T Magazine No. 9

T 19

ISSUE Nº9

92

TERRONI MAGAZINE

Featured Region:

ABRUZZO

Between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea: regional delicacies, flavourful wines, authentic people, inspiring artisans, dramatic landscapes and ever changing climates.

ITALIAN BIODIVERSITY Founder of EATALY Oscar Farinetti on biodiversity and his vision on how to protect and promote the true “Made in Italy”.

FOGO ISLAND FISH

Tony Cobb and Janice Thomson share their beautiful story and teach us how to prepare an authentic “fisherman’s breakfast”.

Plus A TRUE TASTE OF ABRUZZESE CUISINE IN TORONTO! CHEF AND OWNER LUCA DEL ROSSO IN HIS KITCHEN AT RISTORANTE LA CASCINA. AND MORE ON THE ANCIENT GOLDSMITH ART, A TRIP FROM ABRUZZO’S CHALETS TO ITS FISHING TRABOCCHI, ARROSTICINI, PECORINO AND MANY OTHER LOCAL DISCOVERIES.

ARTIGIANATO ITALIANO

(Italian craftsmanship) The true soul of Made in Italy. Let’s help it thrive!

CONTRIBUTORS Max Stefanelli is the director of operations for Terroni in Los Angeles and the primary wine director at all Terroni outposts. He began working for Terroni in Toronto in 1999, after he left Bologna, Italy. When he isn’t tasting the bottled fruits of Italy, Max can be found playing ball hockey and zipping around on his shiny Vespa, or hanging out cooking at home with his beautiful wife, Francesca and their three gorgeous bambini.

Federico Guida was born and raised in Milan, Italy. His lifelong passion for photography inspired his training and after exploring several photographic genres, ranging from studio photography to public events, he developed a natural inclination for street photography. He currently works as a freelancer, collaborating with studios and agencies in Italy. To explore his latest work visit federicoguida.it

Jessica Allen started working at Terroni as a dishwasher about 17 years ago.

A remarkably quick study, she soon moved on to serving and eventually helped manage the Queen Street location. After she left to take a job at a magazine, she helped launch Terroni magazine with publisher Elena di Maria. Now she works on a TV show, but Terroni will always need her.

Giovanna Alonzi has been with Terroni for 15 years; she has worked at all locations and is their executive chef. You can usually spot her at Sud Forno, where she arrives at the crack of dawn on her bike to bake and cook up a storm. When not there, you might spot her running around the city, teaching a cooking class, eating a bombolone or just hanging out with her two nutty children and husband.

Although Roberto Verì was born in Guelph Ontario in 1967, he became a human being on his first visit to Abruzzo in 1977. His ancestral family is from the Golfo di Venere along La Frentana. His next project is recording G.P.S. in several of the Abruzzese languages (not dialects). Along with Corrado de Luca, he directed the critically acclaimed documentary "Barbieri" for Fannulloni Films. His left arm has a tattoo of the crest of his parents's village, Rocca San Giovanni (Ch); his right shoulder bears the crest of Abruzzo.

Armando Salerno Mele, of Pugliese origins, was born in San Marino, grew up around Puglia and Emilia-Romagna where he graduated in IT and management and has a Masters in Web Marketing and Communications. After several jobs left him an unsatisfied employee, he decided to launch out on his own in 2011. Bringing together his education, experiences and passion, with a goal to promote Italian artisans to the world via the web, he created a platform that showcases artisans in a professional manner, promoting them and and providing a platform to present themselves, sell and ship their products worldwide. Let me introduce you to madeinitalyfor.me

Writer and journalist Elisabetta di Maria lives in Milan. She has contributed to several newspapers and magazines covering design, literature, local customs and traditions. Today, she prefers to dedicate more time to writing short stories and producing jewellery that she designs.

Deep inside though, she is still a farmer from Brindisi, who writes about cuisine, agriculture, countryside, lasagna, orecchiette, tortellini and grilled octopus in her spare time.

Stephanie Palmer is the general manager of the Adelaide location in Toronto. She has been with the company since 1998. A graduate of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design (BFA’00), her passion for pasta is only eclipsed by her love of photography. To explore her latest work visit stephaniepalmerphotography.com

Publisher Elena di Maria

Copy Editor Amy Cormier

Editor-in-Chief Francesca Vittoria Gironi

Design Small

Director of Photography Stephanie Palmer

Many thanks to Oscar Farinetti Andrea Natarelli Lucio Nespoli Giovanni Paolone Gianna Sami Karina Watsone

Photographer Federico Guida

T Magazine Headquarters 720 Queen St. W. Toronto, M6J 1E8 For inquiries and comments please email: francescav@terroni.ca Cover photo by Federico Guida

Follow us on @terroniTO @terroniLA @Sud Forno @barcentraleTO Terroni Toronto & Los Angeles

Printed in Canada

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TERRONI INDEX

by Jessica Allen

ABRUZZO Number of baccalà (salt cod) recipes in the Teramo commune recipe book: 100 Century that salt cod, which was vital to commerce between the Old and New World, really took off thanks to access to cheap salt: 17th Century of first permanent settlement on Fogo Island, NL: 18th

Population of Abruzzo, “the greenest region in Europe”: 1.3 million

Number of hours it takes for scamorza d’Abruzzo to mature: 24

Year that montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine was classified as a DOC: 1968

Number of wild herbs forged to produce the Abruzzo green liqueur Centerbe: 100

Estimated number of people left homeless: 67,000

Parco Naz. del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga

Teramo M. Corvo

Corno Grande

MARE ADRIATICO

Castelli

L'AQUILA

Pescara Santo Stefano di Sessanio Chieti

M. Velino Parco Reg. Sirente-Velino

M. Amaro

Parco Naz. della Majella

How long ago saffron was introduced to Abruzzo by a priest named Santucci: 450 years Area of cultivation today: 8 hectares Area of cultivation 115 years ago: 430 hectares Number of crocus flowers needed to produce 1 gram of L’Aquila saffron, which ranks as some of the world’s best: 150

Length: 20 seconds Number of villages affected: 45

How many Toronto restaurants receive cod from Fogo Island Fish: 20 Amount of cod the company, created by Fogo Island native Tony Cobb, catches per day: 500-600 lb.

