Gillick's World: Reflections in China -Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi

Reflections in China Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi

Things are Heating Up in Hunan Danxia Mountains Ancient Towns Scaling the Heights of Guangdong Letting your Hair Down in Guangxi The Longji Rice Terraces Guilin, Yangshuo, Nanning

The Magazine for Those who Choose to Explore the World

For Those Who Choose to Explore the World

Exploring China: Hunan, Guangdong and Guangxi Provinces

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Greetings from the Publisher Things are heating up in Hunan Hunan’s Incredible Danxia Mountains Qianjiang Ancient Town Hongjiang Ancient Town The Grape Festival in Puhai County Phoenix Ancient Town Scaling the Heights of Guangdong Guangzhou Danxia Mountain in Guangdong Kaiping Diaolou Let your hair down in Guangxi Province The Longji Rice Terraces Guilin Li River Cruise to Yangshuo Nanning

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Gillick’s World - Toronto, Ontario, Canada Front Cover: After a quiet breakfast by the river, a local and his dog greeted us as we disembarked from our cruise through the Fuyi Scenic Spot Back Cover: The farm area where the local and his dog reside

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The Travel Perspective In April 2015 I was invited to return to China. We flew to Guangzhou, the captal of Guangdong Province where on the first morning, while wandering the neighbourhood. I happened upon a small alleyway of houses as well as a morning market (and I love the atmosphere of morning markets!). I then joined the group to explore the city. We were fortunate to meet local officials for lunch and discussion, which was also where we learned the ‘proper’ way to honour your hosts with drinks. As you ‘toast’ your host, you compete with them to click glasses—as low on the glass as possible—to show your deference to the other person. After many such toasts, the meal experience takes on whole new meaning.

Exploring Gillick’s World!

This is the second issue of Gillick’s World, the magazine for those who choose to explore the world.

My stories and photos reflect the passion and enthusiasm that travel inspires. I’ve visited over 620 destinations in 72 countries-to date so I guess that’s a lot of inspiration!

Gillick’s World covers main attractions, off-the-beaten-track wonders, the people I met, niche market interests, food and drink. The magazines energizes the concept of ‘Terroir Tourism’; the idea that every destination is a unique reflection of local history, culture, people, geography, flora & fauna.

My first trip to China was in the summer of 2000 where I joined an adventure group to explore Yunan Province as well as Beijing, Xian, Guilin and Shanghai. In October, 2014 I was invited by the China National Tourism Organization to attend the Hunan International Tourism Festival. It was an amazing trip that got us up close and personal with Danxia mountains and spectacular scenery along the way. We also visited the Ancient Towns of Qianyang, Hongjiang and Fenghuang (Phoenix).

I will say that Phoenix is a photographer’s paradise.

Our first visit was in the evening when it was lit up – and pumped up—with tourists and locals visited the many shops, bars and restaurants. We returned the next morning to a slightly more sedate but equally engaging atmosphere with locals from the Miao and Tujia minorities setting up their stores and washing their clothes in the Tuojiang River. By 8:00 am tourist groups were already taking boat trips on the river, seeing the stilt houses and the pagoda, visiting the historic sites, browsing in the shops, buying ginger candy and sampling the local foods.

We also explored Danxia Mountain in Guangdong— where a few of us climbed to the summit (rather than take the cable car). The ascent was refreshing, and energetic with amazingly steep staircases--but absolutely worth it. We also spent a fascinating day discovering the towers in Kaiping Dialolou.

Taking the train to Guilin (Guangxi Province) we saw the main city attractions. The next day we took the Li River cruise to Yangshuo to gawk at the incredible Karst landforms. This was followed by a day trip to the mesmerizing Longji Rice Terraces where we had the opportunity to learn about the Yao and Zhuang Minorities. Our last day was spent in Nanning--a pretty amazing place to visit—from the ethnical garden, to the mountain park and on to the night market.

There’s just so much to absorb in the small towns, rural villages, big cities and natural areas of China.

