Monday, June 20, 2011
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Experts offer tips for better gas mileage By Joe Taschler Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
MILWAUKEE — With apologies to any and all excellent drivers under the age of 20, auto shop teacher Eric Varrelmann has this straightforward advice for motorists who want to save money on gasoline: “Stop driving like a teenager.” Translation: Avoid sudden stops and starts. Don’t drive aggressively. Slow down. The return of $4-a-gallon gas has renewed interest in fuel-efficient cars and also called attention to moneysaving driving techniques — things that didn’t seem to matter so much when gas had tumbled to more-affordable levels during the recession and its aftermath. It’s a given that buying a fuel-efficient car makes greater financial sense when gas costs a lot. Consider, when gasoline costs $4 a gallon, a hybrid that averages, say, 45 miles per gallon and is driven a typical 15,000 miles a year will cost $1,333 for fuel during that year. A conventional compact car that gets 25 miles per gallon will cost $2,400 for gas to cover those same miles — $1,067 more than the hybrid. And covering the same ground in an SUV that gets 15 miles per gallon would cost $4,000 for fuel — $2,667 more than the hybrid, and $1,600 more than the compact. The differential explains why smaller cars helped d r ive automa kers to improved sales during April as oil and gas prices were surging.
Beyond trading in your car for something smaller or more efficient, there are many tried-and-true methods for getting every possible mile out of every gallon of gas, no matter what kind of car you drive. “Everyone comes in the door and complains about their fuel economy and what can they do about it,” said Varrelmann, the automotive instructor at Arrowhead High School in Milwaukee, who has been working on cars for 32 years. The solutions aren’t exciting, but taken together they can make a big difference — hundreds of dollars per year in fuel savings.
Slow down
Each 5 miles per hour you drive over 60 mph is like paying an extra 24 cents per gallon for gas, when gasoline is selling at $3.96 per gallon, according to the government’s fueleconomy.gov. “Think about sticking your hand out the window at 30 mph and sticking your hand out the window at 70 mph,” said Ted Bohn, a research scientist at the Argonne National Laboratory in Lamont, Ill., and an adjunct engineering instructor at the University of Wisconsin in Madison. “There’s a lot more force on your hand. That’s the same force that your wheels have to push the car forward, and it goes up exponentially” at higher speeds. Slowing down a bit also can keep an engine running at its most efficient level. Pushing it harder costs more. “The engine is working harder to maintain that faster speed so it’s going to use more fuel to do that,” said Mark Griffin,
service adviser at Hands-On Garage in Milwaukee. “If you decrease your speed, you will save gas. That’s pretty much just a given.”
Check your tires
“An underinflated tire is going to have more rolling resistance,” Griffin said. “If you have four tires that are severely underinflated and you air them up, you could save yourself quite a bit of fuel.” Varrelmann said he and the students in automotive classes push a lot of cars around. He can always tell when a car’s tires are underinflated because pushing it becomes more difficult. “If it’s hard for me to push, it’s going to be hard for the engine to push as well,” he said.
sively and brake harshly and idle a lot and warm up your car for 5 minutes before you drive, you won’t get the baseline fuel economy — the expected fuel economy. You’ll get less than 100 percent on this quote-unquote ‘exam.’”
HEED THE ‘SERVICE ENGINE SOON’ OR ‘CHECK ENGINE’ LIGHT Griffin has seen many drivers ignore warning lights because their car seemed to See GAS, Page 2
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Change the oil regularly With today’s computercontrolled engines, using the proper oil is important. “Each engine is designed to run on a designated oil,” Griffin said. “Using the oil that is recommended is going to increase the efficiency of the engine, and in turn is going to increase your fuel efficiency. You might not see drastic numbers, but in watching fuel efficiency, every little bit is going to help.” Bohn likens the situation to an exam in school. “Is there anything I can do to get better than 100 percent on an exam? No. But every point that I miss, my score goes down,” he said. “It’s pretty certain that if you don’t inflate your tires, you won’t get expected fuel economy. If you drive aggres-
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Page 2 / Monday, June 20, 2011
Gas From Page 1
be running fine. “There could be a thousand different reasons why that light comes on,� he said. “It’s important to have that checked and have that problem fixed so it doesn’t cut into your fuel economy. “If you have a bad oxygen sensor, your fuel mileage could be really suffering just because that computer on the vehicle isn’t operating at optimum efficiency,� he added. That points to the complexity of today’s engines. “It is a complex puzzle that has to come together,� Varrelmann said.
