Bangkok 101 Magazine March 2017 by Talisman Media

Publisher’s Letter

n March 8th the word celebrates International Women’s Day, but at Bangkok 101 we are giving over the whole month of March to the celebration of women. In many ways it’s surprising that well into the 21st century we are still seeing women struggle for acceptance, equality, and respect, but compared to the state of things 100 years ago women have definitely thrown off the shackles of their 2nd class citizenship (in most “enlightened” countries, anyway). In this issue we focus on women who have achieved success and notoriety in their chosen fields. Some have overcome great obstacles in doing so, but all have become beacons of hope to fellow females who want the same sort of rewarding career opportunities. Thankfully, modern day Bangkok is a city where women are not held back, and this relative freedom has resulted in a long list of leading ladies who have excelled at what they do best. In fact, the list is far too long for one issue to cover, so we’ve just highlighted a handful of this city’s most dynamic movers and shakers. But the plight of women is still hanging in the balance in many parts of the globe. As an American I am shocked to see the way the United States is regressing under the leadership of Donald Trump. When it comes to women’s rights, his views—and those of his party—are as unenlightened as the views he has on immigration, wealth equity, freedom of the press, and telling the truth. Thankfully, the women’s protest marches that coincided with Trump’s inauguration show there’s still plenty of progressive thinkers in America, and around the world. Politics aside, you can find lots about women—and much more besides—in this issue and online at Enjoy. www.bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to discover what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop Mason Florence Publisher us a line at info@talisman.asia.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

M A RCH 2017 | 5

CONTENTS 18

CITY PULSE 12

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Meet Kathy MacLeod, a smart and satirical cartoonist with a long-running comic strip

Best of BKK International Women’s Day and other related events; The city’s leading ladies—from the fields of hospitality, tourism, food, media, communications, and the arts; Women’s groups in Bangkok

On The Block The heart of Chinatown

SNAPSHOTS 38

Tom’s Two Satangs On understanding history

Bizarre Thailand Excerpt from Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died – Part IV

42 44

Joe’s Bangkok Jazz Wednesdays at Smalls Very Thai Female grooming—from gravity-defying hair styles, to skincare and clothing

46 Heritage Exploring the campus of Chulalongkorn University

TRAVEL 48

Hua Hin 101 In this special 18-page travel destination feature we explore the popular seaside getaway of Hua Hin

Focus on Hua Hin Visiting the historic sites of this seaside town

On the cover

The women of Bangkok are a powerful force, and these days more and more of them are establishing themselves as industry leaders, business owners, and creative talents. In celebration of International Women’s Day on March 8th, we profile a wide range of this city’s leading ladies. Illustration by Michele Paccione.

51 52

Hua Hin Attractions There’s plenty of outdoor activities aside from the beach

Out & About, Hua Hin Eat your heart out with Feast Thailand Food Tours

56 58

Made in Thailand Superb wine and food pairing menus at Monsoon Valley Vineyard

Where to Dine Centara Grand’s atmospheric dining outlets

Health & Wellness An overview of some of Hua Hin’s best spas

Where to Stay Dusit Thani; Marriott; Anantara

Hua Hin Map A handy guide to all of the places in our travel feature

Weekend Wanderer Discover the charms of Cha-Am

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Shopping in Hua Hin Beachfront bargains at the Bluport Hua Hin Resort Mall

Hipster Hua Hin Exploring the cool kids’ hangout that is Naeb Kehardt Road

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | M A RCH 2017

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CONTENTS 86

ART & CULTURE

106

70 74

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Required Reading Murder on the Quai by Cara Black

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

104

Nightlife Updates

Photo Feature The artworks of a trio of amazing female artists

106

Bar Reviews Duke at Gaysorn

107

Connoisseur’s Corner Wine news and events in and out of Bangkok

108

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

Museum Spotlight Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles

FOOD & DRINK

NIGHTLIFE

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates Backyard By Baan

112

Lifestyle Updates

Restaurant Reviews Bunker; Char; Avra; Suan Bua; Up & Above; Grocery

114

Spa Deals Bangkok spas offer amazing deals and discounts

Breaking Bread With Francesco Lenzi from Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen

115

Spa Review So Spa

Eat Like Nym Jae Da’s atomic tofu

116

Digital Nomads The Work Loft

Making Merit Khanun offers vocational restaurant training for youth

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

LIFE+STYLE

SIGNING OFF 118

Did You Know?... The True Jazz Festival is coming to Hua Hin

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

PUBLISHED BY

Narong Srisaiya

PHOTOGRAPHERS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Jesper Haynes, David Jacobson, Alasdair McLeod

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

GENERAL MANAGER

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

SALES MANAGER

Orawan Ratanapratum

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

SALES AND MARKETING

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Kevin Cummings, Chris Michael, Lekha Shankar, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Dave Stamboulis, Tom Vitayakul, Annaliese Watkins

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR

Julia Offenberger EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Phen Parkpien Anansit Sangsawang

SALES EXECUTIVE

Kiattisak Chanchay, Thipthida Sorrapim Hatsawan Nontapadol DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Pimpimol Leetrakul

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

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CITY PULSE | metro beat

MARCH’S HOTTEST TICKETS March 2

NIGHT RIDE March 12

Bring your bike and join in on another exciting 15 km River Night Ride which will pedal through the side streets of Bang Rak, Chinatown, Khlong San, and Sathorn. Start time is 6:30pm and riders will be departing from 100 Kilometer Market, taking place in the Shangri-La Hotel’s Krung Thep Wing (the event’s end point is still yet to be determined). This is a free event.

CLASSICAL MUSIC March 28-29

The BBC Symphony Orchestra will make their Thai debut this month, performing two concerts at Prince Mahidol Hall (999, Phuttamonthon 4 Rd, Salaya). The program begins each night with the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s musical work the Kinari Suite, although the rest of the selections differ for each evening’s performance. The conductor will be Edward Gardner, with soloist Benjamin Grosvenor on piano. The musicians take the stage at 7pm, and tickets are priced from B1,000 to B10,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

The Unknown Mortal Orchestra returns to Bangkok once again—gracing the stage at Live RCA Bangkok (94, 23/92-94 RCA Alley)— this time touring in support of their latest album Multi-Love. Known for their amazing live performances, this part-American, part-New Zealand rock band explores the textured realms of psychedelic rock, rhythm and blues, indie rock, garage rock, and lo-fi music. Tickets are B750 (B850 at the door). www.ticketmelon.com

March 11

Modern jazz comes to Bangkok this month in the form of the Chick Corea Elektric Band, who will be appearing one night only at the KBank Siam Pic-Ganesha Theatre (7th Floor Siam Square One). The name Chick Corea is renowned in jazz circles. As a member of Miles Davis’s band in the late 1960s, the pianist participated in the birth of the electric jazz fusion movement. Later, in the 1970s, he formed the legendary Return to Forever band. Now, at 75 years of age, this keyboardist and composer (and winner of 22 Grammy awards) shows no signs of slowing down. Backed up by his four man Elektric Band, this American jazz legend is sure to put on a fiery performance. Tickets range in price from B1,800 to B4,500, and showtime is 7:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

March 18

The hugely popular Thai alternative band ModernDog takes the stage at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) for a concert that celebrates the group’s 22nd anniversary (and promises to be the largest gathering of Thai hipsters from the 90’s). Throughout the band’s more than two decades in the industry, they have never stopped producing quality music that stands out from the crowd. Tickets for this highly-anticipated gig range in price from B1,000 to B3,500 and gates are open from 6pm onwards. www.thaiticketmajor.com

March 25

Japanese “math rock” band Lite—lauded by many as one of Japan’s top instrumental rock acts—arrive in Thailand for the first time ever, and you can catch them on stage at Live RCA Bangkok (94, 23/92-94 RCA Alley) together with support acts Monomania and Spring.Fall.Sea. Doors open at 7pm, and tickets are B1,000. www.ticketmelon.com 12 | M A RCH 2017

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metro beat | CITY PULSE

PACHYDERMS ON PARADE March 9-12

The 2017 King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament will once again be held by the banks of the Chao Phraya River, next to the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort. Over the course of four days a full range of fun elephant festivities are on offer for the whole family. Now in its fifteenth year, the tournament raises money for projects that better the lives of Thailand’s wild and domesticated elephant population. This year’s event will feature 10 teams—for a total of over 40 players—as well as an opening day parade, children’s educational day, and ‘Ladies Day’ (known locally as the ‘Bangkok Ascot’). www.anantaraelephantpolo.com

ASEAN EXPO SHOW March 23-26

Thammasat University’s Center for ASEAN Studies presents the TU ASEAN Expo 2017, taking place at the Tha Prachan campus. The event marks the 50th anniversary of the establishment of ASEAN and a transition towards ASEAN 4.0. Thailand’s foremost sand artist Sompong Leerasiri will present his ‘Sand Art for the King’ showcase, while, the Center for ASEAN Studies will organize seminars, with well-known academics on the panel. For online registration, please visit the official website, or call Napat Sonto at 081 306 8914. www.tuaseanexpo.com

EDM MUSIC FESTIVALS DJ Zatox

March 18-19

March 4

Get ready to dance to the beat of eternity at Motorsportsland (72 Phahonyothin Rd) where the AnotherWorld music festival—which promises to “break all the rules”—gets underway on the first Saturday of this month. The high-impact DJ line-up includes Zatox, Coone, Noise Controllers, Mighty Fools, and Code Black. Tickets for the one-day event are B1,800 (B2,500 for special VIP passes). www.anotherworldfestival.com

The most manic music festival in March is sure to be Kolour in the Park which takes over the Thai Wake Park Bangkok (18/4 Soi Sudsawas, Lieab Klong 6 Rd) for two days straight. This outdoor house and techno festival, promises a multi-international line-up on three unique stages—including Hamburg’s Adana Twiins own Adana Twiins—as well as a graffiti exhibition, custom light show, pro wakeboard showcase, art installations, food, and more. Weekend passes are B1,900 (B2,500 at the door) and the festivities run each day from noon till 2am. www.kolourinthepark.com bangkok101.com

FOODIE FESTS March 3-5

The Bangkok Gourmet Festival, held at the Royal Paragon Hall, Siam Paragon, is the first event of its kind. The three-day celebration features an exciting gastronomy feast with celebrity chefs, master chefs, and Michelin-star chefs from America, Europe and Asia. Meanwhile, at the unique food fair, shoppers can taste a variety of the world’s best gastronomic cuisines, and interact with famous chefs at the live cooking shows. Admission is B200 per day. www.bangkokgourmetfestival.com

March 25-26

For two days the Gourmet Foodie Fest 2017 will gather the talents from some of Bangkok’s best restaurants at EmQuartier. Foodies can look forward to an array of delicious food stalls, tasting menus, and recipe demonstrations by chefs, as well as informative workshops. The festival runs from 11am till 10pm each day. www.facebook.com/gourmetfoodiefest

BOAT PARTY March 11

The Rabbit on the Boat party, which was postponed from last year, is finally taking place—making use of the infamous Vanvarang ship. Organized by the good folks behind Thong Lor’s much-loved Rabbit Hole bar, the evening will include live music from special guests, DJ sets, plenty of food, and even an art exhibition… all on the decks of one boat (and the boat is not sailing so guests can come and go). Tickets are B650. Contact 080 592 9577 for more info. www.ticketmelon.com M A RCH 2017 | 13

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Kathy MacLeod

Although to many she’s known as the clever satirist behind BK Magazine’s long-running ‘What She Said’ weekly comic strip, Kathy MacLeod is also a successful commercial artist and illustrator.

orn and raised in Bangkok—to a Thai mother and American father—Kathy MacLeod attended international school here before going to Wesleyan University in Connecticut to study fine arts. She always loved to draw, but it wasn’t until college that she realized she didn’t want to do anything else. How long has the ‘What She Said’ comic strip been running? I actually started a comic strip with the same name and basic concept for my university newspaper in 2003. Back then my drawing style was extremely basic; the character didn’t even have a mouth or nose, there were no backgrounds, etc. For the BK strip, which started in 2011, I cast myself as the lead character because I can only write what I know. Though lately I’m trying to make the comics for BK more universal. Is the main character a fairly accurate portrayal of yourself? Yes, almost embarrassingly accurate. I think most people can relate to the things I say, so I’ve become less afraid of showing all the neuroses and anxieties under the surface.

reflected back at them their whole lives and we end up internalizing it—but we’ve grown strong and found a voice despite it. I don’t think men are quite used to being mocked yet, and I’ve found that they are more sensitive to criticism than anyone. I’m also happy to make fun of mindless consumerism and narcissism, and other hypocrisies like that, which both genders are guilty of.

Does your weekly strip offer a suitable outlet for all your secret, or not-sosecret, frustrations? I’m always worried about being too negative in my comic, but it does feel cathartic sometimes to let out my You adeptly skewer urban attitudes and platitudes, but there’s also nods to frustrations with Bangkok, or people in Bangkok—or just make light fun of the never-ending ‘battle of the sexes’ something that fully deserves it and is in your strip. long overdue. And for my top secret I’m fully devoted to the fight for frustrations, there is my private comic gender equality. I use my comics as diary. I’m hoping someone takes the a way to explore and work out my initiative of publishing it all upon my views on these issues, because they untimely demise… are complicated and ever-evolving. A lot of men still see feminism as a Comics were once a male-dominated scary word and have an unsavoury domain, but that paradigm has shifted, view of feminists that is out of touch especially in Asia. Would you agree? with reality, and I’m happy to have a While the paradigm has definitely platform to try and shine a spotlight shifted, I think there are still challenges on how that is wrong, and how men for female cartoonists because the can do better. Sometimes it’s gentle powers that be are still very much maleand sometimes it’s not, and men get angry at me. Women have sexist views dominated. But women are producing 14 | M A RCH 2017

some of the most interesting work in comics and redefining the medium in amazing ways. The MacArthur Foundation just awarded one of their ‘genius grants’ to a cartoonist for the first time ever—Alison Bechdel. I was lucky never to have been told as a kid that I couldn’t draw comics because I was a girl. I really never experienced sexism until I became a professional and experienced “the industry” firsthand. I’ve encountered some pretty vile sexism from editors and other professionals. I was told recently by a comics professional that male cartoonists are more passionate and stick with it their whole lives, whereas women get bored of it eventually and move on to something else. I plan to prove him wrong. Who are some of your favourite female artists in Thailand? The art scene still seems to be very male-dominated here, but I love the work of Yuree Kensaku, a Thai-Japanese artist, and Piyarat Piyapongwiwat. And Tuna Dunn is a great cartoonist that I’d love to meet someday. Favourite hangouts in Bangkok? I think I’m at WTF at least once a week. Fun nights out often end at Woodball on Sukhumvit 53, or SoulBar in Charoenkrung. When I work outside the house I usually go to Ceresia in Sukhumvit 33/1 or Hello Stranger on Sukhumvit 26. Do you plan on remaining here in BKK? I feel very settled in Bangkok at the moment, in a comfortable place with my community and career. I don’t know where else I would go at this point. Though with the threat of rising sea levels, I’ll probably want to get out of here in the next decade or so. interview by Bruce Scott www.kathymacleod.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Women On Top

Celebrating Bangkok’s leading ladies—from the fields of hospitality, tourism, food, media, communications, and the arts

n March 8th the world will celebrate International Women’s Day, but for Bangkok 101 our entire March issue is being given over—as much as possible—to celebrating women. In our cover feature stories we have focused primarily on women in this city who have made great strides in the realms of tourism, hospitality, food and beverage, media, and the arts, but we also have a few more of Bangkok’s “badass babes” featured throughout the rest of the magazine as well. Of course, it’s worth reflecting that there are a lot of women the world over who are not quite so lucky, and who do not have the opportunities or good fortune that our featured females are blessed with. For them, the struggle still endures but organized activities such as International Women’s Day at least puts a spotlight on their plight. For people who want to learn more, and get involved, there are several special events in Bangkok to look forward to this month (and on into the future), the first of which is the 8th annual Women’s Leadership and Empowerment Conference taking place at the Aetas Lumpini hotel (1030/4 Rama IV Rd) from the 1st to the 3rd of March. www.wleconference.org Later in the month the 2nd edition of Festival Du Feminin in Bangkok, billed as a “transformative journey for women by women”, gets underway from March 24th to 25th at the Vie Hotel (117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd). Organized by Sylvie Baradel, the 2-day women-only event is fully dedicated to the exploration of the feminine through 20 interactive workshops, with time and space devoted to body-mind experiences, women’s personal growth, the healing arts, and spirituality sessions—hosted by an array of local and international experienced workshop facilitators. Tickets are B6,000 for both days, and B3,000 for a single day pass. Those interested can register by email at bangkok.womenfestival@yahoo.com, or call 085 020 4777 for more details. www.festivaldufeminin.com In April the Women’s Entrepreneurship Conference Bangkok convenes—from April 3rd to the 5th—at Bangkok University (109 Rama 4 Rd). This international 3-day conference connects researchers and practitioners who are interested in further advancing the field of women’s entrepreneurship. The 2017 edition of WECB promises to be a motivating, educational, and social experience, where local, regional, and international experts can exchange their research and experience. Women’s entrepreneurship has been strongly identified as an increasingly important contributor for economic growth and welfare, in particular for developing nations. www.women-entrepreneurship.org 16 | M A RCH 2017

Finally, on May 12th a Women In Tech event will be staged at Launchpad Co. Ltd (Sethiwan Tower, 139 Pan Rd) and will focus on the Southeast Asian tech scene. A highly experienced panel of women working in the industry will be discussing how companies are using technology to connect people, create communities, and facilitate business. Tickets for the event are B500 each. www.akinasia.com/women-in-tech

FEMININE FINE ART There are two interesting female-centric art events taking place this month in Bangkok. Don’t miss La Femme, a celebration of International Women’s Art in Bangkok, which is being held at the River City Shopping Complex (Charoenkrung 24). The exhibition, which runs from March 8th to 26th, encompasses eight artists, from seven countries, including Thailand’s own Karma Sirikogar (pictured). Among the other artists—hailing from Cuba, Israel, Colombia, Brazil, and India—is Mexican artist Cesar Arechiga, the lone male in the group, who was specially invited to participate and showcase his powerful collection of ‘Women Expressions’. For more info call 094 464 2864. On a much different note, local Thai artist Nualtong Prasarnthong has a display of her whimsical work on at Gaysorn Village (999 Phloen Chit Rd) until March 12th. This solo art exhibition, entitled ‘Eye On You’, is part of the mall’s Let It Be Love campaign (which opened last month just in time for Valentine’s Day). Visitors can check out Nualtong’s innovative works, including a gigantic 15-metre high jewelry installation in the main foyer and 26 acrylic paintings on display in the G level gallery.

bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Clockwise from top left: Srisamorn Kongpun; Nooror Somany Steppe; Vinder Balbir; Kamala Sukosol; Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui

The ‘Grand Dames’ of the Hospitality Industry Five dynamic women talk about how passion, perseverance, and self-belief have been the secrets of their success By Lekha Shankar

he hotel and restaurant industry in Thailand has seen some daring and dynamic women, who have been creative, active, and extremely successful—not just in expanding their own brands, but also pioneering new trends in the hospitality fields. To maintain these high standards, they have started hotels, restaurants, and even cooking schools. More importantly, their progeny is now carrying on the names, and the brands, forward and into the future. What’s more, all of the women profiled declared that they did not feel “deterred” being a woman. Having “self-belief” seems to be all that truly matters. bangkok101.com

THANPUYING CHANUT PIYAOUI: As founder of the magnificent, multi-brand Dusit Thani hotels, Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui is top of the list when it comes to the ‘Grand Dames’ of Bangkok, as she has so many “firsts” to her name. In 1929, she was the first woman to open a hotel in Bangkok—The Princess—and a modern one too, complete with a swimming pool. She later went on to open the city’s first luxury hotel, the Dusit Thani, and in a pioneering move, registered it on the stock exchange. She also started the first signature spa in the city—the Devarana—and she is also responsible for launching the first school for hospitality education. M A RCH 2017 | 17

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

During her nearly eight-decade tenure, Dusit hotels sprang up all over Thailand, and this dynamic woman even launched the first overseas property of the hotel chain. Today, the Dusit Hotels have as many as 29 properties, with 45 more projects coming up in the future. One of her ardent supporters throughout was HRH Princess Galyani, who “opened” all the Dusit hotels—up until 1997— starting with the The Princess, which was named after her. Amazingly, all this success came with no formal hotel training or education, but just pure “hands on” experience, according to her son Chanin Donavanik, who took over the hotel chain when Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui officially retired in 2004. “Her aim always was to develop Thailand as a world-class tourist destination,” her son stated. Chanin admits that no one could match his mother’s “can-do attitude and incredible work ethic”, which were inspirational to him and the entire staff of the hotel chain. After he retired, his son Siradej Donavanik took over the reins of the family business and is now the Director of Development for the hotel chain, which recently started Thai cooking classes at select properties, both in Thailand, and overseas. KAMALA SUKOSOL: The multi-faceted, and multitalented, hotelier Kamala Sukosol is also well-known in Bangkok’s society circles as an accomplished jazz-singer and dedicated charity-organizer. She did her Master’s degree in international affairs at Columbia, in New York, but knew nothing about hotels when her businessmanfather threw her into the fray. She bought some land in Pattaya and launched two hotels—the Siam Bay Shore and the Siam Bay View. Thanks in part to the efficient staff, the two hotels did exceedingly well. Kamala then opened the Siam City Hotel (now the Sukosol Hotel) in Bangkok in 1990. At first its location was remote, but today with the sky-train and airport rail-link at its doorstep, the hotel attracts both the business and tourist markets. This widely-travelled hotelier speaks French, Spanish, some Italian, and has also done a Russian Studies course—and her international “vision” has truly helped to develop the international image of her hotel chain. Kamala is particularly proud of the family’s two most recently opened hotels. The stunning Siam, located by the riverfront, is currently rated as the most expensive hotel in town and has attracted many Hollywood celebrities and assorted VIPs. Meanwhile, the Wave Hotel, in Pattaya, 18 | M A RCH 2017

is the newest in the fleet and has been designed like a Miami-style property. Both properties are managed by her two sons, Krissada and Suki respectively. But the girls are also in on the family business, and Kamala’s daughter Marisa is Operations Manager of their five properties, while second daughter Darunee, who formerly worked on Wall Street, manages the finances. “My family handles the hotel business totally,” Kamala says with pride, adding that the latest family member to suggest “ideas” for her hotels is her recently graduated grandson Dino. “One has to be open minded,” she states, “and one also has to be very passionate and tenacious!” Alongside her hotel success, Kamala has also found fame in the music business— as a jazz singer— and her yearly charity concert, where her entire family and staff participate, is one of the premiere social events in the city. Her jazz-prowess even brought Kamala into close contact with the late King of Thailand, a jazzlover, of whom she has “unforgettable memories.” Like her super-hit CD Live and Learn, this 80-year-old dynamo admits that she has never stopped “learning”. NOOROR SOMANY STEPPE: Early on in life, Nooror Somany Steppe wanted to be a fashion designer, which is probably why her Blue Elephant chain of restaurants have such style, elegance, and beauty. “Every visit to my restaurant is a trip to Thailand,” exclaims the culinary queen. What’s more, this superb chef not only preserves the classic Thai recipes, but has creatively added to them, contributing to a new dimension in Thai cuisine. But before all the notoriety, Nooror was just a young woman who went to Brussels to visit her brother. That’s where she met Karl Steppe—her future husband— bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE who loved both her and her Thai food and encouraged her to start a Thai restaurant there in 1980. The rest is history, and today, the Blue Elephant chain has outlets in 10 countries, spread out across Europe, the Middle East, and Asia (where they will soon open in Hong Kong). Her restaurant in Bangkok is in a gorgeous heritage building, which adds to the grandeur of the restaurant experience, and the long list of celebrity diners she’s entertained ranges from Russian President Putin to pop singer Rod Stewart. Nooror feels “blessed” that her three children have joined the business. Brussels-based son Kim manages the restaurant there, Phuket-based son Chris handles that outlet (which like the Bangkok location also has a cooking school), and daughter Sandra is the PR and Marketing Manager who also does double duty as chef in the cooking schools. Never content to rest on her laurels, Nooror is happy there are numerous Thai restaurants today, compared to when she started nearly three decades back. “Competition is good, so that we maintain our high brand”, she states with pride. SRISAMORN KONGPUN: Best-known for her more than two dozen Thai cookbooks—10 of which have been translated into English and 2 into Chinese—Srisamorn Kongpun is also a teacher to many of the top chefs in the city, including Blue Elephant’s Nooror Somany Steppe. She has advised hotels, restaurants, airlines, corporate companies, even the Royal Women Skills in the Royal Palace. Currently she’s a member of the Evaluation Board for Standard Thai Cooks (EBSTC), which tests Thai cooks all around the world. But this enterprising ajarn and food-guru admits she would now like to write simple cookbooks for students. “Some students do not know their own local food, but eat Western or applied Thai food,” she laments. “So my project, for the future, is to write cookbooks on local food with simple, easy-to-follow recipes.” At her Yingcharoen Home Science School, Srisamorn gives regular cooking classes to students, chefs, and restaurant owners. She says the main purpose of the school is to conserve authentic Thai recipes. “Thai food offers various tastes in one dish. Every true Thai dish also contains vegetables, many of which have medicinal values. That’s why Thai food is traditionally very healthy. Thais observing these standards rarely become bangkok101.com

obese. They are also protected from heart disease and osteoporosis. It’s because of its extraordinary taste and health benefits, that Thai cuisine has become so wellknown internationally.”

VINDER BALBIR: For a one-woman story of grit, determination, and hard work, look no further than the tale of Vinder Balbir. Born in Malaysia, Vinder lost her parents during the riots of 1969, was married to a ThaiIndian when barely seventeen, and hurriedly shunted off to Bangkok. She started cooking lessons at home, and later opened a tiny restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 11. None of her ventures worked, however, as—according to Vinder— there was not much knowledge or interest in non-Thai cuisines at that time. But she refused to give up. Then came the economic boom in India, after which everything ‘Indian’ became popular. That was when she started her flagship Mrs. Balbir’s Indian Cuisine restaurant—almost a decade back, and on the same soi. Today it’s one of the best-known Indian restaurants in the city. “To me attitude is altitude,” she reflects. “One simply has to be positive.” Today, the Balbir-chain has at least ten outlets across the city, mostly at well-known malls, and more are in the pipeline (she recently opened a branch at Empire Tower). “I study the area, and the clientele, before I start a new outlet and plan the menu,” admits the chefrestaurateur, who also offers some uniquely creative Indian dishes. According to her, Indian cuisine is unique because, “Every spice adds not just to the flavour, but to the health.” Mrs. Balbir runs a cooking school above her restaurant, with custom-made classes for people as varied as diplomats, chefs, young brides, even house-maids. World-famous rock musician Sting once sent his chef to learn veggie cuisine at her school. While her husband handles the finances, her only son Sonny supervises the elegant design and décor, as well as the website. Mrs Balbir has no PR or marketing team, and totally relies on her vibrant food to bring back her numerous repeat-clients. “After 40 years, I’ve learnt that you can win people’s heart by their stomach alone,” she declared. This vivacious lady has done food presentations at many hotels, conducted popular cooking shows on TV, and remains a well-recognized restaurateur in the city. Her food is in demand with various airlines too. Her team M A RCH 2017 | 19

CITY PULSE | best of bkk of 100 staff—spread out across all her restaurants—she manages singlehandedly, like her own family. “My brand is alive, because I’m 100 percent involved,” she states with justifiable pride. “It’s not been easy

running a restaurant today, as there are so many details involved, from buying the provisions, to cooking, to displaying and serving.” But “passion and perseverance” are her mantra to success, and she

admits she has gleaned the best from the three countries that are part of her DNA—Malaysia, India, and Thailand. However, Bangkok is her “home forever”, and she affectionately calls it the “food-capital of the world.”

