The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.
( 2 minute walk )
PUBLISHER’S LETTER “No man is an island.” So wrote seventeenth-century English poet John Donne, alluding to the fact that we humans cannot live in isolation; we depend on one another to get by. And so, in this issue, you can depend on us to give you the low-down on, fittingly enough, some of the best island destinations in the Gulf of Thailand. Scuba diving off Koh Tao. Partying on Koh Phangan and Samui, and then recovering at one of their many wellness centres. Getting physical on Koh Chang. Chilling out on Koh Samet, the island favoured by the denizens of Bangkok. Thailand’s Gulf is blessed with an abundance of verdant, sandy jewels, each with its own forte. As we enter “Green Season,” now is a great time to pay them a visit. This month, we also highlight the goings on at La Fête, Bangkok’s annual Gallic arts and culture jamboree. Its centrepiece is sure to be choreographer Jitti Chompee’s song and dance renovation of Bizet’s opera Les Pêcheurs de Perles, which you can read more about in the Arts section. In keeping with the French vein, the recent openings of The Glass and Le Boeuf have lent an Old World accent to the city’s dining scene. Check out these reviews and more in Food & Drink. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
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JUNE 2015 | 3
CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde editor
Craig Sauers associate editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
An American by birth, MICHAEL MOORE has spent over half of his life living overseas; first as an international school teacher and administrator and then as a freelance writer and editor. He has contributed to a variety of news and lifestyle publications, including Travel & Leisure, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and numerous inflight magazines. Although he covers a variety of topics, he particularly loves writing about food and wine.
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Nan Tohchoodee, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Laurence Civil contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. S E P T E MJ U BN E RE 22001145 | 5
CONTENTS 32
42 46
60
CITY PULSE
ART & CULTURE
SHOPPING
8 metro beat
58 exhibition highlights
104 new collection:
12 hot plates: the glass
60 interview: jitti
kloset’s ‘holiday
14 making merit:
chompee
heartbreaker’
displaced and dynamic
62 cheat notes 64 photo feature:
SNAPSHOTS
104
la fête
16 tom’s two satang 18 joe’s bangkok
FOOD & DRINK
20 bizarre thailand
70 food & drink news
22 very thai
72 meal deals
24 temples, historic
73 restaurant reviews:
buildings, museums
yuutaro, fireplace grill, garibaldi’s, prai raya, la
106 tailor listings
TRAVEL
boeuf, savelberg
108 unique boutique:
28 up country now
82 in the kitchen: luca
boogie and the beach
32 running wild:
appino
koh chang
83 eat like nym
WELLNESS
36 going deep: koh tao
84 restaurant listings
110 kempinski the spa
42 the spirit of samui
50 75
111 spa listings
46 hotel review:
NIGHTLIFE
w retreat samui
92 nightlife news
REFERENCE
50 islands: wellness
94 review: nikki beach,
112 my bangkok: nooror
retreats
24 owls
somany steppe
54 bangkok’s beach:
98 nightlife listings
koh samet
ON THE COVER Reflecting on wellness: late afternoon yoga on a secluded island beach. (Image courtesy of Kamalaya, Koh Samui).
6 | JUNE 2015
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CITY PU LSE
metro beat
ON THE ROAD
by Craig Sauers
ROCK & POP Samed in Love, Paradox On June 6, Koh Samed does what it does best: party. Starting at 5pm, Samed in Love 6 brings beats, breaks, and riffs to the tiny island for ten solid hours. On the docket are Walrus, Lomosonic, Scrubb, Boom Boom Cash, Gancore Club, Potato, Paradox, 25 Hours, and Mild. Enjoy a little sun, hope the rain holds out, and go buck wild to Thai hip-hop, rock, and dance music. Tickets cost B1200 apiece and are available at all Thai Ticket Major outlets. For more information, visit facebook.com/ samedinlove.
Blue What? Backstreet Boys weren’t enough? The nostalgia wave continues as turn-of-the-century British boy band Blue visit Bangkok on June 13, turning the Thunder Dome (Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd) into a sentimental swoon pit. The quartet — all now in their mid-30s — will no doubt relive the glory days of “All Rise” and “One Love,” but they’ll also be singing new tracks off their March release, “Colours.” Tickets range from B2000 to B6500. For more information, check thaiticketmajor.com. Fatty’s Bar & Diner (598/66 Asoke-Dindaeng Rd), a wild Wisconsin-leaning dive near MRT Phra Ram IX, introduces Clem Snide Live on June 19. Singer-songwriter Eef Barzelay, a well-travelled artist born in Israel and raised in the US, is best known for his alt-country outfit Clem Snide. This show, however, will likely feature bits and pieces from Barzelay’s other albums, which include an EP of Journey covers and a 10-song collection titled “Girls Come First.” Tickets are limited. For more information, visit facebook.com/fattysbardiner. Arrive early and enjoy some mac n’ cheese or chicken wings. 8 | JUNE 2015
The Queen’s Cup Golf Tournament Go and see the pros in action at The Queen’s Cup Golf Tournament. Or, if you’re confident in your abilities, sign up for the special pro-am tournament and prove your mettle. From June 18-21, the 18-hole Santiburi Samui Country Club welcomes the world’s big swingers, playing its part in the larger Asian Tour. The prize purse is USD 300,000 — high enough to attract top-level players, but not so high as to attract the world’s greatest; nevertheless, this annual event has placed Thailand on the global stage. bangkok101.com
metro beat
CITY PU LSE
ELECTRONIC On June 12, the Road to Ultra stops over at BITEC (BTS Bang Na). Big-name acts in the EDM scene, including Knife Party, Laidback Luke, and Alesso, take the stage in the lead up to one of the world’s most highly anticipated music festivals, Ultra. Unlike its big brother in Miami, Road to Ultra is held indoors rather than out and lasts one day rather than three. Nevertheless, it’s a full-on spectacle, complete with lasers, pyrotechnics, and pretty party people. Tickets cost B2800. For more information, visit facebook.com/ ultrathailand. Get your EDM weekend started at Levels (Sukhumvit 11), where Dutch revelation Jay Hardaway takes the decks on June 11. Best known for “Wizard” and “Error 404,” two hit collaborations with Martin Garrix, Hardaway makes his first appearance in Thailand as an established solo act — his first solo single, “Bootcamp,” garnered 1.8 million views on YouTube in its first month. Doors open at 9pm. For more information, contact info@epicbangkok.com or andylevels on LINE.
Laidback Luke
Dimitri from Paris caters to sophisticated clubbers at Vault (Sukhumvit 11) on June 27. The bearded and bespectacled French disc jockey spins “suave and bespoke” dance music, often influenced by disco and funk, a subgenre that pairs nicely with the Vault’s urbane group dynamics. The dapper gentleman has recorded soundtracks for the likes of Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Tickets cost B1000 (includes one drink). For more information, please visit facebook.com/vaultbangkok.
EXPOS You’ve seen him on TV. You’ve read about him in magazines and newspapers. Now, meet the dog whispering legend himself, Cesar Millan, on June 3 at Royal Paragon Hall (5th floor, Siam Paragon). As part of his world-wide “Love Your Dogs Tour,” Millan will provide training tips and techniques to a captivated audience. He will also dish out live demonstrations, all of which will help dog owners trust in and achieve harmony with their furry best friends. One part educational, another part entertainment, the show starts at 7.30pm. Tickets are priced at B2000. For more information, please visit thaiticketmajor.com or call 0 2262 3838. From June 28-30, the Thailand International Dog Show will delight dog owners and, really, let’s not kid ourselves, all fans of cute, little frou-frou creatures in the city. The expo promises a variety of shows and shopping deals. It’s a good bet for those in need of specific pet toys or grooming products. There will also be a handful of special breed competitions, à la the movie “Best in Show.” So channel your inner Gerry and Cookie Fleck and head over to Muang Thong Thani (99 Popular Rd). For more information, please visit thailand-dogshow.com or call 0 2833 5109 or 0 2833 5349. bangkok101.com
Thailand International Dog Show JUNE 2015 | 9
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
CLASSICAL PERFORMANCES The Gift of Life Foundation and Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Lat Phrao 41 Alley) present an evening of classic sonatas performed by Pana Yontararak (piano) and Tapalin Charoensuk (cello). On June 21, the acclaimed Thai composers give their rendition of Brahms, Schumann, and Shostakovich. The show begins at 4pm and tickets cost B700, with proceeds going to the Gift of Life Foundation to help needy blood disease patients in Thailand. For reservations, contact Sala Sudasiri Sobha at 0 2541 8662 or 08 0407 8231, or visit salasudasirisobha.com.
THEATRE Emotions bent and bled into each other when the earthquake and tsunami rattled Japan in 2011. Girl X, an award-winning original play by Hanchu-Yuei, examines the atmosphere of Japanese society following the tragedy through images and text projected into a living room scene. The show has been adapted by Democrazy Theatre Studio (Soi Saphan Khoo, Rama IV Rd) to include subversive dance, expressing through motion the battered emotions of modern-day Japan. Tickets at the door cost B350, with early-bird prices set at B300. For more information, call 08 1441 5718 or email democrazytheatre@gmail.com.
Puppet and Object Theatre
Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra brings the buzzing sounds of twentieth century America to its symphony hall (Mahidol University, Salaya) on June 5 and 6. Conductor Russell Guyver and pianist Gerald Robbins lead the cast as they bring to life the music of George Gershwin, Julia Lake Bozone, and John Adams. The show on June 5 kicks off at 7pm, with a pre-concert talk held in the Prince Mahidol Hall at 6.15pm. The next day, the show moves up to 4pm, with the talk held at 3.15pm. Ticket prices range from B100 (student price) to B500. For reservations, call 0 2800 2525-34 ext. 153-154 or visit thaiticketmajor.com. Liebeslieder, Johannes Brahms’s famous catalogue of love songs, will liven up the auditorium at The Geothe Institut (Sathorn Soi 1) on June 6. The Bangkok Music Society Choir will be conducted by Saranya Saratham, accompanied by Nick Curror and Alberto Firrincieli. The performance will also feature pianist Ramasoon Sitayalan and violinist Napat Nanasombat. Tickets will be available at the door (cash only); B600 for general admission, B500 for members, and B300 for students. For more information, visit bangkokmusicsociety.org or email contactus@ bangkokmusicsociety.org. 10 | JUNE 2015
Srinakarinwirot University (Sukhumvit Soi 21) welcomes Sue Buckmaster to campus for a three-day puppetry and theatre workshop, part of the Arts on Location International Workshop. From June 19-21, the puppet master will share advanced tips and techniques on manipulating objects, starting with everyday items and moving up to puppets. This is a unique opportunity to learn from one of the UK’s leading puppeteers, whose prolific résumé includes ground-breaking work in experimental theatre for children. Buckmaster’s classes typically sell out, so grab your tickets early. The fee for the weekend courses is B7500. To apply, please contact application@ artsonlocation.net.
RUNNING On June 14, the 4th edition of The Rainbow Run, held in Lumpini Park, raises funds for The Rainbow Room Foundation, which spreads positive awareness of those living with special needs in Thailand. With a message of, “Be Different, Be Kind,” the run — 2.5k, 5k, 7.5k, 10k, and a 50-metre kids’ fun dash — encourages us all to be more inclusive and welcoming. Registration costs B300 and includes a colourful t-shirt. All finishers get a medal. For more information, check facebook. com/therainbowrun or call 0 2023 2396. Stretch those sore legs. The Supersports 10 Miles International Run is back in Bangkok on June 14. Join thousands of other runners striding down the roads around CentralWorld, racing 10, 5, or 2 miles (16k, 8k, and 3.2k, respectively). There are major cash prizes for the winners — prizes which usually bring out stiff competition, and therefore finishing times well under an hour for the 10-mile race — and medals and shirts for everyone. For more information, check amazingfield.net. bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
hot plates
The Glass Bangkok By Craig Sauers
T
wo Thai actresses sit at a corner table. Soft citrine light illuminates their pale faces. They’re slim, made-up, beautiful, and famous, the kind of girls you might expect to find at a place like this. They share a plate of charcuterie, the cold, spiced meat matched with short pours of a Rhone Valley red. When dry, a waiter comes around with two glasses of a sweet white wine siphoned from a bottle that stands tall and regal inside a temperature-controlled chamber. The Glass: wine on tap — wine when you want it, how you want it, and where you want it. When the wine bug bit Bangkok, speciality venues came into the fold, offering well-priced glasses and bottles, pairing them with urbane foreign food. The Glass, a sleek new establishment in Ekamai, fits into this preconfigured niche as a barbistro, where the city’s nouveau riche and cosmopolites mingle over good food and drink. The experience, however, is modified. The menu of French classics includes suggested pairings — wines in 3cl, 6cl, and 12cl measures, decanted from one of 36 bottles on a special tap constructed in the centre of the room — letting amateurs and connoisseurs travel as far into French territory as they wish. The aforementioned cold cut platter (B690/B990 with two glasses of wine) is a standard partner for wine. Here, it offers a soft landing for novices and a palate perk for oenophiles. Most will move on to a starter, like foie gras terrine (B490), which is made in-house, and pair it with a Riesling, contrasting the rich, off-pink pâté while gradually turning up the intensity of the spirit. Frog legs sautéed with garlic, parsley, and butter (B590) is an adventure for some, a fond memory for others. In any case, the legs are done right. Though the size of a ring finger, each contains a wave of juices that releases when bitten; cracked black pepper and a sprinkle of sea salt marry the flavours. The taupe chicken wing-sized legs come with a circle of warm tomato compote that unites the plate. It’s a partner-in-waiting for dry red wine. Duck confit salardaise (B490) achieves the same effect, reinforcing the flavours of Gascony with succulent fried fowl and wafer-thin potatoes cooked in duck fact and garlic. But, like the young actresses, not everyone is a wine expert or familiar with French cuisine. That’s where The Glass shines. Guests can pick from a collection of wines they may have thought they would never taste. Owner Luc Busin has plans to provide a member card that, like the ever-present Rabbit Card, can be topped up and used at leisure. Those who have never tried a Corton-Charlemagne, for example, can revel in an exquisite 3cl pour with the mere swipe of a card, no doubt bragging to friends about the experience later. The kitchen coheres to the manifesto, as well. Even at dessert, a glass of Busin’s own rosé champagne pairs with thin, folded crêpes covered in Cointreau and orange sauce (B250), the combination itself a selfselected education of France.
THE GLASS BANGKOK 8/8 Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 0 2108 8982 theglassbangkok.co.th | Sun-Thurs 11.30am-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-11pm
12 | JUNE 2015
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J U N E 2014 | 13
Making Merit
Photos by Peter Biro/IRC
CITY PU LSE
14 | J U N E 2015
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Making Merit
CITY PU LSE
Displaced and Dynamic Harnessing the Potential of Thailand’s Largest Migrant Population for a Better, Brighter Future
I
t’s likely that we’ve all met a migrant worker from Myanmar. Probably working in a restaurant, bar, or hotel — that, at least, is the stereotype. But have we stopped to think about why these migrants are here, what they’d like to do with their lives, and how we could be working with them to build a more united community that benefits all of us? There are currently around 110,000 displaced people and an estimated three million migrants from Myanmar living in Thailand. This population makes up the largest chunk of the Myanmar diaspora in the world. With its size and social proximity, this group of people offers huge potential for Thailand’s economic and social development. The term “displaced people” refers to those who have been displaced by years of war, land-related conflicts, or natural disasters (as well as other factors), and who have fled — in this case, from Myanmar to Thailand — seeking safety and security. The 110,000 displaced people in Thailand live in nine temporary shelters along the ThailandMyanmar border, supported by the Thai authorities until conditions in Myanmar become suitable for their return home. Because they’re not legally permitted to leave the shelters without approval, they rely on organizations like the International Rescue Committee (IRC) for vital humanitarian support in areas such as healthcare, education, and legal protection. “Migrants,” on the other hand, are those who have crossed into Thailand primarily to escape poverty back home and find better jobs and welfare prospects for them and their families. Migrants live in towns and cities like Bangkok — hence the reason we’ve all met a few. The majority of migrants are vulnerable, particularly since many aren’t registered legally as “migrant workers,” though the Thai authorities have mechanisms in place for them to do so. They often face discrimination, exploitation, and significant restrictions on their basic rights like access to income, education, healthcare, and legal representation. The IRC, on top of providing ongoing humanitarian support, works with displaced people and registered migrants to help secure their futures through skill training for employment — employment in Thailand, Myanmar, or elsewhere. The IRC has had a presence in Thailand since 1976. At the request of Albert Einstein, it began working globally in 1933. Today, the IRC works in over 40 countries, including those experiencing some of the worst humanitarian crises of our time, like Syria and South Sudan. The situation is different in Myanmar, of course, although it is home to the longest-running civil war in the world, one spanning over 60 years. bangkok101.com
But there is hope. Thanks to unprecedented economic development, elections on the horizon, the lifting of sanctions, the surge in foreign investment, and a recent signing of a draft by President Thein Sein and ethnic leaders that agrees to a nationwide ceasefire, now is an exciting time for Myanmar — not to mention for Thailand, which seeks to strengthen its relationship with Myanmar as the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) begins. Such developments will lead to an increase in larger scale cross-border trade and activities. They will also bring about more economic collaborations between the two countries, as well as foreign interest in these collaborations. Ultimately, there will be countless more opportunities for the tens of thousands of migrants and displaced people to finally use the education, training, and skills provided by the IRC and other like-minded organizations to gain formal employment – a possibility that was once unattainable. This not only benefits them, but also contributes to the progress of Thailand and Myanmar. Possibility, however, does not guarantee reality. Hard work lies ahead for migrants and displaced people, as well as for local communities and organizations like the IRC. Those who have been trained by the IRC and partner organizations are highly skilled in languages (English and Thai), computing, accounting and finance, business management, teaching, healthcare, hospitality management, architecture and construction, advanced agricultural practices, and much more. They’re eager, determined, and ready to work, but need to be given tangible opportunities so that they can create real, sustainable impact on society. Through the IRC’s “Invest to Excel” project, the organization is looking to partner with private sector companies in Thailand and Myanmar to offer a chance for further professionalized training, employment, and security to the IRC’s beneficiaries. You can help by donating to the IRC, which helps the group reach and train even more migrants and displaced people. So far, only a fraction of the very large population has received training. To realize the potential of the Myanmar in Thailand, the IRC urges us all to unite across sectors, borders, and cultural divides.
The IRC will host an event on July 24 to discuss its work and “Invest to Excel.” For more information about this event and questions concerning partnership or donations to the IRC, please contact Oranutt Narapruet at Oranutt.Narapruet@rescue.org or visit rescue.org.
