The Blue Train | May 2010 by Brett Rothmann

www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Complimentary Guest Magazine

May 2012

The Garden Route • Kalymnos • SA’s Horse Trails

contents 24 www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Hanlie Kotze Letter from the Executive Manager

Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Letter from the Editor

From the Mailbag Passenger Letters and Comments

NEWS Keeping You Informed

EVENTS Dates To Diarise

BITS Need To Know

THE SILVER LINING OF HIKING Urban Trails

BIRDS OF A FEATHER ‘Twitcher’ Tourism

THE ROAD TO RICHES The Garden Route

EQUESTRIAN BALLET The Beauty of the Lipizzaners

LETTING THEIR LIGHT SHINE The Shine Programme

The Blue Train

Complimentary Guest Magazine

May 2012

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The Garden Route • Kalymnos • SA’s Horse Trails

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contents

FROM KALYMNOS WITH LOVE Meditteranean Magic

THE IMPORTANCE OF EQ Emotional Intelligence

SOUTH AFRICA FROM THE SADDLE Horseback Trails

THE BUSINESS OF SPORT Fun on the Field, Funds in the Bank

IN A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN The One

THE SOVEREIGN OF SILVER SERVICE Chef Bernice Warner

THE SOUL OF A SPORTS CAR The Jaguar XF 2-2 Diesel

IN THE TRACKS OF A LEGEND The History of The Blue Train

SUITE LAYOUT Coach Info

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42 46 50 52

56 58 62 64 58

Letter from the Executive Manager Hanlie Kotze A warm welcome to all. Indaba The month of May is very significant in the Southern African travel and tourism industry as it marks Indaba, Africa’s largest travel trade show, which runs from 12th to 15th May 2012 at the Inkosi Albert Luthuli Convention Centre in Durban. Indaba is not only the largest tourism marketing event in Africa, but one of the top three tourism events on the global calendar. It showcases a wide variety of Southern Africa’s best tourism products and attracts international visitors and media from the world over. The Blue Train team will be at the show to showcase our beautiful product, discuss possible strategic alliances for future business and to also touch base and strengthen relations with our existing clientele. The Blue Train stand will be situated at the Main ICC Hall 3, at stand number ICC J007. It should prove to be a great display once again and we look forward to seeing everyone there.

Sporting Highlights As we approach mid-year, the South African events calendar heats up with some world class events in the offering; the two most notable ones being the Comrades Marathon and the Vodacom Durban July. The Comrades Marathon is one of the world’s most famous ultra-marathons and is run over a distance of approximately 90 km between the KwaZulu-Natal cities of Durban and Pietermaritzburg. The Vodacom Durban July is also a race, but of the four-legged variety. Held on the first Saturday of July each year, at Durban’s Greyville Racecourse, ‘The July’ is Africa’s greatest horseracing event. The Blue Train will be available to companies who wish to charter it for these events. What an entrance to arrive at the Vodacom Durban July in the elegance, style and grace The Blue Train is so well known for! Warm regards,

Hanlie Farewell to a Legend On a sad note we recently bid farewell to a gentleman we referred to as ‘The Godfather of The Blue Train’ – one of the true masterminds behind The Blue Train’s operations. Robin Dowie, a much respected man in his field, was The Blue Train’s engineer and was instrumental in pioneering the design and assembly of this internationally-renowned tourism attraction. Our deepest condolences go out to his beloved family, friends and colleagues. May he rest in eternal peace.

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Letter from the Editor Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu

While we should admittedly appreciate them all year round, May always casts a stronger spotlight on the mothers of the world. Mothers Day reminds us to take that extra time out to show our appreciation and gratitude to our mothers and grandmothers and mothers-in-law, for all that they have done for us. And for many of us that list is in exhaustive. How does one ever begin to repay all of the time she spent listening and dispensing advice, the sheer number of times she lent you her shoulder to cry on, her unfailing love, fierce loyalty, and her unwavering faith in you? I do not think there is a single adequate way to say thank you, other than perhaps by trying to emulate these amazing characteristics in your own life. Show your compassion for others by dedicating some of your time and your resources to those less fortunate than you; exercise your empathy by forgiving wrongs that were done to you and not judging those who did them; practise loyalty by refusing to partake in malicious gossip and by defending those who are the subject of it. Take the time to actively listen to others and not just to hear them; become comfortable with putting the needs of others before your own (within reason), and take pride in the accomplishments of your friends and family and colleagues. Bake that cake for a friend just because you know it would cheer them up, always remember to wish people happy birthday, be quick to give praise and a kind word when needed, but also a home truth or two when warranted. Touch base with the important people in your life on a regular basis just to let them know that you are thinking of them, try to be a good role model to others in the way that you treat others and yourself and always be available for a feel-good hug or hand squeeze when needed. Just imagine how different our lives would be if we all consciously tried to emulate the very best qualities of our mothers and grandmothers. There would certainly be a whole lot more love, tolerance and compassion in the world, and we could always do with more of that. Happy Mothers Day.

Noeleen

editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za Pretoria, Gauteng Tel: +27 12 334 8459 Fax: +27 12 334 8464 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 449 2672 Fax: +27 21 449 3338 United Kingdom Tel: +44 1403 243619 Fax: +44 1403 217558 Central Europe Tel: +44 2089 245126 Fax: +44 2089 245126 United States Tel: 001 305 864 4569 Fax: 001 305 675 7693

EDITOR Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

PUBLISHER Deidre Theron-Loots deidre@africanspiritmedia.co.za African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG (843 624) Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@africanspiritmedia.co.za

Cover Image Knysna Harbour © Knysna Tourism

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MANAGING EDITOR Nicky Furniss nicky@tcbgroup.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Estelle van der Westhuizen +27 84 821 7257 estellevdw@tcbgroup.co.za Nikki de Lange +27 83 415 0339 nikki@tcbgroup.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha +27 83 629 8818 IMAGES © iStockphoto.com

DESIGN & LAYOUT Joanne Mc Laren joanne@virtualdavinci.co.za Virtual Da Vinci Creative Room

PRINTING Business Print Centre, Pretoria CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Bronwyn Burns, Keith Bain, Ron Toft, Gary Hirson, Emily van Rijswijck/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Carla van der Spuy, Richard Holmes, Bernard K Hellberg, Nicky Furniss, Chris Waldburger/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Dr Liz Pretorius. The Blue Train Magazine is published monthly by African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd. Opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd, The Blue Train or any of their clients. Information has been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. No responsibility can be accepted for errors and omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in this publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without specific written permission from the Publisher. Copyright © 2012. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd and/or the individual contributors. All rights reserved.

Liliesleaf is one of Johannesburg's best kept secrets! Nestled deep in the Leafy Suburb of Rivonia, Liliesleaf is an exciting, interactive and experiential heritage site, of memory and legacy. Liliesleaf showcases and depicts an important era and epoch in South African history and represents a significant turning point in the struggle for democracy. It was from Liliesleaf that the Secretariat and the High Command of MK, planned, debated and strategised a path that played a seminal role in changing the course of South African history. Come on a journey of inspiration.Through the voices of Stalwarts like Nelson Mandela, Govan Mbeki, Ahmed Kathrada, Denis Goldberg,Walter Sisulu and others you will hear the struggle for the liberation of South Africa being planned and debated.

www.liliesleaf.com Telephone: 011 803 7882 Marketing: MariaD@llt.co.za Yolande@llt.co.za

From the Mail Bag

Passenger Letters & Comments

The chef, Esther, provided excellent vegetarian meals. Israel and Fritz (dining car waiters) were very friendly and helpful, and Enoch, our butler, was also very good. It was an experience of a lifetime. Ms C Koslou, USA The meals were top class. Our butler, Fritz, was fantastic. The experience was, as always, of the highest quality. All the staff were outstanding. Well done Blue Train! Mr & Mrs M Polluk, South Africa The food selection and quality was outstanding. Our butler, Angela, was excellent. Israel (dining waiter) was very friendly and helpful. All the staff were great and turned the trip into an unforgettable experience. We hope to come back a second time. Ms S Warrlich, Germany We loved the trip. All the staff were very friendly and helpful and everyone made us feel very welcome. Mr W Wieke, Holland It was an excellent experience. If we return to South Africa, we will consider taking The Blue Train again and will recommend it to friends and family. Mr & Mrs Enevoldsen, Belgium What a superb, wonderful experience. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the trip is definitely one to be repeated. Mr SA Robinson, UK For our first luxury train travel, it was a great experience. We will be back! Mr & Mrs CP Hendickx, Belgium Esther (chef) provided a great selection and quality of meals. It was an outstanding experience. We travelled like royalty. Mr & Mrs Van Joolen, Holland

Do you have a complaint or comment that you would like to share with us? Please fill in the guest questionnaire that is available in your suite or alternatively send an email to info@bluetrain.co.za. Please also feel free to send your photos from your trip on The Blue Train to the same address. Comments may be edited, shortened or translated from the original language.

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news A Prestigious Hat Trick In a major coup, The Blue Train showed once again why it should indeed be on every local and tourist’s itinerary when it was awarded the highly contest 2011 World’s Leading Luxury Train award at the World Travel Awards prize giving ceremony in Doha, Qatar recently. The Blue Train, which combines the luxury of the world’s leading hotels with the charm of train travel, outshone its competitors and claimed it’s well deserved first spot. It has built an incredible legacy and has now won this award for an impressive three consecutive years. Since their inception 17 years ago, The World Travel Awards – known as the “Oscars of the Travel Industry” – have become an important measure of excellence in the travel and tourism industry. These prestigious awards aim to stimulate innovation and creativity in the industry; to ensure that travellers receive exceptional value, and to acknowledge the organisations that contribute significantly to the industry.

The Blue Train is now a Heart Save Area Several Blue Train staff recently completed a Heart Saver CPR/AED Course and are now proficient in the necessary knowledge and practical skills to recognise life threatening cardio-pulmonary emergencies on board. This will enable them to respond swiftly and effectively in the event of an emergency. The staff will be aided by the Samaritan Pad 500P with CPR Advisor, which is a small, portable and easy to use device, which helps to restore a pulse in most heart attack victims. It also aids rescuers by giving precise visual and voice instructions on how to use the device and how to administer effective CPR.