Magnitude of the 2009 earthquake that struck L’Aquila, Abruzzo: 6.3

Estimated number of Italian volunteers: 2,500

Number of pages in Nel Blu, a book detailing Italy’s extraordinary and unique biodiversity written

by Eataly founder Oscar Farinetti: Trabocchi Coast 396 Number of indigenous goat breeds found in Italy’s 20 distinct regions: 63 Variety of olives: 538

Parco Naz. d'Arbuzzo

Year that Federico Fillini’s La Strada, shot in Abruzzo, won the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film: 1957 Year that Madonna was born from an Abruzzese family: 1958 Population of Pacentro, L’Aquila, the hometown of the Ciccone family, whose most famous member goes by “Madonna”: 1,279

Year that the Slow Food Movement manifesto was signed: 1989 Number of countries involved today: 160

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AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

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photos by Federico Guida

ITALIAN ARTIGIANATO

THE SOUL OF MADE IN ITALY

by Armando Salerno-Mele

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AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

Lucio Nespoli, glassworker, mosaicist, sculptor and painter. rebisarsnova.com

Artisans

in Italy are facing a difficult and conflicting time. The national economy is suffering a significant recession; purchases are made based predominantly on price over quality. As a result, less attention is paid to local artisans’ work, with the exception of prestige brands in select niche industries.

Fortunately, “made in Italy” still elicits a meaningful connection and consumer trust worldwide. It is practically a brand slogan, as recognizable as any Coca Cola campaign ever launched. “Made in Italy” artisanal products are recognized as unique, and highly coveted. As a result, this allows those skilled artisans to specialize while keeping up with modern times, maintaining successful businesses, and exporting their products worldwide. When artisans are not supported, they are unable to provide for themselves, with a risk of forever losing priceless knowledge and craftsmanship skills built over hundreds of generations.

AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

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Ceramics from Abruzzo can be recognized apart from those from Puglia or Tuscany. The center of production is based in Castelli and it’s famous for its vivid colors and designs. Master Vincenzo Di Simone from Castelli still uses the most ancient traditions in his production.

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AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

In Maiella and Lettomanoppello we find skillful stonecutters that work the white limestone. One of the most significant masters of this art was Pietro Cacsella.

Five generations of Claudio di Biase’s family have carried on this tradition and remain the only family that uses the original techniques, respecting the mountains and nature. labobba.yolasite.com Historical hints and artigianato today The origin of craftsmanship is almost as ancient as humanity itself. It evolved along with society, largely as a result of necessity, through the development of working tools, clothing and utilities we use each day.

Most of these objects are now mass produced on an industrial scale with minimal regard for quality. In Italy, the evolution of craftsmanship was supported by the manner in which artisans were valued within their communities. During the Roman Empire, many were appointed as knights and played key role in the first industrial revolution. In Italy since the IV century many “artisanal guilds” were established to ensure that the highly detailed skills were passed down through the generations. Later, during the renaissance, artisanal workshops were introduced as a source of art and technique, which led to the artistic movement of the arts and crafts of the 900’s.

AR TIGIANATO ITALIANO

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Textile craftsmanship has very ancient origins in Abruzzo: the famous tarante, are colorful woolen blankets still skillfully manufactured in the town of Taranta Peligna. Precious wools from local sheep are dyed with natural colors obtained from local plants and roots. Daniela Martella is a young artisan who learned from her mother the art of knitting and crocheting, producing high quality garments. martellahandmade.com A unique variety of forms, styles and techniques In Italy, each region has its own traditions and styles of craftsmanship that are an integral part of their regional identity. From the North to the South, each area had its own peculiarities. Just think of Murano glass, to the marble manufacturing in Carrara, to the luthiers of violins in Cremona, the Grolle from Valdaosta (wooden coffee cup), the papier-mache from Lecce, Venetian gondolas, and a never-ending list that continually grows longer when traveling throughout the country.

Artisanal workshops remain the 3rd highest tourist draw in Italy.

Although you will find potters, carpenters and blacksmiths in many regions, each area produces its own expertise and unique styles.

Purchase unique products from Italian artisans at madeinitalyfor.me

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Capo Capo is a classic Italian aperitivo made with bitter orange, rhubarb, and infused with a blend of Alpine herbs.

Enjoy a Capo Fizz Ingredients — 1.5 oz Capo Capo — 0.75 oz Grapefruit Juice — 2 oz Sparkling Wine Preparation Pour Capo over a glass with rocks.

Add the fresh grapefruit juice.

Capo Capo is available at all Terroni locations.

For more information please contact us at info@capocapo.it or visit www.capocapo.it

Top with sparkling wine and garnish with grapefruit twist.

A R T E O R A FA A B RU Z Z E S E

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ARTE ORAFA ABRUZZESE (GOLDSMITH’S ART FROM ABRUZZO)

by Elisabetta Di Maria

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A R T E O R A FA A B RU Z Z E S E

The tradition of goldsmith art in Abruzzo dates back to medieval times, when artisans would dedicate themselves to manufacturing sacred objects; in Sulmona, L’Aquila and Guardiagrele’s goldsmith shops would craft crosses and reliquaries.

It wasn’t until the XIX century that the craft evolved to include ornamental objects, making it accessible to the working class for the first time. Earrings, necklaces, buckles, pins, buttons, bellcollars and medals were all crafted using repoussage and chisel techniques. Sulmona and Pescocostanzo stood out for their refined manufacturing of filigree, while in Scanno ancient rings were melted using the lost wax casting technique; these rings were called “manucce” (two small hands enclosing a heart) and “cicerchiata”, a band of eastern origin covered in specs.