Don’t haul extra stuff around Golf clubs, extra weight that you added for more traction in the winter, the landscape blocks you bought over the weekend then forgot about — all can hurt gas mileage. “The rule of thumb is for every 100 pounds of stuff you carry, (you lose) another mile per gallon,� Bohn said. Manufacturers have realized this.
Tallahassee Democrat / OnTheMOve “The automakers are just doing everything they can to shave weight off a car,� Varrelmann said. Additional pointers from fueleconomy.gov: n Avoid excessive idling: “Idling gets 0 miles per gallon,� the site points out. n Use cruise control: “Using cruise control on the highway helps you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will save gas.� n Plan and combine trips: “Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer multipurpose trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm.� Planning, though, is often easier said than done, especially with the frenetic lives many of us lead. “What’s the easiest way to save fuel on your trip to work? Leave earlier,� Bohn said. “A lot of people say, ‘I’m running late for my meeting. I have to pick it up another 5 to 10 mph.’ If, on your trip, you save maybe three minutes, by driving 10 mph faster, just leave three minutes earlier.� In the real world, he acknowledges, that’s often easier said than done. “That’s a hard thing — planning ahead.�
Ford to launch 3-cylinder engine for small cars By Greg Gardner DETROIT FREE PRESS
DETROIT — Ford Motor Co. will produce a 1.0-liter, three-cylinder EcoBoost engine and a new 8-speed transmission sometime in the next two years to raise the fuel economy of its small cars, company executives said Thursday. Derrick Kuzak, head of global product development, declined to say which Ford model will get the new engine or transmission. He also declined to say where Ford will make the products, other than to say the new transmission will be made in the United States. But Ford is escalating efforts to take fuel efficiency to the next level. Three-cylinder engines have been widely available in Europe and emerging markets, but the only other car Americans can buy with a three-cylinder engine is the Smart fortwo, which has a 1.0-liter
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Derrick Kuzak, head of global product development, declined to say which Ford model will get the new engine or transmission. engine. Ford showed a concept car, the Start, at last year’s Beijing Auto Show that featured a 1.0-liter three-cylinder. The 1.0-liter would be offered in Ford vehicles throughout the world, Kuzak said. EcoBoost engines combine turbo-charging and direct-injection fuel technology to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and provide about 20 percent better fuel economy than larger engines. Ford launched its first EcoBoost engine in 2009 on the Taurus SHO sedan, and has since offered it in the Flex, Lincoln MKT and F-150 pickup, as well as on three mod-
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OnTheMOve / Tallahassee Democrat
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Tallahassee Democrat / OnTheMOve
With its Quest, Nissan steps off familiar path By David Undercoffler Los Angeles Times
Nissan nails unconventional. One has only to spend some time driving the all-electric Leaf, the spunky Juke crossover or the anomalous Murano Cross Cabriolet to know this is a company that takes risks — and succeeds from them. So one would think such a forward-thinking carmaker would have no trouble bringing innovation and appeal to the table when it came time to redo something as blase as a minivan. Nope. The Nissan Quest returns to the United States for 2011 after a yearlong hiatus. This fourth-generation model is a little uncomfortable to look at and a chore to drive, and even its most redeeming feature, the interior, is marred by questionable ergonomics. One wonders whether it should have stayed away for another year. To be fair, this new Quest, which starts at $28,550 for the base S model, wasn’t explicitly designed for the U.S. market. Technically, this is a rebadge job; Nissan sells the original version in Japan as the premium Elgrand. This sets it apart from competitors such as the Toyota Sienna, Honda Odyssey or Chrysler Town
and Country, which were designed specifically for the recovering U.S. minivan market. Not h i n g a b o ut t h e Quest’s styling indicates it belongs to the Nissan family, yet it yells MiNivaN at you with the caps lock on. it’s narrower and taller than its peers, and the rear end is unapologetically boxy. The body cladding between the wheels hangs low, giving the impression it’s carrying a litter of mini minivans. Beneath the Quest’s hood sits a great 3.5-liter v- 6, which makes 260 horsepower and 240 poundfeet of torque. a derivative of this engine is found throughout Nissan’s lineup and that of its luxury division, infiniti, and it’s a stellar piece of engineering. Pity, then, that such a worthy engine, even in a minivan, is paired with such a worthless transmission. it’s a single speed, continuously variable transmission, unlike most competitors, which use five- or six-speed automatic transmissions. Because it’s never shifting, the transmission gets noisy when pushed toward its redline, say, while passing another car on the freeway. it also seemed to sap power from the engine when accelerating from a standstill. at the point where you
