Unexpected Thailand

ASIA VOLUME 9 ISSUE 4

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TOKYO DISNEY SEA - GREAT RAILWAY GETAWAYS - TREKKING THE MANASLU CIRCUIT

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016

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COVER STORY

Unexpected Thailand venture across the

A 1-night weekend stay at Orchid Lodge in Orchid Country Club Worth US$260++ (5 sets to give away)

A PUBLICATION OF

country from chiang mai to mae hong son

SHOPPING REPORT local designers to watch in the fashion capital of bangkok EPICUREAN ESCAPES a true taste of siam

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9 770219 896015

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NORTHERN THAILAND fall in love with the simple life of lampang and chiang mai

SGD6 THB195 RP75,000

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SPECIAL FEATURE

Bangkok Break FOR LEISURE TRAVELLERS LOOKING TO SQUEEZE IN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE INTO THEIR WEEKEND GETAWAY, CENTRAL GROUP’S PLETHORA OF DINING AND RETAIL OPTIONS WILL ENSURE THAT EVEN THE BRIEFEST OF JAUNTS WILL STILL BE A WORTHWHILE ONE ROYAL TREATMENT

TEXT AND IMAGES: ARA LUNA

Sitting along the busy streets of Wireless Road and Ploenchit Junction, Central Embassy, Bangkok’s new iconic retail landmark, rises a staggering 37 floors up. The now-touted ‘Asia’s Most Luxurious Mall’ is presently home to high-end, international labels including Bottega Veneta, Chanel, and Hermes. This architectural wonder stands as two buildings weaved into a fluid, infinity design symbol to reflect the old and new Thailand and the promise of “infinite possibilities.”

Harboured within the massive 144,000 square metre expanse is Embassy Diplomat Screens, a swanky six-star theatre that no frequent moviegoer can resist. It boasts five concept cinemas (with 203 palatial seats each) and is powered by RealD, the latest visual and audio system in the film market. Further enhancing the viewers’ cinematic experience, Embassy Diplomat Screens features real leather couches, 180-degree flat beds, plush sofa seats, and all-you-can-drink minibars.

Also, the premium grade popcorn choices add a ritzy layer to an already illustrious setting.

If the day’s events bog the body down, find heavenly respite from the cosmopolitan jungle’s bustle at Dii Divana. Artistically adorned in futuristic interiors, this wellness and medical spa displays a sense of spirally perpetual euphoria, thanks to the presence of towering turquoise models of the DNA double helix as its centrepiece. An aristocraticlike session or two from Dii Divana’s comprehensive range of cutting-edge medical and aesthetic treatments can undoubtedly charter a cleansed mind and replenished soul with every visit.

PALATE PLEASERS Tasting Bangkok’s gastronomic flavours is always a must when in the area, so it’s best to sate grumbling bellies first in Nara’s cosy ambience and artfully curated space. Located in the fifth level of Central Embassy, Nara evokes a sense of authentic Thai spirit with its local selections that are crafted from age-old recipes and quality ingredients. Eathai, on the other hand, is a food junction where the best street food vendors from all over Thailand are brought together in a modern dwelling. Picky eater or not, there will always be something to

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tickle the taste buds here.

Tucked in the middle of Eathai’s novel food arena is the Issaya Cooking Studio.

The facility features a panoramic kitchen space where aspiring chefs can learn how to concoct classic Thai cuisine, and whip up indulgent pastries and desserts under the mentorship of celebrity Thai chef, Ian Kittichai, and his team. Afterwards, savour a quiet afternoon tea at Issaya La Patisserie, where sinful creations from the kitchen studio are sold, purchased, and relished in a dainty pastel-embellished nook.

cafes, 15-screen cinemas, plus a dozen more entertainment and recreational outlets that are sure hits for any age or gender.

Bedecked with graphic modern furnishings, ZEN, a lifestyle megastore within CentralWorld, allows consumers to explore new heights of creativity with its seven-levelsworth of visually pleasing emporiums. For more five-and-dimes, cross the connecting bridge from Central Embassy to Central Chidlom and explore this one-stop shopping avenue for irresistible bargains. Feeling famished from hopping from shop to shop?

Troop to EAT (Eat All Thai) and chow down classic home-cooked Thai dishes that remain faithful to the local palate.

Finally, if you’re seeking a place to sit down and chill, direct your feet to Groove@ CentralWorld. This popular hangout destination along Rama I Road mostly appeals to urbanites and tourists who long to kick their soles up at an intimate dining or coffee joint. Nocturnal party animals can also climb all the way to the top of CentralWorld for a delicious nightcap at Heaven Bangkok that overlooks the city’s enthralling skyline.

PROUDLY THAI One standout trait of Thai people is that they are astoundingly proud of their roots.

Otop Heritage evidently mirrors that with their products. Specifically promoting world-class artefacts from all over Thailand, each meticulously helmed piece from Otop Heritage is handcrafted by a skilled group of Thai villagers whose expertise has been passed from generation to generation.

On another note, Siwilai has a different approach when showcasing the Land of Smiles’ history. Set in a brightly lit multibrand concept store, the products sold here strongly echo the Thai heritage while infusing them with contemporary flair. Aside from clothing, Siwilai also markets authentic silk scarves, vintage vinyl records, and a lot more treasures.

When it comes to fashion, it’s a fact that Bangkok never fails to step up its game.

Sretsis – by Thai sisters Pim, Kly and Matina Sukhahuta – prides itself for its signature whimsical designs that draw out age-old femininity and avant-garde fetishes. Then there is Disaya by award-winning Disaya Sorakraikitikul, who has stamped her name on the international scene for almost a decade and has dressed celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Kelly Osbourne, and the late Amy Winehouse.

ONE PLACE FITS ALL The mishmash of colours and the flurry of excited activity are sure to captivate people from all walks of life to CentralWorld’s colossal retail space. Spanning a massive 550,000 square metres, the largest known shopping destination in Bangkok has every mall rat’s dream down pat. Engorge in guiltless pleasure over its 100 multi-cultural restaurants and

SIDE NOTE: Exemplary as the city may be, Bangkok is also known for its horrendous traffic jams. To escape this gridlock, book your stay at Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld where tourist attractions are but a stone’s throw away. Log on to www.centarahotelsresorts.com/ centaragrand/cgcw/ for enquiries.

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Destinations WE EXPLORE THE VERY BEST OF THAILAND BEYOND BANGKOK, FROM ITS CULTURAL CAPITAL OF CHIANG MAI TO THE BUSTLING BEACHES OF KOH SAMUI AND TRANQUIL HILLS OF MAE HONG SON

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TEXT: DARYL TAN / IMAGES: DARYL TAN, DREAMSTIME

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COVER STORY

hailand,

a thousand t imes over Beware: Journey across Koh Samui, Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son and wind up inspired to visit Thailand, again and again

IN DOUGLAS COUPLAND’S GENERATION X: TALES FOR AN ACCELERATED CULTURE, Elvissa poses a question to her group of companions. “After you’re dead and buried and floating around whatever place we go to, what’s going to be your best memory of earth?”