JUNE 2015 | 15
WATER LEAVES MORE THAN A RIPPLE ON THE SURFACE OF THAI SOCIETY
16 | JUNE 2015
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insight
S N A P S H OT S
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON WATER
S
hapeless itself, water has nevertheless shaped life in Thailand for centuries. Like all civilizations that depend on rivers and seas for strength and survival, Thai culture has prospered throughout the course of its history thanks to water. We have built our homes, villages, towns, cities, and capitals around bodies of water. The clichéd nickname of Bangkok’s past, “Venice of the East,” was originally coined for the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. Water is our talisman, the life force of our society. Through time and tide, water has supported the Thai economy, from agriculture to fishing, industry, and transportation. We have survived on and made a living from food and resources plentiful in the water. Our lives have depended on it, day in, day out. We suffer when there’s too much of it, and we dread there isn’t enough. While we construct dams and dikes to protect from floods, we initiate irrigation and artificial rainfall projects to combat droughts. Water is integrated into our lifestyles. It gives us leisure and sports. We incorporate ponds and fountains into the landscape. We marvel at waterfalls, bathe in the stream, and swim in the sea. Free-flow trade flourishes at floating markets. Activities like boat songs and races have grown into festivals in provinces with main waterways. Nowadays, tourists canoe or go white-water rafting in many parts of the country. Some people even stay in houseboats, or houses on rafts, their lives fastened to the floating world. In front of households in northern Thailand, families leave water in jars that thirsty visitors and travellers can draw from to quench parched throats. From birth to death, water remains the centrepiece of life in Thailand. At formative stages, we are sanctified by water in a rite similar to baptism. In the past, a child’s hair would be washed before the top knot was cut off at a tonsure ceremony. Likewise, when boys become novices and men ordain as monks, they first cleanse their hair before shaving it. At a traditional wedding, guests bless the bride and groom, pouring water from a conch shell on the hands of the newlyweds. When we move into a new house or office, a monk blesses our heads and habitats with holy bangkok101.com
water sprinkled from sacred branches. When a life expires, guests gently pour water on the hands of the deceased in an age-old funerary rite. The two most popular festivals in Thailand, Songkran and Loy Krathong, revolve around water. During Songkran, the Thai New Year celebrated at the height of summer, we use scented water to cleanse images of the Buddha and to pour on the hands of the elderly as a show of respect. The wild side of the holiday sees crowds of partygoers splashing each other with the cold stuff — a tradition not borne out of religion, but rather good, old-fashioned fun. Loy Krathong is about paying homage to Mae Khongkha (Ganges), the Goddess of Water. Knowing that we use and abuse water daily, we ask for forgiveness from the goddess at the end of the year by floating the krathong (vessels) on a body of water, such as a river, a lake, or the soft, rolling sea. This, of course, pollutes the water even further, thus continuing the time-honoured cycle of abuse and forgiveness. When rain is scarce or fails to fall in the monsoon season, farmers hold the Hae Nang Maew ritual — or Boon Bung Fai, if they are in the Northeast. During Hae Nang Maew, a female Siamese cat is carried around in a bamboo basket, paraded through the streets by brightlydressed folks who sing, dance, and plead for the clouds to break. Boon Bung Fai is an entirely different affair. Locals assemble gunpowder-filled bamboo rockets in the shape of Naga, since the Naga epitomizes water, power, and prosperity. The rockets are carted on elaborately decorated vehicles and then lit and launched into the sky, where, according to fable, they activate some kind of chemical reaction in the clouds that produces precipitation. Among the myriad rich expressions Thai people use when talking about water, my favourite is, “Dtuk nahm sai ghaloke cha-ngoke duu ngaow.” Translated, it means, “Pour some water in a shell so that you can examine yourself in the reflection.” In other words, take a long, hard look at yourself and remember to be humble. Water is always a good mirror. J U N E 2015 | 17
S N A P S H OT S
highlight
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
CHINATOWN’S GUITARMAKING WIZARD
IN A HIDDEN WORKSHOP, LUTHIER NARONG VISESNUT CRAFTS WORLD-CLASS GUITARS AND CASES.
U
p a flight of stairs toward the very back of a cavernous auto parts showroom and warehouse, a small dusty room is stacked with fragrant slabs of spruce, cedar, and rosewood. Medieval-looking handtools dangle from walls. Power saws and wood forms are mounted on heavy work tables. Half-carved guitar necks and un-lacquered guitar tops await assembly and finishing. Bangkok’s Chinatown is the last place you’d expect to find a luthiery specializing in classical guitars, but for Narong Visesnut, owner of Visesnut Guitars, situating his workshop in the family’s home warehouse and offices makes it easy
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for him to commute between business and passion. Narong started playing classical guitar as a child and never stopped playing, even when he later developed a successful business supplying injection-moulded plastic components to the automotive and electronics industries. While the business provided a comfortable living for his family, Narong’s passion for guitar still gathered steam under the surface. It developed a fresh angle when he became interested in guitar-building nine years ago. “I spent a year reading every book on luthiery I could find and searching the Internet for places where I could bangkok101.com
highlight order tools and materials,” says Narong. “I wasn’t such a great musician, but I thought I might be able to make nice instruments for other guitarists.” He built his first classical guitar from a kit in 2007. He still keeps it close at hand as a reminder of how far he has come in the world of crafting guitars. “Every year since then I’ve gone abroad to learn more about the art of building guitars from master luthiers in the USA, Spain, Germany, and Japan,” he says. “I’ve learned along the way that you need a certain boldness to undertake the craft. It’s not for the fainthearted, as sometimes woods will crack while being cured or shaped, and you have to start over from scratch.” Narong typically uses imported spruce or cedar for the soundboards of his guitars and Indian rosewood for the back and sides. “These are the tried and true woods favoured by the masters, so I tend to stick with them,” he notes while showing off chalk-marked samples in his workshop. “You can get away with using a few Thai woods for interior bracing, even sometimes for the neck. But, in general, tropical woods are too hard and dense. They tend to block sound vibrations.” For the bridge, Narong chooses Brazilian rosewood. For the fingerboard and headstock faceplate, he uses ultrafine-grained ebony. He encircles the sound hole of each guitar with an intricate mosaic of tiny, multi-hued pieces of wood. With such attention to detail, Narong is only able to build about five classical guitars each year, which mostly go to customers in Southeast Asia. He claims a three-year waiting list at the moment, with prices starting at 100,000 baht. Though a master at crafting the instrument, Narong may have found his true calling in a line of premium ultra-light guitar cases he recently started building. His
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revolutionary design, which he builds entirely by himself, weighs a mere three kilos empty, far less than most other cases, and is exceptionally strong, easily supporting the weight of a 90-kilo person standing flat on the lid. As a classical guitarist himself, the 55-year-old is sensitive to the particular needs of his fellow musicians. “I started designing prototypes a year and a half ago because I wasn’t happy with classical guitar cases available elsewhere,” says Narong. “I have scratched guitars on the metal latches when removing them from their cases. The Hokkaido spruce top of my prize Kohno guitar cracked once when the guitar fell from the case because I couldn’t tell whether it was latched or not.” Narong says his target market is performing artists who travel frequently, whether to and from concerts or between home and conservatory. “They typically own very expensive, hand-crafted instruments, so they need a case that is extremely protective but also very light. Carrying heavy cases can cramp the hands and fingers and affect performance.” The light, double-walled urethane body of the case is designed to absorb impact and insulate the contents from extreme temperature changes. With his company’s background in the custom design and manufacturing of high-quality plastic components, Narong was uniquely qualified to experiment with the material in a way that most instrument case manufacturers are not. The velvet interior of the Visesnut case features a thickly cushioned suspension system that fits around the perimeter of the guitar body and, by means of pull-straps and Velcro, can be adjusted for a snug fit. Once the form is adjusted, the guitar doesn’t shift inside the case. It also means the case will fit guitars of varying size. Visesnut guitar cases are the only cases in the world with this unique design feature. Stainless steel locking latches were custom-made for Visesnut to eliminate protruding parts which might impale or scratch the guitar if the lid were to accidentally close while removing or inserting the instrument. The exterior of the case includes backpack straps, another feature rarely seen in a hard shell guitar case. Plastic bumpers ensure stability when the case is standing in either a vertical or horizontal position. Meanwhile, the lid and body meet with a special cushioned gasket seal to ensure humidity control and tighten contact between lid and body for superior case integrity in the event of severe blows to the exterior. A thick, comfortable leather handle is conveniently placed in the curve between neck and body to achieve a sleek profile. For solid exterior colours (black, white, blue, yellow), the cases cost 20,000 baht. Premium colours (copper bronze, black pearl) cost a bit more. Narong also offers an optional soft case cover for additional thermal insulation and shock resistance. The heavy-duty, rip-stop nylon bag features YKK zippers with leather pulls and enclosed rain flaps to repel water away from the case.
VISESNUT GUITARS WORKSHOP 92 Santiphap Rd | 08 1668 5340
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
IN THE GLASS RING
As the rainy season begins, the blood sport of gambling on Siamese fighting fish also commences. Photographs from the recent Thai Art Exhibition by Visarute Angkatavanich at Central Embassy.
It was 10am on a Wednesday morning in the 21st century, but it may as well have been a thousand years ago. In the hinterland, under the shade cast by a jackfruit tree beside a grove of bamboo, a millennia-old contest and gambling game was about to begin. From their bags, men pulled out small whiskey bottles half-filled with water. Inside the bottles were male Siamese fighting fish, creatures so viciously territorial they will even attack their own reflections in a glass surface. One of the “referees” held up two bottles to properly match the opponents by size. When the owners agreed it was a fair fight and made a wager, the fish were put into a square glass tank that stood a half-metre high. Immediately, the gill covers on each fish shot out like 20 | JUNE 2015
protective armour and they charged at each other. Their iridescent scales shimmered as the blue-and-green fish nipped at the fins of its red-and-purple rival. Like boxers, they circled each other, making quick strikes and then retreating. But unlike human combatants, these fish can fight like this for three hours or more. They can fight like this to the death. This morning’s session out in Nakhon Pathom province, an hour northwest of Bangkok, had pulled in a crowd of about 30 men, watching a number of matches going on at once. Some of the men bred fighting fish (better known as betta splendens or bettas). Some were wholesalers. And bangkok101.com
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a few were professional gamblers. One of them said that the matches also attract gangsters, drug dealers and other criminal elements who gamble on fighting cocks during the dry season and pla gat (“biting fish”) during the months of the monsoon. Sensing our nervousness, he reassured us that these rough-and-tumble characters holster their firepower and rein in their homicidal tendencies when gambling. “Well, most of the time anyway,” he said, laughing in that gleeful Thai way which strikes a discordant note with the seriousness of what they’ve just said. In the middle and upper echelons of Thai society, the “sport” is looked down upon as a no-class pastime for “pricks from the sticks.” Most of the spectators and fish owners, even in Bangkok, which has around 20 fighting rings, are migrants from rural areas, and have never attended high school. At Bangkok’s weekend Chatuchak market, where they sell Siamese fighting fish, visitors can sometimes also see gambling matches. But one man in attendance shattered all these stereotypes: Precha Jintasaerwong holds master’s degrees in both philosophy and computer science. Through his website (plakatthai.com), he exports the fish around the world. Precha said that gambling on fighting fish is also popular in Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia, with smaller followings in Singapore and Hong Kong. Like many Thai boys, Precha remembers playing with the creatures when he was a kid. In those days, the freshwater fish were a common sight in the canals of Bangkok. Nowadays, they thrive in ponds, rice paddies and irrigation ditches in the pastoral parts of the country. Because the fish has both gills and a “labyrinth organ” in its head, it comes to the surface now and again to breathe oxygen, and can live in small jars with no filtration system or even mud puddles. The short-finned species has been bred to fight for centuries now, said Precha, who served as the scientific advisor for a Discovery Channel programme on them in bangkok101.com
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2002. However, the fancier kind, such as plaa kat jeen (“Chinese fighting fish,” because their long fins resemble the ancient robes of China’s nobility), while still aggressive, are strictly bred for aquariums. And they’re a large part of the reason why Thailand has become the world’s second largest exporter of tropical fish. What attracts fish fanatics to the betta, however, is the incredible variety of hues, patterns and at least 12 different kinds of tail. The International Betta Congress estimates that there are more than 26,000 different varieties of the fish. Breeders are coming up with new hybrids all the time and new colour combinations like gold and copper. Certain species sell for up to USD150 each. Some of the matches we saw went on for three hours until the fighters’ fins and tails were in tatters. Even so, the two combatants could still lock jaws for minutes at a time, barely moving, while trying to tear the lips off the other fish. Transfixed by this “death kiss,” the gamblers stared at the glass jars. Minutes passed. Lit cigarettes smouldered. Energy drinks went untouched. And still we stared. There was something very primeval going on here that reminded me of Chuck Palahniuk’s novel Fight Club, which provided the framework for the film starring Brad Pitt and Edward Norton. The satirical depiction of a man so bored of being an office lackey—and stressing out over the purchase of a new living room set—that his only safety valve and sense of satisfaction comes through physical violence, may put a more human face on the perennial appeal of blood sports and martial arts. A longer version of this story appears in Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
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very thai
female grooming THE IMPORTANCE OF WOMEN’S HAIR AND DRESS PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH
LEE PUENGBOONPRA, GROOMED TO PERFECTION
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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Photo: HiSoParty.com
W
hether in formal fabric or spaghetti straps, Thai women remain among the best-groomed people on earth. Visitors marvel at how prettily they frame their typical blessings of smooth skin, fine features, petite figure and lustrous hair. On special occasions, the use of gold, silk and flowers lends traditional costuming a divine mystique. Designers today find fresh uses for local textiles like tie-dyed mudmee silk, especially in skirt-suits worn by grand khunying (dames). In every-day wear, too, female Thais display awesome pride in appearance. Uniforms abound, waitresses glide with prim politeness, office ladies totter off to lunch in elegant outfits. Even the poorest look spotless. As important as hairspray is white make-up. Paleness raises status. Keeping out of the sun is vital, and Thais spend 1 billion baht annually on skin whitening products, even for armpit and genital bleaching. Typically advertised by halfWestern or Chinese models, these can at best only restore the skin’s natural shade, and some can be poisonous. To look truly pale requires powder. Thus women of all ranks may smear their faces with talc or with nam ob, perfumed lotions containing dinsor phong, a white clay from Lopburi now used in Thai spa therapies. It both heals and cools.
scalini created presents new a la carte menu by egidio latorraca in 1920’s italian-american style information reservation
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hilton sukhumvit bangkok, 11 sukhumvit soi 24, khlong ton, khlong toei, bangkok 10110 thailand facebook.com/scalinibangkok @hiltonbkk#scalinibkk bts skytrain: phrom phong
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 | jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | Tue-Sun 9.30am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five 24 | JUNE 2015
reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES
Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN ERAWAN SHRINE Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | BTS Chit Lom | free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
TEMPLES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | Tha Chang Pier | 0 2222 0094, 0 2623 5500 | 8.30am-3.30 pm | B500
Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd | 0 2465 5640 | watarun.com | 8am-5pm | B100 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 0 2226 0369 | watpho.com | 8am-5pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd | 0 2221 5999 | 9am-5pm | free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA Mahachai Rd | 0 2224 8807 | 8.30am-6pm This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET Chakkraphatdiphong Rd | 0 2233 4561 7.30am-5.30pm | B10 bangkok101.com
listings Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING Bamrung Muang Rd | 0 2222 9632 | 9am9pm | free Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT 661 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2623 1226 | MRT HuaLampong | 8am-5pm | B50/B100 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) | Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 | bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books. bangkok101.com
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd | 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com | Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 | ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephantback with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 | thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and
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Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 | nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri | 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier | 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN THAI FILM MUSEUM 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom | nfat.org | 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; Mon-Fri: by appointment | free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. JUNE 2015 | 25
PHI TA KHON UNMASKS THAILAND’S WEIRD AND WILD SIDE 26 | JUNE 2015
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PHI TA KHON
LOEI
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or three days each year, the village of Dan Sai in idyllic Loei province fluffs its feathers with the Phi Ta Khon festival. Celebrations start with a cavalcade of local men strutting around town in outrageous costumes of every vibrant hue, their faces shrouded with ghost masks so fearsome they might haunt your dreams. These “spirits” are just a primer. The men also elicit — ahem — more prurient emotions with massive wooden phalluses, which they wave like unsheathed swords at passersby. The festival isn’t just some deviant party, though. It recognizes the return of Prince Vessantara —Lord Buddha in a past life — from a long journey. A journey so long, in fact, that his devotees presumed he had died along the way. The celebrations following his return were so rowdy they woke the dead. The first day sees the vigorous “spirits” gathering at the Mun River, and then come the parades, games, and Isaan rock concerts. On the second day, the villagers head to Wat Ponchai to listen to sermons, after which they do more of the same from the first day. The third day involves Buddhist rituals, above all else, but the music and dancing continue too. Alcohol is consumed in great quantities throughout the weekend. As you might imagine, the party can go off the rails rather quickly. Phi Ta Khon will be celebrated from June 27-29 this year, and, as always, in Dan Sai. The masks, woven from coconut leaves and rice husks, are world-famous. It’s worth a trip to check them out alone; however, considering the size and scale of the festivities, and not to mention the chance to soak up some Isaan flavour, if there’s any festival worth travelling for, it’s Phi Ta Khon.
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T R AV E L
upcountry now
Until June 9 Attame Bucha Attane Bucha or The Replication of Lord Buddha Funeral Tradition is the festival annually held in Uttaradit for more than 50 years. The funeral ceremony of Lord Buddha will be re-enacted during the festival at Wat Boromathat Tung Yang. You will also be entertained by the light and sound show, performances on the stage and shop the local food and products.
June 7 10th Laguna Phuket International Marathon Slip on your running shoes and short-shorts: there’s a marathon to run, this one down in Phuket. Setting off from the plush Laguna Beach Resort, the 10th Laguna Phuket International Marathon does a loop along the island’s backroads past temples, local villages, and pineapple and rubber plantations. You don’t need to be a long-distance champ to take part: aside from the full marathon, there is also a half marathon, a 10.5k run, a 5k community walk, and a 2k kids run. See phuketmarathon.com for more information, including entry fees.
June 12 Sukhothai Mini Light and Sound Shows Celebrating the ancient capital as a source of national heritage, the mini-light and sound show will be held at Wat Sasri inside Sukhothai Historical Park, a collection of cultural ruins and historical destinations. Visitors can listen to narration in several languages, including English, Japanese, French, and German. Admission to the show is free.
June 26 Sunthorn Phu Memorial Day If this name sounds unfamiliar to you and you have no idea who he is, the “Shakespear of Thailand” might give some clues. First established by UNESCO, the annual event is held in Rayong where the greatest Thai poet was born. Sunthon Phu’s classical literary works are praised by all Thai people for a very long era. Tourists can enjoy cultural performances and puppet shows depicting his works. The major highlights are poetry recitals, folk entertainment and dramas. There is also an exhibition on his poetry and stories.
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upcountry xxx escape now
T R AV E L
Until June 30 Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2015 Lovers of this wildly maddening, yet unfortunately addictive, game should swing up to northern Thailand between now and the end of June. During the Chiang Mai Golf Festival, visitors can play nine of the major courses in the region, including some in Chiang Mai, for only B1500 per round. The price includes green fees, caddie, and a special souvenir from the festival.
Until June 30 Rayong Fruit Festival Those in-the-know will tell you that Rayong is where all the best fruit is grown. To celebrate its sweet and juicy bounty, the province has put together an annual festival featuring fruit eating competitions, a “Miss Fruit Gardener” beauty contest, musical performances, and so much more. OTOP products from Rayong and various kinds of fruits are on sale at low prices throughout the festival. Dig in!
Until August The Dok Krachiao Blossom Festival The seasons may be less obviously pronounced in this part of the world, but that only makes the changes that do take place all the more special. One of the most admired gifts of the seasons, a pinkish-purple flower known as the Siam Tulip, or Dok Krachiao, will brighten up Chaiyaphum province until the end of August. These wild blooms, with their lotus-like petals, are most easily spotted in the grassy meadows of Pa Hin Ngam National Park (0 4489 0105, entry fee for foreigners B200).
Until October Kaeng Hin Phoeng Whitewater Rafting Festival Love extreme sports? Then head out of town to Khao Yai for the Whitewater Rafting Festival at Keang Hin Phoeng. This annual splash-fest is held during the rainy season (around June – October), when rapids and water levels are optimal for thrill-seekers. In order to take part, you must have at least rudimentary river navigational skills as well as the ability to cling on to the boat and swim.
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ISLANDS 101 B
usy, bright, big, and bantam; raw, refined, relaxed, and roaring; minor and major, near and far, vigorous and vibrant — the islands in the Gulf of Thailand are a poet’s dream. From the Koh Chang Marine Park in the waters off Cambodia to the Chumphon Archipelago, cradled by the curve of the Malay Peninsula, the diversity of these green and gold jewels has inspired entire chapters of verse. In the following pages, discover a side of Koh Chang, Phangan, Samet, Samui, and Tao you may have never known. Sunthorn Phu, one of the country’s most recognizable literary heroes, pined for the sandy shores of Koh Samet when away from home. He loved it so much he set an epic poem there. Today, his escape has transformed into the preferred getaway of Bangkok’s working class. Rama V, better known as King Chulalongkorn, visited the verdant Koh Phangan 14 times during his reign, leaving marks etched into stones as reminders of his presence; however, the island’s wild nature — immortalized in Alex Garland’s The Beach — is the source of our interest, as we round up the finest wellness retreats in the area, offering packages to help you recover from wretched excess. Thailand’s islands are a dynamic group. A former penal colony turned into a diving mecca. A sun-dappled paradise, whose development from a fisherman’s stopover to a traveller’s dream has spawned not only swank resorts and beach clubs, but also first-rate craft beer and artisanal spirits. An elephant-shaped island, urbane on one coast, untouched on the other.
