THE ROUTE
La Verna Where to sleep For those who arrive at the departure point for the Way by car, Chiusi is the ideal place to leave it, as it is a quiet place with a number of car parks; inform the traffic police that the car will remain there for several days. Coaches arrive in Chiusi from both Arezzo and Sansepolcro (LFI service - Linea Ferroviaria Italiana). LA VERNA: Accommodation for pilgrims at the Sanctuary of La Verna, where the friars have created a dormitory for pilgrims (13 beds), where you can stay, including dinner and breakfast, in return for a donation. This fine accommodation also arranges a blessing for pilgrims on their departure in the morning, after the Lauds. It is a good idea to book a bed in advance. At La Foresteria, for a charge, there is the extensive possibility of accommodation in rooms. Tel. 0575-53.41, closed between Epiphany (6th January) and the end of February. In town there are various possibilities of
lodgings if the sanctuary is full. CHIUSI DELLA VERNA: Villa delle Rose (Vincentian Nuns), lodgings, dinner and breakfast (0575-59.90.15). Albergo Ristorante Bellavista, near the path that leads to the sanctuary, family-run, 15 rooms with 30 beds, excellent pilgrim prices. Possibility of dinner, ask the owner Signor Gilberto, tel. 0575-59.90.29, gilbertogabelli@ gmail.com. It is the only structure open throughout the year. tc Hotel da Giovanna, at the beginning of the path that leads to the Sanctuary of La Verna, 3 stars, family-run, 14 rooms with all conveniences, restaurant and summer swimming pool. Discounted prices for pilgrims. Ask for Signor Fausto, tel. 0575-59.92.75 / 335-56.16.917, info@dagiovannahotel. com. t Locanda del buon cammino, viale Michelangelo, pilgrim prices, use of kitchen. Discounted restaurant. Tel. 0575-59.92.75 / 335-56.16.917 (Signor Fausto), info@ dagiovannahotel.com. tcha
Setting off It is not hard to imagine how this mountain [✍] appeared to Francis and his brothers when they climbed it for the first time, even if the many subsequent constructions and the visitors’ coaches seem to belie this. The forest of tall beech trees, firs, maples and ashes welcomes you into its damp, green embrace right from the gate, and you just need to take a few steps up the slopes of Mount Penna to find yourself on the rocky chasms where Francis so gladly spent his time. Of course everything that has been built there is after his time, and probably does not comply with his specific wishes: Francis had it written in his Will that all the brothers’ dwellings must be made of mud and wood, to denote poverty and humility, and that the churches that are built for them are to be small... Perugian Legend − 1631
But it is well known that the history of the successors of the great masters in all places, at all times and in all religions has followed paths that some32
LA VERNA
LA VERNA.
The beautiful terrace-cloister.
times deviate from the original teachings. So huge monasteries and imposing churches have been built in Francis’ name; however, great artists have left works in these that, once again, return to the Master’s original spirit, perhaps animated by the power of that initial message that still breaks through all superstructures. After visiting the most significant places in the sanctuary, it is time to climb Mount Penna. The majority of visitors do not do this, so you just need to take a few steps to find yourself alone under the great trees. The view is unequalled and the silence is only animated by the wind and the birdsong. You won’t want to go down again! For those who spend the night here before beginning the walk, the twilight hours will undoubtedly be the most beautiful. If you wish to, you can go into the church and experience moments of prayer with the friars or sit on the great terrace to contemplate the setting sun; the embrace that will envelop you will be powerful.
From Chiusi to the sanctuary The old road uphill to the sanctuary is that of La Beccia, a hamlet at the foot of the crag on which the convent is built. The road is paved and has the stations of the via crucis alongside it; it is undoubtedly the most beautiful and charming way to go up the mountain. From the town hall building, go along the asphalt road to Bibbiena for around a kilometre and a half; the group of houses of La Beccia will appear on the left. Along the way is the little Chapel of the Birds, where Francis was greeted by them. At the end of the steep slope you are welcomed by some writing, on the arch that allows you into the sanctuary, which says in 33
LA VERNA
Latin: “There is no holier mountain in the world”. Another itinerary, rather steep but quick (around 20 minutes up to the sanctuary), is the “nature route” that starts off from the “Da Giovanni” restaurant and then joins the route for La Beccia.