She follows with the judgment that fake yuppie experiences that one has to spend money on, like white water rafting and elephant rides in Thailand, do not count. Well, as far as the Thai Proverb “Ram mai dee toht bpee toht glorng” goes, those who can’t dance blame it on the flute and drum, and thank goodness the 32 million “yuppie” visitors Thailand is expecting this year feel the same, myself included. I have stepped foot on Thai soil many times – some were summers spent on lively jam-packed beaches, most were spent hunting up the best bargains in the city of Bangkok – and all left me moments and memories to cherish for life.

With six days in Thailand this time, I embarked on the path to my modern nirvana, starting south on Koh Samui’s beaches, moving up north to cultural city Chiang Mai, before joining the hill tribes in Mae Hong Son.

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Take it easy in Koh Samui

For city dwellers like me, there aren’t many moments in life when we get to retire into tropical island paradise, but stepping into Koh Samui’s open-air resort airport instantly eased me into the slow-paced and carefree island beach life.

LUSCIOUS BEACHES Take in the gorgeous landscapes that the abundant natural beaches of Koh Samui have to offer as you sink your feet into the warm sand tickling your toes and feel the fresh caress of salty sea air against your glistening tanned skin. The clear waters of these idyllic southern islands are a sparkling turquoise blue, with coral reefs to boast.

Chaweng Beach is a popular spot for tourists but I would recommend chartering a boat or joining a day tour out to Ang Thong National Marine Park (another well-known tourist destination) and the surrounding islands for water sports like snorkeling and kayaking. Head’s up, your choices range from longtail boats to luxury yachts so choose a vendor that best fits your budget. You should be able to do bookings at your hotel.

Samui is also less commercialised compared to other popular beaches in Thailand like crammed-up Phi Phi Islands, so toss a lucky coin and you might steer into an island all to yourself like I did on Koh Madsum!

clockwise from right

Hin Ta and Hin Ya are believed to resemble male and female genitalia

Chaweng is a popular tourist spot

Kick your feet up at the newly renovated Amari

NO DOG ISLAND

Koh Samui

After Koh Madsum, I spent some time on nearby Koh Tan. The island, home to a community of only a hundred people, has a small temple (take a small trek in to find the temple spot that monks seasonally inhabit for meditation), school, clinic and numerous rare butterfly species. But the most fascinating part is the legend behind this unspoiled island.

The fable goes that due to an ancient curse any dog that sets foot on the island will die a horrible death. I remain skeptical in spite of my guide’s insistence that the theory was proven by a National Geographic experiment, but I sure did not make any dog sightings during my time there!

End off your day out at the beaches with a trip to Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks (Hin Ta and Hin Ya). With a bit of imagination, these natural rock formations, resembling the male and female genitalia, will provide a humorous fail-proof photo opportunity.

Wat Khunaran also doubles up as a shrine to a mummified monk

The majestic Big Buddha

TEMPLE TALES Temples are aplenty in Thailand but two mustsee temples in Samui are Wat Khunaram and the Big Buddha Temple.

Wat Khunaram is notable for being the shrine of a mummified monk, displayed for all to see in a glass casket (he sits upright and wears sunglasses!) while the Big Buddha Temple will take your breath away with its majestic stature.

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COVER STORY

WHERE TO STAY

From sea view bungalows to luxury apartments, there are endless accommodation choices on Koh Samui to help you live up the resort life. One resort that you may want to check out is the newly renovated Amari Koh Samui that is situated on the sands of Chaweng, a convenient 10-minute drive from the airport. Affordably priced for the VIP treatment you get, their contemporary Thai-infused style resort rooms are clean, spacious and feature private balconies for guests to lounge and unwind on.

GETTING THERE

IMAGE: TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

Most flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Koh Samui are operated by Bangkok Airways, who privately owns and operates the airport. SilkAir also offers direct flights from Singapore.

GETTING AROUND

The best option for the adventurous traveller is to rent a motorcycle for about 200 to 300 baht per day. A safer option, especially for those travelling in big groups, would be to rent a car priced anywhere between 800 to 2000 baht a day. Otherwise, yellow taxis and Songthaews (covered shared taxis) can easily be flagged off the roads of Samui to take you to your destination at very affordable fares.

WHEN TO GO

December till February is the best time to visit, but if you aren’t afraid to soak up the heat, the less busy but very hot months of March until August is a great time as well. Those who choose to visit between September and November might have to beware of monsoon winds and jellyfishes!

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Chiang Mai’s captivating contrasts

I am not quite sure how Chiang Mai has managed to retain its blissful laid-back charm while catering to an overenthusiastic tourist sector, but it seems the Thais have embraced the presence of foreigners, assimilating elements of foreign culture into Thai aesthetics and the “Thai way of life”.

Here, I found the harmonious co-existence of modern facilities and warm hospitality with a civilisation so rich in culture, her customs and beliefs are deeply implanted within her people.

FOR ART-LOVERS

below from left

A macabre display at the Chiang Mai Dolls Making Museum

Wat Sri Suphan glistens under the sun

right

Remains of the old city walls

opposite

Trekking in Chiang Mai is a breeze thanks to its

IMAGES: FLICKR/ANTON, TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

From drawing and painting, to engraving, plastering, moulding, lacquering and modelling, it is no secret that art in Thailand is one of the most intricate in the world, known for its fine details and deep connection to folklore.

Keep a look out for the glorious ornamental mouldings and inscriptions at all their temples.

In Chiang Mai, the Wat Sri Suphan is a must-see. Conveniently located within Wulai, Chiang Mai’s traditional silver-making district, the glistening silver temple is illuminated from the inside out with silver, nickel and aluminum panels – a spectacular display of silver craftwork. Heads up, strict customs unfortunately dictate that women are not allowed in the main ordination hall area.

Support traditional Thai crafts and take a trip to the Chiang Mai Dolls Making Museum that started out as a family tradition. Personally witness the process of handcrafting dolls, get creeped out by a huge collection of dolls from all around the world and learn more about Thailand’s doll ghost customs!

Finally, embrace the evolution of the art scene in Thailand and spend the afternoon at Baan Kang Wat Artists Village. A commune

pleasant weather

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COVER STORY

WHERE TO STAY

Once again, there are many diverse accommodation choices in Chiang Mai. But for a truly luxury experience, the Shangri-La Chiang Mai would be your best bet. It is an enchanting sanctuary in itself, equipped with top quality Thai spa facilities. Extend your holiday retreat and spend an entire day within this resort wonderland to get your money’s worth!

GETTING THERE

Fly direct from Singapore with Singapore Airlines and Bangkok Airways. AirAsia flies direct from Kuala Lumpur.

GETTING AROUND

Like Samui, private transport options include rental cars and motorbikes.

Or else, hitch a ride on a tuk tuk or a songthaew. The red songthaews brings you around the city at a bargain of about 15 Baht. Other coloured songthaews are also available to bring you exploring at different outlying areas in Chiang Mai

of shophouses designed to highlight traditional and modern Thai architectural elements, the village was first built as a quaint and rustic enclave for local creative businesses to showcase their handmade products. Housing art galleries, studios and cafes, this hipster town cannot be missed!

