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Valentines Day: Fragrant gifts for that special someone
espritcontents COVERS: HUGO Music Limited Edition HUGO Man is now available as HUGO Music Limited Edition. It’s music… turned upside down. HUGO Music is a fresh perfume with a fruity top note built around green apple followed by aromatic notes. The base note is reminiscent of a stroll in the woods with hints of pine needles, Sandalwood and Cedarwood
Contents 6 esprit News As a new year begins, esprit takes a look at what’s making the news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author and Jasmine Award winner, Persolaise - this month, he looks ahead to upcoming perfume releases, which are causing excitement on the internet
20 Valentine’s Day Feature - The New Romantics As Valentine’s Day approaches, it’s a significant event for fragrance and beauty sales - esprit takes a look at some of the desirable ‘lust-haves’ on offer Co-Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Director/Publisher Linda Key Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terry Wilson Regular Contributors Graeme Wilson, Imogen Matthews, Jocelyn Bailey, Penny Farmer, Persolaise, Petsa Kaffens, Tricia Welch, Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk
24 Professional Gadget Feature Following-on from last month’s personal beauty appliance feature, Jocelyn Bailey focuses her attention on the technological innovations in mechanical and electronic devices - equipment created to further enhance beauty...not to sell to the customer, but to boost sales in skincare and makeup
26 Beauty Related Some of the new products being featured this month that are making their way into the marketplace, include: Hugo Music - a limited edition fragrance; Marni Rose, the latest launch from the Italian fashion label; POREfessional Agent Zero Shine - Benefit’s latest weapon in the fight for smoother looking skin and Magnetic Nude, a limited edition makeup collection from MAC
Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non refundable), post paid. Back copies: £12 per issue Printers Colouration 13 Falcon Court, St Martins Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.co.uk W: www.colouration.co.uk Esprit ISSN 1364-9922
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All rights reserved. Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source. All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.
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editor’s welcome Hello! I hope you all had a peaceful Christmas and a very Happy New Year and let’s hope that 2014 is going to be a prosperous one, all round! I am starting my Eds letter sitting on a hanging bench near the water’s edge with a bright blue sky above me and listening to the clatter coming from the flock of geese that have just landed on the water. Everything around me is picture perfect and hard to believe that Christmas is just a few days away.
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While in the States, I’ve noticed that the majority of stores do not offer huge discounts on items before Christmas Eve. However, as there is no Boxing Day in the States, the 26th is the start of the ‘big sales’ and discounts such as 50%, 70% and 80% are the norm in most stores. I am in a dilemma! Do I stay in and overdose on popcorn and marshmallows, or hit the sales. I did the latter and picked up some great deals without the hustle and bustle of bargain hunters grabbing everything and anything in site. In fact, my American friend calls a busy time when there are 15 people roaming the store. In the UK, there would be 15 people just queuing to pay at each till. Meanwhile, with Valentine’s Day on its way, there will be many counters getting ready to preen and promote the brands. In this issue we have published a selection of ‘lovely’ products suitable to buy for ‘that special someone’. Furthermore, turn to page 24 to discover the benefits of beauty treatments carried out with professional gadgets. And, of course, we have our regular pages on News, Beauty Related and the informative column from the award-winning Persolaise. Enjoy the read!
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Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor
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espritnews
Beauty Industry comes together to celebrate Christmas in style ‘The Celebration of Christmas’ - a fitting title for Look Good Feel Better’s 15th annual Carol Concert, was indeed the perfect way to celebrate not only the repeated success and popularity of this event, but also the fantastic achievements of the charity over the past 20 years
Chris Good, Managing Director Estée Lauder Companies
Over 550 guests filled the beautifully decorated St George’s Church in Hanover Square for the magical evening of music and stunning performances. Anne Pitcher, Managing Director, Selfridges
£800 on the evening. Total funds raised by the Carol Concert have exceeded £20,000 and LGFB is extremely grateful to everyone for their continued support.
