Bangkok 101 March 2012 by Talisman Media

Your time to chill out or let loose!

• Shop to your heart’s content at Bukit Bintang and end your day with China Town’s vibrant nightlife.

• Spend another day experiencing modern, exquisite Islamic arts and architecture in Putrajaya.

• Just an hour away, catch an ultimate thrill ride on skyway at 6,000 feet above sea level in Genting Highlands.

….Now--grab your sunglasses and cap. Get ready, get set, go!

KL-Genting Fun Package

KL-Genting Free & Easy Package

Inclusive of; - Return ticket by Malaysia Airlines with airport taxes and fuel surcharge - 2 night in hotel 3* with breakfast - City tour in KL & Putrajaya

Inclusive of; - 2 night in hotel 3* with breakfast - Air Condition Van for transfer plus Putrajaya & half day city tour Exclusive of; - Airline ticket

*** Traveling period: until 30 September 2012

*** Traveling period: until 30 April 2012

Eiam Tour & Transport Co., Ltd Tel: 02-862-2522 Fax: 02-862-3385 info@eiamtour.com, www.eiamtour.com

Sunmoon Tour & Travel Co., Ltd Tel: 02-254-3320 Fax: 02-254-3866 sunmoon@sunmoon.co.th, www.sunmoon.co.th

3D2N KL start from THB 11,900 3D2N KL-Genting start from THB 13,200

Reel Cool | City Pulse Kids and the City | Travel Wat Gate | Food & Drink Firehouse | Shopping Terminal 21

• Hop on and hop off a bus to explore around the truly fascinating city of Kuala Lumpur.

• Sit back, relax and enjoy the stunning panorama of the capital before your eyes at the Petronas Twin Towers.

bangkok 101

Malaysia

3D2N KL start from THB 2,520 3D2N KL-Genting start from THB 3,360

march 2012

Tourism Malaysia (Bangkok Office) Unit 1, 3rd Floor Zuellig House 1-7 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-636 3380-3 Fax: 02-636 3384 Website: www.sawasdeemalaysia.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/tourismmalaysiathailand

march 2012 100 baht

REEL COOL Remembering the cut-and-paste Thai movie poster

sun 5 mm E

Wat Khema

R E F E R E N C E | B A N G KO K C I T Y M A P 8

Wat Soi Thong

Province Border

Phahon Yothin

Dir Domection est Don ic A irp Muen ort g

Rama VII Bridge

Prach a Rat Sai 2

Bang Po

River Ferry

25 Pilbul 1

on tha bu ri

a Chu

P ra c h

Kru ng the p-N

Suan Wachira Benchathat t

2 Jatujak Park

Lat Phrao

Chatuchak Park

BTS Sukhumvit Line

et D

Saphan Khwai

Pradiph

Dept.

Payap Wat Thepnahree

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ank

v ad

S aw

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Phetchaburi

Wireless

Italthai

Nana Chard

Wat Maichonglom

Bandon Mosque

Prasanmit

oi 5

S ur a

Wat Muang Khae

wo n

S ilom

Oriental Krung Thon Buri

Sathorn

u Chong Nonsi

orn I 5–S

Saphan Taksin

Sala Daeng

S at h

Benjasiri Park

Surasak

LOM

TH / SA

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Lumphini 9 10

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vit

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Thong Lo

Khlong Toei

3– Ram

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D BT irect S S ion tat ion

Ekkamai

7 8 9

umvit

Benjakiti Park

m ai –

or –

Lumpini Park

3 4 5

Ekka

Si Lom

NIGHLIFE

Pak Khlong Talad Khao San Road Thewet Ratchada Night Market Talat Rot Fai Jatujak Weekend Market

Ratchapraprop

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un ant

/ CH IT

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Charn Issara

Phloen Chit

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

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Direction Internat Suvanabhum ional A i irport

Asoke/Phetchaburi

MARKETS 1

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S uk h

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4 – SI A M

Hua Lamphong

2 nd S

w ay

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Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Si Phraya

Wongwian Yai

pre s s

Nana Nua

hai

Wongwian Yai Railway

it / E x

Ram a IX

Siam

Ph ay a T

ur at h

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Phra Rama 9

Chit Lom

Thong

11 12

C h at

Pratunam

Soi Ton

National Stadium

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Krung Kasem

Makasan

Soi La ng

ak at

Ch ak ra Ph et Ch akk raw

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6–

Ratchathewi

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habu

7 8

Siriraj Medical Museum Royal Barges Museum National Museum National Theatre Museum of Siam Rattanakosin Exhibiton Hall Numthong Gallery Aksra Theatre Goethe Institut Galerie N Bangkok Doll Museum Siam Niramit

Ratchapraprop

Baan Krua Nua Sapan Hua Chang

6 N

Phaya Thai

Sapan Charoenpol

aro

3 4 6

Thailand Cultural Centre

9 Victory Monument

Pe t c

Wora ch

Maha

Chai

Ti Thon

Memorial Bridge

Victory Monument

Phaya Thai

Bumrung Muang

Talad Bobae

H enri D

g N

ay a

ARTS & CULTURE 2

Sanan Pao

Lan Luang

Phan Fa Lilat

et.

Tri Ph

Rajinee

hit

Cha kph 1 et

wit

Huai Khwang

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Ari

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Phra Phi Phit

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en ms Sa

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Ratcha Damno en Nai

Charoen Krung

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Royal Turf Club

Mait

at har Ma

d 5

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m se Ka ng g Kru

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noen

itri Kalayana Ma

Grand Palace b

Tha Tien 1

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Chitralada Palace

Sri

it s

Tha Chang

asa

1 Wang Lang

Thonburi Railway

l m n

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Ph isu

Phra Atith e

Sutthisan

2 nd

Thonburi Railway

13 A ra Ph

Wat Arun Grand Palace Wat Mahathat Wat Pho Wat Chana Songkhram Wat Ratchabophit Wat Bowornniwet Viharn Wat Suthat & Giant Swing Democracy Monument Wat Ratchanatda Wat Saket Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium Vimanmek Mansion Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall Wat Benchamabophit Suan Pakkad Palace Bangkok Butterﬂy Garden Lumpini Boxing Stadium

Thewej

cha

Dusit Zoo

ir i

R at

h tit

ais

oth

Rama VIII Bridge

Suk

7 – OLDTOWN

hra

Sutthisan

Krung Thon Bridge

19 Irrigation

Kamphaeng Phet

Tho

Tet c Kheaw Khai ka

Ratchadapisek

c d f

t han

Tha

Wa ni

Airport Rail Link

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Kjak Kai

Railway

amr

MRT Subway Line

MAP 8

SIGHTSEEING b

BTS Silom Line

Phra Pin Klao Bridge 2 N12

Bangkok

29 Queen Sirkit Park

Canal Boat

ai Sanam Ch

170 x240 mm

11 12

Amorosa The Club Phranakorn Bar Brick Bar Adhere The 13th Rolling Bar Pullman Raintree Pub Saxophone Pub Wong‘s Place Route 66 Cosmic Cafe

Be ari ng

Phra Khanong

Publisher’s letter While Thai films aren’t exactly big hitters internationally, it’s a little known fact that Thailand's film poster tradition is one of the most singular and exuberant in the world, or at least was back in the mid to late 20th Century, before the advent of Photoshop. This month we remember the tradition with a feature that looks back, not at the garish hand drawn posters for which the Kingdom is better known, but rather the more restrained cut-and-paste photo style that predates it. Filled with slick-haired leading men and daintily dressed dames, we hope you enjoy Reel Cool, a retrospective of rare Thai movie poster awesomeness, as much as we did selecting it. And as an aside, anyone interested in perusing more of the Kingdom’s paltry film history should check out the Thai Film Museum in nearby Nakhon Pathom province (p.27). Despite our gaze being focused here, it’s hard to ignore the appeal of Cambodia. In Over the Border we show you another, little known reason to pay a visit: the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge. It’s a luxury retreat buried deep in the Cardamom Mountains – but not as hard to get to as it sounds. Other recommended jaunts off the well worn track include Chiang Mai’s Wat Gate, a leafy old teak-trading enclave on the east banks of the Ping River studded with heritage hotels, boho arts and crafts stores, and quaint coffeeshops. Meanwhile, our long list of upcountry festivals begins p. 31 with Wat Bang Phra’s wild (and very photogenic) tattoo festival, where the faithful unleash the tiger (or the spirit of whatever other animal they have inked on their back or chest). We’ve not forgotten our main duties, either. Our slew of fresh Bangkok-related content includes roundups of new hotels and stuff to do with the kids (City Pulse), an in-depth look at venerable temple Wat Mahathat, and a clutch of restaurant and bar reviews. In Art 1 on 1, we also chat with Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook, the artist behind one of the key events featuring in the latter half of French-Thai cultural festival La Fête (see Metrobeat, p.8, for more). The list goes on, but you the idea – stick with us and you’ll never have a dull moment this March.

TXT

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

M a rch 2012

JOM JAI VIANG PHA – Highness Sweetheart, 1962

What is Bangkok 101? Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in weighty, dated guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

Contributors

publisher

Mason Florence editor-in-chief

Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher

Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia. Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing, he is often found travel writing. Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict,

korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the

world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM. Greek-born but California-raised, dave stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he works for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, while his travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor

Max Crosbie-Jones art director

Christiane Patic´ designer

Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee editorial assistant

Amornsri Tresarannukul Adul Waengemol strategists

Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers

Annette Heile, Julia Chinnock, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Leo Devillers, Korakot Punlopruksa, Steven Pettifor, Howard Richardson, Noy Thrupkaew, Cassandra Beckford contributing photographers

Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit director of sales & marketing

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

director of business development

Erika Teo

sales & marketing manager

Haluethai Wattanapathomvong administrative asssistant

Peeraya Nuchkuar circulation

Pradchya Kanmanee published by

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. bangkok101.com bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 3

Table of COntents city pulse

food & drink

6 metro beat 10 the new breed 12 kids in the city – part 1

58 59 64 66 67 68 69 70 76

s n a p s h ot s 16 very thai: yaa dong 18 chronicle of thailand

Sightseeing 19 sightseeing focus: wat mahathat 24 historic homes 24 shrines 25 temples 26 museums 28 parks & zoos 29 muay thai

meal deals restaurant reviews: firehouse, mellow, 2046 the izakaya nouveau, la table de tee thai all-rounders street food hotspots street eat: pad thai ari eat like nym sweet treats: big knit café restaurants wine review: wine pub

nightlife

t r av e l 30 upcountry now: tattoo festival 32 upcountry now 34 upcountry escapes: the wonders of wat gate 39 hotel deals 40 over the border : kicking back in the cardamons

a r t s & c u lt u r e 44 exhibition highlights 46 art 1-on-1: araya rasdjamrearnsook 48 theatres & cultural centres 49 reading & screening 50 photo feature: reel cool

79 one night in bangkok 80 clubs 81 hotel bars & clubs 82 bars with views 83 bars 85 bar review: marshmellow 88 live music 89 jazz clubs 90 pub review: the robin hood 91 nightlife areas

shopping 92 94 96 97 98 99

new collection: disaya unique boutique: trinkets galore at terminal 21's third floor jatujak market jj gem: new collection markets & sidewalks market focus: khlong thom

wellness 100 massage & spa 101 signature treatment: avanti spa 101 massage & meditation classes

reference 102 getting there 104 maps 112 my bangkok: daniel fraser

on the cover

French-Thai model and actress Amara Asavananda poses as a gun-toting bandit on the poster for lost 1958 film Hao Dong. M a rch 2012

Hotel Partners

CITYPULSE

Nightlife

Festivals Makha Bucha Day on March 7 commemo-

rates a spontaneous gathering of 1200 monks for a sermon by the Buddha after he attained enlightenment. On this public holiday people attend their local temples to make merit and perform Wian Tian, a candlelit procession with monks three times around the temple’s uposatha hall to pay their respects.

Events at Bed Supperclub (02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com) this month include DJ sets from Pendulum with support from DJs Orawan and De Lorean on March 1, and Maya Jane Coles on March 8, who was voted #1 Breakthrough Artist 2011 by Mixmag. Entry to both is B 900, inclusive of one drink. The Bangkok Boat Party promises Hip-Hop, Electro-Breaks, Dubstep, D'n'B and “cheap drinks all night” as it cruises the ChaoPhraya River on March 10. Tickets are B 900 including two drinks. Check www.facebook.com/bangkokboatparty for details. As well as his own albums, US Hip-Hop DJ and producer Statik Selektah has provided beats for the likes of Foxy Brown and M.O.P. He plays Q Bar (02-252-3274) on March 11. B 600 entry includes two drinks; women get free entry until midnight plus two free drinks.

Learning Learn to Read Thai in a Weekend – the ‘Rapid’ Way! with Gary Orman and he claims you

can then sign up with a Rapid Thai teacher via Skype and “speak and understand well in seven months – just by practising a few tongue twisters and studying only 10 minutes a day.” He has an intensive weekend class in Bangkok on March 17 and 18 (B15,000). Sign up at www.learnthaionline.com or call 085-909-9174.

h o wa r d Richardson

Art & Design Winning photojournalism from the World Press Photo Exhibition 2011 will hang in CentralWorld’s lobby until March 8 as part of new Bangkok photo festival, Stream Photo Asia. Free daily guided tours will tell the stories behind the pictures. For more on the organisation visit www.streamphotoasia.com. The exhibition Somewhat Different threatens to challenge your view of furniture with a display from 67 European designers that attempts to “review traditional fixations”. It’s at the Crystal Design Centre until March 13. There’s more info at www.goethe.de/thailand. The Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC 02-664-8448) looks at new approaches to eco-friendly design in the exhibition Everything Forever Now: Designs for a Sustainable Future, running until March 18. 6 | M a rch 2012

bangkok101.com

C I T Y P U L S E | metrobeat M E T R O B E AT

Pop & Rock Brit-Thai band The Standards play Club Culture (089-4978422, www.club-culture-bkk.com) on March 3 as part of their Popscene Asia Tour 2012, with support from Mattnimare.

There’s a live painting show set to a modern baroque music performance titled Baroque Me Baby at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre ( TCDC ) 02-664-8448 on March 4. The music is all improvised, some in rock and jazz style, on traditional baroque instruments, including lute, spinetta, harpsichord, recorder and viola da gamba. The show runs from 7 pm – 8 pm, admission free. J-Rock fans will swamp Impact Arena on March 7 for a date with L’Arc-en-Ciel, here on the Bangkok leg of their world tour. The Japanese four-piece will play stalwart tracks like ‘Ready Steady Go’, ‘Niji’, ‘Driver’s High’ and songs from the new album Butterfly. Get tickets (B1,000 – B 4,500) at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Olivia Newton-John has sold over 100 million albums, won four Grammys, an Emmy and starred in the film Grease with John Travolta. Catch her at BITEC 02-749-3939 on March 23. Tickets (B1,500 – B 6,000) are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).

Books The Neilson Hays Library (02-233-1731, www.neilsonhays library.com) hosts the WordPlay: 2nd Bangkok Literary Festival on March 25, when authors including Kriengsak Charoenwongsak, Joe Cummings and Philip Cornwel-Smith will hold talks, readings and workshops in both English and Thai. Entrance B200 for talks only, B500 – B600 for workbangkok101.com

Jazz German

trombonist

Nils Wogram brings a

trio with Brian Charette (Hammond organ) and Dejan Terzic (drums) for a concert of modern jazz at the Goethe-Institut (02-287-0942) on March 8. Entry B 200. One of Bangkok’s oldest jazz venues Brown Sugar moves to Phra Sumen Road with a launch party on March 9. Kamala Sukosol leads the cast in Hollywood Stars and Divas, a charity concert series at the Siam City hotel (02-247-0123) from March 15 – 17. Also in attendance will be daughter Marisa, son Sukie, lots of other family members, a dance troupe and the 20-piece Prachin Songpow Big Band Or chestra. They will entertain with covers of stars from Frank Sinatra to Michael Jackson. Tickets are B1,000 – B 2,500 (15 and 17) and B 35,000 – B 40,000 for the Gala Dinner on March 16.

Jazz guitarist Jerry Byrd was a sideman for pianist-vocalist Freddy Cole and has played with the likes of Dizzy Gillespie, Roland Kirk and Sonny Stitt. He’s at Niu’s on Silom (02-266-5333) on March 30 with a quartet playing Straight Ahead Jazz. Entrance free. American singer Alice Day is back at the Living Room in the Sheraton Grande Hotel (02-649-8640) until April 1, singing jazz standards backed by the Shawn Kelley Trio, with pianist David Gomes. Blues venue Tokyo Joe’s (Sukhumvit Soi 26) continues to rebuild. It now has a stage – back in its old position at the end of the room – and there’s a full food menu delivered from the new kitchen with items like duck confit and spaghetti al salmon. Live music Tuesday to Sunday includes Soi Dog (Saturdays) and the Sunday jam. M a rch 2012 | 7

CITYPULSE

L a FÊte The French cultural festival La Fête continues at various venues until March 29 with a mix of theatre, music, circus, dance, art, cinema, food and fashion. On March 2 – 3, at the Sodsai Pantoomkomol Centre For Dramatic Arts (B 4 00), the modern circus company Sacrés Français! share the stage with the Adrien M / Claire B Company, who explore the “sensitive interaction between scenic art and computer art”.

On March 9 and 10 Patravadi Theatre hosts Company Beau Geste for a one-man, comedic “danced conference” in French, with simultaneous Thai translation, by Dominique Boivin, called My Own History of Dance (B 600). On March 11, Company Beau Geste also present Transports Exceptionnels, a free open-air show in Lumpini Park. This duo with a dancer and an excavator sees human perform with machine. From March 15 – April 29, the Museum of Siam exhibits the The Two Planets Series, in which Thai artist Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook shows the filmed reaction of Thai villagers to four major 19 th century French masterpieces reproduced in original size. Entrance free. Meanwhile, the French Film Festival shows all month at SF World Cinema, Central World (02-268-8888) with a comedy theme. Highlights include Service Entrance, Wolberg Family and Altogether, Too Many. Films are mainly in French with English subtitles. Tickets are B120. The festival closes with the outdoor photography exhibition Portraits de Mode by Jean-Marie Périer, celebrating Thai and French fashion, including shots of luminaries like Yves Saint-Laurent and Christian Lacroix. It runs from March 29 – June 30 at Zen Department Store. Admission free. See www.lafete-bangkok.com for full programme details.

Theatre The Bangkok Theatre Festival 2011 continues until March 4 at the riverside Santichai Prakarn Park (free) and at venues around the city. For more information see www.bangkoktheatrenetwork.com.

This year’s Disney on Ice presents a medley of celebrations from around the world in a production called Let’s Celebrate! at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from March 23 – 27. Over 50 Disney characters from Donald Duck to Mickey Mouse get festive with Chinese New Year, an UnBirthday Party with Alice and the Mad Hatter, a Hawaiian luau with Lilo and Stitch, plus a host of other carnivals. Tickets are B 600 – B2,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).

Comedy The Punchline Comedy Show returns on March 2 and 3 with Whose Line Is It Anyway? at Sundowner’s Bar, in the Imperial Queens Park Hotel 02-261-9000. Stephen Frost hosts the two-hour show, improvising on audience suggestions with Steve Steen, Andy Smart and Ian Coppinger. There’s a dinner buffet available (B 900 net) including free flow beer, wine, sparkling wine and soft drinks, from 6 – 9 pm. Show starts at 9 pm. Tickets are B1,800. Visit www.greatbritishpub.com for full details.

8 | M a rch 2012

bangkok101.com

C I T Y P U L S E | M E T R O B E AT

food & Drinks : the speakeasy The latest in Bangkok’s list of al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. The Long Bar – in truth not that long (like all the spaces here, it’s beautifully presented, but cosy in proportion) – sports a narrow wooden communal table, a DJ booth and, on a sliding door, a Hopper-esque mural of a smoky bar scene. It leads upstairs to the open-air roof bar, where lounge furniture on artificial grass offers views across the rooftops. Another door from the Long Bar opens to a plush cigar bar named The Blind Pig, where high-flying gangster Lucky Luciano may have enjoyed picking a smoking jacket from the rack, although historically blind pigs were low class joints unlikely to attract the members-only crowd allowed access here. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. Menus are mini-newspapers complete with cartoons, crossword, and a long international snack menu – none of it great, none of it terrible – that stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices: wagyu burger with fries (B180); eight small Italian sausage balls in sauce (B140); two skewers of Indian spiced lamb kebabs (B160). Spirits (from B 270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B3 00 – B 600 / glass, B1,400 – B 3,400/ bottle; beers from B150, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions. With ‘Minnie the Moocher’ and other period jazz in the air, all you need is a big fat cigar (and a Thompson submachine gun) to complete the scene.

getting there

The Speakeasy [MAP 4 / J 6] Hotel Muse | 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | www.hotelmusebangkok.com 6 pm – 1 am

รร.โฮเทล มิวส์ ซ.หลังสวน

bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 9

CITYPULSE

The New Breed Barely a month passes when we don’t receive an invitation to the opening of some new hotel, be it uber-luxurious or a trendy but cheapie. Sometimes, in our more cynical moments, we wonder where it will all end, but there’s no doubt the end result is more choice and bargains for you. Here are four from the latest crop, some already open for business, others destined to be in the very near future.

Aloft Bangkok [MAP 3 /D 6]

Bangkok Tree House [MAP 2 / G 2]

Open since late last year, the most affordable of this batch of openings is a mid-range (i.e. affordable) city hotel by the Starwood Group. Probably its strongest selling point is its buzzing location perfect for bar hounds: it sits deep inside Sukhumvit Soi 11, the go-to party soi for foreigners, directly opposite one of the clubs at the vanguard of the soi’s rise, Bed Supperclub.

The most pioneering of this selection, the Bangkok Tree House sits on the edge of Samut Prakan province’s Bang Krachao, a peninsula of lush, largely undeveloped land surrounded on three sides by the Chao Phraya River. To get there, guests much catch a boat from a pier located a short drive from Bangna BTS skytrain station. Inspired by Walden, American Henry David Thoreau’s 1854 manual for self-reliance, it’s a riverside tree lodge that aims to be truly at one with nature, featuring twelve three-tiered modern bunglows made with as much natural material as possible, a chemical-free swimming pool and Reflect, a waterfront organic restaurant.

35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-7061 www.alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11

The grey exterior is brightened up with blue neon, and the same applies inside, where vibrant furnishings, tiling, LED lights and more neon lurk round every corner. Rooms are well kitted out with the sorts of extras usually found in serviced apartments: kettles and ironing boards, plus 42” LCD TVs and ipod docking stations. There’s a gym and pool area, and food and drinks venues include vibrant lounge bar W XYZ, where the bartender blends molecular cocktails (review on p.81), and the forthcoming Crave restaurant, where you’ll be able to peruse the menu and order a bottle using an iPad.

Bang Namphueng, Moo 1 | Samut Prakarn district BTS Bang Na | 08-1453-1100 | www.bangkoktreehouse.com

The rustic setting of this eco-masterpiece is matched by a manifesto, or ‘Green Alphabet’ – a staggeringly ambitious list of 26 environmental principles that begins with air-quality control and ends with their zero-waste goal. Almost as impressive is the long list of freebies: free bicycle rental, so you the price Opening rates are B 2,111++ for a Chic room and can explore what many refer to as Bangkok’s Green Lung, free B 2,411++ for an Urban room, and include free wireless interWIFI, free cell-phone rental, and free ice-cream. net and entry to Bed Supperclub (except when big-name international DJs are spinning). the price Until the end of their soft opening (April 31), they’re offering 25% off their published rates: B 6,000 – B 10,000.

10 | M a rch 2012

bangkok101.com

C I T Y P U L S E | the new breed

The Siam [MAP8 /D7]

3/2 Thanon Khao, Vachirapayabal | Dusit district 02-41-8755 | www.thesiamhotel.com It’s not opening until around June but there’s already a buzz about The Siam: an Art Deco inspired, Thai antique strewn urban resort brought to us by the Sukosols, a prominent Thai family as well known for their musical and acting talents as their hotels. Antique enthusiast Khun Noi, the handsome actor and lead singer of rock band Pru, came up with the concept for the 39 room retreat, set on three acres of premium river front in Bangkok’s royal Dusit district. To help him execute it he enlisted the services of architect and landscaper extraordinaire Bill Bensley. Guests will be able to flit from their highceilinged suite or villa done out in turn-of-the-century antiques into opulently landscaped gardens, and a restaurant housed in one of four traditional Thai teakwood houses. Prior to being moved here, these apparently hosted a long list of 20th century greats during diners hosted by their previous owner, socialite Connie Mangskau.

Sofitel So [MAP5 /M7]

2 North Sathorn Rd | Bang Rak district | MRT Lumpini 02-624-0000 | www.sofitel.com The latest Bangkok opening from the aggressively expanding Accor Group (slated opening date: 28 February) has been catching our eye for months now, its high-rise tower made up of a mosaic of glass, zinc and stone cutting a tall, dark and sleek figure on the edge of Lumpini Park. Smith Obayawat, a well known Thai architect and leading figure in the Association of Siamese Architects, designed this shell, while the five-element themed guestrooms, public areas and restaurants are by a who’s who of the local design scene. To name but two of them, Pongthep Sagulku of August Design is behind the dark and mysterious tone of the Water element rooms, while IAW Design’s Vitoon Kunalungkarn chose to pair primeval wall paintings with ravishing blue in the Earth Element rooms. Meanwhile, the five restaurants and bars look set to make waves on the drink and dine scene, not least because of the Manhattan-esque views the hotel has over Lumpini Park’s tree tops, complete with soaring skyscrapers in the distance.

Leisure facilities will include a gym with outdoor terrace, a the price From B 5,100 ++ a night until the end of the high spa with bathhouse, steam room and sauna, and a riverside season (March 31), after which they’ll start from B 4,300++. infinity pool; while a luxury speedboat and Thai barge will offer both quick hops upstream and more leisurely tours along the city’s canals. the price B 16,300 – B 46,000 per night

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M a rch 2012 | 11

KIDS CITYPULSE

Part 1

and THE CITY By Annette Heile

Shopping mall fun Most of Bangkok’s malls are multipurpose: places to hang out, eat, not to mention keep the kids entertained and cool off on sweltering hot afternoons.

