Taste. Blas magazine issue 8: Autumn 2021 by taste.blas_magazine

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Autumn 2021

AND WYE NOT? Foodie treasures in border country

ALL OF A PICKLE The best Welsh preserves RUM TALES Is rum the new gin?

SAVE THE PLANET and eat well …

GREEN SHOOTS

Sustainable micro-producers

T H E W O R L D ’S YOUR OYSTER

Multi-cultural dining in Wales

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

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Publisher’s Letter

Legacy

So, what will ours be? We’re on the edge of a precipice. Without rapid change, our generation, and those immediately before us, will have left a parched planet, devoid of many species of plant and creature and unable to sustain meaningful life, and anything remotely resembling prosperity, for our children and grand-children, let alone their off-spring. Events over the last year, and particularly in the last few weeks, have demonstrated just how vulnerable we are – and how difficult even relatively minor setbacks can be. And make no mistake, our recent problems are minor compared to what will come if we don’t change. But we can change. And Wales, despite its size, is helping to lead the way. Wales was one of the first countries in the world to declare a climate emergency. And it’s now one of the first to place sustainability at the heart of many of its policies.

Food and drink, as a major contributor to climate change and environmental damage, will be core to this. Wales already has a head-start, with a pristine coastline, a moderate and rainy climate, a low-intensity farming culture, a supportive government and great producers but so much more is needed. In this issue, working with Food and Drink Wales, we will outline what is already being done and what we, as producers and consumers, can do in the future to make our small, beautiful country a byword for a sustainable approach to living. If we succeed, we will not only reduce our own impact on the planet but be a beacon to other countries as they look to follow in our footsteps. That can be our legacy.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contents Features Conservative Party Lovely Welsh pickles and preserves

Travel the World Without leaving Wales’s shores

Rum Runners 5 of the best Welsh rums

Saving the Planet The Welsh food and drink community goes sustainable

Wye Don’t You… take a trip to border country?

Green Shoots Small producers with sustainability at heart

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Regulars Plumming the depths Jon Gower enjoys a Denbighshire treat

Chef Profile Noorie from Indiana Cuisine talks family, love and food

Producer Profile The legendary Daphne Tilley on the joys of Welsh lamb

Trail of the Month The Afan Valley, Port Talbot’s ‘little Switzerland’

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

They’re Back! We finally get to do some restaurant reviews

Recipes If you want to lose weight, look away now

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Cupboard Pleasures Myfanwy stocks up her latest purchase

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Place names and foodie connections I’d imagine even the most dedicated pub quiz goer might struggle to name a place in the world named after a brand of gin. Yet the Boothia Peninsula exists on the map of the Northern Canadian Arctic because Sir Felix Booth, from Booths’ gin, sponsored an expedition to try to locate the North-West Passage. It got me thinking about Welsh place names connected with food or drink. Some celebrate the bounteous harvest of the sea, such as Oystermouth, Fishguard, from ‘fish yard’ or Dinbych y Pysgod, ‘little fort of the fish,’ being the Welsh name for Tenby. There are two place names in north Wales – Cerrig Delsyg and Porth Delsyg – which refer to edible seaweed, Fucus palmatus, the basic component of the most delicious green sludge known to man, a.k.a laverbread. Herring, ysgaden, was the mainstay of our fishing industry for many years so this silver currency of the Irish Sea is present in the name Porth Ysgaden near Tudweiliog. But some names are more obscure. One of these is the Welsh name for Fairwater in Cardiff. Tyllgoed might well derive from the words for an oak tree which is ‘holed, or perforated.’ At one time trees were pierced in order to attract honey bees, a practice common throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. It added value, too: early Welsh law suggested that if a tree was ‘bored through three score pence are to be paid for that.’ There are, of course lots of other place names associated with food. The Dyfed-Powys police headquarters are at Nantycaws, ‘the river of the cheese’ which alludes to rich pasture-lands capable of supporting dairy cattle, a quality present in other places such as Nant Llefrith, llefrith being milk and Afon Llaethnant, llaeth being a variant name for milk or cream. A modern development has seen place names associated with very specific foods, such as our only native cheese, the iconic Caerphilly, being given European Protected Geographical Indication, joining the likes of Champagne and Parma Ham on the list of foods safeguarded in this way. One of the most recent

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to be added to the list was the Vale of Clwyd Denbigh Plum, which was added at the end of 2020. One of the great things about place names, or of food names which are also places is that there are often stories connected with them. So here’s a story to go with the latest food to be added to the roster of 15 Welsh food and drinks which includes Welsh Lamb, Cambrian Mountains Lamb and its lowland cousin, Gower Salt Marsh Lamb, Anglesey Sea Salt, West Wales coracle-caught Sewin, Carmarthen Ham and Pembrokeshire early potatoes. We planted a Vale of Clwyd Denbigh Plum tree in our garden to commemorate the fact that my wife Sarah and I met at the National Eisteddfod in Denbigh in 2001 and have been very happily married ever since, to the point that we have never argued about anything. Believe me if I was married to me I’d be arguing all the time, so let’s put some of it down to her boundless patience. You may have already done the maths but this year marks the 20th anniversary of our first meeting and curiously this was the year our small tree finally produced fruit. Sadly the incessant rain, inclement weather and marauding gangs of greedy garden thrushes took their toll so we failed to make so much as a single pie or plum crumble from our purple harvest. But a couple of weeks ago we tried some of the dessicated specimens still stuck to the branches and they were sublime. Think Cardiff ’s answer to the Californian prune, and in this instance being tasted by an actual Californian, as my wife comes from Oakland. We have now dubbed this part of the garden Denbigh Plum Corner. Which got me thinking: wouldn’t it be a thing if someone planted enough of these native fruit types to not only produce soft fruit but also convert the surplus into dried fruit? A unique food, grown in Wales, carrying the sweet taste of summer over into autumn and winter. Anyone with an orchard suitable for such an experiment do please get in touch.

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales. This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do, in a beautiful place. Real food, real drink, real Wales.

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

FoodDrinkWales

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Food_Drink_Wales

Chef Profile

Noorie at Indiana Cuisine, in Fairbourne By Debbie Ashton Noori, where were you born and brought up? What was your childhood like? I was born in Punjab in Northern India. I grew up in a very traditional way, learning my cooking skills from my mother, which was the cultural norm for a young girl. My parents enabled me to try some jobs before I was to marry. I taught in a local school as well as working as a beauty therapist! Were you destined to be a chef from an early age? Cooking is a must in every Punjabi or Sikh house. We as children grow up on the smell of a variety of dishes. My mother often cooked, and my father was a chef and ran his own establishment in Germany, so cooking was in my blood. In our culture it is vital for a girl to be a good cook in order to find a good groom as the question is always asked by the groom’s side at the time of first meeting ‘Can she cook’? How did you meet Raj? Raj’s mother Sneh knew that her son would want a life partner without any complication. He’s a simple man at heart who wanted a wife to form a partnership with, not to rule. At that time, he was a successful Bollywood actor, living in London. We met once for a couple of hours in Delhi and it was love at first sight. I felt so comfortable with Raj, and we both agreed to the marriage. We met twice more, once for the engagement and once for the marriage! We had fallen for each other at our first meeting, so I was certainly excited about joining him in his life in London. You are well-known name as an acclaimed Chef. Who do you give the credit? My mother in-law encouraged me to turn my passion for cooking into a profession. She has always been supportive, and whilst we were working to bring our dream and vision to fruition, she helped take care of our two children who were then extremely young. This has enabled us to show our children a good work ethic, so that we may inspire them also to work hard in their lives, at whatever they opt to do. Tell us about your partnership with Raj? Raj has enabled me to have a platform, to have a business, from which I can shine. He has always seen me as an individual with my own skills and potential, recognising from day one that I am a good cook. We work together and are totally supportive of each other’s vision. Raj’s experience and his very calm and composed approach to any difficult situation has been

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extremely helpful in creating a synergy that allows us both to still smile and laugh together. There are times when it is stressful, but he is my rock, and I am his. How did you end up in Wales? We wanted to live in a completely different environment to the busy streets of London, we wanted a little more space and fresh air, and Wales seemed perfect. Rod James, the landlord of the property (which houses Indiana), has been an amazing support! We could not be more grateful to him and his mother. We initially met him on a recce and he remembered we were aiming to open a food business in the area and let us know when a premises became available after our initial contact with him. The rest is history! What made you both want to open a restaurant? We had a joint vision of the business, and while at first we had considered a Tiffin business, we always knew that we wanted to open a restaurant. We intended to take it in stages and build up to the restaurant, however it had become very clear to us that we would be able to open this restaurant much sooner than anticipated due to the premises Rod James had available. What sets us apart would be the authentic, non-westernised taste and flavours (cooked fresh with love, care and passion), as well as the dining environment we had created. What inspires you in the kitchen? Empty plates coming back to the kitchen! Knowing that people have enjoyed their dining experience with us continues to inspire and encourage me to keep innovating. Another thing that inspires me is the number of people who ask to meet me during the evening’s service. It’s gratifying when they tell me how much they have enjoyed their meal. It’s great to hear this directly from diners! What are your future ambitions? We plan to try a few different things in the future. We have an outside area which is to be known as Indiana Village, where we will have an outside bar, tandoor, and will serve authentic street food. Something Amusing? Despite my formal posts, it’s amusing to let everyone know that I am actually a vegetarian! This is surprising to many as I prepare all the meals, regardless of the presence of meat, but I am still able to cook it with special care for tenderness, flavours, etc.

Collier’s long, deep and powerful taste releases slowly in the mouth and lingers, for you to experience this unique taste to the full. These are the factors that set Collier’s Powerful Extra Mature Cheddar apart.

THE GREAT TASTE OF WALES collierscheese

Fayrefield Foods

Farming that doesn’t cost the earth For centuries, beef and lamb has been produced in Wales on low-intensity family farms, using resources that are available in abundance: grass and rain. Welsh farmers are aiming to lead the world in sustainable production: • Producing high quality meat from land that’s unsuitable for other food production, overwhelmingly using grass rather than imported feeds • Contributing to mitigating climate change by storing carbon in soils and hedgerows • Seeking to improve and cut emissions still further Find out more at www.meatpromotion.wales/environment

Hybu Cig Cymru Meat Promotion Wales

Pickle & preserve perfection Searching for inspiration for something to pep up your after dinner cheese and crackers, spice up a dull lunchtime sandwich, slather over a warm crumpet or add to your favourite curry? Look no further as Isabelle Wells takes us on a romp through some of the finest Welshproduced pickles and preserves..

Pleasantly Pickled

Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm

Based in the historic town of Pembroke, Pleasantly Pickled started out by making gifts for friends and family. They then moved on to making a whole range of pickles and preserves which leads us to our pick of pickles, the Piccalilli (now that’s a mouthful!). Known as mustard pickle, piccalilli is a British interpretation of South Asian pickles. The Piccalilli can accompany many things such as toast, sausage, bacon, eggs or even a ploughman’s lunch. They pride themselves on using high quality ingredients and bringing that homemade feel to the table.

A premium chilli farm based in the Pembroke countryside, Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm knows how to pack the perfect kick into their chillies. With a range of different heats and colours you can find the perfect temperature that suits your needs. A highlight of their preserves is the Aji Lemon Jam which has a burst of citrusy goodness; the sour lemon combines with the subtle chilli heat to give that beautiful combination of flavours. You can use this jam with seafood and serves especially well with cod or scampi. Perfect for if you want to put a spin on traditional Fish & Chips.

Piccalilli £4.00 (375g) pleasantlypickled.co.uk

Aji Lemon Jam, £4.00 pembrokeshirechillifarm.com

Piccalilli

Aji Lemon Jam

Samosa Co

Spicy Keralan Aubergine Pickle Samosa Co started out on the other side of the pond in Canada. They started dishing out samosas to the city of Toronto. After coming back to the UK in the 80s they’ve gone from making samosas for friends to having their own factory. They pride their products on being 100% natural and use a ‘no added anything’ philosophy. Our favourite preserve is their Spicy Keralan Aubergine Pickle. It happens to have won a Great Taste Award and is perfect to accompany curries, naans & popadoms. You can even pop it on a bit of cheese and toast to make your breakfast snack special. Spicy Keralan Aubergine Pickle £3.50 samosaco.co.uk

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Little Grandma’s Kitchen

A Bit Of A Pickle

Known as a one-stop-shop for Welsh preserves, Little Grandma’s Kitchen is a 5 star rated company in St Clears who produce artisan goods. Born out of the love of preserving it all started when making their daughter Claire’s wedding hamper, people kept asking where they had bought the items from! The recipes have been passed down from generation to generation within the family whilst adapting flavours to cater to the modern palate. They are continually adding new varieties and flavours to deliver your perfect pairing. Paired with a splendidly toasted hot cross bun their Cherry Bakewell preserve melts magically into the dough. Made with 50% cherries you can guarantee to taste the sweetness!

After four years in the making... the greatly anticipated Garlic Pickles (Lahsun Ka Achaar) is finally available to pop in the pantry! A Bit Of A Pickle is a small family run business which started in 2013 after Christmas gifts were exchanged amongst family. The preserves were loved so dearly they decided to jar their produce and sell it. They use the freshest ingredients and the recipe is mostly made up of produce from within a mile of the kitchen. Some being as close as the back garden! Their Garlic Pickles are classed as a mild to medium heat with homemade Kashmiri chillies. They are perfect for adding into curries or to spruce up your lunchtime sandwich.