Njabulo Madlala pays tribute to Nelson Mandela
Look Good Feel Better’s carol concert held at the beautifully decorated St George’s Church in Hanover Square
Everything was truly magical, from the splendour of St. Barts Choir, under the direction of the ever-exuberant Conductor, Ivor Setterfield, to the superb soloists and brilliant accompanists. Interspersed among the musical performances were delightful readings by Chris Good, Managing Director, Estée Lauder, Anne Pitcher, Managing Director,
Pianist, Annie Yim accompanying violinist, Satoko Fukuda
Selfridges and an address from LGFB’s Chairman, Susan Taylor, who highlighted how LGFB has had an extremely successful year, but will reach even more women and teenage cancer patients during their 20th Anniversary year through the introduction of some important new initiatives, including
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Master-classes and an innovative Mobile Service. After the Concert, everyone enjoyed a festive drink and mince pies while mingling with old friends and colleagues. LGFB offered sincere thanks to their very generous sponsors, as well as Dawn Evident, from Colouration, for the stunning Concert Programme and to all guests who kindly donated over
violinist, Satoko Fukuda
IOMA takes on Asia The high-tech skincare brand IOMA has opened its first retail counter in Singapore in the brand new Robinsons Department Store on the famous Orchard Road shopping boulevard. It is the first stepping stone to further Asian expansion
accelerate its international growth and benefit from the R&D capabilities of a leading group. IOMA’s founder and CEO, Jean Michel Karam, is currently scouting locations for freestanding stores in New York and Paris. The new IOMA counter in Singapore
Measuring over 45m2, the counter features all of the familiar IOMA ingredients including the IOMA Sphere 2 skin measuring diagnostic device and a treatment room for high-tech individual consultation. IOMA has recently entered into a strategic alliance with Unilever to
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Beauty on the go! Citroën UK and Benefit Cosmetics have collaborated on a one-off version of Citroën’s DS3 Called ‘DS3 by Benefit’, the colourful model is an exploration of ideas and themes in a unique concept which
marks the start of a new partnership between the two brands. Making its debut at last month’s Clothes Show Live in Birmingham, DS3 by Benefit is based on a range-topping DSport powered by Citroën’s sporty THP 155 engine. On the exterior, the concept uses colours from the Benefit palette with the brand’s signature pink and yellow ‘Candy Stripes’ motif and a graphic of the San Francisco skyline - Benefit’s spiritual home - along the side profile. The stylish alloy wheels are detailed in white and pink with the Benefit logo on the wheel rims, alongside the Citroën chevron centre caps.
The yellow wing mirrors offset the pink body, with the floating roof sporting the pink and yellow ‘Candy Stripes’ pattern. The interior has been reupholstered in fine Italian leather with the Candy Stripe design on the seats, headrests, and parcel shelf, with pink detailing features throughout. There is also a ‘hello gorgeous’ graphic on the passenger side of the dashboard. Bespoke LED lighting, Citroën DS3 luxurious deep pile floor by Benefit mats with pink leather edging and Benefit ‘Iconic words of wisdom’ scatter cushions add to the custom features and the armrest has even been converted to house a custom makeup kit containing a selection of Benefit products. Other smart touches include a handbag hook, fragrance dispenser, and an ornate vanity mirror emerging from the dashboard. Ian Marshall and Gail Bojarski, Managing Directors of Benefit Cosmetics UK, said: ”Benefit has never shied away from doing things a little differently; it’s evident that we share this brave and creative ambition with Citroën and DS3 line. We love this concept and there’s no doubt it will make gals across the country smile no end. We really hope to take things further and translate some of these ideas into a proper road-going Citroën and Benefit DS3 collaboration.”
Moving on up Guerlain is delighted to announce that Hélène Carouge has joined the UK team as Marketing Director Helene has been with LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics for the past 10 years, having started with Acqua di Parma before moving to Dior where she gradually moved up to the position of Group Product Manager on Beauty. The Guerlain team is thrilled to welcome such a strong Manager with extensive beauty and fragrance experience, as well as great understanding of UK Retail.