What to see La Verna The works of Andrea della Robbia and his school are here. Three of the many beautiful works contain all the poetry and delicacy of the Renaissance, but also the spirit of Francis, relived two centuries later: the Annunciation and the Nativity in the basilica and the magnificent Crucifixion in the Chapel of the Stigmata. Glazed terracotta, the poorest, simplest material, transformed into a masterpiece. Stop and look at the lowered eyes of the Virgin in the Annunciation or the cries engraved on the faces of the moon and the sun in the Crucifixion. Furthermore, in the church, conserved in a glass showcase on an altar (on the right side) is Francis’ walking stick... very moving for us pilgrims! Now “abandon” art and, with these images in your mind, go into the Chapel of Maria Maddalena; it is located after the first flight of stairs leading to the rock called the Sasso Spicco. Few enter and even fewer stay a while. It is said that Francis’ first hut was built here and that on the altar is the stone on which Jesus appeared to Francis: it is an intimate and “magical” place. Finally, go down to the Sasso Spicco: a natural setting of rocks and moss.
Chiusi At the foot of the sanctuary. The first settlement dates back to the Etruscan Roman Age, but it was to find its full development in the Middle Ages, located as it was on the pilgrimage route towards Rome. It was Count Orlando Catani of Chiusi who gave the mountain to Francis in 1213. The patrons of Chiusi are St. Francis and the Archangel Michael, emphasising that the mountain was previously dedicated to the Archangel.
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Francis at La Verna Our walk in the steps of Francis begins in the place symbolising his spiritual path: here, as in Assisi, his presence was − and is − almost palpable. Everything began when in 1213 Francis and Friar Leo went to San Leo in Montefeltro coming from Rimini to preach to a crowd that was gathering there for the investiture of a knight. Gift of Mount La Verna The Fioretti [Little Flowers of St. Francis] tells us that Francis said to his companion: Come, let us go up unto this festival, for, by God’s help, we shall gather therefrom rich spiritual fruit.
In the crowd was Count Orlando Catani of Chiusi in Casentino, who: ... being touched in heart by God through the marvellous preaching of St Francis, was led to speak to him after the sermon touching the state of his soul. This happened and then Orlando said: “I have a mountain in Tuscany, a devout and solitary place, called Mount Alvernia, far from all discourse of men, well fitted for one who would do penance for his sins, or who desires to lead a solitary life; if it please thee, I will freely give it to thee and thy companions for the welfare of my soul”. Francis was very happy with the offer and sent some of his companions to the count, who had them accompanied to the mountain by no less than fifty soldiers: ... to be their defence against wild beasts. They chose the most inaccessible area and built a little hut for themselves and Francis and then returned to Santa Maria degli Angeli to inform him that Mount La Verna was: ... well fitted for devout contemplation.
The climb to La Verna Francis’ first climb up La Verna is full of beautiful and highly significant episodes in the life of the Saint; indeed, a few years after his death Giotto decided to paint them on the walls of the Upper Basilica of Assisi. Thus the images have reached us of the farmer who had lent his donkey to the friars to transport Francis, but it was too weak to climb the mountain and, following them, was thirsty, so Francis had made a spring gush forth. The image of the birds that welcomed him rejoicing has also reached us:
35
Francis at La Verna
... And then they were come to about the midst of the ascent of the mount, because the way was toilsome, and the heat exceeding great, the peasant was overcome with thirst, insomuch that he began to cry after St Francis saying: “Alas! alas! I am dying of thirst...” Then St Francis dismounted from the ass, and betook himself to prayer, remaining upon his knees, with hands uplifted up to heaven, until he knew by revelation that his prayer was heard. Then said he to the peasant: “Run quickly to yonder rock, and there thou shalt find a stream of living water, which Jesus Christ of his mercy has caused to flow out from the stone”. ... for neither before nor after was a spring to be found at that spot... Fioretti – 1902 ... And when they drew near to the rock of Alvernia, it pleased St Francis to rest awhile under an oak, which grew by the way, and is still to be seen there, and from thence he began to consider the position of the place and the country. And while he was thus considering, behold there came a great multitude of birds from divers regions, which, by singing and clapping their wings, testified great joy and gladness, and surrounded St. Francis in such wise, that some perched upon his shoulders, some on his arms, some on his bosom, and others at his feet. Fioretti − 1903
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1