TIME FOR A HIKE! Put on some sturdy shoes and make your way to Pha Cho Canyon that emerged as a result of a natural phenomenon of eroded soil pillars after the Ping River changed its course.

Make it to the top to be rewarded with a truly spectacular view.

With a modest entrance fee of 100 Baht (an additional 20 Baht for a motorbike to take you around as the walking distance is really long), the Canyon is located near Doi Inthanon

WHEN TO GO

National Park, about 2 hours drive from Chiang Mai. Hire a taxi to take you there if you do not already have chartered transport and be sure to bring snacks and lots of water as there aren’t that many rest spots within the park!

The adventure buffs might also like to fork out some money for Zipline courses with companies like Zipline Adventures in Chiang Mai.

Visit from the end of November to the middle of February to experience Chiang Mai’s signature cool temperatures. The hot season which runs from April to June might be too strenuous for outdoor activities if you are not used to the heat.

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left from top

The many rolling hills of Mae Hong Son

Night view of the Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu

below

The locals are shy but friendly

Wat Chong Klang’s intricate details IMAGES: TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

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COVER STORY

Get intimate in Mae Hong Son

This uniquely diverse province connects to a total of three states in Myanmar, with rivers as its natural boundaries. From costumes to language, her proximity to Myanmar means the people of Mae Hong Son share many similar customs and beliefs, and at many points I even forgot that I was still in Thailand.

With the lowest population density in all of Thailand, Mae Hong Son also makes for a great nature retreat destination. Be sure to pick up copies of the Mae Hong Son and Miracle Routes to Mae Hong Son brochures, courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, before embarking on your explorations there. The brochures include emergency contacts and will highlight to you all the destination points in this colourful rural province.

HOMESTAY WITH THE HILLTRIBES There are many homestay and trekking packages for travellers to indulge in the rich traditions and farming community of the hilltribes. Tribe Villages also have little “shopping districts” set up for tourists to purchase traditional goods.

Join the Shan tribe in Ban Mae La Na. The Shan People migrated from (then) Burma and observe a Buddhist way of living. While you are there, be sure to take a good look at the whole of Mae Hong Son from on top of the hill. The misty hills are an awe-inspiring sight to behold. Also visit Mae La Na Temple, at the heart of the village. The unassuming structure houses amazing art works and playful novice monks who can be very shy before they warm up!

MORNING MARKETS If you catch yourself waking up early, hop on a Song Thaew and be on your way to Mae Hong Son morning market for a day in the life of a local. You can find fresh produce and locally made products there.

CHASING SUNSETS And for a moment like no other, end off your journey in Mae Hong Son by catching the sunset at Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, the oldest landmark of Mae Hong Son – a whitewashed temple topped in gold. Standing on top of Kong Mu Hill, the Wat Phra That Doi

Kong Mu overlooks the entire Mae Hong Son valley. As the sun sets into the horizon, you’ll see the orange rays light up the sky with a crimson hue. Cast a silhouette standing in front of the camera and snap a shot!

Finally, you might like to finish off your temple visits with Wat Jong Kham and Wat Chong Klang, the Burmese style twin temples located on the picturesque Jong Kham Lake.

At night, the temples are majestically lit up for another perfect picture opportunity.

While the vibrancy of Bangkok used to be a key highlight of my holidays to Thailand, on this accidentally curated route through the country’s less-trodden destinations, I found myself seeing Thailand in new light – uncovering a country of extraordinary contrasts from her noiselessly white southern beaches to her sacred and respected temples, her delicate artistic crafts and expressions to rustic adventures amongst the people of the hills.

Life over my six-day excursion across the country was comfortably tranquil, yet driven by the thrill of discovering something new each day. As I waved goodbye to the young novice monks of Mae La Na before taking the car to watch the sun disappear behind the hills on my last day there, I also remember how much I will miss the rich flavour of an unassuming plate of Gaeng Hang Lay. Full of intimate moments to keep close heart, I suppose this is the allure of Thailand, that returning travellers like myself just cannot get enough of.

GETTING THERE

Opening up more options, Bangkok Airways only recently commenced service flights here. There are a few other airlines that offer afforable flights from Bangkok and Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. Land and rail options are also available via Bangkok and Chiang Mai but be prepared for the long hours and neverending curves up hill!

GETTING AROUND

Get the most out of this unspoiled town by getting around using motorbikes (rental at about 150 to 200 baht a day).

You could also pre-arrange a car to ferry you around or rent a bicycle if you are ready to ride up hills!

WHEN TO GO

Like Chiang Mai, the end of November to the middle of February is ideal.

MAE HONG SON

CHIANG MAI

THAILAND

KOH SAMUI

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TEXT: JONATHAN GAN / IMAGES: JONATHAN GAN, DREAMSTIME

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orthern Thailand

Lampang & Chiang Mai’s finest offerings

Temples, umbrellas, bowls and nature shape the theme of some of Thailand’s most tranquil and culturally diverse areas

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Lampang

A small town of only 58,000 people, Lampang’s allure is clearly its simplicity of life and smiling residents. While all may appear serene and uneventful on the surface, one is quick to learn that many great gems of industry exist beneath the town’s unassuming rural veneer.

LEGEND OF LAMPANG & WAT PRAKAEWDONTAO The legend of Lampang plays a significant role in the multifaceted tale of the Emerald Buddha, which is considered to be the national treasure of Thailand. As there are many tales that involve this legendary palladium, the Emerald Buddha in question refers specifically to the one located in Wat Phra That Lampang Luang. The legend begins with a young woman by the name of Chao Mae Suchada, who grew an unusually large above

Statues depicting the legendary tale of Chao Mae Suchada, her watermelon and the abbot

right

Explanations regarding the Emerald Buddha statue and the story of Chao Mae Suchada

melon during a time of famine. Due to her kind nature and charitable spirit, the young lady decided to share the melon with an abbot from the nearby monastery. However the gods during the time had bigger plans as the melon was willed to be shaped into a Buddha image through the intervention of Indra, a noted deity in both Buddhist and Hindu mythology. While relationships between Mae Suchada and the abbot remained pure of heart, rumours started circulating that the couple had been sexually involved. This caught the attention of the Lanna king then who upon hearing the false accusations ordered the brutal beheading of Suchada. Upon her death, Suchada cursed the town of Lampang stating that an indication of innocence would be that her blood would float upwards towards the sky which happened the moment the beheading stroke fell and the residents of the town cried out in horror over their ignorance. So deep was the influence of this myth on the town that many have attributed the failure of the town to develop some of its industries to this mythical tale. For those who wish to obtain a closer look at the story, the famous tale is well depicted by statues built in Wat Phra Kaew Dontao which shares adjacent grounds with another temple called Wat Suchadaram.

The graven image that was crafted by the abbot and Indra is now housed in Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, one of the most highly revered temples in Thailand.

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THAILAND

Possibly one of the oldest and most intact temples of Thailand, the Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is the crown jewel of temples in Lampang WAT PHRA THAT LAMPANG LUANG Old and worn may describe the setting one feels when entering, but the stories that lie behind the Wat Phra That Lampang Luang certainly give reason for its tired-looking exterior.