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As the sun rises over Ao Salak Petch, runners trace the shore
xxx feature escape
I STLRAAV N DE LS
Running Wild Start to Finish: Unseen Koh Chang’s Ultra-Marathon BY CRAIG SAUERS
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ike a fox peeking out of its burrow, the sun’s crown penetrates the horizon, bathing coconut palms in flaxen half-light. The occasional sound of chatter breaks the cadence of cicadas. A chorus of chirps, a rush of soft whispers, and back to tinny droning. Two hundred runners have gathered in a clearing by Wat Salak Petch. The air is thick and stifling, a veritable silicone suit of humidity. Sweat lubricates skin. Body heat builds. The clock is set to zero, the challenges laid bare. The end seems so far, the beginning not far enough. Athletes steel themselves as nature slowly runs its course. Against the western sky, the brick red temple roof burns, the palm fronds cast stark silhouettes. The runners move closer together, pressing flesh against flesh. Ultra & Trail Unseen Koh Chang, in its inaugural year, has attracted a sizable crowd to the most inaccessible point of the island, and for the ostensible reason of running an ultra-marathon through impossible conditions. The anticipation is palpable. For some people, it shows in the form of nerves, and, for others, peculiar giddiness. What drives the anxious and the eager to slog seven, ten, thirteen hours in the heat of the day? What stokes the need to inflict pain upon the body? To whom must they prove their mettle?
A long road ahead lurks bangkok101.com
The consciousness of a long-distance runner is hard to identify, precisely because it defies universal logic. It takes a certain brand of lunacy to confront suffering — suffering of the mind as well as the body — head-on. Pain is pain, after all. And yet, the number of people joining extreme races in Thailand is growing at exponential rates. The North Face 100, split into 25, 50, and 100 kilometre races, has multiplied in attendance each year. Most recently, the total participants jumped from 2,000 in 2014 to 2,400 in 2015, although neither figure shows the hundreds of others who wished to take part, but could not — registration reaches capacity in only a couple of weeks. In the warm, silver morning, nerves ebb and flow. When the hour strikes six, a horn screams. A dozen keyed up athletes sprint out to lead the pack. Most, however, tread slowly, letting their feet fall into an easy measured rhythm. They’re in no rush; there’s a lot of ground to cover. Sixty-six kilometres, one half of which cuts through Koh Chang’s south-eastern jungles, the other leading down a long and brutal paved road that, in a few hours, will resemble the lava fields of Kona, Hawaii. Only a few hundred metres into the race, Koh Chang’s physical appeal stages a first hurdle to clear. The athletes shuffle onto the beach of Ao Salak Petch, pale sloping
Pauses in the action lead to photo ops JUNE 2015 | 33
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Quiet confidence and composure: two traits that all ultra-marathon runners must possess sands bordered by palm and sea almond trees. The high tide has left a line the colour of clay in the sand. Within its margins, the surface is soft and malleable. Shoes leave divots, which the sea will wash away when night falls. At first, the colours of the day appear gradually. Black fades in to a palette of blues, which releases red, orange, yellow, and violet from its grasp, little by little. As the course enters the jungle, the scenery becomes awash in a medley of green. The trails are narrow, uneven, and choked with overgrown vegetation. Within this corridor of bushes and vines, fresh air quickly evaporates. Drawing breath becomes difficult. Under normal circumstances, few venture to this part of the island. Far from the pier, even farther from the vanilla beaches and their creature comforts, it is, as the race description proclaims, the unseen Koh Chang — raw, real, and unadulterated. Starting within earshot of a blue southern bay protected by a small bump of an island called Koh Phrao Nai, the course heads into the national park, the home of snakes, birds, monkeys, and flora. Thirty kilometres of jungle running, the shade of the canopy offering respite from the sun, transporting athletes to a world removed from highways, high rises, and slate-gray asphalt. The course passes a waterfall, whose gentle rush harmonizes with cooing, carolling animals. Natural beauty betrays the race’s beckoning call: adventure, escape, a reversal from the norm. Sometimes, the trodden path vanishes. In its stead appear streams, rocks, or steep ledges that might as well be walls. One by one, runners crest seventy-degree slopes by grabbing hold of vines, tree trunks, and large, semi34 | JUNE 2015
sturdy rocks, which they use to propel their bodies onto the path again. When it seems the jungle will never end, the course opens up to rolling hills and hard, paved road. Like a stovetop, the tarmac is blistering to touch. The late-morning sun spits heat, warping vision, ratcheting the deceleration of muscular strength and mental capacity. The terrain is practically mountainous, hump after hump, a vista of peaks and valleys. At this point, however, locals have spread themselves out on the road. They offer fresh coconuts, bottles of water, claps, and cheers. Runners doing the 66 kilometre race head out and back. As they return in the direction from which they came, they face those taking part in the 33 kilometre loop. The human contact is gratifying. In fact, the compassion is downright necessary. As the kilometres are whittled down to 20, 15, 10, the course circles around the southernmost point of the island. Here stands a naval battle memorial, marking an often forgotten chapter in the history of Thailand, when a flotilla of French ships out-maneuvered and sunk a couple of Thai vessels. This key moment in the Franco-Thai War lives on in a far-off corner of the country like a dusty book buried under knick-knacks on the back of a shelf. The end approaches. Hours of struggle culminate in an eruption of euphoria when the finish line is crossed and runners nurse the pieces of themselves that remain intact. When all is said and done, and the lithe legs that so vigorously traced the hidden trails of Koh Chang lift up and leave, no mark will remain on the earth, only memories locked tight in the mind. Nature will have run its course. bangkok101.com
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Water World: Diving at the Sattawuk Wreck in the Chumphon Archipelago
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Going Deep Diving with a Touch of Debauchery in the Gulf of Thailand BY JARED BATZEL
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s I slid my aluminium cylinder into the tank rack, I caught a fleeting glimpse of white sand beaches and palm trees dusting the distant horizon. The smell of massaman fish curry bubbling on the deck above overpowered the lingering scent of neoprene and salt water trapped in my nose. Traditionally boisterous postdive stories in various corners of the deck turned to the impending night’s pub crawl. I thought to myself, “This place just might be paradise.” A map, however, had a different name for it: the Chumphon Archipelago. Anywhere in the world, island life tends to be a bit cliché. All right — a lot cliché. That being said, beyond the oversized vessels of booze and omnipresent Bob
A view from the divemasters’ quarters bangkok101.com
Marley jams that most people associate with the islands of Thailand’s eponymous gulf, there’s more to each of these specks of green than initially meets the eye. Nestled in the Ang Thong National Marine Park, each of the islands has its own perceived specialty. Koh Phangan: wild, moon-related parties. Koh Samui: parties of a slightly higher class, yet also respite from the chaos inherent to Thailand. Koh Tao: diving. The smallest island in the food chain is a veritable Mecca for the sport. I was fortunate enough to explore it to the fullest. In between spurts of regional travel, I spent a large chunk of time in the Gulf, living, training, and working as a “self-contained underwater breathing apparatus”
A stowaway climbs aboard the boat JUNE 2015 | 37
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A View from on High: Boats trawl the shore off Haad Sairee on Koh Tao (or “SCUBA”) professional. As such, it was appropriate that my initiation to the island cult came not with a trial by fire, but water. Songkran, the Thai New Year celebration hallmarked by throwing buckets of water in amounts nearly equalled by the volume of alcohol consumed, occurred within twenty-four hours of my arrival in the Kingdom. A friend of mine from Bangkok insisted that we meet up on Koh Phangan for the festivities. There, we waded through muddy 7-Elevens to purchase cheap beer, discharged squirt guns into the air and at each other, and toured the island on the back of a local’s pickup truck with a soberish driver. The next night, we dove deeper down the rabbit hole, joining a tidal wave of backpackers at the Full Moon Party.
LEARNING TO DIVE CAN BE STRESSFUL AND MENTALLY TAXING, SO I CAN ONLY IMAGINE BEING IN THE MIDDLE OF A LESSON AND LOOKING UP TO SEE A NAKED MAN FLOAT BY. Though tempted by Thailand’s abundance of, shall we say, “leisure” activities, I’d come here to dive. While my much-abused liver was still processing alcohol, I swallowed some Dramamine to fend off seasickness and 38 | JUNE 2015
hopped on a ferry, heading to my new twenty-one-squarekilometre Koh Tao home. Digs there consisted of the requisite small, stale room with barely-working A/C, spotty power, a trickle that barely passed for a shower, and an angry landlady. In other words, it was perfect for my needs. Days were passed diving in the warm, clear waters, and the nights drinking along the bar-riddled beachfront spine known as the “yellow brick road.” I am a certified divemaster, which puts me one notch below an instructor. I am also certified in specialties, like diving with different mixtures/compressions of air, swimming around inside shipwrecks, and diving very, very deep. As a general rule, divemasters plan and lead dives, assist new divers, and double as a safety expert for the boat. As such, we spend a lot of our time under the water – where things can get a little weird. Koh Tao’s dive sites are infamous for “trigger fish” — a somewhat large, bony fish, approximately a half metre in length and five kilos in weight, so named for the articulating dorsal fin that springs upward when they aren’t happy. A very territorial (particularly during the spring mating season), trigger fish frequently “attack” divers by using their coral-chomping teeth to nibble at fluttering swim fins and occasionally the fleshy parts left unguarded. Your first encounter with trigger fish is quite memorable, but when you realize they’re not much more than “terriers of the sea,” battling these little buggers can be a blast. One day, during a dive at the Green Rock site, we were a bit overstaffed, so a friend and I decided to do our own thing. Green Rock has a “pit” of trigger fish bangkok101.com
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A stunning sunset in the Gulf of Thailand
Divemasters lead beginners through the wreckage that we happened to moor over the top of that day, so he and I decided to check it out. After doing a brief circumnavigation of the dive site to kill time, we assumed everyone else was aboard the boat and decided to rile the triggers up. Swimming directly over the pit, we watched the fins spring up, pushing a few away with our flippers and getting the whole community up in arms. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw the beginner divers from our boat floating like sea lions into this swarm of very pissed off fish. We immediately turned from instigators to bodyguards, fending off the onslaught while mildly panicked students and staff went through their decompression protocols. After getting everyone safely aboard the boat, we feigned surprise at the erratic fish behaviour, but our story of being innocent victims did not hold up. In the spirit of dive-course camaraderie, we made it right by buying copious beers that night for the survivors. Diving, you see, is a sport governed by tradition. One such tradition dictates that, on your hundredth dive, you go as the Good Lord made you: in the buff. Wise divers coordinate their century dives to ensure they happen at sparsely populated sites at odd times. Not so for one divemaster in training on our boat. He went for it at a sandy bottom training dive site, crawling with newbie divers, in the early afternoon. Reluctantly, I agreed to be his buddy, but only because I wanted to observe the chaos. Learning to dive can be stressful and mentally taxing, so I can only imagine being in the middle of a lesson and looking up to see a naked man float by. 40 | JUNE 2015
Even rain can’t stop divers Working on Koh Tao for only a few months, I could easily fill volumes with stories like this. Each day was another experience I never thought I’d have. Randomly finding a stuffed Winnie the Pooh bear floating on top of the waves. Trying to have a 50 metre “dash” race on the bottom of the ocean (much harder than you think). Coming out of a darkened shipwreck only to be face-to-face with a 100 kilo sea turtle. Going on dives specifically to look for lost snorkelling equipment so we could sell it for booze money. Every trip into the deep blue seemed better than the last.
Before You Go I recommend the medium-size dive shops. The larger ones may be slightly cheaper and appear to have more options, but they’ll be less individual-oriented and a lot less fun. Koh Tao is a particularly good spot to learn, with some of the most inexpensive tuition fees anywhere in the SCUBA universe and plenty of excitement under the waves. Find a shop that can take you through the advanced certifications with the same instructor and the wonders of the deep will open up to you, dive after dive. Regardless of what dive shop you go with or which sites you visit — or how many shenanigans you get into — diving on Koh Tao is a tremendous experience. I never did find a whale shark, the holy grail of diving in Southeast Asia, but I did find a lot of fun in the Gulf of Thailand.
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Chidlom
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Sukhumvit Soi 11
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Bawarchi Chidlom Bawarchi Sathorn President Tower Arcade ( Intercontinental Bangkok B - Level, 973, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2656 0102 - 3
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Brewmaster Jim Smith (left) chats with a visitor over a half pint of porter
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THE SPIRIT OF SAMUI Artisanal Quaffs on the Coconut Island WORDS BY CRAIG SAUERS; BEE’S KNEES PHOTOS BY MADLEN SASSE
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raft beer and rum seem right at home on a tropical island. Holidays, after all, invoke images of sundowners on glittering gold beaches. Cocktails with umbrella straws, sweating pint glasses filled with icy lager, the sour-sweet kick of a mojito — away from routine, life’s simple pleasures take the form of shoulder angels saying, “If you would just move to Koh Samui, this could be your every day.” About ten years ago, a couple of French fruit growers heeded that call. Elisa and Michel Gabrel moved to Samui from Gers. After clearing legal hurdles, they set up a small-scale distillery with the goal of creating fruit alcohol. Before long, they started making rum with sugarcane sourced from the southern mainland of Thailand. In a nod to the classic French alembic in which their spirits were distilled, they named their brand Magic Alambic. In 2014, after a decade in operation, a former owner of a French printing company named Ludovic Trantoul took the reins, renovating the facilities, improving production, and giving the brand a new, straightforward name: Koh Samui Rum.
A classic alembic, reminiscent of the old days bangkok101.com
“The product was already good [before I took over],” says Trantoul, “but I want to make it even better. I’ve changed the fermenting and distilling processes, and I’ve picked up tricks from specialists and visitors who run their own distilleries back home.” The spirited newcomer even spends his free time researching ways to extract more pronounced flavour from the sugarcane, to get smoother tastes after distillation, and to produce greater depth from the aging process. It’s a labour of love. He had never worked in the industry before he moved to Samui to try his hand at it when Magic Alambic went up for sale (“I’m a romantic,” he says). Koh Samui Rum still produces white rum as Magic Alambic did. First, the distillery receives and crushes its all-natural ingredients, including sugarcane from Nakhon Sri Thammarat and the distillery’s own 20-acre farm near Surat Thani. Then, yeast is added to the mash – natural fruit juices, too, if the rum is to be flavoured – and left to ferment for two or three days. After that, the brew is boiled in a large pot still for about five hours. The finished
Sugarcane from Koh Samui Rum’s plantation JUNE 2015 | 43
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The tasting room at Bee’s Knees gives a glimpse of the beer-making process product ages for a minimum of eight months, developing in intensity over time. Koh Samui Rum comes in five flavours — lime, orange, pineapple, coconut, and natural. In the last year, distillation and distribution have been streamlined. The spirit is currently available in bars, hotels, and restaurants on the island. Visitors are welcome to drop by the facilities, as well. Now, expansion is in the works with Trantoul eyeing nationwide distribution within a year. Just a few beaches north of Koh Samui Rum’s Na Mueang operation, another brewery is carving out a niche, but with a different kind of alcohol. In 2010, noting the lack of craft beer on Samui compared to other holiday islands, Englishman Jim Smith settled on Chaweng as home base for his Bee’s Knees Brewpub. He imported a special vat from China, one that could keep the beer cool in the humid climate as it passed through the conditioning process. Then, he got to work. “We’re currently making four beers,” says Smith, who has over 35 years of brewing experience. “A wheat beer with light, fruity flavours that we brew with Australian Galaxy hops, rather than the traditional orange and coriander; a porter with East Kent Golding hops that has a lingering taste of coffee and chocolate; a “pilsner” (it’s really a lager, but ‘lager’ often reminds people of flavourless products) brewed with German Hallertau hops; and an English bitter also made with East Kent Golding hops.” Bee’s Knees does beer the right way. Smith and his team mash malted barley and wheat by infusion to create a wort, which is then strained and boiled with fresh hops. Once it has cooled, yeast is added and the mixture is left to ferment at a lower temperature over 21 days, a length of time that results in a more complete conditioning. No additional ingredients or chemicals ever enter the mix. 44 | JUNE 2015
The beer, left unpasteurised and unfiltered, is only served on draft. “We want people to taste the real flavours of the ingredients,” says Smith. Thanks to word-of-mouth efforts, as well as social media, including beer-centric apps such as Untappd and Rate Beer, the brewpub has gained a loyal following. The fresh, cool, low-carbonated beer takes credit as the main reason for this success, but Smith’s passion for his craft certainly plays a part, too. In certain circles, “the bee’s knees” means “the best of the best.” The phrase represents a benchmark for the entrepreneur, a high bar worth aiming for, whatever hurdles may stand in the way. The Bee’s Knees doesn’t yet have a kitchen, but one is in the works. Ask Smith what food he suggests pairing with his beer — “Some combinations just really work, like smoked food with the porter, cheese with the bitter, spicy foods with the pilsner, and maybe salads or desserts with the wheat” — and the first stages of a menu begin to take shape. For now, beer-lovers will have to trek to Chaweng Lake for a taste of Bee’s Knees smooth nectar. It isn’t yet available on tap elsewhere on the island. Thanks to a couple of forward-looking mash masters, holidays on Samui have suddenly been recharged and diversified. Come for the beaches, stay for the artisanal rum and craft beer.
For more information about the spirits, their prices, and where they’re available, go online to: • rum-distillery.com • samuibrew.pub
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What Dreams May Come Riding High at the W Retreat Samui BY KAILA KRAYEWSKI
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uxury rarely feels as ingrained in everyday life as it does at W Retreat Samui. Hand-delivered luxury, of course, is the resort’s calling card, the lever lifting its exalted reputation even higher. Opulent fantasies draw guests — year in, year out — to the quiet northcentral shores of the island, where the pink-and-white seductress beckons, suggesting dreams may become real within its elevated tropical grounds. The most basic spaces are, in fact, villas with 166 square metres in which to roam. Each comes with a private pool. Throughout the day, little gifts are brought
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to you — fragrant and potent Japanese beers served in a bucket of ice, delicately moulded chocolate truffles and so on. The branded Bliss amenities speckle the white-tiled bathroom — a bathroom that leads to the private pool through a sliding glass door. Fridges are scattered across the property. Each brims with Häagen-Dazs and soft drinks. DJs spin tracks behind a hanuman mask-shaped booth. Master mixologists prepare designer drinks. Regular events are held on-site, from small in scale to grand. Mondays end with a movie on the beach while Thursdays bring “Mojito Madness,”
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with its seven different takes on the muddled mint drink. At this sprawling utopia, the beach meets at a tip of the island, a vantage point from which you can catch a firebright sunrise and, later at the same spot, turn your chair around to watch the sun sink into the ocean as it casts a peach glow across the sky.