£4.00 for 300g littlegrandmaskitchen.co.uk

Garlic Pickles £3.50 www.abitofapickle.com/our-shop/garlicpickle

Cherry Bakewell Preserve

Garlic Pickles (Lahsun Ka Achaar)

Bim’s Kitchen

Goch & Co

African Baobab Chilli Jam

Sweet Pepper & Orange Chilli Chutney Goch & Co have been producing award winning chilli sauces since 2012 and have won a number of Great Taste Awards. A recipe between generations, this sauce has some serious heritage. Stan’s grandfather travelled from Portugal to Mozambique with his chilli sauce in the 1900’s and fell in love with a local girl. Passing the recipe on to his only son the chilli made its way to Zimbabwe, eventually Stan’s father passed on the recipe to him and he just so happened to be in the lovely land of North Wales. Stan and his wife Val knew the secret sauce needed to be shared with the world and that’s how Goch & Co was founded. We tried their Sweet Pepper & Orange Chilli Chutney and we can confirm that the proof is in the sauce. With a sweet starting citrus, it then leaves a pleasant tingly kick which develops the flavour even more! Serve with some local cheese and crackers to put the pep back in pepper!

Bim’s Kitchen fuses the perfect mix of African inspired food whilst being produced in South Wales. The exotic taste of their products is their signature. Bim’s African Baobab Chilli Jam is an excellent addition to a chilli or to brush over roasted pork to give it that extra kick. All of their products are Gluten Free, Vegetarian & Vegan. This versatility allows all your recipes to have that mouth-watering tasty heat whilst also being an easy to use pantry item. bimskitchen.co.uk/products

£3.74 for 130g www.gochandcompany.co

Preservation Society

Radnor Preserves

Lord Lambourne’s Scrumpy Butter with Calvados won a Great Taste Award so it’s no surprise this preserve is on our list! Picked from a family owned tree, the heritage swap cropped apples are then cooked in local Three Saints Cider Vinegar and cider until soft. With some added steps we are then introduced to the gorgeously curated Scrumpy Butter. The Preservation Society is known for producing award winning preserves all originating from the Wye Valley. The Scrumpy Butter is a perfect addition to roast potatoes, buttered crumpets and slow roast goose. A sumptuous slather on ice cream would not go amiss too!

The alchemists of preserves made our list with their delicious Welsh Cider & Leek Chutney that was first thought of during the Glanusk Horse Trials Fair in 2011. After having a stall in a food festival next to Hallet’s cider they considered using it in one of the chutneys in the future and when realising there were hardly any leek chutneys on the market it was the perfect combination of flavours. This patriotic chutney is the epitome of Wales and it mixes tradition with new ideas. Fabulous to serve with Welsh Rarebit or a pork pie this chutney has a hidden fire of chillies and mustard to ignite your taste buds.

£3.95 per jar www.thepreservationsociety.co.uk

£5.79 for 222g www.radnorpreserves.com

Scrumpy Butter with Calvados

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Welsh Cider & Leek Chutney

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales. This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do, in a beautiful place. Real food, real drink, real Wales.

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FoodDrinkWales

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Food_Drink_Wales

Tasting the world in Wales

Although Welsh culture is proud and deeply ingrained within everyday life in Wales, there are a lot of international communities that have set up home across the country and brought exciting new businesses and food with them. Wales is lucky enough to be able to celebrate influences from all over the world in its restaurants. Take the Italian cafes you’ll find in every South Wales town – many of them date back to the early 19th Century when families moved over from Italy in the hopes of finding more work and better living conditions. Some of the best Mediterranean food to this day comes from those cafes and small restaurants. More recently, immigration has seen a boost through international students arriving to study all across Wales and bring parts of their culture to us. These are some of the most unmissable world foods from all across Wales.

South Wales Cardiff

Bread & Salt

Cardiff is undoubtedly the multicultural hub of Wales. It’s got the highest non-white population of the whole country and offers the most restaurants, so naturally there’s a lot to find in the city. A walk down the central City Road is enough to see the influences from across the world. From Japanese sushi to Middle Eastern shawarma and Bangladeshi grocery shops, there’s a wealth of global food to try.

Le Mandela Hailed as delivering the comfort of home-cooked meals in a vibrant atmosphere, Le Mandela in Grangetown is the place to go for West and Southern African cuisine. They cover a broad range of traditional dishes including favourites jollof rice, ogbono soup and ayamase or ‘designer stew’, but the standout dish is the grilled croaker fish. 156 Penarth Road, Cardiff, CF11 6NJ. www.lemandela.co.uk

Nata & Co

If you’ve had a wander around central Cardiff recently, you’ve probably walked by a Nata & Co. bakery. The authentic Portuguese company has been rapidly growing over the past few years and has even expanded out to Bath. Their hero products are definitely the pastel de nata, or egg custard tarts, which are made on-site each day. If you can catch them just after being

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baked, a warm one is an extra special treat. The cafés also serve a range of pastries and cakes as well as lovely Portuguese coffee. 3 Castle Street, Cardiff, CF10 1BS www.nataco.uk

Wally’s Deli – Viennese Kaffeehaus Take a trip to Vienna with Wally’s Deli. Downstairs, the shop is filled with deli foods from lots of different countries, but head upstairs and you’ll find a quaint little Viennese Kaffeehaus! Wally’s brings the Viennese coffee house culture to Cardiff with a selection of continental breakfasts, open sandwiches, and gorgeous cakes and patisseries. Wally’s Delicatessen, 38-46 Royal Arcade Cardiff, CF10 1AE www.wallysdeli.co.uk

Brød A little taste of Denmark in the heart of Cardiff, Brød is a cosy coffee shop and bakery serving up freshly baked Danish goods. Proud winners of the Cardiff Life awards in 2016 and 2017, and a Britain’s Best Loaf winner in 2019, you are bound to find the perfect baked good to give you the perfect sense of hygge. 126 Wyndham Crescent, Cardiff/Caerdydd, CF11 9EG www.thedanishbakery.co.uk

Bread & Salt Explore the extraordinary menu of Polish delicacies at Bread & Salt – branch out and try some things you’ve never heard of like their Gulasz (a spiced beef and chicken stew), Devolay (breaded chicken roulade stuffed with cheese), or Leczo (vegetable stew), but if you’re not feeling like branching out, stick to a classic like their potato pancakes! 155 Cowbridge Rd East, Cardiff, CF11 9AH www.breadandsaltcardiff.uk

Yakiniku Yakiniku specialises in authentic Japanese and Korean cuisine. At their restaurant, each table is set up with a cooking station right in the middle for you to cook your own food just to your liking! Customers can chose from cuts of meat such as beef, pork, or ox to

cook on the grill. If that’s not your thing, there’s still a range of other options to choose from such as noodle and rice dishes that will be cooked for you. Cae Graw, Newport Road,St. Mellons, Cardiff, CF3 2WH www.seoulhaus.com/restaurant

Swansea Neath, Port Talbot and Swansea are all home to a thriving Caribbean community, although Swansea can boast some of the most loved restaurants. It dates back to the Windrush generation, when Jamaican people came over after the war. Port Talbot offered jobs in the steelworks and Swansea had space for healthcare workers. Since then, the Jamaican people have become a strong part of the community.

Jamaican Jill’s Bernie Davies is a bit of an exception. A former lawyer in Jamaica, she initially moved to North England, but completely fell for Wales after visiting. She took the plunge and moved to Cardiff, and then over to Neath after buying a restaurant there. Jamaican Jill’s serves traditional Caribbean food using Welsh ingredients. It’s loved by the community and has opened up another restaurant in Swansea. Try the signature goat curry for an authentic flavour. 55 Walter Road, Swansea, SA1 5PY. Call 01792 517762 to enquire

Monmouth The Whole Earth Thai Bistro Just off the main high street in Monmouth is a little taste of Thailand. Owner Prae Hamilton moved to the UK in 1996 and brought the cooking of her home country to life in The Whole Earth Thai Bistro. Hailed as having some of the friendliest service in the area, the bistro has expanded its menu to include a few British favourites as well, although the signature is the chicken Penang curry – try it with jasmine rice. 10 White Swan Court, Monmouth, NP25 3NY. Call 01600 715555 to book

Abergavenny Gurkha Corners Don’t want to stray your taste buds too far from your usual Indian takeaway? Why not head next door to Nepal and try the Nepalese food at Gurkha Corner for similar food with a twist. 10 Nevill St, Abergavenny, NP7 5AD gurkhacorners.com

West Wales Latinos Restaurant Latinos is a family run business based in Aberystwyth, offering alternative flavours to the people of West Wales. The food has Latin American and Spanish

influences, and meat and vegetables are prepared on the grill. Latinos are currently renewing their menu, adding new dishes and sides, so head over soon to check them out! 19 Portland Road, Aberystwyth, SY23 2NL www.latinosaberystwyth.com

Mama Fay’s A taste of the Caribbean in Aberystwyth! With over 15 years of experience, Mama Fay’s is the place to go for authentic Caribbean food. Named after their chef ’s mother, Mama Fay, the popular restaurant is inspired by her culinary adventures. Try classic Jamaican dishes here such as Curried Goat, Jerk Chicken or Ital Stew. Combining hand-picked ingredients with a unique blend of spices, the experience is topped off with regular reggae nights to properly transport you to the islands of the Caribbean. 2a Portland Rd, Aberystwyth, SY23 2NL www.mamafays.com

Foodbox-Paprika Traditional Hungarian food is served up at FoodboxPaprika. Serving up favourites like Lángos, a deep fried flatbread top with cheese, Goulash soup and Hortobagy filled pancakes, the menu changes weekly so keep an eye out for anything you want to try. 9 Terrace Road, Aberystwyth SY23 1NY www.facebook.com/foodbox.aber

North Wales Anglesey Freckled Angel Freckled Angel in Menai Bridge is a champion of bringing other cultural influences into traditional Welsh food. Bangor-born chef and owner Mike Jones named his restaurant in honour of a friend who passed away, inspiring him to follow his own dream of cooking for a living. He now dedicates himself to creating a personal, warm experience for diners, citing his food as being European. The concept is small plates taking a tapas-style approach, and the influences are clear across the menu. The dishes are made using local ingredients, but with a twist. The heroes of the menu include Korean BBQ pork belly, grilled langoustines and twice-baked Perl Las soufflé. 49 High Street, Menai Bridge, LL59 5EF. Call 01248 209952 to book

Brød - the danish bakery

Wally’s Deli

Up A Yard Jamaican Cuisine If you can’t head to Aberystwyth to enjoy the tastes of the Caribbean, try this one in Holywell! Starting only in 2020 Up A Yard brings island vibes to North Wales. The restaurant aims to provide ‘dishes that are fresh, hearty and simply unforgettable’. The menus are all prepared fresh from Jamaican and traditional cuisine – their King Prawn Curry is absolutely fantastic! The Art and Craft Mill, Holywell CH8 7PN upayarduk.wixsite.com/upayard

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Up A Yard Jamaican Cuisine

Producer Profile

Welsh Lamb, Magic Words to Consumer and Producer Interviewed by Isabelle Wells

Daphne Tilley is a name known well amongst the restaurant world and synonymous with quality produce carefully selected to ensure your taste buds are truly experiencing the magic of proper PGI Welsh lamb. Her environmentally friendly premium lamb is reared with care and, indeed love, to go straight from the farm to your fork. With loyal London clientele, it’s clear there is something fantastic about Daphne’s, whether it’s the Snowdonia mountain range air, their refined diet or the care, we talk to lamb legend Daphne to ask those all so important questions about what makes Welsh lamb so tasty. TB: “Shall we start at the beginning? How did the journey start to supply London’s top restaurants with Daphne’s Lamb?” “Well, it started because lamb prices became very poor for farmers. Lambs were around £30 to sell when they were costing £40 to produce. We were supermarket suppliers at the time, but we didn’t end up actually making any money. So, I took some lambs to London… somebody bet me that I wouldn’t do it, so I thought right, I've never been to London before, but I’ll give it a go. We scrubbed up our Land Rover, put some half lambs in poly boxes and visited around 10 restaurants. I looked up which ones were more upper end and set off for London on my own. Of the 10 restaurants back in 2002 I still have half of them now.” TB: “Why would you say Welsh lamb is better than a lot of the lamb out there today.” “I suspect it’s the bloodline and breeding over the years. It’s in lots of things…also the weather we have up here with the rain means the mountains are grassier and it’s not such a harsh climate. It’s also very dependent on what they eat, sweet grass and more herbs means there’s more variety for them to graze on. TB: “How has the industry changed over the years?” “The restaurants we deal with love lamb and are making it less seasonal. Also, the breeding of the sheep has changed over the years in that farmers have improved their stock by buying upmarket good confirmation meatier rams. Gradually they have improved the quality so there’s much more meat to bone ratio.” TB: “Just for fun, is there anyone you know of interest who has tried Daphne’s Lamb?” “Oh, well our lamb was provided in one of the G20 meetings when all the presidents came to 10 Downing

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Street. Jamie Oliver cooked for them. We weren’t allowed to say where the meat was going as it was very hush hush. So, I drove it up myself as none of my staff knew who it was for. When I got there, there were two chaps with machine guns on either side and I go ``my gosh what are you doing here” and they said, “to look after you ma’am” as it was such a protected meeting.” TB: “Wow that’s impressive, with all that pressure would you say there have been some funny mishaps in your career?” “Not so much a mishap but definitely a funny story. I got a call from the Ritz one day asking for mutton for the day after tomorrow. I thought it was a weird request as it usually has to hang for at least two weeks. Nevertheless, I tried anyway as I had a feeling I knew who it was for. I rang up one of our farmers who had a few but they were going to be cut up for his own freezer. I told him that we needed his mutton for a special someone’s birthday and luckily, he agreed, and we managed to get it to the table in time. The chef told Prince Charles he was eating another farmer's mutton when it was delivered to the table! When the farmer was asked if he wanted another one back, he replied to me “no, as long as you pay me for that one.” TB: “What do you think the future of farming is going to look like?” “I have no idea! This is all a guessing game. They are trying to change the consumption of meat, but I think a certain amount of meat in one's diet is good for one. One doesn’t have to have meat every meal, it’s all a balance. Previously people couldn’t afford meat and I hope it doesn’t go beyond the pockets of people because it’s important. It’s just hard to say what can happen beyond now. At the moment it’s looking quite busy and buoyant. We are going to have to work together with environmental agencies I think.”