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Oiled from top-to-toe Leonor Greyl has developed a body and hair oil that is now in UK distribution It contains a distinctive scent of Tahitian gardenia to help carry the senses away to the Caribbean, while deeply moisturising body and hair during the dark cold, wet British winter. Huile Secret de Beauté by Leonor Greyl is designed to make skin soft, silky and delicate and also leaves the hair silky and shiny too. With a sensuous perfume of Lemon Grass, Tiaré Flower, Huile Secret de and Yucca, Beauté by Leonor this natural Greyl composition of flower and vegetable oils will make hair and skin feel soft and luxurious. Using some organically certified and all natural ingredients, this oil is free of added silicone, parabens or coal tar and has natural UV filters to help protect skin and hair from the sun. Convenient and simple to use, Huile Secret de Beauté will protect and help to restore the skins natural PH balance as well as improve its silk like quality. In addition, it also beautifies and strengthens the hair all year round and is ideal for winter stressed locks. Recently voted as one of the UK’s best new oils, Leonor Greyl Huile Secret de Beauté is available from Selfridges, Harrods Pharmacy and net-a-porter.com
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Innovations in mechanical and electronic devices have created all sorts of technological beauty equipment, not to sell to customers, but to boost sales of both skincare and make-up. There’s nothing new about on-counter sales gadgets. Clinique’s old abacus-style computer, which diagnosed skin types and prescribed appropriate skin care, kicked-off the trend in 1968. This proved so successful that it was
forty years before it was superseded. But even Clinique eventually had to make changes, so in 2011 they applied the same streamlined diagnosis/recommendation principles to customised Apple iPads instead, and these now provide custom-fit product recommendations. “Today’s consumer has more tools and devices than ever before to communicate, connect and learn. From the explosion of smartphones to Google to Facebook, our consumers are looking beyond a one-dimensional experience,” explains Ricardo Quintero, Clinique’s Senior Vice President, Global General Manager. Other Clinique tools include the Dermatological Diagnostic Mirror, which magnifies enlarged pores, dryness, oiliness, discolouration and breakouts for a better understanding of skin condition. There’s also the Musical Testers Bar at Selfridges, where the press of a button dispenses both product and sound. However, the brand’s highest-tech tool is the Smart Bar, powered by Microsoft Surface,
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which is basically an oversized touch screen. So far, only installed at Bloomingdale’s in NYC, it detects objects and gestures, enables shoppers to add products to a virtual browsing basket (and share it with Facebook friends,) and prints out a barcode to use at the express checkout counter. “Clinique was built on the promise of providing our consumers with the most personalised, engaging and informative experience at every interactive touch point,” adds Lynne Greene, Global Brand President of Clinique, Origins and Ojon. “By integrating digital technologies into the Clinique shopping experience, we offer the consumer a socially modern way to connect with the brand.”
