The Blue Train January 2013 by Brett Rothmann

www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Complimentary Guest Magazine

January 2013

Tsitsikamma • Maputaland • Noordhoek

bees fly more tHan once around tHe world to gatHer a pound of Honey

tHanks to tHeir strong wings, Honey bees fly very fast

bees fly tHe sHortest possible route between flowers to increase speed and productivity

Honey bees are HigHly organised

Fast, Efficient, Reliable You can be confident that your products are being delivered across the country by a reputable, reliable, dedicated courier and distribution company.

National Call Centre: 0861 EWC 000

www.ewc.co.za durban - (031) 573 9700 | bloemfontein - (051) 435 5075 Johannesburg - (011) 383 1500 | port elizabeth - (041) 451 0458 cape town - (021) 380 6200 | george - (044) 873 2973/4

contents 26 www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Hanlie Kotze Letter from the Executive Manager

Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Letter from the Editor

News Keeping You Informed

From The Mailbag Passenger Letters and Comments

EVENTS Dates To Diarise

BITS Need To Know

A SEASIDE SAFARI Maputaland

HIT THE ROAD JACK Travelling the Smart Way

WATER WORLD Getting Wet in Tsitsikamma

THE GIFT OF LITERACY help2read

The Blue Train

Complimentary Guest Magazine

January 2013

08 Tsitsikamma • Maputaland • Noordhoek

10 18 12 13 14 16 30 18 23 26 30

A TRIP BACK IN TIME

Getting Lost in Lamu

ATHLETES OF THE STAGE Ballerinas of the South African Mzansi Ballet

NOORDHOEKED The Delights of Cape Town’s Distant Suburb

SUN SMART Safe Outdoor Fun

CHILDREN OF THE FUTURE

Preparing Your Child for the Technological Age

WUNDERBAR! Chef Jochen Riedel

LUXURY JUST GOT EXCITING The Bentley Continental GT V8

Destination Listings Luxury Accommodation & Dining Guide

IN THE TRACKS OF A LEGEND The History of The Blue Train

SUITE LAYOUT Coach Info

January 2013

32 36 42 47 48 51 54 58 62 64 |

Letter from the Executive Manager Hanlie Kotze

Welcome back! A warm welcome to 2013 to all of our employees, valued guests, colleagues and partners. We hope that you are all wellrested and looking forward to the year ahead. In my December address to my colleagues, I emphasised how we often look back at the year gone by with mixed emotions. As we reflect, however, we often come to the conclusion that in spite of all our fears, everything still worked out for the best for each one of us. This is because research has shown that: • 40% of what we worry about will never happen • 30% of what we worry about or fear are things that happened in the past and cannot be changed • 10% of the things that we worry about are considered to be insignificant issues • 12% of what we worry about are issues about our health that will not happen This means that a total of 92% of what we fear or worry about will never take place. It is thus reassuring to know that in the year that lies ahead, only 8% of our daily worries are actually worth worrying about and can be considered legitimate concerns. So, as a result, it is an opportune time to fearlessly confront the year ahead – with all its inevitable challenges – with renewed vigour and optimism.

Happy New Year The New Year should always be perceived to be full of promise. Yes, you will experience your fair share of trying times along the way, but each new year also brings with it new belief, growing confidence, experience and wisdom. It is a gift, so let’s fearlessly embrace it! Happy New Year.

Hanlie

The Blue Train

Letter from the Editor Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu I have always been a little nonplussed by all the cheer and celebration on New Year’s Eve. I understand the excuse for a party, the joy of popping champagne corks and the sentiment of wishing all of your near and dear the best of luck for the New Year. I do not, however, understand why we celebrate the start of a new year when the end of the existing one is often so good. For many people, myself included, the best time of the year is invariably the end of it. School years and university terms (in the Southern Hemisphere at least) culminate in final exams and then the celebration of completing them, businesses wind down and then close for the Christmas break, everyone is on holiday and here in South Africa, the weather is sunny and clear and everyone is keen to get outdoors, enjoy our beautiful country and all the beautiful people in it. The start of a new year, however, brings with it renewed responsibilities, that extra catch up at work after the revelry of December, and the implication that we should all dust ourselves off, shed the irresponsible behaviour of December and start afresh as thinner, more hard working, more responsible versions of ourselves for the new year. In short, January often just ends up feeling like a really long Monday – and what is there to celebrate about that? But then, I thought about it again, and not everything about Mondays is bad. I always tend to be my most productive on a Monday – and productive days always make you feel better about yourself. While weekends are fun and relaxed, there is some relief in getting back into a regular routine again, and with it all the things we should make a habit of doing all week long – like exercising and eating healthily and getting to bed at a reasonable time. Mondays are great for brainstorming and planning – when your brain is fresh after a weekend break and you actually have something new to talk about with your co-workers. Mondays are also great when they are over and you know that you have survived the worst part of the week (mentally at least) and that the rest will invariably be a lot easier. So while January may seem like the more laced up, responsible version of hedonistic December, it does have its good points. Many of us do take the opportunity of the start of a new year to reassess our lives, try to change the things we are not happy with and plan for the year ahead. Most of us do launch ourselves into January with a renewed vigour for our jobs and our families and even ourselves (new gym membership, anyone?) and while it’s admittedly a long time to wait until December again, January does mean that we have a whole 12 months to make that year of our lives just what we want it to be. And that certainly is something worth celebrating. Happy New Year!

Noeleen

editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za Pretoria, Gauteng Tel: +27 12 334 8459 Fax: +27 12 334 8464 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 449 2672 Fax: +27 21 449 3338 United Kingdom Tel: +44 1403 243619 Fax: +44 1403 217558 Central Europe Tel: +44 2089 245126 Fax: +44 2089 245126 United States Tel: 001 305 864 4569 Fax: 001 305 675 7693 PUBLISHER Deidre Theron-Loots deidre@africanspiritmedia.co.za African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG (843 624) Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@africanspiritmedia.co.za

EDITOR Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu editor@bluetrainmag.co.za MANAGING EDITOR Nicky Furniss nicky@tcbgroup.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Bryan Kayavhu+27 78 248 5245 bryan@tcbgroup.co.za Nikki de Lange +27 83 415 0339 nikki.sales@tcbgroup.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha +27 83 629 8818 robyn@tcbpublishing Images © iStockphoto.com Cover Image © Joep Stevens/SANParks DESIGN & LAYOUT Joanne Mc Laren joanne@virtualdavinci.co.za Virtual Da Vinci Creative Room

PRINTING Business Print Centre, Pretoria CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Liandri Pretorius, Nicky Furniss, Keri Harvey, Lorraine Kearney/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Keith Bain, Adam Cruise, Beth Cooper Howell The Blue Train Magazine is published monthly by African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd. Opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd, The Blue Train or any of their clients. Information has been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. No responsibility can be accepted for errors and omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in this publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without specific written permission from the Publisher. Copyright © 2013. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd and/or the individual contributors. All rights reserved.

news

The Blue Train Steams Ahead in Africa

The Blue Train was recently named “Africa’s Leading Luxury Train” at the World Travel Awards 2012 – an accolade it has now enjoyed for four consecutive years. Hanlie Kotze, The Blue Train’s Executive Manager, could not hide her excitement: “We are thrilled and very proud to yet again be named amongst the crème de la crème of the African continent. The World Travel Awards are hailed as the ‘Oscars’ of the travel industry and aim to reward those travel brands that have excelled and made a great contribution to the industry. This award is evidence of the hard work everyone has been putting in – especially over the last couple of months. It also serves as a signal that our plans to take this brand to another level are on the right track,” she said. “This award qualifies us for the Grand Finale, which will take place in New Delhi, India on 12th December 2012, where The Blue Train will compete with the world’s best for the coveted ‘World’s Leading Luxury Train’ award. We will be keeping our fingers crossed!” Hanlie concludes.

The Blue Train Wins Silver The Blue Train is delighted to have been announced as the second placed Runner Up at the exclusive Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Travel Awards in the category of “Favourite Specialist Train Operator”. This prestigious awards ceremony was hosted at The British Museum in September 2012. The Blue Train previously won Gold in 2010, and came fifth in 2011. This year, the top prize went to The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which is a worthy winner. Other trains in the Top Ten included The Palace on Wheels, The Maharajas’ Express and Deccan Odyssey in India, The Rocky Mountaineer and Royal Canadian in Canada, The Hiram Bingham in Peru and The Old Patagonian Express in Argentina. Rovos Rail, the other specialist train in South Africa, won tenth place which is fantastic news for South Africa – playing host to two of the world’s Top Ten trains. “We are truly delighted with this achievement. The nomination alone in these prestigious awards is a great honour for us,” comments Hanlie Kotze, the Executive Manager of The Blue Train. “We always strive to meet and possibly exceed all of our guests’ expectations, every time, all the time. It is through great nominations and awards

such as the Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Travel awards that one finds time to reflect and iron out any shortcomings or complacency that may have crept in on our service standards,” she adds. Condé Nast Traveller is a highly respected publication that is largely regarded as the only authority on travel and lifestyle in the UK. Its ‘Truth in Travel’ ethos along with its policy of never accepting sponsored press invitations means that the publication never yields to pressure and is a magazine readers trust.

The Blue Train Magazine in the Spotlight The Blue Train Magazine once again did us proud at the recent 2012 SA Publication Forum Awards which reward excellence in custom publishing. The magazine was awarded certificates of excellence in two judging categories, namely design and communication, and was not only selected as a finalist in the Communication category but went on to place third overall in the category, which included over 150 other corporate publications. The magazine was also selected – for the first time – as a finalist for the award of “Best External Magazine Category A” (magazines with a higher budget). This effectively recognises The Blue Train as one of the best external corporate publications in South Africa – an accolade which the magazine’s production team are extremely proud of.