MEDIA MAVEN Born in Thailand but educated in Singapore, Malaysia, the USA, and Switzerland, Naphalai Areesorn began her professional media career back in 1974 with stints at the Bangkok Post and the now-defunct Business Times. However, her career path also straddled the field of hospitality, and she’s been involved with both the Dusit Thani and Siam Inter-Continental hotels. In 1991 she started the Chiva-Som Health Resort and managed that award-winning Hua Hin health spa until 2001. Currently, she is Editorin-Chief at Thailand Tatler Group and head of the editorial team of Blue Mango Publishing. It’s certainly an impressive resume, but this demure dynamo points out that she didn’t have to “act like a man” in order to make it. You began your media career in the mid-1970s. Was it hard to make it as a woman back then? You know, mainly because of the kinds of jobs I’ve taken on, I’ve never felt that was an issue. I was always writing for English language publications, and my qualification was that I was able to speak, read, and write English very well. It was a “man’s world” back then, but I think I would have seen that even more if I’d gone into the corporate world. How are things different now that you’re the one in charge of a mini media empire? I tell my team they’re so lucky to have me as the editor because I’m the opposite of the old cigar chomping editor stereotype. I would like to say that I am a very caring manager but I know, from being overseas, that my style is not very Thai—meaning that if I feel something needs to be said I say it right away. But for me that’s the end of it. I don’t harbour grudges. And I’ve never been known to throw things at people (laughs). I may be small-sized physically, but I have a loud voice and I hate people walking over me. I never put up with that. Was it more, or less, of a man’s world when you were involved in the spa and hospitality industry? My jobs in hospitality were mainly in PR, traditionally areas where women excel more than men. But where it was more of a man’s thing, and more of a corporate thing, was when I put together the whole Chiva-Som project. I actually set up the company, I was the managerial director, I hired the staff, and did everything else. A lot of people think that it was Khun Boonchu [Rojanastien]. He was the deputy Prime Minister at the time, and the land owner, and he was the main shareholder. But I put together just about everything… from scratch!

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Is the Thai mindset patriarchal overall? It’s not really that patriarchal. There’s a saying that “the women are the hind legs of the elephant” meaning women are the ones who are driving everything. But Thai women don’t really feel they have to take the credit for it all. They do it quietly, behind the scenes, and the man takes the credit as the figurehead. In the working world women can go far, but in society, and in the family—especially lower down the economic scale—you will still find women who are considered sort of “property” of men. On one hand women can go really far, but there are still a lot of families where it is the sons who are expected to be the leaders and take over the family business. Is feminism alive in Thailand? It’s not an overt feminism. You don’t see women burning their bras and things like that. Maybe Thai women feel it’s not necessary to go out and shout about it. But I do think that Thai women have grown bolder. They feel now they can be the leader of an organization, or start their own business, and they’re no longer “pretending” it belongs to the husband, son, or brother. What are some of the values and traits in the women you look up to? The values that I look up to are embodied in a woman who is a leader but she doesn’t do it in such a way where she feels she’s got to be more “manly” than a man. Women have got a lot of their own characteristics which make them special and help them in their work—compassion, being meticulous, checking out the fine details, and so on. These are things that you should be using to forge your way ahead, and not be trying to dress like a man, shout like a man, and be aggressive like a man. interview by Bruce Scott

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Ahead of the Curve

These influential female hoteliers aren’t just balancing the scales in a male-dominated industry—they’re reshaping the entire landscape By Craig Sauers

t’s never been easy going for female hoteliers. Maleslanted stereotypes have turned hotel management into a role often pigeonholed for men. But now more than ever women are making their mark, and at the highest levels of the industry. Take the four women we’ve profiled, for instance—all in charge of big-name Bangkok properties worth millions of dollars. These four leading lights have not only excelled at esteemed hotels, they’ve opened eyes to the potential of all people, regardless of gender or race. Here are their stories of success. SARAID CASEY Hotel Manager of Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok

“A calm approach and listening a lot—that comes across in any culture,” Saraid Casey, Hotel Manager of Grand Hyatt Erawan, begins after a pause. It’s not easy to explain how one has achieved so much in a notoriously grinding industry, in a different country no less, and especially not when asked to do so on the fly. But this self-professed foodie and former not-for-profit professional manages to sum it up simply: “It’s about being a leader, point blank.” Casey has had plenty of time to cultivate her leadership skills. At 21, she got her first job in hotels, working behind the scenes in banquets at the Grand Hyatt in Melbourne. From there, she climbed the ladder all the way to assistant manager of the property before leaving to try her hand in sales and events for the Starlight Children’s Foundation, an organisation that benefits seriously ill children. “That experience solidified my obsession with food,” she says, adding that a large part of her job involved arranging charity dinners featuring celebrity chefs. While she refers to her work for the foundation as “a really rewarding five years,” the position posed plenty of challenges, too. “Everything I learned in Hyatt was global and structured, but in a not-for-profit, you have to turn an idea into something incredibly special, and you have to do that with nothing,” she says. “I learned a lot about cost and profitability.” That hard-earned knowledge of how to run a business with little—or even no—budget has proven advantageous in her work at the Grand Hyatt, the chain she returned to in 2010 after receiving a phone call from a former colleague, who invited her to return to the Melbourne outlet as director of sales and marketing (“Essentially training wheels for GM,” she explains). Two years later, Casey was offered a position in Bangkok, where she bangkok101.com

continues her rise to the top at the only hotel brand she’s ever worked for. This straight-shooting, glass-half-full, and incredibly likeable manager has never let her authority alter her worldview. “You have to listen to people to form truly deep connections,” she remarks as she describes how each day starts and ends with meetings while always prioritizing guests. And yet, despite her ostensibly nonstop schedule, she still finds time to do yoga, go for walks in Lumphini Park, and explore the city’s food scene. “I’ve been to Sühring seven times already,” she divulges, and then laughs. “We’re just so lucky here.” NOPPARAT AUMPA General Manager of The Banyan Tree Bangkok Front-desk workers everywhere should have one woman to aspire to: Nopparat Aumpa, or ‘Kai’ as her friends call her, started her career 26 years ago as an entrylevel employee; today, she’s general manager of one of Bangkok’s most prominent brands, The Banyan Tree. M A RCH 2017 | 21

CITY PULSE | best of bkk “I always say, ‘If something doesn’t challenge you, then it doesn’t change you,’” Kai remarks. “I have always had high hopes and never stopped challenging myself.” Those challenges began at the reception desk, before Kai was given a shot at a career-track position at the Westin Banyan Tree in 1996. That very same year, she won the Thurston-Dupar Inspirational Award, a recognition given by Westin to employees who demonstrate exceptional service to guests. The following year, she won the Service of Legend Award. If her journey to the mountaintop wasn’t already in motion, this second award sealed the deal.

“The journey has not been easy,” she admits. “There are a number of challenges in the hospitality industry— political unrest, global crises, national disasters, and the like—but in the long run, if you set your goals in the right direction and work hard for them, nothing is impossible.”

TINA LIU General Manager of W Bangkok

“In Thailand, we still occasionally hear about gender stereotyping,” Kai replies when asked about her perception of women’s rights and opportunities in the traditionally patriarchal world of hotel management. As not just a woman, but a Thai woman, in command of a major five-star property, Kai stands in a uniquely influential position. And she realizes as much. “I want to inspire women today. Gender should not be a hindrance to their goals in life. It’s how you set your roadmap, and how determined you are for it to happen, that makes the difference,” she says. For its part, the Banyan Tree brand has championed equal opportunities for men and women, with women in key management roles at properties in Morocco and China as well as Bangkok, including Banyan Tree Ringha, a hotel that Kai herself helped to open in 2005. (Kai, owing to her reputation for leadership, also launched Banyan Tree Mayakoba in Mexico and Banyan Tree Samui, where she was resident manager for a year). Having risen the ranks and represented only one brand throughout her career, the self-made Kai shows no sign of slowing down now that she’s at the helm of this landmark hotel. 22 | M A RCH 2017

Tina Liu left and came back again. Though radically oversimplified, that line nevertheless sheds light on both her beginnings in Thailand’s hospitality industry and her ascension to her current position as General Manager of the stylish W Bangkok. Born into a Thai-Chinese family in Bangkok, the go-getting Liu spent much of her youth in the United States, until a summer internship at the Mandarin Oriental cemented her rosy view of hotel life. “I knew in high school I wanted to explore hospitality. That was the only time in my life I could predict the future,” she admits. “Once I got into it, I thought, ‘This is it!’” After graduating, Liu landed an entry-level job at the Shangri-La. “It was the ‘university.’ Wherever you went after that, you would run into someone from the Shang,” she says. In the 90s, almost all the five-star properties lined the river, bar the Dusit Thani and Hilton Nai Lert. “There used to be boat pick-up service from the airport, and VIP check-ins on helipads.” So her next job at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit was, at the time, “considered out of the way.” Liu would leave to work at the Peninsula in New York for three years before returning to the Sheraton Grande. Eventually, fate would reset her course for Koh Samui. “I am not an island girl,” she declares. “Samui just came at bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE the right time. I’ve never worked for the next position. I’m a true believer in doing the best you can do where you are. It’s a quality journey, not the destination, that I look for—and quality journeys always seem to lead to the best destinations.” Such as the W, the first design hotel to open in suddenly red-hot Sathorn. This pivotal property came calling in 2015. Clever, cool, and well-spoken, practically the embodiment of the W in her own right, Liu sees the brand’s bravado and initiative as its greatest strengths. “Our company has been proactive in pushing the open mind to view talent,” she says. And when it comes to putting women in the most prestigious positions, she adds, “[The W doing that] helps make other companies see that it works. Why close ourselves off to potential?” She certainly sees potential all around her, from her employees to the elegant House on Sathorn next door to the very neighbourhood the hotel calls home. “People don’t always realise how much is here; we have everything within our radius,” she says, name-checking the clique of cool bars and restaurants on Sathorn 10 and 12, as well as the riverside and Lumphini Park, where she goes running to unwind from the week’s work. “The good thing about this industry is you have lots of friends at sister hotels [to talk to] at the end of the day,” says Liu. “The ironic part is, come Friday and Saturday, I want me time. I just want to stay in with a good glass of wine.” AMANDA HYNDMAN General Manager of Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok “As I say to anyone who inquires, hotels must be the fastest career path of any industry in the world,” jokes Amanda Hyndman, General Manager of the Mandarin Oriental. Considering she went from hired hand at a café to working in hotels for 31 years, the past 25 as a general manager at hotels around the world, her one-liner has more than a few elements of truth. Born in the UK, but perhaps by now a citizen of the world rather than one specific country, Hyndman went from being the youngest ever general manager of the Copthorne Hotels in Aberdeen and Glasgow, respectively, to taking the reins of Hilton, Millennium, and Waldorf properties. And all that before she even worked in Asia. Having come to Bangkok after a two-year stint in charge of the Mandarin Oriental in Washington, DC, Hyndman sounds perfectly at home in her position. “I believe, ‘What is for you won’t go past you,’ and I would

truly love to see out my career at La Grande Dame,” she says, referencing the more than 100 year-old hotel’s timehonoured nickname. While she admits that the industry “is a passion,” she says her family is fully supportive of her pursuit of it. That pursuit includes walking the Terrace three times every day between 7:30 and 10am to meet guests at breakfast, leading lobby duty from noon until 1pm every day, greeting the repeat and VIP guests arriving and departing, going back on lobby duty from 6:30 to 7:30pm, and then giving her best effort to do the rounds of all nine restaurants. Between that and the e-mails and phone calls she has to field, she carves 40 minutes out of her afternoon schedule to hit the gym and manages to sneak in four circuits of Lumphini Park on Sundays. A passion indeed. Despite the daunting schedule, and even in the face of uncontrollable events, Hyndman remains steadfast. “There have been many economic hurdles [since I started in the industry]—the first Gulf War, the London bombings, H1N1 in Hong Kong, and a couple in Thailand in recent years. But, as they say, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger,” she declares.

OTHER LEADING WOMEN OF HOSPITALITY IN BANGKOK LEANNE HUCKER: A social media maven and incredibly bright mind, Leanne Hucker leads the charge as Director of Sales and Marketing at The Siam, the riverside’s most luxurious boutique property—and seems destined to rise to even higher heights before long. CHOO-LENG GOH: As one of the most successful hoteliers in Bangkok, Choo-Leng Goh, General Manager of Plaza Athénée Bangkok, has helped turn this Royal Meridien property into the world’s first ISO 20121-accredited venue for sustainable events. Singaporean by birth, this family woman is fluent in Thai, as well as three other languages.

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Queens of the Kitchen Celebrating Bangkok’s Top Female Chefs and Restaurateurs By Dave Stamboulis

hile the realm of celebrity chef and restaurant mogul has tended to follow the words of soul icon James Brown, who crooned “It’s a Man’s World”, that trend is being bucked these days. We profile some of the sisters making it all possible—some who go it alone, and others who work alongside their romantic partners (which offers an equally daunting challenge).

who have been cooking for more than 50 years, and have such an in-depth knowledge of the cuisine that things just flow naturally for them. When asked what it’s like to run a business with her partner, Bee says that being together all the time with one’s partner in a kitchen—a place that is both pressure intense, hot, and exceedingly fast paced—was initially quite difficult. She admits that she and Jason fought a lot in the kitchen at first, but easily learned to switch that off after work. And that since the pair are constantly creating and running everything as a team, she couldn’t imagine doing it any other way.

Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun BONGKOCH ‘BEE’ SATONGUN: Chef Bee comes from a cooking family background and started cooking professionally when she met her partner, Australian Chef Jason Bailey. The two of them opened restaurants together in Australia, winning awards for their talents, before coming to Bangkok to open a fine dining restaurant for Thais—the result of which has been the much acclaimed Paste, which combines modern techniques while keeping traditional Thai flavours and authenticity. Bee acknowledges that being a top female chef here certainly has its challenges, but points out that even though high-end restaurant chefs have been predominantly male, if you look at the history of Thai food it was traditionally made—in the past—by female cooks in aristocrat households. In fact, there are many old women 24 | M A RCH 2017

Dana Garber DANA GARBER: It’s not only Thais making up the female contingent of chefs and restaurateurs in Bangkok. Dana, along with her husband Danny Garber, met in China a decade ago while teaching English in a small town. Missing good ol’ American grub they started a BBQ joint in Chengdu, but decided—after several years and multiple visits—that Bangkok was more to their liking. Thus their fantastic Texasstyle ribs joint The Smokin’ Pug was launched, and these days the intimate eatery is packed nightly with expats and locals clamouring for the baby back ribs. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE When asked for her take on being a woman running a restaurant here, Dana says that while Thailand offers its own challenges, being a female in the restaurant industry in the USA was even harder. Managing restaurants with male-dominated kitchens often made for sexist comments and an uncomfortable work dynamic. Here, it is more of an issue of strong women being seen as unattractive or feared, and it takes a bit more to earn respect. Dana adds that in China people were often shocked, wondering how on earth a 30-something woman was out running a restaurant until 2am, as opposed to being at home focused on kids. The larger challenge that emerges here—that of being a foreigner, and trying to get staff to see one as something more than this—is prevalent, although the difficulties are well outdistanced by the rewards of having a full restaurant each evening. And as with Chef Bee, Dana agrees that two is always better than one. “Since Danny and I met in China twelve years ago, we have only spent about ten days apart,” she says. “I believe that building businesses abroad has made our relationship incredibly strong. While we do get frustrated over different management styles, we are always able to laugh at things over a drink at the end of the night.”

establishment,” she says, and adds, “the industry is a man’s realm, both in Bangkok and internationally.” Lin also laments the idolization of chefs these days, with all the TV shows, awards, and social media, which makes out the life of a chef as wild and exciting, when in reality it isn’t. The nuts and bolts of running a restaurant includes water pipes breaking, air-con units not working, and difficulties with staff communication and motivation. However, the flip side of the hardships is that things somehow all come together by the time the doors open each evening, and customers come in and have a good time. Candice also casts a positive vote for running a business with one’s partner. Although these days Wrisley stays busy with Appia, the two of them still empathize and give constructive advice when it comes to problems either restaurant might be having. “A true test of a marriage is opening a restaurant together,” she says. “But I couldn’t imagine doing this alone.”

CANDICE LIN: To find the perfect example of taking trusted Thai street food favourites, giving them a twist, and serving them up in a cool setting—with creative cocktails matching the fantastic eats—look no further than Soul Food Mahanakorn. The Thonglor eatery (which has expanded to include a smaller grab-and-go version called Soul Food 555) is the brainchild of owners Candice Lin and her partner, Atlantic Monthly food critic Jarrett Wrisley, who now runs Appia—Bangkok’s best trattoria—while Lin handles Soul Food. Candice, a multi-talented Taiwanese-American who also teaches calligraphy at Chulalongkorn University, remarks that sexism in the hospitality industry can be extreme, especially working in the front of the house. “I’ve had my ass grabbed and foot stomped on among other things, even with Soul Food being a pretty classy

Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava

Candice Lin

DUANGPORN ‘BO’ SONGVISAVA: Chef and co-partner of acclaimed Bo.lan restaurant, Bo Songvisava was given the inaugural award for Best Female Chef in Asia in 2013. Since then, the restaurant has been listed in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and Bo, along with her chef husband Dylan Jones are well known throughout Asia, famed for a weekly TV cooking show, as well as their commitment to making Bo.lan (an amalgamation of their first names) become the first zero carbon footprint restaurant in Thailand. After doing a Masters in Gastronomy in Australia, Bo returned to Thailand to hone her skills but ended up in London (at David Thompson’s version of Nahm there), where she met her husband-to-be. The pair decided to return to Bangkok and open a fine dining spot serving authentic Thai food, something that really didn’t exist back then. These days, in addition to being a phenomenal chef, Bo is also a passionate educator, campaigning to raise awareness about Thai food and food security. “We eat more than three times a day and we need to take a look at the

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk damage that we do to the environment,” she adds gravely. While Bo.lan has focused on fine dining, Dylan and Bo’s sister restaurant Err features urban rustic Thai, and is located near the river, close to the Flower Market and Wat Pho. It offers a casual retro vibe, plenty of street food favourites and snacks, tasty cocktails, and continues in upholding this couple’s admirable traditions.

things,” she says, but points out that keeping her own last name has helped dispel some of those problems, as it enables her to establish her own identity. On the topic of women in the restaurant business in Thailand, Sarah remarks that, “There are many women in the workforce in Thailand, and many women in management positions, so I don’t think that when women succeed in the hospitality industry people are surprised, especially now that it is such a big industry here.” As for working with her partner, Sarah mentions that she and Ian have other work partners, and take on specific roles, which allows them to function independently. However, in their consulting firm it is just the two of them, in terms of final decision making and ownership.

Sarah Chang Chalermkittichai SARAH CHANG CHALERMKITTICHAI: Born in Boston to a Chinese father and French Canadian mother, Sarah Chang Chalermkittichai graduated Cum Laude from Tufts University, followed that up with a Fulbright Research Grant at Chulalongkorn, and then a Masters in International Finance and Business from Columbia University, before becoming a senior underwriter at a Lloyds of London company. Her work in the financial industry brought her to New York, where she developed an acute interest in the superb food and wine scene happening around Manhattan. This evolved into worldwide explorations, which took on a whole new twist when she met her husband and business partner-to be, famed Thai Chef Ian Chalermkittichai, who at the time had just opened his first US restaurant in Soho. The two combined their professional strengths and lifestyles, starting the food and beverage consulting firm Cuisine Concept Co., Ltd. Today they are the faces behind Issaya Siamese Club, and Namsaah Bottling Trust, as well as being partners and co-founders of the dapper Hyde & Seek gastro bar. Meanwhile, in New York City they are behind Spot Dessert Bar (multiple outlets), and Tangerine at Resorts World Singapore. Sarah confirms once again female stereotyping exists everywhere in the restaurateur and chef world, making it one big boy’s club. However, her background in professional finance—also a male-dominated industry— prepared her well for these challenges. However, one personal issue for Sarah is dealing with people’s perceptions of her as a celebrity chef’s wife. “People often assume I don’t work or just ‘help’ him with 26 | M A RCH 2017

Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul ARISARA ‘PAPER’ CHONGPHANITKUL: Chef Arisara Chongphanitkul, better known as ‘Chef Paper’, is a rising star on the Thai and international culinary scene. She completed her formal education at the Gastronomicom pastry school in France, and interned at the Beau Rivage Hotel (also in France). She has worked alongside pastry greats such as Sadaharu Aoki and Hugues Pouget in Paris, and Laurent Gerbaud in Brussels. In 2011 she returned to Thailand and started working closely with Chef Ian Kittichai at the award-winning Issaya Siamese Club. In addition to being Issaya La Pâtisserie’s Executive Chef and a founding partner, she is also the Executive Pastry Chef of Issaya Siamese Club. And if you want to marvel at some of her eye-popping creations, she and Ian have produced a beautifully illustrated cookbook featuring the recipes of all their favourite sweets. Chef Paper confides that her greatest challenges these days are in being a leader and being responsible. She remembers her days in Europe and remarked, “When I was in Brussels and Paris, I was just interning, I was just doing a job and nobody was following me, but now I am a leader with a team. If you do things wrong, the whole team can collapse. I always have to push myself and improve, otherwise I will stay at the same level.” bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE Paper encourages young women to find inspiration, whether it be from movies, people, or otherwise, and to use this in help finding one’s own style of work. She happily admits that the world of pastry is becoming more and more appreciated and that it has become “edible art”, not just about making sweet things.

bao burger eatery in Hong Kong in 2013, combining her North American upbringing with her Chinese Heritage. The wildly successful enterprise now has a branch in this city—appropriately named Little Bao BKK—with others in the works, making May an honourary Bangkokian. As a child, May loved watching her mother cook and serve up large meals to extended family. But her parents didn’t approve of translating that love into a degree, thinking of the life of a chef professionally as more of a low class job. Thus, the dutiful daughter went into a hotel management program at Boston University instead, but also began interning in restaurants (without mentioning it back home). She started selling her bao burgers at a food stall in Hong Kong, with servings selling out every time, and the eatery launched shortly thereafter. Chow thinks that in Asia, there is still an archaic view of the chef as a low-tier job, with long hours and low pay. Parents tend to think that there are drugs and gambling involved, and thus don’t want their girls to be part of the kitchen. But this is slowly changing. “When I was younger, I was given the easy jobs because I was a girl,” she recalls. “I wanted to be in the hot kitchen, but was always sent to the cold section. Thus, I stripped some of my “feminine” side to be with the boys. When you are young, you want to fit in, but once you get a bit older, you’re confident enough to move past this.”

Nan Bunyasaranand NAN BUNYASARANAND: As both Executive Chef and owner of Little Beast, a gastro bar serving contemporary French food that has been wowing local diners over the past several years, Nan Bunyasaranand is certainly making her mark in Bangkok. She got her start in the trade via interning at the Mandarin Oriental, and Berlin’s Adlon Kempinski, before enrolling at the Culinary Institute of America to fine tune her skills. After working as a chef in New York she started a private dining company in Bangkok, leading up to the opening of Little Beast. Chef Nan thinks that it isn’t just challenging being a female chef, but that it is challenging being a chef period! She says it best to put the battle between the sexes aside and just focus on the work. Comparing her stint working in the USA to Thailand, Nan feels that there is sexism to be encountered in both places—more so “verbally” in the States, while in Thailand there’s an older generation of Thai men that can be challenging to deal with. “I think there will come a time when chefs will just be cooks, not male chefs or female chefs,” she remarks. “And it will be less about who you are and more about the work you do.” As for why she decided to open a foreign food restaurant as opposed to going Thai, she concedes that she loves eating American comfort food, and as she’s always been cooking Western food it was an easy decision. “Besides,” she adds with a laugh, “in terms of Thai I also feel I’d never be able to cook as well as my mom or my grandma!” MAY CHOW: This year’s winner of Asia’s Best Female Chef is May Chow, who opened a twenty-seat Chinese bangkok101.com

May Chow Chow has also become a great role model for women in Hong Kong, where there haven’t been many female chefs, and hopes her recent award will help to change that situation, giving young women belief that if they aspire, they can succeed. For young ladies heading into the industry, Chow thinks Asia should work more on introducing university level culinary education, similar to the USA, adding that currently it’s too “vocational”. She also thinks there needs to be wider curriculum, and not just putting women in hotel internships, but teaching about up-to-date global food trends. M A RCH 2017 | 27

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Spymaster to Spicemaster Although she’s now a successful restaurateur, Meyung Robson spent many years based in Bangkok working as an FBI special agent

orn in Vietnam, Meyung Robson was crowned Miss Saigon in 1970 at the age of 20, but was forced to leave her home country a few years later. Her father, a South Vietnamese army general, understood the gravity of the situation and the day before Saigon fell to the North, the family jumped on a ship to the USA—with the clothes on their backs and not much more. Robson eventually began working as a government translator, and soon applied to work with the FBI as a special agent. On February 4, 1984, she was sworn in as the first Vietnamese-born (and 3rd Asian female) special agent of the FBI. She and her two small children traveled the world, usually working undercover on a variety of cases. Later on, she was transferred to the US embassy in Thailand. When Robson retired in 2004 she took up cooking, opening the original Xuan Mai on Sukhumvit 55. However, she closed that location down and has now re-opened closer to her home. She also revealed that she is in the process of writing her memoirs. Can you tell us about your days as an FBI special agent? Back then, being the only female FBI special agent gave me quite a lot of latitude in picking out the kind of work I wanted to do. The times I spent going undercover were the most memorable. There was not one suspect in our investigations who would have dreamt that the poor woman they saw, carrying a baby, would one day testify against them. I had a lot of fun play acting in those days. When I was given the chance to move to Thailand and work in a two-person office at the American Embassy, bearing responsibility over FBI matters in eleven countries in Asia, I went full circle—having left Vietnam in 1975, and returning twenty years later to serve as the bridge of cooperation between the FBI and the 28 | M A RCH 2017

was the best decision to become a chef. Being my own boss is the most satisfying job of all.