2011 NISSAN QUEST LE n Base price: $28,550 (including destination charge) n Price, as tested: $43,740 n Powertrain: 3.5-liter DOHC, 24-valve V-6; continuously
variable automatic transmission n Horsepower: 260 at 6,000 rpm n Torque: 240 pound-feet at 4,400 rpm 0-60 n Acceleration: 8.0 seconds (according to Car and Driver magazine) Curb weight: 4,548 pounds n Wheelbase: 118.1 inches n Overall length: 200.8 inches n EPA fuel economy: 19 mpg city/24 mpg highway n Final thoughts: The quest continues for Nissan’s minivan would expect a minivan with a geared transmission to shift into second, the Quest enters a black hole of torque, and the rate at which you were speeding from that stop sign slows noticeably. This will annoy everyone but those with the most pastoral of driving habits. Nissan doesn’t provide zero to 60 acceleration times, but Car and Driver magazine says the Quest reaches that speed in 8 seconds, which is around half a second slower than its peers. The Quest doesn’t even gain a bump in fuel economy with this transmission either. The Environmental Protection agency rates the van at 19 miles per gallon in the city and 24 mpg on the highway. after 375 miles i saw 17.8 mpg. By comparison, i averaged 19 mpg with the six-speed automatic in the Honda Odyssey i tested in January. On the road, in addition
to the noisy transmission, the advantage of having large side-view mirrors is overshadowed by the commotion they create. Otherwise, the Quest drives and handles with the comfort expected of a minivan, without other flaws or strengths to denote. Step inside the Quest and you’re treated to an attractive, functional, wellbuilt space. Mostly. The biggest difference between this Nissan and others in this class is the functionality of the seats. in most vans, the third row of seats folds backward into the trunk well. in the Quest, they fold forward, as do the second row of seats, creating a completely flat floor for cargo without removing any seats. after a week of throwing in bikes, surfboards and the odd houseplant, i came to appreciate the ease with which you can transform the Quest from passenger-friendly to cargo-
friendly. Folding seats this way does make the cargo floor higher, so on paper the overall interior volume is less on the Quest than other minivans. But this deficiency is really only relevant if you regularly stack your cargo high. The Quest seats only seven, whereas most other minivans today seat eight. Headroom and legroom is generous throughout the cabin, even in the third row when the middle seats are pushed all the way back on their tracks. The fit and finish in the premium $43,740 LE model i tested was superb, and the amenities were befitting its price tag and similar to the layout and materials found on infiniti vehicles. The 8-inch touch-screen navigation system comes standard on the LE and features redundant buttons just below the screen. The system also features a 9-gigabyte hard drive, Bose sound system, XM traffic and weather updates, and a backup camera. also included is a DvD entertainment system, a blind-spot monitoring system and xenon headlights. The only option was the $1,350 moon roof package with two separate openings — one in the front and one in back. Yet this classy and intuitive layout was marred by the placement of the transmission’s shifter, and indeed this flaw exists on
all new Quests. Because it is mounted high on the center console, to the left of the audio and climate controls, the shifter blocks the driver’s view of these buttons. it also means drivers regularly smack their hands into the shifter when they go to use the buttons. The base Quest S features keyless entry, wood trim and a six-disc stereo system. The $31,700 Sv adds items such as 16-inch alloy wheels, Bluetooth, power sliding doors, iPod connectivity, tri-zone climate control and a backup camera. The $35,150 SL includes a power liftgate, leather seats, heated front seats and mirrors and 18-inch alloy wheels. all 2011 Quests come with front- and side-impact airbags, anti-lock brakes and traction control and received the highest rating of “good” from the insurance institute for Highway Safety. So the 2011 Nissa n Quest is safe, functional and priced competitively against the rest of the segment. For some buyers, this will be enough to put them in the driver’s seat. But those paying close attention to the rest of the segment will find that the Quest’s flaws run deep in comparison, and it just doesn’t have the moxie that Nissan has injected into its other products.
