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christmas sales review

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COVERS: Karl Lagerfeld will begin a new page in fragrance history, infusing it with the subtle-yet-modern style that defines his fashion, design, photography, imagery, and digital innovation. Building on these foundations, Karl is launching a pair of fragrances, one for women and one for men that serve to reaffirm his commitment to making style accessible to everyone.

Launching exclusively at Harrods, 9th March 2014

Contents 6 esprit News A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and two-time Jasmine Award winner, Persolaise - this month he focuses on the Osmothèque the largest and most important scent archive in the world

20 Sensitive Skin feature Our skin is designed to be sensitive, not only for helping to regulate body temperature control and to protect us from environmental pollution, but also other internal factors including stress and hormone imbalance…esprit asks the experts what makes skin more sensitive than others?

Owner & Founder/ Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor / Production Terry Wilson Regular Contributors Graeme Wilson Imogen Matthews Jocelyn Bailey Penny Farmer Persolaise Tricia Welch

esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk

22 Christmas Review 2013 Christmas is one of the busiest times for fragrance sales...and with the increasing improvements in the economy, was it a good Christmas for the suppliers and retailers!…find out in Imogen Matthews Christmas 2013 Review

30 Beauty Related Some of the products making their way into the marketplace this month include new fragrances from Elie Saab with L’Eau Couture; Exotic, a limited edition from Jimmy Choo and Acqua di Parma, who launch their first special edition of Gelsomino Nobile

Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), post paid.

Back copies: £12 per issue Printers Colouration 13 Falcon Court, St Martins Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.co.uk W: www.colouration.co.uk Esprit ISSN 1364-9922

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All rights reserved. Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source. All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.

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editor’s welcome Welcome!

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Forget about the daffs and crocuses making an early appearance for spring...but what about the country basking in late spring temperatures...!

How spoilt are we Brits!!

As a nation, we’ve had the full package...obviously some more than others!

Torrential rain, havoc-wreaking storms, horrific floods, snow blizzards and hail stones large enough to put a dent in any car roof! So, any non-UK residents please forgive us if you notice how our spirit is lifted when we ‘see the light’!

You are not experiencing ‘close encounters of the umpteenth time’, but mere mortals being thankful for a little sunshine.

Meanwhile, I had a discussion with the lovely Sarahjane Robertson (Look Good Feel Better) who is constantly looking for new ideas and initiatives to raise money for the beauty industry’s very own and all important charity. So, extending on our chat, I wanted to mention ‘Feel Better Week’ (Monday 2nd June to Sunday 8th June), which is LFGB’s annual awareness week where they bring together all their supporters to raise funds for LGFB. Anyone can participate and there is still enough time to organise a day’s initiative or even ‘one’ on each day. No fund raising event is too small! Even just £5 funds a LGFB Confidence Kit for self-help at home.

This is a great opportunity to support LGFB and have some fun at the same time.

As always in the March edition, we have published the 2013 Christmas Review over eight pages, which contain very mixed views on sales over the festive period, from the contributing companies. Also, in this issue we have a feature on the body’s largest organ...skin. This includes a number of skincare products specifically developed for sensitive skin.

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Finally, I look forward to seeing so many familiar and new faces at this year’s CORPA Lunch, taking place on Wednesday 21st May at The Dorchester Hotel on London’s Park Lane. Furthermore, I am happy to announce that esprit will be producing the COPRA Lunch Brochure with proceeds going to Look Good Feel Better. I look forward to your support.

Enjoy the read Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor

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espritnews

Debenhams celebrate with more beauty Debenhams unveiled its biggest and best ever Beauty Hall, after undergoing an extensive refurbishment The 20,000 square foot area boasts a wealth of brands, from the well-known, to the niche and exclusive, all housed in one

Elemis and Benefit are available for a more indulgent and pampering treat.

Sara Stern, Debenhams Beauty Director, says: “We are made-up about our new services offer which caters to all needs whether customers are after an indulgent facial, a lunch-time manicure or a quick make-over before a night on the town!

Whether they’re getting their nails done or buying their favourite perfume, shoppers can expect the latest expert advice, access to the world’s best brands, fantastic choice and an unrivalled service offer.”

Debenhams have also given their Beauty Club Card a makeover with a new look…customers can collect points and

One of London’s best premier beauty spaces - Debenhams refurbished Beauty Hall

of London’s best beauty spaces.

A host of new brands, including Tom Ford, Marni, Yohji Yamamoto, and Annick Goutal will join the already impressive fragrance line-up in the new area dedicated to scent.

The Beauty Hall also offers more beauty treatments, in addition to the Benito Brow Bar and Nails Inc Nail Bar, luxury treatment rooms including Clarins,

earn rewards on all beauty purchases, plus a new perk allowing customers to redeem their rewards online, broadening their choice to over 200 beauty brands.