Graduating from FBI Academy 32 years ago

Vietnamese Police. I am most proud of this achievement, and along the way, I was instrumental in the apprehension of two of the FBI’s Top 10 most wanted fugitives. What was it like as a woman working in the FBI back then? Did you have to work harder to prove yourself? When I joined the FBI, I was fortunate enough to pretty much check all the requirement boxes—by being a female, minority, professional, language expert, etc. Then when I actually started the job, I realized that there was no precedent, no examples for me to follow, and so I just had to walk my own path and set the model for the ones who would succeed me. There were moments that I regret, times that I thought I could have done better, but on the whole I treasure the memories, the camaraderie, and the unique opportunity I was given. Why did you decide to retire in 2004? When I moved my young children to Bangkok in 1999, I had to struggle raising them in a foreign land, and doing a very challenging job all alone at the same time. Two years later, I went through a bad divorce and so in July 2004, as soon as I qualified for retirement, I wanted to start over and once again prove to myself that I could do it all on my own. Looking back, it

Why (and when) did you close down the Sukhumvit Soi 55 location? I had operated Xuan Mai in Bangkok for over 10 years—doing all the shopping, cooking, serving, and hardest of all, having to commute daily from my home in the suburbs of the city. In late 2013, when the political situation became dicey, the street demonstrations affected the business life more than I could bear. So I decided to move my operation to where I live instead. I live in a wonderful enclave in Pakkret, Nonthaburi, and a month or so after I closed my restaurant in Bangkok, I decided to start my Vietnamese food delivery within the compound. That, and the customers’ enthusiastic response, led to my running a ‘Chef Table’ (by reservation only). What are some of your restaurant’s popular specialties? I have a limited menu available for delivery, and offer several signature dishes that have long been on the request list of many frequent patrons, such as passion fruit crème brulee, avocado salad, eggplant crostinis, and special Vietnamese dishes that are not easy to find outside the country. Do you still travel to Vietnam to get extra fresh ingredients? Yes. It is extremely important for me to be close to the source of supply. Luckily, Thailand also grows certain common herbs like mint, holy basil, dill weeds, etc. But nothing compares to a steaming bowl of Phở Bò topped with a generous handful of shredded, fragrant hành lá, rau mùi, húng chó, and chanh, hand-carried from their point of origin. My customers will gladly attest to this. interview by Bruce Scott www.xuanmairestaurant.com bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Girl’s Getaways

Thailand’s top tourism sectors set out to seduce female travellers By Luc Citrinot

laying the seduction card, aimed towards female travellers, Thailand’s Ministry of Tourism in cooperation of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) as well major private partners such as airlines and hotel chains, launched a campaign last year targeting women travelling. And this coming August—the month which celebrates the birthday of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit—has been designated as a special month dedicated to women holiday-makers, complete with tailor-made offers. “The Royal Government is using the auspicious month celebrating the birthday of our Majesty Queen Sirikit, by dedicating all of our marketing campaign to women,” proclaimed Her Excellency Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul, Thailand’s Minister of Tourism and Sports, during a launch dinner last year. “We bundle our resources to facilitate the travel into Thailand for female tourists, offering not only a wide range of discounts in accommodation, shops, or restaurants, but also by working with our immigration authorities with a dedicated immigration lane at airports.” The TAT also understands the asset of capitalizing on female travellers. “We know that it gives a strong message about our Kingdom as a safe destination,” explains Srisuda Wanapinyosak, Deputy governor Marketing Asia Pacific for TAT, and one of the masterminds behind the campaign. “But Thailand is also perceived as the essence of well-being, and as a mature destination able to offer a tailor-made experience to any market segment.”

bangkok101.com

The campaign aims to not only show that Thailand remains a female-friendly destination thanks to its incredible range of products—from boutique hotels, to shopping and spa facilities—but that the country is also promoting female-friendly sporting activities, such as golf (there’s even a dedicated women’s tournament), boxing, and cycling. The campaign organizers also want to highlight Thailand’s traditions that are best exemplified through its women. Cuisine is one important part of it but traditional textiles, perceived as one of the Kingdom’s most enduring heritage legacies, is another. Last year, one of the highlights of August—the dedicated women’s month—was an event entitled ‘Passage of Thai Fabric: A Tribute to Her Majesty the Queen’. The exhibition paid tribute to Thai textile heritage, and Queen Sirikit’s dedication in preserving that heritage. “This year, we are looking at organizing Thai designers fashion shows which will again put the emphasis on Thai silk beauty,” says Srisuda. Finally, a dedicated free mobile application, called Women’s Journey Thailand, enables users to navigate through information and special offers, which will aid in planning one’s travel schedule in Thailand accordingly. The products, services and events are listed under five categories: Beautiful Look; Beautiful Shape; Beautiful Mind; Beautiful Retreat; and Beautiful Experience. www.tourismthailand.org M A RCH 2017 | 29

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

H.E. Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul

Ladies at the Centre of Thai Tourism: H.E. Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul, the Minister of Sports and Tourism, Royal Government of Thailand, remains forever passionate and compassionate

ack in 2014, the new military government led by General Prayut Chan-o-cha, appointed for the first time in Thai history a woman—with no real connection to tourism—to the position of Minister. Mrs. Wattanavrangkul, as she was then known, worked as part of the interior design team of Mah Boon Krong Shopping Mall, and as advertising manager and then chairperson for Toshiba Thailand. In her youth she studied in America, at first fine arts at Wellesley College, in Massachusetts, and later architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design. Little did she know prior to 2014 that her CV title would one day read Her Excellency Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul, the Minister of Sports and Tourism, Royal Government of Thailand. Since taking over this top-ranked governmental position, the minister has been relentlessly present everywhere. She is certainly one of the most popular—if not the most popular—faces of the government these days. Her popularity has a lot to do with her vision and personal involvement in tourism. As a minister she brings to the position an unfortunately not-so-common dimension in politics—a passion for the job, and a passion for people. “Tourism makes us close to each other, makes us embrace the cultures of others and can turn first time relations into long-lasting friends,” she once stated in her opening remarks to Thai private and public tourism stakeholders. “I consider tourists more like friends, and this is essential in our travel industry.” 30 | M A RCH 2017

To further her goals, she calls regularly on the entire industry to work on the principles of what she describes as the “3Rs”—standing for “Restructure, Rebalance, and Reposition”. As minister she has also been a relentless advocate for quality in tourism, supporting initiatives in the field of not only luxury travel, but also all the elements which are seen as the quintessence of Thailand’s cultural DNA. “By turning Thailand into a premium quality destination, we not only want to help the entire Thai tourism industry to follow suit by developing quality products and services, but also to think beyond the trade. I believe that tourism ultimately benefits to all the components of Thai society. Crafts for example are part of our Thai way of life. Most of the exquisite pieces created these days by our farmers are made under

the guidance of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit,” she points out. “Promoting our wonderful textile heritage then provides work and pride for female weavers in remote villages and assures them to get an income,” the minister stresses. “Buying a crafted scarf from a Thai village is not just a simple act of buying something but is a responsible contribution for a better living to our rural communities. This is an important act to encourage villages to nurture century-old handicraft.” HE Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul is also keen to promote secondary destinations aside of traditional holiday spots. “Here too, it is a way for our foreign guests to enjoy an authentic Thailand experience—to plunge into the roots of our Kingdom. And as such, to then leave our country with the hope of having made new long-lasting friends,” she adds. by Luc Citrinot bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Srisuda Wanapinyosak

Ladies at the Centre of Thai Tourism: Srisuda Wanapinyosak, Deputy Governor Marketing Asia Pacific for TAT, stands out as being both creative and outspoken

he will often be noticed during official events for her special hair-do (created for her in New York according to some of the staff working closely with her) and her highly fashionable dresses, more often than not created by young Thai designers. The woman in question is Srisuda Wanapinyosak, who has been working for a couple of decades now for the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), having been Deputy Director in Paris, and then Director of the New York Office, before becoming Deputy Governor in charge of Asia Pacific. A strong personality, Srisuda belongs to the new generation of women who have a bold vision of tourism—daring to speak her mind and take decisions. What are some of the things you learned during your time overseas? I learned a lot from my years in Paris and New York in terms of work ethics. I learned about the strength of efficient and straightforward decisions. Of course, I use it all now at my position in Asia, although I have a different approach to those markets due to cultural differences with the West. How do you evaluate the position of women in Thailand today? Women are increasingly active in public life and in the business world. And this is especially true in tourism. Do you know, for example, that according to surveys, travel decisions in a family are made—or at least influenced—up to 90 percent of the time by women? In other areas over 40 percent of women are decision makers these days. This is bangkok101.com

an irreversible trend and Thailand acknowledges the positive role that women play today in our public life. Do you think that women have a different vision than men do when it comes to tourism? We definitely complement each other, highlighting our differences, but this only helps to improve together our lifestyle and, of course, the way to conduct business. For example, women will certainly see little things that men will definitely not focus on. In marketing, I think that women would look at some markets or concepts which might be ignored by a male team. For example, I was very pleased to introduce to TAT the idea of promoting more luxury travel, and go away from the concept that Thailand remains a “cheap” destination. Ladies are experts in that field. They are the largest spenders, as travellers, and they have the expertise when it comes to quality and luxury.

I assume that female travellers’ expertise is the impetus behind Thailand’s recent marketing campaign which is geared specifically towards women, correct? You are right. Luxury travel pushed us to look more closely at female travel. I worked a lot on that concept, and I am so glad that TAT endorsed the idea. We launched last year our ‘Women’s Journey to Thailand’, a campaign which shows that Thailand is an ideal destination for female travellers. We offer anything and everything women are looking for. Not only in shopping related activities, or in the beauty and spa fields, but also in sports, soft adventure, culture, and gastronomy. And I must admit that I feel proud about the result since we launched the campaign last August. We have now 48 percent of all travellers to Thailand being female, compared to 30 percent a few years ago. And we will continue the campaign this coming August with even more events and special offers! Is there any one thing you are particularly proud about with respect to your work at the TAT? I think that the female travellers campaign is one of my most rewarding achievements in marketing for Thailand tourism. But I am also very proud to have been among the first to initiate, in New York, a marketing effort towards the LGBT communities. Just to show that we do not discriminate anybody in Thailand and warmly welcome all communities regardless of their race, religion or sexual orientation. Interview by Luc Citrinot M A RCH 2017 | 31

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Indie Chicks

Two women who are stretching the envelope and keeping Bangkok interesting By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

SUJITTRA ‘TUKTA’ LIKACHAI The home of Sujittra ‘Tukta’ Likachai crackles with creative enterprise from the minute I walk through the door. A sleek double bass, trimmed tuxedo black and white, leans against a wall hung with posters displaying punk and rockabilly hair-styles. Shelves below the prints hold boxed celebrity bobble-heads, jars of pomade, and other motorhead Americana. Meanwhile, Tukta’s husband Kaittipop ‘Vans’ Makrum is bending over a slim woman laid face down on a tattoo table, drilling ink into her bare back. Standing up from a sewing machine, surrounded by a headless gang of sewing mannequins, Tukta offers a warm greeting accompanied by a wide smile and flashing, bright eyes. She wears a slouch baker boy, faded jeans, and a white T-shirt bearing the stenciled logo of her well-known band Trix O’Treat. I’ve seen Trix O’Treat perform several times around Bangkok. The city’s only true rockabilly/swing crew, the band performs every Thursday and Sunday evening at Parking Toys, one of Bangkok’s most happening live music 32 | M A RCH 2017

venues. They’re also very in demand for special events, including motor shows and local music festivals. “We started the band around eight years ago,” says Tukta. “Before that I was in a band called Skaberry that did ska and punk. Skaberry put out an album on Grammy, and it did OK, but as we got older and started listening to other kinds of music, our tastes changed direction.” Tukta says it was her father’s early Johnny Cash records that turned her on to rockabilly. They learned to play the style after listening to a broad range of American rockabilly and early swing artists, and changed their name to Trix O’Treat. “We have a repertoire of over 70 tunes now, and rotate through them at gigs,” she explains. “Plus, we have seven original songs, which have been released as an EP. There are five more originals ready to go, which we hope to record soon. The problem is, everyone involved in the band is really busy.” She could be referring to herself. Besides performing with Trix O’Treat, Tukta is a partner in husband Vans’ tattoo business. They used to have a separate studio, but when it got to be too much shuttling between home, tattoo studio, and band gigs, they moved the business to their Bang Khen home. Tukta’s own arms carry a beautiful, graphics-oriented selection of Vans’ work. Besides rocking together in Trix O’Treat and booking a steady stream of tattoo clients, Tukta and her husband run Siam Greasers, a company that imports a variety of pomades, waxes, and combs for dressing vintage men’s hair styles. They sell their products online via www. thaipomadeshop.com and also locally at barber shops, styling salons, and vintage night markets. It was only natural that they eventually opened their own barber shop, Bangkok Greasers, in Ratchada Train Market, specializing in pompadours, jellyrolls, ducktails, and other slicked-back greaser dos that would make Elvis, James Dean, or Gene Vincent proud. Unlike their Sukhumvit equivalents, Bangkok Greasers offers cuts that won’t relieve all the cash in your back pocket. Tukta confessed passion for 40s and 50s teen Americana also led to the establishment of Hotrock, a hotdog joint alongside Bangkok Greasers in the same weekend market. We haven’t tried them yet, but judging from Facebook photos alone, the dogs look authentic, as do the burgers. What’s next for Tukta? “I’ve been designing and sewing my own clothes, as a hobby, for a while,” says the rockabilly heartthrob. “I’m hoping to start a small fashion collection focusing on 40s to 50s vintage style soon.” bangkok101.com

Photo by Jesper Haynes

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

NYMPH HUTAKOM Floating towards the opposite end of the musical spectrum, Bangkok native Nymph Hutakom looks not to the past, but to a constantly expanding present, with little regard for trends or mainstream commercial tastes. The only female so far granted full membership to the Thai Composers’ Association, Nymph hails from an artistically pedigreed family. Her grandfather was Sakkasem Hutakom—more commonly known by his pen name, Ing Orn (1918-1986)—and was a famed 20th-century poet, novelist, dramatist and composer. Her father, Santithorn Hutakom, became known to millions of Thais via his Two Worlds adventure travel TV series on Thai channel 5 in the 90s. Meanwhile her mother Nima Rasidee helped found ITV television network, and today works as a producer for Channel 3. When I catch up with Nymph at an art exhibition opening on the Eastern & Oriental Express train, she’s dressed in an elegant, yet sexy, black-and-white floral print sleeveless, midriff-baring top and matching pants. Her eyes widen as she talks about how her interests in sound and music started early. “When I was young,” she says, “my favourite pastime was recording random sounds and noises, and my own voice, and then replaying and tweaking them.” The tweaker eschewed a university path, instead enrolling in SAE Institute for a diploma in audio engineering. Her skills in producing electronica led to a collaboration with The Photo Sticker Machine, a project revolving around the compositions of Vichaya Vatanasapt, one of Thailand’s seminal minds in the genre. For an album Vichaya released on the Hualampong Riddim label in 2011, Nymph wrote the lyrics for and sang on the downtempo/ trip-hop “Last Summer.” To this day, it remains The Photo Sticker Machine’s most enduring track. bangkok101.com

Nymph continued to develop her unique avant-garde singing style, and soon afterwards recorded and produced an eponymous album of original digital compositions completely on her own. I first met her when the album was still in the mastering stage, and was blown away by her unique lyrics and musical expression. Although that first album saw limited release (and is unavailable today), it caught the attention of avant-garde music freaks in Bangkok, earning Nymph a reputation as the “Bjork of Thailand.” On her second album, Nymph steered away from digital music and was accompanied by a jazz trio of piano, drums and bass. Called 4Tet, it was released on Hitman Jazz, a Bangkok-based label that had theretofore only distributed music by international, non-Thai artists. The eight tracks reflected an intimate yet highly imaginative interpretation of the jazz idiom. Nymph’s “little girl” voice created a sound that was nothing like that of any jazz singer living or dead. It took her nearly a year to finish the album, which was released in mid-2013. “There were a lot of details to take care of,” says Nymph. “Especially in the recording stage. Thankfully, I was able to get some Swiss musician friends [drummer Christoph Staudenmann, bassist Emanuel Schnyder and pianist Mark Koch] to play on the album, but sending the tracks back and forth took time. “Although I’m sure there are a lot of talented Thai musicians, I may not have yet found the right ones,” she says. “My style of jazz is different. Each track has twists of Latin, swing, indie and even reggae. The Swiss artists knew what I was talking about. It just clicked when we played together.” Later in 2013, well-known Thai-Irish director Tom Waller shot a music video for Nymph’s “L’Animal Graffiti,” which saw the artist singing and coyly dancing in front of a large and impassive green iguana. Live performances followed at The Space, Soy Sauce Factory, Renaissance Bangkok, and other venues around Bangkok throughout 2014 and 2015. Most often Nymph performs solo, triggering loops and pre-recorded musical lines while manipulating effects with one hand, and singing into a microphone held in the other hand. Occasionally she’s accompanied by a live drummer. Audiences at Nymph’s live performances are often spellbound by the display of technical wizardry as well as the charm of her vocal delivery. As much as she can—given the manual demands of her keyboards and synthesizers— she also manages to add sensual dancing to the mix. Last year, Nymph began doing sound design for live band performances around the city, including at Maggie Choo’s, Whisgars, and Apoteka. This has enabled her to bolster her meager musician’s income while at the same time introducing her to many Bangkok performing artists she might not otherwise have a chance to meet. Meanwhile, her recorded music continues to find its way into other outlets, including local Comet Records compilations, and DJ/electronica streaming sites such as UK-based Juno Records. “I’ll go back to recording and performing before long,” says Nymph, “but for now I’m happy taking a long break.” M A RCH 2017 | 33

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Sisterly Support A guide to women’s groups in Bangkok

BRITISH WOMEN’S GROUP BANGKOK Formed in 1969, the British Women’s Group Bangkok (BWG) consists of a voluntary committee of around 20 women. The group organizes a range of activities and services for both its members, and newcomers to Bangkok, including monthly gatherings, and excursions—such as a recent day trip to Khao Yai Wineries—along with regular weekly activities, such as golf outings, art and crafts groups, book club, and tennis. In addition, the BWG is also involved in supporting a large number of Thai charities, including Helping Hands, Soi Cats and Dogs, and the Bangkok Refugee Centre. The next major fundraising event, ‘Night of Music on the River’, will be held on March 18th. All events are advertised in the bi-monthly Contact magazine and on their website. www.bwgbangkok.org AUSTRALIAN-NEW ZEALAND WOMEN’S GROUP First formed in 1954, the Australian Women’s Group (AWG) officially merged with the New Zealand Women’s Group (NZWG) in 1983 to become the ANZWG. The group’s primary goals are to promote friendship amongst its members, and to encourage and support each other. This is done via the organization of regular weekly activities, monthly excursions within and beyond Bangkok, as well as through social and fundraising events that fill up the group’s social calendar, the highlight being the annual Melbourne Cup Charity Luncheon in November. The luncheon and the sale of the group’s two publications—The Bangkok Guide: The Essential Guide to Living in Bangkok, and The Bangkok Guide: Relocation Essentials (eBook)—provide a major source of funds for welfare and community projects, which range from educational scholarships, renovation of bathrooms, kitchen and bedrooms at an orphanage, to the provision of beds at a school. www.anzwg-bangkok.org 34 | M A RCH 2017

AMERICAN WOMEN’S CLUB The American Women’s Club (AWC) was first organized in 1955, and is open to all woman living in Thailand (not just Americans). By organizing different activities, including mahjong, tennis, yoga, and cultural excursions in and around Bangkok—as well as monthly membership gatherings—the AWC helps its new and present members to meet, and get to know Bangkok and the Nichada Thani communities (expat towns). In addition, the AWC also supports the Thai community with its primary target being women and children. “AWC’s core focus is our Scholarship Program,” explains president Lauri Barrett. “We raise funds and solicit scholarship support from individuals in the sponsorship of one Thai girl from rural Thailand with limited resources, providing her with the funds to allow her to continue her high school education.” To date, the scholarship committee has supported 7,000 underprivileged women to complete their last three years of school. www.awcthailand.org SOROPTIMIST INTERNATIONAL CLUB OF BANGKOK The Soroptimist International Club of Bangkok (SIB) is the local branch of a global volunteer organization working together to transform the lives of women and girls. Consisting of five federations, the SIB, as well as their second Thailand club—SI Dusit—are part of the federation of SI South West Pacific, with chapters in 12 other countries in this region. The organization was established in 1977, and currently consists of 24 active members from six nationalities— both Thai and non-Thai. Over the past 40 years, SIB has sponsored different annual projects to improve lives women and children in Thailand, ranging from scholarships and construction projects, to workshops at a women’s prison, and child care support. To raise funds for these projects, the SIB organizes an annual gala fundraising event, which, in 2017, will be the Combined Women’s Luncheon event, hosted in collaboration with the SI Dusit on June 17th. www.sibangkok.org bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | on the block

Sampeng Lane Market

Busy Yaowarat Road

The beautiful buildings on Song Wat Road

The Heart of Chinatown Bustling Yaowarat Road and its surroundings are packed with maritime history, food, and shopping Words and photos by Julia Offenberger

t’s the Year of the Rooster (or ‘Fire Chicken’), and though the Chinese New Year celebrations have subsided, Bangkok’s Chinatown remains an exciting and sprawling neighbourhood all year round. While it’s often considered a foodie’s haven—with its myriad of markets, street vendors and restaurants—the area around Yaowarat Road is also one of the city’s oldest and most historical neighbourhoods, originally formed when King Rama I moved the capital of the kingdom from Thonburi (on the west side) to Rattanakosin (the east side of the river) in 1782. Chinese immigrants, who had originally settled in the latter, had to move to make way for the construction of the Grand Palace. They resettled in what is today’s Chinatown, covering a large area around Yaowarat and Charoenkrung Roads. The easiest ways to reach this part of town are either taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Ratchawong Pier, or the MRT to Hua Lamphong station. And because it would be nearly impossible in one article to properly profile the entire area that is officially known as Chinatown, we’ve concentrated on a 36 | M A RCH 2017

representative “square”, right in the heart of this exciting neighbourhood. If you arrive by boat, just head north and then take a right onto the narrow and bustling alleyway known as Soi Wanit 1, or Sampeng Lane. Before Yaowarat Road became the main thoroughfare, this used to be Chinatown’s centre and Sampeng Lane Market is still one of Bangkok’s biggest wholesale markets. Divided into sections, you’ll find everything from cheap clothing and shoes, to jewellery, toys, gold, electronic goods, and so on. The market is open until around 6pm, and it can get very busy during the afternoon, with carts and motorbikes trying to squeeze past tourists, locals, and a horde of shoppers. If you are ready for a break, take a left onto Yaowarat Road and continue walking east until you reach the large glass front of Double Dogs Tea Room on your right. This air-conditioned, and minimalistic furnished tea house is a welcome and calming oasis amidst the hubbub of Chinatown. Specializing in teas from China, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, and Japan, herbal brews are taken very serious here bangkok101.com

on the block | CITY PULSE

Jazz nights at the Shanghai Terrace bangkok101.com

Phat Sai Rd

Phadung Dao Rd

Yaowarat Rd

nit

an Y

uan

Soi

Song Sawat Rd

T&K Seafood

Soi Nana 8

Yaowa Phanit Saph

Tok

and are served in miniature ceramic tea pots or larger bone china cups. The menu is educative and easy to read for those who are newcomers to the world of tea. To accompany the brews, you can choose from a selection of Chinese and Western desserts. Another option to refuel your energy is at Easae (Eiah Sae), an almost century-old shophouse café located on Phat Sai Road. Sparsely decorated, with a few pictures on yellowish walls and dark wooden tables, this authentic and traditional coffeeshop is a favourite hangout for grandpas who sit outside smoking and playing chess. Enjoy walletfriendly hot and cold beverages, including Thai milk tea and Thai iced coffee, or dig into some homemade bread slathered with condensed milk, orange jam, or egg custard. Next up, walk until the end of the road and take a right at Song Sawat Road, where you’ll find Wat Samphanthawongsaram Worawihan. This ancient temple from the Ayutthaya period was formerly surrounded by a moat connecting to the Chao Phraya River, giving it the name Wat Koh (Temple on the Island). In 1796, King Rama I renovated the entire temple, and later—during the reign of King Rama IV—the name was changed to honour Prince Samphanthaong, King Rama I’s son who founded the temple. Surrounded by trees, and an old Thai-style wooden house, it offers a relaxed sanctuary a little off the beaten track. Continue your exploration into Chinatown’s past by strolling along Song Wat Road. Thanks to its many alleys (leading to piers) this road was once the centre for commercial maritime trade—connecting Bangkok, Chonburi, Ban Don, and Suratthani provinces, as well as many other ports, and facilitating the transportation of foods, herbs, and spices to the city. Today the street is lined with beautiful, nineteenth century buildings,

Song Wat Rd

Ratchawong Pier

1. Sampeng Lane Market 2. Double Dogs Tea Room 3. Easae 4. Wat Koh 5. Houses on Song Wat Rd

6. Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque 7. T&K Seafood 8. L&R Seafood 9. Shanghai Mansion

decorated with stucco in floral and fruit motifs, and anchored with Corinthian pillars. A little further on, you’ll pass Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque, which was built around 1895 by Muslim traders. Constructed in neoPalladian style, it’s reminiscent of villas in Northern Italy. The best time to experience the real Chinatown, however, is when dusk sets in and Yaowarat Rd turns into a huge food-centric thoroughfare, with hundreds of stalls taking up every available space. Favourites—for good reasons—include T&K Seafood and L&R Seafood restaurants, on the corner of Phadung Dao Road (Soi Texas). Both restaurants—the former in green and the latter clad in red—open in the late afternoon, and are always packed with locals and tourists alike, queuing up to taste their delicious seafood-centred dishes. While the hippest bars in this general area are found along Soi Nana—a short, four minute walk east from Yaowarat Rd—there is a cool option closer at hand where one can finish off a fun day in this district. Walk east along Yaowarat until you reach Shanghai Mansion Bangkok, a beautiful boutique hotel with an open-air bar called the Shanghai Terrace. From a vantage point overlooking energetic Yaowarat, this cool hangout turns into a laidback lounge from 7:30pm onwards with live jazz music every night except Mondays. M A RCH 2017 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Top: Mural painting at Wat Suwandararam, Ayutthaya; Above: Don Chedi War Memorial and Stupa, Suphanburi 38 | M A RCH 2017

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insight | SNAPSHOTS

On Understanding History

istory is much more than keeping careful records of how humans in the past have lived and acted. Understanding history is to figure out how we behaved and worked in groups. The purpose of history isn’t simply to present facts and figures, but to search for an interpretation of the past. Historians attempt to find patterns and establish meaning through the rigorous study of documents and artefacts left by people of other times and places. Ultimately, what we want is to stop repeating the painful and stupid mistakes. George Santayana, a Spanish philosopher and writer, wrote, “Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” It is certainly not that history repeats itself, but we who do. Interestingly, history is the discipline most concerned about understanding change. Historians not only seek to clarify historical causality—how and why change occurs within societies and cultures—but they also try to account for the endurance of tradition, understand the complex interplay between continuity and change, and explain the origins, evolution, and decline of institutions and ideas.

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

Eventually, history shows how little we have changed as human beings. History can be an extremely powerful tool. Besides names and dates, it doesn’t only make us understand about our past and heritage but also influences the choices we make in the present and the future. Historians may have their perspectives, agendas, and biases. History textbooks turn history to its advantage for patriotism. The past can be used in PR for propaganda and building nationalism. Among all nations, Thailand has also been built through actual histories and the myths surrounding us. The mythology about Thais’ uniqueness and greatness of the country has encouraged us to accept sacrifices today. Every story about our kingdoms through war and peace tells us about who we are as a race and what we are capable of with both our honourable and despicable aspects. Like in many countries, Thai history textbooks are sponsored by the government and are written to put the national heritage in the most favourable light. Academic historians often fight against the politicization of the textbooks, with or without success. As history can also be seen through different perspectives, either from the victorious or the defeated, one of the most interesting accounts in Thai history books is the elephant duel between King Naresuan and Crown Prince Mingyi Swa in 1593 during the Ayutthaya Period. What we learnt in most textbooks is that this epic battle took place in Nhong Sarai, Suphanburi, and we also learnt of its outcome. According to Prince Damrong Rajanubhab, the “Father of Thai History,” the scene was reconstructed as the war elephants of King Naresuan and Prince Ekathotsarot, his younger brother, were “in musth” and charged into the midst of the Burmese army. Only a handful of Siamese soldiers were able to follow them in and protect the embattling monarch. King Naresuan then dared Crown Prince Mingyi Swa into a formal duel in which the Ayutthayan

King killed the Burmese Prince with his glaive. After the war, King Naresuan had a stupa built as a victory monument at the battle ground and the Burmese didn’t bother to wage war again until the fall of Ayutthaya between 1765 and 1767. This became a highly romanticized historical scene known as Songkhram Yuddhahatthi or the “Elephant Battle” in many history books and blockbuster movies. However, most accounts of the era from either Siamese or foreign mention an elephant battle but not a formal duel. The Burmese chronicles do not remark this combat at all. According to European accounts, King Naresuan took advantage when Swa’s elephant was attacked by a Burmese war elephant that went musth. He closed in, fired a gun, and mortally wounded the crown prince. King Naresuan was seen as lucky to escape this very dangerous situation and win the battle. Although the triumph looms large in many Thai history books, this should be relegated to a legendary tale. So what may actually have happened can vary from different points of view. Through the eyes of others, we can develop a sense of context and coherence while recognizing complexity and ambiguity. Historical records don’t only present human achievements but also human failures, barbarity, and cruelty. History offers us rich, textured, and substantive context for understanding the human condition and grappling with moral questions and problems. History is vital in the quest for wisdom and virtue. Therefore, understanding the past is fundamental to understanding the present. History provides unique insight to human nature and civilization. The analysis and interpretation of history provide an essential context for evaluating contemporary institutions, politics, and cultures. Great politicians and military personnel study history so that they can conduct diplomacy with other countries and understand how others got to be who they are. History, thus, reflects the sense of our selves. M A RCH 2017 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

On the Night Joey Ramone Died

In this, the fourth and final excerpt from Jim Algie’s new book, we learn more about Edana, the Norwegian-born beauty who also happens to be the English teacher of our hero’s son. What will her passion, conviction, and intelligence— as well as obsession with genocide, extreme metal, and self-destruction—bring out in Lek, the former rock star turned pop producer, as he tries to restart his music career and deal with a mid-life catastrophe in the making. By Jim Algie

y the time Dee Dee’s class ended he was sitting on the black leather sofa in the living room—under the chandelier strung with models of Japanese film monsters and Hello Kitty dangling from a noose— switching between a subscriber’s copy of The New York Times (Did that make him look stuffy?) and The Selected Poems of Anne Sexton (Was that too literary for her?). As Dee Dee was showing her out, Lek said, “Hey professor, could I speak to you for a minute, please?” “Sure.” She sat down on the other black leather couch to his right. Lek offered her a cigarette. “I know I shouldn’t but I can’t help encouraging certain people to smoke. That way I’ll have a lot of cool company in the cancer ward.” She laughed and took the Black Devil. Lek leaned over to light it for her. The shadow of the flame leapt into her eyes. “Thank you.” “You’re welcome.” “What did you wanna speak to me about?” “Oh, nothing much. I’m just curious about my son’s level of English. I don’t hear him speak all that much around the house.” “He’s really good and his vocabulary is excellent. But he still has problems with the past tense and conditional clauses and phrasal verbs. Nothing we can’t sort out.”

