mandela/vicovaro ➜ subiaco
Mandela
Subiaco
10
10
mandela/vicovaro ➜ subiaco
mandela/vicovaro ➜ subiaco
10
10
From Mandela/Vicovaro to Subiaco
1.600
400
SANTA SCOLASTICA
SUBIACO
AGOSTA
600
VICOVARO S.COSIMATO
800
MANDELA
1.000
MARANO EQUO
1.200
ANTICOLI CORRADO
BRIDGE OVER ANIENE RIVER
1.400
200 0m 0 km
5
10
15
KM (via San Cosimato):
31 to Subiaco / 33 to Santa Scolastica from mandela: - 3.3km DIFFICULTY: intermediate ELEVATION: UPHILL 560m DOWNHILL 520m dirt track: 70% sealed road: 30%
Information Town council, tel. 0774-79.80.02. Subiaco Tourism, tel. 0774-85.050, 0774-81.64.07, info@subiacoturismo.it. Stamp for the pilgrim’s passport available from the Sacro Speco di San Benedetto. Gerano:
Subiaco:
Where to stay Valle dell’Aniene MARANO EQUO: B&B
I Pastorelli, Via Madonna della Quercia 9 (in village, past the sports field), tel. 389-01.85.429 (Susanna) / 331-46.35.289 (Stefano), homey, per person €25.
VALLE DEL GIOVENZANO CERRETO LAZIALE: B&B Tricolore, Via della Libertà 17 (village centre, 1km from the Way, free shuttle service), tel. 339-16.80.294 / 348-31.35.982 (Innocenzo), imperitricolore@gmail.com, 6 beds in 3 double rooms, BB €25 per person, use of kitchen, closed Oct–Nov. Gerano: Apostole della Sacra Famiglia, Via dei Mazzocchi 5, tel. 0774-79.80.00 (Sister Immacolata),
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35
infogerano@apostolesacrafamiglia.it, 20 beds in rooms with en suite. Walk uphill towards the village centre, turn right at the first junction. In the summer months availability is limited. Pilgrims’ lodgings. Subiaco (pilgrims’ lodgings): Convento di San Francesco, Via San Francesco, tel. 0774-85.542, 45 beds in double rooms, communal bathroom. Operated by nuns, sleeping sheet required. Monastero di Santa Scolastica, tel. 366-36.33.142 (Don Marco), 10 beds in communal room, basic, sleeping sheet required. Casa di preghiera San Biagio, tel. 334-71.38.286. Run by the Salesian Sisters, a quiet place ideal for a brief spiritual retreat. Kindly respect the place’s spirituality. Own bedding required. On foot: at the end of the Sacro Speco’s upper square, behind the statues, follow a steep narrow path for 280m to the hermitage. Subiaco (commercial accommodation):
Albergo Foresteria di Santa Scolastica, tel. 0774-85.569, foresteria@benedettinisubiaco.it, 100 beds in rooms with en suite, BB €37, MP €50 per person, 10% discount with pilgrim’s passport. Opposite the entrance to the monastery. Pensione Ristorante Aniene, tel. 077485.565, albergo.aniene@libero.it, 15 beds, BB €35 for a single room,
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€50 double, pilgrim dinner €15. In the village, on the main street close to the cathedral. Agriturismo La Parata, tel. 0774-82.27.48 / 329-82.63.737 (Franco), laparata@alice.it, 2 rooms with double bed and en suite, 3rd bed option, BB €30, MP €50 per person, single occupancy surcharge €20. In Via dei Monasteri, about 600m past the village, the entrance is on the right,
before the bar Checchina. B&B Ristorante Belvedere, tel. 0774-85.531 / 338-28.52.864 (Antonella), info@belvederesubiaco.com, 3 rooms with double bed, €45/50 single, €70 double, €75 triple, €100 quadruple, pilgrim dinner €15/20. In Via dei Monasteri, immediately past the bar Checchina, the stairs are on the left.
A long but easy stage. The hike mainly follows a path skirting the Aniene river. The cycling route is on sealed roads with virtually non-existent traffic. Pilgrims on foot are advised to follow the latter after heavy downpours, or to visit the beautiful villages of the Giovenzano valley. If you want to halve the hike, you can overnight in Marano Equo after following the path along the Aniene river, or you can stay in Cerreto Laziale or Gerano, if you choose the Giovenzano valley route.
