T Magazine No. 11

1 ISSUE Nº11

LAZIO

the History of Rome covered by Jessie Allen from the Social from Cassino to Hollywood, the story of Andrea Iervolino, a young Italian producer now internationally acclaimed read how Fendi, Tod's and others found a new and exciting way to give back by investing in culture Artigiani of yesterday and today: It's a matter of know-how

CUCINA LAZIALE

restaurant Da Enzo Al 29 simplicity at its finest + oenologist Riccardo Cotarella on wine

ISSUE 11

T MAGAZINE

PUBLISHER

Elena Di Maria EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Robby Vrenozi PHOTOGRAPHY

Stephanie Palmer (Toronto) GUEST PHOTOGRAPHY

Federico Guida (Milan) COPY EDITOR

Amy Cormier David Morin DESIGN

small MANY THANKS TO

Andrea Iervolino Anabella Alexander Loredana Tartaglia Riccardo Cotarella Karina Watsone INQUIRIES & ADVERTISING

Robby Vrenozi robby@terroni.com COVER PHOTO BY

Stephanie Palmer T MAGAZINE HEADQUATERS

510 Front Street West Suite 300, M5V 1B8 INSTAGRAM

@TerroniMagazine @TerroniTO @TerroniLA @SudForno

LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER TIME GOES BY SO QUICKLY. While I feel like we launched issue 1 only yesterday, here we are putting issue 11 to bed. Thinking about the concept of time helped me choose the region for this issue: Lazio, an area where time has left an indelible mark. Rome alone could fill all the pages in this magazine so I challenged my friend, Terroni Magazine’s contributor and star guest journalist Jessie Allen to condense Rome and over 2,000 years of its history into two pages.

No small feat! I’m sure you will enjoy this very entertaining yet informative piece.

I couldn’t write about this central region of Italy without highlighting Cinecittà and the history of Italian Cinema, and I also had the pleasure of sitting down with Toronto based film producer Andrea Iervolino. In our interview, you will learn about this young man’s inspiring journey.

Lazio manufacturing sector has players big and small that deserve recognition. Many high-end brands, such as Fendi, inspire me in the ways that they give back—paying it forward to Italy through many amazing endeavors such as preserving historical sites throughout the country. Lazio is also home to some of the most amazing artisans with local and international distribution. Here, we touch on both.

As always, the local artisans move my soul with their creativity, skills and resilience.

Naturally, we must mention wine and food when covering Lazio.

We were lucky enough to exchange a few words with the worldrenowned enologist Riccardo Cotarella, who also happens to look after Carvinea, my very own family vineyard in Puglia. When it came to food in this region, we got inspired by the amazing recipes of Roman restaurant “Da Enzo al 29” in Trastevere, Rome.

Terroni Toronto & Los Angeles

Every time we complete an issue of Terroni magazine, a bit of nostalgia washes over me as I miss and long for the beauty of Italy—beauty now largely overlooked by its people who are facing hard times. It brings me such pleasure, in my own small way, to be able to shine a light on Italy’s strength rather than its weakness.

printed in Canada

Sharing the love,

FACEBOOK

Ele

2

ISSUE 11

CONTRIBUTORS Elisabetta Di Maria lives in Milan, where she writes short stories and creates custom jewellery in silver and bronze. A graduate of modern literature, she has collaborated with several current-event newspapers as well as interior design magazines. She has a passion for Italian literature and designer objects, particularly vintage. Elisabetta is also a certified sommelier with AIS (Italian Association of Sommeliers).

Neó, p 6

Giovanni Romanelli was born Abruzzo Italy, and always dreamt of moving to Canada. In 2013 his dream came true and he joined the Sud Forno, Terroni family.

A lover of food wine and craft beer, Giovanni was a successful live music bar owner in Italy before moving to Toronto.

Today he manages the Terroni distribution Center.

Papa Francesco, p 34

Francesco Laudini is originally from Sicily, he is a graduate of Gastronomic Sciences University.

He worked for Slow Food International and brought his passion and knowledge for food to the Terroni family over 5 years ago. Today he is the GM for Terroni on Price St. Francesco still has a piece of himself in Sicily with the ownership of his beautiful vineyard.

Ricardo Cotarella, p 31

Max Stefanelli is director of operations for Terroni Los Angeles and wine director at all Terroni outposts.

Max began working for Terroni in 1999. When he isn’t tasting the bottled fruits of Italy, Max can be found playing ball hockey, zipping around on his Vespa, or cooking at home with his beautiful wife and their three gorgeous bambini.

Lazio Wine, p 29

Andrea Natarelli was born in Lombardia and raised in Abruzzo.

Andrea was with the Terroni family for over three years and today is travelling exploring Canada.

Whenever Andrea is not working he follows his other passions: surfing, snowboarding and Juventus.

When in Lazio, p 20

Jessie Allen is the digital correspondent on CTV's The Social and the brains behind the popular blog Foodie and the Beast. She is also a former assistant editor at Maclean’s magazine, national columnist for Metro, and, most importantly, a dishwasher at Terroni. Everything you see, she owes to pizza (OK and pasta). Roman History, p 18

Robby Vrenozi has been a part of the Terroni Marketing team for the past year; she absolutely loves the gang, her job and most of all Elena.

National Pride, p 32

Stephanie Palmer is the general manager of Terroni Adelaide and La Bettola di Terroni. "My passion for pasta is only eclipsed by my love of photography". Follow her on Instagram @stephaniempalmer Stirata Romana, p 36

Giovanna Alonzi “Food is my life and my life is food.

Anyone who does not understand this is not worthy of pizza.”

Lazio Cuisine p 24

3

Jessica Allen

9 Width in meters of the circular opening crowning the Pantheon, ancient Rome’s best-preserved structure 6 Of the dove’s wing span in the window above the throne in St. Peter’s 822 Number of films made in Italy between 1945 and 1953

220 Number of Italian films exported to America between 1951-55 1506 Year that the Vatican City’s Swiss Guard, whose uniforms are said to have been designed

by Michelangelo, was founded 1937 Year that Benito Mussolini founded the Italian film studio Cinecitta

TERRONI INDEX

1 million Population of Rome at the height of Emperor Augustus’ rule

300,000 In Bernini’s Piazza San Pietro

20,000 Number of daily visitors to the 40 million Of the entire empire Sistine Chapel at its height 4 Number of years it 2.87 million took Michelangelo Population of to paint the ceiling Rome today 1,000 Of Vatican City 50,000 Number of spectators the Colosseum could hold

16.9 million Number of cases of wine the region of Lazio produces annually 113 million That Veneto, the most prolific region, produces

3,000 Amount of euros thrown into the Trevi Fountain each day 80 million Number of copies sold of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vinci Code over 5 billion Of The Bible 5 Number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Lazio 563 Length in kilometres of the Appian Way, completed in 312 BC that stretched from the Roman Forum to Brindisi 828 Of the King’s Highway 401

LAZIO

ART I SA N S O F Y EST E RDAY & TO DAY

Italy has long been home to artisans who have handcrafted a wide range of quality products. In fact, the beauty of Italian craftsmanship has been known and appreciated around the world for centuries.

Throughout the industrialization of the 19th and 20th centuries, Italy maintained a reputation of quality production thanks to the work of its artisans. Yet, in these tough economic times, mass production seems to be threatening the existence of artisans in a way that we have not seen before. We believe that it is essential to keep in mind the beauty of Italian handcrafted goods and the role that quality production plays in the Italian identity.

The times have changed and so must we. Some of our featured artisans have changed, improving their sales and distribution through technology while maintaining their traditional methods of production. Unfortunately, some of the smaller artisans do not have the staff, time or knowledge to access technology and they struggle to move forward with the times.

Ultimately, we as consumers have to make the biggest changes. Instead of throwing out that beautiful old chair and replacing it with something mass-produced, why not have it repaired by a skilled artisan?

Not only will you have a beautiful, quality chair, you will have helped to preserve our Italian soul.

NEOPRENE

AN INDUSTRIAL MATERIAL TURNED INTO A PIECE OF DESIGN

Elisabetta di Maria

7

Everything started by chance in 2007. Rosanna Contadini had worked as a pottery maker, but she had been searching for something new to inspire her and provide her with an opportunity to create objects in versatile forms and uses.