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“That’s good to hear. So... you said you’ve lived all over the world. If you don’t mind me asking, like where?” “Well, it’s a long story, but when I was eighteen I moved to New York because my boyfriend played guitar in this industrial band called the Riot Act. Then I was teaching English in Prague for a year, and I worked as a rock critic and music writer in Amsterdam for a while, made jewelry in Osaka and traveled around Southeast Asia by myself for ten months. Then, when I was twenty-five, I was supposed to be the trophy wife for this corporate lawyer in LA. Like, he bought me a ten thousand dollar dress and I remember sitting in a five-star hotel, wearing the dress, really bored and waiting for him, when all I wanted to do was go out drinking with my friends in a scummy punk rock club. But you can’t wear a dress like that to clubs like those.” Lek knew she was blunt, but he hadn’t expected this torrent of personal details. Edana spilled some ashes on the glass coffee table, pulled a tissue out of her purse and wiped them up. He appreciated the effort. “What happened to the marriage?” “Long story short, my fiancé had this Persian cat that he really loved and one day she got out of the house and I couldn’t find her. So I looked all over the yard, on the street and—do you know who lived down the block in another mansion? Alice Cooper.”

Lek pushed his bangs back and grinned. “The king of shock rock. I used to worship Alice and still listen to his Greatest Hits album sometimes.” “I think the cat got into Alice Cooper’s estate. But you know, I wasn’t going to ring his front gate and say, ‘Hi, Alice. Killer is a great album. By the way, have you seen our cat?’” “Wise move. I suppose Alice was probably sacrificing the cat in a Satanic ritual.” Edana’s laughter bubbled up into her eyes like champagne. “So I lost the cat and that was the end of our marriage plans. I guess he loved Cleocatra more than me.” In her smile he caught a glint of something cold that suggested the relationship didn’t mean that much to her in the first place. Was that it or was it just a trick of the light? Or was he misreading her completely? Lek reached for another cigarette from Malaysia. The cloves perfumed the air and sweetened his lips. He looked at Edana. It was strange how she sat there with her thighs clamped together, her legs facing the coffee table, palms resting on either knee. Her head swiveled in his direction, but her body and hands didn’t move. She seemed so open yet her body language said exactly the opposite. In a skinny hand with twig-thin fingers (no rings on any of them he noticed) Edana picked up her black leather purse and put it on the table. “I hope this doesn’t seem rude or bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS unprofessional or anything.” She pulled a half-finished bottle of Thai sugarcane rum out of her purse. “But I’m finished working for the day and I don’t have any more classes until tomorrow afternoon. I’d never drink and work, you know. Could I have a glass, please? You can have some too if you want. Sorry it’s only the cheap stuff.” Lek picked up the bottle. “Sure, I’ll get you a glass. Any cola, soda, or ice?” “No, thanks. I always take my alcohol straight so that nothing dilutes the taste, and I don’t do sugar.” Lek went into the kitchen. He poured some rum into a glass for her. Without even thinking about it, he poured a shot into another glass, added some coke and ice cubes, stirred it up with an index finger and put the finger in his mouth. It was his first taste of alcohol in more than five years. His stomach buckled. He closed his eyes and rubbed his forehead. For a few dizzying seconds he thought he was going to throw up. This was wrong. He had to throw the drink down the drain. One glass wouldn’t be too bad. It was mostly coke, hardly any rum in it.

Bizarre

Thailand

Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). The photo above is from Jim’s last tour of musical duty in Europe with his band the Asexuals, and was used on the 2001 album “Greater Than Later.” bangkok101.com

Lek picked up the two glasses and went back to the living room. He handed the glass to Edana. She smiled at him for the thirtieth time—did she smile at everybody like this?—and said, “Cheers. I like your T-shirt. Cannibal Corpse is one of my favorite bands.” Lek’s eyebrows reached for his hairline. “Really? You like death metal?” She had to be joking. “Yeah-ahh, the Corpse rocks!” Now she sounded like a total LA girl. “I started listening to them when I was nine or ten. That’s one good thing about Norway. We have really good scenes for death metal and black metal. Is that what you play? Dee Dee said you’re a famous musician in Thailand.” “I’ve sold about ten million albums here, I guess, and many more millions in pirated copies I didn’t sell, but I’ve had songwriter’s block, or just ran out of material and ideas quite a few years ago. To answer your question, no, my music was based more on sixties pop, seventies punk and hard rock, and Motown, country and rockabilly—mostly American and British folk influences—that I sort of patched together into my own sound. I only got into death metal when I was going through my first divorce and drinking a

lot and doing too many drugs. I went to Cambodia for a while and thought I’d write some songs about the genocide and the Killing Fields that would be a lot heavier than—” “Oh, I visited the Killing Fields at least ten times when I lived in Phnom Penh.” Lek didn’t like being interrupted. He gave her a sharp glance intended as a warning sign. Edana didn’t seem to notice it and kept jabbering. Her eyes were glowing like blue candles on a birthday cake. Even so, her body didn’t move. Her thighs were still clamped together. Her voice got louder, but her hands remained on her knees. “Yeah, but you know where I wanna go now? They found this other secret prison that the Khmer Rouge had where about thirty thousand people were tortured and executed. That’s twice as many as Tuol Sleng in Phnom Penh.” “I’ve been there, the high schoolturned-torture center, and tried and failed to write a decent song about it. If you don’t mind me asking, what’s your interest in all of this?” For once, Edana looked coy and evasive. She took another drink. Without asking she reached for one of his cigarettes. Were they already on such familiar terms?

Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died, is now available from www.amazon.com in print or as an e-book. It combines rock ‘n’ punk history and debauchery, with doses of autobiography from his own musical career, in a pair of interlinked novellas that chart the highs and lows of a Thai rock star’s career as he approaches middle age, faces his own mortality and tries to balance his work and family life. The settings range from recording studios in Bangkok to gigs in New York and drug parties on tour, with scenes that details the difficulties of songwriting, keeping a band together and staying on top in a cutthroat business that causes many stars to come crashing down to earth and hitting rock bottom. See www.jimalgie.club for a full rundown. M A RCH 2017 | 41

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

Jazz Wednesdays

Once a week musicians gather at Smalls to explore sonic space Words by Joe Cummings/CPA Media Photos by David Jacobson

n a city overflowing with corporate-owned, flimsily themed nightspots, independently owned Smalls stands out from the crowd. Holding court on a neon-drenched corner of Soi Suan Phlu for over two years now, the eccentrically decorated, three-story bar has steadily built a reputation as the place to be if you’re not particularly drawn by ladies’ night, models night, girls on swings, a hundred brands of craft beer, and other marketing gimmicks. Where other bars focus on elaborately-fashioned mixology, Smalls takes pride in its hand-carried selection of bourbons, served with a minimum of fuss by efficient and personable Canadian barman Danny Yeung. Spirits are dispensed in stout New York-style 42 | M A RCH 2017

45-cl servings rather than the wimpy European 30-cl pour. Absinthe isn’t just a flavouring for obscurely named drinks; it’s served with the proper utensils and fountain. Meanwhile the kitchen serves everything from salads to burgers until the bar doors close well after midnight. The bar nearly doubled in size last year when walls were knocked down to access an adjacent vintage shophouse, making more room to showcase Smalls’ extensive permanent collection of local and international artwork. Smalls doesn’t host exhibitions, nor is art accepted on concession. Every piece is purchased directly from the artists. A similar purism applies to the music policy. When David

Jacobson—the American who kicked off the once-flourishing Sukhumvit 11 club scene when he opened Q Bar in 1999—left the dance-club world behind to join forces with French partner Bruno Tanquerel to establish Smalls, one of the first things they focused on was an independent, non-commercial music policy. “Our music doesn’t pander to lowest-common-denominator trends,” says Jacobson. “Our house DJs—Scott Hess on Thursday, Mike Ailin on Friday, and Justin Mills on Saturday—are professionals who we work with because we trust their taste. They’re in charge of their material and encouraged to be as eclectic as possible.” On nights when there’s no DJ at the podium, Jacobson airs his own bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS

playlist that is comprised mostly of jazz, with occasional RnB tracks. The selection avoids moldy jazz standards, instead offering compositions that Jacobson, a native New Yorker who grew up around the avant-garde jazz greats of the 60s and 70s, is still passionate about. There’s probably not another bar in Bangkok, including so-called jazz venues, where you’ll hear Eric Dolphy or Archie Shepp. A few months after it opened, Smalls took the radical step of inviting live jazz ensembles to perform every Wednesday night. Sparsely attended

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

when it first started, the Wednesday jazz night has evolved into one of the bar’s biggest weekly draws. In fact, it’s probably safe to say that there’s nowhere else in town, including dedicated jazz venues, where jazz makes a bigger splash than at Smalls on Wednesdays. “Our idea from the start was to seek out only extremely advanced jazz musicians,” says Jacobson, “who don’t perform standards but rather improvise freely at the highest level. That’s the whole idea.” Wednesday nights are in fact more of a jazz loft, in the 1960s New York City tradition, in which a rotating roster of musicians meet to explore sonic space. Three looseknit ensembles alternate week to week: Quince Factory, led by Thai saxophonist and jazz educator Pisut Pratheepasena; the Pong Nakornchai Quartet helmed by effervescent drummer Pong Nakornchai; and Stella Space. Twice a month, American guitarist Dan Philips—called “one of the most original guitarists and composers currently on the jazz scene” by www.allaboutjazz.com— holds forth with his own quartet. Phillips recently returned from a lengthy sojourn in Chicago, where his US band Chicago Edge Ensemble recorded the well-received album Decaying Orbit (2017). “David lets me play what I want,” explains Philips, “which in my case is sometimes freely improvised music. Most clubs in Bangkok are commercial only in orientation and don’t consider music an art form.”

Guest artists, both local and international, bring plenty of surprises. One of the most popular regular guests is Danish saxophonist Jakob Dinesen, who has performed with many world-renowned musicians. Easily the most versatile of the Smalls visitors, Dinesen is as comfortable with soulful RnB ballads as he is with bebop and free jazz. A recent Wednesday night saw Hong Kong veterans Bernard and Chris Carpio (brothers) sitting in on saxophone and piano. “David has been with a lot of my heroes in the so-called free music scene,” Dinesen remarks. “His great stories always inspire me to go on stage and channel those spirits in his beautiful venue. It’s the only place in Bangkok that encourages musicians to play abstract, to go for the unknown, the subconscious truth within us. The artsy decor and openminded crowd makes for one of the most inspiring places to create music in Southeast Asia.” None of the three regular bands sounds like the others, and in fact the free jazz orientation means that no two Wednesday nights sound even remotely the same. This is no doubt why there’re so many regulars among the audience every week. Smalls’ jazz nights assure you that, as long as you like your music wild and spontaneous, you’ll never be bored. Each Wednesday is another leg on a long and challenging journey, replete with steep descents, hairpin turns, off-highway navigation, and nearbreakdowns. M A RCH 2017 | 43

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Female Grooming

hether in formal fabric or spaghetti straps, Thai women remain among the best-groomed people on earth. Visitors marvel at how prettily they frame their typical blessings of smooth skin, fine features, petite figure and lustrous hair. Even the poorest look spotless. All maintain immaculate hair—from matronly bun or practical bob, to long, shampoocommercial locks. In this social hierarchy, style starts at the top. And the top part of top people is the hair helmet. Few Thai things mesmerize the foreigner more than khunying hair. Experts dispute its origins, though as star hairdresser Somsak Chalachol declares: “We’re among Asia’s best in phom klao (gathered-up hair). We’re very meticulous. We’ve benefited from a relatively solid hair-dressing culture.” Solid hair-dos indeed appear in temple murals with the long tresses of male and female royalty plumed up through narrow coronets. Underlying phom klao is the sacredness of the head. Raising the hair’s height implies superior qualities. Thus long-haired women often sculpt a lacquered frontal ‘swan flick’. As important as hairspray is white make-up. Paleness raises status. Keeping out of the sun is vital, and Thais spend 1 billion baht annually on skin whitening products, even for armpit and genital bleaching. Typically advertised by half-Western or Chinese models, these can at best only restore the skin’s natural shade, and some can be poisonous. To look truly pale requires powder. Lots of it. Thus women of all ranks may smear their faces with talc or with nam ob, perfumed lotions (like Mong Leya or Quina brands) containing dinsor phong, a white clay from Lopburi now used in Thai spa therapies. It both heals and cools. Meanwhile, Thailand has become a world centre for cosmetic surgery, and not just for anti-ageing. Countless aesthetic clinics meet the demand for a narrower faranglength nose with a bridge, or eyelids with a fold.

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 4 4 | M A RCH 2017

In clothing, conventions went further, since the state played stylist. Around World War II, the Phibunsongkhram regime tried to replace Thai jongkraben (sarong leg-wrap) and uncovered shoulders with skirt-suits, hats, and shoes, until Queen Sirikit commissioned couturier Pierre Balmain to create seven national costume designs in the 1960s that remain stunning templates for day and evening wear today. Simplified for everyday wear, and with a higher hem to save cost, this glamorous costume has morphed into a suit of silk armour for businesswomen since the shoulder-padded 1980s profile. Many who were raised under Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram’s draconian ‘cultural mandates’ still adhere to his conviction that dress is a matter of national security. His rules of Thainess amplified King Chulalongkorn’s idea that appearing siwilai (civilized) could defend against the colonialists’ justification of conquering supposedly ‘uncivilized’ peoples. Senior ladies should be sa ngaa ngam (gracious, elegant) and young women are expected to rak suay rak ngam (love to be pretty). Controversy comes when women choose to be sexy. As in the West during pop’s early decades, blaming the clothes becomes a way of blaming the youth. While the media promotes imported labels without questioning how hi-so women pay such prices, youngsters get condemned for prostituting themselves to afford the same brands. Contradictions abound. Young women are now encouraged to be modern, but scolded when they’re up to the minute. The government wants Bangkok to rival Milan as a fashion city, but cracks down on the very fashion features—like bare shoulders and cleavage—that are integral to the international catwalk elite that Thailand seeks to join. The official tone implies a return to past standards of Thainess. It more closely resembles bourgeois primness, which the West initiated when it went through the industrial and social changes that Thailand’s now experiencing.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Ruang Pharot Racha

Faculty of Architecture

Maha Chulalongkorn and Auditorium

Faculty of Architecture

Chulalongkorn University Thailand’s most prestigious centre for higher learning also boasts an immaculate campus—home to important historical buildings, museums, exhibition spaces, and a beautiful park Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

s it is located in the centre of town—making the connection between the Silom area and Pathumwan/ Rachaprasong district—you might have passed many times along the gates of Chulalongkorn University without daring to enter into the compound. But fear not, as it is an amazing world of parks, gardens, historical buildings, and cultural institutions open to all. It is also, for many, a welcome rest between two shopping mall visits. At times

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it’s difficult to believe the serene atmosphere of the place which is, in fact, home to almost 40,000 students as well as 8,000 professors, assistants and administrative staff. Chulalongkorn University was officially created in 1917 under its current name by King Vajiravudh. In the beginning, four faculties and schools were merged to create the university. The oldest structures evoke Thai and Khmer temples, but details reveal a more subtle mix of Thai and European architectural

influences. The Maha Chulalongkorn Building is the oldest structure, and was built prior to the establishment of the university. It was designed and conceived by British architect Edward Healey with the support of German engineer and architect Karl Döhring. The Briton was a specialist in blending Western and Thai design to create unique structures, expressing a new “Thainess”, very much en vogue during the time of King Rama VI. The 1915 construction has a European layout, but its gables and bas-reliefs bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS reflect Thai temples while windows decorating the top of the building bear a definitive European character. The structure served first as the School of Civil Servants. Its counterpart is the Maha Vajiravudh Building, completed in 1919. Both buildings are facing the University Auditorium, a majestic white structure emulating both buildings which form today the faculty of art. Completed in 1939 by two Siamese architects—U Laphanon and Sarot Sukkayang—the auditorium bears a distinctive Thai style with its Siamese gables and stucco in Sukhothai style. The prestigious ensemble is open to all and serves today as a venue for official events, concerts, art exhibitions, or to welcome VIPs. It also is a wonderful backdrop for pictures, especially with its blossoming frangipani trees and shady garden. Architecture enthusiasts will find that the Chulalongkorn campus is a true laboratory of all kinds of architectural styles. One fine example is the 1925 Chamchuri 5 Administration Building. Facing the university field and the auditorium, this neo-classical building

(which is home to the university administration) evokes a US-style campus structure with its arcades. Meanwhile, just north of the administration building is a lovely pavilion in a so-called Colonial Style— built in a mode that is reminiscent of the US Ambassador’s residence, with influences of art deco. In addition, the two-storey Ruang Pharot Racha used to be a residence for university administrators, then a residence for foreign guests, but is now used for studies of Thai culture. It is surrounded by beautiful rain trees. Crossing back to the university field from Phaya Thai Road, you’ll find the entrance for the university’s Faculty of Architecture, fashioned in a modern, late Art Deco monumental architecture-style, as adopted by the government of Field Marshal Phibul Songram (the structure was completed in 1940). Next to it, the new Art and Culture Building—originally the chemistry building—is one of the last structures designed by a European architect. Its Bauhaus inspired style, with its minimalist lines, is the work of Italian architect Ercole Manfredi. Next to it is the modern CU Museum, which

shows students art pieces as well as high-tech exhibitions. The Faculties of Architecture and Fine & Applied Arts also have their own exhibition spaces. But to find a truly unusual museum, seek out the Museum Of Human Body, which is housed inside the Faculty of Dentistry. Here you’ll find exhibits of skeletons and of 14 dissected human bodies from Japan. Another remarkable structure, one of the few remaining from the 1960s, is the Sala Phra Kieo, built in 1966 by Thai architects Vodhyakarn Varavarn and Lert Urasayananda. Created to be used as an auditorium, it is shaped as a modernist answer to the traditional Thai sala. The assembly hall is spectacular and is crowned by gables, and the building itself hosts exhibitions, conferences, and has also a book centre.

Chulalongkorn University 254 Phayatthai Rd. Open daily: 8am-9pm (most galleries till 4:30pm) Tel: 02 153 555 www.chula.ac.th

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Sala Phra Kleo

Faculty of Architecture

Ruang Pharot Racha M A RCH 2017 | 47

TRAVEL |

The elegant royal waiting room building at Hua Hinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic train stationstation the historic Hua Hin railway 4 8 | M A RCH 2017

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| TRAVEL

HUA HIN 101 L

ocated just a three-hour drive from Bangkok, Hua Hin has—for a long time now—been a go-to getaway spot for city dwellers seeking beachfront bliss. If you prefer not worrying about ferry crossings or airport hassles, and you shun the casino atmosphere of nearby Pattaya, then this sleepy seaside city might be just what you’re after. Although Hua Hin was a thriving fishing village for many generations, around 1911 Prince Nares ordered the creation of a royal residence here called SAEN SAMRAN. Soon the area became a hotbed for high-class construction, as Bangkok’s wealthy class began to build bungalows along the beach. In turn, Hua Hin became Thailand’s first true resort town. In 1923, in neighbouring Cha-Am, the golden teakwood MRIGADAYAVAN PALACE was built, and when KLAI KANGWON ROYAL PALACE—HM the King’s summer residence—was completed during the reign of King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) in 1933, Hua Hin’s status as a “royal retreat” was firmly cemented in place. The town that grew up around these noble landmarks continues to attract both holiday makers and (more recently) property investors. For the frugal-minded, many small and medium-sized low-cost guesthouses can be found scattered throughout the downtown core. Meanwhile, the many captivating boutique hotels—such as the elegant DEVASOM HUA HIN RESORT, or the Morrocan-themed MARRAKESH HUA HIN RESORT—offer charming romantic getaways, while the grand luxury hotels—such as the WORA BURA HUA HIN RESORT & SPA and the INTERCONTINENTAL HUA HIN RESORT—offer swaths of pristine beachfront and all the amenities one can dream of. The area has also become a booming locale for housing and condo developments, especially in the hills to the West of the main highway. Retirees—especially expats from Northern European countries—have certainly staked their claim in Hua Hin, and many own homes and businesses here. But that’s not to say that the town is a sleepy seniors’ village with ocean views. In fact, the burgeoning art and café scene is full of creative young Thai entrepreneurs, many of whom have set up shop here to escape the rat race in Bangkok (where the rats are real!). In addition, the number of funky beach clubs has grown—last year the HYATT REGENCY HUA HIN unveiled its sister venue, THE WAVE BEACH CLUB—and for beer lovers the long-standing HUA HIN BREWING COMPANY operates a marvelous pub and micro-brewery (on the ground floor of the HILTON HUA HIN RESORT & SPA). Of course, for vacationers this part of Thailand will always be an easyaccess destination offering sun, sea, sand, and mountains of seafood— especially at the lively HUA HIN NIGHT MARKET that runs every day from 5pm till approximately 11pm. Add to that numerous golf courses, familyfriendly attractions, and restaurants to suit every taste, and it’s easy to see why Hua Hin is such a fail-safe for hassle-free holidays.

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TRAVEL | focus on hua hin

Historic Hua Hin

isitors arriving in Hua Hin by train disembark on a picturesque platform that is home to the iconic royal waiting room (see photo pg. 48), which was moved from Sanam Chan Palace in Nakhon Pathom to its current resting place. In many ways, arriving by train provides the ideal introduction to historic Hua Hin, as this retro railway station recalls the days when the biggest traffic jams in village known as Samor Rieng, or “anchor row,” were caused by the fleet of fishermen’s boats in the harbour. In 1911, while the southern train line to Malaysia was still being built, the railway station opened in the freshly renamed city of Hua Hin (translation: “stone head”). The Royal Siamese Railways (RSR) saw potential for development—what with the area’s soft white sands and gently rolling hills—and in the 1920s the RSR directed an Italian architect named A. Rigazzi to build the Railway Hotel. It consisted of two stories of brick and wood, with a mere 14 rooms, a lounge, a bar, a billiards room, and a restaurant. Decades later, the property was featured in the 1975 film The Killing Fields (doubling for a colonial building in Phnom Penh). Later, in 1986, the State Railway of Thailand granted the Central Group of Hotels and Accor the rights to the property, beginning a period of careful restoration that would reshape and update the resort. Nowadays it operates as the exquisite Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin (see story on pg 59). Another link to the past can be found in the two royal residences on the outskirts of town. Completed in 1933, Klai Kangwon Royal Palace—HM the King’s summer residence— shows clear European influence, as do most Thai palaces of that era. The main residence, called Phra Tamnak Piem Suk, would not be out of place on the Mediterranean coast, with its Roman colonnade,

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flat-tiled Spanish roof, and elegant gardens. By contrast Mrigadayavan Palace (pictured), in neighbouring Cha-Am, was designed primarily by King Rama VI, who used golden teakwood from his Chao Samran Palace to finish the project. Completed in 1923, it features a long covered walkway extending to the sea, and breezy living and drawing rooms. Unlike Klai Kangwon visitors can stroll through the grounds of this colourful, well-manicured seaside estate—adult admission is B30—and visit the museum rooms on the upper floor of the interconnected pavilions. Open every day, except Wednesdays, from 8am to 4pm (5pm on weekends).

VINTAGE VILLAGE PLEARNWAN: The term plearnwan translates to “enjoy yesteryear”, and this 3-level enclave of replica wooden village shops and buildings—built in 2009 and dubbed Thailand’s first ‘Eco Vintage Market’—is certainly easy to “enjoy”. It’s a fantastic place to do a bit of one-of-a-kind clothing and souvenir shopping, but there’s also weekend classic film screenings, retro carnival games, and a Ferris wheel for the kids. For diners there’s lots on offer, ranging from noodle soup and other Thai classics, to designer ice cream and gelato. There’s even a 60s inspired lounge dedicated to Thai whiskey, and small boutique hotel rooms on the upperdeck of the second zone should you want to extend your stay (www.pimanplearnwan.com). Plearnwan: Phetkasem Rd, between Soi 38 & 40 Open daily: Fri-Sat, 9am-10pm, Sun-Thu, 9am-9pm

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focus on hua hin | TRAVEL

What to See, What to Do Hua Hin offers plenty of outdoor activities aside from the beach

Vana Nava Hua Hin

WATERPARKS: Although there’s no shortage of water along the undulating coastline of Hua Hin, those seeking the kind of wet and wild excitement that waterparks offer are in luck as this region is home to several. Vana Nava Hua Hin (www.vananavahuahin.com) is the newest of the bunch—opened in 2014—and offers 19 exciting rides and slides, including The Abyss, the largest slide in Thailand. By contrast the Black Mountain Waterpark (www. blackmountainwaterpark.com)—opened in 2011—offers 9 different slides, as well as a spectacular wave pool, a lazy river ride, and more. Finally, the long-running Greekthemed Santorini Park in neighbouring Cha-Am (www. santoriniparkchaam.com), offers waterslides, as well as an art and culture park, and family-friendly carnival rides.

SPORTS: From February to May, Hua Hin is ideal for kitesurfing, and the folks at Hua Hin Kitesurfing—a branch of KiteBoardingAsia (KBA)—insist that anyone can easily learn. Package prices start at B4,000 for a day-long introductory lesson with one of the school’s instructors, and go as high as B43,000 for a 14-night holiday package, including nine days of kitesurfing lessons. Visit www. huahinkitesurfing.com for more information. Meanwhile, away from the waves, Hua Hin Bike Tours offers amazing day and evening mountain bike excursions. Travel along the ‘Royal Coast’, visit Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, drop in on the Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, or cycle all the way to the Myanmar border (spoiler alert: it’s just 12 km away). Check out www.huahinbiketours.com to find out more.

Hua Hin Bike Tours

Black Mountain Golf Resort

SHOPPING: Although the Hua Hin Night Market is a notto-be-missed attraction in town, the Cicada Market—which opened in 2010—is an equally enticing venue. Created as a place for artists, creators, and designers to exhibit their wares, the market is open every Friday and Saturday from 4pm to 11pm, and on Sundays till 10pm. Located on Khao Takieb-Hua Hin Road (or Hua Hin 87, at the entrance to the Hyatt Regency Hotel), the entire market area features an abundance of shopping outlets and eateries, as well as a venue for live performances and art exhibitions. Admission to the market and all performances or exhibitions is free. www.cicadamarket.com

GOLF: If golf is your game then visiting the links in and around Hua Hin will keep you occupied for quite some time. There are many courses here, with some of the more prominent ones being the Black Mountain Golf Resort, the Royal Hua Hin Golf Club, the Banyan Golf Club Hua Hin, and the Majestic Creek Golf Club & Resort. If you are interested in organized golf packages, why not contact Hua Hin Golf Tours (www.huahingolf.com). Founded in 1992, it remains Thailand’s first registered golf tour company.

Cicada Market

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TRAVEL | shopping in hua hin

Beachwear & More

Seaside shopping made simple at the BLÚPORT Hua Hin Resort Mall

he recently opened BLÚPORT Hua Hin Resort Mall is a unique shopping complex and department store, built with a mix of inspirations and ideas from the world’s best-loved resort towns—from the legendary Mediterranean charm of the Cannes boardwalk, to the undying appeal of Lake Como, in Italy. BLÚPORT boasts an impressive 140,000 sq.m of space, with 25,000 sq.m allocated equally to international retail shops, a department store, gourmet market, a cinema complex, and more. The shops themselves deliver over 1,000 top brand names in fashion, beauty, lifestyle, and IT. On

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the first floor you can shop till you drop at the Beauty & Fashion Port, with names like H&M, Uniqlo, and Chanel all on display, or find all your beachfront wardrobe needs at Beach Story, where searching for seaside apparel is a breeze. Fashion victims will also not want to miss the Port Walk, on B level, an eclectic seaside shopping village with over 200 shops. There are also dozens and dozens of fine dining options available, including Peppina, Wine Connection, Coca, and the You Hunt We Cook counter in the Gourmet Market. And fans of food trucks will want to visit the indoor area dedicated to “meals-on-wheels” with names such

as Torakku Ramen & Curry, Nom More Café, and The Bubbles. Finally, families will love Whaley Port, the first interactive underwater world-themed park in Thailand, where kids of all ages can jump into the endless fun with various activities in 3 zones: Interactive Port, Play Port and Game Port.

