Artigianato: generations of tradition in Campania and Kiton sartoria Napoletana
L'oro di Napoli: a journey through music and theatre in the shadow of Vesuvius
Ciro Pipoli Photography: born between the Vesuvius and the sea
CUCINA CAMPANA
Chef Giovanna Alonzi’s recipes from Campania
Catch up with what’s new at Gruppo Terroni
EDITOR'S LETTER
PUBLISHER
Gruppo Terroni
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Elena di Maria
ART DIRECTOR
Francesco Danilo
Di Leo
I’m so excited to take you on a trip to Campania in this new issue of T-Mag. This region in southern Italy is alive with colour, music, culture and flavours, and we’re diving into all the things that make it unforgettable. Campania, and especially Napoli hold a special place in my heart. My mom was born in the city and, although she didn’t grow up there, my first visit felt like coming home. I have always been proud that my family is tied to this vibrant, complex city.
Campania’s heart is Napoli, a city that’s always bursting with life. It’s the birthplace of Napoletano music and theatre where storytelling through song and performance is a way of life, capturing love, laughter, and the grit of the city. Wander through Naples, and you’ll hear classic Neapolitan tunes echoing from street corners and balconies, a timeless reminder of the city’s creative spirit.
Then there’s the food. Naples is the street food capital of Italy, and for good reason. Each dish is simple yet bursting with flavour, just like the people who make them. That said, it is not all pizza and babà. Curating this magazine reminded me of a long forgotten boyfriend who took me to Napoli and proudly offered me a selection from a tripperia (Napoletano offal vendor where all parts of the animal are fair game). I don’t remember what I ate, but let’s just say that I am glad I tried it once.
Campania is also home to some incredible artisans. We had the chance to meet locals who are keeping old crafts alive—nativity makers, cameo carvers, and more, who pour generations of skill into every piece they make. Their work reflects the beauty and tradition of the region, and we’re proud to share their stories with you. As always, our passion for discovering and sharing artisanal magic extends to Canada too, where we met with Cindi Emond and Karen Gunna, two incredible artists in their own right.
Thank you for joining us in exploring Campania’s unique mix of tradition and innovation. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together. And if you have any Campania stories or memories, I’d love to hear them! Please drop us a line at magazine@terroni.com.
Buona lettura, and thank you for being part of our community!
DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Woodhouse
COVER
PHOTOGRAPHY
Ciro Pipoli
PHOTOGRAPHY
Francesco Giorgio
Alex Mambrini
MANY
THANKS TO Karina Watson
Small Project Studio
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CONTRIBUTORS
Giovanna Alonzi
Giovanna (Gio) Alonzi is originally from Lazio, Italy and is the Executive Chef of Sud Forno. Above all, Gio appreciates a good bowl of Tortellini in Brodo, pizza and bread, random kindness and a good laugh. For these reasons she loves her job. In her time off, she’s an avid runner, no matter the weather, and loves exploring the Ontario countryside with her children Matti and Ali before going home to her partner Fabio’s crescentine and an ice-cold beer.
Cucina Campana, P.24
Spaghetti alla puttanesca, P.38
Francesco Danilo Di Leo
Danilo is originally from Le Marche region in Italy, but he’s a Terrone at heart, thanks to his Pugliese Family. Currently the Senior Graphic Designer at Gruppo Terroni, when he’s not designing, you’ll find him involved in his local church and always up for a passeggiata around the city or a good espresso.
L'oro di Napoli P.18 Instagram P.40
Andrea Tonicello
Born and raised in Veneto, Italy, Andrea is the Senior Wine Director for Terroni and Cavinona. He has completed a variety of courses in several areas, including wine, olive oil, mineral water, bartending and tea. With a career spanning over 20 in the hospitality industry, Andrea enthusiastically shares his knowledge and experience with others.
Vino della Campania P.31
Olivia Mammoliti
Olivia is an Italian-Canadian and proud Terrona. She wrote this article during her summer internship when her Mom told her she had to. She fell in love with Italy while spending her summers there and is excited to share her travel guide to Campania. What to see in Campania P.14
Megan Woodhouse
Megan is a Zimbabwean born, baby Canadian, wannabe Italian who shares a home with her husband, James. She has since purchased a new sofa. She loves words, everyday magic and shiny rocks. Her proudest accomplishments include successfully getting face-value Taylor Swift tickets and the two times her boss called her Shakespeare.
Napoli P.4
Artisans of Canada P.11
Cindi Emond P.13
Kiton P.33
Ciro Pipoli Photography P.36
Francesco Giorgio
Francesco is a proud Terrone from Basilicata and currently the Director of Marketing for Gruppo Terroni. He fell in love with Terroni when he thought his Nonna was in the kitchen on his first visit to Terroni Queen. A few months later he applied for a job in Marketing with Elena and they've been partners in crime ever since. Terroni News is Good News P.39
Silvia Agatiello
Silvia is originally from Avellino, Campania. A lover of good food and wine, she found Terroni after moving to Canada 8 years ago, and after joining, missing home felt a little lighter than before. In her opinion, Toronto offers a lot of great restaurants and different types of cuisine from all over the world, but if you add ingredients that don’t belong to traditional dishes, don’t call it Italian! Who’s Alfredo??? Lol
Street Food P.22
Jessica Allen
JA is a writer and the correspondent on CTV’s The Social. She used to be an assistant editor at Maclean’s Magazine, a national columnist at Metro, and, most importantly, a dishwasher at Terroni.
Index P.3
Jessie Allen
Number of regions that border the region of Campania: 4 (Lazio, Molise, Puglia, Basilicata)
Population of the city of Naples, the region’s capital: 907,484
Millennium in which ancient Greeks first settled in the area: 2nd BC
Height in metres of Vesuvius, the region’s, and perhaps world’s, most famous volcano: 1,281
Number of the 58 UNESCO sites in Italy located in Campania: 10
Year that a Caprese salad first appeared on a menu in Capri’s Hotel Quisisana: 1926
References to balsamic vinegar on the menu: 0
Year that Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, often called “white gold” received its DOP status: 1996
Tons produced in 2024: 54,865
Number of DOCG and DOC wines produced in the region: 19
Number of wines from Campania imported by Cavinona: 26
Number of tourists who visited the archaeological site of Pompeii 2024: 4 million
Who visit the nearby archaeological site of Herculaneum: 300,000
Surface area in square miles of the island of Ischia: 18
Annual visitors to the island: 6 million
Population of permanent residents in Ischia: 62,000
Year that Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor filmed parts of Cleopatra on the island: 1962
Rank of the Amalfi Coast in U.S. News and World Reports Best Honeymoon Destinations: 2
Average price of a hotel room in Positano: $789
Instagram posts with hashtag #AmalfiCoast: 4 million
Year that the poet Virgil’s ashes, per his instructions, were placed in a burial vault at the entrance of the Grotto Vecchia in Naples: 19 BC
Views on TikTok of the hashtag #VirgilsTomb: 0
PUGLIA
Year that Caravaggio established a studio in Naples: 1606
Number of his paintings you can see around the region: 3
Year that Sofia Loren, born in Pozzuoli, won the first Academy Award ever given to a performer in a nonEnglish role: 1961
Number of the Italian neo-realist director Vittorio de Sica films set in Naples: 4
Number of rooms in the five-story, Royal Palace Of Caserta, the largest former royal residence in the world: 1,200
Number of fireplaces: 1,026
Types of pizza that Naples’ Da Michele, one of the oldest pizzerias in the world, serves: 2 (Marinara and Margherita)
Book in Homer’s The Odyssey in which the Sirens attempt to lure Odysseus with their song off the coast of Capri: 12
Number of pasta shapes made in Gragnano, the birthplace of dried pasta: 200+
Number of brothels found in Pompeii: at least 25
Price in lire of a wooden penisshaped keychain sold outside the archaeological site that this author’s mother nearly purchased in 1992: 3,000
Number of “penis pointers” found on walls, roads, above doorways and even bread ovens, serving as arrows to the nearest Pompeiian brothel: ∞
NAPULE È MILLE CULURE
"Vir Napule e po muor" See Naples
and then die
- J. W. Von Goethe
The streets of Napoli are a world of chaotic emotion, the beating heart of which are their residents. Neapolitans are like one enormous family, they will tease you, feed you and welcome you into their world with pride (and if needed they will also tell you to…). Everything in this city comes from love. Napoletano radiate it. It’s like their proximity to Mt Vesuvius has infused them with a warmth that erupts in the way they
speak and behave, their values, their passions, and even their food.