A PERENNIAL FAVOURITE PERK IS THE “WHATEVER, WHENEVER” SERVICE, WHICH, SAYS A CHECK-IN CLERK WITH A WRY SMILE, “COVERS ANYTHING, AS LONG AS IT’S LEGAL.” IT EMBODIES W’S PLAYFUL SIDE, THOUGH DISCREETLY. It’s easy to fall in love with the W brand: funky, chic, and stylish without venturing into pretentiousness, you’re always in for a thrilling experience, whether in Bali, Bangkok, or Barcelona. But this Samui property, representing the brand’s first venture into Asia (it opened in 2010), is truly special. 48 | JUNE 2015
First of all, its location couldn’t be more ideal. Mae Nam is a luxury traveller’s paradise. Guests arrive at the resort from the airport in the time it takes to eat a sandwich (a really big sandwich, but you get the picture). A regularly-serviced pier is mere minutes away, as is the charming Fisherman’s Village, where a night market fills the streets each Friday. The effervescent Chaweng, home to the island’s raucous nightlife, is close enough to enjoy, but far enough that you won’t hear (or feel) any pumping bass. Second, the aforementioned sunrise/sunset combination from the W’s beachfront is phenomenal. Beach loungers, shaded by umbrellas, line the shore, offering a comfortable spot to watch the show unfold. This might the best-placed resort on Samui, if not in Thailand. Lastly, W Retreat has taken on the challenge of competing with some of Samui’s biggest clubs for title of best nightspot on the party-centric island. Hordes of glammed-up holidaymakers and locals flock to the resort’s Woo Bar for happy hours and big events. The parties may end earlier than others, but their popularity can’t be denied. And the fact that people are willing to travel from all over the island — sometimes from all over Thailand — to get there is testament to W Retreat’s top-notch drinks, DJs, and beautiful people. bangkok101.com
hotel review
A perennial favourite perk is the “Whatever, Whenever” service, which, says a check-in clerk with a wry smile, “covers anything, as long as it’s legal.” With the press of a button on the phone (anytime, day or night), food, drinks, massages, and more are served up however you want them. The service embodies W’s playful side, though discreetly. More obvious examples come through in the resort’s wordplay. In lieu of the standard “reserved” signs on restaurant tables, here they read “promised.” Complimentary toothbrushes ask, rhetorically, “Who’s got pearly whites?” (You do, of course). Whether kitsch or cool, the light-hearted phrases represent the brand’s attempt to shake off the shackles of convention. Subtle efforts to seem different, off-colour, or sultry, as it were, have influenced all aspects of the property, from comfort to cuisine. Dinner at the famed Namu provides a decidedly modern culinary journey. The team of chefs have reframed classic Japanese cuisine, standing with blowtorches and smiles behind a semiseparated kitchen in which diners can watch them prepare delicacies that burst with flavour. Sashimi pizza, topped with caviar, and green tea tiramisu are wellmade riffs on fusion cuisine. Although Japanese-Italian is a familiar mixing of foreign styles and tastes, at Namu the dishes never feel tired or confused, thanks to expert preparation and presentation. bangkok101.com
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The neighbouring open-air beachfront Sip bar attracts post-dinner crowds. Each cocktail features a special twist, clear inventive touches that unite even the most traditional booze mixers with the resort’s acting principles. Breakfast — served until 11am, for those who spend too much time at Sip or prefer to stay wrapped up like a cocoon in the soft bedsheets — is an elaborate feast. Served at the ocean-facing restaurant, The Kitchen Table, the breakfast features perfectly-poached eggs, herb-infused sausages, platters of smoked salmon, golden pastries, and more. Imported cheese is kept fresh in the fridge, and fresh fruit juices, as well as coffee and tea, round out the daily smorgasbord. Every moment at W Retreat, holiday dreams take definite shape. Even getting to your room resembles reverie, as an electric buggy whisks you down a paved alley toward the blue horizon and your elaborate digs. The only time the dreams die is at check-out, when the cold, hard reality of leaving enters the frame. After so much time in the resort’s embrace, you become unaccustomed to disappointment.
W RETREAT SAMUI 4/1 Moo 1, Mae Nam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 0 7791 5999 | wretreatkohsamui.com
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Yoga on the Rocks: Recharge your batteries with a wellness retreat in paradise
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Wake Up to Wellness Thailand’s top island escapes invigorate holidays with detox, yoga, and nutrition retreats in tropical splendour BY KAILA KRAYEWSKI
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here is something about the islands in the Gulf of Thailand — Samui, Phangan, and Tao — that makes them ideal for wellness retreats. It could be the fresh ocean air. It could be the back-to-nature vibe. Or it could be you’ve just attended a Full Moon Party and your liver now hates you. Whatever your reason to get healthy, you have plenty of programmes to choose from, all set within the vanilla sands and lush jungles of the trio of gulf islands. From detox weekends to yoga retreats that cleanse mind, body,
Stress-relieving massage at Kamalaya bangkok101.com
and soul; from lavish high-end options for those with no constraints to great on-the-cheap methods for the budgetconscious, Samui, Phangan, and Tao house some of Thailand’s top get-healthy destinations. DE-MYSITIFY THE DETOX The term “detox” gets thrown around a lot these days. People try all different methods to rid their body of toxins that they’ve spent years building up. For many, this
All levels of yoga practitioners are welcome at Agama JUNE 2015 | 51
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Treatment for mind, body, and soul at Kamalaya on Koh Samui means enrolling in a programme where, under the watchful eye of trained guides, guests undergo tried and true cleansing methods. In the Gulf of Thailand, detox programmes abound, but a few stand above the rest. Still, before you start any treatment, it’s best to do research to find out what you’re getting into. Otherwise, you may be in for an unexpected surprise (colon cleanse, anyone?) The Sanctuary Time spent at The Sanctuary, on Koh Phangan’s Haad Thian East beach, is the stuff of travel legend. This decadesold resort has hosted countless happy customers, many of whom stay far longer than they had originally planned. Its secluded location, combined with its fantastic healthorientated facilities (they even have a yoga space topped by a pyramid that’s been astrologically-aligned with the Great Pyramid of Giza), scrumptious vegetarian and detoxorientated restaurant, and funky vibe, make it a wise choice for total wellness. Rumour has it this hotspot stoked the fire for Alex Garland’s quintessential travel tale, The Beach. Kamalaya For something a little more upscale, Koh Samui’s Kamalaya has the accolades and accoutrements to back up its lofty reputation. Nestled into a cave once used by Buddhist monks as a spiritual refuge, Kamalaya has perhaps the most appropriate location on the island for soul searching and mind/body renewal. Accommodation options are posh, ranging from sea view suites to 52 | JUNE 2015
beachfront pool villas with two bedrooms. Like The Sanctuary, yoga is also available and can be combined with any detox programme. YOGA YOUR WAY You don’t have to be a master of backbends to partake in a yoga retreat. In fact, you’ll quickly learn that there is far more to yoga than flexibility. Yoga retreats usually consist of one session in the morning and one in the late afternoon. Many can even be combined with detox packages. There are many to choose from on the islands, each offering a singular experience, but two of the best in the crowd are located on Koh Phangan. Agama Yoga Acting as not just a yoga school, but a yoga university, Agama Yoga has an incredible 22 levels of learning. Their first-level intensive course is the most popular. At 28 days, with around six hours of tuition per day, it is every bit as intensive as the title suggests. But don’t be put off by the challenge. Many students are forthcoming with the words “life changing” when they describe their experiences at the school. There is some controversy about things that go on behind the scenes (it is a tantric yoga school, after all; what do you expect?), but if you want to experience yoga at a depth that goes far beyond its asanas, Agama’s classes will nourish your mind with knowledge that can be applied to everyday life. bangkok101.com
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Up-dog on the sand with Agama
Organic, irresistible: Orion offers more than just yoga Orion Healing Centre Imagine waking up to fresh ocean air and easing into an early ashtanga class in a sala set on the beach. After class, you enjoy a freshly-blended smoothie that not only tastes delicious, but also does wonderful things for your body. This is the modus operandi at Orion, which, like Agama, is situated on the west coast of Koh Phangan. Orion has a style all its own. It takes a laidback approach to yoga, and its detox choices can be combined with yoga to great effect. WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, DO IT YOURSELF Wellness programs like these — even ones with low-rent dorms like The Sanctuary and Orion Healing Centre — can put a dent in the old pocketbook. If you’re on a budget, know that it’s possible, and surprisingly easy, to embark on your own DIY detox on these postcard islands. Many detox centres offer packages without accommodation, but don’t advertise it. Take a bold step and inquire within so that you can have all the benefits of the detox without having to shell out for expensive accommodation. Samui, Phangan, and Tao are packed with nutritionallyaware shops and restaurants. Sri Thanu on Koh Phangan’s West Coast is home to at least five healthy cafés within walking distance of each other. This gives you a chance to get in a little exercise before you unwind on the beach. bangkok101.com
Fresh vegetarian food and juice at The Sanctuary A new delivery service called Nature Home Asia ships all manner of health food — superfood, raw, and organic — to all three islands. While the service provides the proper nutrition for your body, the “mind and soul” aspects of the treatment trinity remain in your hands. However you choose to do it, there is no such thing as a bad cleanse. Unless you really fall off the wagon, that is! Find the place that’s right for you, or channel your inner Martha Stewart and do it yourself for a totally bespoke approach. Whether you take wellness into your hands or trust in the direction of others, you’ll still bask in the glory of a refreshing, hangover-free island escape as you breathe in the salt-sweet sea breeze each morning.
For more great detox options, check out the following: • TheSanctuaryThailand.com • AbsoluteSanctuary.com (also offers yoga) • OceanSoundKohTao.com (also offers diving packages)
For other top yoga spots to check out:
• Kamalaya.com (yoga can be combined with detox programmes) • YogaRetreat-KohPhangan.com
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BANGKOK’S BEACH KOH SAMET: THE CITY’S GREAT ESCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANUPONG HOTAWAISAYA
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oh Samet holds a special place in the hearts of weekend warriors. A mere three hours from the capital, Samet has for decades lured the most fatigued city folk to its white-sand shores with the promise of total release. Particularly popular on long weekends and holidays, the island is a kind of paradise, a place where regrets don’t exist and the sea sparkles like a desert oasis, even in the relentless rainy season. Considering its proximity to Bangkok, Samet has remained mercifully free of major development. Although the island first popped up on the foreign traveller radar in the 1970s, restrictions on over-night stays remained in place until 1981, when the little green landmass and its environs were incorporated as the Khao Laem Ya-Mu Koh Samet National Park. The days of hammocks and tents have long passed, although the island still boasts sandy tracks instead of tarmac. Ao Phrao and Haad Sai Kaew now feature boutique and high-end hotels pressed up
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against thatch-roofed huts while bars and restaurants blur the edges of the beaches. Though the sands may seem limited and the recreational activities unremitting, the island has a magnetic charm. Centuries ago, the venerable Sunthorn Phu penned an epic poem set on Samet. Today, the literary luminary is immortalized in iron. Thai families, couples, and students mark their trips with a photo next to a statue of the icon, as if a rite of passage. With the requisite shot out of the way, the real fun begins. A typical weekend on the island means speedboats, selfies, and matching swim trunks — it means food, fire shows, booze, and beach. It’s blue-collar Bangkokians letting down their hair and revving up the engines, kids splashing around in the gray sea, and a peculiar mishmash of foreigners and locals mingling over rum and coke. This is Thai culture on holiday, through the lens of a digital SLR.
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RICE IS NICE Myanmar artist Aung Kyaw Htet is a devout Buddhist who grew up in a small village, two factors which have a strong influence on his art. Internationally known for his paintings of monks and nuns and Buddhist life in his home country, the 50-year-old artist’s current exhibition, Rice Is Nice, depicts the cultivation of this integral agrarian staple and its contribution to the growth and wealth of Asia. In this series of oil paintings, he explores the journey of rice – from planting, to harvest, and kitchen – and how rice is used in various religious and non-religious contexts in Myanmar. Aung Kyaw Htet studied at the State School of Fine Arts in Yangon and has participated in several exhibitions in Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan, India, Dubai, and Monaco. His works are also on display in the museum collections of the National Museum of Myanmar and the National Art Gallery of Malaysia. Rice Is Nice is on view from June 20 to July 18 at Thavibu Gallery, JTC Jewelry Trade Center, 4th Fl., Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd. The gallery is open from Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm. Contact 0 2266 5454 for more information.
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exhibitions
HEAVEN MADE
ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 0 2422 2092 | Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
June 9-July 19 The “Heaven Made” art exhibition presents paintings with the concept dealing with belief and faith. People nowadays have been taught to think of and believe in the core of Buddhism, which has been interpreted differently and individually by groups of believers, doctrines, religious institutions, etc. As a result, the philosophy and teaching of Buddhism lead to the variation in practice which could be coated with divergent illusions.
KONDAMNI
H GALLERY 201 Soi 12 Sathorn Rd | 08 1310 4428 | 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment | hgallerybkk.com I BTS Surasak
Until July 26 H Project is very pleased to announce an installation by the Bangkok émigré artist Nevdon Jamgochian. KONDAMNI is an on-going project where the artist engages with the built pretensions of civilization and the world’s often secret histories of trauma. Essentially interested in the fragility we continue to fail to recognize in monumental symbols and narratives, Jamgochian draws on the prophecies of literature and signs of the future to prompt awareness of the inevitability of the temporary and finite.
CROSS OVER: THE UNVEILED COLLECTION
BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd | 0 2214 6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium
Until June 14 With dire support and virtually no state-funded public art collections to preserve the legacy of Thai art, private collectors are the only keepers of an archive of the national development of modern and contemporary art. Highly subject to personal tastes, key works from several collectors’ vaults have been brought together for a rare public viewing.
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exhibitions
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THE READING THE (IN) HABITANT: A VISUAL ART EXHIBITION BY LIKAYBINDERY KOI ART GALLERY 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31| 0 2662 3218 | 10am-7pm | koiartgallerybangkok.com
Until June 14 This is a showcase from Likaybindery, an independent studio specialising in handmade bookbinding and the production of book-related artwork. The studio was founded in 2005 by Mali Chulakiet and Phantipa Thanchookiet, two artists who share a passion for books and their aesthetic appeal. Using paper tomes as a medium, Chulakiet and Thanchookiet explore structure, texture, scale, and content design, which they present as sculptural installations.
67 RICHTER
ART CENTRE SILPAKORN UNIVERSITY 31 Na Phra Lan Rd, Phra Borommaharachawang, Phra Nakorn | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat 9am-4pm | art-centre.su.ac.th
June 2-17 Hundreds of fascinating oeuvres by final year students from the Faculty of Painting Sculpture and Graphic Art will be exhibited at the main art gallery of Silpakorn University. 67 Richter is a collection of paintings, sculptures, graphic arts and installations from students’ final projects. After 5 years (or more) of sharpening their skills with many of famous national artists, students gathered here to show the public what they’ve got with their masterpieces.
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Out With the Old, In With the New Staged as part of La Fête 2015, Jitti Chompee’s interpretation of Bizet’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles revitalizes an operatic jewel BY TOM VITAYAKUL
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n less than a decade Jitti Chompee has earned a place among the greatest dancers and choreographers in Thailand. Although educated in chemical engineering, his passion was always dance. As an adult, he dropped engineering and trained in classical ballet in Hong Kong and New York. After years working as a professional dancer abroad, in 2010 he returned to Bangkok, where he founded 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre.
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Since then, Jitti has been invited to choreograph, perform, and produce several productions in Asia and Europe. His company continues to thrive as he and his partners strive to merge Thai classical dance with modern movements and visuals. Participating in La Fête 2015, he will showcase his interpretation of Georges Bizet’s famous opera, Les Pêcheurs de Perles (The Pearl Fishers). bangkok101.com
interview
Can you explain the creative process that drove your latest project? I had a three-month residency in Paris in 2014, which was supported by the Embassy of France and the Institut Français. My time there inspired me to create more freespirited, cross-cultural pieces. This project introduces choreographic elements into Les Pêcheurs de Perles via minimalistic music that balances the classical and the modern. I’m also very interested in photography, and so I have been working with Juan Carlos Toledo, who was a dancer and photographer for the shows in France and the Netherlands, where it was first performed earlier this year. My interpretation will combine a contemporary dance performance and a photography exhibition. As for La Fête 2015, I hope to have a positive impact on local and international performing arts communities, as well as the audience. How did you feel reinterpreting such a classic opera? Opera is a form of obsession, one of revisiting the past rather than creating the future. Working with Les Pêcheurs de Perles has been challenging. It’s one of the standards in the operatic canon that remain exclusively the privilege of traditionalists. Today, it’s considered old-fashioned, lacking contemporary substance, relevance, and human meaning. So it gave me a unique opportunity to throw preconceptions away and converse with the audience in new ways, an opportunity that usually doesn’t exist with much of the operatic repertoire. I felt the need to make it more conceptually compelling. Ultimately, I chose to apply dance and theatrical innovations to evoke emotions from such a classic piece. What inspired your choreography? The choreographic process was inspired by Pablo Picasso’s cubist paintings. They gave me the idea to create choreography and scenography from perspectives that reflect the Modern Age. I’ve always been interested in blending Eastern and Western cultures. I try to do that here by converging classical Thai Khon dance (the mask dance) and contemporary dance in narrating the story. It was a bold task to integrate both cultures within one bangkok101.com
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artistic piece. Still, I wanted to provide an alternative voice, both aesthetically and socially, to the art world through my new creation for this year’s La Fête. Why did you choose to stage the performance in a parking lot? Are you drawn to obscure locations? I picked the Rose Hotel as the venue because I like to challenge myself to find hidden locations in the city — places surrounded by tall buildings that conceal old and beautiful classic houses. My performance will be site-specific, as it was inspired by and created around the space in which we stage. I think the audience will be surprised at how we found unknown, unexplored venues, such as P. Tendercool Warehouse, Jam Factory, the Rose Hotel, and the swimming pool where we performed Demon in Venice. What inspired your photographic exhibition? Apart from opera, I have this great urge to unite my choreography with photography. I really want to transform the choreographic works in my imagination, ideas that sometimes cannot be interpreted as movements or are not practical in reality. I want to move my thoughts away from realism and into the world of narrative abstraction that photography provides. Photos can be exhibited anywhere public — markets, the metro, bridges where people can view and appreciate art as part of their daily life. Through photography, I can reach people in their local areas.
Jitti Chompee’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles will be performed at the Rose Hotel Bangkok at 8pm on June 15 and 16. The photographic exhibition opens on June 15. • Director and Choreographer: Jitti Chompee • Performers: Pattarasuda Anuman Rajadhon, Juan Carlos Toledo, and Krittin Kiatmetha • Singers: Yannick Badier and Yannis François • Pianist and Music Adviser: Jean-Paul Pruna • Light Designer: Jirach Eiamsa-ard • Photographer: Juan Carlos Toledo
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cheat notes
TELLING THE UNTOLD An extraordinary history of Chinese movement, emergence, and integration in Thailand
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hinese heritage is woven into the fabric of Thai culture. Cuisine, clothing, and even religion in Thailand were shaped and reshaped by the influence of the Chinese diaspora and the community’s assimilation into society. And yet, this Southeast Asian success story has been left remarkably untold. A History of the ThaiChinese, a new book from Jeffery Sng and Pimpraphai Bisalputra, unearths the narrative of the diaspora, shining light on Thailand’s most notable migrant population. The illustrated A History of the Thai-Chinese traces the movement from eastern Guangdong to Ayudhya, Thonburi, and the court of Siam. Between 1351 and 1767, waves of migrant Chinese flocked to ports, cities, and rural provinces in Siam. Rich and poor, rice traders and merchants, royal advisors who would become nobles in time — the ethnic Chinese came from all walks of life, clearing hurdles both political and cultural along the path to integration. Over 448 pages and eight chapters that collate tales from the 14th century to the present day, Sng 62 | JUNE 2015
and Bisalputra detail the comprehensive history of the diaspora, sharing actual success stories of prominent Thai-Chinese families. To supplement the facts, they have included archived and contemporary photos, old documents, and hand-drawn illustrations. Academic without sounding pedantic, the text bursts to life as the authors’ vast knowledge spills out onto the pages. Wasana Wongsurawat PhD, from the Department of History at Chulalongkorn University, says of the book, “A History of the Thai-Chinese does a splendid job of filling the long-neglected gap in the studies of the ethnic Chinese in Southeast Asia… This masterpiece has opened a much needed new horizon in the studies of the Chinese diaspora.” A History of the Thai-Chinese is available at all Asia Books and Kinokuniya outlets, as well as other leading bookstores in Thailand, priced at B1295. For more information, please visit edmbooks.com. bangkok101.com
FREE
HOUSE WINE OR DRAFT BEER EVERYDAY
CELEBRATE
THE LAUNCH OF NEW BISTRO M MENU!
