100 Tonson Gallery (02-684-1527) from October 6-November 20. Araya, a veteran of shows at the Venice and Sydney Biennales, here creates a “conversation” between her local Chiang Mai area and paintings by Van Gogh, Manet and others. The gallery is open Thur-Sun, 11am-7pm. Admission free.

snapshots

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EVENTS

THEATRE The Bangkok International Festival of Dance & Music continues at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-2470028) between until October 16. The Flying Superkids gymnastics team from Denmark start the month on Oct 1 and 2, followed by The Blue Planet Live! (a HD ﬁlm accompanied by orchestra and choir on Oct 3), and the opera The Tsar’s Bride on Oct 6. Other highlights are a concert featuring Borodin’s Symphony No.2 and Beethoven’ Symphony No.9 (Oct 7th); another opera The Marriage of Figaro (8th); and Flamenco Dance (15th and 16th). Ticket prices vary, but generally run from B700-B2,200. Details available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. t h a i t i cke t m a j o r. co m) . Characters from The Mermaid, Aladdin Little Mermaid and Toy Story team up for Disney Live! Mickey’s Music Festival at the Royal Paragon Hall (02-6108011) from October 21-24. The touring show has Disney hits remixed into varied music styles, including hip hop, swing, reggae and rock. Performances are at 11am, 3pm and 6.30pm; tickets are B900-B2,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The musical FRANKLY ... I Was a Fool for Love returns to the Living Room in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-649-8353) from October 30 to November 6. Actor Richard Shelton plays Frank Sinatra in a story set in the Key Club in 1966, singing songs like ‘Fly Me to the Moon’, ‘My Funny Valentine’ and audience requests. Prices start at B1,200++ for the show only, including two standard drinks; and for the show plus dinner and two standard drinks at The Living Room, prices run from B2,500++.

WELLNESS Tarot reader and stress management guru Anup Karlsson is in residence at the Oriental Spa, in the Mandarin Oriental hotel (02-659-9000) from October 15 to November 15. He will hold free lectures on Oct 17 and 21, and otherwise conducts therapy sessions on tarot, energy healing and empowerment coaching for B4,900++ an hour. www.bangkok101.com

There’s a chance to see a rarelystaged Royal Kathin Barge Procession on the Chao Phraya River on October 22, when royal family members travel in a fleet of 52 traditional barges rowed by 2,200 sailors to present saffron robes to monks at Wat Arun. The event marks Awk Phansa, the end of the three-month Buddhist rains retreat. Also travelling will be the highly revered Buddha image, Phra Buddha Sihing. This ancient tradition was revived by HM King Bhumibol in 1959, and has happened just 16 times since. HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn leads the procession, starting from Vasukri Pier at 3.30pm and ending an hour later at Wat Arun. During the Bangkok Vegetarian Festival, running until October 5, the streets of Chinatown will be a riot of cooking demonstrations, parades and Chinese opera, particularly along and around Yaowarat and Charoen Krung roads. The Swissôtel Nai Lert Park (02-253-0123) continues its 25th Silver Jubilee Flower Show until Oct 2. Displays include a floral Naga (water god) with underwater elements and celebrity garden creations. The dog and owner matching outfi ts competition could be amusing, and, intriguingly, there’s a free tree with every ticket (B120 from Thai Ticketmajor, 02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The Nai Lert heritage home is also open to the public.

FOOD & DRINK Bangkok’s default location for Oktoberfest is Central World and this year they have a World All Day Dining Restaurant, at Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre (02-100-6522). Free ﬂow imported Paulaner beer, sausages, pretzels and strudels are just some of the German and Austrian goodies on offer every Saturday night throughout October for B1,190++ per person 2011. Big Bite Bangkok, billed as “a food tasting market”, is in the parking lot of the Maduzi Hotel (02-615-6400) from 11am-3pm on October 16, to coincide with World Food Day. It works like this: you pay B200 to get in (which goes to charity) and several small scale Bangkok food producers provide food for you to taste and then sell you what you might want to buy. The organisers say some of their proceeds will also go to charity.

snapshots

october 2011

S N A P S H OT S

SPORTS & GAMES

RESTAURANT

The ﬁnal rounds of the PTT Thailand Open at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on Oct 1 and 2 feature whoever remains of tennis stars such as Andy Murray, Robin Soderling and Gael Monﬁls, all in the world’s top seven. Tickets, available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), are B800-B4,500. On October 5 at Bangkok’s Supachalasai Stadium, The Legends of Liverpool Fundraising Tour of Thailand 2011 sees old-timers from the English Premier League team Liverpool play old-timers from Thailand. The likes of John Barnes, Robbie Fowler and Steve McMannaman will tackle local stars such as Piyapong Pue-On and Zico in a bid to raise funds for charities including the Thai Red Cross. Tickets are at Total Reservation (02-833-5555) and there’s more information at www.footballlegendtour.com. Proclaimed as “the only race in Bangkok to be held at midnight”, the Amari Watergate & BMW Thailand Charity Midnight Run sets off on Oct 8. The organisers expect 5,000 runners for the 6k and 12k routes, divided into groups of male, female and various ages. The post-run cocktail party at Henry J. Bean’s Bar & Grill could be interesting. Get more details from www.amari.com or call 02-653-9000. Feliks Zemdegs may not be a household name – even in his native Australia – but the World Number One is in Bangkok for the 2011 World Rubik’s Cube Championships at the Baiyoke Sky Hotel (02-6563000) from October 14-16. World number two, Thailand’s Nipat Charoenpholphant, will also be strongly fancied among the 350 competitors from 40 countries. They will compete for prize money topping 24,000 euros in 19 events, including speed tests, blindfolded, one-handed, and feet-only.

LE PETIT ZINC

NIGHTLIFE Between October 28 and 31 Concept CM2 at the Novotel Siam Square (02209-8888) transforms into the CM2 Haunted House for Halloween. They promise “rooms, compartments and secret passageways inhabited by scary devils, rotting zombies and blood-thirsty vampires”. There’s also a chamber of dance and pleasure, with the eight-piece band Blaze-In performing hip hop, pop and R&B. BarSu, in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-649-8353) has an RIP Halloween Party on October 29, which invites you to dress up like your favourite dead person (your old granddad would actually be way cooler than Michael Jackson). Hot Gossip supply live music. Entry is free. 10

october 2011

Muriel and Thomas Dazard left France for a sea change and set up this chic little bistro in July. It hits lots of high notes, from the Art Nouveau ceiling under the mezzanine to cured meats hung from gallows on the bar. Diners sit at stylish bare wood furniture; there’s a faux blackboard wine list; silent movies; and patio windows sliding open to terrace seats. The menu has stalwarts such as prawn bisque, duck confi t, chocolate lava cake and a choice of five cheeses, plus a few surprises like well made oxtail ravioli in clean, flavoursome beef consommé. In salmon and seabass tartare duo, the latter has a Tahitian twist, served in a glass with coconut soup and coriander. Coquille St Jacques comes with plump scallops and tasty – although oily – leek tossed with pasta. Entrecote – a 200-gram slab of well-cooked medium rare rib-eye served on a wooden board with frites – is the most expensive main dish at B590; nearly all others are B390. House wines (B125/glass with 50cl carafes from B450) are good drinkers, including a dry, light, acidic German Riesling and even a dessert wine by the glass. A smart bistro with proper bistro prices: this will surely succeed. I’ll be back. If I can get a seat.

เลอ เปอตี แซง สุขุมวิท ซ.23

WHERE 110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-259-3033 OPEN Tue-Sun 11am-midnight. PRICE $$

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S N A P S H OT S

history

Wat Po

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic. The core of the new city

october 2011

encompasses the Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

It’s a Record Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and ofﬁcial name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise that Guinness World Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

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chronicle of thailand

roops killed at least 70 students and more than 800 were injured when attempts to disperse demonstrators outside Chitralada Palace descended into chaos. The Bangkok Post initially reported at least 400 killed as troops opened fire on the protestors. The figure was revised downward in the days following the riots. Exactly how many died is unknown, but official accounts put the number at 77, with 857 injured. It remains unclear exactly how the bloodshed started, particularly given the apparent truce reached between the Thanom regime and student leaders the night before. Some reports said the mayhem began when tear gas was fired into the tens of thousands of protesters who had remained outside the palace. Others said troops, under the command of Col Narong Kittikachorn, opened fire around the palace and Democracy Monument, with Narong himself reportedly machine-gunning students from a helicopter. As the conflict escalated, protestors came onto the streets in increasing numbers, and violent battled raged throughout the day. Thousands of students took refuge inside the walled campus of Thammasat University. In response, soldiers fired through the gates and from helicopters. Groups of student ‘commandos’, meanwhile, engaged troops and police across the city, hurling Molotov cocktails, seizing vehicles and taking over and setting fire to official buildings, including the Metropolitan Police Headquarters. Running battles between fearless protesters and machine-gun wielding police raged through the night. On the night of 14 October, the King, who had opened up the grounds of his Chitralada Palace as a refuge for fleeing students, told the nation: ‘Today is a day of great sorrow, the most grievous in the history of our Thai nation.’

14 OCTOBER 1973: MORE THAN 70 PROTESTORS KILLED BY SOLDIERS

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books B1,450, editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman, www.chronicleofthailand.com www.bangkok101.com

snapshots

october 2011

S N A P S H OT S

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

DID YOU KNOW?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

THE MONARCHY Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. SOCIAL HIERARCHY Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 14

october 2011

Ananta Samakhom Palace Throne Hall

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

LOSING FACE Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (“never mind”). BODY PARTS The head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

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very thai

WHISKY MIXER TABLES NIGHTLIFE ETIQUETTE

Photo by Philip Cornwel-Smith

hisakee soda – the drink of choice among all Thai classes, all sexes, in all venues, from hotel to nightclub to roadside shack. Before the 1997 crash Thailand drank more Johnny Walker Black Label than all bar Japan and America. But order a glass and you may be refused. You might have to buy the bottle. At some suburban clubs that’s the cost of admission. No sign states ‘Groups Only’ but solo drinkers are virtually pariahs. Even twosomes are troublesome with their potential for disagreement or silences that three or more friends would prevent. Alcohol’s famed for loosening social divisions, yet in Thailand it reinforces them. Drinking etiquette lubricates the hierarchy, while the urge to conform keeps the range of drinks remarkably narrow. Identity depends on rank within one’s group. And status lies in the liquor brand that’s ordered – plus the way it’s served. Whisky reflects the wallet: from roughest rum-like Mekong to smoother Saeng Som laced with lime; from Spey Royal blended Scotch up to show-off Chivas Regal. Meanwhile, beer comes in bottles and pitchers big enough for a gang to sup. That’s the idea. Decanting lager into glasses – often on the rocks – distributes joy to all and roles to each. Most Thais drink from a shared source, whether it be a bottle of Black, a pitcher of Singha beer, or a jug of kamikaze cocktail sprouting one straw per mouth. A Saeng Thip and Red Bull cocktail may get mixed in the ice bucket itself – a practical solution on dancefloors, for the hinged handle prevents spillage as you dance. By day, street workers like motorcycle taxi drivers share the same communal technique. Whatever class the coterie, the most junior pours, the most senior pays, while extroverts propose relentless toasts of chai yo! – cheers!

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

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snapshots

october 2011

SIGHTSEEING Phraeng Bhuthorn

orientation

Cha

Thewet & Dusit

hr a

Ko Rattanakosin

hray

Chinatown

THONBURI

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

october 2011

GREATER BANGKOK

city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

is where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.19), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

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the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: PHRA ATHIT Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

d. tR hi At ra

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5: RATCHAWONGSE Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Ra t

KL PHR AO A P BR OK ID GE

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

Rd.

N6: MEMORIAL BRIDGE/ SAPHAN POOD Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

ch aw on

N6 Wat Arun

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det

Phra

Cha

o Ta

ksin

Peninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

Som

SAPHAN TAKSIN The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N2: SRI PHAYA On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Chinatown

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

N9: THA CHANG Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Amulet Market

N15: THEWET Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N13

Wat Mahatat

N8: THA TIEN Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.18) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

N15

N10

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10: WANG LANG Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.38) are all in the vicinity.

RA GE PHRID ET B D O M LA SO K N PI

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

N1 TAK S

IN B

Shangri-la

RID

N1: ORIENTAL The old western quarter. Admire n e g l e c t e d neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

SapanTaksin

sightseeing

october 2011

SIGHTSEEING

temples

setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร ผัง่ ตะวันตกของแมนำ้ เจาพระยา

their teeth.

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang| 02222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm| B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Hike up its 318 steps and this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside.

WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแกว ถ.หนาพระลาน (ใกลสนามหลวง)

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the 18

october 2011

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free This 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect is also an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines, amulets and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism here are available in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ทาพระจันทร สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai era statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in sightseeing

วัดสุทัศน ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tones and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million. Within the compound, the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre is an accessible museum detailing the history of the area and its settlers.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www. watpho.com | 8amnoon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can learn this ancient healing art.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

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JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) The home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of Thai silk, is a must see. In a sundappled tropical garden beside a pungent canal, six traditional teak houses brim with the art and antiques he rescued from around Asia: from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Regular group tours led by silk-clad female guides introduce you to these exquisite treasures and the life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ตรงขามสนามกีฬาแหงชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by

appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.

บานหมอมราชวงศคึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-2811569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display,

historic homes including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day.

พระทีน่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ

WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

SHRINES Apart from all the Buddhist temples, Bangkok is also studded with small shrines dedicated to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom The swarming shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main www.bangkok101.com

entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances, offer nine red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

พระตรีมูรติ หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด sightseeing

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Quite possibly Thailand and the world’s most recognisable Hindu deity due to its distinctive appearance, a silent prayer in front of this potbellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, Ganesha is thought to be partial to bananas, ripe mango and sticky rice-flour Thai desserts, so make sure you prepare the correct foodstuffs accordingly.

พระพิฆเนศวร หนาหางอิเซตัน ศูนยการคาเซนทรัลเวิลด

october 2011

SIGHTSEEING

The National Museum

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ ถ.เจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02-6222599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am6pm | B300 (free between 4-6pm) A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 20

october 2011

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑการเรียนรู แหงชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Museum of Siam

sightseeing

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museum focus

BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM

inding the Bangkok Doll Museum is no easy task, tucked away as it is down Soi Yaek Ratchata Phan (more commonly known as Soi Mor Leng), just off Rajapraprop Road. However, since its opening in 1956, it has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike, with its remarkable collection of extremely rare hand-made Thai dolls. The museum was founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan. From small beginnings, her Bangkok Dolls have become known worldwide, and are particularly notable for their use of Thai silk and sarongs as clothing. The museum is essentially a showcase for the dolls still being produced by a small team of exceptionally talented artisans in the attached workshop, selected for their knowledge of folklore, culture and dance from different areas and villages throughout Thailand. If you’re familiar with the delicate movements and postures of classical Thai dance, you might be able to understand the challenges in making a Bangkok Doll. Using skills honed over many years, the gifted artisans use their dexterous hands to sew and mold with meticulous care to produce the collectibles. The collections displayed include ‘Thai People Throughout History’, ‘Hilltribes of Thailand’, ‘Thai Country People’, ‘Thai Classical Dance-Drama’, ‘Thai Nativity’, and ‘Cuddly Dolls’ – the latter aimed at the children’s market. Authenticity is taken very seriously, as the museum itself points out, ‘Extensive research precedes each design. Antique costumes have been based on museum originals, temple murals, and illustrations from antique books. Contemporary costumes such as those of the Farmer and Hilltribe dolls faithfully reproduce the clothing and ornaments of these people.’ Once upon a time, these traditional Thai dolls shared a similar esteemed status to Kabuki dolls in Japan, though now, sadly having lost their central place in Thai culture, they are mostly seen as just pleasant souvenirs. Visit the Bangkok Doll Museum to learn more about this fascinating part of Thailand’s past – and help guarantee their future. Krittana Khurana

WHERE 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng), Ratchaprarop Rd., 02-245-3008; www.bangkokdolls.com OPEN Mon-Sat 8am-5pm PRICE Free

บานตุกตาบางกอกดอลล ถ.ราชปรารภ

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sightseeing

october 2011

SIGHTSEEING

parks & zoos FLORA BANG KRACHAO Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan, 02-461-0972. Daily 6am-8pm Often referred to as the ‘Lung of Bangkok’, it’s almost hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included in this park is the 200-rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for 30 baht. Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down to the Bang Nam Pueng Floating Market.

บางกระเจา พระประแดง

JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Road, Ladyao, Jatujak, 02-272-4358. Daily 5am6.30pm. Free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Par k has a pret ty botanical garden.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Roads. Free The biggest and most popular slice of green in Central Bangkok. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the 22

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Bang Krachao

front of which a grand statue of King Rama VI stands watchful guard.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Road, behind Seri Center, Pravet, 02-328-1972. Daily 5.30am-7pm. B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.

SARANROM PARK (map A3) Intersection of Rachini and Charoenkrung Roads, Phra Nakhon. Daily 5am-8pm. Free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.

