July 2018 esprit magazine sampler

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The changing face of advertising

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COVERS: Under blue skies the air and the carefree spirit of Daisy shines on a new chapter of sisterhood with Daisy Love Marc Jacobs.

For more than a decade, Daisy Marc Jacobs has won hearts with a youthful spirit and spontaneous charm.

Daisy Love is a new radiant gourmand fragrance with a visually stunning advertising campaign starring Daisy muse, Kaia Gerber.

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contents 6 esprit News

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A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contributions from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise, and award-winning beauty Nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey

16 With ever increasing social media platforms, like Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, fragrance Houses have drastically changed the way they advertise to

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The changing face of advert

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Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Darren Scott Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Marc Rosen Nick Gilbert Persolaise Suzy Nightingale Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922

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being paid for content, is it a genuine opinion or a sponsored ad!...Read Suzy Nightigale’s fascinating report

20 Male Beauty Consultants fragrance has changed drastically over the years...but with the growing trend for male fragrances and grooming products, male Consultants are beginning to make a big impact

22 Meet the Winning Consultants esprit Copra Retail Consultant of the Year Awards 2018 - a recognition award for Consultants who have performed features, esprit interviews two deserving male Consultants

24 Beauty Related A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Dunhill Century, a fresh new signature fragrance for men; Spontaneity and a youthful spirit are captured in Daisy Love, the latest feminine fragrance from Marc Jacobs; Juliette Has A Gun launches Moscow Mule, a fresh and exhilarating composition inspired by the famous Moscow mule cocktail; Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire has a new addition with La Petite Robe Noire Black Perfecto, a fusion of rose and leather; Packaging specialists RPC M&H Plastics, re-design and create bespoke bottles for beauty company, Treaclemoon...plus many more products making their debut esprit do not provide PDF copies for editorial included in the magazine. PDF’s are only supplied to advertisers for colour approval. All rights reserved.

Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source.

All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.

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editor’s welcome Welcome!

At last it’s arrived....no, not the summer sales, but the very much overdue British summer weather! Although it’s being referred to as a ‘heat-wave’ for the UK, it is very much the norm in most European countries, but I’m welcoming it with open arms!

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Beautiful weather equals happier people, as well as boosting a number of UK industries. Why spend our money going abroad when we have exceptional beaches and resorts right here in Blighty I’ve managed to achieve a natural golden glow under UK sunshine...and I believe that sales of sun care products have soared!

Copra’s Retail Consultant of the Year 2018 Awards Winners - Paco Pena from Harrods and Dom de Vetta of Shay & Blue (page 22), plus a feature on how (page 16), and award-winning writer, Nick Gilbert, reports on the role of the Male Consultant vs. his female counterpart (page 20). This is in addition to our popular News section and our regular columns from Persolaise and Kathryn Danzey.

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Furthermore, I am delighted to announce that to continue celebrating esprit’s 30th Anniversary year, the magazine is going online with a digital version as from August and this is in addition to the printed edition.

The team and I are very excited about our new venture and we are looking forward to sharing it with you too. Esprit’s Maria is in the process of sending out all the information explaining how you can get involved with online advertising within esprit. However, if you wish to discuss sooner or have any questions, please feel free to call Maria, or myself, on 01737 373099.

Watch this space!

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Enjoy the read Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor

www.esprit-magazine.co.uk facebook.com/espritmagazine

instagram.com/espritmagazine_uk

twitter.com/espritmagazine

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espritnews

Beauty uniform Award As a beauty brand

work-wear, corporate clothing and PPE from around the world.

important to look smart and project a professional

over four decades of experience with top international brands, the the company would meet their proposed design brief for a single a casual

uniform, designed by London-based Jermyn Street Design, proved to be just that

recognised by customers.

“It was vital to create a design that allowed each employee to interpret how they wear the shirt and not to be in

YSL new beauty destination Lookfantastic, the luxury online beauty retailer, which boasts an extensive choice of brands, recently added YSL Beauty to the offering consisting of over 700 products including fragrance Lookfantastic is the ultimate destination for all things gorgeous premium haircare, beauty, skincare

The uniform won the Best Managed Contract (Boutique) at the annual 2018 Professional Clothing Awards, which

The shirt can be worn open, done up or tied at the waist, with Award winning trousers, a skirt or even bareMinerals with leggings and looks uniform, designed by great on everyone, whether Jermyn Street they are male or female, Design eighteen or in their late 40s.