GM expands Chevrolet Volt orders to all 50 states, lowers price By Chrissie Thompson Detroit Free Press
DETROIT — General Motors opened up orders for the Chevrolet volt to all 50 states recently, lowering the base price for the 2012 model by about $1,000 and adding four option packages.
The 2012 volt will start at $39,995, including delivery, and customers may be eligible for a $7,500 federal tax credit. GM was able to lower the base price because the car has more optional content now that it’s available nationally, the automaker
said recently in a statement. The 2011 volt had been available in eight states and Washington and had only three option packages. GM is expanding volt ordering as it prepares to add two shifts worth 2,500 jobs to the plant on the Detroit-Hamtramck, Mich.,
border that builds the car. volt engineers are seeking to cut the car’s cost through powertrain and production improvements, which will mostly be used to make the car profitable, rather than slash the price for consumers. GM plans this year to build
16,000 of the volt and its European version, the Opel ampera. That includes about 3,500 for overseas delivery and 2,500 as demos at dealerships. Next year, GM plans to build 60,000 volts with 45,000 designated for the United States. The volt plant this spring
discontinued its other two cars, the Cadillac DTS and Buick Lucerne, leaving it free to build just volts until the 2013 Malibu starts production next year. The factory also will assemble the next-generation Chevrolet impala, expected to start production by 2013.
Monday, June 20, 2011 / Page 5
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Coupon not valid with any other offer. Must present coupon at time of purchase. Limit one coupon per person. Coupon does not apply to prior purchases. Other Restrictions my apply. Void where prohibited.
Page 6 / Monday, June 20, 2011
Tallahassee Democrat / OnTheMOve
Monday, June 20, 2011 / Page 7
OnTheMOve / Tallahassee Democrat
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Page 8 / Monday, June 20, 2011
Tallahassee Democrat / OnTheMOve
2011 Lexus CT 200h offers a sporting demeanor By Steven Cole Smith
The Lexus CT 200h is no Mazda Miata, but it is kind of fun to drive, especially when you select the “sport” mode, which the Lexus manual says to use “when high levels of response and feeling are desirable.” The levels aren’t that high, but it does at least remind you of another semi-sporty hybrid, the Honda CR-Z.
McClatchy-Tribune News Service
After having only one model of the Toyota Prius since it was introduced as a 2001 model, the company is finally making use of the Prius hybrid platform for other models. Late this summer, we’ll get the larger Prius V, followed by the Prius C, a smaller, sportier entry-level hybrid entry. In early 2012, we should get the Prius plugin model, which boosts battery capacity. Available right now, though, is the 2011 Lexus CT 200h, which shares plenty of bits and pieces with the Prius. The CT 200h is a fourdoor hatchback, resembling a larger Mazda3 — it doesn’t look like the Prius, or even a Toyota, or for that matter, a Lexus. That isn’t a criticism — the CT 200h is a handsome, European-looking car that is reasonably roomy on the inside, but still has a sporting demeanor. It also doesn’t feel like a Prius, which is definitely a compliment. As much as I respect the Prius’ technology and stellar fuel mileage, I’ve never much enjoyed driving one. The Lexus CT 200h is no Mazda Miata, but it is kind of fun to drive, especially when you select the “sport” mode, which the Lexus manual says to use “when high levels of response and feeling are desirable.” The levels aren’t that high, but it does at least remind you of another semi-sporty hybrid, the Honda CR-Z. While the CT 200h does share a lot with the Prius, there are differences. The Prius is more than five inches longer, and the wheelbase is four inches longer. As you would suspect, the Prius is roomier inside, but the Lexus will swallow up four adults — five in a pinch — and 14.3 cubic feet of luggage. The Lexus’ interior is nicer, and even the base model has plenty of features. Still, if you get the base
Tim Andrew/ Lexus/mCT
2011 LEXUS CT 200H n Base price: $29,120 n Price as tested: $35,694 n EPA rating: 43 miles per gallon city driving, 40 mpg high-
way
n Engine: 1.8-liter, four-cylinder gasoline engine with an
electric drive motor for 134 total horsepower.
n Transmission: Continuously variable automatic. n Length: 170.1 Inches n Wheelbase: 102.4 inches n In a nutshell: Handsome, easy on gas, more fun to drive
than a Toyota Prius, but is it really a Lexus?
model CT 200h, which starts at $29,120, that’s it. To get any additional features, you have to upgrade to the Premium model, which is $1,780 more. To that you can add one of four separate packages of options, ranging in price from an extra $723, to $5,598, if you simply must have illuminated door sills and remote starting. Check every box on the order sheet, and the CT, with shipping, lists for $40,641.