While browsing through a hardware store, Rosanna came across a string of neoprene—a pliable material that is pleasant to the touch. While playing with the material in her hands, she wondered if she could knit with it in the same manner that people worked with yarn. Rosanna tried knitting purses with this fabric and she was struck by how malleable and strong a material it was. Soft, smooth and with the added benefit of being perfectly mouldable, neoprene was easily worked into any variety of forms and shapes. Once Rosanna began working with neoprene, she wanted to seek out the finest quality available on the market.

She discarded the bolts coming in from outside of Italy because they weren't colour resistant or mouldable.

Eventually, she found a high quality Italian product.

She began producing purses with tightly knit neoprene threads, adorned with woven decorative yarns or loosely knitted braids. The bags were an instant hit, thanks to their originality, softness, and practicality.

Spurred on by the versatility of the material that is NEÓ BY ROSANNA CONTADINI

AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

completely impermeable and resistant to hot and cold, Rosanna began to create mats for the bath and the outdoors. In order to keep up with the demand, Rosanna hired several women to knit, weave, crochet and hand braid the neoprene from their homes according to her instructions and designs. Soon, Neò was born. Today Rosanna’s company employs a dozen staff and produces a wide variety of products. The shapes Rosanna finds in nature often fuel her imagination. She is inspired to create winding, sinuous necklaces, bracelets that resemble underwater sea plants and earrings that evoke little branches and flowers. To complete these designs, the neoprene is knit with pearls, cotton thread and leather inserts. In a short time, Neò has achieved such resounding success that their products can now be found in stores throughout the world. Rosanna’s strong intuition and creative touch has made it possible to give the ancient, feminine arts of knitting, weaving and crocheting an inspired twist. Her contemporary designs and ultra-modern industrial material, worked by hand with traditional techniques, have created an amazing union between innovation and ancient skills that is 100% Italian!

Visit rosannaneodesign.com

8

Elena & Robby

photos Federico Guida

SIRNI PELLETTERIA

Sirni Pelletteria has been handcrafting leather bags and accessories since the 1950’s when Antonio and his wife Rosanna first opened their store. After Antonio passed away, their children Andrea and Rita joined forces with their mother to run the business. Today, Rita and Rosanna are the creative minds behind the design of the bags, Andrea turns the designs into reality, and Rosanna adds the finishing touches.

The beauty of these bags is due, in a large part, to the high quality of the leathers that are carefully chosen from Italian tanneries that continue the ancient trade of tanning leather. The materials they use include buffalo, calf, deer, suede, nappa and fine leathers like crocodile, python and ostrich. For Rita and Andrea it is extremely important to source leathers made in Italy, which has become increasingly difficult, as many

tanneries are disappearing, making it harder for Sirni to find exactly what they are looking for.

With just one retail location, in the dead center of Rome which also serves as their workshop, Sirni welcomes customers from all over the world. At Sirni you can custom make your own bag, bringing in your own design and choosing your favourite leather. Sirni stipulates one condition - they will not reproduce other brand’s designs. By only using quality materials and by paying attention to detail, these skilled artisans create timeless fashion pieces. When we asked them to tell us something about Artigianato they responded, “As an artisan you are unlikely to become a millionaire, but quality sells”.

To buy your own Sirni bag visit sirnipelletteria.it

9

With his lathe, he details small pieces of wood, turning an ordinary object into a unique, sophisticated piece of art. Pietro is a true artisan and the keeper of an ancient trade that is dying out. His shop has been in Via Dei Salumi, in Trastevere, Rome since 1958 when his grandfather first opened it. Pietro fondly recalls when the street was populated with all sorts of artisans, but today he is the last one.

Pietro’s trade is the victim of industrialization, consumerism, globalization and a disposable mentality.

Hand crafted objects are no longer valued. Instead, people opt for things that are mass produced and cheaper. Needless to say, Pietro’s business has suffered and he has been able to maintain his shop and his passion only with the help of his wife who returned to work.

Pietro grew up watching his father and grandfather working the lathe. He knew it was also his calling, so he quit school to work alongside them. Today,

AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

he collaborates with other artisans, providing small details required for their bigger projects—whether it is something as simple as a knob on a chair leg, dresser or pulpit, a missing piece of a musical instrument or the finishing touches of a church goblet.

The Roman Church is one of Pietro’s biggest customers, but most of his clients find him through word of mouth. Pietro acknowledges that an online presence would be of great help for his business, but he does not have the knowledge to create or maintain such a system. His children are both university graduates and he couldn’t be more proud—even though he is melancholic that a trade like his has no future. We were very inspired by Pietro’s humanity. His passionate and lively personality is beautiful. He holds family values above all else and proudly told us that, to this day, his whole family meets every Friday to have lunch together.

Via dei Salumi, 10, 00153 Roma

PIETRO THE WOOD TURNER

RBC Dominion Securities Inc.

Dreaming of retiring in italy?

There’s wealth in a guide who can help you get there.

If il bel paese is calling you, turn to Canada’s leading wealth management firm. You’ll receive advice from Giancarlo Totino, a professional advisor with more than 15 years of experience at RBC Dominion Securities. Giancarlo specializes in providing comprehensive and tax-efficient solutions, including financial planning, Will and estate reviews, and conservative investment portfolios tailored to your needs.

For a free consultation, or a second opinion on your investments, contact Giancarlo Totino today.

Giancarlo ToTino Vice-President, Investment Advisor 416-842-3475 | giancarlo.totino@rbc.com RBC Dominion Securities 181 Bay St., Suite 2200 | Toronto, Ontario

RBC Dominion Securities Inc.* and Royal Bank of Canada are separate corporate entities which are affiliated. *Member-Canadian Investor Protection Fund. RBC Dominion Securities Inc. is a member company of RBC Wealth Management, a business segment of Royal Bank of Canada. ®Registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under licence. © RBC Dominion Securities Inc. 2016. All rights reserved. 16_90421_J8G_001

ANDREA IERVOLINO — A PEEK INTO HIS LIFE

Andrea Lervolino, a Toronto based Italian film producer from Rome, is the co-founder of AMBI group with Lady Monika Bacardi. At 29, he is one of Italy’s youngest and most accomplished producers, counting The Merchant Of Venice, In Dubious Battles, and All Roads Lead To Rome among his productions.

Elena di Maria Andrea Iervolino, who are you?

Andrea Iervolino I am a very sensitive 29-year-old guy, lover of life, people, and the simple things. As a child I was an outcast.

I struggled with stuttering and shyness to such an extent that my teacher advised my mom to transfer me to a different school for children with disabilities. My mother knew that I was different but capable of staying in a regular school. These challenges, paired with a difficult upbringing, did not diminish the determination to pursue my dream: making movies and becoming a successful film producer. Since I was 13, whenever I would think of something that I wanted to happen, it would manifest into reality.

Today, I am the global Ambassador of Cinema, twice nominated as "Best Dealmaker of the Year" by Variety magazine and awarded “Best Producer” along with Al Pacino and Barry Levinson in 2014, and again in 2016 with James Franco by the Venice Film Festival.

I have many goals and I hope to succeed.

Today, I enjoy what cinema provides me and what I have to offer to the industry. I hope the wind will be at my back and I continue to have the enthusiasm and audacity to keep working in this wonderful business.

Elena & Robby

What is AMBI? AMBI is a vertically integrated group that finances, produces and distributes medium and high budget films. We have offices around the world and studios here in Toronto that specialize in animation, postproduction and VFX. With our Italian origins we chose Italy as our principal location for our movies, exploiting the beauty of the country.

Tell us a bit about your Canadian connection.

Growing up, I knew that my mother was born in Scarborough, and that my grandparents moved here from Italy after the war. Recently I found out that my grandparents were unable to have children and that my mother was adopted. Because my grandparents didn’t have the opportunity of education, they thought her biological parents could come and take my mom from them, so they moved back to Cervaro, Italy 7 months after receiving her. Because of my Canadian heritage I always had an attraction to this country and knew I would eventually end up here.

Was it your Canadian heritage that made you choose to work here?

I was always intrigued by Canada and when I was 6 years old, I came up with my very own first job selling what I coined the “Canadian Brioche”—which were actually packages of brioche my mother would purchase for 1,000 lire at a discount supermarket. The brioche were so large and not the best quality, so when my friends, accustomed to the higher brand snacks, asked why mine were so different, I proudly responded that mine were Canadian!