สวนสราญรมย แยกราชินี ถ.เจริญกรุง

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังพาราไดส พารค) ประเวศ

ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (Suan Sampram) (off map) 32 Phet Kasem Road, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom, 03-4322544; www.rosegardenriverside.com Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf course, spa, organic farm and botanical gardens.

โรสการเดน ริเวอรไซด สวนสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม sightseeing

Rama IX Royal Park

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KIDS IN THE CITY Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.84) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones. The city’s parks (see opposite) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.88), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. If you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www. bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old.

FUNARIUM (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000sqm of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent on-site café for lunch and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟนเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

FAUNA BANGKOK BUTTERFLY GARDEN (map D1) Kamphaeng Phet 3 Road, Jatujak, 02272-4359. Tue-Sun & Public Holidays 8.30am-4.30pm. Free This dome-enclosed sanctuary houses over 500 species of butterflies fluttering freely in the mazes of the landscaped gardens, with their wild flowers, canopied benches, ponds and waterfalls. Besides butterflywatching, visitors can picnic or rent a bicycle for around B30.

อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ สวนรถไฟ ถ.เพชรเกษม จตุจักร

DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Road, opposite Chitralada Palace, Dusit, 02-281-2000. Daily 8am-6pm. Adults B100, children B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. There’s also a lake with paddle boats for rent.

สวนสัตวดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5

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QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (SNAKE FARM) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Road, Henri Dunant, 02-252-0161-4 ext.120. Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9.30 am-12pm (shows at 11am & 2.30pm). B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is open to the public. There’s an informative slide show followed by live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

SIAM OCEAN WORLD (map C3) B/F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, 02-687-2001; www.siamoceanworld. com. Daily 10am-7pm. B650-B850 There’s fun to be had here, with 8 metre high tanks, glass tunnels to walk through, and shark-feeding shows. A ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs an extra fee.

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

SAMPHRAN ELEPHANT GROUND & ZOO (off map) Petkasem Road Km 30, Samphan, Nakhon Pathom, 02-295-2938; www.elephantshow.com. Daily 8.30am5.30pm. Adults B550, children B350 Apart from The Elephant Theme Show, watch the Crocodile Wrestling Show or ride on an elephant’s back through the tropical gardens and waterfalls

ลานแสดงชางและฟารมจระเขสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม สามพราน sightseeing

Samphran Elephant

october 2011

SIGHTSEEING

room 101

In every issue, we put our heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok hospitality, uncovering the newest hostels, B&Bs, hotels, and various other cool lodgings that you need to check out on your next stay in this, the City of Angels

FEUNG NAKORN BALCONY

ancy soaking up history in the centre of old Bangkok? If so, Feung Nakorn Balcony, a one-year-old family-run hotel named after the road on which it sits, is a winner. One of the first western-style roads to be built during the reign of King Rama V, Feung Nakorn Road, with its shophouse stores that have been in business for generations, exudes a nostalgic Bangkok feel. Stay here and you can revel in this – and the fact that you’re only a short stroll (and we mean short stroll – 10 minutes at most) from bighitting historical sites like Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. Most rooms here are tucked down a side alley, in a U-shaped four storey building that used to be the neighbourhood elementary school. Before you reach this converted building, though, there’s a big courtyard that no doubt used to be the noisy school yard but is now a relaxing retreat at the end of a long day, especially Tanao Bar. Centered around this courtyard, rooms

october 2011

in this main wing range from 60m² Grand Suites with your own small but private patio to cosier standard and dorm rooms. All come decorated in a simple modern Thai style, with earthy tones, and, in the pricier rooms, vintage scrapbook-like illustrations on the walls above the white bed. In a front building there are also 3 suites done out in a less funky, more classic style. Green art deco ceiling lamps and low teak wood furniture transport you to an upper class Thai home in the early 20th century. Add balconies and views of the famous Rajchabophit Temple across the road and you have the best rooms in the place. Isolated from the shopping districts, Feung Nakorn Balcony is not for those left cold by old world attractions. If you aren’t, however, and want the option of going wild (Khao San is a 15 minute walk) and feasting on some of the city’s best local food (the old shophouse kitchens of Tanao Road are even closer), you know where to check-in. Amornsri Tresarannukul

เฟองนคร บัลโคนี่ ถ.เฟองนคร ( ขางวัดราชบพิธ)

sightseeing

WHERE 125 Feungnakorn Rd. (Near Ratchabophit Temple), Watratchabophit, Pranakhon, 02-622-1100; www.feungnakorn.com PRICES B650-B4,200

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sightseeing

october 2011

T R AV E L

hotel deals

Whether you’re thinking about taking a trip ‘upcountry’ to the jungles of the north, heading on a trip to the little travelled northeast, or planning a weekend on an island in the sun, we’ve uncovered the best of this month’s hotel deals

Until Oct 31 Rock Star Life Package Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya, 038-428755, rooms.pattaya@hardrockhotels. net; http://pattaya.hardrockhotels.net The Hard Rock Pattaya is offering you the chance to stay in its recently revamped premium rooms and suites, up on its exclusive club floor, for discounted rates. Prices per night range from B5,120 for a city view room to B7,520 for a family suite sea view room, and include express check-in, breakfast, all day refreshments at the King’s Club Lounge, complimentary wi-fi and laundry (4 pieces), plus, the clincher: 3pm check-out.

Until Oct 31 25% Discount at Rachamanka Rachamanka Hotel Chiang Mai, 053904-111, reservations@rachamankha. com; www.rachamanka.com Chiang Mai’s Rachamanka is offering a 25% discount for our readers this month. Simply quote Bangkok 101 when making your reservation. Perfectly located in the centre of the moated old city, the Rachamankha is just one minute’s stroll from its most important and impressive temple, Wat Phra Singh. The 22-room and 2-suite boutique hotel is set in 2 acres of manicured grounds and pays homage to Chiang Mai’s golden age.

Until Oct 31 Best Package Guarantee Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort, leMéridien.com/chiangrai; www.AirAsiaGo.com The Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort and one-stop travel website AirAsiaGo have joined forces to launch the ‘Best Package Guarantee’. Starting from B4,999 per person (inclusive of tax, based on double occupancy), this attractive offer includes the best Air Asia rates for one Bangkok to Chiang Rai round trip air ticket, and two nights accommodation at Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort in a deluxe garden view room with breakfast.

Until Oct 31 Amazing Summer Package Amari Coral Beach Phuket, 076-340106; www.amari.com Enjoy the charms of the Andaman at Amari Coral Beach Phuket by taking a break with their amazing new late summer special. Package includes threenight accommodation in Superior Room including daily breakfast for two persons, roundtrip airport transfer, B500 food and beverage credit per stay and 20 per cent discount on laundry. Rate starts from B12,100 per three nights per room (excluding of VAT and service charge).

Until Nov 30 Family & Friends Villa Maroc Resort, 032-630-771, rsvn@villamarocresort.com; www.villamarocresort.com Treat your family to a night in a two bedroom villa for B17,500++ during weekdays and B18,900++ during weekends, or, a luxurious Royal Villa for only B27,500++ for a weekday getaway and B28,900++ on the weekend. The package includes breakfast for four persons, complimentary non-alcoholic mini-bar, WiFi connection, and a set dinner.

Until Dec 24 Green Season Rates Centara Mae Sot Hill Resort, 02-1011234 ext. 1; www.centarahotelsresorts. com/WebSaver.asp Centara Mae Sot Hill Resort has a special rate between now and 24 December. A Superior room during this time is B1,020, and a Deluxe room B1,220, breakfast included. Room rates are on the basis of two persons sharing and are subject to service charge and government tax. Complimentary room stay is available for a maximum of two children under 12 years of age.

october 2011

travel

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END OF BUDDHIST LENT

upcountry now

October 12 heralds the end of Buddhist Lent, the threemonth ‘rains retreat’ during which monks remain in their monasteries to avoid trampling rice plants on their daily walks, a practice that dates from the Buddha’s time. Marking the end of their confinement and the rainy season, Awk phansa finds people visiting their local temple to pray, monks being offered new robes, and is most notable for the nationwide torrent of festivals, some solemn, others fun-filled.

NAGA FIREBALLS Between 6pm and 9pm on the final night of Buddhist Lent, smokeless, soundless fireballs begin to rise from the Lao side of the Mekong before disappearing. Legend has it that this display in the northeast’s Nong Khai province is naga (mythical serpents) shooting fireballs into the sky to welcome Buddha back from Tavatimsa heaven. Others think them the result of methane gas bubbling up from the river bed, while a Thai TV program even posited that they might be the work of trigger-happy Lao soldiers. All anyone knows for certain is that the best place to observe the Naga Fireballs phenomenon on October 12 will be the riverbank village of Phon Phisai. The friendly Mut Mee Guesthouse (042-460717, www.mutmee. com) in Nong Khai is laying on a boat trip, including lunch and dinner and one glass of wine, for B2,700 per person.

BUFFALO RACES You should be able to guess what goes on at this uniquely Thai event, as jockeys and their water buffalo scamper towards the finish line. Held on October 11-12, Chonburi province’s annual Buffalo Races takes place near City Hall and coincides with the end of Khao Pansa, or Buddhist Lent. Beauty pageants and a healthiest buffalo contest also take place.

FLOWER THROWING

WAX FESTIVAL

At the Rap Bua Flower Ceremony in Samut Prakan province a large Buddha image is placed on a boat and floated down the town’s waterway, Khlong Samrong. Locals lining the banks then toss freshly cut lotus flowers (rap bua means ‘receiving lotuses’) onto the passing vessel to pay homage. This flower shower, staged October 11 to mark the end of Buddhist Lent, is rooted in a legend about an image of Buddha that was once seen floating down the river.

Up in deepest Isaan, Sakhon Nakorn province’s Wax Castle Festival sees a grand procession of castles carved in beeswax parade through town to celebrate the end of, you guessed it, Buddhist Lent. Traditional Issan performances and folk dances also feature. It is also accompanied by the very popular long boat races with a trophy from HRH Princess Sirindhorn up for grabs. It takes place October 8-12.

ILLUMINATED BOAT FESTIVAL

BOAT RACING Long-tail boat racing with a difference – while the winner of other traditional Thai boat races is decided by who crosses the finishing line, contestants in Chumphon province’s variation, held on October 1112, face an extra challenge. In addition to speed, to be declared the winner a member of the crew must clamber up the bow and grasp for a marker flag. Prior to these wacky water-borne races, Buddhist meritmaking rituals are conducted. Later, there will also be contests to draw attention to the narrow vessels, which are hand-crafted from the trunk of a single tree. www.bangkok101.com

Just before sunset each evening between October 4-12 lines of regal, candle-adorned barges will glide down the Mekong River in Nakhon Phanom province, spewing fireworks and eliciting gasps from onlookers as they go. Another end of Buddhist Lent religious rite, the Lai Reua Fai (literally, the fire boat) festival includes colourful street processions and cultural performances. travel

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T R AV E L

upcountry escape

CHIANG RAI CITY Cultural Discovery

ne’s first impression of Chiang Rai is likely to be of a provincial city that looks much like the rest. Certainly this ancient town, with its lowrise modern shophouse architecture, doesn’t live up to its grand billing as the first capital of King Menrai’s Lanna Kingdom and a place on the cusp of 750th anniversary celebrations. “No wonder most people don’t stick around, preferring instead to make a beeline for the jungle treks and mountains of the Golden Triangle”, I thought. I had heard rumours, however, that Chiang Rai is on the cusp of turning from a rural backwater into something more edgy and exciting. And, on a recent trip spent in culture vulture mode, these were proved right – from its café culture to its crafts and neotraditional art scene this city really does have a lot more to offer than merely old temples and tourist bric-a-brac. The first hint of this – Chiang Rai’s artistic spark – came unexpectedly. Not while browsing one of the city’s cutting-edge galleries (though spaces like Angrit Gallery and 9 Art Gallery are both worth checking out) but while making my way to the city’s popular nightmarket of all touristy places. Its form: an ornate gold-leaf Clocktower 28

october 2011

clocktower shimmering in the middle of an otherwise drab roundabout. “Come back at 7, 8, or 9pm,” advised a local walking past. And we did, only to treated to a gaudy five-minute light and sound show during which music played, multi-coloured lights flashed and a mechanical lotus-flower emerged from its bowels. Intrigued by this nightly spectacle, the next morning we drove out to see a modern Buddhist temple called Wat Rong Khun built by the same local artist, Chalermchai Kositpipat. Arriving at its location on the town’s outskirts, we were again dazzled, this time by the sight of a blindingly white wat that appears to have been dusted in icing sugar or frozen in a blizzard. To enter it you cross a bridge over a pair of giant fangs and a sea of tormented, hell-bound hands. And once inside you’re taken aback at the sight of some of the strangest temple murals ever conceived. New

travel

Wat Rong Khun

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Baan Dum Somluck Pantiboon

Wat Rong Khun

York’s smouldering Twin Towers, Doreamon, Batman and Neo from the Matrix are just a few of the modern icons to be spotted in a wild and flaming orange depiction of hell. Riddled with allegorical allusions to Buddhism and Thai culture at large, and still not finished yet, it’s a structure that looks very Disneyland on Ice at first but takes on more significance the more you explore it. So unique is that it’s also led to Chalermchai, one of the leaders of neo-traditional Thai art, being dubbed “the Frank Gehry of Northern Thailand.” That’s a bold claim that’s hard to square on a flying visit. What did become clear at our next stop, Baan Dum, however is that he has stiff competition in the shape of Tawan Duchanee, another famous local visionary who dabbles in different artistic mediums. Located just outside the city, his Black House, as it’s known, has a more tranquil artists retreat-like air, but is similar in its contemporary takes on tradition. There’s a colossal black teak pavilion that looks conventional out front, but walk through it and you find yourself in a tree-studded garden compound dotted with outhouses (some smaller Lanna-style pavilions, others bulbous chedi-like capsules with steel doors) filled with Duchanee’s collections. Buffalo skulls, animal skins, and well-endowed wooden statues abound, offering a glimpse into his unconventional tastes. And if you’re lucky (as we were) you may even spot him working on one of his surrealist paintings, canvases of which hang in the gallery by the carpark and sell for millions of baht a pop. As we discovered, these two artistic storehouses – both must sees – are just the tip of Chiang Rai’s cultural riches. Equally striking, but much more affordable, www.bangkok101.com

Doy Din Dang

avant garde pieces can also be found at Doy Din Dang Pottery. Founded by Japanese-trained ceramicist Somluck Pantiboon, this studio buried in the forest makes for a fascinating stop. Visitors can see potters at the wheel, talk crafts with him and his Japanese wife, and buy the beautiful finished products, with their organic forms and naturally uneven, vibrant glazes made from natural materials like bamboo ash and hay, in the shop. Prices range from B600 for a plate up to tens of thousands for a giant jar. If museums are more your thing, then also head for the Mae Fah Luang Cultural Park. Founded by late Princess Mother in 1977, it was originally set aside for a hilltribe student program but later also became a repository for Lanna artifacts. As well as botanical gardens teeming with rare species and the odd rotting spirit house, there are three buildings to explore. ‘Hor Kaew’ features rotating art exhibitions and teak wood artefacts; ‘Hor Kham Nooy’ is lined with old murals; and the biggest, ‘Hor Kham’, displays some of the finest examples of sacred Lanna-design in existence – ancient temple gables, palanquins candle holders and Buddha images from Lampang, Nan, Phayao and other provinces. Walking around this historical park – our last cultural discovery in a long weekend of them – did two things. Firstly it helped us connect the dots between Chiang Rai’s vibrant neotraditional art scene and its past. Secondly, it reminded us of that old truism: never judge a book by its cover. Max Crosbie-Jones

Mae Fah Luang

travel

october 2011

T R AV E L

n STAY

Le Meridian Chiang Rai Resort

Since the Le Meridien opened last year, Chiang Rai’s other offerings have been playing catch-up. The city’s first and only five-star, it’s a sprawling chic Lanna-style resort with 159 rooms, all spacious, contemporary and, with their subtle Lanna detailing, stylish. But the real headline feature here is the hotel’s location, right on the banks of a quiet green stretch of the Kok River. After rolling up the driveway you’re first wowed by the chic, hi-ceilinged open lobby, followed quickly by the picturesque view at the end of it – of the hotel’s landscaped gardens, man-made lake, tiered infinity pool, and tranquil river backdrop. Also on the grounds are two giant century-old rain trees, the aura of which is only enhanced by the folk tale, about a Burmese princess and Lanna Prince, attached to them (ask and the staff will glady regale you with it). Stand-out features in the suites and rooms include the huge bathrooms and divine hi-ply cotton beds, a Le Meridien signature that makes checking-out on the dot a real chore. They also each come with a terrace or balcony with a view See p.26 for details of the grounds, gardens or lakes, plus a snazzy of Le Meridien designer plastic keycard that gets you free access Chiang Rai’s fly to the Mae Fah Luang Art and Culture Park. and go package in On top of the gorgeous pool, facilities conjunction with include the sumptuous (but pricey) AirAsiaGo. Parvati spa, a gym and much more. You’ll also find two of the best fine-dining venues in town here: chic all-day-diner Latest Recipe, which serves global cuisine, and Favola, a neo-rustic Italian serving Tuscan inspired dishes just yards from the riverbank. 221/2 Moo 20 Kwaewai Road, 053-603-333,www.lemeridien.com/chiangrai 30