Necklaces and medallions were gifted to the bride as part of her trousseau, bearing symbols of fertility and good luck. They were crafted in the shape of half-moons, little hoops, coral horns and shells which would adorn earrings and necklaces, and hung from linked chains as large as hazelnuts or as small as pepper grains.

A R T E O R A FA A B RU Z Z E S E

Perhaps the single most notable artifact of Abruzzo's goldsmiths is the presentosa. This good luck pendant was traditionally given by future parents-in-law to the intended bride as a symbol of love; at the centre of a filigree circle, two hearts are tied by a ribbon. Once married, the bride would receive a second presentosa; this time with a ship in the middle of the filigree representing the long journey that the newlyweds were embarking on together. Many believe its name (that means “the wedding gift”) comes from the Abruzzese writer Gabriele D’Annunzio, who celebrated this jewel in his poem “Il Trionfo della Morte” (The Death’s Triumph): “portava agli orecchi due grandi cerchi d’oro e sul petto la presentosa, una grande stella di filigrana con in mezzo due cuori”. (she was wearing on her ears two big golden circles and on her chest the presentosa, a big filigree star with two hearts in the middle).

The “petto d’oro” (golden chest) was a necklace made out of three chains that would cover the entire

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chest, peppered with many small good luck charms.

Sometimes it would be a compass to safely guide the couple or a little purse, as a reminder to lead a frugal life.

These jewels tell the stories, customs and virtues of a people that were very connected to the sea and the land, and are still manufactured in goldsmith shops today.

In the ancient Di Rienzo goldsmith shop in Scanno to this day, they make long chains in red gold of ancient origin, called “chiacchiere” (gossips). Its jingling was believed to expel nasty rumors. Di Rienzo’s necklaces made in gold and silver, are a reinterpretation of these ancient long chains. They remain fashionable and are often worn looped around your neck several times. These good luck symbols are still manufactured by today’s jewelers using the same techniques and precious metals that have been employed for centuries. In doing so, they preserve traditions and maintain an enduring connection to their communities which are so influenced by the nature which surrounds and protects them.

13 The Art of Cooking with Santa Lucia A few words come to mind when thinking about Santa Lucia Mozzarella: mild, cheesy, stretchy and delicious. We can’t imagine the art of cooking without it. It’s simple, understated, but very important in the world of cuisine. It completes a pasta al forno. It’s wholesome, healthy and tasty melted over a spicy pizza. Create a savoury appetizer by garnishing it with fresh tomatoes, basil, sea salt, oregano and olive oil.

Simply delicious, tasty and nutritious Santa Lucia Mozzarella.

From our family to your family table for over 50 years.

For a complete list of our hand-made cheeses, please visit:

www.internationalcheese.ca (416) 769-3547

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Castelli

BIODIVERSITÀ ITALIANA

fishing trabocco

B I O D I V E RS I TÀ I TA L I A N A

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Rocca Calascio

I still remember that moment, in elementary school some 40 years ago, when my third grade teacher called me up to the roll-down map in the centre of the blackboard, pointed to Italy, Sicily, and Sardinia and he said “You could stick ALL of Italy, into Hudson’s Bay, and have room left over.” Okay fair enough. But so what?

This doesn’t explain how dinky Italy and not humungous Canada had designed the Lancia Stratos. Or how Italy milled thousands of textiles to produce coveted fashions. Or why Italy had better tasting food. It would take Italy itself to help us see the light some years later, by drawing the world into a mindfulness of biodiversity.

By now, many of us are familiar with Carlo Petrini and the Slow Food movement, and Oscar Farinetti of Eataly chain. They break it down clearly: geography, geology, and the “Five Great Winds” create a distinct microclimate. Microclimate Italy. Beyond the political regional boundaries of La Reppubblica Italiana, there are “bioregions”, specifically shaped by nature, individually perfect for yielding particular specialities; collectively producing a bounty of unparalleled breadth.

This is why such a tiny little land mass and surrounding sea, produces 8,000 different plant and vegetable cultivars, 55,600 domestic animal breeds, 538 types of olives, 830 specialised agri-foods (D.O.C.; D.O.P), etc…

By measure, this makes Italy the most biodiverse country on Earth. The scale of bio-diversity totally trumps land mass.

But variety and amount of agricultural commodity and product itself, is not the big picture. Biodiversity is also about locality and labour in society. It’s about millennia of migration, immigration, emigration, expulsion, colonisation, assimilation, war, alliance, famine, bounty, enlightenment, conflict, peace, challenge, stability, challenge, achievement, change, challenge, and finally, over-

all stability (with the constant undercurrent of challenges). Centuries of techniques and ideas and merchant goods arriving in the ports of Genoa, Napoli, Venice and Ortona. Whatever artistry didn’t sprout up home grown in an Italian village was grafted and later naturalised into particular area later renown for the work, thanks to essential outside influence. The same winds which sculpted Italy pushed the ships to its ports and allowed artisans to have fellowship, find a suitable area for the work to burgeon, to adapt and to allow the artigianato (craftsmanship) to prosper in the modern age of globalisation. Which is a challenge.

The Sultanate in Sicily brought great architectural ceramic work and encaustic tile, still produced to this day.

Of Murano glass in Venice, what can be said? Everyone knows about Murano glass, hand-blown on the Venetian island of Murano.

In Liguria, Chiavari furniture is made in the manner it was several centuries ago, because several centuries ago, the technique to make a Chiavarina chair was perfected.

A fine-crafted, elegant designed, strong, reparable, lightweight, perfect chair. All guests invited to a White House State Dinner are seated on a Chiavarina chair.

Where you have a university in Italy, like in Napoli, you will find artigiani binding books, and making slipcovers for iPads. Where there are paintings, an artigiano is making or restoring a frame in the suitable manner. It is often argued that the cost of such highly crafted artisan work, given the small number of artigiani versus cheap mass produced alternatives push accessibility out of the reach of all save for elite groups, and exerts a pressure on the artigiani to buckle under altogether.

When we talk about biodiversity and craftsmanship, it’s impossible not to mention the region of Abruzzo.

by Roberto Verì

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However, most of the time, only Abruzzese would talk about Abruzzo.