Close-up analysis Skin Imaging Systems provide various high-tech machines to a number of beauty companies. Their Visia Skin Scanner, for example, provides eight types of skin analysis. Featuring different light modes and magnified 3D viewer, it assesses conditions such as rosacea, spider veins, hyperpigmentation, acne, sun damage and porphyrins (acne-related bacteria). Nick MiedzianowskiSinclair, company Founder and Owner, says: “We’ve been doing machines like this for about 10 years, dealing with both dermatologists and high street brands. These days, so many products claim to do wondrous things that the consumer likes to see proof. But if they can’t even see what’s wrong, how can you sell them something to put it right, let alone prove how well they’re working? Visia brings science to the counter.” esprit january 2014
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As a result, several skincare brands now feature scanners at their counters. Imedeen, for example, use Dermascan machines which employ ultrasound technology to reveal collagen and elastin levels below the skin surface to help sell the supplement’s rejuvenating benefits. “The Dermascan only takes a few minutes and shows women how well their skin is ageing, relative to their age,” explains Niki Nicolaou, an Imedeen Skin Consultant. “When customers use Imedeen and return for another scan, they’re always impressed with the improvement they can see not only on surface level.” Elemis SkinLabs use scanners at over 60 counters, including in Debenhams and John Lewis stores. Six different images evaluate UV-damage, evenness, porphyrins, spots, pores and wrinkles, for a detailed visual analysis of customers’ skins, both above and below the surface. Therapists can then prescribe uniquely targeted products. Vichy’s own diagnostic device, the Consult Tool, is designed to accurately identify skin type since many customers diagnose them incorrectly. Consultants perform sebum tests, hydration analysis, pigmentation evaluation, sun sensitivity and ageing assessments, especially around eyes, lips and jaw lines. Then, with the relevant information, Vichy’s best product recommendations are displayed. Last year, House of Fraser in London and Leeds became the first UK stores to feature MuradSpace retail environments complete with Dr Murad-style consultations. They also feature YouthCams, state-of-the-art skin analysis systems that measure five key issues: fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, inflammation and pores. Again, the object is to provide perfectly customised product recommendations. At the moment, however, SK-II’s skin analysis device, dubbed The Magic Ring, is exclusive to Harrods. It captures a digital close-up of the skin and analyses the image for five ‘dimensions’: texture refinement, firmness power, wrinkle resilience, spot control and radiance enhancement, before creating a bespoke product programme. It even esprit january 2014
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works over make-up, and can also simulate improvements to problem areas. “Personalised skincare is now beyond a trend,” notes Laura J. Goodman, Senior Scientist for SK-II Skincare. “Analysing the skin and determining the best products to address current skin needs can help achieve your best results.”
A colourful future However, high-tech sales tools aren’t confined to skincare. They can also perfectly match foundation shades to customers’ complexions. According to Mintel, the foundation market was worth around £366m in 2012 and accounted for 25% of all makeup sales, yet women still struggled to find exact matches. A Boots study found that the average British woman had five different formulations in her make-up bag, so the brand spent three years developing their No7 Foundation Match Made Service. Now available in over 660 stores, the hand-held gadget uses a series of light modes to analyse skin colour values and match them to No7 formulations. Amanda Walker, Head of No7, Boots UK, says: “We were overwhelmed by the customer response to this service even when we were trialing it. The combination of a new palette of skin true shades is based on three years’ worth of research with a device that takes the guesswork out of finding the perfect foundation.” It’s possible that colour may prove the next big area of technological development since, from January, Elizabeth Arden is also offering complimentary Foundation Shade Match Maker services at Debenhams, and then going nationwide from February. Nick Miedzianowski-Sinclair says, “I’m not aware of specific research into imaging for other types of makeup, but it’s probably going on somewhere. We already measure the length of eyelashes to demonstrate the effect of products like Revitalash and to compare mascaras, so why not?” Coming next: lipstick harmonisation hues? Eyebrow pencil matching? You read it here first.
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beautyrelated
a look at what’s new in the marketplace Origins power lifter Origins has created Plantscription™ a high-performance powerful lifting cream that uses a plant-powered formula
which works deep within the skin’s surface to help visibly lift and revolumise skin and restore youthful facial definition. Research proves that ageing leads to a slackening of facial contours and the appearance of sagging skin. Over time, skin naturally produces less collagen and elastin, essential in maintaining firmness and pliability. Used daily as a day and/or night cream, Plantscription™ Powerful lifting cream is formulated with ingredients that not only support natural collagen and elastin to create a firmer, more lifted look, its superior formula also works to boost moisture, pushing out folds and depressions to redefine youthful contours and soften lines where volume has been lost. Priced at £50.00, Plantscription™ Powerful lifting cream is available from 14th February at selected department stores and www.origins.co.uk
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Essential oils at Boots Tisserand Aromatherapy, a specialist in aromatherapy and essential oils, has launched an Everyday Essential Oils kit, which features Tisserand's top three essential oils including tea tree, lavender and eucalyptus. Each of the essential oils has its own distinct aroma: Tea Tree, distilled from the leaves of trees grown in Australia, is powerful and bracing with a fresh aroma; Lavender, distilled from flowers grown in France, is light, clean and refreshing with a floral aroma and Eucalyptus, distilled from leaves grown in Spain, is strong, fresh and stimulating with a piercing aroma. Also available is the Tisserand Lavender Essential Oil Roller Ball that combines lavender and chamomile essential oils in a base of jojoba, and can be used to help soothe and calm red, blotchy or itchy skin. The Everyday Essential Oils is priced at £13.49 and the Lavender Essential Oil Roller Ball at £5.49 and exclusively available in selected Boots and at www.boots.com until summer 2014. The products are available on the ‘3 for 2’ mix and match offer on selected products with the cheapest product free.