From Mandela If you arrive from the centre of the village (after visiting the Benedictine caves of San Cosimato on the previous day, which I recommend, given today’s long journey), follow the road on the left, next to the crucifix, downhill. Once you reach the Tiburtina Valeria, turn right. After 200m, before the railway station, cross the bridge over the Aniene and turn left [59]. From San Cosimato From the Piazza San Cosimato, with our back to the ex-convent, we walk 50m along the Tiburtina Valeria, then we follow Via Valeria Vecchia, on the left, gently downhill. After 400m, next to a fountain, we turn left, into Via della Mola Vecchia, downhill. After 200m, we cross the railway via a footbridge and continue straight ahead, downhill for 200m, and through the motorway underpass. We cross the Aniene river over a footbridge. We turn left, and in 150m we pass the hydroelectric plant and continue along the river, on an even path surrounded by forest. After about 1km, the path widens into a pleasant dirt road that in 500m leads to Ranch Nikita. We cross the bridge over the Giovenzano river and hike uphill, on a concrete pavement. In 150m we emerge on the main road [58]. Here we face two options: we can follow the trail along the Aniene river, or the sealed road along the Giovenzano valley. The two routes are the same length: the first is for hikers only and is surrounded by nature; the second route is on a sealed road and passes some charming villages (hikers are advised to use it in the event of rain). Aniene nature trail (unsealed, hikers only) From [58] we turn left onto the main road. After 700m, beside the bridge over the Aniene [59], we go straight on towards Saracinesco. After 20m, we turn 99
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into a lane on the left that follows the river. After 900m we pass the restaurant/bar Le Roscelle and continue on a gravel path followed by a dirt track, which continues on a forest path bordering the Aniene river. After 2.3km, we emerge onto a wide dirt road and turn right. After 3.6km, just below the village of Anticoli Corrado [60], we come to a sealed road and turn right. After about 180m before a little church, we turn left onto a dirt road and follow the red and white CAI markers. After 1.6km, at a junction, we continue straight ahead. After 40m, we ignore the dirt road on the left and after a further 40m, at the next junction, keep left. We follow the lovely, shaded dirt road, which in 1.5km leads to a sealed road next to a sulphur spring. After 200m on the left, there are twin springs, one with carbonated water. This area has a wealth of water, which in ancient times, the Romans drew on. We fill the bottles and continue the journey. 1.2km on, we come to a stop sign [61]. We turn right for Marano Equo (which has accommodation). However, to continue the journey, we go straight on, following the sealed road before us. After 800m, we turn left onto a path that enters the forest and, after another 1km, we emerge on a sealed road. We turn left and in 500m we reach the main road near Agosta. At the pavement, we turn right and after 350m, past a fountain, we follow a dirt road on the right [62]. 600m later we turn left just before a soccer field, we walk alongside the sports facility, and then go right. After 70m, at the second junction, we turn left and walk through the underpass (a local road). We follow a dirt road, and after 250m, we go left at the intersection. 120m further on, we emerge onto Via della Ferrovia. We turn right, and, after 100m, we pass under the local road again. We turn right 50m later, into a dirt track that in 800m comes to an even dirt road alongside the river. We turn left, skirting the Aniene for 500m through the forest, until we reach a footbridge on the right, which we cross. We continue on the left, along the opposite riverbank. After 750m, we reach an overpass [63], where we climb up to the road and turn left, crossing the bridge and walking straight along a tree-lined street that in 120m reaches the main road. We turn right and walk alongside the main road for 370m, then cross the bridge over the Aniene river, in front of the restaurant Alla Prateria, where we turn left onto a path that runs alongside the river and into the forest. Another 1.8km and we come to another bridge on our left, which we do not cross, but continue straight on, on the dirt road for another 2km, almost entirely in the forest until we reach a sealed road [66]. This is where the cycling route along the Giovenzano valley re-connects. We keep left, following the river. After 1.3km we pass the Subiaco cemetery and walk below the convent of San Francesco. We go straight on for another 50m, and before a bridge, we keep to the right, passing a small water fountain. After a further 100m, the Aniene river appears on our left and we cross the medieval bridge of San Francesco. 100
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Subiaco.
The Rocca dei Borgia, at the top of the village.