Every day, the first 5 customers to order a main course from our new menu will receive a complimentary glass of house wine or draft beer. For more information or reservations, contact 02 302 5555. 90 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Klongton, Klongtoey | Bangkok 10110, Thailand T: 66 (0) 2 302 5555 | F: 66 (0) 2 302 5252 | E: measukhumvitpark@marriott.com www.bistrombangkok.com | www.facebook.com/marriottsukhumvitpark
JUNE 1 - 30, 2015
art & culture photofeature
Programme of Events • Renaissance Music by Ensemble Doulce Mémoire June 3, 7pm | Grand Auditorium of Chulalongkorn University • Entr'Ecoles/Regards Croisés – Kanjana Chonsiri/Alexandre Poisson June 5-21 | Bridge Café and Art Space • Detour of the Ego – Lek Kiatsirkajorn June 12-July 4 | Bangkok University Gallery • Notte - 14:20 Company June 13, 8pm | Chulalongkorn University, Fl 6 Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Building • Les Pecheurs de Perles – Jitti Chompee June 15-16, 8pm | The Rose Hotel Bangkok • In Angel's Jungle – Rush Pleansuk and Philippe Moisan June 18 - July 19 | Alliance Francaise Bangkok • Standards – Pierre Rigal Company June 19, 8pm | Chulalongkorn University, Fl 6 Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Building • Hip Hop Battle and DJ Party June 20, 2pm - late | Live House Studio, JJ Green From June 3-20, the Big Mango transforms into the City of Light, as La Fête takes over the capital. The festival, organized by the Embassy of France in Thailand, promotes cross-cultural understanding through visual art exhibitions, magic shows, and music and dance performances. One of the most prestigious festivals in Thailand, La Fête kicks off its 11th edition with a performance of RenaissanceEra music at the Grand Auditorium of Chulalongkorn University. Led by Ensemble Doulce Mémoire, the concert comprises 18th-century attire, dancing, and acrobatics and will be chaired by HRH Princess Sirindhorn. Over the next three weeks, performances will dot the cityscape, from Silpakorn University to JJ Green. Many exhibits will show the work of Thai artists who completed residencies or studied in France, and other events will highlight young talent in the Kingdom’s alternative art scene (for example, in the hip-hop dance competition). One of the most engaging exhibitions is sure to be Jitti Chompee’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles, a Thai Khon-style dance based on the opera by Georges Bizet but elevated by contemporary influences, at The Rose Hotel (118 Soi Na Wat Hua Lamphong, Surawong Rd) on June 15 and 16. Tickets for events cost B250 for adults and B150 for students and those 25 and under. For more information about all events, please visit lafete-bangkok.com.
Jitti Chompee - Les Pecheurs de Perles Lek Kiatsirikajorn - Detour of the Ego
Pierre Rigal Company - Standards
Opening Concert - Doulce Memoire - Renaissance Music
Juan Carlos Toledo - Les Pecheurs de Perles Ensemble Doulce Memoire
AUSTRALIAN WAGYU, CUT IN THE PREMIUM ENTRECÔTE STYLE AT LE BOEUF, SEE P78
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AROY A NEW HIGH-OCTANE CAFÉ
Mercedes-Benz is the latest big-name brand to open its own pop-up café. Designed by Thai architect Winai Chairakpong and set in the glamorous Emporium, the café features a little of the expected — a showroom displaying new car models — and a dash of the unexpected — an exhibition space. The menu was designed by Chef Mirco Keller of Water Library Chamchuri and serves German-inspired dishes like black forest ham sandwiches, German salmon in cream sauce, and Donauwelle, a traditional chocolate sheet cake served with cherry sorbet. Wine, cocktails, beer, coffee, and soft drinks comprise the beverages. The café is only open until the end of July, so visit soon. Open daily from 10am-10pm.
WINE TO YOUR HEART’S DELIGHT
Bar@494, at the Grand Hyatt Erawan, offers two hours of unlimited drinks from its wine buffet. Enjoy free flow premium wines, all hand-picked by the house sommelier, for B599++ per person. Red, white, or sparkling, whatever your style, you’re sure to be pleased. The promotion runs daily from 7pm-9pm. Come early, if you’re thirsty, for “two-for-one” happy hour deals on wine, beer, whiskey, and other premium spirits from 5pm-7pm. For reservations, please call 0 2254 6250 or email restaurants.bangh@hyatt.com.
ALL-DAY ITALIAN
Soi Ruamrudee is home to a brand-new Italian bistro. Italics offers timeless recipes from the Mediterranean nation made with 100-percent locally sourced products. The restaurant stays open all day, from 8am until 11pm, serving fresh gourmet coffee with bread, granola, and pastries at breakfast; set lunches for businesspersons on the go; and a la carte specialties for dinner. For a limited time, you can subscribe to the “Coffee for Life” promotion for B1000 and get gourmet coffee for life. For more information, please visit italicsrestaurant.com.
BONJOUR, BANGKOK!
A new French bar-bistro has opened on Sathorn Soi 10, a suddenly super-hot restaurant hub. Marcel offers French tapas — think: beef tartare, cold cuts and cheese, and pork terrine — and hardier fare, like homemade foie gras, lamb short loin, and mussels marinière. The narrow, soft-lit space is also a solid place to go for a drink, with beer, cocktails, and spirits all available. For more information, please call 0 2635 3533 or email marcelbkk@gmail.com.
DINE AND DASH
Feast at Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers and Thai AirAsia invite you to a very special ASEAN Sunday brunch. The promotion offers “come four, pay three” prices, which nets you the chance to win four round-trip tickets to Ho Chi Minh City with Thai AirAsia, plus a complimentary stay at Le Meridien Saigon for four persons. On top of the usual selection of international dishes, the restaurant is also serving cuisine from around the region — laksa, mee goreng, Vietnamese spring rolls, and tom yam koong — for B1780 nett per person. The promotion runs until July 26, from 11.30am-3pm. For more information or reservations, please call 0 2266 9214 or email events.rosh@sheraton.com.
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meal deals LIVEN UP YOUR LUNCH BY THE RIVER RAMADA PLAZA BANGKOK MENAM RIVERSIDE 2074 Charoenkrung Rd | 0 2688 1000 | ramadaplazamenamriverside.com From Monday to Saturday, between 11.30am and 2.30pm, Terrace@72 is offering a mouthwatering new lunch set. For B220++, enjoy the refreshing Menam Salad Sensation, with a range of selections from the salad bar. For an extra B270, add a main course, such as pizza, pasta, roasted pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon, or grilled lamb cutlet with mashed potatoes and ratatouille, as well as a dessert.
MOCKTAIL MAYHEM BRASSERIE 9 Warehouse 9, Waterfront Zone, Asiatique The Riverfront l 0 2108 4288 l brasserie9.com Right around the corner from Terrace@72, and also along the river, Brasserie 9 has unveiled three new mocktails to help you cool off and unwind. Dubbed “Taste Me,” “Blue Angel,” and “Berry Sparkler,” the trio are mixed with a bottle of Perrier sparkling water and come in at B250++ per glass. The food menu has plenty of fine dishes to pair with the mocktails, too, all available from 3pm-12am.
CAPITAL ASSETS THE CAPITAL BY WATER LIBRARY Level 3, Empire Tower, South Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 9548 | waterlibrary.com Quench your thirst with an exciting array of craft beer, wines, and cocktails, all starting at B99 during happy hour, between 5pm and 8pm from Monday and Saturday. Various snacks are also available, including crab cakes, Wagyu tartare, mini cheese burgers, and Wagyu meatballs. On Friday, the food and drinks come with award-winning live entertainment in the form of Mahidol College of Music’s jazz band.
BIG BRUNCH IN THE BIG BLU RADISSON BLU BANGKOK 489 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2302 3333 | radissonblu.com/plazahotel-bangkok Visually stunning, the Big Blu Brunch serves up a range of dishes across two levels, each featuring live cooking stations. This feast of flavours includes Indian, Vietnamese, Thai, and European dishes, as well as a dedicated pasta station, a stunning seafood selection, and dim sum. Also available are copious desserts and imported cheeses. The brunch is priced at B1490++ per person, including free flow soft drinks, and B1790++ per person, including free flow soft drinks and select alcoholic beverages.
BUBBLES, BRUNCH, AND A BAND KAI NEW ZEALAND 142/22-23 Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok.com Kai has upped the ante in the brunch game, bringing in a five-piece jazz band, Space Trio + Two, from 12.30pm to 3.30pm every Sunday. Enjoy prime cuts of New Zealand meat, as well as an impressive selection of burgers and sandwiches, alongside quality drinks. There’s also a special offer on booze, with French champagne bottles priced at B1950++ and a 20 percent discount on all other bubbles.
THE SUNDAY SHUFFLE SHUFFLE RESTAURANT Rainhill at Sukhumvit 47 | 0 2261 6992 | facebook.com/shufflerestaurant Shuffle restaurant is now serving a weekend brunch built around a solid selection of Americanstyle cuisine. Every Sunday and Saturday, from 10am until 2pm, tantalize your taste buds with charred broccolini with snow peas and spicy guacamole, or buttermilk pancakes with fresh fruit, toasted nuts, and whipped mascarpone. Fresh juices, as well as homemade granola and yogurt, are also available. 72 | JUNE 2015
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YUUTARO - The Raw Art of Japanese Cuisine Four cuts of seafood rest on rice. Snow white, cherry blossom pink, sunburst. The colour of the flesh deepens down the line. Wasabi’s alkaline smell mingles with a smoke-like perfume. Inside the steelgray private dining room, the air gets warmer with each breath. Like paint on canvas, nigiri on porcelain elicits a rising tide of emotions. Yuutaro’s sushi seems almost too perfect to eat. Opened by the team behind Yuutaro in Thong Lo, this branch serves a similar menu to the flagship, but with a few cuts and additions, providing a slightly more universal appeal for Central Embassy’s varied clientele. Raw food stars. Sushi and sashimi — toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. The chefs put forward a few daring touches, but by and large stick to the formula that works. Who could blame them? Premium ingredients never need exaggeration. The menu is divided, pragmatically, into basic categories. While purists might prefer to order a la carte, the sushi and sashimi sets are a solid choice for amateurs and authorities alike. Yuba salad maki (B450 half/B800 full) throws a curveball at traditional sushi rolls, using tofu rather than seaweed as a wrapper. Stuffed with salmon, tuna, shrimp, and avocado, the soft texture is contrasted by lettuce and sweet, tangerine-tinted salmon roe that burst when bitten. bangkok101.com
Nothing about this dish is small — not the roe and not the maki, which have the girth of sliced marrow bones. Modern choices adhere to the minimalist principles of Japanese food arrangement (we eat with our eyes first, after all). Aburi sushi set (B1500) presents five kinds of untraditional nigiri: four topped with lightly smoked fish and one with Wagyu. From first to last, the sushi builds in depth and complexity, starting with a fatty tuna and then moving up to flounder, Hokkaido scallop topped with smelt roe, king crab, and Wagyu. The Suki set (B650 half/ B1200 full) captures the flavours and textures of sukiyaki in a Wagyu-wrapped roll. Each maki, bursting with tofu, green onion, and bok choy, is first dipped in beaten raw egg yolk before being consumed. Strange, yes, but the legendary fire-and-fruit taste and butter-melt mouthfeel of the beef is enough to make a sushi fan swoon. For dessert, a green tea lava cake (B200) reads like poetry on the plate. Cake shaped like a cordial holds a green tea-laced chocolate sauce within its moist walls. Broken, the sauce empties onto a cloud of whipped cream, through which a strawberry rises like the sun.
YUUTARO Fl 5, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd | 0 2160 5880-1 yuutaro.com | daily 11am-10.30pm
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FIREPLACE GRILL - A Legendary Cut Above A landmark on the local dining scene for over four decades, Fireplace Grill at the InterContinental Bangkok continues to delight with superior grilled meats, fresh seafood, and seasonally changing menus complemented by a wine list that ranges from a 2004 vintage Château Margaux at B81000 a bottle to more modest offerings priced around B1000+. Softly-lit interiors, high-backed chairs, starched linen table cloths, unobtrusive yet efficient staff... Fireplace Grill has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers. This bastion of beef and French classics is now under the stewardship of Austrian Chef de Cuisine Sebastian Reischer, who says his goal is to “blend traditional and modern grill techniques to create time-honoured flavours characterised by a distinctive lighter, healthier touch.” It is a concept borne out in his recommendations for an appetiser, Beef Tatar with Smoked Salmon Crème and Caviar (B800). Fresh and tender with a lingering subtle smoky-salty flavour, it is accompanied by pieces of grilled toast to add textural crunch. As a counterpoint he also suggests Pan Fried Scallops (B1000), sweet, plump morsels of goodness served with cauliflower espuma, crispy cauliflower, chorizo, and a tangy Parmesan crunch. At this point dedicated carnivores will be perusing 74 | J U N E 2 0 1 5
the menu’s steak offerings with a critical eye, and they won’t be disappointed. The choice runs from a 400-day Stockyard Wagyu tenderloin (B4000, 200g, marble score 8+) and a 500-day Tajima Wagyu sirloin (B3000, 300g), to a Riverina grain fed Angus rib eye (B1800, 200g) and a Darling Downs Wagyu flank steak (B800, 200g), with a number of cuts in between. Whichever you choose, these steaks are cooked to succulent perfection based on individual preference and served with a choice of wild mushroom fricassee, Shiraz glace, peppercorn sauce, and Béarnaise or Café de Paris butter. Of course, not everyone is a beef eater, and there are plenty of delicious main course options beyond the bovine. Particularly good is 48 Hour Braised Pork Belly (B900), a tender piece of Chicharron pork served with pan-roasted scallop, crispy Chorizo, apple mustard and sticky jus. Also worth trying is Challan Duck (B1600), confit-style rose pink pieces of duck breast beautifully presented with chickpea puree, a duck glace, and crispy salty pieces of duck skin. A perennial favourite with the city’s foodies, Fireplace Grill hasn’t lost its magic touch.
FIREPLACE GRILL InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0444 ext.5505 Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm.
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GARIBALDI’S - A Splash of Colour from the Mediterranean A “father of the fatherland” seems a peculiar muse for a restaurant. Then again, politics and food are as inseparable as bodies and shadows, and, in a sense, Italian General Giuseppe Garibaldi represents the revolutionary ideals that this colourful outlet on Sukhumvit 16 has strived to achieve. Prosecco cocktails? A Mediterranean menu that borders on fusion, but doesn’t feel tired, complicated, nor entirely fused? Symmetrical, post-industrial design? The General would be proud. “Fusion” is a loaded word. Its use in culinary lingo often sends diners racing the other direction. Garibaldi’s, however, ventures into this murky rhetorical territory without hesitation. Chef Marco Rosato, an Italian who worked in Paris, has shaped and sharpened a menu of Mediterranean cuisine that reflects his diverse professional experience. The dishes aren’t game-changing, per se, but rather smart and so well-executed that the regional undertones lift rather than muddle them. The grilled halloumi, roasted beet, and spinach salad (B290), a Cypriot specialty, dances from flavour to favour, the brine of goat cheese playing a balancing act with balsamic vinaigrette. Petite pine nuts give crunch to contrast smooth elements. While the salad may have a definite sphere of influence, it jells with the freshness that embodies the spirit of Mediterranean cuisine. An asparagus and seafood soup (B260), which bangkok101.com
includes a shrimp perched tail-up in the forest-green broth like a buoy in the shoal, offsets earthy, puréed asparagus with sweet cherry tomatoes and buttery shellfish. The soup sets up hardier fare, such as house-made ravioli in black truffle cream (B440). Four pillows of spinach-filled pasta, buried in a sauce flecked with truffle flotsam, cradle an egg yolk. When broken, the yolk sends the sauce over the top; soft and rich, with a texture like melted marshmallow, its decadence could silence the city’s most strident mouths. France makes an appearance, albeit in a supporting role, in pan-fried pigeon on porcini risotto (B540). The saltsweet kick of a moon-shaped parmesan tuile evens out the smoky bird, and ideal bite in the Arborio rice suggests Garibaldi’s has found the formula for fusion success. Though Rosato pulls off these gallivanting styles, the most memorable dishes nevertheless return to his Italian roots. Swordfish with capers, black olives, and piquant cherry tomato sauce (B490), a dish filled with energy, shouts “Italy!” to the rafters. The only appropriate way to cap a Mediterranean journey like this is with an espresso from the bar — an espresso martini, of course.
GARIBALDI’S Somserset Lake Point Tower A, 41 Sukhumvit 16 | 0 2262 0835 garibaldisbangkok.com | open daily
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review
PRAI RAYA - Spicing up Bangkok with Southern Thai Specialties Beautiful beaches, never-ending nightlife, and oldschool architecture aren’t the only things that make Phuket a dream destination. The culinary traditions of the island elicit fond recollections of past meals. Strong southern spices and fresh seafood are just too good to forget. For more than 20 years, Raya has offered genuine southern food to Phuket’s visitors, the family recipes passed down by generations. But Raya’s secrets aren’t exclusive to the island. With the debut of Prai Raya, the owner’s niece shares her family’s cuisine with a hungry capital. Owner Prai has brought more than a culinary legacy with her to Bangkok. Thanks to Sino-Portuguese architecture and stately interiors, the space resembles the outlet down South. Yellow walls, ivory-coloured ceilings, and green accents give this vintage, two-storey house spirit. Like the interiors, the menu features all the delicacies served at Raya, plus a couple of exciting new items, all matching fresh, high-quality ingredients with authentic preparation. Take a crab meat curry with wild betel leaf (B400/ B600) as an example. The curry paste releases its fragrance and flavour when cooked, providing heat to balance the fresh herb and crab meat; noodles served on the side, a typical partner to this dish, add a cooling element. The hor mok (B250), curried crab steamed inside 76 | J U N E 2015
a banana leaf, uses the same curry paste, but includes coconut milk. It has a texture like custard and hides a fierce heat that might require a glass of water to cool off scorched tongues. Other signatures, such as stir-fried stink beans with shrimp paste and prawns (B250), will please any fan of Phuket’s local dining scene. One of Prai’s special additions to the menu is deep-fried river prawns with spicy shrimp paste (B480). Served in the shell, the succulent meat pulls out easily with the touch of a fork and works like a vessel for the spices. It reaches the ideal balance of hot, salty, and sweet. It is practically impossible to resist a refreshing drink, such as cha yen or, better yet, a classic Thai dessert after chowing down on these spicy dishes. Apart from tropical fruit juices, tea, and coffee, whiskey and beer are also available from the mini bar. Desserts, however, are limited to grass jelly and a choice of cakes. Still, if you think Southern dishes are nothing more than heat and more heat, Prai Raya begs to differ. The food here balances spice and subtle flavours to perfection, delivering a taste of Phuket with grace.
PRAI RAYA 59 Sukhumvit 8 (BTS Nana) | 0 2253 5556 facebook.com/PraiRayaSukhumvit8 | daily 10.30am-10.30pm
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review
LE BOEUF - Steak and Frites with a Glass of Wine: A Singular French Experience The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core, this glass-enclosed venue on restaurant-rich Soi Langsuan does just a few things, but it does them all right. Owner David Perret first encountered his “secret” sauce at Le Café de Paris, a popular restaurant in his native Geneva. He acquired the recipe from his late father, who had obtained it from his best friend. After travelling half a world in secrecy, at last it has arrived in Bangkok to the applause of local diners. Perret won’t say precisely what goes into it, but he will divulge that the sauce is butter-based and features ten different ingredients. All mysteries aside, the flavour is rich and redolent of La Belle France. At first, like the iconic Le Relais de Venis L’Entrecôte in Paris after which it is modelled, Le Boeuf served only one main course: steak, covered with that legendary sauce, accompanied by fries and salad (B680). Perret, however, has decided to add salmon (B720) and lamb (B880) to the menu to cater to Thai diners who don’t eat beef. The secondary items are yet to appear on the menu, but the steak is present in all its glory — 180 grams of Australian Wagyu, cut in the premium entrecôte style. For those with 78 | JUNE 2015
more voracious appetites, a 300 gram cut is available as well (B1138). The menu also features five appetizers, all designed to be shared. The Rillettes de Canard (B315), a confit-style duck pâté with a texture as silky as butter, is spectacular when spread on a piece of lightly toasted baguette. A couple of cheese platters rounds out the appetizers. For those who love French desserts (and who doesn’t?), the profiteroles filled with ice cream (B260) are like manna from the heavens. The wine menu features seven whites and seven reds by the glass (125ml), carafe (250ml), or bottle, most of which come in at about B2000 per bottle. There are also excellent house wines available at B180 per glass, B635 per carafe, and B950 per bottle. Steak and wine are like Dolce and Gabbana — it just seems wrong to have one without the other — and few other places in Bangkok offer steak of this pedigree with a glass of the good stuff for under B1000. This alone is reason enough to visit. When combined with the copious French touches, Le Boeuf earns high marks.