This small region is the greenest one in Europe. One third of the region make up three national parks, one regional park, and 38 protected nature reserves. 75% of Europe's living and rare species, depend on this area for survival.

Abruzzo produces most of Italy’s tomatoes. It is home to Abruzzese spelt, Aquila saffron which Milano buys up completely, the Fucino potato, the red garlic of Sulmona, which is red, Ventricina salami from Vasto, outstanding truffles - so good there is a conspiracy of silence as to where they are and how to get them!

Farindola pecorino, Mortadella di Campotosto, horse prosciutto from Scanno, And figs! Abruzzo is not only the country’s biggest producer of figs, in terms of varieties of cultivar. There is the commercial cultivar, the standard Turkish, AND, the Callara, the Sementino, the Biachi, the Verdino, the Dattero, the Pendolino, Fichera Puttana, and I’ll end up with Fichera Puttana rather than type another 60 fig names that aren’t as good as Fichera Puttana.

Although Abruzzo contended with brigandage until the late 19th century following unification, it has never known the scourge of institutional organised crime poisoning all aspects of its society.

Traditionally, long-route transportation and travel difficulties due to the severe geography of the region helped the economy of tiny areas. “Zig-zagging” around Abruzzo were commercial routes and routes of pilgrimage and travel that brought people to towns or cities and established areas of expertise.

Even after the arrival of multinational industrial affairs broadened transport infrastructure, increased tourism and diversified the economy in the 1950’s,

B I O D I V E RS I TÀ I TA L I A N A

small to medium-sized local concerns chiefly fuelled the steady rise in Abruzzo’s G.D.P. for over sixty years.

But what is most remarkable when we breakdown Abruzzo’s economic sectors is the prominence of Artigianato or Artisan Master Craftwork.

Abruzzo’s radical approach to nourish and maintain a healthy diverse Artigianato is a lesson to the world.

Il dialetto Abruzzese The erroneous belief that regional “dialects” are a vulgar and crude form of some sort of “proper; standard” Italian has finally diminished with the understanding that variations of a language, are also, a language: a subspecies perhaps, but a language nonetheless. Max Weinreich popularized the quip, “A dialect is a language without an army and a navy.” Take Greek colonization, Roman assimilation, invasion by Visigoths, rule

by Germanic Shavians, and Napoleonic and Spanish hegemony, mix with rugged geography with tenuous transportation and this will produce thousands of linguistic and grammatical variations from villages and cities less than a kilometer apart in Abruzzo. Abruzzese is regarded by some linguists as a sub-dialect of Napoletano, and sorted into 4 categories: Abruzzese-adriatico, Abruzzese-occidentale, Abruzzese-sabino, and “altri”! The subcategories themselves are only headings for dozens of other specific variations. Abruzzese can evoke every single bit of passion, beauty, and humor that Napoletano—Italy’s second most understood version of Italian—does. Because it has no army and navy, Abruzzese needs the arts to express itself, creative technology to be its conduit, and native speakers who need never be ashamed to speak the familiar language of their tribe, and their Italy.

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B I O D I V E RS I TÀ I TA L I A N A

ABRUZZO A DREAM FROM SKI CHALETS TO FISHING TRABOCCHI «Settembre. Andiamo è tempo di migrare. Ora in terra d’Abruzzo i miei pastori lascian gli stazzi e vanno verso il mare, vanno verso l’Adriatico selvaggio che verde è come i pascoli dei monti”.

“September, let's go. It's time to migrate.

Now in the land of Abruzzi my shepherds leave the pens and take it to the sea: they descend to the wild Adriatic that is green like the pastures of the mountains”.

— G. D’Annunzio Here I am, mixing drinks and serving wine during one of my usual Wednesday night shifts at Bar Centrale when one of my regulars, asks: “Andrea, where in Italy are you from again?”

“Abruzzo sir!” I reply, as a wave of nostalgic passion washes over me, “The place where you can snowboard and swim in the ocean in less than an hour”. And with those words, I’m immediately transported on a journey in my mind.

Upon landing at Leonardo da Vinci International Airport in Rome we head to Roccaraso, where our trip begins.

After a couple of hours driving east through the Appennini mountains we arrive at the beautiful town of Roccaraso, arguably the best ski town of south-central Italy with over 120km of slopes and a unique landscape for backcountry lovers.

After a tiring day on the slopes, we are ready to relax and treat ourselves to a massage, sauna, and hot springs.

Rejuvenated and hungry, “andiamo a magnàà”!

(Let’s go to eat!) We now head to Campo di Giove, a little village south-west of Roccaraso where we can enjoy some of the best mountain offerings at “La vecchia fonte” restaurant.

Bruno, our server for the night starts us off with mixed bruschetta with ricotta, cherry tomato and homemade sausage paired with a nice glass of local Trebbiano (med-full body white). Next up, our server Bruno walks towards us with our first main courses: truffle chitarra pasta and deer ragù chitarra pasta. You might think that dinner is over by now, but there is more to come! Our wild boar tagliata cacciatore style is on its way accompanied by a bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (med body red).

Trabocchi Coast TERAMO

Corno Grande

Parco Naz. della Majella

L’Aquila Parco Reg. Sirente-Velino

Sulmona

by Andrea Natarelli

MARE ADRIATICO

Ortona

Fossacesia

Campo di Giove

Roccaraso

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After some apple crostata, two “not decaf” espressos and a selection of local Amari we spend the night in one of the many B&B, better known as “agriturismo”.

Early the next morning we hit the road again. On our way to L’Aquila we pass through the “Majella” national park, where we admire two of its most recognized inhabitants: the Marsican brown bear and the Apennine wolf, as well as beautiful floral varieties such as “scarpetta di venere” (trans. “Venus’ shoe”, purple orchid) and the “Genziana Appeninica”, which roots are used to make the aromatic digestive called “Genziana”.