recognises the international uniform supply chain, rewarding exceptional

Tasha Harris, Education Co-ordinator, bareMinerals, said: “They are right on-brand and everyone loves them because they are stylish, easy to wear and even easier to maintain (they are non-iron denim) and everyone can wear it their own way.”

and make up - supplying some of the leading luxury beauty brands making YSL Beauty and its iconic packaging, powerful formulas, and for the online retailer. Please visit: www.lookfantastic.com

Les Twins join forces with fragrance brand New Style Hip Hop dancers, Larry and Laurent Bourgeois, known as Les Twins, have been chosen by Diesel for men, Diesel Only The Brave Street campaign The siblings from Sarcelles, a Paris suburb, have risen from street kids to street icons, by creating their own style of dance. Their portfolio includes being the main characters in the Michael Jackson Immortal Tour by the Cirque du Soleil in 2011; they have toured numerous times with Beyoncé, including during her Coachella performance in 2018, as well competition in 2017.

Commenting on the collaboration, Les Twins says: “As New Style hip-hop dancers, we represent street culture. But dance, we go beyond our limits to become 4

the best. The street taught us to be good with others, but hard on ourselves.” described as a fresh take on what it means to be brave: to start from scratch, to dare, to dream, and to keep on going. To express yourself without limits. The street forges you to become who you want to be. To be a proud individual, while at the same time

being part of a larger tribe. To see life from all possible perspectives. will soon be available. Find out more by following the brand on Instagram @dieselfragrances

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JOOP!’s NEW

FATAL ATTRACTION JOOP! WOW! WOMAN, part of the Coty Luxury portfolio, is the captivating and alluring new feminine fragrance from JOOP! that follows in the footsteps of the successful launch of the male edition The seductive new fragrance is designed to harness and embrace a woman’s hypnotic charms.

“The WOW! woman possesses an authentic true femininity. Seductive, hypnotic, and easily recognisable, she leaves an unforgettable and alluring trail of captivating attraction,” say its makers, Coty.

Perfumer, Fabrice Pellegrin, has created a bold fragrance using white musk to create character and seduction. “Deep red ingredients”, Fabrice explains, “could only embody the Femme Fatale power of seduction”. He skilfully combined the hypnotic strength of rose infusion with sparkling and juicy facets of wild raspberry to compose the elixir,

the bottle is inscribed with gold lettering upon a brand synonymous with eccentric elegance, while introducing the new WOW! WOMAN. Acclaimed actress, model, musician, fashion designer and media personality, Milla Jovovich, has been chosen as the face of JOOP! WOW! WOMAN. The 42 year old American is described as exuding elegance and femininity. French Director, Olivier Dahan, captures the seductive sophistication of the WOW! woman. Shot in black

of the panther which embodies strength, fascination and lethal attraction. Her fragrance is her metamorphosis into revealing her true femme fatale that no man can resist!

red rose absolute and peony creates a captivating spicy and voluptuous facets. The fragrance reveals richness and warmth with cetalox, providing elegant amber notes, and patchouli, in a blend of woody, balsamic and leathery nuances. White musk sensually wraps the composition as it is enriched with intense and powdery facets.

The bottle complements its predecessor in shape, yet it draws a distinctive style with deep burgundy and an intriguing black metal cap. Furthermore,

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The JOOP! WOW! Eau de Toilette for Women, comprises: 40ml - rrp £35; 60ml - rrp £45; 100ml - rrp £59.

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espritnews

Copra announces Copra (Cosmetics & Perfumery Retailers Association) has partnered with Sharron Lowe, (pictured right), a global industry success coach and

hello@copra.org and are priced at £75 (+VAT) for Members and £85 (+VAT) for non-Members.

Please note Tickets are limited booking a place.

For further information on

A big leap for Primark beauty Cruelty Free International, one

Primark have been awarded

Sharron has created to About Sharron Lowe This Masterclass will be taking place at the Soho Hotel, London W1 on Thursday, 6th September, 2018. From 11am 11:30am tea and coffee will be served offering guests the chance to network.

From 11:30am - 12 midday, Vesa Kalho, Copra Chairman and Harrods Beauty Buyer, will be asking Sharron a selection of business questions. From 12 midday 1pm, Sharron will present her successful Mind Makeover Masterclass.