Ice skating The Rink | 1st F, CentralWorld (Forum Zone) 02-613-1480; 081-875-1212 www.facebook.com/TheRinkIceSkate 10:30 am – 10 pm | B 250 per round (1:30 hr) The coolest option if you want to burn off their surplus energy. Admission includes rental of skates as well as time out on the ice. Professional coaching is available.

Bangkok’s streets might not be kid-friendly, but its people certainly are, always ready with small but helpful gestures and those big smiles. More importantly, navigating this mega-city with your offspring in tow needn’t always be a frustrating or unrewarding endeavor, as there are plenty of activities for kids that can be tied into your sightseeing schedule. 12 | M a rch 2012

Bowling Blu-O | 5th F, Siam Paragon Rama I Rd | 02-129-4625 www.majorbowlhit.com Bangkok’s state-of-the-art bowling facilities teeter close to being full-on nightclubs, featuring big sound systems and cool lighting that create a fun disco feel. Cinema Paragon Cineplex 5th F, Siam Paragon Rama I Rd | 02-129-4635-6 www.majorcineplex.com/ paragoncineplex Every city has them – but not at these prices. For a lot less than back home, treat them to a screening at an IMAX or 3D theater, or splurge at the Nokia Ultra screen with its bed-like sofa chairs. Drink and popcorn included.

Build-a-bear At the Build-a-Bear Workshop teddy bear lovers of all ages can create their very own fluffy travel companion: choose your cuddly friend, stuff and accessorise him! Central Chidlom 3rd F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd | 02-793-7414 www.buildabear.co.th Central Ladprao 2nd F, 1691 Phahonyothin Rd, Jatujak Central Pinklao 4th F, 7/1 Borom Rachachonnanee Rd, Arun Amarin Water parks Several shopping malls on the outskirts of town have converted their rooftops into family-friendly water-wonderlands featuring slides and whirlpools and fun-rides galore. Leoland 6th F, Central City Bangna Bangna-Trad Rd | 02-725-5000 www.central.co.th | 10 am – 10 pm Fantasia Lagoon 4th F, The Mall Bang Kae Phet Kasem Rd | 02-487-1000 www.themalldepartmentstore.com 10:30am – 10pm 4th F, The Mall Bang Kapi Ladprao Rd | 02-173-1000 www.themalldepartmentstore.com 10:30am – 10pm bangkok101.com

C I T Y P U L S E | K ids and the city

with teens & older kids It’s hard to impress teenagers with palaces and temples. To ward off those tantrums, work something into the schedule that suits their picky tastes.

Karaoke Siam Paragon Rhythm & Bowl 5th Siam Paragon, Rama I Rd | BTS Siam 02-129-4625 | www.majorbowlhit.com It didn’t start here but it’s certainly big here! Almost every shopping mall has a line-up of soundproofed cubicles where aspiring crooners can belt out their favourite hits in the company of friends, most of them attached to cinemas and bowling alleys. Go Karting RCA, New Phetchburi Rd 02-203 0621 | www.easykart.net 1 pm – midnight Easykart is a covered cart track popular with pro’s and amateurs alike. Kids aged 8 and up can play at being Michael Schu macher while you look on and take care of the younger ones at the on-site restaurant. MBK / Terminal 21 / Siam Center Filled with pocket-money friendly items, MBK and Terminal 21 are malls that score big with youngsters. MBK leans towards tech stuff, souvenirs and counterfeit clothes, while Terminal 21 is more oriented towards original clothing and accessories. Fledgling fashionistas will also adore Siam Square and Siam Center. Terminal 21 2,88 Sukhumvit Soi 19 02-108 0888 | www.terminal21.co.th MBK Phaya Thai Rd | 02-620 7777 www.mbk-center.co.th Siam Center Rama I Rd 02-658-1000 | www.siamcenter.co.th bangkok101.com

Beauty Salon Craving some mother-daughter time? A manicure and/or pedicure is a special, yet affordable treat that will put you straight back in your daughter’s good books. Even more so if you throw a haircut or shampoo and blow-dry into the equation. TenTen 593/2 Sukhumvit Rd (2nd F above Olive Restaurant) BTS Phrom Pong | 02-259 3510 Panipa Ekkamai: Ekkamai Soi 19 | 02-392-6218 Sukhumvit: 8th F, Westin Grande Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok 02-254-4310 | www.panipa.com

Animal adventures Anything with animals is usually a big hit with kids. Use it as a drawcard when planning your day out in Bangkok and mix it with adult fun. Hit Dusit Zoo then nearby Vimanmek Palace, for example, or combine shopping at the Jatujak Weekend Market or Siam Paragon with some wildlife spotting.

Dusit Zoo Rama V Rd, Chitralada 02-281-2000 | www.zoothailand.org 8 am – 6 pm | B100 adults / B 50 kids Dusit Zoo is a city zoo – space is limited and so is the number of animals. However, add a big lake with pedal boats, a picturesque restaurant and merry-go-rounds, and you have all you need for an entertaining afternoon in leafy surroundings. Siam Ocean World B1 F, Siam Paragon | Rama I Rd 02-687-2000 | www.siamoceanworld.co.th 10 am – 9 pm | B 900 / B 700 kids 80 – 120 cm / B 3,500 all inclusive family package / discounts for online bookings and Thai residents It’s a world-class aquarium (expensive, though) with heaps of activities to keep you entertained throughout your visit. Go for the all-inclusive ticket and ride the glass bottom boat, feed the fish and watch the 5D, yes 5D, movie!

Snake Farm Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute 1871 Rama IV Rd | 02-252 0161 | Mon – Fri 9:30 am – 4 pm; Sat – Sun 9:30 am – noon | B 200 / B 50 kids Actually a serious research institute developing antidotes against snake venom, the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute is also open to visitors. Demonstrations are at 11 am daily and 2:30 pm on weekdays. Chatuchak Market Animal Section (Section 8, 9, 11, 13) | Phaholyothin Rd Among the many goods for sale at the weekend market are all kinds of animals: from baby rabbits and fluffy kittens to rare and protected species. An interesting diversion from the main market, but prepare to be pestered (and tempted) to buy a Chihuahua. Bangkok Butterfly Garden Suan Rot Fai, Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, 02-272-4359 | Tue – Sun & Holidays 8.30 am – 4.30 pm | free Within the sprawling grounds of lovely Suan Rot Fai Park sits this dome-enclosed sanctuary for more than 500 species of butterflies. Watch them flutter around freely while you stroll around a landscaped garden with benches, ponds and waterfalls Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo Petkasem Rd. km 30 | Samphran Nakhon Pathom province 02-295 2938 | www.elephantshow.com 8.30 am – 5.30 pm The one animal every kid has to see on a trip to Thailand is an elephant. Head to Samphran to catch the elephant show and ride on the back of one of the great pachyderms. There are crocodiles and tigers, too! M a rch 2012 | 13

CITYPULSE

daytrips around BKK If you want to leave the city behind for a day, there are plenty of options that make for a fun family day out, from theme parks to open-air museums.

Indoor playgrounds If the kids need to let off some steam, and you’re reaching boiling point, head for one of our air-conditioned indoor playgrounds. Be it in a shopping mall or a standalone venue, most require the kids to wear socks – bring your own or buy on-site.

Funarium 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-665 6555 | www.funarium.co.th 8:30 am –8:30 pm B 90 /B180 / B 300 depending on child's height; 3 hrs time-limit on weekends, 40 B / h thereafter) 2,000m² of indoor slides, ball pits, rollerskating and bicycle tracks. There’s also a toddler area, arts and crafts rooms, private party rooms, a parent lounge and a dining area. Free wifi! Playtime 3rd / 4th F, Park Lane Shopping Center 18 Sukhumvit 63 (Ekkamai Rd.) 02-382-0077 | www.playtime.co.th Mon – Thu 8.30 am – 7 pm; Fri – Sun 8:30 am – 8 pm B 90 / B180 kids / B 300 big kids Playtime is smaller than Funarium but better suited to toddlers and pre-school kids, featuring safe slides, climbing areas and colourfully themed areas (space ship, dinosaurs, etc). Jamboree Land 3rd F, Emporium BTS Phrom Phong | 02-269-1000 www.emporiumthailand.com An indoor play area at Emporium mall, tucked just behind the sports department on the third floor. Includes a padded play area, a small arts and crafts section, some games and a café selling snacks. Central Department Store The small padded play area with ball pits and tunnels is located conveniently right behind the children’s clothing and toy departments. Breastfeeding room and diaper changing rooms are on the same floor. Central Chidlom 5th F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd | 02-793-7414 www.central.co.th 14 | M a rch 2012

Fun in the Park A green city this it not – but Bangkokians do make the most of the little they have! Well-kept greens ranging from small to big are spread out over the city and offer a wide range of activities. A tip: avoid going at midday, when the sun is high and the sand-pit and slides scorching hot!

Cycling Suan Rot Fai and Benjakitti Parks have bicycle lanes and bicycles in different sizes available for rent. Prices start at B20. Boats Put the pedal to the metal with a beautiful swan-shaped pedal boat, available for rent at Benjakitti and Lumpini Parks. Playgrounds All of the mentioned parks feature playgrounds – the one at Benjasiri park recently got a complete overhaul! Other sports Benjasiri Park has basketball courts and a half-pipe; Lumpini a public swimming pool (bring a passport for registration); and Suan Rot Fai has basketball and tennis courts, and football fields. Lumpini Park Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd. 5am – 9pm / 10 am – 3 pm cycling , skating Benjasiri Park Sukhumvit Rd, between Sois 22 and 24 next to Emporium mall | 5am – 9pm

Dream World km 7 on Rangsit-Nakhon Nayok Rd. Patumthani district | 02-533-1152 www.dreamworld-th.com Mon – Fri 10 am – 5 pm; Sat – Sun 10 am – 7 pm B1,000 package deal incl. free transport from and to your hotel, unlimited rides, entry to Snowtown and buffet lunch It’s no Disneyland, but it has got fun rides, a 4D movie worth watching, a lot of space to run and play, and Snow Town, the indoor sleigh-riding hall that offers Arctic temperatures and a break from the sun. Siam Park City 230 Suan Siam Rd. | Kannayao distict 02-919 7200 | www.siamparkcity.com 10 am – 6 pm | B 900 day passes incl. unlimited rides /B 300 / B100 kids / cheaper for separate sections of the park A theme park and water park in one, Siam Park City (or “Suan Siam” in Thai) has many (questionable?) claims to fame, including the world’s biggest wave pool. Safari World 99 Panyaintra Rd. | Klongsamwa district 02-914-4100-19 | www.safariworld.com 9 am – 5 pm | B 900 / 600 kids There are two sections: a Safari Park where you can watch lions, giraffes and the likes roam freely from the safety of a tour vehicle, and a Marine Park where you get to roam freely and watch sea creatures perform. Ancient City (Muang Boran) 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd | Samut Prakan 02-709-1644-8 | www.ancientcity.com 8 am – 5 pm | B400 / B 200 kids tram/bicycle rental Tour Thailand in a day at this lush, replicafilled museum park. All the Kingdom’s most famous palaces, temples and examples of traditional architecture are easily visited via its hop-on-hop-off trams or rented bicycles.

Benjakitti Park Ratchadaphisek Rd. | 9 am – 5 pm Suan Rot Fai (Railway Park) Phaholyothin Rd., next to Jatujak Park | 4.30 am – 9 pm

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CITYPULSE

Photos by Philip Cornwel-Smith

Very Thai

Yaa Dong – Herbal drugs, alcohol and sex – in a bottle Thailand’s traditional healing boom has seen Siamese herbs migrate into creams, scrubs, teas, oils and wraps. Yet perhaps their most effective agent rarely appears on the spa menu: alcohol.

Very Thai River Books | with photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995 Very Thai – Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any good book shop.

16 | M a rch 2012

Yaa dong lao (alcohol-pickled medicine; yaa dong for short) still gets supped from discreet stalls. Most offer at least four large jars of different recipes, each stoppered with red cloth. The tonic’s hue – from amber to russet to oxblood – depends on the stalks, tubers and woodchips inside. It tastes best taken with a chaser of sweet-yet-astringent fruit like star gooseberry or tamarind. The mystery adds to the allure. Variants of the tonic allegedly enhance appetite, enrich blood, salve aches, reduce fatigue, cure insomnia, restore digestion, nurture clear speech, balance ‘wind energy’, or prolong youth. Workers knock back a shot of this Thai toddy for 20 baht. Like an early Red Bull, yaa dong boosts energy, hence brew names like 7-Layer Wall, Rama Goes to War or Tribesman Carrying Buffalo. Others imply animal prowess by their name: Towering Dragon, Tiger Force, Male Elephant Power. But the most potent claims are aphrodisiac: Moaning Mistress, Never Flaccid, Old Man Rapes Elephant. Collectively dubbed yaa dope (dope medicine), virility boosters often contain traces of auspicious animal: bear paw, deer antler, rhino horn, tiger penis. Venomous centipedes, scorpions or coiled snake counter poison with poison. Some folk prefer a fresh infusion, such as live gecko or a glass of cobra blood and gall from a disembowelled snake. bangkok101.com

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CITYPULSE

25 March 1958

Life sentence for child killer

See Ooi convicted of killing boy and eating his organs

Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450 Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. 18 | M a rch 2012

See Ooi Sae Eung was sentenced to death for killing a young boy, but his sentence was commuted to life imprisonment because he confessed. On 29 January, See Ooi murdered 8-year-old Somboon Boonyakan, cut his victim’s body with a knife, and extracted the boy’s heart and liver ‘with the objective of eating them’, the Rayong Provincial Court heard. See Ooi had lured the boy to a rubber plantation, ostensibly to hunt birds, a public prosecutor said. That same night, the boy’s father and some villagers found See Ooi trying to burn the boy’s body, and recovered the killer’s bloody knife. See Ooi told police he also committed two similar murders, in Bangkok and Nakhon Phathom. See Ooi, who was Chinese and living in Thailand with an expired alien residence permit, told the court ‘it is necessary’ to eat the child’s heart once a year during the Chinese New Year. Villagers in Rayong, meanwhile, began using the name ‘See Ooi’ to scare children into behaving, threatening that if they were naughty then ‘See Ooi’ would eat their organs, a tradition that continued for decades. See Ooi’s corpse was embalmed and became a tourist attraction at the Forensics Museum at Siriraj Hospital. bangkok101.com

by Amornsri Tresarannukul SITTING BUDDHA STATUES at Wat Mahathat's Phra Rabieng

Temple of the Great Relic WAT MAHATHAT By A nnet t e heil e

sightseeing FOCUS: Wat mahathat White is the dominant colour at Wat Mahathat, a welcome contrast to the colourful splendour of the nearby Grand Palace and one of the few temples in the Old City where worshippers still outnumber tourists. Like many it’s said to house a Buddha relic (it’s actually known as the Temple of the Great Relic), but more intriguingly for foreigners Wat Mahathat is a great place to glimpse Thai beliefs and spirituality, as it serves as the headquarters of the Mahanikai school of Buddhism and is also home to a well known centre of Buddhist meditation. Also, just outside it, a sprawling daily amulet market does a brisk trade. It was built during the Ayutthaya period, before the Rattanakosin area, where it is located, became the capital of Old Siam. Originally named Wat Salak it has undergone numerous name changes and renovations over the years – the latest being a renovation of the central viharn building where the main Buddha image is enshrined (this was still under way on our recent visit). In Thailand’s strict hierarchy of wats, this is one of the most revered, belonging to the category of first class royal temples. Important royal ceremonies and funerals took place here, and its site houses the oldest theological university for Buddhist monks in Thailand, the unutterably named Maha Chulalongkorn Rajavidyalaya University. A shady arcade along the walls enclosing the temple compound houses hundreds of Golden Buddha images. Peace and serenity prevail, even the construction work being no more than a distant noise. In the corner of the compound, the walkway opens up to a quiet white courtyard that houses a pagoda. Right behind it are the two almost identical main ceremonial halls, the ubosot and viharn buildings sitting side by side. The temple complex extends further into an array of alleys and smaller buildings that serve as the living quarters of the up to 200 monks who live here. Don’t feel like you’re intruding – you are most welcome, as this is where the International Meditation Center teaches Thai and Foreign visitors alike in vippassana (insight) meditation.

Sightseeing

Wat Mahathat [MAP 7 /C 8] Tha Prachan, Maharat Rd | Phra Nakorn district 02-221-5999 | 9 am – 5 pm | admission free International Meditation Center and Retreat Wat Mahathat (Section 5) | Maharat Rd | 02-222-6011 Contact: venerable Phra Suputh Kosalo Meditation Class Walk-in meditation classes are available three times a day Morning session: 7 – 10 am; Midday session: 1 – 4 pm; Evening session: 6 – 8 pm

Roughly 800 to 900 visitors opt to stay at the Meditation Study and Retreat Center each year. “Insight meditation can be practiced by anyone,” explains the venerable Phra Suputh Kosalo, a senior monk and meditation instructor who has over the past thirteen years introduced many an inquisitive soul to the practices of meditation and the teachings of Lord Buddha. A stay at the meditation retreat is recommended for those who have practiced meditation before. However, if meditation is new territory for you, following the strict all day routine might be a challenge. Instead, consider attending one of more of the open daily meditation classes first. Less intense, these sessions take place three times a day, in the morning, midday and evening. Drop in for any of these and monks will instruct you in the basic principles of sitting and walking meditation. Adjacent to the temple grounds, stretching along Tha Phrachan Road, is one of Bangkok’s most famous markets for amulets – much loved for their powers to protect the wearer from mishap and mischief (and ranging in price from B20 to tens of thousands). It’s well worth a little stroll down the road to gaze at these and other good luck charms, for people-watching or to pick up some unique souvenirs. 22 | M a rch 2012

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Sightseeing

historic homes

Shrines

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5 / H 8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 5 pm, ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Mon – Fri by appt. only | B 50 / B 20 kids Throne Hall [map 8 / F 8] Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostUthong Nai Rd, opp. Dusit Zoo loved statesmen of the 20 th century. A natural Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | B150 all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and dress politely even served as prime minister. His peaceful Located at the tail-end of Dusit district's abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam example of traditional Thai architecture. noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and com- บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ pleted by Rama VI . Cast in white Carrara ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้ marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V mounted on a horse that is still worshipped today. พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม ถ.อู่ทองใน ดุสิต

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4 / A 3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 www.jimthompsonhouse.com 9 am – 5 pm | B100 / B 50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia's Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them, and brimful with art and antiques he acquired during his many trips around Asia. Tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café. Ban Krua, the silk-weaving community he commissioned, is also nearby. บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

24 | M a rch 2012

VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8 / F 8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd 02-281-1569 | 9:30 am – 4 pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Regular tours in English are held daily. พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสิต

SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP8 / K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 www.suanpakkad.com | 9 am – 4 pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.

ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4 / G 5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ

GANESHA SHRINE [map 4 / G 3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite. พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน

TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4 / G 3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน

วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี bangkok101.com

sightseeing | temples

TEMPLES

WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7 / D 12] Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com THE GRAND PALACE & 8am – noon; 1 pm – 9 pm | B100 WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7 / D 10] The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 Originating in the 16 th century, it houses the 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | B 400 incl. entry to largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully as well as the greatest number of Buddha Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditop tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city tional Thai medicine and a learning centre sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly for Thai massage (see p.101). crenulated whitewalls. Building began in วั 1782 , the year Bangkok was founded, and ดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the "Westerner in a Thai hat" – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors. The highlight, though, is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the temple purpose-built to WAT MAHATHAT [map 7 / C 8] house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9 am – 5 pm | free pay their respects each day. An amulet market is situated near this 18 th พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแก้ว century centre of the Mahanikai monasถ.หน้าพระลาน (ใกล้สนามหลวง) tic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism are given in English. วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง WAT ARUN [map 7 / B 13] Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd Arun Pier | 02-465-5640 www.watarun.org | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at sundown. วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำ�เจ้าพระยา

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WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7 / K 8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9 am – 5 pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multi-tiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT SAKET [map 7 / L 8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30 am – 5:30 pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of China town to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top. วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7 / H 9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9 am – 5 pm | B 20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city's iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front. วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำ�รุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT TRAIMIT [map 6 / L 3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-6231226 | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over 10 million US$ . The interesting Yaowarat Heritage Museum (p.27) is located on the floor beneath. วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำ�โพง (เยาวราช) M a rch 2012 | 25

Sightseeing

BANGKOKian museum

Museums – in town There’s a museum for every interest here – hundreds in fact. Here, some of our favourites, both in town and just outside it.

BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8 / L 11, 12]

madame tussauds

Madame tussauds [map 4 / C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Center Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 www.madametussauds.com/Bangkok/ 10 am – 9 pm | B 800 / B 600 kids / 15 % discount for online Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women, famous monks, poets and statesmen. And once you’ve finished talking human rights with Aung San Suu Kyi, or admiring Angelina Jolie’s Khmer tattoo, there are lots of interactive games to stave off waxwork-fatigue too.

85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng), Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | www.bangkokdolls.com Mon – Sat 8 am – 5 pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in มาดามทุซโซ สยามดิสคัฟเวอรี่ ชั้น 6 traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT illustrations from antique books. GOODS [MAP 2 / E 12] 26th F, Supalai Grand Tower Bldg บ้านตุ๊กตาบางกอกดอลล์ ถ.ราชปรารภ Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 www.tillekeandgibbins.com bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5 / E 3] Mon – Fri 10 am – 4 pm / App. required 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, for textile and computer collections Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law Sat & Sun 10 am – 4 pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert most traditional districts of the city, find their evidence of counterfeit goods into this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, educational tools for law students. To help one of them lovingly converted into a pri- spread the word about the perils of buying vate museum by the compound’s charm- fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates ing owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. items She decided to dedicate the place to the to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari memory of her family and bygone daily motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to next to the originals. While its well off-thethe public. While visitors shouldn’t expect beaten track location means it doesn't see breathtaking revelations here, the displays too many drop-in visitors, it's an eye-openare nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. ing experience, one that would make even They include antiques, traditional house- the thriftiest market-goer think twice. hold utensils and ceremonial items. พิพิธภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก ถ.เจริญกรุง 43

26 | M a rch 2012

พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3

museum of siam

Museum of Siam [map 7 / D 13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and dreary text with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20 th century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon (a bit tasteless that one), and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance-stylings of the building itself, which was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno. พิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้แ้ห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7 / C 6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum.com Wed – Sun 9 am – 4 pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed. Free tours by the Natonal Museum Volunteers group are given in English, French, German and Japanese and take place on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30 am. พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ท้องสนามหลวง

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sightseeing | M useums

SIRIRAJ MEDICAL MUSEUM [map 7 / A 7] RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7 / K 7] Siriraj Hospital | 2 Prannok Rd 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, Thonburi Railway Pier next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 02-419-7000-6363 | www.si.mahidol.ac.th www.nitasrattanakosin.com Mon – Sat 9 am – 4 pm | B 40 Tue – Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Located on the west bank of the river, in Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 8 pm | B100 Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious hosThis multimedia museum a short walk pital, the Siriraj Medical Museum is chiefly from Khao San Road offers a skillfully an educational facility where trainee mediabbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: cal students come to take notes and harden Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering their stomachs. However, fans of the macabirthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – bre can also pay a visit. Of its many chilling free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, displays, far and away the most famous is interactive videos, text and audio clips in the crisped cadaver of Si Ouey, Thailand’s Thai and English – brings the area’s hard- notorious child killer, stood in a phone to-fathom history, arts, communities, archi- booth. Other stomach-churning exhibits tecture and traditions into much clearer include the mummified remains of murfocus. One highlight is the room showcasing der victims, and deformed human foetuses Thai performing arts; another sheds light embalmed in formaldehyde. Best come on the trade specialities of local shop- before lunch, just to err on the safe side. house communities. Up on the fourth floor there's also an observation balcony from พิพิธภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศิริราช ถ.พรานนก which you can peer out over the area you YAOWARAT CHINATOWN now have a more in-depth grasp of. HERITAGE CENTRE [map 6 / L 3] นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง Wat Traimit, 661 Mittaphap ThaiChina Rd, Charoen Krung Rd |MRT ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7 / B 4] Hua Lamphong | 02-225-9775 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, |Tue – Sun 8 am – 4:30 pm | B100 / B140 Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier incl. visit to the Golden Buddha 02-424-0004 | 9 am – 5:00 pm For Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese the story of B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some how their forefathers fled here on leaking of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed junk ships and rose to become an affluent on the Thonburi side of the river in a series and fully integrated force in Thai society is of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. likely familiar, having been drip-fed to them The barges are best seen in action during over the years by their elders. But for the rare ceremonial processions on the Chao rest of us, the Chinatown Heritage Centre Phraya where the colourful crews can num- is the next best thing, presenting an engagber up to 64, including rowers, umbrella ing history of Bangkok’s Chinese commuholders, navigators and various musicians. nity and their bustling focal point, Yaowarat. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these Highlights include recreations of a magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former leaking junk ship and bustling street market, glory by the present King, who also com- a miniature model of Yaowarat during its missioned the newest boat for his golden Golden Age, and a room commemorating the community’s high-achievers. It's located jubilee in 1996 . within Wat Traimit temple (p.25). พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์ ศูนย์ประวัติศาสตร์เยาวราช ถ.มิตรภาพไทย-จีน

Royal Barge Museum bangkok101.com

yaowarat heritage centre

out of town ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1 / F 6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 www.ancientcity.com B 400 / B 200 kids / B1,500 private guide in English for 2 hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing. Teakwood, stone and brick abound; everything looks authentically aged; and amidst the scaled-down and life-size copies are lots of salvaged original buildings. เมืองโบราณ จ.สมุทรปราการ THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1 / E 5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province www.nfat.org | 02-482-2013-15 Sat & Sun tours: 10 am, noon, 3 pm; Mon – Fri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meager film heritage, be it by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum – for free. Thai film fiends will love inching around this nook-filled two-storey space modeled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, projectors, props, costumes, posters and waxworks. Guides only speak Thai, so take a translator if possible. พิพิธภัณฑ์ภาพยนตร์ไทย ถ.พุทธมนฑล สาย 5

ANCIENT SIAM M a rch 2012 | 27

Sightseeing

parks – Flora LUMPINI PARK [map 8 / K,L 16] Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd 5 am – 9 pm; cycling / skating 10 am – 3 pm free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass sewn together with wide, meandering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season. There are entrances on each of its four sides, all of them open till 9pm, but the most impressive is the one at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, where a grand statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel.

bang krachao

Benjasiri park [map 3 / L 7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Pong | 5am-9pm Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures. สวนเบญจสิริ อยู่ระหว่าง สุขุมวิท ซ.22 – ซ.24 JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS [map 8 / M, N 1, 2] 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao 02-272-4358 | 5 am – 6:30 pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a botanical garden. สวนจตุจักรและสวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ถ.พหลโยธิน จตุจักร

บางกระเจ้า พระประแดง

28 | M a rch 2012

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK [MAP 2 / K11] Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center Pravet | 02-328-1972 | 5:30am – 7 pm | B10 Bangkok's biggest park spans 200 -acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังพาราไดส์ พาร์ค) ประเวศ Suan Rod Fai [map 8 / M, n 1] Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd | BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 02-537-9221 5 am – 9 pm | free Also just north of JJ Market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden. Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we recommend you copy them. สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร 3 จตุจักร

Sarasin

6 Radio Station

Lumpini Head Office

5 Glas House

Raja

dam

สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ BANG KRACHAO [map 1 / E 5] Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan | 02-461-097 6 am – 8 pm | Free It’s hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included within it is the 200 -rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for B30 . Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down to the Bang Nam Pueng Floating Market.