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travel

n DISCOVER - 9 Art Gallery 786/11 Moo.3 Phaholyotin Rd, 0-5371-9110, open Tues-Sun 10am-8pm, www.9artgallery.com - Angrit Gallery 99 M2 Pahonyotin, Nanglae, 08-69115331, open 6am-3pm, angkritgallery. tumblr.com - Baan Dum 414 Moo 13 Nang-Lae, 053-705-834, www.thawan-duchanee.com - Doy Din Dang Pottery 49 Moo 6, T. Nang-Lae, 053-705-291, open 8am-5pm (closed Sundays), www.dddpottery.com - Mae Fah Luang Art & Culture Park 313 Moo 7 Baan Pa Ngiew, T. Robwiang, 0-5371-6605-7, www.maefahluang.org -Wat Rong Khun T.Pa-Or, 0-5367-3579, open 6:30am-6pm, www. watrongkhun.org n STAY - Akha River House 423/25 Moo 21 Kohloy Rd (behind the TAT office), 053-715084, www.chiangrairiverhouse.com - The Legend Chiang Rai 124/15 Kohloy Rd, T053-910400, www.thelegend-chiangrai.com n GETTING THERE AirAsia (www.airasia.com) fly daily from Suvarnabhumi airport. www.bangkok101.com

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over the border

PHNOM PENH From Bleak to Chic

he one-hour flight from Bangkok to Phnom Penh can be a sombre pilgrimage for those who’ve seen The Killing Fields. Other mythologies spin Cambodia’s capital into a Wild, Wild East riddled with delinquents and prostitutes, where lawlessness prevails. But the new Phnom Penh is rapidly globalising and increasingly chic, hosting an emerging class of SUVdriving Khmer nouveau riche – while still maintaining that smoky underbelly which gives all good cities soul. One must pay respects to history first. Visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, the school turned secret prison where tens of thousands were stored and tortured by Pol Pot’s ragtag forces. The signs reminding you that laughter isn’t allowed are redundant here; it’s difficult to vocalise anything as you view the galleries of stark black-and-white mug-shots taken as prisoners were ‘processed.’ A 17-km drive out of Phnom Penh will take you to Choeung Ek, the best known of the Killing Fields sites, where a memorial stupa filled with skulls and rags marks the place where more than 8,000 bodies were discovered after the fall of the Khmer Rouge. Finally, back in town, the National Museum affords a pleasant and less gut-wrenching glance back at the ancient Khmer empire. If you can’t visit Angkor, the temple fragments here at least provide a glimpse of its celebrated cultural legacy. To purchase Khmer antiques, Hanuman Antiques and Arts on Street 334 is a prime peruse. If you’re lucky, the knowledgeable owner will be in and can brief you on exactly what that weirdly-shaped stone thing is and when it was made. Once you’ve shaken the pathos, you’ll find there’s a lot of pleasure to be had in Phnom Penh. Spend happy hour at the FCC Bar and Hotel perched on a stool at one of the windows overlooking Sisowath Quay, where you can witness hawkers, monks and families strolling the riverfront. Later, hit the uber-chilled Elsewhere Bar among a clutch of attractive eateries on gentrified Street 278, where the Phnom Penh literati and NGO-types enjoy dips in the pool (if you spend a minimum of $5, though 32

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travel

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they aren’t likely to check) as well as free Wi-Fi. If you really need to experience the thrill of a weapons check, there’s always heavily hyped Heart of Darkness on Street 51. Dangerous or plain dingy? You decide. The rise of art and cuisine culture has propelled Phnom Penh into “Chic City” status. You’ll find both on Street 240 next to the Royal Palace, where a cluster of cafes offers fusion fare and boutiques sell silks and Southeast Asian art. Street 178 near the riverfront is another art nexus and home to fine art galleries such as Asasax Art Gallery and the famous Reyum Gallery. Other venues where you can both ogle art and assuage your appetite include Chinese House on Sisowath Quay and Java Café and Gallery on Sihanouk Boulevard. Nothing embodies Phnom Penh’s new global vibe better than its incredible range of cuisine. Romantically-lit Khmer Surin on Street 57 boasts excellent Thai and Khmer dishes, while Metro Café on the riverfront does Asian-Western tapas in style. Traditional and new Khmer fare with an Angkor-era atmosphere can be found at Malis, about 150 metres south of the Independence Monument. If you’re craving a proper wood brick ovenbaked pizza, look no further than leafy, villa-front garden at Luna d’Autunno, on Street 29. For accommodation, you could splurge on the classical Raffles Hotel Le Royal, the riverside Amanjaya Pancam or the businesstraveller friendly InterContinental Phnom Penh (all $100+US/night). Better value can be had at one of the smaller boutique hotels springing up along the quieter streets, such as Circa 51, an 8-room villa on the corner of Street 51 and Street 222 that embodies the modernist Khmer architectural style that blossomed in the early 60s. The eclectic art-deco inspired rooms are clean and comfortable, the welcome friendly, and there’s a tree-filled oasis of a garden surrounding the saltwater pool. A similarly serene setup can also be found at The Pavilion, on Street 19, with its lovely colonial architecture and free Wi-Fi ($50-$80US/ night). If you like the friendly vibe, trendsetting owner Alexis de Suremain also offers another brace of quality local boutique options: Kabiki on Street 264 is dedicated to families and The Blue Lime, complete with its concrete furniture and solar-powered water heating, can be found on Street 19 just across from the Royal Institute of Fine Arts. He also has a colonial-style 72 room hotel, The Plantation (www.theplantation.asia), slated to open near the Royal Palace and National Museum in November.

n STAY - Amanjaya Pancam 1 Sisowath Quay, Corner St 154 855-23-219-579, www.amanjayapancam-hotel.com - Circa 51 155, Corner of St 51 and St 222, 855-12-585-714, www.circa51.com - The Pavilion 277, St 19 Khan Daun Penh, 855-23222-280, www.thepavilion.asia - Raffles Hotel Le Royal 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, 855-23981-888, www.phnompenh.raffles.com n EAT & DRINK - FCC Bar and Hotel 363 Sisowath Quay, next to the Royal Residence, 855-23-724-014, www.fcccambodia.com - Elsewhere bar 2, St 278, 023-211-348, www. elsewhere2.asia - Khmer Surin 9 St 57, 855-23-363-050 - Luna D’Autumno 6C St 29, 855-23-220-895 - Metro Café Corner of Sisowath Quay & St 148, 855-23-222-275 - Malis 136, Norodom Boulevard, 023221022, www.malis-restaurant.com - Heart of Darkness 38, St 51, 023-222-415 n GETTING THERE Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways and AirAsia all offer daily flights.

Circa 51

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n DISCOVER - Hanuman Antiques & Art 13B, St 334, 855-23-211-916, www.hanumantourism.com - National Museum St 13 (corner St 178), 023-211-753, http://cambodiamuseum.info - Reyum Gallery 47 St 178, 855-23-217-149, www.reyum.org - Asasax Art Gallery 192, St 178, 855-23-217-795, www.asasaxart.com.kh - Java Café and Gallery 56 E1 Sihanouk Blvd, 855-12-894180, www.javaarts.org

travel

october 2011

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exhibitions

Enjoy these highlights from our sister publication the Bangkok Art Map (www.bangkokartmap.com). BAM is a free city map containing insights into Thailand’s burgeoning arts scene

Until Oct 11 Gagasmicism

BKK Arthouse, BACC F3, 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 080-990-6910 | Tue-Sun noon-7.30pm | BTS National Stadium Continuing to present whimsical, idiosyncratic interpretations of the architecture of queer identity in art, for his second solo exhibition in Thailand Pan Pan Narkprasert delivers anew drag queen alter ego, Princess Pangina. Delivered as a performance and multimedia manifested quasi-religion, Pan Pan plays with notions of celebrity worship as deification, as personified by American pop diva Lady Gaga.

Until Oct 15 Bruised

Until Oct 15 Shroud

Thavibu Gallery, Suite 308, Silom Galleria F3, 919/1 Silom Rd, Soi 19 | 02-266-5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | www. thavibu.com l BTS Surasak In the latest series of acrylic paintings by Thaweesak Srithongdee, Lolay, as he is better known, expands his fascination with the human condition to question our existence and ultimate survival. The 41-year-old has previously engineered a spurious race of Adonic, pectoral defined, super-beings that played with perceptions of body image. Typically manifested through paint, print, and animation, in recent years he has extended his slick idealised figures into impressive monumental resin sculptures. In Bruised Lolay visualizes his contusion theme by layering water saturated bled colours atop bare white backdrops. He then enmeshes organic, sinuous imagery that slices beneath the pop-erotic flesh to reveal the organs and innards that control and sustain our existence. A barometer of commercial culture, on the surface Lolay’s art champions a plasticized and emotionally detached veneer. Influenced by the animation and comic book art that captivates Asia’s urban youth, his art holds a certain aesthetic kinship to the Superflat art of Takashi Murakami, Aida Makoto’s anime paintings, and the twisted fantasies of Odani Motohiko. 34

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Art Centre Chulalongkorn University, Centre of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | 02218-2965 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | www.car. chula.ac.th/art/ | BTS Siam One of the region’s few contemporary artists to consistently utilise fabric as a core medium, Jakkai Siributr is considered one of Southeast Asia’s preeminent textile-based artists and is recognised for his imaginatively threaded, often satirical narratives. He has reinvigorated fibre art with a bitingly fresh contemporary countenance that is relevant to a region struggling to balance its historical and religious foundations with the concerns of modern living. arts

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Until Oct 15 Tukata – Post Industrial Venus

Toot Yung Gallery, 19 Prachathipratai Rd I 084-914-5499 I Tue – Sun 2pm-8pm | www.tootyunggallery.com French photographer-curator Claude Estèbe is an expert in Japanese visual culture, which is echoed in the sensibility of his symbolic series of female doll photos. Dressing and staging the plastic models, Estèbe raises questions about femininity, modernity and economic globalisation in Asia.

Until Oct 31 Floating

WTF Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246; .wtfbangkok.com. Wed-Sun 3-10pm. BTS Thonglor As part of their first year anniversary celebrations, What The Festival, WTF hosts a sculptural installation by Sutee Kunavichayanont. On the back of his politically charged exhibition Longing for Siam, Inventing Thailand, Sutee constructs life-size fibreglass sculptures of himself meditating. This is definitely one to see at night.

Until Oct 31 Time to Stop

Gossip Gallery and Teo & Namfah Gallery, Silom Galleria 3F, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19 | 02-637-7878 | Mon-Sat 10am7pm I BTS Surasak Sharing the same exhibition venue, the two galleries come together to host an exhibition of painted works by three artists from Mongolia and Cambodia. Batbataar Khurelbaatar uses the calligraphy of Mongolian script to create historical monuments, while fellow Mongolian Nandin Erdene Budzagd’s collages construct images of women with physical defects. Denis Minh-Kim focuses on Khmer boxing in his chaotic, staggered pugilistic portrayals.

Until Dec 29 Sooksunt’s World:

g23, SWUNIPLEX Fl2-3, Srinakarinwirot University, 114 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-6495000 #5005 | Tue-Sun 11am-6pm | www.g23.swu.ac.th | BTS Asok A peer of National Artist Tawee Ratchaneekorn, Sooksunt Muennirut was an arts student and then teacher during the turbulent political period of the early-to-mid 1970s. Imprisoned for being subversive against the government, Sooksunt’s art is passionate towards social causes and injustices affecting his fellow countrymen. www.bangkok101.com

arts

october 2011

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art 1-on-1

Bangkok is a hotbed of creative energy, be it in the ﬁelds of fashion, music, entertainment, or art. Each month we meet with a talented artist, local or international, currently exhibiting in the capital to discuss their work and views

Krit Ngamsom A natural bricoleur, Krit Ngamsom has previously customised household electrical appliances such as fans, telephones, and lamps into playful kinetic artworks. For his third solo exhibition, Already Mades at Number 1 Gallery, Krit has crafted a whimsical installation featuring a series of mixed-media sculptures that appropriate and re-contextualise significant creations in 20th Century art. Manifested as carnivalesque post-modern parodies, Krit offers us an art amusement park in which the historical significance of pivotal artworks by heavyweights such as Salvador Dali, Marcel Duchamp and Damien Hirst are both celebrated and subverted. What interests you about making your art kinetic? I’m someone that likes threedimensional works, as I like being able to admire and examine at it from every angle. As for my creativeness, I find it’s better to express it via moving mixed-media sculptures. My works look more dynamic and I can say more than if it were static. You’re clearly good with your hands. When and how did you first become interested in building objects? My father is a goldsmith so I guess that’s where it comes from. I used to help him with his gold jewelry. As for being influenced by objects and my passion for building them, I was inspired by 36

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my university instructor. He taught us to think freely, have independent thoughts, forget the old art school clichés and create something fresh. The use of light is also an important part of your work. Can you explain this? The prominence of light in my work is, I think, drawn from memories of my childhood. I used to be mesmerised by the fluorescent lights at temple fairs. Why did you choose to reinterpret these particular iconic artworks? Collaborating with the world’s top artists has always been a dream of mine. Reinterpreting their masterpieces is the closest I’m ever likely to get. arts

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Were you concerned that you would do justice to such iconic works? No, I don’t feel concerned about taking other artists’ works and redoing them. I look at those works as raw materials that I can use to create something fresh, new. That’s why I called the exhibition Already Mades. It’s similar to what I did with my earlier exhibition, when I used fans and other electrical equipment to create my works. For people like yourself, Collaborating with who have never seen the world’s top artists the original artworks has always been firsthand, what do a dream of mine. you think they can Reinterpreting their gain from your new masterpieces is the interpretations? closest I’m ever likely

I believe and hope that those who don’t know to get. the originals will still enjoy the colours, playfulness and festive feel of my exhibition. But naturally those who already know and admire the originals are more likely to get the deeper message.

Are there any obstacles or big challenges when it comes to creating and exhibiting sculpture here in Thailand? No, Thais as a whole are optimistic and open when it comes to perceiving new things. The real obstacle is the lack of big champions of our art scene. Number 1 Gallery is one of the few out there to give me and many other young artists an opportunity. Steven Pettifor

Already Mades by Krit Ngamsom runs until October 29 at Number 1 Gallery WHERE Silom Galleria B1, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19, 02-630-2523, www.number1gallery.com BTS Surasak OPEN Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm |

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arts

october 2011

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performing arts

Our performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll ﬁnd it there, beating to its own rhythm. For more information try www.thaiticketmaster.com or our own website www.bangkok101.com.

Cultural Centres

Patravadi Theatre

Bangkok’s cultural centres bring in topnotch exhibitions and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more.

On Now!

Theatres

AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument| 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue- Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, enjoy hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร คอมเพล็กซ ถ.รางน้ำ

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

october 2011

Bangkok’s 13th International Festival of Dance and Music runs until Oct 16. Flick to p.9 for more. PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising cla sses , ar tis t s’ r esidencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมรวมมิตร arts

ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng |02-6704200 | 10am-6pm close Sun | www.alliancefrancaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรัง่ เศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต

BACC (BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE) (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium |02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am9pm | www.bacc.or.th The upper levels of this eleven-storey Guggenheim-like behemoth boast 3,000sqm for hosting art; the lower ones art-related shops and galleries.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแหงกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

GOETHE INSTITUT (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 |8am-6pm | www. goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ สาทร ซ. 1

JAPAN FOUNDATION (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21| BTS Asok | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชัน่ ชัน้ 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 21

TCDC (THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE) 6F, The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-664-8448 | www.tcdc.or.th | 10:30am9pm close Mon Attend free workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. Facilities include a state-of-theart multimedia library and a textile centre.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปง คอมเพล็กซ สุขมุ วิท 24

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Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, large and small. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom – and look for a branch of Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, or Bookazine EATING THAI FOOD GUIDE Mark Wiens, Eatingthaifood. com, 88pp, B210 Thai cuisine boasts an extraordinary range of tastes and experiences, but the sheer variety on offer can often be overwhelming for foreigners. With limited Thai language skills, the best the average visitor can do is point to a picture, or what the next table over is eating. This primitive method works to a point, but you invariably miss out on the best on offer, often resorting back to what you know best, dishes such as green curry and pad Thai. Fortunately for food lovers, Bangkok-based expatriate Mark Wiens has created a comprehensive English-language guide to Thai food – an e-book appropriately titled the Eating Thai Food Guide. What began as a personal self-education project into the intricacies of Thai cuisine is now paying off as a simplified and concise mini-encyclopedic collection of images, names, prices, and even locations of dishes. Not only a comprehensive guide to individual meals, this e-book also presents famous Bangkok restaurants, Thai food genres, styles of cooking, dining etiquette and food phrases. In short, those with a voracious appetite and searching for the ultimate in gastronomic pleasure should look no further than this smartly produced 88 page guide. So what are you waiting for? Learn to eat like the locals do. Krittana Khurana

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com.