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Rum

Our Five Hidden Did you know that in Wales there is an ever growing rum scene? You may know the Welsh whiskeys, you may know the Welsh gins but have you heard about Welsh rum? Isabelle Wells reveals our five favourite rums for you to get your hands on this winter. Over the past decade we have seen gin resurface with a huge rise in the number of independent producers as demand has grown. We can see rum following the same path as gin in the coming years and it has already begun here in Wales. The following are our standout Welsh rum offerings:

Barti Spiced Barti’s is a fixture in the Welsh rum scene. Rooted in Welsh heritage of a famous pirate named John Roberts (also known as Barti Ddu) you can guarantee this rum recipe has its seaside twist. Founded in Pembrokeshire, West Wales Barti’s spiced is infused with local seaweed. It took them a year to perfect the balance between the vanilla, clove, cinnamon and sweet citrus and then they had to move onto adding the umami taste of seaweed to enhance the flavour. This rum really brings the identity of the Pembrokeshire coast to life. Suitable for both sipping and mixing, you can have Barti’s spiced the way you like it. Price: £29.95 for 70cl www.bartirum.wales/product/barti-spiced-70cl

Welsh Witch Rum From North Wales and brewed by Welsh Witch the rum is sourced and crafted locally. A magical brew which puts a spell on your taste buds with its premium flavour and measures around 40%. Taking influence from the traditional bara brith the sweet and spicy tones ignite a fire on your tongue. The tale of the welsh witch is strong in this potion and has been brewed by the enchantress herself. The dried fruits and spices in this rum create an intense burst of spice and we think the secret is their added whisper of whisky. Price: £36 for 50cl www.wild-moon.co.uk/shop/welsh-witch-spicedrum-50cl

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Galore!

Welsh Rums Cole’s Dark Rum Handcrafted in Carmarthen, this family made rum starts off its journey as a clear spirit before being aged in ex-oak bourbon barrels to develop the darker colour and full bodied flavour. Beginning in 1994 Cole’s are experts in distilling, Cain and Marcus are the head distillers then there’s a family effort to bottle and taste test all their products. Cole’s Dark Rum has rich woody flavours with hints of raisins, vanilla and pepper then you are left with the aroma and sweetness of the molasses coming through. A dark and complex taste to leave a sweet memory in your mouth. Price: £30 for 700ml www.coles.wales/shop

Dragon’s Breath Spiced Rum Spirit of Wales Distillery brings our next addition, the award-winning Dragon’s Breath Spiced Rum. Made in Newport, South Wales and inspired by Celtic heritage and full of Welsh passion, you’ll get plenty of warmth from these flavours. The vanilla and cinnamon sit on the backdrop of caramel and cloves then a light and fruity start followed by a warming dragon’s breath of clove spice and woody cinnamon. A light and spicy sip which can be served on its own or in a cocktail. Price: £32 for 50cl www.spiritofwales.com/product/dragons-breathspiced-rum

Penmon White Rum After being part of a successful jointly run craft distillery set up to create small batch spirits using influences based on the Isle of Anglesey, Rob and Maria decided to make their very own rum, setting up Anglesey Rum Co. Their signature Penmon White Rum was found through a craft process and made with triple distilled pure cane molasses. It’s then blended with pure Welsh water. Known as the silver or light rum the flavour is highlighted in the sweetness perfect for making your favourite cocktails at home like a pina colada or daiquiri. Price: £38 for 70cl www.angleseyrum.co.uk/collections/all

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Great Gifts – Plant-Based Recipe Books

Happy Beans and Funny Food, £9.99 Fabulous plant-based recipe books by Pembrokeshire farmer Jayne Reynolds. Order online wwwgraffeg.com or phone 01554 824000

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A Sustainable Future

Wales is leading the way with landmark policies, but we all need to do more to make our food and drink sustainable. Sasha Smith reports www.taste-blas.co.uk

It is hard to ignore the irreversible damage we are doing to the world around us. Wildfires, floods, hurricanes - it is no coincidence that the number of natural disasters is on the increase because of a not so natural cause - us. We’re the first generation to know we’re destroying the world, but we could be the last that can do anything about it.

Why we need to act To avoid catastrophic climate change the 2016 Paris Agreement aims to reduce damaging greenhouse gas emissions like carbon dioxide, and limit global warming to well below 2, preferably 1.5 degrees Celsius, compared to pre-industrial levels. However, few countries are on track to meet this target. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) says a 1.5°C average rise may put 20-30% of species at risk of extinction. If the planet warms by more than 2°C, most ecosystems will struggle, ice caps will melt, sea levels rise, and the rising temperature of the air and water will cause extensive droughts, wildfires and flooding with mass extinctions to follow. We are polluting water in rivers and lakes faster than nature can recycle and purify it. Our seas are full of microscopic plastic and becoming more acidic with nearly a third of carbon dioxide emissions ending up in the oceans, triggering a chemical change that threatens the micro-organisms on which marine life depends. Worldwide, farmers are struggling to keep up with shifting weather patterns and increasingly unpredictable water supplies. Combined with land degradation, declining soil fertility, unsustainable water use, loss of habitat, overfishing and marine environment degradation the ability of the natural resource base to supply food is reduced. This leads to an increased use of fertiliser and pesticides to help crops grow but can be deadly to the bees we so vitally need to pollinate our plants. The food industry, from growth to transportation to packaging, is intrinsically linked to climate change and environmental damage with recent research indicating one third of human-caused emissions are due to our “food systems”. In the UK we have often lengthy and increasingly vulnerable supply chains. Food from abroad is insecure, comes with high food miles and emissions and may also come from countries who disregard animal welfare and human rights or take little care of their environment, which invariably also

has an impact on the quality of the food we are eating. This is not sustainable. The decisions we make – from the individual consumer in the supermarket through to governments at international conferences – risk further exacerbating the crisis. Or they could help. The Welsh parliament was one of the first in the world to declare a climate emergency and embed sustainability in its law-making back in 2015. Sustainability is now at the heart of Food and Drink Wales’s strategy and Welsh producers are increasingly at the forefront of change. However, real, sustainable change will be a community effort, requiring all of us to look fundamentally at how we produce our food, where it originates and what we should buy. Making the right choices presents an amazing opportunity for our food and drink community – and will help save our planet.

An easy choice for Wales Wales is well placed to spearhead a sustainable food revolution. A widely held association of our beautiful landscapes, clear seas and verdant fields with a way of life that’s more in tune with nature gives us a headstart. But it’s much more than that. Thanks to the warm and nutrient rich currents of the Gulf Stream the Welsh climate is moderate with few extremes and plenty of rain – perfect for the cultivation of crops and livestock. Our coast teems with life whilst our land is mineral rich and varied, consisting of lowland and uplands that can be used for multiple purposes and areas with unique micro-climates and unspoilt habitats where nature can thrive. Wales’s food culture and history is one of low intensity and smaller scale with high levels of animal welfare. We prefer to let nature take the lead keeping our interventions to a minimum and adopting a more traditional approach which is minimally invasive to, and often protects, the environment. Wales’s geography means our farms are smaller and many have been in the same family for generations with high levels of animal husbandry and fine quality produce. This combination of natural beauty and bounty with a traditional, environmentally conscious approach has always attracted the most passionate and talented artisans who want to produce the best, healthiest and tastiest food and drink – from Rachel’s Organic Dairy back in the 70s through to present day heroes. And from farm to fork our producers are supported and encouraged by a proactive government that recognises the challenge and opportunity and has introduced policies and measures that will enable rapid change.

What can be done? A rapid switch away from the burning of fossil fuels in our power stations, buildings, factories and vehicles is required now to reduce damaging greenhouse gas emissions causing climate change. Reducing our power and heating demand in buildings through energy efficiency improvements, improving insulation levels,

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air tightness and smarter use of energy are some of the first things to address. Use of renewable sources of electricity, heat and fuel are also needed – they are sustainable and don’t pollute the planet or contribute to climate change. Finding a cleaner way to fuel transport is imperative to our future, but reducing our food miles and shopping local is a direct action that we can all take now – fewer miles travelled reduces fossil fuels consumed, and tackles air and noise pollution at the same time. Carbon offsetting can also play a part as long as it effects real and permanent reductions in greenhouse gas emissions around the globe. High quality offsets such as the WWF Gold Standard offsets should be pursued but shouldn’t be used solely as a substitute for direct emissions reductions for example in buildings and supply chains. For farmers looking to take control of their carbon footprint, regenerative agriculture is something to look into. Regenerative agriculture practices seek to rehabilitate and enhance the entire ecosystem of the farm by improving soil and environmental health with attention also paid to water management, fertilizer use, and more. It also seeks to restore habitat and increase biodiversity. Farmers should reduce their use of chemicals and pesticides and find effective waste management methods that can be employed to reduce the pollution they create that causes adverse effects to the ecosystem in our rivers. Returning to a much more natural method of farming, as many farms in Wales already have, reduces the damage that is done to the ecosystem. Moving away from harmful intensive farming to more sustainable farming is better for biodiversity and the preservation of our environment helping to protect rare and endangered species. More generally, all our food and drink should be produced in a way that minimises waste, water use and the use of pollutants such as plastic. It should also be as additive free as possible for our health. Sustainability can further be improved by efforts not only to improve our environmental impact, but also by making our workplaces better by giving workers a proper living wage, and improving the conditions they work in, which can all lead to an improved product at the end of the line. This may seem ambitious, but it needs to happen. And the first steps are being taken.

Welsh government leads the way With consumers increasingly conscious about environmental issues, Wales is taking steps to achieve a global reputation for the excellence and sustainability of its food supply chain. Over the past few years, the Welsh Government has been ahead of the curve, being the first in the UK to bring in a charge on plastic bags, striving to promote the by now popular message of local provenance and sustainability. The Welsh government is supporting businesses to adopt sustainable practices through their Sustainability Cluster. Working hand in hand with government, industry and academia, the cluster is the central hub, providing intelligence to businesses, is the eyes

and ears of the industry and develops networks and industry expertise to help Wales become a world leader in sustainability. There are also several existing and new initiatives that the Welsh Government is supporting to promote sustainability in the food and drink industry. One such way that the Welsh government is supporting businesses is through funding. A major recent announcement is that the B Corp accreditation grant will reimburse up to 100% of fees for the first year. Certified B Corporations are businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose. The Decarbonisation & Covid Challenge Fund and the Backing Local Firms Fund aims to help local firms in the three foundational economy sectors of Food, Green Skills/Retrofit and Social Care overcome barriers they face when doing business with the public sector. Cywain, the organisation that supports the early development of new and existing micro businesses in the Welsh Food and Drink industry, works with hundreds of food and drink businesses in Wales, offering guidance and support on many issues, including advice from sustainability experts to help build sustainability credentials. Distance learning courses from Bioinnovation Wales help individuals and companies looking to become more sustainable and embrace circular economy thinking. They run a range of modules, with intakes three times per year, which build to form a postgraduate qualification and are currently being offered to those living or working in Wales for free. Food Skills Cymru offers support to businesses by training their employees. The project can support businesses with the cost of completing statutory, non-accredited and bespoke training courses in a wide range of subjects from business management, export, food safety, health, sustainability and safety to engineering and machinery related training. Project HELIX further supports Welsh food and drink companies to develop and reformulate innovative products from concept, design, development and manufacturing, through to the consumer’s shopping basket. Advanced Manufacturing Research Centre of Wales (AMRC) also similarly supports businesses to improve their performance by transforming the products they sell, the way they make them, and the skills of their workforce. At the heart of this business transformation will be embracing the potential of the technology of today and working in partnership to tackle the challenges of tomorrow through business resilience and manufacturing sustainability. The message is the infrastructure and support framework are in place. Wales is ready. And the transition is well underway with many businesses determined to do their bit to save our planet, look after their people and environment and make the most of the opportunity to spearhead change. And our producers are pushing hard too…

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Sustainability Case Studies Llanllyr Source

Puffin Potatoes

A shining example of a company working towards their sustainability goals is Llanllyr Source. Llanllyr Source is a Welsh water company that decided last year to discontinue using PET bottles and move back into 100% recyclable cans, having tried once before way back in 2008 when they discovered the hard way that people weren’t ready for water in a can. Llanllyr are also reducing plastic in other areas within the company and are looking at ways to stop its use altogether, particularly with pallet wrapping. Llanllyr SOURCE has been a carbon neutral company since 2006, and they aim to become carbon negative by 2025. They use solar panels and are planning to switch to using entirely renewable energy.