Promoting Excellence The Blue Train Magazine was gratified to receive two awards recently at the 2011 SA Publication Forum Awards, which recognise excellence in the custom publishing field. Publications that receive a score of 75% or above in a particular category are awarded certificates of excellence, and The Blue Train Magazine received certificates of excellence for both Design and Writing. This serves as a wonderful vote of confidence for the magazine and its team who will continue to strive to improve the publication even further.

The Blue Train Wins Again The Blue Train has proven once more why it is considered the world’s best luxury train by walking away with yet another

The Blue Train

prestigious international award. At the Condé Nast 12th Annual Readers’ Travel Awards held in London in September 2010, The Blue Train was voted as the “Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Favourite Specialist Train”. The runner-up in the “Specialist Train” category was the Venice Simplon-Orient Express. Other nominations included The Ghan in Australia, the Palace on Wheels in India and The Royal Scotsman. The Blue Train was the only South African company to win one of the 27 categories – although South Africa did come in ninth in the “Favourite Holiday Destination” category. “To say that we are delighted with this award would be an understatement! To be nominated alone is such a great achievement, but to win your specific category is enormous! Credit must go to everyone associated with this brand – our employees, representatives, all our strategic partners and suppliers for their effortless passion and commitment to this “Blue Jewel”. Together, through hard work and dedication, we can achieve much more,” commented Hanlie Kotze, Executive Manager of The Blue Train. She added: “With a long-standing reputation of South African hospitality, The Blue Train symbolises the very core of luxury train travel. It is exquisitely crafted and appointed to achieve a degree of unequalled luxury to satisfy not only the senses of every guest, but to also touch their souls. This is the very essence of why we are known as a window to the soul of South Africa.”

Business “Unusual” Charters A special tailor-made, all-inclusive charter on The Blue Train is a wonderful way for guests to explore South Africa’s landscapes and landmarks, lasting from a few hours to several nights. From a VIP cocktail breakfast, lunch or dinner, to a business “unusual” conference, a product launch with a difference, a special wedding reception, staff incentives or even a birthday celebration, the experience is up to you. The Blue Train follows any route, provided the rail networks are compatible to its technology.

For Further Information For more information on The Blue Train’s exciting packages and to read the booking conditions for advance reservations, visit www.bluetrain.co.za or contact The Blue Train reservation office in Pretoria on +27 12 334 8459 or Cape Town on +27 21 449 2672. Email any general enquiries or feedback to info@bluetrain.co.za. n

events Bottles and Barrels Taking place from 4th to 6th May at the Coca-Cola Dome in Johannesburg, and 8th to 10th June at Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium in Port Elizabeth, The Wine Show serves as one of the country’s best showcases of all things viticulture-related. Since its launch in 2006, The Wine Show has become well known for its unique blend of edutainment, colourful stands, mouthwatering food and South Africa’s finest wineries. Connoisseurs and wine novices alike will have the rare opportunity to sample winning wines from the 2011 International Wine & Spirits Competition. Confirmed exhibitors for both shows include Blaauwklippen, Diemersfontein, Gabriëlskloof, Raka, Simonsig Estate, The Winery of Good Hope and Topaz Wine Company. Tickets are available from Computicket. For more information, contact +27 21 888 8803 or visit www.wineshow.co.za.

The Home of Grand Ideas For great design and décor tips to take your home to the next level, make a point of popping into the Grand Designs Live Home & Garden Show from 25th to 27th May at the Coca-Cola Dome in Johannesburg. Landscape and interior design experts will be on hand to offer advice, and the show promises to showcase the latest trends so that visitors can make informed and on-trend decisions in the pursuit of their own grand designs. This year, compliments of Growa-Tree, the first 1,000 people through the door at Grand Designs Live will also receive a Grow-a-Tree pack to plant at home. For ticket bookings or more information, contact +27 11 835 1565 or visit www.granddesignslive.co.za.

Wine & Only The One & Only Cape Town has plenty of treats in store for gourmands and wine lovers alike this winter. The resort’s award winning sommelier, Luvo Ntezo, and renowned chef, Reuben Riffel, have collaborated with some of the country’s top winemakers to present a number of fine wine pairing dinners. The evenings are intimate and give guests plenty of opportunity to chat with Luvo and the winemaker as they enjoy the food and wine. Join Pieter Ferreira of Graham Beck Wines on 30th May when he will be showing some of his favourite food-friendly wines, including his award winning Cap Classiques. He will be followed by Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof Wines, the Platter Guide’s Winery of the Year, on 27th June, and La Motte Estate will be showcasing their organic Pierneef collection on 25th July. To reserve your table, contact +27 21 431 4511 or email restaurant.reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com.

The Blue Train

events The Best of Brandy Join in the spirit at Fine Brandy Fusion at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg from 23rd to 25th May. Visitors can look forward to sampling brandies from some of the country’s leading distillers as well as from a growing number of winemakers who are now producing small batches of their own individualistic brandies. You can also sip on exciting new brandy cocktails at the Fusion Bar, including Ama-Lekkerlicious, the country’s official new brandy cocktail, which sports a delicious combination of cranberries, peaches and oranges with a funky sherbet finish. Due to the overwhelming success of the tutored tasting and master classes initiated last year, the programme will be continued and expanded this year, under the auspices of Dave Hughes, a master distiller and international wine and spirits judge. Here brandy aficionados and enthusiastic novices alike are sure to discover a new appreciation for this refined and complex, yet accessible, spirit. Tickets are available from Computicket or at the door. For more information, email info@brandyfusion.co.za or visit www.brandyfusion.co.za.

A Winelands Feast Head down to Hartenberg Wine Estate in Stellenbosch on 2nd June to indulge in superb wine and delicious artisinal fare at the Feast of Shiraz & Charcuterie @ Hartenberg. Besides Hartenberg’s own standout Shiraz wines, other iconic cellars who will be sharing their exceptional renditions of this spicy varietal on the day include Boekenhoutskloof Winery, Cederberg Private Cellar, La Motte, Rust en Vrede Estate, Saxenburg and Thelema Mountain Vineyards. Chefs from various restaurants, bistros and cafés will also be creating a delicious array of dishes to entice palates and complement this hardy varietal, including charcuterie, gourmet cheeses, bread and olives. Tickets are available online at www.webtickets.co.za. For more information, contact +27 21 865 2541, email info@hartenbergestate.com or visit www.hartenbergestate.com.

All Hands to Port! The Klein Karoo town of Calitzdorp, the Port Capital of South Africa, is the place to be over the weekend of 18th to 20th May as visitors from across the country make their way to the annual Absa Calitzdorp Port & Wine Festival. Visitors can look forward to sampling fine ports from some of the country’s top producers including Axe Hill, Boplaas, Calitzdorp Cellar, De Krans and Withoek. The organisers have also planned a comprehensive line-up of entertaining events such as a unique cooking demonstration using Tinta Barocca, Touriga Nacional and Port wines from Calitzdorp; tractor rides to the various cellars; and the ever popular “Chocolate and Port/Wine Decadence” hosted by Belgium trained chocolatier Marita Lamprecht and Cape Wine Academy Master Junel Vermeulen. Tickets are available from Computicket. For more information, visit www.portwinefestival.co.za.

May 2012

bits Art Online Iziko Museums has partnered in a pioneering continental first with online giant Google to showcase our nation’s spectacular art collection to the world – online. The Google Art Project Version 2 was launched in April as a follow up to Version 1, which was launched last year and included works from the Tate Britain and the New York Museum of Modern Art. An initial selection of approximately 150 images from the Iziko South African National Gallery (ISANG) will be included in the art project. These were selected from each genre in the permanent collection including Historical Paintings and Sculpture, Modern Painting and Sculpture, Prints and Drawings, Photography and New Media, Contemporary Art and Traditional African Art. The ISANG is one of only two collections from the African continent to be selected to feature in the art project. Visit www.iziko.org.za for more information.

Have a Special Moment with Mum Treat your mum to a special day out at The Eatery at Durbanville Hills Wines in Cape Town this Mother’s Day, 13th May. The refreshing Durbanville Hills Merlot Rosé will be served on arrival, paired with either a Sauvignon Blanc mussel pot or delicious caramelised onion and blue cheese quiche. A buffet selection of chicken stuffed with wild mushrooms and spinach, roast beef with Pinotage and baby onion sauce, and Norwegian salmon will follow alongside a healthy selection of fresh vegetables and a sweet potato and feta bake. A homemade Turkish Delight cheesecake and chocolate dipped strawberries will ensure a spectacularly sweet ending to the meal. For reservations and more information, contact +27 21 558 1337 or email info@dheatery.co.za.

For Coffee Connoisseurs Be a barista in your own home with the new flagship Miele CM5200 freestanding coffee machine. Capable of making two beverages simultaneously simply at the touch of a button, this second generation coffee machine enables the professional creation of the perfect cup of coffee at home. The Miele CM5200 offers a wider choice of beverages than ever before – including single or double shot espresso, cappuccinos or lattes – and thanks to its unique new double spout, the Miele CM5200 is also one of the first coffee machines of its kind that is able to produce two drinks at the same time. The quantity of ground coffee, the brew temperature, the pre-brew setting and the volume of coffee delivered can also be adjusted to suit your individual tastes. The Miele CM5200 comes with a full two-year guarantee. Visit www.miele.co.za or contact +27 11 875 9000 to locate your nearest stockist.

The Blue Train

bits The Perfect Island Retreat Fans of Banyan Tree Hotels and Resorts are sure to welcome the news of the opening of Angsana Balaclava – right on their doorstep in Mauritius. Only a four-hour flight from Johannesburg, and just 15 minutes away from the capital of Port Louis, Angsana Balaclava is ideally situated along picturesque Turtle Bay which is famed for its turquoise sea and sandy beaches. Angsana Balaclava is a charming and intimate five-star boutique resort featuring an award-winning spa, 51 suites and a villa with four bedrooms. Guests can choose between Garden Suites (72 m²), Spa Suites (84 m²) or exclusive Beach Front Suites (125-180 m²), most of which feature their own private plunge pools. The Angsana Spa offers nine treatment rooms, a yoga pavilion, a vitality pool and a Hamman. For reservations and enquiries, please contact your nearest travel agent or email reservations-balaclava@angsana.com.