I sold them for 500 lire each, and by the afternoon, I would have enough money to buy myself a sandwich and a soccer ball to play with.

I find it funny that my first “business” had something to do with Canada. When it comes to choosing to work here, I believe all choices are motivated by love. I guess the answer is I am in Canada because of love.

I have offices in Los Angeles and I could have offices pretty much anywhere and, while I travel a lot now, my intention is to stay in Canada as much as possible for the rest of my life. I think it may be my love for my mother that pulls me here. Everything that I value comes from my mother. She is my guidepost—like a lighthouse she shows me the way. While my mother may not be able to provide me with technical advice, spiritually she is the one who shepherds me.

12 How did your journey start?

At 16 I thought I found the love of my life but sadly, she left me. My father, who is a kind man today, was battling with his own personal demons at the same time as I was coping with the devastation over losing the girl. I convinced myself I didn’t want or need to be there. I left. I had no money and spent the train ride hiding in the bathroom. Benedetto, a friend who now works for AMBI Luxembourg, got me a job as an assistant to a producer in a tourist resort in Bibione, Veneto. Today I have a slight stutter, but when I was younger, it would take me hours to get out a few sentences. A few months into my new job, I noticed that my self-confidence improved along with my stuttering. I returned to finish high school with the intention of making my own movie.

I wrote my first script at the age of 16 with help from my geography teacher, copying the structure I’d learned while working in Bibione. I did everything that needed to be done to make this movie: I got the location and supplies, including horses, for some special To this day, I believe in projects effects from the ab- with strong social content. This bot of Montecassiyear at Sundance we presented no. My cameraman was a local wedding To The Bone, which explores the videographer, my sensitive subject of anorexia. actors were people I approached and convinced they looked the part. I even persuaded a school janitor that she was meant to be an actress!

Do you enjoy working with actors that are not professionals?

To this day, if I find someone who I believe would do well in the part, I ask them if they are willing to try. Often, I’m met with resistance, but in the end, most give in because who doesn’t want to be in a movie? I believe that studying for an actor is important, but I do believe that some acting skills cannot be taught. I know a great number of highly trained actors that cannot deliver the same emotions as those with little experience who are capable of moving you to tears with their performance.

How did your first movie do?

When I realized that my movie was not going to be screened in the prime time slots, with help from my brother and mother, I founded the Cine Day School Project, a cultural association that offers reduced ticket prices to schools for matinee screenings. Embraced by many because the social

13

A LOC AL ROMAN

content in the films provided teachers the opportunity to further explore various topics. To this day, I believe in projects with strong social content. This year at Sundance, we presented To The Bone, which explores the sensitive subject of anorexia.

You mentioned you were an outcast. did this make you sad or were you at peace?

When my parents argued, I would feel sad. When they weren’t arguing, I would be happy—I just adapted to the mood. Because of my stutter, I was often excluded by my peers. I spent my time in the attic of the store where my parents worked. I had no toys, so I would use my imagination, cut out paper figures creating characters to play out my own stories. I had the outlook that always saw me come out on the positive side. I knew if I wanted to hang out with my friends, I needed to bring something to the table to be included. We needed a special ball to play soccer—we referred to it as the “Super Santos” and lucky for me, the ball would puncture every other day because of the debris, so everyday I had to sell enough brioches to cover the cost of the ball. It may sound sad but I wasn’t sad. Eventually I found a true friend that I knew would stick by me. I really cherish friendship, and today most of my employees are the friends who have been with me for a long time and whom I trust.

a still from film Merchant From Venice

a still from In Dubious Battles

a still from film To The Bone.

a still from Andrea's film Beyond the Edge

Learn more about Andrea in his biographic book: Da Cassino A Hollywood

Tell us about the movie Under The Sun, starring no less than Pope Francis.

This is the first time that a pope has ever starred in a film. I received a couple of calls from people to say he wanted to make a movie with me. I believe in fate and I took this as a sign I was meant to do this.

I still couldn’t believe it, so even though I had signed on, I asked for the scenes involving the pope himself be filmed first. I think that things come to me for a reason.

I am a religious person, I am very Catholic and I believe this movie was meant for me to produce. My first movie came to fruition thanks to the help from the local church, so because the Church helped me, I am meant to help the Church now. I try my best to give back. I believe that anyone privileged enough should give back.

Faith is in me and I believe that everyone, sooner or later, has to undertake a spiritual journey. People need to believe in someone or something for the awareness of themselves and other people.

Bravo! Thank you! What a great soul!

14

Mark Venturi

CINECITTÀ

Located twenty minutes by metro from the center of Rome are the Cinecittà film studios. A cultural institution and creative capital for the emerging Italian cinema of the post-war period, Cinecittà has a storied history almost as fantastical as the films that drew the star attention there.

Cinecittà, which means Cinema City in Italian, was officially opened in April 1937 by dictator Benito Mussolini. The original ocher buildings designed by Italian modernist architect Gino Peressuti can still be seen hidden among the cypress and palm trees.

Mussolini’s intent was to create a studio system that would churn out historical and propaganda films to support his fascist regime. Fate and history, however, had other plans.

Towards the end of World War II, as the allied forces pushed the German troops further and further north and finally entered Rome in June 1944, they were quick to confiscate the studios of Cinecittà and transform them into one of the largest refugee camps in Europe.

Tens of thousands of refugees passed through the gates of Cinecittà in the years leading up to 1947.

THE HALCYON YEARS

By the early 1950s, a number of international productions—most notably Ben Hur—led to Rome being dubbed “Hollywood on the Tiber”. There would be more American productions to come in the following decades, as American producers continued to look for the best artisans at a lower cost than in the United States. Of the three thousand productions created at Cinecittà, forty-eight have received Oscars and

eighty-three have received Oscar nominations.

It was the rise of post-war Italian cinema on the international movie scene that turned Cinecittà into one of the great studios of the 1950s and 1960s. Names like Roberto Rossellini, Vittorio De Sica, Luchino Visconti, Michelangelo Antonioni, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Franco Zeffirelli, and Sergio Leone all had a part to play in its success. But it was Federico Fellini who embraced the studio more than any other director of his time.

Studio 5 was where Fellini took hold of the magic of cinema and its collaborative process, making nearly all of his productions on the lot. Winning the 1956, 1957, and 1963 Best Foreign Language Film Oscars for La Strada, La Dolce Vita, and 8 1/2 gave him widespread international recognition, furthering Cinecittà’s reputation as a moviemaking destination.

Like the films made in the post-war heyday, modern Italian cinema is diverse and rooted in the social, political, economic, and cultural factors that influence the practice and creativity of filmmakers. However, gone is the signature stylistic approach of the neorealist aesthetic and the international stature attained by Fellini, Rossellini, and De Sica. Today, television, video, filmmaking technology, and a growing self-consciousness on the part of the directors have come to shape the art of modern Italian cinema.

Pasolini’s nihilistic Salò, or the 120 days of Sodom, and his subsequent murder in 1975 can be seen as a changing of the guard in post-war Italian cinema. Salò depicts a fusion of capitalism and state authority that

photos Stephanie Palmer

15

A SHOR T S TORY ON ITALIAN CINEMA

I TA LY ' S LO O K I N G G L A S S

systematically dehumanizes and objectifies individu- directors willing to draw attention to the social, politials according to the needs of an increasingly amoral cal, and cultural reality of his times. elite. In contrast, their victims are incapable of reacting Other contemporary Italian filmmakers have atand are depicted as passive, indulgent, and duplicitous. tracted worldwide attention with individual works that have had a global impact and garnered international BACK TO THE FUTURE awards. Some of which include Bernardo Bertolucci’s From the vantage point of 2017, where political apathy Last Emperor (1987), Giuseppe Tornatore’s Cinema Parabounds and a reality TV star with no political experi- adiso (1988) and The Legend of 1900 (1998), Gabriele ence can get elected as president of the most power- Salvatores’ Mediterraneo (1991), Roberto Benigni’s Life ful country in the world, where global monopolies and is Beautiful (1997), and Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great third world poverty are on the rise, Pasolini’s vision Beauty (2013). But the film that has seems more prophetic than ever. What’s more, the prinperhaps had the most impact in recent ciples of a winner-take-all market-driven society have years, carrying on the critical tradition been fully co-opted by mainstream cinema, with the of the great post-war directors with Hollywood movie machine driven now more than ever its raw depiction of Italian society, is by a handful of mega blockbusters, heavy on computMatteo Garrone’s Gomorrah (2008). er-generated special effects and light on character and Nevertheless, it could be argued that to find the story. The Seventh Art itself has been largely reduced most modern Italian cinema one must look back—to to just another mass-marketed consumer product. the tail end of the golden years to a certain Marco The toll of this zeitgeist on Italy’s cinema appears to Ferreri. Belonging to the generation of Fellini and have been particularly high in recent decades. DirecAntonioni, and despite passing tors willing to take on the big themes of human exisaway in 1997, his films are curiously tence and to cast a critical eye on their society are few contemporary. Dillinger is Dead and far between.

