Esprit july 2017 sampler

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Bottle Design:

perfume packaging innovations

espritcontents COVERS: For ten years, Daisy Marc Jacobs has won hearts around the world with an effortless charm and youthful elegance. This summer, Daisy re-captures the purity of the beginning with a new campaign featuring Kaia Gerber. The latest addition to the House, Daisy White Limited Edition features Daisy’s classic silhouette and signature fragrance in its purest form, updated with all white packaging

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contents 4 esprit News

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A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise. This month, he talks with Londoner, Nick Steward of Gallivant. We also have award-winning beauty nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey, offering advice on summer travel essentials, and the benefits of pre-holiday preparation

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24 A Whole Lotta Bottle

Bottle Design:

perfume packaging innovations

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Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Christianne C de Moncayo Graeme Wilson Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Penny Farmer Persolaise Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk

With a wealth of fragrances launching year on year, getting a product noticed by the consumer becomes more of a challenge...Suzy Nightingale looks at a selection of innovative perfume packagaing

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A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Hollister Wave 2 - the sequel to the original Wave for Him and Wave for Her fragrances; Marc Jacobs introduce Daisy White, a Limited Edition for summer, updated and presented with white packaging; Paco Rabanne launch Pure XS, the latest addition to the XS fragrance collection; Carolina Herrera introduce Gold Incense, the first fragrance to be launched into the Eastern Treasures collection; Salvatore Ferragamo launch UOMO Salvatore Ferragamo Casual Life, a masculine fragrance for the adventurous and confident man; Van Cleef & Arpels expand their Collection Extraordinare with the introduction of Réve de Cashmere, and skincare experts, Australian Bodycare has introduced its Australian Bodycare Pharmacy range, re-launched with a new design

Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, St Martin’s Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922

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editor’s welcome Welcome

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I’d like to start off my Eds letter by saying a big THANK YOU to those who generously sponsored Maria on her challenge of walking the Three Welsh Peaks, which she completed in less than nine hours. I’m pleased to report that Maria did turn up for work on the Monday morning, but I noticed she had trouble sitting down for too long!!

Meanwhile, if you would still like to sponsor Maria, it’s not too late! The link is www.justgiving.com/fundraising/ManicReachers and all the funds raised will go to Saint David’s Hospice. Thank you.

Meanwhile, in this month’s issue, we have featured the Copra Lunch Beauty Awards, where the lovely Suzie Abel announces her retirement from Jarrolds after serving 28 years in beauty. A large pair of shoes to fill!

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Our article for July is Fragrance Bottle/Packaging Design, where we have featured a selection of the latest innovative launches taking design to another level.

I am also happy to report that our regular Columnist, Persolaise, has conducted an informative interview with the talented Nick Steward of Gallivant. Get the low-down by turning to page 12.

Finally, if you haven’t had the opportunity to visit the exhibition ‘Perfume: A sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent’ at Somerset House…I highly recommend it. Coty is one of the Principal Partners and the exhibition is an exploration of today’s scent through the work of 10 perfume pioneers.

Enjoy the read!

26 Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor

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Straight from the heart...Aura Mugler To celebrate the launch of the captivating new fragrance, Aura Mugler, Clarins Fragrance Group UK PR team hosted a spectacular event at London venue, One Marylebone Over 70 guests attended including top eauty journalists, influencers and retailers, where they experienced the journey of Mugler’s new scent. The evening

Daphné Bugey, Perfume Creator, Aura Mugler

Oriental green family due to its accords of Tiger liana, rhubarb leaf, orange blossom Bourbon vanilla and wolfwood.

The fragrance is presented in sizes of 30ml (£49.00); 50ml (£70.00); and 90ml (£88.50) and is available nationwide. #ListenToYourInstinct Tanya Alvarez, Clarins UK with Eddie Bulliqi, Basenotes

Debbie Lewis, Managing Director, Clarins UK

began with a warm welcome from Debbie Lewis, Clarins UK Managing Director, who introduced guests to Sandrine Groslier, Clarins Fragrance Group

Daphne Bugey, revealed the elements of Aura Mugler.