Inspired by Nature Fleur du Cap, known for wines made the way nature intended with minimal human intervention, has given new impetus to its mantra, “Inspired by Nature”, through a collaborative venture with South African functional art icon, Carrol Boyes. Fleur du Cap approached Carrol Boyes designer, Madeleine Morgan, to design functional wine-related objets d’art in her newly launched Leaf range. The result is a beautiful New Leaf bottle stopper in pewter. With the changing seasons, Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Merlot 2009 is a perfect fit to showcase the stopper. This full-bodied wine has a complex nose of concentrated strawberry and red berry fruit with hints of white chocolate, subtle mint nuances and spicy oak notes. The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Merlot 2009 is available at boutique wine stores and leading restaurants. The Carrol Boyes New Leaf pewter bottle stopper is available at Carrol Boyes outlets countrywide and at the cellar door at Die Bergkelder.

A Portly Evening Ender Keep the cold at bay this winter by enjoying a glass of De Krans Espresso, the perfect winter warmer. Classified as a dessert wine rather than a port, the De Krans Espresso has been produced using the classic port varietals Touriga Naçional and Tinta Barocca. This unique wine has a deep ruby red colour with pleasant aromas of freshly ground coffee and dark berry fruit. It has a solid structure with a lingering, aromatic finish and is best served at room temperature in winter, or slightly chilled in summer as the perfect ‘dessert’ to end off a delicious meal with good friends. Packaged in an elegant 375 ml frosted glass bottle, the De Krans Espresso is available at most retail outlets nationwide. For more information, contact the cellar on +27 44 213 3314 or email dekrans@mweb.co.za.

May 2012

Travel

The Silver Lining of

Hiking Urban Trails

The Blue Train

Travel

Despite not being an avid fan of abandoning his television in favour of a weekend of outdoor activity, Gary Hirson recently hiked Cape Town’s Hoerikwaggo Trail and, surprisingly, ended up enjoying it. Text: Gary Hirson Images: © Gary Hirson and iStockphoto.com

I just do not get hiking. What is it about carrying a chafing backpack loaded with dehydrated food, being harassed by mosquitoes, and sweating profusely in the midday heat while plodding from point A to point B? After all, we live in an age where we can watch other people sweating on TV, and usually just an arm’s length from our beer-filled refrigerators. You can only imagine my disgust, then, when my girlfriend casually mentioned that she had just booked us on a hike during a weekend of superlative sport. I relaxed somewhat, though, when she mentioned that we only had to carry small day packs; the tented camps were already set up, and that there would be a 70-year-old woman accompanying us. Urban trails run through the mountains, forests and fringes of cities. The one we were about to tackle starts in the Southern Peninsula, near Cape Point, and makes its way towards the city by the way of the back stage of Table Mountain. In four days we were to cover a distance of 69 km. So here I was in Simonstown with 11 other people who were considerably happier – and fitter – than I was. At least the 70-year-old woman was also there. This gave me a small fraction of hope, as all I would have to do was stay ahead of her in order to save face. The first day, we were told, was going to be roughly 14 km of relatively flat sand and should take four to five hours. With one guide leading and the other bringing up the rear,

the 14 of us headed towards home – which we would only reach in four days’ time. Making sure that the septuagenarian stayed behind me, I started out mid-pack. The first kilometre was great, I could even lift my head as I walked. But soon my feet were aching, and my knees creaking. All I could hear over my gasping breathe was “blah, blah, blah” as my fitter companions effortlessly discussed a series of random topics. Even the 70-year-old was laughing and joking with one of the guides, much to my irritation. Mid-afternoon, they stood; I sat, at the top of a ridge overlooking one of the southern-most lighthouses in Africa. It was an evocative sight, made even more beautiful by my light headedness and the stars flashing before my eyes. Below us, nestled at the foot of the ridge – and even more breathtaking than the lighthouse – lay our oasis: our tented camp. Showered and barely alive, we sat on the rocks just next to the camp. Everyone else marvelled at the sunset. I marvelled to be over my ordeal. Day two started bright and early at 07h30. Self-catered breakfast down, day bags packed, we were off on the first part of the day’s 21 km trek: an 8 km walk along the beach. If tired feet and tetchy knees were not enough, I now also had to contend with burning thighs and exhausted calves, which only added to my already upbeat mood. The previous day’s banter had quietened down as the group marched single file

The group hikes through beautiful indigenous fynbos on the first day of the hike

May 2012

Travel

The Hoerikwaggo Trail involves a strenuous climb straight up Chapman’s Peak – although the view from the top is definitely worth it

along the water’s edge towards the car park where, I prayed, someone was going to pick us up and drive us the rest of the 13 km. As we rested halfway, the guides enlightened us with the history, flora and fauna of the area. And then the pain and dread really began. The next leg of the hike was straight up a steep ridge leading to Chapman’s Peak road. The steep incline conquered, my co-hikers marvelled at the massive beach and blue water beneath us with little concern for me, who was on all fours, whimpering. My life flashed before me as our direct route up Chapman’s Peak and Noordhoek Peak was pointed out. Both peaks summited, and uninterrupted views of False Bay and the Atlantic later, the group revelled as I prepared to feign altitude sickness, when I noticed my elderly adversary quietly leaning against a rock, sipping water and loving every detail of what she was seeing. Later that afternoon, I stumbled into the eco-friendly tented camp, and bolted for my comfortable cot, which was stretched out in a spacious two-man tent. On my back was the only

place I could be until my gasping subsided. That evening we sat silently around the fire and listened to the meat sizzle underneath a clear, dark, sky. We then wolfed it down ravenously – an eight hour hike can do that to you! With the most strenuous day behind us, we were off once again on our way towards the city. We descended sheer slopes and rock strewn pathways carefully negotiated and lead by our guides. And then it happened! In my usual position – second to last – meandering along a flat stretch of grassland and still a day from home, I managed to lift my head and witness, in the distance, the backside of Table Mountain stretching out flatly before me. My breath returned, along with my strength and energy. Remarkably, I even felt good! The last day’s 15 km hike was a breeze. The sun was bright, the air cool and I was raring to get started. I could breathe, smell, and even lift my head and feet with vigour. I had made it… and I even beat an elderly strider to boot! The Hoerikwaggo Trail can be organised through www.hoerikwaggotrail.org. n

The guides often stop during the trail to talk about the area’s history and its flora and fauna

The Art Of Fine Living Wapadrand – R 6 500 000 • Stand Size: ±3685M² • Dwelling Size: ±850M² Situated in one of the most exclusive and established estates in Pretoria, this home offers the ultimate in luxurious living in a secure environment. This architectural masterpiece is a study in space, elegance and style. Spacious living areas flow seamlessly into each other, spilling out onto expansive covered enter tainment areas, including a spacious Moroccan themed terrace overlooking the sprawling garden to the front, and a private terrace flanked by an intimate garden towards the rear. Enter this exquisite proper ty through a magnificent entrance hall that leads to the wine cellar, private study and two bedrooms served by full bathroom. A floating staircase leads up to the spacious multilevel, double volume open living areas complete with designer bar in French Oak and a well appointed kitchen by Poggenpohl, also in French Oak. The main bedroom with spacious walk-in dressing room, ensuite bathroom (appointed in granite, marble and French Oak) and two private balconies, is nothing less than an opulent expression of style and harmony. Other features include underfloor heating, airconditioning, water features, 6 garages with fully appointed private apar tment, storerooms and borehole irrigation. Truly a remarkable home for the discerning buyer.

For an exclusive tour, call Lynn van der Meij. Sole Agent: AIDA PRETORIA Lynn van der Meij: 083 302 5379 (cell) or (012) 348 3720 (office) www.aida.co.za WEB ID 100081151 www.privateproperty.co.za ID K77065

Feature

Birds of a

Feather

The Increasing Popularity of ‘Twitcher’ Tourism

Our country boasts some of the richest and most rewarding bird watching opportunities in the world – something which avid local ‘twitchers’ have long known. And now the word is spreading to other countries and ‘avitourism’ looks set to take off in a big way in South Africa. Text: Ron Toft Images: © BirdLife South Africa

The Blue Train

Most avid ‘twitchers’ would love to tick the Giant kingfisher off their ‘to see’ list

Feature A Great white egret hitches a ride on a passing hippo

BirdLife South Africa, the country’s leading ornithological conservation body, signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Department of Tourism late last year. As a result of this, avitourism will be promoted as a key niche sector of the all important tourism market from 2012 to 2015.

Birds Equal Big Bucks Domestic and international birders cumulatively spend an estimated R927 million to R1,725 billion annually in South Africa, according to a yearlong independent study undertaken by development economists Kaiser and Associates on behalf of the Department of Trade and Industry (dti). The potential contribution, however, to the nation’s GDP could be as much as R1,025 to R1,975 billion. It is estimated that there are 21,000 to 40,000 birders in South Africa at any given time of which 13,000 to 24,000 are active, home grown ones and 8,000 to 16,000 are from abroad. Given that globetrotting birders make an estimated three million international trips annually, clearly South Africa is only scratching the surface of the global market at present. “Foreign birders visiting South Africa is perhaps one of the most important areas with potential for growth,” states the

research and analysis report titled Avitourism in South Africa. It adds that the country “is a premier destination because of its large diversity of birds, large number of endemic [found nowhere else] species and full complement of major bird habitats in Africa”. Birders – domestic and foreign alike – splash their cash on a wide range of things, from accommodation, transport, food and drink to binoculars, telescopes, magazines, books and guide fees. The greater the passion, the greater the expenditure, says the report, “suggesting that efforts to increase interest in birding, and the avidity of birders, may yield even greater revenues across a broad range of sectors”. Active South African avitourists spend around 36 days a year birding. International avitourists “tend to be more fanatical” in that they devote a greater proportion of their leisure time to birding and spend more money on tours and equipment. Self-catering accommodation is preferred by most domestic avitourists. International birders also use this type of accommodation, but are more likely than domestic birders to stay in hotels, guest houses and game lodges. Domestic avitourists are more affluent than typical South African tourists, since 35 % of them enjoy household incomes of more than R40,000 per month. A further

May 2012

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The Woodland kingfisher often rewards patient birdwatchers with a flash of its beautiful blue wings

21 % have incomes of between R25,000 and R39,999 per month.