Navigating Napoli, in particular the bleak alleyways of Quartieri Spagnoli means taking your chances in a neon-lit maze of crumbling tuft stone. Narrow cobbled streets are lined with buildings crusted with old posters and death notices. From each door, small stores tumble into the street, lining the tight alleyways with religious artefacts and Maradona paraphernalia. Naples has a long history of faith, superstition and devotion – there is barely a corner not decorated with Madonna and Maradona. Napoletano joke that there is Maradona, then Mamma, then God.
The air is thick with the scent of fresh caught fish and hot oil cut by the tang of salt air and the chemi-
cal sweetness of laundry detergent. Blue buckets are dropped from the higher floors by harassed Mammas too busy to climb down to the street. They are filled with a variety of purchases and then levered up again like makeshift dumb waiters. Ground floor windows are decorated with friendly (if meddlesome) Nonnas puffing on cigarettes and monitoring the street for gossip or trouble stirred up by scrappy roving gangs of scugnizzi urchins you can’t help but root for. Look up and the sky is barely visible between the rows of laundry draped between buildings.
This pulsing hive is just one face of Città del Sole. Make your way out of the centre hustle and bustle and you will find yourself in Chiaia, Posillipo and Vomero. In Napoli, there is a saying A lira
Top: View of the gulf of Napoli from Posillipo Bottom left: Teatro San Carlo, Napoli Bottom right: Piazza del Plebiscito, Napoli
fa ‘o ricco, a crianza fa o signore‘money makes one rich, but a good education makes one a gentleman’. Nowhere is this truer than in these upper-crust neighbourhoods, home to families who have sought out knowledge and beauty for centuries. The University of Naples Federico II, founded in 1224, is one of the oldest universities in the world. Even before that, Parmenides (515 – 450 BC), who is thought to be the inventor of logic, founded the Eleatic School just south of modernday Napoli. Education, philosophy and the refinement that comes with them are as much a part of Napoli as the frenetic streets of Quartieri Spagnoli.
Along with philosophy, Napoli has long been a hub for artists. Once nicknamed ‘The Conservatory of Europe’, Napoli has hosted
composers like Scarlatti, Pergolesi, Piccinni, Cimarosa, Rossini, Bellini and Donizetti. Painters like Caravaggio, Luca Giordano, Massimo Stanzione, Ribera and Preti defined the dramatic expression and naturalism that typifies Napoli’s art and legendary choreographer Auguste Bournonville created a ballet inspired by the home of the Tarantella.
What connects people from all walks of life in this city is the constant reminder of their own mortality. Acclaimed singer, songwriter and lyricist, Roberto Vecchioni said it best. “Naples is a temporary city, it is under a volcano, every day is a life because anything can happen, it had all the possible and imaginable dominations, they could die from one day to the next. Instead, they have become very strong, exceptional, imaginative, wonderful.” Per-
haps this is why Napoletano have a reputation for living so fully, dedicated to l’arte di arrangiarisi or the art of getting by. No matter what fate has in store for a Neapolitan, they will find a way to deal with it with ingenuity and gusto
As I have discovered more about Italy I cannot help but become increasingly awed by the sheer depth of this country’s history, culture and character. Napoli presents us the opportunity to experience a hundred unique facets of that character. The closest I have come to understanding this city is its people. Their pride, peculiarities, poise and passion have built this ancient city and continue to define it. Shaped by its inhabitants Napoli is an everevolving, living, breathing being that, once discovered, will hold a piece of your heart forever.
Top left: Local Market. Top right: Neapolitan Cornicelli. Bottom left: Maradona's shrine in the Quartieri Spagnoli
Neolith - New Classtone Collection - Calacatta Royale
FINE ART AND FAMILY:
Campania's artisanal legacy shared over generations
As with every issue of TMag, when writing this one we began with our mission to discover the artisans of Campania. Preserving Italy's artisanal craftsmanship safeguards centuries of heritage, skill, and passion, embodying authenticity and quality that no machine can replicate. Campania is a testament to centuries-old craftsmanship, where artisans have cultivated a myriad of traditions. Many of these traditions are closely guarded by families who have passed down their skills and secrets over generations, preserving the art and value of handmade masterpieces that might have otherwise been lost to machines or factories. Some evolving to meet demands of the time, others doubling-down on the value of traditional arts. Travel across the region with us from intricately carved wooden inlays in Sorrento and Cameos in Torre del Greco to the colourful fashion unique to Positano and the handcrafted nativities from Napoli that have made their way to religious institutions and private homes around the world.
STINGA FAMILY WOOD INLAYS
Sorrento, a town perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples, has been a global capital for wood inlay craftsmanship since the 14th Century. Among the distinguished artisans, the Stinga family has been at the forefront of preserving and evolving this tradition for 3 generations before which they were cabinet makers. Their work is a testament to their skill in inlaying, a technique involving the meticulous blending of different wood types to create intricate designs. Stinga Tarsia, the family business, is driven by the philosophy that hands are the greatest tools and that the small imperfections that come from doing things by hand add to an object’s value. While Stinga Tarsia continues to create traditional intricate designs many of which have been handed down through the family, they have also modernised using colourfully stained wood and minimal, modern designs. stingatarsia.com
Elena Di Maria
DI LUCA FAMILY CAMEO CRAFTSMANSHIP
The art of Italian cameo making, called Glittica, is one of the most ancient forms of jewellery. Although it stemmed from Ancient Egypt, it was the Romans who developed the cameo as we know it today.
Romans believed that coral had protective properties, so much so that a philosopher, Pliny, suggested that coral would protect the wearer from lightning and unwelcome would-be seducers. It is little wonder that the art thrived in a city which grew from a legend of siren song and sailors.
Torre del Greco is the cameo capital of Italy and, for three generations the Di Luca family of Cameo Italiano has been hand-crafting these miniature masterpieces. Their cameos are usually carved out of shells by master engravers, each piece made almost entirely by hand. The family began creating cameos in 1957
when Michele Di Luca founded the company. His children grew it globally with 75% of sales now happening online. Despite this growth, each piece is made the way it has been for generations; the part of the shell to be worked, the “aggarbato” piece, is attached to the end of a wooden stick. After studying the drawing to be made, the engraver sketches it on the shell, painstakingly creating a new work of art. cameoitaliano.com
FERRIGNO FAMILY NATIVITIES
Naples is renowned for its elaborate nativities, in particular the San Gregorio Armeno quarter of the city where the tradition still thrives. These nativities (presepi) and pastoral icons ( pastori) capture the city’s spirit - dramatic, baroque, dark, animated, and funny all at the same time. The tradition of nativity began in 1223 when St Francis of Assisi reenacted the birth of Christ with live animals and actors. The first mention of Presepe, as we see today, is 100 years later in a church in Naples.