From here, Guests made their way upstairs where they sampled the scent under the delightful fragrance discovery tree as they siped on ‘glow in the dark’ cocktails, inspired by the notes of Aura.

One of the highlights during the evening

Esprit Magazine’s Lorraine Wilson-Morris and Maria Tatchley with Tania Alvarez, Clarins UK

Engraver personalising guests Aura Mugler bottles

Sandrine Groslier, President, Clarins Fragrance Group

President, who presented the concept and vision behind the fragrance launch.

Following this, talented Perfumer,

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was offering guests the opportunity of having their Aura fragrance bottle personally engraved.

To complete the event, each guest had an Aura reading before they continued to party the evening away with music supplied by famous Kiss FM DJ’s, Pandora Christie (Above right): Glow in and Justin Wilkes. the dark Aura cocktails.

(Right): Kiss FM DJ, Aura Mugler belongs Justin Wilkes to the Botancial,

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THE NEW FRAGRANCE

espritnews

Copra recognises Beauty excellence The best in beauty were acknowledged at this year’s Copra Lunch held at the prestigious Dorchester Hotel on London’s Park Lane Over 400 guests attended one of the beauty calendar’s successful Luncheons, which opens with a Champagne Reception followed by a splendid lunch in the spring-themed Ballroom.

Once seated, Vesa Kalho, Copra Chairman, Harrods, gave a warm welcome to guests and thanked all the numerous companies who kindly

David Elliott, Copra Director, Voisins; Suzie Abel, Copra Director, Jarrolds; Sarajane Robertson, Look Good Feel Better; and Vesa Kalho Copra Chairman, Harrods

supported the Lunch, as well as those who generously contributed products for the guests gift bags.

Each year, Copra congratulates and pays tribute to some of the best of the best in beauty and fragrance with their highly acclaimed Copra Awards.

Kenneth Green, Chairman of Kenneth

Green Associates, scooped up the Supplier Service Award.

Furthermore, this year’s recipient of The Gordon Whitehead Award was presented to a delighted Linda Key Jackson, CEO of The Fragrance Foundation UK, who said: “For me, it’s more about the people that make up

Rebecca Oliver, L’Oréal Luxe, with Aglae de Beauregard, YSL Beauty, and Claire Williams, L’Oreal Luxe

man” will be joining her daughter and her husband in beautiful Hampshire.

Finally, Copra is delighted to announce that almost £4,000 was raised for its supporting charity, Look Good Feel Better.

Copra would like to thank all its sponsors for their generosity in helping to make this event an informative and successful one.

Copra Beauty Award Winners Beales’ Shobha Doll; Hayley Peyman; and Liliya Cowper

our industry and the kindness and support that I have been shown through my career.”

Following this, Copra’s Director, Suzie Abel from Jarrolds, took to the stage to say a sad farewell to an industry she has worked in for 28 years, where she started as an YSL Consultant in Jarrolds!

“I have visited some amazing places and met some wonderful and inspirational people, many of whom are here today,” smiled Suzie.

Suzie’s list of thanks included Copra, who has been a major influence on her career, Camilla Pascucci, Philip Steer, Debbie Trumper, Vesa Kalho, plus Roja Dove, “who has taught and developed many of our Fragrance Consultants,” said Suzie.

Suzie has made the decision to retire in September where she and the “old

Best New Premium Skincare Product or Range La Mer Genaissance de La Mer The Serum Essence Best New Premium Cosmetic Product or Range Benefit Brow Makeup Collection Best New Male Fragrance Giorgio Armani Code Profumo Best New Male Fragrance in Limited Distribution Prada L’Homme Best New Female Fragrance Chanel N°5 L’EAU Best New Female Fragrance in Limited Distribution Creed Aventus For Her Best New Bath & Body Product or Range Molton Brown Rosa Absolute Collection Best New Nailcare Product or Range Chanel Le Gel Coat Best New Haircare Product or Range Philip Kingsley PK Prep Plumping Cream Best New Men’s Grooming Product or Range Molton Brown Re-Charge Black Pepper Sport Collection The Gordon Whitehead Award Winner Linda Key Jackson - Chief Executive Officer, The Fragrance Foundation UK The Supplier Service Award Kenneth Green Associates