BLÚPORT Hua Hin Resort Mall

Petchkasem Rd. (b/w Sois 100 and 102) Open: Mon-Fri, 10:30am-10pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-10pm Tel: 03 290 5111 www.bluporthuahin.com bangkok101.com

TRAVEL | out and about in hua hin

Eat Your Heart Out Feast Thailand takes food tours to the next level Words by Bruce Scott Photos by Julia Offenberger

would order again on your own. It’s about good flavours, but also about educating travellers about Thai food.” The company offers a number of specialized excursions (information about each is available on the company’s very informative website), but a good place to start is the Foodies Food Tour, which is priced at a very reasonable B1,500 per person. The tour begins with a traditional Thai breakfast before moving on to a guided tour through Hua Hin’s famous 100 year-old Chat Chai wet market, where guests can graze a bit—sampling food that is cooked or prepared fresh. The package also includes an early dtam sang (à la carte) lunch, a chance to make your own som tam (papaya salad), and several other surprises along the way. Apart from the food, there are lots of other nice touches that are covered by the fee, including pick-up and drop off from your hotel (as long as it’s in the Hua Hin area), an English speaking guide, and a survival kit which includes a map of the tour itself, two plastic spoons, and

nterprising tourists with a “taste” for adventure inevitably want to “eat like a local” at some point whenever they visit a new place. In Hua Hin there is actually a food tour called Eat Like a Local, and it’s just one of the several innovative dine and discover tours operated by Feast Thailand Food Tours. The company, which only began operations in September of 2016, was started up by Leigh Higgins and her husband. The pair moved to Thailand from Melbourne last May, and they chose Hua Hin as a location for a number of reasons—mainly because in the 25 years they’ve been visiting Thailand on and off they’ve grown to like this particular town, but also because there’s already plenty of food tour companies operating in Bangkok but no one doing this same sort of thing in Hua Hin. “The premise for our food tours is about showing people some things they may know, but also introducing travellers to dishes they don’t know,” Leigh points out. “It’s not about the weird and wacky, but food you 54 | M A RCH 2017

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out and about in hua hin | TRAVEL

one wooden skewer—and these utensils come in handy when sampling nibbles in the wet market. As our group assembles itself one sunny Sunday morning, we are first introduced to Kate, who will be our English speaking Thai guide. After a breakfast of rice porridge, patongo (fried dough) with pandan custard, and a fortifying café boran (Thai roasted coffee with condensed milk) we set off to explore Chat Chai market, where every imaginable sight—and smell—is part of the experience. In our group of six there are no actual tourists (surprisingly). Instead we are a mix of expats, ranging from relative newbies—just over a year living in Thailand—to one fellow who’s been here 16 years. However, all of us come away from the market experience learning something new; whether it’s how to prepare mieng kham (a sweet and spicy Thai snack wrapped in a betel leaf), or how many toppings other than mango can be added to sticky rice, or how khao chae (rice soaked in cool fragrant water) is prepared and consumed. The tour includes a bit of walking between all that eating, which is good, and concludes with a stroll up Naeb Kehardt Rd (see our related story on pg. 58). Here we sample the dtam sang lunch—in our case a delicious trio of chicken soup, shrimp curry, and spicy minced pork with basil—before moving on to some succulent braised duck in fragrant spices at Ratama restaurant. Our 3.5 hour tour concludes with a full-on midday meal at Baan Thong Kam, complete with homemade som tam (we helped make it), a few more meat salads, sticky rice, and a glass of bright purple peaberry drink. In total we must have sampled over two dozen different items since our outing began, and we are all stuffed to the gills. bangkok101.com

It’s been an excellent day out, and as Leigh rejoins our tour near its conclusion I ask her about how she chooses the restaurants and food stalls featured in her various packages. “This aspect is critical,” she admits. “It’s not only about finding restaurants or vendors that have great tasting food, but that food needs to be consistently good, and the standards have to be high when it comes to food preparation and hygiene. We tasted and visited every place several times, talked to the owners, and looked at how they operated. Our Thai staff were also crucial in this decision making process as well, as they also would only eat where it’s tasty and prepared fresh.” For more info call 03 251 0207. www.feastthailand.com M A RCH 2017 | 55

TRAVEL | made in thailand

Head For the Hills!

Superb wine and food pairing menus at Monsoon Valley Vineyard

f you’re serious about wine you might roll your eyes at the mere thought of a winery in Thailand but, as the old saying goes, “don’t knock it, till ya try it!” That bit of sage advice couldn’t be truer when it comes to visiting the Monsoon Valley Vineyard. In fact, renowned wine critic Robert Parker remarked that the 2008 Monsoon Valley Columbard “had a resemblance to the wonderful Colombard that used to be made in Napa Valley by the owners of Chalone”. Built on a former elephant corral, this valley vineyard sits roughly 150 metres above sea level, protected from some of the harsher extremes of the Thai weather. The soil type mixes sandy loam with slate, making it perfect for planting Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Muscat, and the aforementioned Colombard. This geographical region is on the 13th latitude, which classifies the vineyard’s output as ‘New Latitude’ 56 | M A RCH 2017

wine—a combination of the New and the Old World, accentuated with an exotic touch. The first planting dates back to December 2004, and the area used for cultivation has increased year by year. Currently there are 300 rai (100 acres) given over to planting, and the grapes grown here are processed in nearby Samut Sakorn province at the Siam Winery—founded in 1986 by Chalerm Yoovidhya (the man behind Red Bull)—where German-born winemaker Kathrin Puff (pictured) oversees the production of Monsoon Valley wines, the label used by Siam Winery for their premium vinos. Visiting Monsoon Valley Vineyard (as of March 1st the name has been changed from Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, to avoid confusion) is a wonderful daytime excursion if you are in the Hua Hin area. Visitors who make the journey—it’s about 45 km west of downtown Hua Hin—can explore the

vineyard by jeep (2 tours per day), by mountain bike (30 minutes for B100, or B150 for an hour), or on the back of an elephant (B300 for 15 minutes, or B500 for a half-hour). But tour or no tour, it’s worth the trip just to experience the fabulous food and extraordinary views on offer at The Sala Wine Bar & Bistro, where an elevated, outdoor, bangkok101.com

made in thailand | TRAVEL wraparound terrace overlooks the broad expanse of mountain and valley. There’s lots to choose from on the menu, but indulging in one of the expertly curated food and wine paired tasting sets is a wise move. There are four such tasting sets to choose from, ranging in price from B400 for the Sweet Wine Tasting Set, to B1,730 for the Grand Tasting Set. Among the many highlights was the chilled crabmeat and apple timbale, paired with a faultless 2016 Monsoon Valley Colombard (the vineyard’s best-seller), notable for its hints of green apple and gooseberry. We were also impressed by the 2012

Cuvée de Siam Blanc, a 50-50 Chenin Blanc and Colombard mix with amazing golden-yellow colouring, and hints of honey and almond (which paired beautifully with the foie gras terrine). This vintage is one of the winery’s premium flagship range offerings, denoted by the black tiger on the label. Fans of fruity wine will love the 2015 Monsoon Valley White Shiraz, which has an easily discernable strawberry backbone, offset by a little cracked pepper. It makes a great seafood mate, and in this case paired well with the lobster and red curry. Other highlights included the 2015 Monsoon Valley Shiraz, which beautifully complimented the lovely smoked duck breast, while the 2011 Cuvée de Siam Rouge—another of the black tiger label premium vintages— perfectly partnered with a juicy cocao accented roasted lamb chop. Finally, the 2016 Monsoon Valley Muscat, served with a tiramisu parfait dessert, capped the meal off beautifully. We also snagged a couple of not-on-the-tasting-set-menu specials, beginning with a taste of the captivating Monsoon Valley Blanc de Blancs Brut, a dry sparkling wine with toasty oak character that made the accompanying lemongrass tuna tartare all the more enjoyable. The other sneaky sip was the impressive 2016 Monsoon Valley Sangiovese Rose—a wine style I’ve never actually tried before. Paired with twin slices of seared black pepper tuna, it was a lovely introduction to a new best friend. NOTE: On Saturday March 11th there will be a special Harvest Dinner celebration. The event runs from 4pm to 9:30pm, and includes a delicious 4-course pairing dinner with awardwinning Monsoon Valley wines. Tickets are B3,500 net, and a round-trip transfer is just B300 per person (see pg. 107 for more details). by Bruce Scott

Monsoon Valley Vineyard

1, Moo 9, Baan Khork Chang Patana Tel: 081 701 0222, 081 701 0444 Open daily: 9am-6:30pm (8pm Nov-Mar) www.monsoonvalley.com bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on hua hin

Hipster Hua Hin

Naeb Kehardt’s bistros, cafés, and galleries attract trendier tourists and 31 Burger (left) serves up affordable beef burgers. For imbibers the newly opened Dune Hotel’s stylish bar and restaurant offers a wideranging menu, as well as plenty of drink specials, while the Wine House Bar & Bistro specializes, not surprisingly, in wine. But if you’re after a casual outdoor setting overlooking the waves, take the Soi 51 side street that leads to Coco 51 and enjoy a couple of sundowners in the fresh briny air. Directly across the laneway from Coco 51 is the Green Gallery Boutique Hotel, where individually artist-designed rooms are set inside a classic teakwood bungalow separated into three zones. The property also maintains a restaurant and an art gallery, much like the nearby Chub Cheeva, located back on the main road. Here diners can choose from a menu that includes Thai dishes, sweet drinks, and desserts, while enjoying the eclectically decorated outdoor courtyard and funky artworks in the adjacent gallery. Oceanside Beach Club & Restaurant

ust north of Hua Hin’s most heavily touristed area, Naeb Kehardt road—which runs exactly parallel to the beach—is where a somewhat younger crowd congregates. You could say it’s the cool kids’ street, and the nucleus of the town’s teens and trend-setters. The street is anchored by two hotel properties— the Chinese-style Baan Talay Chine Resort at the northernmost end of the street, and the sleek and chic Putahracsa Hua Hin at the other (the Putahracsa having the added draw of the Oceanside Beach Club & Restaurant, which serves a spectacular Sunday brunch overlooking the ocean). In-between these two landmarks java junkies can check in at any one of the numerous coffee shops, including Velo Café, run by young baristas who are also bicycle enthusiasts, the Hua Hin Town Café, and Icy Beans, which veers more towards the iced coffee spectrum. For sweet treats try Eighteen Below, an artisanal ice cream shop that also doles out super-rich cakes and brownies, or drop in on the newly opened White Home Café which has a bit of everything (sweets, teas, coffees, and more). For proper dining, Mooz offers traditional Thai as well as Halal dishes, Ob-Oon is a “boulangerie et patisserie”, 58 | M A RCH 2017

TWO BEDS AND A COFFEE MACHINE If you’re wandering the side streets in and around Naeb Kehardt Rd, seek out Two Beds and a Coffee Machine (on Hua Hin Soi 43), a tiny but tantalizing coffee shop specializing in single origin roasts from Mae Jam, a mountain in Thailand’s Lampang province. Nanthawit ‘Kao’ Sonoma is one of two co-owners, and he labours lovingly over every latte (or cappuccino, or whatever you order). His cozy café is named after a song by the band Savage Garden, and is easily recognizable from the street by the bright red London call box plunked out front. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. Tel: 081 952 1811.

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where to dine hua hin | TRAVEL

Atmospheric Dining

First-class produce with old-world seasoning at the Centara Grand

ua Hin reminds me of an old black-and-white photograph. A little frayed around the edges, it depicts an idyllic seaside resort, grandiose architecture, and Thailand’s nobility arriving by train. Of course, Hua Hin nowadays is far removed from its aristocratic roots, but upon arriving at the elegant Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin, it felt as if I had taken a ride into another era. The resort originally opened in the early 1920s as the Railway Hotel, when the new train line to Malaysia transformed Hua Hin into Thailand’s first beach resort destination. Since then, it has been extended and renovated, but its old world feel has been retained—highlighted by colonial-style architecture, landscaped gardens, and plenty of teakwood furnishings. Complemented by state-of-the-art facilities, and prime location, its popularity is not surprising. For those not staying at the resort, visiting its various dining outlets—open to everyone—offers a similar experience. Beach lovers will feel right at home at Centara Grand’s beachfront bistro, Coast. This Mediterranean-inspired eatery is divided into several zones, including a daybed area, an al fresco deck, and an air-conditioned indoor dining area. As the sun goes down, all three make the smooth transition from relaxed daytime chill spot to chic bistro hangout. The artisanal menu here features a vast and colourful selection of handcrafted pizzas, salads, pastas, and meat. Lovers of seafood will be glad to hear that the resort has recently teamed up with Thammachart Seafood, one of Thailand’s largest operators (importing from more than 18 countries). Diners are tempted with an incredible selection of fresh, high-quality seafood, including oysters, salmon, and lobster. In addition, Coast’s tapas and raw bar offers cold cuts, cheeses, bangkok101.com

and pickles, whilst the bar area focuses on seasonal cocktails and fine wines, all in a laid-back setting. On a different note, the hotel’s Museum Coffee & Tea Corner— originally the reception room of the Railway Hotel—provides afternoon tea, featuring a selection of finger sandwiches, cakes, homemade biscuits, and scones with cream and jam. Don’t miss their signature ‘Banilla’ coffee, a sweet, but perfectly balanced brew that was local barista’s Onuma Laohakittikarn’s winning creation at The Centara Barista of the Year 2014 awards. The café’s name is no coincidence, as inside it’s filled with artefacts and antiques that showcase its illustrious

past, including chinaware, old clocks, vintage cutlery, and even a telephone switchboard. From the café, guests can either enjoy the view of the beach, or overlook the vast landscaped gardens, while listening to the soothing sounds of Italian harpist Chiara Capobianco, who performs there from 3pm to 5pm (Thursday to Monday). It’s backdrops like this that make dining here all the more atmospheric, whether you prefer this era, of the bygone days of yore. by Julia Offenberger

Centara Grand Beach Resort 1 Damnernkasem Rd. Tel: 03 251 2021 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

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TRAVEL | spas in hua hin

Health & Wellness

NOORA SPA: Meaning “illumination” in Arabic, Noora Spa (63/411 Moo Baan Nong Kae) fittingly offers treatments culled from North African and Indian heritages, as it is part of the Marrakesh Resort. The spa is accordingly designed in contemporary Moroccan style, filled out with seven treatment rooms including Jacuzzi and steam options. Highlights are the Moroccan Hammam Bath experience, featuring Arabian beauty rituals using Argan oil, and the Radiant Massage, in which fragrance-infused candles and natural gold powder are slowly melted together, leaving the skin soft and aglow. www.marrakeshresortandspa.com

CHIVA-SOM: After two decades, Chiva-Som (73/4 Petchkasem Rd) remains at the forefront of the wellness brigade in Thailand. The resort itself offers 58 rooms for overnighters, but there’s also a staggering 70 treatment rooms—including a kinesis studio, a kneipp bath, and a sauna—for those interested in rejuvenating themselves inside and out. The resort offers extensive physiotherapy, fitness, spa, and holistic health facilities, where ancient therapies of the East come together with new Western techniques. What’s more, the award-winning cuisine served here makes use of fresh fruits and vegetables organically grown in the on-site garden. www. chivasom.com V SPA: Offering a mix of traditional and contemporary treatments, V Spa (63/39 Petchkasem Rd) offers many tantalizing treatments, including the signature V Balancing Massage, which uses a combination of shiatsu and Thai massage techniques—as well as reflexology and soothing aromatic herbal oils—to relieve stress, soothe sore muscles, and improve well-being on the whole. Other intriguing treatments include the Apple Stem Cell AntiAging Facial Therapy, as well as many kinds of fruit scrubs. For a more active way to heal, the resort and spa offers yoga, Tai Chi, and Thai boxing classes each day. www.v-villashuahin.com

LET’S RELAX: Since opening its first branch in Chiang Mai almost 20 years ago, Let’s Relax has expanded widely, and there are now outlets across Thailand (234/1 Phetkasem Rd. in Hua Hin). Their signature treatment, the Aromatic Hot Stone Massage, uses heated volcanic stones and warm oils to take your massage to another level. Other popular treatments include the classics—Thai massage, aromatherapy, foot massage, facials, and a floral bath—but they also offer reflexology and a special Four Hands massage. The time has come, so “let’s relax”! www. letsrelaxspa.com 60 | M A RCH 2017

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where to stay hua hin | TRAVEL

Dusit Thani Hua Hin The ‘Grand Dame’ of the Hua Hin beachfront scene

aving just passed their quarter century mark, the 26 year-old Dusit Thani Hua Hin remains one of the benchmarks for luxury hotels located along the Hua Hin, Cha-Am coastline. There are 296 accommodation units available within this spacious property, ranging from the 186 Superior Rooms, to the 43 Dusit Club Rooms, and all the way up to the two lavish Presidential Suites. But whichever room you settle into, the one thing every guest shares is access to the spacious grounds. In fact, one of the things that distinguishes this hotel from others is just how spaciously it’s laid out. The Olympic-sized swimming pool—which measures 50 x 25 m—is definitely a showpiece here, but right bangkok101.com

beside it sits an enormous ornamental pond, complete with a water fountain and footbridge. You’d be hard-pressed to find a modern hotel giving over that much space to something that has no other function than to just add to the beauty. On a different note, the quiet and leafy north side of the property is home to a salt-water swimming pool with swim up bar that sits in wait for guests seeking an even more tranquil idyll. And on the non-beach facing side of the hotel, the sprawling grounds are home to an extensive fitness center, four tennis courts, and a gigantic cricket/football pitch that in days of yore was used as the polo grounds. This section of the property is also home to the beautiful Devarana Spa where five fully-

equipped treatment rooms and three spa villas are on hand to pamper and placate (try the soothing 90-minute signature treatment which combines Thai, Swedish, Shiatsu, Ayurveda, and aromatherapy techniques). Inside the main building the attention to fine detail and comfortable spacing is noticeable from the moment you enter the elegant lobby, which is home to a spectacular spiral chandelier. Meanwhile, the rooms themselves offer comfort and grace in equal proportions, with little things like old-fashioned wooden headboards and vintage wooden furniture pieces adding an old-world charm to the overall experience. Of course, modern amenities are given equal prominence, so Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV, coffee station, mini-fridge, and more, all come standard. For diners there are four main F&B outlets to choose from, including Ban Benjarong, which features exceptional Thai cuisine and a nightly Thai traditional musical performance. However, for many visitors Rim Talay Bar & Grill, which specializes in steak and seafood, is the star attraction. This colonial-style sala—built right on the beach—is a one-of-a-kind place to be on a moonlit night when the gentle waves of the Gulf of Thailand are lapping at the shores, and the ocean breezes make outdoor dining irresistible. NOTE: If you book as a Dusit Club Guest you will receive many additional perks, including access to the Dusit Club Lounge where a variety of light refreshments are served throughout the day, and pre-dinner drinks are free-flow from 5:30pm to 7:30pm. by Bruce Scott

Dusit Thani Hua Hin 1349 Petchkasem Rd, Cha-Am Tel: 03 252 0009 www.dusit.com

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TRAVEL | where to stay hua hin

Hua Hin Marriott

What’s old is new again (and even better this time around)

he Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa that opened its doors in March of 2016 is built on the exact same spot where the former Marriott Hua Hin once stood. However, like a first-time beauty pageant contestant, this property has been given a complete makeover—from the ground up—and the result is a beautifully conceived holiday property. Designed in contemporary Thai style fused with colonial charm, the resort’s two main outer wings, that lead to the picturesque white sand beach, enclose a lush, central expanse of greenery. This outdoor area is crisscrossed by walking paths, footbridges, and an elaborate interconnected series of swimming pools, making it a fantastic place for families with children—there’s even an elaborate water playground nearer to the beach built just for the wee ones. But those who prefer a bit less volume will be happy to know there’s also a saltwater ‘Adults Only’ pool. Ringed by a tall rectangular barrier made of green hedges, it’s an idyllic oasis in this sea of activity. Another idyllic oasis is the Quan Spa, which offers a wide range of 62 | M A RCH 2017

soothing massage therapies and treatment packages. The hour-long Aroma Fusion Massage is a pleasant blend of several techniques, but the spa also offers body wraps, body firming, facials, and depilatory waxing. However, the most relaxing spot of all should, ideally, be one’s room, and the 322 units here are elegant, refined, and welcoming, ranging in size from the 39 sq.m Superior room, to the lavish 156 sq.m Presidential Suite. A number of rooms offer direct pool access, but all come with amenities such as Wi-Fi, spacious work desk, minibar, USB wall charger, bathrobes, safety box, and—most important of all—luxuriously comfortable beds with soft pillows and silky linens. Another nice touch is the unique art on the walls, with each piece reflecting aspects of Hua Hin’s historic past, and the thoughtful decorative accents, such as the beautiful polished wood ledge under the flatscreen TV hewn from a single tree trunk. The lovely attention to detail from the A49 group of architects shows in every aspect of the property… from the lobby to the lightswitch.

For diners, the Amber Kitchen offers a choice of indoor or outdoor seating, and Thai and international cuisine throughout the day. Breakfasts are served here as well, and the range of choices includes an amazing selection of breads, pastries and other baked goods (courtesy of the on-site Siam Bakery deli). Meanwhile, closer to the beach, cool tropical evenings are wisely spent taking in the fine food and beverages on offer at the Big Fish grill. Indulge in their East Meets West Signature Set (B2,800 for two persons), where each of the five courses is actually a twohander, presenting an Asian inspired dish alongside a Western one. It’s divinely delicious, and paired with one of the superb wines available (try the enchanting 2014 La Sancive Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie) makes for a memorable meal indeed. By Bruce Scott

Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa 107/1 Phetkasem Rd. Tel: 03 290 4666 www.huahinmarriott.com

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where to stay hua hin | TRAVEL

Anantara Hua Hin Resort Tropical jungle retreat in Thailand’s seaside resort town

hether it’s the lush green gardens, the intricacies in design, or the level of comfort and cleanliness—the Sanskrit meaning of the word anantara (translated as “without end”), is well reflected at the luxury resort group’s flagship property in Hua Hin—I just wish my stay there was “never ending” as well. Enjoying a premier beach front location, about 6 km north of Hua Hin’s town centre, the Anantara Hua Hin Resort welcomes guests at the open, multi-tiered roof entrance hall, rising majestically out of the surrounding greenery. The lavish gardens—weaving through the entire 14-acre property—have been designed by the renowned landscape architect Bill Bensley and are probably the foremost notable features upon arriving at the luxury resort, as they immediately transport guests into tropical jungle retreat mode. Dotted by traditional Thai twostory buildings with sloped rooftops, the resort also encompasses several lagoon ponds, a large swimming pool complete with a deck of sun loungers, and a private pool area for Club bangkok101.com

Lagoon guests. Meandering geckostamped paths lead to the property’s 187 rooms and suites, which range from the 32 sq.m Premium Garden View Rooms to the luxurious 64 sq.m Ananatra Sea View Suites. For a dreamy jungle feel, and plenty of space, opt for one of the elegant Junior Lagoon View Suites. Decorated in beige and brown tones, the 40 sq.m room comes with gorgeous hardwood floors, heavy wooden furniture, and a comfy king-size bed. One of the highlights is the open concept bathroom, complete with a large terrazzo bathtub in the centre of the room. Other amenities include flat screen TV, DVD player, a fully-equipped mini bar and fridge, Wi-Fi, and coffee and tea making facilities. The room also embraces the outdoors via a large private balcony with cozy built-in sofas, overlooking the lotus-covered lagoon pools—the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or secluded down-time. If you ever manage to leave the beautiful rooms, start your day with a sumptuous breakfast buffet at Issara Café, offering international and Asian favourites, made-to-order specialties,

and an array of healthy options, including daily smoothies, granola, and fruit infused water. While the hotel boasts several dining outlets, a great option for either lunch, or dinner, is the beachfront barbeque restaurant Saithong, where guests can indulge in a selection of grilled meats, and freshly caught seafood. For those who might still have trouble unwinding, the blissful Anantara Spa—another Bill Bensely designed feature—will take care of the rest. Comprised of six beautiful treatment rooms, two steam rooms, and a full-service hair and beauty salon, guests are bound to find the pampering treatment of their choice. I personally recommend the one-hour Stress Relief Massage, in which a masseuse applies a calming oil, and carefully stretches out any tensions and aches, leaving both body and mind “endlessly” relaxed. by Julia Offenberger

Anantara Hua Hin Resort 43/1 Phetkasem Beach Rd. Tel: 03 252 0250 www.huahin.anantara.com

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TRAVEL | hua hin visitor guide

GUIDE TO HUA HIN

Mrigadayavan Palace, Santorini Park, Hua Hin Bike Tours Black Mountain Golf Resort Dusit Thani Hua Hin Anantara Hua Hin Resort Mida De Sea Hua Hin

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6 ATTRACTIONS 1 Klai Kangwon Royal Palace 2 Plearnwan 3 Hua Hin Night Market 4 Vana Nava Hua Hin 5 Black Mountain Waterpark 6 Hua Hin Hills Vineyard 7 Hua Hin Kitesurfing 8 Cicada Market 9 BluPort Mall 10 Train Station ACCOMMODATIONS 1 Baan Talay Chine Resort 2 Putahracsa Hua Hin 3 Dune Hotel 4 Green Gallery Boutique Hotel 5 Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin 6 Wora Bura Hua Hin Resort & Spa 7 Hyatt Regency Hua Hin (The Wave Beach Club) 8 Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa 9 Hua Hin Marriott Resort 10 InterContinental Hua Hin Resort

3218 RESTAURANTS & BARS 1 Velo Café 2 Hua Hin Town Café 3 Icy Beans 4 Eighteen Below 5 White Home Café 6 Mooz 7 Ob-Oon 8 31 Burger 9 Wine House Bar & Bistro 10 Coco 51 11 Chub Cheeva 12 Two Beds and a Coffee Machine 13 Baan Thong Kam 14 Ratama

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GOLFING 1 Royal Hua Hin Golf Club 2 Hua Hin Golf Tours

SPAS 1 Noora Spa 2 V Spa 3 Chiva-Som 4 Let’s Relax

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Hua Hin 55 Praephan Rd

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TRAVEL | weekend wanderer

Beautiful beaches

Fishing village

Snacks on the beach

Buddha at Wat Nae Ranchararam

The Ch-arm of Cha-Am Sleepy beach town offers a “same same but different” experience Words and photos by Bruce Scott

or some, even the lackadaisical pace of Hua Hin seems too chaotic. If you fall into that camp, then join the geriatric set who seek solace in the tranquil beachfront town of Cha-Am, located just 26 km north up the coast from Hua Hin in the neighbouring province of Petchaburi. To be fair, you will see a lot of grey wolves and silver foxes amongst this town’s expat set, but there’s still lots of interest here for curious travelers of any age bracket. Cha-Am is blessed with a very long—mostly uninterrupted—stretch of sand, along which a bustling beach road runs parallel. This main thoroughfare (Ruam Chit Rd) is where you’ll find plenty of accommodation options, roadside restaurants, coffee shops, and souvenir stalls, as well as loads of scooters and bicycles for rent. Oddly, the majority of bicycles for rent

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WHERE TO EAT Bella: This highly recommended Italian restaurant is in the south end

of town (on the same road as the entrance to the Cha-Am Forest Park). It offers indoor and outdoor seating, as well as the best pizza and lasagna in town. Open daily from 5pm till 11pm. Tel: 03 247 0980.

The Garden: As the name suggests, this friendly and casual outdoor eatery is set within a lush expanse of garden. The entrance is on Ruam Chit Rd, however the eating area is set back a bit from the main drag. Open Thursday to Tuesday, from 10am to 10pm. Tel: 086 900 2244. Aroy: This fun and funky restaurant (on Chao Lai Rd) offers indoor and outdoor seating, reasonable prices, and a laid back friendly vibe. It also is home to—inexplicably—a huge collection of clocks, ranging from tiny cuckoo clocks to ornate, meter-high grandfather clocks. So make “time” to visit this one. Open daily from 8am till 11pm. Tel: 03 2470 479 Love Bread: This cool bakery café—close to the beach on Narathip Rd—serves up excellent bread and pastries, as well as proper coffees, juices, and an array of breakfast and lunch snacks. Indoor and outdoor seating available. Open daily from 7am till 6pm. Tel: 03 247 0205.

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weekend wanderer | TRAVEL

Souvenir stalls on Ruam Chit Rd.