Puffin Produce was started in the mid-70s by a group of growers getting together to jointly market their Pembrokeshire Early Potatoes. Puffin Potatoes has always had sustainability as a key element of their business, giving their farmers a fair deal, and always remaining true to their roots.

Llanllyr also work with charities like the Anthony Nolan Trust, ‘Just a Drop’ and other waste reducing charities focused on the environment and are proud to provide stable jobs for local people with a keen interest in helping future generations. It’s all part of their focus on their triple bottom line - profit, people and the planet. It ties in so well with the ‘brand’ of Wales as a country of great, sustainably produced food and drink and an environment so beautiful that we all have a responsibility to maintain and preserve for the benefit of everyone.

‘We've received a whole range of support from the Welsh Government over the last 10 to 12 years. We are also a member of the Sustainability Cluster group which has been excellent, and we’ve gained some great information from them. At the end of the day a farming business revolves around its soil.’

Atlantic Edge

Coaltown In the heart of the post-industrial community of Ammanford, lies Coaltown Coffee. As the presence of anthracite coal (black coal) dwindled, so did the local economy and the town’s purpose. Coaltown’s ambition was to bring a new industry to their home, a new Black Gold, a new purpose. In 2018 that was achieved, bringing above the real living wage jobs to the area. Scott from Coaltown has warmly praised the helping hand given by the Welsh Government. ‘Welsh Government’s Food and Drink Wales has been brilliant by inviting us along to various events. I met Selfridges at a Food and Drink Wales event and through that we picked up their business. We’ve also had some funding from the Welsh Government, which has helped us to buy equipment.’ Coaltown is also a Certified B Corporation (see above). ‘It resonated deeply with our own ambition as a business. It's been a great way of unifying our brand under a well-established doctrine. It certifies everything we already do as a business and gives our team a framework to work by. It kind of ties everything together really nicely. The accreditation is a long process, but you can use it as a way of restructuring your business and developing it for the better. It gives you the opportunity to rethink everything from the ground up. It's a way of developing your business to become part of a greater ecosystem of B-Corps around the world.’

Sustainability is a key pillar at Puffin. Puffin are working with 3Keel consultancy to improve their sustainability and they’re working to offset their carbon footprint with Climate Partners, even launching Root Zero, their planet friendly potatoes that are climate kind, plastic free and grown using sustainable farming practices to remove carbon dioxide, create healthy soil and increase local biodiversity. They’ve measured every contribution to the potatoes’ carbon footprint, from the power used on the farm to the transport to take them to the supermarket, even down to customers taking them home, and it will all be offset.

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Growing oysters relies on a pristine marine environment. Atlantic Edge put restorative aquaculture at the heart of everything they do. Rather than take from the sea, oyster farming can have a restorative effect on the surrounding waters by removing excess nutrients and provide habitat to create a healthier ecosystem for other marine life. ‘To run our farm within a Marine Protected Area we have to operate with the lightest of touch and have developed ways of growing oysters that leave the smallest of footprints. From our seed oyster supply throughout the whole production process to our packaging we strive to use the most sustainable approaches and are always looking for ways to improve them. The oysters grown at Atlantic Edge are so clean you can eat them straight off the beach. And we've got our part to play in maintaining that environment, so everything we do, we think about how we're operating, what we're doing, we try to adopt the best practice to make sure we're as sustainable as possible.’ ‘That goes from where we purchase our small seed oysters, how we grow them even to our packaging that we take to our chefs. Our customers are now really valuing local food, asking where their food comes from and how sustainable is, we've got a really good relationship with our chefs.’

Cosyn Cymru

Fferm Cilgwenyn Bee Farm

Carrie at Cosyn Cymru is passionate about cheese and local produce. Carrie contributes to the environment by making her yogurt in glass jars, so they can be returned and re-used, (getting over 60% returned back to her) and wrapping all her cheese in deli paper. ‘There is a bit of a cost to that because it means my shelf life isn't as long, but I would rather give up a little bit of shelf life in order to have cheese wrapped properly.’

Fferm Cilgwenyn produce five tonnes of awardwinning, raw Welsh carbon neutral honey per year from different parts of Wales on a disused coal mine in Llangennech. At the heart of their business are their ethical and sustainability values to combat climate change and to ensure there is enough social and economic resources available to everyone. They have implemented a number of initiatives to produce their carbon neutral honey by creating their own electricity through solar power and planting enough trees to offset 30 years of production of jars and lids.

Carrie uses milk from a series of small farms and transforms it into high quality products that puts money back into the local economy. Carrie is now working on a new dairy that will eventually have a cafe too. It is triple insulated all over, and they are putting in a heat recovery system so that all the energy expended in the refrigeration is recycled to heat the hot water. Carrie says this is all thanks to the help she’s received from the Food Business Investment Scheme Grant, and she wouldn’t have been able to do this without the help of the Food Technology Centre in Llangefni who supported her.

Their honey is sustainable and 100% carbon neutral. Their bees help to pollinate vast areas of the Welsh landscape, ensuring biodiversity continues with a variation of plants, helping the next generation to succeed and to alleviate climate change. Cilgwenyn Bee was recently announced as the winner of the Speciality & Fine Food Fair Rising Sustainability Star Award. The Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards were created to recognise and celebrate the individuals and businesses driving innovation and delighting their customers in the fine food and drink community. They also give back to their community by training veterans for free to help combat PTSD. ‘We help our own communities and teach ex-servicemen beekeeping as a means of coping with the mental scars of war.’

Castle Dairies Aber Falls Making a great example for others to follow is Aber Falls distillery. Aber Falls gives the waste product from the production of ale to local farms for use as fertiliser, while spent grain can be recycled as cattle feed. Aber Falls works with local farmers to grow the finest Welsh barley and strives to ensure their ingredients are authentic and of the highest quality, but also improve the economy of the area. Aber Falls also uses the natural resources around them, using the water from the Aber Falls river as a key ingredient in all their spirits. They further reduce electricity and water waste usage by recirculating the cooling water that is used in their cooling towers. Around the distillery, all vehicles are electric, and there are electric charging points available for staff and visitors to use, but Aber Falls are hoping to be even greener by switching to a low carbon heating system in the next few years to add to the solar power they are already using in their visitor centre. Further efforts are being made at the visitor centre as all food is locally sourced and all the packaging on their spirits are recyclable.

Castle Dairies is dedicated to improving the world around them through a focus on helping local communities and improving their sustainability. Since last year, Castle Dairies has switched to only using British rapeseed oil in their products, made using sustainable energy. With supplies from over 200 Welsh farmers, thus reducing food miles by 245,000 miles per year and supporting the local economy, all of Castle Dairies’ raw materials come from Red Tractor Assured Farms. This ensures that everything is responsibly sourced and traceable. They are committed to reducing overall plastic by 25% and that all packaging is recyclable and compostable. They have also developed an ambitious plan to be net zero carbon by 2025. To ensure the water they use is cleaned and recycled to help our environment, Castle Dairies have invested in a wastewater treatment system called DAF, a clarification process that removes residues in wastewater. These solids are then anaerobically digested. Additionally, a share of Castle Dairies’ profits is allocated to Community Foundation Wales and also goes towards creating university grants for students in disadvantaged local areas.

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Road miles

Bio-diversity

Green

Zero Carbon

Water

Wales

Pesticides Plastic

Pollution

Extinction

Health

Local

Climate Change But we all need to act

minimise their waste, limit their use of energy and other resources etc.

So, we’ve discussed what businesses can do to improve their sustainability - but what can individuals do? What can you do?

Ask about the conditions in which their product was made - is their meat organic and are their eggs free range? It’s not only better for the animal’s welfare, but it means that your food won’t contain questionable chemicals. If animal welfare is particularly important to you, you could consider devoting a day or so of your week to a vegetarian or vegan diet, as this diet requires less land and has a smaller carbon footprint. Minimise your food waste – shockingly about one third is wasted worldwide. Plan your meals and make a shopping list, so that you are not tempted by impulse buying, or consider joining the waste movement ‘too good to go’ which every day allows you to collect food from cafes, restaurants, hotels, shops and producers that has not sold in time.

Consumers can take control of their carbon footprint through the food products they choose to buy. Through buying local Welsh produce, consumers can ensure that not only will their products be of a high quality, supporting local businesses and the local economy, but food miles will also be reduced. Reducing food miles not only removes the need for planes to bring food from other countries (flying in food typically creates around 10 times more carbon emissions than road transport), if the producer is local, it reduces HGV emissions too. One easy trick that you can do is to eat food seasonally. If it’s not the summer in the UK, then forgo your fresh strawberries as they’ll be coming from the other side of the world! Instead, try some winter berries like blackberries that will have a significantly reduced number of food miles as they can grow in the UK. Refer to a seasonality chart to time food choices just right. To take your commitment to sustainability a step further, look for Welsh foods with PGI status. This indicates that the product you are buying is genuinely Welsh, and prevents consumers being misled (and stops other companies from claiming to be Welsh). You will see PGI status on beef and lamb, but more recently products like Traditional Welsh Caerphilly (PGI) and Pembrokeshire Early Potatoes (PGI) have been awarded the status. Do your research and check product labels - look for B Corp Certification which will ensure the product you are buying is of the highest sustainable standard. Check out the producer’s website or call them if the site says little about sustainability. Aim to find out whether they pay a living wage, use plastics extensively,

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Lastly, support retailers who stock sustainable produce and put pressure on those that don’t. Take your passion for sustainability to your local council, Member of the Senedd and your local MP! Get your voice heard and let them know the kind of Wales that you want to see.

A new dawn Wales’s food and drink community – government, producers and consumers – is clearly making great progress in the shift to sustainability. Whilst we should be under no illusion about the amount of hard work and number of years it will take, we shouldn’t be disheartened or fatalistic – we have the ingenuity, determination and resources to make our country a world leader in food sustainability and by doing so, we can save the planet and guarantee generations to come a future that is prosperous, healthy, pleasant and full of opportunity. And this is an amazing opportunity – to be in balance with nature, at last, and to have a successful, thriving foodie scene for many years to come. We need to seize it.

Seasonality Calendar Here’s your easy to use guide to find out what’s in season and when. Eating seasonally means you get produce at its peak, when it tastes best, at its best price, without costing the earth.

Apples, Bramley

Kale

Apples, Cox

Leeks

Asparagus

Lettuce, Cos

Bean, Runner

Lettuce, Curly

Beetroot

Marrow

Blackberries

Peas

Brussels Sprouts

Plums

Cabbage, Spring Green

Potatoes, Maincrop

Cabbage, White

Pumpkin

Cabbage, Savoy

Raspberries

Cabbage, Red

Rhubarb

Carrots

Spinach

Celeriac

Strawberries

Celery

Squash

Courgettes

Sweetcorn

Cucumber

Tomatoes

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December

November

October

September

August

June

May

April

March

February

MONTH PRODUCT

January

December

November

October

September

August

July

June

May

April

March

February

MONTH PRODUCT

January

Use the key to identify what’s in season and when.

July

KEY Winter Spring Summer Autumn

Know Your SOURCE. Love Nature.

Our cans are 100% recyclable. #KnowYourSOURCE #LoveNature

www.llanllyrsource.com

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Trail of the Month Afan Valley From the beginning, the makers of Get Jerky, found their love for jerky on hikes through the Yellowstone national park. Since then, Get Jerky has powered discovery, that’s why they want to share the love with you and power your next adventure! In this edition of taste.blas, the Get Jerky team takes us on another favourite trail of theirs. This time to the world renowned biking paths, stunning valleys and spectacular history of the Afan Valley! To some, the image of Port Talbot may be of billowing smoke, and the sci-fi like fire and lights of the steel works at night – or perhaps of theatrical talent such as Michael Sheen and Anthony Hopkins. But to those in the know, it has for many years been an adventurer’s dream – with world class biking paths, stunning riverside walks and historical architecture, there is so, so much to discover. There are lots of potential starting points for adventures in the Afan Valley. But for mountain biking, there’s one place you have to begin – that’s the Afan Forest park. With 7 separate trails that range from the 2.6km one for rookies to the huge 44km W2 for more experienced bikers, there is a great mix for all skills with all of them cutting through the valley’s stunning criss-crossing valleys. For the most beautiful loop, we love the Y Wal trail, which boasts grand panoramas and pacey descents along an exciting route that is mostly along a single track. One of the unique aspects of many of the trails is these single tracks – the real places to put your mountain bikes and skills to the test. Y Wal is a great blend of fast, wider trails, expert winding forest trails and spine-tingling steep, uncovered hills. It also meets with the disused railway line track, one which offers some historical titbits to fly by – and with relatively fair weather, the coastline in front of you will be visible at points. All in all, at 17km it is a challenging loop, with lots of inclines, but one that can be taken in over 90 minutes or a more leisurely 3 hours+. Amongst the other trails, are the gigantic combo path of W2, which racks up a monster 44km, the short but calf-pounding Penhydd or the gentler Blue Scar, named after the mining history of the valley. If you want to try your hand at single track biking but need the practise first, then the bike park is a perfect place to test your mettle. With 0.5km of track across 5 different grades of difficulty, it’s a great way to get used to the twisted turns and bumpy climes you may encounter on one of the longer routes! Mining history is scattered across this valley – and the Afan Forest visitors’ centre is again a great place to start or end if you want more of this, as it’s also home to the South Wales Miners’ Museum. As the furnace of the industrial revolution, this valley has a rich history

that not only transformed work and home, but also inspired architecture that’s stood the test of time both literally and aesthetically. The viaduct and aqueducts at Pontrhydfen are an amazing example of this, and a perfect focal point for walking in the valley. Start at the Forest Park and walk downwards to Pontrhydyfen, or, as we prefer, start at the lovely Brit Pub in Cwmavon and wander up the well maintained paths that intersect old railway lines – ones that would have carried copper, iron and tinplate upon the viaduct itself. From Cwmavon, there are walks from either sides of the valley, the river babbling below you from the right (going up the valley), or close beside on the other side, with points to stop and relax near the water and watch anglers.