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esprit july 2017

The New Fragrance #pradaxprada

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by Suzy Nightingale

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he Graphic Artist, M.C. Escher, devised mathematically inspired woodcuts and lithographs portraying dizzying worlds with staircases, doorways, and paths, seemingly stretching to infinity; setting the head of the viewer into a tailspin as they desperately attempt to make sense of it all. Were Escher alive today, he could do worse than pick the perfume industry as a subject, with infinite shelves holding infinite bottles - the poor, overwhelmed consumer plummeting into a maze of confusion as they attempt to locate where on earth to begin. Let’s look at the figures, with Fragrance Expert and Writer, Michael Edwards, as an example, who began his Fragrances of the World book categorising perfumes as an aid to retailers - in 1983, and then listing just 323 fragrances in total. Now the website database categorises 21,000 fragrances - with 2,000 new launches added in 2015, a number

front of the box, providing a 3D experience to even the most casual passer by, with definite Magpieappeal for the ‘selfie’ generation: appearing to be a moving photographic filter that follows you around the room as you manipulate the box. Under the creative direction of Julia Haart, the box and bottle work in harmony with the scent bringing to life the La Perla vision

“…to enhance powerful yet feminine beauty,” first imagined by Founder, Ada Masotti. The bottle follows

the packaging of the limited edition, the consumer was invited to download a free app that allowed them to explore the world of the fragrance. By scanning the bottle, the app showed the flacon appearing to ‘explode’ from the heart of a black rock, leaving a trail of dust - an impressive mise-enscène that could be viewed from all angles and captured on their smartphone to upload and share with friends. Again, the bottle had to harmonise the scent and storyline: “Engineered as much as designed, the bottle for Prada Luna Rossa Carbon develops the visual themes of the Prada Luna Rossa line, but using radically different materials. It has the visual depth of slate, coal or jet, but with complex textures.

How perfume packaging in connections between people

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that continues to grow exponentially year on year. Breadth of choice is no bad thing, but with that much choice, perfume Houses and retailers must push harder than ever to get noticed. So who’s doing what, exactly, to get that bottle in the hand of the consumer…?

this shiny, smooth and curvaceous theme - a rose gold disc seemingly suspended within the juice, but on closer inspection another “this continues to illustrate the spherical storytelling behind this precious scent”.

La Mia Perla £39 for 30ml EdP

Eye-catching design in both box and bottle was the key strategy for La Perla’s latest launch, La Mia Perla - ‘My Pearl’ - offering a fairgroundmirror-esque encounter by using what La Perla reveal is ‘Fresnel technology’. New to the beauty industry, it’s a highly reflective spherical surface embedded in the

For the launch of the new masculine fragrance Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Prada Parfums introduced “…an immersive augmented reality experience that highlights the powerful essence of high tech nature - a challenge between the raw and the refined that lies at the heart of the fragrance.” Prompted by

The base of the bottle is presented in the richest of blacks; light absorbing, with a soft organic-velvet texture. The glass is both black and transparent, something that appears pure, as if mined, but also refined and perfected by advanced technology.”

Prada Luna Rosa Carbon £48.40 for 50ml EdT Who predicted that 2017 would be the year in which we painted on perfume rather than spritzing?

Innovative delivery systems offer sensuously tactile additions to the fragrance wardrobe for luxurious on-the-go applications aimed at esprit july 2017

otta Bottle: travellers and those who like to topup or layer their perfume throughout the day. Byredo proffer a powdered trio of perfumes, “Inspired by the refinement of this extremely codified

form of theatre and the traditional brushes, used by Japanese actors, to apply their make-up, Founder, Ben Gorham, has created a new art of perfuming.” Describing their inspiration further, Byredo explain this new way of applying fragrance, makes “what is usually invisible… a tactile sensation”. Housed in

experience.

“It was a crazy idea, but something caught my imagination and so the journey began,” she explains, documenting the laborious differing formulations and trials, “…until finally everything came together; from the newly formulated gel cologne, which holds the fragrance and dries in seconds, to the travel size brush that can go anywhere and everywhere with you.” Initially the scents available in the gel-paint technology will be their Pomelo, Green Orange and Coriander, as well as Red Truffle 21, White Rose and Lemon Leaves.