Best Birding Hotspots The most popular birding destinations for domestic avitourists are KwaZulu-Natal (21 %), the Western Cape (19 %), Mpumalanga (18 %), Limpopo (14 %) and Gauteng (10 %). “International birders followed a similar pattern, except that Mpumalanga was higher than the rest (26 %), probably due mainly to visiting the Kruger National Park,” states the report. Most avitourists prefer travelling in small groups of one to four people, “which lends itself particularly well to the use of small tour operators and community guides, rather than larger tour operators”. Community guides have been shown to be “effective environmental stewards”, yet only 34 % of the surveyed birders said they employed such guides. Expanding the use of community guides “carries the potential for significant economic benefit to previously disadvantaged people and communities”, higher incomes, enterprise development, capacity building “and a sense of empowerment and self-worth”. Birding routes, of which BirdLife South Africa has created a network across the country, have “a positive impact on local communities by creating socio-economic wealth and environmental conservation”. Sugarbirds, wood hoopoes, mouse birds, wattle eyes, bush shrikes and whydahs are among the 841 bird species found in South Africa, according to the latest BirdLife South Africa checklist released last year. Of these, 19 are endemic to the country. South Africa is also home to 46 near-endemic species (those with a minimum of 70 % of their total population in the country). According to BirdLife

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Useful Websites www.birdingroutes.co.za www.birdlife.org.za South Africa, the country boasts the highest number of endemics and near-endemics on the African continent. Endemics, wherever they occur, are eagerly sought after by birders. “BirdLife has been beating the drum for birding tourism for seven or eight years, but it is just one player in the industry,” explains Martin Taylor, Manager of BirdLife South Africa’s Avitourism Division. “It’s going to take all the different stakeholders involved to pull together with the Department of Tourism to really get things going. We are extremely excited with developments and hope Government will now pick up the baton and run with it.” When it comes to birding tourism, only the sky is the limit as far as South Africa is concerned. n

Travel

Riches The

Road to

The Garden Route

The Garden Route, with its spectacular scenery, is often heralded as the perfect places to sit back, relax and soak up the views. But as Keith Bain recently discovered, it also offers a host of wonderfully rich experiences. Text & Images: © Keith Bain

I am soaring. My feet are dangling above shuffling cars slowed by speed cameras along this notorious coastal highway. I can see a few mortals, too: antlike dots strolling along a golden sandy beach which stretches into infinity. Up the coast, green cliffs disappear under a blanket of mist enveloping the Outeniqua Mountains. “On a clear day, you can see the Knysna Heads,” pipes up Jan Minaar, the paragliding pro to whom I am tethered. We launched from Map of Africa, a sloping grass field which gets steeper as you start to run down it. It is as convenient for taking off as it is for landing, and overlooks all of Wilderness and beyond. At times we get seriously close to the houses on the mountain slopes. People wave from their garden loungers. Some are not too thrilled at being ogled from above and nervous sunbathers duck beneath umbrellas. We fly like this for half an hour, riding what Jan calls “perfect coastal soaring conditions”. Today’s 20 km/h south easterly wind is textbook perfect. From up here, it is obvious what attracts people to Wilderness: A perfect marriage of beach, thick indigenous forests, and inland waterways, all crammed between the ocean and the mountains. The scene is mesmerising, and all the more magical because flying adds to the illusion of invincibility. And then: touchdown. It is a smooth, butter-soft landing, precisely on the spot from which we launched.

Decadent Dining Exhilarated, I am yearning to explore what I have just witnessed from above. I meet up with my food obsessed American travelling companion, who tells me that Wilderness reminds her of California. “The best bits,” she assures me. For

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weeks we have been planning a trip with a culinary focus, and she is ready to start racking up notches on her belt. First up is Sedgefield for one of the country’s best Saturday markets. It is bustling with farmers flogging fresh produce; straight-from-the-boat fish; and artisanal food crafters with inspired ingredients. There are yoghurt makers, and ex-pats with traditional recipes from Europe. We snack and shop, and fall in love with the mood. Then we have a long drive – beyond Knysna, Plett, and Storms River – to lunch somewhere truly special. We zip off the highway and down rutted dirt roads to Fynboshoek. This is not really a restaurant. Rather, it is Alje van Deemder’s home. Here, amid green meadows, he runs a bespoke dairy with happy cows and goats. We feast in an intimate, light filled room just off Alje’s kitchen, while his menagerie of dogs and cats look on. Lined up are a caprese salad (the mozzarella in it was made just yesterday); a taster of thyme-baked goat’s Brie drizzled with honey; and then a bulging platter of flavoursome cheeses, served with focaccia bread straight from the oven. We take occasional breaks between mouthfuls to explore, and finish off with superb coffee (the only thing not grown on the farm). Chatting with the renegade microbiologist turned cheese maker, we hear about the dire state of the supermarket food industry, and about the healthy lives Alje’s animals lead.

Part of the Family We then head back west, where we check into a backpackerstyle hostelry in the Judah Square Rastafarian Village in Knysna’s Khayelethu township. Founded in 1993, this is South Africa’s

Travel

Wilderness boasts an oft-empty, seemingly endless stretch of beach

May 2012

Travel

largest Rastafarian community. We are quartered in a small, uncluttered room containing a pair of bunk beds. It is an extension of Kerri McKenna’s township home. She arrived from Australia years ago and opted for life among the people. Her Jah Works B&B is clean and inexpensive, and within earshot of the tabernacle around which community life revolves. She is dedicated to her adopted Rasta family, and Sister Kerri also oversees the crèche next door. “There’s nowhere in the world I’d rather be,” she tells us. People are overwhelmingly warm in Judah Square; everyone welcomes us and there is plenty of time for casual conversation. It is deeply humbling and each time I boil the kettle to make hot water to shower with, I am reminded how much we take the basics for granted. As night falls, we chase off to find a red tin roofed cottage on the edge of the Knysna Lagoon. The spicy Firefly Eating House is a warren of quirkily decorated rooms, all pink and candle-lit, with bewitching aromas spilling from the kitchen. Its reputation is for curries laced with flavour. I order the fiery-sounding “BangBang!”, which is their most potent concoction of black tiger prawns, tamarind and red chillies. I am soon sweating and the tears are welling up, but I simply cannot get enough! At the crack of dawn we join the gathering in the tabernacle. It is casual, but orderly – Women on one side, men on the other, and everyone chanting in one beautiful voice, with simple praise singing accompanied by rhythmic drumming. Lighting up, too, is part and parcel. And when the moment takes us, everyone gives over to spontaneous dance. It is a full-bodied expression of enthusiasm for the day ahead.

Time to Reflect Avoiding the highway back to Wilderness, we take the Seven Passes Road instead, shifting gears over Edwardian bridges and passing through dense indigenous forest on the original George-to-Knysna road. Eventually, the road brings us back down past Map of Africa. We stow our bags in our room at Moontide, a charming guesthouse on the banks of the meandering Wilderness lagoon, its water as calm and seductive as ever. We jump into Moontide’s little paddleboat and drift off. Soon the American mumbles something about dinner. “Apparently, if you take off your shoes before entering a restaurant in Wilderness, you’re considered a local,” she hints. Staring up into the clouds, I catch sight of Jan Minaar, flying effortlessly; footloose and fancy free. “Perfect,” I reply, dipping my oar into the water. “I left my shoes in Knysna.” n

Hanging free above Wilderness with Jan Minaar, the country’s most experienced tandem paragliding pilot

Off the beaten track: Fynboshoek cheesery is a charming discovery at the end of a quiet country road

Contact Details Cloud Base Paragliding: Contact +27 82 777 8474 or +27 44 877 1414 or visit www.cloudbase.co.za for more information. Wild Oats Community Farmers Market, Sedgefield: Contact +27 82 376 5020 or +27 44 883 1177 or visit www.wildoatsmarket.co.za for more information. Fynboshoek Cheesery: For more information, contact +27 42 280 3879. Jah Works B&B: Contact +27 83 502 2229 or visit www.knysnalivinglocal.co.za to learn more. Firefly Eating House: For more information, contact +27 44 382 1490 or visit www.fireflyeatinghouse.co.za. Moontide: Contact +27 44 877 0361 or visit www.moontide.co.za for more information. Delicious all-natural cheeses at Fynboshoek

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Feature

Equestrian Ballet The Beauty of the Lipizzaners

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All of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recognised Lipizzaner horses are descended from six Andalusian sires born in the late 18th century. Every Lipizzaner foal is born black and only acquires its characteristic milk white coat upon reaching maturity

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The School Quadrille is the highlight of the stallions’ career and demonstrates their superb ability to work in unison with both their rider and the other horses

The majestic Lipizzaners – white stallions who have their origin in Lipica in what is today Slovenia – have survived through the centuries against many odds. Their history is rich with tales of royalty and courageous wars dating back to the 16th century, when they were used as military steeds to subdue the enemy on European and Mediterranean battlefields. Text: Bronwyn Burns Images: © The Lipizzaner Centre

Today a more fragile tradition of the Lipizzaner is continued in its purest form at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. They practise not for battle or to entertain royalty, but to preserve the ancient art of man riding in harmony with the natural ability of the horse. A twist of fate and a string of unusual events led a herd of the magnificent Lipizzaners from Vienna to Hungary, England and finally to South Africa in the mid-20th Century. “The Lipizzaner Centre here in Kyalami became the only other centre in the world besides the school in Vienna that breeds, trains and presents the art of the Lipizzaner,” says Judy Vertue, a National Dressage Judge, who joined the Lipizzaner Centre as a director in 2008 when it was at risk of closing down due to lack of funds. “For 17 years the Chief Rider from Vienna taught and trained at our centre once or twice a year. On his retirement, the training was continued yearly by top riders from the school, and contact with Vienna continues to be maintained,” she adds.

Pure Bloodlines While records of the Lipizzaner ancestry reach back in

time to the Iberian horse some 25 to 30 thousand years BC, the only recognised bloodlines of all Lipizzaners today hail from six Andalusian sires born in the late 18th century: Pluto, a dappled grey from Denmark; Conversano, a Neapolitan black; Neapolitano, a brown from Naples; Favory, a dun-hued stallion; Maestoso, a grey; and the last, Siglavy, an Arabian grey, born in 1810. Their names bear significance, as each descendant assumes the name of his forefather and so preserves the lineage. The bloodlines also explain their most striking feature, namely that they are born entirely black. It is only as they mature that they gradually become lighter. Between their sixth and ninth year they turn a silvery white colour and only mature Lipizzaners proudly showcase a magnificent milk white coat. To add to local prestige, the centre at Kyalami breeds descendants of all six great sires. During a Sunday performance, for example, you may be treated to Favory Presciana performing the Capriole as he leaps into the air, draws his forelegs under his chest at the height of elevation, and kicks out swiftly with his hind legs.