After a quick stop in Sulmona, the largest confetti producer in the world, we arrive in L’Aquila which is now best known as the location of the devastating earthquake in April 2009 which left half of the population homeless. Yet, in spite of all of the damage done, the city is still considered one of the richest historical sites in Abruzzo with the Duomo, the basilica of San Bernardino and the Auditorium del Parco (designed by Renzo Piano) are the main attractions.

The ocean is now calling, and with L’Aquila’s skyline behind us, we take highway A24 and head for the Trabocchi Coast.

The drive is spectacular, mountains roll into hills as we get closer to the coast, the landscape is slowly changing and suddenly: here it is! Infinite, quiet, and kissed by a vernal sun, the Adriatic Sea welcomes us with its majestic expanse.

B I O D I V E RS I TÀ I TA L I A N A

On our way to Fossacesia, with the ocean on our left and the hilly vineyards on our right my hometown of Ortona stands out between the countless hills that embrace the Adriatic.

As we drive, the view is breathtaking, the Aragonese castle and the San Tommaso cathedral evoke images of grandeur from a medieval past.

Meanwhile the sunset transforms the ocean into a thousand shades of red. We finally arrive to Fossacesia “land of Trabocchi”, which are wooden structures very similar to a pier used for fishing.

It’s time for dinner and as we stroll along the beach, we stumble upon a tiny restaurant hidden at the end of the trabocco which are tiny fishing huts on stilts over water along the shore.

The menu is very simple and changes every day based on the daily catch.

There is a blackboard hanging in the dining room that says “Tonight: brodetto di pesce with shrimps, mussels, clams and cod, homemade pappardelle with crab and cherry tomatoes, frittura mista.

Dinner is over, along with two bottles of Pecorino (med body white), kindly suggested by Ciccio our server for the night.

As we leave the restaurant we are met by the full moon which is gently kissing the surface of the ocean. A perfect journey sadly comes to an end as we prepare to leave this unique place known as Abruzzo.

IN CONVERSATION WITH OSCAR FARINET TI

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by Elena & Francesca

What role does Italian artigianato (craftsmanship) plays in the reinvigoration of Italy’s struggling economy and what can be done to recover the industry?

It’s entirely fundamental: the Italian art of craftsmanship tells a very ancient story and the skills of Italian artisans are unparalleled in the world. The erosion of these skills and industries put our country in an ever-precarious position. To help remedy this, we need to create and support a network of skilled artisans with diverse expertise that can be showcased in worldwide retail chains. We have to ensure that our ability to create awareness about our products is on par with the high level of what we create and produce.

Inspired by Oscar Farinetti’s book “Nel Blu”, which examines Italy’s biodiversity, we met with Eataly’s founder to talk about it. Eataly is the largest Italian marketplace in the world, comprising a variety of restaurants, food and beverage counters, bakery, retail items, and a cooking school, counting 30 stores in the world. A Toronto location is to come soon!

Us Italians living outside of the country are able to see everything that makes it such a phenomenally beautiful place. How can Italians, blinded and exhausted by the political and financial crisis, restore faith and fall in love again with their country?

As I see it, we must first stop focusing on being victims and rather concentrate on the positive to rebuild a sense of pride. We will accomplish this by telling the stories of our traditions and diversity which remain our greatest riches. We need to remember that we are a country brimming over with natural and cultural wealth which collectively hold the key to correcting our economy. Seeing as we don’t get to choose where we are born, the least we can do is show due respect by being proud of where we are from!

The bastardization of “Made in Italy” with hundreds of such labeled products actually not originating in Italy has undoubtedly tarnished our image and impacted our economy. What needs to be done to address this?

Until we figure out an effective way to tell our own story and protect our collective ‘brand’, we can only blame ourselves. We need to establish and enforce a universal “ITALIA” trademark to allow consumers to trust that Please help us understand biodiversity and why Italy the products they are purchasing are certified to be is considered to be one of the most biodiverse coun- originated and manufactured in Italy. tries in the world?

Without a doubt, biodiversity is one of the main fac- Oscar Farinetti: successful Italian businessman, syntors that makes Italy stand out from the rest of the onymous with “Made in Italy” around the world; what world. The country bears an abundance of riches, with is your recipe to promote and revamp Italian culture its varied landscapes made up of valleys, mountains, and tradition? coastlines and plains, all of which are tended by farm- The recipe is really simple; showcase the true Italy rathers who work tirelessly to enhance the beauty and re- er than simply its pasta and pizza. We need to stand up, sources of our peninsula. With 50 Unesco sites scat- make noise and share our story and traditions with the tered throughout the country, Italy boasts countless rest of the world. The magnificence of our food needs natural treasures—538 olive cultivars and over 1,200 to be showcased on the same stage as our other culwine varietals to name just a couple. 70% of the world tural wonders, such as art, music and literature. artistic heritage is found in Italy with over 3,400 museums and 2,100 archeological sites and parks. Toss in What led Oscar Farinetti to devote himself to being a the impact of all the civilizations which have crossed tireless champion for Italy, telecasting the beauty of through Italy over the course of history, leaving their our country to the world? footprints of cultural wealth on our land, and you have It was the realization that not enough people were doing an idea of why Italy is one of the truest biodiverse it—I believed that this void presented an opportunity places on earth. which I decided to help address. Each one of us must be an enthusiastic advocate for Italy and all of its beauty.

Why is biodiversity so important?

Because it nurtures a life of creativity—offering end- What is Eataly’s message to the world? less opportunities to express oneself in countless ways Simply that Italy is the country which offers the greatwhile maintaining a deep connection to your roots. est beauty in the world.

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L A C U C I N A A B RU Z Z E S E

AT ‘LA CASCINA’ WITH CHEF/OWNER LUCA

L A C U C I N A A B RU Z Z E S E

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photos by Stephanie Palmer

Luca del Rosso and his wife Sharifa The culinary traditions of Abbruzzo are quintessentially Italian in that they reflect the geography of a land that is cradled by the sea and covered by mountains. Situated in the heart of Italy, close to Rome, its location enabled many invaders and visitors to collectively influence and enrich its traditions. For me, Abruzzo is the spot along the Via Adriatica where we break up our long journey to Southern Italy with a glass of Pecorino, Zuppetta di Pesce or spaghetti alla chitarra, but it is also the place that holds my most treasured memories of my childhood summer vacations.