We turn right, entering the historic centre of Subiaco through the arch. To the Benedictine monasteries: from Piazza del Campo, we follow the road for just over 1km, until we leave the village. At the junction, we turn left and follow directions for Jen-ne. Just before the ruins of Nero’s villa, we climb the steps that cut across two hairpin bends and lead to the entrance of Santa Scolastica. To the Sacro Speco: from Santa Scolastica, we continue along the road to Jenne. In about 350m, a series of stairs on the left cut across the hairpin bends and quickly take us to the Sacro Speco.
Route through the Giovenzano valley (sealed: for cyclists) From [58] we turn right onto the main road, and after 3.3km
we reach the junction for Sambuci. We cycle straight on for 50m, turning left at the next junction [64], following directions to Gerano. For 6km we cycle along a pleasant even lane with little traffic, to an intersection with a fountain on the right, where we can quench our thirst and refill the flasks. Turning left, we can visit the beautiful village of Cerreto Laziale, which is set on a hill overlooking the Giovenzano valley (accommodation available). Continuing straight on, we reach Gerano’s industrial area and, at the first intersection, we turn right. We negotiate the uphill cycle that leads into the quaint town centre, which is worth a visit. Then, from the central Piazza della Vittoria, we enter Via Subiaco and follow directions to Rocca Santo Stefano. Soon after the cemetery, we cycle up a steep narrow lane on the right (30% – area La Fossa), which joins the main road, where we turn right. Cycling uphill, on the right, we can admire the Monti Prenestini; having reached the lookout, we have a wide view across Rocca Santo Stefano, Subiaco and the Monti Simbruini. 101
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Following the road for another 2.5km through several turns, we descend to the bottom of the valley (Fosso delle Cone), all the way to a junction [65]. Here we turn left, onto a narrow sealed road that is almost entirely downhill and through the forest. We continue for 4km, until we join the road to Rocca Santo Stefano-Subiaco. Here, we turn left and cross a footbridge, then cycle uphill for about 1.2km with a 15% gradient. Upon reaching the summit, we descend to Subiaco, on an equally steep gradient through a beautiful oak forest. After 1.2km, we come to a flat area [66] from which we cycle straight on, alongside the Aniene river. The rest of the route is part of the Aniene’s nature trail.
Highlights Aniene valley A beautiful river flows through a landscape dominated by lush vegetation. Marano Equo Perched atop a hill at the foot of the Monti Ruffi. Since ancient times, the village has been known for its wealth of water, which possesses various mineral properties and flows at the foot of the hill. This abundance of water has been of great importance since ancient Rome, when the Claudian aqueduct collected water from two small lakes generated by two springs. These were named Curzia and Cerulea due to their water’s clarity. Agosta The village rises above a hilltop, at the base of an area with a wealth of water. Its name derives from the Augusta spring, which in Roman times was the oldest source flowing through the Aqua Marcia aqueduct. Noteworthy along the Via Sublacense, are: the sanctuary of Madonna del Passo, which houses a venerated image of the Madonna and Child; the parish church of Assunta and the medieval castle, both of which are in the village. Giovenzano valley Characterised by sweeping vistas and hamlets
in which human activity has adapted to the natural environment, it preserves traditions that are still in use today. Gerano As far as traditions go, the Sant’Anatolia fair, on 9–10 July, is renowned for being one of the oldest in Lazio. It attracts convoys of Roma gypsies from all over Europe, devoted to the patron saint. The most compelling event; however, is perhaps the Infiorata flower festival, which has been held continuously for over 270 years. It takes place on the first Sunday after 25 April. The celebration honours the Madonna del Cuore, a painting by Sebastiano Conca (1680–1764), who arrived in Gerano in 1729 under circumstances considered miraculous. Since 1740, the painting has been carried in the procession through the village streets. The reputation of Gerano’s infioratori was such that in 1789, on the occasion of Pius VI’s visit to Subiaco, they were invited to create a floral display beneath the triumphal arch. The same was to happen again two centuries later in 1980, for the visit of Pope 102
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John Paul II. Unlike other infiorate, which usually celebrate Corpus Christi, the one in Gerano has a unique tradition. The party begins in the afternoon, with the Calata ceremony, when the painting, which is kept hidden all year, is lowered into the crowd of the faithful and held upright by two priests, while the Ave Maris Stella is sung. Overnight, the townspeople of Gerano create an enormous carpet of flowers. On Sunday, at dawn, the ringing of church bells and the blasting of firecrackers announce the celebration. The procession through the village streets begins at noon, after a solemn mass, and concludes with the procession passing over the flower design, while holding the sacred painting. The festival continues until evening; ending with the Sciarrata, the destruction of the floral carpet by children who, among shouts and laughter, jump on and trample the images, throwing handfuls of flowers and leaves at one another. The Museo dell’Infiorata with its important collection of photographic material, is worth a visit. Another museum, the only one of its kind in Italy, is the Casa delle Antiche Scatole di Latta (old tin boxes), this permanent exhibition of sweet boxes, will take you down memory lane as you discover history’s sweeter side. Cerreto Laziale Rising above the foothills of the Monti Ruffi, this village has an ancient history, evidenced by the remains of its polygonal walls and Roman buildings. Worth a visit are: the Chiesa dell’Assunta from the 12th–13th centuries; the church of San Sebastiano from the 16th century; the 14th-century tower that dominates the old town.