Business “Unusual” Charters A special tailor-made, all-inclusive charter on The Blue Train is a wonderful way for guests to explore South Africa’s landscapes and landmarks, lasting from a few hours to several nights. From a VIP cocktail breakfast, lunch or dinner, to a business “unusual” conference, a product launch with a difference, a special wedding reception, staff incentives or even a birthday celebration, the experience is up to you. The Blue Train follows any route, provided the rail networks are compatible to its technology.

The Blue Train is now a Heart Save Area Several Blue Train staff have completed a Heart Saver CPR/AED Course and are now proficient in the necessary knowledge and practical skills to recognise life threatening cardio-pulmonary emergencies on board. This will enable them to respond swiftly and effectively in the event of an emergency. The staff will be aided by the Samaritan Pad 500P with CPR Advisor, which is a small, portable and easy to use device, which helps to restore a pulse in most heart attack victims. It also aids rescuers by giving precise visual and voice instructions on how to use the device and how to administer effective CPR.

For Further Information For more information on The Blue Train’s exciting packages and to read the booking conditions for advance reservations, visit www.bluetrain.co.za or contact The Blue Train reservation office in Pretoria on +27 12 334 8459 or Cape Town on +27 21 449 2672. Email any general enquiries or feedback to info@bluetrain.co.za. n

The Blue Train

From the Mail Bag

Passenger Letters & Comments

All the dining staff provided very friendly and helpful service. Everything was perfect. I will definitely take The Blue Train again. NL Magano, South Africa The food quality and selection was superb. Justice (dining waiter) was very friendly and helpful. All the staff provided very friendly and exceptional service. Ms Betty Golen, USA Thank you for a wonderful experience. We will be back again. Mr AE Adams, South Africa Our butler Choice was excellent. Many thanks for a memorable and magnificently perfect experience. Mr & Mrs Yaghjian, USA Thank you for a very pleasant experience. I am old now, but hopefully my children will travel on The Blue Train in the future. Mrs EJ Bernhardt, South Africa It was a great experience that I will definitely recommend to others. Mrs DS Batley, Australia An unforgettable experience. Mr RA Kgaile, South Africa The quality and selection of drinks and meals were excellent. The suite was very comfortable and relaxing and the staff were very friendly and helpful. Ms M Blom Cooper, UK Thank you for a great experience. The Blue Train is in a class of its own. Mr & Mrs S Modibane We had the most enjoyable and unique experience. We will definitely recommend The Blue Train to our family and friends. Mr & Mrs R La Motte, Australia

Do you have a complaint or comment that you would like to share with us? Please fill in the guest questionnaire that is available in your suite or alternatively send an email to info@bluetrain.co.za. Please also feel free to send your photos from your trip on The Blue Train to the same address. Comments may be edited, shortened or translated from the original language.

January 2013

events A Celebration of the Vine The Stellenbosch Wine Festival stomps its way into a new era this January with an expanded ten-day program designed to showcase the delightfully diverse town of Stellenbosch from 25th January to 3rd February 2013. The new-look Stellenbosch Wine Festival delivers a full flight of wine experiences for both casual fans and connoisseurs, including an inaugural charity gala, a ten-day promotion at many of the area’s award-winning restaurants, special cultivar evenings, and wine farm tours. Sporting events, art exhibitions and musical concerts throughout the town during the festival will give attendees a colourful taste of the Stellenbosch lifestyle. It all culminates at a three-day Wine Expo, which will be located in the heart of the vibrant town and will feature interactive stands and tasting programmes from over 130 wine and gourmet food producers. For more information, visit www.stellenboschwinefestival.co.za, or contact +27 21 886 4310.

Horsing Around The J&B Met – one of the country’s most celebrated outdoor social events – will take place at Kenilworth Racecourse in Cape Town on 2nd February when the Mother City will be transformed into a party zone for the funloving and fashion conscious. In accordance to this year’s theme, Made to Fly, visitors can expect ground-breaking fashion and bold attitudes as well as 16 of the country’s top racehorses who will be competing for a stake of the R2.5 million prize money over 2,000 m. Tickets for the J&B Met cost R185 and are available through iTickets.co.za. Visit www.jbmet.co.za for more information.

Golf’s Greats The Volvo Golf Champions was launched in 2011 as the first-ever true tournament of champions on the European Tour. In 2013, it will be played from 10th to 13th January at the Durban Country Club. The Volvo Golf Champions serves as a curtain raiser to the multinational golfing circuit and features an elite field of proven winners. Entry is restricted to those who have either won an event on the European Tour in the previous year or who are long-term champions who have won ten or more titles during their career. Since it is a limited and exclusive field with many of the world’s finest golfers, no halfway cut is necessary. All of the stars are therefore on view to the television cameras and visiting crowds on each of the four days of the event. All of 2012’s Major winners have qualified including current Open champion, Ernie Els, as well as all but one of the victorious European Ryder Cup Team. For more information, visit www.volvoingolf.com.

The Blue Train

events A Royal Affair It was 1861 when the legendary Queen’s Plate race first thundered on African soil, with a prize of a silver plate and 500 sovereigns donated to the winner by Queen Victoria. The race signalled a meeting of racing excellence, style and grace that has continued unsurpassed in the history of South African horseracing. Visitors can expect the same from the 2013 edition of the L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate, which will be held at Kenilworth Racecourse in Cape Town on 12th January, with equestrian contenders competing for the R1 million purse and race-goers looking to land best-dressed honours. The elegance of the occasion is reflected in the royal blue and white race day fashions, world-class entertainment and a variety of hospitality and culinary offerings which make the L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate the perfect place to share good wine with friends, enjoy the races and dance the night away. Tickets are available at Computicket.

Stomp, Rattle and Roll Delheim Wine Farm in Stellenbosch will roll out the barrels for its 2013 vintage on 26th January at the fourth Start of Harvest Festival. The highlight of the festival will once again be the famous grape stomp, where teams will clash in pursuit of producing the most juice. The fun will kick off with the newest addition to Delheim’s daily offerings, a guided vineyard tour. A cellar tour will follow, giving a rare glimpse into a working wine cellar in the midst of harvest. At 14h30, the grape stomp will begin which will involve a barrel-rolling, grape-grabbing, chaotic stomping sequence with onlookers shouting out ‘helpful’ hints. Prizes will be awarded for the most juice stomped, with spot prizes allocated according to quirky themes. Email delheim@delheim.com or contact +27 21 888 4600 for picnic and ticket bookings; or visit www.delheim.com to find out more.

A Fascinating Body of Work Body Worlds & The Cycle of Life, the original ground-breaking anatomical exhibition by trailblazing scientist, Dr Gunther von Hagens, will be running at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town until 31st January 2013. The exhibition consists of more than 200 human specimens, which have been preserved through ‘plastination’, a process of preserving human tissue invented in 1977 by Dr von Hagens. This process shows the complexity, resilience and vulnerability of the human body through anatomical studies of the body in distress, disease and optimal health. Body Worlds & The Cycle of Life has shown in more than 70 cities around the world, has been seen by over 35 million people and serves as an illuminating journey into the human body. Tickets are sold at two-hour intervals to manage visitor flow and an average tour takes approximately 90 minutes. Visit www.bodyworlds.co.za for tickets and more information.

January 2013

bits Eye Spy Vision, focus, and clarity are all words that we use in our everyday lives. Now, thanks to Mellins I-Style and ZEISS, eye testing has been taken to a whole new level at the new Mellins I-style ZEISS Experience practice in Fourways, Johannesburg. The new practice offers eye testing so advanced that the lenses produced are four times more accurate than any existing technology. Even the smallest centering error on a lens can lead to a 40% reduction in lens performance. The ZEISS i.Terminal allows measurements of up to 1/10 mm accuracy. An eye test which maps approximately 3,000 points (almost like a fingerprint) is done automatically in under 90 seconds. The resulting lens, which offers up to 30% improvement of vision at night and in low light conditions, is designed according to the exact ‘fingerprint’ of your eye, which means a dramatic improvement in night vision, colour and contrast discernment. For more information, visit www.mellins.co.za.

Bubbly on the Move Regarded as one of South Africa’s leading Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) producing areas, the Franschhoek Wine Valley has recently relaunched its MCC route, with the addition of a number of new producers to its already celebrated line-up. Franschhoek has been challenging other wine-producing areas in South Africa, with great strides in quality in recent years, and is proud to have many of the most innovative and progressive producers in the country among its wineries. The Valley now has a total of 18 producers, which include newcomers Grande Provence, Plaisir de Merle and La Motte. The relaunched route extends from Backsberg all the way through to Franschhoek Pass Winery, the home of Morena, giving visitors to the area an all-round experience of what Franschhoek has to offer. For more information on the route, visit www.franschhoek.org.za.

Time for Tea The tea masters at Toni Glass have travelled incredibly long and far in pursuit of the very best tea the world has to offer and have tried to emulate the true ancient masters of this age-old art form. The Toni Glass Collection is a remarkable infusion of both tradition and new age tea drinking – the perfect blend of modern sophistication and style coupled with the true legacy of the leaf. All of their teas are the finest full leaf teas available and have been hand selected to create an ensemble of flavour. Visit www.toniglasscollection. co.za or contact 0861 11 15 54 to purchase your own gourmet hot or iced tea. Indulge… you deserve it!

The Blue Train

bits A Tasty Trio Kleinood have released their brand new Tamboerskloof Katharien Syrah Rosé 2012 together with the new vintages of the already established and highly acclaimed Tamboerskloof Viognier 2012 and the award-winning de Boerin Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The Tamboerskloof Katharien Syrah Rosé 2012 has crisp strawberry, mixed berry and papaya flavours on the nose and notes of fruit salad and strawberry on the palate, while the Tamboerskloof Viognier 2012 is a light honey-coloured wine to be enjoyed throughout the year. Completing the new release trio is the de Boerin Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2012, which is a full-bodied and elegant, but intense oil with a nose of green olives and mown hay. Tamboerskloof Katharien Syrah Rosé 2012 and Viognier 2012 are available from the cellar and select specialist wine stores, while De Boerin Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2012 is available from specialist delicatessen shops. For more information, visit www.kleinood.com.