(1969) and The Big Feast (1973) are There are, however, some notable exceptions—Nanni his two masterpieces, both taking Moretti being arguably the most famous one. His film a cold hard look at the alienation Ecce Bombo, which he made at the age of 25 in 1978, of people in the late 20th century set a precedent for filmmakers to come over the next consumerist West. few decades. It portrays a generation that wants to act In a world dominated by the English language and radically, but given its comfortable existence perpetu- cinema-as-commerce filmmaking, it is unlikely that ated by the family and the state has no real reason to Italian auteurs will achieve the international recognido so. In a period when Silvio Berlusconi’s control of tion and status they attained in the 1950s and 1960s. mass media and state power propagated an increas- However, compared to the rest of the non-English ingly self-serving elite, Moretti has been one of the few speaking world, they’re faring better than most.

Taste the secret of the Mediterranean diet The flavour of Olitalia Extra Virgin Olive Oil adds something special to your dishes, whether served at home or in a professional kitchen. Olitalia is the secret of those who expect excellent results and delicious dishes: a secret kept in quality ingredients, cultivated with passion for life and land.

Discover this secret with Olitalia. Our premium olive oils and vinegars are now available at fine restaurants and specialty stores across Canada.

Foodservice Importer and Distributor Reality Foods Service Inc. 905-669-1185 realityfoods@gmail.com Concord, Ontario www.olitalia.com

Retail Importer and Distributor

Brunello Imports Inc. 416-631-9773 info@brunelloimports.com Toronto, Ontario

Il condimento è il segreto

Jessie Allen presents her history of The Eternal City, from its founding to the present day, in two pages, while drinking wine. A lot of wine.

748 BC: The city of Rome is founded by either the brothers Romulus and Remus, Aeneas, or an Etruscan king.

Lupa Capitolina

400-300 BC: Rome is sacked by invading Gauls (from France), destroying all its archives (not cool). But still, they get their first aqueduct, which, using gravity, pipes in fresh water to the city. It’s a feat of engineering that some might call “a game changer,” like my empty glass and I need a refill.

600-500 BC: The last of the Etruscan kings are expelled and Rome becomes an oligarchy run by two consuls, along with a senate comprised of the city’s most powerful families. It is like Corleone stuff.

(Remember when Michael’s mom in The Godfather II says “You can never lose your family.” I love that part.)

200-100 BC: Major invaders and also major road building: Rome gave us paved roads! And more aqueducts, which means more sanitation, public baths, and latrines. They literally invented concrete. Nobody builds with concrete again until the 18th century, after the dark ages.

Hypothetical reconstruction of the Baths; engraved for The Universal Magazine of Knowledge and Pleasure Published London 1768 by John Hinton

Marcus Aurelius.

100-200: Finally, some good emperors, like Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius, come along and bring on the height of Pax Romana. The Empire is at its largest.

200-300: Rome celebrates its 1,000year anniversary and I am going to grab another bottle of wine because LET’S PARTY. More 100-0: Horace! Virgil! Livy! Also, Carpe cray-cray emperors, Diem! Latin, which was derived from both few of whom actuGreek and Phoenician scripts, is in its ally die naturally. golden heyday. You’ve heard it before so let Christianity spreads, me tell you again: the Romance languages thanks to Paul are derived from Latin, as are plenty of (the Apostle.)

English words. A “playboy” named Gaius Papal Basilica of St. Julius Caesar, who never lost a battle, Tulius Hostilius Paul outside the Walls chases and defeats everybody during some civil wars and he is the leader and starts 500-400 BC: Plebe- 300-200 BC: I’m reforming stuff, like the calendar, which ians are fed up with back! And so is the Patricians, which Rome because after we still use today. He also gave the world a very popular haircut. It’s not popular anyleads to reforms and a series of battles appointed tribunes with lots of different more. Then he’s murdered and his adopted people—I think they nephew Octavian seeks revenge and then who could yell fight with Carthage, he is named Augustus, Emperor of Rome, “Veto!” (I forbid) and makes a city of marble. when senators were like three times— they are basically passing laws. The city even has a writ- the king pin in the Western Mediterten law code. Cool. ranean. a silhouette of a what is 700-600 BC: The Forum becomes a market place and eventually the heart of ancient Rome, thanks to the swampy marshland being drained.

The Battle of Zama by Cornelis Cort, 1567

believed to be a young Caligula or Gaius

0-100: Augustus dies in 14 AD, about 15 years before Pontius Pilate orders the crucifixion of Jesus from Nazareth. Some of the emperors after him make Donald Trump look like Glinda the good witch.

I’m looking at you, Caligula, who appointed his favourite horse Incitatus a priest, not to mention Nero, who had his own mother murdered.

300-400: Emperor Constantine converts to Christianity on his deathbed, but not before moving the capital of the empire from Rome to Constantinople.

Rome splits into two empires.

400-500: Rome splits into two empires.

Oh I said that already. Moving on, the West is in deep shit trying to fight off German invaders. Attila the Hun enters Rome but does not sack it because Pope Leo I probably gave him cash money. But in 476 the Visigoths sack Rome and basically the party is over.

600-700: The Pantheon becomes a Christian church, which helps explain why it’s the best-preserved monument of Ancient Rome.

That’s all I got. Also, you should go there

OVER 2000 YEARS OF ROMAN HISTORY IN TWO PAGES

by Jessie Allen

900-1000: A Byzantine princess introduces forks to the Western Roman Empire.

1700-1800: Trevi fountain (blah), Spanish steps (blah), something about Napoleon.

1000-1100: For a chunk of time the Eastern Roman Empire is governed by Theodora and Zoe, who are women. #TakeThatPatriarchy #RoséAllDay or #RosatoAllDay #HaHaHa

1800-1900: RIP JOHN KEATS WHO DIES IN ROME BUT ELSA SCHIAPARELLI IS BORN IN ROME. Also, the Kingdom of Italy is founded.

1100-1200: pee break.

1200-1300: Why don’t they sell hot dog buns in the same number that the packages of wieners come in?

That is f**ked up.

Top: Michelangelo's Pietà, St Peter's Basilica

1500-1600: OMG! Michelangelo and Raphael and oh snap another sack: Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, basically ruins everything. But tomatoes finally arrive and shit just got real.

1600-1700: BERNINI AND CARAVAGGIO ARE IN THE HOUSE AND I AM STARVING.

Francesco Petrarca, who coined the term "Dark Ages"

500-600: It’s dark, as in literally, the dark ages. But Pope Gregory the Great does some great things, which is maybe how he got his name but don’t quote me on that.

And Justinian I—yes he’s emperor of the Eastern Roman Empire, not really Rome proper, but they considered themselves “Roman” so give me a break—ordered some scholars to write a “Body of Civil Law,” which is the basis for Western legal traditions today and think about that.

700-800: Pope Leo III asks Charlemagne to come to Rome because nobody likes Leo and he needs some help and Rome becomes part of Charlemagne’s Frankish empire.

Bernini's – Lion on the Four Rivers Fountain

1300-1400: Pope Boniface VIII says it’s the First Holy Year and it’s a big deal that brings in a lot of $$$$. But there is also the Black Death that hits Europe. History is cruel. Everything is cruel. Why are we here? Who am I?

1900-2000: Oh boy, do we have to talk about Benito? AKA Mussolini? AKA Il Duce? Depression, Fascism. WW II. Liberation. Also there is a second Vatican Council and I don’t know what the first one was about. Fellini makes some great movies in Rome.

Plus Sophia Loren.