Beachcombing for shellfish

Travelling south from the lookout point the beach becomes a bit rockier in parts, but that doesn’t stop people from wanting to relax by the seaside on shaded beach chairs while ordering cold drinks and seafood snacks. In fact, the sheer number of beach chairs available—from one end of the beach to the other—is staggering. Thankfully they are fairly reasonably priced (mine was just B50 for the whole day). At night there are quite a few watering holes along a wide avenue known as “Soi Bus Station”, which runs perpendicular to the main beach road (just a bit south of the lookout point). Most of these joints cater to single men looking for love, but as the nightlife options are few and far between in Cha-Am you’ll find plenty of groups—men and women—just relaxing over a beer, a game of pool, and some footie on the telly. And if you’re visiting Cha-Am for an extended length of time and want to keep in shape—eating all that delicious deep-fried seafood does take its toll—make a visit to Best Friend Yoga, located just off Narathip Rd. They offer early morning, and early evening classes, on weekdays only. Call 082 690 9620 for more info.

WHERE TO STAY There are loads of hostel and small hotel-style accommodations available in Cha-Am—most ranging between B400 and B800 per night—but if you want something a little more grandiose, try one of these beachfront resorts (all facing the beach, and located along Ruam Chit Rd).

The Garden Restaurant

are of the 2- or 3-seat variety, which seem to be popular with the many Thai families that flock here on weekends. The unofficial north-south divide of the town is Narathip Road, which begins at the Cha-Am Railway Station, passes through Phet Kasem Rd (the main highway), and culminates at an expansive beach lookout point. This paved platform is decorated with statues of blue crabs, shrimp, fish, squid, and lobster, all in celebration of the area’s main commercial commodity—seafood! Meandering north from this local landmark you’ll find beautiful expanses of sandy beach, lots of hotels and eateries, and at the top end—where the casuarina trees become thicker and the road forks—a bridge leads to a quaint fishing village which is, not surprisingly, home to dozens of seafood restaurants. The road leading further into the heart of the fisherman’s village zig zags a bit, and you have to cross a very narrow footbridge at one point, but it’s an interesting and atmospheric excursion. Along the way, don’t miss the famous six-armed Buddha statue at Wat Nae Ranchararam, in which the seated figure has its eyes, ears, and mouth covered. bangkok101.com

Baan Panthai: This unique boutique resort is set within a beautiful tropical garden, with seven villas and 24 luxury rooms. Other amenities include swimming pool, restaurant, Jacuzzi, and fitness centre. www.bannpantai.com FuramaXclusive: This sleek and chic beachfront resort offers 122 guest rooms of various sizes, including 16 units with pool access. Other amenities include rooftop swimming pool, Jacuzzi, fitness center, sauna, and one on-site restaurant. www.furamaxclusive.com/huahin The Cha-Am Methavalai Hotel: This multi-storey property offers a huge selection of different sized rooms and villas, as well as a free-form swimming pool, fitness center, and two restaurants. The balconies are all decorated with colourful flowers in bloom, making it easily recognizable from the road. www.methavalai.com Raya Resort: Located at the south end of the beachfront strip, this tranquil boutique resort has 16 beautiful rooms and villas to choose from, each blending traditional Thai architecture with luxurious modern interiors and amenities (including a pool and restaurant). www.rayaresortchaam.com M A RCH 2017 | 67

TRAVEL | upcountry now

LAANTA LANTA FESTIVAL March 12

The island of Koh Lanta, in Krabi province, has an amazing mix of cultures—all of whom simply seem to get along. This is particularly evident during the Laanta Lanta Festival, which happens each year on the first full moon in March (this year scheduled to fall on the 12th). The island’s Old Town is transformed during the 3-day festival, and during the evenings bamboo lights are erected over the main road, giving the area an incredible warm glow. All along the main road you will also find stalls selling Thai arts and crafts and clothing, as well as authentic food stalls with lots of local cuisine and drinks.

NATIONAL THAI ELEPHANT DAY March 13

The elephant is one of the most enduring symbols of Thailand. In 1998, Thai authorities decided to formally recognize the significance of the animal, thereby creating National Thai Elephant Day. Over the course of this day various events take place in zoos and elephant parks throughout the country, with many parks treating their elephants to huge banquets of fruit and sugarcane. In some cases, Buddhist ceremonies will be held with the aim of bringing good luck for the elephants and their mahouts (handler).

THAI MARTIAL ARTS FESTIVAL March 17

In Muay Thai, the first thing all boxers must do is to perform the Wai Khru, or respect paying ceremony, which has long been observed until this day. This ceremony shows the boxer’s regard and gratitude for his parents, various sacred objects, and the masters who have taught him in the past. Each year, in Ayutthaya at the World Heritage Site, Thai boxers from around the world participate in the Thai Martial Arts Festival and Wai Khru Muay Thai Ceremony and show their appreciation for the beautiful art of Muay Thai boxing. The event also includes many activities for visitors.

TRAT INDEPENDENCE DAY March 23-27

This festival celebrates March 23, 1906—when Trat was liberated from France. During his reign, King Rama V made a treaty with France in exchange for French troops’ manoeuvres off Chantaburi Province. The King granted Pratabong, Siem Reap, and Sri Sophon to France in exchange for Trat Province and the islands and towns on the right bank of the Mekong. During the fair the King Rama V Commemorative Parade is held, as well as an exhibition showcasing the history of Trat. Local agricultural product markets and lively cultural performances are also part of the 5-day celebrations. 68 | M A RCH 2017

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ART

| ART & CULTURE

Journal Journey

Group art exhibition featuring Thapong Srisai, Pawan Chirano-thai, Penpansa Thammanukul, and Chalida Asawakanjanakithas

he education facilities provided in the average Thai classroom might not be enough for budding art students to become artistically inspired, or even just get their creative juices flowing. What can serve this need, and the desire to explore new experiences and seek out answers? Just to witness things isn’t enough for the creative mind. Getting firsthand experience and having interaction with the subject matter is what ultimately inspires the four artists in this group exhibit. They embark on a journey across the world where they can explore to the fullest—similar to a bird seeing the world freely from the sky. This idea fills in missing pieces for these artists. Each “journey” of each artist aims to satisfy their curiosity, and is portrayed in their own personal style—patterns, painting, artistic display, articles, and performance art. The purpose of their collaboration is to share these accumulated priceless moments and challenges. The result?… an artistic “journal”. This new generation of artists is exemplified by THAPONG SRISAI, PAWAN CHIRANO-THAI, PENPANSA THAMMANUKUL, and CHALIDA ASAWAKANJANAKITHAS. Come explore the vastness of the world with them in this very unique group show. JOURNAL JOURNEY runs until MARCH 25 at the KALWIT STUDIO & GALLERY (119/14 Soi Ruam Ruedi). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am to 6pm. For more information, call 02 254 4629. www.facebook.com/kalwitstudio

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

MARCH 2-25 Harmonie

YenakArt Villa 69 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Fri, 3pm-7pm, Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 086 705 4280 | www.yenakartvilla.com

In this commemorative group show, artists Bruno Tanquerel and Sujin Wattanawongchai both pay homage to the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. As a father of three boys, born and raised in Thailand, Bruno admits that the King’s death in October affected him deeply, and that His Majesty’s love for art and culture inspired him to show respect with a series of portraits. Sujin, meanwhile, expresses his feelings through a series of abstract paintings inspired in part by his suburban studio, and by the music that the King composed—paintings created with a sense of harmony, energy, and expression.

MARCH 3-APRIL 29 In Nowhere Land

Kathmandu Photo Gallery 87 Pan Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 02 234 6700 | www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

Didier Mayhew, a 49 year-old French-English photographer who resides in Nepal, is making his Bangkok debut. The photographer’s bond with the children in the photos is real and based on trust, built over three years of following around the nomadic families that hail from the Terai, the infamous ‘malarial lowlands’ between the Indian border and the Nepali Himalayan foothills. Unlike the much-photographed colourful Kathmandu Valley people and the iconic Sherpa, these are people who truly have nothing. Transcendent and profound, these apparently familiar images of poverty have been transformed through being seen by the “eyes of love”.

MARCH 10-26 Joan Cornella Solo Show Future Factory Bangkok

1077/48 Phahonyothin Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Sun, 11am-10pm Tel: 098 253 9356 | www.facebook.com/futurefactorybkk

Spanish cartoonist Joan Cornella known for his black humor-laced six-panel comic strips, makes his Bangkok debut this month. His seemingly innocent characters touch on socially-inhibited topics via scenes of cannibalism, infanticide, deification, murder, suicide, and amputation. His cartoons have drawn widespread international acclaim, and this exhibition will showcase his canvases alongside limited-edition illustrations, T-shirts, and books for sale. The artist himself will be present—at least some of the time—signing copies of his books. Please note there is a B200 admission fee. 72 | M A RCH 2017

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

MARCH 11-APRIL 30 Dreamy Land

Subhashok The Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-5:30pm, Sun, 12pm-6pm Tel: 02 662 0299 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

A graduate of the Faculty of Decorative Arts, Silpakorn University, the youthful artist Supasit Thrammaprasert delivers his first solo exhibition. The works share the same concept which, in the artist’s words, is “to attain the idealistic world as viewed by other people. When one thinks about an ideal world in contemporary times, sometimes it is not to be up in heaven in the afterlife, but perhaps somewhere else—such as Atlantis per Plato, or the Utopia of Sir Thomas Moore. At other times, it may be merely just to have a stable political outset in one’s country in order to have a better living condition.”

MARCH 18-MAY 30 Investigating Inspirations Thavibu Art

919/1 Silom Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 266 5454 | www.thavibuart.com

This group art show features new paintings and sculptures by six established and promising contemporary Thai artists—namely Therdkiat Wangwatcharakul, Santi Thongsuk, Kritsana Chaikitwattana, Chatchawan Amsomkid, Rattana Salee, and Sudaporn Phannil. The “inspirations”, ranging from the social and political to the spiritual and aesthetic, can be traced back to each artist’s life experience, as well as their surroundings, politics, and interactions with other artists. Each of the artist has chosen to transfer their unique instrument of cathartic release onto their preferred medium, creating powerful works of art.

UNTIL APRIL 2 Action In/Action

Serindia Gallery OP Garden Unit 3101-3201, 4-6, Soi 36 Charoenkrung Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-8pm Tel: 02 238 6410 | www.serindiagallery.com

Chinese-born artist Wei Yifeng presents a groundbreaking new series of work in this show, exploring the “way of nature” philosophy of Taoism. Using various traditional ink painting and calligraphy formats, Yifeng has adapted the free spirit of “Wu Wei” in her work. She allows the natural energy channel through her brush, via ink and colour, onto the rice paper without intentionally manipulating it. The result is some amazing and spectacular paintings, veering away from the traditional formats. The artist’s work shows harmony among her applications with media and material, and the differential between forms and concepts. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

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museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

Elegance Embodied

Innovation and preservation at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

pened in 2010, the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles embodies the elegance and exquisite timeless beauty of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, a true incarnation of the quintessential Thai woman. The marble house, with its chandeliers, ionic columns and marble floor, seems almost to have been built to serve as a jewel box for the most beautiful ornaments of Thailand’s monarchy. But that’s not the case. In fact, the Italian-style structure—built by the architect Joachim Grassi in 1870 for King Rama IV—was first used as the Royal Office for Tax Revenues, before hosting the Ministry of Finance. After sitting empty for many decades, Grassi’s ornate structure was eventually transformed into the textile museum we know today—located within the extended grounds of the Grand Palace—and as such it is a leading institution in the field of Thai fabrics. Following a complete renovation, the museum opened its doors with the aim of showing visitors the textile production and the skilled craftsmanship of Thailand’s artisans. The museum’s dual purpose, however, is also to preserve, foster, promote, and revive the Kingdom’s traditional textile industry. A dedicated textile conservation laboratory, a state of the art storage room—which can house between 10,000 and 15,000 items—and an education centre are all part of the museums’ attributes. Those who visit the museum are given the opportunity to get a glimpse into the fabulous fashion collection of the Thai monarchy, and particularly of HM Queen Sirikit. “Her Majesty gave to the museum a collection of 300 to 400 costumes and accessories, but we can only show some 50 to 60 items in our gallery,” explains a member of the museum staff. Two exhibitions are currently on display. One looks at the sophisticated way to create costumes for Khon performances (traditional Thai drama). Many forgotten traditions have been revived to create sophisticated performers’ costumes. Meanwhile, a second exhibition, entitled ‘Fit For a Queen’, will display (until 2018) some 40 exquisite dresses that Queen Sirikit wore on official visits throughout Europe and the United States. In 1960, the Royal Couple toured the globe for six months, visiting the USA and 14 European countries in a bid to strengthen political and economic relations between Thailand and the rest of the world, and also to expose Thailand's culture and arts on a worldwide scale. With her elegant natural grace, Queen Sirikit turned herself into an icon of Thai elegance and fashion with her tailor-made dresses—which eventually got the Queen included into the International “Best-Dressed” lists. The Queen chose French designer Pierre Balmain to create special items. Western European forms blended bangkok101.com

with Thai textiles such as silk brocade, while also using embroideries. The Queen’s own collection reflected a sense of innovation and anchored Thai fashion on the international stage. Many of the dresses shown are just amazing, and some are truly surprising. Take for instance the simple white dress that Her Majesty wore to meet Elvis Presley, or the amazing evening dress from 1960, dotted with Thai embroidery patterns on a body shape reminiscent of 18th century French costumes. In the mid-sixties, Balmain also created dresses with a distinctive Thai character. The exhibition testifies that Queen Sirikit’s wardrobe was created in the spirit of a certain modernity. It still looks for modern day equivalent. NOTE: Entry price is B150, with seniors, students and youths benefiting of discounting rates. For visitors with a ticket for the Grand Palace, the textile museum can be visited free of charge.

Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles Open daily: 9am-4:30pm | Tel: 02 225 9420 www.queensirikitmuseumoftextiles.org

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ART & CULTURE | required reading

Glamorous Gumshoe

In her new book author Cara Black, a one-time Patpong bar hostess, explores the early life of Aimée Leduc—her infamous detective heroine Words by Kevin Cummings Photo by Alasdair McLeod

n her new novel, Cara Black shows dog, a Bichon Frise she names Miles why she is a New York Times Davis. We also learn where she meets bestselling author, as well as a the 4’0” tall, green eyed dwarf René, a Macavity Award winner, and three-time computer wizard who goes on to be her Anthony Award nominee (the latter are partner in crime-solving throughout the both literary awards given to mystery later series. writers). Her 2016 book Murder on the The importance of family members Quai is a prequel to her Aimée Leduc comes through loud and clear in this detective franchise—which numbers prequel, as the Leduc values—including 16 strong—and is set during a six-day perseverance—are instilled in our period in 1989. protagonist at an early age. She’s tough, The mystery unfolds on November she’s smart, and she gets through her 9th in Paris, the day after the Berlin wall first romantic disappointment with a comes tumbling down. It’s a “looking panache that is admirable. back” story for fans of the chic detective The whodunit ratchets up in who emerges fully in later years. At believable fashion when a second old Cara Black reading in Bangkok this juncture, however, Aimée is just man is murdered and is also found 19 years old, and a first-year medical student at Paris floating in the Seine. One senses the resourceful Aimée’s Descartes University. She prefers cowboy boots and allegiance to her prestigious medical school is waning as wearing her father’s leather jacket while roaming the her interest in the family business begins to grow. Revenge streets of Paris by foot, bicycle, or motorbike (complete seems to be a likely motive, but by whom? To keep the with cumbersome sidecar). reader baited, author Black provides more than the usual Periodically the story flashes back to Germany, circa suspects. The German-French connection results in much 1942, where we learn that four French country farmers tragedy and misdirection before resolution occurs—but come across a German Nazi truck stuck in the mud—loaded not without considerable cost to the Leduc family. with gold and on the wrong side of the river during a heavy Murder on the Quai is sure to be enjoyed by fans of the storm. Four Germans die at the hands of the farmers, but series, and readers of quality crime mysteries. Travelers the fifth one escapes. The farmers plot to keep the gold with a casual to thorough knowledge of ‘The City of Light’ hidden until the war ends, and at one point they kill a Vichy will derive added pleasure from this well plotted tale. village mayor, considering him a “loose end”. Meanwhile—back in 1989—a heavy-set, well-dressed ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Chicago-born Cara Black is a cigarprovincial who couldn’t “rub off the village dirt” is murdered loving, award-winning San Francisco based author who in Paris. He’s left to float beneath a bridge traversing the also has a Bangkok connection. She lived in the city for five Seine after being shot in ritualistic fashion. The daughter months while the Vietnam War was in full swing. As her of the murdered man, a distant cousin of Aimée, contacts Amazon author page states, she worked on Patpong Road Jean-Claude Leduc. Jean-Claude is a former policeman and as a Bangkok “bar girl” during that stint. But, as she quickly Aimée’s father who now runs his own detective agency. adds, she only poured drinks! The firm is hired to follow-up on a classic match box clue found in the dead man’s pocket—the name “Suzy”, and To learn more about Cara Black and her novels, a mysterious phone number. Jean-Claude has business to visit www.sohopress.com/authors/cara-black take care of in Berlin, involving his former wife (Aimée’s renegade American mother), so the daughter detective works her first case alone with only a counterfeit private Murder on the Quai investigator card and her intuition to guide her. An Aimée Leduc crime novel The 1989 setting proves interesting. It is a time of 336 pages pagers, brick sized mobile phones, fax machines, Dallas Available in eBook and hardcover format on the television, and Madonna hits playing on CDs in the (paperback is coming out in May 2017) background. Along the way, we learn how Aimée finds her www.amazon.com 76 | M A RCH 2017

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cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

They Call it Myanmar: Lifting the Curtain

White God

Where To Invade Next

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

erfectly timed with International Women’s Day, the weeklong HeForShe Arts Week event takes place in Bangkok from the 8th to 15th of March. The event encompasses a number of initiatives related to arts and culture that will bring gender equality to the forefront of the public sphere, including a 4-day film festival at SF Cinema, Central World (however the list of films being shown was still unannounced as of press time). For those who don’t know, HeForShe is a solidarity campaign for gender equality initiated by UN Women. Its goal is to engage men and boys as agents of change. www.facebook.com/unwomenasia. In other film news, the Bangkok Underground Film Fest—which aims to support DIY and first-time filmmakers— has two showcases taking place this month. The first begins on March 4th (and runs until the 12th) at the Bridge Art Space (Soi Charoenkrung 51), while the second gets underway on March 5th at Gallery Ver (Narathiwat Soi 22). Details remain unconfirmed at press time, but you can visit the Facebook page for info and updates. www.facebook.com/bangkokundergroundfilmfestival The historic La Scala theatre (Siam Square Soi 1) hosts the Design Film Festival Bangkok on March 4th and 5th, with screenings of eight different design-oriented documentaries. The films include Banksy Does New York, a month in the life of the British graffiti master, and Crazy About Tiffany’s, which examines the jewellery brand’s rise to global prominence. The Saturday screenings begin at 2pm (last show at 7:50pm) while the Sunday screenings begin at 1:30pm (last screening at 7pm). Tickets are B150 each. www.tcdc.or.th/dffbkk2017 bangkok101.com

A film event that was postponed from 2016 will be restaged this month. White God—Hungary’s entry for the 2014 Oscars—will be shown as part of the longrunning ‘Contemporary World Film Series’ on Saturday March 11th at 4pm. The screening will take place at Thailand Knowledge (TK) Park, located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld (999/9 Rama 1 Rd). The film, directed by Kornél Mundruczó, is a strong and inspiring tale of the love between Lili, a 13 year-old girl, and her half-breed “mongrel” dog Hagen (the opening and closing scenes, of hundreds of dogs running across the streets of the city, have stunned film critics and audiences). The screening will be followed by snacks and refreshments provided by the Embassy of Hungary, and tickets are only B20 each. For more information, visit www.tkpark.or.th. Finally, the Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd) has four documentaries showing this month, starting with The Look of Silence on March 6th, a 2014 film in which an optician confronts the men who killed the brother that he never knew during the 1960s Indonesian genocide. On March 13th check out the film Gayby Baby, a 2015 doc about the experiences of kids with same-sex parents, followed on March 20th by They Call it Myanmar: Lifting the Curtain, Robert H. Lieberman’s 2012 revealing doc that was shot clandestinely over a two-year period. Finally, Where To Invade Next—in which acclaimed American filmmaker Michael Moore visits various countries to examine how Europeans view work, education, health care, sex, equality, and other issues—will be shown on March 27th. Screenings start at 7:30pm, and are free for members and B150 for non-members. www.fccthai.com M A RCH 2017 | 7 7

Art & Culture Photo Feature

In this issue we showcase a trio of amazing contemporary Thai female artists

Lampu Kansanoh This 33 year-old holds three degrees, including Master of Fine Arts (paintings) from Silpakorn University, Bangkok. She has won numerous awards, and was selected for the artist in residence program at Fukuoka Asian Art Museum, Japan. The paintings here are from the series entitled Love Impressions, which explores the artist’s connection with her long-term boyfriend— depicted in different occupations—and ponders over their bonds of affection.

Anchalee Arayapongpanich Daring and dynamic, this 31 yearold painter creates artworks that showcase her infinite imagination and individuality, most depicting big-eyed women who are free from limitation in terms of ideas, expressions, and strength. A graduate of the Faculty of Painting Sculpture and Graphic Arts, Silpakorn University, Bangkok, she admits that films are her main inspirations for her creationsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; as they provide multi-layered dimensions of feelings, ambience, and lighting.

OH+ Futon Born in Bangkok, this 36 year-old artist graduated from Silpakorn University, Bangkok, and has since become a recognized name in the local art scene. Alongside her gallery shows and commercial workâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for such clients as Fendi, Absolut Vodka, and FCUKâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;she has also written books, is a member of the band Futon (performing in Asia and Europe), and currently lives in Leipzig (Germany).

FOOD & DRINK |

Amazing new tapas lunch and dinner menus at Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar 84 | M A RCH 2017

bangkok101.com

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY raise your glass

Although known primarily for their outstanding selection of wines by the glass—and glasses that are all produced by a renowned Austrian stemware manufacturer— RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR at the GAYSORN shopping mall (999 Phloen Chit Rd) recently upped their food game as well, offering an outstanding selection of tapas treats on separate lunch and dinner tasting menus. They are also now open daily from 10am till 1am, and extended “happy hours” are in place every Wednesday and Friday between 5pm and 10pm, with specially crafted B295 cocktails. But the delicious tapas dinner menu is on offer every weekday (Monday to Friday, also from 5pm to 10pm) with standout dishes such as Harissa roasted chicken and cous cous, sea scallops, chicken liver pate, and Iberico Bellota ham aged 42 months (the handiwork of Lady Brett’s former chef PATRICK MARTENS).

it’s the “bomb” One of the most buzzed about openings as of late was the one for BOMBYX, the newly launched restaurant by the people from JIM THOMPSON. It’s a place where cocktails and cuisine meet art and music, and the lavish décor is certainly Instagram-worthy. Located on the main floor of the North wing at SIAM PARAGON (991 Rama 1 Rd), it’s a beautiful new addition to Bangkok’s wine and dine scene.

my kitchen is your kitchen The newly opened MY KITCHEN complex, located on the 4th floor at SIAM DISCOVERY (Rama 1 Rd), tempts diners with an “eat, meet, and mingle” philosophy. The 1,000 sq.m space has enough room to accommodate 250 persons, while the minimalist décor—courtesy of Japanese design studio Nendo—and windows offering panoramic views of the city, make it a thoroughly modern hangout (there’s even free Wi-Fi, and live music Fridays and Saturdays from 6pm). So how about the food?... well, there are six open kitchens serving different kinds of cuisine, including Thai from NARA and CAFE CHILLI, Cantonese from MAN FU YUAN, Japanese from YUZU BY YUUTARO, café snacks from KUPPADELI, and desserts from BRIX. Open daily from 10am till 10pm.

get your freak on Australia is definitely a place where anything goes, and once it “goes” there, it usually ends up here in Bangkok. Case in point: the recently opened PATISSEZ (Parc 39, 5/9, Sukhumvit Soi 39), from Canberra, which brings local lactose lovers the “freakshake” (the name says a lot about its size). They come in five freaky varieties—nutella pretzel, mint chocolate, banana caramel, watermelon and berries, and Thai tea white chocolate. Alongside these sweet treats expect all-day brunch-style dishes, as well as the Freak Burger (to go with the shake, no doubt), in which a double-patty of Aussie beef, on a brioche bun, is topped with cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion, BBQ sauce, and bacon jam.

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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Weekend Brunch at the Courtyard

The House on Sathorn | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 | www.thehouseonsathorn.com When The Courtyard at The House on Sathorn says its ‘Weekend Brunch’ is something special, guests can definitely believe what they read. The à la carte choices on offer focus on healthy, wholesome and, of course, delicious ingredients. Highlights include pancakes with Nutella, banana and hazelnuts, eggs Benedict, and something called the Sunny Scandinavian Day, comprised of Gravlax, lumpfish roe, red onion, radishes, dill and Hovmastar sauce. This amazing brunch is available every Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to 3pm throughout March. Prices start at B180++ per dish.

Personalized Pizza Combos at Giorgio’s

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers | 2 Charoenkrung Rd, Soi 30 Tel: 02 266 9214 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com It’s time for all the pizza lovers out there to try out the mouth-watering combos available now at Giorgio’s. Guests can choose their favourite pizza set from three different styles. The Small Combo (B499++) includes a pan of pizza, plus two appetizers, while the Medium Combo (B599++) includes a pan of pizza, plus three appetizers. Finally, the Party Combo (B799++) includes your favourite choice of two pans of pizza, plus four appetizers. This pizza-perfect promotion is available for dinner only, running from 6pm to 10:30pm.

Savor Kyushu Tunas and Hokkaido Oysters at Kisso

The Westin Grand Sukhumvit Bangkok | 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.kissobangkok.com Capture the culinary essence of the month of March in Japanese style with lunch and dinner menus dedicated to two delectable delicacies now in their winter prime—Kyushu tuna and Hokkaido oysters. Enjoy fresh Hokkaido oyster, crumbled deep-fried Hokkaido oyster and Japanese style tartar sauce, Kyushu tuna medium fatty belly rare steak with garlic soy sauce, and a Kyushu tuna (3 kinds) sushi platter. Kisso is open daily, with lunch from 12pm to 2:30pm and dinner from 6pm to 10:30pm. Promotion prices start at B320++ per dish.

Dinner and Show at the Riverside Terrace Hanuman

Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort | 257/1-3 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 476 0022 | www.anantara.com The Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort proudly presents a dynamic new cultural dining experience entitled ‘The Adventures of Hanuman Dinner & Show’, priced at just B1,499++ per person. This lavish staged production runs from 7:30pm to 8:30pm daily, and will bring to all guests an introduction into the heritage and vibrancy of Thai mythology. Meanwhile, throughout the evening, a lavish buffet dinner features a variety of foods ranging from Thai street food to a bounty of seafood on ice. The dinner buffet runs from 6pm to 10pm.

An Afternoon Delight for Chocolate Lovers at Hanuman Bar

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok | 991/9 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com/bangkok Throughout the month of March, the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok offers a delightful new afternoon tea dedicated to chocolate lovers. The selections include chocolate-chip orange scones, tasty macadamia-studded chocolate fudge pound cake, malt whisky and Guanaja chocolate petite pot, and mouthwatering Valrhona chocolate pralines from France. A selection of tea blends and coffees is also available as part of this impressive variation on traditional English afternoon tea. The afternoon tea is served daily from 2pm to 5pm and priced at just B800++ per set.