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The architecture of the Benedictine monasteries St Benedict’s concept of a monastery was that of a place to practice asceticism; a school in which Christ bestowed his teaching through the abbot, a father and role model of the community. Those who retreated into a monastery devoted themselves to stabilitas, committing their entire lives to that one place with their brothers. The monks were not required to carry out pastoral duties, nor did they have links to the ecclesiastical authorities. Each monastery was autonomous, a ‘fortress of faith’, which observed strict seclusion from the outside world. For that reason, the Rule that St Benedict imposed upon his monks, united religious practice and work, which was essential in ensuring the monastery was completely self-sufficient. Architecturally, this vision translated from the outset into a design that clearly integrated withdrawal from the world with a mighty fence, inside which the various community buildings huddled together and, at the centre of which, stood the church with the chapter house, the places of prayer and conversation respectively. The monasteries of Santa Scolastica and Monte Cassino were built according to this plan, which was inspired by the orient. Whenever the natural setting already provided for seclusion from the outside world, such as the sacred caves, all that was needed was to raise some internal walls to create the interior spaces, as in the case of the Sacro Speco. In choosing the location to build a monastery, great consideration was given to the natural environment. While the monastery required an environment that would ensure its sustenance, it also needed to be isolated to escape the influences of the world. Soon, these natural solutions gave way to more geometric designs that were consolidated into a plan that would remain almost unchanged for centuries. The church was built on the north side, providing shelter from the cold, northern winds. On the eastern side were the spaces in which the monks went about their daily lives: the dormitory, the chapter house and the only heated area, the calefactorium. The southern end opened to the refectory and kitchen; the western side housed the pantry and the guesthouse. The cloister lay at the centre of the complex, usually in the shape of a square, and framed with an arcade. Most likely based on the Roman domus courtyards, this area was used for meditation, rest and breaks from the activities taking place indoors. The centre devoted to communal life, was often the most carefully designed area in the entire abbey and, as the architectural symbol of the introverted vocation of monastic life, it shaped it to such a degree that the two have become inseparable.
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Subiaco
MONASTERY OF SANTA SCOLASTICA.
The cosmatesque cloister.
We have finally arrived at the first big milestone; taking at least one day off is a must! Subiaco is a key location in the Benedictine experience, a mix of spirituality, history, art and nature. Its Latin name, Sublacum, originates from the three lakes that Emperor Nero, who built a sumptuous villa here, created by damming the Aniene. At the end of the 5th century, when St Benedict of Nursia arrived, the populace was already Christian and primitive forms of monastic life were already in practice. St Benedict isolated himself inside a cave on Mount Talèo, and after three years as a hermit, he utilised the remnants of Nero’s villa to found San Clemente, the first of 13 monasteries that he would establish in this valley. Here, he practiced the kind of monastic life that he articulated in the Regula, and which he would develop more fully Monte Cassino. Although Subiaco is mostly known for its Benedictine monasteries, its historic centre has a wealth of picturesque corners, squares and alleys that have remained unchanged in time, and it is well worth a visit. For a more detailed description of the main landmarks please refer to a tourist guide, as my list is limited to an overview of the most unmissable attractions.