Other stuff too.

Below: Imaginary portrait of Charlemagne, c. 1600

800-900: Pope Leo III crowns Charlemagne Holy Roman Emperor in the old St. Peter’s known as the Father of Europe because he unites Western Europe for the first time since the last time. And there is a round piece of purple marble in the floor of the new St. Peter’s and I heard this is the same piece of marble he kneeled down on that day and if I were there right now I would reenact this in an Instagram story.

Sofia Loren

2000-today: Instead of asking for a caffé in Roman coffee shops, people ask for the WiFi password. Oh god please don’t be too critical about the lack of sports history because I feel very vulnerable right now.

Remember that Rome gave us Latin, paved roads, feats in engineering, law codes, our calendar, great poetry, literature, art, and Plague doctor architecture, and they still makes gnocchi 1400-1500: Blippity on Thursdays and I love spaghetti alla blip and the papacy Carbonara and Bucatini all’Amatriciana moves to Pisa for a and Roman artichokes. Also, Trudeau got bit but comes back a tour of the Sistine Chapel and Trump got eventually to Rome. a tour of St. Peter’s: “Tremendous church,” Why? I’m not I bet he said. LOL! But seriously, here’s to a scientist. another 3,000 years. Buonanotte.

Andrea Natarelli

20

WHEN TRAVELLING TO LAZIO

PONZA

Dear Fellow Traveller I want to share some valuable wisdom about exploring Italy: the most cherished discoveries you will find will be in the least known corners of this magnificent country. What more, you will find a remarkable cultural diversity that is all proudly Italian.

It took more than ten centuries to unify the Italian territories under one flag. After the collapse of the Roman Empire, wars and foreign occupations left indelible marks on this land. For centuries, Italy was a collection of different regions, each influenced by varying political and cultural forces. Now, just for a moment, try to imagine how difficult it must have been to convince more than twenty different societies to come together under the same flag and stand for the same national anthem. It sounds like a utopian dream, but, despite every obstacle, in 1861 Italy was born. Yet, long after unification, profound cultural diversity is still clearly evident in every region. The region of Lazio is a perfect place to seek out this diversity. Located between the Appennini Mountains and the Thyrrenian Sea, Lazio is often overshadowed by its famous capital, yet many beautiful and unique towns lie beyond Rome’s ancient walls.

As you head south, following Via Appia, the longest stretch of straight road in Europe, you discover a little town called Terracina. Famous for its typical Mediterranean vegetation, Terracina is very rich in history, having served as a strategic position between Rome and Naples during times of war. This town has always been an important destination for travellers—both ancient Roman writer Horatio and German philosopher Goethe were known to have visited. You

can hike up Mount Circeo, overlooking the city from the north, and travel the same path Ulysses was alleged to have discovered during the Odyssey when he was fooled by a witch named Circe. When you reach the peak, you can admire the grandeur of Zeus’s temple and also take in the view of the Pontian islands, which are a popular summer destination for Romans.

Ponza, the largest of the islands, is renowned for its Mediterranean architecture and for its ancient community of fishermen. Housing a cluster of caves and tunnels dug in the rock, the island is also known for its seafood cuisine.

Back on mainland, half way between Rome and Florence close to the Tuscan border, you’ll find Bolsena, an ancient village founded a few centuries before Christ.

Bolsena, which shares its name with the volcanic lake it sits on, historically took great advantage of its geographic position, where the proximity to the lake and the favourable weather conditions allowed this community of farmers and fisherman to flourish and develop. Despite signs of the Roman and Etruscan influences over the centuries, the town saw its fastest development during the Middle Ages, which is still evident in some parts of the old centre of the village. Initially, the “Monaldeschi della Cervara” family, and later the Vatican state, represented the biggest contributors to the local architecture with fortress “Rocca Monaldeschi” and the Catholic Church of Santa Cristina respectively. Over the centuries not much has changed, the village remains untouched and immune to globalization and modernity.

The spectacular scenery, on top of the aforementioned reasons, explains why tourists populate the streets of Bolsena each year—enjoying the tranquility

21

WHEN IN L AZIO

CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO (G.SCARAMUCCHI) CALCATA FESTIVAL (V. GALLI)

of the country side, the taste of its wine and the flavours of its local cuisine particularly famous for Sbroscia, a soup made with fresh fish from the lake.

Moving a little farther East you come to Civita di Bagnoregio, a small village of a few thousand people, perched on a mountain peak where on foggy days it seems as if it’s reaching through the clouds to find its way to the sunnier sky. Bagnoregio was founded by the Etruscans a few centuries before Christ. Its inaccessible position, which served as a natural defense against any conqueror for centuries, is now a threat to the longevity of this village. “Every winter could be our last,” protest the villagers. Environmental changes like floods and earthquakes could now transform this medieval treasure into yet another ghost town.

A similar fate threatened the village of Calcata which, after being declared geologically unsafe by the government, saw its own citizens abandon the historical centre to settle in the nearby area called “Calcata Nuova”.

In recent years, the emptied heart of Calcata curiously began to be repopulated by a unique species of newcomers—hippies and artists who have built a new community, one that embodies the medieval character and tradition combined with an alternative-modern lifestyle light years away from what comes to mind in today’s “modern society”.

Located in the wilderness of the Appenine forest, Calacata is a festival of art, history and good food that welcomes travellers willing to experience the real essence of Italy. In March 2017 Calcata hosted its first “Hippie Festival”.

Every year in October, the city hosts a four-day festival featuring local artists, craftsmen and young

designers accompanied by live acts showcasing music, plays and street performances.

I could go on for hours and hours describing the hidden beauties of Lazio but as an old Italian proverb says: “tutte le strade portano a Roma” (all roads lead to Rome) and so does ours.

Rome is one of the few places in the world, perhaps the only one, that you could return to a hundred times and still find something new to study and admire.

Of course, we all know the majesty of the Coliseum, the magnificence of the “Altare della Patria”, or the incomparable artistic uniqueness of the Sistine Chapel but, as previously mentioned, the Eternal City has the ability to continually delight your senses every way you turn.

Palazzo Colonna for instance, one of the oldest and largest private palaces of Rome, offers visitors one of the most magnificent records of Baroque Art in the heart of the city. Among the artists exhibited in the “Galleria Colonna” designed by Bernini, Fontana and Paolo Schor, we can find Pinturicchio, Carracci, Guido Reni, Tintoretto and many others.

The palace is also famous for the beauty of its courtyard called “I Giardini di Palazzo Colonna”, where vases of citrus and ancient statues testify to the glorious past and splendour of the largest of the empires.

It would take a lifetime to describe all of the hidden wonders of this land, but that is not the purpose of this article. I hope that after reading this, the traveller will be inspired to explore places off the beaten path and discover some of the lesser known parts of Italy.

LAZIO REGIONAL CUISINE

When I think of all the great food that comes from Lazio, I am most struck by its simplicity. The key to its greatness lies in its seasonal use of local, fresh ingredients. The funny thing is, it took me a long time to appreciate this because it was all I’d ever known. It wasn’t until I became a professional chef that I understood the importance of simplicity—not only in food and the art of cooking—but also in how it applies to many aspects of life.

One of my fondest memories growing up was our morning routine in Ceccano, a small town in Lazio, Italy. I was 7 years old and I vividly recall the sound of car horns beeping, the bustling traffic and the feeling of my stomach grumbling as we made our way to breakfast, weaving through traffic in our Fiat Panda.

Once outside of the car, the pace didn’t alter, and in just under 6 minutes my Mom managed to get herself an espresso, "maritozzi alla panna" for us, then dash into our uncle's alimentari, a mini grocery store, to pick up our merenda or mid-morning snack. You

might think driving to breakfast sounds pretty mundane, but if you’ve ever driven in Italy, then you know there is nothing ordinary about it—especially in the 80s with my mom and her crazy driving at the wheel!

But, the first bite of that maritozzo and the bliss I felt when I opened a crispy, soft, oily and salty pizza bianca stuffed with mortadella made the mania all worthwhile.

One of the things I miss most about growing up in Lazio is the access to fresh, local food found in what many would consider the strangest of places. It was routine to pull over on the highway to buy fresh fava beans from a farmer while driving to the beach in Terracina and pop back again on the return for mozzarella di bufala, or to stop at the top of a curvy cliff of a mountain to get some pecorino from a shepherd.