Even so, this is easily the cheapest Lexus, as the IS 250 starts at $32,645. Is the Lexus CT 200h really a Lexus, then? It almost seems like it may have been a more appropriate flagship for the Scion line, rather than the entry-level model for Toyota’s luxury brand. Our test CT was a Premium model, with enough options to bring the list price to $35,694. As on so many hybrids, the manu-
facturer felt compelled to tweak the instruments and controls to mimic a video game — there’s an odd, annoying little transmission shift lever on the dashboard, and the navigation system is accessed by a mouse-like device that requires thumbclicks to spell out a destination. Yes, it all works, but it’s unnecessarily precious. Besides the aforementioned “sport” mode for driving, there is a “normal” mode
for everyday travel, and an “eco” mode that maximizes fuel savings, at the expense of some performance. There is also an “EV drive” setting that allows you to drive at low speeds, for very short distances, on electric power only. It’s good for sneaking into the garage if you return home past curfew, but not much else. The EPA rates the CT at 43 mpg city, 40 highway and 42 combined, though I fell a
few mpg short of that in my tests. Mileage isn’t as good as a Prius, but the Lexus has other attributes — not the least of which is the Lexus nameplate — which make up for the mileage. One final note: The CT 200h is built in Japan, and while Toyota is working hard to restore its facilities there, few would be surprised if the CT 200h is in short supply through the summer.
Monday, June 20, 2011 / Page 9
OnTheMOve / Tallahassee Democrat
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Page 10 / Monday, June 20, 2011
Tallahassee Democrat / OnTheMOve
Enlightenment about engine lights By Brad Bergholdt McClatchy-Tribune News Service
Question: Can you explain how my check engine light works? It seems the more I hear about this the more I am confused. Is it OK to drive when it’s on? Answer: You’re not alone! This little orange light is the most perplexing component ever added to an automobile. A Check Engine light, also called a Service Engine Soon light, is officially referred to as the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) in the automotive emissions regulations specifying its use. In a nutshell, the MIL illuminates if an emissions related fault occurs.
To understand the oddities in MIL function, I’ll need to torture you a bit with a history lesson: Beginning in 1980 on some vehicles and phased in sporadically on others through 1996 (light trucks 1997) an illuminated light on these vehicles indicated an open or short circuit in the engine control system’s sensors or circuits, or in some cases a severe rich or lean fuel system problem. Typically the light would come on when the fault occurred and go off if the fault went away. Government mandated onboard diagnostics (now referred to as OBD-1) appeared in 1991, but there was little,
Under the hood if any, standardization between vehicle manufacturers regarding trouble codes, terms and diagnostic tools. OBD-I was limited to finding only glaring faults in a part of the vehicle’s systems. OBD-II changed all this in 1996/1997 requiring far more stringent testing of vehicle systems and standardization of how and when the MIL might light, trouble code definitions, component terms and more. The MIL on an OBD-II vehicle lights if any fault occurs that
may cause exhaust emissions to exceed 150 percent of the mandated standard. This can be due to a faulty sensor, a wiring problem, an engine misfire, fuel vapor leakage, or degraded catalytic converter, among other possible faults. Approximately six test sequences, known as monitors, check engine operation and a variety of different component areas. Some monitors run continuously while others are at certain times/vehicle conditions, so a fault could result in an immediately illuminated MIL, or another fault may take several days or even longer to be indicated. A jiggled apart connector on
the throttle sensor would be instantly flagged, while a loose gas cap may take days or longer to get your attention. OBD-II differs also from the earlier systems in how/when the MIL may turn off. Once a fault is identified, the lamp will remain on until three successful tests are performed without incident. Depending on the monitor, this could be today or next week. A reconnected TP sensor connector might extinguish the light later in the same day, while tightening the gas cap may not produce results until the fuel tank reaches a certain level and a stubborn-to-run monitor clicks
off three successful tests — maybe a week? The most troubling aspect of the MIL is one can’t be certain if a fault is of high or low importance to be fixed. If your MIL lights steadily, and the engine runs normally, try tightening the gap cap, wait a week, then make a repair appointment if it doesn’t go out. If the MIL flashes and/or the engine runs rough, this needs fixing right away! — Brad Bergholdt is an automotive technology instructor at Evergreen Valley College in San Jose, Calif. Readers may send him email at under-the-hoodearthlink. net; he cannot make personal replies.