Monastery of San Benedetto (Sacro Speco) While Pe-
trarch called it “the threshold to paradise”, in 1461, it appeared to Pius II like a “swallow’s nest” set against the rugged rock face of Monte Talèo, in a picturesque location overlooking the Valle Santa. It consists of two superimposed churches, chapels, vaults and stairs, which are irregularly connected according to the curvature of the cliff. 105
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The frescoes by the Sienese school (14th century), the floor and the pulpit, in the upper church, are all magnificent. The lower church houses frescoes by Conxolus (13th century); the Grotta Santa where St Benedict lived for three years; the famous and moving fresco of St Francis of Assisi, which was created when the saint was still living; the chapel of the Virgin Mary, with frescoes by the Sienese school; the Grotta dei Pastori. Visiting hours: 9:00 am – 12:30 pm, 3:00 pm – 6:00 pm. Mass: weekdays, 8:00 am; public holidays, 9:30 am – 11:00 am.
Monastery of Santa Scolastica Of the 13 monasteries founded
by St Benedict, this is the oldest remaining. Dedicated to San Silvestro by its founder, it assumed its present name at the end of the 14th century. The spectacular bell tower was constructed before any in Rome, and the cosmatesque cloister is truly a jewel. The library is significant for its collection of 150,000 volumes; 213 incunabula; 4,000 parchments, and the first book printed in Italy. In 1465 the Germans Sweynheim and Pannartz, both Gutenberg’s students, set up the first Italian printing press here. Visiting hours: 9:30 am – 12:30 pm, 3:30 pm – 7:00 pm. Mass: weekdays, 7:45 am (sung); sung vespers, 7:00 pm (winter), 7:30 pm (summer). Public holidays, 10:00 am (sung) / 4:30 pm; sung vespers, 7:00 pm (winter), 7:30 pm (summer).
Convent of San Francesco The convent and church are built in an area that Abbot Lando wanted to donate to St Francis when, in 1223, the Poor Man of Assisi arrived as a pilgrim at the Sacro Speco. The church, in typical Franciscan style, houses valuable frescoes by Sodoma and a beautiful Nativity by Pinturicchio. Bridge of San Francesco Erected in 1358 by Abbot Adhémar who used the ransom paid by Tivoli for the release of prisoners captured by the abbey’s army at the battle of Campo d’Arco. It consists of one 37-m arch and is overlooked by a watchtower that is adjacent to the Via Sublacense, it is a valuable and well-preserved legacy of medieval Subiaco. Rocca dei Borgia Built as a feudal castle in the 11th century. In the 15th century, Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia (future Pope Alexander VI) fortified it and lived here with his family. Here, Cesare and Lucrezia Borgia were born here. Recently, an educational print museum has opened in the Rocca. An interactive multimedia journey takes visitors through the history of printing, allowing them to touch the vintage machinery, the reproductions of medieval instruments, and to retrace the town’s history, such as the paper mill which was opened by Pope Sixtus V in 1587, and which remained in operation for more than four centuries. Open Saturdays and Sundays: 10:00 am – 8:00 pm. 106
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Concattedrale di Sant’Andrea Built in the 18th century by order of Pius VI, who donated great works of art to Subiaco. In addition to the cathedral, he had the seminary and the town hall built, the paper mill extended, and the Rocca dei Borgia renovated. These are the reasons why the citizens dedicated to him the arco trionfale at the town’s entrance, which the Pope himself inaugurated during his visit in 1789. Natural environment The presence of the Aniene river and the Monti Simbruini park, make Subiaco unique, not only as a spiritual place, but also as an important centre for mountain and river sports. Vivere l’Aniene Experiencing an exciting river descent with a river guide, inside a secure raft, you will be able to enjoy the landscape and the river from a different perspective, and even treat yourself to a swim (in summer only) in the river’s clear, icy waters. Info: Vivere l’Aniene, town centre, under the Sant’Antonio bridge: tel. 320-96.81.006. Trekking in the Monti Simbruini The magnificent setting of the Monti Simbruini will provide those with the time, the opportunity to undertake some appealing excursions. A mini-trek recommended for its beautiful scenery, is that to the Santissima Trinità di Vallepietra (see Cultural Insight, Stage 11). From the train station in Piazza Falcone, take the bus to Campo dell’Osso (two departures in the morning: check the Cotral website for the schedule), and from there go to Le Vedute (1750m asl), a scenic outlook over the Simbrivio valley. Following a spectacular ridge trail (CAI trail 651) that passes below Monte Autore, we arrive at the square first, then the sanctuary of Santissima Trinità (1340m asl). The trip takes about three hours plus the 40-minute bus ride. From the Santissima Trinità you can return to Subiaco by hiking the path in reverse and taking the bus back (there is only one afternoon departure). Alternatively, you can hike to Trevi along the road, downhill for 14.5km, to Ponte Castello (4km past the spectacular hamlet of Vallepietra). From there, follow a lane on the left, from which the CAI path 692a departs (Via dei Lupi). After about 7km, the path rises to 975m asl (Ara Vecchia), then descends to Trevi. Throughout the summer, the shrine is visited by numerous pilgrims; if you have a mat and sleeping bag, you can stay overnight (you can purchase a sandwich from the stalls in the square and water and toilets are provided). Obviously, you will need adequate mountaineering equipment. Buy a hiking map of the Monti Simbruini park in Subiaco.