TRAILS: AFAN VALLEY, CWMAVON TO PONTRHYDYFEN ACTIVITIES: MOUNTAIN BIKING, CYCLING, WALKING & HIKING, FISHING, CAMPING. PROTEIN POINTS: FIND GET JERKY IN KED’S GYM, PORT TALBOT. CATCH SOME LUNCH AT AFAN FOREST PARK VISITOR CENTRE. EAT & DRINK AT THE BRIT IN CWMAFAN.

From Cwmavon, it’s a pleasant but upward walk of 45 minutes – or, as we prefer, 1 hour and 30 with a pub lunch and craft ale awaiting in the Brit - perfect on a summer day with its beer garden that overlooks the river.

TRAILS: Y WAL – 17.4KM, 450M CLIMB

If fishing sounds like the perfect relaxing part of a trail, then there are several places to do so. Once, the river would stain rocks with flecks of copper orange but now thanks to years of work, the river is now far cleaner and hospitable to salmon, trout and seatrout. Contact Afan Valley Angling Club for permits. And of course don’t forget to get your Get Jerky for the trail at Ked’s Gym, Port Talbot to power your adventures along the trails.

CWMAVON TO PONTRHYDYFEN – AFAN FOREST PARK – 6.4KM, 103M CLIMB

www.trailheadfinefoods.co.uk

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W2 – 44KM, 975M CLIMB

AFAN BIKE PARK: 5 MINS – 1KM (MOUNTAIN BIKING PRACTISE – GRADES BLUE TO BLACK)

Destination Wye Valley

Why it deserves to be your next dining destination .. The Wye Valley is where the lengthy River Severn meets the salmon-rich River Wye, carving through Wales and England. Whilst this charming border area is known for its protected landscapes, ancient monuments, attractive market towns and outdoor pursuits, there’s also a thriving dining and foodie scene to be discovered. Portia Jones takes a closer look.. You can criss-cross seamlessly from Wales into England and explore the well-heeled Wye Valley area and its many restaurants, cafes and producers with ease. Take a gastro-journey through the valley and you’ll find locally reared lamb, smoked eel, craft ales and honey-infused mead. Begin your foodie outing in historic Monmouthshire, widely considered to be Wales’ gastronomic hub. This rural county is home to independent producers, vineyards, farm stays, dairies, brewers and impressive, Michelin star restaurants.

Saracens Head Inn

The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms With one Michelin star and four AA rosettes, dining at the Whitebrook is a must for serious foodies. Fresh, local ingredients and foraged findings from the valley and the Brecon Beacons are at the heart of the food at this highly acclaimed restaurant. Set in five acres of landscaped surroundings, chef Chris Harrod draws culinary inspiration from his surroundings. You can expect hand-foraged garlic, bittercress, wild onion, and hogweed from the valley, connecting diners to the immediate locale and enriching the menu. To get the full gastronomic experience at the Whitebrook, indulge in the £95 tasting menu, or pair with wine, including local wines and independent growers, for £170. The current tasting menu includes delectable plates with local flavours with dishes such as Wye Valley asparagus, Severn and Wye smoked eel and Ryeland Lamb.

The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms

The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms, Monmouth NP25 4TX Tel: 01600 860254

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Take a relaxed canoe trip down the meandering River Wye and discover a range of waterside pubs and cafes, where you can paddle up and have a pint and a pub lunch. It’s a long and accessible river that allows even beginner paddlers the unique opportunity to canoe or kayak their way to lunch.

Saracens Head Inn There are numerous pubs along the River Wye which are a welcome rest spot if you’re paddling up the river on an epic canoe or kayak trip. The Boat Inn and the Anchor Inn both offer local ales and river views. One of the best spots for a pint by the water though is the Saracens Head Inn. This historic, riverside inn has stood for centuries in its spectacular position on the east bank of the River Wye where the river flows into a steep wooded gorge. Here you’ll find rooms, awardwinning food and local ales. Their flagstone-floored bar and rustic pine tables provide a traditional pub feel as you sip on a pint of local real ale, watching the Inn’s ancient hand ferry carry passengers across the Wye. Order a pint of Butty Bach, a smooth, premium ale from the Wye valley brewery. This pale ale is carefully brewed with maris otter and crystal malts and locally grown fuggles, goldings and bramling cross hops. Saracens Head Inn, Symonds Yat East, Ross-on-Wye HR9 6JL Tel: 01600 890435 The Wye Valley is home to a range of drinks producers including microbreweries, mead makers and awardwinning gin distillers. Local breweries include small microbrewery Lydbrook Valley Brewing Company, producing a 4.2% IPA and the Wye Valley Brewery, producing a range of craft

Dining Wye Valley Meadery ales. The Wye Valley even has its own vineyard in the form of White Castle Vineyard, where visitors can buy Welsh wines and also tour the small vineyard. Pick up a bottle of their Siegerrebe 2019, a dry white that’s a perfect accompaniment with Fish.

Apple County Cider Co. Cider enthusiasts should head for Apple County Cider Co. in Monmouthshire to enjoy lightly sparkling ciders carefully crafted from fresh juice. These critically acclaimed ciders are locally produced by Apple County Cider Co., headed up by award winning cider producer Ben Culpin. Visitors can sample their premium ciders at their working farm shop, where bitter-sweet apples are harvested from their orchards, pressed on the farm and then sold to a thirsty public. Along with beers, wines and ciders, you’ll also find premium Welsh gin, craft distilled in Monmouthshire using local ingredients. Apple County Cider Co, Newcastle, Monmouth NP25 5NS Tel: 01600750835

Silver Circle Distillery The award-winning Silver Circle Distillery are the producers of Wye Valley Gin and a range of smallbatch craft spirits that can be found in pubs and retailers across the Wye Valley and beyond. Their signature gin is infused with locally sourced botanicals that grow wild in the Wye. Their tangy and crisp gin is infused with forest flavours including sweet woodruff, elderflower, blackberry leaf and scots pine. Gin enthusiasts can visit the distillery for a tour and learn more about the craft gin process, or book onto a unique gin-making experience. Create your very own bespoke gin recipe, using a plethora of wild botanicals and then bottle your creation to take home. Silver Circle Distillery, Pleasant View Barn, Catbrook NP16 6UL Tel: 01600 860702 Whilst the Wye Valley might be well known for craft gin and quality ales, small-batch producers are also reviving time-honoured, honey wine, better known as mead.

This family-run company specialises in creating session strength meads by applying modern brewing techniques to a historic beverage. Utilising their own bees, Wye Valley Meadery blends seasonal flavours with honey and brew at a lower temperature to create a delicate sparkle in their flavourful mead. Treat yourself to a bottle of their traditional, sweet and rich mead which is an impressive 50% honey by volume. Their range of meads, ales and honey products can be found across the Wye valley and you can also learn more about the mead making process at one of their engaging, mead making courses. Wye Valley Meadery, Severn Bridge Industrial Estate, Unit 5F, Castle Way, Caldicot NP26 5PR Tel: 07402 953998

Apple County Cider Co.

The Wye Valley has long been synonymous with salmon, thanks to the salmon-rich River Wye, a favourite with fishermen. Less is known about the migrating elvers (baby eels) that swim in the Severn after an arduous journey across the Atlantic.

The Barn at Severn and Wye On the western banks of the Severn, you’ll find fresh fish dishes, seafood and smoked eel at the contemporary Barn at Severn and Wye. This impressive venue is the ultimate foodie destination in the Wye and houses a restaurant, cafe, food hall, gift shop, smokery and arguably one of the country’s best fresh fish counters. Their smokery is famed for its traditionally smoked eel, with elvers netted in the Severn and matured on-site before being expertly smoked and sold in the restaurant and deli.

Silver Circle Distillery

Over in their modern restaurant diners can feast on the finest of coastal produce from the UK, mostly sourced from the Shetland Islands and the Brixham markets from day boats. Menu options include hot and cold sharing plates featuring Wye valley asparagus, smoked eel, Cornish turbot, mussels in Severn cider and occasionally, when the season allows, wild Severn salmon. The Barn at Severn and Wye, Chaxhill, Westbury-onSevern GL14 1QW Tel: 01452 760191

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Sustainability

Sustainable Start-ups It’s the age of change and now more than ever businesses are answering the calls of consumers to become more sustainable and climate friendly. Here’s some young businesses that have been promoting sustainability from the outset, paving the way to show how new businesses/producers can begin in a sustainable way and see great success. All businesses mentioned are being supported by Cywain’s ‘menter a busnes’ project where they give start-ups in the food and drink sector support to build from. Since 2016, Crwst Cymru is a business that has gone from strength to strength, and they’ve done so in an ethical way. From award-winning Pembrokeshire Sea Salted Caramel to Crunchy Granola wherever possible Crwst Cymru creates quality products with little damage. Currently using compostable and recyclable packaging, the business has impressed local consumers and also supports local producers and suppliers within 30 miles, reducing their carbon footprint! The team is dedicated to upholding its ethical stance with all new ventures and proves that you can have great success in such a short period, sustainably. crwst.cymru Coffi Ffa Da in Llandanwg only buy their green beans from suppliers who are committed to ensuring all workers enjoy safe treatment and comply with the modern slavery policy. Their choice of suppliers guarantees farmers a sustainable future. Working alongside ‘Surfers Against Sewage’ the reduction of single use plastics is a must in growing their business. The packaging for their specialty coffee retail bags are tested and certified as fully compostable. The pouch was created as an affordable yet high quality option that is eco-friendly, fully compostable and can degrade in just 10 weeks. The team takes great care in ensuring their artisan coffee is freshly roasted, kept fresh and is sustainable. ffada.co.uk/shop Welsh plant-based food producer Do Goodly Dips has secured its first national listing with a major retailer just a year after launch. The company is the result of a collaboration between friends Richard Abbey and Scott Davies and their Superstar Salsa won one-star Great Taste Awards in 2021! Mostly recyclable and ensuring food has a longer shelf life (cutting down on food waste), they plan to grow into the grocery sector and expand their current three-strong team. The team worked with Cywain’s ‘menter a busnes’ project that supports the development of growthorientated businesses in Wales. Do Goodly was part of Cywain’s inaugural ‘Scale-Up Challenge’ programme, an intensive 6-week structured learning programme

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focussing on topics such as Attitude, Accreditation and Upscaling, Finance and Resilience, Communication and Industry Trends. www.dogoodlydips.com Last year 100% of The Little Welsh Chocolate Company’s energy was provided by renewable sources! Packaging that’s 100% recyclable and opting for certified Fair Trade ingredients wherever possible ensuring farmers and producers receive a fair pay. The entire range is free from palm oil and soy, two ingredients causing major problems for our planet currently. Also taking their single use plastics to Capital Valley Plastics to be recycled and turned into damp proofing for local building works. The Little Welsh Chocolate Company is a great example of simple changes that make a big difference to local communities. shopwales.co.uk/collections Halen Dewi, St David’s Sea Salt is produced by solar evaporation, is carbon neutral and environmentally sustainable. Back in 2016, the team were inspired to produce high quality natural sea salt without using gas or electricity. “We began experimenting with sea water evaporation using only the sun and the wind. By autumn 2017, we had perfected our unique process of solar evaporated salt. Since then, our story has continued to be one of environmental sustainability and innovation.” Committed to keeping their natural sea salt pure and unrefined; Halen Dewi’s preservation of quality product, sustainably is one to watch. halendewi.co.uk With climate change now a key factor in many consumers’ buying habits, these businesses show us that we can reduce, reuse and recycle all the while maintaining healthy, thriving businesses. Why not check out some of these products for yourself and experience the quality of some of these Great Taste winner delicacies. menterabusnes.cymru

Inspired by cargoes landed on our west Wales coast, our award-winning contemporary dry gin’s full of warm sweet flavours synonymous with Wales that finish long and smooth.

01239872300 www.inthewelshwind.co.uk info@inthewelshwind.co.uk @inthewelshwind

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News

Hold the front page News by Sasha Smith, Belle Wells, Meg Evans and Billy Stillman

Farmer and TV Presenter Adam Henson to headline Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales The 27th October will see the return of Wales’s largest food and drink event, BlasCymru/TasteWales, which brings the Welsh food and drink industry together with international buyers to help open new markets and trade relationships. One of the main draws of the event this year is the conference, titled ‘Food and Drink for Future Generations’. We’re very excited to see that farmer and tv presenter Adam Henson, known for Countryfile, will be headlining the conference programme! Prominent sustainability and climate change writers and experts will be joining him with the aim to inspire delegates to take action in their organisations and their lives to address the challenges and opportunities presented by climate change. The conference will be opened by the Minister of Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths MS, and hosted by Sara Edwards. The two-day event, sponsored by one of the largest names in the UK food and drink industry, Princes Limited, will be held at the International Convention Centre (ICCW) on 27 & 28 October 2021.