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reading & screening

WALKING TOUR: BANGKOK (2ND EDITION) Byrne Bracken, Marshall Cavendish Editions, 160pp, B480 Forget attempting to traverse down the winding roads, narrow streets, and back alleys of Bangkok successfully – one look at Google Maps is enough to make your head spin. To the rescue comes Irish author G. Byrne Bracken, combining his planning skills (he worked as an architect in Bangkok and Singapore) with hand-drawn black-and-white sketches and maps in this second, revised edition of A Walking Tour: Bangkok. Designed as a series of day-long adventures, each chapter in the book is devoted to a particular neighbourhood or district. The book sticks closely to the author’s remit of traversing Bangkok on foot (though a list of public transportation options to each area wouldn’t go amiss, and the absence of an enlarged, coloured map with detailed cartography does seem a distinct drawback). Nonetheless, the illustrative guide is well-organised with brief notes on the history, architectural styles, cultural etiquettes and mannerisms of Bangkok, plus suggested itineraries that sum up the city’s focal points. In sum, with the Walking Tour series already covering Singapore, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong, there is obviously a market for Bracken’s architectural guides – after all, it does exactly what it says on the tin. Krittana Khurana

STORIES FROM THE NORTH (RUANG LAO JAK MUANG NEA) Uruphong Raksasad | 2005 | 4€ at www.docalliancefilms.com An old man, his dog, his gun, a house on stilts – the opening of this full-length documentary is wondrous, wordless iconography. Sun-squinting hardiness, the creeping unease with modern change, the transcendent solitude of life in accord with Nature – the vignette comes across as almost Emersonian. Unfortunately, Raksasad mars the moment with lazy scoring when he lets fly with assy, brassy blasts of Aaron Copland near the end of his overture. But tendency to cut the soundtrack cheese aside, Raksasad offers a visually mythic style of storytelling still grounded in local rhythms. Stories underscores the transience of a fading rural community by unfurling scenes that feel timeless – a bicycle band of elders, serene cameos of water buffaloes, the harvest. Aside from the occasional symphonic slip-up or syrup-slow moment, Stories is a beautiful debut that strikes a balance between gentle surrealism and sadness, ode and autumnal elegy. arts

october 2011

P H OTO F E AT U R E

Liang Ewe Remembering Phuketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Portrait Master

This year we’ve proudly brought you previews from each installment of Kathmandu Photo Gallery’s ‘Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers’ project: a series of mini-retrospectives in which the work of artists hitherto ignored by Thai photographic history is viewed afresh through modern eyes. For our third preview, this month we journey back in our time machine to the world of Liang Ewe, Phuket’s venerable old photography studio. Opened for business in 1933 by Aree Khorchareon (Chinese name ‘Khor Eng Lee’), this studio was the favourite of the island’s elite until his death in 1992. The reason? Though entirely self-taught, Aree Khorchareon was a master when it came to directing his sitters and technical proficiency – his selection of lenses, camera angles and beautiful lighting. Now, for the first time, the vast treasure trove of glass and acetate film negatives he left behind is ready for public viewing. Invaluable social and cultural snapshots, these portraits of Phuket inhabitants span the pivotal transition in the island’s history, from the end of the tin-mining gold rush to the early beginnings of the tourist boom. Liang Ewe runs 1 October – 27 November at Kathmandu Photo Gallery Where 87 Soi Pan, Silom Road, 02-234-6700, www.kathmandu-bkk.com Open Tues-Sun 11am-7pm BTS Surasak

P H OTO F E AT U R E

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dining in bangkok

ood is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way that Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared with everyone at the table; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

october 2011

The Andaman

A taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round

food & drink

the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites. If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a nonstop gastronomical journey.

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Every month we scour the city to find Bangkok's best restaurant promotions, so that you never have to miss out on a great dining experience; whether it be a candlelight dinner by the Chao Phraya river, brunch in a five-star setting, or a once-in-a-lifetime Michelin quality meal

meal deals

October 9-31 Oktoberfest Patummat Restaurant, Siam City Hotel, 02-247-0123, ext. 1810; www.siamhotels.com Strap on your lederhosen and get ready to party German-style as the Oktoberfest comes to town. To celebrate, Siam City Hotel’s Patummat Restaurant is offering two set menus featuring roasted pork knuckle, sauerkraut, pickled rollmops and more Bavarian classics. Weekdays: B807++ for lunch (11:30am-2:30pm); B977++ for dinner (6pm-10:30pm). Weekends: B977++ for brunch (11am3pm) and dinner (6pm-10:30pm).

Throughout October Chinese Family Dishes Lok Wah Hin, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6, 02-209-8888; www.novotelbkk.com Throughout October at Lok Wah Hin you can enjoy home-style Chinese cuisine: Kao Yok Style braised Chinese bacon, braised pork spare ribs with Shanghai sauce on hot plate, shredded pork, crispy pork baked with deep fried tofu in clay pot and steamed tofu stuffed with shrimp paste. Plus, don’t forget Chef Chan’s popular signature: BBQ Peking duck with its tender marinated meat and crispy skin for only B980++.

Throughout October Chocolate Afternoon Tea Set Glen Bar, Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Rangnam Road,Thanon Phayathai, 02 680 9999; www. pullmanbangkokkingpower.com Give in to your chocaholic cravings this month with a chocolate afternoon tea set at the Pullman Bangkok King Power hotel. Created by Chef Cyllie Vero, it includes delights such as Darjeeling tea and chocolate fondant, white chocolate and lemon tea crème brule’, and a chocolate fountain. The price for the tea set, available from 2-5pm daily, is B350 net per person and includes free WiFi.

Throughout October Sweet treats at da Vinci Rembrandt Hotel & Towers, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100; http:// rembrandtbkk.com/ The Rembrandt Hotel’s Italian restaurant da Vinci, up on the fourth floor, is laying on a sweet deal throughout October. Order any main course then check in on foursquare, show it to any staff member and you’ll receive one complimentary dessert of your choice. Only one check in per person is permitted. You can reserve a table by phone or via Facebook on Rembrandtbkk’s page. Just don’t forget to bring your phone.

Throughout October New Thai Cuisine to Savour Basil, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 02649-8366, dining.sgs@luxurycollection. com; www.eatdrinkandmore.com/bangkok The Sheraton Grande's Thai restaurant Basil has created a set menu featuring tasty appetisers like deep-fried crab spring rolls and a spicy okra salad with shredded chicken and prawns. A soup of mildly spiced prawns and star gooseberry with Thai herbs is followed by main dishes like stir-fried snow fish in mild yellow curry, or stir-fried ivy gourd with minced pork. Priced at B1,250 it includes wine from PB Valley Winery.

Throughout October World Famous Wagyu Maduzi Restaurant by Yuya, 02-6156400, reservation@maduzihotel.com; www.maduzihotel.com Maduzi Hotel’s Executive Chef Yuya Okuda is lining up the riches of the sea along with world famous Wagyu beef to create a perfectly balanced three-course meal. The master French chef from Japan will start guests off with delicious steamed Alaskan king crab and juicy fresh oysters before serving the main course of grilled Wagyu beef with black truffle sauce. This three-course Wagyu dinner is priced at B990 net per person.

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food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

street eats

restaurant

SAWANG

review

Baa-mee noodles are one of those ubiquitous Bangkok dishes you can find on most streets. Rather than taking you to an ordinary rendition of these thin yellow egg noodles, this month we’ve decided to introduce you to one of the champs of Bangkok’s baamee noodle world – Sawang. Step out from MRT Hua Lumphong station’s Exit 4, look for the fluorescent green light and you’ve pretty much arrived at baamee (egg noodle) heaven. Originally located on Sawang Road near Rama IV, where the shop borrows its name from, Sawang has resettled twice in the Hua Lumphong area during its 50 years in the soupslurping business. Running the show are two generations of the Satirapanyakul – founding father Papa Chan and his daughter Khun Aim-Orn, the family member entrusted with Sawang’s secret recipe. To warm up begin with a plate of juicy kanom-jeeb, pleated pork and shrimp dumplings known as shumai in mainland China (B20-40). As for bowls of baamee – each of which are available haeng (dry) or nam (with broth) – the variation to try, if you can afford it, is the famous red crab claw, baamee puu. The cost of this rare and prohibitively pricey (in local street food terms) dish is between B150-300 depending on the size. Or if you’re allergic to the steep price or the crab claw itself, other options include the giow goong (shrimp wonton soup) and bammee moo daeng (noodle with barbecued red pork), both B50-100. If you’re in the area, pop by to taste what many locals consider the definitive baamee. And if you’re thinking of making a trip especially call ahead – true perfectionists, the owners of Sawang don’t open at all if they can’t find a fresh pork bone for their divine soup stock. Amornsri Tresarannukul

WHERE 336/3-4 Rama 4 Rd (near MRT Hua Lumphong Exit 4); 02-236-1772, 081-422-1134 OPEN Daily 5pm-11pm (closed Mondays and Buddhist Holy days) PRICE B50-300

รานสวางบะหมี่ปู ถ.พระราม 4 (ใกล รร.บางกอก เซ็นเตอร)

october 2011

food & drink

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ealikte

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city's next delectable morsel

SAWASDEE PADTHAI Three giant woks, coloured wall tiles, seen-betterdays signage, and an oil coated floor – these are the time-honoured components at ‘Sawasdee’, a pad thai and hoy tod (deep-fried mussel omelet) holein-the-wall located opposite Ratchawat Market. Despite being quieter these days due to many offices moving away from the neighbourhood, the Ratchawat area, near Dusit, is still a goldmine of delicious local food, and Sawasdee still one of the main forces driving it. It’s been here, on its little spot just across from the market, for more than 50 years. Both the pad thai, with its sweet, salty and sour flavour and stringy noodles, and the hoy thod are absolute must tries. A good way to pass the time while you wait is to watch the cook making them in one of the aforementioned giant woks, each one of which has a different job (one is used solely to fry up pad thai; one krob krob, or crispy, hoy tod; another nim nim, or soft, hoy thod). Besides this famous duo, I also recommend you sample the khanom pakkad or turnip cake. Sawasdee’s flavourful version is different to the norm – similar to fried black sauce noodles, or pad si-iew, here they cook it with the vegetable pak kana or kale. Sawasdee is at 955/11 Nakhorn Chaisri Road (opposite Ratchawat Fresh Market and Bangkok Bank). Open daily from 9am-4:30 pm. www.bangkok101.com

food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

restaurants

restaurant

review

DIN TAI FUNG Is there another city on earth as good at the food-fad? From Rotiboy to Mos Burger and last year’s Krispy Kreme, Bangkok has proven itself without rival when it comes to insanely long queues of fanatical people all scrambling to sample the latest imported food chain to arrive here. While others have faded into obscurity, or disappeared altogether (Rotiboy), our tastes buds are telling us that the latest, Taipeibased dim sum outfit Din Tai Fung, is here to stay. From a distance it isn’t much to look at – an expansive open-plan diner, tucked away in the far left corner of CentralWorld’s 7th Floor and done out in a rather dated looking blend of shiny speckled grey marble and wood. As you get closer, though, and the glassed-in open kitchen comes into view things get more interesting. Thick columns of steam, resembling geysers sprung from the earth, billow upwards from vents over towering stacks of wooden trays. And a dozen or more worker bees in white overalls, masks and hats can be seen busy stuffing and folding. The thing they’re all preparing in this, the laboratorylike nerve centre of Din Tai Fung (a feature common to all their branches), are steamed pork dumplings, or xiao long bao. Unmistakably fresh and hygienically made, the plump, intricately folded bundles arrive in sets of 6 or 10 pieces, sagging under the weight of their soup and fillings. 50

october 2011

WHERE 7th Floor, CentralWorld, Rajdamri Road; 02-646-1282; www.dintaifung.com.tw BTS Chidlom OPEN 10am-10pm PRICE $

And how do they taste? Pretty damn good, it has to be said. To eat them properly you pick one up with your chopsticks, dip in soy sauce and vinegar, place on spoon, prick hole in it, lay a sliver of ginger on top, and sluuuurp. Scarf only a few of these hot, delicate, broth-ﬁlled mouthfuls – the crack cocaine of steamed dim sum – and it becomes obvious why Din Tai Fung has gained Asiawide adulation and even a Michelin star (for its Hong Kong branch) since opening in Taipei in 1953. They also explain the queues at this, Thailand’s ﬁrst branch, every lunch and dinner time and especially on weekends. Arrive at these times and you’ll be handed a ticket by one of the courteous staff, many of whom have been brought in from Din Tai Fung’s other branches. As your number approaches you’ll also be handed a menu so you can tick off what you want while you wait. Apart from the dumplings, they also do soups, noodle soups, stir-fry greens and sides. We ordered some stir-fried dou miao (pea shoots) with garlic, a cleansing chicken soup, black sesame steamed buns, and one of a few dishes solely for the Thai market, green chilies stuffed with marinated minced meat, all of which were tasty enough… but nowhere near as addictive as those dreamy xiao long bao. Max Crosbie-Jones

food & drink

ดิน ไท ฟง เซ็นทรัลเวิลด

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BANGKOK BURGER CO.

restaurant

review

Bangkok's best is a big boast to make. With its large number of visiting tourists and resident expatriates, innumerable restaurants here tout their burger as the best in town. Stepping into this competitive arena comes the latest contender: Bangkok Burger Co. The ﬁrst thing you notice is the restaurant’s smart logo, a simple yet stylish black, white and yellow design featuring the name stamped over a map of Thailand. It’s one of those memorable names that it’s hard to believe no-one else came up with before. The logo, concept, and design, are the brainchild of the British managing director and founder of the Bangkok Burger Co., Jim Moroney, who has previously achieved notable success in the United Kingdom with The Living Room chain of restaurants. Despite the apparent competition here, he saw a niche in the market for a place that only served burgers, and was geared towards a Thai, rather than expatriate market. In a recent interview, he said, “we are targeting Thais with our menu, catering to Thai tastes and focusing on our core customer base – Thais.” What this means in short is strategies such as making small size burgers (regular 100 grams, large 170 grams) to cater to local appetites; and employing Thai management to run the place on a day-to-day basis, so that the Bangkok Burger Co. isn't seen as a foreigner-run restaurant. Indeed, on a recent visit we saw a mixed crowd of Thais, Westerners, and Japanese – to whom the imperious Emperor (burger cooked in teriyaki sauce with sautéed onions, mushrooms and wasabi mayonnaise) is apparently dedicated. Ordering from your menu (also your place mat), you ﬁrst choose your burger size (regular or large), select beef or pork, and then decide between 15 intriguing

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WHERE Unit 103, G/F, Opus Building, 139 Thong Lor Soi 10, 02-715-9407; www.bangkokburgercompany.com. OPEN Daily 11am-11pm PRICE $$

burgers, served with coleslaw, chips or house salad – add another B30 if you want to switch to curly fries (you do). Notable burgers on the menu include the Bacon Cheese (triple crispy bacon, cheddar and burger cheeses, B230 regular, B295 large), and the Panang (burger simmered in panang curry sauce and Thai vegetables, B230-295), with the sides on offer including salt and pepper calamari (B145); and hot Buffalo wings with blue cheese (B145). It's all very good – but Bangkok's best burger? You be the judge of that.Simon Ostheimer

food & drink

แบงคอก เบอรเกอร คอมปานี ทองหลอ ซ.10

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

restaurants

restaurant

PIZZAZO review WHERE 188 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Phrom Phong, 02-663-8500; pizzazobistro.com OPEN Tue-Fri 11.30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm, closed Mon PRICE $$

Casual French-Italian dining may seem like a contradiction, but this is exactly what Soi 16 restaurant Pizzazo promises, served up in a modest yet comfortable, charming house setting. The original concept behind Pizzazo was to create a takeaway pizzeria business delivering traditional Napoli-style pizzas – as opposed to the fast-food American versions – to hungry Bangkokians. However, when its owner Khun Thanit came across a neglected empty white house on a plot in Sukhumvit Soi 16 earlier this year, he set about transforming the site into a French-Italian bistro. After a mere two months hard work, Pizzazo the restaurant emerged. And so it was on a recent balmy Bangkok evening that we found ourselves seated outdoors under large white umbrellas, awaiting the French-Italian creations of Head Chef Stefano. We began proceedings with a bright bruschetta alle verdure (B150). No simple tomato salsa on bread this, rather a fresh and flavourful vegetable medley of tomato and basil, grilled artichoke and vegetables topped with mozzarella. As for pizzas, order the Mediterranea (B440) if you want to have it all: tomato sauce, mozzarella, premium parma ham, rocket salad, cherry tomatoes, parmesan, black olives, basil, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. Combine this with an order of tiger prawns (served with crunchy eggplant, anchovy brandade, and mesclun salad with balsamic caramel and garlic chips, B340), and then satisfy those sweet cravings with the crispy chocolate and almond flavoured cake (B140), a delicious contrast of soft mousse and vanilla ice-cream (on the side) with a crisp, biscuit-like base. In sum, an excellent array of well-balanced dishes, combining contrasts in flavour, texture and temperature, have brought plenty of pizzazz to a quiet part of Soi 16. Krittana Khurana

