The Blue Train | January 2012

www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Complimentary Guest Magazine

January 2012

In dian P a lac e s • T h o r o u g h br e d s • E a s t e r n C ape

contents Hanlie Kotze Letter from the Executive Manager

Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Letter from the Editor

From the Mailbag Passenger Letters and Comments

NEWS Keeping You Informed

EVENTS Dates To Diarise

BITS Need To Know

TIME-TRAVELLING Gauteng’s Historic Attractions

EQUINE ELITE The Thoroughbred

READY, SET, GO! Sporty Pietermaritzburg

FASHION FORWARD Proudly South African Designers

EARTH FRIENDLY POVERTY ALLEVIATION Khumbulani Craft

6

|

The Blue Train

08 10 22 12 34 14 16 18 22 38 26 30 34 38

26

contents

AN ISLAND EXPERIENCE Indigo Bay Island Resort &Spa

IN A MAHARANI’S FOOTSTEPS Staying in the Land of the Kings

SUMMER STYLE Add a Little Sparkle to the Season

SURF AND TURF The Eastern Cape

EARNING YOUR STARS AND STRIPES The Ins and Outs of Tourism Grading

THE ‘GORGASM’ GOURMET Chef Richard Poynton

HIGHWAY TO THE DANGER ZONE The RCZ Peugeot Sport

IN THE TRACKS OF A LEGEND The History of The Blue Train

SUITE LAYOUT Coach Info

8

|

The Blue Train

40 48

40 44 48 50 54

44 50

56 60 62 64

56

Letter from the Executive Manager Hanlie Kotze

Welcome back!

A very warm welcome back to all of our employees, valued guests, colleagues and strategic partners in 2012.

Economists are predicting yet another global economic downturn ahead and be that as it may, I am choosing to embrace this year as a year of “Hope”.

The Free Encyclopaedia describes hope as the emotional state which promotes the belief in a positive outcome related to events and circumstances in one’s life. It is the feeling that what is wanted or desired can be obtained or that events will turn out for the best… Oh yes, they will! That is my approach for the year and I am sticking to it!

With more than seven billion people in the world, my wish, however far-fetched it may be, would be for at least a quarter of the world’s population to embrace this hope as they tackle their everyday challenges. The world, as they say, will always whisper in one ear and say: “Give up.” While hope whispers in the other one and says: “Try it one more time.”

It’s a New Year, and it brings with it new beginnings, renewed hope and ideas and a whole host of blessings. Let’s embrace it!

Happy New Year!

Warm regards,

Hanlie

10

|

The Blue Train

Letter from the Editor Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu

It’s that time of the year again, when we look forward to the start of a new year and a new chapter in our lives. The year is as yet still full of wonderful possibilities; still unblemished by mistakes and regrets and still enticing in its promise of good things to come.

It is little wonder then that with the start of a new year comes the inevitable desire to “start fresh”, turn over a new leaf and wipe the slate clean. We are so desperate to start again that we forget to take time to look back at the years that have passed and appreciate them for the blessings and life experiences they too have given us.

How dull would the book of our lives be, if every year the previous chapters were ripped out and we had to start again? While a fresh, new page is always enticing, without a back story what comes next is never as meaningful. Many of us like to wash our hands clean of the previous year as soon as the clock strikes midnight on 31st December but even an annus horribilis (as the Queen would say) that we would far sooner forget than relive has its part to play in shaping us into the people we are today.

Adversity and hardship breed strength and character, overcoming obstacles builds confidence and with age comes wisdom and perspective.

One of the hallmarks of growing older is the maturity to view the events in our lives – whether they are positive or negative – as equally important in determining the ever changing direction of our own personal stories.

One of my favourite quotes comes from American author Clarence Day who said: “Age should not have its face lifted, but it should rather teach the world to admire wrinkles as the etchings of experience and the firm line of character.” Just as you should not wish your wrinkles away, so too should you not wish away your years or your past experiences. By all means, start the year afresh, but do so empowered and emboldened by what you learnt from last year – it can only stand you in much better stead to write an even better and more fulfilled chapter this year.

Happy New Year!

Noeleen

editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za Pretoria, Gauteng Tel: +27 12 334 8459 Fax: +27 12 334 8464 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 449 2672 Fax: +27 21 449 3338 United Kingdom Tel: +44 1403 243619 Fax: +44 1403 217558 Central Europe Tel: +44 2089 245126 Fax: +44 2089 245126 United States Tel: 001 305 864 4569 Fax: 001 305 675 7693

EDITOR Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

PUBLISHER Deidre Theron-Loots deidre@africanspiritmedia.co.za African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG (843 624) Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@africanspiritmedia.co.za

Cover Image © iStockphoto.com

12

|

The Blue Train

MANAGING EDITOR Nicky Furniss nicky@tcbgroup.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Estelle van der Westhuizen +27 84 821 7257 estellevdw@tcbgroup.co.za Nikki de Lange +27 83 415 0339 nikki@tcbgroup.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha +27 83 629 8818 IMAGES © iStockphoto.com

DESIGN & LAYOUT Joanne Mc Laren joanne@virtualdavinci.co.za Virtual Da Vinci Creative Room

PRINTING Business Print Centre, Pretoria CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Richard Holmes, Bronwyn Burns, Nicola Weir, David Batzofin, Nicky Furniss, Bernard K Hellberg, Christel Jordaan/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Jacqueline Cochrane.

The Blue Train Magazine is published monthly by African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd. Opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd, The Blue Train or any of their clients.

Information has been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. No responsibility can be accepted for errors and omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in this publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without specific written permission from the Publisher.

Copyright © 2012. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd and/or the individual contributors.

All rights reserved.

From the Mail Bag

Passenger Letters & Comments

It was an outstanding experience, which we will do again.

Mr KB Spence, South Africa

We had an excellent trip and excellent service. Next time we would like to travel on The Blue Train to Durban.

Dr T Govender, Canada

What a wonderful trip! We will definitely do it again!

Dr L Joubert, South Africa

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and will return again. I will also definitely recommend it to my friends and family.

Mr T Irani, USA

We thoroughly enjoyed The Blue Train experience and cannot wait to return.

Mrs D Lomas, South Africa

It was a wonderful experience and I hope to do it again someday. The staff were very friendly and helpful.

Mrs G Ough, UK

Our butler Simon and the lounge waiters, Choice and Colleen, were very friendly and helpful. Thank you to everyone – we had an awesome time and will definitely do this again.

Mrs LD Narayanan, South Africa

Do you have a complaint or comment that you would like to share with us?

Please fill in the guest questionnaire that is available in your suite or alternatively send an email to info@bluetrain.co.za.

Comments may be edited, shortened or translated from the original language.

14

|

The Blue Train

news The Blue Train is now a Heart Save Area Several Blue Train staff recently completed a Heart Saver CPR/AED Course and are now proficient in the necessary knowledge and practical skills to recognise life threatening cardio-pulmonary emergencies on board. This will enable them to respond swiftly and effectively in the event of an emergency.

The staff will be aided by the Samaritan Pad 500P with CPR Advisor, which is a small, portable and easy to use device, which helps to restore a pulse in most heart attack victims. It also aids rescuers by giving precise visual and voice instructions on how to use the device and how to administer effective CPR.

Promoting Excellence The Blue Train Magazine was gratified to receive two awards recently at the 2011 SA Publication Forum Awards, which recognise excellence in the custom publishing field. Publications that receive a score of 75% or above in a particular category are awarded certificates of excellence, and The Blue Train Magazine received certificates of excellence for both Design and Writing.

This serves as a wonderful vote of confidence for the magazine and its team who will continue to strive to improve the publication even further.

Africa’s Best The Blue Train proved once again why it is called ‘The window to the soul of South Africa’ when it won the highly contested 2010 Africa’s Leading Luxury Train award during the World Travel Awards Africa and Indian Ocean Gala Ceremony held at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.

Since their inception 17 years ago, The World Travel Awards – known as the “Oscars of the Travel Industry” – have become an important measure of excellence in the travel and tourism industry. These prestigious awards aim to stimulate innovation and creativity in the industry; to ensure that travellers receive exceptional value, and to acknowledge the organisations that contribute significantly to the industry.

The Blue Train, which combines the luxury of the world’s leading hotels with the charm of train travel, out-shone its competitors and claimed its well deserved first spot. It has built an incredible legacy and has now won this award for two consecutive years. It also won The World’s Leading Luxury Train award in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 and again in 2009.

The Blue Train Wins Again The Blue Train has proven once more why it is considered the world’s best luxury train by walking away with yet another

16

|

The Blue Train

prestigious international award. At the Condé Nast 12th Annual Readers’ Travel Awards held in London in September 2010, The Blue Train was voted as the “Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Favourite Specialist Train”.

The runner-up in the “Specialist Train” category was the Venice Simplon-Orient Express. Other nominations included The Ghan in Australia, the Palace on Wheels in India and The Royal Scotsman.

The Blue Train was the only South African company to win one of the 27 categories – although South Africa did come in ninth in the “Favourite Holiday Destination” category.

“To say that we are delighted with this award would be an understatement! To be nominated alone is such a great achievement, but to win your specific category is enormous!

Credit must go to everyone associated with this brand – our employees, representatives, all our strategic partners and suppliers for their effortless passion and commitment to this “Blue Jewel”. Together, through hard work and dedication, we can achieve much more,” commented Hanlie Kotze, Executive Manager of The Blue Train.

She added: “With a long-standing reputation of South African hospitality, The Blue Train symbolises the very core of luxury train travel. It is exquisitely crafted and appointed to achieve a degree of unequalled luxury to satisfy not only the senses of every guest, but to also touch their souls. This is the very essence of why we are known as a window to the soul of South Africa.”

Business “Unusual” Charters A special tailor-made, all-inclusive charter on The Blue Train is a wonderful way for guests to explore South Africa’s landscapes and landmarks, lasting from a few hours to several nights. From a VIP cocktail breakfast, lunch or dinner, to a business “unusual” conference, a product launch with a difference, a special wedding reception, staff incentives or even a birthday celebration, the experience is up to you.

The Blue Train follows any route, provided the rail networks are compatible to its technology.

For Further Information For more information on The Blue Train’s exciting packages and to read the booking conditions for advance reservations, visit www.bluetrain.co.za or contact The Blue Train reservation office in Pretoria on +27 12 334 8459 or Cape Town on +27 21 449 2672. Email any general enquiries or feedback to info@bluetrain.co.za. n

“For a different experience” Indigo Helicopters is situated in Indigo Private Game Lodge near Ellisras, and offers the following: • Helicopter Pilot Training (CAA/0348) • Ratings / Conversions • CAA Online Testing Centre • Game Capture • Game Darting • Game Counting

• • • • • • •

Special Occasions Accommodation Self-catering “Braai” Facilities Bar Wildlife Game Drives...