Rama IX Royal Park

Food Court

Elderly Center

k 7.56

Playground

Yaovarach Pavillon

Lumpini School

Youth Center

Aerobic Octagon Pavillon

Lumpini Park

Lanna Thai Pavillon Library

Witthayu

lumpini park

Entertainment Building Lily Pond

4 Rama VI Statue

Silom

Thailand China Friendship Pavillon Lumpini Youth Center

Lumpini Hall Chinese Pavillon

Indoor Stadium

Ram

a IV

Bodybuilding 3

Playground Clock Tower

20o ft 100 m

Lumphini

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sightseeing | P arks & S ports

ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (Suan Sampram) [map 1 / D5] 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom Province | 03-432- 2544 www.rosegardenriverside.com 10 am – 4 pm | Garden B 50, Show B 500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf course, spa, organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens. โรสการ์เด้น ริเวอร์ไซด์ สวนสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม

DUSIT ZOO [map 8 / F 8] 71 Rama V Rd, opposite Chitralada Palace 02-281-2000 | 8 am – 6 pm | B100 / B 50 kids The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. There’s also a lake with paddle boats, and playgrounds that the kids can run wild in. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (SNAKE FARM) [map 5 / K 4] 1871 Rama IV Rd, Henri Dunant BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom | 02-25201614-120 | Mon – Fri 8:30 am – 4 pm, Sat & Sun 9:30 am – 12 pm (shows at 11am & 2:30 pm) | B 200 Mainly developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is open to the public. There’s an informative slide show followed by displays of live venom extraction.

SARANROM PARK [map 7 / E 11] Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd Phra Nakhon | 5 am – 8 pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featur- สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 ing a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion. สภากาชาดไทย สวนสราญรมย์ แยกราชินี ถ.เจริญกรุง SAMPHRAN ELEPHANT GROUND & ZOO [map 1 / D 5] Petkasem Rd km 30, Samphan parks – Fauna Nakhon Pathom Province | 02-295-2938 | www.elephantshow.com 8:30 am – 5:30 pm | B 600/ B 350 kids BANGKOK BUTTERFLY GARDEN & Apart from The Elephant Theme Show, insectarium [map 8 / M2] watch the Crocodile Wrestling Show or Suan Rot Fai Park | Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd ride on an elephant’s back through the BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park tropical gardens and waterfalls. 02- 272-4359 | Tue – Sun & Holidays ลานแสดงช้างและฟาร์มจระเข้สามพราน 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | free This dome-enclosed sanctuary not from ถ.เพชรเกษม สามพราน JJ Market houses over 500 species of butterflies fluttering freely in the mazes of the SIAM OCEAN WORLD [map 4 / D4] landscaped gardens, with their wild flowers, BI F, Siam Paragon | 991 Rama 1 Rd canopied benches, ponds and waterfalls. 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld.com Besides butterfly watching, visitors can 10 am – 7 pm | B 900 / 700 kids picnic or rent a bicycle for around B 30. It's One of Asia's biggest aquariums. If you're located within Suan Rot Fai Park, a great not put off by the dual-pricing policy (we big park with open spaces as well as lotus are, quite frankly), there’s fun to be had ponds, playgrounds, and basketball and ten- inside, with 8 m high tanks, glass tunnels to nis courts. walk through, and shark-feeding shows. อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร จตุจักร

Dusit zoo bangkok101.com

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

Samphran Elephant Ground

muay thai Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. Another sore point (albeit a figurative rather than literal one) that puts off some: the price to watch a fight for foreigners is five or six times what the locals pay. Lumpini boxinG Stadium Rama IV Rd | MRT Lumphini 02-251-4303; 02-252-8765 Fights Tue & Fri 6:30 pm – 10:30 pm; Sat 5 pm – 8 pm; 8:30 pm – midnight B1,000 / B1,500 / B 2,000 สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue 02-281-4205; 02-280-1684-6 Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30 pm – 11 pm, Sun 5 pm – 8 pm; 8:30 pm – midnight B1,000 / B1,500 / B 2,000 เวทีมวยราชดำ�เนิน ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน

Siam Ocean World M a rch 2012 | 29

A Roaring Tiger at Wat Bang Phra

March 3

tattoo mayhem at wat bang phra by Dave Stamboulis

upcountry now: tattoo festival Perhaps the most bizarre – and certainly the wildest – upcountry festival on the calendar this month is the Wat Bang Phra tattoo festival. This will be held on March 3 at a rural temple in Nakhorn Chaisri district, some 40 kilometres from Bangkok, famed for its previous abbot, who specialised in giving and activating sak yant, talismanic tattoos which are said to protect the wearer from harm and bestow good luck. Luang Phor Pern died several years ago, but Wat Bang Phra continues on his traditions, climaxed by this annual temple fair held every March. Young men make up a majority of the blessed, especially those who are involved in dangerous occupations, such as drivers, labourers and those with links to the mafia, as the tattoos are supposed to work very strong charms once activated, not to mention offer a relatively inexpensive form of insurance. To say that the crowd is somewhat akin to a heavy metal rock show attended by a bunch of parolees might not be too far from the truth. In the early morning hours, the faithful sit cross legged on mats in front of a platform which has a large statue of Luang Phor Pern. According to tradition, once the tattooed start going into trances, their tattoos “wake up,” and begin calling to their monks up on the stage. The men then begin to act like the tattoos depicted on their backs and chests. Lizards crawl on their bellies, hermits inch along like old men, birds flap their wings and screech, and then there are the tigers the wat is most famed for, who growl, roar, and eventually charge in a frenzy towards the stage. Security bruisers grab the entranced as they rush forward, and pat their ears to help calm them down. At the end, the faithful climb aboard buses home, convinced that they are safe and that their tigers are back in their cages for another year. * For the best of the rest of the Kingdom’s many upcountry festivals, see overleaf.

A twin tiger yan (Dan White for 'Sacred Tattoos of Thailand’)

t rav e l

Upcountry now!

Throughout March 1st International Samui Fine Dining Festival

Abounding in first class restaurants, Koh Samui has evolved into one of Southeast Asia’s most prestigious dining desti nations in recent years. This new festival is a chance for the foodies among you to sample sixteen of the best of them, as through March each one will be serving a special 7-course menu. In addition, there will be five gala dinners and one gourmet brunch. See www.samuifinediningfestival.com for the restaurant and chef line-up, menus and booking info.

Throughout March Pattaya Rooftop Film Fest 2012

To honour the 150 th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Thailand and Germany, the dusitD2 Baraquda hotel in Pattaya has teamed up with the Goethe-Institut to offer visitors a different kind of entertainment to the kind the city is notorious for. Each Friday evening through March a different contemporary German film will be screened on the spacious open-air rooftop of the hotel. Admission is free and all films will be shown with English subtitles. dusitd2pattaya.dusit.com, www.goethe.de

Throughout March In Bloom

Up in the lush hills of the North’s Nan province, the pink blossoms of the Chompoo Phu Kha – one of the world’s rarest plants – are in full bloom until the end of March. They grow wild, along with several other notable species, in Doi Phu Kha National Park, which is in the provincial sub-district of Pua.

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3 – 7 March Makha Bucha Hae Phra Khuen That Festival

Unique to the southern province of Nakhon Si Thammarat, this annual Buddhist ritual entails draping holy cloth, known as phra bot, around a stupa located within the grounds of the town’s Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan temple. A form of communal merit-making designed to strengthen community spirit, the custom forms part of Makha Bucha celebrations (an important Buddhist festival and public holiday that falls on the full moon of the third lunar month) and has allegedly been in practice for some 800 years. TAT Nakhon Si Thammarat office: 07-534-6515

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travel | upcountry now

March 13 National Thai Elephant Day

Thailand’s national icon is so beloved that they even get their own day. To mark the occasion elephant camps across the land will give their resident jumbos a big feed, but the most unusual celebration this year will be at the Four Seasons’ Tented Camp, up in Chiang Rai’s Golden Triangle region. As well as stay in tented high-luxury, the bucolic resort is offering guests a three-night package (March 11 – 13) that includes the chance to learn the basics of elephant polo and take part in a real live tournament. Rates start at B 79,000 per tent per night and include lavish extras. reservations.thailand@fourseasons.com, 02-650-2650

March 15 – 17 8th World Thai Martial Arts Festival

Over 300 Muay Thai boxers from 30 countries will flock to the ancient capital, Ayutthaya, to pay respect to their masters and Muay Thai folk hero, Nai Khanom Tom. More importantly, you’ll be able to watch them pummel each other in their quest to win cash prizes and a belt, not to mention learn about the history and techniques of this ancient combat sport. The location: the Nai Khanom Tom Monument, at the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Stadium.

Until March 18 Harvest Festival 2012

The grapes are ripe for picking at Monsoon Valley’s Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, and to mark the occasion they’re laying on a host of harvest activities each weekend until March 18. You’ll be able to help relieve the vines of their swollen bounty, stomp them in the traditional manner and keep the pictures as a souvenir. There’ll also be live music, delicacies and a special harvest set dinner on March 17 (B2,012 net per person, wines included). To reserve a table call 08170-18874 or visit www.huahinhillsvineyard.com

March 23 – April 3 Korat’s Thao Suranaree Festival

March 29 – April 1

Up in Korat, the gateway to the northeast, twelve days of parades and performances in the provincial city of the same name will mark the memory of Thao Suranaree, the wife of a local deputy governor who became an unlikely folk hero when she rallied citizens against Laotian invaders back in the early 1800s. The festivities will unfold around her statue.

Phuket International Boat Show

Billing itself as “Asia’s largest in-water boat show,” this annual marine industry showcase is the place to head if you own a luxury boat or are in the market for one. For its four-day duration, Phuket Island’s Royal Phuket Marina will be brimming with exhibitors showing off the latest and greatest yachts and bourgeois sorts swanning about on them. www.phuketboatshow.com bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 33

The Wonders of wat gate

Thai artisans, European architecture and great eateries abound in Chiang Mai’s old foreign quarter.

For most tourists up in Chiang Mai, the eastern bank of the city’s Mae Ping River is little more than a good spot for a riverside dinner or to catch some rollicking live music, but delve deeper and the area has an interesting tale to tell.

and with their original Lanna and European-style features – slatted shutters, fretted balustrades and sunshades – intact (the Association of Siamese Architects gave a nod to the community, awarding it a prize for conservation, back in 2000).

Back in the late 19th century it was here that British teak wallahs, sent to mine the Kingdom’s huge forest reserves by the East Borneo Company, built their homes. History has it this came about after King Chulalongkorn, after signing an 1883 treaty that gave them permission to fell logs here, decreed that they should be housed away from the ‘Siamese’, on the other side of the river along with other foreigners. Not in a position to object, the British complied, building a smattering of handsome teakwood houses in the vicinity of an august old temple, Wat Gate Karem. Miraculously the majority of these still stand today,

Admiring their facades as you mosey along narrow Charoenrat Road is a must for any lover of old-world heritage, especially as a Sikh mosque and a musty but excellent temple museum are just two of the surprises you’re likely to encounter on the way. However, with many of these beautifully kept old shophouses and mansions today housing high-end arts and crafts boutiques, galleries, restaurants and lodgings, pretty much anyone has something to gain by exploring this historic melting pot. Keep it to yourself, but Wat Gate is our favourite old quarter in our second favourite city.

137 PillarS House

travel | U pcountry E scapes

Upcountry escape by Max Crosbie-Jones

Baan hok Sao

see Wat Gate Karem [1] , the Buddhist temple around which the community is centered, and from which it gets its nickname, is where all forays into the area should start. Built in the 15th century, the complex houses a distinctive ubosot (ordination hall) and chedi (spire) worshipped by those born in the year of the dog. And yet, its most interesting feature is the attic-like museum housed in a weathered old teak shed in the north of the complex.

Donated by locals over the years, the eclectic artifacts ranging from ancient farm tools and pottery to sepia photographs, Buddhist palm-leaf fans, opium scales and gramophones form a pitted history of the area. Entry is free, though we recommend making a donation towards its upkeep. Other multi-cultural points of interest in the area include a century old Sikh temple, built by Punjab immigrants who made their living here by selling fabrics.

"Wat Gate is our favourite old quarter in our second favourite city."

their home in high-end Northern-style items could do a lot worse than Kome Tome [9] , where Thai architect-designer Rattanaphol Taja turns out ikat printed pottery and Thai paper lanterns. Other storehouses of beguiling Lanna treasures include Oriental Style [10] and Vila Cini [11] , both located in Baan Hok Sao, an historic six pillar teakwood house. eat Most visitors who venture across the river in search of dinner, end up at a pleasant, but touristy, riverside joint, such as The Gallery [12] and The Riverside [13] . But during the daytime at least, we prefer chilling out in rustic hidden spots like Regina Café [14] , a rickety red teakwood house covered with vintage photographs and with a garden that backs on to the river. The cakes are good, ditto the coffee, and there are cute wooden knick knacks for sale if the mood takes you.

Nearby, a more elegant riverside option, Vieng Joom On Teahouse [15] , serves a good range of green and Chinese teas, while recent addition The Meeting Room and Café [16] , offers a creative pitstop in a lovely teak villa: artistic discourse with the owner’s Joe and Fon and books to browse as well as cups of northern joe.

shop Starting at its north end, one of the most celebrated galleries in town, La Luna [2] , offers you a dose of contemporary art in the shape of canvases and sculptures by artists such as Kamol Tamseewan. More canvases or photographs for your walls can also be found at galleries such as Lan La Away from the river, within the grounds of 137 Pillars House, Moon [2] and Suvannabhumi [4] . Hinlay Curry House [17] is owned by the offspring of the wellIf you’re looking to pick up some teak collectables and furni- known Bain family and specialises in one thing only – curry. ture, especially antiques, head down the leafy drive that leads The choices are comprehensive (from Burmese hinlay pork to Tanita House [5] – a multi-roomed feast of Lanna loveliness. curry to Thai beef massaman and pumpkin curry) and the A short way down, Colour Factory [6] is a good place to pick prices very reasonable. up some gifts for friends back home – fiberglass elephants Head left from here, onto Kaeo Nawarat Soi 2, and you’ll painted in lurid colours, handbags – especially as some of stumble across two more decent options: Green O’Clock [18] , a your baht go to a good cause, the Asian Elephant Foundation. lush café with an extensive menu, from thick American style Moving onwards you’ll find other Lannaphile locales like sandwiches to classic indigenous dishes; and a few doors Nussara [7] and Sop Moei [8] , both of whom specialise primar- down, Kitchen Hush [19] , Japanese chef Kenji Fujita’s sushi ily in naturally crafted textiles. Those looking to decorate bar in a two-story wooden house. bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 35

Sightseeing

137 pillars house

Kome tong

the meeting room

stay Wat Gate’s hottest property, 137 Pillars House [20] , is a new 30-suite boutique hotel located in one of four stately teak house compounds built by the manager of the East Borneo Company, Louis Leonowens (the son of Anna, of The King and I fame), back in 1889. After WWII it was sold to William Bain, a Scotsman who worked for the company, and later inherited by his son Jack (the founder of the aforementioned Wat Gate museum) but has now found new life as an elegant, colonial-themed hotel. Wat Gate Karem museum

[2] [3] [6] [5] [8] [21]

N aw a rat S o i 2 /1

1 [7] [9] [10] [11]

137 Pillars House 2 Soi 1, Nawatgate Rd | 053-247-788 | www.137pillarshouse.com Baan Orapin 150 Charoenrat Rd | 053-243-677 | www.baanorapin.com

[12]

[13]

36 | M a rch 2012

S oi 1

h ae t

[17] [20]

[22]

[15]

tK Wa Nha

[1]

S oi

[14]

[4]

ich

[16]

K ae o

C h ar

ang W Tai

[19] [18]

Soi 2

K ae

tR ar a

Architectural conservationists apparently strived to retain the integrity of the original building – especially the teak pillars after which it is named – and it’s here you’ll find classic, old-world-style facilities such as the library bar and parlor lounge. Dotted around it, within the compound’s tropical flower filled grounds, are the swimming pool and the outhouses containing the 30 suites, each pairing mod cons with a vintage tiled veranda, claw-footed bathtub and outdoor garden shower. Room sizes are another luxury here, with the smallest coming in at 70m2 and the biggest, the two Louis Leonowens pool suites, a whopping 135m2. If it’s fully booked or out of your budget, another attractive option located in a bucolic old Wat Gate compound is Baan Orapin [21] .

g run

tip When you’re done exploring the area walk over the oi 2 footbridge ng Sadjacent to Wat Gate temple. On the other side M ue roen quickly find more multi-cultural adventures in the you’ll a h C shape of Worarot [22] , the city’s bustling indoor fresh market, and the surrounding Chinatown area. bangkok101.com

travel | hotel deals

Hotel Deals

Until March 31 Introductory rates

Until March 31 Rejuvenate Package for Residents

Until March 31 Stay Two, Get One

CENTARA PATTAYA 78/140 Moo 9, Tombol Nongprue, Banglamung | Chonburi | 038-295-999 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

SHANGRI-LA CHIANG MAI 89/8 Chang Klan Rd, Muang Chiang Mai | 053-253-888 www.shangri-la.com

The newly-opened Centara Pattaya Hotel is offering introductory rates for each of its room categories until 31 March, with breakfast included. Rates based on two people sharing, begin at B 2,450 for a deluxe room with family studio. Two children under the age of 12 and sharing their parents’ room and bedding are included at no extra charge. One-bedroom suites and two-bedroom suites are also available.

The Shangri-La Hotel Chiang Mai has a special offer for Thais and expatriates who work here: deluxe rooms from B 3,500 net per night for single or double occupancy. The exclusive offer includes complimentary buffet breakfast for two and Wi-Fi access. A good reason to head up to the Rose of the North now is the Royal Flora Ratchaphruek 2011, the city’s biggest annual flower show, which ends March 14.

The Centara Hotel up in the North eastern city of Udon Thani is offering one free night’s accommodation to guests staying for two consecutive nights. Breakfast is included in the offer, which is based on two people sharing twin accommodation, and with up to two children under the age of 12 sharing their parents’ room and bedding included at no extra charge. Rates start at B 2,000 for a superior room.

Until March 31 Rock Star Life Package

Until April 30 Introductory Rates

Until July 15 Thai Resident’s Offer

HARD ROCK PATTAYA 429 Moo 9, Pattaya Beach Rd, Cholburi | 038-428-755-9 www.hardrockhotels.net

IBIS HUA HIN 87 Petchkasem Rd, Hua Hin, Prachubkirikhan | 02-659-2888 www.ibishotel.com

ANANTARA RASANANDA 5/5 Moo 5 | Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach Koh Phangan | 077-239-555 phangan-rasananda.anantara.com

Pattaya’s Hard Rock hotel is celebrating its recent makeover with something called the Rock Star Life Package. No, they’re not offering you the chance to hang out with Keith Richards for one dissolute weekend, rather a chance to stay in their revamped premium rooms and suites, up on the exclusive Kings Club floor, for a discount price: B 5,440 – B 7,865 a night. The deal includes express check-in and lots of goodies.

The Ibis Hua Hin, a brand new 200room hotel near Khao Takiab beach, is located a ten minute drive north of Hua Hin proper. To celebrate its opening they’re offering rates for a standard room starting at B1,080++ per night, and family rooms for B1,580++ per night. For a budget hotel the facilities are surprisingly well-rounded, rooms all coming with LCD TVs, Wi-Fi internet access and 24-hour room service.

Koh Phangan island’s most upscale hideaway is offering Thai residents rate starting from just B 5,800++ per night, inclusive of breakfast for two. Stay here three nights or more and you’ll also receive return shared car and speedboat transfers between Koh Samui airport and the resort. All its 64 private pool suites and pool villas come with a terrace or balcony, a personal pool, as well as complimentary spirits and snacks.

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CENTARA UDON 277/1 Prajaksillapakhom Rd, Muang Udon Thani | 042-343-555 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

M a rch 2012 | 39

t rav e l

Kicking Back in the Cardamoms Deep in Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastal mountain range, a luxurious resort awaits the bolder traveler

THAILAND

travel | C ambodia

Bangkok CAMBODIA Koh Chang Tatai

OVER THE BOARDER

by Merrit Gurley

Gulf of Thailand

xiting Thailand for Cambodia can be a less than positive experience. As I discovered on a recent trip, tourists who rock up at the border at Koh Kong tend to be treated like walking dollar signs by the price-hiking custom officials. Don’t let this put you off though: take a short taxi ride and within 20 minutes you’re cutting through deep green jungle and crossing expansive views of the towering Cardamom Mountains as you pelt along Highway 48. As our driver explained while we stared transfixed out the windows, this mountain range – one of Southeast Asia's largest rainforests – is a habitat for indigenous species of tigers, elephants and bears. As it turned out, though, this scenery, the ocean to the right and lush rolling hills to the left, was just an amuse bouche for the main course to come. Soon our taxi stopped near the steps of a bridge in a village called Tatai. Here we waited at the bridge for five minutes for the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge boat to arrive, which it did, right at sunset. The ride took 25 minutes, cruising slowly down the Tatai River, with palm trees, mangroves, and green isles on either side of the river lit golden in the dying daylight. On arrival we were met by the sight of the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge stretched out across the water: a series of twelve high end luxury yurts arranged in V shape, with the restaurant and lounge area at the base of the V. Essentially these ‘villas’ are simply large tents erected on a wooden pier, but the décor is such a divine potpourri of luxuriant and cozy that it feels like you’re stepping into a genie’s bottle.

Phnom Penh

VIETNAM

is a fine dining experience and the chef specialises in fresh seafood. Dinner was a set menu at $19, with soup, appetizers, main course, dessert and coffee all included. The signature cocktails were an added expense but worth the extra spend for a refreshing tropical buzz.

The pace was slow, and we liked it that way. That evening I was lured to sleep by the water lapping against the pier and slumbered deeply through the night. I woke up just past 9am full of energy and ready to explore. There were a few different possibilities. 4 River guides lead jungle treks, jaunts to spy on the rare and beautiful beaked nearby hornbill community, fishing trips for an assuredly fresh supper, and walks to the Tatai Waterfalls. I decided to give the guides a break, however, and embark on a kayak investigation of the mangroves.

I spent a few hours leisurely rowing around the resort. The flora and fauna are stunning, and you don’t have to go far to Every room is 45m2 and comes with a flat-screen television, see an astounding cross section of Cambodia’s biodiversity. Wi-Fi and mini-bar, not to mention it's own private deck with By lunch time I was ready for a cold dip in the river, which large reclining lounge chairs and a ladder leading right into was murky due to the low tidal season, but completely safe for swimming. Splashing around was a lovely and invigoratthe river – perfect for swimming. ing end to my afternoon’s adventure The resort’s website defines its goal of being “at one with the natural order and engaging the community in fostering the This floating haven is the perfect get away for couples in soft tread of an environmentally aware footprint.” Part of search of a romantic weekend, adventurers looking for a this initiative includes using only environmentally friendly jungle to trek or river to kayak, or travelers just in search materials, limiting the use of wood, ensuring responsible of a quiet weekend in a verdant paradise with a good book. waste water treatment and educating locals and tourists alike on the importance of conservation. 4 Rivers Floating Lodge After taking a brief tour of the resort and settling into my Tatai, Cambodia | +855 (0)23-217-374 | www.ecolodges.asia room, I headed to the restaurant for dinner. The restaurant High season rates (ends April 30): $135 – 191 a night

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M a rch 2012 | 41

PARIS IN BANGKOK T. D. Armonia at Gossip Gallery

A R T S & C u lt u r e | x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Arts & Culture Dominating the arts calendar for the second month in a row is Franco-Thai arts extravaganza, La Fête. Until the end of this month it’ll bring modern circus and dance, video installations, a film festival, and public art exhibitions to venues and open spaces around town. See p. 8 for more, and p. 46 for our interview with one of the participating Thai fine artists, Chiang Mai based Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook. Also continuing this month is Dwelling in a Space, by Bangkok-based female Korean artist, Gi-ok Jeon, at Galerie N. Tackling issues of identity in a foreign landscape, her multimedia installation of wire sculptures, ink wash paintings and woodblock prints attempt to meld craft techniques with more contemporary ideologies and presentation. Another artist experimenting with folk-art forms to explore modern themes is Chusak Srikwan. In his exhibition Play, at Tang Contemporary Art, he uses traditional nang talung, or shadow puppetry, to imbue playful toy imagery with a darker political symbolism. Other notable shows worth catching include graduate artist Prapat Jiwarangsan’s politically aligned multimedia installation I’ll Never Smile Again at WTF Gallery; and sensual female paintings against a Parisian backdrop by Northern Italian artist Thomas Diego Armonia (pictured opposite).