If you would like to be a part of this captivating event, tickets are available to book from Camilla Pascucci at

Her whole career has been working within the business sector specialising in areas such as the cosmetics industry, luxury brands, hotels and the retail industry. Sharron has worked with a host of global luxury brands such as Chanel, Estée Lauder, Clinique, Parfums Christian Dior, LVMH and Lancôme. In addition, her successful self-help book, The Mind Makeover: The Answers to Becoming

Trudi has been no stranger in the beauty industry, as prior to joining ELC, she worked at Calvin Klein Cosmetics for ten years, where she launched the

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commitment to its customers showing that products produced on their behalf are made with care for people, animals and for the environment.

With over 2,500 products and

the Best YOU Yet, was published in 2014. (www.sharronlowe.com)

Goodbye to a beauty-fuelled career Colleagues, press and industry friends recently attended a party to bid a fond farewell to Trudi Collister after retiring from the Estée Lauder Companies, where she spent 14 years working on Aramis & Designer Fragrances, Beauty Bank, Lab Series and Glamglow

Customers will see the Leaping Bunny logo on the entire Primark PS. range including make-up, skincare and haircare products, making them more aware that cosmetics at Primark are

of the largest ever undertaken by Cruelty Free International.

Launched in the 1990s, the Leaping guarantees that neither the product nor any ingredient it contains have

iconic CK one as her fragrance industry.

She went on to launch the equally iconic DKNY Be Delicious and many more additions to this brand. She has been responsible for some of the best launches the industry has seen and will always be remembered for her friendship, professionalism and kindness to everyone she came into contact with.

Have a very happy retirement, Trudi.

been tested on animals, either by the company or its suppliers.

Cruelty Free International is the leading organisation working to end animal experiments worldwide and is widely regarded as an authority on animal testing issues and called upon by governments, media, corporations expert opinion.

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a new brand of

360º

wellness

W=Hb² is “LA FORMULE SECRÈTE”. Wellness = (Health x beauty) Squared = W=Hb²

W=Hb² harmonises the ancient Chinese Yin Yang philosophy that relates to the balance of all things with the Western science of beauty. Created by Yilin Wang, (left), a leading Biochemist, very few were truly exploring what she calls the “eco system” that exists between body, mind and our energy connection with the physical world (Yin Yang) and how our bodies a physical manifestation of health and radiance with modern skincare science and natural wisdom.

The debut product is the double pump Power Duo Face Serum (30ml 2x15ml), a sophisticated, two-phase, vegan triple action skin care treatment that can be used in combination with any skincare.

Helping to promote balanced skin health, beauty and protection, this serum breaks new ground by combining a powerful anti-ageing action for skin beauty in phase I, with intense brightening and pure anti-pollution actions for skin health in phase II. All the actives used in the formulations are scrutinised and tested both individually and in synergy when combined in the exclusive complexes, to ensure maximum effectiveness and to respect and achieve the W=Hb² “la formula secrète”, our 360° wellness solution.

The serum should be applied twice a day, morning and evening on cleansed skin. Massage Phase I into the skin until fully absorbed, followed by Phase II. PHASE I BEAUTY through renewal, strength and vitality REVIVE + REFINE + REBALANCE Tri-Active Age Corrector Complex PhytoCellTec Alp Rose Stem Cell: Encourages skin stem cell vitality.

Biotechnological Tri-Peptide: Boosts collagen production.

Probiotic Bacteria: Skin barrier strengthening. + Botanical Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydration.

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PHASE II HEALTH through detox, control and repair PURIFY + PROTECT + RADIANCE Tri-Active Brightening & Anti-Pollution Complex Niacinamide: UV and blue light damage repair, skin brightening.

Moringa Seed Peptide: Raspberry Stem Cell Technology: Ageing environmental stress guard. + Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydration.

PHASE I BEAUTY + PHASE II HEALTH = WELLNESS

For more information, please visit www.whb2.com, @whb2formula or contact Yilin Wang, yilin@whb2.com celebrating

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Male Beauty Consultants: A Growing Trend?

by Nick Gilbert

In May, the Annual Copra Awards Lunch took place and every year, they honour the best of the best in beauty and fragrance – and also award Copra Retail Consultants of the Year. There were 21 winners in total in the Retail Consultant category, of which two were men – Paco Pena of Harrods Salon de Parfums, and Founder of Shay and Blue and fellow QVC guest presenter, Dom de Vetta. Men have always been recognised for their talents as makeup artists, and the growing number of men in fragrance sales means they are being recognised for their talents there, too.