Armani Code signs new face American Actor, Chris Pine, has been signed up as the new face of Armani Code, one of the world’s best-selling men’s fragrances, with the new advertising campaign being released this spring “Chris perfectly embodies the brand’s spirit with his strong charisma and natural elegance. Besides revealing great talent, high versatility and the right amount of irony on set, his magnetic charm makes him the ideal match for this fragrance”, said Giorgio Armani.

The 33-year-old follows in the footsteps of stars such as Rafael Nadal and Cristiano Ronaldo, who have fronted campaigns for the brand’s fragrances. Meanwhile, it will be the first time that Armani use a non-Italian model to front Armani Code.

Chris recently starred in the action-packed film Jack Ryan: Shadow Recruit, directed by Kenneth Branagh. He recently reprised his role as Captain Kirk in the ‘Star Trek’ Actor, Chris Pine - the new face of Armaini Code

Travel with Glamglow Glamglow, the multi award winning mud treatment brand, has launched into three key World Duty Free airport shops: London Heathrow Terminal 1, Manchester and Birmingham Glamglow is currently available in the world’s most exclusive stores, hotels, salons and retailers including Space NK, Selfridges, Fortnum and Mason and Urban Retreat in the UK Perfect for fatigued, jet-lagged skin,

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the famous Youthmud, known as the ‘10 minute facial in a jar’, revives and enlivens dull complexions. In just a short amount of time, it has achieved worldwide acclaim, notching up several prestigious beauty awards, with the latest being voted ‘Best Face Mask’ in the Elle International Beauty Awards.

Originally created for behind-thescenes use in Hollywood’s entertainment industry, for immediate camera-ready, glowing skin, all Glamglow mud treatments contain the highest quality ingredients to give exceptional results, for incredible instant and long-lasting skin gratification.

franchise, co-starred in Tony Scott’s ‘Unstoppable’ with Denzel Washington and battled Tom Hardy for the heart of Reese Witherspoon in ‘This Means War’. The Los Angeles native will co-star with Meryl Streep and Johnny Depp later this year in Rob Marshall’s musical ‘Into the Woods’ and in the sequel to ‘Horrible Bosses’ with Jennifer Aniston, Jamie Foxx and Kevin Spacey. Pine is currently shooting ‘Z for Zachariah’ opposite Academy Award nominee Chiwetel Ejiofor.

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christmasreview Discounting was the big story on the high street last Christmas, kicking in on Black Friday {the UK has finally caught up with the US} and gathering pace throughout December. Imogen Matthews reports

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“Panicky retailers talked themselves into a corner and ended up depriving themselves of margin,” maintains Bryan Roberts, Director of Retail Insights, Kantar Retail. Will it continue?

Louise Howarth, Senior Retail Analyst, Planet Retail, observes: “If retailers change their strategy on discounting, it has to be on a national scale.” For many retailers, their best bet was online. Bryan adds: “The ability to weave together stores and online in a variety of permutations is becoming a great asset and is set to become more important as mobile commerce really takes off in 2014.”

According to NPD Group, the premium beauty market ended the year on £2,217m, up 5.6% on 2012. Like last year, it was makeup that was the star performer, racing ahead by 10% boosted by the strong trend towards makeup palettes.

Below are what key suppliers and retailers experienced during the Christmas 2013 season.

The Suppliers Stéphane Euzen General Manager, UK & Eire, Acqua Di Parma “Acqua di Parma is a strong Christmas brand. Our sales started to pick up early November and saw a very strong acceleration in December, posting another record year. December was +20% and overall we finished on +17% in the calendar year. Colonia was, as ever, our best seller, but we have also seen a strong performance from Blu Mediterraneo.

For the first time, the line had a limited quantity of Christmas hat boxes and the sell-through was impressive. Colonia Oud was also a strong seller following the GQ

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Award and strong editorial coverage. The trade support was instrumental in delivering our positive sales.

“Being in very limited distribution, Acqua di Parma doesn’t suffer much from discounting activity. It is disappointing, however, that in the industry, there is such a strong focus on pricing, especially at Christmas time. It is damaging for the industry and we should encourage the trade to look at more qualitative options to be competitive, such as service, availability and wrapping, which are also essential to customers.”

David Rios Head of Sales and Export, Art & Fragrance “It was the first Christmas for Bentley and it was a very successful period in terms of sales and visibility of the brand. Our best selling item is Bentley for Men Intense at the moment. For Bentley Fragrances, Harrods is our strongest partner next to House of Fraser. We had a Bentley cube site in Harrods to support our crystal edition and the Bentley For Men line.”

Jill Hill Managing Director, Aspects Beauty Company “We had a fabulous year.

Overall retail ended up +23%, although the last quarter was tough, but not in department stores.