Quad Fun

Gerhard - 082 927 4031 email: gerhard@indigohelicopters.co.za Ve r o e s c h k a – 0 8 3 2 7 6 1 4 2 3 email: veroeschka@indigohelicopters.co.za Landline: 014-766 0901 | Fax: 086 528 4234 | w w w. i n d i go h e l i c o p t e r s . c o. z a

events The Magic of Mozart The fourth Johannesburg International Mozart Festival (JIMF) will take place from 27th January to 19th February 2012 in Johannesburg. Since its inception, the JIMF has developed into a well-loved annual classical music event, with popular conductor Richard Cock at the helm as Music Director, together with concert pianist Florian Uhlig as Artistic Director. The composer-in-residence for the 2012 Festival is Cape Town born pianist and composer, Paul Hanmer. Highlights on the 2012 programme of performances include distinguished young South African artists such as Shannon Mowday and Quattro Fusion, as well as a number of international artists including pianist Cristina Ortiz and conductor Kristjan Järvi.

Tickets for concerts at the Linder Auditorium and the University of Johannesburg Theatre will be available through Computicket. For other venues, please contact +27 11 447 9264. For more information, visit www.join-mozart-festival.org.

Singing in the Park The popular Old Mutual Summer Sunset Concerts are once again set to rock Cape Town’s Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, with an exciting line-up of acts right through until the beginning of April. The Graeme Watkins Project and Plush are set to make an appearance on 8th January while Johnny Clegg is sure to pack in the crowds on 15th January.

Folk and blues are the theme of the day on 22nd January when Dan Patlansky and Natasha Meister bring their acoustic sounds and superb vocals to the party, while Flash Republic and Foto Na Dans are due to rock the gardens on 5th February. The Old Mutual Summer Sunset Concerts take place on Sundays from 17h00 to 19h00. For more information, contact +27 21 799 8783/8620 or visit www.sanbi.org or www.oldmutual.co.za/ music. Tickets are available from www.webtickets.co.za.

Dress for a Photo Finish The elite of South African horseracing will gather for the 151st running of the L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate at Kenilworth on 7th January, in a celebration of art, passion and equestrian excellence. The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate has distinguished itself as the most prestigious weight-for-age race in South Africa. In January, it will again bring together the best thoroughbreds in the country against an august backdrop of blue and white on a day of fine dining and world class entertainment. The Best Dressed and Best Hat competition will be judged by some of South Africa’s leaders in the fashion industry while the popular Style Lounge promises culinary delights and fine wine. There will also be a selection of vintage cars on display, courtesy of the Franschhoek Motor Museum. Tickets are available from www.webtickets.co.za. Visit www.lqp.co.za for more information.

18

|

The Blue Train

events Raising AIDS Awareness Through Art The A.R.T. Show, an exhibition, looks at the current HIV/AIDS situation (where theoretically there is widespread availability of treatment) and asks the question: how is this reality affecting the lives of individuals and the social structure of our society? This exhibition represents a variety of artworks examining both the triumphs and trials of this new phase in the AIDS epidemic. The exhibition features a range of artists including William Kentridge (South Africa), Sara Anjargolian (Armenia), Daniel Goldstein (USA) and Gideon Mendel (UK). Several collectives have also been commissioned to make work for the show. These include the Keiskamma Art Project, the Woza Moya Collective and the Siyazama Project.

The exhibition will run at the Tatham Art Gallery in Pietermaritzburg until the end of January and then at the KZNSA Gallery in Durban until March. For more information, contact +27 83 778 1192 or email cbrown.durban@gmail.com.

Cape Concerts The Solms-Delta and Die Burger Summer Concert Series, a season of outdoor live concerts set in the beautiful Franschhoek Winelands, will bring together a feast of rural Cape food, music and dance each Saturday evening from 14th January to 10th March 2012. Enjoy a glass of Solms-Delta wine, and a hearty Cape braai (barbeque) buffet and listen to local favourites Lekker Lekker Delta and the Delta Valley Entertainers perform alongside Hannes Coetzee, Les Javan, Hot Water, Tribal Echo and Pieter van der Westhuizen. The concerts run from 19h00 to 21h30 every Saturday evening. Contact +27 21 874 3937 or email restaurant@solms-delta.co.za for bookings. Visit www.solms-delta.co.za for more information.

Cars for Connoisseurs On 21st and 22nd January, the International Police Association will celebrate the 12th Annual Classic Car & Bike Show in Cape Town.

Established as a fundraiser, the show features some of the rarest and most beautiful cars and bikes in the Cape. The first day of the exhibition will consist of vehicles which can be defined as ‘Modern Classics’. These include Hot Rods, Street Rods, souped up vehicles, racing cars and bikes, custom vehicles and motorcycles. The second day of the exhibition will showcase vehicles dating from as far back as the late 1890s – classics that invoke an era of elegance, from a time when craftsmanship was an important element of vehicle design and manufacture. As well as a host of beautiful cars and bikes, visitors can also look forward to food stalls, kids’ entertainment and a beer garden. For more information, contact +27 82 518 3932, email timour@mweb.co.za or visit www.classiccarandbikeshow.co.za.

February 2012

|

19

bits Cape Town Cruising City Sightseeing Cape Town, the company that operates the Mother City’s iconic red open-top, double-decker buses, has recently launched a unique “Hop on Hop off” canal cruise at the V&A Waterfront. The cruise offers visitors the chance to experience the waterfront from a completely different angle. It includes a trip through South Africa’s only lock before stopping at the One and Only, the City Lodge and the Harbour Bridge before arriving at the Westin and Cape Town International Convention Centre. From this stop, visitors can opt to hop onto one of the City Sightseeing buses to visit a variety of exciting Cape Town attractions including Table Mountain and the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. The City Sightseeing canal cruise starts at Jetty 1, outside the Two Oceans Aquarium at the V&A Waterfront. Contact +27 21 511 6000 or visit www.citysightseeing.co.za for bookings and more information.

In the Blue Johnnie Walker has recently unveiled a new look for its luxury Johnnie Walker Blue Label bottle which celebrates the original 19th century bottle with its iconic square shape, blue glass and thick base.

Johnnie Walker Blue Label is a commemoration of Alexander Walker’s remarkable Old Highland Whisky of 1867 and demonstrates the same rare commitment to flavour and craftsmanship. It is an extraordinary Scotch whisky crafted for those with discerning taste. To celebrate its launch and to commemorate the beginnings of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, the first 1,867 numbered bottles will be personally delivered to individuals around the world who have made extraordinary accomplishments – those who have created something extraordinary which has made a positive impact and left a lasting impression. The new Johnnie Walker Blue Label bottles are available from leading liquor outlets countrywide and retail for R1,990 per bottle.

A Glittery Day Out The Cape Town Diamond Museum, located in the newly upgraded Waterfront Clock Tower precinct, is the only museum of its kind in Cape Town and the first to pay homage to the extraordinary story of the South African diamond industry. The museum experience has been designed to ensure that visitors feel the excitement and mystery surrounding these beautiful gems and learn more about one of South Africa’s greatest exports. Since diamonds were first discovered in South Africa in 1867, the country has produced some of the world’s largest, most valuable and most memorable stones, including the Cullinan, the Hope and the Taylor Burton. Visitors can see exact replicas of the world’s most famous diamonds and delve deeper into the amazing story of the South African diamond rush. The Cape Town Diamond Museum is open seven days a week, from 09h00 to 21h00. Contact +27 21 421 2488 or visit www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org for more information.

20

|

The Blue Train

bits Sugar and Sparkle Bring on summer with a tantalising sensory experience at The House of JC Le Roux, open seven days a week for cellar tours, tastings and hearty, countrystyle breakfasts and lunches. By carefully pairing their Méthode Cap Classique and sparkling wines with a selection of tempting sweet treats, South Africa’s leading home of sparkling wine offers sheer indulgence on spectacular summer days in the heart of the Stellenbosch Winelands. Famous for its nougat tasting, the House of JC Le Roux also offers a selection of mouth-watering meringues and marshmallows to pair with five exquisite JC Le Roux Cap Classique and sparkling wines for just R50. The House of JC Le Roux is famous for making fine vintage Méthode Cap Classique and sparkling wines using the timehonoured French tradition of bottle fermentation. Contact +27 21 865 8200 for bookings, or visit www.jcleroux.co.za for more information.

Retail Royalty From Accessorize to Zara – and everything in between – Johannesburg’s Sandton City now brings shoppers even more of the globe’s most soughtafter retailers. Already established as South Africa’s most desirable shopping destination, Sandton City has increased its total retail diversity to a 331 shops, with the introduction of 70 new retailers, which are showcased in a fully revamped shopper-friendly setting. Sandton City’s extension is set under a dramatic 24-metre high steel roof structure inspired by South Africa’s national flower, the Protea. The entire centre has undergone an exciting refurbishment, which includes incorporating abundant natural light and using modern finishes to bring it into the future of shopping. It has also been redesigned to improve customer flow by connecting the entire mall, by means of a ‘loop’ – making shopping here even more convenient. For more information, visit www.sandtoncity.com.

The Who, What, Where of Wine With the tally of South African wines now in the thousands, the comprehensive Platter’s Wine Guide 2012 serves as the wine lover’s indispensable guide through the maze of available brands. The 32nd edition features more than 900 South African wine producers, merchants and brands (including 58 new ones), and over 7,000 locally produced wines. The guide’s wine descriptions and star ratings, compiled in association with a team of leading wine experts, make it easy to find the right wine for any occasion, while the good-value indicators highlight those bottlings which are especially budget friendly across all quality levels. Platter’s 2012 also packs in extensive information on where to go and what to do in South Africa’s wine country. Platter’s 2012 print version is available from www.kalahari.com and selected retailers countrywide. The web-based version is available from www.wineonaplatter.com.

February 2012

|

21

Travel The Voortrekker Monument boasts some wonderful sculptures and basreliefs of Afrikaner history, as well as spectacular views over Pretoria

Time-Travelling in

Gauteng

It was the glitter of gold that gave birth to Johannesburg and neighbouring Pretoria, but even though they are two of South Africa’s youngest cities, there is a rich heritage to discover in the heart of the continent’s economic powerhouse.

Text: Richard Holmes Images: © The Voortrekker Monument, Satyagraha House, Maropeng

24

|

The Blue Train

Visitors to Maropeng can expect exciting visual displays on the birth of mankind, and South Africa’s role in our evolution

Maropeng and the Sterkfontein Caves It is always good to start at the beginning, and you do not get much further back in time than the area known as the ‘Cradle of Humankind’, on the outskirts of Johannesburg.

Home to our ancestors for over three million years, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the world’s palaeontology hotspots and has produced nearly half of all the human fossils ever discovered!

The best place to learn about this ancient history is at the Sterkfontein Caves, where a state-of-the-art visitor’s centre will introduce you to the lady affectionately known as ‘Mrs Ples’. The landmark skull of Plesianthropus Transvaalensis was unearthed nearby, along with over 500 hominid fossils and 9,000 stone tools dating back 3.5 million years!