From Campervan Coffee to Artisan Coffee Bar The Thirsty Elephant is a small independent coffee shop, comfortably nestled on Pontyclun high street. If you’re looking for a warm cup of Joe with a smiley knowledgeable barista, this is the place to go! Serving up Coaltown Coffee Roasters as their home brew, it’s a stunning example of the flavours Wales has on offer. Owner Chris learned the art of coffee whilst working at Starbucks. After saving up for a year, he bought his van and spent the next two years seeing what customers liked. Whilst travelling he realised, he wanted to have a regular customer base. Realising there were hardly any coffee shops in the area, he decided to look for a spot for his coffee company. Chris is now looking to expand even more by adding a restaurant to the place with the idea of serving brunch by day and tapas by night. From fuelling the van to fuelling his ideas, The Thirsty Elephant remains a strong presence in Pontyclun. We hope to try the brunch alongside a cup of Welsh brew soon.... www.instagram.com/thethirstyelephant to book a table and keep up with what’s next.

Tickets are available at www.tastewales.com.

Still Waters Run Deep For the dedicated driver, or those making a life-style choice, appealing alcohol-free options are limited. Few come close to the real flavour, aromas and sensation of something that’s gone through the distillation process. Until now. With many years of distilling experience, David O’Brien and his team at Stillers have perfected the world’s first alcohol free distillery here in Wales – Monmouth to be precise. The result is an alcohol-free 100% copper pot distilled botanical drink that finally gives abstainers a ‘proper’ drink. These gin alternatives use Welsh spring water as a base and are handcrafted using traditional processes and the finest grade organic herbs and spices. Available in two versions, there’s the aromatic and spicy Silk Roots, inspired by flavours of the Orient, or the more herbal, Mediterranean influenced, Celtic Myst. Both are excellent and make very convincing G&Ts and gin-based cocktails and are actually very pleasant tipples in their own right. Look out for full reviews in the next issue. www.stillersdrinks.com

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Cardiff Takeaway Transforms into Rotating Restaurant In its first month of opening Riversides’ Neighbourhood Kitchen has been dishing out the deliciousness. It’s ‘rotating menu’ will make each visit special whilst still hosting a familiar cocktail selection to return to. If you’re on the lookout for new venues this autumn, Neighbourhood Kitchen is the place to go. Not only do they have vendors who locally source produce, they have also partnered with Welsh breweries such as Flowerhorn Brewery and Tenby Brewing Co. After visiting recently, I can confirm that I had a breakfast to remember, their monthly resident Rogue Welsh cakes has resurrected your grandma’s old recipe and turned it into a fun flavoursome experience for all. Whether you’re sweet or savoury, your needs will be catered for, and if you’ve never had a Marmite Welsh cake, you’re missing out. Like what you see? Book at table now at https:// neighbourhoodkitchen.co.uk and follow @ neighbourhoodcardiff to keep up with who’s cooking up a storm next…

News

Cobbles Kitchen – Destination Dining When visiting the picturesque beaches Wales has to offer, one of the most popular beaches visitors peruse sits along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, Ogmore-by Sea in The Vale of Glamorgan. Looking over Tusker Rock, we turn to a Grade II listed Farmhouse, Cobbles Kitchen. This café/deli/wedding venue/fish and chip shop offers fun for all and will set the tone of your experience with plenty to choose from. An awardwinning café restaurant with a real focus on delivering honest, delicious food, run by local businesswoman Chloe Oakley and her team. Not only offering exquisite sandwiches and more, the team experimented with flavoursome staples such as the Chilli Cheese while also offering an array of vegan options too! With a generous filling in all their quality delicacies, the Deli offers takeaway sandwiches and other staples for anyone to grab and go. No doubt can be made in it being the quality of their food and service that keeps expectant customers returning. Why not check out their website and try any of the many options for yourself. https://cobbleskitchen.co.uk/

Daffodil’s Delight As many of us have adjusted to shopping online for the past year and a half, what better time to order one of Daffodil Foods’ delicious Welsh afternoon tea hampers? Delivered straight to your door, taste the finest collection of some of Wales’s most popular delicacies. In addition to Daffodil’s very own clotted cream and blueberry compote, and Village Bakery’s fruited scones (which are crucial to an afternoon tea!), Popty Bakery’s Welsh cakes and bara brith, Collier’s Welsh mature cheddar and butter, and Dywfor Paned Pen Fairtrade tea make a noble appearance in this luxurious collection. Signifying some of the best that Wales has to offer, Daffodil’s hamper is ideal for both a group of friends and family, or an individual over a period of time. Whether you’re new to Welsh food or a veteran, this extravagant parcel of goodies is fit for anyone with an appetite! As the festive season is approaching, this would be the ideal gift package to send to a loved one to introduce some Welsh into Christmas. Order online at www,daffodilfoods.co.uk in time for the 25th! Pontypridd’s Hidden Chinese & Korean Kitchen Janet’s Kitchen is something of legends at the indoor market in Pontypridd. Set amongst the bustling streets of the town centre, Janet’s is just a small walk from Ponty Park. The market, known for local produce and little traditional cafes, had a shake up when Janet was looking for a place to set up her Korean / Chinese kitchen. Now, thanks to Janet, the hall is filled with those oh so alluring scents of soft to touch barbecue beef bao, her signature special fried rice and a homemade General Tso chicken.

In the kitchen, it’s just Janet and a server who takes orders and brings the food to the tables. If you’re desperate to try some of Janet’s delicacies head down to Pontypridd Market: opening Hours Tuesday - Saturday 9:00 - 16:00. Visit Janet’s Authentic Northern Chinese & Korean Kitchen on Facebook

A Woozy Western Wind With the rise in popularity of gin in recent years, from pink to Jaffa cake, In the Welsh Wind are taking this liquor experience to the next level. Offering the customer the freedom to create their own concoctions, Tailor Your Gin is the perfect purchase for any gin lover. Become the Willy Wonka of this alcohol factory to make the Three Course Dinner Gin of your dreams. Mix rhubarb with pineapple and lavender, or earl grey with cornflower and goji berry - it’s time to experiment! Once you have decided on a name for your creation, this unique gin will be distilled, packaged and sent to your doorstep right away. As easy and as fun as it sounds, In the Welsh Wind is making gin more exciting and accessible than ever. The bottle will arrive with the title you created for the drink along with your name, making you feel like quite the professional! Whether it’s as a gift or a special treat for yourself, order your very own bottle of personalised potion, whenever and wherever. Head to the Tailor Your Gin section of their website to get yours at £50 per bottle. www.inthewelshwind.co.uk

Iwtopia Vegan Deli - No More Missing Out Off the coast of Mid Wales lies a true rarity - a vegan deli! There’ll be no more missing out with Iwtopia who sells a large range of vegan charcuterie and vegan cheese, along with other vegan groceries, fresh fruit and vegetables and other locally sourced produce. The deli was opened by owner Sue Davies at the start of last year. Sue had been interested in vegan cooking and became a vegan after doing Veganuary in 2018. Sue was disappointed with the flavours of the meat replacements she had tried, so she started looking for recipes to make her own meat replacements when she learnt about seitan. When cooked, seitan makes a delicious substitute with the look and texture of meat but is entirely cruelty free. Sue started experimenting with seitan, and she came up with a recipe for vegan pepperoni that she was happy with. From there she started working on veganising other meats. The deli sells Sue’s artisan seitan on its own, as well as in freshly made subs and wraps that you can take away. Call Iwtopia on 01970 617785 or visit their website https://www.iwtopiadeli.com/

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News

Victory is at Steak

Fresh is Best

29-year-old butcher, Ben Roberts of ME Evans Butchers near Wrexham, was among seven of the finalists at this year’s Butchery WorldSkills UK competition. On the 11th and 12th of November, this group of talented butchers will be heading to Reaseheath College, Nantwich, seeking victory at this prestigious event.

Winning the highly prestigious Golden Fork at this year’s Great Taste awards was Pembrokeshire Lamb Ltd, for their Hogget Shoulder. Aside from the allimportant taste element of the respected competition, owners Kara and Steve Lewis also focused on the significance of sustainability when they set up the company back in 2019. The popular lamb Meat Boxes, packaged in recycled cardboard boxes and 100% naturally sourced wool, as a replacement for plastic, have been gaining substantial recognition, and prove that the couple are here to make a difference.

Roberts, who will be representing Wales on behalf of the Craft Butchery Team, stated, “I have wanted to compete at WorldSkills for several years but, until this year, have always struggled to dedicate the time needed to the competition to make it possible.” With 12 years of experience in the meat industry under his belt, Roberts feels he is ready to compete at WorldSkills and hopefully steal a win. Being the manager of a successful shop, he also hopes that the skills he will inevitably gain from the competition will benefit the prosperity of the business, returning the victor or not. Roberts will also be competing at the highly renowned, global World Butchers Challenge next September 2022, positively saying “Hopefully the skills and experience I gain from both competitions can be brought back into the business and one day allow me to run my own shop” on the matter.

Meet Merthyr’s New Cheesecake Champion The cheesecake guy is putting his own twist on the tasty dessert dish. We visited Merthyr’s epic cheesecake stop spot to give you the ultimate review of The Cheesecake Guy. Before visiting you should know that this place usually has a queue but there’s a genuine reason for it - their cheesecakes are seriously GOOD. As we waited for our turn, customers came out with bags full of cheesecake and we thought perhaps we’d made it too late! The Cheesecake Guy often sells out before you get your eyes on the prize. But alas we made it in and there was a HUGE selection of choice. From his infamous cheesecake jars that you can take away to freshly made slices there are options for the whole family. We opted to try one of the cheesecake shakes, a cheesecake slice, a cheesecake jar and the cookie dough which is served up hot. So, whether you’re looking for a dazzling dessert or just popping in for a tasty treat The Cheesecake Guy has you covered. He also caters for larger orders and does custom orders over on his Instagram.

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However, it all comes down to taste at this event, and the Pembrokeshire Lamb team did not disappoint. On sampling the Hogget Shoulder, one judge said, “It gets no better than this”. Alongside this triumphant success were also awards for their Lamb Shoulder, Mutton Shoulder, Mutton Mince, Signature Burger, Brown Sauce and Indian Style Kebab Rub. The family’s hard work has paid off, and the future is looking very bright for their company’s quality, sustainable and fresh produce. For more information, contact Pembrokeshire Lamb Ltd on 07974 168824 or info@pembrokeshirelamb.co.uk.

Ansh recognised by Size of Wales for Sustainability Efforts Almost a year ago, Ansh restaurant was set up with sustainability at the heart of everything they do, and they’re getting recognised for it! Charities Size of Wales and WWF are using Ansh as a case study due to Ansh’s sustainable, ethical and regenerative commitment as a business. The campaign aims to help Wales eliminate imported tropical deforestation in order to tackle climate change, support biodiversity and protect indigenous people around the world. Restaurant owner Shaun delivers exceptional produce directly from the family farm where sustainable, ethical farming with the highest animal welfare standards is their priority. Their animals are all grass-fed which is not only better for the animals but reduces deforestation. The farm also has an area that was designated as a ‘Site of Special Scientific Interest’ in 1989 and protects rare biodiversity and wildlife. In the last year, Ansh has planted over 6,000 trees! Visit Ansh at 589 Cowbridge Road East, Victoria Park, Cardiff CF5 1BE or contact them on 07498 499787

Restaurant Reviews

Gaerwen Arms, Gaerwen, Anglesey

It’s not often that you find a pub restaurant that ticks all of the boxes – but we think we found one that does just that whilst holidaying in Anglesey this summer. Nestled just off the North Wales Expressway, to the north west of Llanfairpwll, the Gaerwen Arms is a highly recommended place to stop. Great food, affordable, imaginative kids’ menu and doggy heaven

too with free doggy ice creams and lots of love from the staff. Locally sourced meat, dairy and veggies – with many via the local Chelsea Flower show winning greengrocer. Great non-meat options too and 2 AA rosettes - what’s not to like? The Nibbles menu itself really set the tone – with the Spiced welsh wagyu fat popcorn, juicy Gordal olives, and the moreish sweet and salty peanuts. But the standout was the amazing Stout and Onion sourdough with roast beef butter – OMG – the latter we guarantee you could eat until the cows come home. Moving on to the starters – the Anglesey onion soup with hazelnut, malt and ale loaf was a great ‘comfortfood’ combo. The beer braised crispy duck – carrot and vanilla, passionfruit, gingerbread was another inventive taste sensation. While the kids tucked into very accomplished pub staples, the grown-ups were able to delight in mains you’d expect of a 2 AA Rosette gastro pub. The substantial Gaerwen burger with local Gouda Mon rarebit, bacon jam and triple cooked chips was sublime. The Beer battered cod was melt in the mouth, perfectly cooked local fresh fish cocooned in delightfully light beer batter. The crispy marinated tofu curry, coconut sticky rice, garlic and coriander naan, onion bhaji and coriander yoghurt was mouth-wateringly flavoursome – not often you say that about tofu - and artfully presented on wooden servers and chic Welsh slatecoloured plates. The Wild Mushroom Wellington made with a king oyster ragu, savoy and preserved wild garlic was a rich, delicious and comforting main to warm the cockles of even the most dedicated meat-eater. The Pant Du cider pork belly didn’t disappoint either – a lovely crispy outer and sumptuous underneath – complemented perfectly with a charred broccoli, locally made Mon Las blue cheese side. Unusual to single out a side but the tangy blue cheese flavour mingled perfectly with the charred broccoli – with almonds adding delightful texture. Mon Las is a Royal Welsh Supreme Champion Cheese, hand made by Menai Jones using milk from pedigree Friesian cows and Halen Mon sea-salt. Locally sourced perfection – and just one example of the thought brought to dishes. As for the puds, though tempted by the locally renowned ‘Anglesey Chocolate Pebble’, a dish created during lockdown of white chocolate shell, dark chocolate mousse and a liquid, Halen Mon salted caramel on a bed of real pebbles and garnished with seasonal local fruit, the adults were already perfectly sated. But the kids wanted more and had fun with the huge, gooey toasted marshmallows and caramel sauce. Awarded 2 AA Rosettes in 2019 not long after Andy and Ollie took over the pub, we suspect it won’t be long before they get an outstanding 3rd. Paul Spencer