Each visit serves as a prologue to the next. I think you’ll see what I mean in this magazine. Enjoy!

For further information on China visit www.CNTO.org

Here’s looking at you. Some guests liven up the Hunan International Tourism Festival in Long Shan.

Houses on stilts line the Tuojiang River in Phoenix Ancient Town (Feng Huang)

Things are Heating Up in Hunan Things are certainly heating up in the province of Hunan. The red hot chili pepper is the star ingredient of Hunan cuisine, but the spirit of hot, spicy and savoury activities characterizes many aspects of this fascinating area of China from the mountain views, accessible by a mere thousand (or so) stairs, to ancient cities such as Fenghuang, a.k.a Phoenix, which in the spirit of fiery regeneration, continue to rise from the ashes on a fairly regular basis.

Hunan’s provincial capital of Changsha is about a 90 minute flight from Shanghai. Along the way the curiosity of visitors is titillated with sneak previews of mountains, rice terraces and a patchwork quilt of farmland.

On arrival we met our guide and immediately set out on a 4 ½ hour bus ride south to Lang Shan, a town bedecked in colourful banners to welcome delegates to Hunan’s International Tourism Festival. And the next day, despite a slight drizzle, we sat outdoors to watch the opening ceremonies of the festival, complete with honorific speeches from local officials and pleasantly interspersed with dramatic, colourful and entertaining performances that celebrated stories and myths of some of the local minority groups including the Tujia, Miao, Dong and Uyghurs.

Local performers took to the stage at the Opening of the Hunan International Tourism Festival in Lang Shan This article appeared in a different format in www.travelindustrytoday.com

Ascending the 99 steps to the summit of Camel Peak in Langshan.

The next day, despite a slight drizzle, we sat

Afterward we had the privilege to connect with the dramatic landscape. We visited the Pepper Peak Scenic Area, part of Mount Lang Shan.

We walked the cliff side pathways and climbed the hundreds of stairs between Candle Peak and Camel Peak, including a crouching stair climb through a dark rock crevice called the Dragon Mouth.

The mountain peaks are part of a landform called ‘Danxia’ that consists of red sandstone that has eroded over the centuries into columns, resembling chili peppers, candles and camels. (The formations recall the Karst (limestone) landscape in Guangxi Province).

The 99-Step Ladder is the final stage of the climb to the top of Camel Peak with four serendipitous surprises in store.

The first surprise was the small alter at the top dedicated to the local hero, Yang Kuifa who in true Robin Hood style, stole from the rich and gave to the poor. Eventually he was pursued by local officials and killed for his alleged transgressions. A small wooden statue pays tribute to his adventures. According to local legend, those who visit the site are bestowed with happiness, longevity and safety.

The second surprise was the view, and despite the steamy, humid, overcast and humid conditions, the panorama of trees and mountains was exhilarating.

The third surprise was that after climbing hundreds of stairs, we now had to descend a whole new set of stairs where mountain views competed for our attention as we tried to negotiate the uneven steps.

And the fourth surprise was what is known as the Danxia Linear Valley—a narrow crack in the mountain through which the staircase descends, allowing visitors to get a true look at the forces of nature from inside the mountain.

The Dragon Mouth-A tilting linear valley

Danxia Linear Valley

Tianyi Alley, formed along a rock fracture, known as the First Lane in the World

We began the next day with a boat ride on the Zijiang River where the Fuyi River Scenic Area includes a number of rock formations including the General Rock. After the ride, a walk around the village provided a window into rural life.

Right: the Fuji River Scenic Area, raft-boats that ply the river with tourists, the 75 m tall General Rock that towers over the river, exploring local village scenery after the boat ride

After the boat ride we were promised a ‘gleaming glow’. Let me explain. We started our climb, passing by the Danxia Sheer Cliffs that are absolutely massive at 100 meters high and 300 meters long. We soon reached Tianyi Alley, a 239 meter long path with stairs and walkways that cuts through a mountain where ‘only a gleam of light is in sight’ and hence the gleaming glow. This was followed by a walk through Yuxian Alley, another narrow passageway covered in green moss and lichens and where your shoulders brush the rocks on either side as you pass through the narrowest sections.