May 2012

Feature A South African Lipizzaner displays a magnificent “airs above the ground” leap that the breed is renowned for

“During Medieval war times, horses were taught defensive movements to subdue the enemy. The Pesade, where the horse stands up high on his hind legs, was used by soldiers to gain a better view of the battlefield. The spectacular Capriole was used to decapitate foot soldiers. Today, the stallions perform these same movements for their pure aesthetic value, while the handler remains on the ground next to the horse,” explains Judy.

An Exact Art While all Lipizzaners learn “school on the ground” – or the precise trots, canters, pirouettes and other movements of ballet – Judy explains that with the exuberance of youth, most young horses exhibit natural talent for “airs above the ground” and “flying changes” while playing in the paddock. These are the great leaps that astound audiences and only a few gifted stallions ever master one or two of the moves. “It is our job to identify talent in each different horse, and to recognise and nurture that talent so that the horse learns to perform these movements ‘on command’.” They may look like fairytale horses or circus gems as they prance and perform, but Lipizzaners are never taught the absurd tricks and displays of a circus horse. The Lipizzaner is trained using only its natural movements from the wild. They spend years perfecting them in thorough haute école training, the purest form of horsemanship dressage.

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One may expect such training to take many hours of discipline each day, yet, true to the highest standards of the Spanish Riding School, Lipizzaners train not for hours but minutes each day. A daily half hour of training demands the horse’s absolute concentration, and for the rest they are groomed, fed and allowed to frolic in the paddock. When they take to the arena for their weekly performance, it becomes all the more fascinating to observe such exacting technique. “The Lipizzaner horse has an amazing temperament; they are very easy to work with and learn quickly,” says Judy. “We expose them little by little to noise and loud music as part of their education, but always in an environment of trust and patience. Every Saturday the horses go out with their riders so that they become accustomed to dogs, cars, bicycles and the like.” She adds that the School Quadrille is the highlight of the stallions’ career and demonstrates how training displays the talents of the horse, as well as obedience and trust between horse and rider. It is a true example of superb teamwork, as the horses move in absolute symmetry together. Indeed, the Lipizzaners perform more than just a show. They present an art of precision and power, a ballet between man and beast, and a subtle display of an ancient tradition of splendour and glory. Visit www.lipizzaners.co.za for more information. n

Feature

Letting Their

Light Shine

The Shine Programme At the annual Children’s festival, children from the Shine community had fun trying out slippery slides and jumping castles for the first time

Farm workers in the picturesque farming community of Villiersdorp in the Western Cape’s Overberg region are running a unique community outreach programme to teach their colleagues important life skills ranging from budgeting to conflict resolution. Text: Emily van Rijswijck/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Images: © The Shine Programme

The Shine Programme was started by the Villiersdorp farming community in 2009 in an attempt to improve the quality of life of farm workers and their families. To date, 35 farms have joined the programme and more than 1,000 workers are now reaping the benefits. By offering personal growth and life skills training, Shine aims to help the workers reach their full potential, says project manager Izel Botha. The programme has two components: the training focuses on providing workers with skills, while the social element aims to broaden the horizons of the workers and

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their families. “The impact of this training reaches more than just the workers who are enrolled in the programme. Their families, children, communities and workplaces also benefit from their new perspectives and skills,” says Botha. Because Villiersdorp is a fruit and wine producing area, work tends to be seasonal, so the training takes place for 10 to 12 weeks during off-peak periods. The enrichment programme, on the other hand, is ongoing and offers monthly excursions and entertainment. Training starts with a foundation phase which focuses on emotional health. Other life skills courses have evolved in

Feature

The children participate in a “wheel barrow” race during a fun and games afternoon, which the Shine Programme organises to keep them constructively occupied during weekends The Little Oaks Women’s Choir perform during the annual Talent Festival

response to feedback received from the workers. In 2010, an alcohol and drug abuse prevention course was added and in 2011, money management and budgeting training became part of the programme. In 2012, the community has requested a shift of focus to communication and conflict management, while in the future, Shine hopes to introduce subjects such as the prevention of foetal alcohol syndrome, parenting skills and the practice of safe sex. This is not a quick-fix intervention, says Botha. “The whole emphasis of the programme is to be preventative and long term.”

Actively Involved The success of the programme can be attributed to the workers’ active involvement in the planning and decisionmaking processes, Botha believes. Courses and events are determined by the workers themselves and they are also responsible for fundraising. On each farm, they elect a Shine official who functions as a link between project coordinators and participants in the programme. “These officials are the real heart of the project. They organise the events and decide what should happen and how,” says Botha. While Shine reaches about 1,500 farm children and young adults through various outreach programmes each year, the organisers intend to focus strongly on the community’s young people throughout 2012, as this was a concern raised by parents, says Botha. “If we can secure the necessary funding we would like to address aspects such as how to be an emotionally healthy teenager, as well as alcohol and drug abuse prevention.”

Entertainment and Leisure The enhancement of the workers’ social life and environment is an important part of the outreach programme. “The idea is to create uplifting, frequent and constructive relaxation activities to encourage positive ways

of spending free time,” says Botha. “A strong focus is put on showing rural youth that it is possible to have fun without using and abusing substances.” Entertainment has included visits from soapie 7de Laan’s Christi Panagio, the Cape Minstrels and local music icon Tant Grietjie, the popular 84-year-old singer from Garies in Namaqualand. The workers have to raise funds for these events, which also encompass annual youth festivals, angling competitions, sports days, talent shows and gardening competitions. Highlights on the calendar are an annual beach outing for about 1,200 adults and children and, in December, Christmas tree festivities, during which almost 700 farm children receive presents.

Pearl of the Overberg Villiersdorp is a 90-minute drive from Cape Town over the majestic Hottentots-Holland pass, from which the district derives its Afrikaans name, Overberg (meaning “over the mountain”). A little gem in an area, which has much to offer the visitor, Villiersdorp is commonly known as the Pearl of the Overberg. Nestling in a valley surrounded by the peaks of the Waterval and Baviaans mountains, the quaint village has a mild Mediterranean climate and is a nature lovers’ and health fanatics’ paradise. While it is best known as an apple growing area, farmers in the district also produce pears, apricots, peaches, grapes and onions. Villiersdorp forms part of the Worcester Wine Route and offers a less commercialised wine tasting experience than the older, more popular Stellenbosch routes. The valley is also home to the Theewaterskloof Dam, South Africa’s seventh largest dam and the major source of water for Cape Town. For more information, contact Izel Botha on +27 28 840 1203 or +27 84 666 3210. n

May 2012

Travel

From With Kalymnos Love Beautiful scenery certainly helps to make any travel destination stand out, but as Carla van der Spuy discovers, it is the people who really make a destination special. Text: Carla van der Spuy Images: ÂŠ Hermann Liebenberg

Kalymnos boasts the kind of intense blue bays that make people want to write poetry about them â&#x20AC;&#x201C; like this one in the Vathi Valley

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Travel

“No problem.” This is an old refrain on the island of Kalymnos where hard work is just as implicit as the unpolluted Mediterranean air. The inhabitants of Kalymnos are known for being more religious and conservative than elsewhere in Greece. Family ties are tight and the hospitality and generosity are legendary. I am staying at the Philoxenia Hotel in Mirties, which belongs to Maria and George Papanikolas (Papa George) and is managed by their 26-year-old son, Nikolas. It is astounding that only three people manage this entire three-storey hotel with its 27 rooms, and yet they still manage to make time to visit with their guests. Maria (51) is a handsome and motherly woman who, from the break of dawn, is busy preparing breakfast for up to 80 visitors, light meals throughout the day and even agrees to prepare time-consuming dinner requests such as moussaka. But it is only a pleasure for her. “No problem,” I hear these words for the umpteenth time. Maria’s life philosophy is simple: “You should do everything that you do with love.” But when do they sleep? The bar, which is run by Nikolas alone, is open for 24 hours. “In the small hours of the night. Maybe an hour or two,” answers Nikolas as if we are talking about a picnic. Even Nikolas’ nephew, Adonis, at the age of eight, cleverly balances trays and carries beer from the bar to the guests. It looks as if hard work runs in the genes of these islanders. Yes, confirms Dimitris Mamakas (32), the owner of a local motorbike rental business. “In some countries you get four waiters that serve six tables, but in Greece two waiters will easily serve 200 people.” One day I order a pie from Fani Triantafillos (32) who operates a café next to the Philoxenia Hotel. She is busy in the shop from six in the morning until midnight where she sells anything from washing powder to wine. “How many hours do you sleep a night,” I ask her. “Two or three,” she answers with nonchalance. Her mother Nicci rents out rooms above the cafe to tourists. Apart from being the owner, Nicci is also the cleaner. The lives of the people on the island revolve around their families and their religion. “Our religion is important to us. Without it we cannot exist,” says Nikolas. I ask about Saint Savvas who is the patron saint of the island and the next thing I know, Nikolas has arranged an outing to the saint’s monastery for us. The outing ends with a visit to an ouzo spot by the name of The Sponge Diver in a hidden-away street in Photia which is traditionally visited only by men. “Women,” says Nikolas with a touch of paternalism in his voice, “will not feel welcome here.” He adds: “This is a man’s world,” and doesn’t seem too upset about it. But as tourists we seem welcome, despite

Saint Savvas Monastery is the home of the island’s patron saint, Saint Savvas

Boats anchored in the harbour at Rinas Valley

May 2012

Travel

our sex. The tables are small and rickety. The food arrives on one plate and we eat together from it sociably. There is a saying that people always return to the island. Or that those who visit Kalymnos do not want to leave again. Dimitris Kabouris (44) studied film and graphic design and is now the owner of Gali Gali, a stylish jewellery shop on the island. He lived in Athens for a while but he returned to Kalymnos because it is where he feels he belongs. Italians Daniele Avci and Nicoletta Zini from Milan exchanged their country of birth for the tranquility of Kalymnos. “We don’t have a lot of money, but we are happy. We are here to stay,” they say. They live a modest existence by selling Italian ice cream. On the last night of our stay, it is Papa George’s birthday. He is 61. His daughter Irene bakes a three-layered cream cake for him. A huge photo of his three adorable grandchildren adorns the cake. He is beaming so much that his eyes disappear – clearly, he is at his happiest among his family. It is almost like a scene from the hit movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding. Everyone is called to the patio to watch the island opposite us disappearing in the glowing sunset. We are treated generously to food and cake. Papa George is serenaded loudly in Greek and then we all join in with a rendition of “Happy Birthday”. Papa George only speaks Greek, but it is

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Philoxenia Hotel hosts and owners Maria and George Papanikolas, who serve as the perfect example of the work ethic and warm hospitality that the people of Kalymnos are renowned for

clear that he gets the message. Why do people like an old British couple (who have returned to Kalymnos every year for the past 20 years) choose to come here when they have the whole Europe to choose from? It is because of the people of Kalymnos, they tell us – and I couldn’t agree more. Contact Hermann and Adriaan Kruger for discounted travel packages to Kalymnos at www.drliebenberg.com/ contactaisafe or at adriaan@2lifetravel.co.za. n

Feature

The Importance of

Emotional Intelligence

Too often we focus solely on the traditional concept of intelligence, whereas building emotional intelligence in ourselves and our children is essential to ensure positive human interactions and meaningful relationships in our lives. Text: Dr Liz Pretorius Image: © iStockphoto.com

At the office, everybody loves Mary. She always tries hard to understand what makes the people around her tick, and she is the ‘go-to’ person whenever you need a helping hand. Peter, on the other hand, has no sense of how to treat his employees. Although a highly intelligent individual, he just does not get along with anyone.