It would have been strange if we hadn’t stopped! In Lazio there is an incredible respect for local food; we love to eat the best products from our terroir when they are at their natural prime.

Giovanna Alonzi

24

Federico Guida

② As I continued to learn more about the food of Lazio, I understood that “simple” is the name of the game— that top-quality ingredients are key and it’s routine to go to great lengths to procure them. Consider the most famous dishes that come from Lazio: Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana, and Carbonara. Each are made with four to five ingredients tops, which is why quality ingredients are essential to prepare these harmoniously simple and delicious dishes.

Guanciale and pecorino in a Carbonara embody that connection to land and season. During artichoke season, artichokes are present in every meal. They are fried, braised and served on pasta or as a side grilled and spiced with fresh mint. When puntarelle are in season, people load up on this bitter green chicory, served as a salad or cooked in olive oil and garlic until very soft.

In Lazio food has a time and place, and eating can serve as its own type of ritual. Sunday night is usually pizza night. In southern Lazio, that's often pizza al taglio, which translates into platters of crispy, light and perfectly dressed slices topped with fresh mozzarella, tomato, anchovies and squash blossoms, potatoes and rosemary. Supplì—roman rice balls filled with mozzarella and tomato are commonly the starter.

But some of the best cooking is found in domestic kitchens, where, even with today’s hectic pace, homemakers pride themselves on serving epic Sunday lunches. Southern kitchens are filled with the scent of Fettuccine al Sugo with "involtini"—veal cutlets braised in tomato sauce and stuffed with little Frittatine, and pecorino or "polpette"—soft meat balls. Or, if you’re very lucky, your table will include Timballo, a type of regional lasagna made of layers of pasta, little meatballs, mozzarella, boiled egg and parmigiano. Secon-

di, might be "abbacchio e patate"—roasted lamb with potatoes, "scotta dito"—fried lamb chops, or coniglio al vino—rabbit simply cooked with wine and rosemary.

But if you want to take a break from the kitchen, there are some dishes that are generally eaten at a Trattoria or Osteria. Some classic examples include,"trippa alla romana"—tripe cooked in tomato sauce and served with pecorino, or "gnocchi alla romana"—a type of baked gnocco that is made of semolina, or "coda alla vaccinara"—braised oxtail.

At Terroni, we always strive to do our best to follow this practice of preparing simple dishes with high quality, locally sourced ingredients, though being in Toronto poses a challenge when it comes to adhering to the local factor. It is difficult to serve up tradition in the full sense during a Toronto winter. But this is a challenge restaurants like ours face across the city.

Sotto Sotto’s owner, Marisa Rocca is keenly aware of the difficult balance between maintaining tradition while attempting to source local ingredients. Like me, Marisa was raised in Italy and she remembers that while growing up in Rome and vacationing in the countryside of Lazio, her family always went to great lengths to put the best food on the table. They made their own cheese, grew their own crops and kept livestock. For them, this was perfectly normal. Today when she eats a great spaghetti al pomodoro or a simple cherry tomato salad, she recognizes how fortunate she was to have been exposed to so many amazing culinary traditions and incredible local products. Our childhood experiences and relationship with food allows us to recognize the connection between good quality, local foods and simplicity.

25

L AZIO CUISINE

① 1. Da Enzo Al 29 2. Roberto, Maria Chiara Di Felice and the team at Da Enzo Al 29, Rome

③

3. Roman restaurant Sotto Sotto 120 Avenue Road Toronto 4. Daily fresh produce

④

LAZIO'S DA ENZO AL 29

The most popular Roman Osteria song chants "ma che ce frega, ma che ce'mporta" or "what do we care, why does it matter” that our host diluted our wine with water. The words of this song flow through our heads as we wind our way through the cobbled side streets of Trastevere to the epic Roman Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 where we are greeted by the most gracious hosts, Roberto e Chiara.

It is the tiniest of places, capturing the essence of traditional Roman dining at its cheerful and delightful best, with tables set cosily close to one another. Depending on the season, you may find one or all of our favourite things on this short and succinct menu. For starters, you

can delight in Ricotta D.O.P. or Carciofi Alla Giudea, deep fried artichokes, followed by beloved favourites like Amatriciana, Gricia, Carbonara, Polpette al Sugo (soft meatballs in tomato sauce), or Coda alla Vaccinara (braised oxtail), each carried out to delectable perfection. All of these classics are second to none because Chiara and Roberto take care to select only the finest producers and to nurture excellent relationships with their pasta makers, farmers and cheese makers.

They serve only seasonal, local products. The dining experience at Da Enzo al 29 consists of typical Roman and Lazio fare, but theirs are the finest examples! Here you will find recipes of some of their dishes.

26

RECIPES

Carbonara

Carciofi Alla Giudia

Serves 10

Ingredients 1 kg of spaghetti or rigatoni 400 g. guanciale 6 organic (large) eggs 300 g. of pecorino Fresh pepper

Serves one per person Method Over low heat, crisp the guanciale in a large pan. In a bowl whisk the pecorino with the eggs and black pepper. Cook the spaghetti al dente according to package instructions. Strain the pasta. SautĂŠ the spaghetti with the guanciale until the pasta is creamy and shiny. Add the egg mixture and sautĂŠ just until the eggs form a wonderful, creamy sauce.

Add more pecorino and black pepper if needed.

Last but not least put in a lot of love.

Ingredients Roman artichokes 1 per person (rounder, globe like artichokes)

Method Clean the artichokes by removing the external, tougher leaves. Peel the stem of its outer skin but leave the artichoke in one piece. Soak in water with lemon juice for at least 10 minutes.

Shake excessive water out of the artichoke and deep-fry them at 120 C (348 F) until they start to become crispy, about 15 minutes. Drain from the oil and cool upside down on paper towel.

Before serving, deep fry for 2 minutes at 280 C (536 F), being careful not to burn them. Season the inside with salt and pepper. Enjoy.

27

Patatine Fritte

Polpette

Serves one

Ingredients Potatoes from Santa Lucia in Montreale (in town of Abruzzo)

RECIPES

Serves one Method Da Enzo al 29 uses fresh potatoes from Santa Lucia in Montreale, from a small town in Abruzzo.

There, they produce excellent potatoes because they are situated at 1050 m above sea level and the air is crisp and clean. For those making this recipe in Ontario, I suggest using a russet potato like the Burbank or Norkotah. Cut the potatoes to your preferred shape and soak in water.

Dry them well and fry them in abundant sun flower oil. .

Ingredients 1 kg. of high quality fresh, lean ground beef 1 organic egg 200 g. of pecorino A pinch of nutmeg 1 tbsp. of minced parsley

Method Mix all ingredients well and roll into balls of about 50 gr each. Fry meatballs in a large pot with olive oil to cover the bottom. Add tomato sauce (plum tomatoes put through a food mill) to cover the meatballs, and cook for 40 minutes over low heat, continuing to add water to keep sauce level above meatballs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

720 queen st w 416 504 1992

1095 yonge st 416 925 4020

57A adelaide st e 416 203 3093

TERRONI CELEBRATES

25 years authentic italian food

VINO DEL LAZIO Even though Lazio has a history of winemaking predating the Romans, in today’s wine world, this region is best known for its white wines that are made in the nearby hills and find their way the local dinner tables.

During the last century, the major grapes in Lazio were over cropped to produce predictable, sweet white wines. That is, until recently! In the past decade, Lazio has been infused with investments from a few passionate individuals focused on improving production quality.

Nevertheless, wines from Lazio are still relatively hard to find outside of the region, so instead of launching into an endless ramble on all 30 official wine designations, I’ll talk about the wines you’ll actually be able to find right now.

The vast majority of Lazio’s vineyards are planted with white grapes—most notably several different varieties of Malvasia and Trebbiano—which are blended together to make regionally labeled wines, such as Frascati, Est! Est!! Est!!!, and Castelli Romani.

Max Stefanelli

Frascati

A Malvasia-Trebbiano white wine blend, primarily Malvasia Bianca di Candia and Trebbiano Toscano, with up to 10% other white regional grapes (including rarities like Bombino and Bellone). Wines are typically dry (secco) with flavours of white peach, lemon zest, and chalk, and with herbal notes reminiscent of basil and bitter green almond. The finest wines are typically labeled Frascati Superiore—an indication of a slightly higher production standard. You’ll also find a rare sweet wine called Cannellino di Frascati (one of Lazio’s 3 DOCGs), made with late-harvested, Noble Rot grapes.