Chains struggled mainly to begin with, but it all came right in the end. Versace Eros was a star, but so too was Versace Man Eau Fraiche. Bright Crystal and

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christmasreview Crystal Noir both did well. Ferragamo Signorina original was strong, as was Trussardi original. In our niche division, Jul et Mad, Jovoy and Jardins D’Écrivains stood out.

Coffrets were much lower than last year with 18% of our retail sales made on sets in the year, compared to just fewer than 20% last year.

“I believe that discounting distorted the market. The unseemly rush to discount prior to Christmas appears to have become a standard, led by brands with strong coffret sales.

We have worked hard to reduce any discounting and I believe that the competitive situation acted against our value lines. It was strong core business which drove our sales and this was across both department stores and chains.”

Andrew Rodgers General Manager, UK & Ireland, Bare Escentuals “We saw double digit growth throughout both October and November, but finished with our strongest month in December. We continued to grow ahead of the market and gain market share, particularly in makeup where we are strongest. We pushed our Christmas sets into stores during October and November with a selection of offers at different price points making sure there was something to appeal to everyone. Pre-made gift sets offering exceptional value to our customers were key, ranging from stocking fillers {starting at £15} to more deluxe collections at £45. Our sell-through of limited edition Christmas sets was up 10% in 2012, meaning that we went into the January sales with limited stock left to sell and inventory pretty clean. Our fastest sellers included limited edition product formats such as our Ready Luminizer and makeup kits with a clear and appealing story, such as the bareMinerals ‘Smoky and Sultry Eye and Lip Kit’. There was also strong sell-through in our skincare sets, which was encouraging.

“Many or our customers made the choice to shop online and our e-commerce business doubled in sales during 2013.

While this still represents a small percentage of the overall business, it continues to be our fastest growing sector.

Improved confidence in on-time delivery makes this channel a more appealing prospect for gift shopping.”

Ian Marshall Managing Director, Benefit Cosmetics “We had our most successful Christmas ever with our gift sets and enjoyed success from early on in the season. It was another terrific year for Benefit, with total growth of almost 20% versus 2012. Carnaby Street esprit march 2014

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outperformed expectations from day one and we have been particularly encouraged by the success of some of our new services: blow drying, nail services etc. Our growth online is three times that of our ‘bricks and mortar’, which is very exciting. However, we still feel the interaction between our BA teams and our customers in-store is vital to our aim of continuing to introduce our brand to new customers and provide the most satisfying service for those who are already loyal to us.

“In premium cosmetics, the brands that won out were the ones who ‘delivered their promise’ and managed to combine the appeal of the new, innovative and effective, with the care and service levels that ensured consumers went away smiling and keen to return.”

Natalie Moon Marketing Director, Coty Prestige “Coty Prestige Christmas 2013 delivered solid results in line with our expectations.

Over the past few years we have seen Christmas come later, and with Christmas Day landing on a Wednesday, this year was no exception. The impact of online sales, click and collect options further facilitating purchase and the retailers’ discounting strategies were no doubt drivers of this.

The Christmas coffrets from our classic lines, such as Marc Jacobs Daisy and Chloe Signature continued to sell well this year alongside Calvin Klein and cKone, to name a few.”

Ruth Newton Jones Director of Strategy and Business Development, Designer Brands “2013 Christmas was definitely a year led by discounting. For many years Ghost has participated in discounting on various products with various retailers and we were amazed by how many really premium brands were discounting by as much as 30%. We performed well in Superdrug on their large size value offers, but not as good as last year with some retailers as there was greater competition in the discounting arena.

Our classic fragrances, Ghost the Fragrance and Deep Night, were our best sellers, performing better than last year, while our more recent launches did not perform as well as the classics. Coffrets are very important to the Ghost brand, representing over 35% of sales.

“We didn’t advertise this year, choosing to spend our money to support the retailers instead.

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beautyrelated

a look at what’s new in the marketplace Freshness redefined The Elie Saab woman is radiant, her asset is her figure, magnified by the luxurious elegance of a wardrobe renewed each year with a haute-couture collection. Now that creativity has been continued, with the introduction of L’Eau Couture, an olfactive extension of the designer’s 2014 Spring collection.

Perfumer, Francis Kurkdjan, uses a fresh mix of scents to introduce the perfumes extreme refinement - top

Exotic limited edition Exotic is a new, sexy and intoxicating fragrance launching from Jimmy Choo.

Inspired by the precious skins of the Jimmy Choo collection, in particular, the python, this limited edition fragrance is a reinterpretation of the original Jimmy Choo scent.

Exotic is a fruity floral based around tiger orchids and patchouli, balanced with tart spicy notes of pink grapefruit and raspberry. Accords of blackcurrant sorbet and passion flower add to the irresistible and sensual imprint of the fragrance, evoking hot heady summer days and evenings.