พิซซาโซ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ.16

october 2011

food & drink

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restaurant

SEVEN SPOONS

review

Apricot squash couscous. Pumpkin tarragon lasagne. Barley, chickpea and feta stuffed eggplant. Churning out dishes that sound yum, healthy and exotic – and taste it too – it’s not hard to see why mostly organic wholefood delivery company Birds in a Row has been a hit among the city’s home-delivery aficionados, especially the vegetarians among them. Now, with the opening of Seven Spoons, you can tuck into the same lovingly homemade international and Mediterranean influenced meals while sat in a stylish Soulfood Mahanakornesque shophouse as opposed to your living room. A couple of things to bear in mind before you hop in a taxi with all your bohemian friends. Tucked away on a parade of old shophouses in the Ratchadamnoen area, Seven Spoons is quite hard to find. And it’s tiny – really tiny, with only two tables big enough for three and one table big enough for four, five at a push. Call ahead (friendly Canadian co-owner Regan Suzuki recommends it, as they’ve had to turn people away in the past) and print out a map (or use google maps on your smartphone, as we did) though and we’re positive you won’t regret it. The tone of this restored Chinese shophouse lined with golden teak slats and warmed by lamps is relaxed yet elegant. And the food unlike anything else you’ll find in town. Made using as much local and organic produce as they can source, the current 28-item ‘summer’ menu opens with starters like the moreish chardonnay pate served with wholemeat crispbread from local bread delivery company, Bangkok Breadboys (B180). Another winner were the sweet and sharp notes of the Halloumi cheese on tomato slices and topped with olives and caramelised almonds (b160). Seven Spoon’s forte – adventurous combos of a few unprocessed ingredients into something uncomplicated yet exciting – is even more apparent with mains courses like pumpkin pine nut tortellini with sage butter (a delicate www.bangkok101.com

treat; B220) and white snapper with spiced chickpeas in butter ginger sauce (well plated, perfectly fried; B280). Almost surprising as the fact that the chef behind this wholefood goodness, Somkiat ‘Joke’ Pairojmahakij, is almost entirely self-taught are the prices. Order in four dishes and you should still have change from B1,000. That leaves you with more pocket money to spend, say, knocking back cocktails on nearby Khao San Road, a natural next port of call. Better still, you could use it to sample Seven Spoon’s own spirited batch of tipples, all shaken and stirred by the well-spoken bartender Khun Bee, who learnt his craft at Khao San’s Sri Poom bar and has honed it here by experimenting with local ingredients. A trio of signatures includes the ‘Silver Spoon’ (B180): a refreshing short glass of Martini Bianco, spiced run, lime and galangal. And if that doesn’t take your fancy, he’s sure to have a recommendation or two for you. Serving homey wholefood similar to the kind served in boho healthfood shops across the western world, only without the offputting reek of patchouli and hard-line vegetarianism, this natty neighbourhood gastrobar is well worth hunting down. Max Crosbie-Jones

เซเวน สพูนส ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ

WHERE 211 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of Lan Luang and Chakkrapatipong Rd); 084-539-1819 or 02-628-4588; http://sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com OPEN Tue-Fri 11.30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm, closed Mon PRICE $

food & drink

october 2011

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restaurants DID YOU KNOW?

Meat’s BANGKOK Out

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL Saunter down any food-seller street on the ﬁrst few days of this month and you’ll notice strings of yellow bunting dangling across many a stall and restaurant front, cheerful signs that the annual tetsakan kin jay (vegetarian festival) has rolled into town. With centuries-old Taoist Chinese origins down in Phuket, this nine day event spanning until Oct 5 reaches its climax on the southern island’s streets, with participants partaking in ritual acts of self-ﬂagellation (and that's putting it mildly, we don’t want to put you off your dinner). But here in Bangkok, thankfully for the faint-hearted these grotesque marches are absent, with many followers merely opting to cut meat out of their diets. Anyone, even the atheists among you, can join them. Lots of Thais do just that, as the festival’s aims of achieving holistic wellness chime with many Buddhists. For the duration it’s not hard to spot them, bypassing their favourite crispy pork belly or guay jup nam sai (offal in peppery broth) stall in search for something tofu or mock

october 2011

Nine not just a lucky number in Chinese but also for Thais? The Thai word for number 9 (kao) is a translation/ sign for progress or improvement.

meat-based. Even that Thai kitchen staple, ﬁsh sauce, gets swapped for soy sauce and mushroom-based equivalents. Though city-wide, the best place to get your teeth into tetsakan kin jay is Chinatown. As well as feasting on the myriad meat-free dishes prepared and sold at yellow-ﬂagged carts and shops stationed all over – from Charoen Krung road to Talad Noi and Yaowarat Road itself – here you’ll be able to witness the vibrant rituals associated with the practice of jay, including the festival opening, when white-clad devotees raise a lantern pole, and place candles around each of the Nine Emperor Gods. Head over to Chinese temples such as Lengnoeiyi on Charoen Krung Road, or the Tai Hong Kong shrine at the Sam Yan intersection to catch these. You’ll also be to take in live Chinese opera performances; many of the stages scattered around will blare well into the night. Krittana Khurana

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Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

Tida Esarn

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at this sleek glass and steel hotel include the Wine Pub –the busiest hotel wine bar in town, thanks to its competitive daily food and wine deals. Back on the street, Mobile Steak is one of the sois newer additions, serving Japanese steaks and Thai staples in an air-con-chilled space, while Madam Ong is a surprisingly decent Vietnamese attached to the VP Tower serviced apartment. Further down, on a corner before the park, sits Rangnam’s best cosmopolitan eatery B-Resto. Pleasant evenings, over wood-fire pizzas and wines, can be had at this glass-panelled modern Thai/Italian. Walking past the park and a dodgy drive-in motel brings you to a parade that includes @Bangkok and Water Bar. The latter are loud, open-fronted Thai bars where locals sit at wooden

Isaan Rot Det

stools, nursing glasses of whiskee soda while they ogle live sports and/or the sexy beer pretties (waitresses). Both serve passable Thai food, but we prefer Raintree Music Pub. Beloved by homesick northeastern folk, this plankwood old-timer serves tasty klub klaem (beer snacks) and is one of only a few places left in town where wispybearded musicians still strum sociopolitical folk songs, or pleng peua chiwit. Three restaurants do a brisk trade at Soi Rangnam’s far end: Baan Ajaan is a Thai restaurant with a daily chalkboard clearly designed to lure in foreigners; Mezzanine an al fresco café restaurant; and Kuang Seafood is, as the name and watertanks teeming with disgruntled looking live lobsters suggest, a good place to chow fresh sea creatures.

g On dam Ma

ark

Ma zz Ku anine Sea ang foo d

Wa t Baa er Bar nA jaan

ap P Pub tre e Rai n

Wi ne Pub

Pul lm

Itto Sho kod @B u ang kok

Soi Ran gna g Po m wer

Kin

San tip

B-R est o

Mo bile Ste ak

Tid a Ma Esar l Isaa lika n nR ot De t

Sea Baa sonin nB g an

aya

ai R

BTS Victory Monument

his leafy, fast gentrifying soi is one long eating opportunity. From freewheeling streetfood carts to rough-and-ready Isaan joints and expat-orientated international restaurants, it’s a great place to enjoy an affordable culinary pick-and-mix. And easily accessed: just hop off the Skytrain at BTS Victory Monument, take the exit that leads into the Century Mall complex, head down the escalator and pop through the left exit. Each evening the top of Soi Rangnam hums with street food vendors (including, by 7/11, one of the best moo ping, grilled pork, stalls in town); but the first big-hitter is Tida Esarn. Its Isaan staples are popular with expats, mainly because of its amiable woodplank décor and Englishlanguage menu. However, frankly the flavours here are outclassed by those at Isaan Rot Det, a few doors down. In our opinion, this plain Jane serves the most unadulterated Isaan food on Rangnam. And many Thais agree with us – it’s often full. Sandwiched between them is yellow-wooded Mallika, a good place to sample tonguescouringly-hot Southern Thai dishes. On the other side of the road to this trio is Seasoning, a good looker that serves disappointing Western food, and Baan Ban, a cute little shophouse cafe in white. Dwarfing it is the King Power complex next door: a monolithic dutyfree complex with a luxury hotel, the Pullman, round the back. F&B venues

Raintree Pub

Ratchaprarop Rd.

NEIGHBOURHOOD NOSH: SOI RANGNAM

food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

Grand Pearl

river cruises A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 per person, depending on how well you dine, and last an average of three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner, though this should be confirmed ahead of time. It’s also wise to make advance reservations.

featured

cruise MANOHRA CRUISES Manohra Cruises runs daily dinner (and sunset cocktail) cruises on two converted antique rice barges. To ensure all guests receive the personal touch, seating is limited to 40 only; with full waiter service and two set menus to choose from, either nine (Gold: B,1990++ per person), or seven (Silver: B1,400++) courses. The menus (which alternate to give repeat diners variety) are designed to provide a taste of elegant traditional Thai fare, including dishes such as the appetiser of mieng kham, where you fill edible chapu leaves with a selection of roasted coconut, shallots, lime, ginger, peanuts, shrimp and chilli. There’s also salmon pad samunprai – seared salmon fillet with mixed Thai herbs – and gaeng kiew ped yang – green curry roasted duck. Dinner is accompanied by your selection of drink (not included in the price). Journeys begin at 7:30pm nightly from the Manohra pier at the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa Hotel, which is easily reached via the hotel’s free shuttle boat from the public pier (and BTS station) at Saphan Taksin. Diners are also presented with a souvenir booklet that contains a map and detailed information on the sights along the way. While the most the prominent ones are pointed out to you, you’re mostly left alone to enjoy the sumptuous cuisine, stunning surroundings and good company. If only all Bangkok dinner cruises were like this. 56

october 2011

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Blue Elephant

THAI BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | BTS Surasak | www.blueelephant.com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$ Been to other Blue Elephants before? Here the setting alone – a striking century old mansion – sets this branch apart. A few step from the Surasak BTS station, the classy interior combines colonial décor, wicker chairs and tones of fresh flowers into an ideal spot for romantic tête-à-têtes. While popular with tourists, the number of satisfied Thai customers who dine here can only be a good sign. Many dishes have been globalised, Western ingredients transforming them into something extraordinary. Foie gras with tamarind sauce, scallops mangosteen salad and the massaman lamb are must-tries. Likewise more traditional dishes, many of which – like the tom jew (herbal beef soup) – use recipes and ingredients from the Royal Palace. Aspiring chefs

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should consider their on-site cooking school.

บลูอีเลเฟน ถ.สาทรใต

CHAI KARR (mapC4) 312/3 Silom Road (opposite Holiday Inn Silom) | 02-233-2549 |11:30am-9pm, closed Sun | $ Silom Road’s Chaii Karr is keeping the folksy-diner dream alive. On entering the tiny and lived-in shophouse interior – with its teak-panelling, wicker chairs, old clocks, herb jars and vintage Pepsi signs – you’re time-warped to a Bangkok where sleek surfaces and designer furniture never did catch on.

food & drink

restaurants

A slim band of regulars, office workers and passersby come here to revel in its timewarp nostalgia while they enjoy dishes off an unpretentious menu of cheap and tasty, if unremarkable, Thai food. Well worth a visit when you’re in the vicinity, especially at lunchtimes when a rice-curry-soup combo goes for B55-70, it includes dishes like the very healthy gaeng leang soup, freshly ground coffee and a homemade coconut ice cream featuring a rich flavour and slivers of fresh jackfruit. Dinner times are quiet, making it a cosy escape from traffic snarled Silom.

ชายคา ตรงขาม รร.ฮอลิเดย อินน สีลม

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

restaurants

Just One

JUST ONE (map C4) 58 Soi Ngam Duplee (Sathorn Soi 1), Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumpini | 02-679-8033 | 10am-11pm | $ Intrepid eaters in Thailand are frequently face with the challenging choice between décor and dining – either a trophy restaurant with stunning looks but mediocre food, or a repast fit for the gods served up in a decidedly less-than-divine space. Luckily, Just One isn’t looking to just coast on its atmosphere. The perfect romantic restaurant for a special visitor, Just One is set in what looks like an enchanted garden – a giant, gnarled tree towering over outdoor tables, and an airy, almost greenhouse-like indoor space. Food is polite Thai – fresh, with a low chilli factor for tender tongues. With its sensitive spicing, wide-ranging menu, and dreamy look, Just One might be too timid for food crusaders, but is perfect for out-of-towners who may have touchy palates, or those who seek cuisine that suits a serene atmosphere.

Taksura attracts a mixed crowd: office workers, high-school students, university undergraduates and foreign travellers all flock here to enjoy reasonably-priced food in a throwback setting. Opt to sit inside the old wooden house (seats 20) or on the outdoor terrace, which has space for 10 or so customers. The menu is straightforward, clearly divided into gin kum kum (starters), ao nuk nuk (mains), and lastly – and this probably explains the universal attraction –

‘Drink ‘til Drop’. Indeed, the entire food menu merely serves as a prelude to the alcoholic accompaniment, no surprise when you realise that in Thai ‘tak’ means ladle and ‘sura’ is liquor. Still, there are a number of must-try dishes, including pla shon boran (‘serpent head’ fish mixed with Thai herbs), kor moo yang (fried marinated pork) and yum tua ploo (fresh wing bean salad served with hard-boiled egg). All use fresh ingredients and come in perfect sharing sized portions. With its relaxed vibe and fun-seeking crowd, this is the place to head to for an evening of dinner and drinks. Come before 7pm to reserve a table on Friday and Saturday nights when the live acoustic band performs and the crowd sings along. It’s that type of place.

ตักสุรา สาขาสะพานหัวชาง ถ.พญาไท

INTERNATIONAL BOURBON STREET (map D4) 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Washington Square | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-2590328~9 | www.bourbonstbkk.com | 7am-1am Slated to move to new premises at the end of this year, Bourbon Street shares a colourful, wrong-side-of-the-tracks feel with New Orleans legendary, anything-goes party strip. Proprietor

จัสวัน ซ.งามดูพลี

TAKSURA (map C3) 334/1 Soi Thammasaroj, Saphan Chalerm Lar 56, Phayathai Road | BTS Ratchathewi | 02-215-8870; www.taksura.com | 5pm-1am 58

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Taksura

food & drink

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and Louisiana native Doung Harrison has been running the downstairs restaurant and upstairs guesthouse located amid the seedy hole-in-thewall bars and massage parlours of Sukhumvit Soi 22’s Washington Square for over 20 years. During that time, while others fiddle with fusion or go nouveau upscale, he’s imported the rustic heart and seasoned soul of Cajun cuisine. Pick from a tasty selection of rich, hearty, peppery fare designed to override a dieter’s healthy regime. To this end, Bourbon Street offers a respectable array of classic, arteryclogging all-day breakfasts, guaranteed to nurse you back to the land of the living when jetlagged or experiencing a morning-after moment. Staples like Pancakes, French Toast and Eggs Benedict (with either Canadian bacon, smoked salmon or crab doused in a rich, gravy-like homemade hollandaise) are readily available. You can up the steaks with something a bit different, like “S.O.S” – creamed beef on toast, topped with a fried egg. Or really take the cake by plumping for the four-egg special Bourbon Street breakfast.

เบอรบอน สตรีท สุขุมวิท ซ.22

GAI & JOEL 99/11-12 Langsuan Balcony Bldg, Soi Langsuan | 02-684-5944 | Tues-Sun 11am-11pm | $$$ A classy neighbourhood restaurant

Gai & Joel

with an adventurous, yet in many ways traditional, menu. The two chefs, recently married couple Gai and Joel Wilkinson, are pitching “global flavours” and do everything wherever possible in-house, including pasta, bread and ice cream making, and use flavours like lavender, liquorice and herbal teas in items like sun dried tomatoes, aromatic duck and marinated tuna. The dishes are presented with modern elegance, yet retain an earthiness that steers away from fusion affectation. A straight Mediterranean seafood casserole sits on the menu alongside Moroccan lamb rack and forest mushroom soup with truffle nutmeg foam. There’s a rustic feel to risotto with porcini and foie gras – oily, the rice with bite but not undercooked, and pieces of chestnut to add texture – and the good quality Aussie tenderloin is well seared and simply served with sauted herbed vegetables. Downstairs is a

square room with a small bar and large windows that look out to busy Langsuan. Tables are dressed in black with red and yellow accessories that set off the smart white tableware.