30 Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone

A Malvasia-Trebbiano white wine blend found on the banks of Lake Bolsena, this is a lighter and zesty white, with lean flavours of underripe peach, saline, and smoke.

The blend is typically Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca di Candia, and Trebbiano Giallo. Arguably, Est! Est!! Est!!! is the perfect fried artichoke wine.

①

Bellone (aka Cacchione)

This White Wine Variety is one of the lost and forgotten white grapes of Lazio is found primarily southeast of Rome, in the Castelli Romani region. Bellone is said to have quenched the thirst of ancient Romans and Grechetto it is noted for having ripe aromas of Asian A White Wine Variety from the region of pear and papaya, and with grilled spice Orvieto, which is mostly in Umbria, but it notes. Despite it’s historical significance, you also stretches across the border into Lazio. won’t find many single-varietal Hurray! Historically, the region’s wines were made in a sweet style (abboccato) and Cesanese were prized by Popes and Kings, but with This Red Wine Variety is another Latium the changing tastes of the modern world, grape that is likely to have existed during this wine is now produced in a dry style. ancient Roman times. Cesanese Comune The primary varieties used in the blend are (more commonly known as just Cesanese) Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano, along has three regions dedicated to it: Cesanese with a few other rarities including Verdello, di Affile DOC is located around the muMalvasia, and Drupeggio. Wines with a nicipality of Affile in the province of Rome, high percentage of Grechetto deliver notes though the sub-variety of Cesanese di Affile of crunchy white peach, strawberry, and has migrated north to southern Tuscany. Cegreen melon, and leave a distinct textural sanese di Olevano DOC, which is also locatchalkiness on the palate. If you are a fan of ed in the province of Rome, around the city Provence Rosé, you will be pleasantly sur- of Olevano Romano and Cesanese di Piglio prised with the similarities found in these DOCG and centered around the Piglio muwines. Wines can be labeled Orvieto from nicipality in the province of Frosinone, is the Orvieto zone or just plain Grechetto considered by wine experts to produce the from Lazio, which will include a minimum best quality Cesanese wine. of 85% of this grape.

Cavinona Laziale Wine

Casale della Ioria (Wine Producer from Lazio Represented by Cavinona) South of Rome, a hilly area called Ciociaria has been an ideal habitat for vines and olive trees since the time of the Roman Empire. Its special microclimate has allowed the region’s variety of antique vines to remain unchanged over hundreds of years.

It is here, in the heart of this region, that the estate of Casale della Ioria is located and where they produce the red wine 2015 Cesanese del Piglio DOCG. The vineyards and olive trees sit about 400 meters above sea level, surrounded by woods. The farm is dedicated to organic cultivation of the typical red grape varieties Cesanese and Olivella and of the white variety Passerina. Consistent with this region,

these grapes are grown on vines that date back to ancient times. Casale della Ioria also produces extra virgin olive oil exclusively from its own olive trees.

• 2015 Cesanese Del Piglio DOCG

This wine is intense! It is bright ruby red in colour, followed by delicate violet aromas, and flavours of lovely red fruits and plums. On the palate, it’s surprisingly well balanced with subtle pincushion like tannins and perfectly moderate acidity.

After a sip or two you’ll start to notice a bitterness on the finish similar to that of kale. This is a perfect pairing for the Roman Cucina Povera or ‘Poor Kitchen’ style of cooking, typical of the peasants in southern Italy. I recommend you try it with Bucatini all’Amatriciana. Salute!

②

31

VINO LAZIO

⑤

④ A CHAT WITH OENOLOGIST RICCARDO COTARELLA

③ 1. Falesco EST! EST!! EST!!!

2. 2015 Cesanese Del Piglio DOCG 3. Riccardo Cotarella 4. Carvinea Winery 5. Ricardo's family winery "Falesco"

beautiful estate with vineyards in both Lazio and Umbria that promotes the indigenous grapes of its terroir.

This man’s passion also extends beyond the world of wine. Much of my phone conversation with Dr. Cotarella was about the biodiversity that Lazio has to offer to the world. I was entranced by his knowledge of Italy and its terroir. He took me to the South and told me stories about Sicily and its volcano and how the seawater influences the wines along the Adriatic coast in the Puglia and Molise regions. He told me that we could all get to know Italy simply through tasting its food and wines, but we would have to stick to the indigenous products!

I promised Riccardo I would give it a try.

Thanks Il Mago! As an Italian, I want to thank you for contributing to the fame of my land. As a wine lover, I want to thank you for being so good at what you do.

Riccardo Cotarella, aka Il Mago (The Wizard), is the Enologist of the moment— and by moment, I mean for the past decade.

Born in Umbria, 3 km from the Lazio border, Riccardo Cotarella grew up studying the grapes and winemaking style of his adoptive region. I say that because when I interviewed him, the very first thing he said was “I wasn’t born in Lazio but I want to be considered a product of this beautiful land”.

If you're a wine drinker and have sampled your share of Italian wines, you’ve likely had the good fortune to experience one of his wines. Dr. Cotarella is one of the most distinguished enologists in the world and his wines have won many awards over the years. He consults for hundreds of wineries in Italy and France, among them Carvinea, the Terroni family winery in Puglia. Riccardo Cotarella is also the founder of his family winery “Falesco”, a Written by Francesco Laudini

Robby Vrenozi

32

WHEN LUXURY BRANDS INVEST IN CULTURE “My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country.”

(John F. Kennedy). Over half a century after his death, President Kennedy’s words continue to inspire positive change. Diego Della Valle, CEO of luxury shoe brand Tod’s and JFK admirer, followed the late President’s advice and kick started a wave of philanthropy that has taken Italy by storm.

It all began in 2010, when the luxury retail magnate was offered the opportunity to take part in the restoration of one of the world’s most iconic landmarks—the Colosseum. Without a moment’s hesitation or misgiving about the astonishing 25 million euro price tag, Della Valle committed to the restoration of the 2000-year-old structure. The monumental project will unfold in three phases: phase one, which is now complete, was a thorough clean up of the site; phase two includes plans to remodel the hypogeum and labyrinthine ruins at the Colloseum’s center; and finally phase three will feature the construction of a new visitors center alongside the Arch of Constantine, as well as a clean up to the Stygian inner galleries. Five years in, after a great deal of buffing, waterpower cleaning, weeding and scaffolding, Italy’s beloved Colosseum is shining brighter than ever.

Much to the surprise of many, Della Valle was widely criticized for his generosity amidst widespread concerns that the project would result in commercialization of this heritage site. When asked for the motivation behind his altruism, Della Valle said that it was money very well spent.

“We are very proud Italians and we wanted to be involved because of our love for one of the most important Italian monuments—a symbol of Italy recognized around the world. When we have the means to contribute, why wouldn’t we?”

Diego Della Valle, savvy businessman, now acknowledged as one of the most generous Italians, unwittingly inspired a domino effect of philanthropy geared towards preserving invaluable works of art throughout the country.

In 2013, Pietro Beccari, CEO of the Roman fashion house Fendi, embarked on a 1.7 million euro restoration of the iconic Trevi Fountain. In 17 short months, the travertine stone and plaster of the beautiful fountain were restored to their original glory. To avoid disappointing visitors during the restoration, a small basin was set up to maintain the beloved tradition of tossing coins into the fountain, hoping for wishes to come true.

“Fendi is Rome, and Rome is Fendi. Fendi has a deep bond with Rome, the city. Our House was founded 90 years ago and Rome has always inspired us. The funding of these restoration projects is very important, not simply as an act of philanthropy, but as a way to thank the eternal city for all that we have been given throughout the years.”—Pietro Beccari, CEO of Fendi.

“When we have the means to contribute, why wouldn’t we?”