I grew up in Lazio, a few kilometers from Abbruzzo. Each summer, my family parked our motor home at a campsite by Villetta Barrea, in the Aquila region of Abbruzzo.

The first half of our summer vacation was spent in Villetta and the other half on the opposite coast, at a family beach house in Terracina. I lived for the Villetta half and would have loved to stay in Abbruzzo the entire summer, especially because we often left the mountain town for day trips to the beach. Though it’s been many years, I can remember my way perfectly around the quaint town of Villetta Barrea. My dad used to ask me to go to the barber shop to buy his newspaper, and you could buy nearly any-

thing from the local “alimentari” (grocer).

Most vividly, I remember the flavours and smells of everything we ate those summers. I would wake up early to buy huge loaves of crusty bread, and pickled white anchovies and sandwiches that were made to order with their homemade salame, local mortadella or pecorino. On the camp grounds, my favourite part of the day was the evening when the sounds of popular songs played on a guitar would accompany a huge fire where someone would start grilling bread. Once it was toasted it was rubbed with delicious reddish garlic and drizzled with rich local olive oil as an early evening snack. Later, bread slices were grilled and passed around as the vessel for spicy grilled sausages, arrosticini and lamb chops. I remember being handed all this stuff on napkins with no plates, all salty, spicy and greasy and thinking it was the best thing I’d ever eaten. On weekend evenings we’d go to restaurants in nearby towns.

I was probably seven years old but I would inspect menus for “sagna e fagioli” a dish made of hand cut pasta with beans, garlic and chili. I ordered it every chance I got. As a treat, my mom would always let us have amaretti, confetti or pizzelle filled with a thick plum butter or chocolate, or

by Giovanna Alonzi

23 sweet taralli from the bakeries of nearby towns. My mouth waters just thinking of those summers. Of course my mind is not only filled with culinary memories-- I also remember hot summer afternoons spent in the cool of an old building watching the “teatrino dei burrattini” a marionette show, and hours spent by the river competing with other children at to see who could keep their fingers for the longest period in the cold waters of the Sangro.

We foraged for mushrooms in the Parco Nazionale d’Abbruzzo with my nonno and took long drives through the Gran Sasso tunnel spotting horses, wolves and plenty of sheep along the way. The culinary traditions of Abbruzzo are so rich that it’s hard to narrow them down: the stellar production of Pecorino from Atri, Castel del Monte, Farindola and Serramonascesca, the abundance of primary ingredients such as saffron from Navelli, black truffles, the famous potatoes from Fucino, red Garlic from Sulmona, spelt from Chieti and chestnuts from Monti della Laga in the Valle Castellana or from Roscetta della Valle Rovereto, cicerchia (a particular chick pea like legume), honey, olive oil or sweet peppers from Altino and Campotosto – a virtual embarrassment of riches! In the last decade, the fishing traditions of Abbru-

L A C U C I N A A B RU Z Z E S E zzo have been recognized by the Slow Food movement in a festival called “Cala Lenta” which celebrates all of the products of the Adriatic coast and sea, specifically mediterrean fish, promoting the marvelous scenery and products of the “costa dei Trabocchi”.

Trabocchi are wooden structures erected on pillars on the sea used by fishermen and sometimes transformed into little restaurants that can be reached only by walking on wobbly bridges. The flexible beams on which trabocchi are built tie the farming and fishing traditions of Abbruzzo together. In this edition of T-mag, Luca del Rosso from La Cascina in Toronto offers some of his favourite recipes of Abbruzzo.

“Pallotte Cacio e Ove” is a simple postwar dish that will enable you to use up all of your stale bread in a delicious and nourishing way. “Spaghetti alla Chitarra” with a lamb ragu use the most famous pasta from Abbruzzo with its most popular meat. The “Farro, ceci e Castagne” will be a simple go to dish for those nights when all you need is a one dish meal and a glass of wine. “Arrosticini” will be the hottest item on your barbecue menu this summer. I hope all these recipes will soon become part of your best culinary memories and give Abbruzzo a place in your heart.

For an authentic taste of Abruzzo, visit La Cascina Ristorante, 1552 Avenue Rd, Toronto, lacascina.ca

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RECIPES

① Arrosticini Serves Four

②P allotte Cacio e Ove Serves Four

Ingredients: 600 gr. lamb shoulder

Ingredients: 300 gr. stale bread

Method: Cut the meat into 2 cm cubes and skewer 6 pieces onto each wooden skewer, alternating 400 gr. lamb belly lean and fatty meat to prevent the meat from over drying.

50 wooden skewers, When grilling, bear in mind: 25 cm each in length – Arrosticini are typically cooked in a “Canaletto” or a “furnacell” as it is known in dialect which is a long and slender grill that allows you to grill the meat over charcoal without burning the wooden skewer.

– The heat applied from the charcoal has to be perfectly hot; here lies the real difficulty in making arrosticini- too little heat will result in dryness and too much in burnt meat – Once they are put on the grill they are turned a little and finished with only sea salt.

Method: Soak the bread in water until it becomes soft and uniform.

300 gr. pecorino Squeeze out excess water.

Place in a bowl and mix with 1 cup water eggs, pecorino, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Let 4 eggs the mixture rest for one hour.

Shape dough into walnut size 1 clove garilc balls. Heat e.v.o. in a frying pan and fry balls until golden. Place 1 tbsp minced parsley on absorbent towels to remove excess oil. e.v.o.

Sauce: Heat olive oil in a pan with garlic and red pepper cut salt and pepper into strips. Add sliced tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add Sauce: bread balls, stirring frequently 400 gr. ripe for a few minutes longer. tomatoes, sliced 1 red pepper 1 clove garlic 3 tbsp. of e.v.o.