ไก แอนด โจแอ็ล ซอยหลังสวน

FRENCH AUBERGINE (map C4) 71/1 Soi Sala Daeng 1/1 | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-234-2226 | Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 6pm-10pm | $$ Poised on a quiet sub-soi between casual Saladaeng and the elegant hotels of Sathorn, Aubergine splits the difference and comes out cozy and classy. A beautifully preserved home with modern touches – warm yellow walls, a curvaceous bar, generous outdoor seating, and chic private rooms. The food is traditional, but not stodgy – Aubergine boasts tantalizing French and Italian. The Lobster bisque

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food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K is light and tastes like pure concentrate of the sea – potent, rich, but playing on the tongue. Handmande pastas provide such excellent counterpoints to fresh sauces – a robust fish ragout cut with the nutty assertiveness of rocket, for example. Meat entrées are conceived and executed with similar care. The lamb rack is one standout – tender, smoky, and accompanied by a meltingly rich gratin dauphinois and a delectable ratatouille. A fine wine list and sophisticated, not-too-sweet desserts round out the offerings at Aubergine, where haute can be homey after all.

โอเบอรจีน ซ.ศาลาแดง 1/1

ITALIAN FUZIO 99/99 Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6999 | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | $$$ Concealed lights cast a blue haze over the aptly named Fuzio, a design-bycommittee mash of panelled Georgian study walls, industrial ceiling pipes, glass chandeliers, and fez-like lampshades with tassels from a grandpappy dressing gown. It’s a strangely fussy yet bare room, filled with pleasing individual elements that jar when they are lumped together. Unfortunately, the food is fuzio, too. Our opening dish of avocado, citrus orange, smoked salmon and almond had freshly crisp

salad leaves and tasty single ingredients, but orange and avocado is really not a happy marriage. The spaghetti with mud crab in garlic olive oil, chilli, parsley and rocket, likewise, had good flavour and a spicy kick, but the spaghetti was way too dry. And continuously picking crab shell from your mouth is just annoying. Diners in a restaurant pitched at this level deserve more care. For the main course – aged Australian Black Angus Beef wrapped with Italian speck and served with goose liver in porcini mushroom sauce – we weren’t asked how we wanted our beef cooked. Not a complete refuzio, then, but definitely a work in progress.

ฟูซิโอ อาคารมินิสแควร ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย)

GIANNI’S (map C3) 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploen Chit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-252-1619 | 12pm-2:15pm, 6pm-10pm | $$$ In an area filled with restaurants, spas and art galleries, this cozy place stands out thanks to its consistency – in faultless food, perfect service and never-vanishing popularity. Gianni’s was one of the first “real” Italians in town and has set off that avalanche of Italian restaurants that hasn’t stopped yet. But over the years, Chef Gianni has managed to keep his regular guests.

Aubergine

october 2011

food & drink

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Fuzio

They might venture out to fleetingly check some brash newcomer but always return. The big, warmly lit room is bursting with diners night after night (reservations are necessary on any given evening) digging in with gusto. Many regulars don’t bother with the menu but order daily changing specials. Though the menu doesn’t bear surprises, it offers thoroughly composed, impeccable creations (the wine list features great matches). This place is the antithesis of the hipsterdom lurking everywhere in Bangkok.

เจียนนี่ส ซ.ตนสน ถ.เพลินจิต

JAPANESE IZA 115 Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor) | 02-712-7836 | www.facebook. com/izabkk | BTS Thong Lor | 11am-3pm, 6pm-midnight | $$ Like the menu, Iza’s décor is best described as international Japanese, the kind of place you are more likely to find in California than Kobe. Downstairs is the sake bar, the space dominated by a stainless steel spiral staircase, partially wrapped by a display of spirit bottles. Here, patrons can order sushi and salads – such as the ‘Twilight in BKK Roll’ (B280), seaweed wrapped raw fish with a spicy Thai sauce, and Wasabi Maguro salad (seared tuna, B280) – made by chefs working behind the adjoining counter, and sit back with a bottle of imported sake. Upstairs is the more formal dining room, lined completely on one side by lounge seating, with more conventional tables along the opposite wall. The most intriguing feature here is the large hole inset in every table. Protected by a cover, it is designed to accommodate a basket of white hot coals – a barbecue for grilling your own meat. If you’re hungry enough, order the Shogun Platter (B1,300 for large) – a selection of choice cuts of beef – then sit back as things hot up. Lastly, if you’re a fan of mochi (Japanese ice cream in dough), make sure you order the berry-flavoured Harajuku Paradise (B90).

อิซา สุขุมวิท 55 (ทองหลอ)

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food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K AMERICAN BKK BAGEL BAKERY 518/3 Maneeya Center, Ploenchit Road | 02-254-8157 | www.bkkbagelbakery. com | Mon-Fri 8:30am-6:30pm, Sat (bagels only) 8:30am-12:30pm. BKK Bagel Bakery serves up the Big Apple's most iconic foodstuff, though with demand often outstripping supply you'd best get there early (when we visited on a weekday, the batch of 300 cooked overnight were all gone by 2pm). For cream cheese, you have a selection of plain, olive, garlic and dill, and lebaneh (B30 each), which can be schmeared on your choice of plain, sesame, poppy, whole wheat or cinnamon raisin bagel (B35 each). In addition, there are six sandwiches to choose from, ranging from B150 to B225 in price. If you're hungry enough, order The Show Stopper (roast turkey, Danish Havarti cheese, bacon, avocado, and whole grain mustard, B225) a packed bagel that does exactly what the name suggests, while the Lox,

october 2011

Gaggan

Stock and Bagel (B175) is a slightly less hefty open-faced serving of lox (cured salmon fillet), plain cream cheese, tomato, and red onion.

บีเคเค เบเกิ้ล เบอเกอรี่ อาคารมณียา ถ.เพลินจิต

INDIAN GAGGAN 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02-652-1700 | Daily 6pm-11pm | $$$

food & drink

Chef Gaggan Anand spent time at the recently closed elBulli, in Spain, learning the modern cooking techniques that propelled that restaurant to the top of the world dining charts. Now he’s using them at Gaggan, a Bangkok newcomer billed as “progressive Indian”, although not all dishes are overtly sub-continental. A ten-course tasting menu heads the show, blending highlights from the a la carte with market-led inspirations, and

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Cafe Chilli

changing every few days. It builds from restrained courses like oysters in chutney foam and roasted foie gras with raspberry chutney to impressively prepared full-on Indian, including an excellent bhunna mutton curry, velvety tender from slow sous vide cooking, and charged with deep, rich and balanced flavours: the star of the night. Along with wines, there’s an orange and coriander-tinged beer, co-developed by El Bulli and marketed in a 75cl wine bottle, plus house cocktails, such as Lychee Caprioska, a tasty sweet and sour mash of lychee and lime frozen in liquid nitrogen and sunk in a bath of vodka. The summer house cool of white woods and rattan, in an old Thai town house set back off the main soi, has lots of cosy nooks and crannies and a small roof terrace on the upper floor. It’s a smart but laid-back place to sample a fresh approach to Indian cooking that Gaggan says mimics the restaurant’s tag line: “It’s progressing every day”.

กากั้น ซ.หลังสวน

LAO/ISAAN CAFE CHILLI (map C3) G Floor, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-610-9877 |www.cafechilli.com | 11am – 10pm |$ The universal appeal of Isaan food is on full view in Cafe Chilli at lunchtimes, when the place buzzes with posh office princesses, immaculately coiffed khun yings, gangs of schoolchildren and, that rare thing, dapper expats. Maybe it’s the air-con. Maybe it’s the classy (for a mall) interior, lent an old Chinese apothecary feel courtesy of black teak and shelves. Or maybe it’s that the smart Isaan food lives up the menu’s saab lai der (that’s Isaan for very delicious) tagline, with herbs and spices and flavours kept respectfully intact. Take the som tom pu maa. Ours was funky and fresh, leaving us with zesty lips. Even better was the grilled lamb rack served with nam jim jaew dip and wonton-style rolls of sticky rice – one of the fanciest Isaan dishes we’ve had. The tom saep moo soup is a little flat and forgettable – we prefer the tarter, grittier versions found on the street – but still, there’s an admirable keep-it-authentic philosophy at work here.

สยามพารากอน

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food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

brunch

No matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music, enjoy a fine feast, have fun with the family, or simply soak up the sun, the 'City of Angels' serves up a brunch to suit all tastes; here we present some of Bangkok's best

brunch

review

KUPPA Kuppa brought the first dose of café chic to Bangkok when it opened twelve years ago, and it remains one of the capital’s great success stories. There’s no dedicated brunch here, in terms of either buffet fare or a special menu, but it’s one of the liveliest Sunday lunch hangouts in town, packed with families of all nationalities. The attraction is a well-designed, uncomplicated menu at reasonable prices and a smart but laid-back interior. The huge space has a large central wooden bar, blackboard menus, marble and wrought iron tables, paintings on brickwork walls and loads of light, diffused by Venetian blinds covering giant windows. It’s a design triumph that presses all the right buttons for the artsy middle-classes. They even have their own coffee roaster. The menu is divided into sections like sandwiches, salads, pastas, Thai, pizzas, mains…with five to ten punter-friendly items in each. You might start with prawn and crab cakes, or a salad of Parma ham, chorizo and salami. Mains include grilled dory snowfish with asparagus and mashed potato; crispy pork leg; or miso encrusted salmon on braised fennel, all at a mere B420-595. Among desserts is the world’s lightest cheesecake (unofficial). Nothing’s outstanding, but everything’s good, and well worth these prices. Kuppa proves it’s possible to have a successful restaurant that’s stylish and serves decent food at fair prices. It’s a very fine example of what Bangkok needs more of.

WHERE 19 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit OPEN Daily 10am-11pm PRICE $$-$$$

คัปปา สุขุมวิท 16

october 2011

food & drink

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dessert

THE FABULOUS BAR & DESSERT While loud, sweaty bars are Khao San Road’s specialty, there are a few beacons of understated cool hidden on the famous backpacker strip. Most are tucked down little, blink-and-you’ll-miss-‘em alleys and aimed at the city’s babyfaced taste-makers: the young Thai indie crowd. One of our favourite’s, The Fabulous Bar & Dessert Café, is a stylish dessert and cocktail stop located in the woody house that used to be café-cum-shop, It’s Happened to be a Closet. Looks-wise, it’s Central Perk from Friends meets retro-fetishising hipster pad. Commodious sofas abound in this multi-level room with a smart red paint job as does chunky 70s hi-ﬁ equipment, black and white Beatles photos and shelves stacked with Jackie Collins novels and old Latin Jazz LPs, among other zany bits-n-bobs the co-owner picked up at the Ratchada Night Market. The overall effect is refreshingly un-Khao-San-like, especially as there’s jazz, fridge-cool air-con and – get this – all they serve is cocktails, coffee and cake. Pretty darn sumptuous and generously proportioned homemade cake at that. Leading the way on the 6-strong menu is the Choc Satin, a molten lava cake oozing with sticky, sumptuous dark Swiss chocolate. Coming in a close second is the Fabulous Toast: an almost 2 inch thick slice of toast served with globules of vanilla ice cream and a little pot of maple syrup.

desserts

review WHERE Khao San Rd., Talad Yod, 02-629-1144 OPEN 10am – midnight PRICE $

เดอะ เฟเบอลัส บาร แอนด ดีเสิรท ถ.ขาวสาร

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food & drink

october 2011

&D Fo OoOdD & rDi nRkI N K

wine

wine bar

review

WHERE 137 Soi Thonglor 10; 02-714-7599; www.facebook.com/rpb.wine OPEN Mon – Tue 5:30pm-1am, Wed 5:00pm1am, Thu - Sun: 5:30pm-1am

WINE REPUBLIC We welcome Bangkok’s wine coming-of-age with open arms. What we’re slightly less fond of are all the mediocre wine bistros, with their ‘wine’-themed names and good looks but lack of a sommelier, decent selection and wine list, that have sprung up to cater for it. Expecting the worst then, we ventured into Thonglor’s newest, in a prime location on the corner of Soi 10, in what used to be Whisky Mist, and were surprised by what we found. Ok, so you still have to peel yourself off your leather sofa and trudge up to the wine rack to choose a bottle here. But instead of the staff who know as much about wine as the customers (or less, in many cases) we were chuffed to ﬁnd Wine Republic’s secret weapon – Andreas. An American friend of the owners, this affable “wine geek” is on hand to help you choose a bottle ﬁve days a week. And he’s very good at it – during our visit we were impressed at his wine savvy and dedication to helping customers “have fun” and “drink out of their comfort zone”. His tight selection – eclectic, free of cliché labels and arranged by region (as well as sparkling wines and roses) – is also refreshing. And evolving all the time, as he takes note of customer’s requests 66

october 2011

(an example being the Corto Rugolin Ripasso, a sweet red). Having, with his help, picked a complex Australian shiraz, a Yering Station 2007 (B1,750), we then settled into Wine Republic proper. Again, we were pleasantly surprised. Prepared at a grill kitchen open to the street and the glares of passersby, the bistro food is as tasty as it is predictable (i.e. very – think pastas, pizzas and steaks written up on a Minibar Royale-esque clipboard menu). Our mussels in white wine (B190), seafood pasta in sweet white wine sauce (B280), and oven pizza smothered with mozzarella, salami and black olives, among other toppings (B320), were all winners (though we’ll skip the dry garlic bread, B80, next time). If there’s a trump card that gives Wine Republic a leg-up, though, it’s the trendy atmosphere. Relaxed yet sophisticated, this charcoal-black steel and glass structure features clubby leather sofas and dim spot lighting inside, a funky semi openair terrace with excellent people-watching outside, and a DJ spinning decent house music for the good looking Thonglor crowd. It was buzzing on a Tuesday night, so clearly we’re not the only ones who approve. Max Crosbie-Jones

ไวน รีพับลิค ทองหลอ ซ.10

food & drink

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diVino

Food & Wine

diVino Pennyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Balcony Thonglor 16, Sukhumvit 55 Bangkok 10110 Thailand Tel: 027 148 723 www.divinobkk.com

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food & drink

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

one night in bangkok

Our team of party animals scour the city to ﬁnd the hottest gossip and news, uncovering the latest openings, events, offers and performers that will be lighting up the city this month. So what are you waiting for? It’s time to head into the night

Ones to watch: Ooh and the Ballyhoo

Brown Sugar Bows Out

Slowly but surely the nightlife seems to be draining from Sarasin Road, the short strip of bars just north of Lumpini Park that used to draw revelers of all sexual orientations for fun but relaxed nights out. The latest sign of this sad demise – Sarasin mainstay, Brown Sugar Jazz Pub (p.79), is closing its doors after over twenty ﬁve years. It’s not all bad news though: it should be open as usual until the end of this month, and one of the partners is opening a new branch, dubbed ‘Brown Sugar Jazz Boutique’, about 10 minutes walk from Khao San (469 Phrasumen Road) in November. Keep up with developments at www.facebook. com/brownsugar.bkk.

october 2011

Who are they? There’s Pong Nakata on guitar, westerner Patrice L’Amour on drums and Noppon Saritapirak on bass, but the band is to all intents the solo project of Wasit “Ooh” Mookdavijit, formerly the singer for local indie bands Day Tripper and Crub. He writes the songs as well as croons them. The style: Ooh grew up listening to punk rock and post-punk acts like The Cure, The Buzzcocks, Placebo, The Libertines and The Smiths. And sure enough, you can hear their inﬂuence – among others – in his songs ranging from Brit Pop to aching ballads and fast eighties new-wave-tinged numbers. The buzz: ‘Half a Song’, the first single off their forthcoming debut album ‘The Other Stories’, is a corker – a slow, heartfelt number with Suede-like licks and a soaring chorus. If there’s any justice you’ll be hearing Thai bands cover it for years to come. We’re not only the ones who approve – it was playlisted recently on Fat Radio. Where can I catch them? Their next gig is at House RCA on Saturday 8 October, where they’ll play alongside the likes of The Mousses, Pry & May T and Lullaby. To ﬁnd out about further dates, follow them at www.facebook. com/oohandtheballyhoo or on twitter (OohTheBallyhoo). The album will be out soon on Panda Records (www. pandarecords.com).

nightlife

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HAPPY HOURS

While available in venues all over town some of Bangkok’s drinks specials have stayed with us (mostly due to the epic nights – and hangovers – that have ensued because of them). Here are some of our favourites, all tried and tested. Coyote Silom branch:1/2 Convent Road, Silom | 02-631-2325. Sukhumvit Branch: 575-579 Sukhumvit Road | 02-662-3838. www. coyoteonconvent.com | 3-7pm weekdays, 11am-7pm weekends Warning: this Mexican restaurant’s buy-one-get-one margarita deal can do serious damage to your night out. Also, ladies get there’s free between 6-8pm on Thursdays. The Londoner 591 UBC II Building, Basement B 104, Sukhumvit 33 | 02-2610238-9 | www.the-londoner.com | 5pm-1am every Wednesday If there’s a spike in people taking sickies on Thursdays it’s this pub’s fault. Beloved by expats, their ‘Wacky Wednesday’ deal (all drinks two-for-one all night!) is one of the deadliest in town. Longtable Column Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok | 02-302-2557~9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 5-7:30pm everyday A scintillating spot for sundowners. Sip two-for-one standard drinks while you enjoy widescreen 25 storey-high views over downtown Sukhumvit and nibble free nuts. Molly Malone’s 1/5 Convent Rd, Silom | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-7160 | www. mollymalonesbangkok.com| 7-9pm daily This Irish-themed pub has some decent deals going between 4-7pm (pints of Heineken, Tiger and Chang for B85) but the one we take advantage of the most are the jugs of Heineken or Tiger for only B200 from 7-9pm. Nest Le Fenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02305-4000 | www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm-8pm daily Mojito lovers should head here on Mondays between 5-10pm, when they’re buy one get one. Long Island Iced Teas are also buy 2 get 5 (yes, really, ﬁve!) from 5-8pm daily. Tapas 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-2947 | www.tapasiarestaurants. com | until 7pm daily Bangkok’s ﬁrst tapas bar offers buy 1 get 1 free jugs of sangria before 7pm every day. Tuba 34 Room 11-12A, Soi Cham Chun (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02711-5500 | www.design-athome.com | 5-8pm everyday Kitsch furniture store meets bar meets restaurant. Everything from the beers to the sweet cocktails served in glassware so big you need two hands to lift them is buy one get one. www.bangkok101.com

nightlife

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

clubs Bed Supperclub

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537; www.bedsupperclub.com. Daily 7.30pm-1am With its uber-modern oval spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: ﬁne dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its a-lapage white interior is deﬁnitely a place to see and be seen. The food is worldclass on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-notch talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-name DJs tend to spin on Thursdays, house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

october 2011

Before you go clubbing in Bangkok, know that stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, hotel clubs at 2am. The legal drinking age is 20, and all patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry, and absolutely no smoking inside Q Bar

Route 66

CLUB CULTURE (map B3) Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall), 089497-8422; club-culture-bkk.com.WedSat 8pm-late Club Culture comes from the same brains behind the city’s annual dance music festival, Culture One. After being evicted from its original home, a former Thai theatre on Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this gritty four-storey warehouse in the Old City in early 2010, much to the relief of its regulars – a cross-cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning expats. Like the old days they promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, drum n bass and house music of all genres.