The Ferrigno family are known to be masters of the nativity. Employing techniques that have been used since the 18th century. The limbs of Ferrigno nativities are made of terracotta and wire wrapped in cloth so that each figure is posable. The clothing is handmade from San Leucio silks and most of the figures have glass eyes. Alongside nativity scenes, the windows of Ferrigno’s store in Naples are filled with sportspeople (Maradona foremost), artists and politicians. These images offer a satirical view of the modern world rendered in an ancient art form, they also attract younger buyers who may not be seeking religious scenes. Although the current owner Marco Ferrigno inherited the store from his father, he is unsure whether his son will carry on the legacy saying only “The world has changed and everything goes much faster now. The difficult thing, today, is to meravigliarsi – to allow yourself to be amazed, to be filled with wonder”. arteferrigno.it
LUISA POSITANO FASHION
Positano is known for its distinctive fashion. The streets are lined with little stores spilling a riot of colour from their whitewashed facades. Today travellers visit the city with mile-long shopping lists but the bright and brazen styles were not always so popular. Originally considered outlandish and over-the-top, these relaxed and beachy garments were once mocked as “pezze di Positano” or rags from Positano.
The 1950s saw the rise of Positano fashion’s popularity and Luisa Positano has played a pivotal role in shaping the fashion landscape through her self-named brand. Having studied the art of sewing and tombola lace with the nuns of Luigi Rossi, Luisa apprenticed under Irene Kowaliska, the prominent artist and designer who created prints that made their way into boutiques across Italy. Today Luisa Positano offers handmade designs that marry Positano’s iconic prints and tombola lacework with Italian linen. Luisa still spends most of her days in the store so be sure to keep an eye out for her if you choose to visit. luisapositano.it
AMATRUDA FAMILY PAPER MAKING
Paper making in the Amalfi dates back to the Middle Ages. The growth of paper mills in the area began in the first half of the 12th Century however today, only one mill is still standing. Amatruda is a family-run mill that has operated for centuries, producing La Carta di Amalfi in the Kingdom of Two Sicilies from 1282. Every sheet takes 20+ days to finish and is created using traditional methods. It is made from wool or cellulose without bleach or chemicals. Despite threats faced by changing times, in the 1970s Luigi Amatruda and his family took the business back to its roots instead of trying to stay with the times. Since the 70s the business has found success creating a tactile medieval-style paper used for custom stationery. amatruda.eu
Top and middle: Luisa Positano with her fashion designs. Bottom: Cartiera Amatruda production and products
KAREN GUNNA
Karen Gunna, the namesake, founder and artisan behind Karen Gunna designs didn’t start out with the intention of making leather goods. In fact, her background was in sewing but when her sister wanted a pair of suede pants in the 80s, Karen pivoted and the rest, as they say, is history. As her skills grew, leather clothing shifted into accessories. Eventually, the self-taught leather-smith turned her talents to bags and has been designing her extensive range of small leather goods since.
If it can be made from leather, Karen has made it - belts, blotters, leather hassocks, motorcycle side saddles and even leather wedding dresses. One of the drivers behind Karen’s passion for leather work is her dedication to sustainability. While the leather she uses is highly durable and will last for years, it goes beyond even that. At the heart of Karen’s approach to her designs is the practical function of the item, she keeps her line classic, each piece a timeless investment that will serve the wearer for years to come. In her words, ‘there is NEVER any built in obsolescence!’ Once a
Genuine Leather Designs in Toronto
design meets these requirements it becomes a work of art, refined to a shape, colour and style that is exciting to the eye.
If properly made, leather goods will not end up in a landfill after a few uses and this is exactly Karen’s goal. All of her designs are sustainable wardrobe investments - acting more as tools for a busy life than flippant seasonal accessories. They are beautiful and made with skilled craftsmanship, but more than that, these pieces are created to serve a purpose. Karen’s dedication to avoiding waste also goes beyond her own pieces - she offers a service that repairs damaged leather goods in-
cluding even dog leashes and horse bridles.
An advocate for small businesses, Karen champions the magic of meeting the makers behind our products - of knowing the care and detail that have been put into each piece and experiencing the commitment to quality behind the brands we choose to support. When asked about some of the more unusual requests she has had over the years, Karen politely declines to answers, sharing only that it involves custom work for a dominatrix… karengunna.com
A Photographic Journey into the vanishing Traditions of Rural Italy CINDI EMOND
Ahead of her May 2025 exhibition of L'arte che scompare: the disappearing arts we sat down with photographer Cindi Emond. Cindi’s lens is currently focused on the resilience of remote rural communities in Central and Southern Italy, the harsh conditions they face, the adversity they are struggling to overcome and their complex relationship with their heritage and traditions as the world continues to drift further from its pastoral roots.
One part of her four part series is based in Campania where Cindi travelled to document the Asprigno harvest. Near Caserta in a mishmash jumble of industrial buildings, sheds of drying tobacco, and stables for horses and water buffalo, you will find what is one of the world’s smallest and most obscure appellations growing in walls of green. Asprigno grapes grow only in the town of Aversa and in two small villages outside of Naples. What makes these vines even more unusual is how they are grown on towering walls.
Harvesting these vines is a near-acrobatic feat. Men climb tall, spindly unsecured ladders to hand-pick the grapes. These ladders are custom-made for the indi-
vidual picker according to their height and weight. The reward for this onerous task? 40c a pound. The elders are the only ones left willing to do the job and even they are succumbing to time. Cindi tells us that she had originally planned to shoot the Asprigno harvest in 2019 but was unable to make it. When she was eventually able to visit a few years later the head picker had passed on and had not been replaced. They couldn’t find anyone willing to do the precarious job for so little money.
This abandonment of ancient arts speaks to our values as a society. These are renewable arts, they are part of a culture of investing in quality but they are fading because the people and traditions that have kept them alive no longer have the resources or support to continue. The realities of life mean that those with the knowledge of these techniques are either leaving the profession in search of better financial prospects or ageing to the point that they can no longer continue the work. The next generation is simply not interested in dedicating their lives to a fading art. cindiemondphotography.com
WHAT TO SEE IN CAMPANIA
From
the grandeur of Caserta to the sunlit shores of Amalfi, Campania is a region that lingers in your soul long after you leave. This is Campania: timeless, captivating, and unforgettable.
① Reggia di Caserta: A Royal Start
Begin your journey in Caserta, home to the majestic Reggia di Caserta. Built in 1750 by Charles of Bourbon, this sprawling royal palace is the largest of its kind in the world. As you wander its grand halls, adorned with frescoes, gilded details, and centuries-old art, it’s easy to imagine the opulence of 18th-century royal life. Beyond the palace, its expansive park is a masterpiece in itself, featuring fountains, sculptures, and over 200 botanical species. Be sure to explore the English Garden, where winding paths and hidden groves invite quiet reflection.
② Pompeii and the National Archaeological Museum: Unearthing History
Dedicate a day to Campania’s history with a visit to the Pompeii Archaeological Park. Buried under ash during Mount Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 AD, Pompeii offers an unparalleled window into ancient Roman life. Stroll along cobbled streets lined with remarkably preserved villas, bathhouses, and markets. Highlights include the frescoes in the House of the Vettii and the haunting plaster casts of the eruption’s victims.
After Pompeii, head to Naples to visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. Housing treasures from Pompei, the museum complements your experience with artefacts like mosaics, sculptures, and the fascinating “Gabinetto Segreto,” a collection of ancient erotic art most of which was recovered from Pompeii.
③ Sorrento: Sun, Sea, and Stories
Next, travel to Sorrento, gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Many opt to navigate this picturesque stretch by boat, basking in the sun and avoiding the slow, perilously twisty roads.
Sorrento’s beaches offer something for everyone. Marinella Beach and Marina Grande cater to comfort seekers, complete with loungers and umbrellas. For a secluded escape, visit the Queen Giovanna Baths, a hidden natural pool said to be a trysting spot for Joan II of Anjou. Scranjo Beach, infused with sulphuric minerals from an underwater hot spring warmed by Vesuvius, offers a unique blend of relaxation and rejuvenation.
