Esprit june 2018 sampler

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Heritage houses

successful revivals attracting new and future generations

Matilda Lutz & James Jagger

TOGETHER WE ARE UNSTOPPABLE

THE NEW FRAGRANCES FOR THE TWO OF US

Discover the TogetherStronger series on armanibeauty.co.uk

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COVERS: The NEW SEKSY Fragrance Collection The globally successful SEKSY brand has launched a new fragrance collection into Travel Retail, Duty Free and the UK date is 1st September 2018.

Embellished with Swarovski gems, the fragrances, which also roll out globally in key markets.

For more information on the launch contact Kate Morris at info@seksybeauty.com

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A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise. This month, he talks with Widian’s, Ali Aljaberi. We also have award-winning beauty Nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey offering her expert advice on how to restore hydration to achieve a summer glow, and we welcome back Marc Rosen, one of the world’s leading packaging designers who shares his views on the strong attention major UK

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inside

department stores assign to niche beauty brands

Heritage houses

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30/05/2018 13:06

Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Darren Scott Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Marc Rosen Nick Gilbert Persolaise Suzy Nightingale Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922

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contents 20 Fragrance Feature - Heritage Houses With an ever changing fragrance world, Heritage Houses have had to revive their appeal to attract new generations of fragrance buyers. Suzy Nightingale looks at some of the brands that have successfully taken new inspiration from their historical past

24 Interview - Perfumer Fanny Bal To celebrate the launch of Paul Smith Hello You!, we talk to Fanny Bal, the Perfumer responsible for creating Paul Smith’s latest masculine fragrance release

26 Beauty Related A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Mandarine, a new addition to the Les Infusions de Prada collection; Guerlain launch L’Homme Ideal L’Intense, the latest masculine scent to be introduced into the L’Homme Ideal family of fragrances; Inspired by a passionate summer romance, Creed launch Love in White for Summer, a sensual counterpart to Love in White; SEKSY, in collaboration with premium crystal brand Swarovski, introduce a trio of new feminine fragrances: SEKSY Entice, SEKSY Embrace and SEKSY Elegance; Jimmy Choo launch Jimmy Choo Man Blue, introduce Bubble Gum - a vibrant summer nail collection bursting with bright and vivacious tones...and Sisley revisits its best selling Ecological Compound with a Limited Edition packaging make-over

esprit do not provide PDF copies for editorial included in the magazine. PDF’s are only supplied to advertisers for colour approval. All rights reserved.

Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source.

All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.

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editor’s welcome Welcome Congratulations to all the winners who were presented with a well deserved Award at the Copra Lunch, recently held at The Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane. As many of you are aware, esprit has been designing and producing the Copra Ball Programme for a number of years, and this year, we were once again approached to do the honours for the Lunch Programme. So a huge thank you to all the

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well as provide products for the gift bag. Your kindness makes it the successful event it has become.

Furthermore, it took me by complete surprise when Copra’s Chairman, Vesa Kalho, announced my name to be presented with a Copra ‘Thank You’ Award for the continuous support and work esprit has carried out on behalf of Copra. It’s so rewarding to be recognised for a job that I still enjoy doing after 30 years, from when esprit made its debut in 1988. So, a big ‘thank you’ to Vesa and Copra for alongside my Fragrance Foundation Award, which I am very proud to have also received in 2012. For the full list of Copra Winners, turn to page 16.

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Meanwhile, more congratulations to the companies who were presented with a Winners Lalique Statuette at the Fragrance Foundation Awards, which recently took place at The Brewery. Turn to page 12 for the list of winners.

Finally, in this issue, we also have included a feature on heritage fragrance Houses, the budding Perfumer, Fanny Bal, responsible for creating the latest Paul Smith Persolaise and Marc Rosen.

Enjoy the read

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Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor

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The Copra Awards Luncheon 2018 The Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane was, once again, buzzing as over 400 beauty industry guests attended this year’s Copra Awards Lunch, which was one of the Association’s most successful yet!

This year’s Copra Award Winners

Each year Copra congratulates and

due to their skill, service, passion, motivation, customer engagement, sales accomplishment, and for being celebrating our exceptional colleagues and suppliers in the industry,”

Best New Premium Skincare Product/Range

Retail Consultant of the Year

Clarins Double Serum

Lynne Healing - Boots, Tunbridge Wells

Best New Premium Cosmetic Product/Range Dior Diorshow Pump’N’Volume Mascara

Best New Male Fragrance Emporio Armani Stronger With You

the continued support and generosity to raise over £3,000 for the industry

cause, please put the date in your diary

Best New Male Fragrance in Limited Distribution Tom Ford Noir Anthracite

Lena Felizcenar - Cult Beauty Catherine Cunningham Debenhams, Birmingham Kathy Toulson - Downtown, Grantham (Part of the Oldrids Group) Emma Lynham - Escentual