Tea by the Sea Cape Town’s Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa will be extending its popular ‘Tea by the Sea’ during the summer months, to offer guests a choice of delectable treats from a High Tea Buffet that will be served every Saturday and Sunday in the Café Grill from 14h00 to 18h00. Here guests may feast on the glorious buffet while enjoying spectacular mountain views, and breathing in the fragrances of the salty sea breeze and the surrounding fynbos. Tea by the Sea is also available by prior arrangement in the Leopard Bar or the Conservatory. Setting the scene for a truly memorable occasion, this is a popular choice for small groups celebrating birthdays, Kitchen Teas and Baby Showers. The High Tea stands feature freshly baked scones and clotted cream, cupcakes, and mouth-watering finger sandwiches, along with the finest selection of fragrant teas and coffees. For reservations, email bookta@12apostles.co.za. For more information, visit www.12apostleshotel.com.

Brandy Fusion The team at the Van Ryn's Distillery near Stellenbosch has devised a menu of tantalising brandy-based cocktails to match the seasons. Changing every month to mirror the mood of the moment, Van Ryn’s mixology mavens have created matches with chocolate, coffee, fruit and spice, to tempt both connoisseurs and newcomers to the spirit. All through summer, they will be offering an enticing iced brandy, chocolate coffee cocktail. January’s brandy is infused with a refreshing ginger bite, while the choice for Valentine’s month is a romantic brandy and bubbly tinged with a hint of exotic rose water. All year round, Van Ryn’s also makes a decadent and creamy sweet treat called Angel’s Share. Cocktails can be sipped and savoured on plush couches in the distillery’s cool indoor tasting area or enjoyed under the shade of umbrellas overlooking the fragrant garden. For more information, visit www.vanryns.co.za.

January 2013

Travel

A Seaside

Safari Maputaland

On a secluded stretch of beach in the far reaches of KwaZulu-Natalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s north coast, a prehistoric looking creature heaves its massive 130 kg bulk up onto the sand dunes and begins to dig a nesting hole, in an ancient ritual that has gone on unchanged for millennia. In the ocean she has just exited, gigantic whale sharks glide sedately through the water, scooping plankton into their massive mouths; rays the circumference of tractor tyres burrow into the sea sand; and millions of brightly coloured reef fish dart in and out of coral, both as hunter and hunted. This is Maputaland. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: ÂŠ Dana Allen, Anthony Grote, Martin Benadie & Nicky Furniss

The Blue Train

Feature

Rocktail Beach Camp is a comfortable base from which to explore and enjoy this pristine stretch of coastline – from lazy days on the beach and spectacular reef dives, to romantic evenings overlooking the lush coastal forest

It is a wild wonderland of forested dunes, wetlands and lush woodlands teeming with birds, as well as stretches of the most unspoilt and pristine coastline anywhere in the world. As part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a recognised World Heritage Site, this stretch of coastline is one of South Africa’s greatest treasures. Yet – thanks to its secluded location – remains largely untouched by the tourism bug. As a result, Rocktail Beach Camp (one of only two lodges in the area) is a decidedly laid back and unpretentious place to call home while exploring this ecological gem of a destination. Lodgings are in the form of tented rooms – admittedly with canvas sides and mesh net for windows, but decidedly comfortable nonetheless, right down to the outside ablutions with spectacular views of the distant sea across an expanse of virgin forest. Wooden decks also make the most of the elevated view, but for most people the camp is a mere watering and resting point in between all the ecological adventuring the area promises. Numerous trails crisscross the cool lushness of the surrounding Maputaland Coastal Forest Reserve, where walkers are often rewarded with a sighting of a reedbuck or a shy duiker, while being serenaded by flocks of indigenous birds, from Purple Crested louries and Grey Waxbills to Green coucals. As the forest gives way to giant sand dunes, you tumble out onto a wide swath of beach. It is undoubtedly one of the few in Natal where you can literally walk for kilometres in any direction and not see a single other soul, save for the odd ghost crab dicing with the surf. It is a misleading sense of isolation, however, because the

waters of the adjacent Maputaland Marine Reserve are quite literally bursting with life. Mokarran Dive Charters – affiliated to Rocktail – offers guided snorkelling trips out to the reef just metres off the shore, or to Lala Neck, which at high tide forms a calm lagoon perfect for children just getting the hang of their masks and snorkels. The dive centre also offers "Ocean Experiences". This is an exciting aquatic version of a traditional game drive. After an adrenaline inducing launch through the surf, there is every possibility of encountering huge pods of dolphins (and swimming with them), spotting Humpback and Southern Right whales in season, snorkelling with manta rays and turtles, or even getting in the water with one of the behemoths of the sea, the Whale shark. However, to truly see why this area is such an aquatic paradise, you really need to get suited up, strap on a tank and head under the waves. Here divers will find Africa’s southern-most coral reefs: unique underwater habitats covered in corals of huge variety and often startling colours, as are the creatures that call these reefs home. Multi-coloured Parrot fish, elegant Moorish idols, Blue sturgeon and Butterfly fish all vie for your attention with their techno-coloured liveries, while further up the food chain, giant Kingfish hide in dark overhangs just waiting for a tasty morsel to swim by, ribbon tailed rays snooze on the sandy sea bed, and black reef tip sharks patrol the area with their characteristic s-shaped undulating movements. A good dive master (and Mokarran boasts some of the most experienced in the country) can also point out the reef’s tinier inhabitants and often overlooked features, which can make the difference between a good dive and a great one. Even

January 2013

Travel

Maputaland is an ideal family destination, with lots to keep the kids entertained

experienced divers will be fascinated to see how the orange spotted black hoods of the egg shell cowry can be tickled apart to reveal a treasure of a glimmering white egg within; or how a wiggling finger in a seemingly empty sandy pothole can reveal a flapping little electric ray hidden under the sand. Sharks and sport fish may be impressive due to their size, but it’s being shown the tiny details – a delicate paper fish "blowing" backwards and forwards in the current, or being shown where to hold your hand under a rock and watching, fascinated, as an entire retinue of tiny cleaner shrimp come out to give you a thorough going over like an underwater carwash – that truly demonstrates the wonder of this particular dive site. Between November and March, this stretch of coastline is turtle central, as Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles migrate back to their hatching grounds to play their part in creating the next generation. As a result, it is not unheard of to spend a dive literally tripping over these endearing dinosaurs of the sea, from watching a Loggerhead turtle having a siesta under a rock and a Hawksbill foraging for food, to looking up to see the silhouette of a little Green turtle perfectly outlined as it swims sedately to the surface for a breath of fresh air. While these incredible creatures are most graceful and captivating in their own watery habitat, it is an otherworldly experience to witness one of these animals heave themselves tirelessly up the sand dunes and then complete the exhausting ritual of laboriously carving their nests out of the soft sand, laying their eggs, covering over their clutch, and then heaving their heavy and weary bodies back to the ocean. This is one of the few places in the world where humans can watch this prehistoric pantomime unfold. It is thrilling to drive along the deserted beach, with only the moonlight and the faint beams of an open-top Land Rover to help you scan the soft sand for the telltale shuffling tracks that show that a Loggerhead or – a much greater prize – a giant Leatherback turtle has come ashore. Often there are two parallel sets of tracks, indicating that the show is already long over. But if you are lucky, you might catch one "in the act", so to speak, and it truly is an emotional and moving experience which is hard to capture fully in words, but instantly memorable. Rocktail’s turtle tracking vehicle, as well as one from

The Blue Train

Turtle drives are one of the camp’s most popular activities in season. Here a Loggerhead turtle makes her way back to the ocean after laying her clutch of eggs on the beach

neighbouring Thonga Beach Lodge, are the only private vehicles allowed on this stretch of beach. As well as sharing this magical experience with a restricted number of guests, the guides also measure and tag every turtle encountered, thereby aiding Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife with their turtle conservation project, which is one of the longest running and most successful turtle protection programmes on the planet. The turtles pepper the beach with their nests from November to February every year. Thereafter, the pantomime continues until March or early April when the eggs hatch and visitors may be lucky enough to witness the next generation of little turtles making a headlong dash for the sea and all the dangers it holds for them. Only a tiny fraction of all the turtles that hatch on this spectacular stretch of coastline will live to maturity. But those that do, know by some deep instinctive urge, some unknown power of nature, to make their way back here to start the process all over again. And that’s just what many of the visitors to this wild, untouched stretch of Zululand coast will feel too after their first experience of its unrivalled beauty and amazing wildlife – an unknown and ever present urge to find their way back here. n

Useful Information Rocktail Beach Camp is located in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and the Maputaland Coastal Forest Reserve and is midway between Kosi Bay to the north and Sodwana Bay to the south. For more information, visit www.wilderness-safaris.com. Wilderness safaris has recently launched the Wilderness Safaris Residents Programme. To find out more about member benefits see www.wilderness-residents.co.za and SMS Safari and your email address to 34007.

Reader’s Offer Rocktail Beach Camp is currently running a special reader’s offer of R1,550 per adult per night sharing, including full board and twice daily scheduled activities. This offer is for travel within 14 days of booking and expires 20th March 2013. Contact +27 11 807 1800 or email JaniceS@wilderness.co.za or CharisseB@wilderness.co.za for bookings and more information.

Feature

Hit the Road Jack –

And Do Come Back Travelling the Smart Way

Whether you are a first time traveller or a frequent flyer, these tips could make your next journey that much more comfortable. Text: Liandri Pretorius Image: © iStockphoto.com

January 2013

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Air Travel Packing Lindsay Quail, owner of online travel agency Computravel, says that prioritising is essential when packing for your overseas holiday. “Make three piles: necessities, almost necessities and luxury items. Take all the necessities, none of the almost necessities and one luxury item. It will be all you need,” she explains. Quail suggests that you never travel with more than 17 kg in your suitcase. This gives you some leeway to allow for shopping goods to fill the rest of the weight restriction allowed (between 20 and 30 kg, depending on which airline you use).