คลับ คัลเจอร ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง (หลังนิทรรศรัตนโกสินทร)

THE CLUB (map A3) 123 Khaosan Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn 02-629-1010,www.theclubkhaosan. com, B100 (incl. 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to ﬁnd they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret nightlife

lend a fairy-tale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to the halcyon days of trippy psy-trance. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. Dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

เดอะคลับ ขาวสาร

DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa), 02-711-6970. BTS Thong Lo. Daily 8pm-1am. Entrance free. Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thonglor area is Demo – a former tenement building turned grafﬁti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d ﬁnd in East London or some other hipster-ville. It sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hiphop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system.

เดโม ทองหลอ ซ.10

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GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www. glowbkk.com | 6pm-1am This boutique club/bar challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of underground electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website.

โกลว สุขุมวิท ซ.23

INSOMNIA (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 12 (between Times Sq/ Soi 12) | www.clubinsomniagroup.com A spin-off from the Pattaya night palace of the same name, Insomnia is one of Sukhumvit’s busiest afterhours joints. LED lasers twirl around a huge main room with a giant disco ball at its centre, while DJs spin electro house out of a throbbing mounted speaker system. Some shady ladies and their hangers-on do head here (do we need to spell it out?), but unlike most of the competition, Insomnia is not overrun with them and attracts some cool sorts too.

อินซอมเนีย ซ. สุขุมวิท 12

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Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274; www. qbarbangkok.com. BTS Nana. 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a ﬂirty crowd every night and big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin Q Bar & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge. Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, which is perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty shawarmas).

คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

ROUTE 66 (map E3) 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue; route66club.com. Entrance free for Thais, B200 foreigners (including two drinks) Rammed with groups of dressed-to-

nightlife

kill young Thais on weekends, ‘Route’, as its affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands play in ‘The Novel’. It’s not a good place to lose your mates after one too many but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area.

รูท 66 อาร ซี เอ

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4, 02-632-7982. BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom. Daily 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always hopping.

ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

bars with views

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-ﬁlled streets? Fancy a breather from the smog? Then take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where you can survey the glittering skyline below. Red Sky

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple), 02-221-9158; www.arunresidence.com Daily 6pm-1am Romantic Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style open-air bar featuring balmy river breezes, whisper-soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace onto the Chao Phraya River and, on the far banks beyond, Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber ﬂoodlights make it glow against the night sky.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

LONG TABLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurantcum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively 72

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petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน สุขุมวิท ซ.16

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www. banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature nightlife

cocktail and feel romance welling up.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

NEST (map D3) Le Fenix 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 | www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm-2am Nest is the rooftop bar of choice for Sukhumvit’s international party crowd. An urbane open-air oasis on the ninth ﬂoor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, it’s a loungey and laidback spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket bar food from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include MODE, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike, you ask? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape rather than detached from it.

เลอฟนิกซ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

PANORAMA (map C4) Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, Rama 4 Road, 02-632-9000; panoramabangkok.com. BTS Saladaeng. Daily 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for rainy nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter located in the partitioned area at the rear of the Crowne Plaza’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd ﬂoor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and downtown’s thrusting skyscrapers.

รร. คราวน พลาซา ถ. พระราม 4

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RED SKY (map C3) Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Road | BTS Chit Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Circling the 56th ﬂoor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers city panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades to black, and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs, and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes roam the scenery. Daily happy hours (50% off selected wines, beers and cocktails between 5-7pm) and prompt, smooth service make the experience all the more enjoyable.

รร.เซ็นทาราแกรนดแอท เซ็นทรัลเวิลด ถ.พระราม 1

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, 02-624-9555; www.thedomebkk.com Daily 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Despite having just featured prominently in The Hangover Part II, these places are definitely not spots for the shabbily attired; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร ถ.สีลม

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel | 123 Charoennakorn Road | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and heart-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd ﬂoor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร

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nightlife

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

hotel bars & clubs BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. Joining this premium ﬁnger food is a menu of creative cocktails priced at B400 net, live music every Friday and Saturday from 10pm, plus a slew of specials. Drinks between 5:308:30pm on weekdays go for B250 and include free hors d’oeuvres, and ladies enjoy drinks for just B150 net per glass each Wednesday from 9pm.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขมุ วิท ระหวางสุขมุ วิท 12 และ 14

BEERVAULT (map D3) Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 |BTS Asok | 02-304-3200 | www.fourpoints.com |11.30am-12pm Only 80 count ‘em paces from Sukhumvit Road, this snazzy glass and brick box with a colour-changing LED column dangling over its central bar, serves 48 bottled brews and six on tap (as well as wines to keep the ladies happy). Most hail from Belgium, making the BeerVault the ﬁrst serious downtown alternative to the ever popular Belgium beer bar, Hobbs, over on Thonglor. Thanks to its streetfront location, it feels more approachable than your usual bleak hotel bar; and as well as decent happy hours between 5:30-7:30pm, there’s a free salad bar.

St. Regis Bar

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-209- 8888 | www.cm2bkk. com | 10pm-2am | facebook.com/ conceptcm2 The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in fourteen years after it ﬁrst opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the danceﬂoor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the rotating line-up of live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition. International/Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge. Check out their Facebook page for news of their popular monthly theme parties and drinks promotions.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร สยามสแควร ซ.6

ST. REGIS BAR (MAP C3) 12th Floor, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Rajadamri Road | 02-207-7777 | www. stregis.com | 10am-1am (weekdays), 10am-2am (weekends) At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out onto the terrace of The St. Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out onto the terrace. Said to have originated in Napoleon’s era, this highfalutin ritual is a tradition stretching way back to the early days of the original St. Regis in New York. Indeed, it’s not the only one. Yet another are the Bloody Marys, which the hotel chain claims to have invented in 1934 (the one to try is the Siam Mary, Bangkok’s own spice-infused version). Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horse-racing with a fine malt whisky in hand.

รร. เดอะ เซนต รีจิส ถ.ราชดำริ

BeerVault

รร. โฟรพอยทส บาย เชอราตัน ถ.สุขุมวิท 15

CM2

october 2011

nightlife

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NIGHTLIFE Tuba

bars

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | 6pm-1am; closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays of the month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety holein-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to ﬁll up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading 76

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off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (ﬁrst on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok ginpalaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชารลีย ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

CLOUDS GF SeenSpace,Thonglor Soi 13,Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 02-185-2365 | BTS Thonglor | $$ Evoking a future where “there are no more natural resources”, this slim concrete shell at the rear of Thonglor’s SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leaf-encasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by “NASA technicians” in white overalls, and later on a DJ spins acid jazz while a female dancer sits atop one of the blocks, calmly polishing her gun and blowing bubbles. It’s not yet a big crowd-puller, but the result is enjoyably bizarre, part ultramodern mausoleum to nature, part space-station drinking hole.

คลาวด โครงการการซีนสเปซ ซ.ทองหลอ 14 nightlife

HYDE & SEEK (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www. hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ This ﬂash downtown gastro bar with a spacious outdoors terrace draws the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind New York’s successful Kittichai, while the bar is fuelled by regional cocktail consultancy Flow. The sleek, Georgian inﬂuenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, artisanal cocktails or Belgian ales.

แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ ซ.รวมฤดี

TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Soi Cham Chun (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02-711-5500 | www.design-athome.com | 11am-2am every day This sprawling two-storey furniture store could slot happily in our shopping, dining or nightlife sections. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, vintage sign or goofy tchotchke. Others roll up for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, Tuba works best as a bar, as the implausible setting and generous Happy Hour (5-8pm daily; buy one get one free) mean there really are few cooler places in town to kick back after work with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases – the glassware can be that big!). Owned by the same hoarders behind Lad Phrao furniture warehouse Papaya, it features room upon room of haphazardly arranged eye-candy. And just for show it ain’t – if you grow attached to that Yoda statue, Lucien Freud-esque nude or luminous green gnome-shaped lamp, simply wave your plastic at the waiter and point.

ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21)

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THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084- 520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor |www. theironfairies.com Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — that just happens to serve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam ﬁlmset. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่สแอนดโค ซ.ทองหลอ

SHADES OF RETRO (map E4) Soi Tararom 2,Thong Lor | BTS Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 | 3pm-1am | cash only Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thonglor spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture store-café, Shades provides a quiet hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd by day, fun people-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, ﬂip through a

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Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which ﬂirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully.

WTF

เฉดส ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมเฉดสออฟเรโทร ซ.ธารารมย 2 ทองหลอ

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini | 02-286-1558 | Mon-Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Yet it attracts a ﬁercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers, hipsters and professional barﬂies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom – and watch the night unfold.

วองส เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

nightlife

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02- 626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www. wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm- 1am (gallery open from 3pm) This tiny shophouse – signposted by grafﬁti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. Occasional leftﬁeld live gigs, art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and a mix of local indie hipsters, NGO workers, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with, make this one of the hippest and most cerebral drinking holes in the city.

ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

live music AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

BRICK BAR (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced twentysomethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

COSMIC CAFE (map E3) RCA Block C (opposite LED) The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small danceﬂoor. On one night you might the place jumping, as the Paradise Bangkok DJs host a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon. On another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, 78

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Raintree Pub

electronica or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned art-school hipster types to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must.

คอสมิค คาเฟ อารซีเอ

RAINTREE PUB (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www. raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This all-wooden timecapsule hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

รานจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย

PARKING TOYS (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am Inside this ex-garage out in the northern suburbs it’s pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, nightlife

rockabilly, and metal. It’s a hike, but worth it.

ปารคกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร

SAXOPHONE PUB (map C3) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02-246-5472 | www.saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Attracting youngish Thais and the odd foreigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, wood-ﬁlled ﬂoors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.

แซกโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | The one place that every taxi driver knows, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub, and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas. Great for large groups, but reserve ahead for the best tables.

โรงเบียรเยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

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BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www. mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical ﬁlm noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A deﬁ nite big Bangkok must, even if just the once.

Bamboo Bar

jazz clubs

รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is deﬁnitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ. สารสิน

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www. conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed www.bangkok101.com

place. A boozy, high-proﬁle crowd ﬁlls the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buy one-get-onefree Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for peopleogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Road, 02-649-8888; sheratongrandesukhumvit. com. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Daily 10am- 12.30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The highceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host nightlife

to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch, a veritable institution.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ระหวางสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

NIU’S ON SILOM (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am Located not far from the Chao Phraya, this New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors from across the jazz world. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available.

นิวส ออน สีลม บานสีลม

october 2011

NIGHTLIFE

pubs

pub

BULLY’S

review

First impressions can be deceptive, and Bully’s certainly falls into this category. Located close to the infamous Nana Plaza, boasting a mock Tudor facade and with a giant bronze bull out front, you might wonder just what kind of strange little funhouse you’ve stepped into. But, this is no novelty shop. Neither is it your average darts parlor or pick up joint. Instead, you will discover a spacious, American-inﬂuenced sports bar with a laid-back and slightly eclectic ambience. Filled with tiffany lamps, sprawling trees, neon signs and wooden canoes hanging from the ceiling, it is part pub, part curio cave. The long bar dominates the length of one side with the rest of the space given over to high tables, wall-hugging booths and four pool tables. Bully’s Angels, the attentive bar staff, ﬂit between the WHERE 8 Sukhumvit Rd, tables as regulars enjoy the btw Soi 2 and Soi 4 big screen sports, discerning BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 choice of music and, of www.bullysbangkok.com course, the mandatory dart OPEN 11am-1am board. With Kronenbourg, Bulmers Cider, Guinness and Paulaner all available, the choice of drinks is as varied as the décor, while the affordable food wins plus points thanks to the owner’s previous experience as a top chef.

บุลลีส่ ผ บั สุขมุ วิทระหวางซ.2 และ 4

Balcony Humidor

CIGAR LOUNGES

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ BALCONY HUMIDOR & CIGAR BAR Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 CLUB PERDOMO BANGKOK 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight LA CASA DEL HABANO The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com P&L CLUB GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

october 2011

nightlife

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Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still ﬁnd some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak SATHORN ROAD

THANIYA

PATPONG

SILOM ROAD

1 CONVENT ROAD

SURASAK ROAD

Pubs 101

SILOM AREA PUBS

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

SUKHUMVIT AREA PUBS

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SOI 39

SUKHUMVIT ROAD

BTS Asoke

SOI 22

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BTS Nana

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SOI 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aﬁcionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey ediﬁce. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

october 2011

SHOPPING

spotlight

Every month, we throw a spotlight onto one of Bangkok’s malls or markets, selecting the shops you need to check out, what to buy from them, as well as all the information you need to know on how to get there and navigate around

Crystal Design Center

GETTING THERE

f it’s furnishings you’re after, you can’t get bigger or more all-in-one-place than the Crystal Design Center. A twenty or so minute drive out of central Bangkok, this humungous mall strip-like complex allegedly stocks a staggering 10,000 home décor and furniture brands. It’s made up of eight low-rise buildings, each linked by neat, obstacle-free pedestrian walkways and packed full of all you need to turn your peeling home into a postmodern palace. Building A is host to a giant SB Design Store, which is Thailand’s top mass-market (and fairly generic) furniture brand. Building B stocks Fendi, Le Reve, Bohemia Crystal and lots of other eye-poppingly pricey imported brands. And Building C is the place to head if you’re after more affordable local pieces, as its second floor showcases Thai brands under the ‘Crystal Design Forum’ banner – the likes of Anyroom, Deesawat and Hygge, among others. Building D stocks all you need bathroom-wise; and Building F textiles and accessories. If your pockets aren’t that deep, or you’re simply not in the market for a curvy Isamu Noguchi coffeetable (B106,000) or brown leather Chesterfield (B55,000), you’ll be pleased to find that there’s more. As shopping is hungry work, the CDC is also home to a copious amount

october 2011

shopping

Take the MRT to Ladprao station and then take a taxi. Alternatively, to beat the traffic jams, take the Chalong Rat Expressway or EkamaiRamIndra highway.

www.bangkok101.com

of restaurants and cafés. Wine I Love You (a wine bistro), Japanese Shabu restaurants and EST. 33 (an upscale pub with its own micro-brewed beer and beer garden), are just a few of the venues to be enjoyed at Building E and the CDC’s recently opened Phase II, a lifestyle mall that has a similar layout and assortment of shops to Sukhumvit’s K Village. Even more importantly, on the weekends (Fri, Sat and Sun) the CDC plays host to a slightly posh flea market in the evenings (5pm-11pm). Clothes, bags, and accessories such as jewelry, phone and gadgets, as well as snacks and items closer to the CDC’s roots – landscaping décor, gardening tools, pots, plants and seeds, etc – are all sold. Given that it’s now monsoon season, you’d think that the weather is likely to rain on the market’s parade. But this is not so – if rain arrives, stalls seek shelter under the covered walkways, aisles and arcades. Even though many of the home department stores, showrooms, and boutiques close by 8pm, all the above means you can wine and dine and browse well into the night at CDC, making it one of the best reasons going to hop in a taxi and head for the ‘burbs. Popular with everyone from your average middle-class family to white collar workers and hi-so princesses giving their beloved lapdog a safe, soi-dog free stroll, we like to think of it as a posh interior design complex with mass-appeal. Krittana Khurana

คริสตัล ดีไซน เซ็นเตอร ถ.ประดิษฐมนูธรรม

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WHERE 1420/1 Praditmanutham Road, Klongjun, Bangkapi; 02-101-5999; www.crystaldesigncenter.com OPEN Mon-Thu 10am-8pm, Fri-Sun & Holidays 10am-11pm (many restaurants open until much later)

shopping

october 2011

SHOPPING

Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society; malls here are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are also restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and much more

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

Elevated RAMA 1 RDWalkway

CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam skytrain ststion to its Chit Lom counterpart.