Not far off, Maropeng – which means ‘returning to the place of origin’ in the seTswana language – is a more interactive centre that is ideal for children and the young at heart.

Here, exciting visual displays such as ‘Birth of the Cradle’ explain how the Sterkfontein Caves were formed, while ‘The Path to Humanity’ manages to compress four billion years of human development – from prehistoric Australopithecus to Homo Sapien – into a digestible ’12 hours’ of history.

If your appetite for the ancient is not sated by a day out of town, then head for the James Kitching Gallery on the east campus of Wits University. This small palaeontology museum is crammed with fossils from across Africa, and has several near-complete skeletons on display. Another highlight is a model of the Taung skull, which was the first Australopithecus skeleton to be discovered in South Africa, in 1924.

For more information on Maropeng, visit www.maropeng.co.za. Visit www.cradleofhumankind.co.za to learn more about the Cradle of Humankind.

Satyagraha House While Mohandas “Mahatma” Gandhi may have become most famous for his role in Indian independence, he spent 21

Travel

The Processional Way takes visitors on a journey from the beginning of the universe to modern day, as they approach the Tumulus, at the Maropeng Visitor Centre

of his formative years in South Africa, and the Johannesburg house he called home has recently been transformed into a guesthouse and museum to the life of the man who embodied passive resistance.

Gandhi’s time in South Africa, his philosophy of peaceful protest, and his later life abroad, are all explored in this fascinating small museum. And it is a homage that shines through in the museum’s very name. ‘Satyagraha’ was a concept translated by Gandhi as “The force which is born of truth and love for nonviolence.”

Free tours of Satyagraha House are available, with or without lunch, from 08h00 to 17h00 every day. Visit www.satyagrahahouse.com or contact +27 11 485 5928 for more information.

The Apartheid Museum “To be free is not merely to cast off one’s chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others.”

Stretched across metres of bleak concrete wall, this quote from former president Nelson Mandela greets visitors to the

January 2012

|

25

Travel

Mohandas Gandhi once called Satyagraha House home and now it houses a fascinating museum dedicated to his life

Apartheid Museum in southern Johannesburg, and embodies much of what this world-class attraction is all about.

In stark contrast to the colourful Gold Reef City theme park across the parking lot, the somewhat forbidding Apartheid Museum is one of Johannesburg’s must-see museums, and takes the visitor on a heart-warming, bleak, uplifting, shocking, and thought-provoking journey through the years that defined so much of modern day South Africa.

From the separate museum entrances for whites and non-whites, to heart-wrenching photography exhibitions and meditative gardens, it is a superb museum that will help you explore and understand the system of Apartheid; as well as the people that lived with it, and were oppressed by it.

Contact +27 11 309 4700 or visit www.apartheidmuseum.org for more information.

Constitution Hill and The Old Fort For the dark decades of Apartheid, much of South Africa’s political system was hidden behind a veil of secrecy and misinformation, so it is perhaps appropriate that the building that today houses the country’s Constitutional Court – the highest court in the land – is awash with glass, transparency and light.

Built within the precinct of Johannesburg’s Old Fort, which dates from 1892, the highlight of a visit to Constitution Hill – fast becoming one of the country’s premier tourist attractions – is a visit to the court, where green-robed justices have the final say on all matters legal and constitutional.

The modern architecture is markedly different to the section of the Old Fort, which can still be visited on regular tours. During Apartheid, this was one of the country’s most feared prisons, and notable areas to be seen include the Awaiting Trial block in Number Four section, where Nelson

26

|

The Blue Train

Mandela and 155 other prisoners were kept before the landmark Rivonia treason trial in 1956.

For more information, visit www.constitutionhill.org.za or contact +27 11 381 3100.

Freedom Park and the Voortrekker Monument It is hard to miss the imposing Voortrekker Monument, built on a hill overlooking South Africa’s capital city. The dramatic square building commemorates the Battle of Blood River in 1838, as well as the arduous journey of Afrikaans farmers who ‘trekked’ their wagons away from English colonialism in the Cape.

While there are wonderful sculptures and bas-reliefs of Afrikaner history to admire, the site is as much worth a visit for the panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside.

It also offers a picnic area as well as horse riding, hiking and mountain bike trails.

On a nearby hill, Freedom Park is a more recent addition. This “monument to democracy” aims to honour and commemorate those who died in the many battles for freedom that have taken place on South African soil. Freedom Hill stretches out over 52 hectares and is focused around an expansive garden with waterfalls, rock monuments and installations. The highlight is the 697-metre Wall of Names that remembers those who paid the ultimate price for the country’s freedom. A road linking Freedom Park to the Voortrekker Monument was opened on 16th December last year by President Jacob Zuma.

It is a modern, multi-faceted space where the emphasis is on reflection and remembering, rather than soaking up facts and figures. It is well worth a visit if you have a few hours to spare.

Tours take place at Freedom Park, daily at 09h00, 12h00 and 15h00. For more information, visit www.freedompark.co.za. n

Feature

28

|

The Blue Train

Feature

EquineElite The Thoroughbred

Horse racing in South Africa is a multimillion rand industry that attracts the world’s wealthiest investors; sees South African-bred sprinters travelling the globe on their own passports in pursuit of victory, and provides a playground not only for society’s elite, but also for the masses who gamble on the thrill of the win. And it all begins with the finest of all horses: the Thoroughbred. Known for its agility, speed and spirit, the Thoroughbred is pure power and capable of unrivalled speed and fluid motion on the race track.

Text: Bronwyn Burns Images © iStockphoto.com & Gold Circle

A History of Horse Racing The sport has an elaborate history that extends across the continents and back through the centuries, from the ancient times of the nomadic tribesmen in Central Asia who first domesticated these lithe beasts, to the Greek Olympics with its daring chariot races, and to the 12th century when English knights returned from the Crusades with swift Arabian horses.

The origins of modern horse racing, however, flourished as the diversion of royalty and nobility in England during the 17th century. As horse racing became all the rage, so too did the need for breeding the ultimate horse.

The Thoroughbred racehorses seen on the track today trace their bloodline back to just three Middle Eastern stallions: Byerley Turk, Darley Arabian and Godolphin Arabian. They were all imported to England between 1670 and 1710, and named after each of their owners.

Based on pedigree and performance, the modern Thoroughbred has been sculpted by skilled breeders for 300 years since the importation of these three founding sires. Every registered Thoroughbred today can be traced by male descent back to the three original champions and the integrity of the breed’s records is the key to the success of such a selective bloodline.

The descendants of these sires have been selectively bred and crossbred for one purpose: to produce the fastest horse on the racecourse. The result is a superlative horse that can carry weight with sustained speed over extended distances.

Both swift and strong, the Thoroughbred is known for its wide girth (which results in a large lung capacity), elongated and sloped shoulders for a greater stride and long muscular legs which allow it to quickly gain ground. While purebred Arabian horses have certainly played an integral role in the development of the Thoroughbred, they have since become no match for the speedy breed they helped to produce.

January 2012

|

29

Feature

Renowned South African trainer, Mike de Kock, celebrates as his horse, Gold Silvano, wins the 2010 Vodacom Durban July

South African Steeds South Africa was rather late in making its mark in the international racing world, when a South African-bred sprinter (Camp Fire II) won the Royal Ascot’s King’s Stand Stakes in 1907.

We then fast forward through a rather uneventful history to the late 1990s when the real action was kick-started by the mercurial Mike de Kock, South Africa’s legendary trainer extraordinaire, whose Horse Chestnut won the inaugural SA Triple Crown in 1999 at Turffontein.

It takes an exceptional horse to take all three legs over the eight week top-level series and Horse Chestnut became the first and only horse to have succeeded in doing so. He is a true champion of speed, stamina and courage who captured the spotlight as the greatest Thoroughbred in South Africa’s racing books to date.

Horse Chestnut won nine out of ten starts and gave de Kock his first international triumph with a Group 3 Broward Handicap win in Florida, USA. Once retired, the horse went on to sire several Group winners in the US, and was brought back to South Africa in 2009. De Kock’s feats encouraged other South African racing pros to venture abroad with their top horses. Mike Azzie took National Currency to Dubai for a win and to Hong Kong for a Group 1 place. Sean Tarry finished second in the 2008 Group 1 Nunthorpe Stakes with National Colour. David Ferraris and Tony Millard have had regular success with South African value buys in Hong Kong.

Strides Ahead Saddling five horses in last year’s final field at the Durban July, Mike de Kock is arguably South Africa’s most notable Thoroughbred trainer. His accolades extend far beyond our borders, and De Kock’s reputation is equally recognised on the international track with racing triumphs in Dubai, England, Hong Kong and the US to mention but a few. In the first half of 2010

30

|

The Blue Train

alone, de Kock had 11 Group 1 wins, which topped every other trainer across the globe.

“To me, Thoroughbred racing is the equine equivalent of F1 – the speed and thrill of winning is what attracts people to it. On top of that, people are naturally drawn towards horses,” explains de Kock. “I love the animals and gain immense satisfaction and a sense of achievement when selecting a yearling, training it to win a big race and then once they have retired from the track, being able to follow their careers in the breeding shed.”

While de Kock talks of speed as the greatest distinguishing factor of Thoroughbreds, he adds, “We look at pedigree and conformation when we buy yearlings, however, this is no guarantee of ability. The proof of the pudding is in the racing and predicting performance is by no means an exact science.

It is based more on a best guess instinct with the underlying insight, knowledge and experience gained during many years in the industry.”

Being able to recognise good conformation stems from an appreciation of what the body is required to do. Four nimble legs must carry between 450 and 550 kg of body weight over extended distances, travelling at speeds of up to 60 km per hour, yet they must still have the strength and flexibility to respond to the jockeys call for changes in direction or pace.

Yet above all of these superior physical attributes, there is no way to measure the most significant qualities of a true champion Thoroughbred: its courage, determination and will. As a true racing machine, this spirited horse is always alert, often nervous and easily excitable.

All in the Business Of course, all of this fuss and attention lavished on one breed of horse lends itself to a hefty price tag. “The top price paid for a yearling in South Africa is R4 million, with the average price at our premier sale in the region of R300,000. You would probably need

Feature

R200,000 to R1 million to give yourself enough pedigree to have a good shot at buying a top class horse,” explains de Kock. “That said, there are probably only about 20 horses a year that would be described as top class, so finding one of those 20 is not easy!”

If you are fortunate enough to afford one such top seller, the investment may be high risk but it could well yield a handsome earning. “We bought Ilha Da Vitória in Brazil as a yearling for around $25,000. She won ten races, including two Grade 1 events, and ran second ten times in 26 career starts.”