Safe Guard Your Luggage “Do not pack any essential items such as important medication, a camera charger, cell phone chargers and valuable items such as cameras, cell phones and laptops in your luggage. Always carry them in your hand luggage,” says Angela Rogers, owner and director of Four Seasons Travel. She also maintains that it is always a good idea to shrink wrap your luggage and to have a solid padlock. Also be sure to use a coloured strap to make your suitcase recognisable when you collect your luggage from the baggage carousel.

Travel Insurance Never travel without it, says Quail. “The free cover that you may receive from paying by credit card is generally quite limited, and the excesses to be paid are high,” she says. Rather speak to a consultant about other options when purchasing travel insurance.

Travelling Abroad Make sure to have back-up copies of your passport and ID when travelling abroad. Always have your ID on you when travelling, says Quail. She says that although it is wise to leave passports and travel documents in the hotel room safe, you should always carry duplicates with you. “You can also store copies of your documents online via different websites or in your Gmail account which is easily accessed from an internet café.” While travelling abroad you should also be open-minded. “Embrace the different foods and cultures. McDonald’s is McDonald’s anywhere in the world, and by not exploring local eateries you will miss out on amazing memories,” says Rogers. That said, you should also be wary of your safety. “Always look

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confident and self-assured, as pick pockets and criminals look for vulnerable people to steal from or attack,” says Quail.

Road Travel Car Rental When renting a car, Quail says that it is essential to inspect the car carefully beforehand, as you will be held liable for any damages to the car after you have rented it. Also read the conditions of the rental contract closely. Make sure that you understand the terms of the insurance. The customer’s belongings inside the car are often not covered by the insurance in the case of theft. And even if you are not at fault when an accident occurs, you may still be held liable for the excess. You should also not take a rental car across the border without the necessary authorisation, as you will be in breach of contract, says Quail.

Road Tripping According to Indepdenttraveler.com there are a few things you need to bear in mind when taking a road trip. Make sure that if you get pulled over, you have your valid driver’s license with you to avoid fines. Also tend to “division of labour”: Someone must navigate while the other drives. Make sure that the person navigating is good at reading maps and giving directions, otherwise this exercise is futile. Someone must also take charge of planning meals and snacks for the road. Be sure to have all the necessities in your car in case it breaks down, including a spare tire, a jack and jumper cables. Make sure to have ample food, water and a first aid kit in case you need to wait a while for help.

Entertaining Children En Route Babycenter.com suggests these fun activities to keep children busy while on the road: • Pack portable music or DVD players, as well as portable gaming devices. • Make up a ‘fun box’ containing crayons, colouring books and toys. • Older kids may enjoy reading, so make sure to pack a clip-on reading light if you are driving at night. • Coloured pipe cleaners are great for the more creative types and are ideal for making animals and jewellery. n

Travel

Water World Getting Wet in Tsitsikamma

In Khoisan it means “the place of many waters”, which is exactly what you will find in Tsitsikamma on the Garden Route. Rolling Indian Ocean waves on rocky shores, Coca-Cola coloured rivers and tumbling waterfalls surrounded by Eden-like coastal forests and fynbos, while otters, dolphins and whales frolic in the sea. Text: Keri Harvey Images: © Joep Stevens/SANParks

Hikers stroll across a suspension bridge in the Garden Route National Park

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Travel

January 2013

The Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park is characterised by beautiful stretches of coastline. This restaurant in the park makes the most of the spectacular view

Travel

This beacon marks the start of the famous Otter Trail, which traverses 42 km of lush forests and dramatic coastline

Tsitsikamma on the Cape South Coast is a little slice of paradise that seems closer to heaven than to earth. The heart of the area, and the reason for its popularity, is the Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park. When Tsitsikamma National Park was proclaimed back in 1964, it was the first marine park in the whole of Africa. Its purpose was (and remains) to protect the area’s magnificent coastal forest vegetation and adjoining marine environment. In Tsitsikamma there is water everywhere, both fresh and salty. The park runs for 75 km along the coast, from Groot River to Nature’s Valley, and includes seven rivers. Of these, some are well known, such as the mighty Bloukrans and Storms rivers. It is a long, narrow park, reaching just 1,5 km inland and about 5 km out to sea, and protects all that lives within its boundaries. Tsitsikamma is Cape Clawless otter country, as well as home to the rare blue duiker and the colourful Knysna Turacos (Louries), all of which have trails named after them. The park has 12 trails in all, from gentle ambles to muscle wrenching hikes. By far the best known is the Otter Trail, which runs from Storms River to Nature’s Valley. Through ferns and forests and hugging the rugged and dramatically beautiful coastline, the trail traverses 42 km over five days and four nights, with a river crossing on the last day. The first 3 km of the Otter Trail is called the Waterfall Trail. Before turning around for home, hikers can cool off in the foamy waters below a 50 m high waterfall on the edge of the forest.

Take a Hike An easier hiking option is the guided, fully catered and portered Dolphin Trail, where you walk with just a daypack and sleep in luxury accommodation en route. The Dolphin Trail is east of Storms River, and along the way hikers will see fynbos, dairy farms, the area’s iconic fernery and majestic sea views. Luggage is delivered to the overnight accommodation ahead of your arrival each day, which takes the pain out of hiking and leaves only the pleasure. Along the Tsitsikamma coast, the indigenous forests are thick and verdant, almost primeval. You would not be surprised to see trolls or hobbits scurrying about in the undergrowth. Other forest dwellers you may see are curious monkeys or genets darting across the path at dusk, and do look out for the emerald feather flash of the Knysna Turaco. If you manage to see a blue duiker,

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you have looked ‘rare’ in the face.

Underwater Adventures Off shore the diversity continues. Hundreds of fish dart between anemones and glide over the colour washed rocks of the reef, while whales and dolphins frolic in the deeper waters. The Southern Right whales arrive in May to court and mate in a wild splashing act. After calving they head home to Antarctica in November. In their absence the Humpbacks fill in the entertainment slot, breaching and blowing for visitors at the park. Dolphins are part of the marine furniture around here and surf the mountainous waves in droves. True to its essence as a marine park, Tsitsikamma also has a unique underwater trail. Again, it is a first for South Africa. The trail is for snorkellers and scuba divers who follow a beaconed underwater route and partake in marine “game viewing” of soft sea anemones, spiky urchins, delicate tube worms and clouds of fish going about their daily business.

River Recreation Fresh water enthusiasts who prefer to stay above water level also have plenty of choice. There is blackwater tubing (which is a bit like whitewater rafting but it is solo and on a tube) in the characteristic black water of the rivers in the area. The waters here are naturally stained dark by tannins and resemble the colour of Coca-Cola. The outfitters give you wetsuits, helmets and all the ropes and rigging you may need. Then off you go, seawards down the Storms River, negotiating many a rapid and hair-raising moment along the way. While blackwater tubers head downstream, pleasure cruisers head up stream in an open cruise boat that leaves the jetty at Storms River mouth at regular intervals. Idling along at slow speed, the trip gives you a chance to soak up the spectacular scenery of the river, which snakes its way between sheer rock walls on either side. The walls here are so steep that the river is fully lit only at noon. It is an unusual and memorable experience, but then, so is everything you can do in Tsitsikamma, the “place of many waters” and many unique offerings. For general information on the area, visit www.tsitsikamma.info. For more on the national park and boat cruise, visit www.sanparks.org.za; and www.blackwatertubing.net for information on Blackwater Tubing. n

Shumbalala Game Lodge An African Dream In the vast wilderness of South Africa’s hot northern plains, adjacent to the famous Kruger National Park, deep within an ancient tapestry of natural wonder, you will chance upon SHUMBALALA GAME LODGE. From your early morning game drive or bush walk in the Big 5 Thornybush Game Reserve to lazy afternoons at the pool and a sunset safari, tales of the day are told in the wine cellar as you prepare for a sumptuous dinner fire-side al fresco or candle-lit indoors. Choose from four luxury suites or the Presidential Suite, all of which have private viewing decks and picture window bathrooms. Wake up knowing that each day will allow for the adventure and peace of Africa to enter your soul – in a place where the lion sleeps.

Reservations – Thornybush Collection: Tel: +27 (0)11 253 6500 • Fax: +27 (0)11 803 7350 • sales@thornybush.co.za Lodge: Tel: +27 (0)72 8122172 • Fax: 086 6858902 • info@shumbalala.co.za

w w w. s h u m b a l a l a . c o. z a

Feature

Literacy

The Gift of

help2read

Literacy is key: if you can read, you can make something of yourself. “Literacy can break the cycle of poverty,” stresses Marco Andolfi, the business development manager of Cape Town-based NGO help2read. The flipside is that if you cannot read, you are trapped – unemployed and unemployable – or stuck in a low-paid, unskilled job. With this in mind, help2read has designed a model that targets primary school children in under-resourced schools. Text: Lorraine Kearney/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Images: © Ralph Higgo Local NGO help2read currently helps over 100 schools and close to 1,500 primary school children better their reading skills

“help2read is an organisation set up to promote child literacy across South Africa,” Andolfi explains. “We recruit and train local volunteers to help children in primary schools – mostly in grade three – to learn to read.” There are approximately five million illiterate people in South Africa. And schools are not necessarily helping to lower this number: according to the 2006 Pirls Report, South African schoolchildren are three to five years behind their international counterparts. Pirls, the Progress in International Reading Literacy Study, is run

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by the International Association for the Evaluation of Educational Achievement, an independent, international cooperative of national research institutions and governmental research agencies. First conducted in 2001, Pirls reports every five years on the reading achievement of fourth grade children worldwide. “The problem is that most South African children come from a culture of non-reading,” says Andolfi, “and this is added to poorly resourced schools.” There are no books at home; children do not see or listen to their parents reading; they are seldom, if ever, taken to a

Feature The programme relies heavily on the work of trained volunteers who work with every week with the individual children

library and their schools frequently do not have libraries.