Possibly one of the oldest and most intact temples of Thailand, the Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is the crown jewel of temples in Lampang as it houses many relics for Buddhist devotees and plays a significant role in the history of Lampang.

Entering the temple, one would see that much of the architecture within the temple remains largely untouched and still remains filled with sand. The temple is also frequently visited by pigeons which have since grown accustomed to the presence of people who have come to pray.

Its main prayer hall (viharn luang) is situated right after the main entrance and is open on all sides. Within the hall sits a massive Buddha statue called the “Phra Chao Lang Thong” enclosed within a shimmering pagoda.

Another sight to behold is the enormous 45m tall chendi located behind the viharn which is rumoured to be the oldest structure in the temple. For Buddhist devotees, the huge chendi is said to house the hair relic of Lord Buddha which was donated some 2,500 years ago.

On the railings of the chendi, one may also find several bullet holes which were said to be created by legendary folk hero Nan Thipchang, an ancestor of the house of Chao Chet Ton which ruled Lanna as a Siamese vassal during the Thonburi eras.

A curious-looking structure situated somewhere in the temple grounds bears notice as a prominent sign outside states explicitly that women are not allowed to enter. The small tower-like structure is called the Ho Phra Phuttabat, said to house the footprint of Lord Buddha and is only open to the public on important festival dates. A grey statue of the footprint is also available in the viharn luang and can be easily identified by the coins that have been donated onto it.

A small chapel called the Wiharn Phra Phut is located to left of the main prayer hall and is perhaps the most beautiful structure in the courtyard. From its exterior one can see the original teak wood pillars and the beautifully carved wooden façade complemented by colourful glass shards.

Exiting the court yard, you will find yourself in a huge bodhi tree garden with the trees supported by wooden stilts. The bodhi tree is revered in the Buddhist religion primarily because the tree was where Prince Siddartha Gautama or Lord Buddha first achieved enlightenment. According to ancient Buddhist texts, the Buddha meditated under the tree without moving from his seat for seven days. above

Viharn Phrat But

left

Entrance to the Wat Phra That Lampang Lua

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The oldest insulated thermal chamber in Lampang Province called the “Dragon Kiln” could house up to 8,000 chicken bowls in a single firing

DHANABADEE CERAMIC MUSEUM

clockwise from top left

World’s thinnest chicken bowl which measures only 900 micron

Immortalised bust of Mr Chin Simyu, also affectionately known as Mr. E

The signature chicken bowls of Dhanabadee Group

Enter any ancient coffee shop which serves wonton noodles and other delightful Chinese delicacies and you would be greeted with the sight of chicken bowls. While some attribute the founding of the bowls to ancient China, some swear that they were in fact from Thailand.

Putting all arguments to rest, this heritage product initially originated from Guangdong, China and found a new place to call home courtesy of founder Chin Sim Yu (Mr. E) who forged the ceramic industry of Lampang back in the 1950s.

To commemorate his works, the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum was set up and within it one can find the immortalised bust of Mr. E. Among the first developments of the ceramic industry in Lampang was the setting up of Dhanababesakul Crockery by Mr. E and his partners in 1965. This happened following the discovery of kaolinite deposits nearby, which was vital to the production of the chicken bowls. The ceramic-making industry subsequently received a significant boost from the government of Thailand following the ban of chicken bowls from China in 1957 by Field Marshal P. Pibulsongkram.

Till this day, the production of chicken bowls is still a very manual process with workers fastidiously hand-painting each bowl, an extremely time-consuming process to

preserve the utmost authenticity of each piece.

Within the museum is also the oldest insulated thermal chamber in the Lampang Province called the “Dragon Kiln”. The kiln would generally be fired up to searing temperatures of 1,260 degrees Celcius in order to form a durable chicken bowl. It is one of the national archaeological items of Thailand and took about 1 year to build. A magnificent feat during that time, the kiln could house up to 8,000 chicken bowls in a single firing.

Among the sights in the museum that should not be missed is the smallest chicken bowl in the world, even smaller than a Thai coin, which can be viewed though a glass enclosure while touring the museum.

Another record which was achieved by the museum is the world’s thinnest chicken bowl which measures only 900 micrometres. To put things into perspective, that’s the length of two dust mites.

The Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum was developed by Panasin Dhanabadee, the second son of Mr. E in an attempt to preserve the living and breathing arts of ceramicmaking. Visitors may also be able to try their hands at painting and developing ceramic arts of their own for a small fee. A ceramic shop is also available nearby for those who would like to purchase high quality ceramic souvenirs (www.dhanabadee.com).

QUICK FACTS ABOUT LAMPANG

• Third largest town in Northern Thailand • Notable exports include ceramic wares and timber. Also known for its agricultural produces which include pineapple, sugarcane and rice.

• Referred to by the locals as “Mueang Rot Ma” meaning “Horse Carriage City”

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THAILAND

Chiang Mai

Cultures tend to die a natural death if not preserved or given life. One city in Thailand aims to change that by portraying items considered most significant to Thailand. Not many know this, but Chiang Mai is known as the most culturally significant city in Northern Thailand. The name “Chiang Mai” literally means “New City” and was named so after the formation of the new Lanna Kingdom in 1296. The city houses an array of cultural highlights and ecotourism experiences for visitors, and is generally considered a welcome break from the bustling conditions of the capital city.

Miang tea leaf pillows are believed to help individuals boost their immune system and provide one with restful sleep

MAE KHAMPONG VILLAGE Away with blocks of concrete which sap the soul and life therein and replace them with rows of trees and you will find that life in the greens is much more bearable. The hills leading to Mae Khampong Village are littered with winding roads and an endless kaleidoscope of butterflies, which provide sweet company as you make your way up to the quiet retreat. With a population of only 400 villagers, Mae Khampong Village is a small community of agricultural farmers that have transformed their home into a eco-tourism destination. Settling in the area more than 100 years ago, the community at Mae Khampong got its name from having small streams which pass through its village. River streams in the Northern Thai language are referred to as “nam mae” hence the name “Mae Khampong”.

The main produce for export in the village is a fermented tea leaf called “miang” in which almost all villagers grow and harvest. However recent declines in demand for miang tea have directed the village to seek out other sources of income, including coffee and eco-tourism.

The idea first came from the village headman who saw the potential of the community after attending eco-tourism programs supported by the government. Currently, a total of 27 houses are available for home stays.

One of the must try activities within the community is the experience of making a tea pillow which is generally made with mature miang leaves which are too overgrown for tea production. The process of making a tea pillow generally begins with the harvesting of tea leaves which are either sun-dried or dried using a small oven. Following the drying process, villagers pile the dried leaves together and shove them into tiny pillow bags which are then sewed up. The tea leaf pillows are believed to help individuals boost their

above from left

Khet Tat Wah flower used for sought for its refreshing scents and used for religious ceremonies

Young Miang tea leaves used for brewing potent and strong tasting coffee

immune system and provide one with restful sleep due to its natural aromatic smell.

A certain fragrant flower called “Khet Tha Wah” also exists in the village for those seeking out refreshing scents. A whiff of the flower would provide a comforting fragrant smell evocative of light jasmine. The local Buddhist community would generally use the flower during important religious ceremonies.

