T Magazine No. 5

T 19

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TERRONI MAGAZINE

Featured Region: Le who?

LE MARCHE!

How we make bread (and the surprising stor y behind the men who showed us how) CALIFORNIA CORRESPONDENTS! OUR LA COLLEAGUES—AND WORDSMITHS—SHARE THEIR SUNSHINE, EDITORIALLY SPEAKING Why we love URSA Terroni staff styles, Adelaide edition

Take some fennel seeds, add five chefs and boom: five recipes #thereyouhaveit Speaking of hashtags, don't forget to include #terroniregulars to your Terroni-themed pics for a chance to have it featured in our next issue

ISSUE Nº5 SUMMER / FALL 2013

CONTRIBUTORS Publisher Elena di Maria

Kat Kaplan Kat has been bartending at Terroni LA since Day One. She’s been writing and entertaining most of her days, specializing in comedy hip-hop (she’s a rapper!), dance, stand-up, sketch, stunts, music and live theatre. She also volunteers at the local animal shelter, shoots fun videos and studies Italian.

Her full list of credits and performance resume is stapled to the back of this magazine… just kidding.

Editor-in-Chief Jessica Allen Design Small Director of Photography Stephanie Palmer

David Alfano When he isn’t serving wine as part of the sommelier team at Terroni LA, David is acting in improv and sketch comedy theatre—and waiting for the next audition for “18-to-play-younger, ethnically ambiguous.” His interest in wine began when he started bartending to finance his degree in TV production. The best part of David's job is telling customers what they aren't going to drink. Whether you ask him for malbec, oaky chardonnay, or even a wine from Terroni's list you've previously tasted, he’ll make sure you try something new. Also, he's a bit older than he looks, so please don't make the joke of asking for his ID when he asks to see yours before serving you.

Copy Editor Michael Barclay Columnists Giovanna Alonzi Gianna Sami Contributors David Alfano Jessica Brooks Taylor Dickie Cindy Galvao Kat Kaplan Rick Kang Sandra Kang

Cindy Galvao The Terroni Queen veteran started her fashion blog, True North Style, in the fall of 2007 as an outlet for her love of fashion. These days her web life also includes a fashion and beauty YouTube channel, a personal "mood board" on Tumblr and daily doses of Instagram. When she's not at Terroni, or on the Internet, you can find her travelling around North America, blasting music way too loud, reading anything fantasy/supernatural and, naturally, shopping or as she calls it "research for the blog". You can find her online, everywhere.

Admin. Managers Patti Shaw Karina Watsone Many thanks to Davide della Bella Marco Bruno Nic Carlino Simon Gadke Carlo Lazzarino Albion Macleod Anna Mammoliti Cosimo Mammoliti Vince Mammoliti Fabio Moro Cosimo Pagliacolo Armando Palmieri Giuliano Pediconi Fabio Papa Francesca Sarti Max Stefanelli

Rick and Sandra Kang When he’s not tossing up a circus shot or procrastinating, Rick Kang is writing ads to pay for his jerk chicken and sneakers. When she’s not shopping for a genuine Gordon Gartrelle, Sandra Kang is designing ads and making fashion a li’l less ugly.

Jessica Brooks When she isn't in the kitchen baking up a storm, or working as an associate producer for the CBC’s In the Kitchen with Stefano Faita and Best Recipes Ever, Jessica is reading and tweeting about food. She received her formal journalism training at Humber College, from where she holds a postgraduate degree. She's also worked as an assistant producer for iCast News at the United Nations in New York, as an online producer at the Canadian Press in Toronto and, of course, as a Terroni server. Follow her on Twitter: @Brookscooks.

T Magazine Headquarters 720 Queen St. W. Toronto, M6J 1E8 For inquiries and comments please email: jessie@terroni.ca

Stephanie Palmer Passion and a belief in magic is what makes the world go round for this Toronto born and bred photographer who artfully balances her time between raising a young family, photo shoots and managing Terroni Adelaide. In this issue, one assignment in particular left its mark in her heart: spending an early Sunday morning photographing master breadmakers Guiliano and Fabio in the still-under-construction Terroni Bakery ended up feeling more like a gift than work.

Follow us on Twitter (@terroniTO) Facebook ( Terroni and Terroni: Los Angeles) Printed in Canada

THE TERRONI INDEX L A EDITION

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VIVA ANGELENO Date we opened: Nov. 12, 2007 § Date Los Angeline jaws began to drop when told we would not cut their pizza: Nov. 13, 2007 + Date LA Magazine, in their Best of LA issue, named us ‘Best Pizza with a Seat’: August 2008 ‡ Number of Italians working here: 6 × Of Canadians: 4 ~ Of actors: 13 ‡ Number of marathoner medals Matt the bartender has nailed to the bar wall: 9 + How many different colours the bartender Kim’s hair has been this year: 4 × How many times Maite, a server/bartender, has been on TV: 24 § Percentage of hot, male celebrities that come in here who server/bartender Danielle has already met and is pretty good friends with: 99.3 % ‡ How many people Terroni LA co-owner Max has kicked out of the restaurant: ≈30 × On a scale of 0-10, kitchen fluency in Span-talian: 9.93 ~ Percentage of employees that sport tattoos: 98.7% + Highest wave John the bartender has caught on the Malibu Coast: 15ft/4.57m ‡ Goals scored on the Terroni Foosball table by the bus staff: 43,689 § Combined weekly, how many customers ask if Dita and Andrea are single: ≈41 ~ How many Bruce Springsteen concerts manager Enrico has attended in his lifetime: 17 × Number of '80s songs on our playlist: ∞ ~ Number of World Series the LA Dodgers have won: 5 + Number of Major League Soccer Championships LA Galaxy has won: 4 Number of awards Terroni LA’s Wine Program has won: 4