How it Works help2read places volunteers, each armed with a wellstocked book box, into participating schools. There are coordinator teachers at these schools who identify the pupils most in need. The volunteers then work one-on-one with these children, 30 minutes every week, for a year. In total, each volunteer spends two hours a week at their school. The long-term nature of the intervention helps to build strong relationships of trust between the child and the volunteer, as well as to build the child’s self-confidence. “We have 686 volunteers working in schools in the Western Cape and Gauteng. It is unpaid work, and many of them are unemployed. It is also a skills development project. We hold regular workshops for our volunteers, and they learn skills that will help them in finding work later,” explains Andolfi. Some volunteers are employed and come in outside of their regular office hours; others are retired people. Each volunteer is strictly vetted, with proper police clearances carried out, before they are trained. Only once this is done are they placed in schools. Of the volunteers, 52% are unemployed and live in disadvantaged areas. They often volunteer as a means of participating in meaningful activities that will enhance their own skills and self-esteem. Women make up 93% of the volunteers. And the programme certainly seems to be working. “In 2011, we had assessments that found that after six months on our programme, learning improved by 14 months,” says Andolfi. Although this school outreach is the core of help2read’s work, it also has other projects to promote literacy, such as Reading Adventures, which they run at local libraries. “We use puppet shows and other activities to spread the love for reading. We are also now undertaking a youth librarian training project together with Equal Education.” Such partnerships are an engine of growth, Andolfi says,

emphasising that there is room for more, particularly with the education ministry. The company has also recently expanded into Namibia, teaming up with the Michelle McLean Children Trust.

Numbers are Growing help2read started as a pilot project in 2005 at Muizenberg Primary School, on the Cape Peninsula. It now works in about 90 schools in the Western Cape, and helps about 1,250 children. It also expanded into Gauteng in 2011, where it works in 15 schools and helps 250 pupils. “In the long run, our major goal is to move into other rural areas, especially in Limpopo, Mpumalanga and the Eastern Cape [where the need is greatest],” says Andolfi. “We must create skills in the areas where people live so that they can make a life there, and are not forced to migrate.” The mission, according to the group, is to “motivate the literate adult population in South Africa to pass on their skills to the next generation, helping children to become confident readers. The key to the future of help2read is the recruitment and development of volunteers from underprivileged communities”. Of course, the need is great. Volunteers and cash are constantly in demand. Corporates can help through donations, and individuals can also make donations – for just R100 a month, for example, you can sponsor a child to learn to read for a year. For R25,000, a company can sponsor an entire school. Donations and sponsorships are also used to buy books. They come from publishing houses, which donate or give an NGO discount; through the US group Books for Africa; and from individuals. Books used in the programme are age-appropriate and in line with school requirements. Donated books that do not fit this profile are sold back to the public. The cash raised through these book sales and other fundraising activities is poured right back into the literacy programme. Visit www.help2read.org for more information on how you can help. n

January 2013

Travel

A Trip Back in

Time

Getting Lost in Lamu

I am dodging splattered donkey droppings as I navigate lanes barely wider than my shoulders, bordered by crumbling Arabic houses on either side. I am lost, but with only so many directions available to me, finding my way out of this warren will be little trouble at all. Like wandering through Venice or Varanasi, losing yourself in Lamu – a city 260 km north of Mombasa in Kenya – evokes a certain je ne sais quoi; a sense of getting nearer to the heart and soul of this time-embalmed place. An ancient Arabic trade port on an island bearing the same name, Lamu is Kenya’s oldest surviving town, mentioned in Greek seafaring documents dating back to the 2nd Century AD. Some claim it is older than Islam. Moneyed Arab merchants held sway over Swahili culture here for 2,000 years, and their trade in ivory, spices, and other precious commodities (including slaves) led to the building of sumptuous homes, a few of which still exist. Islam continues to define Lamu’s character. Most noticeably in its architecture, dress, and the sounds and scents that permeate the air, such as the muhadeen’s call to prayer and the aromas wafting through kitchen windows. Despite being a hippie hangout in the 60s, and then catching the attention of aristocrats and celebrities who have taken to buying old mansions and investing in their restoration, Lamu remains resolutely Old World. It is a kind of rough edged paradise. Ravaged by time and largely neglected, its isolation and relative obscurity gives it special charm. The rhythm of life is, to a large extent, still determined by the tides and phases of the moon. And then there is its sublime island setting. Fringed by coral and with long, empty stretches of beach, there is a languid lifestyle here that lulls even energetic city slickers into a Swahili torpor known fondly as the “Coastal Flops”. Lamu is not necessarily a place of allotted sights. Aside from the Swahili House Museum – where I learn why the traditional beds are so high off the ground (apparently slaves and servants would sleep on the floor beneath their masters) – the gigantic frame of Lamu Fort, and the lacklustre Lamu Museum, this is rather a place for wandering, exploring by chance, getting caught up in the minutiae of daily life. And preferably getting lost in the labyrinthine tangle of narrow pathways. Gingerly sidestepping another large donkey pat, I stray into a restored house that has been retrofitted as a beautiful four bedroom guesthouse, called Baytil Ajaib, the “House of Wonders”. In the sun dappled central courtyard, a staffer points out the fish in the original well, or birika, a bit of olden day eco-technology that works as a natural defence against mosquitoes (the fish feed on the larvae).

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Text: Keith Bain Images: © Simon Cox

Travel An unbroken 13 km beach starts just beyond the famed Peponi Hotel, an Old World charmer in time-stands-still Shela, Lamuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second village

January 2013

Travel With virtually no mechanised land-based transport, Lamu relies heavily on donkeys and dhows, just as the people of this Swahili archipelago have always done

At its best, Lamu is postcard perfect, complete with classic scenes of gently swaying coconut palms, and wooden boats gently bobbing on the water

I head deeper into the sprawl of pathways, until a series of signs leads me to take a break at Bustani, a garden café with a tiny bookstore. They serve a delicious Lamu shake of fruit, milk and mangrove honey, as well as madafu (fresh tender coconut) and home baked cakes. Small as it is, the town of Lamu is divided into over 40 mitaa (areas). Dominated by Harambee Street, Usita wa Mui is the main business area, which also divides the World Heritage listed old stone town from the seafront, which was created in the 19th Century. After the calm and cool of the residential back alleys, Harambee and the seafront are vibrant and comparatively bustling. All along the seafront, I watch dhows being loaded and offloaded, artisans carving chunks of wood, and children playing in the water. There is also a huddle of donkeys at the dedicated sanctuary, an asylum for abused and neglected animals. With no vehicles other than the ambulance tuk tuk, a couple of motorbikes, and the District Commissioner’s seldom seen Jeep, the majority of land-based toil is left to these doe-eyed beasts of burden. Also on the seafront, is the usual onslaught of young men hustling dhow trips or other ‘services’. Several pass themselves off as guides, but getting lost requires no help at all. “Maybe later?” is a standard retort. But later I have plans to be back in

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Shela, Lamu’s second village, where I am staying at the famed Peponi Hotel. Getting there is either a 45 minute walk or a short boat ride. Backed by high dunes, it was in Shela that Lamu started earning its cosmopolitan credentials, when Princess Caroline of Monaco and Prince Ernst of Hanover started spending part of their winters here. Since they ‘discovered’ the place, many more Europeans have rescued old Arab mansions, converting them into glamorous Swahili hideaways. Built in the early 1900s as the governor’s fortress-like home, Peponi’s enjoys a commanding location. Transformed into a gracious hotel by the Danish family that now owns it, it has long been something of a social hub, and regulars mingle with tourists at the bar. Round the back of the hotel is the Jumaa Mosque, possibly the most photographed building in all of Lamu, famed for its unique pepper pot minaret. And, starting virtually from the edge of the hotel, is Lamu’s 13 km stretch of uninterrupted beach where finding seclusion is guaranteed. With the water sloshing against the bastions down below, I pull up a chair in the hotel’s restaurant. Ordering a portion of mangrove crab, steamed with ginger and garlic, I watch the silhouettes of dhow boats bobbing up and down in the moonlight. Later, at the bar, I mingle with the sundowners crowd, gathering tips for new ways to get lost tomorrow. n

Feature

Stage

Athletes of the

Ballerinas of the South African Mzansi Ballet Shannon Glover and Humberto Montero strike a pose in Sleeping Beauty

Many little girls dream of growing up to be pretty ballerinas in pink satin slippers and sparkling tutus. The reality of a career as a ballet dancer is anything but a fairytale however, and these athletes of the stage dedicate their lives to this profession. We recently went backstage with the South African Mzansi Ballet to learn exactly what it takes to call yourself a ballerina. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: ÂŠ John Hogg, Susanne Holbaek, Mzansi Productions

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Angela Maree and Michael Revie show that successful ballet dancers have to be strong, as well as precise and beautiful, in Carmina Burana

The rehearsal studio at the Joburg Theatre has arguably the best view of any such space in the city. With a glass wall framing the city against an impossibly blue sky, I often find myself gazing dreamily outwards. I am the only person in the room enjoying the view, though. The dancers are far too busy to ponder what a pretty day it is. A group runs through their scene, practising steps and perfecting positioning, while all the time the ballet mistress is relentless in her direction. “Leap higher!” “Watch your arm.” “Point your feet, girls!” They dance and pirouette, leap and lift. All of this is seemingly effortless to a casual observer, but as the music ends, and they relax, you can see the sheer exertion in their heaving chests and in the sweat pouring off them. There is no time to rest, though, and even when it is not their turn to dance, they are constantly stretching and moving, flexing their feet and practising their positions in the mirror. “A lot of people think that we just waft around all day in little costumes, flapping our arms and being pretty on stage,” says Angela Maree, a principal ballet dancer with the South African Mzansi Ballet (an amalgamation of the original South African Ballet Theatre and Mzansi Productions). “People don’t understand that it’s a career; it’s what you do all day, every day and it’s your life.” And it’s not an easy job at that, as fellow principal dancer, Shannon Glover, explains: “On stage, it looks glamorous because that’s what it’s meant to look like. Behind the scenes it is literally blood, sweat and tears – it’s not just a cliché, it’s all true. It’s blisters, sore feet, hot salt baths at night, anti-inflammatories, bad days, injuries. These are the realities of being a dancer. It’s the same as any sports person