Michelin Star Chef’s New Menu at J’aime

U Sathorn Bangkok | 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 | www.jaime-bangkok.com Head Chef Amerigo Tito Sesti and his team proudly present a brand-new menu that exemplifies Jean-Michel’s passion and inspiration combining tropical vegetables, herbs and spices, with leading ingredients from the four corners of the culinary world. Many highlight dishes are on offer now, including beef tartare with Mediterranean vegetables, herbs, and marinated lemon. The menu items are available daily as an à la carte 5-course meal (B2,399 net), 7-course meal (B3,399 net) or 10-course meal (B4,199 net). Lunch service is from noon to 2:30pm, and dinner from 6pm to 10pm.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Backyard By Baan

Chef Ton plants one foot firmly in the Sukhumvit suburbs

s the megacity of Bangkok expands in every conceivable direction, it’s not surprising that established, reputable downtown restaurants will follow in that wake, anxious to appease the tastebuds of bedroom community dwellers whose only gastro option appears—at first glance—to be the mega-KFC outlet at the local community mall. And while just such a KFC anchors the JAS Urban Mall on Srinakarin Road (a short taxi ride from Bearing BTS station), there’s also finer fare to be had here at Backyard By Baan, which opened its doors just over two months ago. This ground floor restaurant is the suburban sister to Baan (on Wireless Rd), which is presided over by superstar chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn, of Le Du fame. Like Baan, the menu here celebrates authentic Thai comfort food and local ingredients, albeit with a few contemporary twists. To come away with a good overview of what the restaurant offers start with Moo Dad Deaw (B180), the signature sun-dried, deep-fried pork strips that come served in a woven basket, bangkok101.com

complimented by spicy chili sauce. Follow that with Kai Pa Loew Tum Zap (B250), a delicious spiced soup served with two whole eggs, chunks of meaty pork, and a cavalcade of other powerful Thai flavours (coriander, lemongrass, and dried chilies to name a few). It’s a menu item you don’t see all that often, so don’t pass it up. The Ka Pao Nua (B290) is another seldom seen menu offering. Here the dry-aged Thai beef (it’s usually pork or chicken in the mix) is stir-fried with liberal amounts of garlic and chili. Served with rice, it’s a delicious variation on an always satisfying favourite—and much less greasy than its porcine counterpart. However not all dishes here stick to a strict Thai script, as evidenced by the Pasta with Northern sausage (B190). It’s worth noting that on the menu it’s listed as fettucine, and served with anchovies, but customization according to customer preference is encouraged. We opted for penne, along with thick cut slices of bacon replacing the anchovy, but the delicious Northern sausage remained in the starring role. The drink menu also offers plenty of options—wine, craft beer, etc.—but

the Thai-centric cocktails here are worth seeking out. The refreshing Busaba (B200) combines gin, homemade ginger syrup, lime juice, lychee, and soda—with marvelous results—while the sweet and satisfying Khoo Gam (B200) makes use of Lamoon, a Thai white spirit made from sugarcane. Combined with lemongrass syrup, lime juice, and butterfly pea syrup, it makes for a pleasingly pretty, purple potable. As for the décor, the vibe here is casual and relaxed, with strips of greenery livening up the exterior walls. There’s seating for 80 to 100 persons—both indoor and outdoor— however the very comfortable cushioned bench seats available at some of the outdoor tables definitely evoke a more substantial “backyard” feeling. by Bruce Scott

Backyard By Baan

GF, Jas Urban Mall Sri Nakarin Soi 46/1 Tel: 02 386 7339 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm facebook.com/backyardbybaan M A RCH 2017 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | review

Bunker

Contemporary American cuisine develops a fanatical food following

hen a restaurant develops the word-of-mouth following Bunker has, in just eight months of operation, it does whet one’s appetite during the approach to this temple of concrete. Happily, the buzz is well deserved as the kitchen turns out some of the best dishes anywhere in Bangkok. Inside there are cylindrical columns rising like smokestacks from the first-floor bar up to the dining areas on the second and third floor. The bright turquoise seats and geometric chandelier add a splash of life to the restaurant, as does the open kitchen. The third floor offers patio seating for those who want fresh air, and indoor seating is generously spaced to allow for conversations. Partners Andreas Pergher and Tim Butler describe the cuisine as contemporary American, which is vague enough that most Americans don’t comprehend what it means. In Bunker’s case, it is a heavy New York influence from chef Arnie Marcella’s experience there—a mix of immigrant flavour and hearty food. Rather than any flair for the dramatic, top-notch ingredients

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and excellence in execution mark the dishes here. The quality of the produce means there is no need to try plating things to resemble a work by Jackson Pollock. A dish simply entitled ‘Locally Grown’ (B375) offers 19 herbs and vegetables grown in Thailand, the result of the chef’s collaboration with a forager. It’s lovely to look at, and has a citrus kick with crunch—thanks to some outstanding baby carrots. Meanwhile, the Hiramasa tartare (B375), a type of kingfish with jicama, provides a salty counterbalance to the salad. The grilled Wagyu beef tongue, paired with a single Brittany sea snail on parsnip puree with a parsley foam (B425), was a perfect combination of salt, fat, and the crunch of the snail. The addictive Japanese pumpkin soup (B450) has drawn a following, including requests for the recipe, but chef Marcella swears the only ingredients are pumpkin, water, smoked Alaskan king crab, black truffles, and pickled shallot. The wild Mediterranean sea bass (B850) was succulent, bathed in a basil lemongrass water and accompanied by heirloom tomatoes popping with

flavour. The Swiss chard topped with a sweet and piquant peanut sauce was sharp, not taking a back seat to the juicy Butterscotch pork belly (B675) that was rib-sticking. Finally, the Wagyu beef filet mignon (B900), again with baby carrots, was so tender and red that I’m practically drooling now just recalling it. If you’re still upright, the Malagos chocolate torte (B300) will surely finish you off. Made from single-origin cocoa from the Philippines, it combines a mascarpone creameux, caramel and cashew toffee. Bunker serves wine by the glass— the 2015 Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc (B360) was a sublime dry pairing for many of the starters—as well as custom cocktails such as the Tail Spin (B320), a mixture of dry gin, vermouth and chartreuse that proved a delicious bitter antidote to several rich dishes. by Robin Banks

Bunker

118/2, Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 092 563 9991 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Char Restaurant C

New chef, new menu, new (26th floor) outlook

onfession: I don’t like seafood. Try as I might, I’ve never been able to get past the smell, texture, and general look of these weird aquatic creatures. From the seaside town I grew up in, to right here in Thailand, to admit such a thing is tantamount to blasphemy. But that may be about to change, and it’s all thanks to Char. The restaurant, spread out over the 25th and 26th floors of the Hotel Indigo, has been an impressive addition to the high-end dining scene over the past year, but the introduction of Chef Nikolas Ramirez a couple of months ago may catapult the venue to the city’s must-try status. The Hawaiian-born chef joins Char following a decade’s worth of international experience—not to mention a spell working as a professional soccer player in Romania—and his desire is to shake things up. The result? A menu of exciting new additions and fresh takes on customer favourites, each designed with the young, tattooed chef’s “rock and roll” outlook at heart. Which brings me back to the bewildering business of seafood. My dining experience begins with a Ramirez twist on the Prawn cocktail (B380). Served iced in a large wooden bowl, it’s a sociable starter that sets the tone for an evening of dishes that surprise, and not just in the unique way they are presented, but the fact that I—a seafood naysayer—actually rather enjoyed them. This dish is served with lettuce, avocado, and a spicy salsa to be enjoyed taco-style. For something a little more carnivorous, opt for the Smoked beef tartar (B280), a melt-in-the-mouth starter served with fruit mustard and crostini, which acts as the perfect segue into the selection of meaty mains. For example, there’s the Mexican-inspired Fiesta burger (B400), combining a juicy, perfectly cooked Australian Wagyu topside patty (that’s been painstakingly prepared) with jalapeño, bacon, bangkok101.com

guacamole and aged cheddar cheese— all crammed into a light charcoal bun. But if you take your grilled goods a little more seriously than burgers, there’s good news. The funky eatery offers a couple of showstoppers that can’t be missed, especially if you’re looking to impress a dining partner. They include the spectacular whole Lobster tail with aioli sauce (B2,200) and the mighty Tomahawk Wagyu steak (from B560), both of which are presented beautifully to deliver the wow-factor, and guaranteed to have you reaching for your camera. If there’s room for dessert, I recommend Ramirez’s Crackerjack sundae (B250), not to mention an

inventive cocktail from the rooftop bar and lounge one floor up. The views from the rooftop, or out the windows of the 25th floor restaurant, are magical. As the Wireless Rd city skyline lights up after sunset, it’s a truly special experience… and one that has changed my outlook on seafood dining for good. by Annaliese Watkins

Char Restaurant

25-26F, Hotel Indigo 81 Wireless Rd. Open: Thu-Sat, 6pm-11:30pm, Sun-Wed, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 207 4999 www.charbangkok.com M A RCH 2017 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | review

Avra Greek Restaurant A rare and welcome gift from the Gods

uch to the dismay of those with a special place in their heart for Greek food, Bangkok’s dining scene has long endured an almost criminal dearth of this enchanting Mediterranean cuisine—but suffer shall we no more. Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery, located just a short stroll down Soi 33, sets the gold standard for local Greek dining with authentic ingredients and modern creative flair that pays due homage to the country’s millennia-long cooking arts heritage. An impressively expansive menu includes all the perennial favourites the informed Greco-gastrophile might expect, prepared with thoughtful touches that give the cooking here a character and quality that transcend the genre. Tzatziki, the ubiquitous condiment that thinks it’s a side

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dish, can indeed be ordered as a side (B180), however it’s included with many of the mains and starters. Made with thick-set yogurt, garlic, cucumber and olive oil, tzatziki goes perfectly with just about anything that comes out of a Greek kitchen. We starter-ed with the Piperies Gemisti (B240), an oven baked bell pepper bursting with ground beef and seasoned rice, while the highly recommended Saganaki (B240) uses grilled, thick-sliced strips of imported Graviera cheese (similar to Italian Pecorino sardo) and surrenders a satisfyingly firm bite and clean flavour enhanced with a pre-plating cognac flambé. Next came Dolmadakia (B315), the moist vine leaf rolls stuffed with seasoned rice and herbs. The warm, freshly-made wraps—some of the best we’ve had anywhere—are generouslysized with a luxuriously textured filling, while the accompanying tzatziki

makes for a palate-dazzling marriage made in heaven (or Mount Olympus, take your pick). The Mousaka (B430) features a layer of spiced ground beef topped with thick potato and eggplant slices and creamy-smooth béchamel sauce. A no less-satisfying vegetarian version (B380) replaces the beef with minced mushroom. A quick meal fixture at diners and walk-up stalls the world over, Gyros Kotopuolo (B290) is grilled, shaved chicken kebab—Avra’s is impossibly tender and exquisitely seasoned, served open-faced on pita bread with fresh tomato, onion, baked potato wedges and tzatziki (conventional pita “pocket” sandwich plating on request). And if it’s char-grilled BBQ goodness you crave, the Xorino Souvlaki (B350) will undoubtedly satisfy. The moist and tender charcoal spit-roasted pork skewers are served with veggies, fries and (once again) tzatziki. Just as Italy has tiramisu, India its gulab jamun and the USA its apple pie, Greece has Baklava (B210). The house rendition of this beloved heritage dessert offers crispy-browned layers of delicate Phyllo dough with a sweet minced-nut filling, topped with honey and chopped walnuts and pistachios. Succulently warm and utterly irresistible, this would be a mandatory dessert if ‘Food Police’ were an actual thing. NOTE: Vegetarians will appreciate the abundance of meatless choices on Avra’s menu that even meat-eaters will savour. by Chris Michael

Avra Greek Restaurant

GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Suan Bua

Reviving rare and regional recipes

nce you enter the courtyard of the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, the manic melee of people, cars, and street stalls along Phaholyothin Road feels like it’s a world away. Here the annoying background noise of Bangkok’s evening traffic is completely shut out. And in this serene garden, complete with lush greenery and a swimming pool, is also where you’ll find Suan Bua, the hotel’s charming Thai restaurant. Decked out with wooden furniture, and comfortable, cream-coloured cushions, its interior design ties in well with the natural surroundings, inviting one to enjoy a relaxing meal in this little urban oasis. With a focus on sourcing natural and organic ingredients, the menu Chef Santiphap ‘Por’ Pechwao has put together encompasses traditional dishes from all over Thailand— many of which are difficult to find elsewhere, and bear a long history as well (which the always smiling chef is happy to share). To start this culinary journey around the kingdom, we first indulged in a refreshing Thai samphire and bangkok101.com

crabmeat salad (B390)—samphire being a green shrub found only in the Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram provinces. The salad was soaked in a light coconut milk “dressing”, while the fresh samphire leaves atop added a saltiness to the dish. This was followed by Kapi kua (B290), a dip made of preserved shrimp paste and coconut cream. Originating from the Rama V period, it came served with an assembly of vegetables, including lotus stem, banana blossom, white turmeric, wing and string beans, and eggplant, as well as bite-sized pieces of crispy, grilled fish. Our first main course consisted of Duck curry with eggplant (B450). The ducks—the stars of this dish—are reared in Northern Thailand’s Royal Projects, and lend a deliciously smoky flavour to the mild curry. And accompanying each of the individual courses was a special and wholesome Hom Mali rice, which is organically grown on the slopes around the extinct Buriram volanco in Thailand’s northeast. A definite highlight, in terms of both presentation and taste, were the

large Grilled river prawns filled with spicy clam meat (B790). Traditionally stuffed with crispy pork fat, chef Por swapped the meat for clam, which he stir-fries with red curry paste, dried shrimp, galangal, and salty egg yolk. A fitting ending to this traditional Thai meal came in the form of the tangy Som chun lare ja mongut buarnd Rama II (B250). The citrusy, flavourful syrup, scented with Jasmine flower, is served with pieces of snake fruit and lychee, and is accompanied by two gooey bits of coconut milk and sticky rice candy wrapped in banana leaves. If you prefer a more substantial dessert, opt for the classic Kanom pung sang ka ya bai toey kub i-tim vanilla (B170). Traditionally consisting of toasted bread slathered with sweet pandan leaf custard, chef Por also adds a big scoop of vanilla ice cream for an extra twist. by Julia Offenberger

Suan Bua

LLF, Centara Grand, Ladprao 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 ext. 4068 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com M A RCH 2017 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | review

Up & Above

Sunday buffet brunch that goes above and beyond

Sunday brunch should be on everyone’s weekend to-do list. The perfect antidote to late Saturday night, and a lazy segue into the working week, there’s no better way to stave off the Monday blues. Thankfully, there are plenty of top brunch spots throughout the city to choose from, offering gourmet buffets and bubbles to sip and sup through early afternoon. When the occasion calls for something more refined, there’s Up & Above. This 24th floor restaurant in the five star Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. First, there’s the hospitality of the waiting staff, who warmly welcome me into the modern, spacious venue, built with floor to ceiling windows for up-close views of the city. I’m then taken through the various packages on offer. There’s the Classic Sunday Brunch (B2,600 per adult, B1,050 per child), which includes an international buffet including homemade pastas, Asian favourites, and a selection of cheese and breads, as well as a

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variety of soft drinks and mocktails. Upgrade your brunch, and you can wash down your meal with free-flow Follador Prosecco D.O.C Treviso, as well as a choice of cocktails, beers and wine (B3,300). Finally, there’s the top package, which includes all of the above, as well as Lombard Brut Reference Champagne (B3,900). Onto the food. The buffet area occupies a large corner, providing plenty of space to navigate each station. Though the venue was busy during my visit, there was no jostling for plates or the last spring roll. Instead, the ambience of the place was relatively serene, helped in part by the live string band playing a chorus of classics from the corner. I started with the sushi and sashimi, a live station where I watched a chef prepare fresh plates, before moving on to the Thai selection. Here, I fell for the red curry with roasted duck, barely resisting the urge to go back for seconds. Soups and stews were next, where I found a delicious beef Burgundy—which I highly recommend—as well as a smooth

lobster soup. If you prefer your seafood in solid form, there’s plenty to choose from here too, including French oysters and Maine lobster. Meatier options include a succulent Porchetta and Beef Wellington, served up with all the trappings of traditional Sunday roast. With little room left for dessert, I bypassed the cakes, pastries, fruit, and matcha chocolate fountain, in favour of the ice cream station, where a selection of homemade gelato and wafers were available. I’m told by the hostess that the restaurant makes most of their food in house, with high quality ingredients sourced locally where possible. It clearly makes all the difference, as the brunch buffet at Up & Above really does go above and beyond.by Annaliese Watkins

Up & Above

24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Grocery Gourmands Finding super meals at supermarkets Words and photos by Samantha Proyrungtong

hat if I were to tell you that eating gourmet meals in the middle of a grocery store is a ‘thing’ now? Dine-in delicatessens and bistros integrating with supermarkets/market halls have been happening all over Europe, and now this unique experience has arrived in Bangkok. But unlike their European counterparts, there’s no dividing walls or barriers here—you’re literally dining in the open-space of a grocery store. So how does it taste? We sampled three ‘Dine-In’ outlets to find out if the supermarket industry trend meets global expectation.

YOU HUNT WE COOK Where: Gourmet Market EmQuartier (693/695 Sukhumvit Rd) Price: $+ Concept: Pick your meat and/or seafood directly from the butchery, and have it cooked to your liking. Ask chef for recommendations for a custom made dish or add sauce/sides from their menu (B100 cooking fee with no service charge). Design: Simple, streamline open kitchen design with low seating where you may easily chat with the chef and possess substantial countertop space. Food: It depends on what ingredients you bring to them. I’ve heard some bangkok101.com

customers insisting on nightmarish combinations, but the boys in the kitchen are well in-tune. My rare steak was spot-on! Verdict: Arguably the most flexible counter. Customizing your own meal is fun, as though you have a private chef catering to your personal foodie desires.

THE DOCK Where: Gourmet Market EmQuartier (693/695 Sukhumvit Rd) Price: $$ Concept: Fresh and live seafood counter—brought to you by the folks from Thammachart Seafood— highlighting oysters, seafood platters and European dishes with a Thai twist. Design: High seating that’s great for people watching. Bright and vibrant decor and menu designs with great animation from bubbling tanks. Food: A hit and miss. The kitchen is tiny, so the less complicated the dish the better. The spicy lobster spaghetti (although dry) tasted wonderful, the mussels in wine was a hit—soft, juicy and packed with the aroma of herbs. Just avoid anything in the form of a salad, such as the octopus which was bland and rubbery.

Verdict: An enjoyable place to sit and people-watch. The oyster, lobster and crab are incredibly fresh, so order a glass of bubbly with simple seafood options.

MAISON DE LA TRUFFE Where: Gourmet Market Paragon (GF, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd) Price: $$$ Concept: A luxurious Parisian outlet, brand new to Thailand, which boasts an all-truffle menu. Design: Definitely the poshest place of the three we sampled. We liked the tartan cushioned chairs, shiny golden lamps, and glass cabinets displaying truffle products, although their counter top was so narrow your knees meet flush with the counter wall. Food: The chef’s cooking—I must say—was excellent. They made your basic Caesar salad taste incredible, mostly credited to the fresh truffle. The chicken with mushroom sauce was sumptuous, yet missing the integral component… fresh truffles! (we got canned instead) Verdict: Despite the lack of fresh truffle debacle, and awkwardly designed counter, the dishes were tasty (if pricey). The ambience and service is cold and uninviting, but with more time and love, could greatly improve. M A RCH 2017 | 93

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Francesco Lenzi

Respecting family traditions and the artistry of food preparation

n an era when dining establishments are routinely praised for their contemporary attributes and innovative approaches, it is rare to find one so deeply connected to its decades-long family heritage as Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, on Soi Ruamruedee. True to its name, this fine dining venue emphasises the much acclaimed cooking style of Italy’s Tuscany region, and it is very much the kitchen of owner Francesco Lenzi. The Pisa-born chef’s sterling local track record in running and establishing several popular venues during his nine years 94 | M A RCH 2017

in Thailand led to the opening of his own kitchen about two years ago—a business venture that his parents, Mr. Alessandro Lenzi and Dr. Anna Renzetti, helped him in establishing. Starting out in his pre-teens, Mr. Lenzi has been working the kitchen most of his life, first cooking for himself and those close to him. “I started about age 12,” he recalls. “It interested me right off. The first dish I made was something simple, pasta with pancetta—it was actually not so bad.” “[Some years] later I would be cooking at home for my family and friends, and I saw that they were really

enjoying it. I realized that when you cook something that’s good you can see the happiness on their faces, from their smile. Then I started to cook more often—especially pasta.” Mr. Lenzi spent his formative years in and around Italy—in regions such as Valle d’Aosta, Tuscany, Sicily, Lazio, and Marche—gaining wideranging industry experience cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants, hotels and for high-end caterers. “It was more than 6 years,” he says. “A very good experience learning different cooking styles, like fine dining restaurant versus casual, and bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

different ways of prepping and acting in the kitchen.” Much of the dining experience here derives from the richly-strung network of family, professional training and premium ingredient sourcing that gives the cooking its authentic, regionally-unique character and flavour. As part of his training, Mr. Lenzi attended the elite Gambero Rosso, a culinary school which also publishes a respected magazine that lists the country’s top food and wine suppliers—a kind of ‘Michelin Guide’ of high-quality F&B sources. One listing is a more than 70 year-old company run by his relatives that supplies the restaurant’s supreme quality ham, sausages, cheeses and cured beef. So when he says “My idea is to focus on the Tuscan [style] cooking… and a family theme”, it’s not just marketing speak. “My cousins started this cheese and ham farm in 1945. Everything there is hand-made, all artisanal,” reveals the chef, adding, “I grew up with these products.” For example, the 4th-generation farmers who run the operation raise the cows and sheep using a seasonal grazing method known as transumanza, in which livestock are bangkok101.com

taken to lush highlands during the spring, where they are free to forage for grass and other native plants. Besides being listed in the prestigious Gambero Rosso guide, the farm’s products are certified by advocates of ‘slow food’ cooking, a culinary movement much inclined towards such high quality, heritagesource foods. “So you can understand how all our food is natural, [the result of] real [traditional Italian] life, and that we still [today] have this kind of product. This is a big part of the concept of my restaurant.” Diners can sample these delicious and meticulously crafted flavours in the starter platter of ham, sausage, salami and exquisite cheeses served with a traditional bread basket—a favourite of many satisfied customers—or in the highly recommended pumpkin risotto dotted with buds of sausage. The compact but well-kitted kitchen—fully visible through a pair of large-pane windows—buzzes with well organized chaos as no less than a dozen staff engage in a frenetic ballet amid flame spewing stovetops and cacophony shouted cook’s banter. Inside a stone oven, hypnotically roiling flames consume a stack of imported wood, while beside it a

char-grill, fired by oven-embers, is used for cooking the premium Australian meats and European seafood, allowing the chef to “get the feeling of the fire” and “infuse the ways of the past in my cooking.” Among the delights coming off the grill are Tasmanian grass-fed lamb, sausage from the family farm and huge T-Bone steaks. On the subject of sourcing there is no compromise on quality. “I’m very focussed on where I buy my food. I have to constantly watch the markets, and I’m always searching for new products.” The cozy, custom-built interior exudes understated, rustic elegance in the style of Tuscan Arte Povera, accommodating up to 90 diners on two floors. The warm woodwork and aforementioned cooking fire viewed through glass partitions contribute to the intimate, sparkling ambience, along with thoughtful touches like decorative acoustic ceiling panels that render spirited conversation to a comfortable din. A climate-controlled cellar houses a selection of top-label wines curated by Mr. Lenzi himself, who maintains close ties with some of Italy’s oldest and most respected vintners and suppliers. interview by Chris Michael M A RCH 2017 | 95

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Jae Da’s Atomic Tofu

rom a distance, some of Bangkok’s tastiest restaurants may not look like restaurants at all. Take Jae Da’s seafood restaurant, for example. A club of finely coiffed women, illuminated by the glow of neon lighting, sit gossiping and admiring each other’s hairdos. There’s little sign of the culinary magic that is

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 96 | M A RCH 2017

conjured in the kitchens here. The key is to look for clues. See the large, unhappy looking fish hanging gloomily—and lifelessly—from the ceiling. It’s your first hint this place might be something other than a hair salon. The next clue is likely to waft into your nostrils, as aromas from the kitchen drift past the chattering ladies to perfume Jae Da’s main seating area, which can accommodate just four tables of eager and intrepid diners. Jae Da takes orders, but more often than not gives them, suggesting, sometimes quite firmly, what you should be ordering. On her advice, I opted for a dish called “Super,” which accurately describes the broth concocted from chicken’s feet, Chinese five-spice, and a sour soup like a dark tom yam. It sounds a little weird, but trust me: all who dare dive in will win big time. Next up on my order (or rather the order I received) was grilled pork ribs coated in Jae Da’s special barbecue sauce, which would make even the most cynical diner swoon. Just as I thought I was settling down to a standard, if completely delicious, meal, Jae Da launched a

final assault on the palate with her suggestion (or demand) of fried tofu. It doesn’t sound exciting, but her kitchen foot soldiers wrought an alchemic transformation, giving the tofu a crunchiness perfectly offset with enough smoothness on the inside to mark the beginning of my love affair with Jae Da’s cuisine. Then she delivered her master stroke—the sauces! The first was a standard sweet and sour sauce and the second a salty version including chives floating in chicken broth. Like any great work of artistry, a few basic rules are to be respected. Bring the tofu to the sweet and sour sauce first and then bathe it lovingly in the salty broth. Close your eyes and be prepared to change your entire understanding of what tofu can be. It’s life-changing.

Address: At the corner of Mahanakorn and Siphraya Roads. Jae Da is open from 4pm-11pm. Don’t come earlier, as she’ll be busy arranging her hair and that evening’s outfit. bangkok101.com

SUPPORTED

Arnaud Dunand Sauthier

Umberto Bombana

Luca Fantin

Richard Ekkebus

Julien Royer

Dharshan Munidasa

Ryan Clift

Mingoo Kang

2 Restaurants. 6 Days. 8 World Renowned Chefs. We conclude yet another great collaboration with Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. A big thank you to the great 8 chefs, who dazzled all guests with their culinary talents in this extraordinary guest chef series presented by Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok and FineDiningLovers.com, the online magazine for food enthusiasts, proudly by S. Pellegrino sparkling natural mineral water and Acqua Panna still natural mineral water.

Sanpellegrino waters are proudly distributed by: GLOBAL FOOD PRODUCTS CO. LTD | www.globalfoodproduct.com | T: 02 6831751-4

FOOD & DRINK | making merit

A Future in Food

Khanun offers vocational restaurant training for marginalized youth

idden away in a quiet alley, only a short walk away from Khao San Road, the recently opened Khanun restaurant makes a welcome break from the crazy jostling that takes over Bangkok’s backpacker haven at night. Sitting in a restored 1950s house, complete with a relaxed outdoor area, the intimate eatery can accommodate about 30 persons. Its small, but thoughtfully created menu offers what is termed ‘Creative Local Cuisine’—a mix of Thai-inspired dishes with a twist, using locally sourced ingredients. One such example is the Crispy mixed mushroom salad (B220), contrasted by the Mediterranean touches of soft zucchini slices and creamy pesto—and further illustrated by the refreshing addition of lime juice to the traditional Thai red ice tea shake (B90). While the delicious food itself is certainly a good enough reason to visit, another is the fact that by dining here you’ll also support Bangkok’s marginalized youth. By providing vocational training in cooking and services, the restaurant aims to help kids out of poverty and build a better future for themselves.

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Khanun is a project of Peuan Peuan, the Thailand arm of the organization Friends-International. This NGO, active in several countries, has been developing social business models and child protection elements to change lives and build a future for children, families, and communities. A testament for their success—among many others—are their other vocational training restaurants in Cambodia, Laos, and Ethiopia that have been successfully running for several years. Peuan Peuan (which means “friends” in Thai) are making their mark in Thailand, extending their range of programs that address the obstacles affecting youth unemployment, unsafe migration, child abuse, and lack of access to services in Bangkok and at the Thai-Cambodian border. While there are no strict age requirements to receive the training, the kids are usually aged between 16 and 24 and are trained in the numerous processes involved in kitchen and restaurant service—from food preparation, hygiene, stocking, and labelling, to customer service and communication, English skills, and

working the cash machine. After 12-18 months of both classroom based and hands-on training (the duration really depends on the individual student’s interest and background), the students are then further supported in finding a job in the hospitality industry. Currently there are six students at Khanun working six days a week— from 2pm to 9pm, including one-hour break. While they receive two meals a day, money for transport, health check-ups, uniforms, and tips, any profits of the restaurant are reinvested into Peuan Peuan’s programs of helping children in Thailand. NOTE: The restaurant is also home to a small Friends ‘N’ Stuff fair trade gift shop, giving parents the opportunity to earn fair wages and health benefits by making creative products out of everyday material. by Julia Offenberger

Khanun

53 Trok Rong Mai, Chao Fa Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-10pm Tel: 094 690 3832 www.khanun-restaurant.org bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

FRENCH

to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

INTERNATIONAL

L’Appart Chez Pape

Chez Pape

The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. 2/7, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks

bangkok101.com

One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course. 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., Tel: 02 126 9999 Open daily: 7pm-10:30pm, Lounge, 5pm-1am www.sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at the elegant new La Vie restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination.