Compiled by Kat Kaplan

Year that David Beckham joined the Galaxy: 2007 § Percentage of the staff who wouldn’t kick David Beckham out of bed: 100% × Number of medicinal marijuana dispensaries registered in LA: 762 ‡ Estimated 2011 population of LA County (largest in the US): 9,889,056 ~ Estimated 2011 population of Greater Toronto Area: 5,583,064 × Percentage of Canada’s entire population the GTA makes up: 18.1% × Number of cars registered in LA County: >5,000,000 + Days spent in traffic delay per year for the average commuter driving in LA and neighbouring Orange County: 3.88 ~ Number of avid bicyclists, motorcyclists, scooter-ists working at Terroni on Beverly: 11 § Average inches of rain per year in LA: 18 inches/457 mm × In Toronto (including snow): 31 inches/793 mm ‡ Number of Starbucks “coffee” shops within a four-mile radius of our restaurant: ≈50 ~ How many “skinny lattes” have been ordered here: >560 + How many we’ve served: 0 ~ How far Terroni is from the ocean: 11.4mi/18.3km ‡ From the Hollywood Sign: 7mi/11.3km § From the Mexican border: 142mi/229km ~ From the Price Is Right stage: 2 blocks × Year that Terroni Downtown LA will open: 2013 + How long it will take to drive to Vegas from the front door of the new restaurant: 4hr 15min

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH, L A EDITION: BOBBY MOYNAHAN

I'M A HYPER-VIRGO WITH MILD OCD, AND THAT PROBABLY HEIGHTENS MY EFFICIENCY

interviewed by David Alfano

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

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FADE IN: EXT. TERRONI LA - DAY

DAVID It was a solid show. We had a great house... but I'll ask the questions today. When did A restaurant stands on a street corner you get home? across from Pan Pacific Park in the heart of Beverly Blvd.'s restaurant row, its patio BOBBY awnings dotted with holiday lights. Ter- I didn't. roni LA stands as a bastion of authentic, unapologetic Italy within a city known for CUT TO: its fusion and sometimes-bastardization of culture.

How did you get your start at Terroni LA? DISSOLVE TO: INT. TERRONI LA - BAR – DAY BOBBY MOYNAHAN, Terroni LA server and rock band frontman, mid 30s?, actual age undisclosed, strides in sporting five o'clock shadow at 11 a.m., his straight dark hair halfway to his shoulders. He's wearing faded fitted jeans, a red-hooded sweatshirt, dark sunglasses and an infectious smile.

It was over five years ago, before the place had opened. I worked for Shereen at another restaurant, and she was looking for waiters for a new location. She told me to talk to a guy named Max, and that they "needed a rock star." I walked into Terroni LA, the place still under construction, and found Max talking to Fabio, the chef at that time. I was wearing ripped jeans and a paint-splattered shirt. After Max showed me around he asked me why he should hire me. I told him that he wasn't going to find a better waiter in Los Angeles.

DAVID ALFANO, part of a team of Terroni LA sommeliers, late 20s yet looks 16, sits next to a leg lamp by the window. Also an actor/comedian, he's an interviewer for the Did you really believe that? day.

I knew I was a hard worker, maybe unorthoDAVID dox— Hey, brother. You look haggard.

You're avoiding the question.

BOBBY We played a sick show at the Troubador last Well yeah, I always put 100 per cent into evnight and the after-party never ended. How erything I do, whether it's my art or a part of was your improv show? my life that facilitates it.

② “He's always been a great friend and sometimes thinks too much for others before himself. He's the type of guy that will be impulsively jumping up on a streetlight pole to attach a sticker for his band, yet have a buddha book hanging out of his back pocket.

He also has a huge collection of shoes.”

– Enrico Bortoluzzi, manager

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① "Bobby is a total character. He's really quick and witty, a little crazy, and hilarious. He sometimes makes me laugh to tears.

People love him because he is so 'out there,' but also because of his positive outlook on life. I can't imagine Terroni LA without him.”

– Kayleen Arazm, manager

③ “He's a good server, but basically he's f—ked up.”

– Antonio Giordano

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

What would Max say about that claim to- many years, and it does give me a lot of day? inspiration. Any unrest that I feel here is creatively healthy.

I reminded him about that story recently.

He just smiled. From a guy who doesn't What about last night's bender? bulls—t, I'll take that as positive feedback.

After five years I still love this place. I love Sometimes…not so healthy. that everyone here has a supreme passion for what they do, and they carry that over Dealing with the entertainment industry into their work here. is such a common part of our job in LA. How do you feel about serving celebrities?

What, for the record, do you do when not working here?

I don't own a TV, and half the time if I vaguely identify someone as a celebrity, I I'm a musician and singer/songwriter in couldn't give a s—t... and I mean that in the an LA-based band called Ballerina Black. I best way. I treat everyone the same—regardstarted the band and basically book all of less of their public popularity. our gigs and rehearsals. Being in a band with these guys is like organizing a daily Really? What about that time I introduced kickball game full of lunatics, knowing full you to my friend Maynard Keenan, winewell that you're crazier than all of them put maker and lead singer of the band Tool? together. But I can't—and I wouldn't—choose any other outlet for what goes on inside me. Yeah, I nearly pissed my pants. The man's an inspiration. I never said I didn't own a What "goes on inside you?" Indigestion? radio.

Heartburn?

You've put Ballerina Black graffiti posters Ha. No. In life it may seem like you're dealt all over this city. Isn't there even one on a bad hand, but for me that has been fertile this roof? ground for art, in my case that's the music I write.

They're called snipes, and I actually did have permission for that one. Cosi gave me You may be employee of the month, but the green light and it's been there since. have you ever almost been fired or thought of quitting?