Angela Maree aspires to be a versatile dancer – suited to a multitude of different types of roles

who does it as a career. It’s just as intense.” Being a ballet dancer is also an all-encompassing career choice. The work does not stop when rehearsals finish at the end of the day. “Being a ballet dancer is a 24 hour job. You are constantly thinking about everything that you have to do to be ready for a performance,” explains Angela. Plus there is little chance of pulling a “sickie”. “When you have blisters on your feet, you still have to put your pointe shoes

January 2013

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on. When you’re having a bad day or you’re a bit sick, you still have to rehearse. You can’t miss a rehearsal, otherwise you fall behind so quickly.” Being a ballet dancer clearly takes so much more than just having a love for the art form and a degree of talent. “It takes a lot of discipline and training,” says Shannon. “You have to be willing to put in all of that hard work.” Plus it comes with other requirements, such as staying in shape and maintaining your weight. Luckily, nowadays, ballet dancers are under less pressure to be stick thin. “These days it’s more about the muscular ‘racehorse look’ and celebrating the beauty of the body, as opposed to being bones on stage,” explains Shannon, who admits to being a complete chocoholic herself. It is, however, the prerogative of every ballet dancer to look after themselves and stay healthy. “I think, like with any job, there are requirements that you have to uphold,” says Kitty Phetla, another one of the South African Mzansi Ballet’s rising stars. “If you respect the art, you have to meet the needs for the art. Some girls are lucky and have naturally thin bodies, and there are some of us that have to watch our diets carefully. But for any career you have to meet its expectations.” In such a physical career, maintaining one’s health is also essential to ensure the longevity of your dancing life. “It really depends on how you look after your body and what you’ve experienced as a dancer. Some people are lucky and hardly ever get major injuries during their careers. They may be able to dance until they are around 40. But your career can also end when you’re 25 because you blow your knee and then you can never dance again,” says Angela. With this kind of uncertainty, many of the dancers have “backup plans” in place (or at least in the back of their minds), or pursue other interests to earn extra cash (like most of the performing arts, ballet dancers are not highly paid). Kitty, for example, who is fast earning a name for herself as one of South Africa’s first professional black ballet dancers, is also a professional model and has a weekly radio show on AlexFM. She credits ballet for giving her the ability to pursue so many of her interests. “All of the things that I am juggling are helped by the discipline I have gained from pursuing ballet as a career. I am really grateful that my life moved in this direction, because it has allowed me to grow mentally, physically and spiritually as a person.” The other dancers express similar sentiments, and it is quite obvious that despite the long hours, the pain, the ugly toes (“I used to always wear closed shoes but now I have gotten over myself,” says Kitty. “I now embrace my beautiful ugly toes and rough feet!”), that all of them love their jobs. They enjoy the camaraderie of working in a company, as Shannon explains: “We are such a tight knit group of friends that we call ourselves family. And we support each other all the time, because we all know how hard this is and we respect each other because of it.” And for many, the magic of the performance is worth all the hard work it takes to get there. “I love being able to portray a character I have been given and to live out a completely

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Shannon Glover is breathtakingly elegant in The Nutcracker

Shannon Glover maintains that professional ballet dancers and professional athletes have a lot in common – both are physically and mentally demanding career choices

Feature

Kitty Phetla is all dynamism and beautiful lines in the dance piece Somebody to Love

different life on stage,” says Angela. Many of the dancers were inspired by the first live ballets they watched, and now enjoy the opportunity to inspire new generations of dancers in turn. “When I was a child and I watched a ballet for the first time it inspired me. If a child is inspired, what more could you want?” says Shannon. Kitty too, serves as something of a role model to other aspiring young black dancers in an art form that is still predominantly white. “I would love to have more black dancers working as professionals in South Africa. We want more black youth to open their minds to the art itself, so if I can inspire people to do that, I think it’s a good thing.” All three girls feel that ballet is growing in South Africa. More international stars are choosing to perform here, and according to Kitty: “Ballet is earning a great, newly found respect.” That said, there are only a handful of local ballet companies, competition for positions is fierce and funding for the arts is woefully low. “Ballet is an art form that is definitely growing and with more support from the media, politicians and the general public, it will only get better,” says Shannon. “But in order to have a company, we need schools and we need funding. A whole line of things need to be done in order to keep it alive.” All three girls have their own professional aspirations: to win lead roles, to be versatile dancers or perhaps one day to be dubbed the pinnacle of the ballet world, a Prima Ballerina. But for now, they are just happy to work hard, do what they love and to be able to proudly call themselves ballerinas. n

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As well as being a ballet dancer, Kitty Phetla is also a professional model and part-time radio DJ

Travel

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Travel

Noordhoeked Discovering the Delights of Cape Town’s Distant Suburb

Noordhoek may well be isolated from the rest of Cape Town, tucked away on the other side of Chapman’s Peak, but that is half of its charm and just the way its residents and visitors like it. Text: Adam Cruise Images: © www.capephotoco.co.za & Adam Cruise

Visitors tend to have a sense of “otherness” about Cape Town. The Mother City is like a quasi-independent principality in that it has a “What-Monaco-is-to-France” feel to it. Residents also have a sense of “otherness”, but theirs is more of a “What-Monte-Carlo-is-to-Monaco” feel. In the 1980s the wacky residents of the Hout Bay Valley felt this keenly and declared themselves a republic. It was a tonguein-cheek gesture which emphasised the fierce independence of the residents, who were largely separated from the rest of the city by mountains and sea. Their splendid isolation made them, well, distinct. These days Hout Bay has lost that sense of isolation. It is now a genuine suburb of greater Cape Town with a modern, familiar feel, despite the faded signs proudly announcing that it is still a republic. These days, this fierce partisan sentiment has migrated south, around the corner, to another isolated valley: Noordhoek. Like Hout Bay, Noordhoek is separated from the rest of the world by an impressive arc of mountains and sea complete with its own sentinel, Chapman’s Peak, which rises abruptly from the crashing surf like the Colossus of Rhodes. Noordhoek is rural and quirky. It is the new boondocks, and the residents are the typical Capetonians of yore – earthy and eccentric. Noordhoek residents are fervidly passionate about their green, oak lined patch, and do not take kindly to outsiders with intentions of paving paradise and putting up parking lots on the commons. “Outsiders” (visitors from Cape Town’s northern suburbs) are often admonished for driving too fast on rainy winter nights when “everyone” ought to know that it is breeding season for the endemic Cape Western Leopard toad. On such nights volunteers brandishing torches and flashing orange lights slow traffic and lend a hand to any toad hopping the gauntlet across Noordhoek’s only thoroughfare.

Spectacular Chapman’s Peak Drive separates Noordhoek from the bustle of Cape Town and is a popular local hiking destination

January 2013

Travel

With its wide seemingly deserted beaches, Noordhoek is popular with horse riders, as is Cafe Roux in town which is happy to serve horses along with their owners!

Surfers make the most of Noordhoek’s chilled atmosphere and great waves

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Consequently, Noordhoek’s natural charm has been preserved, where horses and riders mingle effortlessly with salt of the earth families and their good natured canines on the commons and along the great white expanse of Noordhoek Beach. This beach is so long and broad that one feels completely secluded, even during the height of the December holidays when other Cape beaches groan under the weight of human flesh. Then there is the beloved Chapman’s Peak and its “drive”. As far as the residents are concerned, Chapman’s Peak Drive ought to be reserved exclusively for cyclists, runners and skateboarders. At the very least as a convenient lookout and signal point for shark spotters surveying the turquoise expanse below for the telltale shapes that would send (some) surfers back to hard ground. One small blessing about “Chappies” is that the contentious issue of the new toll plaza is on the Hout Bay side, which means that Noordhoek residents can still freely access the hiking paths that snake up to the top of Chapman’s and Noordhoek Peaks. These pinnacles, they will tell you, boast the best views on the peninsula. “Table what?” is the stock response, should one be bold enough to mention other vistas. People from Noordhoek are not big travellers. They believe they live in Nirvana. It is thus illogical for them to consider why anyone would want to go “over the mountain”. Indeed, I have met a few residents who have uncharacteristically bought holiday homes elsewhere... in Kommetjie, just on the other end of the beach! It is not just the beaches, the surf, the green leafy commons, the fen, the mountains, the tranquillity and the isolation. Noordhoek is also blessed with some seriously sumptuous restaurants and its very own wine estate (Cape Point Vineyards). One restaurant, the Food Barn – thanks to the gastronomic concoctions of acclaimed French-born chef Franck Dangereux – is arguably one of the best in a province reputed to have some of the world’s most unparalleled eating experiences per square mile. The Food Barn may be internationally famed, but its atmosphere is typically local and laid back. It is not unusual for patrons to turn up in their sweaty horse riding or cycling kit, or bare, sand-plastered beach feet and board shorts, and enjoy a five course meal designed for royalty. The Food Barn is but one of a few restaurants in the thatch dominated Noordhoek Farm Village, and while the fare at the other establishments is slightly simpler, it is no less delicious. There is a buzzing deli that morphs into a rambunctious tapas bar at night; a thatched sports tavern called The Toad, owned by rugby personality Bob Skinstad; and an open air luncheonette, Café Roux, where dogs (and sometimes horses) are served along with their owners. So, if you are game for a quirky bare footed, board shorted, beach-shawled experience, take a drive over to the other side of Chappies and linger a little. Chances are you will, like me, become well and truly Noordhoeked. n

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Sun Smart Beach and barbeque weather is here but being outdoors in the sun – unprotected – comes at a price. Text: Beth Cooper Howell Image: © Stock.Xchng

Aside from ruining your complexion – in the form of wrinkles and premature ageing – extreme exposure to the sun can cause skin cancer, eye cataracts, immune system suppression and even reduced vitamin D synthesis. The culprit? Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, which causes blistering sunburn on unprotected surfaces.