In the process, she earned over R5 million in stakes. So far she has produced two foals to race: Ilha Grande has won twice, including a listed race, while her second foal Ilha Bella won her first start in June last year. De Kock bought her third foal for R1 million at the National Yearling Sale in April for Sheikh Hamdan Al Maktoum of Dubai.

The young Thoroughbred begins training as a yearling, and with such a price already on its head, much goes into preparing it for the racecourse. The horse learns to accept a saddle and bridle, a rider on its back and ultimately to break from a starting gate and sprint around a track.

“I suppose you could say the training starts as foals when they become used to being handled. Normally they would go into a training or pre-training establishment at about 18 months and begin exercising. As to when they are ready to race depends largely on genetics, however, a rule of thumb would be about six months to get them race ready,” says de Kock.

Thoroughbreds that prove their worth typically race between the ages of two and five years, yet the average life span of the breed is somewhere between 25 to 35 years, depending on the nutrition and health care they are given. “Genetics and injuries are the biggest influences on the length of a horse’s career, with injuries and illness being major stumbling blocks,” he adds.

Given that inbreeding is such a big part of the thoroughbred, both brilliance and faults are often exaggerated.

Once they retire from the big stakes, these agile and feisty

racers are retrained for show jumping, dressage or as family riding horses. The larger horses are sought after for hunter/ jumper and dressage competitions, whereas the smaller horses are in demand as polo ponies.

Continuing the Bloodline Many fillies will be retired to stud but this in itself is a highly regulated industry to ensure the integrity of the breed. Unlike most other registered breeds today, a horse cannot be registered as a Thoroughbred unless it was conceived by “live cover”, which requires a witnessed natural mating of a mare and a stallion.

Artificial insemination and embryo transfer, though commonly used and allowable in many other registries, cannot be used with Thoroughbreds.

The breeding process is the first step to producing superiority and excellence on the race track. Breeding the best stallions to the best mares is based on the horse’s proof of ancestry.

Passports are essential for the integrity of racing and given the importance placed on pedigrees and genetics it is essential that the stud book is properly controlled.

In early days, Thoroughbred breeding records were sparse and frequently incomplete. It was left to James Weatherby’s research and consolidation of privately kept pedigree records, which resulted in the first volume of the General Stud Book in 1793.

This became the definitive ancestry record for all Thoroughbred matings and births in Britain and Ireland and is still published by Weatherbys every four years. The first South African Stud Book was printed in 1904 by The Jockey Club, containing the records of Thoroughbreds as far back as 1886, each of which can be traced back to Eclipse, the direct descendent of Darley Arabian; Matchem, a grandson of Godolphin Arabian; or Herod, whose great-great grandsire was Byerley Turk. What began as a pastime for noble lords and ladies has become a worldwide sporting industry of investment and gambling, of spectacle and grandeur, and of betting thrills for the masses. n

January 2012

|

31

Feature

Ready, Set,

Go!

Sporty Pietermaritzburg

The city of Pietermaritzburg is known by a number of names. “The Capital City of KwaZuluNatal” is one (much to the chagrin of neighbouring Durban), “The City of Flowers” is another and “The City of Gardens” one more. But most of the locals here simply refer to it as “Sleepy Hollow” – with derision or fondness depending on who you talk to. But Pietermaritzburg may indeed have earned itself another – less recognised – moniker over the years: South Africa’s Sport’s Capital. It may not boast a soccer stadium capable of hosting World Cup-sized games or host international cricket matches, but this sleepy city is in fact home to three of the country’s biggest sporting events, two of which have been recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © The Comrades Association, iStockphoto, Midmar Mile

32

|

The Blue Train

Feature

now attracts top swimmers from all over the world. In 2012, current ladies winner Keri-Anne Payne (UK) will face some strong competition from two of America’s finest open water swimmers, Christine Jennings and Ashley Twichell, who will be the first swimmers from the US to participate in the event.

The 2012 race will also be welcoming the legendary Slovenian long-distance swimmer, Martin Strel (also known as the Big River Man), for the first time. Strel holds Guinness World Records for swimming the Danube River and the Amazon River among others and will add a touch of star power to an already starstudded 2012 line-up.

The 2012 Midmar Mile will take place on 11th and th 12 February. Visit www.midmarmile.co.za for more information.

The Midmar Mile The Midmar Mile started out in 1973 as a local swimming event. 153 people entered the inaugural race which derived its name from the approximate length of the swim and the dam across which it was swum. The Midmar Dam is just outside of Pietermaritzburg, and serves as one of the city’s major water sources.

Since that first race, the Midmar Mile quickly became a right of passage for many Pietermaritzburg-based swimmers.

As the event grew, so too did its reputation and before long it, was attracting swimmers from across the country, including top Springbok and Olympic contenders. In 1999, the number of entrants topped the 10,000 mark for the first time in its history and in 2003 had swelled to a staggering 16,000. In 2009, the organisers contacted the Guinness Book of World Records to authenticate what they had suspected all along – that the race was the world’s largest open water swimming event. With a field of over 16,000 entrants that year, 13,755 of which finished, they did just that.

With its place in the history books assured, the Midmar Mile

The Comrades Marathon Many South Africans grew up with the tradition of watching the annual Comrades Marathon on TV, but for residents of Pietermaritzburg and Durban the memories often extend to camping out on the side of the road to cheer the runners on, helping out at the drinks stations or working at the medical tents at the finish of the race. As a result, the Comrades has become an indelible part of calling KwaZulu-Natal home – even if you have never been brave enough (or mad enough depending on who you talk to) to run the race yourself.

The very first Comrades Marathon was run in 1921 from Pietermaritzburg to Durban (approximately 90 km) with a field of just 34 runners. Among them was Vic Clapham, a WWI veteran who, after surviving a 2,700-km march through German East Africa during the war, wanted to stage an annual test of

January 2012

|

33

Feature

physical endurance to serve as a memorial for South African soldiers who had lost their lives in active duty.

Since then the race has been held every year (save for the WWII years) with the start alternating between Pietermaritzburg (the “up” run) and Durban (the “down” run).

In 1980, the field of runners topped 5,000 for the first time and by the 1990s it was hitting the 14,000 mark. The introduction of prize money in 1995 also attracted more international runners to the field. In 2010 (on its 85th anniversary), the Comrades Marathon was officially recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s oldest and largest ultra-marathon (14,343 entrants finished within the cut-off time that year).

Much has changed in the nine decades since the race first started, but one thing that has remained unchanged is its endearing sense of camaraderie. The race is renowned for the spirit of its participants, and for the incredible acts of kindness shown by the runners to each other. Every year the finish line abounds with images of participants helping their limping and cramping compatriots (many of whom they may have never met before) across the line, and in some cases even carrying them. It is these acts of friendship and kindness which have made the race so popular and which ensure that to this day it still lies up to Vic Clapham’s original aim for the Comrades Marathon to “celebrate mankind’s spirit over adversity”.

The 2012 Comrades Marathon will take place on 3rd June from Pietermaritzburg to Durban with a field of 18,000 runners. Visit www.comrades.com for more information.

The Dusi Canoe Marathon The Dusi Canoe Marathon, like the Comrades, takes place between Pietermaritzburg and Durban, and also like the Comrades came about due to a war. It was WWII in fact, when Ian Player, sitting around a campfire in Italy, was thinking longingly of home and came up with the idea of paddling the Umsindusi and Umgeni Rivers, downriver to Durban from his home town of Pietermaritzburg.

After the war, he did just that in 1950, along with seven other paddlers. Ian was the only one to finish a gruelling six days, eight hours and 15 minutes after he started – and despite being caught in a flash flood and sporting a night adder bite!

In 1956, due to concerns about the danger of the participants paddling at night, the race was changed from its original non-stop format, to a three-day event, with definite ending points on

34

|

The Blue Train

each day as well as compulsory evening stopovers. The format remains unchanged to this day, although the stopover locations and compulsory portages have changed as the rivers have themselves with the additions of dams and weirs over the years.

The race is usually held in February every year (to make the most of the summer rains and the rivers’ higher water levels) and entrants are allowed to enter in either single or double canoes, although the main class alternates between K1 and K2 canoes each year. The first two days of the race each cover about 45 km, with about 15 km of portaging on the first day and a 10 km flat stretch on the Inanda Dam on the second day. The final day covers about 35 km and ends the race with a bang with a number of large rapids. The current time to beat is just less than eight hours (over the three days of the race) and the organisers estimate a field of over 2,000 will attempt to do just that this year. The 2012 Unlimited Dusi Canoe Marathon will take place from 16th to 18th February. Visit www.dusi.co.za for more information. n

Feature

A Glass of

Green Organic Wine

Although it sounds like something that has all the fun taken out of it – much like diet Coke or low fat biscuits – there is no need to worry; all the alcohol is still there. Organic wine is made from the same grapes, in the same wine regions and in the same way wine has been made for thousands of years. All you will be missing are the chemical residues left over from conventional grape growing – and you can certainly live without those.

Text: Elaine Weir Images: © Avondale, Waverley Hills & Laibach

Conventional farming uses chemical fertilisers and pesticides to ensure a larger harvest. These chemicals are absorbed by the vines’ roots and are then passed into the stems, leaves and fruit and ultimately make their way into the wine that we drink. This ‘chemical based’ farming has a significant impact on the quality of the ground water, the surrounding soil and the wine itself.

Farm workers who use these chemicals need to wear protective clothing and breathing equipment to protect them while spraying crops as they have been proven to increase the risks of heart disease and cancer. “No one knows what the long terms effects of these residues are on us or the planet, so an organic approach can be seen as a cautious, ‘safety-first’ approach,” says Monty Waldin, a leading expert on organic wines, and the author of the Organic Wine Guide.

36

|

The Blue Train

While organic wine may cost more than conventional wine, the benefits make it worth considering. And it seems consumers agree, as the consumption of organic wine grew by 3.7% in the year ending September 2009, while the consumption of non-organic wine showed only a 2% increase.

Plus, although only about 2% of the world’s wine producers are certified as organic, there are now an estimated 1,500 to 2,000 organic wine producers globally.

How Green are South African Wines?

Here in South Africa there are numerous wineries which produce organic wines of a very high standard, and the trend is growing in popularity with many farms taking their first steps to converting their vineyards and attaining organic certification.

Feature

he termed Bio-Logic. This approach combines the best aspects of organic and biodynamic principles with the latest developments in modern science.

Always looking for new ways to embrace the organic way of living, Avondale has gone green inside and out, by also developing their own organic packaging. The new bottles are lighter, and boast both superior presentation and a lower carbon footprint.

Working under the ethos, Terra Est Vita, or ‘Soil Is Life’, Avondale has gone on to produce wine in several varietals including Chenin blanc, syrah, rosé, brut Méthode Cap Classique, as well as both red and white blends.

Laibach

Avondale In 1997, John and Ginny Grieve (owners of Vital Health Foods) purchased Avondale Farm in the Klein Drakenstein Mountains near Paarl. In 1999, their son Jonathan took on the challenge of turning the land into a vineyard that could support the ecosystem instead of harming it. That year they produced their first vintage under the Avondale label.