A R T S & C u lt u r e

exhibition highlights

Dwelling in a Space Galerie N [map8 /L15] 139/5 Wireless Rd | MRT Lumpini 02-252-1592 | www.galerienbangkok.com Tue – Sun 10 am – 7 pm Until MAR 25

Using art as a means to better understand the environments and cultures she lives in, Korean artist Gi-ok Jeon combines the traditional techniques of East Asian ink wash painting, woodblock print, along with woven and embroidered materials, to create tactile spatial installations that straddle tradition and modernity. In her latest identity-driven exhibition, the artist – a long time expatriate in Thailand – suspends delicate wire weave objects that cast shadows across exuberant playful paintings of her young daughter.

Play Tang Contemporary Art [map5 /D5] 1st F, The Silom Galleria (Unit B-28) 919/1 Silom, Soi 19 BTS Surasak | 02-630-1114 | www.tangcontemporary.com Mon – Sat 11 am – 7 pm; closed Sun & Holiday Until MAR 10

One of Tang’s representative artists at the recent Art Stage Singapore, Chusak Srikwan’s latest atmospheric installation uses nostalgic children’s toys as

analogies for political game playing. Minus the performance, Chusak reinvigorates traditional nang talung, or shadow puppetry, with contemporary referencing that blurs the boundaries between folk art and fine art.

I‘ll never smile again WTF Gallery & Café [map 3 / Q 6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02-662-6246 | BTS Thong Lor www.wtfbangkok.com | Tue – Sun 4 – 10 pm Until Mar 31

Having recently graduated from London’s Royal College of Art, Prapat Jiwarangsan’s installation of photo collages, video art and multimedia works examines the continuing socio-political fractures in Thailand, as well as his own awkward entrenchment as a former student funded by, and now in the employment of, the Thai government. 4 4 | M a rch 2012

bangkok101.com

A R T s & c u l t u r e | E x h i b i t i o ns

Paris in Bangkok Gossip Gallery [map 5 / D5] 3rd F, The Silom Galleria (Unit 331) | 919/1 Silom, Soi 19 BTS Surasak | 02-637-7878 | www.gossipgallerybkk72.com Mon – Sat 10 am – 7 pm Until Mar 31

In conjunction with the Novotel Siam Square Hotel,

Thomas Diego Armonia presents his first solo exhibition

in Thailand. Hailing from Genoa and drawing influence from the Italian Baroque, Armonia’s distinct figurative style focuses on the female character. Set against the Parisian landscape, Armonia’s sensual idealized portrayals are seductive in their play of classicism and modernism.

Equilibrium Numthong Gallery [map 8 / H7] Room 109, Bangkok Co-op Bldg | Toeddamri Rd | BTS Ari 02-243-4326 | www.rama9art.org/gallery/numthong Mon – Sat 11 am – 6 pm Until APR 10

In this duo exhibition, emerging artists Kwanchai Lichaikul and Trinnapat Chaisittisak create surreal landscapes inspired by the urban experience. Architects of the imagination, their intriguing structures and spaces play with the possibility and potentiality of 21st century living.

Mythos and Mime Eat Me [map 5 / j 6] Soi Phi Phat 2, Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-238-0931 www.eatmerestaurant.com l 3 pm – 1 am March 6 Until APR 29

Bangkok-based American photographer Cameron Wolf works as an advisor for the US Agency for International Development (USAID), working in the field of HIV / AIDS prevention and treatment. Drawing parallels with the work of Diane Arbus, his third exhibition in Thailand is a playful yet poignant series of portraits that depicts players from Bangkok’s underground art world performing while dressed as mythical eastern creatures.

Enjoy these highlights from our sister publication the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free city map containing insights into Thailand's blossoming art scene. www.bangkokartmap.com bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 45

A R T S & C u lt u r e

ART 1-0n-1 by Steven Pettifor

Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook on the two planet series

Since the late nineties, Chiang Mai-based artist Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook has shifted her focus from gender related print and sculptural installations to aesthetically arresting timebased videos featured in numerous international showcases. On view at French-Thai cultural festival La Fete, Rasdjarmrearnsook’s Two Planets (2007-8) is her reaction to Western art viewing and appreciation conventions. Captured against rural backdrops, the video vignettes place reproductions of 19th century French masterpieces in front of villagers and record their responses. The anonymous gathering sits with their backs to the camera, with the humorous responses from the unconditioned commentators revealing cultural nuances, as well as attitudes to race, gender roles and sex. Their sincerity and lack of pretension is a provocation aimed directly at the art world.

Araya

You regularly include aspects of agrarian existence in your art. What are you trying to convey about village life?

Did the farmers’ discussions teach you anything about art appreciation?

No, but I did learn about how the farmers thought, such as their interpretations of the shifting time periods of the paintings, which is different to the time frame in the original images. They were very human and humorous when talk"i try to ing about the art in the context of that avoid being environment. It wasn't about being clever or too clever needing all of the information.

I think the way of my doing art and living is rooted to simplicity. I try to avoid being too clever and full of pretence or trickery. Were there any other video artists you looked to for inspiration?

Not really. Most of the inspiration for my and full of art or writing comes from the process of combining a series of fragmentary mean- pretence and Was there anything you gained from this trickery." work that you hadn’t predicted before starting ings, feelings or thoughts. It is similar to on it? how you give different words meaning by forming sentences and paragraphs. It isn't important I just arranged for two strangers (the villagers and the paintthat the sentences explain something concrete but rath- ing) to meet. I didn’t have any big expectations for what er that it provokes further thought. In this way I avoid would come of it. Perhaps this meeting allowed me to get slightly closer to the spirit of humanity. giving a complete picture or narrative. All the paintings are mid 19th century European master pieces. Why did you focus on this period and genre?

I choose this period because of the interesting contrast between the subjects of the paintings and the villagers and their surroundings. Also it is easier for them to talk about these sorts of works than something more abstract, and they are all familiar pieces to people within the art world.

46 | M a rch 2012

In several of your video series you incorporate the idea of education through art discourse or social ex change. Is learning an important element of your art or more a byproduct of the social constructs you set up in it?

I am as much a teacher as an artist, I think.

bangkok101.com

A R T S & C u lt u r e | x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

THE TWO PLANET SERIES March 15 – April 29 Muesum of Siam [map 7 / D 13] 4 Sanam Chai Rd (next to Wat Pho), www.lafete-bangkok.com or en.museumsiam.com Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | Free

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M a rch 2012 | 47

A R T S & C u lt u r e

AKSRA THEATRE

National Theatre

SALA CHALERMKRUNG [map 7 / H 12] 66 Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-8148 www.salachalermkrung.com | B 800 – 1200 A former cinema from the 1930s is one Our performing arts scene may not throb of the few places in Bangkok where like in other cities, but look under the traditional Thai masked dance, or khon, surface and you’ll find it there, beating is shown on a regular basis. More than 60 to its own rhythm. For more information try www.thaiticketmaster.com or our own dancers in elaborate costumes perform episodes from the Ramakien, the Thai website www.bangkok101.com . version of the Indian Ramayana epic, on Thursday and Friday evenings from AKSRA THEATRE [Map 8 / K 10] 7:30 pm. On other nights, the Sala 3rd F, King Power Complex Chalermkrung theatre hosts peformances 8 / 1 Rang Nam Rd, Phaya Thai ranging from Thai pop to Elvis Presley tribBTS Victory Monument ute nights. For more information check their 02-677-8888-5602 website or book with ThaiTicketmaster Tue – Fri 7 pm; Sat & Sun 1 pm and 7 pm Tucked away in the sleek white bowels (www.thaiticketmaster.com). of Soi Rangnam's King Power Duty Free complex, this 600 -capacity theatre lined SIAM NIRAMIT [map 8 / R 9] with fabled wood carvings is the place to 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd come to enjoy hypnotic performances by MRT Thai Cultural Centre (then shuttle) the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, A breathtaking, record-breaking extravagiven life by puppeteers swathed in black, ganza, hailed as ‘a showcase of Thailand’. act out Thai literary epics. Family enter- Using hundreds of costumes and amazing tainment of the most refined kind, this has special effects, more than 150 performbeen one of the few places where you can ers journey whirlwind-like through seven catch Thai puppetry since the much loved centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 Joe Louis Puppet Theatre was demolished. guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ fantasia to others. คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ� สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Theatres

NATIONAL THEATRE [map 7 / D 5] 2 Rachini Rd, (Phrapinklao Bridge) 02-224-1342 | Mon – Fri 9 am – 4 pm 2 Rachini Rd. (Northern end of Sanam Luang)| 02-224 1342 | tickets B60/80/100 Along with the National Museum, this imposing theatre forms an island of high culture and is held in high esteem by those who care about classical Thai performing arts. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are intermittently staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May. On the last Friday of each month at 5pm there are performances of khon (classical Thai masked dance). โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง 48 | M a rch 2012

BACC

BACC – BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE [map 4 / B 4] 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-8 www.bacc.or.th | Tue – Sun 10 am – 9 pm Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design. The upper levels boast 3,000sqm of exhibition space. หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน GOETHE INSTITUT [map 8 / L 17] 18 / 1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 MRT Lumpini | 02-287-0942 / 4 www.goethe.de | 8 am – 6 pm สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18 / 1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1 JAPAN FOUNDATION [map 3 / F 4] 10 th F, Sermmit Tower | 159 Asok Montri (Sukhumvit Soi 21), Soi 1 | BTS Asok 02-260-8560-4 | www.jfbkk.or.th Mon – Fri 9 am – 7 pm, Sat 9 am – 5pm เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

TCDC – THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE [map 3 / M 7] 6th F, The Emporium Shopping Complex Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-664-8448 | www.tcdc.or.th Cultural Centres Tue – Sun 10:30 am – 9 pm Bangkok’s cultural centres bring in This very slick design learning and resource topnotch exhibitions and performances facility aims to stimulate creativity and from the world of visual arts, innovation among young Thai designers. drama, dance, music, fashion, film, Everyone, however, is free to attend its design, literature and more … workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. Don’t miss ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE [map 5 / K 7] permanent exhibition, “What is Design?”, 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng a look at how 10 countries used their 02-670-4200 | www.alliancefrancaise.or.th uniqueness for creative ends, or a peek at Mon – Sat 10 am – 6 pm the state-of-the-art library featuring over 16,000 rare books and a textile centre. สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ.สาทรใต้ ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24 bangkok101.com

A R T S & C u l t u r e | r e ad i ng & scr e e n i ng

THE LAST EXECUTIONER

101 THAI FORMS

Thai Taxi Talismans

Chavoret Jaruboon Maverick House | 296pp | B 495

Wijit Apichartkriengkrai art4d | 352pp | B 316

Dale Konstanz River Books | 160pp | B 796

Capital punishment: the harshest penalty the laws of the land can deliver. Just desserts dished up by the karma police – or simply state-sponsored murder? Whatever your moral stance, if you were condemned in Thailand before the advent of lethal injection in 2003, your stance would be: strapped to a crucifix, hands bound in a wai, a target over your heart, with your back to Chavoret Jaruboon manning a notalways-trusty submachine. This is the autobiography of the simple, yet very reflective and practical man. Born a stone’s throw from an opium-flouting brothel, he started out as an Elvis-adoring touring musician, and ended up doing away with 55 inmates at Bang Kwang, the infamous Bangkok Hilton. Unsurprisingly, it’s harrowing stuff. And also pretty hard to put down.

If the little things – your everyday ephemera – are what make a culture, Thailand is in trouble. That’s the overarching gist of this dinky little coffee table book, the opening pages of which find the author lamenting a fake plastic age in which synthetic foreign crap has usurped homegrown Thai forms. It’s not as po-faced as it sounds. Wijit quickly hops off his soapbox, after which you’re on a kaleidoscopic nostalgia ride. It’s a blast browsing these 101 sassy vignettes sketching the native foods, games, trinkets, tricks and toys of his rural childhood – among them things as useless as coconut husk stilts and as useful as banana-leaf food wrappers. But, on the flip, it’s also sobering to realise that most have “like some species of wildlife”, faded from sight. A bittersweet but enlightening read.

A Bangkok taxi ride is more than just a trip from A to B – it's also a journey through the byways of Thai belief. Most taxi drivers here festoon their cabs with a hotchpotch of talismans, sacred icons, fresh flowers and pop culture bits and bobs. Sometimes its mere decoration, but usually it’s an expression of the driver’s spiritual philosophy – a mini altar to the Gods, monks, celestials and spirits he or she worships. This unlikely coffeetable book – four years in the making, as luridly colourful as the cabs it’s about – is the insider’s guide, explaining exactly what that swaying string of beads or laughing Buddha grinning at you from the dashboard means to the driver. Meticulously produced by River Books and split neatly into themed chapters, it’s a fun, fascinating ride.

reading

& screening Bangkok Dangerous

Danny and Oxide Pang | 2000 | $10 (www.ethaicd.com) Skip the Nicholas Cage remake. The Pang brothers’ fiercely visual shoot-’em-up flick is a revved-up riff on Bangkok’s underworld. Characters include a tragic deaf and mute contract killer, his cocky mentor, a chain-smoking moll, and a sweet-faced pharmacist – but the real star is this City of fallen Angels. With its gyrating bar girls, back alleys, grubby rented rooms, and harsh fluorescent and neon glare, the film clearly has a thing for Bangkok’s underbelly edge. Stuttery camera work and use of B&W and 8mm give the film kinetic flair, but the gangsta conflict of fulfilling filial duties versus seeking romantic redemption doesn’t take hold – the film lacks the melancholy poetry of Wong Kar-Wai or John Woo’s campy Grand Guignol gore, to quote two obvious influences. Despite this, Bangkok Dangerous can still be enjoyed as a nasty bit of fun – a dirty love letter to the dark side of a city. bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 49

1963

SAM SUEA – Three Bandits

REEL COOL

Remember in g th e cut-and -paste movie poster Thai

elcome to the eye- po pping world of th e old Thai movie poster. Am ong film m rabi lia colle emoctors the w orld over, Th land’s obso ai lete hand -p ainted st yle wel l known an is d highly cove ted, but the following se lection pred ates it – al l ar examples of e the much ha rder to find cut-and -pas te st yle that prevai led in the Fif ties an d faded out in the Six ties. Cut-out ph otographs of the movie’s stars in action wou ld be pasted into collage s that give a tantalising fla vour of the film along with co ol typography and spla shes of colo ur and textur These would e. then be repr oduced and hung in cine ma foyers, coffeeshops markets, on , roadside ho ardings and anywhere el se it might ca tch the eye of a keen m oviegoer. Th e simplest us only one or ed two colours and were pr ed on thin tra intns lucent shee ts that resem ble tracing pa per; later on es employed three or four and were of a better qual ity. As you can se e from the fo lowing select lion, al l taken from a private collection, thes e retro design clas sti ll have the sics power to gr ab your at te tion, despite nthe film s th ey adverti se being largel y forgot ten or, in mos ca ses, lost t forever. Exam ples include the poster fo r the bittersw eet 19 55 love story Chuafah Dinsalai (the only film of the bunch th at survives – you can pick up a copy on DVD at www .thai film.com and anothe ), r featuring movie lege M itr Chaiban nd cha in an ea rly incarnation of hi s m ost fa mou s ro le, as maske crime fighter d Red Eagle. Re el Cool!

1956

Pai Kwuang – Wilderness (Wide Forest)

1962

Mue Lhek – Iron Hands

1955

1964

Insee daeng: Tab Saming Kla – Red Eagle Series

chua fah din salai – Forever Yours

Saengwah KRATONG TONG at Ruen Urai

krop maak maak

* so crispy

Food & Drinks news WINE BARS, WE LOVE YOU

BOURBON STREET 2.0

“Imbibing in the Thai capital has never been more accessible or more interesting,” declared the New York Times recently – and we can’t help but agree with them. Our wine coming-of-age continues apace this month with the opening of Scarlett on the 37 th floor of the Sofitel Bangkok Silom Hotel (188 Silom Rd | 02-2381991 | www.sofitel.com), which is set to become the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G in April. This replacement for their old wine bar, V9, will stock more than 150 labels (including ten by the glass) and serve a European-style menu of cheeses, cold cuts, daily specials and tapas. New standalone wine-bistros include Ekamai’s Sip (33/32 Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-714-2223 | sipwinebar.com), and yet another with a wine pun for a title, X Wine Z, (1st F, Manor Complex, 32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 089-5631290 | www.xwinez.com) in the space that was formerly Reynards. Its grand opening is slated for March 23.

Following 25 years in Washington Square – and a long period of “will they or won’t they?” – the iconic Bourbon St. Restaurant (9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-381-6801 | www.bourbonstbkk.com) has finally moved to a new location. Now it serves its Louisiana Cajun specialities in Soi Ekamai – and is also a ‘boutique hotel’. We’ll have a full review in a future issue, but as far as we can tell it appears to be very much business as usual, the menu still featuring New Orleans favourites such as boiled live crawfish and gumbo, and Tuesday night still the popular all-you-can-eat buffet night.

UNCLE JOHN EXPANDS Popular Suan Plu Soi 8 expat dinnerstop, Uncle John (fourth shophouse down on the left | 081-373-3865), has expanded. To meet the high demand for a table, there’s now a larger dining room a few doors down in addition to the hole-in-the-wall where the titular chef, who works the kitchens at The Sukhothai Hotel by day, cooks his haute cuisine for fair prices. No news on whether he’s grown a second pair of hands, or recruited one, so we’re a bit worried this could mean even longer waits for your seabass fillet or duck breast. Still, it’s well worth trying.

NEW THAI FINE DINING We checked it out last month but enjoyed ourselves so much that we’re going to plug it again. Thailand’s answer to Jamie Oliver, Ian Chalermkittichai has recently opened a new Thai place called Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn | 02-672-9040 | www.issaya.com) in the old, colonial-style building that was formerly Le Café Siam. A TV personality, cookbook writer and chef with several international restaurants to his name, Ian combines traditional ingredients, many of them organic ones grown in his herb garden out back, with progressive cooking methods. His desserts are especially memorable. Another new Thai fine dining option also looks to be on its way on Sukhumvit Soi 23. Word is that The Local, located in a low-slung modern Thai bungalow towards the end of the soi, will specialise in old recipes that have almost disappeared and opens March 5.

FOOD & DRINKS

MEAL Deals Ongoing – Mouthwatering Specials Chatrium Hotel and Residences [map 2 / e11] 28 Charoenkrung Soi 70 | 02-307-8888 | www.chatrium.com The Chatrium Hotel’s River Barge Restaurant has given its international buffet dinner (B 999++) an overhaul. New ‘Wow’ food stations now offer nightly specials such as lamb (Tue), Wagyu beef (Wed) and lobster (Fri). Weekends feature oysters on Saturdays and Foie Gras on Sundays. What’s the best way to get to the riverside venue? Chatrium runs a free shuttle boat service to and from Saphan Thaksin pier. Ongoing – Japanese Bento Delights Imperial Queen's Park Hotel [map 3 / k,L 7] 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 | www.imperialhotels.com City views and Japanese food go hand in hand at Kacho, the Japanese restaurant on the 37th Floor of the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel. For guests bamboozled by the wide variety of Japanese cuisine on offer, there’s now an easier way than sifting through the menu: Japanese Bento sets that pack appetisers, main and side dishes in to a neat box. Three different sets, ranging in price from B 510++ to B 650++, are available. March 23 – 31 – Healthy Dim Sum Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square [map 4 / E5] Siam Square Soi 6 | 02-209-8888 | www.novotelbkk.com For the last week of the month Hong Kong born Chef Chan will present a selection of creative dim sum at Lok Wah Hin restaurant. His Healthy Dim Sum menu will feature new creations based on healthy ingredients like snow fish, salmon and green tea. If you’d like to scarf as many as you can manage, the all-you-can-eat lunch deal, B 620++, is good value, including soup, fried rice or noodles and a dessert. Ongoing – Stratospheric Set Dinner Lebua Hotel at State Tower [map 5 / C 5] 1055 Silom Rd | 02-624-9999 | www.lebua.com One of Lebua’s two outdoor dining venues, Breeze is one of the city’s finest – and priciest – al fresco restaurants, pairing cool design with contemporary Asian dining and stunning 52nd floor views over the city. To lure guests up and along its dramatic lit glass suspension bridge, they’re currently offering a special five-course set menu priced at B 4,500++ per person (B 6,500++ with wines). That’s a lot less than normal. Throughout March – 15% discount for Bangkok 101 Readers Firehouse Pub & Restaurant [map 3 / C 4] 3/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3643 | www.firehousethailand.com If you’re in need for a good hearty meal and happen to be in the Sukhumvit area, head for the Firehouse. Open from 11:30 am till 3 am in the morning, the kitchen here will satisfy your cravings for filling bar food with fish and chips, freshly cooked burgers made from quality Thai-French beef and other bar food classics. Bangkok 101 readers who mention the magazine upon ordering enjoy a 15% discount on their meal. Until June – A Culinary Journey Le Meridien Bangkok [map 3 / H,J4] 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8999| www.lemeridienbangkoksurawong.com Le Meridien’s all-day diner, Latest Recipe, has added a clutch of Middle Eastern dishes to its daily international lunch buffet (Mon – Sat only). Arabian flavours like braised lamb shoulder and baklava have now been incorporated into the line-up. The price including free-flow soft drinks, coffee and tea is B1,300++, or B 980++ for food only. Kids under 3 eat for free; under 12s for a 50% discount.

58 | M a rch 2012

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F o o d & Dr i n k s | R e s t a u r a n t R e v i e w

Firehouse Pub & Restaurant Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones

In recent months, we – like many – have been diligently reading the Bangkok Burger Blog (bangkokburgerblog. wordpress.com), the first blog dedicated to the city’s burgeoning burger scene. It’s an entertaining read penned by the Hamburglar, an unidentified expat who scours the streets in search of the good and the bad, and then reports his comically pedantic findings (“the bun to patty ratio was a bit off,” etc) to his readership. If you’re wondering why we mention it, it’s because a ‘Best New Burger 2011’ certificate from the blog, hangs proudly on the red brick walls of this new, Fireman-themed bar restaurant located just across from Q Bar. Also being partial to a beef in buns challenge, we went to find out what this accolade and all the blog hype was about... and were so impressed that we’ve been back since, twice. Firehouse’s come in several guises, from racks of three mini-burgers (B 260) to the Australian Black Angus beef (B 280) and even a Breakfast Burger (B 275), but the one we’ve always opted for is the Premium (B195). For that competitive price tag you get a 180 g patty made from 100% Thai-French rib-eye beef served with crisp lettuce, tomato, onion and mayonnaise in a nice looking bun, plus a tin can stuffed full of golden potato wedges. Extras (B 30 – 80) range from the usual cheese and bacon to more adventurous options like gorgonzola, avocado and caramelised onions; while the all important condiments include mustard, ketchup and homemade pickles.

getting there

Firehouse Pub & Restaurant [MAP4 /C4] 3/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (opposite Q Bar) 02-651-3643 | www.firehousethailand.com Tue – Sat 11:30 am – 3 am; Sun 11:30 am – midnight

It arrives on a wooden cutting board, looking a tad too tall to handle, but it’s nothing a firm grip can’t hold together. No complaints when you sink your teeth into this baby either: juicy, with a good texture and a beefy, well-marinated flavour. The best burger in town argument is destined to rage, and it’ll be a while before we know if they have the consistency necessary to stave off the competition, but there’s no doubt Firehouse has a very tasty contender on its hands. Other well-done American / Euro comfort foods on the menu include spicy buffalo wings (B150), a range of tacos and wraps (B150 – 220), and a delicious stab at fish and chips (B 250), the golden brown slab of beer battered Dory fish served upright in a rustic wooden bowl atop your chips. Zooming out from all the high-cholesterol goodness, the interior is about as warm and inviting as you could hope for in such a narrow space. Banquette seating lines the right side, a row of tables the other, and there’s a well stocked bar serving cocktails and a wide selection of cold beers and wines at the back. Red brick and wrought iron lend the space a snug firehouse feel, a theme that’s rammed home by the firemen memorabilia (photos of heroic firemen in action, an early 18 th century Japanese fireman’s cloak, antique helmets from around the world) that lines the sides, not to mention the 15 % discount for firefighters who flash their ID (just one of many promotions and discounts). Firehouse’s burgers aren’t worth joining the force for, but, having hunkered down on a few already, we can report that they’re not far off. ไฟร์เฮาส์ ผับ แอนด์ เรสเตอร์รอง สุขุมวิท ซ.11 bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 59

FOOD & DRINKS

Mellow

Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones

Pairing red brick walls with pine wood, raw concrete floors and tan leather sofas, Mellow looks great. Certainly, this black steel and glass rectangle located at Thonglor’s popular mini-mall Penny’s Balcony is one of the hippest, slickest looking joints on Bangkok's trendiest boulevard. Windows on two sides allow you to spy on the street (and passersby to peer in inquisitively), while upstairs features yet more laidback seating, as well as a private balcony that gets booked out days in advance. No doubt the interior’s alluring, semi-industrial élan begins to explain why Mellow has become one of Thonglor’s busiest after-work spots, but there’s also the neighbourhood bar vibe, something that the owner Kritanan ‘Ken’ Kamolvarinthip has cultivated since opening back in 2010. Local artists occasionally use the walls and windows as a blank canvas, and in the corner each evening a DJ spins jazz, soul or some other old-school beat at unobtrusive levels. Like most places they have their off nights, but come here on a good one and it’s hard not to feel a bit pleased with yourself – like you’ve wandered into the epicentre of Thonglor bar cool.

getting there

Mellow Bangkok [MAP3 / Q 1] Penny’s Balcony | Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), near Soi 16 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-382-0065 www.facebook.com/mlw.bangkok | 11 am – 1 am

As we discovered, though, just because Mellow is more bar with gastronomic pretensions than fully fledged restaurant doesn’t mean it can’t deliver. Much of what they serve is American or Italian comfort food with Thai touches, such as the strong but rather yummy deep-fried ‘Mellow’ chicken wings marinated in Sriracha (a Thai hot sauce that hails from the coastal city of the same name), cayenne and paprika (B150). Another is an impressive take on calzone. Cutting through this perfectly baked pizza puff reveals a steaming mess of stringy cheesy, tomato and little hooy laay (baby clams) seasoned with local laab spices (B180). A Northeastern dish gone posh, the Australian steak sirloin (B550), comes on a wood chopping board alongside a good jeaw (spicy sauce) and a pouch of sticky rice (and stood alone as the only dish we deemed worthy of penning a superlative-laced tweet about).