Why am I spending my time interviewing you today? What makes you a good We had a manager a long time ago, who for server? some reason really liked to test me. During a staff meeting she made a new rule that I'm a hyper-Virgo with mild OCD, and that anyone with long hair would have to wear probably heightens my efficiency. I also try it up in a ponytail while working. I get it, it's to be as real with every customer as I can. a restaurant and there are standards. After I think it's refreshing to have someone to I walked out of the meeting, Shereen fol- come to your table that gives you an injeclowed me and asked what was wrong. I said, tion of honesty. Creating a personal rela"I'm bummed. I guess I have to quit. I'm not tionship with customers is something that exactly comfortable with the whole ponytail keeps them coming back, and that's what all situation." of us try to do here.

She laughed and said, "Honey, you can wear your hair however you want. We love Any final thoughts about Terroni before I you for you; that's why we hired you." Co- seal your fate? simo and Max were laughing about it later and I basically laid it out for them like this: I like that there are no compromises here.

"A pony tail? You might as well give me a Sometimes in life you don't have to. There's pair of roller skates and some daisy dukes a lot of soul and integrity that goes into and ask me to wait tables." That's one of the what they do here, and what is presented to reasons I love this place; love and respect. people. Even though Terroni is one of the Max and everyone allow me to be me. most popular, talked-about restaurants in LA, I feel like it's a black sheep in a sense.

What do you think of LA? I have always identified with that. In musical terms, we're on the same frequency. It's It's kind of a tumultuous relationship. I perfect harmony. do feel at home in LA after being here so

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TRE RAG AZZI

WHEN VINCE, ALEX AND CURLY AREN’T EATING AT TERRONI, YOU CAN FIND THEM AT SELECT RESTAURANTS AROUND THE CITY. JESSICA BROOKS REPORTS ON THEIR LATEST FAVOURITE SPOT.

What they’re eating now:

<<Curly>> And the kale. That's JJ's [Cale’s] favourite vegetable. [Moans from the other ragazzi]

Ursa (924 Queen St. W) run by Jacob and Lucas Sharkey-Pearce, two Terroni alumni.

Best Dessert: <<Vince>> It's unique and there's no one else doing stuff like this in the city. And you leave feeling like you ate something healthy. The funny thing is, some of the best dishes here don't have any meat in them. And coming from us, where everything we eat is protein, protein, protein, that says something.

Best Appetizer:

Single origin chocolate chantilly, pear, ginger, hazelnut. <<Alex>> Chocolate is so cliché [after one bite]. Okay, I'm not a chocolate dessert guy but this is really good.

Best Digestivo:

House-made limoncello, made with white rum and served in mixed-matched vintage glasses sourced on Hen & Maitake: boudin blanc, cockscomb, black truffle, trips to vintage and antique shops. celery root. <<Vince>> These glasses are fantastic. <<Curly>> The house-made tofu is good too. [Pointing to Alex] He had two servings. He's doing yoga tomor- Best Server: row, that's why.

Emiko Sekiguchi [also the only server on that night].

Best Main: <<Vince>> She was trained at Terroni.

Georgian Bay whitefish with confit hen, salsify potato, cedar, pickled juniper.

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by Jessica Allen

photos by Stephanie Palmer

HOW WE MAKE BREAD

AND THE SURPRISING STORY BEHIND THE MEN WHO MAKE IT

“Would you like to meet the yeast?” This is the first thing master baker Giuliano Pediconi asks when I arrive at the soon-to-open Terroni bakery, Sud Forno, on a chilly December morning. The 46-year-old is in Toronto for two weeks from Le Marche, Italy, to experiment with recipes and help train staff before the new bakery, just a few doors east of the Terroni on Queen St. W., opens this spring. “The history of yeast is made by the person who works with it,” he explains.

“It doesn’t matter if it’s 100 years old because it changes every day. What matters is the person who works with it. It’s a relationship.”

The yeast lives in a box that looks like an old-timey safe. He pulls the nozzle on the front clockwise and out pours a greyish bubbling sludge that best resembles banana pudding. It’s an oozy mess that looks primordial, probably because it is.

With him is Fabio Papa, 36, who arrived in Toronto in early November from a small town in Campania called Casale di Carinola.

He will stay on to run the bakery. Before I arrived, the pair prepared dough for bread they call pane Canadese: it’s made from Red Fife flour, an old Canadian wheat variety whose origins stretch back over 170 years. They work in unison—Giuliano breaking chunks off while Fabio rolls them into

27 small balls between his hands and then drops them lightly on the cool stainless steel to help redistribute the yeast, which is alive, after all. After each ball drops, Fabio pats it a few more times for good measure.

“It is important to give the first shape of the bread,” explains Giuliano, “because it will be the final shape.” Then they place the formed balls into little baskets that look like straw bassinets lined with linen that are stacked onto a rolling shelf, which eventually gets wheeled into a temperature-controlled room where the bread will rise a little more.

The two have been experimenting with over 15 types of bread in the spotless whitetiled bakery. The round and crusty Pugliese bread, or pane di Altamura, is the size of two heads and can last up to 10 days. They’ve also made a fennel sourdough—that may be the best singular bite of bread I’ve ever tasted—and an oat bread with raisins that Giuliano says is nice for breakfast. How many they end up making daily will depend on Terroni owner Cosimo Mammoliti. “But hopefully it will be as many as possible,” says Giuliano.

Giuliano was a panettiere for 23 years in Italy, baking bread every single night. He first learned the trade with the help of books and took plenty of courses to study the art, all the while picking up what he could

from master bakers with whom he worked.