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The difference between Mary and Peter, and the way that they relate to others, is their level of emotional intelligence (EQ). Mary’s EQ is higher than that of Peter’s. She takes time to listen to others, to understand how they feel and to be there for them in times of need. People feel comfortable around Mary, they want to spend time with her and will

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eventually, in turn, listen to her requests for assistance. Unknowingly, we practise the theory of emotional intelligence on a daily basis. According to psychologists Peter Salovey and David Pizarro, EQ reaches beyond the traditional concept of intelligence, or IQ as we know it, and includes the theory of individual differences in people’s emotional abilities.

Fostering Emotional Intelligence What this means, for example, is that from infancy we have been exposed to the actions of others, especially those of our parents and siblings, and have learnt to interact with others by duplicating these actions and theories. In an environment where sufficient emotional stimulation is lacking, children can grow up without the necessary understanding of emotions and how to apply them. This leaves them lacking in emotional intelligence throughout adulthood. We are so concerned with our own as well as our children’s intellectual abilities and academic achievements that we tend to neglect and undervalue the importance of our intelligence on an emotional level. The importance of our emotional abilities is being recognised more and more and we now know that emotional quotient (EQ) is as important as intelligence quotient (IQ) in determining how successful and content we will be in our lives. As parents, it is vital that we equip both ourselves and our children with the necessary emotional skills to be able to respond appropriately in social, school and work settings. We must remember, though, that children learn behaviour best by what they see and not by what they are told. We cannot teach our children to express their feelings honestly when we ourselves do not practice what we preach.

Improving Social Interaction As social beings, the need to be accepted exists within all of us. This entails the interaction with others on an emotional level, and as we learn to accept ourselves and others for who they are, we really start listening to what people have to say; interpret their emotional messages; recognise their emotional reactions; and respond in an empathetic manner, thereby further developing our EQ. We develop emotional intelligence as we experience positive and constructive emotional responses from our parents, family, friends, teachers or other significant people in our lives. Some researchers believe that emotional intelligence is an inherent part of our psychological make-up while others believe it is a learnt behaviour. Either way, we can develop and improve our EQ by being conscious of how we interact with others, by developing our emotional vocabulary, by having a positive attitude and by gaining knowledge on communication and assertive

behaviour strategies. We can also develop positive selfdialogue, read self-development books, join groups such as toastmasters and associate with people who we admire and who already have a high EQ. In the workplace, having emotional intelligence is a major advantage. Emotionally intelligent individuals are adept at channelling and managing their emotions in healthy and positive ways. Moreover, it can assist them to meet the goals they set for themselves and so motivate others to achieve theirs. Emotional intelligence also enhances problem solving skills. Researchers have found that people with emotional intelligence tend to have more positive moods, are more creative in their thinking and are mostly more flexible. Understanding the value of developing your own emotional intelligence and modelling and teaching your children the same, will go a long way to improving the quality of your relationships, the healthy interactions between yourself and others and your overall quality of life. n

Developing Emotional Intelligence in Children • Spend time with your children – listen to them and help to identify and name their emotions. • Help your children to develop their emotional vocabulary. • Children need to learn that they and their emotions are important. • Accept the emotions your child expresses and never create the perception that their feelings are wrong, inappropriate or unacceptable. They should understand that they have the right to be emotional, but that they cannot always act on these feelings. • Teach them acceptable ways of dealing with their negative emotions. Anger is a normal human emotion and we are allowed to feel it. Parents need to teach their children appropriate ways to express their anger. Saying “I feel angry when you tell me to stop watching television without warning” is acceptable. Sulking or throwing a tantrum on the other hand, is not. • Encourage your children to understand how other people feel and see things. This will help them to develop empathy which will improve their subsequent interactions with people. • Help your children to learn to solve problems rather than always being ready to solve their problems for them. • Praise your children for doing well, but remember to be specific. Build their self-esteem by letting them know how valuable they are. • Communicating with your children does not necessarily mean to yell or to lecture. This does not build emotional intelligence. Rather have a conversation to discuss issues, as it will lead to valuable input from their side as well.

May 2012

Travel

South Africa from the

Saddle Horseback Trails

There are few better ways to soak up the natural splendour of our beautiful country than on horseback, and South Africa offers plenty of picturesque trails to keep intrepid travellers on the trot. Text: Richard Holmes Images: ÂŠ Wine Valley Horse Trails, Horse Trails South Africa, Mkulu Kei Horse Trails & Savannah Horse Trails

Horse Trails South Africa offers experienced riders the opportunity to witness the splendour of the West Coastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wildflowers from the back of a horse

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Travel Horseback safaris allow riders to get much closer to wild game than would otherwise be possible in a game drive vehicle. Such is the case on a Savannah Horse Trail in the Waterberg

Vines and Equines Drinking and driving is never a good idea, but with fourlegged transport, there is nothing to stop you enjoying the fruits of the Cape vines. Wine Valley Horse Trails outside Stellenbosch offers a wide range of horseback trails through the area’s stunning vineyards. There is a one-hour amble for novice – and nervous – riders, or a full day outride that takes in local nature reserves for the John Wayne in you. Visit www.horsetrails-sa.co.za for more information. Across the mountains in Franschhoek, you can take a leisurely trot between the valley’s acclaimed estates with champion rider Pieter Hugo from Paradise Stables. There are two rides a day on purebred Arabian horses, that are suitable for both experienced and novice riders. For more information, visit www.paradisestables.co.za.

Flower Power Experienced riders looking for a unique way to indulge their passion for all things equine should look no further than Carl Schwinges’ magnificent multi-day horse trails through the lesser known corners of the Western Cape. Carl offers a range of horseback safaris in the province, but the pick of the bunch is the 11 day Wild Flower Trail. It starts

in the unexplored mountains of Piketberg, before meandering onto the pristine coastal flats of the West Coast. Along the way you will gallop on empty beaches, trot up the empty shores of Verlorenvlei, go twitching at bird filled Rocherpan and – in season – marvel at the annual display of wild flowers. It is a 225 km journey that combines warm country hospitality with a unique glimpse of the back-of-beyond trails of the Western Cape. It is not cheap, but unforgettable experiences never are! Visit www.horsetrailssouthafrica.com to learn more.

Coastal Cantering The rolling green hills that stretch from Cintsa to Port St John’s might make hikers huff and puff, but they are a breeze when you are in the saddle. Mkulu Kei Horse Trails run overnight and multi-day adventures along the Wild Coast from their stables at Morgan Bay, with pony camps for young riders and longer trails for more adventurous travellers. For a true taste of the Wild Coast the overnight trails are your best bet, as they take in lonely shipwrecks, deserted beaches and lush Wild Coast countryside. Pristine estuaries and mangrove forests offer spectacular birding, while the mild waters of the Indian Ocean are always on hand to offer a cooling swim for both rider and steed. Trails are tailor-made according to the experience

The Western Cape’s wine country is ideal for a leisurely outride followed by some equally leisurely wining and dining

May 2012

Travel Make the most the Wild Coastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spectacular seaside scenery during an outride with Mkulu Kei Horse Trails

of the group. Accommodation along the way varies between historic beach hotels and cosy cottages. For more information, visit www.mkulukeihorsetrails.co.za.

Mountain Meandering There is something for everyone on Khotso Adventure Farm, a 1,300 hectare working horse and sheep farm in the southern Drakensberg. A leisurely one-hour trail is ideal for novice riders who are new to life in the saddle, while longer trails are geared towards more experienced riders. On all trails spectacular Drakensberg views come standard, and they will happily create bespoke trails for larger groups. Khotso also offer fantastic horse treks into the high peaks of nearby Lesotho, where you will discover tumbling waterfalls, pristine plateaus and friendly Basotho villagers. Lesotho trails are for a minimum of two days, though, so get set for some serious time in the saddle! Visit www.khotsotrails.co.za to find out more.

A Saddled Safari Small is beautiful for Carla Lucassen, the owner of Savannah Horse Trails. She leads just a handful of riders (never more than four at a time) on horseback safaris through the bushveld of the Waterberg. And at just a few hours from Johannesburg, it is the ideal break for jet setting travellers. A proclaimed World Heritage Site, the dramatic landscape of the Waterberg is the perfect spot for equine escape artists. With Savannah Horse Trails you can trot through a 3,000 hectare private reserve and get up close and personal with kudu, duiker, zebra, giraffe and waterbuck, as well as a host of other antelope species. Overhead, keep an eye out for the Verreauxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eagle, as well as the magnificent Blue crane. The morning and afternoon rides with Savannah extend to about three hours at a time, and are most suitable for intermediate and advanced riders. Comfortable accommodation on a nearby game farm allows plenty of time to soak up the silence of the bushveld. To learn more, visit www.savannahhorsetrails.co.za. n

The Blue Train

Feature

The Business of

Sport

Fun on the Field, Funds in the Bank

South Africa is a global leader in sports tourism, but this industry could be further maximised through greater marketing efforts and the alignment of sporting events with business tourism. Text: Chris Waldburger/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Image: ÂŠ iStockphoto.com

The Blue Train

Feature

While many purists out there consider the term “professional sport” an oxymoron, there is simply no getting away from the fact that modern sport is big business. With the advent of new media and technology, the public’s demand to watch and experience high-level sporting events has inexorably led to the rise of sport as a multi-faceted, billion dollar industry. Sport as business has become one of the core features of our new global village, and there is no turning back. The main question now is whether such demand can be utilised and streamed for the good of business, and indeed society. It must be remembered, however, that such a question is ultimately a mere afterthought to the exhilaration of supporting one’s national team in a packed stadium, with friends in tow. It is this very human experience, along with the media, that has made the sports industry what it is today.