LE BOEUF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan 09 3971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com
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san pellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
SAVELBERG Already an established favourite among the business community and hi-end condo dwelling residents in the Ratchadamri area, Savelberg’s high ceilings, picture windows, marble flooring, and mirrored panels have the chic feel and attention to detail that you’d expect of an outlet established by a chef with Michelin star credentials. Dutchman Henk Savelberg and his team place equal focus on their culinary creations. The restaurant’s short menu has six starters (B1200-B3000), eight mains (B1650-B2450) and four desserts, plus cheese (B750-B900). There is also a three-course chef’s suggestion lunch menu (B1800) and a seven-course tasting menu called the Savelberg Experience (B4900), available with a pairing of seven wines (B2940). Part of the Savelberg Experience is a delicate lobster salad (B1350) featuring a quenelle of lobster cream, blobs of lemon gel and a subtle honey and lemon vinaigrette. Slender coils of fresh carrot, daikon, radish and a sprig of fennel provide a good mix of vegetable flavours and a nice crunchy texture. The main course of grilled turbot (B1900) is a beautiful, meaty piece of fish served with good foils in texture and flavor. These range from wild mushrooms, pea puree, fried green asparagus, onion compote, and sweet and sour onions, to the sweet nuttiness of pistachio crumble. Wild mushroom sauce is poured tableside. There are lots of combinations here to keep the palate piqued. The tasting menu ends with a dessert called Citrus (B750), comprising lemon mousse, orange cremeaux, orange gel and lime powder. Spun sugar and meringue give crunch and sweetness against the sours, while a Dutch almond and lemon cookie called a kletskop adds bitter notes. There’s a rich white Valrhona chocolate sorbet also on the plate, and lemon posset served in a separate cup. The wine list (B1700-B32000/bottle) is long, interesting and well balanced, with wines divided by grape rather than region. It offers 13 by the glass (B350-B550), plus three champagnes (B800-B1500). French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with the influence of Chef Henk’s homeland, the food is excellent and befitting of the restaurant’s refined ambience.
SAVELBERG Ground floor, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 800 facebook.com/savelbergth | open Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm
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in the kitchen
LUCA APPINO talks to Michael Moore
Warm and outgoing, Chef Luca Appino, a native of Torino, greets me with a handshake and a playful grin. Getting some chefs to talk is like pulling teeth, but not so with the handsome Luca. A fount of information and firm convictions, he is never reluctant to express himself – a food writer’s dream come true. His restaurant, La Bottega di Luca, is a light and airy place located on the second floor of The Terrace 49 building on Sukhumvit Soi 49. The centrepiece is a large fan-cooled wooden terrace that sits in front of the entrance to a smallish wood-filled dining room. Although casual and informal, this definitely isn’t your average pizza-pasta joint. The menu features a well thought out selection of traditional dishes from all regions of Italy. “So what do you want me to prepare?” Luca asks, as he slips me a menu. “Something simple,” I reply. He eyes me for a second, “Let’s make some pacherri pasta with tomato sauce and burrata cheese. It’s something that I plan to put on the menu soon. It’s so simple even you could make it,” he says, laughing with gusto. We squeeze into the small kitchen and Luca grabs a small frying pan. He fires up a burner and puts in some quality extra virgin olive oil. When it has heated he adds some small teardrop shaped tomatoes that have been halved. “The tomatoes are local,” he says, “but the chopped fresh Italian basil I just added is imported.” He skilfully tosses the tomatoes in the pan. The fire is 82 | JUNE 2015
hot and tossing keeps things from sticking and burning. The tomatoes begin to exude water, creating a thick sauce. As the water evaporates, he replenished it with water from the pan of pacherri pasta, which he has just put on to boil. “We use this water because it has some starch in it. It gives some body to the sauce.” As the sauce thickens, he adds a little salt. “It needs some salt,” he continues, shaking a finger, “but no sugar.” He continues tossing the tomatoes and sauce for a few minutes, adding water when necessary. Finally, he adds some of the now drained pacherri, a tubular pasta similar to rigatoni. “The pasta is 95 percent cooked,” he says, “but we want to finish it in the sauce so that it absorbs some of the flavours.” When he is satisfied, he quits tossing and cooking the sauce and pasta. He quickly places a large dollop of burrata cheese on a plate and carefully arranges some of the pacherri on it. He then adds more burrata. The result is bright and colourful. Later in the dining room, I decide it tastes as good as it looks. And there is no getting around it: preparing this dish is delightfully simple. “No excuses. Now you have something you can do at home,” Luca tells me, flashing his impish grin.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The Terrace 49, 2nd fl, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | Tues-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, daily 5pm-midnight.
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street eats
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eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
OLD BITES ON NEW ROAD
B
angkok transforms after the sun sets. The warmth of the street lights meets the chromatic glow of the shop signs. In the dark, the city’s secrets unfold. This is most true in Talad Noi, the neighbourhood around Charoenkrung Road. By day, it’s busy, unsettled, and cacophonous, a medley of traffic and old-school commerce — shops selling snooker tables, oxygen tanks, and tin boxes; hole-in-the-wall noodle joints; lives being lived as they have for generations. But by night, it relaxes and a hush descends. I love walking down New Road, as Charoenkrung Road is also known. When the shophouses close at sunset, food vendors arrive with their carts and magic happens. Recently, on my way to see live music at nearby Soulbar, my food radar began receiving delicious signals. I followed the smoke trail of a hot wok and found a white, neon light shining down on a menu above a cart on the corner across from Loftel 22, next to an oxygen-tank shop. I was told this street stall, with no formal name, is commonly called “Khao Pad Puu Talad Noi,” after its bestselling item: khao pad puu, or crab fried rice. When the khao pad puu made its way to my table, it looked simple and pallid. But its brilliance became clear with the first bite. Not just any fried rice has this kind of
texture and flavour. Like well-prepared pasta, it was cooked al dente, or “to the tooth,” as they say in Italy. The ingredients, including pieces of cooked egg, rice, and crabmeat, were well-blended. Sprinkling it with white pepper and a squeeze of lime enhanced the taste. Still spellbound by the smells, I ordered pad mee Hong Kong, or Hong Kong fried noodle. At first glance, it didn’t excite me, but the taste blew me away. The noodles were also cooked al dente. Rounded out with shiitake mushrooms, julienned cabbage, and crabmeat, the plate of wok-fried noodles was so exquisite that I lost track of time and nearly missed the live music I had come to see. Address: Khao Pad Puu Talad Noi is located on Charoenkrung Road, opposite 7-Eleven and Loftel 22. It is open daily, except Monday, from 6pm-10pm.
NOW OPEN B R E A K FA S T LUNCH-DINNER Silom Rd.
Narathiwas Rd.
Sathorn Soi 10
Chong Non-si Station
kai
Sathorn Soi 12
Abode
Sathorn Rd.
02-6353800 kainz@kai-bangkok.com
www.facebook.com/kainewzealand N E W Z E A L A N D M o d e r n Kiwi Cuisine
Deli•Cafe•Restaurant•Bar
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www.kai-bangkok.com
142/22-23 Sathorn Soi 12, Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
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listings
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET BAR & GRILL 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 0 2381 6801 | bourbonstbkk.com | 7am-1am | BB A Cajun-Creole cut-out whose vast menu explores the patois of the Louisiana bayou and shines in dishes like crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, and barbeque ribs.
LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 | facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm1am, Sun 5.30-midnight | BB An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious and exotic twists on old world standbys (e.g. truffle fries).
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com | 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.
MOULIN 88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 0 2712 9348 | moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm With a menu that shoots off in different directions, the lack of clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners, but the food — broadly defined as trendy New York fare — does not disappoint.
SHUFFLE Rain Hill, Fl 2, Sukhumvit Soi 47 | 0 2261 6992 | facebook.com/shufflerestaurant | Tues-Fri 4.30pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm American comfort food — think: attractive plates of ribs, burgers, and elevated salads featuring ingredients like quail eggs — served in a chic post-industrial setting. Dishes pair perfectly with Shuffle’s craft beer offerings.
CHINESE CHEF MAN Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 09 3135 5539 | chefmanrestaurant.com | Lunch 11.30am2.30pm, Dinner 6pm-10pm Cantonese classics in all their glory at this posh venue beloved for its dim sum and Peking duck.
LIU 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9999 | conradhotels3.hilton.com | 2pmmidnight A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 84 | JUNE 2015
dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 | chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed.
COMPTOIR EIFFEL 110/1 Soi Prasanmitr, first street on the right in Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2259 3033 | comptoireiffel. com | 11.30am-10pm A Parisian bistro set in the gullet of a bustling Bangkok soi, serving tartare, cold cuts, carpaccio, duck, cheese, and more. Check the chalkboard for the daily specials.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN
BLUE SKY 24F Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | 0 25411234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 6pm-2am Rooftop bars and restaurants in central Bangkok have surged in popularity in recent years. Now, Lad Phrao has a name in the mix, with the ultra-hip Blue Sky. It offers a new perspective of the city’s glittering skyline and a standout menu featuring high-quality Asian and Western dishes. The atmosphere allows for relaxed dining, and the views over Chatuchak Park are fantastic.
THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.
XIN TIAN DI Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk. com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and a la carte
U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4888 | uhotelsresorts.com The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 13-15 | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel. com | 7pm-midnight One of the most interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts adventurous new courses.
MAISON BLANCHE 38 Narathiwat Soi 2 | 0 2634 7939 | maisonblanchebkk.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-11pm A little slice of southern France in the heart of Bangkok. This is contemporary homestyle French cooking its best. Of course, that is not to say it is uncomplicated or lacking sophistication. Far from it.
INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight bangkok101.com
listings The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
CHARCOAL 5th flr Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 11 | 08 9307 1111 | charcoalbkk.com | daily 6pm-11pm No sloppy curries swimming in ghee: only sophisticated interpretations of tandoorgrilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of cocktails with intriguing Indian twists.
GAGGAN 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 0 2652 1700 | eatatgaggan. com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11.30pm A must-visit in the ever-growing fine dining scene, voted number one in the 2015 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Try one of the tasting menus to experience the breadth of progressive, molecular dishes available.
INDUS 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 0 2258 4900 | indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect while dialling down the stodge and oiliness, a riff on Indian-Chinese — or Himalayan — combinations.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
THE GREAT KABAB FACTORY Majestic Grande Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 0 2262 2999 | thegreatkakabfactory.com/ Bangkok | 6pm-11pm Built around memorable service and menus that are entirely different in look and taste from the ubiquitous MiddleEastern kebabs. TGKF boasts an extensive inventory of more than 450 kinds of kebab.
INTERNATIONAL ABBOT Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2258 6250 | abbotbangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-1am, Sat 11am-1am, Sun 11am-10pm Staking its reputation on fresh, seasonal California cuisine, leaning heavily on bangkok101.com
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seafood dishes with zesty flavours, this airy eatery run by Bed Buzz delivers top-notch meals crafted by Chef Rene Micheleda.
BARSU Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 | barsubangkok.com | daily 10am-11pm A former “drink, dine, dance” destination turned into a modern gastro lounge with a playful menu and a philosophy of rustic “down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices.”
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 | eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
ELEMENTS Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
FAT’R GUTZ Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2185 2373 | facebook.com/ Fat.R.Gutz | 11am-2am Trendy as trendy can be, this second sister to the original Fat Gutz serves spot-on fish and chips with panache, but don’t expect to enjoy a romantic dinner: Seenspace gets packed by 8pm.
HARVEST 24 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2262 0762, 09 7235 8286 | facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK | 5.30pm-12am Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue in Phrom Pong relies heavily on Italian influences and high-quality seafood, JUNE 2015 | 85
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but the menu incorporates a touch of Spanish and French flair, as well.
HEMINGWAY’S Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 0 2653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11.30am-late (kitchen closes 10.45pm) Hemingway is ideal fodder to fill this 1920s-style golden teak house. A classy venue dispensing the author’s favourite spirits in generous pours and upper-end pub grub that stands up the author’s ballast.
HYDE & SEEK GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.
KAI Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok. com | Mon-Fri 9.30am-11.30pm, 8.30am11.30pm This handsome eatery makes an impressive go of answering the question: What does “Kiwi cuisine” actually mean? It’s an appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.
LADY BRETT 149 Soi Sueksawittaya, North Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 0405 | ladybrett.com | Tue-Sun 6pm1am; Sat-Sun 11am-3pm A New York-style tavern with a rustic menu, good beer and wine, and to-diefor weekend brunches and barbequed ribs.
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MAD MOA 211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd | 085 155 2601 | facebook.com/MadMoa | Tue and Sun 6pm-11pm A four-table shophouse serving hearty Polynesian and American food, like burgers, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and slow-cooked ribs, as well as fantastic locally brewed beer.
MAVERICK Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 |0 2665 2772 | maverickbkk.com | Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat- Sun 5pm-11pm Modern European, drawing heavily from French and Spanish traditions, especially in the gourmet tapas. There are molecular touches throughout that complement rather than compete with the body of the dish.
MINIBAR CAFÉ 5F Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2160 5610 | facebook.com/MinibarRoyale | 6.30pm-12am A modified version of the modern New York bistro whose pleasant ambiance is staked on good food, laughter, conversation, and music, because these elements help make meals memorable.
MONDO GF Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | 7am-11pm Styled after popular neighbourhood salumerias (delis) and formaggerias (cheese shops) found on street corners throughout Italy. The food here is bitesized and meant to be shared.
MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 | facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight
With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lo’s urban dining scene.
OPPOSITE MESS HALL Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2662 6330 | oppositebangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-Late One of the most talented chefs in the city serves rustic, memorable meals that won’t break the bank. Worth the buzz and then some.
PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 5pm1am (bar), 6pm-10pm The menu changes daily, according to available produce, and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items. Think oysters, Hokkaido scallops, and Aran Valley caviar. Has a lovely wine list.
QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 | quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late Serves straightforward food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on quality ingredients and letting it fly. The chef buys sustainable goods —
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listings local, when possible — and changes the menu frequently.
SEVEN SPOONS 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd | 0 2629 9214, 08 4539 1819 | sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com | Mon 11am-3pm, Tue-Sat 11am-12am, Sun 6pm-12am Hard to go wrong with any meal you choose at this Lan Luang favourite, where freshness and attention to detail are the expectation. Vegetarian-friendly without denying meat-lovers.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab — you name it.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2/F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
SALT Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 0 2619 6886 | saltbangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Salt is a hipster’s dream, a gastro bar with a post-modern finish. What makes it truly special is the cuisine, from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire.
22 KITCHEN & BAR 946 Thanon Rama IV | 0 2200 9000 | dusit. com | Bar 4pm-Midnight, Dinner 6pm-10pm Impeccable meals from the Pacific Rim, bridging Peruvian, West Coast American, bangkok101.com
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Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. Led by the exuberant, innovative Nikolas Ramirez, this restaurant is one not to miss.
ITALIAN APPIA 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2261 2056 | appiabangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-11pm Amazing Roman-style cuisine that, to the benefit of diners, is limited to a small menu. Extremely popular, and with good reason.
DIVINO Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 | 0 2714 8723 | divinobkk.com | 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm Enough variety to keep customers who just fancy a bottle of wine and platters to share happy, but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that concept-driven places can’t. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting.
ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 | enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Unabashed traditional Italian, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and a la carte and degustation menus to explore.
IL BOLOGNESE 139/3 Sathorn Tai Soi 7 | 0 2286 8805 | ilbolognesebangkok.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm It shouts “tradition” from floor to ceiling. Cold cuts and cheese, wooden wine racks and wood-fired pizza: original recipes meet high-quality ingredients here, and the results always satisfy.
JOJO The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com/bangkok | noon3pm, 6pm-11pm One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with ingredients imported from the region conjuring authentic flavours of the Veneto. Has a magnificent wine cellar, too.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 | labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the JUNE 2015 | 87
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menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
LENZI Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, Ruam Rudee Soi 2 | 0 2001 0116 | lenzibangkok.com | Lunch 11.45-2pm, Dinner 6pm-10.45pm Many ingredients sourced from the chef’s native Tuscany — including fresh white truffles, hams, and salami. It just doesn’t get much more Italian than this in Bangkok.
PEPPINA 27/1 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2119 7677 | peppinabkk.com | 11am-3pm, 6.30pm-12am Quite possibly the best pizza in the city, and at reasonable prices to boot — a welcome and much-lauded addition to the upper crust of the dining scene.
ROSSINI’S Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333 | sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The menu has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, promising “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists.
SOLE MIO
SHINTORI
Thong Lor Soi 21 | 0 2185 2199 | solemiobkk. com | 11.30am-11.30pm Laid back and casual, unlike other Italian places in the city, it has a large selection of excellent pizzas and some of the best pastas in town.
JAPANESE
Level 18, Zen World, Zen Department Stores | 0 2100 9000 | shintoribangkok.com | 5.30pm-late If you’re looking for a dinner that impresses on all fronts, it’s worth forking out for a meal here, as the combination of a thrilling setting and exciting food is still hard to find in this town.
TAIHEI
ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am The pioneer of Bangkok’s Nikkei cuisine, a Peruvian-Japanese fusion. Start with a pisco sour before checking out the menu, which also features Japanese dishes. Plates are served to share and portions are generous.
GENJI GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd | 0 2655 4265 | genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A Bangkok institution for more than 30 years, where presentation is crucial to the overall effect. Top-quality and wellexecuted Japanese cuisine.
KAGUYA The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2714 9974 | facebook.com/ kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm These guys take cocktails seriously. The food presents a more complex equation. The best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. Japanese ox tongue cooked sous vide? Yes, please.
53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights. Great for a date night on the town.
TEN-SUI 33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 08 8540 1001 | tensui. co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is high-end, with prices to match.
TORO SUSHI No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2712 8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned, there’s nothing fancy about this place —in a city where style often strong-arms substance, that’s part of its charm. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table instead of the sushi bar.
"Une ambiance accueillante et chaleureuse parfaite pour un dîner en amoureux" "A warm and intimate atmosphere perfect for dining out with your loved one" Hannah, UK
Cafe' Riviera Restaurant Sukhumvit Soi 23, BTS Asoke (exit 1) 1st street on the right in soi 23 For reservation 02 259 30 33 mnice06mike@gmail.com
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listings YTSB 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar,” which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about yellowtail, either — there’s real variety on the menu.
ZIPANGU 28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 0 2651 2180 | facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am With its creative sushi rolls and traditional Japanese fare, along with more than 20 different kinds of sake, Zipangu is one of the city’s best options for izakaya-style dining.
ZUMA Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2252 4707 | zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm This izakaya-style joint delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually.
MIDDLE EASTERN ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), it includes some they probably won’t.
BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.
SHAHRAZAD 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1| 0 2251 3666 | 9am-3am The grand old dame of Middle Eastern dining, where the baba ghanoush is just as excellent as the grilled lamb leg. The cuisine spans the Middle East, with a nod to Iranian. Authentic and recommended.
MEXICAN EL OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 0 2650 9581 | elositobkk.com | Mon-Sat 11am-11.30pm bangkok101.com
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New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean& DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cumrestaurant at night.
EL DIABLO’S BURRITOS 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2259 4140 | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-11pm The enormous burritos are the stars of the show. They make their own tortillas on the premises, too. The tacos are particularly impressive. The salsa and toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice.
MÉJICO 2nd floor, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 | mejico.asia | 11am-12am The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk | 5pm-1am Nowhere else in town are there dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown elsewhere. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.