Goji Kitchen + Bar

This all-day dining spot also delivers delectable weekend feasts, offering a mix of regional cuisine and Western fare— both à la carte and buffet. LF, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 6am-11pm, Sunday brunch, noon-2:30pm www.marriott.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings 24, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 262 0762, 097 235 8286 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK

Salt Coconut Terrace

Coconut Terrace

This small hotel outlet takes an equally compact menu—five starters, a few soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and creates big flavours. Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, 72/4 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 688 1000 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com

A hipster’s dream, this gastro bar with a post-modern finish offers everything from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire. Phahonyothin 7 (Corner Soi Ari 4) Tel: 02 619 6886, Open: 6pm-midnight www.saltbangkok.com

Elements

An open kitchen gives diners a close-up glimpse into the expertise of the skilled chefs—especially for guests seated at the dynamic ‘Chef’s Table’. The menu itself embraces French cuisine with Japanese influences, and the wine cellar boats 300 labels of boutique and exclusive wines. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Harvest

Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue relies heavily on Mediterranean influences and high-quality seafood.

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Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Wine Connection Tapas Bar & Bistro

Enjoy a variety of tapas and other eclectic menu items, plus a great selection of wines. The elegant yet casual atmosphere makes it suitable for everyone—families, friends, or duos on dates. GF, Rain Hill, 777, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Tel: 02 261 7217 Open daily: 11am-1:30am www.wineconnection.co.th

ITALIAN Don Giovanni

The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neoclassical décor, the culinary approach lends this restaurant a decorous air befitting its operatic name. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 8pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

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listings | FOOD & DRINK The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

MEXICAN

Scalini

Il Fumo

Combining high-grade beef and traditional wood-charcoal grill cooking methods, the emphasis is on delicious smoke-flavoured Italian fare. Go for the charcoal, stay for a cocktail. 1098/2 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 286 8833 Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-1am (kitchen 11:30pm) www.ilfumo.co

La Scala

This fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour.

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Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists. Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 620 6666 Open daily: Noon-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.hilton.com

Theo Mio

The Italian kitchen concept by British celebrity chef Theo Randall, which focuses on exciting seasonal menus created from top quality ingredients. GF, InterContinental Bangkok 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0444 Open daily: 7:30am-midnight www.facebook.com/theomioitaliankitchen

La Monita Taqueria

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for classic, affordable, Mexican fare that still packs some serious fireworks, then check out any of La Monitaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three downtown locales. Load up on guacamole, burritos, fajitas, quesadillas, and soft corn tacos, all washed down with some wonderfully potent margaritas. Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 9581 GF, Siam Paragon, Tel: 02 650 9581 7F, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6238 www.lamonita.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Méjico

The menu tackles traditions long ignored, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer. 2F, Groove@Central World Tel: 02 252 6660 Open daily: 11am-late www.facebook.com/MejicoThailand

139/5 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 655 8995 Open: Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.baanbkk.com

Baan Rub Rong

One of the few restaurants in the area that we can confidently say is worth the effort to track down. A plainly attired, affordable bastion of very good Thai food, made the old-fashioned way. 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) Tel: 02 185 6029 Open: 10am-10pm www.baanrubrong.com

Erawan Tea Room Slanted Taco

Slanted Taco

Owner Jorge Bernal brings the authentic flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok, with many original recipes and handmade Mexican chorizo. Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 0546 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am, Sat-Sun, 2pm-1am www.slantedtaco.com

THAI Baan

This widely popular restaurant offers traditional recipes collected from the chef’s family with the stylishly modern dining room and an open kitchen.

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Known for its amazing high tea, this place also serves traditional Thai cuisine in a nostalgic setting that overlooks the consistently crowded Erawan Shrine. Packaged products and a wide selection of teas from India, China, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are also available. 2F, Erawan Bangkok Mall, 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open daily: 10am-10pm, Afternoon Tea 2:30pm-6pm www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

The brick-walled warehouse turned veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore.

899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: 7am-10pm Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

CAFÉ

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite, is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

bangkok101.com

The view by night—and by day—at Vanilla Sky rooftop bar

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE the sky’s the limit

The newest rooftop venue to grace the Bangkok scene is VANILLA SKY, located high atop the 35th floor of the COMPASS SKYVIEW HOTEL (Sukhumvit Soi 24). This breezy, open-air venue, with space for up to 200 guests, offers sweeping 360 degree views of the city, and a massive marble bar, backlit with coloured LED lights. Live DJs add the necessary groove, and signature cocktails are created with flair—try the Taste of Asia, a combination of vodka, kaffir lime-infused syrup and lychee with a dash of black pepper. Open daily from 5pm till 2am, with Ladies Night every Wednesday. www.compassskyviewhotel.com

the eight is great Even though the nightlife scene on Sukhumvit Soi 11 is going through some turbulent times—WOLFF’S has closed, as has THE ALCHEMIST, and pretty soon CHEAP CHARLIE’S too—there’s still new life being breathed into this popular nightlife stalwart. Just last month saw the opening of 8 ON ELEVEN, a swank new gastrobar with a dance floor upstairs, located just across the road from the Old German Beerhouse. Expect wicked signature cocktails (8 of them, in fact), international DJs, and lots of “little black dresses”. There’s even some outdoor seating available, and a menu of tantalizing snacks—from steak to sashimi. www.facebook.com/8oneleven

irish eyes are smiling When ST. PATRICK’S DAY rolls around, on March 17th, the whole world turns Irish. Here in Bangkok there are loads of drink spots ready to ply you with Guinness, but only THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN, located on the ground floor of the FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON hotel (4, Sukhumvit Soi 15), extends the celebration over five days— offering Irish-themed food specials daily starting from March 13th. Then, on the 17th, get ready for all-day Irish-themed drink specials and a party starting at 7pm featuring a live band, lucky draws, and plenty of Jell-o shots. www.fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com

the year of the rooster If you’re still in the mood to celebrate Chinese New Year—and why wouldn’t you be— the newly opened Chinese-themed DIM DIM bar (Soi Phrom Chit) has taken over the spot once occupied by Bao & Buns. The cozy, candlelit space evokes an atmosphere of Oriental retro, complete with Chinese tea boxes, waving lucky cats, and lots of red. The bartenders, meanwhile, whip up creative cocktails that add Chinese twists, and make use of some delectable house-made spirits—try a signature drink using either the infused chrysanthemum vodka or the rosemary-infused bourbon. The simple bar snacks also adhere to the Chinese-theme. Open Monday to Saturday, from 6:30pm to 1am. www.facebook.com/dimdimbarbkk

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Duke

Gaysorn’s new art gallery is also a haven for whisky and cigar aficionados

wood-framed glass door on the first floor of the recently rebranded Gaysorn Village separates the mall’s boutiques from Duke, a warehouse-like space covered in paintings and sculptures. Hundreds of vibrant artworks and sculptures, from the likes of Sakarin Krue-On and Manit Srisuwan, speckle the raw concrete walls and floor. All were curated by Tawatchai Somkong, editor-in-chief of Fine Art Magazine and a friend of the Water Library Group, the bright minds behind not just Duke, but some of the city’s top food and beverage outlets as well. And that, in fact, should be an indication that this is no ordinary gallery. Duke also doubles as an exclusive whisky and cigar lounge. At the back of the gallery, behind small tables surrounded by rich leather chairs and sofas, stands a bar stocked with some of the most premium spirits in town, many exclusive to Duke and not all whisky. Smoky Speyside single malts, such as the very rare Balvenie 30 Year Old (B5,000/glass), whiskies from the Highlands such as Glenfiddich 12 Year Old (B330/glass),

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and even lesser-known single malts from Taiwan, Japan, and France are available. To a serious spirits drinker, however, some of the rarer finds will be of greater interest. These include a currently off-menu 30 year-old Gelas Bas Almagnac, which has a beautiful fig-like sweetness on the nose and a surprisingly light body, as well as Clearach from Michel Couvreur—a sweet, floral French Scotch aged in old sherry casks that goes down smooth (B690 glass/B8,600 bottle). The drinks list isn’t limited to neat spirits, either. The lounge offers a wide selection of weizens, lambics, lagers, and bocks from Belgium and Germany; a handful of classic cocktails made with premium ingredients—from the Negroni to the Boulevardier; and wine and champagne as well. And as the project seeks to link the parallel lines of art appreciation and whisky and cigar appreciation, there’s no shortage of imported tobacco to choose from, including Cuban Cohibas (B1,8002,400) and Dominicans from Davidoff and Cusano. Of course, the best privileges— access to Duke’s private rooms,

which are filled out with the finest of the lounge’s fine art, the plushest of its plush leather seating, and high-quality ventilation systems that leave nary a trace of smoke—come with membership. Duke offers three tiers for members, starting at B50,000 for its Silver package and rising to B300,000 per year for the highest tier, Platinum. All three offer absolute privacy. There’s no CCTV here, and if they wish members can use exclusive washrooms and take elevators that lead directly from the gallery to the parking lot, so they never even have to step foot in the mall if they so choose. Duke doesn’t just offer an alternative perspective to contemporary Thai art—in just three months, it has already reinterpreted the relationship between art and life’s indulgences. by Craig Sauers

Duke

1F, Gaysorn Village 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn bangkok101.com

connoisseur corner | NIGHTLIFE

Monsoon Valley Harvest Festival

Luca Martini

Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

t’s harvest time this month at some of Thailand’s wineries and, in fact, they’re celebrating the harvest for the entire month at Monsoon Valley Vineyard (Formerly Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, see pg. 56). The on-site viticulture team here is all set to offer visitors many interesting activities, including picking the freshly ripened grapes from the grapevines, a chance to do some actual grape stomping, and a special “from grape to glass” wine journey. There will also be live jazz from noon to 4pm every weekend this month, but the biggest highlight of all is the annual Harvest Dinner, which will be held on Saturday the 11th from 4pm to 9:30pm. This feast for the senses—priced at B3,500 net, limit of only 80 seats—will delight food and wine aficionados with a delicious 4-course dinner, paired with award-winning Monsoon Valley wines. In addition, for entertainment there will be Thai dancing and live music. To reserve your spot call 081 701 0222, or visit www.monsoonvalley.com. If you find yourself in the Khao Yai area on Saturday, March 4th, Village Farm Winery—in Wang Nam Khieo—is holding their annual Harvest Festival. The program starts with a welcoming wine tasting in the vineyard at 5:30pm, accompanied by a string quartet performing classical music. At 7pm a grand dinner will be served, complemented with a selection of vintage wines. Then, at 8pm, the winemaker will lead a walk through the vineyard while a special “night harvest” takes place, and at 10pm there will be a special grape stomping ceremony (and some cheeses and desserts on the side). For more bangkok101.com

information, and/or reservations, call 081 877 3711 or visit www.chateaudesbrumes.com. Closer to home, as part of the Italian Festival in Thailand 2017, the Embassy of Italy and Texica Wine importers present A Journey of Wine Professionals at the Anantara Siam Hotel. The event takes place over two days—March 31st and April 1st—and runs each day from 1pm to 5pm. The event is more than just a wine tasting. It will consist of two half-day workshops hosted by Mr. Luca Martini (voted World’s Best Sommelier 2013). The journey aims to teach budding wine professionals about tasting techniques, cellar management, wine presenting tips, food and wine pairings and, in general, the overall uniqueness of Italian wines. Participation fee is B15,000 per person. To register, email narumpa@texica.co.th or call 089 799 3499. Finally, G Four Fine Wines celebrated the finale of the art show by Italian artist Sergio Voci (left), held at the Sathorn 11 Art Space, with a lovely wine dinner at About Eatery (Ocean Tower 2, Sukhumvit 21,a Soi 3). Guests enjoyed a menu overseen by Giulio Saverino—sommelier and owner of the restaurant—which showed off the talents of his new chef, Edoardo Bonavolta. To add to the pairing of art and wine, the bottles were outfitted with special labels designed by the artist himself. M A RCH 2017 | 107

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS

Coyote’s

About Eatery

The bottom line is this: if you are a wine lover, you’ll love this place. It’s a warm and welcoming bar and restaurant that specializes in Mediterranean fare and artisan wines made using natural, biodynamic, and organic methods. GF, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21, Soi 3 Tel: 081 920 0740 Open: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am www.abouteatery.com

A long-standing Mexican restaurant and bar, where the margaritas flow like water—specially during ladies’ night— and the meals always satisfy. Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 3313 Open daily: 12pm-2am www.coyotebangkok.com

Face Bar

This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion. It’s a dimly-lit joint that summons patrons with cozy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails that aim to please. 29, Sukhumvit Soi 38 Tel: 02 713 6048, Open daily: 11:30am-1am www.facebars.com

Bronx Liquid Parlour

This half-hidden tippling spot brings something of a higher class of cocktail culture to the Thong Lor strip. Stylish interiors and exotic cocktail menus make it even more distinctive—a perfect combination of Tokyo, New York, and London in one bar. 8, Thonglor Soi 25 Tel: 02 036 6071 Open: Tue-Sun, 7pm-2am www.bronxbkk.com

57 Soi Prasarnmitr, Sukhumvit 23 Rd. open 11.30-14.30, 17.30-22.30, Tel. 02 259 9593

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Inblu Bar

A themed bar, focusing on fortune telling and Thai legends, offers a unique cocktail menu, as well as live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. 2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily: 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

House of Beers (HOBS)

J. Boroski Mixology

Gypsy Spells Bar Bronx Liquid Parlour

Penny’s Balcony, Tel: 02 392 3513 1F, Groove at CentralWorld, Tel: 02 613 1322 La Villa Aree, Tel: 02 613 0572 Aree Garden, Tel: 02 617 1600 INT Intersect, Tel: 02 682 6400 Nawamin Festival Walk, Tel: 02 907 0934-5 www.houseofbeers.com

This Belgian-leaning chain of bars offer all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapas-style bar snacks.

7th Fl.,The Emquartier, Sukhumvit open 10.00-22.00, Tel. 02 003 6267

4th Fl.,The Emporium, Sukhumvit open 10.00-22.00, Tel. 02 664 7525

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location.

e-mail :ledalat@ledalatbkk.com www.ledalatbkk.com Le Dalat Restaurant

@Le_Dalat

ledalatrestaurant

bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits. 125, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk

Shades of Retro

Amorosa

A sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun in the distance. 4F, Arun Residence Hotel 36-38, Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd. Tel: 02 221 9158 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.arunresidence.com

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.minorhotels.com/en/avani/riversidebangkok

Shades of Retro

It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lor hotspot, stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and plenty of antiques. Soi Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 714 9450 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.facebook.com/shadesofretrobar

Smalls

Decorated with vintage furniture and art, giving it a true bohemian vibe, this wellloved, three-storey neighbourhood drink spot offers a wide selection of beers, wines, and hard-to-find liquors, as well as, the occasional live jazz band. 186/3, Suan Phlu Soi 1 Tel: 095 585 1398 Open: Wed-Mon, 8:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/smallsbkk

ROOFTOP SKY BAR amBar

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com bangkok101.com

Cielo Sky Bar

A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com

Long Table

Known for its massive communal dining table – you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F, 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 11am-2am www.longtablebangkok.com M A RCH 2017 | 109

NIGHTLIFE | listings

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am, (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly stands out from other sky bars in the city. 31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.bangkok.hilton.com

Sky On 20

At this new, and very stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

ThreeSixty Lounge

Go sky high in style above the Chao Phraya River at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s grand rooftop venue. With

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CLUB Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Cé La Vi

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair, one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other

bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE does Techno & House decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

Queen Bee

The Penalty Spot

A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok

The Penalty Spot

SpeakerBox

Onyx

An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. Tel: 081 645 1166 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.onyxbangkok.com

Sing Sing Theater

Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, Sing Sing Theater transcends the limitations of our nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit Soi 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater

PUBS The Drunken Leprechaun

Cosy, atmospheric crowds form here mostly to check out live sports on TV, drink beer on draft, and watch the passing parade. Sukhumvit main road between Soi 27 and 29 Tel: 02 661 6164 Open daily: 3pm-2am www.facebook.com/thepenaltyspot

LIVE MUSIC Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

Brown Sugar

The Royal Oak

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. bangkok101.com

GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Maggie Choo’s

The city's latest bar to enjoy local and rotating imported craft beers as well as some cool cocktails and snacks while kicking back and checking out some of Bangkok’s best local indie bands and artists at this compact, casual semi-open air venue. Ratchada Train Market (Rot Fai) Tel: 084 662 6642 Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or afterdinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com M A RCH 2017 | 111

LIFESTYLE |

Taking a liking to biking at Ryde spin studio 112 | M A RCH 2017

bangkok101.com

| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE life cycles Once the cool weather disappears it will become too hot in Bangkok for all but the most die-hard cyclists, but that’s just good planning on the part of the recently opened RYDE, a spin studio offering high-intensity cardio workouts fit for both beginner and advanced cyclists. Located on the 3rd floor at SEEN SPACE (Thong Lor Soi 13), the studio offers drop-in prices of B950 per class—45 minutes each—and packages of 10 classes starting from B9,500. In addition, the on-site LOADED JUICE BAR serves cold-pressed juices, infused waters, and protein shakes. www.rydecycle.asia

beauty by the book The BEAUTY LIBRARY, a newly opened vintage style salon (10/8-9, Sukhumvit Soi 33), is serious about making you look good. For hair colouring and perming they are the first and, currently, only salon in Bangkok to use the UK’s Organic Colour Systems products. Meanwhile, for nail services expect brands such as OPI, Jessica, Pregel and Cuccio Naturale. They even use allergy-free glue in their eyelash salon, which is run and supervised by SATOMI OUCHI, a Japan Lash Association certified instructor and owner of Belle Beaute. The salon is also open late—every day from 9am to 11pm—for those last minute fashion emergencies. www.facebook.com/thebeautylibrarybangkok

infinite relaxation The city’s Silom area has a new contemporary urban day spa facility that boasts a stylish ultra-modern industrial design sensibility, courtesy of a team from Chulalongkorn University’s Faculty of Architecture. Open since January, the INFINITY SPA—located at Sun Square (1037/1, Silom Soi 21)—offers spa services as well as beauty treatments, such as manicures and pedicures, providing a 5-star spa experience at affordable prices. Opt for their one-hour Relax-atherapy package, or go for broke with the three-hour detox program that includes scrubbing, massage, and facial. www.infinityspa.com

swedish workout If getting fit is your goal, then perhaps working out under the guidance of Swedish trainer HENRIK OLOFSSON—who won the ‘Fittest Man in Thailand’ award from 201416 at the regional Crossfit Games—is a good place to start. His custom designed training experience is now available at HAUS NO.3, which just recently opened its doors as part of the NAIIPA ART COMPLEX (Sukhumvit Soi 46) in the Phra Khanong district. It’s described by the owners as a workout studio born from a vision to create a worldclass training experience that integrates technology with design and craftsmanship— including handmade equipment—in a home-like environment. www.hausno3.com

bangkok101.com

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LIFESTYLE | spa deals

Happy Hours at I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok | 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

Make yourself comfortable with the outstanding promotion currently on offer at I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club, located on the 5th floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. Give the skin you’re in a little reward with an unforgettable 90-minute treatment. It’s a rejuvenating one-hour session with a soothing half-hour follow up. Treatment times are between 9am and 3pm, from Monday to Thursdays, from now until the end of March. With special prices starting from B3,500++ there’s no reason to put it off any longer… so why wait?

So Beat the Heat at SoSpa Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com

There’s nothing better than treating your skin to some perfect pampering. At SoSpa, located on 11th floor of the Sofitel Bangkok, guests can indulge in a two-hour magical moment, beginning with a 30-minute Hom Mali jasmine body scrub, to gently remove dead skin, followed by a 30-minute program—unique to SoSpa—called Skin Renewal Wrap, designed to give your skin a super moisturizing and sparkle. Finally, wrap it up with a 60-minute Hydrating Skin Drink Fluid Facial for B5,500 net per person. These promotions are available until April 30th.

Get Ready To Detox, Retox, and Repeat at Away Spa W Bangkok | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.whotels.bangkok.com

Get ready to come away glowing, starting with a program called the New You Massage (B3,999++ per person), which includes a 30-minute Coffee & Yogurt Body Scrub, a 60-minute Detox Fluid Massage, and a 30-minute Charcoal Mini Facial. Meanwhile, the 90-minute Detox Couple Massage (B4,999++ for 2 persons), features a 60-minute detox massage, and 30-minute White Jasmine Facial. Other outstanding programs include the 90-minute Get Your Glow On massage, priced at B3,199 per person, and the 75-minute Detox Me Massage (B2,799++ per person).

One Hour Early-Bird Awakening Treatments at Chi, The Spa Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok | 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd. Tel: 02 236 7777 | www.shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila

Chi, The Spa, provides an early-bird awakening package for guests, inviting them to indulge in special pampering treatments. Priced at just B1,900 net per person, guests can fill their peaceful morning with an array of packages that will act as a perfect prelude to the long day ahead. Select one of the spa’s many 60-minute treatment choices, which include the unique Jasmine Rice Body Glow body scrub, the signature Oriental Foot Massage, and a very special Thai Massage. Each treatment is available from 10am to 3pm, Monday to Thursday.

Sensory Awakening Quan Spa

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel | 518/8 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 125 5100 | www.renaissancebangkok.com The Quan Spa offers a wide variety of treatments, from body wraps and aromatherapy massages, to deep cleansing and age intervention facials. Indulge your body with a delightful spa experience, and enjoy a premier massage treatment that will leave you feeling relaxed all day long. Try the signature Sensory Awakening package (120 minutes for B2,950++), which includes a red seaweed body scrub, Oriental fusion massage, foot massage, and a complimentary shower gel. It might just be the most unforgettable spa experience you’ll ever have.

Nano Shiso Therapy at Thann Spa Gaysorn Plaza | 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1423 | www.thann.info

Thann has introduced the use of the Nano Shiso particle as a major ingredient in their custom Sanctuary Signature Treatment. This 130-minute treatment, priced at B4,300, is followed by a relaxing Lymphatic Facial Massage to aid in detoxification, and finished off with a Nano Shiso Moisturizing Mask to protect and moisturize facial skin. The mask treatment is further customized by adding three special ingredients—created for three different skin types—guaranteed to bring back your skin’s natural balance. It’s just one more reason to visit the newly re-modelled Gaysorn Plaza.

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bangkok101.com

spa review | LIFESTYLE

n the blink of an eye, winter is over. Bangkok had a couple of cool evenings and the rain has stayed away, but these were just fleeting moments of reprise from the sweltering heat of the months before. Now, with summer firmly on the horizon, the city is getting ready for the hottest of seasons, doing what it can to keep cool as the mercury rises. One such solution can be found at So Spa, the luxury wellness retreat tucked inside the five star SO Sofitel hotel on Sathorn Road. From March 1 until April 30, 2017, the facility is offering a promotional two-hour Beat the Heat package (B5,500, reduced from B7,300), designed to deeply cleanse the body as it sweats through the summer—moisturizing and hydrating from head to toe. It’s also the perfect place in which to escape the suffocating heat for an afternoon, boasting a beautiful interior inspired by the mythological ‘Himmapan Forest’ from classic Thai literature (as well as seven unique treatment rooms). Though my experience here begins with a refreshing cup of hot ginger tea, and an in-depth consultation into my skin type and music preferences, it is bangkok101.com

So Spa upon entering Anodarth—a double treatment room equipped with a dressing area, large bathtub, shower/ steam room, and spectacular views of Lumphini Park and the infinity pool below—that my visit goes from great to wow-worthy. I take a moment to observe the lush, green vista laid out in front of me, fringed by a skyline of modern architecture in the distance, before beginning the treatment with an exfoliating foot ritual at the hands of my skilled masseuse. She’s attentive without being intrusive, checking in on me throughout the two hours to ensure I’m comfortable (and I am— these are the coziest massage tables I’ve ever experienced). The Hom Mali Jasmine Body Scrub is up next, gently removing dead skin cells using ingredients known to purify and refine the skin, including Jasmine rice—which brightens and removes dullness—and Jojoba oil and Shea butter to provide deep nourishment. To moisturize and lock in the youthful glow that the scrub delivers, a 30-minute Skin Renewal Wrap is applied. This multi-faceted body wrap targets symptoms of a dull complexion, dehydration, and

ageing skin all at once, using powerful black mulberry extract combined with essential oils to detox, rejuvenate and brighten the body. But the focus of this package is on the face, which enjoys one whole hour of pampering with the SkinDrink Fluid Facial. As dewy as the name implies, my polluted pores are thoroughly cleansed using a soft foam wash and a gentle electronic brush, then scrubbed, moisturized, and firmed using a selection of light, fragrant lotions and potions—each containing powerful properties to combat the effects of ageing. With a brief but blissful upper back massage, I’m eased back into the world, a little more relaxed and a whole lot cooler than when I entered. I take one last look at the spectacular view through the room’s full length windows before de-robing and stepping out to join the sizzling city once again. by Annaliese Watkins

So Spa

11F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 10am-10pm M A RCH 2017 | 115

LIFESTYLE | digital nomads

The Work Loft

A versatile co-working space servicing a diversity of professionals

he ideal work environment depends as much on each person’s preferences as it does on the activity itself; some like it silent while others can’t work without background noise, and brainstorming might call for different surroundings than drawing up a business plan or writing an article. As a result, creating a suitable shared work space, for different people with different jobs and different daily activities, is not an easy task. Coming pretty close to attaining this objective, however, is The Work Loft, a multi-purpose co-working space on Silom, right next to the Sala Daeng BTS station (and quite close to the Silom MRT station). Its industrial chic interior, complete with exposed brick walls and large glass and steel windows, is decorated with large, and colourful paintings, giving the space a warm and homey atmosphere, yet keeping it clean, without major visual distractions. Spanning over three floors, the large co-working space can accommodate more than 100 people at once, and is equipped with standard and counter height desks, comfortable seating areas, plenty of power outlets,

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and high-speed internet capability. Other facilities include lockers, pantry areas with free water, tea, and instant coffee, private telephone booths, and printer access. To cater to different needs, each floor provides a different environment, enabling professionals to thrive in their preferred surrounding. While the 4th floor is super quiet, the atmosphere on the 5th is more casual, with music playing in the background. The top floor, meanwhile, is home to a lounge area, complete with sofa and TV, as well as the Loft Café & Bar—offering reasonably priced coffee, and drinks— and an outdoor terrace. Especially popular with start-ups, a total of 17 private offices can be rented on flexible monthly contracts. Spread throughout the three floors, each office ranges in size between two and eight people, and comes equipped with desks, chairs, internet, lockable doors, interior and exterior windows, as well as 24h access. On request, company and VAT registrations are also available. Meetings, workshops, and presentations can all be held in one of the six meeting and event rooms,

all of which are equipped with HDTVs and whiteboards, and range in size to seat between 8 to 20 people. For larger functions, an event room on the 6th floor—outfitted with a large HD display, microphones, and a speaker system—is suited for about 50 guests, while for networking events, the entire floor can be used to welcome up to 150 attendees. Regarding pricing, there are different membership packages available, ranging from a daily B300 hot desk, to monthly membership deals starting from B3,000 per month for a co-working space. Becoming a member also includes benefits such as 24h access to The Work Loft (instead of 8am to 8pm for day-to-day guests), printing allowance of B200/month or more, as well as at least two hours’ access to the meeting rooms. by Julia Offenberger

The Work Loft

5F, 281/19-23, Level 4-6 NST One Building, Silom Soi 1 Tel: 02 631 1699 Open daily: 24 hours www.theworkloft.com bangkok101.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that Hua Hin will be hosting a fantastic jazz festival this month? Some of the greats from the international music scene, as well as some amazing local acts, will be taking the stage over the course of two days during the True Jazz Festival, taking place at the True Arena (52/52 Petchkasem Rd). On Friday March 24th The Bangkok Brass Band kicks things off at 7pm, followed by the Thailand All-Stars Jazz Orchestra, the Benny Golson Quartet featuring Joris Teepe, and headliners Cory Henry and The Funk Apostles. On Saturday March 25th, the infamous Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band starts things rolling at 6pm, followed by The Yellowjackets, Soul After Six, and a very special appearance by Al McKayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Earth, Wind & Fire Experience. Tickets are B2,000 per day, or you can get a two-day pass for B3,500, and tickets are available at www.thaiticketmajor.com. For more coverage of Hua Hin, see our special travel feature starting on page 48. Top: Cory Henry and The Funk Apostles; Above left: Benny Golson Quartet; Above right: The Yellowjackets; Below: Al McKayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Earth, Wind & Fire Experience

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