Recently, he gave up baking to consult for a Italian flour company. He also consulted for and taught at San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation centre in Emilia-Romagna that has taken in over 18,000 addicts since 1978. The one-of-a-kind facility not only offers residents a home, health care and legal assistance, but also job skills, from furniture design and viticulture to the art of baking bread.

That’s where he met Fabio in 2006, when the former addict was 29. “Working with these people is a kind of emotion you cannot describe,” says Giuliano. “These people have such weaknesses but they are so strong. It’s beautiful because with these kids you get a relationship where there is an exchange of emotions. And there is a loyalty that develops that you don’t usually find in the outside world. A true relationship.”

As Giuliano, whose kind face is as soft as Fabio’s is hard and angular, turns out baguette-looking loaves from baskets onto long canvas planks, Fabio inserts the planks into the five-tiered oven, which can cook up to 100 kilos of bread at a time. When the planks are pulled back out, the loaves are perfectly placed and ready to bake—like an effortless magic trick.

When Fabio first met Giuliano at San

Patrignano, he didn’t like him: “Because I didn’t care about anyone then and here was Giuliano trying to instill passion in me,” he says as he tosses just-baked loaves onto a cold marble counter. He pauses, and then wipes his eyes with the corner of his white chef’s jacket’s sleeves. “But in the end, he won.”

Giuliano puts his arm around Fabio for a brief moment and then continues to fuss with a dough made from a slightly burnt wheat from Puglia called grano arso. “By feeling the dough you can tell what it needs or what’s wrong with it,” he explains. “This is the beauty of this job: you have to use your senses to understand what needs to be done. And then, without looking at Fabio, who is studding the dough with bits of candied orange peel and anchovy, he says, “We both won.”

Tomorrow they are going to experiment with stirata romana (stretched pizza.)

They’ll prepare classic combinations, like rosemary and potato, and tomato and mozzarella. Other variations may be topped with herbs or stuffed with prosciutto. Fabio has no interest in going back to San Patrignano to teach, like Giuliano did. “I want to be put back in the outside world; to make my way on my own,” he says. “That’s what Giuliano taught me.”

TAS TIN G LE MARC HE

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photos by Stephanie Palmer

CHEF GIOVANNA ALONZI WRANGLES FIVE OF HER COLLEAGUES TO COME UP WITH RECIPES USING A CLASSIC LE MARCHE INGREDIENT: FENNEL SEEDS

TAS TIN G LE MARC HE

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pride myself on always having detailed, distinct memories of everything I have ever tasted. I rely on my palate and I can always place a dish at a specific time and place.

Things are different when it comes to the foods of Le Marche. I can't place a single morsel without confusing it with memories of the foods from its neighbouring regions.

Le Marche, being at the heart of the Italian peninsula, precisely where the north meets the south, borders six other regions and is dominated by the Apennines and 173 km of Adriatic coastline. Its traditional fare is a conglomeration of dishes from surrounding regions; its food is a mosaic of its geography. Brodetto di pesce, originating in Abbruzzo, finds variations all along Le Marche's coast. Cappelletti, truffled tagliatelle, hearty legumes, grain and mushroom soups originally native to Emilia Romagna, Umbria and Tuscany can be found throughout Le Marche as local specialties.

Here, these dishes are remade, perfected

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and turned marchigiani; hence food from Le Marche has been defined as the confederacy of Italian foods. Vincis Grassi is the most famous example (see page 23 for its origin story.) It is very similar to lasagna Bolognese. Of course, you won't find one singular version in all of Le Marche. From province to province it may feature the typical ragu, ham or chicken livers, mushrooms or truffle. Vincis Grassi offers clues into understanding that truffle production in Le Marche represents a third of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production or that hams, chickens and mushrooms are all part of the peasant culture of the region. Food from Le Marche has always been profoundly committed to being deeply local.

Pecorino di Fossa is the only thing that offered me a clear memory of travelling through Le Marche. I remembered visiting what seemed a medieval ghost town, perched on a steep mountain. We encountered two people our entire visit there. The first was an old lady that lived at the top of

â&#x2018; When many of the small craft workshops scattered throughout rural Le Marche began to modernize in the 1980s, they began to produce everything from footwear and leather goods to designer kitchen wares on an industrial scale. Today, you can still find small family-run factories with big multinationals, like Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Prada and Guzzini.

(And yes, there are factory outlets aplenty.)

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② Le Marche is separated from the rest of central Italy by the Apennines. They make a killer brodetto, a rich fish stew made with seafood from the Adriatic. Both black and white truffles, wild mushrooms and fennel make their way into regional dishes, too. And some say their porchetta is the best in all of central Italy.

a hill on top of the mountain. She seemed absolutely ancient and was still able to walk home to the top carrying a heavy pail of water, with the strength of a goat. She declined our offer to help her but did give us directions on where to get the prized and arguably best of Italian cheeses. She directed us to the second person, a farmer who sold us an incredible piece of pecorino di Fossa for only 30 euros! The pecorino had been aged in century-old "fosse," caves deep in the ground traditionally used for aging the cheese. It was very sharp, salty, grassy and sulfuric and reminded me of tuff—omnipresent in all of the caves. We used it in pretty much everything we made until it was all gone. It is also an ingredient in a couple of the recipes we feature in this issue. I strongly recommend using it as it can make any dish seem authentically from the Marche.