JO Loves Paintbrush £40

novations create and products a retractable brush, a micro-fine powder diffuses a choice of three best-selling scents: Bal d'Afrique, Blanche and Gypsy Water.

Byredo Kabuki Brush £42 Perpetuating the perfumed paintbrush theme, but this time with the scent in gel form, Jo Loves will be launching their Fragrance Paintbrush in September. Said to be a ‘first-of-its-kind innovation’, taking three years to develop the product, Jo Malone says she was inspired to change how consumers applied scent, and began visualising using a paintbrush as part of the brand’s ‘fragrance tapas’ (layering) esprit july 2017

Available at the new (to the UK) Jovoy retail store in London’s Conduit Street, a further brushing innovation for perfume resembles the iconic YSL Touché Éclat clickand-conceal pen, delivering instead an intense fragrance serum to be sensuously applied to pulse points, and offering an entry-level luxury purchase within the store.

“Available in all ten shades, Du Bois fragrances, our serum pens, are ‘luxury on the go’. Slim, elegant and lightweight, the serum pen delivers just the right amount of fragrance where you want it, when you want it.” Concentrated, moisturising and long-lasting, the serum pens

are described as “ideal for the modern traveller, enabling the swift application of a fragrance burst, or the maintenance of a core fragrance throughout the day and night.”

Fragrance Du Bois Serum Pen £39 for 3ml Parfum From trompe l'oeil optical illusions to fully immersive experiences, the world of perfume packaging continues apace to grab the attention of the passer-by. No longer is it enough for a colourful box and pretty flacon to capture the interest of the consumer. To get that bottle in their hand is everything - as a Harvard Business Review article by Lawrence Williams and Joshua Ackerman, entitled Please Touch the Merchandise, highlights: “Consumers use their hands to connect with brands.”

Expanding their proclamation, the authors suggest that “We tend to think about consumers using touch primarily because they have to - in order to examine packages and to fill shopping carts. However, touch can also create symbolic connections between people and products, and between buyers and sellers. Physically holding products can create a sense of psychological ownership, driving must-have purchase decisions.” And among a myriad of fragrance offers on those infinite perfume shelves, whether in a traditional department store, specialist boutique or online setting, innovative design, technological advances in packaging and creative delivery methods are combining to interest, impress, and ultimately, inspire that consumer to pick up and try.

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beautyrelated

a look at what’s new in the marketplace The second wave More fun, more vibrant, Hollister introduce Wave 2, the sequel to the popular Hollister Wave. These two new male and female fragrances capture the warm energy of endless summers on the beach.

For the free-spirited woman as dazzling as the Californian skies, Wave 2 for Her, opens with peach, coconut water and sparkling mandarin. The floral heart of exotic tiare flower, water lily and pink freesia float in a dreamy addictive trail of white sand, driftwood and vanilla orchid.

Hollister Wave 2 for Her is offered as an Eau de Parfum 30ml, £22.00; 50ml, £32.00 and 100ml, £39.00.

Confident, optimistic and charismatic, Wave 2 for Him is for the man who treats everyday as a new adventure. A fresh woody fougere, this bold masculine fragrance opens with mandarin and peppercorn wrapped in a fresh Californian air accord. This unfolds into a heart of lavender, sage and geranium, warmed by a base of sensual woods and musk.

Hollister Wave 2 for Him is offered as an Eau de Toilette 30ml, £22.00; 50ml, £32.00 and 100ml, £39.00.

Now available nationwide.

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Charmingly simple Inspired by the daisy flower, not precious, not exotic but evoking a spirit of friendliness in women, Daisy Marc Jacobs captures the effortless charm and youthful elegance of the Daisy girl, playful, young at heart while radiating a positive energy.

Fresh and radiant top notes of succulent wild berries and soft white violets, infuse with a heart of jasmine, enhancing the vibrancy of the florals. A dreamy base of sandalwood imparts an aura of warmth and sensuality, creating a delicate and romantic contrast.

Featuring the classic Daisy silhouette and signature fragrance in its purest form, this limited edition for summer has been updated with white packaging.

The glass bottle has a shiny white finish with a gold metallic logo to complement the white and gold cap.