POREfessional pores Benefit’s POREfessional - the UK’s best selling primer - quickly minimises the appearance of pores and fine lines for smoother-than-smooth skin!
This lightweight balm can be used under or over makeup, complementing all skintones, helping makeup stay put. Continuing the fight for smoother looking skin, Benefit have launched POREfessional Agent Zero Shine, a new invisible shine-control powder that instantly minimises shine and helps smooth the look of pores. With a twist, tap and sweep, this all-in-one powder-brush dispenser can be used over makeup, instantly leaving skin looking fresh-faced. For maximum perfection, wear over Benefit’s POREfessional primer. Available from January priced at £23.50.
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beautyrelated
The Boss of music Classic, but contemporary and modern - the Hugo man challenges the norm and lives life on his own terms…now Hugo Boss have added
yet another dimension to his character and turned it upside down with the introduction of Hugo Music Limited Edition, a fresh fragrance with a fruity top note built around green apple. At its heart, aromatic notes give way to a base of woody accords including pine needles, sandalwood and cedarwood, reminiscent of a woodland stroll. Hugo Music Limited Edition is now available.
Mineral technology A new high-performance mineral makeup with an exclusive formula, designed to give the wearer a perfect colour match is now available in the UK. From the makers of Sheer Cover, the new range: Sheer Cover Studio™ has been developed using their exclusive Trueshade Technology®, which works with the skin to automatically adjust to match each skin tone without the need for blending. Using light-reflecting minerals, the formula contains optical filters that pick up the true skin tone and reflect it to ensure a perfect colour finish. Containing Mineral Foundation, Conceal & Brighten Trio, Lengthening Mascara and Lash Extending Fibers, Sun-Kissed Bronzing Minerals and Makeup Brushes, the Sheer Cover Cover Studio™ Introductory Kit is available in four shades, Light, Medium, Tan and Dark from: www.sheercover.co.uk priced at £29.95.
Magnetic MAC MAC Cosmetics have introduced Magnetic Nude, a limited edition collection where glimmering metallics and natural nudes redefine winter opulence. Skin appears radiant, eyes get a smoky metal effect, while lips are subtle, yet sexy - all combined for a look that’s naturally magnetic! MAC Nude Limited Edition collection is now available.
Marni’s multi-faceted symphony Launched as a special project for the Asian market and worldwide to coincide with the anniversary of the global launch of Marni Il Profumo, Marni Rose is the latest fragrance to be introduced by the Italian fashion label. The dynamic floral rose accord is at the forefront of Marni Rose, giving it a voluptuous intensity. Bulgarian rose oil adds
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nuance to a succulent rose absolute, while ethereal spices and esoteric woods embellish and accents the fragrance. Cardamom and mint nanah add saturation, raspberry a flash of pop, violet - a girlish touch, bitter almond and cassis vibrancy. A woody base of patchouli and cedar frames this multi-faceted symphony, while musk adds dimension and
long-lasting texture on the skin. To reflect the delicate change, both the packaging and bottle are variations of the original Marni fragrance, sharing the same graphic elements, but with the packaging taking on a pink hue, like the fragrance itself. The bottle top has also changed from red to black to reflect the black rose signature of the bouquet. Available exclusively at Harrods in 30ml (£48), 65ml (£68) and 120ml (£95).
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