In the afternoon we headed out to the Bajiaozhai Scenic Area. 1777 steps lead to a viewing platform where 8 rounded mountain peaks mystically huddle together and occasionally poke through the mist and clouds. We thought of the concept of Yin and Yang. Yin is the suffering, which for us was climbing all those steps in the humid heat of the day, after gorging ourselves at lunch time. The Yang is the reward: awesome views of the 8 peaks from the viewing platforms. Then Yin steps in again (literally) as our legs are now wobbly from the morning and afternoon climbs and we descend the 1777 steps. The Yang is the amazing experience and the feeling of accomplishment.

For lunch one of the owners of our hotel in Lang Shan, the Hong Ji Hua Tian Hotel, invited us to a private banquet of sumptuous local cuisine.

I gingerly picked out those searing red chilies with my chop sticks but a few snuck past the inspection and definitely livened up the dishes. The delicious meal featured rice tea, cucumber juice, daikon radish, funghi, jelly fish, curry chicken, chili duck with lemongrass and duck blood, pork blood tofu, duck with seaweed, shrimp egg custard, spicy eggplant, pancake and steamed rice.

And we ate everything!

Statue in the Tianxin (Center of Heaven) Buddhist Temple built in the Yuan Dynasty in Bajioa Zhai Park. People pray for good harvests and good luck

The Ancient Town of Qianjiang: a maze of alleyways, shops and historic houses.

The Ancient Town is famous for its history of prostitution and opium.

Designated sites showcase short performances that depict of life in the town, complete with music and costume.

The Ancient City of Hongjiang where you can try out the opium den (yes that’s me in the photo), visit one of the ‘relaxation’ houses, see the depictions of family life, court rooms, and the Sheng Feng Private Bank.

We were welcomed with great fanfare at the Grape Festival in Puhai County

The Grape Festival featured singers, dancers, magicians, a sword swallower and some really good wine

Traditional Miao foods in Phoenix Ancient Town

Making ginger candy—stretching (above) and then pounding (right)

Bars and restaurants galore on the side streets and alleys

The most impressive of all the ancient towns is Fenghuang, also known as Phoenix.

Dating back to 1704, the town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site with its mix of riverside houses on stilts, modern and crumbling buildings, boats plying the Tuo Jiang River, Miao women washing their clothes in the river in the early morning or selling flowers once the tourists arrive, men pulling on wads of gooey sweetness that will become ginger candy, and a veritable Disneyworld of shops, bars, discos and restaurants. At night time, all the buildings in the city come alive with lights, while during the day the city is a group tourist mecca.

Miao woman

The Miao Ethnic Minority Dancing Show – Timeless Love of Fenghuang

GUANGDONG PROVINCE

When the elevator doors opened on the 107th floor of the Canton Tower we immediately spotted the bright orange Bubble Tram; a ride that affords spectacular views of the city of Guangzhou, 428 meters below. However, our focus turned to the sign that cautioned: “Psychotics and alcoholics are not allowed on the Bubble Tram”.

I like to think that this, along with the fact that we still wanted to visit the 112 th floor observation deck, accounted for our not taking the tram.

But we got our fill of heights and sites while in Guangdong Province, which sits on China’s mainland next to Hong Kong and Macau. Aside from the Canton Tower, we gawked at super tall buildings, climbed Mount Danxia in the north, and stood on the watchtowers of Kaiping Diaolou in the South.

This article appeared in a different format in www.travelindustrytoday.com

Guangzhou sunrise on the Pearl River

Guangdong is China’s most populace province with 107 million people; Guangzhou the capital, houses 7 million. But for those travellers who cringe at the prospect of having to elbow their way through lineups and crowded streets while constantly muttering hmm ho yee see (sorry) and megoi (excuse me), opportunities abound to enjoy moments of reflection in the alleyways, markets, parks, mountain paths, bamboo groves and on the shores of lotus ponds.