TACOS Y SALSA 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 08 6346 0822, 08 6346 0822 | tacosnsalsa.com | daily 3pm-12am A brightly-coloured haunt, decorated with the owner’s own artwork, serving up authentic Mexican food and tasty margaritas. A great spot to satisfy any Mexican cravings.
The secret ..... ....... is in the Sauce
SEAFOOD RAW BAR 440/9 Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2713 8335 | facebook. com/TheRawBarBKK | Mon-Fri 5.30pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-12am Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends.
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 2071-5, 0 2661 1252-9, 0 2259 6580-1 | seafood.co.th | 11.30am-11.30pm
Open Daily 11am-11pm
www.edp-bangkok.com
SIAM SQUARE SOI 1 02-658-4455
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Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also tons of local and imported seafood for sale.
SNAPPER 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2651 1098 | snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Don’t expect a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients, but rather simple preparation rounded out with elegant presentation. One of the best fish and chips in Bangkok resides at this New Zealand-run establishment.
THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. Big appetites should try the seafood platter: a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and more.
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok | Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, it’s a tapas bar distinguished by small dishes, high-quality alcohol, and a space filled with antiques: an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive. But, more importantly, it’s the local watering hole.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
STEAK & BURGER BURGER FACTORY 3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 0 2714 4249 | facebook. com/theburgerfactory | Sun-Thu 11.30am11pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-midnight Serves some of the most consistently good hamburgers in the city, and they come with a healthy range of haute toppings. Wash your choice down with a vanilla milkshake and seal the deal with some curly fries.
EL GAUCHO 8/1-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 0 2255 2864 | elgaucho.asia | Noon-midnight Meat lovers will enjoy the authentic taste of Argentinian steak in all its flame-kissed goodness, the meals best rounded out with a hearty South American red wine.
HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 0 2656 9440 | arabesquebkk.com | 11am-2am Hamilton’s provides an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch. Though steak is its bread and butter, this place puts together a surprisingly interesting seafood selection, as well.
NEW YORK STYLE STEAK & BURGER 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2262 0920 | nysteakandburger.com | 11am-11pm It’s all about freshness. The burgers are ground each morning. Vegetables are sourced from the Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Crunchy buns are ordered from Maison Jean Philippe.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city, now abetted by high-quality seafood. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya.
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 | theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder, before moving on to the main attraction: flamebroiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
THAI BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com | Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm A glittering array of Thai favourites — it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit soi 24 (Kasame), Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 THAILAND Tel. 02 661 1252-9, 02 259 6580-1 Fax. 02 261 2073 Email. globalmarketing@seafood.co.th
www.seafood.co.th
RESERVATION Tel. 02 261 2071-5 90 | JUNE 2015
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listings BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 | blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.
KRUA APSORN Dinso Rd | 02 685 4531| kruaapsorn.com | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm Quintessential Thai food served in a lowkey shophouse in the old town. There’s a reason this place is so beloved by locals.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SIAM WISDOM
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM
66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 | siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 | jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place.
Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2714 7708 | soulfoodmahanakorn.com | 6pm-Midnight Run by an American food writer turned chef, this tiny Thong Lo establishment serves some of the most authentic Thai food in the city and is a sure bet for a great meal.
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SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN
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TALING PLING 25 Sukhumvit Soi 34 | 0 2258 5308 | talingpling.com | 11am-10pm Taling Pling has a handful of branches in town, all slightly different in theme. At this outlet, you might feel as though you’ve walked into the Mad Hatter’s Tea party, and the menu varies from curries to neighbourhood nosh.
THE OWL 194/16-17 Ladprao Rd | 09 6016 2499 | theowlbkk.com | 5pm-12pm A three-story bar-bistro offering Lad Phrao a refined spin on the local cantina. There’s delicious Thai food to be shared, well-crafted cocktails, and a warm ambiance that lends itself to conversation.
VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am-10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 | xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
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NIGHTLIFE REGAL ROXY JUNE
Roxy June, known in Thailand as the Princess of House Music who wears headphones like a crown, pays a visit to Grease on June 2. One of the most on-demand Asian female DJs got her start on the club circuit in Bangkok. Since then, she’s travelled the world, hitting major festivals and world-class clubs, spinning progressive house all the while. Pre-sale tickets cost B1000. Tickets will also be available at the door for B1200. The party starts at 10pm with DJ Sabrina on the decks. Roxy June comes on at 12.30am. For more information, please call 08 8284 5563.
STREETWEAR AND STREET BEATS
Event organizers TopSecret and Assemble join hands for a collaborative party on June 18 at Safe House in Ekamai. The TopSecret crew will team up with Phunknomenon (Rockafella) and Safe House resident DJ Sunzone, spinning high-energy EDM all night long. The dress code calls for streetwear, so break out your torn denim, ripped tank tops, and New York Yankees flat bills. The party kicks off at 9pm. For more information, please visit facebook.com/ ThailandTS.
A GUIDED TOUR OF ITALIAN WINE
Wine is more than just a beverage. It’s a culture, a lifestyle that represents the charm of its terroir. On June 24, go on a wine-tasting journey through Italy. Texica, P Square, and Estella, three importers that only source wines from Italy, will offer more than 40 great wines and share their knowledge of the Italian art of living. The “Italian Wine Journey” will be held at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Ballroom from 7pm-9.30pm. The entrance fee is B1000 per person. For reservations, please contact Maneerat (Mod) at mod@texica.co.th or call 09 5479 6592.
SO POOL, SO COOL
Sofitel So returns with another episode of everyone’s favourite monthly pool party, So Pool, held at The Water Club on the 10th floor the chic hotel on June 27. The party takes place in two zones — the pool-side area, where DJs spin house music, and the relax area, where hip-hop beats set the mood. Food is available in either zone. Entry is B400 and includes one drink. The party starts at 1pm and runs until 9pm. For more information, please call 0 2624 0000.
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NIKKI BEACH KOH SAMUI - All-inclusive: Parties, Pools, and Posh Digs -
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eparated by border, united by belief, every outlet in the Nikki Beach empire has been built on a well-laid foundation for recreational excellence — swank spaces, succulent food, show-stopping socialites. From Marrakech to Miami, Nikki Beach clubs feature the same aesthetic panache, the same plush features, and the same trademark tepees rising from their grounds like white Christmas trees. Each new project, however, ups the ante. Burrowed into Lipa Noi, Nikki Beach Koh Samui is a portmanteau of its ground-breaking sister venues — one of which was once dubbed the “sexiest place on Earth” — and a five-star island resort. The club provides all-day entertainment by the sands, like all other iterations of Nikki Beach, but when the day runs short and the night grows long, guests don’t have to leave. All the finest resort fixtures are already in place. Adjacent to the beach club sits a boomerang-shaped pool. On either side of it are a range of posh suites and villas. Some are more extravagant than others — the two-bedroom beachfront villas include butler service upon request, for example — but none want for the so-called “wow” factor. Each type of accommodation comes with private balconies decorated with couches and chaise lounges, slate-tiled floors, hard wood fixtures, branded bath products, and, crucially, more than enough space to
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satisfy a cloistered city-dweller. The suites on the southern edge of the property veil a narrow, 75-metre-long pool that, from one point of view, seems to stretch into the sea. The all-inclusive concept marks another step forward in the transformation of the Koh Samui party scene. Guests form a constantly changing community. They blend dayand night-time entertainment, moving from the solitude of the suite-surrounded pool to the DJ booth at the beachfront club as the day progresses. During the day, sailor-clad hosts and hostesses dance around, spritzing water to the beat of house music. Often times at night, there are fireworks, themed parties, or live concerts. Still, with rooms a walk away, and just enough separation to engender solitude, guests aren’t pigeonholed into wild nights. With in-room catering, an onsite bakery and café, and classic resort-specific amenities — like wedding packages, bicycle and kayak rentals, massage service, and a fitness centre — Nikki Beach Koh Samui balances the scales between club to hotel, never leaning too far in either direction. It has its feet set firmly in both specialties.
NIKKI BEACH KOH SAMUI 96/3 Moo 2, Lipa Noi, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 0 7791 4500 | nikkibeachsamui.com
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Fresh Bakery - Dinner - Deli
Interpretive Italian Cuisine Served All Day
Fresh Bakery - Dinner - Deli
Interpretive Italian Cuisine Served All Day
OPEN NOW OPEN Italics All Day NOW Dining
Italics All Day Dining “We’ve scoured the length and breadth of Thailand to find the best suppliers for what “We’ve scoured the length and breadth of we serve in our restaurant and what’s on Thailand to find the best suppliers for what sale in the deli.” we serve in our restaurant and what’s on sale in the deli.”
Come in, mention Bangkok 101, & receive a 10% discount off your bill. Come in, mention Bangkok 101, & receive a 10% discount off your bill.
OPEN EVERY DAY 08:00 AM - 11:00 PM 02 253 2410 | 63/3 Soi Ruamruedee, Pathumwan, Bangkok, Thailand OPEN EVERY DAY 08:00 AM - 11:00 PM www.italicsrestaurant.com 02 253 2410 | 63/3 Soi Ruamruedee, Pathumwan, Bangkok, Thailand www.italicsrestaurant.com
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review
24 OWLS - Delicious Drinks and Dining, Day or Night -
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riginally a straight-up café in its early days, 24 Owls by Sometimes on Ekamai Soi 12 has undergone something of a transformation over the last couple of years to become a bijou 24-hour bistro and bar. The interior s casual-chic décor comprises an eclectic mix of comfortable velvet covered sofas and leather armchairs, pieces of modern furniture, and faux vintage dining tables and chairs. Not surprisingly, owl figurines and motifs abound. “We never sleep” is the outlet’s motto and it is a great spot for drinks and dining at any time of the day. While the underlying ambience at 24 Owls is one of sophisticated relaxation, the mood subtly changes as the day progresses – from the soft chatter of families sharing a leisurely breakfast, to the important hustle and bustle of the lunch crowd, to the laid back groove of the midevening patrons who come to dine and listen to live music on Wednesdays through Sundays, to the more boisterous Ekamai-Thong Lor party people enjoying a late-night post-club supper. The outdoor garden deck at the rear of the restaurant is also a popular area in which to enjoy a drink in the cool of the evening. It gets particularly busy at weekends when folk congregate to watch live sporting events on a big screen TV. Cocktails are a must at 24 Owls. They range from a short list of house cocktails (all B285) to the slightly
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longer Classic Owl list (all B280). The drinks are mixed by experienced Danish barman Anders Olsen, and colleague Naphat Natchachon, a finalist at the Thai instalment of the Diageo World Class cocktail competition earlier this year. Particularly good as an aperitif is their Negroni (B280), a heady mix of gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari. Also excellent is the delightfully uncomplicated Margarita (B280), combining tequila, triple sec and lime juice. Toothsome cocktails aside, the bar at 24 Owls stocks a good assortment of Irish, Scottish, Canadian, and American whiskey (or whisky), most around the B200-B250 per glass mark; various popular brands of gin, rum, vodka, and tequila at B180-B250 per glass; and a decent selection of single malt whiskeys (B240-B450 per glass), including offerings from senior distillers such as Talisker and Glenmorangie. There is also a very good collection of new- and old world wines available from an extensive wine list. If you enjoy a cool thirst-quenching glass of beer, among the ubiquitous local suds on offer are bottled craft beers from Hitachio (B220) made with traditional Japanese brewing techniques, and lager and pale ale from Czech microbrewery Two Tales (also B220). Popular as it is for drinks, 24 Owls also serves up a diverse menu of Thai and international cuisine – excellent fried rice and noodle dishes, pizzas, pasta, seafood and bangkok101.com
review
steaks, burgers, and soups and salads. In addition to the all-day breakfast options, favourites include sharing plates such as the grilled sausage platter (B420), the medley bruschetta (B220) topped with sautĂŠed mushrooms, garlic butter, and clam and tomato salsa; a cheese platter (B490) offering a choice of French and Spanish cheeses served with crackers and fresh and dried fruit; and a cold cuts platter (also B490) comprising slices of Parma ham, chorizo, salami and mortadella. A standout appetizer is
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the zesty tuna tartar (B270) layered with cream cheese, avocado, tomato salsa, and pesto sauce. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com open 24 hours (Limited parking with valet parking service available).
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BARS BADMOTEL 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 0 2712 7288 | 5pm1am | facebook.com/badmotel | 5pm-1am A three-floor joint minimally decorated and painted bright white, the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s “Creation Cocktails.”
and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
COYOTE’S Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 3313 | coyotebangkok.com | daily 12pm-2am Olé! A long-standing Mexican restaurant/ bar, where the margaritas flow like water, especially during ladies’ night, and the meals always satisfy.
BAR 23
HYDE & SEEK
Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.
BARLEY BISTRO 4/F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 | barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BEERVAULT Sukhumvit Soi 15, in the FourPoints by Sheraton | 0 2309 3255 | beervaultbangkok. com | 3pm-12am A comfy ground-floor bar that’s a solid choice for local and European beers on draft, but better for bottles, of which there are 97 varieties.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 | brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 | cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pmmidnight A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 | craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, 98 | JUNE 2015
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 | 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11ammidnight This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars. com | 2pm-2am Whisky and cigars are the focal point of this rapidly expanding branch. The latest opening on the ground floor of the Holiday Inn raises the bar that the flagship set. On top of the dozens of high-end single malts and hand-rolled cigars waiting to be enjoyed, this amber-lit, Prohibition Era throwback also features a private, smoke-free lounge and a tooth-rattling ice bar where premium vodka is served in style.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok | Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails.
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 | fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A dead ringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Ian Kittichai heads the kitchen, and the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow.
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY Near Soi Thonglor A secret bar built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his whims.
In Thong Lo, somewhere on an oddnumbered single-digit soi. Open every evening, if you can find it.
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 08 9889 8059 | facebook.com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm-12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 | mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good — and hard-to-find — craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST Silom Soi 7 | 0 2636 6622 | namsaah.com | 5pm-2am bangkok101.com
listings Set in a mansion that was once a soda bottling company’s office, the perfect place to enjoy intimate conversation with friends over cocktails.
OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 | facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hotspot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 | facebook.com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide
selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 | swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and pour-your-own craft beer on draft draws flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 | thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar, as there are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
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U.N.C.L.E. Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 0406 | avunculus.com | Tue-Sat 6pm-1am One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, where you can get cocktails made to your specifications.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
WONG’S PLACE 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Rama IV Rd | 08 1901 0235 The very definition of a dive. If you’ve ended up here, you’ve either had a tremendous night or one that you hope not to remember in the morning.
WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 | wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like
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listings
wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.
BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
Nok Young, Maharat Rd | 0 2221 9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun.
CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 | cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night.
DISTIL 64/F State Tower, Silom Rd | 0 2624 9999 | lebua.com/distil | daily 5pm-1am Sizzling high in the sky, this posh spot boasts incredible views of the cityscape and luxurious whiskies and cocktails with price tags to match them.
LEAPFROG
THREESIXTY Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor, where they can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sets the mood.
AMBAR Sukhumvit Soi 15, FourPoints by Sheraton | 0 2309 3288 | ambarbangkok.com | 4pm-2am Set eight stories up, this rooftop bar provides a more relaxed atmosphere than most in the category, thanks to cosy couches and beds where locals and travellers mingle over cocktails and tunes at sunset.
AMOROSA 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo 100 | JUNE 2015
Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 | leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When the golden feature bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
LONG TABLE 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 0 2302 2557 | longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Known for its communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. Twenty-five floors up, you can glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of highflying Bangkok.
MOON BAR 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
NEST 9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2305 4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm-2am
An urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of Le Fenix Hotel, laid-back on weekdays and early evenings, but rowdy on weekends, especially during special parties.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
PHRANAKORN BAR Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd | 0 2622 0282 | facebook.com/ Phranakornbarandgallery | 6pm-1am An old favourite of local art students and creative types, mostly for its indie/80s/90s playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views of the floodlit Golden Mount temple.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come — when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
ST. REGIS BAR St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am The rectangular venue eyes the Royal Bangkok Sports Club through a large plate-glass window, a lovely spot at sunset, even better on Sunday afternoons, when you can spy on horse races with a fine malt whiskey in hand.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era bangkok101.com
listings America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
WALK 567 Rachaprarop Rd | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb | 5pm-1am Named to reflect high-fashion ambitions, it’s sleek enough to resemble a runway. Sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd. When it comes to the cocktails, prepare your tongues for the heat.
WOO BAR W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road | 0 2344 4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok | Sun-Wed 9am1am, Thu-Sat 9am-2am This hitel bar is chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 | facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
KU DÉ TA 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net | 6pm-late One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. A snazzy LED “chandelier” hangs over the dance floor, twinkling in time with the music.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok | 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 | onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am bangkok101.com
An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
QUP 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2252 3274 | qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot (née Q Bar) well-known for pouring stiff drinks — there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka — and regular big-name international DJs. One of Bangkok’s most consistent clubs.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com | 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.
SPASSO Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-2.30am A favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it’s a sedate Italian restaurant. After hours, it transforms into a club and cocktail bar and really hits its stride. That’s when the tables get pushed away and everyone in the room dances until dark turns to light.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 | theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am In the middle of the backpacker ghetto, this techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, wild, and chart-topping, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and craniumrattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am
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Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
PUBS BULLY’S Sukhumvit Rd, between soi 2 and 4 | 0 2656 4609 | facebook.com/bullysbkk | daily until late Big burgers and beer are the name of the game at this American-style pub. Spacious and stocked with pool tables and TVs.
FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique| 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Road | 0 2629 1988 | gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).
HANRAHAN’S 12/1 Sukhumvit 4 | 0 2255 0644 | hanrahansbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Over a decade old and still going strong, this three-floor Irish pub with a rooftop terrace adds a touch of sophistication to Sukhumvit Soi 4
MOLLY MALONE’S 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom | 0 2266 7160-1 | mollymalonesbangkok.com | 9am-1am Dark wood, dark lighting, bright atmosphere. This long-standing Irish favourite features one of the best Sunday roasts in town, not to mention long happy hours and live entertainment.
THE AUSTRALIAN 37 Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 0800 | theaustralianbkk.com | 9am-late A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners, bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. Set in the middle of soi 11, it’s as fine a place as any to watch the clubbers wander by like clouds in the sky. JUNE 2015 | 101
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THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 | blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub | 11.30am-2am English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast.
THE PENALTY SPOT Sukhumvit Soi 29 | 0 2661 6164 | facebook. com/thepenaltyspot | 3pm-2am Cosy, atmospheric, the crowds forming mostly to watch live sports on TV and drink beer on draft.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel | 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd | 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman | 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 | robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
THE ROYAL OAK 595/10 Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 1652 | royaloakthailand.com | 10am-1am 102 | JUNE 2015
An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes, among other forms of entertainment.
THE QUEEN VIC Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 7417 | queenvicbkk. com | 9am-1am An indoor-outdoor arrangement up the road from the pit that is Soi Cowboy, with a semi-circular bar serving standard cocktails, various draft beers, and substantial Western fare.
THE SPORTSMAN Sukhumvit Soi 13 (The Trendy Condo) | 0 2168 7242 | sportsbarbangkok.com | 8am-2am With 26 high-definition TVs and eight projectors, this is the place to go for live sporting events. Of course, there’s beer
LIVE MUSIC APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 | apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
BAMBOO BAR The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 0 2659 9000 | mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Rd | 08 9499 1378 | brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.
CAFÉ TRIO G Floor, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan | 0 2252 6929 | 6pm-1am, closed the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its
jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
CM2 LIVE JAM Ground Floor, Novotel Siam Square Soi 6 | 0 2209 8888 | novotelbkk.com/cm2-live-jam | Thu-Sat 7pm-12am A subterranean party cave that packs them in, especially on weekends, when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it.
FAT GUT’Z 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.
PARKING TOYS 14 Prasert-Manukitch Rd, Lat Phrao | 0 2907 2228 | parkingtoys.in.th | 7pm-2am A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. Far out of town, but worth the trip.
SAXOPHONE 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd | 0 2246 5472 | saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am A must-visit live music joint near Victory Monument, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every night of the week.