Sun Stats Now higher than it was 50 years ago, the current level of UVB light is due to a reduction of ozone in the earth’s atmosphere. As a result, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town and Port Elizabeth have dangerous – to very dangerous – levels of radiation for six months of the year, peaking in the summer months. It is, therefore, vital to arm yourself against sun-related skin problems before you set foot outside. Just a few bad sunburns will increase your risk of contracting melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. This is particularly true before the age 20, when the skin is more sensitive to ultra-violet radiation, the primary cause of this disease. The Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA) warns that South Africans of all races need to take sun protection seriously. We have one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world – second only to Australia. Skin cancer is the most common cancer in South Africa, with 20,000 reported cases and 700 deaths each year. The most diagnosed type is non-melanoma, which develops on sun-exposed areas of the body such as the lips, neck, ears, face and the backs of hands. One of the most dangerous myths about sunburn is that if you have dark skin, you will not burn and therefore cannot get skin cancer. However, everybody is at risk. Although less likely to develop skin cancer than someone with fair skin, people with darker skins are particularly at risk for melanoma – a dangerous form of skin cancer. Acral lentiginous melanoma, an aggressive form of cancer, is more common among people with dark skin. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, these melanomas will tend to appear in areas not often exposed to the sun – and may remain undetected until after the cancer spreads.

Arm Yourself Against the Sun A good sunscreen is one of the best ways to be sun smart – and protect your skin. A water-resistant sunscreen with SPF (Sun Protection Factor) 15 or higher, will help protect your skin against harmful UVB rays. Usually, an SPF 15 rated sunscreen

gives about an hour of protection, but you should always re-apply it after sweating or swimming. SPF strength is less important than frequent application, as well as avoiding the sun between 10h00 and 15h00. At least wear protective clothing during these hours if you have to be in the sun. Remember, too, that you must apply sunscreen around 20 to 30 minutes before you go into the sun. Never expose babies younger than a year to direct sunlight, and ensure that children are well protected at all times. Working with the sun in a sensible, practical way this season will result in a lot of fun and hassle-free relaxation after the winter’s hibernation. Enjoy – and don’t forget the (preferably polarised and UV-protected) shades! n

Top Tips for Being Sun Smart this Season • Keep your lips kissable by using an SPF 15 water resistant, medicated lip balm. • For old-fashioned protection against the heat, wear a widebrimmed hat, which protects your hair as well as your face and often-forgotten ears. Preferably, look for one that drapes down the back of your neck. • Keep topical medications on hand for unexpected eruptions of cold sores/fever blisters, which can be triggered by overexposure to the sun. Your pharmacist will advise on suitable gels to use. • Oily skins are aggravated in the heat and humidity of summer. Start with a soap-free cleanser and finish with a few wipes of alcohol-free toner. Make up and dirt are removed in the process but most of the natural oils will remain, giving you both protection and a pretty complexion. • Uneven pigmentation can result from exfoliating your face with scrubs, sea sponges or loofahs. Use a cleanser and/or moisturiser with an alpha-hydroxy acid, such as glycolic and lactic acid. These exfoliate and improve the skin’s tone and texture. • Sweltering days may cause dehydration, so drink plenty of water. Aim for about 300 ml for every 10 kg of body weight and avoid fizzy drinks and caffeine.

January 2013

Feature

Children of the

Future

In a shrinking, technology-driven world, you probably wonder what the future holds for your child – a precious member of the e-generation. Text: Beth Cooper Howell Images: © iStockphoto.com

If you were reading this in the 1970s, you would have been perplexed at coming across the words Internet, Google, Wikipedia, iPhone, iPad, PC, fax, email, SMS, YouTube, Windows or Macintosh. Google had not even become a new word, let alone a verb. At the time, we made decisions about our careers and future employment based on what existed around us. Many of us became lawyers, journalists, teachers, engineers, doctors, pharmacists, marketing reps or rose from lowly

The Blue Train

beginnings in a company to become retail store managers. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and strange new words such as ‘online content manager’, ‘app developer’, ‘search engine optimisation strategist’ and ‘social media consultant’ are part of the common lexicon. Had we known what lay in store for us today, would we have set aside our marketing rep and engineering aspirations? Possibly, but it is worth noting that 65% of today’s primary school children will reportedly end up

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doing work that has not even been invented yet. Those are the words of Cathy Davidson, Professor of English at Duke University, who says the time is right to give up techno-phobia and to tackle the problems and opportunities of the digital world with good sense, pragmatics, realism and purpose. She adds that we need to take the amazing new tool of the Internet and use it in a way that better serves our lives, our workplace and our schools. But we also need to prepare them as thoughtful and reasoning mature adults. In her book, Now You See it: How the Brain Science of Attention Will Transform the Way We Live, Work and Learn (Viking), Davidson offers parents three things they can do for their children to better prepare them for the future.

Experiment with Scratch Scratch is a multi-media programming language that makes it easy for your child to create his or her own interactive stories, animations, games, music and art – and to share them – on the web. The creators of the programme say that while children create and share Scratch projects, they will also learn important mathematical and computational ideas. This enables them to think creatively, reason systematically and work collaboratively. Davidson says that even if a child has no interest in programming later, it gives him or her skills and expertise at producing the kind of content they are already consuming.

Embark on a Meaningful Project Help your child – but do not lead – in an extended risky

project that has real impact on his community, be it school, neighbourhood, church or community centre. Allow your child (and his or her friends) to shape the project. It should be one that will unlikely be attainable in all respects but which will teach the children to dream big, take risks and scale back if and when they have to. These skills are seldom taught in our classrooms, which have become secure, safe havens that ironically nullify creativity and imagination.

Encourage Liberal Arts Interest and Participation A liberal arts education encourages creative, applied, cross-disciplinary thinking all of which, says Davidson, are as necessary to run your hair salon or motorcycle repair shop as they are to get a law degree. Therefore encourage your child to become interested in literature, fine arts, music or dance. Children need the soul-stirring learning that will let them move, make, sing, create and dream – as they will when they are adults – and these stimulating interests will stand them in good stead regardless of which profession or career path they choose. Career counsellor Jenni Proctor has this to say: “Children need to realise that they do, in fact, have the power to influence the direction that their lives will take. This is a powerful concept and if we as parents and school communities work together to foster these abilities through school work and extra-curricular activities, through responsibility and teamwork and through self-knowledge and community participation, we will be empowering our children to be fulfilled and become the best that they can be.” n

January 2013

Chef

Wunderbar! Chef Jochen Riedel

German born chef Jochen Riedel has worked in Michelin Star restaurants in Europe, showcased his skills in gourmet festivals around the world, whipped up a culinary storm on a cruise ship and even fed the troops in the German Army. More recently, he was instrumental in cementing the excellent culinary reputation of Bosman’s Restaurant at the Grande Roche Hotel, and is now the executive chef of Cape Town’s iconic beachfront hotel, Winchester Mansions. He recently took some time out of his very busy kitchen to chat to us. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Winchester Mansions

What inspired you to become a chef? Jochen Riedel: I always enjoyed food and the thought of being able to cook food from other countries inspired me. Is being a chef a profession you would recommend to others? JR: Absolutely! It is a wonderful profession. It is not always as glamorous as the many TV shows make us believe, but

nonetheless it is a creative field, which is full of variety. As an executive chef, I work with food, staff, figures, press and of course most importantly our guests, the general public. After all, it is them who decide whether we are a success or a failure. I see that you spent some time working as a chef in the German Army – I doubt many other chefs could say that! What did you learn from that experience?

January 2013

Chef

JR: As any ex-army person will tell you, the discipline and the camaraderie are the main things that you remember. Yet over and above that, I learned how to cook for a huge number of people – although not necessarily to the standard I now aspire to. How would you describe your culinary style? JR: Having lived in South Africa for many years now and having had the pleasure to work in great establishments, I enjoy cooking with local ingredients and then adding a bit of a European twist to it. Or the other way round: European classics with an African twist to them. Has the way you cook changed or evolved over the years and if so, how? JR: There is no doubt that cooking is influenced by trends, yet the basics never change. Even today, I still insist on decent stocks and jus, that bubble away on the stove for hours. Without these as a basis, you cannot prepare a decent dish. I enjoy pairing food and wine, and the success of our regular Grapes, Gourmet and Gallery evenings are testimony to the fact that I get it right – well, most of the time at least. I am always amazed by how a wine can change its flavour and structure when matched with food. Why did you decide to move to South Africa? JR: It was initially just something that tickled my fancy – a faraway destination, a great hotel and a great restaurant. Now it has been home for over 14 years! Do you have any specifically South African ingredients that you love to cook with? JR: I love cooking with the fresh game meat that we have available here. Tell us more about the culinary offerings at Winchester Mansions.

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JR: We have established ourselves as a favourite among food and wine pairing enthusiasts, so our monthly five-course, six-wine Grapes, Gourmet and Gallery evenings are a popular choice. We are also proud host to Cape Town’s longest running Jazz Brunch. This is held every Sunday, and offers a true brunch setup, with a full breakfast buffet, followed by a lunch spread, including sushi, and then of course, an amazing dessert and pastry spread by Michael Brown, our pastry chef. Our a la carte breakfasts include the best Eggs Benedict this side of France, while lunches range from a Cobb Salad to wraps and daily specials combining the freshest fish and other ingredients. What has been your proudest moment as a chef to date, and what do you still want to achieve? JR: Of course, it is always great to meet important people and to receive compliments for one’s cuisine. But my proudest moment by far was the birth of my daughter Mieke, the joy of our lives. What I still want to achieve is to make Harveys one of the most successful restaurants in Cape Town. Hotel restaurants, unfairly I believe, too often trail behind independent and standalone restaurants, which is very unfair as we very often offer great food as well as great value for money. For more information on Winchester Mansions, visit www.winchester.co.za. n

Quick Questions • What is your comfort food? Pasta of any kind. • What do you think is the biggest mistake amateur chefs make? Taking shortcuts. • Is there a particular dish you hate to make? Tripe!