All of Le Marche’s different traditions and characteristics are weaved into its food and bound by a commitment to simplicity

TAS TIN G LE MARC HE

and honesty. In this issue they are bound by one of the most popular ingredients of the area: Fennel. It grows bountifully throughout the region and our chefs have used it exceptionally. Olive Ascolane are one of the typical stuffed foods of the peasantry, combining olives with meats from three different animals, pecorino di Fossa, lemon zest and fennel seeds. Savoury and fried, they are the perfect bite to have with a glass of verdicchio this summer. The zuppa Marchigiana, a rich stew of chickpeas, porcini and dandelion, is also finished with fennel and pecorino di Fossa. The rabbit is brightened with guanciale and flavoured with perfumed herbs, including fennel. Scroccafusi are a traditional dish popular during carnival. It is a fried dumpling dipped in honey and Sambuca with a hard texture that captures all of the rusticity of Le Marche. Last but not least we have a sweetly sensual roasted pineapple carpaccio that will bring all of the warmth of a summer in the Marche to your Canadian kitchen. Enjoy.

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RECIPES Olive all'Ascolana

by Marco Bruno Ingredients: 400 g lean ground beef 150 g lean ground pork 50 g lean ground chicken 500 g green Ascolane olives 80 g of mire poix (diced onion, carrot and celery in equal amounts) 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 100 g grated pecorino 50 g grated parmigiano flour 4 eggs bread crumbs white wine frying oil 8g crushed fennel seeds 10g lemon zest

Crescia, a traditional savoury bread

by Armando Palmieri Method: Remove the pits from the olives by making a spiral incision through the olives. Keep the olives in salted water for a couple of hours. Sauté the mire poix in olive oil. Add all of the meats and brown.

Deglaze with white wine.

Adjust the salt. Put the meat mixture, grated parmigiano and pecorino, 1 egg, fennel seeds, lemon zest, pepper in a food processor and blitz.

Take a bit of this mixture and form a meatball in your hands. Wrap the olive spiral around the little meatball (the olive should be 40 per cent of the total weight).

Dust the olives in flour, toss in the remaining eggs (lightly beaten) and then in the bread crumbs. Deep-fry the olives and serve.

Ingredients: 1 kg flour 3 eggs 80 ml olive oil 30 g dry yeast dissolved in 1/2 cup water 150 g grated pecorino 150 g grated parmigiano 20 g salt Pinch of nutmeg and pepper

Method: Grease and line a tall round baking pan, about 9 inches in both diameter and height. Mix the flour, eggs, yeast, grated pecorino, parmigiano, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add the oil, and then knead the dough for 10 minutes. Place the dough in the baking dish and allow it to rise, nearly doubling in size. Bake at 360F for 17 to 20 minutes.

Then, lower the temperature to 320F and bake for another 17 to 20 minutes.

Cover the bread with foil if it gains too much colour too quickly while baking.

Method: Soak the chickpeas in water for 24 hours before preparing the dish. Mince the peeled and chopped onion, prosciutto, guanciale and parsley leaves in a food processor. Sauté this mixture in olive oil in a large stock pot. Add the drained chickpeas and sauté for five additional minutes. Add 2.5 L of water and bring to a boil. Then add the

tomato purée and porcini mushrooms, lower to a simmer, cover and cook for three hours. Adjust the salt, parsley and desired amount of chili. Before serving, sauté the dandelion with garlic, add to the soup and bring everything to a slow boil. Toast the bread and place a slice in the serving bowl, ladle soup onto it and finish with pecorino shavings.

Minestra di Ceci alla Marchigiana

by Fabio Moro Ingredients: 200 g dry chickpeas 1 large cooking onion 100 ml tomato purée 100 g dandelion greens (blanched) 50 g prosciutto 50 g guanciale 3 tbsp olive oil 10 parsley leaves 2 tbsp of chopped parsley 6 Italian bread slices

Coniglio in Porchetta

by Davide Della Bella Ingredients: 1 deboned rabbit 80 g minced thyme 80 g minced rosemary 80 g minced dill 2 cloves garlic, minced 15 g minced fennel seeds 50 g minced guanciale Salt, black pepper, coarsely ground

1 garlic clove 15 g toasted, minced fennel seeds Pecorino di Fossa shavings (Pecorino Romano may be substituted) Chili 100 g chopped porcini mushrooms, sautéed with garlic, parsley and wine (optional)

Fennel roasted-pineapple carpaccio

by Carlo Lazzarino Method: Place the rabbit on its back and open bilaterally on a cutting board. Season the entire surface in the following order: salt, pepper (a generous amount, almost to completely cover the entire surface), guanciale, garlic, fennel seeds, remaining herbs. Roll the rabbit lengthwise and tie it tightly with butcher string. Roast on a grill at 480F for 10 minutes, and then lower the temperature to 280F until the roast reaches 153F at its heart.

Allow the roast to cool for five to 10 minutes, remove the butcher string, slice to about 1 cm and serve.

Ingredients: 1 pineapple 100 g water 400 g sugar 400 g water 40 g fennel seed – toasted 1 tsp vanilla extract

Method: Peel and core the pineapple and divide into quarters.

Meanwhile, bring 100 g water and all the sugar to a boil. Continue to cook until it becomes a caramel. Add the fennel seed and stir for 30 seconds. Deglaze with the 400 g water, then add the vanilla and submerge the pineapple in the caramel solution. Refrigerate overnight. The next day empty all of the ingredients into a roasting dish, cover with foil and roast in a 400F oven for 10 – 14 minutes, until pineapple is soft. Let cool, and then slice as thinly as possible just before plating.

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HE SAID, SHE SAID

ished in 2012 because that’s when we finished—in the summer, when the patio opened. We probably started in 2009, when I was still doing the lease, then we did the work, Centrale opened in April of 2011, then Price opened up December 2011 but the patio opened up August 2012 and so that was just amazing because it was a three-year project. So I guess for me that was pretty big.

HE, COSIMO MAMMOLITI, IS THE BOSS MAN, THE HEAD HONCHO, THE BRAINS BEHIND TERRONI. 3. What’s your favourite meal that Elena cooks at home?

She makes a wicked plate of prosciutto and mozzarella.