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St Benedict in Subiaco Of all the important events in St Benedict’s life in Subiaco (eight of the chapters in the Dialogues take place here), I have chosen those that in my opinion, are the most meaningful in relation to the Benedictine spirit. I encourage anyone wanting a more comprehensive picture of the saint’s life, to read Gregory the Great’s full text, which I have listed in the bibliography.
The first miracle
The miracle of Enfide (now Affile) is a wonderful example of Benedict’s humanity. Moved by his loyal nursemaid Cirilla’s desperation, he prayed to the Lord to intervene. Having abandoned his literary studies, Benedict decided to retreat to a solitary place. But the nursemaid, who was closely bonded to him, did not want to leave him and was able to follow him by herself. And so they left. When they arrived in Enfide, they had to accept the charity of many generous people and they had to interrupt the journey; so they took residence at St Peter’s church. A few days later, the nursemaid, who needed to winnow some wheat, asked the neighbours to lend her an earthenware sieve. But having left it carelessly on the table, it accidentally fell and broke in half. Now what? The utensil was not hers, but borrowed: she began to cry desperately. The young man, religious and pious as he was, at the sight of those tears, took pity on so much pain: he took the two broken pieces and went to pray and wept. When he rose from his prayer, he found the sieve was completely mended, without any sign of a crack: “No more tears,” he said, gently consoling the nursemaid. “Here’s the broken sieve. It is fixed!” The story made the rounds of the town, and it so impressed the inhabitants, that they hung the sieve at the church entrance, to let everyone, including future generations, know the degree of grace by which Benedict had commenced his journey towards perfection. The sieve remained in place, in plain sight, for many years and until the recent Lombard time, it hung above the church door.
Subiaco
To avoid the attention generated by the first miracle, Benedict retreated to the Subiaco area. The three years he spent as a hermit living in the cave on Monte Talèo, were fundamental to Benedict’s spiritual development. As a seed dies to bear fruit, the experience of retreating from the world and devoting himself to God extinguished the young man and gave birth to the abbot, legislator, and saint. It was the year 497. 108
St Benedict in Subiaco
In Subiaco, in the bowels of the earth, the extraordinary Benedictine adventure was burgeoning. Rather than seeking aggrandisement and honour in his life, Benedict, who disdained the world’s admiration, preferred to endure hardships and discomfort for the love of God. For this reason, he abandoned his nursemaid and fled in secret. He headed for a remote and solitary place, called Subiaco, about 40 miles from Rome; an area with a wealth of fresh water gathering in a large lake that turns into a river. Thus, he hastened his step to reach his destination and, along the way, he met a monk named Roman, who asked him where he was going. Informed of Benedict’s purpose, the monk decided to help him. He dressed him in a saintly gown, symbol of devotion to God, gave him what basic necessities he could spare and renewed his promise of secrecy. In that lonely place, the man of God hid himself inside a narrow, rough cave. Three years he hid in there without anyone knowing, except for Roman the monk. The latter lived close by, in a small monastery under the leadership of Father Adeodato. He charitably sought out the right moment to save a portion of his meal and bring it to Benedict on set days. However, a massive cliff above the cave made it impossible to walk there from Roman’s monastery. Roman skilfully delivered the food from the top of the cliff, using a long rope to which he attached a bell: upon hearing the bell, the man of God came to collect it. But God, who is almighty, wanted Roman to stop his laborious charity. Even more, he wanted Benedict’s life to become a luminous beacon to all; this resplendent light, placed above the candelabrum, would radiate his glow to everyone residing in the house of God. For this reason, the Lord himself deigned to find a way. A priest, who lived far away, had prepared himself a meal for Easter Day. Suddenly, behold, he had a vision. It was the Lord, who said: “You have prepared yourself delicious food and that is fine. But look over there. See those places? There, one of my servants is going hungry.” The good priest jumped to his feet and on that solemn Easter Day, collected the food he had prepared and hurried in the direction shown him. He searched for the man of God among the mountain cliffs, the creeks and valleys, the crags and the caves. At last, he found him, hidden inside the cave. First, they both praised the Lord with blessings and prayers. Then, they sat together and exchanged thoughts on the things of heaven. “Now,” said the priest, “let us have some food, for today is Easter.” “Oh, yes!” said Benedict, “Today is Easter because I had the grace to see you.” So reclusive was the servant of God that he was unaware of the Easter holiday. “Actually, today really is the day of the Lord’s Resurrection.” The priest insisted, “Therefore, you should not fast. I was sent here so we could eat together, like good brothers, these gifts bestowed upon us by God’s omnipotence.” And so, with praise for God on their lips, they dined.