LA VERNA ➜ PIEVE SANTO STEFANO
From La Verna to Pieve Santo Stefano
1
1.400
400
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO
600
PASSO DELLE PRATELLE
800
MONTE CALVANO
1.000
LA VERNA
1.200
200 m 0 km
LENGTH:
5
15.2 km
UPHILL HEIGHT DIFFERENCE:
240 m DOWNHILL HEIGHT DIFFERENCE: 950 m TIME: 4 hours DIFFICULTY: easy
Where to sleep JUST BEFORE PIEVE SANTO STEFANO, diversion
indicated, B&B Il castellare. 23 beds available at pilgrim prices (in a dormitory at even lower prices). Possibility of meals with fixed menu. Tel. 0575-79.93.93 / 339-34.63.117. info@ilcastellare.eu. tcha PIEVE SANTO STEFANO: Hotel Santo Stefano, 3 stars. On entry to the town coming from La Verna. Pilgrim prices, considering the level of the facility. Possibility of arranging concessions
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for groups. Tel. 0575-79.71.29 / 33578.44.520, Valerio Calabresi), info@hotelsantostefanoarezzo.it. c Camping la Civetta, past the town, on the road to Sansepolcro, free shuttle service from the town centre; 4 bungalows with bedsheets and blankets, use of kitchen (16 places); 9 tent places. Pilgrim prices. Breakfast on request. Tel. 338-46.89.145 / 335-54.38.403, info@ civetta.it. tcha Only for animals, Maneggio Helios, next to the sports field. Stables, fenced enclosure or paddock, pilgrim price, possibility of guided horse itineraries. Lorna, tel. 33340.07.493, lodihelios@gmail.com. tcha
First stage through woods and grassland, a few short uphill stretches and a long, constant descent as far as the small town of Pieve Santo Stefano. There will be plenty of time to get used to the pace and, on arrival, to visit the centre with its beautiful church adorned with ceramics by the Della Robbia family.
The route is all on paths. After leaving the Sanctuary of La Verna [✍], go down along the road immediately after the gate till you come to a large car park. Go past it, passing to the left of a wooden bar-restaurant. At the first right turn of the road the 50 ANELLO BASSO path begins and you enter the woods [1.1]. This is the old road that goes along the side of Mount Penna and leads, with a few ups and downs, to a well marked junction. You have reached the Croce della Calla [1.2]. Turn right, towards Tre Vescovi, and climb up along a ridge; you soon reach a new junction; keep following the indica39
1
LA verna ➜ Pieve santo stefano
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO.
Documents in the National Diary Archive.
tions for Tre Vescovi, turning to the right [1.3]. The path climbs to the top of a hill, Monte Calvano. We are now in a beautiful sloping meadow [1.4], which you must go right across. From here you can admire the whole valley of Pieve Santo Stefano (the walk from the junction to the meadow takes about 30 minutes). Having walked across the meadow, you go down along the path, which soon afterwards joins a cart track after going through a gate. The road follows the ridge as far as Passo delle Pratelle, going through two more gates; here you come across a series of road signs [1.5]. Continue along path 066 as far as the junction on the right with path 075, which you take going up into a wood; turn left at the junction, from here the narrow path begins to descend, then becoming a cart track up to the gates of PIEVE SANTO STEFANO. If you are sleeping at the Castellare, pay attention to the signs on the right of the path [1.6] before arriving at Pieve Santo Stefano, which take you directly there.
What to see Pieve Santo Stefano In a notarial deed from 723 we read that Tedaldo, a gentleman of Tiphernum (CittĂ di Castello), donated a monastery built by him at Cerbarolum (Cerbaiolo) to the Benedictine monks, and this is the first document in which it is called Pieve. In 1589, a supernatural event brought Pieve into the limelight: hordes of angels bearing burning torches were seen at nighttime heading in procession towards a sacred image painted on the wall of a niche along the road leading to Sansepolcro. The following year, the first stone of the SANCTUARY OF THE MADONNA DEI LUMI [Virgin of the Lights] was laid. In 1612 the miraculous image was placed above the high altar. The COLLEGIATA DI SANTO STEFANO [Collegiate Church of St. Stephen]. The parish church from 1200 was reconstructed in 1800 in Neoclassical style. Inside it there is a beautiful glazed terracotta altar frontal by Andrea della Robbia representing the Assumption and saints. Another work by Della Robbia, depicting the Samaritan Woman at the Well, is visible in the Municipal Council Room in the town hall (ask at the entrance and they will show it to you). The CITY OF THE DIARY holds an archive that, since 1984, has gathered the diaries and correspondence of ordinary Italians: countesses, Red Brigade members, drug addicts, trade unionists, nuns and international cooperative members. An extraordinary example of history written from the bottom up. The archive promotes a competition with a prize for the best diary. 40