[They both laugh.] No, my favourite thing that Elena makes for me is when I’m sick; she makes a stracciatella that just blows me away. She taught me that one. And I’m going to have say her carbonara, too. We have battles over it because she taught me how to make it really good, but I kind of perfected it. But her carbonara kicks ass. And her zucchini trifolate (just sautéed zucchini and garlic with parsley.) Actually, there are about four or five things: She also makes this fontina soufflé and it’s world famous. And her flourless chocolate cake, it’s just unbelievable. So essentially, a perfect dinner would be stracciatella, carbonara, the zucchini, the soufflé—and I don’t like to mention chicken, I don’t cook it: I don’t think it’s worthy (that’s what the Colonel Sanders is for, right?)— but she makes a mean roast chicken, so that would be the main. And then flourless chocolate cake for dessert.

1. What was the best meal you had in the last week?

And who cooked it?

I did a cleanse last week so that’s no good. But this week, I’m going to be really bad and say Monday night when I had dinner at Bar Centrale. Davide made this spaghetti with cozze (mussels) that was really good. That was the best meal this week. [Pause] But then I ate at La Bettola and it was really good too. This is tough. It was a Cumbrae’s pork chop and a duck breast. So I gotta say, if you really want to know my best meal this week it would be the spaghetti with cozze from Davide as my best primo and the pork chop and duck breast from Bettola as my best secondo. It was f—king phenomenal.

4. What are you most looking forward to in 2013?

Oh, lots! For starters, I’m super excited about the bakery. And now we even have this kick-ass pastry chef, Armando Palmieri, so I’m very excited about that. It’s going to be beautiful. And LA is going to be beautiful— hopefully we’ll open up our second location there at the end of May. I want to be there for the opening. All I care about is that the food is coming out, and coming out good. I want to be on the line, at the pass, and I’ll make sure that all the plates are coming out the way that they should be. I have to say, the more openings we do— I’m not going to say it gets easier—but I expect all the f—k-ups that are going to happen and I’m ready for them. The food is the most important, and the service.

And that there’s a flow to the restaurant and that flow gets off on the right foot.

5. What are you least looking forward to?

It hit me today actually. The fact that by the end of November 2013, our little girl, Simona, has to put her applications in to universities and it’s not going to be anywhere in Toronto. That’s a fact. She’s made that very clear, which is good. I’m happy. But today, we had school interviews and her teacher said that we’d be talking about the transition and it was like, she will have this fig2. What was your most important professional ac- ured out by November 2013. That’s going to be tough. complishment of 2012?

Well, am I allowed to include something from the end 6. You have four kids. Which one is your favourite? of 2011 and the beginning of 2012? Because it was the Oh get out of here! Well Matteo is my favourite son, Siyear that I finished Terroni Price and that took a lot. mona is my favourite oldest daughter, Sofia is my favouWait, to be honest with you, I can say it was all fin- rite middle daughter and Olivia is my favourite youngest.

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HE SAID, SHE SAID

1. What was the best meal you had in the last week?

And who cooked it?

Well, Cosi went out every night and I stayed home, but that’s not normal—it’s because Max was here. Last week I made this pasta al forno for the kids that was so good. It was made with these big paccheri stuffed with ragù and then I made béchamel and then layered it all

SHE, ELENA DI MARIA, IS THE PUBLISHER, THE MUSCLE AND THE BRAWN BEHIND THIS MAGAZINE. AND THEY ARE MARRIED. vtogether. It’s a very homemade, home-style sort of meal. And I made an apple cake too and the morning after it was all gone.

2. What would you say was your most important professional accomplishment of 2012?

For sure it was getting involved with Free the Children [an organization dedicated toward eliminating the exploitation of children around the world, by encouraging children to volunteer and create programs] and going to Africa as a family. We had the most amazing experience: it was all so fulfilling and beautiful. And it was an eye-opener. It had a huge impact on us as individuals and as a family. It really brought us closer together and gave us a different perspective on the way you look at things, so much so that when we came back, we wanted to stay involved. That’s why we we want to try and work with them as a company—to partner up somehow, in some way. So Terroni can give back to a good social cause.

3. What’s your favourite meal that Cosi cooks at home?

Cosimo doesn’t cook all the time but when he does go into the kitchen he puts so much love and passion into it that he always pulls out something good. It doesn’t matter if you have a full fridge or an empty fridge, something good results. But I do have a few favourite things: one is a spelt risotto and he prepares it like a give advice to people! [laughing]. So that’s what I’m risotto alla trevigiana, which is with radicchio and focused on…more on the human side of things and less scamorza. It’s so good, crunchy and chewy. The other involved with business. thing is linguine with clams.

5. What are you least looking forward to?

4. What are you most looking forward to in 2013?

Many times, because of the restaurants and our big For me, and this is something that’s always on my family, our lives get so stressful and hectic. So I want to mind, it’s just trying to be better: a better role model step away from that level of stress that makes you walk for my kids, and for my husband as well. I always hope away from enjoying life. So I’m really hoping that won’t that through my actions and through my way of being happen in 2013. To stay in peace and harmony, for a that they are inspired to be decent people, considerate little while at least. people, giving people, and to be concerned and to contribute back. I like to be a great friend to them—not to 6. You have four kids. Which one is your favourite? be best buddies, mind you—but to be able to give them What he said. meaningful advice and guide them through their life decisions because now they are becoming teenagers. by Jessica Allen So for me, this is my main mission these days: to show them, by example, how to be decent. This is something photos by Stephanie Palmer that I do with my kids, but I also try to do with my husband and with my friends. [Pause] Basically, I like to

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TAS TIN G LE MARC HE

TERRONI WINE PRO GIANNA SAMI LIGHTS UP LE MARCHE

① Le Marche’s name is derived from the Frankish word for “frontier,” on account of the region being the boundary between papal and imperial lands.