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beauty and fragrance products has been a woman’s one – with men few and far between. Traditionally, those roles have been considered feminine. I remember frequently being the only man in the room on training days back when I worked at Boots. But with the growing trend for male grooming products, more men appearing in cosmetic campaigns, and the ubiquity of unisex (and niche) fragrances rising, we’re were once considered ‘female’ spaces. slightly cautious about taking my advice on fragrance, skincare and beauty products – granted, as a 16-year-old I looked more like 12 – but I soon built up a loyal customer base who would seek only my advice. A fellow retail trainer, Johnathan, had a similar experience. He tells me, “I've had a few occasions where a female customer didn't want me to do their make-up or asked for a female colleague to help them”, but it’s possible to win people over “as long as you keep it factual and actively listen, customers begin to trust you.”

Where there was once reticence for a female customer to trust a male Consultant on the shop aside. It could be the changing attitudes about gender roles in wider society, or the continued and growing the heart of it though, any customer just wants to be served by a person who is friendly, knowledgeable, attentive and listens well to their needs - no matter the gender,” says Johnathan. esprit july 2018 - celebrating

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lists are explained to sales Consultants as ingredients lists, leading to confusion over whether fragrances are entirely natural or not – which results in misinformed consumers. Specialist fragrance retailers who know about these issues have to painstakingly re-educate their customers from things they’ve been told by mistrained Consultants elsewhere. online, researching about cosmetics, skincare, and fragrance. I was amazed at the depth of information there seemed to be around all of these subjects – there was so much more to it all than ‘just’ cosmetics. There was also a lot of misinformation – received wisdom that is absolutely incorrect. Blogs can be useful sources but are often written by enthusiasts rather than professionals. Combining the intrigue and thirst for knowledge with the falsehoods led to me writing my own training notes and eventually moving into training – ultimately, I want to share passion and knowledge and work to dispel the myths surrounding perfumery and beauty, with as many people as possible.

Men are happy to work on beauty counters, selling and applying makeup, and advising on fragrance.

In the past two years, one of my clients has gone Johnathan has noticed a similar trend “in the ‘make up’ area of beauty, brands like MAC, Illamasqua absolutely. Counters always had one or two guys working on them, but now, you can call into a store and there's a 50/50 split.”

Over my years of delivering training, I’ve noticed that men will more frequently stay behind to ask extra questions or ask to smell more raw materials.

This is of course not to say that female sales Consultants aren’t interested in learning more – but with the growing number of men in the beauty retail environment, that behaviour and desire to learn is more noticeable in the male sales Consultants.

So, what do men know about fragrance and beauty?

Just as much as their female counterparts, when falls short, many Consultants take the initiative to

We, as an industry, need to create effective training programs that actually empower sales teams on the foundation – for cosmetics and skincare, that will be about how the skin works and how actives are used in formulations, whereas in fragrance it is about structure and history, families and concentrations. This should be married with brand specialist training, allowing the Consultants to know their brands products inside and

“At the heart of it though, any customer just wants to be served by a person who is friendly, knowledgeable, attentive and listens well to their needs - no matter the gender,” says Johnathan.

for knowledge in men – an almost geek-like need to understand how things work. Men frequently take themselves on further training courses, from online training to fragrance creation workshops, in order to enhance their understanding.

actually useful sales tools and consultation processes

Although, the desire to understand how things work can often lead to crossed wires, as many fragrance training programmes do not deliver accurate, necessary information in digestible ways. Notes

Combining all of these elements will help all of us create the best shopping experience for customers – whether that's for our male or female Consultants.

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beautyrelated

a look at what’s new in the marketplace Delighted lips Sisley has introduced Phyto-Lip Delight, the perfect makeup/skincare combination to embellish the lips with a shiny, reparative, subtle tinted veil.

The melt-in texture changes to oil upon contact with the lips for a delicately luminous effect.

This beautifying balm provides all lips - even the most sensitive - with softness and hydration.

It can also be applied on top of lipstick to add shine and comfort and reinforce colour. Lips are left plumper, nourished, repaired and protected.

Phyto-Lip Delight (6ml - £37.00 each) are available in three pastel shades Cool, Pretty and Sweet.

Triple defence Protect and prime skin all year round with new Daily Defence Shield SPF30 from Elemis. A super lightweight formula, it contains Elemis’ Enviro-Ageing Complex - a triple defence system that helps combat oxidative stress and environmental ageing. against: UVA and UVB rays; Environmental Pollution and High Energy Visible Light.