Tourism Opportunities The best example of this partnership between human experience and business is the 2009 British and Irish Lions rugby tour of South Africa. Described by rugby experts as “rugby’s last great adventure”, a Lions tour is undoubtedly every hardcore rugby fan’s dream. Tourists followed the team from one place to another, creating a rock ’n’ roll atmosphere. The old-world charm of the team and the unique series format ensured that the sporting experience was unforgettable. The tour seemed amateur in the romantic sense of the word, yet it was a hugely successful money spinner. From a tourism perspective, the tour was neatly translated into opportunity. It has been estimated that the event pumped R1.5 billion ($221 million) into the South African economy. This was a miniature and non-bureaucratic stimulus during a recession that went straight to the service sector of our economy. Our rugby administrators were quick to point out their part in this happy state of affairs. “A Lions tour ranks only behind the Rugby World Cup in terms of its scale and appeal,” said Andy Marinos, then managing director of the South African Rugby Union. “Such a tour places significant demands on a rugby union and its members, but also brings many benefits, one of the most profound being the economic impact it has on the host nation.” He added: “Preparing, hosting and moving around large numbers of rugby fans is a complex exercise, but the most pleasing aspect is that a large number of overseas visitors had an outstanding experience in South Africa.”

Investing in Human and Natural Capital South Africa has invested in its natural capital – its magnificent coastline, game reserves, mountains, and bush – and created a tourism trade that is one of the brightest lights in its development efforts. But another field waiting to be maximised is our human and social capital, which finds a unique nexus in the global sport of rugby. When fans from abroad watch South African teams play – and perhaps more importantly, when those fans support these teams – they are immediately drawn to the country as the nation’s mythology and narrative is on display.

Take South Africa’s sporting colours and emblems: the green and gold, the Springbok, and the symbols associated with the 1995 World Cup. These have become part of global sporting iconography, and at the same time they are associated with the start of South Africa’s democracy. South Africans’ familiarity with sport has forged a kind of fellowship with fans abroad and creates a common language with which to share experiences. This language can precede a mutually beneficial trade. Various organisations make use of this connection through the operation of travel companies gathered around sporting events. These companies cater for rugby, Formula 1 or even equestrian fans, and provide travel packages for events that take place in South Africa or overseas. Added to the business of tour operation, sport offers opportunities for corporate marketing, combined with corporate hospitality and the building of client communities. All major stadiums cater for corporate or private suites, and such suites offer an alternative to the tired cliché of conducting business on the golf course. They also have the advantage of being more universal in appeal and less time-consuming. With the obvious attraction of doing business alongside the South African sporting experience, it is clear that there are many more opportunities awaiting discovery.

Expert Sporting Hosts South Africa has proven time and again that, despite weaknesses in certain logistical areas of our economy, we are practiced experts in hosting sporting events. This strength can be increasingly exploited, just as sport through media becomes a more expansive and universal pastime (just think of the constant growth of Super Rugby, and the staging of southern hemisphere rugby matches in cities like London and Hong Kong). It has often been said that investment in South Africa will only follow a local buzz, or wave of investment. The same is true of tourism. What South Africans enjoy, creates a desire and market for international tourists to come and enjoy the same things with us. And one of the greatest experiences in South Africa is the chance to sit inside a full stadium and watch a game. This was again demonstrated when the Pretoria based Bulls rugby team moved their headquarters to Soweto in the build-up to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Because their home ground, Loftus Versfeld in Pretoria, was under the control of FIFA by the time their Super 14 semi-final against the New Zealand Crusaders was due, they decided to take the game to the township. It was a popular move. Streams of supporters ventured into Soweto to watch the game at the packed Orlando Stadium and the local bars. All of a sudden Soweto became an enjoyable day outing for thousands of white South Africans who might otherwise have never gone there. Not only did sport once again prove to be a great nation builder as it was when we won the Rugby World Cup in 1995, but it also guaranteed a rip-roaring good time, and increased trade for local patrons. n

May 2012

Travel

Own

In a League of its

The One

How much are you prepared to pay for the most exclusive accommodation in Africa? “As much as it costs”, some might say and then make the necessary arrangements to check into The One, the luxurious penthouse atop the five-star One&Only Cape Town. This is the finest and most exclusive address that money can buy. And when money is no object, location is everything. Text & Images: © The One&Only

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Travel

The One penthouse boasts more than 1,275 m² of prime real estate and wraparound views of one of the most beautiful cities in the world, including magnificent vistas of two World Heritage sites, namely Table Mountain National Park and Robben Island. It contains furnishings and art that would impress and inspire even the most jaded of palates. This penthouse is quite simply in a league of its own. This elegant and sophisticated space was the vision of the owners, who along with local companies Margaret de Villiers Art & Interiors and Garland Interiors created an impressive space that manages to convey both complete opulence and comfortable warmth. They spared no expense in decorating the four spectacular en suite bedrooms, the lounges with atmospheric fireplaces, the stylish study, glamorous dining room and the state-of-the-art kitchen. The One also boasts a fully equipped gym (with sauna), two pools and an outside entertainment and braai (barbeque) area – for those wanting to indulge in one of South Africa’s favourite culinary pastimes. An eclectic mix of old and modern; the white, black, silver, and gold interior is both impressive and restful. Light floods the penthouse from every corner, and windows reveal iconic images of Cape Town: the Port, the V&A Waterfront, and the Cape Town Stadium. Here and there, black high gloss lacquer and glass create mirror-like surfaces which reflect the incredible views to ensure that guests are constantly aware of their special location. The windows also beckon to guests to revel in the beauty of their surroundings while the doors beg to be thrown wide open to allow for unhindered mountain views and urban vistas. Carefully selected art work reflects the personal taste of the owners, who in a bold move decided to showcase some lesser known South African artists. Jaco van Schalkwyk’s Still Life with Swan, is an unexpectedly haunting welcome in the entrance hall, while Theo Kleynhans’s ceramic plates enliven an otherwise unnoticed corner. Martie Strydom’s Simon is a poignantly uplifting work which has pride of place and was deliberately chosen because it adds an authentic South African dimension to the space.

May 2012

Travel

Because the penthouse is part of One&Only Cape Town, guests staying here can make use of all the facilities offered to them by this world-renowned resort: the spa, restaurants, the lush gardens, and the lounges and bars. But they will also appreciate the complete privacy afforded to them by staying at The One, including a private lift, which ensures that they can access the penthouse away from prying eyes. Guests will also enjoy the services of a 24-hour butler service, which means that their every whim will be catered for, be it a private dinner for two or a fabulous party for more. Fresh fruit and delicious snacks are replenished daily and artfully arranged fresh flowers further enhance the already beautiful space. But amid all this luxury, The One still feels like home, albeit, an incredibly luxurious and expensive one. The custom made furnishings, atmospheric lighting and elegant surroundings are warm and inviting. The door handles on the hand carved front door were chosen by a teenage son who saw them on his travels, and knew that his parents would appreciate their beauty. The books in the study, are not, as would be the obvious choice, a collection of first editions, but rather a selection of books, read and enjoyed by the owners and then placed in this study to be enjoyed by others. The modern wine cellar, a temperature-controlled storage facility, is ‘hidden’ in plain sight, and its sliding doors reveal a wine connoisseur’s personal selection ranging from South African award winning wines to French Champagnes. The

The Blue Train

kitchen is sophisticated enough to cater for private dinners, but also comforting enough for someone to want to make themselves a cup of tea, grab a biscuit and curl up on the generous sofas in front of the large windows framing Table Mountain. The One is impressive, but not intimidating. Classy, but not clinical. And for the fortunate few, those who can afford its unrivaled luxury, The One is a place where they will lay down their head, and lose their heart. The One is priced from R95,000 to R140,000 per night depending on the season. For reservation enquiries call the Reservations Department on +27 21 431 5800/5888, email reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com or visit oneandonlycapetown.com. n

Chef

The Sovereign of

Silver Service Chef Bernice Warner

Port Elizabeth’s Hacklewood Hill Country House, with its delightfully creaking wooden floors, ball-and-claw bathtubs and lush country garden is the picture of a quintessential Victorian manor. Built in 1898, this stately double storey house began its life as a family home and now continues its tradition of hospitality by welcoming guests who come here for its delightful period ambience and its renowned fine dining. In any Victorian manor, one expects to find the lady of the house, and in Hacklewood’s case, it is undoubtedly Bernice Warner, the establishment’s resident cordon bleu head chef. Diminutive and softly spoken, Bernice suits her environment to a tea, but beneath her ladylike demeanour lies the skill and determination of a chef who has elevated her restaurant to award winning status. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Hacklewood Hill Country House