④ Positano and Amalfi: Picture-Perfect Towns
No visit to Campania is complete without experiencing the charm of Positano. This cliffside village feels like stepping into a postcard, with pastel-coloured houses tumbling toward the sea. Explore boutiques offering local fashion, from handmade sandals to breezy linen dresses, and cool down with fresh limonata made from Amalfi’s legendary lemons.
A short drive away lies Amalfi, where history and beauty converge. Visit the 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral, a striking blend of Romanesque and Arabic architecture. Stroll along the Ruga Nova Mercatorum, lined with quaint cafés and souvenir shops. Don’t miss the
Emerald Grotto, a stunning sea cave illuminated by emerald-hued sunlight.
For adventurous souls, the Path of the Gods hike offers jaw-dropping views of the coastline, a must do for any outdoor enthusiast.
⑤ Capri: Island of Glamour Board a ferry to Capri, the jewel of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Take a boat tour to visit the island’s famed grottos—the White, Green, and the iconic Blue Grotto—where sunlight reflected on the water creates magical displays. Sail through the dramatic Faraglioni rock formations, said to be home to sirens.
For panoramic views, ride the chairlift up Monte Solaro, then descend to Capri town to people-watch in the lively piazzetta. Wander Via Camerelle, known for its high-end boutiques, or spend a lazy afternoon on one of Capri’s pristine beaches. Capri’s allure lies in its perfect blend of natural beauty and refined luxury.
This picture-perfect island has been a source of inspiration for centuries with writers like Hitchcock, Bogart, Neruda and more adopting Capri, with its unique blend of warmth and glamour, as their muse.
⑥ Ischia and Procida: A Slice of Island Life
From Capri, set sail for Ischia, Campania’s underrated treasure. Visit Castello Aragonese, a fortress perched on a volcanic islet that offers breathtaking views and fascinating history.
Nature lovers will adore La Mortella, tropical gardens brimming with rare plants, fountains, and scenic viewpoints. For a rejuvenating experience, soak in Ischia’s thermal baths, where healing waters have been cherished for centuries.
Round out your journey on Procida, the smallest and most charming of the Amalfi Islands. Vibrant and unspoiled, Procida was named Italy’s Capital of Culture in 2022. Begin at Marina Grande, the bustling harbor where sorbet-hued buildings set the tone for the island’s laid-back vibe. Here, the lemon-yellow Santa Maria delle Grazie church stands watch over colourful fishing boats bobbing in the harbour.
Stroll down Via Roma for fresh seafood at La Medusa, a local institution since 1950, and sample the island’s signature treat, lingua di suocera (mother-in-law’s tongue pastry). It’s a place to slow down, sip a chilled limone spritz, and savour the essence of Campania.
Francesco Danilo Di Leo
L'ORO DI NAPOLI
A journey through music and theatre in the shadow of Vesuvius
Naples, a city steeped in legend and music, owes its origin to a myth as captivating as its culture. According to ancient lore, the siren Parthenope, frustrated by Ulysses' defiance of her song, cast herself into the sea. The tide carried her body to shore, and the city of Naples is said to have been built where it was found on the coast. This myth of song and tragedy perfectly mirrors the character of Naples—a city where beauty and pathos intertwine, where life is lived with fervour, and where art thrives as a vibrant expression of the human spirit.
Situated on the shimmering Bay of Naples, the city basks in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, an everpresent reminder of life’s fragility. Perhaps it is this combination of idyllic surroundings and the looming spectre of catastrophe that has forged the unique Neapolitan approach to life: joyous, passionate, and deeply dramatic. It is a culture where art, whether in theatre,
music, or film, serves as an outlet for the rich emotional tapestry of its people.
A CRADLE OF THEATRE
Naples’ relationship with theatre stretches back millennia to its days under Roman rule. The remnants of the Teatro di Napoli, constructed in 27 BC under Emperor Augustus, still stand near modern-day Piazza Bellini. These ancient stages, once the heart of public entertainment, featured plays, music, and spectacles that united citizens in shared moments of joy and reflection.
The city’s dramatic traditions saw a renaissance during the reign of Alfonso of Aragon in the 15th century. As a patron of the arts, Alfonso transformed Naples into a hub of humanist thought and cultural innovation. Poets and intellectuals like Jacopo Sannazaro infused their works with pastoral themes, humour, and the candid use of the
Neapolitan dialect, giving rise to a theatrical tradition that spoke to the common people.
From these roots emerged Commedia dell’Arte, a lively and improvisational form of theatre that birthed Pulcinella, one of its most enduring characters. Created in 1620 by actor Silvio Fiorillo, Pulcinella is instantly recognisable with his white costume, black mask, and exaggerated gestures. Pulci-
Facing page top: Pino Daniele, Totò and Sophia Loren
Facing page bottom: Sketch of Pulcinella
Top left: Totò in "Miseria e Nobiltà"
Top right: Eduardo De Filippo
Bottom left: Massimo Troisi
Bottom right: Teatro San Carlo in Napoli
nella’s humour and wit embody the resilience and resourcefulness of Naples, and his legacy continues to influence performers to this day. Massimo Troisi, for instance, reimagined the spirit of Pulcinella in modern, dialect-rich performances, connecting the character’s essence to contemporary Naples and ensuring this age-old character evolved for modern audiences.
The evolution of Neapolitan theatre continued with Eduardo Scarpetta, who introduced Felice Sciosciammocca, a cheerful counterpart to Pulcinella’s darker, more streetwise demeanour. Scarpetta’s works, such as Miseria e Nobiltà, became beloved staples of Neapolitan theatre, capturing the humour and
vitality of everyday life. His influence extended to his son, Eduardo De Filippo, whose groundbreaking plays brought the struggles and joys of Neapolitan families to international audiences.
De Filippo’s Natale in Casa Cupiello offers a poignant and humorous portrayal of family life in Naples, grappling with universal themes of generational conflict and the clash between tradition and modernity. The play’s richly drawn characters and heartfelt narrative reflect the essence of Neapolitan identity—resilient, passionate, and deeply human.
Naples’ theatrical tradition also gave birth to the sceneggiata Napoletana, a genre of musical melodrama blending comedy and tragedy. Pioneered by figures like Nino Taranto and Mario Merola, these performances became a cultural phenomenon, resonating both in Naples and in Italian-American communities abroad. No discussion of Neapolitan theatre would be complete without mentioning Totò, the “Prince of Laughter.” Renowned for his physical comedy and expressive performances, Totò captured the humour and heartbreak of Naples, leaving an indelible mark on both stage and screen. His works, including Miseria e Nobiltà and Totò, Peppino e la Malafemmina, remain iconic, showcasing the enduring appeal of Naples’ theatrical heritage
have been drawn to the city’s atmospheric streets, using Naples as a backdrop to tell stories of struggle, redemption, and love. Works like Gomorra reveal the city’s darker realities, while films such as Il Postino (starring Troisi) celebrate its poetic soul.
MUSIC: THE SOUL OF NAPLES
If theatre is the body of Naples, music is its soul. The city is uniquely associated with its own musical genre, La Musica Napoletana, which has captivated audiences worldwide for centuries.
Naples’ flair for drama and music naturally extends to film. Actors like Massimo Troisi brought the city’s humour and heart to the silver screen, while Sophia Loren became an international icon, embodying Neapolitan beauty and resilience. Loren’s performances in films like Two Women and Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow showcased her emotional depth and connection to her Neapolitan roots.
More recently, Toni Servillo has garnered acclaim for his performances in films like La Grande Bellezza and Il Divo, showcasing the depth and versatility of Naples’ artistic talent. Filmmakers, too,
The roots of Neapolitan music stretch back to the medieval songs of washerwomen, whose melodies filled the air as they laboured under the sun. By the 13th century, the Università Partenopea became the first home of La Musica Napoletana as we know it—poetry set to music. Alfonso of Aragon’s elevation of the Neapolitan dialect in the
15th century further enriched this tradition, making it accessible and cherished by all.