We flew from Toronto to Shanghai and on to Guangzhou before checking into the Hotel Landmark Canton. My 17th floor room had a perfect view of the Pearl River, which wends its way past the hotel and seemingly disappears into the downtown core of the city.

The next morning while exploring the area, I came upon an old neighbourhood where small well-lived-in houses huddled along a narrow maze of streets. I wandered past entrances decorated with posters of door gods, to discourage evil spirits from entering; strings of laundry hanging across laneways, tiny vegetable and flower gardens, and even a few curious cats.

Hotel Landmark Canton, Guangzhou

A small market featured tables of cut-up pork, whole chickens and live carp as well as carts filled with vegetables, taro and bananas. A large wire-mesh container held a dozen or so plump green frogs. An assortment of sausages hung on display racks near a shop where towers of circular wooden trays, each filled with fresh steaming buns, emitted a pleasant scented mist.

Steaming bread in the morning market

Exploring Gaungzhou: The 600 meter Canton Tower is the third tallest in the world. After visiting the upper decks we drove across the river to Huacheng (Flower City) Square to take photos of the Tower from ground to sky, as well as the neighbouring 440 meter tall Guangzhou International Finance Centre.

Haucheng Square is home to the children’s museum and the beautifully designed public library. The square is a great place to stroll and stop at one of the coffee shops.

The Guangzhou Library, called the city’s “Living Room”

The Canton Tower from Huacheng Square

Yang Nian Da Ji–greetings for ‘Good Fortune in the Year of the Goat’ appear in Huacheng Square

The Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall pays tribute to the founder of the Republic of China.

After a visit we headed for Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street. This is a major shopping venue that goes on for blocks, and features shops, restaurants, street statues that reflect life in the 1920’s and 30’s, theatres, loud music, noisy barkers and hundreds of people shopping, strolling or just hanging out.

Our day in Guangzhou ended several hours later with a relaxing and colourful evening cruise on the Pearl River.

Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall with inset of China’s founding father

Door gods are believed to prevent evil spirits from entering.

Scenes from one of Guangzhou’s neighbourhood alleyway morning markets

Scenery through a curtain of bamboo

Danxia Mountain, a UNESCO World Heritage site is about 3 hours north of Guangzhou. Danxia refers to landforms of red sandstone that have eroded over the years and now appear as sculpted rocks and sheer cliffs. Our first stop, the Yang Yuan Mountain (also known as the Male Rock), is one of the more popular attractions. At 28 meters high and 7 meters around, this rock formation resembles a phallus. While tourists position themselves for group photos and provocative selfies in front of the rock, some locals kneel before an alter, to light incense and pray for fertility, for themselves and family members.

A lakeside lunch featured home cooking: fried chicken (with the head of the bird staring at us), mushroom and bamboo soup, steamed asparagus, fiddleheads, red peppers and bok choy, fat rice noodles on a bed of mountain greens drizzled in oyster sauce, and small fried river fish. It was very tasty and quite typical of the delicious food on which the province prides itself. For a digestif, we tasted 50 proof ‘Shi Hu Jiu’ a local rice wine that added some ‘zing’ to an already wonderful day.

The Yang Yuan Mountain a.k.a. Male Rock

Danxia landforms in the misty distance include “Teapot” Mountain

A boat trip through the Danxia landscape

Ascending one of the very steep staircases on the way to the Sun Viewing Platform on Danxia Mountain

About 1/3 of the way to the top. The sign says “Danxia”

When we reached Danxia Mountain, some of our group took the cable car, while three of us decided to climb to the Sun Viewing Pavilion on the summit. It was an easy–to-moderate ascent, punctuated by some pretty steep staircases. One staircase had a chain available so visitors could haul themselves up from one step to the next. After about 45 minutes we reached the top, caught our breath, and took in the exhilarating views of the Danxia landscape.