② The city of Urbino in Le Marche is the birthplace of two Italian Renaissance giants: Raphael and Bramante, not to mention home to one of the greatest patrons of the arts, Federico da Montelfeltro, Duke of Urbino.

Duke Federico left such a mark on his hometown—his palace in the centrepiece of the old city centre is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—that the townsfolk still hold a yearly festival in his honor.

③ Attention opera lovers: the city of Pesaro in Le Marche is the home of Gioachino Rossini, of The Barber of Seville fame. If football is more your speed, then get this: Massimo Ambrosini, the 35-year-old midfielder and captain of AC Milan, is also a native of Pesaro.

Good

old Le Marche…you know, that wine region you’ve never heard of? Perhaps juicy, life-altering, ode-worthy porchetta (stuffed suckling pig) might ring a bell, but the still-slightly-esoteric oenological offerings of this unassuming area smack dab in the middle of Italy’s Adriatic coastline remain to be discovered by the masses. The region serves as a bridge between the north and the south, melding together the influences from either end of the country to produce a freakishly good hybrid. History’s biggest conquerors knew the value of this sweet spot and the area passed through the hands of everyone from the Greeks to the papacy to Napoleon himself. These days Le Marche stays out of the limelight and focuses its energy on producing quality wine with a few key grape varietals.

Verdicchio is undoubtedly the most sought after white wine from the area. This mineral-driven, stainless-steel-fermented white is punctuated with notes of sour apple, fresh pine needles, and almond skin, creating a quality that is unmistakably verdicchio. The two DOCs that produce this white can essentially be classified as either Gossip Girl character Blair Waldorf or a Serena van der Woodsen: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC, located at a lower altitude near the sea, makes the plusher, loose-knit version, while the mountainous area of Verdicchio di Metalica DOC is more austere with firmer structure. Either one would be a great choice for a summer BBQ, just depends on which Gossip Girl you like best.

Though more of a rarity, Banchello del Metauro IGT, produced with a grape of the same name, also deserves some recognition. Hailing from the northern coast, this refreshing and aromatic wine has notes of peach, herbs and melon, rounding off with a zesty finish. In fact, this ancient wine is so good that it helped the Romans defeat

Hannibal’s brother, Hasdrubal, in 207 B.C.: his army got so drunk off the local refreshment that they were all either cut down in battle or where they happened to pass out.

The reds of the area are focused on the sangiovese and montepulciano grapes, with the latter taking centre stage. Rosso Piceno DOC is a blend of the two and makes a lovely medium-bodied wine driven by juicy red fruit, likened to a softer version of Chianti. The dry maritime climate and limestone soils of Le Marche prove to be the perfect breeding ground for montepulciano, as seen with the two most sought-after production areas: Rosso Cònero DOC and the Cònero DOCG. Both are made primarily of the montepulciano grape and with their tannins and firmer structure they even rival montelpulcianos coming out of Abruzzo. Grab a fireplace and a bearskin rug and you’re golden.

So, now you know, and there are no excuses for not drinking these little gems.

Get your Le Marche fix at Terroni from producer Claudio Morelli. His Bianchello del Metauro and Suffragium (a red wine made from the aleatico grape) will knock your socks off. Just don’t do like Hasdrubal and company did, okay? Okay.

La Vigna Terrazze Bianchello 2011 This lively white comes alive on the nose with notes of candied pineapple, Meyer lemon, and chalky minerality. On the palate, the Bianchello is bright and refreshing, with ample citrus and a creamy lingering finish. Drink Now! Suffragium Marche IGT Rosso 2008 This dark and brooding red is full of blueberry and plum notes, with hints of nutmeg and dried herbs. In the mouth this medium-bodied wine sings with its smooth, fine-grained tannins and its plush lingering finish. Drink now!

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TERRONI-S T YLE

CLASSIC LOOKS, FROM A PRETTY DARN CLASSY CREW Photographs by Stephanie Palmer ①

Edited by Cindy Galvao ①

③

②

④

① Coloured

④

denim, a little unexpected: the perfect way to stand out from the masses. ② Borrowed from the boys, a button-down shirt dresses up jeans in an instant. And keeping it fitted or in a soft fabric helps it from actually looking like you took it from a guy. ③ The skater dress is an outfit in itself. But edge it up with ankle boots and a red lip. ④ When in doubt, side braids and side parts. Much more unexpected than a ponytail and, dare I say it, sexier?

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TERRONI-S T YLE

THE ADELAIDE STAFF IN ALL THEIR SARTORIAL SPLENDOUR ⑤

⑥

⑦

⑧

⑧

⑤ Blazers

don't have to be conservative. Choose a pattern or unexpected colour, roll the sleeves, add a fun pocket square and make it fresh. ⑥ Mix and match your patterned pieces: the bolder and brighter, the better ⑦ Boys in stripes. Is this Adelaide's answer to Queen St.'s plaid? ⑧ Cuff your jeans, show off those boots, socks or ankles. It's one of those things that takes an outfit from average to interesting. ⑧

PAS T TENSE / FUTURE TENSE

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WHERE WE’RE GOING (AND WHERE WE’VE BEEN) September ① Terroni participated in the all-night post-modern art-a-palooza Nuit Blanche!

Their installation: pasta making, of course— the most appetite-curbing of all the arts.