All in all, we’d say Mellow serves decent bistro fare that’s not worth going massively out of your way for. However, add the bar side of things – the cocktails, the happy hours (5 – 8 pm everyday), the excellent wine-list, and, yes, the vibe – and that all changes. Mellow currently sits high in the Of course, where these sorts of too-hip-for-their-ownhierarchy of Thonglor hipsterdom, and deservedly so. We good bistro bar joints usually fall down is with the food, wish there were more like it. and here the omens aren’t good, the menu of fusion pastas, salads and mains dwarfed by the 100-strong drinks list. เมลโล่ เพนนีส์ บัลโคนี ทองหล่อ ซ.16 60 | M a rch 2012

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2046 The Izakaya Nouveau

Restaurant review by Howard Richardson

The new Rain Hill boutique mall right on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47 hosts a clutch of dining outlets, among them 2046 The Izakaya Nouveau. It’s another cutely-designed venture from the team behind the popular Japanese diner In the Mood For Love, and like its predecessor named after a Wong Kar-Wai movie, 2046. The room is a pleasing wedge shape with arched wooden window frames, and, though less obviously Japanese, has the familiar parlour feel of In the Mood. Reproduction glass lampshades hang over tables, chairs and bar stools of unvarnished wood, crescent moon sofas and a tiled floor with flourishes of Art Nouveau. The overall feel is Victorian lounge or a cultured absinthe bar in Degas’ Paris. Outside leads to a wooden deck and slender streetlamps with moon-shaped lights, tables and wrought iron chairs that overlook Sukhumvit Road from their first floor perch. The skytrain rumbles overhead. As the name suggests, this is an izakaya, where people traditionally meet over drinks and tidbits. Each setting has a small side plate, and dishes are served centrally to share from a menu that lists appetisers, grills, salads, a handful of sashimi and three rice/noodle dishes.

getting there

2046 The Izakaya Nouveau [map 3 / p 6] 2nd F, Rain Hill | Sukhumvit Soi 47 BTS Phrom Pong / Thong Lor | 02-261-7278 www.facebook.com/2046.Bangkok 5:30 pm – midnight

The food we tried was all sweet, including jellyfish (B100), shredded like short flat noodles, with good bite and a dressing of sesame and sweet acidity; and a baked scallop dish in a sauce of crab guts and mayonnaise (B380). These are smallportion snacks to taste with drinks including sakes, cocktails (from B160), wines (from B220/glass, B950/bottle) and imported beers (from B220), including Estrella Inidit, Latrappe and London Pride. Competition will be fierce here from three other Japanese outlets and a new Wine Connection situated below, but 2046 is a smart, relaxed neighbourhood hangout with a foot-tapping electro soundtrack and a romantic edge that could just put you in the mood. 2046 ดิ อิซากายะ นูโว สุขุมวิท ซ.47

bangkok101.com

M a rch 2012 | 61

FOOD & DRINKS

la table de tee

Restaurant review by Max Crosbie-Jones | Photo: Dejan Patic

A glowing recommendation brought us back to La As before, his rotating menu blends classical French techTable de Tee, a restaurant we rushed to when it niques with local ingredients sourced either from the Royal opened down a Silom backalley two years ago. Project at Doi Kham or his family’s small farm up in Chaiyaphum. One week may be more Asian inspired, the next more Its story is worth retelling: at the ripe young age of 25, Western – it depends on his mood or what’s in season. Chatree ‘Tee’ Kachornklin returned home with six years of experience under his belt at London’s Michelin-starred The fancy plating is the first thing you notice, the second that Roussilon restaurant, where he climbed his way up the portions are quite small (but deceptively so – by the end we ladder, from kitchen hand to sous chef. Rather than work were so top heavy we could have keeled over). Highlights for a hotel, this fresh-faced Northeasterner, with a little from our menu are pretty hard to pick, because everything help from a financial backer, instead made his Bangkok de- from the opening cauliflower and coconut veloute with saubut with a restaurant far bolder and more ambitious than téed tiger prawns to the mushroom risotto and dark chocoits modest and intimate setting suggests. It’s shtick: no à late fondant was a winner. Packed with flavour. la carte menu, but rather a six-course tasting menu that We do confess, however, to being particularly smitten with changes each week. the pan-roasted dishes: both the pork fillet with a fragrant Two years on and not much seems to have changed – five-spices sauce, and the succulent lamb rack with garlic except for the fact that Tee and his small team (a waiter and butter. And then there was the bread – oh my lord, the partner/manager) now have a fiercely loyal following that bread! Perfect for mopping up any residual goodness, it’s proves the critics, who wondered whether a chef’s table made in-house, as is everything apart from the butter and concept could work here (including us), wrong. Even week- ice cream. Wines by the bottle and glass (B300 corkage) nights see the place – a low-ceilinged, blue-painted shop- round off its small but perfectly formed charms. house with close-nit tables – filling up with regulars who are Put off by the lack of choice? Don’t be. Yes, it throws the on first name terms with the staff, as well as tourists who dice every week, but that’s half the fun, and La Table de Tee probably spotted the rave reviews on Tripadvisor (where it a restaurant well worth gambling on. currently ranks third out of 1,027 restaurants in Bangkok). The secret of its success? The passion of Tee’s cooking – not to mention the price (B 900) and, for those who don’t call ahead or check the Facebook page, the element of surprise.

62 | M a rch 2012

ลา เทเบิ้ล เดอ ที ซอยศาลาแดง สีลม getting there

La Table de Tee [map 5 / l6] 69/5 Sala Daeng Rd 1 / 1, Silom BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom | 02-636-3220 www.latabledetee.com Tue – Sun 6:30 pm – 10:30 pm | B900 per person

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TRAVEL THROUGH INDIA IN SUMPTUOUS NEW WAYS

VISIT & EXPERIENCE SARAS

Pure Indian Vegetarian

CUISINE ART

HUNGRY FOR EXCITEMENT?

TIME TO SPICE UP YOUR DAYS IN DELICIOUS NEW WAYS

Hidden in a secret oasis right in the heart of Bangkok, Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art with the elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Experience exquisite Thai flavours. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Plus happy hours from 3 to 6 p.m. daily.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com

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SARAS offers a wide variety of delicacies, many of which you will relish for the first time ever in Thailand. Savour traditional flavours from all over INDIA – Pyaz/Daal Kachori, Dal Bati Churma and Gatte Ki Sabji from Rajasthan; Sarso da Saag and Makke Di Roti and Chole Bhature from Punjab. If you wish to travel light, nothing beats our delicate Mithais from Bengal. Check out innovative Gujarti specialities (Dhokla, Patara, Undhiya, Khandvi, etc) complimented by a whole range of South Indian cusine, savoury chaats and beverages in traditional kulhads. Visit and explore more...

Now also in Pattaya BANGKOK Sukhumvit Soi 20, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 (Landmark : Near Windsor Hotel) Phone: 02 401 8484

www.saras.co.th

PATTAYA Sun City Hotel, 557 Moo 10, 2nd Road, Pattaya Tai (South) Chon Buri 20150 (Landmark : Next to Siam Bayshore Hotel) Phone: 038 424 769

M a rch 2012 | 63

FOOD & DRINKS

Baan Thai Suk 16

Kaosuk at suk 11

gedhawa

Thai All-Rounders

Five restaurants that look good as well as taste it

mong the locals, Thai restaurants with exotic picture-perfect settings are often regarded with suspicion, many writing them off as contrived tourist traps serving watered down approximations of the real deal. Often that is the case, but the truth is that even we sometimes crave silk runners, teak carvings and a gracious ‘wai’ on arrival, especially when we have friends in town. Here are five Thai restaurants that look the part and serve some pretty mouthwatering chow, too.

BAAN THAI SUK 16 [MAP 3 / J 9]

GEDHAWA [MAP 3 / L5 ]

24 Sukhumvit Soi 35 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-050 Mon – Sat 11 am – 2 pm; 5 pm – 10 pm Housed in a converted old-school tailor shop, this pastel-pink Northern Thai restaurant tucked down a quiet Sukhumvit side street is filled with soulful northern touches that mark it out as unique for these parts, from the lulling folk songs of Jaran Manopetch to hanging Lanna-style lanterns and textiles. The menu offers 100 plus dishes, the majority of them Northern Thai, all neatly written up by hand on an elegant silk-backed menu.

try the Lanna hors d’oeuvre (B280++): a big wooden bowl brimming with fresh vegetables and traditional pastes nam prik and nam prik ong, as well as fried pork skin, moo yaw This golden teakwood house pairs indoor and outdoor (pork sausage), nam (fermented sausage) and Northern spicy seating spaces with chunky wooden furniture and a menu of sausage, sai aour. simple Thai cooked by a chef from the North. The menu features dishes you see everywhere, like kai phat mamuang him[map 3 / D 6] mapaan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts) and panaeng kai (chicken red curry), as well as many you don’t. And the 1/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-253-5927 atmosphere throughout – from the separate dining rooms to www.suk11.com | 4 pm – 23:30 pm the outdoor terrace – is homey, heartwarming even. Packed most nights, this rambling Thai restaurant spills

186 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asoke | 02-663- 2329 www.baanthaisuk16.com | 11 am – 11 pm

KAOSUK AT SUK 11

try unusual dishes like the kaeng som cha-om goong (sweet and sour soup with acacia omelet and shrimp), or goong Baan Thai (raw prawns skewered with salmon, lemon, mint and mandarin).

out across the northern entrance into Soi 11’s buzzing little sub-soi. Part of the popular Suk 11 guesthouse, it works a rustic Old Siam atmosphere with lots of lovely teak panelling and overgrown plants obscuring its cozy nooks. Once they’ve doused themselves in the free mosquito repellant, tourists love it, and yet the food isn’t as in thrall to them as you might expect, featuring rare delicacies as well as the obvious ones.

try on-the-money starters such as the sai oui (northern sausage) with sticky rice and the chicken satay.

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TABCHANG

Ruen Urai

RUEN URAI [map 5 / H 4]

TABCHANG [map 2 / G, H 6]

Occupying a century old teakwood house, Ruen Urai is a gorgeous Thai restaurant that even picky locals love. Its ground floor has a contemporary feel, but upstairs is the really evocative spot: an intimate teak panel room sparingly decorated with weathered antiques and family heirlooms. Though restrained with the chilis, the kitchen pays homage to the original owner, a herbal doctor during King Rama V’s reign, by using lots of healthy, fragrant Thai herbs.

Not touristy in the slightest, Tabchang serves ancestral Siamese food dating back to the late 18th century and slowcooked using the finest regional ingredients the owner, Khun Supada Rattagan, and her family can source. But what makes it all the more special is the open-air setting: a converted elephant pavilion filled with antiques, cream furnishings and with low tables and axe cushions stretching out beside the ornamental pond. A gnarled old Banyan tree completes the lyrical backdrop redolent of an old Thai folk epic.

The Rose Hotel | 118 Surawong Rd BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Sam Yan | 02-266-8268-72 11 am – 11:30 pm

1 Nakniwat 41, Lad Phrao 71, Lad Phrao Rd 081-812-2868 | www.tabchang.com Tue – Sun 11:30 am – 2 pm; 5:30 pm – 12 pm

try dishes that show off the herb-orientated cooking policy, such as the red crabmeat curry with chaphlu try the mu krong krang (wokfried pork nuggets coated in (betal nut) leaves, the spicy seared tuna salad with lemon- palm sugar) or beef massaman (an old family recipe). grass and mint, or the lemongrass sticks of chicken satay.

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FOOD & DRINKS

Street Food Hotspots SUKHUMVIT SOI 38 [map 3 / S 7] Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. SURAWONG [map 5 / J 4] A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10 pm until 4 am.

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CORNER OF SILOM / CONVENT [map 5 / J 5] The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2 – 3 am) to avoid the queues.

CHINATOWN [map 6 / H, J 3] Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door.

PRATUNAM [map 4 / G 2] Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Rd, Soi 30 ); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce.

SOI RAMBUTRI (NEAR KHAOSAN) [map 7 / F,G5] Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of the Swensen’s ice cream parlour. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls.

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F o o d & Dr i n k s | S t r e e t f o o d R e v i e w

getting there

pad thai ari

Street Eat review by Amornsri Tresarannukul

There are pad thai shops on every street but picking the wrong one can haunt you for life. To help you avoid second-rate encounters with this famous stir-fry noodle dish, and prove that the delicious pad thai is not just tourist board propaganda, this month we made it our mission to be your guinea pig and bring you the very best we could find. And so it was that we arrived at Pad Thai Ari, a shophouse restaurant near BTS Ari station. As is the case with many of Bangkok’s shophouse eateries, they were recently uprooted from their original location, on Soi Ari, to make way for a new condominium. However, there is an upshot to this injustice: a bigger space in which they can feed more people faster. To find it take Exit 4 from BTS Ari station, walk past the Kasikorn Bank Building and duck down the little alley on the right called Soi Sai Lom.

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Pad Thai Ari [map 7 / G 3] 404 / 16 – 17 Soi Sai Lom Paholyothin BTS Ari Exit no. 4 | 02-270-1654 11 am – 10 pm

What makes it different from your average pad thai outlet is the variety. You can try versions featuring glass noodles and crispy wonton sheets, among other substitutes for the usual wide rice noodles. They also offer an interesting hybrid with another iconic dish, somtum, that uses strips of raw papaya. Pad thai malako it’s called and well worth trying. Size matters here. The price depends on your order of goong, or prawns. A tammada (normal) version with dried shrimp goes for B45; a plate with some juicy whole prawns on top B75. If you’re really famished, there’s also a king-size prawn option for B120. Yes, we know, those prices are a lot more than you’ll pay for a polystyrene palate of the stuff on Khao San Road, but for the flavour and quality we think it’s worth it. A tad too sweet for you? To add some spark remember to season using the rack of condiments in front of you. ผัดไทยอารีย์ ซ.สายลม (ถ.พหลโยธิน ซ.8)

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ealtike

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel …

Nang Loeng market Old market communities survive here but you need to go looking for them. Tucked down an alley on Nakhon Sawan Road, just a few minutes northeast of the Old City by taxi, Nang Loeng is one of them. In the past the local cinema, the famous Salerm Chalerm Thani, and the market that sits in the middle of this hidden enclave, surrounded by King Rama V era shophouses, had a symbiotic relationship. People would come here because they could catch a flick and do their daily shop. Fast forward to the present and the two storied, barnlike wooden structure that was the cinema has long since closed, now a weathered husk, but the area still well worth checking out. Full of noisy merchants hawking their wares, the circa 1899 market here, which was given a makeover in 2006, still packs as wide a selection of local delicacies as it always has, many of them legendary. One must try among the many is a curry over rice stand, Khao Kaeng Rattana, located at the far end of the cinema house. Though pre-prepared, its range of meat curries, stuffed omelets, stir fries and spicy salads is excellent and much loved, many of the recipes dating back to the owner’s grandfather, who apparently cooked in the Royal Palace’s kitchens. Unusual dishes include kaeng kati sai bau (lotus stems in coconut milk with garcinia), and pad phak thong ( pumpkin fried with eggs). A staple, kaeng kiew wan (green curry), is also delicious, its blend of green curry paste, fragrant kaffir lime leaves and fresh coconut milk just right.

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getting there

Khao Kaeng Rattana [map 8 / F10] Nakhorn Sawan Soi 6 (inside Nang Loeng Market compound) | Mon – Sat 10 am – 2 pm

The ran khao gaeng (curry over rice stand) is often avoided by tourists worried about food poisoning. But busy ones like this one, where the food sells out quickly, are a great way to learn more about obscure Thai food – just point to the dishes that look appealing. If you’re really lucky you may have an English speaking government officer who can tell you about each dish as your tablemate. ข้าวแกงรัตนา ตลาดนางเลิ้ง

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F o o d & Dr i n k s | D e ss e r t R e v i e w

Big Knit Café Dessert review by Pattarasuda Prajittanond

At Big Knit, it doesn’t matter if you’re young or old, male or female, housewife or hipster – this is a place where anyone can meet to talk, hang out, and – if you know how to – knit. Located inside the Natural Park apartment complex on bustling Soi Sukhumvit 49, this is Bangkok’s very first knitting café, serving up homemade dishes such as pasta, rice, sandwiches, ice-cream and cake, while customers concentrate on their intricate stitches. The people behind all this threaded genius are cousins Khun Nice and Khun Pho. The pair split duties equally at Big Knit. While Nice looks after the knitting and customers, Pho is busy in the kitchen, making delicious desserts such as Oreo Banana Cake (fresh banana bread topped with caramel sauce and crunchy Oreo), and Baby Choc (chocolate fudge brownie); ranging in price from B 80 – B100. A selection of teas are available if things get a little sweet.

getting there

big knit café map 3/ O 3 88 Sukhumvit 49 | BTS Phrom Phong / Thong Lo 02-260-5050 | www.bigknit49.com | 9 am – 9 pm

The duo were inspired to open Big Knit after reading about young people flocking to new knitting cafes in Europe and North America, part of a worldwide trend that is re-embracing the once disdained pastime, and celebrating the sense of community these shops provide. If you’re not a knitter but would like to know how, details of training workshops are posted in the café. Indeed, the owner has gone out of her way to ensure knitters are comfortable; including soft seats you can sit on for hours, and imported yarn available for purchase (an entire wall is covered with the latter). Overall, it all makes for one of the most charming places we’ve had the pleasure to review; and we’re not just spinning you a yarn when we say that. บิ๊ก นิต คาเฟ่ สุขุมวิท ซ.49

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FOOD & DRINKS

hemlock

Thai HEMLOCK [map 7 / D 4] 56 Phra Athit Rd | Phra Athit Pier 02-282-7507 | Mon – Fri 4 pm – 12 am; Sat from 5 pm An interesting little Thai restaurant on bohemian Phra Athit, not least because it bears little resemblance to one. Starring stippled cream walls and white tablecloths, not to mention soft jazz and Chilean wines, Hemlock’s cosy, Mediterranean-like space attracts mainly roaming tourists and the odd loafer-wearing Thai artiste. While the touristy clientele initially raised our “baby-food bland” alarm bells, the menu has some rare head-turners, almost all coming in sub-B100. Prime example: the meang kam – a hands-on and earthy hors d’oeuvre. Grab a piper leaf, sprinkle with condiments and hold tight for an oral herb-spice-fruit explosion, set off by chilli and lime rind. Another is the khao hor bai bau: a star annice and cinnamon scented rice mound studded with prawns, fallapart pork, mushrooms, Chinese sausage and lotus seeds and wrapped in a steaming lotus leaf. It’s wonderful, if not a little cloying, so make sure you pair it with something gutsy – a spicy soup or salad perhaps. Not at all poisonous, Hemlock is cheap, chilled and worthy of repeat visits. เฮมล็อค ถ.พระอาทิตย์ Mallika [map 8 / K 10] 21/36 Soi Rangnam, Phaya Thai BTS Victory Monument | 02-248-0287 10 am – 10 pm Southern Thai cuisine offers a brave new world of complex, pungent, searing hot flavours. Run by a family from Chumporn – a province in the deep south – this quaint yellow house is one of the best places in town to give it a trial (by fire), serving an extensive range of southern curries, salads, stir-fries and vegetables dishes. Start yourself off with something mild, like the dok kajon fai dang. Cooked in oyster sauce, this 70 | M a rch 2012

Supatra River House

stir-fry stars flecks of pork and a crunchy fern-like vegetable and is delicious. Ditto the pla samret tod mamuang: deep-fried fish served alongside an out-of-this-world mango dressing. Not hot enough for you? Here are three dishes that push the spiceo-metre to overdrive: the khua kling nua (fried beef in spicy paste with kaffir lime leaves), the gaeng leang (turmeric-yellow curry), and, the most tongue-scouring but gratifying dish we tried, the gaeng dtai pla (a rich, complex, maroon-red bamboo & pumpkin curry). Also interesting is goong pad kapi sataw: a strong tasting stir-fry pairing juicy prawns with fermented shrimp paste and bitter green beans. Note that dishes for foreigners will probably be less assertively spiced. If you want the full incendiary rocket blast, brush up on your Thai and prepare for lift-off. มัลลิกา ซ.รางน้ำ�

baan somtum

NORTHEAST THAI BAAN SOMTUM [map 5 / D 6] 9/1 Soi Srivieng, near Sathorn Rd BTS Surasak | 02-630-3486 | 11 am – 10 pm Love somtum? If so your ship has come in: this upscale Isaan restaurant serves a staggering 22 different types of the North east’s phenomenally popular raw papaya salad. There’s porkneck somtum, salted egg somtum, even a Luang Prabang somtum (yep, we’re intrigued too). Any good? Let’s just say that we tried the somtum pu ma… and marvelled at its fiery tang and legs of horseshoe crab. As for the other Issan dishes – all 80 of them – the kitchen seems just as skilled at the deep-fryer and soup pot as it is the pestle and mortar. The golden-fried tub tim fish is sublime, the gaeng hed poh (spicy popping-mushroom soup) beguilingly spiced, and the laab tod a deep-fried, crackling variation on the minced meat salad. Best of all are the pocket-friendly prices – though the owner pays inner-city rents she charges the same as at her other branches in the ‘burbs. For assertive, flavourful Isaan food in a bright, clean townhouse setting, Baan Somtum is a no-brainer. Plentiful parking too.

SUPATRA RIVER HOUSE [map 7 / A 9] 288 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd Wat Rakhang Pier | 02-411-0305 11 am – 2:30 pm; 5:30 – 11pm This often-crowded place combines all things Thai: dinner theatre, breath-taking views of Bangkok’s major sights, and a wooden riverside restaurant serving good Thai food. Arrive before sunset – and stick บ้านส้มตำ� ซ.ศรีเวียง to the terrace – to watch the spectacle of the illuminated Grand Palace. Upon Soi POLO FRIED CHICKEN [map 8 / L 16] request, a wooden barge picks you up 137/1-2 Soi Polo, Witthayu Rd from any riverside hotel. The convinc- BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Lumpini ing food is classic Thai, but somewhat 02-655-8489 watered down to please foreign tongues. “The best in town!” “Whips KFC’s butt!” Expect the usual suspects: pomelo salad, Thais love raving about food, and yet rarely soft shell crab, tom yam goong. Former does a dish get as much love as the super Lonely Planet author Joe Cummings says tasty fried chicken at this cheap Thai resthat Mick Jagger once ran into Angelina taurant near Lumpini Park. At lunchtimes Jolie here, but you should rather expect office workers come to get their fix. We’ve Asian tour groups on lunch stops. Yet, it’s seen them: licking their lips as plates of the a neat way to spend an evening, especially tender, golden-brown stuff showered in on Saturday night when Thai folk plays are deep-fried crispy garlic are ferried in from the kitchen a few doors down. And there’s performed – on these nights, reservations more. Though the chicken, best eaten with are essential. fingerfuls of their spot-on sticky rice, gets สุภัทรา ริเวอร์เฮ้าส์ ซ.วัดระฆัง most of the column inches, other notable bangkok101.com

F o o d & Dr i n k s | R e s t a u r a n t s

Home Run

dishes include the nam tok salad with freakishly big strips of beef, and the fat, juicy tod man pla (fish cakes). Some dishes, like Isaan classic som tum (spicy papaya salad), come out too sweet by our reckoning. But it’s nothing a bit of clumsy Thai can’t put right, and besides, there’s none of the grittiness (i.e. offaly bits) or car fumes you find streetside. Don’t expect anything lavish: the closest this air-conditioned shophouse comes to decoration is a couple of bored looking waitress “pretties”. ไก่ทอดซอยโปโล ถ.วิทยุ

American HOME RUN [MAP 3 / J4] 253/2 Soi Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua MRT Phetchaburi | 02-258-6250 www.homerunbangkok.com 11 am – 1 am Inside Home Run, a bright, two floor bar and grill houses a pool table, a row of stools and tables, and, as you might expect,

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Din Tai Fung

big screens playing back-to-back baseball films. Upstairs is a Goodfellas-esque dining room, with leather upholstered chairs, white tablecloths, and framed baseball photos covering every possible wall space. The substantial holiday helpings are reflective of the general portion sizes at Home Run – authentic American-style servings, we assume. As in any stateside bar, your meal should begin with an order of jumbo jalapeno poppers (hollowed out peppers stuffed with cheese and spices, then battered and deep-fried, B150) and hot Buffalo wings (B160). Fried, crisped and coated in spicy sauce, the latter is a great way to warm up for the main event: the signature Home Run burger (B 239) and chilli cheese dog (B 239). It goes without saying that the juicy, homemade patty is a delicious mouthful, though we wish the bun was big enough to cope with it. No complaints with the dog though, the perfect accompaniment to the action on TV. There are plenty of other classics to choose from, as well as a number of more formal dishes such as the ‘ultimate’ pork chop (B 340) and scampi (garlic buttered

Le petit zinc

shrimp, B 695). If you’re still hungry, desserts include the New York cheesecake (B 220) and double fudge ice-cream cookie (B 220). Then, as satisfied as a manager sitting on a five run lead, sit back and watch as Costner builds his Field of Dreams… The lesson here is: if you build it, they will come. โฮมรัน สุขุมวิท 31

CHINESE DIN TAI FUNG [map 4 / F4] 7th F, CentralWorld | Rajdamri Rd BTS Chit Lom | 02-646-1282 www.dintaifung.com.tw | 10 am – 10 pm From a distance Din Tai Fung isn’t much to look at. As you get closer, though, and the glassed-in open kitchen comes into view things get more interesting. Thick columns of steam, resembling geysers sprung from the earth, billow upwards from vents over towering stacks of wooden trays. And a dozen or more worker bees in white

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FOOD & DRINKS overalls, masks and hats can be seen busy stuffing and folding. The thing they’re all preparing in this, the laboratory-like nerve centre of Din Tai Fung, are steamed pork dumplings, or xiao long bao. Unmistakably fresh and hygienically made, the plump, intricately folded bundles arrive in sets of six or ten pieces, sagging under the weight of their soup and fillings. And how do they taste? Pretty damn good, it has to be said. Scarf only a few of these hot, delicate, broth-filled mouthfuls – the crack cocaine of steamed dim sum – and it becomes obvious why Din Tai Fung has gained Asia-wide adulation and even a Michelin star (for its Hong Kong outlet) since the original branch opened in Taipei back in 1953. Apart from the dumplings, they also do soups, noodle soups, stir-fry greens and sides, all of which are tasty enough… but nowhere near as addictive as those dreamy xiao long bao. ดิน ไท่ ฟง เซ็นทรัลเวิล์ด