Kaiping Diaolou lies two hours south of Guangzhou. The name “Kaiping” literally means “peaceful new area” and the attraction in this UNESCO World Heritage site is the “Zili” (self-reliance) Village which includes 92 houses and 9 watchtowers.

The buildings were constructed between 1837 and 1912 (Qing Dynasty) as homes for émigré landlords, with towers to protect their properties against roving bandits. The reinforced concrete multi-story houses (called ‘diaolou’) contain period furniture and family memorabilia, while the adjacent lands are dotted with lotus ponds. Nearby in Li Garden there are mansions, gardens, a canal, villas, bamboo groves, bridges and walkways…ideal for sauntering and reflection.

GUANGXI PROVINCE

The Guangxi Museum in Nanning features porcelain from the Five Dynasties. This vase is from the Qing Dynasty 1736 -1795

The women of the Yao Minority in Huangluo Village cut their hair once in their entire lifetime. At the age of 16, before they get married, they unwrap what appears to be a shiny, black turban around their head to reveal tresses that often reach1.7 meters (5 ½ feet) or longer. After marriage, they grow their hair again as a harbinger of good fortune, longevity and wealth (a kind of ‘hairway to heaven’). In days gone by, only their husband and child were allowed to see the lengthy locks but today, the idea of letting your hair down takes on a whole new meaning as the hair is the featured attraction in cultural shows for tourists.

The Yao Minority Village, representing one of 12 ethnic groups in Guanxi Province, lies in Longsheng County, two hours north of Guilin, which has long been regarded as one of China’s tourism meccas.

Yao Minority Women wrap their 1.7 meter long hair

As part of the cultural show, the Yao women reveal the full length of their hair.

This article appeared in a different format in www.travelindustrytoday.com

The Longji (Dragon’s Back) Rice Terraces behind a strand of Bamboo trees

After the cultural performance, we sampled local rice wine, before heading to the famous rice terraces and Jinzhu Village, home to members of the Zhuang minority.

While the majority of tourists (thankfully) headed to the cable cars to get an aerial view of the terraces, we took the road less travelled—actually a walking trail that slowly curves up the mountain, offering spectacular views of the terraces, up close and personal. th

The Longji rice terraces were first cultivated in the 13 century as an efficient means of growing rice on a mountain. Terraces decrease soil erosion while increasing opportunities for irrigation.

The nickname, Dragons Backbone Rice Terraces, refers to a mythological vision of nine dragons meeting five fierce tigers on the mountain slope. The terraces look like the dragons’ scales while the mountain ridge resembles the backbone. On misty days, it is said that the dragons can be seen galloping in the clouds over the mountain. The spectacular scenery changes with the seasons, so this is an ideal destination for travellers seeking to unplug, to contemplate, daydream or simply to stare sheer beauty in the face.

As we continued walking, the clucking chickens, crowing roosters, nosey dogs and curious children seemed to announce our arrival in Longji Ancient Zhuang Village. The Village museum provides an excellent overview of Zhuang culture, including “the four treasures of Longji”, all of which are products of the high mountains and cold climate: 1) Cloud and Mist Tea 2) rice wine 3) glutinous rice and 4) red hot chili peppers.

Top Left-Approaching one of the houses in Longji Ancient Zhuang Village. Top Right: Most doors have either a depiction of the Door Gods or the words ‘happiness’ or ‘blessing’ to ward away evil.

Bottom Left: Stairs going up the side of an old wooden house.

Bottom Right: a traditional kitchen in one of the homes.

The city of Guilin is the major attraction in Guangxi Province. The Li and Peach Blossom Rivers wend their way around streets lined with Osmanthus and Cinnamon trees, and all against a backdrop of awesome karst hills. The photo shows Elephant Trunk Hill, the symbol of the city, where the rock is said to resemble an elephant drinking from the Li River.