The Final Stay at La Verna We do not know how many times Francis went to La Verna; what we do know for sure is that, after this first time, he was on the mountain at least one last time to spend the Lent of St. Michael, which went from the day of the Assumption of the Virgin, on 15th August, to that of the Archangel on 29th September, in prayer. It was in that Lent period in 1124 that he asked God to give him a sign showing that it was His will for him to spend this period of solitude there: ... When blessed Francis stayed constantly in a place to pray, or when he went through the world preaching, he was always anxious to know the will of the Lord, about how he could please Him better. He was sometimes afraid that, under the pretext of remaining in prayer in a remote place, the body wanted to rest... ... In early morning at dawn, while he stood in prayer, birds of various kinds came over the cell where he was staying. They did not come all together, but first one would come and sing its sweet verse, and then go away, and another one come and sing and go away. They all did the same... the Lord told him in spirit: “This is a sign that the Lord will do good for you in this cell and give you many consolations”. Perugian Legend − 1649 [Francis of Assisi: The Founder: Early Documents, pp. 226-7]
Brother Falcon Into the cell every day came Brother Falcon, the compassionate hawk who only woke him up at the right time for prayer when Francis was not too tired. When he extended his stay there, a falcon nesting there bound itself to him in a great covenant of friendship with him. For at the hour of the night when the holy man usually rose for the divine office, it anticipated him with its noise and song. But when Christ’s servant was more than usually burdened with illness, the falcon would spare him and would not announce such early vigils. As if instructed by God, at about dawn it would ring the bell of its voice with a light touch. The Major Legend of St. Francis by Bonaventure of Bagnoregio − 1158 [Francis of Assisi: The Founder: Early Documents pp. 593-4]
Brother Leo Isolated on a mountain, Francis did not forget his brothers, especially those − such as Brother Leo, the lamb of God − who had always been beside him and those who in a moment of temptation wanted to have a writing by St. Francis to help them combat it. It is to this temptation of Leo that we owe the precious manuscript by Francis on La Verna that is conserved in Assisi: 41
The Final Stay at La Verna
... He ordered that brother to bring him paper and ink. And he wrote down with his own hand the Praises of the Lord according to the brother’s desire, and, at the end, a blessing for him, saying “Take this paper for yourself and keep it carefully until your dying day”. The Major Legend of St. Francis by Bonaventure of Bagnoregio − 1197 [Francis of Assisi: The Founder: Early Documents − p. 618]
The stigmata But La Verna would not have the importance it has in Franciscan history if the mystery of the stigmata, recounted by Dante in Canto XI of Paradiso, had not occurred there. On 14th September 1224, some sores appeared on his body, already weakened by illness... Never in history had such a fact occurred. ... On a certain morning about the feast of the Exaltation of the Cross, while Francis was praying on the mountainside, he saw a Seraph having six wings, fiery as well as brilliant, descend from the grandeur of Heaven. And when in swift flight, it had arrived in the air at a spot near the man of God, there appeared between the wings the likeness of a man crucified, with his hands and feet extended in the shape of a cross and fastened to a cross. Two of the wings were raised above his head, two were extended for flight, and two covered his whole body. ... ... As the vision was disappearing it left in his heart a marvellous desire and imprinted on his flesh a likeness of signs no less marvellous. For immediately the marks of nails began to appear on his hands and on his feet just he had seen a little before in the figure of the man crucified. His hands and feet seemed to be pierced through the centre by nails, with the heads of the nails appearing on the inner side of the hands and the upper side of the feet and their points on the opposite sides. Their points were oblong and bent as if driven back with a hammer, and they emerged from the flesh and stuck out beyond it... Minor Legend of St. Francis by Bonaventure of Bagnoregio − 1375 [Francis of Assisi: The Founder: Early Documents − p. 632]
Farewell to La Verna At the end of the Lent period, on a donkey given to him by Count Orlando, Francis was to embark upon the long journey that was to take him to Assisi. It was the last time he left his beloved retreat and his farewell to the mountain − attributed to Brother Masseo, who was in La Verna with Francis at that time − is a masterpiece of poetry and is full of that “tenderness” for men and for nature that we find throughout the journey of his life. ... Rest in peace, my dearest children. May God bless you. My dearest children, farewell! I am leaving you in the body, but I leave my heart behind with you. I am going away with Fra Pecorella di Dio; I am going to Santa Maria degli Angeli, and I shall return hither no more.