French LE PETIT ZINC [map 3 / H 5] 110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok 02-259-3033 | www.lepetitzinc.com Tue – Sun 11 am – midnight

Muriel and Thomas Dazard left France for a sea change and set up this chic little bistro in July 2011. It hits lots of high notes, from the Art Nouveau ceiling under the mezzanine to cured meats hung from gallows on the bar. Diners sit at stylish bare wood furniture; there’s a faux blackboard wine list; silent movies; and patio windows sliding open to terrace seats. The menu sticks fairly rigidly to stalwarts such as prawn bisque, duck confit, chocolate lava cake and a choice of five cheeses, though there are a few surprises like well made oxtail ravioli in clean, flavoursome beef consommé. In salmon and seabass tartare duo, the latter has a Tahitian twist, served in a glass with coconut soup and coriander. Coquille St Jacques comes with plump scallops and tasty – although oily – leek tossed with pasta. Entrecote – a 200-gram slab of well-cooked medium rare rib-eye served on a wooden board with frites – is the most expensive main dish at B590. Nearly all others come in at B 390. House wines (B125/glass with 50 cl carafes from B 450) are good drinkers, including a dry, light, acidic German Riesling and even a dessert wine by the glass. One of 2011's hot dining trends were casual French eateries and this one – a smart bistro with proper bistro prices – will surely succeed. เลอ เปอตี แซง สุขุมวิท ซ.23

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Indian Indian Hut [map 5 / d 4] 311/2-5 Surawong Rd, opp Manohra Hotel BTS Surasak | 02-635-7876 www.indianhut-bangkok.com | 11 am – 11 pm Far more than just a potentially libelous name, the 14-year-old Indian Hut has been at the forefront of the city’s gradual warming to fine Indian cuisine. Encased in a plush, all-white dining room replete with white linen table clothes and staff in dickie bows, it’s a curry-house with class. Some say it looks a little dated these days, especially given the recent influx of designer Indian restaurants, however few can deny it still delivers the goods. Everything here, from the cardamom seeds to the turmeric and Kingfisher beer, is shipped in from the subcontinent, a policy that gives their full-bodied, consistently delicious Northern fare an authentic edge. Dishes come in generous, meant-tobe-shared portions – the slow marinated chicken tikka is a fall off the bone delight, the lamb rogan josh satisfyingly tender, the naan breads and paneer excellent. They also serve Jain (no onion, garlic or roots), Rajasthani (on request) and Indian-Chinese food. Oh, and scrumptious mango lassis. อินเดียนฮัท ถ.สุรวงศ์ ตรงข้ามรร.มโนราห์

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Sukhumvit 3 (Nana)

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Q Bar

Sukhumvit 11

tue-sat: 11:30 am–3:00 am; sun: 11:30 am–12:00 am; mon: closed (tel. 02-651-3643) 72 | M a rch 2012

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F o o d & Dr i n k s | r e S t a u r a n t s

Puritan

INTERNATIONAL PURITAN [map8 / K7] 46/1 Soi Ari 5 | BTS Ari 02-357-1099 | Sun – Thus 11am-22pm, Fri – Sat 11am-11pm, www.puritan-cake.com We’re very fond of this Soi Ari cakeshop slash restaurant, partly due to its fab homemade cakes, and partly due to the house in which they are served: a snug mini bohemia cluttered with art deco eye candy. Girls ranging from uni gals to office workers seem to be partial, flocking here in the early evening for a nosh-and-natter around one of the four tables flanked by old leather and velvet couches (reservations are a must if you don’t want to sit with other envious stragglers in the courtyard). Bolstering these two draws is a fusion food menu that, like everything else here, is tethered to the whims of Tokyo trained chef and owner Khun Purinat. And, though not on a par with those generous hunks of cake, it’s not half bad. Satisfying comfort foods like baked spinach with cheese star on the chalkboard alongside assertive fusion fare (super-spicy seafood pasta) and the odd bizarre dish (strawberry crème soup). On our visit these and a few other dishes arrived slowly, in fits and bursts, but we didn’t really care – after all, the slower you graze here, the longer you can laze here. ร้านภูริตัน ซ.อารีย์ 5 TINY ROOM [map 3 / S6] 25/5 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) BTS Thong Lo | 02-381-6788 Tue – Sun 11 am – 9 pm The concept of Tiny Room is simple – every morning, former hedge fund manager Inne Yomnak writes up the five dishes of the day on a blackboard, which she then cooks to order. You can choose to sit at one of three two-seater tables, or around the counter that runs at a right bangkok101.com

Tiny Room

angle around the open kitchen. You’ll find no menus, waiters, valets, ushers, or even dishwashers here – just Yomnak and her Tiny Room. She cooks the food she likes, which at the moment is a mix of home-style Western and Japanese comfort food. The appetisers when we visited were the simply dressed but delicious smoked duck and cold beef salads (B 200 each), the latter with a subtle mustard kick. We followed these up by ordering all three mains. The first, mentaiko spaghetti (B190), pasta with marinated cod roe, shoyu, mirin, and chopped green onion, is already a favourite with Thong Lor’s homesick Japanese salarymen. Our party, however, preferred the lighter taste of the ikurai and watercress pasta (B190), the reddish-orange salmon roe providing a more subtle and ultimately pleasing flavour. ไทนี่รูม ทองหล่อ Triplets [map 3 / R 3,4] 6th F, Panjit Tower | 177 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), btw Soi 5 and 7 BTS Thong Lor | 02-712-8066 Wed – Sun 6 pm – 10 pm The triplets of the restaurant name are owners Nuch and Nate and their friendly poodle Barbie, who likes to greet diners as they enter. Nuch and Nate, whose other business is a marketing company, have a plan: “to promote a local food movement in Thailand”. Therefore they use over 90 % local produce at this cheap and cheerful Euro-style bistro. Dishes include lamb stew, using meat from Saraburi, steak lollipops – cubes of tenderloin from Nakhon Pathom, served on sticks with caramel butter sauce – and strawberry pork, with fruit from Chiang Mai. Also, Triplets has only Thai wine. There’s a pleasing informality to this long narrow room – like a student hangout – that creates a homey vibe, with an open kitchen that casts a warm glow over candlelit tables. It’s far more comfortable than the icy aircon in many restaurants. Generally, wise chefs and diners alike welcome local M a rch 2012 | 73

FOOD & DRINKS

Il Tartufo

Rakuza

ingredients, and particularly in a climate of global warming. But Thailand’s expansion into unfamiliar products that have a wider international appeal is very recent, and in terms of quality it’s still advisable, for now at least, to forego beef and lamb for tastier pork and chicken.

Rakuza’s food is as fancy and unconcerned with tradition as its slick glass and steel edifice with a neon blue, club-like entranceway would imply. Chef Yoji Kitayama, formerly of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo, trained in traditional Japanese and modern French, uses his versatility to push the bounds of what Japanese cuisine is and can be. Yes, there’s little plates of kozara (Japanese tapas) and standard sushi and sashimi, including Italian Otoro tuna flown in from Japan’s Tsukiji Fish Market, to keep the old-school happy. But the real surprises here are the mains, Il Tartufo [map 3 / p 4] which are more like French with Japanese 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lor touches than the other way round. On our 02-259-3569 | www.iltartufobangkok.com visit, this included three Tajima Wagyu sirTue – Sun 11:30 am – 2:30 pm, 6 pm – 11 pm loin pinchos served with black truffle sauce, The Italian-trattoria-down-a-leafy-lane is followed by a heavenly melding of melt-ina tried and trusted Bangkok formula. As the-mouth textures: rare grilled premium hinted by its name, this one’s specialty is tuna, scallops and foie gras served with a seasonal truffles. It’s a spacious townhouse balsamic soy sauce. This is exciting food – with a traditional layout: a large room divid- presented haute cuisine style, each dish left ed by mock louvre doors, with a small bar us revelling in the flavours and boggling at at one end, and a little wooden staircase the ingredients and thought that had gone leading to a semi-private area bookable into them. Of course, there’s a pricetag to free of charge for small parties. The homey match, so bring the plastic for this one. cooking fits the setting. Truffle-themed options include tagliatelle with shavings of กราสทองหล่อ ทองหล่อ ซ.10 fresh truffle and chargrilled beef tenderloin with white truffle sauce, but there are also plenty of options if you need a change, including the usual pastas and pizzas. A modest all-Italian wine list starts at B750 a bottle, running to a handful of Barolos around the B12,000 mark, plus six whites and reds by the glass. They also offer bocce (petanque) out back, and retail wines and olive oils, and truffles at cost price if you want to take some home. Lots of parking. อิลทาร์ทูโฟ สุขุมวิท 51

Japanese Rakuza [map 3 /Q2] 264/1 Grass Thonglor Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), between Soi 10 and 12 | BTS Thong Lor 02-714-9897 | Tue – Sun 6 pm – 1 am 74 | M a r c h 2 0 1 2

VEGETARIAN KHUN CHURN [map 3 / v 6] 1st F, Bangkok Mediplex Sukhumvit Soi 42 | BTS Ekamai vegetariankhunchurn.blogspot.com 02-713-6599 | 10.30 – 20.30 One of the best places to enjoy vegetarian takes on traditional Thai food – or arhan jay as it’s called here – is Khun Churn. That’s partly because there aren’t that many choices, but mainly because the owner and chef Khun Churnjuti knows her veggie grub inside out, having founded the phenomenally popular original branch up in Chiang Mai. The menu sports a dizzying array of dishes to graze on, from starters with bite (try the fresh spring rolls) to earthy mushroom salads, faux-meat mains like tofu-lad

Khun churn

en red duck curry and one-meal dishes like khao soy. Flavours are surprisingly sparky given the hard-line healthiness – everything’s organic and free of MSG and sugar, not just meat – and the prices very reasonable considering how slick the pine-encased dining room is. In fact your only gripe may be with the view from your chair or cushioned banquette – of the soulless ground floor of Mediplex, the hiso health mall Khun Churn’s a part of. On the flip, the food’s so good you probably won’t be looking past the tip of your fork much anyway. Heading up to Chiang Mai? Be sure to swing by the original branch, on Nimmanhaemin Soi 17, which pairs the same awesome food with a semi-outdoor modern garden setting. แบงคอกเมดิเพลกซ์ สุขุมวิท 42

VIETNAMESE Dalad [map 8 / L 6] 36/7 Soi Ari (Phahon Yothin Soi 7) BTS Ari | 02-271-2109 | 11 am – 10 pm Everything about this cosy Vietnamese eatery is inviting. From its cute flowery front patio, to its bright and simple vintageinspired interior, comfy atmosphere and mouthwatering menu, Dalad has got everything the Soi Ari lunch and dinner crowds crave. While it’s often true that appearances are deceiving, at Dalad, what you see is what you get. The staff are friendly and the food is fresh, tasty and inexpensive, with generous portions of the classics like pho (soup), pakmor (steamed flour rolls with shrimp) and the popular nem-noung (a set of grilled pork meatballs served with bouquet of fresh herbs and veggies) all coming in at B 60 – 150. A dish you definitely should not miss is the rarely seen kao peak yuan, a Vietnamese round noodle served in thick soup. Those who live in the area can take advantage of the free delivery service. And those who don’t should relish the trip out to Soi Ari, a hip suburb that’s well worth exploring. ดาลัด พหลโยธิน ซ.7 (อารีย์) bangkok101.com

F o o d & Dr i n k s | r e S t a u r a n t s

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FOOD & DRINKS

WINE PUB

Wine review by Max Crosbie-Jones

getting there

Wine Pub [mAP 8 / K 10] 2nd F, Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel Soi Rangnam | BTS Victory Monument 02-680-9999 | www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com Mon – Sun 6 pm – 2 am

Four years on and the Pullman Bangkok’s Wine Pub is still the busiest hotel wine bar in town. What lures all the classy grownups (affluent white collar Thais, plus a smattering of expats and tourists) in to this hip windowless establishment, hidden deep in the bowels of this sleek five-star hotel? Some of the best value food and wine deals in town, that’s what, from Tuesday’s All-You-Can-Eat-Pasta, to Thursday’s 5 Cheese & Cold Cuts, and Saturday’s popular AllYou-Can-Eat Tapas, all three of which throw in a bottle of house plonk (other promotions vary). These creative offers, available from 6 pm – 10 pm each day, have won over the city’s bon viveurs, not just because the vino and grub is of a good provenance, but also because those prices are straight-up. All of the daily promotions here are priced at B 990 net, minus the crafty “++’ (service charge and government tax) mark up – always a sore point at settle up time. Another feature is the dark and very upmarket setting, spotted with close-nit high tables and intimate private booths and soundtracked by slowly building lounge and nu-disco tunes from DJ Baptiste. Recommended is the Cheese & Cold Cuts platter, while those who aren’t left salivating at the prospect of that evening’s deal can choose off an à la carte menu featuring everything from the rich, flavorful lobster bisque soup with puff pastry topping (B 290), to house specials, like grilled snow fish (B 790) and agreeably spiced BBQ pork spare ribs (B 690). A tapas menu with sets of three, six or nine dishes – as well as a 16-dish tapas tree option – is also available. Serious gluggers should also direct their attention towards the striking central glass cabinet, overseen by wine-savvy staff and loaded with countless new and old world bottles, including 24 by the glass. Having tapped into the locals’ love of a good deal, the Wine Pub is sticking wisely to the ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ formula, but recent tweaks have included the addition of organic wines sourced from vineyards across Europe and Australia. Should your skill at pairing plonk with imported cheeses be somewhat lacking, you can now also learn from the masters at their often sell-out wine and cheese classes, held on the last Monday of each month. รร.พูลแมน บางกอก คิงพาวเวอร์ ถ.รางน้ำ�

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F o o d & Dr i n k s | w i n e

diVino Food & Wine Penny’s Balcony Thonglor 16, Sukhumvit 55 Bangkok 10110 Thailand Tel: 027 148 723 www.divinobkk.com

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M a rch 2012 | 77

LOVE BONE at The Pintsman (Photo: Erik Teer)

Nightlife NEWS FUNK ME BABY

one night in Bang kok

Time to dig out those hot pink afros and tie-dye flairs! The Pintsman, a recently opened gastro pub in the basement of Silom Road’s United Center building, is now hosting a 70s theme party, Wanna Funk, every Saturday night. Supplying the soundtrack is Love Bone, a new four-piece who play old school funk standards from the likes of James Brown, Parliament, Bootsy Collins and The Meters. The band has nimble-fingered local travel scribe Joe Cummings on guitar, a Honolulu native, Prince Adi, on drums, and Em Visakha, from acclaimed local indie / funk band Dubberfield, on vocals, while the bassist, Scott Hess from Detroit, spins funk and soul between sets. To keep you groovin’ pints of Asahi and Carlsberg are B100 before 10 pm. www.facebook.com/thepintsman BROWN SUGAR’S BACK Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest jazz venues, Brown Sugar, is back with a March 9 launch party at its new, bigger location near Khao San (469 Phrasumen Rd). Full details weren’t available as we went to print, but the bands lined up so far to jam on the night are Sao Sadung and the Brown Sugar Band. What can you expect from the new venue? According to them, a restaurant and coffee house by day, a live jazz haunt by night. There’ll also be a 200-seat space on the second floor that can host art exhibitions, film screenings, plays, poetry readings, concerts and “whatever else you can think of”. And a monthly ‘Brown Sugar Showcase’ will feature live performances by international touring acts on the last Friday or Saturday of each month. www.facebook.com/brownsugarbangkok SUPER ‘SONIC’

For more nightlife shenanigans flip to Metrobeat, p. 6.

New nightspots in the Ekamai area tend to look the part but disappoint with bland commercial sounds. However, Sonic (90 Soi Ekamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63, formerly Jet | 02-382-3396) is looking to change that by satisfying the cool kids’ thirst for DJs and bands that don’t blast the usual David Guetta-produced hip-hop or covers of sing-along Thai rock and pop. So far they’ve hit the ground running: in February, its opening month, this high-ceilinged modern warehouse played host to trailblazing local indie night Dudesweet, the 3rd anniversary of sporadic Thai folk shindig Paradise Bangkok, as well as a gig by New York indie shoegazers The Pains of Being Pure at Heart. Fingers crossed they can keep the quality control up – and with the crew behind RCA hipster haunt Cosmic Café at the helm, they might just manage it. www.facebook.com/sonic.ekamai

Nightlife

BED SUPPERCLUB

clubs BED SUPPERCLUB [map 3 / C 4] 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 www.bedsupperclub.com | 7:30 pm – 1 am With its uber-modern oval spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-notch talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Big-name DJs tend to spin on Thursdays, house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980 ’s pop hits with house music. เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 CLUB CULTURE [map 7 / J 7] Ratcha Damnoen Klang Rd (behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall) 089-497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com Wed – Sat 8 pm – late Club Culture comes from the same brains behind the city’s annual dance music festival, Culture One. After being evicted from its original home, a former Thai theatre on Phaya Thai Road, it relocated to this gritty four-storey warehouse hidden away in the Old City in early 2010, much to the relief of its regulars – a cross-cultural mix of hipster Thais and discerning expats. Like the old days they promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of indie rock, drum’n’bass and house music of all genres. คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง (หลังนิทรรศ์รัตนโกสินทร์)

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Demo

DEMO [map 3 / R 1] Thong Lor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970 8 pm – 1 am | free Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thong Lor area is Demo: a squat former tenement building turned graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find in East London or some other hipsterville. It sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ. 10 GLOW [Map 3 / G 5] 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 www. glowbkk.com | 6 pm – 1 am This boutique club / bar challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of underground electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website. โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 23 INSOMNIA [Map 3 / F 7] Sukhumvit Soi 12 (between Times Sq and Soi 12) | BTS Nana / Asok www.clubinsomniagroup.com In this busy after-hours joints, LED lasers twirl around a huge main room with a giant disco ball at its centre, and DJs spin electro house out of a throbbing mounted speaker system. Some shady ladies and their hangers-on do head here (do we need to spell it out?), but unlike most of the competition Insomnia is not wall-to-wall swarming with them. Guys pay slightly more than girls: B300. อินซอมเนีย ซ. สุขุมวิท 12

Q Bar

ROUTE 66 [Map 8 / Q 12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue MRT Phetchaburi | www.route66club.com B 200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais on weekends, ‘Route’, as its affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands play in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your mates but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink). รูท 66 อาร์ ซี เอ TAPAS [Map 5 / J 5] Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom 02-632-7982 | www.tapasroom.net 8 pm – 2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hitor-miss (usually miss, it has to be said), but weekends are always hopping from about midnights onwards. And if it’s not, there's always the outside terrace: a great spot to enjoy a few cocktails and some of the best people watching in town. The tipples are mixed strong, and watching this soi’s comings and goings an, erm, eye-opening experience to say the least. ทาปาส สีลม ซ. 4

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N i g htl i fe | C l u bs

THE CLUB [Map 7 / F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan.com 6 pm – 2 am | B 100 (incl. one drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairy-tale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free. เดอะคลับ ข้าวสาร Q BAR [Map 3 / C 4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com 8 pm – 1 am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s also more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Some relative solitude and a pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found up here and on the outdoor terrace, which is perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including burgers brought over from the Firehouse restaurant opposite). คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

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hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3 / F 6, 7] 1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 www.barsubangkok.com | 6 pm – 2 am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. Joining this premium finger food is a menu of creative cocktails priced at B 400 net, live music every Friday and Saturday from 10 pm, plus a slew of specials. Drinks between 5:30 – 8:30 pm on week days go for B 250 and include free hors d’oeuvres, and ladies enjoy drinks for B150 net per glass each Wednesday from 9 pm. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the rotating line-up of live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially lifechanging audition. International / Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge. Check out their Facebook page for news of their popular monthly theme parties and drinks promotions. รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ. 6 ST. REGIS BAR [map 4 / G 7] 12th F, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel 159 Rajadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri 02-207-7777 | www.stregis.com Mo – Fr 10 am – 1 am, Sat & Sun 10 am – 2 am At 6:30 pm each day a butler struts out onto the terrace of The St. Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out onto the terrace. Come for this, and stay for the view. Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horse-racing with a fine malt whisky in hand. The special promotions come thick and fast here: Tuesdays is jazz night, with Johnnie Walker Black Label for B1,990++ per bottle (7 – 11 pm); Wednesdays is two for one martinis (6 – 8 pm); and ladies get free Bellinis on Thursdays (6 – 9 pm).

CM2 [map 4 / D 5] B1 F, Novotel Siam Square 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam 02-209-8888 | www.cm2bkk. com 10 pm – 2 am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in sixteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dancefloor, รร. เดอะ เซนต์ รีจิส กรุงเทพฯ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking

M a rch 2012 | 81

Nightlife

W XYZ

W XYZ [MAP 3 / D6] Aloft Bangkok | 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 BTS Nana | 02-207-7000 alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11 Bangkok’s newest mid-range (i.e. affordable) hotel sits smack bang in the centre of Sukhumvit partyland, directly opposite Bed Supperclub (to which hotel guests get free entrance most nights). No surprise, then, that Aloft is going after the club crowd craving warm-up cocktails with W XYZ, their laidback lounge bar on the lobby floor mezzanine. What is a surprise is that this colourful space featuring funky modular furniture, colour changing glass pane floors, and lots of vivid LED lighting has a talented mixologist who has done stints at the Banyan Tree and V9, and specialises in ‘molecular’ cocktails made using all manner of gels, powders, foams and spray mists. For the ‘Heaven on Earth’, for example, he pours vodka, apple juice, lychee syrup and ginger ale into a champagne glass and freezes the top inch solid using liquid nitrogen – watch it smoke like one of Gandalf ’s potions! Others like the B52+1, which is essentially very boozy ice cream, are more suited to eating than drinking. More reasons to swing by W XYZ include decent finger foods and Thai-style tapas, the happy hours (50% off select drinks and snacks between 5 – 7:30 pm daily), and, for the budding DJs among you, Tuesday’s Pod Play session, when you get to pump your own iPod through the speakers. รร.เอลอฟท์ แบงคอก

Bars with views Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below …

AMOROSA [Map 7 / C 12] 4th F, Arun Residence Hotel 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd 82 | M a rch 2012

red sky bar

(near Wat Po) | 02-221-9158 www.arunresidence.com | 6 pm – 1 am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style open-air bar featuring balmy river breezes, whisper-soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace onto the Chao Phraya River and, on the far banks beyond, Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky. อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

Moon Bar

Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร.บันยันทรี ถ.สาทรใต้ LONG TABLE [Map 3 / H 8] 25th F, 48 Column Bldg | Sukhumvit Soi 16 BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-302-2557-9 NEST [Map 3 / C 4] 9 th F, Le Fenix | 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 www.longtablebangkok.com BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 11 am – 2:00 am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing draw- www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5 pm – 2 am ing Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impos- Nest is the rooftop bar of choice for sibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. Sukhumvit’s international party crowd. An There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor communal dining table so long it makes a of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, it’s a loungey medieval banquet bench look positively and laid-back spot on weekdays and early petite. However, it’s what happens at the evenings, with couples enjoying signature end of the room that propels this place martinis and upmarket bar food from the deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nestthe long table ends, a tall plate glass win- shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a dow and huge poolside patio, complete more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, during special party nights. These include you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails MODE, a shindig every second Saturday or new latitude wines with the best of of the month that pumps hip-hop and high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch house beats rather than the usual smooth of celebrities, models and power players; Balearic sounds. What are the views alike, hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – you ask? With buildings looming above wide-screen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high you, not below you, here you feel part of point. the cityscape rather than detached from it. อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 16

เลอฟินิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

MOON BAR [Map 5 / K, l 8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 www.banyantree.com | 5 pm – 1 am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban

PHRANAKORN BAR Map 7 / G6 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. | 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am When backpacker ghetto Khao San Road wears thin (and it will) flee in search of this multi-level boozer only a five minute walk away. It’s an old favourite of bangkok101.com

N i g htl i fe | bars w i th v i ews

SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5 / C 5] 63rd F, State Tower | 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com 6 pm – 1 am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyondpremium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seaพระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำ�เนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน food eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots RED SKY [Map 4 / F 3] th for the casual beach bum, so be sure to 56 F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | BTS Chit Lom / Siam leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at 02-100-1234 home – a strict smart casual dress code is www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5 pm – 1 am enforced. Given this policy, then, you might Circling the 56th floor turret of Central- think it somewhat ironic that the venue feaWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, tured recently in the gross-out American the al fresco Red Sky offers city panoramas comedy hit, The Hangover Part II. in every direction. Just before sunset is the สเตททาวเวอร์ สีลม time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades to black, and the city lights up like a BARS circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby BARLEY BISTRO [map 5 / H 5] back pork ribs, and martinis, cocktails and 4st F, Food Channel | Silom Rd, wines are on hand to keep you company between Soi 5 and 7 | BTS Sala Daeng while your eyes roam the scenery. Daily 087-033-3919 | www.barleybistro.com happy hours (50 % off selected wines, 5 pm – late beers and cocktails between 5 – 7 pm) and This multi-level resto-bar, hidden up some prompt, smooth service make the experi- stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of ence all the more enjoyable. franchise-like restaurants, is one very slick, snazzy spot. The design is chic (blacks รร.เซ็นทาร่าแกรนด์ แอท and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.พระราม 1 drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube

local art students and creatives, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over rickety oldcity rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is also cheap as chips, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side. In the evenings there’s usually at least one vintage VW beetle parked outside.