After a catastrophic fire swept the mountains in 2000, Jonathan looked for what he could gain from the tragedy.

Instead of burnt, damaged land, he saw the opportunity to sculpt the land and its natural ecosystems in his development of a revolutionary farming and wine-making technique,

The Laibach family has been producing wine on the slopes of the Simonsberg near Stellenbosch, (an area known for its wine and cheese) since 1994. They use a blend of tradition and innovation while always striving for continuous improvement.

The conversion of their vineyards from traditional to organic farming began a few years ago. They believe that the toxic chemicals from traditional farming can be eliminated, and that it is possible to reverse the effects of pollution on the environment, including surface and groundwater contamination and the malformation of surrounding wildlife.

Growing grapes without fertilisers and pesticides was a challenge but as they developed their system, their primary goals included building organic matter in the soil with cover crops, controlling weeds by physical means, encouraging natural air flow around the fruit and welcoming the natural enemies of vineyard pests by planting fennel and yarrow around the vineyards as an inviting breeding ground for them.

The Laibach’s leading organic wine, The Ladybird (ladybirds are the natural enemies of mealy bugs, the biggest pest that threatens vines) has received high praise from wine critics and

February 2012

|

37

Feature

connoisseurs alike, which is reassuring the Laibachs’ that the family’s commitment to making organic wine has been both recognised and rewarded.

Their hard work was recognised when they were named the winners of the 2011 Best of Wine Tourism award for Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices.

Waverley Hills

So What is in the Glass?

As you enter Waverley Hills you almost expect their white ducks (whose task it is to control the snails in the vineyards) to come out to greet you before the owners do. The estate is owned and run by the Du Toit family, who has over 40 years of experience in the wine making industry.

Waverly Hills believes that the phrase ‘organic vineyard’ should conjure up a harmonious picture of clean rows of green, trellised vines, their leaves combed by beneficial insects, the skies patrolled by hawks and owls hunting for rodents, field workers safe from toxic chemicals, and pure, delicious wines.

This is what they aspired to achieve when they first started in the organic wine market in 2000. The estate now has a total of 30 hectares of vineyards and olive groves that are planted and cultivated organically.

Waverley Hills adheres to strict regulations and are certified as organic by the SGS who stipulate that no pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or chemical fertilisers are to be used in the production process. Their organic wines contain 50% less sulphur than wines produced by conventional farming methods, and they are certified by the National Organic Program, which is administered by the United States Department of Agriculture for the US market.

At Waverley Hills, organic living is more than just a passion, it is a way of life. Project Coordinator for the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative, Inge Kotze says: “Waverley Hills truly demonstrates the philosophy of farming in harmony with nature, with no conventional pesticides and chemical fertilisers being used, and fantastic complimentary conservation and environmental awareness activities underway on the farm.”

Before any food can be labeled ‘organic’, it must meet strict criteria in order to be certified. Be sure to read labels carefully as some traditional wines carry labels saying ‘Made with Organic Grapes’ but this only means that at least 70% of the grapes used in the wine are grown organically and therefore it is not certified as organic.

The problem is that traditional wines contain added sulphides (a preservative that occurs naturally in wine) in contrast to organic winemakers who do not add any sulphides.

The less sulphide a wine contains, the healthier it is. It is rare to find a wine that is completely free of sulphides, however, otherwise it would have an extremely short shelf life. It is recommended that sulphide free wine be bought directly from the winery after tasting it with the owner.

Organic wineries do not add flavours such as oak chips to their wines and use basic wine making techniques that use yeast for fermentation. This means that organic wines have brighter colours and more distinct flavours, as well as many health benefits.

Drinking wine in moderation is known to decrease your risk for heart disease and certain types of cancer, so whether you are celebrating, food pairing or just relaxing with a glass of wine, it is important to choose a wine that is best for your health. Organic wines offer all the benefits that traditional wines do without all the drawbacks, except maybe the headache the next day.

So the next time I am asked if I want a glass of red or white wine, I think I’ll say “Green please”. n

38

|

The Blue Train

Feature

Environmentally FriendlyPoverty Alleviation Khumbulani Craft

Crafters in Mpumalanga and KwaZulu-Natal are using wood from alien trees to create high quality home décor items – and ease the burden of invasive trees on South Africa’s natural environment.

Text: Christel Jordaan/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Images: © Khumbulani Craft Carved wooden items, like this one from KwaZulu-Natal, are now being sold in high end retailers like Wetherlys, thanks to the assistance of the Khumbalani Craft initiative

The Khumbulani Craft initiative, a non-profit company established in 1999, has about 400 crafters on its books.

Building on the meaning of the organisation’s name (khumbulani is isiXhosa, and means “to remember”), these skilled workers use their knowledge of traditional crafting to earn an income for themselves and their families. In so doing they ensure that ancient art forms and techniques will be passed down and remembered by future generations.

The crafters are also trained in basic business skills, which help them to run their businesses more efficiently, and are educated about taking care of the environment.

The group recently broke into mainstream retail when Wetherlys, an upmarket seller of furniture and home accessories, launched a new collection, which includes items from the Khumbulani range. Each piece is individually made and is entirely unique.

Exotic Woods Decorate the Home Due to the fact that most of the crafters live in rural areas where transport is often unreliable, Khumbulani’s own field traders take the orders and necessary raw materials to them, and later bring the finished goods to the organisation’s Johannesburg offices for cataloguing, packaging and distribution.

Products available include items made from volcanic stone found in the North West Province, Ilala palm products, beaded products, home textiles, and Christmas decorations.

The wood collection includes headrests, spoons

40

|

The Blue Train

Feature

These men in rural KwaZulu-Natal are able to earn a living – in a province that has a high unemployment rate – by carving wooden products for Khumbalani

Doctor is part of the Belfast Community Group of wood carvers in Mpumalanga

and servers, stools and handmade laundry baskets. They are created from both indigenous as well as exotic tree species such as Jacarandas. According to Mandla Nkoana, Khumbulani’s Mpumalanga field manager, Jacaranda wood is currently popular in the décor industry as it is easy to work with, has a light, pleasing colour and a fine grain, and dries relatively quickly. The fact that it is an exotic species is even more advantageous.

Annah is just one of the many crafters from KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga who has been able to find a retail outlet for her crafts through Khumbalani

Helping the Environment and Alleviating Poverty The crafters get their Jacaranda wood from Trans African Concessions (Trac), a company that develops, maintains, and rehabilitates the N4 highway between Pretoria, Komatipoort in Mpumalanga and Maputo in Mozambique. This route is known as the Maputo Corridor.

Khumbulani struck a deal with Trac whereby Jacaranda trees that have been harvested as part of the company’s environmental management strategy, are donated to the crafters to help them fulfil the sizeable Wetherlys order.

“We are grateful to Trac for donating the wood because it fits in well with our vision of producing environmentfriendly crafts,” said Nkoana. “And we are grateful to Wetherlys for placing one of the largest retail orders that Khumbulani Craft has acquired to date.”

For indigenous trees, Khumbulani runs a tree-planting programme, which aims to restock indigenous trees used by the wood carvers. This also applies to other indigenous species such as Ncema grass, which is used to make traditional Zulu baskets.

For more information on Khumbulani Craft, visit www.khumbulani.org.za. n

January 2012

|

41

Travel

An Island Experience for

Discerning Travellers Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa

Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa combines the best of laidback island living with superb cuisine, luxurious accommodation and just the right blend of activities to entice you from your sun lounger at least once or twice during your stay.

Text & Images: Š Rani Resorts

42

|

The Blue Train

Travel

There is an undeniable stage of life when travel involves adventure and activity; when the value of a breakaway is judged by the amount of ‘stuff’ that the traveller gets through and the variety of experiences they have to report on when they return home.

Beyond this stage is the comfortable phase of travel when the trip is no longer about gathering sights and sounds in an excited rush but rather a time of collecting one’s thoughts and one’s self in a tide of pure escape with a splash of indulgence and mere droplets of activity – all while floating on a wave of subtle luxury.

It is just this sort of gentle experience, which is extended to discerning guests at Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa on the tropical Indian Ocean island of Bazaruto, just off the coast of central Mozambique.

This is an island resort where careful thought has gone into ensuring that well-heeled (now sand-scrunching barefoot) guests are offered a travel experience which seamlessly combines all of the trappings of comfort with an undeniable sense of adventure and exploration.

Privacy and Space The architectural layout of the resort is one of the cornerstones on which its overriding sense of privacy and space is based. Unlike many similar destinations, Rani Resorts and its planning team have cleverly avoided this market segment’s industry error of clustering accommodation

together to the benefit of housekeeping efficiency; but inevitably to the detriment of their guests’ sense of space and fleeting ownership. The luxurious beach chalets and bay view villas (complete with air conditioning, outside showers and private decks among other indulgences), are well spaced. This allows the palms and tropical shrubbery to create enclaves of privacy for each chalet or villa, all of which are within easy access of the beach.

Natural Attractions Endless oceans that display a palette of shades, which even Picasso’s blue period would struggle to rival, are not the only natural glory at Indigo Bay. Its unique setting, with its rare combination of island, beach and forest wilderness (featuring thick depths of casuarinas and coconut palms), is evidence of an immaculate and thriving natural environment.

With temperatures that rarely dip below 22 degrees Celsius during the day, the sky is generally a sharp and vivid blue with an occasional smudge of cooling, light-as-angel-breath clouds. At night, it turns to indigo blues and purples, settling into a cooling black broken only by iridescent stars. Beneath the waters, if one cares to dive or snorkel, lies a wonderland of colour creation: fish of every fashion combination in a submarine city, alive with the bustle of existence.

Snorkelling and scuba diving are only two of the many activities available at Indigo Bay. Most water sports are available from canoeing to water skiing. Energised guests

January 2012

|

43

Travel

can also choose from tennis, swimming, horse riding and volleyball, or can make use of the state-of-the-art gym.

Alternatively, a 4x4 drive around the island is on offer.

This includes an opportunity to interact with the locals and learn more about Mozambican culture and the islander’s commitment to sustainable ecology, before stopping off for some high-thrill dune boarding.

Rest and Relaxation For the less physically enthusiastic, Indigo Bay has the Sanctuary Spa – a winner of numerous international awards – which, with five tranquil treatment rooms, offers world class treatments and tailored beauty experiences. A Rasul chamber, ice pool, wet room and hydrotherapy pool complete the aqua experiences, while African energy is imparted through a variety of massage therapies, which make use of products with indigenous plant extracts.

And what would the ultimate island holiday be without a mention of the food and refreshments? Guests can enjoy these at various locations, including the unique Wet Bar based in the rim flow pool and the fun and family-friendly beach deck of Clube Naval.