Salt

25

RECIPES

③ Chitarra al Ragù d’Agnello Serves Four

④ Farro con Ceci e Castagne Serves Four

Ingredients: Method: 350 gr. Chitarra Sautee the minced carrot and pasta or spaghettoni onion in olive oil until it becomes soft and starts to gain 800 gr. ground lamb light colour. Add the ground lamb over high heat and brown 100 ml red wine the meat. Add the red wine, allow it to evaporate and add 2 sprigs rosemary tomatoes. Reduce heat and simmer for about two hours, 2 carrots, minced until the sauce thickens. Add salt and pepper to taste and e.v.o. garnish with rosemary. Cook the pasta in abundant, salted 1 kg. peeled boiling water. Strain, add lamb tomatoes, chopped ragú and serve.

Ingredients: 300 gr. spelt kernels (boil for 15 minutes)

1 onion, minced salt and pepper to taste

2 bunches of rosemary

200 gr. chick peas 1 bay leaf (soak for 10 hours in 1200 ml of water and salt to taste boil for 40 minutes) 1l. vegetable broth 70 gr. Italian (you can boil 1 l of water cleaned chestnuts with ½ an onion, 1 carrot, (boil for 30 minutes) 1 celery stalk, extra virgin olive oil and salt) 1 onion, cut into rings Method: In a pot heat the olive oil with 2 cloves of garlic, the minced garlic, onion rings finely minced and bay leaf. Add the chick peas, 2 cups of broth, and cook e.v.o. for 10 minutes. Add the spelt, chestnuts, 2 cups of broth and salt to taste. Add rosemary and cook for 10 minutes longer, adding some broth if needed.

The final consistency should be that of a creamy risotto.

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by Max Stefanelli

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VINO ABRUZZESE Abruzzo

is comprised of three historical DOCs, including the red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which is not to be confused with the town in Tuscany whose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is made with Sangiovese grapes, like the majority of Tuscans DOCs. Some of the best wines come from the Teramo area, where we find the only DOCG of the region: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane. The Cerasuolo grape, which makes some classic rosé wines, now has its own DOC appellation.

A recent reorganization of region's wine classification system has also brought under the new Abruzzo DOC several interesting, high-quality sub-zones for Montepulciano wines, such as Terre di Casauria, Terre dei Vestini and Alto Tirino.

The Montepulciano grape has gained a substantial following for its fruit-forward, complex yet approachable reds.

The white DOC is the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, this grape is best known for dry, light and easy drinking wines with subtle citrus flavors. However some interesting wines are being developed from the "authentic" Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grape, which some think to be related to Apulia’s Bombino Bianco. Though these wines are hard to come by, they are well worth seeking out.

They are capable of developing in bottle for a few years into wines of great character and complexity (Emidio Pepe or Valentini).

The third DOC is the Controguerra the least known and trickiest to find, also based on Montepulciano with other local grapes.

Other native grape varieties such as Passerina, Cococciola and particularly Pecorino can produce very interesting wines.

Pecorino is in fact Italy’s hottest white wine at the moment. An early-ripening variety that accumulates sugar easily, Pecorino wines are bigger and higher in alcohol than Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Forgotten until the 1980s, the variety was rediscovered in the Marche.

Pecorino wines can be very reminiscent of those made with Sauvignon Blanc, offering aromas and flavors of sage, green fig and winter melon. Pecorino is a mountain variety that likes higher slopes, but cultivated in flatlands now, as well. Your best bet is to stick with Pecorino wines that come from high altitude.

Terroir The long coastline hugging the Adriatic sea and the mountainous interior provide myriad of microclimates and terroirs. The climate is heavily influenced by the Apennine mountain range that runs northsouth down Italy’s middle; Abruzzo’s Gran Sasso massif, at 2,914 meters (9,560 feet) above sea level, is the highest point in the range. It follows that the region’s interior has a continental climate, with frigid, snowy winters and cooler summers, while the coastline is characterized by a temperate Mediterranean climate.

The geology is also highly varied, with marly-clay, sand-rich flysch and limestone soils. Gravels, and alluvial deposits dominate the coastline’s flatland viticultural areas.

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V I N O A B RU Z Z E S E

CATALDI M A D ON N A

Founded in 1920, Cataldi Madonna has been carried forward by three generations of the family. Consisting of just over 65 acres, the estate is home to Abruzzo’s native varietal range and has been bottling its own wines since 1975.

Located in the “oven of Abruzzo”, Cataldi Madonna resides in Ofena, a kind of amphitheater at the foot of the only Apennine glacier on Calderone in the Gran Sasso mountain range. Sitting at an elevation well over 1,000 feet, Cataldi Madonna’s location is a unique intersection of natural gifts which causes significant fluctuation in day and night temperatures, critical to the development of the grapes.

Sir. Luigi Cataldi Madonna with his family and laborers. Ofena, 1928.

2014 Pecorino IGT Terre Aquilane Giulia Cataldi Madonna’s long-term dedication to the Pecorino variety inspired them to develop a high-quality Pecorino expression that was still affordable. The nose is exuberant with fruit notes of passion fruit and grapefruit. On the palate, this wine has a pleasant, bright acidity and a clean, full body, making it dangerously easy to finish a glass. This fresh wine is perfect as an aperitif or as a pairing to fish or crustaceans. “Giulia” is Luigi’s daughter who will be the fourth generation to join the family business.

2013 Malandrino Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC The 2012 Malandrino represents a turning point at Cataldi Madonna. The goal of this shift is a great wine uncontaminated by oak.

The production of this Malandrino is centered around the winery’s historic cement tanks, which have been carefully restored. The result is a sharp and crisp Malandrino which initially shows notes of sour cherry that evolved to ripe, black cherry. On the palate, this wine is quite fresh and dangerously easy to drink while retaining its complexity and flavor. A wine for every meal, Malandrino effortlessly pairs with the Abruzzese cuisine.