Skin is not only nourished with a refreshing boost of hydration, it also provides a perfect base for makeup.

New Daily Defence Shield SPF30 (40ml - £46.00) is now available.

Love’s carefree attitude With a youthful spirit and spontaneous charm, Daisy Marc Jacobs has captured hearts all over the world for more than a decade.

Celebrating the beauty of sisterhood and friendship, Daisy Love, the latest fragrance introduction, transports the Daisy woman to a sun-drenched beach where love and happiness shine with a new radiance.

Embrace the future British luxury brand Dunhill, introduce Century - a fresh new signature fragrance for men.

Composed by Perfumer Carlos Benaim, Century opens with refreshing top notes of bergamot, grapefruit and mandarin. At its heart, neroli, cardamom and olibanum, end on a warm base of sandalwood, musk and cypriol.

Housed in a concave and convex clear glass bottle, embracing the future with a new moment of clarity.

Dunhill London Century EdP, 75ml (£59.00) and 135ml, (£79.00) will be exclusive to Harrods from 1st July 2018, then available nationwide from 30th July 2018.

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Undeniably feminine, this youthful yet sophisticated gourmand composition opens with a bright pop of crystallized cloudberries that exude a multi-faceted sweetness. from the daisy tree mingle with the warmth of cashmere musks and driftwood for a delicate and memorable dry down.

Featuring Daisy muse, Kaia Gerber, the advertising campaign was shot

by British fashion photographer, Alasdair McLellan, beneath the golden sun on a Californian beach.

Daisy Love Marc Jacobs is offered in EdT 30ml, £42.00; 50ml, £59.00; 100ml, £84.00. Also available: Body Lotion 150ml, £28.00 and Shower Gel 150ml, £25.00.

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beautyrelated

Desert jewel compact Taking inspiration from the heart of the desert, Guerlain introduce Terracotta Sahara Jewel, a universal bronzing powder which illuminates and enhances skin with a halo of natural light to reveal a tanned

complexion. Blended or used of this Terracotta exclusive edition, diffuses soft colourful shades of gold and rose to warm and highlight skin with a sun-kissed glow.

Housed in a dazzling coralcoloured compact, it features a golden sun with blazing rays at its centre.

Guerlain Terracotta Sahara Jewel (No. 3 shade) is now available, RRP £66.00.

Custom packaging Independent beauty company, Treaclemoon, recently worked with RPC M&H Plastics to re-design and create a bespoke packaging solution while maintaining the brands image criteria.

Designed to maximise on shelf presence with the packs shape and colour, the brand opted for a bottle instead of the more commonly used tube for their hand cream, this allowed for the brand to distinguish themselves from other products, but still maintain ‘squeezeability’ due to the packaging being created from medium-density polyethylene (MDPE).

The custom designed bottles - in two size capacities - consist of a 75ml for hand cream and a 200ml for body lotion. The colour of the packaging was

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determined by the lead ingredient and story behind each product - this was then reproduced with M&H’s colour matching service.

With its soft corners and bold colours, the Treaclemoon range perfectly capturers the positive and fun outlook of its users.

For further information, please contact marketing@mhplastics.com or telephone: 01502 715518

Cocktail with a kick Juliette Has A Gun’s latest fragrance: Moscow Mule, evokes the vibrations and euphoria of the famous Moscow Mule cocktail. A fresh and exhilarating composition, it combines ginger and copper, two elements used in the Moscow Mule cocktail (which is traditionally served in copper mugs). Known for its antioxidant and aphrodisiac properties, ginger acts as a vibrancy enhancer, bringing a dash of excitement and sexiness to the fragrance.

Zesty lemon and lime adds punch to the top notes which forms the essence of the scent, while the inclusion of sparkling bergamot and tangy apple strengthens its freshness and vivacity. is served in a white metallic bottle topped with a copper coloured cap.

Juliette Has A Gun Moscow Mule is now available in 50ml EdP, £85.00 and 100ml EdP, £110.00.

Veil of protection bareMinerals has launched New Complexion Rescue Defense™ - a digital defence for skin that protects against the exposure and damaging effects of blue light from the screens of smartphones, computers and other devices.

It also offers protection from harmful UVA/UVB rays and pollution that can accelerate skin damage and the signs of ageing.

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Suitable for all skin types, bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Defense™ Radiant Tint Protective Moisturizer (£35.00) can be worn alone, under makeup, or over liquid makeup to boost protection.

Skin is left feeling soft, moisturised and with a radiant glow.

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