For those who are more adventurous with their taste buds, remember to ask the villagers for “Miang Waan”, a local treat that the villagers have developed using the miang tea leaves.

The snack is a combination of ginger, coconut, beans and the miang tea leaves and is sure to surprise with its strong combination of flavours.

Villagers may also serve one of their signature desserts called “Than Thong”, a yellow tapioca slab topped with coconut shavings and black sesame. The dessert is generally accompanied by the village’s own local tea and coffee.

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Initially, paper umbrellas were made only for religious purposes or to be given to monks on ritual occasions

BOR SANG UMBRELLA FACTORY If you ever need to put something away for a rainy day, a Bor Sang umbrella would be a great place to start. Having existed for over two centuries and being recognised by the Thai Geographical Indications in 2009, the Bor Sang umbrella originates from the Sankamphaeng and Doi Saket districts of Chiang Mai. Initially, paper umbrellas were made only for religious purposes or to be given to monks on ritual occasions. Then came Mr. Thavil Buacheen who developed it into a thriving enterprise following his establishment of the Bor Sang Umbrella Making factory in 1978.

Some of the important materials needed to make the umbrella include softwood, bamboo and palm leaves which are used to form the heads, ribs and also stem of the umbrella. The paper used to cover the umbrella frame is made from Mulberry Paper, better known by the locals as “Sa Paper�. Its making generally involves soaking the bark of the mulberry tree for 24 hours before an extensive process of boiling and rinsing with clean water. The material is then beaten with mallets, put in a water tank and stirred with a paddle until the materials are suspended in 68

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the water. Following that, it is extracted and dried in the sun to be ready for processing after 20 minutes.

As the paper is not considered durable against heavy rains, a special mixture of paste and persimmon fruit secretions are then use to help tense and water proof the umbrella. Bor Sang Umbrellas are made to order and can be customised into sizes ranging from 10 inches to 48 inches in diameter.

Only in the recent two decades have the villagers and workers at the umbrella factory taken to painting on them. Most of the workers at the centre have developed their skills through practice and hard work and have not had any formal training whatsoever.

The intricate designs of the drawings can be seen from depicting various animals and other unique floral designs as well.

The umbrella-making centre also houses a landmark item which is a 7m diameter bamboo cotton umbrella which was made in 1988 to honour the late Princess Diana of Wales during her visit to the factory. The item remains on display to this day with photos of the renowned princess hung above the giant masterpiece (www.handmade-umbrella.com).

OLD CHIANG MAI CULTURAL CENTRE Beautiful, mesmerising and culturally immersive are just some of the adjectives that can be used to describe this gem of a cultural centre that has existed for nearly five decades.

A visit to the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre will have you feeling just like an emperor in olden days while enjoying the company of beautiful maidens and serenaded to tranquillity through the rhythmic beats of Thai music, all while enjoying the delectable dishes served on a ‘khantoke’ or pedestal tray. The Yuan ‘khantoke’ made of teak wood is predominantly used in Northern Thailand as dining furniture in weddings, housewarmings and other festivals.

The show held in the tray’s namesake is “The Original Khantoke Dinner Show” which has been held at the cultural centre since the 1970s. Entry into the old cultural centre is certainly a treat with friendly faces greeting you with a ribboned garland around your neck. The garland represents only a segment of the magnificent feast of offerings which ensues, including scrumptious

servings of fried chicken, Burmese pork curry, fried cabbage, pork tomato-chilli paste, pork rinds, and fresh cucumbers accompanied with either sticky or plain rice as a complement. Brightly coloured and pleasing to the eye, the allure and irresistible smell of the food would have you diving in almost immediately.

Gentle rhythmic music follows with the clanging of cymbals which herald the arrival of alluring dancers with long golden plated fingernails. While the significance of this may elude the casual observer, this traditional dance is the pride of the Northern Thai people and is commonly reserved for honourable guests and state visitors. Called the “Fawn Lep” in Thai, the systematic and rhythmic movements of the dancers timed to the clanging of the cymbals is a must watch for those who enjoy cultural dances.

After enjoying your food, don’t be startled if you see the dancers moving off-stage to invite you to join in the excitement on stage. It is of course part of the fun at the Khantoke Dinner Show (www.oldchiangmai.com).

CHIANG MAI

LAMPANG

THAILAND

GETTING AROUND

GETTING THERE

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Workers inspecting the umbrella for flaws before proceeding to colour them

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The skeletal structure of the inside of a Borsang Umbrella

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Fawn Lep Dances, which are catered especially for honored guests and state visitors

QUICK FACTS ABOUT CHIANG MAI

• “Chiang Mai” means “New City” • Doi Inthanon, which stands at 2,565m, is the tallest mountain in Thailand • First formed by King Mengrai in 1296

Flights are available from many major cities to Chiang Mai. Direct flights from Kuala Lumpur are available on Airasia, while Bangkok Airways, Malaysian Airlines and SilkAir offer flights with one stop. From Singapore, fly direct to Chiang Mai on Singapore Airways, Bangkok Airways and Tigerair. Travel to Lampang from Chiang Mai via train, bus, or hired private vehicle; it’s advisable to check train schedules an book tickets beforehand.

Getting around in Thailand isn’t much difficulty if one has ride applications such as Grab. The app works perfectly for those looking for an affordable and fair way to travel around. Budget options also include a variety of busses and “songthaews” which are private taxis with two benches at the back.

To hail a songthaew just flag it down, and to indicate that you want to get out, either rap hard with a coin on the metal railings, or ring the bell if there is one.

Fares within towns are around 10–20 Bhat depending on distance.

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Features A GUIDE TO THAILAND’S REGIONAL CUISINE, BANGKOK’S PUSH TO BE THE FASHION CAPITAL OF SOUTHEAST ASIA, AND THE WORLD’S BEST RAILWAY ITINERARIES FOR A TRULY UNIQUE GETAWAY

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EPICUREAN ESCAPES

The of

aste

Siam

FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA, THAILAND’S VAST LANDSCAPES AND VARIED TRIBES HAVE MADE THEIR MARKS ON ITS CUISINE. BEYOND TOM YAM AND PAD THAI, WE BREAK THE COUNTRY DOWN INTO FOUR DISTINCT REGIONS FOR A COMPREHENSIVE TASTE OF WHAT IT REALLY MEANS TO EAT LIKE A THAI

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TEXT: MELISSA LORRAINE CHUA / IMAGE: DREAMSTIME, TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

CENTRAL

COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS FEATURING A VARIETY OF GLOBAL INFLUENCES AS MYRIAD AS ITS PEOPLE, Thai cuisine is an amalgamation of local ethnic traditions and international culinary influences; Dutch, Portuguese, French, Chinese and Japanese characteristics seamlessly blended into Buddhist roots. Traditionally, Thai dishes eschew large chunks of protein in favour of shredded meats laced with fresh herbs and spices, with gentler cooking methods such as stewing, baking and grilling. But with Chinese influences came the proclivity for stir- and deepfrying; Portuguese missionaries brought chillies with them in the 1600s; and Indian curry was adapted with the use of local ingredients and spices – coconut oil and milk replaced ghee, fresh herbs such as lemongrass and galangal replaced cardamom and ginger. What we define today as that uniquely Thai taste is actually a centuries-old confluence of Eastern and Western styles.