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cocktails etc); the food newfangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by buildings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures and perfect for postwork/ pre-club cocktails. Live bands play in the bar most nights. บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม

CAFÉ TRIO [map 4 / H 6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | BTS Chit Lom 02-252- 6572 | 6 pm – 1 am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and head 50 m down the road. คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3 / D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-253-4648 | Mon – Sat 5 pm – midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and

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Nightlife

clouds

tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little Subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub. ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก) CLOUDS [ Map 3 / Q2] 1st F, SeenSpace | 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lo 02-185-2365 | www.cloudslounge.com Having shaken up Thonglor's bar scene with his first two concoctions, Iron Fairies and Fat Gut'z, his third is as we've come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of Thong Lor’s SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leaf-encasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls, and later on a DJ spins acid jazz while a female dancer sits atop one of the blocks, calmly polishing her gun and blowing bubbles. They also serve tasty misshapen pizzas, which are cooked in a gas-oven and served in steel trays. It’s not yet a big crowd-puller, but the result is enjoyably bizarre: part ultramodern mausoleum to nature, part space-station drinking hole.

HYDE & SEEK

The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The three restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian, Misaki serving Japanese, and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices. Stay in the Bar and order from the snack menu instead. And have another Japanese Slipper. เฟซแบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.38

FAT GUT’Z [map 3 / Q2] 264 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz.com 6 pm – 2 am A place to see and be seen, this sleek saloon is packed nightly with a crowd of beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the already legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named – and here’s the rub – after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular order is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two). Made from an old famคลาวด์ โครงการการซีสเปซ ily recipe, it comes served in a wooden tub, ซ.ทองหล่อ 13 turning a takeaway staple into finger food. Tucking in as we listened to the blues band FACE BANGKOK [ Map 3 / S 7] play on the tiny stage, and observed the hi29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | BTS Thong Lo so crowd sipping politely on their aquatic02-713-6048 | www.facebars.com inspired cocktails, it was obvious that this 11:30 am – 1 am bar is an unusual, albeit successful blend of Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually ingredients. stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55 and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. 84 | M a rch 2012

the iron fairies

HYDE & SEEK [Map 4 / L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee BTS Phloen Chit | 02-168-5152 www.hydeandseek.com | 11 am – 1 am This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-meup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas. In sum, Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the huge market for high quality drinks and food at middle prices. It's busy with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead. แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี ROLLING BAR [Map 7 / J 5] Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 Mon – Sat 6 pm – 2 am A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road beckons you to find out what is going on below the street line. Descend a few stairs and in a quiet corner by the water you will find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled with a mixed assortment of retro decor and various model Cadillac cars. Here, every night you can hear familiar old folk and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popular Thai favourites, but the bar offers you a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, Sheeva Wop; a must try. โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ bangkok101.com

N i g htl i fe | B ar R ev i ew

getting there

Marshmallow

Marshmallow [map 4 / C5] 33/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-254-1971 Facebook: Marshmallow | 11 am – 1 am

Bar review by Max Crosbie-Jones

You’d expect the first bar by one of Bangkok’s best known DJs, long-time Bed Supperclub resident Fred Jungo, to be a loud, pumping house, but that’s not the case. “I don’t want Marshmallow to be one of those bars where the DJ gets more and more carried away until customers can’t hear themselves speak,” the Swiss says, speaking from bitter experience no doubt.

The same goes for the drinks list, which has been created not by some mega-bucks mixologist but Fred and Marshmallow’s other partner, the owner of the Thai restaurant opposite. Not that we’re complaining. If they were asking top dollar (some of the competition charge B300 for their tipples) the lack of bar talent and flair would be something to gripe about – but they’re not.

This scrap-the-DJ policy is a bold move – especially given that another bar in the area, the French-run Oskar Bistro, is cranking up the levels each night and doing very nicely. But it may also the right one, given that Sukhumvit’s foreignerorientated party soi is, in our opinion, reaching a saturation point whereby new venues should be filling niches, not muscling in on them.

Cocktails come in at a very reasonable B190; champagne and sparkling cocktails B220; local beers B90. No complaints with the libations themselves either, especially rumbased ones like the capirinha with sake and mojitos (always a good benchmark for judging the bartender’s handiwork). Both were refreshing and very tasty indeed, the latter having none of the muddiness common to inferior versions (Bangkok pearl of wisdom No. 128: never order one at a On our visit the space, the corner building where Soi 11 street bar). turns left towards Q Bar, was all but finished, with only the floors, currently painted a jarring white, left to do. A raised “Food was never meant to be the focus,” Fred told us. Howterrace with seating wraps around its perimeter, beside tall ever, judging by the dishes we tucked in to – three Fine de steel and glass doors that are fully retractable. On cooler Clares (B290) with condiments, a bright and fresh haloumi days and evenings, the plan is to open them up and let cheese salad, a slab of Australian tenderloin with mash and breezes waft through. boiled veg (B550) – it could, with a little tweaking here and there, become their forte. All in all, Marshmallow is an afTo evict the ghosts of ventures past (previous incarnations fordable and brilliantly located (in Soi 11 clubber terms) spot Diva and Welfare were both dismal failures), they’ve gutfor drinks and bites: a bar we’ll be coming back to. ted the interior. Dark wood-planks now line the walls and pillars. There’s an intimate mezzanine; a mirror and metal- มาร์ชเมลโล่ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 work-backed bar; and a bohemian touch/cliché, bird cage lamps, dangling over the tables at one end. A stylish space, then, but nothing you haven’t seen before. bangkok101.com

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SHADES OF RETRO

TUBA [Map 8 / S 1 4] 34 Room 11 – 12A, Soi Cham Chun (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02-711-5500 www.design-athome.com | 11 am – 2 am Some come to this two-storey furniture store to snag a comfy sofa, vintage sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, Tuba works best as a bar, as the unusual setting and generous Happy Hour (buy one get one free between 5 -8 pm daily) mean there really are few cooler places in town to kick back after work with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases – the glassware can be that big!). Owned by the same hoarders behind Lad Phrao furniture warehouse Papaya, it features room upon room of haphazardly arranged eye-candy, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. A word to the wise: one cocktail too many and you may leave with more than you bargained for. Another caveat worth bearing in mind: smokers are allowed to puff away at Tuba, and many seem to come here to do just that. ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21) THE IRON FAIRIES [Map 3 / Q 2] 394 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), Thong Lor Soi 12 | BTS Thong Lo 084-520-2301 | www.theironfairies.com Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry – yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves – that just happens to serve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam film-set. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers start from B 120 a bottle, a well mixed dirty martini goes for B 280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine. ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

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WTF

VIVA AVIV

SHADES OF RETRO [Map 8 / s 1 4] Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | BTS Thong Lo | 081-824-8011 | 3 pm – 1 am | cash only Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thong Lor spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture store-café, Shades provides a quiet hangout for the writer/ designer/artiste crowd by day, fun peoplewatching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully.

only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a pleasant riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. In the main room, pulleys hang over the central bar made of salvaged wood, yards from a huge mounted moose's head. And the other, with its leather sofas, rusting anchors and other nautical knick-knacks, could pass for Jaco Sparrow's front room (if he had one). While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar is being looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them underpinned with rum (tequila is so last year, apparently), come in slightly cheaper เฉดส์ ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมย์ 2 ทองหล่อ than over at Hyde & Seek, B250. Weekly specials go for B199, along with wine by the WONG’S PLACE [Map 8 / L 17] glass, during the daily 4-8pm happy hours. 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Soi Ngam Duplee, Food tip: the risotto-filled croquet balls near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini with yoghurt dip are a must. Keep an eye 02-286-1558 | Mon – Sat 10 pm – late on their Facebook page for news of new It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in specials and 'Kolour Sundays', their shadesbusiness. It’s not near any public transport; down and racuous Sunday DJ barbeques. opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops อาคารริเวอร์ซิตี้ เจริญกรุง ซ.30 in 1985 ; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living WTF [Map 3 / Q 6] room. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lo of expat journalists, English teachers, hip- 02- 626-6246 | www.wtfbangkok.com sters, creative Thais and professional bar- Tue – Sun 6 pm – 1 am / gallery from 3 pm flies who have been coming here for years This tiny shophouse – signposted by grafand regard owner Sam as a kind of benevo- fiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street lent dictator, knowing better than to take opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, advantage of the beer fridges honour sys- decked out with mirrors along one wall, tem. Come before midnight and it’s usu- old Thai movie posters on the other, and ally pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the found items like wooden screen doors and wong time?). Come after the other bars chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from (an art manager, hotelier and photographer Silom – and watch the night unfold. by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as VIVA AVIV [map 5 / C2] Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect River City – Unit 118 | 23 Trok occasional live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 and a mix of indie hipsters, journos and art02-639-6305 | www.vivaaviv.com scensters to chew the fat with. 11am – midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ. 51 bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not bangkok101.com

Nightlife

BRICK BAR

RAINTREE PUB

COSMIC CAFE [Map 8 / Q 12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 LIVE MUSIC The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in Performances by top international a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outbands might be thin on the ground here, door seating and a small dance floor. On but there are a clutch of venues where one night you might the place jumping, as decent live music can be heard. Much, the Paradise Bangkok DJs host a rare live if not all of it, is world-class. performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon. On another a house band dishADHERE the 13TH [Map 7 / G 3] ing out some surf guitar, ska, electronica 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it 089- 769-4613 | 5 pm – midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, coolest hangouts is nothing more than an from skinny jeaned art-school hipster types aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must. instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find คอสมิค คาเฟ่ อาร์ซีเอ on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road RAINTREE PUB [Map 8 / K 10] (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this 116 / 63 - 34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs BTS Victory Monument ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, 02-245-7230, 081-926-1604 expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk www.raintreepub.com | 5 pm – 1 am when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapJoplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues sule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once would never sing Hotel California. phenomenally popular 1970’s folk protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politiแอดเฮีย 13 ถ.สามเสน บางลำ�ภู cally disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, BRICK BAR [Map 7 / G 6] two artists strum nightly: a long-haired 265 Khaosan Rd | 02-629-4477 singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30 pm, www.brickbarkhaosan.com a grizzled band steps up at around 11 pm. Mon – Sun 7 pm – 1am | Mon – Thu free / Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 Fri – Sat B150 incl. one drink Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge years ago and has changed little since. And shopping arcade, this dark and airy red- why should she? The people are friendly, brick vault features benches downstairs, an the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the upstairs terrace for people or band watch- music, made famous by household names ing and plenty of nooks and crannies to par- like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring. ty in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced twentysomethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town, expect to be clinking whisky glasses with new friends all night. บริคบาร์ ถ.ข้าวสาร

88 | M a rch 2012

เรนทรีผับ ซ.ร่วมจิต ถ.รางน้ำ�

BAMBOO BAR

eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal. It’s a hike and not exactly easy to find, but worth it. ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์ SAXOPHONE PUB [Map 8 / K 10] 3 / 8 Phaya Thai Rd BTS Victory Monument | 02-246-5472 www.saxophonepub.com | 6 pm – 2 am Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Attracting youngish Thais and the odd foreigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, wood-filled floors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare. All the local live music scene greats have played here and many still pop by when they can. แซ๊กโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2 /E11] 462 / 61 Rama III Rd | Yan Nawa district 02- 678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas. Great for large groups, especially birthday parties and office outings, but make sure you reserve ahead for the best tables nearest the stage.

PARKING TOYS [MAP 2 / G5] 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) Lat Phrao district | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6 pm – 1am Inside this ex-garage out in the northern โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3 suburbs it’s pure sensory overload. Wallto-wall retro furniture becomes instant

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N i g htl i fe | L i ve m u s i c & ja z z cl u bs

Jazz clubs Click your fingers like a hepcat at one of the following respected live jazz venues. Some are all elegant and sultry, others as raw and gritty as that old crooner's voice.

BAMBOO BAR [Map 5 / B4] The Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com Sun – Thu 11 am – 1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am – 2 am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Cynthia Utterbach. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ.โอเรียลเต็ล DIPLOMAT BAR [Map 4 / K7] Conrad Bangkok 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com Sun-Thu 6 pm – 1 am, Fri & Sat 6 pm – 2 am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but

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always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-onefree Happy Hour from 4 – 7 pm (standard drinks only). It's very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ THE LIVING ROOM [Map 4 / F6] Sheraton Grande | 250 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com 10 am – 12:30 am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The highceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Throughout Feb, The Living Room plays host to Alice Day alongside the Shawn Kelley Trio, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9 to 11:45 pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 pm to 12:15 am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร. เชอราตันแกรนด์ สุขุมวิท Niu ’s on Silom [Map 5 / E5] 2nd F, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am

This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for various international acts who perform regularly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring established overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม Tokyo Joe’s [Map 3 / N8] 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 8 am – late / music Thu – Sun from 9 pm | 02-661-0359, 087-925-4105 When Tokyo Joe’s closed at the end of 2009 it left a huge hole in the Sukhumvit blues scene, so there was much rejoicing when it reopened last October. Bands play on a stage at the back of the room and there's a forecourt out front with bar. Furnishings inside are sparse, with a few functional tables and, on the walls, posters of musicians and events Tokyo Joe’s hosted in the past, such as the annual Bangkok Blues Festival, which is also planned for a relaunch later this year. The current lineup includes a rotating headliner on Fridays and the Soi Dog Blues Band on Saturdays. Sundays is an jam session open to anyone who brings an instrument. The bar is stocked with the usual suspects and the full food menu includes fancy items like duck confit and spaghetti al salmon as well as typical bar snacks like sandwiches, fries and Thai salads. Spartan but kicking, Tokyo Joe’s is back: a gritty bar that plays the blues. โตเกียว โจส์ สุขุมวิท ซ.26

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Nightlife

Balcony humidor

cigar lounges Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar [map 4 / H 4] Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 8 am – 1 am Club Perdomo Bangkok [Map 3 / O 7] 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 www.clubperdomobangkok.com 6 pm – midnight La Casa del Habano [Map 5 / B4] Mandarin Oriental | 48 Oriental Avenue 02-267-1596 | www.pacificcigar.com/eng/location Mon – Thu 10 am – 10 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 11 pm, Sun & public holidays noon – 6 pm | P&L Club [Map 4 / L 7] GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place 87 Wireless Rd | 02-685-3898 Mon – Thu 10 am – 10 pm, Fri – Sat 10 am – 11 pm, Sun noon – 6 pm 90 | M a rch 2012

THE Robin Hood Pub review

With a prime spot in the expat enclave around Phrom Phong BTS it is no surprise that this pub has a loyal band of merry regulars. It keeps them happy by following an unfussy formula of affordable beers, dark wood décor and live sports on 12 screens. Split over two floors, the open plan downstairs offers ‘faux Tudor’ patterned bench seats or heavy wood tables to sit and sup an imported beer whilst stills from various Robin Hood movies remind you where you are. Upstairs the mezzanine has a more intimate lounge feel, with a pool table, comfy leather sofas and oak paneled walls. Whilst a little cliché it still does enough to stand out from its rivals. For a start, the happy hours from 4-7pm everyday see pints of beer going from just B80, and 50% off selected bottles. Punters can also enjoy regular live music, namely soul, pop and rock on courtesy of local Thai band Vertigo on Wednesdays from 8pm. The international and Thai food is also worth a try with weekly specials and classics like toad in the hole and fish and chips. เดอะโรบินฮู้ด สุขุมวิท ซ.33/1

getting there

The Robin Hood [map 3/ L 6] Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3390 www.robinhoodbangkok.com | 10 am – midnight bangkok101.com

N i g htl i fe | C i g ar L o u n g es & P u bs

pubs 101

HANRAHANS [Map 3 / C 7] Sukhumvit Soi 4 l BTS Nana 02-255-0644-5 | 9 am – 1am

PUB Crawl

JAMESON’S [Map 5 / D 5] Gr. F Holiday Inn Silom 981 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak 02-266-7703-5 | 10 am – 1 am MOLLY MALONE’S [Map 5 / J 5] 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-7160 9 am – 1 am O’REILLYS [Map 5 /K 5] 62/1-4 Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-632-7515 | 9 am – 2 am The BARBICAN [Map 5 / K 4] 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-234-3590 | 11:30 am – 1 am THE BLACK SWAN [Map 3 / G 6] 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit 02-229-4542 | 8 am – midnight The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L 6] Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4444 11:30 am – 1 am BULLY’S [Map 3 / B 7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 2 / 4 BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 | 11 am – 1am THE DUBLINER [Map 3 / K 7] 440 Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-1841/2 9 am – 1 am THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON [Map 5 / J 5]

SILOM AREA

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [ Map 5 / K5 ] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-toearth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [ Map 5 / K5] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowds of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, Molly Malone’s [Map 5 / J5] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5 pm – 9 pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [Map 5 / J5] . Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer including John Smith’s, Beer Lao and Guinness, a daily happy hour from 4 pm – 9 pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [Map 5 / D5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but sill packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hour, including ladies’ night on Tuesday featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B 29 a glass.

SUKHUMVIT AREA

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [Map 3 / L6] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L6], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. The Londoner [Map 3 / L6] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [Map 3 / K7], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [Map 3 / G6], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a pedestrian sub-street of Soi 11 lined with international restaurants is The Pickled Liver [Map 3 / C5]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [Map 3 / C7] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

SHOPPING

MERRY-GOES-AROUND by Disaya Spring / Summer 2012

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NEW COLLECTION: ‘merry-goes-around’ by Disaya London-trained Disaya Sorakraikitikul first caught the attention of the international fashion world back in 2007, and has since gone on to see her girly threads stocked at prestigious retailers scattered across the globe, including Harrods and Harvey Nichols. She’s been worn by Jennifer Lopez, Kelly Osbourne and even the late Amy Winehouse, who chose a Disaya printed chiffon strapless dress to wear on the cover for her smash 2006 album Back to Black. While not a huge departure, her new Spring Summer collection ‘Merry Goes Around’ looks set to continue her ascent with a range of ready-to-wear day and evening wear that draws inspiration from, of all whimsical things, the funfair. Bozo the Clown-style frills and ruffles appear on silk chiffon blouses and dresses. Fireworks end up as trails of hand-sewn flower sequins and crystal embroidery on satin. And sun-kissed summer days spent blowing bubbles in the fields become blips of minuscule floral embroidery on lightweight polka dot cottons. This blissed-out collection also features simple, summery pastels (think full moon yellow, moonlight rose, purple sunset, twilight blue, sunrise orange) as well as three patterns – ‘rainbow bubbles’, ‘luminous love sparkler’ and ‘carnival kaleidoscope’– that epitomise the theme. Plus, there’s a collection of fun Disaya jewelry to match, one that morphs circus mascots such as ponies, lions, camels and elephants into elaborate and very cute handpainted enamel pieces. available at:

Buy Thai

SHOPPING

TRINKETS GALORE

MALL CRAWL by Annette Heile

Terminal 21’s third floor is an Istanbul-themed treasurechest When Terminal 21 opened last October, our dismay at the opening of yet another mall disappeared the second we discovered that its upper levels are focused on small, unique shops and stalls catering to the young and hip rather than the usual mass-market chains. One floor is dedicated entirely to girls, another the guys, while our focus this month, the Istanbul-themed 3rd, is packed full of accessories and interior tidbits – great for gift and souvenir shopping! Check out our favourites and then go discover some of your own.

Arting

3rd F / Istanbul | 02-108-0200 | www.artingart.com It’s a table, it’s a picture to hang on the wall – and it’s a whiteboard. The guys at Arting call their creation a ‘Pictable’. Basically, it’s a metal table with foldable legs and a picture digitally printed on its top and sealed under acrylic lamination. Thanks to the teakwood frame it makes a really artsy impression on your wall and thanks to its sturdy legs you can enjoy dinner with your friends around it! Coffee tables (30 cm high) start at B 1,800, dining tables range from B 1,900 – B 8,500. If you prefer your own design, bring a picture file and your very own table will be ready to pick up two weeks later.

Breathe

3rd F / Istanbul | 081-633-1092 (owner Khun Kay) www.oopsstuff.com Scents of Thailand are on sale at Breathe. No, not the bottled stench of tuk-tuk exhaust fumes but the smell of frangipani and orchid and other exotic scents that remind you of your last pampering session at your local spa. Proprietor Kay Tachaputthapong has captured these smells in sachets, aroma stones and scented oils. They come in the form of little textile animals that can be dangled from the rearview mirror in your car (B 290 – 360), scented stones for your wardrobe (B 310), or in a variety of diffusers (from B 520). The artificial flowers or small wooden twigs soak up the scented oil from the porcelain vase and make your room smell dreamy for up to three months.

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Labrador

3rd F / Istanbul | 081-804-0452 | www.labradorfactory.net Specialising in leather accessories featuring minimalistic and timeless designs, Labrador is a highlight of Terminal 21’s lush and colourful Istanbul floor. It’s all about simple chic, quality and usability (they have even received several Thai design awards for this approach). We like the soft touch of the suede leather sleeves (in 5 different sizes, B 420 – 1290) and the quality feel of the organizers (B 590 – 890), luggage tags (B 490) and travel document purses (B 650 and B 990). The latest innovation is a product line made from lightweight recycled leather imported from Germany. Everything else is designed and handmade in Thailand using Thai materials.

Mavi Boncuk

3rd F / Istanbul | 02-108-0857 One of the few shops that lives up to the third floor’s Istanbul theme is the Mavi Boncuk (literally: blue beads) store owned by Turkish businessman Cevat Yilmaz. Whereas Thailand is well known for creating and exporting home décor and fashion jewelry items, he saw an opportunity to bring a taste of Middle Eastern culture and beauty to Bangkok with his handmade glass mosaic lamps (from B 5,000) and blue glass bead objects (from B 400). The latter lent their name to the shop, he says, and are regarded as traditional Turkish talismans – so if your Thai amulet collection isn’t bringing you the good luck it should be you know where to come!

Reflections

3rd F / Istanbul | 02-108-0961| www.reflections-thai.com The used rice bags collected by Khun Anusorn and his team find a second career as funky bags, totes, pencil cases and backpacks. Light, sturdy and colourful these make great travel companions or gifts – be it the make-up pouch for B 70, the set of three round pencil cases for B 150, or the roomy and water-resistant shoulder bags from B 250. The founder and designer of Reflections, Khun Anusorn, calls it “global trash chic” and has over the last ten years ventured out further – he’s well known on the local design scene for his recycling of other materials (old leather jackets, etc), his kitsch Thai restaurants (including one at Terminal 21), and his eco-friendly resorts. bangkok101.com

S H O P P I N G | M all C rawl

TERMINAL 21 TIP: DON'T MISS THE fun, JAPANESE-STYLE TOILETS THAT WASH AND BLOW DRY YOUR POSTERIOR AT THE PUSH OF A BUTTON. BLISS!

getting there

Terminal 21 Sukhumvit Soi 19 (Wattana), Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit www.terminal21.co.th | 10 am – 10 pm bangkok101.com

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SHOPPING

Jatujak Market

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere The rest can go and get lost – literally.

Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover B1,950 The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove.

ตลาดนัดจตุจักร 96 | M a rch 2012

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S H O P P I N G | J J g em of the month

JJ Gem of the MOnth by Amornsri Tresarannukul

New Collection It’s impossible to walk past New Collection and not take a second glance at its handmade goodies. Especially eye-catching are it’s decorative bamboo coil bowls, beautifully inlaid with seashell and lacquered. People tend to think that bamboo can only be used to make elongated objects, but these are made by peeling the malleable wood into strips and looping it into a bowl-shape. Other bamboo items found on the shelves, stacked on the floor, or dangling from the ceiling include bowls without the seashell finish, salad forks and spoons, and wind chimes. Hemp and water hyacinth baskets, bags and table mats, ceramic vases with vibrant glazes, and a menagerie of animals made from coconut shells (a warning: the tame looking buffaloes are too cute to resist) round off New Collection’s selection of quality local arts and crafts, all of which are in the affordable B300-4,000 price bracket.

getting there

Section 1: Beside MRT Kampangpetch Station, Exit no.2 | 02-948-5071-3; 081-812-1994

Soi

Antiques and Collectibles 1, 26 Art and Gallery 7 Books 1, 27 Ceramics 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 25 Clothing, Accessories 2 – 6, 10 – 26 Handicrafts 8 – 11 Food and Beverage 2 – 4, 23 – 27 Furniture, Decorations 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 Misc 2 – 6, 22, 25, 26 Pets and Accessories 8, 9, 11, 13 Plants and Tools 3, 4

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Chatuchak

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SHOPPING

Floating markets Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose.

Markets & SIDEWALKS While the fancy designer, air-conditioned malls of Siam grab much of the attention, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, there’s no better way to discover the local retail experience than by heading to one of the city’s many interesting markets or sidewalks.

Khao San Road [map 7 / F, g 5, 6] Banglamphu Every evening (except Monday) baby-faced entrepreneurs splay out their funky wares all along the legendary budget traveler strip. ถ.ข้าวสาร PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) [map 7 / E 14] Chakphet Rd | Phra Nakorn A round-the-clock hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. ปากคลองตลาด

DAMNOEN SADUAK [map 1 / D 6] getting there by bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6 am 02-435-5031 or 434-5558 Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two Ratchada Night Market [map 8 / Q2] hours by car or bus, plus a 15-30 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao tourists descend upon the market at 9am intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek or – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded Ladphrao | Fri & Sat Nights option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via (busiest on Saturday) Vendors at this teen-thronged Saturday flea water taxi from the pier on the east side of market flog retro and secondhand stuff, Khlong Thong Lang. from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to ตลาดน้ำ�ดำ�เนินสะดวก vintage. Flashlight essential. TALING CHAN [map 2 / A8] ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา getting there by bus: take bus # 79 or # 83 to Taling Chan Silom Road / Patpong [map 5 / J, K 5] district Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom Silom Road gets going between 6 pm and 02-424-5448 or 02-424-1712 2 am, when stalls catering to tourists set up For a kinder, gentler introduction to the here and along the notorious strip of sleazy world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most gogo bars known as Patpong. tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์ governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60 th birthday, Taling Sukhumvit Road [map 3 / D – g 6] Chan also offers live performances of traSukhumvit Rd (start around Sukhumvit ditional Thai music from 11am-2pm, and Soi 4, Nana) | BTS Nana / MRT Sukhumvit is lined with boats preparing and serving The touristy trinkets and pirate DVDs start authentic Thai delicacies. The market only around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so both sides of the major thoroughfare, and make sure to plan accordingly. stretch nearly to Soi 19. ตลาดน้ำ�ตลิ่งชัน ถ.สุขุมวิท

KHLONG THOM [map 6 / C, D 2] Long before there was Ratchada or Talad Rot Fai, there was Khlong Thom: the origi- TALAT ROT FAI nal Saturday night flea market. (THE TRAIN MARKET) [map 8 / L 3] Kamphaeng Phet Rd ตลาดคลองถม MRT Kamphaeng Phet Sat & Sun 6 pm – midnight NAKHORN KASEM [map 6 / D, E 3] Known locally as the “thieves market”, this Antique lovers and retro-mad hipsters flock smallish street-side market in Chinatown to this plot of State Railway department offers a curious blend of second-hand land to bargain for collectibles, reproducgoods, the odd antique, and a random tions and vintage fashion. Even if you're out to shop, it's a great place to hang out. assortment of household appliances.