How often should you flush transmission; diagnosing a squeal By Paul Brand Star Tribune (Minneapolis)
Question: I’ve seen where you recommend a transmission flush every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, and your Alldata automotive database even shows this at 15,000 for some vehicles. How is that reconciled with what the owner’s manual says? For my Dodge Caravan, the recommended interval is 60,000 miles if you tow or provide taxi or police service. Otherwise, it says 120,000 miles. For my Ford Escape, the interval is 150,000 miles. Why does the owner’s manual say this, the dealer says something else, and other shops have their own opinions? In my case I’m thinking 120,000 and 150,000, respectively, but there must be some middle ground between where I’m paying hundreds of dollars unnecessarily and
where I still do enough to keep the vehicles going. The second question is about the term “flush.” My Dodge and Ford dealers both say you need the fluid changed (drop the pan, change the filter, replace the pan, top the fluid) and to never ever flush the transmission or it will cause a failure. I recently had a flush done on my Caravan at 66,000 miles using the transmission pump via the cooler lines to slowly replace the old fluid with new. It seems to me this shouldn’t be a problem, but when I mentioned it to the dealer service guy, he berated me for ruining my transmission. What kind of flush do you think is best, and why do the dealers say this is wrong? Answer: Excellent questions — thank you. And wouldn’t you be surprised to be pulled over by a
Q&A “soccer mom” squad car? My thinking on all fluid changes on an automobile is framed by a single question: Who owns, pays for and is responsible for the vehicle, the owner or the carmaker? Second, fluid changes and flushes done before significant depletion, deterioration or oxidation of the fluid is cheap insurance against failure. It is for precisely this reason that carmakers recommend more frequent changes under “severe” service conditions. Paying $150 to $200 for a transmission fluid change or flush sounds much better to me than $2,500 for a new transmission. There is evidence of problems caused by automatic transmission fluid changes or flushes at high
mileage. Specifically, the detergent action of fresh automatic transmission fluid can dissolve or loosen oxidized deposits in the unit’s hydraulic system, blocking the flow of fluid. That’s why I suggest the 30,000-to-50,000-mile fluid flush intervals. In terms of method, dropping the transmission pan for cleaning and installing a new filter, then topping up the fluid, is not a fluid change. It’s a filter change. Exchanging 100 percent of the old fluid for new fluid via the transmission pump and cooler lines is a fluid flush that will remove old fluid and contaminants from the transmission — as long as it’s done regularly. I need to point out that many modern automatic transmissions are sealed and not user-serviceable. These require specialized equipment at dealerships
and professional shops and are obviously more costly. nnn
Q: Can you suggest a fix for our “squeal?” We have a ’99 Olds Bravada, with the 4.3-liter engine, that has a high-pitched squeal in the engine compartment. I have tried two different new serpentine belts, replaced all equipment that is attached to the belt, and replaced the pulleys. The only pulley not replaced is the smooth pulley on the water pump. It’s driving my wife nuts! A: Start by identifying whether the squeal is due to belt slippage or a pulley and bearing. While taking care to keep fingers and clothing away from the belt, with the engine running and the “squeal” squealing, spray aerosol brake cleaner directly on the ribbed side of the belt
first, then the smooth side right where it contacts the smooth water-pump pulley. Did the squeal stop? If so, it’s slippage or misalignment. If not, it’s one of the ancillary devices driven by the belt. To identify which, carefully place the probe of a mechanic’s stethoscope — or a long screwdriver or dowel rod — on the body of each device driven by the belt and listen for the squeal. — Paul Brand, author of “How to Repair Your Car,” is an automotive troubleshooter, driving instructor and former race-car driver. Readers may write to him at Star Tribune, 425 Portland Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minn. 55488 or via email at paulbrandstartribune.com. Please explain the problem in detail and include a daytime phone number. It isn’t always possible to send a per-
Monday, June 20, 2011 / Page 11
OnTheMOve / Tallahassee Democrat
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