Copious Compliments An Internet trawl will raise many comments by visitors who have previously enjoyed the delights of Indigo Bay and they rarely fail to mention the cuisine, with some praising the wide selection of gourmand-pleasing seafood and others, the variety of fare on offer for those who may not be full-blooded pescatarians.

Sights, sounds and indulgences aside, the ultimate accolades seem always to be for the staff. Indigo Bay boasts a group of enthusiastic and dedicated team members who fully embrace the Rani culture of making every guest’s experience a unique, warm and memorable one. In true island style, there is no request that is too demanding and no smile that isn’t heart-warmingly genuine.

For reservations, contact Rani Resorts on +27 11 658 0633, 0861 77 RANI (South Africa) or +258 21 301 618 (Mozambique).

Email info@raniresorts.com, or visit www.raniresorts.com. n

How to Get There Federal Air runs daily flights from Johannesburg to Vilanculos, Mozambique as well as three flights a week from Nelspruit’s Kruger-Mpumalanga Airport to Vilanculos.

Visit www.fedair.com for online bookings. Email info@fedair.com or contact +27 11 395 9000 for more information.

44

|

The Blue Train

Travel

46

|

The Blue Train

Travel The luxurious front porch of the Rambagh Palace

In a

Maharani’s Footsteps Staying in the Land of the Kings

Jaipur is not only one of India’s most colourful cities, it is also home to one of the country’s most exquisite royal residences; the Rambagh Palace. Previously the home of the beautiful Maharani Gayatri Devi, staying here is no longer limited to kings and queens.

Text: Jacqueline Cochrane Images: © Jacqueline Cochrane & Sarvan Warden

January 2012

|

47

Travel

The Rambagh Palace is set within 47 acres of gardens which often used to be the setting for lavish dinner parties during the days of the Maharani

The Indian subcontinent is home to some of the most ancient civilisations on earth. It was Albert Einstein who said, “We owe a lot to the Indians, who taught us how to count, without which no worthwhile scientific discovery could have been made.” Historically, this infinitely mysterious country has enthralled philosophers, writers, artists and also colonisers. It is a place of immense cultural wealth, intriguing rituals and profound spirituality, but it is the incredible legacy of India’s kings and royal families that never ceases to impress and overwhelm.

When India was a British colony, these ancient lines of royal rulers and their areas of governance were designated as “princely states”, which were nominally sovereign entities.

After independence, a so-called Privy Purse was instated, whereby royal families were guaranteed privileges and an income as part of their agreement to be integrated within the Indian Union. In 1971 – in a bid to reduce the government’s revenue deficit and have all citizens made equal – then-Prime Minister Indira Gandhi successfully passed a constitutional amendment that abolished the Privy Purse. Although this meant that monarchs became ordinary civilians overnight, current day descendants of these royal families continue to enjoy great status and wield immense social sway, and many of them have successfully turned to business and politics.

One such person was Princess Gayatri Devi. The third Maharani (princess) of Jaipur from 1939 to 1970, she became a significant political force after the abolition of the princely states. A fashion icon, she was named as one of the ten most beautiful women in the world (in sixth place after Princess Grace of Monaco) by Vogue magazine. Princess Gayatri’s

48

|

The Blue Train

Colourful entertainment at the Royal Palace in Jaipur

exquisite looks were matched only by the extraordinary beauty of her residence in Jaipur, the Rambagh Palace.

“As the Second World War raged in Europe, I came here to Rambagh Palace,” Devi recalled before her passing in 2009. “As a Maharani of Jaipur, I was not its first maharani, but something inside told me that Rambagh would be my palace; that this was home. A queen had finally come home.”

The Maharani often hosted royalty and dignitaries at the palace, which is set amid 47 acres of gardens, and a few kilometres away from the city centre of Jaipur – the pink city.

“At Rambagh, the night was forever young,” she reminisced.

The Princess Gayatri Devi was renowned as one of the most beautiful women in the world – as is evidenced by this oil painting of her hanging in the Rambagh Palace

Travel

A Key to the India of Kings Jaipur may very well be one of the few places in the world where you can still watch elephant polo

Days would be spent playing polo, while the evening heralded more cerebral activities. “We often dined on the lawns, and there would be card games to follow. An enormous mosquito net enclosed the card tables, and large fans covered with jasmine flowers wafted scented air around us.”

By the 1950s, the upkeep of this vast building and its grounds started to become very costly for the royal family, and it was converted into a heritage hotel in 1957. The Taj Group has managed the palace hotel since the early 1970s, and today guests from all over the world can stay in the Rambagh Palace’s 79 beautifully restored rooms. These include unthinkably lush suites, which were the chambers of the Maharani, her husband and the Jaipur rulers that preceded them.

Rambagh Palace is not the only royal residence to have been made into a luxury hotel. Also in the province of Rajasthan (historically known as the ‘Land of Kings’) are Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur (an immense sandstone palace where the royal family lives to this day), and the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur (a white marble palace built on Lake Pichola, voted as the most romantic hotel in the world and featured in the James Bond film Octopussy).

Gayatri Devi, by then the Rajmata (Queen Mother), continued to live in a separate property at the back of the palace. “Rambagh is now a hotel. I can’t live in it, but I’ve got fond of this little house too,” she said at an elderly age. “There’s nothing more to say except I hope Rambagh will always be a beautiful, beautiful residence for people to come and stay.”

For more information on Rambagh Palace, Umaid Bhawan and the Taj Lake Palace, visit www.tajhotels.com. n

There is a superlative way to enjoy every destination, if you know the right people. This is especially true in India, a country that is easily overlooked as a luxury destination. Designer Incentives and Designer Holidays, Mumbai-based sister companies, offer tourists and incentive groups experiences of a lifetime through their unmatched knowledge of the country and an invaluable network of suppliers. Elephant polo, invitations to dine with royalty at their residences, booking out entire city forts for evening events, exclusive performances by some of India’s most acclaimed dancers and singers: these are but a few of the experiences that they arrange for incentive groups. Leisure travellers who want to see the opulent side of India should contact them for a fuss-free, utterly luxurious holiday in this mesmerising country.

Visit www.designerholidays.net and www.designerincentives.net for more information.

Leaving on a Jet Plane Jet Airways has been operating flights between Johannesburg and Mumbai since 2010. Currently, they offer direct flights between these destinations five times a week. Jet Airways’ Premier Class offers unbeatable luxury and mid-air comfort. Each fully-reclining seat is contained in a shell-like pod, ensuring complete privacy.

There is a seemingly inexhaustible array of in-flight entertainment, and the delectable cuisine has won awards. Jet Airways’ Economy Class offers exceptional value for money, with return flights between OR Tambo and Mumbai, taxes included, currently costing in the vicinity of R5,000. Catching connecting internal flights with Jet Konnect is also easy and hassle-free. Visit www.jetairways.com for more information.

January 2012

|

49

Feature

SummerStyle Add a Little Sparkle to the Season

Summer is officially upon us and with it come the obligatory flowing dresses, strappy tops, and bright beaded sandals. Plus the warm weather gives you the perfect excuse to spice up your jewellery collection with some of this season’s must haves.

Text: Bronwyn Burns Images: Š iStockphoto & Arthur Kaplan Jewellers

50

|

The Blue Train

Feature

As they say, a change is as good as a holiday, so freshen up your look with jewellery that makes you look and feel gorgeous.

Whether you are on your way to work or sipping cocktails on the beach, there is no reason why you should not look your best with designer pieces that complete your look, make a bold statement or frame your face with style and elegance.

Bring Out Your Baby Blues This season’s must have colour is blue, with earrings, pendants and bracelets in tanzanite, sapphire and topaz. “Our designers traverse the globe and keep their eye on international jewellery trends. This summer it’s the bold and passionate Italian elements that will be taking centre stage,” says Laura Stewart, Marketing Manager for Arthur Kaplan Jewellers. “The Atlantis theme brings out cool colours and dreamy shades complimented by brilliant pinks and purples.”

Avon’s celebrity fashion expert Jeannie Mai agrees. “Casual or sophisticated, blue jewellery can brighten any mood and looks great on all skin tones.”

The statement to be made is a bold one – not the excessive flamboyance of last season, but rather one that gives you simple flair with a dash of daring. “Summer looks shouldn’t be complicated,” advises Mai. “Make it stylish, but keep it simple.

Next time you step out, try a cocktail ring with a foreign accent.

This season, bold is beautiful.”

A simple outfit can be catapulted into the limelight with the right accessories. A necklace adorned with splendid gems, gold plating and silver weaves or rings, and earrings with diamond flowers or colourful butterflies provide sparkle and interest. “The dynamic duo of black and white diamonds is still popular for making a dramatic statement, particularly for evening wear,” adds Stewart.

Mix and Match

the range evolves and personal tastes change,” Stewart explains.

Charm bracelets were once for little girls. Now they capture your individuality and self expression with trinkets that remind you of your loved ones, celebrations or simply your favourite treasures in life. Knowing that we ladies love to indulge, Stewart says that Arthur Kaplan has captured the spirit of individual creativity with their MUSE collection, which features an enticing sterling silver selection of charms, bracelets and earrings.

Organic Ornamentation Fashion gurus are also going green this summer. If all that bling is not for you, the emphasis on natural tones and textures may be what you are looking for. Ribbon necklaces with soft pearls or light, platted fabrics with dainty pendants are making their way onto the catwalk.

The inspiration is drawn from nature and combines sensual textures with a sensitive use of materials. Thin slivers of fine leather, lacy textures, tasselled and free spirited feathery earrings, stones, colourful blown glass and tribal pendants are perfect choices for a more organic look.

Once you have donned your choice of flattering earrings and elegant necklaces, your outfit can only be completed with a timepiece to match. Wristwatches have been sporting a new look ever since the FIFA World Cup. In line with jewellery pieces, watches are set to make an impact, and it is one that shouts modern, young and active. “Ladies are even wearing their hubbies’ watches, like the Rolex Daytona’s and Hublot. This is a huge trend at the moment,” says Stewart. Of course, it is still a matter of taste, with some women preferring a dainty watch that it is suitable for office and evening wear. This summer, though, the craze is definitely not less is more.

Whether you dress up to the max or aim for cool and corporate, Stewart assures: “If you want to make a statement: bigger and bolder is better!” n

The trick is to make sure that you choose jewellery pieces that stand out, without going over the top. Stewart suggests going for chic Bacio beads and bracelets. This exquisite Italian jewellery collection comprises hundreds of designer beads, which include Murano Glass, Swarovski Crystals and hand enamelled pottery.

These can be combined for an infinite number of different looks so that your Bacio jewellery can be re-invented every day, for every outfit and mood. “Women across the country have taken up the concept with creative flair, designing pieces that bring out their unique personality. Our Bacio collection is also an immensely popular gift, and can be continually built upon as

December 2011

|

51

Travel

Living

Small Town

Prince Albert

A weekend in the country reminds Gary Hirson about the many joys of small town living, Karoo style.