42
The Final Stay at La Verna
I am going: farewell, farewell, farewell, to all! Farewell, 0 Mountain! Farewell, farewell, Mount La Verna! Farewell, Mount of Angels! Farewell, my best beloved; 0 best beloved, farewell! Brother Falcon, I thank thee for the charity thou didst use me. Farewell, Sasso Spicco! Farewell, great rock! Farewell, farewell, farewell, 0 rock that didst receive me into thy bowels, confounding the wiles of the evil one. Alas! we may meet no more. Farewell, Santa Maria degli Angeli!’ O Mother of the Eternal Word, I commend to thee these my dear sons!” “And while our dear father was speaking thus,” continues poor Masseo, “our eyes were shedding fountains of tears, and he departed, weeping likewise, taking with him our hearts, and leaving us orphans indeed, for the loss of such a father. I, Frate Masseo, have writ all this.
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2
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO ➜ PASSO DI VIAMAGGIO
From Pieve Santo Stefano to Passo di Viamaggio
2
PASSO DI VIAMAGGIO
600
EREMO DI CERBAIOLO
800
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO
1.000
400
200 m 0 km
LENGTH:
5
11 km
UPHILL HEIGHT DIFFERENCE:
630 m DOWNHILL HEIGHT DIFFERENCE: 120 m TIME: 4 hours DIFFICULTY: challenging
Where to sleep Shuttle service for pilgrims to and from the trail at B&B Ristorante la Baita dell’Imperatore (5 km from the route), 14 beds in 7 rooms. Tel. 0575-79.01.32 / 0575-79.51.44 / 335-62.49.274. tc La Casetta di Ca’ la Fonte, 200 m from the PASSO DI VIAMAGGIO:
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trail, descending along the road for Sansepolcro, on the left, room with 6-8 beds with bathroom and kitchen, pilgrim prices. Possibility of cooking dinner and breakfast and finding what is needed there, to be arranged with the owner. For selfmanaged groups: La casa grande, 30-35 beds, large kitchen and rooms for activities, prices to be agreed for groups of a minimum of 15 people. Ask for Alfredo, tel. 339-30.28.614 / 0575-73.61.52 (it is absolutely necessary to call in advance). tc
A short stage that can be walked on footpath or dirt track. You walk up the side of the hill that conceals the little jewel that is the hermitage of Cerbaiolo and, after a steep slope, the hermitage appears to you in all its solitary beauty. Passo di Viamaggio is near here. Pilgrims on horseback will follow the dirt road that is recommended in the event of rain; past Cerbaiolo, a comfortable variation will enable you to avoid Passo di Viamaggio and continue towards Montagna or Sansepolcro. This variation is also recommended for walkers who want to combine two stages.
This short, pleasant stage can be walked in two ways, on footpath or dirt road, with the latter being advisable in the event of rain or after a heavy rainfall. If you opt for the footpath, enter the town and from piazza delle Logge del Grano take the via delle antiche prigioni [2.0], pass the bridge and turn left, walking alongside the river; then take via A.M. Camaiti that ascends between the houses [2.1]; continue climbing and then turn right onto via del Gioiello. 45
2
pieve santo stefano ➜ passo di viamaggio
Continue up to a bend where, on an electricity pole, there are the red and white and the yellow signs; take the path [2.2] and climb up to the ruined houses. From there on follow path 2 that leads to Strazzano and which you leave when you reach a ruined house [2.3]: go around it to the right and continue along the left edge of a meadow; you re-enter the woods to then climb the steep side of a ditch up to a mule track that climbs straight up, between Poggio delle Galbane and the two hillocks towards Montalto. Go along it, descending briefly, to a fork in the road [2.4], from where you can see Cerbaiolo. Take care, at the junction that you come across soon afterwards: if you want to try to visit Cerbaiolo, go down to the right to the dirt road that leads to the hermitage and then turn left, climbing to reach it (this takes around 20 minutes). If, on the other hand, you want to continue towards Viamaggio, at the junction continue straight on following a cart track that takes you to a small clearing. Pay attention to the signs and, following them, turn left along an ascending path. When you reach a large meadow (WARNING!, due to deforestation work it is easy to confuse the meadow with clearings you come to before that), go right across it, staying high up, paying great attention to the signs, and then follow another cart track [2.5] that curves to the left as it rises. Once you have reached the pass, right in front of you is the Hotel Imperatore, which is now closed; to go to the accommodation Ca’ la Fonte, turn right onto the road for Sansepolcro and after 200 metres you will see it, high up, to the left of the road. For pilgrims on horseback, and in the event of rain for all, from the town take the provincial A-road that leads to Sansepolcro and turn left at the junction marked with the sign “Eremo di Cerbaiolo” [2.6]. The lane, which is initially asphalted, soon becomes dirt track: there are 5 km of comfortable uphill bends to the cross [2.7] that marks the beginning of the lane going up towards Cerbaiolo. To proceed to Viamaggio (for walkers), continue on the dirt road on which you have walked so far: above in the distance on your left you will see the HERMITAGE OF CERBAIOLO. The horse walks around comfortable curves. This was the ancient road towards Montefeltro, which Francis walked perhaps to go to Cerbaiolo, and certainly to La Verna. ALTERNATIVE FOR PILGRIMS ON HORSEBACK (3.5 KM) .