Tailored for the eclectic and edgy woman with a natural magnetism, Exotic mirrors this confidence with its colourful and glamorous design.

Based on the faceted glass design of the original Jimmy Choo perfume, the Exotic bottle comes in a sparkling coral shade. The box features a python print, in shades of coral, yellow and chocolate.

Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette 60ml (£44.00) will be available from March 31st 2014.

Mend my hair! notes of bergamot essence blend with magnolia, its sumptuous floral facet unfolding into the delicate scent of rose and lemon, a prelude to the orange blossom middle that inhabits the fragrance like a whisper. A green crisp almond base unites the blossoms with an infusion of light vanilla, revealing the intricate subtle transparency of this floral addictive and feminine fragrance.

Dressed in a elegant water-green box, the delicately faceted bottle reveals a crystalline green transparent juice, a reflection of the freshness of the fragrance.

Elie Saab Le Parfum L’Eau Couture is now available nationwide in 30ml/£31.00; 50ml/£47.00 and 90ml/£66.00 after launching exclusively at John Lewis.

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Umberto Giannini has launched Mend My Hair, a range of hair care products designed to conceal split ends, reduce breakages and repair and strengthen all damaged hair types.

The range contains four products: Rebuild Strengthening Damage Repair Shampoo; Recover Nourishing Damage Repair Conditioner; Rehab - Salon Smooth Damage Repair Keratin Spray and Therapy Intensive Repair 5 In 1 Oil. The Mend My Hair range is particularly suitable at targeting coloured and heat

styled hair, leaving it conditioned and hydrated by replacing lost moisture and softness, transforming even the most brittle damaged locks.

Now available at Boots and Boots.com, Umberto Giannini salons and Umbertogiannini.com

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Jasmin’s golden heart Inspired by the scent and pureness of the Jasmine flower, Acqua di Parma has launched their first special limited edition of Gelsomino Nobile.

The jasmine flower’s delicate beauty, captured within the fragrance, is also featured on the finely engraved, gold silkscreened bottle.

The soft stylised hand-drawn corollas that adorn the bottle go through a time-consuming process where 24-carat gold decoration is printed onto the glass. Craftsmen engrave each petal, and due to the complexity of the procedure, only 100 bottles can be produced each day.

A rich fragrance, gentle and intense at the same time, opens with top notes of mandarin and pink pepper that combine with seducing tuberose, announcing the radiant character of jasmine at the heart of the fragrance. Delicate woody base notes add to the fragrance’s warmth and sensuality.

Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile Special Edition, priced at £108, 100ml, is now available exclusively at Harrods.

Radiant looking skin Swiss beauty experts, Mavala, have introduced a collection of moisturising tinted BB creams designed to give a natural base and radiant looking skin.

This lightweight, yet nourishing tinted moisturiser, evens out skin tone and blurs imperfections while providing a sheer hint of colour. The inclusion of Vitamin E and Hyaluronic acid helps protect against environmental damage while keeping skin smooth and hydrated.

Mavala Moisturizing Tinted BB Cream is now available in six shades: Porcelain Beige, Camel, Marron, Savane, and Beige Ambré.

Aroma reeds addition Aroma-Reeds are the latest addition to the Molton Brown Home Fragrance Collection. Available across five of their best-loved fragrances - Orange & Bergamot; Ylang Ylang; Gingerlily; Pink Pepperpod and Mulberry & Thyme, the Aroma-Reeds are designed to subtly perfume your space for up to four months thanks to their slow and steady diffusion. The fragrance blend can be varied according to the number of reeds used at any one time.

Now available from www.moltonbrown.co.uk priced at £44.00.

Wow!...Pomegranate & hibiscus Celebrating the trend towards sweet, fruity floral, scents, Woods of Windsor have introduced Pomegranate & Hibiscus, a new contemporary fragrance collection for Spring, while at the same time, broadening its fragrance portfolio by extending the Bergamot & Neroli and Cedar Woods ranges with new Eau de Toilettes.

Pomegranate and Hibiscus is presented in packaging with hand-drawn illustrations that depict the key ingredients and to reflect the

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brands English heritage.

Opening with citrus top notes of bergamot and mandarin, it gives way to a heart of pomegranate, cassis, ginger, mimosa and tropical hibiscus flower, enhanced with a warm, sweet powdery base that blends sandalwood and vanilla.

Woods of Windsor Pomegranate and Hibiscus is available in a Moisturising Hand Wash £5.99 - 350ml; Moisturising

Bath & Shower Gel £8.50 - 350ml; Moisturising Hand & Body Lotion £8.75 - 350ml and Eau de Toilette £14.99 - 100ml.

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#KARLPARFUMS

THE NEW SIGNATURE SCENT FOR WOMEN AND MEN

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