Yet in spite of these external influences, Thai cuisine remains distinctly local – a fact most clearly observed through its regional cuisine.

Before the completion of the railway in the 1920s, travel within the country was slow and time-consuming, so the four main regions – North, Northeast, Central and South – were left largely to govern themselves, keeping their individual ethnic dialects and traditions intact, including culinary ones. So rather than the homogenised umbrella of “Thai food” that has been so successfully exported to the rest of the world, true Thai cuisine is really a complement of diverse styles and flavours, from the seafood-influenced curries of the South and courtly dishes of the North, to the herbaceous recipes of the humble Northeast and the colourful flavours of the fertile Central delta.

With a delta-like landscape fed by an abundance of rivers, streams, and canals, the Central region is a fertile bed of paddy fields, orchards, vegetable plantations, and freshwater fisheries. The best rice is grown in this region, most notably the hom mali, or jasmine rice, a major export.

Central cuisine is the most internationally recognised, thanks to the presence of Bangkok as its capital – stalwarts that originated here include tom yam, the famous hot and sour soup, and kaeng khieo wan, the coconut-based green curry. Chinese influences are especially strong in this region, as seen from the use of clay pots, popularity of starches such as kuay teow (flat rice noodles), and pervasiveness of stirfrying. Second in significance is the Muslim community, whose influence can be seen through what is lauded as the most popular Thai-Muslim dish of all: satay, skewers of grilled seasoned meat often accompanied by a spicy dipping sauce.

Other Central inventions include tom kha kai, a creamy coconut milk-based soup with similar spices as tom yam; haw mok, a snack of small banana leaf cups filled with a steamed concoction of red curry paste, egg, coconut milk, and seafood; and phat phet, a spicy meatbased stir-fry of basil and curry paste.

Beyond Bangkok, you can find some truly local specialties. To the west at Nakhon Pathom, you can find khao lam, coconut sticky rice steamed in a length of bamboo.

To the southeast at Chanthaburi, they serve a special dish of noodles fried with crab meat, and use a distinctly flavoured leaf, chamuang, which grows in this region, for its curries. To the southwest at Phetchaburi, you will find khanom maw kaeng, a baked custard with a mung bean, egg and coconut milk base.

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Green curry is one of the most famous Thai dishes

Tom kha gai combines the flavours of tom yam with coconut milk

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NORTH

MILDLY SEASONED LIKE THE ROYALS USED TO EAT from left

Sai oua are a Northern specialty

Sausage spirals on display

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Som tam, green papaya salad

Curries take on a different profile here, with stronger emphasis on ginger and turmeric, and with a thinner, almost brothlike consistency than the coconut-based curries of Central Thailand. One of the most popular examples of this is khao soi, a dish of egg noodles served with a chicken, pork, or beef curry soup and topped with spring onions and pickled cabbage. Two other popular Northern curries include kaeng yuak, made with banana palm hearts, and kaeng khanoon, made with jackfruit.

Sai oua, or sausages, are a Northern specialty, often featuring a secret blend of ground pork, dried chillies, garlic, shallots and lemongrass. For a more acquired taste, sample some naem maw, a sausage of uncooked ground pork, pork rind, garlic, chilli and sticky rice, mixed into a clay pot and left to ferment.

A signature of the North is khan toke, not a single dish but an entire ritual comprising a range of dishes and a basket of sticky rice. Guests are seated on the floor, usually entertained by a cultural performance of folk music or tribal dance, as they dig into the array of Northern specialties.

IMAGES: TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

As a kingdom, Thailand first took shape in the mountainous regions of the North, forming a loose federation of states centred around Chiang Mai. It was only later that the first true capital of Siam, Sukhothai, was formed further down south. Due to its remoteness, Northern Thailand remains mostly untouched by external influences, retaining much of its original ethnic traditions, language, dress and food. Its cooler climate also means a larger variety of root vegetables and herbs, used in dishes that exhibit strong influences from neighbouring countries Myanmar and Laos – many in the North prefer sticky glutinous rice over white rice, usually rolled into balls and dipped into sauces.

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EPICUREAN ESCAPES

NORTHEAST

PUNGENT RUSTIC CUISINE THAT DOESN’T SKIMP ON SPICE Also known as Isan, this largest region of Thailand lies snugly against the borders of Laos to the north and east, and Cambodia to the south. Isolated from the west by the Phetchabun Mountains, Isan cuisine has more in common with Laos than the rest of Thailand. Even the Isan dialect is more Lao than Thai.

Food here is famed for being spicy and pungent, with a strong emphasis on dipping sauces that have been heavily seasoned with fermented fish (pla ra) and accompanied by raw vegetables and herbs. Isan people have a reputation for eating practically anything for protein including water buffalo, frogs, birds, snakes, lizards, and even insects.

As few trees grow in the region, there has historically been less access to wood for cooking, so Isan cuisine heavily features preserved, pickled and cured foods, and whatever can be eaten raw usually is.

Som tam, a salad of green, unripe papaya seasoned with lime, sugar, garlic, chilli and fish sauce, is this region’s most famous dish and comes in a few variations. The most common features dried shrimp, cherry tomatoes and roasted peanuts, but other varieties also come with pickled field crab.

Another fiery dish that originated from Isan is laab, a minced meat salad that is often eaten with sticky rice or wrapped in lettuce.

Available in pork, chicken or beef, laab is often stir-fried with shallots, coriander, fish sauce and garnished with mint.

A typical Isan meal will include a spicy and sour soup called tom saap, made with a base of shallots, lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and chilli, and usually completed with pork ribs and offal. Two other popular varieties of tom saap are beef tripe and liver, and chicken and tamarind. Also particular to this region is the giant Mekong catfish, pla beuk, which can only be caught during a certain time of the year, usually May.

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SOUTH

SEAFOOD-DRIVEN WITH EMPHASIS ON CURRIES AND SALT

IMAGES: TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

Consisting a slender peninsular of lush jungles and long stretches of beaches, Southern Thailand is topographically dissimilar from the rest of the country – a factor that is most evident in its dramatically unique cuisine. Most of the land is used for rubber and coconut plantations, and its close proximity to Malaysia and history of trade with India and Java mean strong Straits influences in its dishes. Bananas, cashew nuts and pineapples are also widely grown here, and form a familiar part of the cuisine, while its warm seas also mean an abundance of seafood, including shellfish, squid, and prawns, and a ready supply of sea salt.

Fresh turmeric turns many southern dishes a distinct yellow, and offers a piquant juxtaposition to the heavy use of chillies. A dish that perfectly encapsulates the flavours of the South is kaeng som, a spicy and sour soup usually made with fish and brimming with chillies and fresh turmeric. With its strong Malay, Javanese and Indian influences, curries also play a large part in the region, with a very typical version called kaeng tai pla featuring fermented fish stomach and pickled bamboo shoots. Another simply called “yellow curry” (kaeng leuang) is made with fish, green squash, pineapple, green beans and green papaya. Compared to the Central curries, Southern curries are usually hotter and feature shrimp paste for a more intense flavour.