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St Benedict in Subiaco
Some time later, some shepherds discovered Benedict in the cave. Having glimpsed him in the forest, covered in skins, at first they mistook him for a wild beast. But after recognising he was as a true servant of God, many of them who really were like beasts, were changed by grace and devoted themselves to the holy life. Following these events, his fame spread to all the neighbouring villages. The visitors became increasingly frequent; people brought food to support his body and left with their hearts filled with holy words, their souls nourished.
The poisoned wine – the 12 monasteries
According to tradition, this event took place in Vicovaro, where the convent of San Cosimato is today. This is the first instance in which an ominous event (some corrupt monks attempting to poison Benedict after insisting he be their abbot) resulted in a godsend, spurring the saint to pursue his divine goals. The same hand of God, who broke the glass containing the deadly poison, showed Benedict the way. That is: not to set unrealistic goals, wasting energy and peace of mind in reforming devious monks, but engaging in work that, human limitations notwithstanding, has greater chance of success. Benedict was a realist whose talent for edifying people was even greater than that for establishing monasteries. He was a mature man who was ready to be an abbot, but, Benedict turned his back on the wayward monks, and returned to his cave. His isolation did not last for long, however. A crowd of disciples genuinely intent on seeking God through an Apostolic community, prompted him to create organised monasteries. Which is how western monasticism came to be. The man of God, continued to bear ever more abundant. vigorous fruits of virtue just like a well-tended field in which the thorns have been swept away. Because he led a truly saintly life, his fame spread far and wide. Near the cave lived a small religious community whose leader had recently passed away. The members of the community presented themselves before the venerable Benedict, beseeching him to take over as their leader. The holy man refused firmly and repeatedly, because he thought their customs where incompatible with his beliefs. But in the end, overcome by their persistence, he acquiesced. He followed them to their monastery and started overseeing the daily activities. Unlike before, no one could afford to deviate either left or right from the path of monastic observance that was set out. This made everyone tired and irritable, and foolish as they were, they bickered and blamed one another for the new abbot; their behaviour clashing against his righteousness. (...) those wicked men agreed to seek a means to take his life. Several plans were hatched. Finally, they resolved to poison the wine. At mealtime, as per the custom, they presented the abbot with a glass vessel containing the deadly wine for the blessing.
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St Benedict in Subiaco
Benedict raised his hand, making the sign of the cross. Though the vessel was held at some distance, the holy symbol shattered the glass as if a rock had been hurled at it. The man of God immediately understood that the vessel contained a deadly drink because it could not withstand the symbol that gives life. He stood, and without altering the mild expression on his face nor the serenity in his mind, he asked the brothers to gather before him and stated simply: “I ask the Lord to forgive you, dear brothers, but why did you make this plan against me? I warned you that our customs were incompatible: can you see it is true? That’s enough; find a new leader who agrees with your ideas, because after what has happened, I no longer wish to be among you.” Thus, he returned to the solitary cave that he loved so much, and stayed there all alone, under the eyes of He who sees all. In isolation, Benedict progressed along the path of virtue without interruption, and performed miracles. Many had gathered around him in the service of God almighty, and in such large numbers that, with the help of the Lord Jesus Christ, he created 12 monasteries, each with an abbot and 12 monks. At his side, he kept a small group whom he believed would benefit from more personal and comprehensive training. Some noblemen and religious people from Rome sought him out, entrusting their children to his care to educate them in the service of God almighty. Among them, Euthicus entrusted his Maur, and the patrician Tertullus his Placid. These two youngsters were true hopefuls. Maur, a teenager of saintly habits, quickly became the master’s assistant. Placid, was still a child with all the characteristics of his age.