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V I N O A B RU Z Z E S E

TO RRE D E I BEATI

The name of the estate is drawn from a detail of a big fresco dating back to 14th century, in the S.Maria in Piano local church.

In the representation of the Judgement Day, the “Tower of the Blessed” (“Torre dei Beati”) is the final goal the souls tend to achieve through hard efforts and proofs.

The farming is organic and the winery is located in Loreto Aprutino. The particular position gives the vineyard a warm wind coming up from the sea during the day, and cold air coming down from the mountain at night, especially during the last month of the maturation, when the Gran Sasso is usually blanketed by the snow.

The harvest is made through repeated pickings in the same plots, each time selecting only the healthiest and ripest bunches, leaving the remaining branches on the plant to mature until the next picking.

The grapes, carefully selected in 20 kilos cases, are immediately brought to the winery, located close to the old farmhouse in the middle of the vineyard, then carefully sorted, selecting only the finest.

2014 'Giocheremo Con i Fiori' Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT

2014 Rosa-Ae Cerasuolo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC This is Montepulciano's first expression for each vintage and the first indicator of its quality. The extremely careful selection in the vineyard and on the sorting table gives the wine good body and maturity, enriched by fresh flavours given by a low temperature fermentation, making for another fine example of Montepulciano's flexibility.

2013 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC An elegant and personal interpretation of the Montepulciano in this territory, obtained from repeated harvests in the same plots of the whole Loreto Aprutino vineyard, followed by a further selection on the sorting table. The use of wood in the ageing phase allows the wine to reach a natural stability, keeping a fruity purity and enriching it with a light, well balanced spicy complexity.

2012 Cocciapazza Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC

It has the ancient, curious name of the area where this vineyard is planted (in the Abruzzo dialect “coccia pazza” means “crazy head”), as it is intended to be the best tradiRecently recovered in this territory. The tional expression of the Montepulciano in gradual harvesting and a traditional, not this land. The repeated harvests, normally intrusive vinification creates this version, which is aimed at expressing Pecorino's fun- three per vintage, are carried out in the plot with the best soil and climate conditions, damental characteristics, exalting, without capable of giving the fullest bodied and exaggerating, the fresh and not banal aromost mature wines. matic complexity and the peculiar tasting profile, where alcohol, acidity and minerality are present in a very good balance.

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Yes please! Photo: @iamsarahpham

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terronito Cosimo & his friend Paolo opened the first Terroni location on Queen West in 1992.

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NOW YOU C AN BUY POPUL AR TERRONI PRODUCTS ONLINE AND HAVE THEM DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOUR DOOR labottegaditerroni.com

TONY COBB, THE HIGH PRIEST OF COD

F O G O IS L A N D

Tony Cobb, together with his wife Janice Thomson, is on a mission to revitalize the fishing communities on Fogo Island one cod at a time. 24 years after the last corporate run fish factory closed down in 1992, their company Fogo Island Fish (a charitable project of the Shorefast Foundation), has seen the success of a first season of a new sustainable fishing industry on the island. For 3 weeks in late summer 2015, 33 local fishers went out in the waters within a 5km radius of the island and fished from 20 feet open wooden boats using the centuries old “hook & line” method; a single hook, a single line, a single fish hauled up one at a time by hand. Fogo Island Fish broke with tradition by paying the fishers a premium and delivering the fresh, clean and flavourful cod directly to a select number of ethically minded restaurants across Toronto, including Terroni.

Born and raised on Fogo Island (now residing in Toronto), Tony grew up in one of the small fishing communities that dot this 235 km2 island just north of Newfoundland. His dad was a fisherman but quit in 1967 when he could no longer provide for his family on his wages from cod trap fishing for the big corporate fisheries.

Fogo Island is best known these days for the magnificent Fogo Island Inn on the north coast in Joe Batt’s Arm. Funded by tech millionaire Zita Cobb (Tony’s older sister), the 29 room award winning Inn opened in 2013 and is viewed as a cornerstone success story in community revitalization.

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by Stephanie Palmer

35

F O G O IS L A N D

And while Tony fondly promotes the Inn wherever he goes, cod is king for him. Recently T-Mag spent the day with Tony, swapping stories about the centuries old cod trade between the new world (Newfoundland) and the old world (Italy and her neighbouring European nations), as he and Janice cooked up a delicious traditional Fogo Island dish called The Fisherman’s Breakfast.

A simple plate of salt cod (soaked for hours) cooked in cream, onions and fresh cracked pepper, served with partridge berry jam, mashed potatoes, poached egg and homemade bread with rosemary butter. Tony recalls that growing up, every home on the island started their day with a similar meal. For us, it reminds us of the traditional Italian ‘baccalà’ dishes we watched our Nonnas prepare.

First fished in the cold North Atlantic waters off the coast of Newfoundland by the Vikings almost 3000 years ago, cod became an important international trading commodity in the 17th century and as a result became a traditional ingredient in the cuisine of Europe, the Mediterranean, West Africa and the Caribbean. All over Italy, salt cod (baccalà) prepared countless ways became a staple especially on Fridays when the Catholic Church forbid the consumption of meat.

Look for Fogo Island Cod featured on our daily specials menu and check out the Inn on Fogo Island to book your next adventure fogoislandinn.ca

Retail Store Visit Nella Cucina, located in the heart of Toronto’s Annex, for your complete culinary experience. Shop here for an immense selection of products ranging from cookware, kitchen electrics, cutlery, bakeware and more. Nella Cucina offers professional quality kitchen tools for culinary enthusiasts of all levels.

Cooking School In addition to the retail boutique, Nella Cucina has a state-of-the-art commercial kitchen for hosting cooking classes and private events. Whether you’re in need of team building or independent growth, Nella Cucina offers a range of concepts to curate your culinary whims.

To book a cooking class or a private event contact events@nellacucina.ca

Nella Cucina - 876 Bathurst St, Toronto, 416 922 9055 www.nellacucina.ca or follow us: /nellacucinatoronto @nellacucina nellacucina

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