Diego Della Valle, CEO of luxury shoe brand Tod’s

$25 Million Colosseum, Rome

“The funding of these restoration projects is very important...as a way to thank the city for all that we have been given throughout our lives” Pietro Beccari, CEO of Fendi

$1.7

Million

Trevi Fountain, Rome

33

“It's our duty to give something back to a city that has made us famous around the world” Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari

$1.7

Million

Spanish Steps, Rome

“I’ve always thought that mere profits of an enterprise aren’t enough if there isn’t a higher purpose. This is why, through our foundations, we try to support projects that aim to embellish Humanity” Brunello Cuccinelli Solomeo, Perugia

G O O D N E WS

Elsewhere in the Italian city, high-end jeweller Bulgari joined the admirable initiative and completed the restoration of not one, but two beloved Roman landmarks: the Spanish Steps, the famous backdrop to haute couture fashion shows and iconic movies like William Wyler’s “Roman Holiday”, as well as the Baths of Caracalla, which Bulgari credits as the inspiration behind their collection “Diva’s Dream”. Ten months and 1.7 million euros later. The project was completed, demonstrating once again the pride of “Made-in-Italy”.

“It is our duty to give something back to a city that has made us famous around the world” (Jean-Christophe Babin, C.E.O Bulgari).

The restoration of the Barcaccia Fountain, located at the base of the Spanish Steps, is another inspiring story. In February of 2015 an angry group of fans supporting the Rotterdam soccer team Feyenoord went on a destructive rampage in the historic center of Rome, causing significant damage to the fountain, many near-by businesses and the historic center of Piazza di Spagna. This senseless devastation turned heartening when the people of Rome and Holland came together to correct this dreadful wrong. "Rome belongs to us all. We will show that fan violence is unacceptable."

(Ivo Opstelten, Dutch Justice Minister) The employees of the Rome offices of Dutch company Royal Woudenberg’s donated their lunch hours, offering free labour to help reconstruct the fountain.

Additionally, Woudenberg's parent company, Janssen de Jong, contributed 50,000 euros towards expenses for the repairs.

Della Valle’s Philanthropic snowball effect did not end in Lazio. Renzo Rosso, the owner of Veneto jeans manufacturer Diesel, committed 6.5 million euros towards the renovation of the Rialto Bridge in Venice. Fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo racked up an 800 000 euro tab in the restoration of a wing of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence and Brunello Cuccinelli helped restore Solomeo, the Umbrian town where the brand is based.

“We have governed our enterprise believing that we are custodians and not owners. I’ve always thought that mere profits of an enterprise aren’t enough if there isn’t a higher purpose. This is why, through our foundations, we try to support projects that aim to embellish Humanity” (Brunello Cuccinelli, on his responsibility toward Solomeo) When a country is facing challenging times, the preservation of culture becomes less of a priority.

This is why the beautiful movement initiated by Della Valle’s generosity is so instrumental—it shifts the responsibility of historic preservation away from palazzo Chigi in Rome into the hands of private entrepreneurs whose pride of country is stronger than greed.

In support of the movement, Dario Franceschini, the Italian Minister of Culture, introduced the monumental “Art Bonus Tax Cut” in 2014, allowing executives to claim up to 65% of their charitable donation—finally a law I can get behind!

A TRIBUTE TO PAPA FRANCESCO

By Gianni Romanelli The Vatican City is the smallest independent state in the world. Pope Francis, the head of the Catholic Church, picked his name in honour of Saint Francis of Assisi. His choice already tells us a lot about him.

Humble, open minded, big hearted, progressive and well liked, he is promoting change and renewal of the Catholic Church. He lives by the true teachings of Jesus, using unconventional ways to reach people— as shown by his 10.8 million twitter followers. His words have inspired millions of all ages, faiths and ethnicities. Here are a few that have inspired us.

ON MERCY:

“A little bit of mercy makes the world less cold and more just.”

ON DIVERSITY:

"A person who thinks only about building walls, wherever they may be, and not building bridges is not Christian. This is not in the Gospel.”

ON MOTHER TERESA:

“No one can be as good as Jesus Christ, but she’s pretty close”

“I think we too are the people who, on the one hand, want to listen to Jesus, but on the other hand, at times, like to find a stick to beat others with, to condemn others. And Jesus has this message for us: mercy. I think—and I say it with humility—that this is the Lord's most powerful message: mercy.”

ON FORGIVENESS:

"God's forgiveness is what we all need, and it is the greatest sign of His mercy. A gift that every forgiven sinner is called upon to share with every brother and sister he or she meets. It is beautiful to be forgiven, but you too, if you wish to be forgiven, forgive in turn. Forgive!”

ON RELIGION:

“It is not necessary to go to church and give money—for many, nature can be a church. Some of the best people in history did not believe in God, while some of the worst deeds were done in His name.”

ON HOMOSEXUALITY:

“If a person is gay and looks for God and is of good will, who am I to judge him/her?"

“Tell me: when God looks at a gay person, does he endorse the existence of this person with love, or reject and condemn this person?

We must always consider the person”

ON RELATIONSHIPS:

“Argue as much as you like, even if the plates fly, that is fine, but never end the day without making peace"

SUD FORNO TEMPERANCE N OW O P E N

visit our new location 132 YONGE STREET sudforno.com

36

Stephanie Palmer

STIRATA ROMANA

Note: Stirata translated into English literally means stretched!

Photo Rick O'brien

Stirata romana, often lovingly and simply referred to as pizza bianca in Rome, has ancient origins and is a treasured local favourite. Ancient bakers, dating as far back as the Etruscans, created a flat, oven-baked bread, focaccia, which was made from a simple dough, baked quickly and directly on the hearth. Focaccia, which derives from the Latin words panis (bread) and focacius (fire), evolved over the centuries as pizza bianca.

Stirata romana or pizza bianca is essentially focaccia bread–a hand stretched dough made of flour, yeast, water, extra virgin olive oil, and salt. It is worked into a long rectangular shape, dimpled by hand and stretched up to four feet.

Hugely popular in Rome as a breakfast item or a snack on the go, it is served warm and cut into squares, plain, with a simple drizzle of olive oil, sea salt and rosemary, or sliced and filled (farcita) with

ingredients like local salumi, mortadella, prosciutto, cheese, and vegetables. It has become a quintessential staple of Roman street food.

When in Rome, I recommend a visit to Forno Campo de’ Fiori. I have an unforgettable memory of devouring the most delicious zucchini flower and anchovy pizza bianca, after stumbling upon this bakery one particularly scorching-hot afternoon in July many years ago, when my young son and I got lost in the narrow streets of campo De’Fiori after having visited the Pantheon.

In Toronto, you can enjoy authentic stirata romana at Sud Forno, Terroni’s bakery, which has been serving up authentic stirata since 2013 on Queen Street West.

Luckily for us a second Sud Forno just opened its doors in the downtown core this summer at the corner of Yonge & Temperance. Bring on the stirata! Yum!

38

INS TAGRAM

@livetolovestudio Love is always in the air at Terroni Adelaide

@ruperson When you thought it couldn't get any better...SUD2

@aimeelegault Happiest Birthday from the whole Terroni Family (there are a lot of us BTW)

@elenulla Its your birthday, gonna partay like its your birthday...who da man? You da man Cosi!

@terronito Terroni is proud to be an Italian Canadian! Thanks Canada you are truly beautiful

@ brittmacm Hot Peppers never looked so good :)

@cumbraes Cumbraes you make us look good! #bestneighbors

@sweetlifestyle.ca Now this is definitely what Sunday Funday should look like!

@terronito Thank you! You beautiful women, you make the world go round!

39

@terronito Now that's true love!

@littleblackpearls Working on my fitness by burning calories, chewing and eating...

INS TAGRAM

@sudforno All of a sudden I got really hungry! YUMMY!

@minifoodiesto How many tickles does it take to make a squid laugh? Ten-tickles hahah!

@sudforno Breakfast done right!

@terronito People taking care of people, Good Karma!

@terronila Women + Wine = Happiness

@rob_vreno The Terroni Magazine Dream Team and they ain't bad to look at either #wheresBella

@sudforno How sweet it is to be loved by Sud Forno

Simply Delicious....

Tasty and Nutricious!

From our family to your family table for over 50 years.

For a complete list of our hand-made cheeses, please visit:

www.internationalcheese.ca (416) 769-3547

LA BICICLETTA O F F E R I N G T H E B E S T I N I TA L I A N C Y C L I N G

1180 CASTLEFIELD AVENUE, TORONTO M6B 1G1 www.labicicletta.com

•

416 762 2679

42

ciot.com

TORONTO

MONTREAL

NEW YORK

QUEBEC

DETROIT