Kiehl’s Age Defender

Julie Godfrey - Fenwick, Colchester

Best New Female Fragrance

Laura Brown - Goulds, Dorchester

Best New Female Fragrance in Limited Distribution Tom Ford Sole Di Positano

Best New Bath & Body Product/Range

Debbie Oliver - Feelunique, Jersey

Paco Pena - Harrods Jade Waugh - Harvey Nichols, Manchester Amelia Handley - Hills Department Store

Molton Brown Russian Leather Bath & Shower Gel

Sophie Cadmore - House of Fraser, Plymouth

Best New Hand & Nail Product/Range

Rebecca Taylor - Jarrold

L’Occitane Karite Shea Butter Intensive Hand Balm

Best New hair care Product/Range Ouai Dry Shampoo Foam

Suppliers Service Award Clarins UK

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Elaine Mathews - Bradbeers, Romsey

Best New Mens Grooming Product/Range

Gabrielle Chanel

Copra Chairman and Director, Vesa Kalho, (Harrods) with Margaret Attwooll, General Manager, Parfums Christian Dior (UK & Ireland) - winner of the Gordon Whitehead Award

Ellen Marie Todd - Beales

Gordon Whitehead Award Margaret Attwooll, General Manager, Parfums Christian Dior (UK & Ireland)

Stanislava Cucikova - John Bell & Croyden Rebecca Lewis - Moores of Coleraine Assuntina Huseyin - Pearsons of (Part of the Morley Store Group) Hannah Black - P&O Ferries Don de Vetta - QVC Lynne Messervy - Voisins Department Store

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theinterview

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Originally on a path to enter the world of engineering, dabbling in the realms of chemistry introduced Fanny Bal to the joys of perfume.

Thankfully she’s never looked back

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for my second degree. I found this in Versailles, ISIPCA, it was a special school for perfume,

lthough her career is relatively new, Fanny has worked with Frédéric Malle and Paul Smith to create some inspired fragrances - with some unusual inspiration…

To celebrate the release of Paul Smith’s new men’s fragrance, Hello You!, we pulled up a seat to say hello to Fanny and discover a little more about this budding Perfumer.

When I saw that school I was like, ‘OK, I have to become a Perfumer’.

Where do you draw your inspiration for creating?

I’m a fan of patisserie, so bakery

and cooking. I really like this, but in emotion, the people I love, and the people I meet.

Can you make a fragrance from being inspired by baking?

Yeah! Because you know, sometimes the smell of the cake in the oven, it can be very

At what age did you realise that you wanted to enter the perfume industry?

I was always interested in perfumes and smells, but I really realised when I did my chemistry studies that I wanted to work in this area and wanted to be a Perfumer. Actually, in my family, nobody else works in perfumery.

So, it’s a kind of a secret job I found!

So, I did the chemistry study and was looking for another school

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Paul Smith Hello You! - created by Fanny Bal combines two of Paul Smith’s signature elements - the Artist Stripes and the pin-up model that was a hidden surprise in a Paul Smith wallet

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What’s the story behind Paul Smith Hello You!?

interesting. The ingredients

together…

That can be quite nostalgic as well…

What are some of your most memorable smell-related childhood experiences?

‘hello’...

How long is the process?

How many materials do you creating a fragrance?

Do you remember the fragrance she used to wear?

ingredients. In the end, you have

Saint Laurent. It’s an old

How many ingredients, approximately, would be in Hello You!?

How long do you spend working on a fragrance each day?

What’s your most memorable fragrance creation and why?

Do you think there’s been a change in the perfume industry?

ginger, you have this idea in

What do you do with the ones that haven’t quite worked?

Do you keep them for something else?

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Is there any particular ingredient that you dislike working with?

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Drawing inspiration from the coloured stripes of Paul Smith, Perfumer, Fanny Bal, wanted to create something iconic for Paul Smith Hello You!

How would you describe Hello You!?

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beautyrelated

a look at what’s new in the marketplace SEKSY fragrance trio Global brand SEKSY, has launched a new collection of feminine fragrances: SEKSY Entice, SEKSY Embrace and SEKSY Elegance.

Prism Parfums, the force behind SEKSY Beauty, collaborated with Time Products (UK) Ltd (creator of SEKSY wristwear by Sekonda), and

premium crystal brand Swarovski, to create the three signature scents.

SEKSY Entice: A sweet, fruity fragrance that opens with top notes of apricot, mandarin and

Infusion addition Each fragrance in the Les Infusions de Prada poetic interpretation of a single natural ingredient. A range of eight scents: Iris, Iris Cedre, Fleur d’Oranger, Amande, OEillet, Vetiver, Mimosa, and Rose, has now been joined by Mandarine, the latest addition to the collection.