SOULBAR 945 Charoenkrung Rd | 08 3092 2266 | facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok | Mon-Fri 6pm-1am Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown. bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
Discover the Secret Oasis that is Ruen Urai Experience fine Thai culinary art in the elegant surroundings of a historic 100-year-old golden teakwood mansion. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11pm. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
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bangkok101.com
KLOSET’S ‘HOLIDAY HEARTBREAKER’ By Gaby Doman
T
here are some truths we must face as fashionistas; like the fact Prada shoes are always ugly (seriously, why is that?) and that super kitsch accessories always seem to sell out before they hit the stores (so unfair). Also among these truths is the fact that the ‘summer of love’ will never, ever stop inspiring designers, year in, year out. This season, Kloset’s ‘Holiday Heartbreaker’ Spring-Summer collection has been heavily inspired by the seventies, with plenty of fringing, headbands, bell sleeves, and whimsy. Oh man, do designers love a little spring-summer whimsy. But that’s not to say this collection is a copycat of everything you’ve ever seen every summer since you were born. No, there’s a little more to it than that. In fact, Kloset pinpoints Kenya as its inspiration, with bold floral prints, beautiful, intricate embroidery and fluid, lightweight cottons and feathers. But, whether it’s Kenyan or seventies boho the collection conjures up, it’s certainly a bricolage of influences, textures and styles. While the themes look familiar, we’re not bored – there’s a definite charm to the collection. The fabrics lend themselves to a Bangkok summer; lightweight and easy-to-move in while the graphic prints and pretty embroidery add drama. The prints may seem less inspired by Kenya and more by your grandmother’s kitchen curtains but, regardless, they’re feminine and pretty. This collection won’t change your life or take fashion in a new direction but, let’s be honest, all we really want is something pretty to wear. Highlights include a khaki mini dress with fabulous feathered sleeves which, by the way, we’re going to wear to Every. Single. Festival this year, a blush pink dress with a flowing feathered middle (so much whimsy we can barely take it) and an update on the flapper dress; a baby blue heavily feathered number that was made for dancing in. Available at onlineshop@klosetdesign.com and at Kloset outlets at: Siam Center, 3rd floor, 0 2658 1729 Siam Paragon, 1st floor, 0 2610 7907 Central Chidlom, 2nd floor, 0 2251 2456 Central Ladprao, 2nd floor, 0 2937 1399
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SHOPPING
listings
Duly
DULY 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2672 2891 | 10am7pm daily | laladuly.co.th Duly recently opened a new boutique at the 2nd floor, Royal Wing of the Siam Kempinski Hotel behind Siam Square. The original stand-alone shop on Sukhumvit Road was also renovated in 2011 to reflect Duly’s pre-eminent position as Bangkok’s leading shirt maker. The real draw here is the made-to-measure service that allows customers to create their own perfect shirt with no limits. Shirt patterns can be contoured to fit, collars picked from 22 different style and cuffs from 10. The store stocks over 30 types of button and also offers a monogramming service.
FASHION GALLERIA Suite 108 River City Shopping Complex, Yotha Rd | 0 2639 1401 | info@fashiongalleria.biz Since 1999, Fashion Galleria has provided its diverse customers with the finest hand-crafted clothing. But it isn’t just sartorial taste that has turned the shop into a familiar and favourite face in River City, the easy-going shopping complex beside the Si Phaya Pier. Fashion Galleria sources its medium to high-end fabrics from esteemed international brands, many in Italy, like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Reda, and Marzoni. Clients are fitted twice after selecting their preferred fabric. If in a rush, the first measurements can be finished in two or three hours.
JULY TAILOR 30/6 Saladang Rd | 0 2233 0171 | Mon-Sat 9.30pm-6pm | julytailor.com/en Established by Nui Sae Lui in 1939, today July Tailor is run by his third son, Sompop Louilarpprasert. July Tailor is famous for the tailoring of suits and royal patterns with fine and delicate 106 | JUNE 2015
Lucky Angel workmanship. It also prides itself on punctual delivery. This is perhaps why it was selected as a tailor to the Thai royal family. The store also enjoys a fine reputation among high-level local and international government officials, politicians and businessmen. Use of fine cloths, lining materials and accessories imported from Italy ensures comfort while hand stitching ensures excellent workmanship and fit and the unique bespoke look.
LUCKY ANGEL 26-26/4 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2650 7577 | MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-8pm Boyce, the principal at Lucky Angel, does a fine job of explaining fabrics, cuts, timetable and prices to customers. He and his wife go out of their way to help clients select the best materials for their needs. An 18-year veteran of the business, he takes around 30 measurements when sizing you up for a suit and will constantly ask questions regarding your preferences as he goes about his work. Only opened 3 years ago, the shop already has a loyal clientele and prides itself on its repeat business and comprehensive after-sales service.
NARIN COUTURE 180 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2251 9237 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm (last fitting at 8pm) | narincouture.com B. Narin of Narin Couture graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and spent five years working in Paris before returning home to open his own boutique tailoring service. His background is undoubtedly one of the reasons his suits receive high marks for style. He and his master cutters, many of whom have over 30 years of experience, turn out elegant evening gowns and immaculate suits in top quality fabrics. Some of Narin’s creations
Narin Couture have even made it onto the silver screen, being worn by movie stars in Hollywood blockbusters.
PERRY’S 2/1 Silom Rd | 0 2233 9236, 0 2267 0622 Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm | perry.tailor@gmail.com Legendary tailor Perry’s has been going strong for four decades. It is run by genial septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai, both of whom are known for their ability to measure and cut ‘by the eye’. They maintain superb quality through their own workshop, where 30 plus artisans use only imported fabrics – the likes of Ermenegildo Zenga, Loro Piana, Dormeuil and Lanificio from Switzerland, Italy and England. Among their more illustrious clients they count the Duke of Edinburgh, former UN Secretary General Boutros Boutros-Ghali and late Hollywood star Robin Williams. It takes from one to two weeks for Perry’s to make a two-piece suit, which will run to B20000 or more depending on the material selected.
PINKY Mahatun Plaza Arcade | 888/40 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2253 6328 | Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm (Sunday’s by appointment) | pinkytailor.com Established since 1980, at Pinky you will find 3 floors of high-quality fabrics. The shop caters to ladies and gents and offers exceptional tailoring for quality
Perry’s bangkok101.com
listings
Pinky trousers, suits, tuxedos, uniforms, overcoats, skirts and dresses. A specialty here though is shirts, and as the business points out on its website, shirts are a staple part of any person’s wardrobe. From formal dress shirts and business wear through to high fashion and casual, the shirt is the ideal way to express personality, no matter what the occasion. Popular with visiting dignitaries and local diplomats, Pinky also has a loyal repeat clientele.
RAJAWONGSE 130 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2255 3714 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm | dress-for-success.com At Rajawongse, a favourite of visiting
Rajawongse statesman and ambassadors, it is possible to create your own design from a wide array of fabrics and accessories. Traditional to contemporary, dramatic to exotic, classic to original, you pick your preferred style of garment and fabrics and tailors Jesse and Victor will create it. Says Jesse, “It is our belief that every single customer should be treated like a V.I.P. From formal wear to business suits and sport coats, our motto always holds true: dress like a winner and you’ll be treated like one.”
TAILOR ON TEN 93 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 8 | 084 877 1543 | tailoronten.com
SHOPPING
Tailor on Ten Established by brothers Ben and Alex Cole, Tailor on Ten is located in a quaint townhouse on Sukhumvit Soi 8. The business has a strong reputation for quality. Suit fabrics are sourced from renowned clothiers such as Vitale Barberis Canonico, Trabaldo Togna, Holland & Sherry (of Savile Row), and Dormeuil. All shirts are 100 percent cotton, the shop favourite coming from Thomas Mason, a British-heritage brand made in Italy. A range of Irish and Japanese linen is also available for suits and shirts. Recently, the shop launched an accessories line, with custom belts, Italian ties and pocket squares, to name a few.
SHOPPING
unique boutique
Boogie and the Beach - Bikinis for the Boho Beach Life -
K
oh Phangan, known for its raucous Full Moon Party and lively locals, has long been a dream destination for tourists. A couple of years ago, a young designer named Ekaterina Balkarska found herself caught up in the pull of this magnetic little speck in the Gulf of Thailand. Inspired by the love and passion that surrounded her, she started crafting a small collection of swimwear for boho beach girls — beach girls, like her, who were just as at home working out as they were working on their suntans. Boogie and the Beach was born out of a need for swimwear that was unique in style yet also functional. Balkarska sought to create a bikini that active women could wear from day to night. Whether while doing yoga underneath palm trees at dawn, catching some midday sun on the sand, or out dancing in the dark, the bikinis were made to be a multi-purpose fashion staple, an item that could take on many roles and always draw “wows” from the crowd. Currently, the brand offers two types of bikini. The first design, called “Thanu,” features an unconventional take on the typically conservative halter top. A mesh cover connects the cups and the back features a sport-style band. It works
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as well for physically active types with a sense of adventure — think: paddle-boarding and yoga — as it does for those with daring fashion styles, who might wear the top under denim jackets as they strut around Bangkok. The “Leela” is an exotic second addition to Boogie and the Beach’s store. Three thin straps cross on the upper back, forming a sleek and certain X. The front of the triangle top reveals a little skin, but still provides a snug, angular fit. It’s ideal swimwear for beach-lovers who look for comfort, above all, but also want to express their daring sides. Both pair perfectly with a slim-fit, low-set hipster bottom that blurs the boundary of modest and risqué. Balkarska is currently working on a third design, which, she says, will be her statement on swimwear for the modern woman, drawing on inspiration from a life spent in bikinis at the seaside across the world. Though small, the Boogie and the Beach brand is growing, thanks to the vibrant and passionate leadership of Balkarska. Her Thanu and Leela designs are available online at boogieandthebeach.com or facebook.com/ Boogieandthebeach. Islanders can pick them up at Nap – Po in Haad Rin on Koh Phangan. For more information, call 08 0544 1664. bangkok101.com
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WELLN ESS
treatment
Kempinski The Spa - Soak Up the Spirit of the Season BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
S
ome like it hot. But some don’t. At Kempinski The Spa, masseuses understand that not all therapyseekers have the same tastes. Your personal preference is taken into account, turning a by now standard experience into a bespoke journey based on your disposition. The “Journey through the Seasons” (180 min/ B6500++) treatment begins with a body assessment. Once your elemental inclination has been decided — Autumn, Winter, Spring, or Summer — the masseuse sets forth with the proper package for you. If you’re given the “Spring” denomination, you may have a hard time adjusting to seasonal changes — Spring, of course, brings fresh buds and leaves that are sensitive to wind, light, and temperature. With a rich facial and body treatment, the Spring package seeks to refresh and detoxify, wiping out that sluggish Winter energy to prepare you for impending warmth and sunlight. If you’re a “Summer” type, that means your metabolism and hormones work overtime. Your body radiates heat and energy, so you’re in need of cooling off. The facial and massage help cool you down while the body scrub and wrap cleans and rehydrates your skin with all-natural, active ingredients.
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“Autumn” folks embody a slower pace to life, looking to store energy for the long season that awaits. This type of person tends to have breathing problems and is susceptible to fatigue, so the treatment helps to feed and rehydrate skin cells using a combination of therapies: body massage, scrub, and wrap. The Autumn Release massage helps you let go of stress, while the Autumn Sleep massage caters to your inner gears, fine-tuning your ability to get some much-needed sleep. Those with dry skin or throats, and those who have a hard time waking up in the morning, are classified as “Winter” people. An exclusively designed treatment nourishes dry skin with massages that stimulate the internal systems, warming your body from within and loosening tight joints at the same time. So what season are you? Best to leave that answer to the experts at Kempinski The Spa. Whatever the elements say, your journey to relaxation begins here.
KEMPINSKI THE SPA Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2162 9000 kempinski.com | 10am-10pm
bangkok101.com
treatment ANANTARA SPA
a Devarana body scrub and massage and ends with a restorative soak in a bath infused with fresh pink lotus and champaca petals. Alternatively, if you’re pushed for time, try the Halo-Halo body wrap and facial scrub (B2100++/1 hr).
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 ext. 1563 | spa.anantara.com | 10am-10pm | $$$$
An extensive list of treatment packages await, with options covering health and beauty therapies or a combination of both. The various massages focus on restoring physical balance and harmony by easing knotted muscles and stimulating blood flow along the meridian lines. Also known as acupressure corridors, the meridians are pathways through which energy flows around the body. Prior to core massage, many of the treatments – which use imported premium blend Elemis spa products – begin with a soothing foot scrub and milk bath. Particularly recommended is the exceptional Anantara Signature Massage (90 min/B3900). It combines bodywork using a special formula hot oil for deep muscle relaxation and meridian flow with stomach-focused detox massage designed to boost digestion and clear toxins from your system. Other blissful packages worth considering include Journey of Siam (190 min/B5500), Stress Release Massage (90 min/B3500), and River Stone Back Massage (60 min/B4000). Poolside and in-room spa treatments are also available.
CENVAREE SPA Centara Grand at CentralWorld 25F Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2769 1234 | spacenvaree.com | $$$$
For anyone who has had the pleasure of visiting a high-end spa in Thailand, Cenvaree’s interior will be familiar enough, furnished in dark teak wood and perfumed with hints of jasmine and sandalwood. The selection here is vast. Try the evocatively named Salt Pot Muscles Melter (B2800 for 90 mins), designed to flush all traces of tension from a tired frame. The Thai Harmony Four Hands Massage (B3000 for 90 mins) involves two expert Thai therapists working in unison to deliver a feeling of intense relaxation. Another alternative is the Shirobhyanga, or Indian Head Massage (B1200 for 60 mins). Often during treatments, after the back and legs and have been kneaded into putty, it’s the light finish on the neck and scalp that is most effective. Here, you have the opportunity to extend that for an entire hour. bangkok101.com
WELLN ESS
THANN SANTUARY SPA BREEZE SPA 8F Amari Watergate Bangkok | 847 Petchburi Rd | 0 2653 9000 ext. 394 | breeze-spa.com | 10am-10pm | $$$$ Grey mosaic tiles beautifully match bluish furniture, as well as splashes of white and green in the décor. The colour tones turn this open space into a peaceful poolside haven, warming up your spirit before you settle in to a signature treatment. The recently launched Bangkok Retreat Package (B3800/120 min), exclusive to Amari Watergate, is designed to beat fatigue and balance the body and mind. It targets travellers looking kick off or cap a memorable trip to Thailand. That said, the magic works just as well on weary locals and expats. Perhaps even more fun than being treated is choosing how you would like to unwind. Breeze offers a handful of signature mood therapy massages (B2100/60 min, B2800/90 min). All you have to do is pick a sensation that matches the mood you desire: dreamy, serene, rejuvenated, invigorated, or energised. The rest falls the capable hands of the therapist, injecting your day with your preferred feeling.
DEVARANA SPA Dusit Thani Bangkok 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2636 3596 | devaranaspa.com | $$$
Devarana offers a variety of pampering treatments using a combination of East meets West aromatherapy and massage. Delicate massage oils are organically developed and blended using high quality natural ingredients to enhance relaxation and feelings of well-being. The Devarana Signature Massage (B3200++/1 hr 30 mins; B3900++/2 hrs) is a unique therapy that focuses on muscle relief and balancing the body’s energy pathways through a combination of Ayurvedic, Shiatsu and Swedish massage. The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience (B5000++/2 hrs 30 mins) is also highly recommended. It features
6F Emporium | BTS Promphong | 0 2664 9924 | thann.info | $$$$
Innovative and all-natural, when administered by the capable hands of the spa’s therapists, all of whom have graduated from THANN Sanctuary Spa’s on-site academy, they help to generate a feeling of deep relaxation and wellbeing. The spa itself offers an extensive range of treatments based on the rejuvenation properties of tried and tested traditional therapies. Not least of these is hot stone massage, which has been used for thousands of years to relieve tension and heal damaged tissues. At THANN Sanctuary Spa the Healing Stone Body Massage (100 min/B3500) is a naturopathy that combines Swedish massage and the application of heated smooth black and white rocks. Also available are treatments such as Nano Shiso Therapy (130 min/B3800), THANN Aromatherapy Massage (60 min/B2000, 90 min/B2800) and a newly added Thai Aromatic Massage (120 min/B2500). Whichever you choose, a personal world of bliss and relaxation awaits.
THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER 88/1 24th Avenue Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2261 7943 | thetastatefloat.com | $$$
‘Samadhi tanks’ enjoyed a brief heyday in the 1970s following the publication of Dr John Lilly’s hallucinatory sensory-deprivation experiments in The Center of the Cyclone. Pro athletes discovered more recently that flotation tank sessions miraculously speed up recovery and healing. The womblike experience encourages theta brain waves, associated with deep relaxation and meditation. Meanwhile the body experiences total relief from pressure points, while absorbing a dense, medical-grade salt mixture that conditions skin and relieves muscle tension. We found floating for an hour SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
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M Y B A N G KO K
Nooror
SOMANY STEPPE Chef Nooror Somany Steppe has long been a luminar y of Thai cuisine, and not just in Thailand. Her iconic Blue Elephant restaurants have earned critical accolades from Belgium to Bangkok. One part media personality and another professional chef, the lovely and lively Nooror recently chatted with us about food, life, and balancing business with pleasure.
How do you feel about the recent culinary trend of using Western ingredients to make classic Thai dishes? I have been incorporating foreign ingredients into my cuisine for over 12 years now. It’s a trend for the new market. I think through it all we’ve learned that uncommon ingredients can be used in Thai cuisine to great effect. How do you select the dishes you want to teach at The Blue Elephant Cooking School? I like to teach the most popular Thai dishes, the ones that make people think of Thailand when they visit, like Kaeng Keaw Waan and Phad Thai. We also do rarer dishes, like Pla Neung Manao and Tod Mann Pla. Sometimes it depends on the requests of my customers, because we are flexible and like to let our guests have freedom over the dishes they will cook. It’s our personal touch. You have earned a reputation for your charitable work, especially during Breast Cancer Awareness Month. How do you promote health and wellness through your food? I’m honoured to be the only lady chef ambassador of the Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer (QSCBC). As a chef, I take great pride in using Thai cuisine for awareness. In the old days, we believed Thai herbs were good for our health. Some ingredients even had properties that would help 112 | JUNE 2015
prevent cancer, like gooseberries. I believe in giving back to people, and I do that through food. How do you balance the running of the various Blue Elephant outlets? We have a good team in place that can reach our high standards of cuisine at the restaurants, and Blue Spice handles our food products and manages the quality control. So we have really great support at every venue that keeps everything running smoothly. How did your various TV features come about? I have done many cooking shows and interviews about Thai food, because Thai food has a lot of interest around the world. Being a chef has given me the authority to talk about the topic, and the media has much respect for our brand, too. That has given me the platform to share my love and knowledge of food with the public. How did your mother influence your culinary style, and who else inspires you? My mother used to sell food by boat in the canals. After a while, she and my sister started to run a small shop in the market. This is how I began to learn about Thai food — rice and curry. She taught me how wholesome, honest Thai food should taste. My auntie inspires me now, and so does Arjan Srisamorn Kongpan, a Thai cuisine guru with whom I have
had a chance to do TV shows. I have gained a lot of knowledge from her. How and where do you source your ingredients? I try to use best natural and organic Thai products. We try to get fresh ingredients daily from local wet markets and much of our specialty ingredients come from the Royal Project. What projects are you currently working on at The Blue Elephant? I’m working on a new menu that explores Chinese food and history, because Chinese visitors and Thai people of Chinese descent are very important local markets. What are your favourite places to eat in Bangkok? And where do you take visitors for a quintessentially Thai experience? I love to eat at Le Normandie at the Oriental Hotel. If I am taking friends out on the town, I usually go to one of two places: Benjarong at Dusit Thani, or Nahm. What do you like to do to unwind away from the kitchen/ business? I have always been interested in fashion. I love to design clothes. As with cooking, it has a heavy creative streak. In the past I have designed new uniforms for out restaurant staff, and for Breast Cancer Awareness Month I created pink-tinted chef’s attire. bangkok101.com