The Teatro di San Carlo in Naples is arguably the church of Neapolitan music, its opulent interior and grand facade pay homage to the music on which Napoli is built. Founded in 1737, it is one of the oldest continuously active opera houses in the world and a symbol of the city’s rich cultural heritage. Situated near Piazza del Plebiscito, the grand theatre reflects Naples' historic status as a cultural and artistic hub in Europe. Over the centuries, it has hosted the premieres of iconic operas by composers like Gioachino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti, with masterpieces such as The Barber of Seville and Lucia di Lammermoor gracing its stage. Renowned performers, including Maria Callas, Enrico Caruso, and Renata Tebaldi, have delivered unforgettable performances in its opulent setting. With its impeccable acoustics and majestic architecture, the San Carlo remains a beacon of Neapolitan identity and continues to draw audiences from around the world, reaffirming Naples' legacy as a city of music and art.
became a launchpad for Neapolitan classics like Funiculì funiculà,
melancholy, encapsulate the spirit of Naples—vibrant, soulful, and deeply connected to its roots. Tracks like Napule è and Je so’ pazzo highlight his lyrical genius and ability to weave the city’s essence into every note.
A turning point for Neapolitan music came with Te voglio bene assaje, a song composed by Raffaele Sacco that marked the transition from classical and folk music to authored compositions. Premiered at the Piedigrotta festival, it became a sensation, selling over 180,000 copies of its lyrics. The festival
’O sole mio, and Maria Marì, songs that transcended borders to become global treasures. The 20th century saw Neapolitan music reach new heights. Songs like Tammurriata nera and Malafemmena captured the struggles and joys of a changing society, while artists like Renato Carosone and Roberto Murolo preserved the genre’s authenticity. Murolo’s warm voice and mastery of the guitar ensured that the beauty of Neapolitan music was passed down through generations.
Neapolitan music also found an international audience, with opera singers and even Elvis Presley adapting its melodies. Presley’s It’s Now or Never, based on ’O sole mio, introduced the genre to millions, proving its universal appeal. The 1960s brought a new chapter with the rise of Neomelodica, a modern evolution of the sceneggiata. Artists like Mario Merola and Nino D’Angelo pioneered this genre, which blends melodrama with contemporary rhythms to tell stories of love, loss, and resilience. Neomelodica quickly became the voice of Naples’ working-class neighbourhoods, capturing the struggles and aspirations of everyday life. Its influence extended into the 1970s and beyond, with artists experimenting with rap, techno, and African beats to reflect the city’s evolving identity.
Pino Daniele emerged as a trailblazer, fusing jazz, blues, and rock with Neapolitan musical traditions. His songs, filled with passion and
Other artists, such as Peppino Di Capri and Roberto De Simone, explored new fusions, blending Neapolitan melodies with foreign influences. And who can forget Gigi D'Alessio, who rose to fame in the 90's with his blend of Neapolitan and pop sounds. Today, artists like Clementino, Rocco Hunt, and Liberato continue to push boundaries, merging tradition with innovation to create music that speaks to a global audience.
A LIVING LEGACY
Naples is more than a city—it is a living, breathing work of art. Its theatre, music, and film reflect a culture that celebrates life in all its complexity, finding beauty in both joy and sorrow. From the timeless melodies of ’O sole mio to the enduring humour of Pulcinella, Naples offers a rich tapestry of creativity that continues to inspire and captivate the world. The city’s cultural legacy is not just a reflection of its past but also a promise of its future. Here, in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, life’s fragility and beauty coexist in a dance of endless creativity, making Naples a true cultural beacon.
Top: Massimo Ranieri. Bottom left: Renato Carosone. Bottom right: Photo of Liberato, Italian singer and songwriter whose identity is unknown.
NAPOLI AND ITS STREET FOOD
My first day in Naples marked the beginning of a culinary journey that would forever intertwine my life with the vibrant street food culture of this captivating city.
Having moved from Avellino at the age of 20 to study at the Università Orientale di Napoli, situated in the historic heart of Naples, I quickly discovered that the city's essence is best captured through its street food.
Morning Rituals
Walking to class each morning, the fragrant aroma of cornetti and sfogliatelle wafting through the air became my daily companion. These scents led me to local bakeries where I embraced the unspoken Neapolitan ritual of pairing my first espresso with freshly baked pastries, still warm from the oven. It was an immediate sense of home,
a culinary embrace that defined my experience in Naples.
Choices, Choices Choices
As a student navigating the daily grind (and Naples’ labyrinth of narrow streets), choosing between the abundance of local Macelleria (butcher shops) for a quick sandwich became a delightful dilemma. The panino con la mortadella, prosciutto, or salame, depending on your preference, represent a simple yet satisfying escape from the complexities of student life. I favoured the salame and, with the addition of the mozzarella that Campania is famous for, each bite became a moment of bliss.
Campania’s Culinary Icons
Naples is a city that lives, breathes, and celebrates food as part of its cultural fabric. One of the most iconic street foods is Pizza Fritta (cousin to the Pugliese panzerotto). Born out of necessity during the Second World War when traditional
pizza became a luxury, Neapolitans, always inclined toward l’arte di arrangiarsi (the art of getting by), fried scraps of dough to satiate their hunger. Today, a few artisans continue this tradition, selling these delectably oily treats through their windows. Walking through the streets near Piazza Carità, I often stopped to savour pizza fritta with cicoli (pork fat and ricotta).
Given Naples' proximity to the sea, Cuoppo, a cone-shaped paper cup filled with lightly floured fried
Silvia Agatiello
seafood, became another street food favourite. Fresh, perfectly salted, and reminiscent of the sea, Cuoppo is an indulgence not meant for sharing.
Then there is Fritto Misto, a jumble of fried bites like zucchini
SILVIA'S FAVOURITE
SPOTS
• Fernanda - Piazza Carita’
• Teresa - Vico Santa Maria Ogni Bene
• Campagnola - Via dei Tribunali
• Il Gobbetto - Quartieri Spagnoli
• Nennella - Quartieri Spagnoli
strips, crocchè di patate, arancini, and mozzarella balls. This is a common order in pizzerias. Di Matteo, located in Via dei Tribunali, is renowned for serving one of the best fritto misto in town.
For a quick and universally ap-
• Tandem Ragú (3 locations)
- Piazza del Gesu’ - Piazzetta Nilo
- Via Mezzocannone
• La Pescheria Azzurra (fish market with outdoor seating)
- Via Portamedina
• Il Cuoppo - Spaccanapoli
• Gino Sorbillo Pizza Fritta
- Piazzetta Nilo
pealing snack, look no further than a pizzetta – a classic mini pizza with tomato and mozzarella. Found in bakeries and small bars across the city, it serves as a convenient and delicious pick-me-up. Naples is also home to the pizza a portafoglio (wallet pizza), where folding your pizza into quarters is both a necessity and a tradition. Initially peculiar to tourists, this method soon reveals its practical brilliance, making a convenient way to enjoy pizza on the go in Naples' bustling streets.
Sweet Tooth Paradise
Street food in Naples caters to those with a sweet tooth too. Sfogliatella, with its variants riccia and frolla, is a quintessential lobster tail shaped pastry filled with sweet crema. Babà, a spongy cake soaked in rumbased syrup, is a delicacy.
In the scorching summer months, locals turn to gelato and granita. Granita, a shaved ice dessert with colourful fruit-flavoured syrup, provides much-needed relief from the heat.
Poppella, located in Via Toledo, is a must-stop for their unforgettable fiocchi di neve (snowflakes). These soft brioches filled with delicate ricotta, touched with a hint of vanilla, offer a delightful treat during a stroll along the Lungomare.
Naples' street food is not just a culinary experience; it is a celebration of life, culture, and community. From the ingenious Pizza Fritta born out of wartime struggles to the delightful array of desserts that satisfy every craving, Naples' street food reflects the city's resilience, warmth, and passion for life's simple pleasures. If you find yourself in Naples, let the streets guide you to these culinary treasures, and you'll discover comfort in the form of pure, perfect, and oil-infused delights.