Nearby Elephant Trunk Hill, just past the ‘good luck’ Rooster and Dragon shrine, are the ‘love’ statues: cloth and wire models of couples, including the memorable scene from the movie Titanic. In the lower left, a woman is holding a bamboo pole, just as a cormorant (inset) fisher-person might do. Tourists can pay to have their photo taken.

Morning walks in Guilin: A market hidden on a side street near our hotel, the Grand Link.

Vendors sold a variety of vegetables as well as chicken and pork.

Nearby, there was a park with pathways leading to ponds full of barking frogs.

And everywhere you turn in Guilin, you see the karst hills that have attracted tourists, writers, poets and artists for centuries.

Reed Flute Cave is filled with stalactites, stalagmites and unusual rock formations.

Coloured lights illuminate the rocks as you follow a path into the main chamber, where a video, projected on the ceiling depicts the history of the 180 million year old cave from its formation, through the roar of the Jurassic era, to its discovery 1200 years ago.

In the evening small tour boats travel through the city’s four lakes, two rivers and under the historic bridges.

They pass by the illuminated Sun and the Moon twin pagodas (inset) and stop by a number of cultural performance venues.

Most visitors to Guilin take the four-hour day cruise on the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo. This is one of the best opportunities to photograph the absolutely stunning karst formations that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Along the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo

Yangshuo, formerly a haven for backpackers who wanted to get away from it all, is a very busy town that oozes shops, restaurants, wax museums and cafes.

Pretty well all of the tourists from the 100 or so boats that departed Guilin that morning can be found traipsing through the streets. But there are some shady, quiet areas by the riverfront where you can relax, enjoy a coffee or beer and compose your thoughts

In the cool of the Yangshuo evening we attended “Impression Sanjie Liu”, performed in the world’s largest natural theatre with the Li River as the stage and twelve karst hills as the backdrop. The performance is colourful, dramatic, impressive and very popular.

The Guangxi provincial capital, Nanning, is about three hours south of Guilin. We explored the tranquil Nanning Ethnical Garden that showcases culture and heritage of the five local ethnic groups. Above: The Drum (Tinbal) structure honouring the Zhuang Minority. Below: Qing dynasty tea cup (overturned for detail) in the Guangxi Provincial Museum

The Qing Xiu Shan Scenic Spot on the mountain overlooking Nanning includes a rare Cycad garden (complete with a dinosaur), golden camellia plants, a 9-storey pagoda, a lake with lots of goldfish, and a beautiful temple.

The evening theatre performance in Nanning portrays a love story shared by many of the ethnic minorities in the city.

Nanning’s Night Market: flavours and colours with locals and visitors munching on crab, prawns, oysters, squid, crayfish, chicken, pork and an array of local tropical fruits.

“I never read…I just look at pictures” --Andy Warhol Get in on the ground level of Gillick’s World emagazine as we pursue a unique storytelling destination series. We get rid of the usual travel ‘wall of words’ and emphasize the pictures that tell the story; allowing you in turn to imagine and dream of yourself at the destination.

The kabuki influence is emphasized at Aomori’s Warasse Nebuta Festival Museum.

GILLICK’S World titles include 1) 2) 3) 4)

Ireland China Japan (3 Issues) Colombia

But we are growing month by month. Down the road many more destinations will be featured. After all, I’ve travelled to 72 countries so far.

Graffiti in Galway. Craic (‘krak’) refers to fun, conversation, good times and friendship.

My first travels took place in 1967—the same year as the Beatles Sgt. Pepper album. That alluring line “Picture yourself in a boat on a river with tangerine trees and marmalade skies…” captured my imagination and, coincidentally I wrote my first travel article during that trip. The power of the imagination and dreams of “I would love to…” are the stimulus for travel. Gillick’s World puts it all within your mind’s grasp.

-Steve Gillick, Publisher, Gillick’s World

The magazine for those who choose to explore the world For a free subscription, please contact steve@gillicksworld.ca

steve@gillicksworld.ca

Countryside near the Fuyi River Scenic Area in Hunan