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Feature

Exciting

Luxury Just Got

The New Bentley Continental GT V8

South Africans can now sit back in cushioned cobra-style seats, push the start button and hear the intense roar of the engine as they are transported to a world of luxury with the contemporary new Bentley Continental GT V8. Text & Images: ÂŠ Bentley South Africa

January 2013

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Displaying state of the art craftsmanship, iconic design and absolute luxury, Bentley has astounded the world once again with their ability to produce extraordinary examples of engineering encased in a stunning frame. This recent creation by Bentley Motors, the latest in the Continental generation, provides all that you would expect from the iconic brand – from exhilarating power to an effortless driving experience. Although the car provides the type of luxury status one would expect from a Bentley, the GT V8 is also not your typical Bentley. Boasting a more youthful and fashionable style, the Continental GT V8 is exciting and adventurous – encouraging its driver to explore its extensive range of features and enjoy the experience of driving, wherever the destination. The new 4.0 litre, twin turbocharged V8 Continental GT coupé allows drivers to experience maximum power of 373 kW at 6,000 rpm and 660 Nm across virtually the entire rev range from 1,700 to 5,000 rpm. This provides exhilarating performance and effortless power delivery. Combined with a new close-ratio eight-speed automatic transmission, this translates into a 0-100 km/h sprint time of 4.8 seconds for the GT coupé and a top speed of 303 km/h. The new V8 engine features variable displacement with a highly sophisticated engine management system, ensuring a seamless and imperceptible transition from V8 to V4 mode under light throttle load. The Continental GT V8 commands respect from the instantly recognisable roar of its engine to its distinguishable black gloss matrix grille with its chrome frame and centre bar displaying a red enamel Bentley ‘B’ badge. The sporty and contemporary attitude of this car can be seen inside and out from the unique chromed ‘figure eight’ exhaust tailpipes in the rear to the modern and opulent interior.

The Blue Train

Inside the cabin, Eliade cloth headlining, new Dark Fiddleback Eucalyptus veneers, and optivonal two-tone leather colour split help carry through the car’s fresh, sporty design while providing driver and passengers with ultimate comfort. The new Continental V8 models sport 20” alloy wheels as standard but drivers can also opt for a 21” six-spoke design which is available in dramatic Diamond Black (exclusive to the Continental V8) or Diamond Silver finishes. Both Continental V8 models feature a state-of-the-art, all-wheel drive system employing an advanced Torsen differential and a 40:60 rear biased power split. This ensures safe yet dynamic sports car handling in all road conditions. The model also commits to the increasingly important issue of the environment by delivering a 40% improvement in fuel efficiency and CO2 emissions. The Continental GT V8 achieves some of the most outstanding levels of fuel efficiency in the luxury performance sector, exhibiting the ability to travel over 800 km on a single tank of fuel. The new Continental GTC V8 model will be offered beneath the flagship 6.0 litre, 12 cylinder GTC, which continues to excite customers with its combination of silken refinement and the ultimate power of the twinturbocharged W12 Continental engine that, in its most potent form, delivers an astonishing 631 break horse power. Bentley’s undeniable engineering strength and innovative approach towards the industry have cumulated to provide the exquisite Continental GT V8. The South African market is yet to experience a car such as this. One that can provide unlimited access to a luxury lifestyle driving experience merged with superior technology to provide exhilarating driving experiences. For more information, visit www.southafrica.bentleymotors.com. n

Accommodation Guide

Azanzi

Beach Hotel

An intimate, all-suite boutique hotel on the eastern shoreline of the mystical Zanzibar Island. The central guest entertainment and guest areas of Azanzi flow into vast uninterrupted stretches of silk-like sand. The hotel suites feature an array of guest comforts designed to pamper you during the quieter moments of your fun-filled days. Your hosts will be delighted to arrange any number of activities for you, including snorkeling, diving, dhow trips and historic village tours. Alternatively, you may simply want to laze in the shallows of the water’s edge or cool off in the pool.

Mkokotoni Matenwe

Kiwengwa Mangapwani

Contact

Pongwe

Azanzi Beach Hotel • Call: +27 11 781 1661 • E-mail: res@anthology.co.za • Website: www.azanzibeachhotel.com Stone Town

WiFi

Universal AC

Spa/Pool/Gym

S,P

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

Wheelchair Friendly

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Chwaka

Bwejuu Paje Jambiani Makunduchi

Kizimkazi

Accommodation Guide

A fusion of contemporary luxury and classic charm, the Mount Grace Country House & Spa is an elegant countryside hideaway. A fusion of contemporary luxury and classic charm, the Mount Grace Country House & Spa is an elegant countryside hideaway. The picturesque hotel started life as a private residence and farmhouse and has hosted a number of dignitaries and A-list visitors over the years. Located on a hillside with un-spoilt views of the valley and boasting some ten acres of manicured gardens as well as pristine bushveld, the sprawling property is a balm for the city-weary soul.

Contact

access 45 minutes drive from Pretoria

Mount Grace Country House and Spa • Call: +27 14 577 5600 • E-mail: reservations@mountgrace.co.za • Website: www.mountgrace.co.za

WiFi

Universal AC

Spa/Pool/Gym

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child-Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria-Free

Conferencing Facilities

Wheelchair-friendly

January 2013

Restaurant Guide

Bosman’s Grande Roche Hotel

An aura of timeless elegance sets the tone for Bosman's Restaurant at the five-star Grande Roche Hotel, where fine dining and attentive service are the order of the day. Situated in the Manor House at the Grande Roche Hotel in the Paarl Winelands, this 70-seater restaurant and terrace has a multitude of awards to its name including being listed as one of the top ten restaurants in South Africa, as well as one of the top 100 restaurants in the world. These richly-deserved accolades are recognition of the superb harmony of flavours and textures that are the hallmark of a truly magnificent dining experience combined with unsurpassable service and spectacular views across the Paarl Valley.

Contact

Bosman's Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl Winelands • Call: +27 21 863 5100 • Email: reserve@granderoche.co.za • Website: www.granderoche.com

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access 50-minute drive from Cape Town

Restaurant Guide

Dutch East Franschhoek

The menu of homely but stylish Dutch East Restaurant is inspired by the seasons, combining local produce with eastern flavours. Dutch East Restaurant serves a variety of simple, eastern-inspired dishes. Head Chef Pasch du Plooy was introduced to eastern ingredients, flavours and combinations at a very young age. Later on he started to incorporate these ingredients into his style of cooking. Techniques like pickling and searing, as well as ingredients such as soy mirin and sesame have become staples in his kitchen. This makes for an eclectic and exciting dining experience in the heart of Franschhoek.

Contact

access One hour drive from Cape Town

Dutch East Restaurant – Franschhoek • Call: +27 21 876 3547 • Email: info@dutcheast.co.za • Website: www.dutcheast.co.za

January 2013

History

In the Tracks of a

Legend The History of The Blue Train

For over half a century, The Blue Train in South Africa has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent travelling experiences. Officially named The Blue Train in 1946, the train’s predecessors trace their history to the 1890s and the discovery of diamonds and gold. Text & Images: © The Blue Train

For the empire builders of old, the unchartered African interior was the landscape of a dream in the making. A dream that would etch its course in parallel lines that snaked their way northward from the Atlantic shoreline, conquering the distance from Cape Town to Cairo. This dream was not to be, as the Great African Railway reached only as far as a bridge across the gorge of the Zambezi River, overlooking the thundering smoke of the Victoria Falls. But in the fading years of the 19th century, the discovery of gold and diamonds drew thousands to the edge of the continent, and those lines of tempered steel began to bear the burden of industry, commerce, and society on the move. Soon, as the moneyed classes made their presence felt, the network added leisure travel to its list of duties, and in the slipstream of leisure came luxury. The Union Limited and the Union Express, ferrying passengers between the mailships of Cape Town harbour and the goldfields of the Witwatersrand, were the standardbearers of steam-powered opulence in the easy-living heyday of the 1920s, boasting everything from card tables to hot and cold water on tap. A coat of royal blue and cream would later give the trains their distinctive livery, and it was from this line, in these shades, that The Blue Train – a “Palace on Wheels” – would ride the rails to legendary status. Withdrawn from service during the dark days of World War Two, extensively refurbished and modernised in the seventies and nineties, The Blue Train went on to define a new era of luxury travel, making the switch from steam to electric and diesel, linking veld to sea, and tradition to progress, with a sense of style, grace, and mesmerising power that have never come close to being matched.

The Blue Train

History

Keeping Up With Technology From the Age of Steam to the Age of the Internet, The Blue Train has kept on track with ever-changing technology. In the process, it has lost none of the charm that anchors it to a bygone era. In its earliest incarnation, as a direct descendant of the Union Limited and Union Express that plied their way between Johannesburg and the Cape coast, The Blue Train thundered down the rails at the command of a mighty steam locomotive. A wisp of romance still lingers from that coal-fired era, clouding the memory of an energy source that proved to be less powerful, less efficient, and far more difficult to maintain than its whisper-quiet replacement. Today, the dual Blue Train sets, differentiated only by their number of suites and the option of a Conference Car that doubles as an Observation Lounge, are hauled by a fleet of diesel or electric locomotives. Whatever the motive, The Blue Train glides through the countryside at a maximum service speed of 90 km/h, ensuring that the noise level of 55 decibels, somewhere between the sound of soft rainfall and normal conversation, is never exceeded. Inter-suite sealing ensures utter privacy for guests. In the world of ever-shrinking boundaries, ever-intensifying demands, rail travel in the grand old tradition has become a luxury in itself. The luxury of time: time to indulge, time to reflect, time to savour sights, sounds, senses and sensations. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feel it from the moment you step into your suite, transformed by a magical act of alchemy from an elegant, spacious lounge by day, into a sanctuary of comfort and slumber by night. Bringing together cultures and travellers from across the globe, The Blue Train is an exclusive society on the move â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one that will undoubtedly prevail for years to come. n

January 2013

Train Layout

The Blue Train