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Nant Restaurant,

Restaurant Reviews

Nantgarw, Cardiff

Hidden amongst an unsuspecting college building is one of my best found gems in South Wales. Just on the outskirts of Cardiff and the border to the valleys, this place is showcasing a lot of talent. A small entranceway leads you into the restaurant and immediately a friendly accommodating face meets you at the door. As we walked in, the room was full of life and brightness which echoed in the liveliness of the menu. Firstly, I went for the stuffed ballontine of chicken served with a truffle & mushroom purée and a chive cream reduction as it really jumped out to me on the menu. The power of the earthy mushroom brought a contrast to the reduction and created a really complex taste against the tenderness of the chicken. I then moved on to the roast goose breast which was served with red chard, celeriac and blue cheese purée, treacle roast parsnip and fondant. The intense flavour and richness of the goose could only be created by cooking it to perfection. The blue cheese purée was sharp and salty which then developed into a sweetness with the treacle parsnip. It really takes your taste buds on a journey. To finish, I felt like I needed something sharp to cleanse my palette of the strong developing flavours. Perfect, I thought, looking at the passionfruit and dark chocolate tart which was made with passionfruit curd on top of chocolate soil and served with pistachio ice cream. The sharpness of the curd contrasted with the nuttiness of the ice cream, and the chocolate added a naughtiness to this dessert which changed the overall feeling of lightness to something more indulgent. Nant runs it’s restaurants differently from most college based places, where professionals are usually assisted by students. In Nant’s case, the kitchen is run wholly by students with tutor supervision. We spoke to tutor Max who explained that they source all the meat and fish from the local butcher and fishmonger. They try to get ingredients sourced as close to the college as possible. He told us, to our surprise, that it was actually this years’ students first lunch service and we were shocked due to how hospitable and professional the waiters were for their first ever shift. The menu changes every two weeks which makes Nant a unique culinary adventure each visit. The first menus are decided by a tutor and then the students are left to create their own visions. At only £14.95 for three courses, Nant will always be on my list for amazing quality and skillfully made courses for a reasonable price. It paves the way for new growing talent in South Wales, and I for one am lucky to have tasted this year’s students offerings. Book on: 01443 663050 Website: https://www.cymoedd.ac.uk/restaurants Reviewed by Isabelle Wells

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Recipes

Welsh Beef goulash Prep time: 20 mins | Cook time: 2 hours | Serves: 4

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •

750g PGI Welsh Beef chuck steak (braising steak), cut into chunky cubes 2 large onions, cut into wedges 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp oil Seasoning 1 tbsp paprika 1 tbsp smoked paprika 150g chestnut mushrooms, quartered Splash of red wine vinegar 1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into chunks 1 orange pepper, deseeded and cut into chunks 2 tbsp tomato purée

• 600ml beef stock • 1 x 400g tin of chopped tomatoes • 1 tbsp cornflour to thicken (if required) To serve: • Soured cream • Parsley, chopped • Crusty bread

Method 1.

Preheat the oven to 170˚C / 150˚C fan / Gas 3.

Heat the oil in a pan or flameproof casserole dish and fry the beef in two batches until nice and brown. Return all the beef into the dish.

Add the onions and mushrooms and fry for a few minutes to colour. Add the garlic

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and stir for a further minute. 4.

Add the paprika spices and stir well. Add a splash of red wine vinegar.

Add the tomatoes, stock and seasoning, stir well and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 1 hour 30 minutes.

Add the peppers and cook for a further 30 minutes or until the beef is tender.

Prior to serving, thicken if required.

Serve with spoonfuls of soured cream and chopped parsley.

Delicious served with chunky bread, rice or buttered pasta.

Award-winning Charcuterie

Home of

Hand-crafted in Wales Free-From GLUTEN Full-of FLAVOUR

Welsh Charcuterie & Smokehouse produce an exquisite range of award winning ready-to-eat air-dried hams and slow-fermented salami, made from high-welfare pork, delicately ﬂavoured with herbs and freshly ground spices

A delicious farm-to-cracker experience thebakerspig.com

#welshcharcuterie

To advertise in taste.blas magazine call Paul on 029 2019 0224. The magazine that celebrates food and drink in Wales www.taste-blas.co.uk

Herb Crusted Welsh PGI Lamb, Potato gratin Puree

Recipes

As the weather turns colder, its time to have a go at some Welsh winter recipes. In this addition, we are celebrating Welsh PGI Lamb off the back of Love Lamb Week that is celebrated every September. What does PGI mean? Protected Geographical Indication – or PGI – is a way of recognising a specific geographical area that produces high-quality food and drink. This means that PGI Welsh Lamb is different and has special characteristics that are unique to Wales and cannot be replicated anywhere else. So why not take a trip to your local butchers and food producers and try this recipe at home for family and friends. #supportlocal #lovelambweek

Ingredients

Method

serves 4

For the Lamb Preheat the oven to 180 (Fan) To prep the lamb, remove any excess meat off the bones and scrape them clean with the blade of your knife. Score the fat on both the rack and the rump and season generously. Pan fry both pieces until evenly golden then place in the oven: Lamb rack for 12-14 minutes Lamb rumps for 14-16 Minutes then leave to rest

Welsh PGI Lamb • •

4 bone rack of Welsh PGI lamb 2x 8oz square cut rump of Welsh PGI lamb

Potato Gratin Puree • • • • • •

5 Large Maris piper(peeled) 1 head of garlic (Fine diced) 1 bunch thyme (Picked) 1tsp Halon Mon Welsh Salt 1tsp Cracked black pepper 200ml Double Cream

Vegetables • • • • •

100g Peas 100g Samphire 100g Sweetcorn 1tsb Welsh rapeseed oil 1 Pack baby carrots

Herb Crust • • • •

1 bunch coriander 1 bunch parsley 1 bunch lovage Sourdough off cuts

Jus Roti • •

200ml White Castle Welsh white wine 100g Dragon Salted Welsh butter

For the Potato Gratin Puree Slice the potatoes on a mandolin to approximately 1-3mm. Mix with salt, pepper, garlic and thyme. Layer into a deep tray overlapping each piece slightly until the tray is full or you run out of potato. Cover with the cream and bake for 1 hour until a small knife passes through with ease then place through a potato ricer to make the puree For the Herb Crust Place the bread into a food processer and then tear up the soft herbs and blitz all these together until a green breadcrumb is formed. Spread onto a baking tray and bake for 10 mins to dry out then set aside to cool. For the Vegetables Halve the carrots and blanch in salted boiling water until al dente. Mix the peas, samphire, sweetcorn in a pan with a tea spoon of rapeseed oil and cook until the samphire has slightly wilted.

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For the Sauce Take the pan you cook the lamb in and deglaze with the white wine removing all cooking residue, pour in all cooking juices and begin to reduce. Once the mix has reduced by half, add in the cubed butter cube at a time and emulsify to thicken. To Serve Swipe the puree over the plate, slice the rack and rump. Brush one side of the rack with Dijon mustard and dip into the cooled herb crumb. Arrange onto the plate with a line of the vegetable mixture, baby carrots and then drizzle generously with the Jus roti.

The techniques and skills used in this recipe are taught to apprentices, who are working towards an Apprenticeship Level 2 & 3 in Professional Cookery and covers preparing meat, cooking & finishing of complex dishes. For more information about how we can help support your business or help you become an apprentice, please contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or email; info@ cambriantraining.com If you love cooking why not think about a career in Hospitality, we have lots of job vacancies open take a look at our jobs page HERE for more information (https://www.cambriantraining.com/wp/ en/jobs/)

Recipes

Beijing Burger, Asian Slaw and Sunomono Serves 6 | Prep time 45 minutes | Cook time 15 minutes

• •

Ingredients

• • • • • • • • • • •

For the burgers • 1 tbsp rapeseed oil • 125g edamame beans, cooked • 1 x 400g tin black beans, drained • 125g courgette, grated • 1 medium carrot, grated • 50g panko breadcrumbs • 50g blanched peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped • ½ medium onion, finely chopped • Small bunch coriander, chopped • 75g beansprouts, cut in half • 2 replacement eggs (I used Orgran No Egg) • 1 teaspoon Chinese 5 spice • Sea salt and black pepper • 1 tablespoon plain flour • 6 rolls or burger buns • 12 little gem leaves For the Asian slaw • 2 tablespoons crunchy peanut butter • 400g white cabbage, finely shredded • 1 red pepper, finely sliced

• • •

4 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal 1 large clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tablespoon soya sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sriracha 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds Pinch salt For the sunomono 1 cucumber, peeled 2 tablespoons rice vinegar ½ tablespoon golden caster sugar 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, very finely chopped or grated 1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped 1 spring onion, finely sliced ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

Method 1.

Firstly, make the sunomono: cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and slice as thinly as possible into half-moons. Mix together all the other ingredients. Pour the dressing over the cucumber, making sure all the pieces are well coated. Cover and refrigerate.

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Next, make the slaw: in a large mixing bowl, combine the peanut butter, garlic, salt, soya sauce, vinegar and sriracha. Mix well, then add the other ingredients and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Next, make the burgers: Put the black beans in a food processor and chop, then add the edamame beans and pulse a few times until chopped but retaining some texture. Squeeze as much juice as possible out of the courgette, then, in a large mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients, except for the flour.

Lightly flour a board or worktop and firmly shape your mixture into six patties. Put the patties on a plate in the fridge for half an hour or so to firm up. In a large heavy-based frying pan, fry the patties in the oil over medium to high heat for 5 minutes or so, then turn and fry for another 5 minutes or until they are golden and crispy. Serve in the buns or rolls on the little gem leaves, the Asian slaw, then the burger topped with the sunomono.

Recipe from Funny Food by Jane Reynolds and Huw Jones, published by Graffeg £9.99 from Waterstones and Graffeg.com

Recipes

Slow roasted belly porc with apple, honey and cinnamon Serves: 4 | Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cooking Time: 2 hours

Method

Ingredients

• • • • • • • •

Take the flat piece of porc belly, dry the rind and score deeply with a sharp knife.

Line a shallow roasting tin with two large pieces of foil and add to this the apple juice, seasoning and spices.

Place the porc onto the foil and tuck the foil around the joint so that the liquid is against the belly joint, but the top is left

700g piece of lean porc belly 300ml cloudy apple juice seasoning 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 apples, cored and quartered 2 plums, stoned and halved 2 large sprigs of fresh sage 1 tbsp honey

Preheat the oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4.

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dry and exposed. Brush the rind with oil and sprinkle with salt. Open roast for about one hour. 5.

Add the apples, plums and sage. Now cover over the whole joint with foil and return to the oven for a further hour.

Once cooked, carefully open the foil, drizzle the rind with honey and place under a preheated grill for about 5 minutes to finish off the crackling.

Cut the belly into thick slices, drizzle with sauce and serve with fruit.

Recipes

Welsh Beef steak and ale pie Prep time: 15 mins | Cook time: 2 hours | Serves: 6 (freezes well)

Method

Ingredients

Season the flour and use to coat the beef.

Spoon the filling mixture into the pie dish.

Heat the oil in a large pan or flameproof casserole dish and fry the beef in 2 batches until brown. Remove from the pan.

Add the butter, garlic, onions and mushrooms to the pan and fry for a few minutes. Return the beef to the pan.

Roll out the pastry for the pie top. Cut 4 long thin strips from the edge of the pastry. Brush the edge of the dish with the beaten egg. Use the strips to place around the edge of the pie dish, and brush with egg.

Add the tomato purée, Worcestershire sauce, ale, stock, bay leaf and herbs. Stir well and bring to the boil.

Place the pastry gently over the filling and strips. Trim any pastry that hangs over the edge.

Simmer on a low heat for 1 hour 30 minutes until the meat is tender (thicken if required). Remove the lid and allow to cool slightly.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

900g (or 2 x 450g packs) of pre diced PGI Welsh Beef chuck or stewing steak 25g flour Seasoning 2 tbsp oil 25g butter 2 large onions, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, sliced 150g chestnut mushrooms, quartered 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 bay leaf 500ml ale 400ml beef stock Handful of fresh herbs e.g. thyme, parsley, oregano 1 pack of puff or shortcrust pastry 1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 200˚C / 180˚C fan / Gas 6.

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10. Press and crimp the edges and use any remaining pastry to decorate the pie top. 11. Brush with the beaten egg and place in the oven. Bake for approximately 25-30 minutes until the top is golden brown and the filling is piping hot.

BREWED IN WALES ENJOYED EVERYWHERE ALC. 5.0% Vol.