The poisoned loaf, the dancers, departure from Subiaco
In Subiaco, Benedict performed many miracles: he exorcised demons; a second Moses, he made water gush from the rock; he interceded so that Maur could walk on water to save young Placid from drowning in the lake. All this elicited the envy of a local priest, a certain Florentius, who at first attempted to do away with him physically, but being unsuccessful, he then tried corrupting the monks. Once again, Benedict remained unperturbed. He abandoned Subiaco and went to Monte Cassino. As with the incident of the poisoned wine, a greater good arose from something evil. While Florentius was duly punished, Benedict carried out his plan for a community life in accordance with the Rule, which he had formulated during the 30 years of his experience in Subiaco. In Monte Cassino, he would draft its final version. All the areas surrounding the saint’s abode experienced the development of religious fervour for Jesus Christ our Lord; many people abandoned their centurial lives and curbed their prideful hearts by bonding with the Redeemer.
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St Benedict in Subiaco
Unfortunately, there was always the unfortunate clashing of villainy against the virtue of others, for whom they cared not in the least. In a nearby church, a priest named Florentius, ancestor of our sub-deacon Florentius and influenced by a malignant spirit, began to burn with envy for the man of God’s virtuous progress. He spread doubt about his holiness and tried to prevent as many people as he could from going to him. However, not only was he powerless to stop Benedict’s progress, but as the reputation of his holiness continued to spread, it inspired others to choose the path of perfection. Consumed by envy, he became increasingly malicious, partly because he sought praise for his conduct, despite not leading a praiseworthy life. Blinded by this envy, he eventually came up with a sinister plan. He sent the almighty Lord’s servant a poisoned loaf of bread disguised as a blessed token of friendship. The man of God accepted it with great appreciation, but he was not oblivious to the noxious menace hidden in the bread. Usually, a crow from the nearby forest arrived at meal times, accustomed to pecking the bread from his hand. It so happened that on that day the man of God threw the bread he was given before him and said: “In the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, take this bread and throw it in a place where no one can find it.” The crow opened his beak wide and stretched out his wings, flitting around and cawing as if a force prevented him from following the command. The servant of God repeated: “Go on, take it without fear and throw it where it can never be found again.” After hesitating a while longer, the crow finally seized the loaf in its beak and flew away. He returned about three hours later without the bread and then, as usual, he took food from the man of God’s hand. From this incident, the venerable Father understood that the priest’s soul was enraged against him and felt deeply pained, not so much for himself but for the hapless man. Meanwhile, Florentius, having failed to kill the master in the flesh, plotted to destroy his disciples’ souls. For this purpose, he introduced seven naked girls into the monastery garden. They held hands and danced for a long while under the monks’ gaze, trying to awaken impure desires in their souls. When the saint noticed this, he feared that his young disciples, who were still tender in spirit, might capitulate, though he knew very well that it was all intended to torment him. Therefore, he decided it would be best to yield to the jealousy of the other. Making arrangements for the monasteries he had established, he assigned the leaders and added more brothers. Then, he took a few monks with him and left to go and live elsewhere. The man of God had only just departed, humbly avoiding that man’s hatred, when God almighty inflicted a horrendous punishment on that man. While he stood on the terrace gloating over the news that Benedict had left, suddenly, the terrace collapsed beneath him and while the rest of the building remained strong, Benedict’s enemy was crushed by the rubble.
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St Benedict in Subiaco
The disciple Maur thought he should inform the venerable father, who was no more than 10 miles away, and sent him this message: “Come back, Father, because the priest that taunted you has died.� Upon hearing the news, the man of God burst into tears, not only because the enemy was dead, but also because his disciple was happy about it.
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