U RI RO AD

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults alike, who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

PH E TB

PHAYA THAI ROAD

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too. 3

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal art from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

RATCHADAMRI ROAD

E R AWA N B A N G KO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

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BTS Chitlom

CHIDLOM

LANG SUAN ROAD

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R AYA

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october 2011

S I PH

RU N G

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

OEN K CHAR

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Very chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

BTS Ploenchit

RIVE

YR A

O PH CHA

WITTHAYU ROAD

CENTRAL CHIDLOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

PHETBURI ROAD

PLOENCHIT ROAD

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom All-white interior features glitzy, top-class brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

G WON SUR A

JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

M S ILO

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VISIT & EXPERIENCE SARAS

SARAS is here to tempt you with a wide variety of delicacies, many of which you will relish for the first time ever in Bangkok. Savour traditional flavours from all over India - Dal Bati Churma and Gatte Ki Sabji from Rajasthan, Kachoris, Makki Di Roti and Sarson Da Saag from Punjab. If you wish to travel light, nothing beats our delicate Mithais from Bengal. Come, Explore More. Open From : Address: Website:

8.30 am to 10.30 pm Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 11.00 pm Sat and Sun 15 Sukhumvit Soi 20, Sukhumvit Road, (Near Windsor Hotel) Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 www.saras.co.th

SHOPPING

jatujak market

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, citysized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the ﬁ ttest: only those with ﬁnely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally

take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites).

All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for more spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. The Jatujak Market of Bangkok, Amber House Books, B1,950, hardcover 86

october 2011

shopping

www.bangkok101.com

JJ Gem

of the month

ROI

No need to traipse upcountry to get your mitts on lovely traditionalstyle northern textiles. The sweet lady who runs Roi, Khun Vasana, regularly heads up to Chiang Mai and the northern border town of Mae Sai to buy stock off hill-tribes like the Naga. She has a very good eye too – naturally dyed cotton skirts, trousers, shoulder clothes, table runners and bags with a durable feel and traditional weave patterns fill her big, nook-filled shop to bursting. Tucked away in a wood cabinet at one end are also some one-off, finely embroidered old cotton and silk pieces, some of them quite old. Give it a look – the prices are very reasonable, and a purchase here helps preserve dying craft skills, as well as support the ethnic minorities who earn a living off them. Where Soi 3, Section 26 | 02-272-5844

JATUJAK MAP

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Section 13

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TO VICTORY MONUMENT

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TO VIBHAVADHI - RANGSIT RD.

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6 C A Pu hat ENG P bl uc ic ha HET 3 Pa k RD rk .

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14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

N AE

K St am at ph io a n en KA g

RD .

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

Chatuchak Park Station

Mo Chit Station

october 2011

SHOPPING

markets

While the fancy designer, air-conditioned malls of Siam grab much of the attention, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, there’s no better way to discover the local retail experience than by heading to one of the city’s many interesting markets

Talat Rot Fai

TALAT ROT FAI (THE TRAIN MARKET) Kamphaeng Phet Road | Mrt Kamphaeng Phet | 6pm-midnight Saturday and Sundays This retro-inflected flea market just around the corner from Jatuchak Weekend Market is well worth the trip, for its hipster vibes and camerafriendly setup as much as what’s sold there. Hundreds of antique hounds and retro-mad dek neaw (teen hipsters) flock to this plot of State Railway department land on Saturday and Sunday evenings to browse and bargain for vintage collectibles, reproductions and fashions. And yet, the chance to pick up a beat up old Michelin Tyre sign, a vintage BMX, or a smelly pair of old trainers is only part of the appeal – flanking Talad Rot Fai is a row of decommissioned train carriages. You can take a stroll through them at your leisure, even kick back on the dusty seats with a cold beer or rocket soda. Backing up the carboot side of things is Rod’s: a railway warehouse turned 20th century antiques wonderland. And 88

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there are lots of snacks and drinks stalls (retro-inflected, naturally), many of them operating out of customised VW vans. Hop aboard, while you can.

ตลาดรถไฟ

RATCHADA NIGHT MARKET Saturday Nights | In the area from BTS Parking lot to The Criminal Court – Ratchadapisek | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight shopping

and your bargaining skills.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

SILOM ROAD/PATPONG Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are definitely essential here.

สีลม/พัฒนพงษ

KHAO SAN ROAD Along every budget traveller’s favourite www.bangkok101.com

Khao San Road

tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in ‘novelty’ T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere new, sometimes bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff are splayed on the street for sale.

scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

เทเวศน

SUKHUMVIT ROAD The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune

PRATUNAM Less than a ten minute walk north of CentralWorld, this sidewalk shopping maelstrom is famed for its bulk clothing deals and huge crowds. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress and great jeans at affordable prices. Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.

ประตูนำ้

ถ.ขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (FLOWER MARKET) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most www.bangkok101.com

Ratchada Night Market

shopping

october 2011

WELLNESS

spas LEYANA SPA (map E4) 33 Thong Lo 13 | Soi Torsak, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-391-7694 | www.leyanaspa.com | 10am-10pm | $$ Tucked away in a warren of residential roads near the Japanese enclave of Thong Lor, this, boutique massage retreat combines a clean, contemporary design with an extensive menu of massage, facial, and body treatments. Choose from a range of massages – including Thai, aroma, warm oil, hot stone, Balinese or Leyana’s Back Revival – to get those kinks out. Most of the spa’s simple yet elegant treatment rooms feature private Jacuzzis, and the traditional Thai-style herbal steam rooms (think one-person tee-pees) are a must. Just relax and concentrate on your rejuvenation or detox. Owned and operated by a young Thai woman who is mindful of the details, Leyana is well worth the effort of getting to. Thankfully, the spa offers a complimentary shuttle service from the Thong Lo BTS station.

ลียานาสปา ทองหลอ ซ.13

Bangkok probably offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. In each issue we help you find the best rub-down for your baht, there’s no need to break the bank in order to get a good treatment

RUEN MAI SPA (off map) 467 Phaholyothin 54/4 | 02-993-7887 | Daily 9am-8pm| $$$ If you can manage to find this unassuming, two-room spa tucked away on a busy sidestreet past Don Muang airport, expect an abundance of personal attention and a genuinely knowledgeable coterie of staff trained just next door. Frequented mostly by locals in the area, this three-yearold spa boasts an extensive selection of treatments including ear candling (B500-1100), which therapists say can fix a range of problems from sinus troubles to eye bags. Instead of the health questionnaire favoured by the spas housed in chi-chi Bangkok hotels, well-trained staff members suss out individual kinks via a 10minute “warm-up” before unknotting tired muscles with expert fingers. Make sure to book on weekends, when the tiny space is filled to bursting with stress-addled customers.

HAPA SPA (map D3) 20/4 Sukumvit Soi 3 | BTS Nana | 02651-0966 | www.hapaspa.com | 10am10pm | $$ Wedged between multi-story condos and weirdish hotels, Hapa’s location stands out insofar as you’d never expect a professional spa in an alley off Afro-Arab Nana. A long, glasswalled building draws in the uninitiated through its unique circular entrance and purple-tinged salon to metal boxes. Inside your own private bunker, a stylish, serene setting includes inspired mini gardens, soft purple and cream tones and beds accommodating even the longest-legged Westerner. The extensive menu features the signature Aromatherapy massage, organic body scrubs and other tasty-sounding body delights, plus infrared thermal sauna, all executed by cheery, competent therapists. The all-natural house products are for sale, just as is a wide selection of organic teas and healthy drinks. Service, atmosphere and treatments are all five-star, the prices are budget, especially when you inquire about ever-changing promotions or decide to go for a package. A new favourite.

ฮาปาสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.3

เรือนไมสปา พหลโยธิน 54/4

SPA COST

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ All credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted 90

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wellness

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signature treatment

Rembrandt Hotel’s Oriental Fusion

ast meets West at the Rembrandt Hotel’s cosy warm orange spa, and the result is the Oriental Fusion: a 90 minute signature that believes happiness begins and ends with two well-trained palms. It begins with a form enquiring about which areas are in need of some serious TLC and which are to be avoided. And then you pick your oil – secret blends include the Detoxifying to brighten your skin, World Serenity, and Exotic Sun. Fusing East (Thai traditional massage, or nuat phaen Thai) with West (Swedish-style strokes), what ensues is 90 minutes of city-grief relief, as the hands of a well-trained masseuse slide and glide over your body. Hands, thumbs, elbows, and palms are used to acupressure your aching muscles and stimulate blood circulation. Other highlights of this miniodyssey include focused work on your taut shoulders; the assisted yogalike stretches (or rue si dud ton); the lovely, lingering scent; and sipping hot ginger tea in the hemp-weave chairs with a grin on your face afterwards. Sounds great... but not the pampering you’re after? Fortunately this spotless hotel spa, only a five minute walk from Asok BTS station, offers a fulsome menu of other just as sensuous offerings: from body and foot rubdowns to full facial and body treatments, body wraps, manicure and pedicures and the ‘Krajom’ – a traditional herbal steam bath in a Thai-style tent that’s said to work wonders on your respiratory system. Amornsri Tresarannukul

WHERE 4th Floor, Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100 ext.7450; www.rembrandtbkk.com OPEN 9am-10pm BTS Asok PRICE B1,590 (55 minutes) B2,200 (90 minutes)

เดอะ สปา รร.แรมแบรนดท สุขุมวิท ซ.18

www.bangkok101.com

wellness

october 2011

COMMUNITY

sports MUAY THAI (THAI BOXING) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after

Muay Thai Institute

october 2011

MUAY THAI VENUES

Muay Thai

LUMpHINI BOXING STADIUM Rama IV Road, 02-251-4303. MRT Lumphini. Fights Tue & Fri from 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000 B1,500, B2,000

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

RATCHADAMNOEN STADIUM Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684. Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6.30pm-11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8.30pm-midnight. B1,000, B1,500 ,B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for community

your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. CYCLING SpICEROADS 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2, Sukhumvit 39, 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680; spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours across Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The eye-opening Cycling SpiceRoads daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in other parts of Thailand. www.bangkok101.com

No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint.

บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ์)

MEDITATION CLASSES Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIpAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi, 02-294-9029; baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEpHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Road, 02-673-9353; blueelephant.com. Prices from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. www.bangkok101.com

INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-222-6011; mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng. Free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน

MASSAGE CLASSES WAT pO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Road, 02-622-3551, 02622-3533; www.watpomassage.com. Daily 8am-5pm. B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application community

classes on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทยแผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Building, 87/104 Ekamai Road, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-711-5270; chivasomacademy.com. BTS Ekkamai. Prices from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu.

ชีวาศรม อินเตอรเนชันแนล อะคาเดมีโมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

Chiva-Som International Academy october 2011

COMMUNITY

making merit

Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile local causes you can become involved with. Every issue we highlight the work of a worthy charitable organisation, and provide details on how you too can help

WAT PRA BAHT NUM PHU

uch publicity has been given to the worldwide effort to educate people on the dangers of AIDS and how to protect against this deadly virus. But what about the people who are already infected and are suffering through their long and painful plight? Most of them are kicked to the curb, disowned and considered repulsive to many who still obviously aren’t in possession of the full facts. For these people, places like Wat Pra Baht Num Phu, also known as the AIDS temple, is simply essential, offering refuge. Founded in 1992 by Dr. Alongkot Dikkapanya in the small town of Lopburi, this temple was converted into a hospice specialising in patients suffering from late-stage, full-blown AIDS. Today it treats 500 patients at a time with an evergrowing waiting list of patients that totals over 10,000 people. The hospice holds lectures to educate young children about AIDS and also has two museums on the premises, grimly named the “After Death Room” and the “Bones Museum”, which hold preserved bodies of patients who have died from AIDS, and the cremated remains of patients, awaiting the day a family member might drop by to pick them up. Sadly, when dealing with this disease, particularly at this stage, death is inevitable and anywhere from 3 to 9 patients pass away every single day. The temple also founded the Thammarak Niwet Project, a wide scale housing project for 10,000 people living with AIDS and HIV. To find out how you can help contribute to these or other projects run by the hospice, visit their website for more information: www. aidstemple.th.org

october 2011

Wat Pra Baht Num Phu Khoa Sam Yod, A. Muang, Lopburi, 036-413-805, 036428-222, 089-742-0730–31, aidstemple@hotmail.com

วัดพระบาทน้ำพุ เขาสามยอด จ.ลพบุรี

community

www.bangkok101.com

REFERENCE

Bangkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors alike. However, river and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the roads

getting around

6am-midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: half an hour) and costs B15-45 per journey; the Express Line stops at downtown station Makkasan only and costs B150 (journey time: 15 minutes). Until the end of 2011, as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers, express trains will also whiz between the airport and the last stop, Phayathai, the only one that intersects with the Skytrain, at half hour intervals (journey time: 18 minutes). The price for this promotion is B90 one-way, B150 for the roundtrip. Is the rail link worth using? That depends on where you’re coming from or heading to. Even if you’re staying centrally, you’ll find that an extra journey by taxi, tuk-tuk, skytrain or foot, and with luggage in tow, is probably necessary. http:// airportraillink.railway.co.th

time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

RIVER CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Airport Rail Link A 28-km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangkok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from www.bangkok101.com

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much reference

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with tuk-tuks, fares should be negotiated beforehand.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. october 2011

M Y B A N G KO K

promotion this streetside seafood restaurant keeps on thriving. The seafood here is fresh and reasonably priced. Oysters cost B60 a pop. Every time I eat here I feel happy that I live in a country where food is diverse. Best place to shop These days I can get almost everything I want online. However, I do like Siam Center on Third because of its cosy size, convenience and unpretentiousness. More importantly, I love Thai designers and Siam Center has been an ardent supporter of them for the past 40 years. Best place to relax Health Land spa has so many branches around town. Strong aunties toss and turn you like playdough. Two hours of muscle relaxation for B400 – it doesn’t get any better than that.

Pongsuang Note Experienced Bangkok’s alternative party scene? If so the chances are you’ve seen Note, spinning behind the decks or dancing on the speakers in a daft costume. A creative design studio boss by day, this young man is an irrepressible force of nature on the party circuit by night, cooking up wacky theme parties for Dudesweet (www.dudesweet.org), the influential indie club night he founded in 2002, and popping up at all the coolest shindigs. A go-to guy for journos trying to get a handle on what’s in and what’s not, Note knows what he likes and is never shy about telling anyone, as you’ll see below. Best place for a drink A tiny bar in a rundown alley with revolving art exhibitions, WTF is not too crowded, nor too arty farty – a great place for a pre-party drink. Best place to eat It’s Happened to be a Closet has many branches, but it’s Siam Square one is the first. It’s happened to be my favourite one too. It’s a clothing shop with clothes scattered everywhere. 96

october 2011

Best place to impress a date I like to impress my dates by taking them to a place where people are friendly, interesting and creativeminded rather than being stuck in a fancy joint. The Spice Girls once taught me “if you wanna be my lover, you gotta get with my friends”. Cosmic Cafe is in no way swanky with women in high heels or men in work shirts and two buttons undone. It’s a simple bar with a college party atmosphere. Best place for a real Bangkok experience Patpong, of course. THE SHORTLIST

There’s an Italian restaurant on the second floor. It feels like you’re eating in some fashionable socialite’s walk in closet. It makes you forget that you’re in the middle of busy Bangkok. Most importantly, the food here is amazing. Best place to take visitors Jeh Leib Sea Food. This place has never been recorded in any guidebook, and without any kind of mybangkok

WTF: 7 Sukhumvit 51; BTS Thong Lor; www.wtfbangkok.com It’s Happened to be a Closet: Siam Square Soi 3; BTS Siam Siam Center on Third: 3rd Fl, Siam Center; BTS Siam Jeh Leib Sea Food: in front of Phayathai 2 Hospital, Paholyothin Rd; BTS Sanam Pao Cosmic Café: RCA Block C; www.facebook.com/cosmiccafe.bkk www.bangkok101.com