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Tasty Morsels

Food and Drink

Food and drink reviews to tantalise your taste buds The Bakers Pig Charcuterie With an ambitious expansion planned for 2022, Liz and Andy Baker’s Carmarthenshire based charcuterie business The Baker’s Pig is destined for bigger things. Thanks to a dedicated fanbase, keeping up with demand for their lines of handmade Welsh salami’s and assorted charcuterie, cured from their own freerange woodland pigs, has been a challenge so new production facilities beckon. We felt it was high time to take a look at what the fuss is about. First up is the Pink Gin Salami, which we were immediately drawn to. Firm and moist, with a great texture, it has well balanced seasoning and an extremely pleasant slow-developing after-taste that hints of the botanicals used – a fun puzzle to solve. We reckon, juniper, obviously, may be fennel, coriander seed and a refreshing citrusy tang. A winner to be sure. Next was the Pepper Coppa, a dry-cured ham that uses top loin. Wow, this is delicious. With only Sea Salt and a generous helping of black pepper for company, the quality of the pork shines – well marbled and full of deep flavour. Then the after glow of the pepper arrives. I defy you not to stop at a couple of slices. It gets better though. The narrower Picante Salami, packs a gentle kick that’s at once, sweet, smoky and with a nice bit of heat. A personal fave. And finally, there’s another spicy little number, the spreadable Salami. Think a salami paste in a sausage skin, with a healthy splash of paprika and assorted spices. It has a lovely balanced, umami mix of flavours and works a treat on sour-dough toast. No wonder there’s so much interest! www.thebakerspig.com

The Melting Pot - a fabulous collection of world recipes from Wales. Maggie Ogunbanwo’s new book The Melting Pot, with photography by Huw Jones, brings together a collection of delicious recipes from around the globe and encompasses classic dishes from, Syria, Bali, Jamaica, Nigeria and more. The Melting Pot celebrates the contributions and diversity of the Welsh BAME community and the cultural importance of dishes and culinary influences. Maggie, whose roots are in Nigeria, lives in north Wales, her business, Maggie’s An African Twist To Your Everyday Dish ®, operates from the former Red Lion pub in the village of Penygroes – now Maggie’s home, and a church. Maggie describes herself as an instinctive cook and the recipes are an extension of her contact with food traditions in many areas, including India, the Caribbean, and more. Delicious recipes including her Saltfish Fritters and Quick Chicken Jollof Rice feature in the book, as well as Maggie’s recipes, a host of other contributors have added to The Melting Pot including, Latifa Al Najjar - Syrian Dinner Project, Chioma Njoku, and more! A great addition to your collection and perfect for adding a little zest to family dinners! www.graffeg.com £9.99.

The Pembrokeshire Gin Co. The Pembrokeshire Gin Co. sent me a sample of each of their speciality gins to try and they did not disappoint. Inspired by the beautiful coastal surroundings of Tenby, the bottles are beautifully presented with a wax seal and the distinctive logo of the town’s famous lifeboat station.

Welsh Witch Dry Gin Deep in the mystic North Wales the Welsh Witch mixes her potion. Wild Moon launched in 2019 and the mythical branding has allured people ever since. The gin has juniper that jumps on your tongue followed by a range of botanicals which bring citrus to the taste and floral aromas highlight the sweetness. By locally forging gorse flowers this gin is handcrafted and especially local to North Wales. The London Spirits silver award winning magical cauldron of flavours can be served on the rocks or in your favourite ginspired cocktail. Website: https://www.wild-moon.co.uk/ Price: £36 for 50cl

They developed the gin with Alex Jungmayr and Ellen Wakelam at In The Welsh Wind Distillery, who we reviewed in our previous issue, and have since opened a Pembrokeshire Gin Co shop in Tenby. Their Tenby Dry Gin’s main botanical is rosemary due to its growing wild around the coastline, giving a gentle refresher along with the citrus notes - it’s no surprise that this gin won The Gin Guide Awards Best in Wales 2020 award, so it really can’t be missed! Their other gins, the Welsh Cake Dry Gin and their Navy Strength Gin, along with the Tenby Gin, also won gold medals at the 2021 Gin Masters, becoming the first Welsh brand to win gold for all of its gins in one competition! Also, picking up two coveted Great Taste Awards in 2021 too. Their Welsh Cake Dry Gin is a lovely change from conventional gin flavours, whilst the Navy Strength is perfect at the end of a long, hard day. www.pembsginco.co.uk

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Food and Drink

Samosaco Homestyle Curry A regular at food festivals across Wales, Pontyclun based Samosaco have built a great reputation for their vegetarian Indian food, particularly their samosas and related savouries. They’ve been steadily branching out in a number of respects in recent times, both in terms of how far and wide their appeal extends and the size and breadth of their range. They’ve recently won UK wide contracts with Ocado and xxx which will include their new range of sauces. Having tried three of them we can vouch for the fact that Ocado’s decision to stock Samosaco is fully warranted and their customers, if they have any sense at all, will become converts. Why? Well, there’s the obvious vegetarian appeal for a start. More of us are eating veggie/vegan meals and I’m not aware of many mainstream brands that are solely veggie. Secondly, they don’t use additives or tons of salt and sugar – so they’re as healthy as can be. But chief is taste. The Keralan Aubergine Curry was unbelievable chunky, and therefore filling, with masses of lovely al dente aubergine in a warmly spiced savoury sauce where the spices and flavours from the aubergine are allowed to shine without sugary or salty distraction. It was a hearty meal. I’ve not eaten in an Indian home in some time but this is how I remember it. Likewise, the Spinach Chickpea and Sweet Potato curry, though more delicately spiced, with flavours of garlic, cumin, coriander and ginger, it’s similarly low in salt and sugar, very filling, thanks to plentiful spinach and chickpeas, and also a zinger. Price: £2.99 from ocado or www.samosaco.co.uk

Goch & Co - Spicy Red Onion Marmalade Goch & Co, an award winning preserves and regulars on the rostrum at Great Taste, have left our mouths drooling with the spicy red onion marmalade. Recipes that have been developed from Mozambique all the way to North Wales, there is some real history in their family recipes. This marmalade is seriously rich, sweet and savory with a gentle kick that slowly develops. The deep sweet flavour of the onion contrasts with the mild chilli flavour to make any cheese night a big hit. Perfect on crackers and grilled meats this marmalade is versatile, working well with blue cheese or goats cheese. Available as gluten free, vegan and using high quality ingredients guarantee you flavour with Goch & Co. Website: https://www.gochandcompany.co/ Price: £3.74 for 130g

Wye Valley Meadery – Hive Mind Honeyed Beers When serendipity intervened to give Matt and Kit at Wye Valley Meadery the opportunity to take on a brewery, they leapt at the chance. Since starting in 2018, using their own Wye Valley honey, they’ve developed a range of exquisite meads that are light and refreshing – mention the ones sent in the box here. And now, thanks to the brewery, they’ve introduced honeyed beer. Ingeniously, and with much patience, they’ve cracked a technique that maintains the integrity of the honey (some honeyed beers use flavourings or boil, thus ruining, the honey) so that drinkers can savour its true taste in the beer. The result is stunning. Firstly, it needs to emphasised their ‘technique’ keeps simultaneously preserves the honey but stops it from making the beer over-poweringly sweet – that’s the clever bit. To the beer. Golden Hour is pale, only 4.5% and nice and easy going. Made with heather honey, it has a pronounced honey, almost herby, aroma – that smell you get when you open a jar. On the palate though, whilst still present it gives way to a more balanced flavour – slightly tart but neither sweet nor overly bitter, moderately hoppy, biscuity and a little reminiscent of champagne. Could drink it for hours. The Honey Citra IPA is a lively chap at 5.7%, with a good head. The honey aroma isn’t quite as strong, due to more hops and citrus notes, but the flavour is deeper and a little less dry with a lovely honey-tinged aftertaste. Cracking. Big Smoke Porter is, er, smoky. It’s also a hefty 7.5% and honey-est of the three but it works really well thanks to the counterbalance of smoke and porter tang. The bees knees. www.wyevalleymeadery.co.uk

Fudge Pots - Bengali Five Spice Freshly prepared by Catrin and Rita this fudge is super indulgent and beautifully flavoured. Rita being of Bengali heritage adds her own spices whilst Catrin brings her welsh fudge recipe to the table. The richness of the fudge is really creamy and smooth whilst the five spice packs the punch and makes the flavours develop into bittersweet, warm and nutty. A really unusual and must try fudge for any sweet treat connoisseurs. They offer 3 different collections which are Original, Spiced and Vegan so you are guaranteed to find your flavour. Website: https://www.fudgepots.co.uk/ Price: £3.95 for 180g bag

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Tyfu busnes trwy gydweithio Growing business through collaboration

We’ve supported

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o gwmniau bwyd a diod yng Nghymru

food and drin k companies in Wales

wyt ti’n meddwl am sefydlu busnes bwyd a diod?

Would you like to start a food or drink business?

Efallai gall Cywain eich helpu chi, gan ein bod yn gweithio gyda busnesau yng Nghymru i roi’r help a’r wybodaeth sydd eu hangen arnyn nhw i ddatblygu a ffynnu.

Cywain may be able to help you, as we work with businesses from across Wales to provide them with the help and knowledge they need to develop and flourish.

3 Ein nod yw helpu ein cynhyrchwyr bwyd a diod anhygoel i dyfu i fod yn fusnesau proffidiol, arloesol a chynaliadwy, tra hefyd yn creu swyddi gwerthfawr i’r economi leol.

3 Our aim is to help our incredible food and drink producers to grow profitable, innovative and sustainable businesses, whilst also creating valuable jobs for the local economy.

Cysylltwch â ni am fwy o wybodaeth...

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cywain@menterabusnes.co.uk Cronfa Amaethyddol Ewrop ar gyfer Datblygu Gwledig: Ewrop yn Buddsoddi mewn Ardaloedd Gwledig European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in Rural Areas

Cupboard Love Myfanwy Alexander

Friends, I have fallen in love and the love is requited. We were brought together by a wise friend who understands us both and we are now living together in great felicity. In fact, I can only with difficulty remember what life was like when I did not share it with this paragon, who happens to be a glorious cupboard. Its bulky magnificence has made the rest of the kitchen look very shabby but I cannot wait for the improvements to be complete before inviting friends to come and worship. The installation of the love of my life meant the removal of hideous units but before demolition, I had to empty them… First went out-of-date tins, bought when dinosaurs roamed the earth and over which the fear of botulism hung like a cloud. Next, obscure items which had smuggled themselves in via hampers, not with delicacies in wicker, more a cardboard box wrapped in Christmas paper containing whatever they had in the Londis. There is a tin of evaporated milk which I literally cannot imagine how to use, unlike condensed, that harbinger of creamy delight, in home-made Baileys or a luscious banoffee. Last to be cleared were the student remnants; crumpled packing containing half a nest of dried noodles, three sachets of instant soup which look as if they were the sole survivors of a bitter military campaign, and a dark, mysterious bottle whose label is not written in any language I have ever seen before and whose qualities are a mystery. Next I faced the challenge of filling it with items which were equal to its levels of handsome utility. The shelves sweep out on elegant little rollers so there are no unseen corners in which grotty jars might lurk. As it is the season for preserving, I am on a mission to pickle and jam my way to full cupboard status. In the season of gluts, friends invite you round for a tea, but you leave with a marrow the size of the Gower. I sourced some rather elderly cucumbers from a ‘help yourself ’ box and they were delicious, with an almost

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floral scent and flesh which proclaimed kinship with melons. The skin, however, was suitable for footwear or pub upholstery so I removed it before pickling the slices in vinegar embellished with star anise. Next in the ‘free to a loving home’ category are the runner beans, which require suitable treatment. When I was a child, we had a rectangular frame of Bakelite strung across with blades of legendary sharpness. I was allowed to pull the runner beans through this frame, aware that I was risking death if I sliced myself instead. Even this device did not deal with the tough strings which run the length of even the most carefully bred bean. They need to be removed before preserving takes place, otherwise the resultant pickle has the consistency of a Brillo pad. But good bean chutney is a rare treat. Jams are just for fun, really, so should be acquired or made in a spirit of excess. Never do I feel more spoiled when asked, at the Ivy Café in Montgomery, what jam I would like with my scone? (I always go for Morello Cherry, but if I ate a scone a week there for a year, I’d hardly taste the range.) I tend rather to make strawberries into ice-cream or add them to basil and peppercorns for a knockout Pimms so look for less usual jams. Apple, though it never achieves a strong set, even with lemon added, is delicious on toast, with cinnamon or ginger and you can also use it with blackberries, if you struggle with pips and fillings. Lurk around market stalls for bargain boxes; nectarines, plums and limes can enhance your cupboard in curds and compotes as well as jams. But with companies throughout Wales producing such delights as The Preservation Society’s Apricot, Almond & Amaretto Preserve, Calon Lan’s Damson Jam or any of the jewelled glories from Radnor Preserves, maybe I’ll hang up my preserving pan and sit down with a slice of toast by the Rayburn, admiring my open cupboard with its dragon’s hoard of glittering treats.

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Welsh Lamb and Rosemary Pie

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Taste. Blas magazine issue 8: Autumn 2021

Articles inside

Cupboard Pleasures

Recipes

Hold the Front

ey’re Back

Producer Pro le

Conservative Party

Green Shoots

Chef Pro le

Plumming the depths