Roti, a flaky, folded wheat bread fried on a griddle, comes alongside Southern curries at breakfast time, and is filled with grilled bananas and drizzled with condensed milk as an all-time favourite night-market snack. this page

COMO is known for is embodiment of holistic wellness, which includes the art of eating well to nourish the body and feed the mind. Their first cookbook features recipes that focus on a perfectly calibrated mix of raw and cooked ingredients with specific nutritional purposes, inspired by their various award-winning properties around the globe, and includes a freshwater crayfish and pomelo salad from Thailand.

Southern curries usually come accompanied with roti instead of rice

The Pleasures of Eating Well: Nourishing Favourites from the COMO Shambhala Kitchen is available at COMO Shambhala Urban Escape at Delfi Orchard, SuperNature at Forum the Shopping Mall, Culina at Dempsey Hill, Amazon.com, and www.club21global.com from early August 2016.

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BANGKOK

Shopping R

eport

bangkok

IMAGE: PDM BRAND

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TEXT: RAEWYN KOH

IT’S ALMOST UNDENIABLE THAT BANGKOK IS A SHOPPER’S PARADISE. Shopping here can almost be

could contend for the title. But the reality of it is that Bangkok could easily trump just about any place in the region. The malls, streets and markets selling cheap and trendy “throwaway fashion” are some of the biggest draws that entice travellers to repeat visits to Bangkok regularly. It is also no secret that many blogshops set up in Singapore and Malaysia started out selling quality pieces from easily accessible wholesale retailers in Thailand.

On the other end of the fashion spectrum,

Clearly, when it comes to shopping in Bangkok, fashion dominates, and not just in what’s trendy right now. It’s refreshing and exciting to know that local designers representing vastly different styles are gaining the international recognition they so deserve. But it is also thrilling to know that freedom of expression in Thailand doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. Bangkok isn’t just a shopper’s paradise anymore, it is a fashionista’s sanctuary.

IMAGES: FLICKR - MARK FISCHER, FLICKR - ADAM SELWOOD

considered a game of strategy that requires stamina to go through crowded markets, street smarts in haggling and a hound’s nose to sniff out the best bargains. Every corner you turn is bound to lead you to another shopping destination: a shopping mall for international brands here, a night market for thrifted finds and touristy souvenirs there.

As a shopper’s paradise, Bangkok is also fast becoming known as the fashion capital of Southeast Asia. When did Bangkok claim such a title? It’s hard to pinpoint a date and many will argue that other more urban cities

Bangkok also has a solid collection of luxury brands as well. Gleaming malls around the city centre carry international labels and fashion giants like Givenchy, DVF and Versace. The launch of the solely Thai version of fashion bible, VOGUE magazine, in 2013 also speaks volumes that Bangkok locals are taking what they wear seriously. This is most evident in the boom of Thai designers that have been rocking international runways and independent shows to rave reviews in recent years. And it’s not just Thai fashion designers that are receiving global press. Thai lifestyle product designers are constantly hogging headlines of “next big thing to look out for” with their innovative and practical award-winning creations.

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gaining the recognition they deserve that even public figures like, Kim Kardashian and even First Lady Michelle Obama have worn garments by homegrown Thai labels.

There are many places online, like Zalora, where labels by Thai fashion designers can be found. Many of these designers also sell direct to buyers through their online store. But if making a trip to Bangkok, there are thankfully, many places to find such coveted pieces by Thai designers before the rest of the world fights for them. Names that regularly pop up are Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, and Gaysorn. These three malls may be well known for the glamorous luxury brands they carry but they are also where many homegrown brands have set up shop within the city centre.

Siam Paragon carries some of the bigger names, such as family affair, Sretsis, dayto-night wear Asava, and avant-garde Flynow. Over at CentralWorld are the OGs of Thai luxury fashion, such as Kai, who mentored another Thai designer, Tawn Chatchavalvong, winner of VOGUE’s Who’s On Next competition. Disaya, who has dressed icons like Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez also holds residency at CentralWorld.

For higher-end names, Gaysorn is the mall to visit. In addition to some of the names previously mentioned, those who also own shops here are brands like Issue, whose designer, Roj Singhakul, has showcased his Oriental-inspired designs on America’s Next Top Model, and Phuket Mermaids, who provides luxury and higher quality swimwear to various pageants around the world.

But apart from fashion, Thai designers are also winning on the product front. Known as “lifestyle designing”, these designers are reinventing the things we use in our home, such as our furniture, lighting and other items that merge aesthetics with function.

Check out Thonglor and the neighbouring area for the showrooms of Thai designers.

Award-winning Deesawat, who creates anything from furniture to flooring, and eco-friendly home decoration boutique, Corner 43 Décor, both have concept rooms in the area for keen buyers to peruse. For a one-stop shop, try The Jam Factory located on “the other side” of the river. The former factory has been transformed to include an art gallery and restaurant but the front of the space sells a curation of products from Thai designers and international novels translated into Thai.

Designers’ Den When it comes to Thai fashion, tourists all over will point to wholesale malls and street markets as their go-to for quick and cheap fashion finds. But the fashion industry in Thailand, and Bangkok, especially, is seeing a shift in interest in what locals are able to present to the world on the luxury front.

International critics may be overlooking designers from Thailand for the more prominent names in other cosmopolitan cities, such as Singapore and Seoul, but there’s no denying that Thai designers are rapidly making their way up to the top.

Thai fashion designers have been critically acclaimed for their creativity and their ability to seamlessly integrate textures and a mishmash of prints together for different looks that are all a reflection of the different personalities that create these wearable works of art. Thai designers are slowly opposite page

Many Thai designers who first made international headlines now own their own spaces at CentralWorld

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Alongside luxury international brands are local Thai designers at Siam Paragon

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SRETSIS

PDM BRAND

When it comes to filling up your first home with items that are practical and reflect your personality, PDM Brand is a name to keep in mind. Originally a design consultancy, PDM Brand has now evolved into a design company focused on furniture and home textiles.

Doonyapol Srichan, the brand’s product designer and founder, named the company after the motto “Product Design Matters” and it is a philosophy that he incorporates into each and every one of his designs. Doonyapol works with his team, local and international craftsmen, manufacturers and other designers to create products that have a sense of longevity to them in terms of appearance, durability and function. This careful consideration on the impact of design has won PDM Brand accolades like Good Design Award, Design Excellence Award and Asia Talents.

There are several places to find PDM Brand in Thailand. Their main showroom is in Thonglor and they have concept stores in Central Embassy, Central World, EmQuartier and The Jam Factory as well. Check out catalogues on pdmbrand.com.

IMAGES: SRETSIS, PDM BRAND

Mention Thai fashion designers and Sretsis is bound to come up. One of the first few Thai brands to gain international recognition, the three-Sukhahuta sister (Sretsis is ‘sisters’ spelt backwards) company is a collective of fun haute couture garments and accessories.