Text & Images: Š Gary Hirson

52

|

The Blue Train

Travel

When I was a child, the Karoo was that flat wasteland that we had to endure while driving south towards Cape Town for our holidays. Watching from the breathless car, dreams of lying on one of the Mother City’s beaches seemed as much an illusion as the waves of heat that rose off the dreary landscape that dragged by.

As a big city boy, I had never imagined living anywhere else. Although the craziness of cities has always excited me, as I grew older, I increasingly found myself searching for the complete opposite – a place with a peaceful ambiance where I could just relax. The Karoo has now become that elixir for me.

Its vastness, silence and slow pace engulf me whenever I have the chance to venture into this slow ambling region.

As I meander towards the cultural oasis of Prince Albert (four-and-a-half hours north of Cape Town), I feel the city stresses recede from my body as quickly as the kilometres accumulate on the odometer.

Prince Albert sits at the foot of the Swartberg Pass. The melting snow on the pass supplies the town (through a series of lei water canals) with much needed water. This is a town with a Karoo-style speed limit. People amble, cyclists cruise,

and the cars seem to free wheel.

We arrive on a Saturday morning and are just in time to experience the local wares and the colourful people at the weekly market. Fresh Karoo lamb, local cheeses and olives tease the taste buds. Colourful artists, farmers and locals (some who have themselves only recently escaped big city life) cheerfully acknowledge the many tourists.

This weekend, the Prince Albert Gallery is also holding its highly anticipated annual art auction. I wander around the multi-storied gallery viewing the oils, watercolours and photographs. A red sticker on one of the pieces means that the buyer can have the artwork for a mere R500. Two red stickers – two interested buyers – and the piece goes on auction.

“Once the bidding starts, the sparks can fly,” explains Brent Phillips, the curator. “The quality of the art is always good; the bids are fierce and go well into the thousands.”

With stickers placed, I have a day to wait and a town to explore.

I find myself in the peaceful back garden of the Prince Albert Country Store. This quaint antique store and restaurant invites all off the main street to browse, relax and dine. The

January 2012

|

53

Travel

owners, Colleen and William Penfold, are antique purveyors from Cape Town, who decided to trek north and settle in the Karoo.

“The lifestyle here is ideal,” explains Colleen. “We have no TV and read no newspapers. We eat fresh produce, don’t have to queue and never get stuck in traffic. We live in a region that is rich in fossils and we’re nestled right underneath Swartberg Pass, with access to hiking and mountain biking for the more energetic.”

With the romantic fantasy of moving here one day taking up more space in my head, I wander into Karoo Looms, local manufacturers of cotton, woollen and Angora goat mohair rugs. The manageress, Sophia Booley, is also an ‘immigrant’.

“We came here in 2010 for a lifestyle change. It was a huge shift coming from a big city but we soon got used to the easy, healthy lifestyle. One can get caught up in the dramas of living in a small town but that is a choice you make. We still visit Cape Town quite often to tap into the big city vibe and catch up with friends, but this is where home is,” she says.

It is sundowner time outside the gallery and I am excited about the impending auction. Townsfolk and tourists mingle, sip wine and discuss their preferred art of choice.

While I wait, I chat to artist, designer and guest cottage proprietor, Sally Arnold, about life in Prince Albert. “In 2006, I arrived here from Germany to visit my folks and never really

54

|

The Blue Train

left. Back then this was a town with no Internet connection, let alone ADSL. Since then it has become a cultural destination with many well known foodies, writers, artists and the likes moving here. Along with the Prince Albert Olive Festival, and events like this auction, we attract many local tourists who visit throughout the year. Next year is very big as Prince Albert celebrates its 250th birthday.”

The air is crisp, the watery reflections sharp and the constant swish of the free-flowing lei water therapeutically transports me back to an era when life seemed much simpler. As I stroll towards my guesthouse, a piece of art tucked under my arm, I am not sure if I am ready just yet to permanently embrace such a laidback kind of lifestyle. But somehow I feel that that day is not too far off. n

Contact Details The Prince Albert Gallery: Contact +27 23 541 1057, email karoogallery@intekom.co.za or visit www.princealbertgallery.co.za.

Karoo Looms: Contact +27 23 541 1363, email info@karooweavery.co.za or visit www.karooweavery.co.za.

Prince Albert Country Store: Email penfold@mweb.co.za.

The Artist’s Cottage: Contact +27 82 710 5909, email info@sallyarnold.com or visit www.artistcottages.com.

Feature

Earning Your

Stars and Stripes The Ins and Outs of Tourism Grading

The accommodation industry relies heavily on the public’s perception of star grading, and a hotel’s reputation and occupancy rates are often inexplicably linked to just how many of these glittery gold stars it has beneath its name. Now the South African Tourism Grading Council has revamped the entire grading system, which has placed the country’s graded accommodation options on a par with those around the world.

Text: Nicola Weir Images: © iStockphoto.com

You walk into a five-star hotel, stride across the marble lobby, take in the beautiful décor and listen attentively to the warm introduction given by the concierge or front desk assistant.

Everything around you seems to be befitting of a five-star location and as an ice cold glass of sparkling water is pressed into your hand and a porter whisks your luggage away on your behalf, there is no doubt in your mind of this establishment’s grading, but what about the things you cannot see? What exactly are the criteria for being classed as three or four or five-star?

56

|

The Blue Train

Hotel ratings were first developed so that potential customers would have some idea of the quality and services offered at a particular hotel. Over the years, this system has evolved and now different countries each have their own particular rating systems. The South African Tourism Grading Council (TGCSA) has recently revolutionised the ways in which South African establishments are graded by aligning the standard as closely as possible to global norms.

As the recognised assurance body for tourism products in

Feature

South Africa, the TGCSA’s vision is to implement a globally benchmarked system of quality assurance for accommodation and events venues. The TGCSA ensures that every establishment adheres to standards of excellence so that visitors feel able to rely upon the star ratings when making a choice for accommodation, conferencing or events. Establishments are placed in different categories, which include formal service accommodation (hotels and lodges); guest accommodation (guest houses, country houses, bed and breakfasts); self-catering accommodation, backpackers and hostels; and meetings, exhibitions and special events venues.

In October 2010, the TGCSA embarked on a process of creating new grading criteria in order to enhance the credibility of the grading system. Thembi Kunene, Chief Quality Assurance Officer for the TGCSA feels that this new process will aid them in their goal to make South Africa the most preferred tourism brand by 2014. “The process to revise the grading system and indeed our own operational processes, has been extremely thorough and has resulted in world class standards that we, as South Africans, can be extremely proud of,” she explains.

“The process entailed not only a review of our grading criteria and minimum requirements but also an overhaul of the entire operating system of the TGCSA in order to ensure a seamless process of managing quality assurance for tourism products.

This therefore allows us to deliver on our promise of a quality experience to tourists visiting our country, [which] is critical.”

Part of this process was the development of a new grading plaque which will represent a quality assurance to both local and international visitors making a choice of accommodation.

At the unveiling of the new grading plaque, Minister of Tourism, Marthinus van Schalkwyk, stated just how important a milestone this is for the South African tourism industry and emphasised that it was an important step in the establishment of an internationally competitive and credible grading system in South Africa. Kunene agrees that this is an important step, saying that “together with our stakeholders and industry, we have spent a significant amount of time and energy in fine tuning these grading criteria. Our joint vision of ensuring that South Africa can maintain its international competitiveness as a tourist destination is the driving force behind all our efforts.”

Centuries ago travellers relied on the stars to guide them to their destinations. Not much has changed since then as five specific stars are still used by travellers as a guide to finding their preferred accommodation and it seems that the South African tourism industry is now set to become the brightest star in the sky. n

It’s in the Stars So what do these new criteria mean for five-star establishments in South Africa? We explore the basic requirements for becoming a top-rated establishment.

Hotels In order to be classified as a hotel, the establishment must have a separate reception, a dining facility and a minimum capacity of six rooms. There are five requirements that every hotel is required to fill, regardless of its grading. An onsite representative must be available 24 hours per day, meals and beverages must be available from within the complex, rooms must be serviced daily, a formal reception must be provided and all bathroom facilities must be en suite. To be classified as four- or fivestar, additional amenities must be provided including valet service, room service, concierge, porterage and luggage handling, a central business centre, full housekeeping and laundry facilities as well as a range of miscellaneous services such as shoe polishing, massage services and newspaper delivery.

Lodges A lodge is defined as a formal accommodation facility that provides full or limited services, located in natural surroundings beyond that of the immediate garden area.

All lodges, no matter what their rating, must provide a scenic, natural view and separate lodging for the host or manager who is also required to be contactable 24 hours a day. This host must also be able to check guests in or out within a ten-minute drive from the property. Rooms must be serviced daily at a cost included in the price, bathrooms should be en suite (or exclusive to a specific room) and shared areas should be limited to a guest dining room and lounge area. In order to be classified as four- or five-star, the lodge should also provide onsite parking for guests as well as the services and facilities required of a four- or five-star hotel (see above).

January 2012

|

57

Chef

The‘Gorgasm’Gourmet Chef Richard Poynton

Nobody trusts a skinny chef, or so the adage goes. Well, based solely on his self confessed “ample proportions”, Chef Richard Poynton is extremely trustworthy!

Add to that his fluffy, snow white beard, hearty laugh and Dickensian talent to spin a good yarn, and he is KwaZulu-Natal’s answer to Father Christmas, welcoming host and lovable grandfather all rolled into one. But it is in the kitchen that Richard’s true talent and passion really comes to the fore, and culinary fanatics return time and again to Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse for another hit of Richard’s superbly flavourful cuisine.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse

58

|

The Blue Train

Chef

Though Richard has tried his talented hands at many things over the years, including running his own pottery studio and managing a successful Midland’s country guest house, food has been his overriding passion since his childhood, growing up on sugar farms in Empangeni. During his high school career at Michaelhouse, he and another student were instrumental in instigating the school’s now famed “food riots”. The headmaster’s response was: “You don’t like the food, then you organise it.”

And so Richard had his first taste of weekly menu planning with Mrs Hawsley, the resident school cook of the day.

Later when Richard and his wife, Mouse, established Granny Mouse’s Country House – one of the first guesthouses in the Midlands and one that would go on to garner an excellent reputation, both locally and abroad – in the early 80’s, Richard took over the running of the kitchens. Not having any formal culinary training, he apprenticed himself to a number of top South African chefs to learn the finer points of cooking. In the early 90s, the couple sold Granny Mouse’s and spent the next four years travelling in Europe and the UK, during which time Richard once again sought out a number of top chefs to study under. When they returned to South Africa, they set about transforming the family farm in the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg into a five-star boutique getaway and self proclaimed “foodie” destination. In the 13 years since it opened, Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse has become just that, attracting people from all over the world who are keen to sample some of Richard’s flavour packed cuisine.