For those who wish to continue to Montagna or Sansepolcro without going to Viamaggio and combining two stages. Along the dirt road, after encountering the turning to the left for Cerbaiolo, continue for a further 2 km till you find a large gate on your right (which you must open and then close again) that takes you onto a farm road. This goes through some fields [2.8] and, gently climbing, takes you to a ruin, where the lane becomes a dirt track and goes up to the provincial A-road, then emerging beside a high voltage pylon (2 km from the gate). Turn onto the provincial A-road, turning right, and after 500 metres downhill, turn left onto the foresters’ cart track [2.9], which is recommended to all in the event of rain.
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pieve santo stefano ➜ passo di viamaggio
CERBAIOLO.
The solitary hermitage.
What to see Hermitage of Cerbaiolo Unfortunately it is now closed. The history of this hermitage and its changing fortunes is that of the oldest monastic settlement in the Upper Tiber Valley. It was in the year 706 that Tedaldo, a Lombard who converted to Christianity, the Lord of Tihpernum, today’s Città di Castello, who, at the wishes of his favourite daughter and to “pay for” his sins, “had a monastery built for the fathers and monks of Saint Benedict from the foundations” − as we read in the notarial deed of donation dated 17th March 723 − “in order for praise to God to rise day and night”. Indeed, this nobleman’s daughter was in fact impressed by the rocks where the hermitage stands today because, being so overhanging and traversed by cracks, they reminded her of the earthquake we are told occurred on the death of Christ. The hermitage was uninhabited when Francis, who in 1216 was passing through Pieve Santo Stefano heading for La Verna, was told about it by the people of the town as a suitable place for his brothers. The first Franciscan family established itself there in 1218, consolidating and enlarging the initial structure. It is known for sure that in 1230, the year before his death, Saint Anthony of Padua, Francis’ disciple, stayed for a period of retreat and to finish drafting the Lenten Sermons that the Pope had asked him to write. But it was in 1303 that the Benedictines transferred the property to the Franciscans. In late 1700 the friars left the convent definitively, moving to Pieve Santo Stefano, and Cerbaiolo became the parish site for the families of the farmers living in isolated houses. From then on, a priest who took care in particular of the shepherds departing for the transhumance lived there. The finding of a medal specially minted to celebrate the Holy Year of 1625 on a path through the woods shows that pilgrims heading for Rome passed through there. Then came destruction: 47
2
2
pieve santo stefano ➜ passo di viamaggio
Chiara of Cerbaiolo Chiara worked for years on the reconstruction of Cerbaiolo with tireless energy, also succeeding in obtaining a contribution from the State. She took great care to ensure that no interventions were made that were not consistent with the original Franciscan spirit. In May 2010 Chiara was laid to rest in the cemetery at the foot of the hermitage, beside the little chapel of the Madonna del Tramonto. Portrait of Chiara, by painter Stefano Camaiti.
on 28th August 1944 the retreating Germans mined and blew up the church, part of the convent and the farmers’ houses. But Cerbaiolo was destined to return to the Franciscans! Chiara, a sister of the small confraternity of Saint Elizabeth, discovered the ruins in the 1960s and decided to live there, dedicating the rest of her life to the reconstruction of this beautiful hermitage, which she managed to restore in just ten years. Around a small cloister with elegant proportions and appearance are the spacious, bright church and the convent composed of 17 cells, chapter room and refectory. Behind is a small courtyard hugging an enormous rock, seeming to want to wedge itself into the very walls. In the woods at the foot of the hermitage is the Chapel of Sant’Antonio, built in 1700 on the site where the saint’s hut stood. It is a strange little church with a hole at the foot of the altar where his rock “bed” would be found. It is even stranger that it was built at the top of a tower with its foundations much further down on the side of the hill. Thus a space was created under it that is now a small cell for those who want to live for a while in complete isolation. The little room is half cave dug into the rock and half tower, and the very bright window allows in a small slice of sky and no more.
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