• Vac e Presse - Piazza Dante
• Di Matteo - Via dei Tribunali
• Poppella - Via Santa Brigida
• Cammarota Spritz - Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo
• Taralleria Napoletana - Via San Biagio Dei Librai
• Da Carmine - Via dei Tribunali
• Fiorenzano - Via Pignasecca
FROM PIZZA TO PASTRIES
Chef Gio's Journey Through the Heart of Campania
Visiting Napoli for the first time felt like stepping into a living memory of my childhood.
Growing up in central Italy, food and cooking were woven into the fabric of my daily life. Food wasn’t just sustenance—it was culture, connection, and care. Cooking wasn’t about following recipes; it was a celebration of ingredients, stories, and the emotions they stirred. Food was always a love story. It was the morning stop at the panificio, where my mother would tuck slices of pizza bianca filled with mortadella or prosciutto into my school bag. Or it was the afternoon visits to family friends, where we’d bring sweets just picked up from the pasticceria and where I’d be handed a few thousand lire to wander and hunt down pizza or gelato to keep me entertained.
Moving across the ocean, shifted the place from the experience of food, the flavours from their sources and weakened their connections. The joy of simple, heartfelt cooking sometimes felt obscured by the pressures of innovation and presentation. But, Napoli brought me right back to recess and that slice of pizza. Suddenly, I was savouring its salt-kissed crust and the delicious tomato sauce that still brings a smile to my face. In Naples, the taste of pizza is genuine and real. It
was invented here, as a humble street food, embraced by the working class for its simplicity and affordability. Flatbreads date back over 3,000 years to ancient Mediterranean civilizations, but what revolutionized Neapolitan Pizza was the arrival of tomatoes from the Americas in the 18th-century. It was the volcanic soil of Campania that nurtured the San Marzano tomato like nowhere else. It became the ingredient that now defines the region's flavour profile. San Marzano tomatoes are the foundation of the two quintessential pizze Napoletane: Marinara (tomato, garlic, oregano) and Margherita (tomato, mozzarella, basil). Legend has it that the iconic pizza Margherita was created in June 1889, when the Royal Palace of Capodimonte commissioned Neapolitan pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito to craft a pizza in honour of Queen Margherita's visit to Naples. Of the three pizzas he prepared, the queen favoured one representing the colours of the Italian flag: red (tomato), green (basil), and white (mozzarella). This pizza was named in her honour, with an official letter of recognition from the queen’s head of service still displayed at Esposito’s shop, now Pizzeria Brandi. The most humble and simple street food received official royal assent and begun the path of elevation of cucina povera to elitist status.
The classics remain a cornerstone of Napoli’s identity even as modern contemporary pizza Napoletana
CUCINA CAMPANA
Giovanna Alonzi
Giovanna Alonzi
incorporates innovative flavours and local specialties. Walking along Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of the centro storico, I experienced this firsthand. Iconic pizzerie like Da Michele and Sorbillo still stand out as the best places to enjoy a Margherita or a Marinara. The transformation of pizza into a global icon is a tale of cultural exchange, it speaks to how the origins of classic dishes mirror the beginnings of so many great things.
However, Napoli’s culinary greatness stems from so much more than just pizza. The city is a symphony of aromas and scents: the smokiness of wood-fired ovens, the briny sea air, and the vibrant smells of markets bursting with ripe produce. Walking through Spacca-
napoli, the narrow streets come alive with the chatter of diners, the glow of trattorie, and the occasional serenade of a street musician. Napoli's culinary repertoire celebrates bold simplicity, think of how the creaminess of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana shines in a classic insalata Caprese. Street foods like frittatina di pasta—a crispy patty of pasta, béchamel, peas, ham, and cheese—showcase the city’s knack for reinvention. Our featured recipes Crocchè di patate and Pizzelle Fritte speak to the Neapolitan passion for decadence, indulgence and fun.
Seafood is a highlight, a couple of my favourites are Polpo alla Luciana (braised octopus with tomatoes, ol-
ives, and capers) and Alici Marinate (anchovies marinated in lemon and olive oil); they are simple dishes where every ingredient counts. Among primi piatti, pasta e patate con la provola—a hearty mix of pasta, potatoes, and smoky provola cheese—is quintessential comfort food. I've whipped this up countless times in my kitchen in Toronto and it really cuts through those frigid Canadian winters.
The city’s desserts are equally unforgettable. I regularly dream of the crispy layers of a sfogliatella. Classics like zeppole, and the rum-soaked decadence of babà al rum all reflect Naples’ deep love of sweet in-
CUCINA CAMPANA
dulgence. A glass of limoncello made with Campania’s famous lemons is the perfect finale to any meal.
Walking through Napoli felt like reconnecting with the roots of my own culinary journey. It reminded me that, much like the pizza of my childhood, the best food is born from simple, high-quality ingredients, shaped by tradition, and infused with passion. Napoli doesn’t just serve pizza; it serves a way of life—one where food, family, and community take centre stage. For me, this city wasn’t just a destination; it was a return to the essence of why I fell in love with cooking in the first place.
Ingredients
• 1kg Yukon Gold potatoes (boiled, milled)
• 140g Grana Padano/ Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
• 10g Pecorino Romano, grated
• 4 egg yolks
• 8 egg whites - lightly whisked
• Nutmeg, salt, black pepper
• 140g mozzarella, diced (1 cm)
• 140g prosciutto cotto, diced (1 cm)
• 50 g flour
• 400g breadcrumbs
• Oil for frying
Instructions
In a bowl, combine milled potatoes, cheeses, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Add egg yolks and mix until just combined. Take about 2½ tbsp of the mixture and flatten it in your palm. Add 3–4 mozzarella and prosciutto cubes, seal, and shape into a cylinder. Repeat and place on a sheet tray. Coat croquettes in flour, dip in egg whites, and roll in breadcrumbs. Reshape if needed. Chill for 3 hours.
Heat oil to 160°C (320°F). Fry croquettes in batches until golden, avoiding overcrowding. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt and serve hot.
Ingredients
• 1kg pizza flour (or allpurpose if unavailable)
• 650ml sparkling water
• 10g instant dry yeast
• 20g salt
• 1 kg canned tomatoes, crushed
• 30ml EVOO
• 1 garlic clove
• Fresh basil leaves
• Oregano
• Salt and pepper
• 100g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
• Oil for frying
Instructions
Prepare the dough dissolving the yeast in sparkling water. Mix with flour and salt using a dough hook. Adjust with flour if sticky. Shape into a ball, cover, and let rise for 3–4 hours. Divide into 60g balls, place on a greased sheet, cover, and let rest for 2 hours.
Make Sauce: Sauté garlic in EVOO until golden. Add crushed tomatoes, boil, season, and simmer for 45 minutes.
Heat oil to 180°C (355°F). Flatten dough balls, puncture with a fork, and fry until golden. Drain, top with sauce, oregano, basil, and Parmigiano.
Pizzelle Fritte
Crocché di Patate
Giovanna Alonzi
Ingredients
• 1.2 kg Spanish or Moroccan octopus
• ½ cup EVOO
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 fresh chili, roughly chopped
• 300g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 900g canned plum tomatoes, crushed by hand
• 2tbsp capers
• 50 g Gaeta olives
• 1 small bunch parsley, roughly chopped
• Sea salt and ground black pepper
Instructions
Prepare the Octopus or ask your fishmonger to do this for you. Heat olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Fry garlic until golden. Add chili and cherry tomatoes, cooking for 5 minutes. Add plum tomatoes, capers, olives, parsley, and octopus to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat, cover, and simmer for 50 minutes, until octopus is tender. Turn off heat and let rest in the sauce, covered, for 1 hour. Enjoy the octopus on its own or toss with pasta like calamarata or spaghettoni. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.