Pim, the middle child, runs the fashion design aspect of it with her bold prints, vibrant patterns and use of unconventional textiles and experimental techniques. The accessory line, Matina Amanita, is run by the youngest sister, Matina, who is responsible for creating striking statement pieces with themes that often fall into the mythical. Eldest sister Kly runs Sretsis and Matina Amanita in the background, overseeing all marketing affairs.

The sisters have stated that their close working ethic means they can comfortably bounce ideas off each other to develop concepts.

With each successful collection, Sretsis offers peeks into their private lives to reveal their inspirations from the world that goes around them. Sretsis’ flagship store is at Central Embassy Bangkok, with two more stores in Bangkok and one more in Phuket. Certain items are also available at sretsissuper.com.

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IMAGES: FLICKR - WALTER LIM

Wholesale Worth

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Whatever style you

Quite possibly the best part about shopping in Bangkok is the access to wholesale retailers all over. Such retailers usually have connections to clothing factories and are able to bulk buy garments at heavily discounted prices. While the concept of wholesale retailers is to supply other shopping malls not just in Thailand but the rest of Asia as well, these shop owners have made bank selling clothing to fashion conscious tourists who walk through the door. The rule of thumb at such places is simple: the more pieces you buy, the better a bargain you’ll be able to get.

Wholesalers will encourage groups of friends to combine orders or get the same piece in various colours to help lower cost per piece.

Frequent travellers to Bangkok solely for cheap clothes will point you to the highly successful Platinum Fashion Mall as the first place to go to for fashion at bargain prices.

The mall comprises two buildings that are separated into three zones, totalling more than 2,000 stalls. Across the two buildings, fashionistas will be able to cover themselves head to toe many times over in different styles, ranging from preppy to hipster and even latex and costume fantasies, all complete with a full set of matching accessories, shoes and even make up. Experts who have combed through all 12 floors will know that an expedition to Platinum Fashion Mall will take at least a day to thoroughly go through the infinite racks of clothing here. Stop by the

wear, Platinum Fashion Mall has you covered – and at a bargain too!

Food Centre on the sixth floor or the massage and beauty parlours in the Basement of Building A to replenish and rejuvenate before continuing the scavenger hunt.

Platinum Fashion Mall can get crowded, especially over the weekend, but there are less crowded and equally as great malls to get your fashion fix. Geared towards a younger crowd, Union Mall sees much trendier options for teenagers and contemporary office wear.

The mall is much more frequented by local young adults so prices also fall within a range very affordable by such a demographic. If searching for a familiar international brand at low prices, try heading out to Bangkok Fashion Outlet, the first discount outlet in downtown Bangkok. More than 500 Thai and international brands are available here, including Marks & Spencer and Giordano with discounts of up to 90%.

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Market Mayhem No trip to Bangkok is really complete without at least visiting the many street markets. Found all over Bangkok, these markets sell just about anything, from clothes, to knockoff goods, to art and even antiques and vintage heirlooms.

The most famous of these are probably Chatuchak Weekend Market and Khao San Road. The first is considerably the world’s largest weekend market that covers an area of 27 acres that are divided into 27 sections, containing a total of 15,000 booths altogether.

Within Chatuchak Weekend Market are your usual finds of trendy fashions, and handmade souvenirs from all over Thailand. But beyond these are also lanes of leather goods with many shops offering personalisations on the spot, as well as shops selling Thai ceramics and pottery, hand-spun by the shop owners themselves. Hidden somewhere in the middle is also an art gallery where artists stationed there paint gorgeous landscapes of Thailand’s most beautiful countryside, as well as portraits of monks and young Thai women in traditional dress.

Khao San Road is inarguably the original backpackers’ haunt of the world. Other than being packed with bars and pubs with go-go dancers, the 1km-stretch also has an eclectic mix of shops, including a bookshop filled

with dog-eared Lonely Planet guides, stalls selling bikinis and sarongs, and even shops offering illegal music and movie downloads and even fake ID making. For those tired of the throngs of tourists that descend onto Khao San Road, the neighbouring Soi Rambuttri will be worth a visit. There are more wine and dine options here, as well as massage parlours but the real gems are the Muay Thai gym that accepts walk-ins for training, and the second-hand shops that buy and sell unwanted appliances, guitars and whatever the shop owners can get their hands on from backpackers looking to offload excess baggage.

Don’t limit your visits to Bangkok’s markets to these two, however. There are so many more to check out, such as Siam Square and Artbox, which are popular with youths for their stalls that sell hipster-esque accessories and provides live music through the night, and the Yaowarat/Chinatown area that has Thieves Market, the place to go to

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Every trip to Chatuchak Weekend Market brings a new surprise as to what can be found!

Soi Rambuttri is less crowded and offers a variety of trinkets for sale

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The original backpackers’ road is filled with souvenirs for tourists

True vintages can be found at Talad Rod Fai Market

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HAGGLE HUSTLE

Apart from most shopping malls and foreign brands in Bangkok, bargaining is allowed and even expected by many proprietors. While there is no hard and fast rule to bargaining, here are some tips we can offer to secure you a better price when shopping Bangkok: 1. Ask for much lower than you’re willing to pay – In this game of back and forth, offering a much lower price will prompt the seller to offer a slightly higher one till an agreement can be reached. It is very unlikely that a seller will accept the first price you list.

2. Do not show interest – Flit from shop to shop to show sellers that you’re here purely for window-shopping rather than for a specific purpose. If interested in an item, offer your price but if the seller isn’t offering anything close to how much you’re willing to pay, back away and move on. Chances are, sellers are more interested in the sale and will offer back a much lower price.

IMAGES: FLICKR - EDWIN LEE, JUSTIN VIDAMO, MARIA GABRIELA

LUCERO, JONATHAN LIM

pick up contraband DVDs, fake luxury goods and knock-off electronics (at your own risk, of course).

If atmosphere is what you’re after, check out JJ Green Night Market, a daily market situated just behind the Chatuchak Weekend Market that is known for its selection of genuine vintage collectibles from various eras. JJ Green Night Market adds to the night scene with the watering holes situated within the market. Sip on chilled, cheap beer and cocktails as you spend the night offering your best bargains. More antiques, including furniture from around Southeast Asia can also be found at Talad Rod Fai Market (Train Market). This market is a favourite among collectors of memorabilia like old Coca-Cola bottles and vintage car models. Asiatique Riverfront is also a great place to hang around for those who like breaks in between shopping sprees. The night bazaar next to the river has nightly shows, such as cabaret and Thai puppet performances.

3. Do not back out of a bargain – More often than not, sellers might ask for you to name a price before you can ask ‘how much?’ If not interested in whatever they’re selling, it’s best to keep your mouth shut instead of saying anything (even if offering a ridiculously low price to get rid of touts) as once the seller agrees to it, it is considered incredibly rude and it will be hard to leave without being cursed at.

4. Speak local – It always helps to speak Thai to proprietors as they could be offering two prices – one for locals and one for tourists. Learn key phrases or shop with a local friend!

5. Do not be stingy – Do not be stubborn about getting a certain price if what they’re offering is close to what you’re willing to pay. Remember that 10 Baht is only worth a couple of cents to you but is enough to pay for a whole meal for them.

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