Daisy Marc Jacobs Limited Edition is available nationwide 19th July 2017 and is offered in a 100ml - £78.00.

The ultimate of excess Pure XS is the latest addition to the Paco Rabanne XS collection of fragrances. As the name suggests, this sexy masculine scent is the ultimate of excess…more captivating, more opulent and more decadent.

Using the combined talents of Perfumers Anne Flipo and Caroline Dumur, they set about conveying the sensation of skin shivering with desire and burning with pleasure in

an olfactory expression, creating a composition with two accords that contrast and harmonise with each other.

A vibrant, magnetic and fresh oriental combination of spice and woody accords, it opens with an explosive burst of ginger. Its smouldering sensuality, enhanced with thyme and cinnamon, is powered forward with a surge of pulsing warmth - a carnal mixture of vanilla, brown sugar and myrrh.

Launching exclusively in Boots from 5th July 2017, then nationwide rom 26th July 2017, Pure XS is offered as an EdT 50ml, £47.00; EdT 100ml, £64.50; Shower Gel 150ml, £23.00 and Deodorant Spray 150ml, £24.50.

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beautyrelated

New look skincare Skincare experts, Australian Bodycare, has introduced its Australian Bodycare Pharmacy range, re-launched with a new design that gives the products a visual boost to reflect the high-quality content.

Known for its antiseptic and cleansing properties, pure tea tree oil is at the heart of all Australian Bodycare’s products. This key ingredient, combined with other actives, can be used to soothe irritated, damaged and dry skin, insect stings and other minor skin irritations.

Benefitting from being gentle, products are formulated and developed so that each item uses the correct amount of tea tree oil required for the healing effect. Skin is left feeling fresh, clean and free from blemish and odour-causing bacteria.

Australian Bodycare offers a range of skin washes, lotions, shampoo and conditioner as well as deodorant and face care products.

Extraordinaire addition Expanding their Collection Extraordinaire range of luxurious fragrances, Van Cleef & Arpels introduce Rêve de Cashmere.

Unlike previous fragrances in the Collection Extraordinaire that concentrated on major perfumery notes or ingredients, Master Perfumer, Fabrice Pellegrin, pays homage to the comforting feel of a downy fabric as it touches bare skin, taking the senses on a new journey and experience.

Tender, soft and warm, this full fragrance opens with bergamot essence and jasmine petals.

The zesty, delicate top notes are echoed by the intensity of ingredients used in the base: leather, black vanilla and patchouli.

This tension between

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citrus and balmy accords is interspersed by smooth, cashmerelike white musks, heliotrope and sandalwood essence with creamy, milky accents.

Launching exclusively in Harrods from 9th July 2017, Rêve de Cashmere is available nationwide in selected department stores from 7th August 2017.

Italian attitude Salvatore Ferragamo introduces UOMO Salvatore Ferragamo Casual Life, the new fragrance for the dynamic man who takes on life with adventure, confidence and enthusiasm.

Charismatic and vibrant, the scents crisp green notes play with powerful woody and invigorating accords.

Opening with a hit of freshness, violet leaves mingle with spicy notes of cardamom, highlighted with zesty lemon.

Coffee, a traditional and authentic Italian ingredient, sits at the heart, while the warmth of ambrox and the brightness of geranium create a luminous and bitter addictiveness.

Ending on a base of Cashmere wood and elegant white cedarwood, the sensual signature is sealed with a touch of white musk.

UOMO Salvatore Ferragamo Casual Life is now available nationwide and is offered as a 30ml EdT, £38.00; 50ml EdT, £49.00 and 100ml EdT, £69.00.

Arabian celebration Herrera Confidential, an exclusive range of luxury scents from Carolina Herrera, introduce Gold Incense, the first fragrance to be launched into the new Eastern Treasures collection.

Celebrating Arabian alchemy by fusing heritage with majestic beauty, this powerful and elegant fragrance evokes memories from another time and place, offering a modern reinterpretation of frankincense as an ancient perfumery ingredient, in a sophisticated, opulent and genderless way.

Available exclusively in Harrods from August 2017, Gold Incense is offered as a 100ml EdP, £215.00.

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