Ingredients
• 750g bread flour
• 20g yeast
• 160g lukewarm water
• Zest of 1 orange
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 10g malt
• 12 eggs
• 200g soft butter
• 50g sugar
• 25g salt
• 1L water
• 930 g sugar
• 1 orange peel
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 star anise
• 165ml rum flavor
Instructions
Mix 250g flour, 20g yeast, and 160g water into a firm dough. Submerge in cold water; it's ready when it floats.
In a mixer combine 500g flour, malt, eggs, and citrus zest. Add starter dough, then alternate adding the flour and egg mixtures until combined. Mix in butter, sugar, and salt until smooth. Transfer dough to an oiled container and let rise. Divide into 15g balls and place in oiled molds. Let rise until dough is just above the molds' lip. Make syrup by boiling water, sugar, orange peel, cinnamon, vanilla, and star anise. Remove from heat, stir in rum flavour, and cool.
Bake the dough at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes, turning halfway. Cool completely.
Soak cooled babà in rum syrup. Serve and enjoy!
Babà
Polpo alla Luciana
VINO DELLA CAMPANIA
Exploring the Timeless Wines of Aglianico del Taburno and Fiano di Avellino
The cultivation of grapes in Campania dates back to before the 12th century B.C. When the Etruscans and Greeks began to settle in Campania, they found that the populations there were already cultivating vines: all they needed to do was improve the cultivation techniques and the practices in the cellar. The outcome of the upgrade was a range of valuable and renowned vines for centuries to come, so much so that in the Roman era the wines from Campania made their way to the tables of patricians and senators.
With the decline of the Roman Empire and the beginning of the Middle Ages, farming in Campania and the other regions in Italy began a profound crisis, continuing until the 10th century.
Campania today is prosperous, a destination for many connoisseurs, or just enthusiasts. The splendid islands and the surrounding areas of Mount Vesuvius, but especially nearby Avellino and Benevento, have the most prized vineyards. The main factors that con-
tribute to the proliferation of the grapevine throughout Campania include the excellent sun exposure, the soil composition, and the abundant, but never excessive, fall and winter rainfall.
The geographical partition in this region is 14.7% plains, 34.5% mountains, and 50.8% hills. Vineyards are found mostly throughout the hills and the lower slopes of mountains up to 800 meters above sea level. Campania is also a land of volcanoes: the still active Mount Vesuvius, on the Gulf of Naples, and the inactive Roccamonfina volcano in Caserta. There are also areas without volcanoes that have highly concentrated volcanic soil – the Mount Epomeo horst in Ischia Island; Mount Taburno in Benevento; the geothermal Solfatara crater in Pozzuoli and the east area of Irpinia, with the higher concentrations of volcanic soil surrounding the town of Avellino.
Along the coastal strip of Campania, the temperatures are mild all year round, with relatively cool, dry
Andrea Tonicello VINO DELLA CAMPANIA
summers, which is perfect for the cultivation of different crops. The more you move inland, the more the weather changes to a continental climate, with warmer summers and colder winters.
Campania has a myriad of native grape varieties and it is also the Italian region that grows the least amount of international varieties. Starting with the ‘undisputed king’, the red grape varieties are Aglianico followed by Casavecchia, Pallagrello Nero, Piedirosso, and Sciascinoso. The whites include Asprinio, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe, Greco, Falanghina, Fiano, Forastera and Pallagrello Bianco, and more that are even lesser known.
Campania has 4 D.O.C.G. wines (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita): Aglianico del Taburno, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, and Taurasi.
15 D.O.C. wines (Denominazione di Origine Controllata): Aversa, Campi Flegrei, Capri, Casavecchia di Pontelatone, Castel San Lorenzo, Cilento, Costa d’Amalfi, Falanghina del Sannio, Falerno del Massico, Galluccio, Irpinia, Ischia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, and Vesuvio.
10 I.G.T. wines (Indicazione Geografica Tipica): Benevento, Campania, Catalanesca del Monte Somma, Colli di Salerno, Dugenta, Epomeo, Paestum, Pompeiano, Roccamonfina, and Terre del Volturno.
2022 Forastera Ischia DOC, Casa d'Ambra
Made with 100% Forastera. Straw yellow with golden reflections, offering aromas of orchard fruit, honeydew melon, and apple. Broom flowers and aromatic herbs are also present in the background. This mediumbodied white is dry and persistent on the palate, with a smooth and creamy texture. Pairing: fish soup, octopus, medium-aged cheese, and white meat.
Made with 100% Aglianico. Deep ruby, it offers a mix of dark and red fruits, withered flowers, fresh oregano, smoked meat, black pepper, clove, and a slightly earthy background. This is a full-bodied wine with austere yet fully ripe and integrated tannins. It boasts excellent acidity and minerality. Pairing: red stewed meat, game, and ragu’ alla Napoletana.
2022 Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Ciro Picariello
Made with 100% Fiano. Straw-yellow with a greenish hue, the nose is floral and citrusy, with notes of sage, marjoram, and whiffs of flint. On the palate, you get ‘crunchy’ green-apple acidity, medium-plus body, and great minerality. A complex wine with a flavourful and lingering finish. Pairing: white meat, and seafood dishes, such as fish soup, fried fish, crustaceans, and steamed mussels.
Wines are available by the glass at Terroni, Sud Forno & Spaccio locations and by the bottle at our bottle shops.
Shop by the case online at cavinona.com
2016 Vigne d’Alto Taurasi DOC, Cantine Lonardo
KITON TRADITIONAL ITALIAN TAILORING
Napoletano tailoring is poetry. Unlike their militaryinspired Savile row counterparts from which it originated, the Napoletano suit is cut and designed for leisure. It is all about a natural, fitted style without lining or padding so it feels “As light as the winds over Vesuvius”. These were suits made for men proud not to have to work - nonchalant, comfortable and the embodiment of Sprezzatura. Don’t let this fool you however, these garments are made with the same exacting skill and impeccable quality as you might find on Savile Row.
Kiton is no exception. Based in Napoli and built on a desire to create timeless, elegant pieces that surpass trends, Kiton’s founder, Ciro Paone, emphasised people, tradition and time “because all great things come from a combination of these three”. The name Kiton (Key-ton) comes from the tunic worn in Ancient Greece during prayer, the khitōn - an apt name for a brand to whom tailoring takes on an almost religious zeal. Each suit is handcrafted from the highest-quality fabric ranging from wool milled exclusively for the
brand, to cashmere, to Vicuna, the rarest yarn in the world, sourced from Andean camels and prized for its softness, warmth, lightness and durability. The pinnacle of Kiton’s ultra-lux tailoring is the K50 suit. Made from the aforementioned Vicuna wool, each suit takes 50 hours to make by hand. The brand makes only 50 per year and there are only 5 tailors qualified to make them. Sotheby’s Dubai estimates a Kiton K50 will set the buyer back $1 million.
While Kiton undoubtedly caters to the 1% of the 1%, the brand has also found a way to preserve this uniquely Napoletano tradition with its tailoring school. Ciro Paone prided himself on being a tailor first. He came from a family of 5 generations of Italian fabric merchants and established a small production of tailored pieces in 1956 under the CiPa label (based on his initials). This was later rebranded to Kiton in 1968. In 2000, Paone founded The School of High-Level Tailoring with the mission to “protect traditions and ensure the continuity of sartorial art in the world.”
The free 3-year haute couture course is built around
Ciro Paone the past, present and future of Sartoria Napoletana
the idea that tailoring as a vocation is more than anything else, an art. The first two years a spent simply learning to make the perfect jacket. The third is spent focusing on a single skill, becoming master of that stage of the production process. The best of the best are then offered a 3-year apprenticeship with Kiton. More than just a feeder for the brand, it is a way to preserve the tradition and art behind Napoletano tailoring. Applicants from Naples are given preferential admittance to promote employment within the city and to continue Napoli’s reputation for weaving magic into the seams of suits.