The Blue Train

Chef

After a three-year course at Port Elizabeth College, Bernice completed a six-month internship under the guidance of a cordon bleu chef. It was here, she admits, that she developed an appreciation for fine dining and the more intimate guesthouse atmosphere. Thus, it was an easy choice to take up her first professional position at Hacklewood – one that has ultimately suited her so well that she is still here seven years later. “In all the years I have been at Hacklewood, it has been a very tight-knit family and it’s been lovely working in the kitchen. As a chef you want to be creative and to be inspired every day, and here I have free range to do anything menu wise,” she explains. Bernice’s menu, like Hacklewood itself, harks back to earlier times, and her signature dishes are often reincarnations of old favourites that sit well with the silver service of Hacklewood’s restaurant. That said, they are always re-conceptualised with interesting modern twists and are beautifully plated. Guests can expect such perennial favourites as rack of lamb, bacon wrapped venison and stuffed chicken breasts. While Bernice admits that chefs are moving towards healthier food options these days, she is not afraid of a little extra butter or cream. But she does adhere to modern trends of using predominantly local and organic ingredients. The majority of the restaurant’s fresh produce is sourced from an organically certified supplier and the herbs in her dishes come straight from her own organic herb garden outside the Hacklewood kitchen. One herb you won’t find a lot of in Bernice’s cooking, however, is coriander: “It’s a very strong herb and it just overpowers

every other flavour that you’ve got going in your dish. I don’t mind cooking with it, but I tone it down completely,” she says. She has the same approach to garlic, but not so to her current favourite ingredients: cranberries, pomegranates and vanilla bean pods. Bernice also admits to an ardent love for chocolate, and if

her chocolate fondant – which literally left our table in silent rapture – is anything to go by, she certainly knows how to use it. “What’s the secret of your amazing chocolate fondant?” I ask her conspiratorially. “It’s made with a lot of heat and a great deal of love,” she laughs. “And we use Lindt chocolate. We spare no expense with quality and absolute precision,” she adds. This fanatical attention to detail and insistence on quality ingredients is something she shares with one of her culinary heroes, celebrity chef Gordan Ramsay. And while she may not scream quite as much as Ramsay does in his kitchen, she does admire his direct approach. “I do try and control my temper, but I am also very outspoken and that’s why I like him. He says it like it is and doesn’t hold back. I am the same – I say it how it is and if you don’t like it, you don’t like it. Other than that, I also try to imitate a lot of other things he does because I think he is a brilliant chef when it comes to running a kitchen and a business.” While she may admire Ramsay and other celebrity chefs like him, Bernice has mixed feelings about the increase of cooking shows and competitions on television, not least of all because it often leads to public misconceptions about what it truly entails to be an excellent chef. “We go through a lengthy process of studying and acquiring the art of combining the theory with the practical. Yes, you can be a fantastic cook and produce delicious meals but if you don’t understand the chemical reactions that happen when you cook or why you need to do step A to get to step B, your food will always be missing something. There are a lot of good cooks out there but it takes a long time to perfect culinary art,” she explains. Another aspect of these shows is that diners, as they become more educated about food, are also being more critical when they eat out. “Which is not necessarily a negative thing,” explains Bernice. “It just makes us chefs a little bit more aware to perfect everything that we do.” With this in mind – while she admits that she loves winning fine dining awards – the most gratifying thing for Bernice is to get positive feedback directly from her customers. “When someone says: ‘These are the best eggs Benedict I have ever had; the Hollandaise was amazing’ and things like that; those little compliments are the ones that count the most,” she explains. And Bernice returns the favour by treating every one of her guests like royalty. “I know it sounds quite strange to say this but I don’t have anyone famous that I would love to cook for because I like to treat every guest like a VIP, and ensure that everyone who eats here has a wonderful and memorable experience.” The Restaurant at Hacklewood Hill Country House is open for breakfast from 07h00 to 10h00, for lunch from 12h45 to 14h00 and for dinner from 19h00 to 21h30. Bookings are essential and can be made by contacting +27 41 581 1300 or emailing hacklewood@pehotels.co.za. For more information on Hacklewood Hill Country House, visit www.hacklewood.co.za. n

May 2012 |

Feature

The Blue Train

Feature

The Soul

of a Sports Car

The Jaguar XF 2-2 Diesel

With graceful good looks, a class-leading gearbox and a powerhouse of an engine, the Jaguar XF 2-2 Diesel looks set to ruffle a few feathers in the luxury sedan market. Text: Bernard K Hellberg Images: ÂŠ Quickpic

May 2012

Feature

Car lovers will fondly remember the Jaguar marketing slogan of yesteryear: ‘Grace, Pace, Space’. At the time, the Jaguar management could probably not foresee the day that superb pace could be generated by a fairly modest (by Jaguar standards) 2.2 diesel engine. However, this 2,179 cm3 four cylinder offers far more than one would usually expect from this kind of commercial diesel engine. Featuring low friction pistons and a water cooled turbocharger, the result is Jaguar’s most fuel efficient engine ever with a tank range in excess of 800 km. Power output is 140 kW with 450 Nm of torque – making it more powerful than the average tractor! This means that the XF will make light work of a horsebox and its two occupants. With 0-100 km/h acceleration figures of 8.5 seconds and a top speed of 225 km/h, this amazing power plant is also capable of superb fuel consumption figures of 5.4 l/100 km when driven in a civilised manner. Linked to a super smooth eight speed automatic gearbox, the ‘pace’ aspect is firmly taken care of. The ZF (Zahnradfabrik Friedrichshafen) gearbox is a class-leading component which has also been used by several other manufacturers of super luxury touring cars. Gear changes are completed in 200 milliseconds – four times faster than the average resting human heart rate – while driver control is enhanced by the ability to perform multiple downshifts using paddleshift technology. The use of advanced lightweight materials means that this eight speed unit weighs the same as the previous six speed unit did. Jaguar can now, for the first time, also add the advantages of economical running to its other well established claims. The new intelligent Stop/Start system automatically shuts down the engine in just 300 milliseconds when the car comes to rest. This improves fuel economy and CO2 emissions by between five

The Blue Train

and seven percent. An added bonus is that of the R452,480 for the Luxury and R522,480 for the Premium Luxury, the government will only manage to grab R4,189.50 in Emissions Tax – a significantly lower number than the average of over R8,000 for cars in this class. As far as the ‘grace’ claim is concerned, Jaguar fans need not fear. The cabin of the XF is a uniquely welcoming and stylish place with high end materials used in a truly contemporary manner. The seats feature new hide and colour combinations, while veneers and headlining choices increase the personalisation options available to buyers. The XF incorporates a formidable amount of technology, but in true Jaguar fashion it is integrated seamlessly into the function of the car, and controlled through a central 7” touch screen with a new polarising filter for better contrast viewing. True Jaguar ‘grace’ is further enhanced by three new audio systems on offer. Heading up these choices is a 1,200 Watt 17 speaker premium set-up by British audio experts, Bowers & Wilkens. This system offers concert hall quality sound reproduction. As a superb touring car, at night the Jaguar XF relies on bi-function HID xenon technology that provides outstanding beam resolution. Modern LED daytime running lights (arranged in a Jaguar ‘J-blade’ signature pattern) round off the car’s striking appearance. Renowned as a saloon with the soul of a sports car, the XF has won accolades and fans across the globe for its dynamic abilities and dramatic looks. Yet it remains the quintessential Jaguar – a powerful, yet elegant design oozing sporting intent. The “Big Three” German luxury brands have every reason to be extremely worried. n

History

In the Tracks of a

Legend The History of The Blue Train

For over half a century, The Blue Train in South Africa has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent travelling experiences. Officially named The Blue Train in 1946, the train’s predecessors trace their history to the 1890s and the discovery of diamonds and gold. Text & Images: © The Blue Train

For the empire builders of old, the unchartered African interior was the landscape of a dream in the making. A dream that would etch its course in parallel lines that snaked their way northward from the Atlantic shoreline, conquering the distance from Cape Town to Cairo. This dream was not to be, as the Great African Railway reached only as far as a bridge across the gorge of the Zambezi River, overlooking the thundering smoke of the Victoria Falls. But in the fading years of the 19th century, the discovery of gold and diamonds drew thousands to the edge of the continent, and those lines of tempered steel began to bear the burden of industry, commerce, and society on the move. Soon, as the moneyed classes made their presence felt, the network added leisure travel to its list of duties, and in the slipstream of leisure came luxury. The Union Limited and the Union Express, ferrying passengers between the mailships of Cape Town harbour and the goldfields of the Witwatersrand, were the standardbearers of steam-powered opulence in the easy-living heyday of the 1920s, boasting everything from card tables to hot and cold water on tap. A coat of royal blue and cream would later give the trains their distinctive livery, and it was from this line, in these shades, that The Blue Train – a “Palace on Wheels” – would ride the rails to legendary status. Withdrawn from service during the dark days of World War Two, extensively refurbished and modernised in the seventies and nineties, The Blue Train went on to define a new era of luxury travel, making the switch from steam to electric and diesel, linking veld to sea, and tradition to progress, with a sense of style, grace, and mesmerising power that have never come close to being matched.

The Blue Train

History

Keeping Up With Technology From the Age of Steam to the Age of the Internet, The Blue Train has kept on track with ever-changing technology. In the process, it has lost none of the charm that anchors it to a bygone era. In its earliest incarnation, as a direct descendant of the Union Limited and Union Express that plied their way between Johannesburg and the Cape coast, The Blue Train thundered down the rails at the command of a mighty steam locomotive. A wisp of romance still lingers from that coal-fired era, clouding the memory of an energy source that proved to be less powerful, less efficient, and far more difficult to maintain than its whisper-quiet replacement. Today, the dual Blue Train sets, differentiated only by their number of suites and the option of a Conference Car that doubles as an Observation Lounge, are hauled by a fleet of diesel or electric locomotives. Whatever the motive, The Blue Train glides through the countryside at a maximum service speed of 90 km/h, ensuring that the noise level of 55 decibels, somewhere between the sound of soft rainfall and normal conversation, is never exceeded. Inter-suite sealing ensures utter privacy for guests. In the world of ever-shrinking boundaries, ever-intensifying demands, rail travel in the grand old tradition has become a luxury in itself. The luxury of time: time to indulge, time to reflect, time to savour sights, sounds, senses and sensations. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feel it from the moment you step into your suite, transformed by a magical act of alchemy from an elegant, spacious lounge by day, into a sanctuary of comfort and slumber by night. Bringing together cultures and travellers from across the globe, The Blue Train is an exclusive society on the move â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one that will undoubtedly prevail for years to come. n

May 2012

Train Layout

The Blue Train

C A P E T O W N S h o p s 5 & 6 , C o n s t a n t i a C o u r t y a r d , C o n s t a n t i a Te l : ( 0 2 1 ) 7 9 4 9 4 4 4 W a t e r f r o n t Te l : ( 0 2 1 ) 4 2 1 8 8 5 2

J o h anne s b u r g O d i z e e G i f t s , O a k l a n d s S h o p p i n g C e n t r e , C o r n e r P r e t o r i a a n d K r u g e r S t r e e t s , Oaklands

Te l : ( 0 1 1 ) 7 2 8 1 0 7 8

w w w. c h a r l o t t e r h y s . c o . z a