The secret to Richard’s success is his absolute obsession with flavour. “My cooking revolves around flavour; I am far more interested in what your food tastes like than anything else. Sure, it’s got to look right, but more importantly, it’s got to taste right.

I am very much an intensifier of flavours, so I use techniques like reduction to get the exact flavour that I want. I don’t tend

to add any flavours – I don’t add salt or pepper, for example – I just reduce what I’ve got until I get the intensity of flavour that I want.”

In his quest for powerful and punchy flavours, Richard is also unapologetically pro butter and cream – ingredients that have increasingly become shunned in modern, health conscience kitchens. “That’s how I keep my shape, dear!” he roars. “To me they are natural products and you derive huge flavours from those fats. My food is very much based on the French philosophy of cooking, and they use a lot of butter and cream and all those things. But a little bit of the good stuff doesn’t harm you, and my restaurant is always full.”

Besides being a great lover of buttery based French sauces, homemade stocks and soups and dollops of cream in his cooking, Richard is also quick to point out that he is far from a one trick pony. The restaurant also serves up excellent vegetarian food and has a strong slant towards organic and fresh produce throughout. In fact, Richard and Mouse favour organic produce so much that Cleopatra’s kitchen has its own well stocked potager, with beds packed with herbs and fresh veggies. The kitchen is also subsidised by Richard’s massive personal organic green house gardens and orchard – an agrarian ideal for anyone who has ever dreamed of living off the land – and his chickens even provide fresh eggs for breakfast every morning.

For those ingredients Richard can’t grow or source locally, he spares no expense obtaining only the finest, including importing Parma ham from Italy and fresh salmon from Norway. “We fly in our scallops from the Isle of Skye. Of course they are double what you’ll pay for a scallop here, but it doesn’t matter, because they are so good.”

With this kind of focus on only the finest ingredients, guests at Cleopatra’s are assured of a decadent and above all memorable dining experience, which is another one of Richard’s food

January 2012 |

59

Chef

philosophies. “Food and sex are helluva close, you know. You get an orgasm from sex and we give you a ‘gorgasm’ from our food! The taste, the flavour, the texture goes into your mouth and blows your brain. And that’s what I try and do with my food. That’s why it’s so intense… It’s the whole range of flavours and textures that make up the total experience of eating. And a lot of people out there will tell you that eating good food is better than sex!”

That said, however, Richard is adamant that in order to keep experiencing this kind of extreme food high, you should never preconceive food and always strive to open your palate to new food experiences. “Food is a memory bank, and you can make your mouth water remembering a gorgeous meal, but to get a new ‘gorgasm’ from food, you’ve got to taste all the new stuff.” This is precisely why Richard deliberately serves set menus (three courses for breakfast and lunch and six or seven for dinner), as opposed to an a la carte menu.

“What I do, is take you out of your comfort zone,” explains Richard.

“You know when you look through an a la carte menu and you see pepper steak, you think: ‘Ooh, I know pepper steak, yes, I’ll have that.’

Because you know what it is and it lives in your comfort zone. Here I tell you that’s what you’re eating and you think: ‘Oh my God.’ Because it’s a huge range of goodies, including stuff you wouldn’t usually order. But I am giving you new experiences, new flavours, tastes and textures, and I think that’s a much better way of eating. And I have never, in my 13 years of cooking here, ever had anyone come to me and say: ‘I would rather have had this.’ Not once. So I must be doing something right!”

And when you are sitting in Cleopatra’s cosy dining room, with the magnificent Kamberg mountains in the background and a steaming bowl of parmesan, lemon and smoked salmon bisque in front of you, or a decadent dessert of poached pears in puff pastry liberally dolloped with homemade vanilla ice cream and smothered in butterscotch sauce, you can’t help thinking that Richard certainly is doing a lot of things right…

And another gorgasm awaits!

Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week. For more information, contact +27 33 267 7243, email cleopatramountain@telkomsa.net or visit www.cleomountain.com. n

60

|

The Blue Train

Feature

Highway to the

Danger Zone The RCZ Peugeot Sport

Sitting low on its 18” wheels, with its 185 kW engine waiting to breathe fire as it roars to life, the RCZ Peugeot Sport is an irresistible invitation to any driving enthusiast to take to the track.

Text: Bernard K Hellberg Images: Quickpic

This is intentional on the part of the manufacturers, as the Sport’s customer competition variant begins its motor racing career this year, in a series of single-make championships to be run in several countries.

Like its road going counterpart, the racing version certainly falls in the category of a premium car – this is especially true when considering its expressive styling, carefully appointed cockpit and pedigree technology. The RCZ Peugeot Sport targets all saloon car racers, from battle-hardened campaigners, who will be able to fine tune their setups thanks to the car’s data logging equipment, to the sport’s gentlemen drivers who will savour the driving enjoyment delivered by the car’s generous torque.

To ensure total coherence with the production version, the RCZ Peugeot Sport retains the original’s styling hallmarks, from its bonnet and double-bubble roofline to the polished aluminium

62

|

The Blue Train

arches, which contribute to the car’s contemporary, sporting stance. In addition, the race version stands out through bespoke features such as the adjustable rear wing, exterior mirrors and the cockpit-cooling roof vent.

In addition to the RCZ Peugeot Sport’s technical credentials, the drivers have been specially pampered, too. Strapped into the single bucket seat thanks to six-point harness belts, they can easily access the centre console which houses the different controls and the rear brake pressure regulator.

On the track, the first impressive thing about the car is its smooth, linear acceleration thanks to a powerful engine which delivers peak torque of 290 Nm. High torque is available from very low revs to provide powerful acceleration out of the tightest turns, which is an absolute must under racing conditions. This impressive performance on the corners is courtesy of its precisely balanced chassis and efficient, reassuring handling. The absence

Feature

of a brake servo allows drivers to profit fully from the stopping power of its 355mm-diameter front discs and six-pot callipers.

To further enhance the driver’s experience of true racing conditions, the steering wheel mounted gearshift paddles permit ultra quick gear changes, while the electronic gearshift control system means that drivers do not need to use the clutch.

Additionally all soundproofing has been removed, and the steel monocoque body shell is fitted with a welded roll cage – which links notably to the upper suspension mountings for enhanced driver safety and a more rigid chassis.

The transversally mounted, four cylinder engine block uses specific racing pistons and conrods. Other parts, like the crankshaft, flywheel, camshafts and valves, are standard. Air is fed to the specific air box via a scoop located in the centre of the grille, while the Borg Warner turbocharger is cooled by the original intercooler which has been fitted above the bespoke water radiator. All engines are run-in, sealed and bench tested before being fitted.

The sequential six speed gearbox incorporates a limited slip differential. The steering wheel mounted paddles activate the hydraulic gear selector for extremely fast gearshifts and

outstanding long term reliability.

The MacPherson-type front suspension arrangement is chiefly based on production components, while the Peugeot Sport developed dampers permit a range of settings (ride height, camber, and toe). The car sits on hard compound 25-64R18 slicks fitted to one piece wheels.

In addition to the crumple zone structures which are a feature of the production model, the RCZ Peugeot Sport comes with the requisite passive safety equipment required for circuit racing. In addition to the bucket seat and six-point harness belt, a multipoint welded roll cage, a fire extinguisher and a battery cut-off switch are also included.

While engineering its latest high end race car, Peugeot Sport was careful to dial in low competing costs from a very early stage.

For a pre-VAT price (in Europe) of approximately R540,000, the RCZ Peugeot Sport is delivered ‘tested’ and ‘ready-to-race’.

Be warned that South African enthusiasts will probably have to pay considerably more than their European peers, however.

Hopefully, Peugeot will be bringing this sensational performance car to our shores regardless of the price though. n

January 2012 |

63

History

In the Tracks of a

Legend The History of The Blue Train

For over half a century, The Blue Train in South Africa has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent travelling experiences. Officially named The Blue Train in 1946, the train’s predecessors trace their history to the 1890s and the discovery of diamonds and gold.

Text & Images: © The Blue Train

For the empire builders of old, the unchartered African interior was the landscape of a dream in the making. A dream that would etch its course in parallel lines that snaked their way northward from the Atlantic shoreline, conquering the distance from Cape Town to Cairo.

This dream was not to be, as the Great African Railway reached only as far as a bridge across the gorge of the Zambezi River, overlooking the thundering smoke of the Victoria Falls. But in the fading years of the 19th century, the discovery of gold and diamonds drew thousands to the edge of the continent, and those lines of tempered steel began to bear the burden of industry, commerce, and society on the move.

Soon, as the moneyed classes made their presence felt, the network added leisure travel to its list of duties, and in the slipstream of leisure came luxury. The Union Limited and the Union Express, ferrying passengers between the mailships of Cape Town harbour and the goldfields of the Witwatersrand, were the standardbearers of steam-powered opulence in the easy-living heyday of the 1920s, boasting everything from card tables to hot and cold water on tap. A coat of royal blue and cream would later give the trains their distinctive livery, and it was from this line, in these shades, that The Blue Train – a “Palace on Wheels” – would ride the rails to legendary status.

Withdrawn from service during the dark days of World War Two, extensively refurbished and modernised in the seventies and nineties, The Blue Train went on to define a new era of luxury travel, making the switch from steam to electric and diesel, linking veld to sea, and tradition to progress, with a sense of style, grace, and mesmerising power that have never come close to being matched.

64

|

The Blue Train

History

Keeping Up With Technology From the Age of Steam to the Age of the Internet, The Blue Train has kept on track with ever-changing technology. In the process, it has lost none of the charm that anchors it to a bygone era. In its earliest incarnation, as a direct descendant of the Union Limited and Union Express that plied their way between Johannesburg and the Cape coast, The Blue Train thundered down the rails at the command of a mighty steam locomotive. A wisp of romance still lingers from that coal-fired era, clouding the memory of an energy source that proved to be less powerful, less efficient, and far more difficult to maintain than its whisper-quiet replacement. Today, the dual Blue Train sets, differentiated only by their number of suites and the option of a Conference Car that doubles as an Observation Lounge, are hauled by a fleet of diesel or electric locomotives. Whatever the motive, The Blue Train glides through the countryside at a maximum service speed of 90 km/h, ensuring that the noise level of 55 decibels, somewhere between the sound of soft rainfall and normal conversation, is never exceeded. Inter-suite sealing ensures utter privacy for guests.

In the world of ever-shrinking boundaries, ever-intensifying demands, rail travel in the grand old tradition has become a luxury in itself. The luxury of time: time to indulge, time to reflect, time to savour sights, sounds, senses and sensations. You’ll feel it from the moment you step into your suite, transformed by a magical act of alchemy from an elegant, spacious lounge by day, into a sanctuary of comfort and slumber by night.

Bringing together cultures and travellers from across the globe, The Blue Train is an exclusive society on the move – one that will undoubtedly prevail for years to come. n

February 2012

|

65

Train Layout

66

|

The Blue Train

Feature