Affleck’s Oscar heavyweight Argo hosted their premiere party during TIFF. A-list guests, like Jennifer Garner, John Goodman and Alan Arkin, revelled into the wee hours of the morning. Bryan Cranston showed everyone how a suit is meant to be worn, and John Krasinski adorably piggybacked wife Emily Blunt to their car afterwards. Ben and Matt (Damon) won cutest BFF award, obviously. ② Ben

October ③ LA Weekly honoured Max Stefanelli of Terroni Los Angeles with the award for Best Wine Program 2012, praising Stefanelli for his celebration of Italian wines, and his devotion to standouts from other nations. × Two much-loved Toronto restaurants run by Terroni alumni, Ursa and Grand Electric, make enRoute’s best new restaurant list

November × Writer Meagan Albrechtson, who also serves at Queen Street, launched her very own online magazine, Lolita, which is “aimed as an outlet for like-minded women to share, vent, learn, and be entertained.”

With everything from essays on modern quarter-life crises and how-tos on how to butcher a chicken, we say, Brava! And mission accomplished. × Queen Street server Mark Venturi directed a hauntingly beautiful music video that looks like a moving Caravaggio painting set in and around Toronto’s west end for Canadian composer and musician Tim Isherwood. ④ Carvinea

(the Pugliese winery owned by the publisher’s father) won Tre Bicchieri (three glasses, the highest nod) from Gambero Rosso for their 2008 Frauma and 2009 Sierma. × Osteria Ciceri e Tria gets a nod in the CNN Insider Guide: Best of Toronto, where it is described as “Best of Toronto done right, comfort food drenched in olive oil best accompanied by a glass or two of wine.” It shared the honour with Black Hoof, Canoe and Acadia. ⑤ Canadian fashion legend Jeanne Beker

knows good style and it shows. When she spotted our striking Price Street hostess Igho Diana Itebu and was “bowled over by her hairstyle,” she profiled the fascinating Nigerian native in her Toronto Star column. × James Taylor—the Terroni Price St. mixologist, not the singer—was asked by The Globe and Mail to come up with a holiday cocktail and they made a video out of it.

The result? Taylor twisted up the classic Snowball.

23

PAS T TENSE / FUTURE TENSE March × Genna Gingerich, one of our favourite cooks, showcases her cakes, cookies, and other delights at 101 Markets in Toronto’s Junction every third Sunday of the month.

Look for her “Club Sandwich” booth among the vintage and antique vendors.

April × VinItaly, the annual international celebration of Italian wines, will take place in Verona from April 7-10 and we’ve got an ace Terroni team of five assembled on the ground. Their mission? To track down new and interesting wines that will eventually end up on our wine lists back home and at our wine agency, Cavinona.

December × After six years of serving at Terroni, Hana Lukac retired her apron and set off on a Balinese adventure in April, 2011. Since then, she’s pursued yoga full-time, teaching in Belgrade, Oslo, Bournemouth and Denpasar. In December 2012 she returned to the Queen St. W. neighbourhood and opened Mula Yoga—a spacious and bright studio where practitioners and the curious can hear underground music and explore new positions. In Sanskrit Mula denotes base, source and foundation—and the studio has become something of a foundation in the neighbourhood since it opened its doors.

Visit Mulayoga.ca to find out more.

January ⑥ Terroni got a shout-out in Where Chefs Eat, a beautiful 633-page Phaidon book that details restaurants around the world frequented by world-famous chefs. Claudio Aprile of Colborne Lane’s go-to comfort meal? Insalata Nizzarda and Pizza Marinara.

February ⑦ The Osteria launches its prix fixe lunch.

At $20 for an antipasto, primo or secondo, plus a dolce, it’s got to be the best deal in town. × Brazilian songstress Luanda Jones, the always-smiling hostess at Adelaide, participated in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, where she was honoured for her contribution to the Brazilian music scene in Toronto. × All-star Queen Street server Jill Riley— and accomplished filmmaker—got herself a coveted spot at the Banff Centre for the Women in the Director’s Chair workshop.

May/June ⑧ Our new bakery, Sud Forno, opens up a couple of doors east from Terroni on Queen. Ciabatta for all!

May ⑨ Terroni LA 2.0! Our second location— a beautiful 6,000 sq. feet inside an historic building in the heart of downtown—opens on the 14th.

Ongoing Just Funnin’, a weekly event hosted by DJ Edwin Hubble (Bettola and Osteria’s bar manager extraordinaire Chris Evans) takes place every Monday at Handlebar in Kensington Market. Check it out for all your funk, soul, R&B and post-disco synth pop needs! 159 Augusta Ave. Coming In 2014 Stephen Alexander, the former cover model of this magazine, not to mention the owner of Cumbrae Farms…okay, and our fantastic butcher, will open up a new location right beside our bakery, Sud Forno, on Queen St. W.

By Taylor Dickie

SAPEVI C HE

by Rick & Sandra Kang

24

Ok, Vincisgrassi. We know you’re a lasagna from Le Marche with suspicious origins, packin’ pork, mushrooms, tomato… ’ and full of bechamel and truffles. But where’d you really come from?

Some say I was named after Windisch-Graetz, an Austrian general...

…stationed in Ancona* battling Napoleon in 1799.

*Ancona is the capital of marche

Sure, that sounds convincing…

What the heck is princigras?

…is a recipe for visgras - layered like lasagna…

What it means is that you’re older than you think…

‘cept WindischGraetz would’ve been 12 at the time…

All I knows is Antonio Nebbia wrote Cuoco maceratese in 1781…

It means “fat for the prince”…

So we both got truffles and similar names. So what?

...and gatto’ alla misgrasse - an elaborate baked dish with vincisgrassi sauce.

Huh?!

Now I’m confused.

And still part of the rich traditions of Le Marche - especially in Macerata.

That’s it!

I’ve had enough!

...about a “salza per il princigras” - a cream sauce with truffles and prosciutto.

So this: about 100 years later, in the Cuoco Perfetto Marchigiano…

Yeah! me, too.

Had enough?

Almost…

A comic by rick & sandra Kang