Created by Perfumer Daniela Andrier, de Prada, Mandarine opens with bitter orange and green mandarin. At the heart of the fragrance, orange blossom meets neroli, contrasting with the sultry base notes of warm opoponax.

Housed in the vintage styled bottles adorned with the classic Prada heritage crest, a coloured surface has been layered onto the base, tinting the glass to echo the character of the fragrance.

Launching nationwide from 23rd July 2018, Mandarine is

blossom, jasmine and caramel, ends on an opulent base of sandalwood, vanilla and amber.

SEKSY Embrace: Dynamic and glamorous, this orange blossom, blackcurrant and pear. Its heart consists of iris, jasmine and patchouli, enveloped in a rich base of tonka bean, vanilla, musk and praline accord.

SEKSY Elegance: This sophisticated exotic oriental

Compound bottle with a limited edition design by artist Elzbieta Radziwill.

A poetic celebration of the colours of nature, Elizbieta has composed

and champaca leaves. At its heart, jasmine, rose, sweet pea, violet and sugared orchid is wrapped in a base of amaranth wood, blackberry musk and plum.

Available in three sizes: 30ml, £25.00; 50ml, £35.00; 100ml, £45.00, the fragrances are

mingles with pastel pink and

Swarovski crystal. As an added attraction, the 50ml and 100ml sizes have a Swarovski charm around the neck of the bottle, which can be removed and used as a charm on a bracelet or necklace.

For further information visit: Seksybeauty.com

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gold. The bottle and outer packaging are scattered with to emulate a delicate watercolour.

With an unchanged formula since its creation in 1980, this comprehensive revitalising and balancing cream brings together an exclusive cocktail of plant extracts, helping

lightweight and fresh texture leaves skin feeling supple, moisturised and toned.

Sisley’s Ecological Compound Limited Edition 2018 (125ml, £158) launches 15 June 2018.

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Summer romance Love in White for Summer - the sweet and sensual counterpart to the perennial Love in White - is the latest addition to the Creed fragrance family.

Inspired by a passionate summer romance, this enticing

The fragrance opens with top notes of Bulgarian rose, bergamot and magnolia. At its heart, Florentine iris, rice and Virginia cedar wood create a slightly powdery and woody aroma that ends on a base of Indian sandalwood, apple, ambergris and Love in White for Summer, 30ml, £110 and 75ml, £180 is now available.

Transcending codes Invigorated by life, the Jimmy Choo yet with a casual, rugged edge. With an effortless elegance and ease with

his environment, he embraces freedom and opportunity.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue, the latest dynamic new masculine fragrance from Jimmy Choo, is a play on contrasts, echoing the Jimmy Choo man.

Designed by Master Perfumer Nathalie Lorson, the fragrance opens with aromatic clary sage, balancing its fresh accords with bergamot and the spicy warmth of black pepper.

The intensity of leather is revealed in the heart, its masculinity enhanced with grey amber and vegetal woody facets of cypress.

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The creamy sensuality of sandalwood provides a distinctive and addictive base, supported by the magnetic accords of vanilla and sophisticated notes of vetiver.

Brazilian model, Marlon Teixeira, the face of the brand’s men’s fragrances, fronts the advertising campaign for Jimmy Choo Man Blue.

Available nationwide, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EdT is offered in 30ml, £32.00; 50ml, £46.00; 100ml, £66.00.

Intense masculinity Opening a new chapter in the L’Homme Ideal fragrance collection, Guerlain continues the story with the launch of L’Homme Ideal L’Intense.

Master Perfumer Thierry Wasser and Perfumer Delphine Jelk, take their quest for the embodiment of today’s multi-faceted man even further, by introducing a masculine fragrance that is more sexy, mysterious and dynamic. spices, it releases the full-bodied quality of almond for an overall intensity.

Smokey notes blend with leather and patchouli accords, while a vanilla infusion, (Guerlain’s speciality key ingredient), highlights this spicy woody oriental composition with a powerful elegance.

L’Homme Ideal L’Intense is housed in a deep black lacquered bottle, adopting the codes of its predecessors with its familiar broad shoulders and streamlined look.

L’Homme Ideal L’Intense is available in 50ml, £59.00 and 100ml, £79.00

Bubblicious shades In time for the summer months, natural nail care brand, Mavala, has launched its new vibrant and daring summer nail collection - Bubble Gum. Bursting with bright, vivacious tones, this six-piece collection features: Very Cherry, Blueberry, Lemon Drop, Orange Sherbet, Green Apple and Big Bubble.

The Mavala nail colour range is free from harmful ingredients such as parabens, formaldehydes, toluene, camphor, cellophane, animal ingredients and heavy metal.

Bubble Gum nail colours retail at £5.20 each.

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