Ciro Paone passed away in 2021 but not before being honoured with an exhibition entitled “Two or Three Things I Know About Ciro,” curated by fashion journalist Angelo Flaccavento. The exhibit unfolded over 6-rooms, each dedicated to a different aspect of Paone’s passions - Napoli, Tailoring, Wearing, Quality and, Family. The exhibition dubbed Paone “the patron saint of Neapolitan tailoring, in the sense that he gathered all of the tailors in the Naples area and created this whole myth; it was an art in danger of disappearing completely.”
Top and Bottom Left: Kiton's tailoring school in Napoli (Photos by Gianluca Di Ioia). Middle: Portrait of the founder of Kiton, Ciro Paone Bottom right: Kiton's boutique
WE LOVE CAFF È SOSPESO
Coffee in Naples is more than a drink—it's a symbol of community, compassion, and shared humanity
Coffee is a big part of the Napoletano identity. It was introduced in 18th century, but it was in 1819 that a device named the Cuccumella was introduced and fast became a staple in every household. This forerunner to the modern mocha pot created a dark, rich espresso that had a creamy texture and a strong, slightly sweet flavour. Coffee made with a Cuccumella earned the reputation of being the best coffee in Italy. Ever since then Caffè has gained more and more meaning in the life of each Neapolitan, it is a ritual, it is what you look forward to when you have a break, it is what you get offered as you step foot in anyone’s home. It’s a way of making you feel welcome and catered for.
Caffè plays such a big role in a Napoletano’s life that this is prob-
ably why the tradition of caffè sospeso, that we love so dearly, came about after WWII when the residents of Naples were struggling with the decimation of the Italian economy. Those who could afford it would purchase and pay for an extra cup of espresso at the local café so that, when needed, the barista could discreetly offer it to a less fortunate person, with little fuss, thus allowing him/her to accept this simple act of love with dignity.
During Covid, when once again the simple luxury of a cup of coffee, as well as the purchase of basic necessities exceeded the reach of many Neapolitans, the tradition of caffè sospeso evolved. Those who were able to work began leaving ‘sospeso’ pizza, sospeso groceries and even sospeso books following the same method of caffè sospeso sharing a small token of hope with those who needed it most. One pizzeria even continues to deliver phone-in orders to those in need so that they don’t have to face the shame of ad-
mitting they could not afford to pay for the food.
Even as the world changes and the tradition continues to evolve, Caffé Sospeso stands as a testament to Napoli’s compassion and sense of community. It symbolizes the generosity ingrained in the city’s culture and reminds us all of the impact of a simple act of love.
Bottom: The big cuccumella at the Caffè Gambrinus in Napoli where people can leave the receipt of a paid suspended coffee.
Elena Di Maria
CIRO PIPOLI PHOTOGRAPHY
Born between the Vesuvius and the sea
Naples is a city of contrasts—chaotic yet serene, ancient yet vibrant, poor yet rich—and no one captures its spirit quite like Ciro Pipoli. Born and raised in the heart of Napoli, Pipoli is a compelling storyteller, blending raw emotion with a poetic eye for detail. His newly released book, Voci di Napoli (Voices of Naples), is a love letter to his hometown, showcasing his unique style and deep connection to the city and its people.
“The faces of Naples tell its story,” Pipoli explains, “Every line, every expression is a chapter in the city’s history.” His portraits, raw, unposed and often taken in natural light, feel deeply intimate, as if the subjects are whispering their stories directly to the viewer. His mastery of light and shadow evokes the chiaroscuro of Caravaggio, while his candid compositions echo the spontaneity of Henri Cartier-Bresson, evident in his photo that we placed as our cover image and the images on these pages.
Pipoli’s journey began in the narrow, sun-dappled alleyways of Quartieri Spagnoli. He started photograph-
ing the city’s life and its inhabitants as a teenager, using a borrowed film camera. Over the years, his talent earned him international recognition, but his work has always remained rooted in his origins. Pipoli’s photographs are instantly recognisable for their cinematic quality and emotive storytelling.
The people of Naples are at the heart of Pipoli’s work. From weathered fishermen by the docks to children playing in cobblestone streets and the city's residents enjoying the warm sea waters, his images capture the resilience, warmth, and complexity of Neapolitan life. In Voci di Napoli, Pipoli pairs these portraits with evocative scenes of Naples’ markets, chapels, and piazzas. Each image is accompanied by anecdotes or quotes, bringing the city’s vibrant characters to life. With this book, Pipoli cements his status as a visual poet, offering the world an unparalleled glimpse into the beating heart of Napoli and its people.
We encourage you to visit his instagram page @ciropipoli or ciropipoli.com
Giovanna Alonzi
SPAGHETTI ALLA PUTTANESCA
RECIPE SPONSORED BY
Ingredients:
• 400g of spaghetti
• 500g crushed tomatoes
• 60ml of Terroni extra virgin olive oil
• 5 anchovy fillets
• 45g of capers
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 chili pepper
• 90g of black olives
• salt & pepper
• parsley
Method:
In a large pan fry garlic clove over medium heat. Lower heat, add anchovies and melt them in oil using a wooden spoon. Add the capers, olives, chili, tomato and reduce the sauce. Cook the spaghetti very al dente, add to the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes longer. Sprinkle roughly chopped parsley and serve.
TERRONI NEWS IS GOOD NEWS
From the time of writing, 11,690 days have passed since the very first Terroni opened on Queen Street West. There are days where that number feels like yesterday and days where it feels like a lifetime ago. To Cosimo and Elena, it shows how far they’ve come. Today, tomorrow and every day after, the family keeps growing and the mission to share a true Italian experience in North America sees no end in sight. When we moved to our new office beside Terroni Sterling and Cosimo hung the Terroni timeline artwork in his office, we already knew we would need to make space for part 2. And so the story continues and the dream remains very much alive. As a true testament to our longevity, we know our values will continue to guide us for the next 11,690 days and counting. Salute to what has been built, what has stood the test of time and for what is to come.
Terroni Sterling
Twelve years after the last Terroni location opened in Toronto, we introduced Terroni Sterling in 2023. Following the successful launch of our second Spaccio commissary, Spaccio West, Terroni Sterling shares the same location at 128 Sterling Road. This hybrid Ter-
roni-Spaccio venue retains the grocer and café, while introducing the full-service Terroni dining experience.
La Bettola LA
La Bettola di Terroni, originally located in Toronto's financial district, is now open in Larchmont Village, Los Angeles. While maintaining the essence of Terroni, the menu at La Bettola changes more frequently and is curated by our Head Chef, Costantino Guzzo.
Terroni Queen Renos
Starting as a storefront selling imported Italian pantry staples with only a handful of seats, our first-ever location, Terroni Queen, has completed its much-deserved facelift, elevating both the look and function of this neighbourhood favourite while still retaining its warm and inviting character.
Coming Soon
So what’s next? Terroni is heading to Brentwood Los Angeles with an opening planned for Spring 2025. This time however, we’re bringing a friend - Forno Terroni, our first bakery in the USA is set to open next door.
@parkdalefoodbank A huge thank you to @sudforno for 'dough-nating' these delicious pizza slices last week!
@twinstalktaste Our last Toronto eats post is from @stocktc, eh? We loved the vibes of this restaurant, super trendy and chic with great food.
@lunchinwithluce Good food + coffee @sudforno
@jasperinthe6ix Gelato & cappuccino for my mom at one of my spots in the east end @spaccio_to
@sketchedbysutton A favourite corner for Toronto coffee lovers.
@sudforno Teaching them young!
@spaccio_to A story and a friendship that goes back many years, a relationship rooted in the same values of love for raw materials and work ethic.