AMPHAWA [map 1 / D6] getting there by car: drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram. The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram. Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to the more famous markets (although you'll find plenty of the Thai ตลาดรถไฟ นครเกษม equivalent). The old wooden houses that line its sides are treasure troves of cute Thai THEWET [map 8 / D 8] Pratunam [map 4 / F 1] knickknacks, t-shirts, postcards and snacks. Samsen Rd | Phra Nakorn Phetchaburi Rd, Ratchathewi Make sure to take a boat down the canal Not far north from the flower market is the BTS Ratchathewi after dusk, when the lights from the riverA short walk from CentralWorld, this teem- riverside plant market. The street is lined houses gleam and the fireflies come out to with small shops selling a wide selection of ing sidewalk is famed for its cheap bulk play, especially during the rainy season. tropical potted flora. clothing deals on textiles, jeans and more. ตลาดน้ำ�อัมพวา เทเวศน์ ประตูน้ำ� 98 | M a rch 2012

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S H O P P I N G | M arkets

Market Focus

by Max Crosbie-Jones

KHLONG THOM

BY Krittana Khurana

You never know what you’re going to find here... Battered 1950s signage. Some beautiful teak gables salvaged from an old house. A pristine copy of Whitney Houston’s first LP buried in a box of obscure Thai folk and pop. Starwars figurines still in their original packaging. A banana shaped home telephone from the 1980s. Some old grandpa’s watch or coin Its name means ‘landfill canal’, a reference to its location on collection. the site of an old one that was paved over. Few can tell you exactly where it starts and ends, but roughly speaking the What really gives mass appeal though is its unpretentiousmarket occupies a square area boxed in by four main roads on ness. Unlike the other aforementioned Saturday night marthe northern fringes of Chinatown: Luang, Worachak, Charo- kets, Khlong Thom is not such a contrived hipster that it engkrung and Sieuh Pah. All taxi drivers know it, but many frowns on the knick-knacks and essentials the city's downavoid it, as the traffic can be terrible and often stays that way home types actually need too, like cheap underwear, shonky Chinese-made stereo equipment, or even a spare hose and until the small hours of Sunday, when it ends. noozle for your toilet's leaky butt-sprayer. Come here on Saturday afternoon and you’ll find its already bustling, as there are many electrical appliance stores in the Khlong Thom is worth a troll around even if you’re not out vicinity, but it’s not until 8 or 9pm that the secondhand side to spend. However, if you are prepared to flash some cash, of things really gets going. While the outskirts are quieter, always take a close look at what you’re buying, bargain and good to roam down, some alleys and sidewalks get clogged beware pickpockets. with bargain hunters waving flashlights (many know it as the flashlight market). getting there This city’s obsession with all things retro may be most in evidence at hipster markets like Talad Rot Fai and Ratchada, but Klong Thom is still the original Saturday night flea market. And arguably the source of the best bargains (many vendors at the former buy their vintage wares here).

Khlong Thom [MAP 6 / C,D 2] Between Luang, Worachak, Charoengkrung and Sieuh Pah Roads | 6:30pm-dawn every Saturday

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W ELL N E S S

Dahra Beauty & Spa

Massage & Spa Bangkok probably offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. In each issue we help you find the best rub-down for your baht, there’s no need to break the bank in order to get a good treatment.

ROYAL NATURAL SPA [map 5 / J 4] 878 Rama 4 Rd | MRT Silom / MRT Sam Yan / BTS Sala Daeng 02-637-1032-3 | www.royalnaturalspa.com 10:30am–8pm | $$$ Hmm…opulent or over the top? Royal Natural Spa takes its moniker seriously, which results in Thai décor with an ornate, “royal European” touch – brocade, jacquard, chandeliers, you name it. The spa is expansive, with huge, luxurious rooms – once you start steaming away in your own gilded birdcage of a shower-sauna, you may decide…opulent, indeed. Services make good use of the natural part of the name, drawing on Thai herbs and fruits – you may get scrubbed down with plai, lemongrass, and ginger, and then basted with a tamarind paste. Packages are creative, well-conceived and change on a monthly basis, so there’s always something new for the spa fanatic. Therapists are expertly thorough and communicate clearly, ensuring that the whole experience is luxurious and polished without being snobbish in the least. Royal and natural – why aren’t more spas like this?

Harn Heritage spa

Hydrotherapy’, which sounds somewhat self-defeating. I opted for a Shiatsu, which was mercifully nicer than it sounded. Seriously, though, the menu at this cute two-storey spa, which is tucked next to the Triple Two Hotel, is extensive enough to rival the choice offered by more upmarket establishments – and the damage is a mere snip by comparison. Plus, for each spa package sold Dahra’s eco-conscious Dutch owner plants a tree via PATT Foundation (www.plant-a-tree-today.org) ดาห์หร่า บิวตี้ & สปา ถ.สีลม

รอยัลเนเชอรัลสปา ถ.พระราม 4

HARNN HERITAGE SPA [map 4 / D 4] 4th F, Siam Paragon | BTS Siam 02-610-9715-6 | 10am-9pm | $$$ Before you drop from shopping at the monster mall that is the Paragon, stop in here for a spot of soothing. An extension of the high-end Harnn beauty product line, this tiny spa is all Thai, all the time, and offers excellent, traditional therapies. Done up entirely in black stone, the rooms are small but high-ceilinged to compensate for tight quarters. Despite the excellent layout, however, rooms can feel cramped and crypt-like. Once a treatment begins, any claustrophobia melts away – the signature package, which includes a thorough sesame scrub, a very relaxing oil massage, and a hot sesame compress applied to key meridians on the body, is a very complete pampering session. Staffs are wonderfully professional and personable. Done relaxing? Pick up some Harnn products to continue the spa experience at home.

DAHRA BEAUTY & SPA [map 5 / g 5] 154 / 8-9 Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi 02-235-4811-2 | www.dahra-spa.com 10am-11pm | $$ It’s a tribute to the glowing health of the local industry, or perhaps Bangkok’s status as a regional spa hub, when a small outfit such as this one can offer a whopping 17-page treatment menu. That’s a whole 17-pages of slack-eyed indulgence, including the intriguing likes of the ‘Desincrusting Aromatherapy Facial’, and ‘Chocolate

LAVANA [map 3 / F 7] 4 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-229-4510-2 9 am – 11:30 pm | $$$ Lavana does its treatments right. Spa options are refreshingly clear-cut, and primarily focused on massage. Scrubs and facials are also available, along with the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil treatment, in which warm oil is drizzled along the “third eye” in the forehead and massaged

100 | M a rch 2012

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

Lavana

into the head and neck. Those seeking a tidier signature option should choose the herbal ball oil massage – Lavana’s dedicated therapists manage to pack a restful eternity into a well-priced 90 minutes. Masseuses combine long Swedish and sports-massage strokes with very detailed work on problem areas – they take computer-knotted shoulders and other ailments as a matter of personal concern, and banish those tweaks and twinges with wonderfully intense kneading and muscle release work. The deep-tissue work can border on painful, but therapists are careful to adjust to your responses. ลาวาน่าสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.12 REFRESH 24 [MAP 3 / N 9] 43 Sukumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-259-7235-7 | www.refresh24spa.com 9.30 am – 1 am | $ One of Sukhumvit’s biggest, this 25-room manor of rubdown magic is located just down the road from Emporium mall – head here for a post mall-blitz recovery sesh. Instead of the exotic Thai overkill that prevails in spas here, this slick new-build has a plush neo-vintage look, with Louis XV-style furniture adorning the lobby and Victorian-style skirting boards lining the rooms and corridors. It’s different, but elegant, calming. The menu is similarly understated, dabbling mostly in unflashy rubs and scrubs, though there are packages and a selection of Jurlique and Algoane facials available. Of the offerings, the hot oil massage is our pick – this 90-minuter melds Thai, Balinese and other styles to snooze inducing effect. Pair it with a cereal compress (B600 extra) and you’ll leave supple, scented, but not at all sticky. รีเฟรช 24 สุขุมวิท ซ.24 Spa costs

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ bangkok101.com

practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B 9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B 59,000 (spa development course). ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES

Massage schools WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL [map 7 / D 12] 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02- 622-3533 | www.watpomassage. com | 8 am – 5 pm | B 8,500 / 30 hrs Any good traditional Thai masseuse will have undergone their training here. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30 -hour course can be completed in five, six or ten

days; a foot reflexology course, among others, is available too. You can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, open-sided salas for just B 360 / hour. โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ.สนามชัย

INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE [map 7 / C8] Wat Mahathat | Na Phra Lan Rd 02-222-6011 | www.mcu.ac.th/IBMC free (donations welcome) This is the most traditional, non-commercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1 – 4 pm, 6 – 8 pm, 7 – 10 pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well.

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY [map 3 / U5] Modern Town Building | 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai 02-711-5270 | www.chivasomacademy.com from B 9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and สำ�นักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ

Signature treatment:

Red Wine Spa Package Tall and slim, Avanti’s Beauty & Spa in Thong Lo emulates every girl’s dream; its long corridor is three stories high and equipped with five private rooms, which can accommodate your every beauty need. The Red Wine Body Treatment allows you to channel Dionysus for a luxurious two hours. Cleverly using all parts of the fruit, it starts out with a twenty-minute grape seed body mask. Then comes the full body scrub, which helps to exfoliate dead cells, leaving your skin a blank new slate ready to absorb all the red wine extracts have to offer. A word to the wise, don’t shave immediately before as it might cause a little irritation. Next, believe it or not, you are left to soak in a red wine filled Jacuzzi. And even though your teeth are never safe, you can be sure the extracts won’t stain your skin. They act as natural antioxidants to assist in the never ending battle against aging. This is all topped off with a red wine oil aroma massage that smells so good you just might think you’re edible. The vinotherapy treatment gives you a taste of luxury and leaves you soft and supple, thinking maybe you are the next goddess of wine. อาวันติบิวตี้แอนด์สปา ทองหล่อ ซ. 5 – ซ. 7 bangkok101.com

getting there

AVANTI BEAUTY & Spa map 4 / R 3 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), between Soi 5 / 7 BTS Thong Lo | 02-0712-7784; 089-927-3661 www.avantispathailand.com | 9 am – 11:30 pm B2,900 M a rch 2012 | 101

getting there

RAIL SKYTRAIN (BTS) The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B 40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts. co.th SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Airport Rail Link A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150 as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th bangkok101.com

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, RIVER motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with tuk-tuks, fares CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep should be negotiated beforehand. canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng TAXI Bangkok has thousands of University. However, you have to be metered, air-con taxis available quick to board them as they don’t 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the usually wait around. Canal (khlong) first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in boats tend to be frequent and cost B 2 increments. Be sure the driver around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought switches the meter on. No tipping, onboard. Note that the piers are a lit- but rounding the fare up to the neartle hidden away, which makes them est B 5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is sometimes difficult to find. baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s expressway toll fees. When boarding vast network of inter-city waterways from the queue outside the termioffer a quick and colourful alternal, an additional B 50 surcharge is native for getting around the city. added. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge three-wheeled up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some TUK-TUK Those 30 main piers altogether. Fares range taxis (or samlor) are best known as from B 9 to B 32 depending on the tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr distance, while tickets can either of their engines. A 10-minute ride be bought on the boat or at the pier, should cost around B 40, but always depending on how much time you bargain before boarding. Beware: if have. Boats depart every 20 minutes a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup Cross-river services operate through- that will lead you to an overpriced out the day from each pier for just B 3. souvenir or jewellery shop. M a rch 2012 | 103

REFERENCE

Map 1 Greater Bangkok A

Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 > D

L MYANMAR

Muang Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

Chiang Mai

LOP BURI

Muang Nakhon Ratchasima

Nakhon Ratchasima

ANG THONG

Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang

NAKHON RATCHASIM A

SARABURI

Andaman Sea

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Koh Samui

AYUTTHAYA

Phuket

PATHUM THANI 5

RATCHABURI

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

MALAYSIA

PRACHIN BURI

f c

Krabi

NAKHON NAYOK

NAKHON PATHOM

Ubon

Bangkok

Udon Thani

Lop Buri

Muang Kanchanaburi

LAOS

THAILAND

SING BURI

SUPHAN BURI

KANCHANABURI

SA KAEO

BANGKOK f a

SAMUT 2 SAKHON

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT

1 PRAKAN d

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CA M BODI A CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Koh Sichang

PHETCHABURI 8

Pattaya RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Koh Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10

Trat

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Koh Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan

Koh Kut

20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

104 | M a rch 2012

Sightseeing a

Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park

floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1

Museums

Nightlife 1 2

Parking Toys Tawandang German

Hotels

1 Anantara Bangkok Erawan Museum Riverside Resort and Spa House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods 1

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Tanya Tanee

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Northpark

Bang Khen

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

MUENG NONTHABURI

Thanont

Chatuchak Bang Sue

Phayathat

Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Pathumwan

Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Thon Buri

Bang Kholaem

Chom Thong Bang Bon

Huai Khwang

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang

Khlong Toei

Sathorn

60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Watthana

Lumpini

Wang Thong lang

DinDaeng

Taling Chan

Mini Buri

Navatanee

Mo Chit

Dusit

Khan na Yao

Bueng Kum

Chatuchak

Bang Sue

Bang Phlat

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao

Prawet Yan 2 Nawa

Rat Burana

Phra Khanong 4

Phra Pradaeng

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Bang Na

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

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M a rch 2012 | 105

REFERENCE

Map 3 Sukhumvit Road

Su kh

rom

um vit

n Po

i4 9/

om hr

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Hotels 1

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malls

Arts & Culture

Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 Emporium

Japan Foundation Koi Art Gallery 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre 6 Nang Kwak 7 WTF 8 The Pickture Gallery

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106 | M a rch 2012

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4 oi

1 on

kk ai

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Sukhumvit Ekkamai

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Soi

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Clubs 1

Q Bar 2 Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo

pubs 11

14 15

The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver The Robin Hood The Royal Oak The Londoner Black Swan

bangkok101.com

Nightlife 4

Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Tokyo Joe's 18 Club Perdomo 20 The Iron Fairies 21 Clouds 22 Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino

Embassies

IN India IR Iran LK Sri

aw a

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PH Philippines QA Qatar UA Ukraine NO Norway

M a rch 2012 | 107

REFERENCE

Map 4 Siam / Cit Lom A

5 Soi 3

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 25

Soi 29

Soi Tonson

Henri Dunant

Soi Lang Suan

Soi Nai Lert 15

Soi 2 Soi 3

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 3

Ratchadamri

Soi 4

Soi 5

Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels 1

Pathumwan Princess Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 2

200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

Arts & Culture 1

BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery

108 | M a rch 2012

Sarasin

Soi 6

Soi 7

Soi Ruam Rudi

Sarasin Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

malls

MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place

Jim Thomson House Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussads d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine b

Nightlife a CM2 b

Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c

Embassies CH Switzerland BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US USA VN Vietnam

Shopping 16 17

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Soi R

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Soi 5

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Wat Pathum Wanaram

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Srapathum Palace

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Soi 20

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Phetchab

Soi 22

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Siam Square Pratunam Market

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Silom / Sathorn Map 5 E

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Royal Bangkok Sports Club

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Chulalongkorn Hospital

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Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai Surasak King Mongkut’s University of Technology

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Wat Muang Khae 1 1Wat Suwan

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Hua Lamphong

Si Phraya

Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

ung

Na 3

Charo

Nak roen

te E x

hon

2a Khlong San

Tak s

ang

Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai

5 MY

MX GR

7 Soi 1

Soi Saw

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya

Soi 5

Naradhiwas Raj

as Naradhiwind Rajanagar ra

C N

Soi 12

Soi Wanit 2

DE DK

Suan

Phlu 6

Ph Suan

Soi Nantha

lu 8

Immigration Office

Hotels 1

bars with views

a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton Nightlife 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn b La Casa Del Habano 9 All Seasons Sathorn c Bamboo Bar 10 Sofitel f Niu's on Silom 11 Le Meridien g Barley Bistro & Bar 12 Crown Plaza j Eat Me k Tapas Bangkok Lumpini 13 Banyan Tree 14 Dusit Thani Pubs 15 The Sukothai e Jameson's h The Duke of Wellington l Molly Malone's m The Barbican n O'Reilly's

Arts & Culture 1

Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise

Shopping 1

Robinsons 2 River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store

AT Austria AU Australia BE Belgium

200 m

BT Bhutan

1 000 ft

CA Canada DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MY Malaysia MX Mexico

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan

Sightseeing a b

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Embassies

DE Germany

Snake Farm M.R. Kukrit’s House M a rch 2012 | 109

REFERENCE

Map 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A

M ai

Ba n D ok

h1u li n

itri

r ad

M it tr ph an

Hua Lamphong

Ch aro en Ya ow a r at K r So

3 h

g j i1

Y So i 3

So ng Saw at

Rama IV Y

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Y So i 9

Pl an g N am

So i 18

So i 6

S oi 4

Tr i M si ang

S ong W

a n it 1

S oi W

ur han

So i 16

So i 21

on M an gk

So i 19

Soi 14 Y Soi 15

Soi 8 Y Soi 17

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

Soi 17

Su ap a Ratch awon g

Y S 10 CK S 12

ang

ut an P h Sa p h

t Phu

han

ae n

S ap

Phu

han

Tha Din Daeng

S ap

Memorial Bridge

200 m 1 000 ft River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Hotels

Temples

Markets

Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion

Wat Ratburana School Wat Pra Phiren c Wat Bophit Phimuk d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphanthawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha)

Long Krasuang Market Ban Mo ( Hi-Fi Market) 3 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 4 Yot Phimai Market 5 Pahurat –Indian Fabric Market 6 Sampeng Market 7 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 8 Khlong Tom Market 9 Talat Kao (Old Market) 10 Talat Mai (New Market)

Arts & Culture 1

Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum 3 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 2

Sightseeing

j Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

110 | M a rch 2012

w Ta

Marine Dept.

et i Ph pir

R at

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Rajchawongse

la n g

o nM 3

i So

Th S oi

g wo n

Y Soi 11

Ch aiy aphun

Y Soi 23

Ma ha Ch ak d

Rachi ni Atsad ang

it 1

A nu

Sam peng Lane – Soi Wan

Trok Itsaranuphap

Ma ngkon

at hur5 Pha

Lu ean Rit

Soi 8

Soi 10

ha r ap

4 oi

itri

D Din

Yaow

t ar a

Soi Aner Keng

ip Th

So i 15

So i 11

9 S oi

6 i So

Ch ak kr aw at

gs Ran

C ha kp he

P ok

Pha

ru nK 1

i5 Tr

t Yo

So i 13

h at Bo

Charoen Krun g

iP S ir

Ti 5

rip

ai Ch ha Ma

an ak Ugn

n ho

o Tr

Romaneenart Park

a iph

K h lo n

t P h ir

i S ir

Wa Thom

k Wor ac ha

Si Thamm athirat

Lua h at

Trok

Sida

S oi C

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refere n ce | B a n gk o k cit y M ap 6 / 7

Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A

Rama VIII Bridge

its

VII

et md

ata

ha e Ka iC

ok noe Dam Rat

cha

Dinso

Memorial Bridge

Maha

Boriphat

Chai

ara

hit

Bat

Wo rach ak

ng A

Ch ak kr aw at

Yao w

im uk

Wat Wat Bophit Chakrawat Phimuk

wat kkra Cha

Son

gW at

mW at

Phi

ren

g 13

Ya ow a

Anu

won g

aw on g

Market Tot Phimai Market

Soi B an

Ti Thong

ng O

Soi Mahannop 2

Unakan Siri Phong

Chai ng

aro

tch

Cha kph e Pak Khlong t

Ya i k ko ng Ba

apho

Kh N

So iW at Ka nla ya

Wat Liap

Ma ha Ch an k

Ta l lo

Wat Kanlayannamit

lon

Phir

Tri Ph e

Set

Rajinee

g lon Kh

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an thak

i So

Sri

n ari Am un Ar

Phahurat Ban Mo

Soi

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam

Wat Saket

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Luan

Bor iph at

Che

Saphan Phut

at har Ma

Wat Arun

n pho

Soi Sirip at

Sam Yot

Trok Phan um

Lan Luang

Muang

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa Song Soi Long Tha

Saw

Phan Fah Leelard

Bumrung

Wat Suthat

Burapha

Tha Tien

Rat

Soi Siric hai 2 Soi Siric hai 1

Ch ak ra Ph sem et

Wat Pho

mran

Charoen Krung

Soi Phra ya Si

i Sanam Cha

Tha

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Saranrom Park

ng i Wa

Trok Sukha 2

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

n kho

ng Rak

g Tai

City Hall

Trok Sukha1

isut

Grand Palace

Damro

Klan

Wat Ratchanatdaram

uang

Fuang Nakhon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Wat

Tanao

Buranasat

aitri

Wat Ratchapradit

noen

Trok Ratchanatdaram Sin

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Chao Phraya

Trok Nava

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Ph ra Po kk lao

Tha Chang

Phraeng Nara

Lak Mueang

Na Phra Lan

Democracy Monument

Mahannop

hrut

K Trok

ei Na Hap Pho

Trok W

Soi Silipakorn

Bunsiri

g Nuea

Klang

Trok hep T Sath hida ien Ram

Tri Phet

Wat Rakhang

lang Tai

k Khro lonSgake L ot W at T

ee Rachin ang d a ts A

Ratcha Damn oen N ai

ra Tha

Sanam Luang

Khlo

noen K

Maharat

Wat Mahathat

noen Klan

noen

Silpokaorn University N

Soi Dam

Na Ph

Amulet Market

Tro k

Dinso

an a Dam

a Ch

Tr ok

i ttr

Wang Lang

Bowonniwet ViHara

Ratch

Thammasart University Maharaj Ph r

aos

an T ula

ap h

iS am Ph long sen ra 2 Su Bang me L Wat n amp

p sa Ka

Pin ra Ph

ais

Tan i

m Ra

ok Tr

t de m So ge rid

aB National Museum

iW or

kr aP

ray Ph

National Arts Gallery

National Theatre

Wat Chana Songkhram

o ha

Maha

ttr

R oi

Pra cha T

asa

C et md

Thonburi N11 Thonburi Railway Railway

tK isu

Phra Atith

hip

Khlong Bangkok Noi

ith

a hr

Sam

s en

Kl 12

se g an Ka Lu g k un Lu Kr

Pin ra Ph

Wat Saodung

Phra Pin Klao Bridge

an ulo

Rajchawongse

M a rch 2012 | 111

REFERENCE

MY Bangkok Daniel Fraser

Canadian Daniel Fraser first came to Thailand in 1995 to teach English, but not like most foreigners do. He was invited to teach at the Royal Family’s Chitralada Palace under the direction of HRH Princess Sirindhorn. From these noble beginnings he’s gone on to even bigger things, founding local adventure travel company Smiling Albino and gaining work as a travel consultant, television presenter and Thai film star. Recently, dishy Dan has even found fame – and legions of adoring female fans – as the host of Long Krung (หลงกรุง), a local TV travel show in which he delves into Thai culture using his infectious enthusiasm and fluent Thai.

Best place for a drink The upstairs balcony lounge at Q Bar. It is a fantastic mix of great people, great vibes and cool music. It mixes fine shisha hookahs and French vodka with hip DJ music of all genres – and you can actually hear yourself talk! It is a place that I often go to “start” a night out… and end up staying all night.

ate peace and quiet here despite it being in the Sathorn/ Silom area. I’ve gone with clients, and alone, and each time emerged like a new soul. Great little space – I hope it never changes!

Best place to impress a date I’m a history buff, so I’ll have to choose the balcony view on the top floor of The Deck at Arun Residence Hotel. Here you’ll Best place to eat find an outstanding – and romantic – view of the Chao Phraya The street! All Bangkok foodies know it – and it can’t be deRiver and Wat Arun, one of the city’s oldest and most iconic nied that Bangkok’s soul food is found curbside. However, if temples. you want to escape the heat or the rain then a great Bangkok dining experience is Face Bar. The ambiance is half the price Best place for a real Bangkok experience tag with a series of gorgeous Thai pavilions and rare collectiSaphan Phut at nighttime. The Memorial Bridge, as it’s known bles from around Asia. The food is mixed – from Indian to in English, is a wild hive of Bangkok activity, from steet food Japanese to Lanna Thai. Speak to the waiters to get it done up vendors to teenage market stalls to classic architecture to with a little spice and local edge. vegetable markets and loud music. From here, take a walk 200 metres into the dark corners of the Flower Market along the Best place to take visitors riverside. This part of town is the real Bangkok – the behindThe Rattanakosin area at night is amazing – so much richer the-scenes machinations of a great city at work and play. than during the day. This may sound crazy as most of the Make sure you bring along an appetite, a good pair of walking venues are closed, but the experience of walking around the shoes, and a sense of adventure. royal district and old Sino-Thai shop houses at night near Wat Po and the Flower Market is great. The major landmarks are — illuminated, and you can catch intimate glimpses of cornerThe Shortlist stones like Lak Muang, The Giant Swing and the old canal network. Face 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 | www.facebars.com Best place to shop Q Bar Pratunam, with JJ Market coming a close second. Pratunam 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com is easy to get to and has a huge variety of stuff – especially funky streetwear by cool local designers. If being over- Ruen Nuad whelmed in outdoor markets freaks you out, then at least Pra- 2nd F, 42 Soi Convent | 02-632-2662 tunam has some nice coffee bars and cafes to tuck in to. Techy The Deck havens like Panthip are also within arm’s reach. 3rd F, Arun Residence | 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com Best place to relax Ruen Nuad, a lovely old Thai-Portuguese house that doubles

as one of the city’s top massage centers. Somehow they cre-

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