T Magazine No. 14

LIGURIA

Renzo Piano: the architect of light and his controversial approach to architecture

Let us guide you through the Italian Riviera

Genova, the maritime capital of Italy

Renato Cerisola, the photo painter

Artigianato: the peculiar traditions of Liguria plus the art of farming in Prince Edward County

CUCINA LIGURE

Giovanna Alonzi on Ö Magazín Restaurant and her recipes from Liguria

A spotlight on Spaccio West

PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Elena di Maria

Mammoliti

ART DIRECTOR

Francesco Danilo

Di Leo

DEPUTY EDITOR

PUBLISHER LETTER

I am truly excited to be opening 2023 with a fresh issue of Terroni Magazine after a long pause due to Covid-19. I hope you enjoy it!

Issue 14 takes you on a trip to Liguria, the little strip of coastline overlooked by the Alps situated in the north-west part of Italy. Famous for its Cinque Terre, Portofino and Pesto, Liguria, with its Italian Riviera, has so much to offer. We take you for a stroll through Genova, the capital city of Liguria with an ancient history. We examine the works of world renowned Ligurian architect Renzo Piano and sit down with Genova-born photographer Renato Cerisola to learn more about his work.

With each issue I introduce you to a different region with the intent of digging deeper and highlighting the characteristics and peculiarities typical of each territory. Tradition unmistakably sits at the root of everything and I love to discover the characteristics of a region through the long-standing heritage of its local craftsmanship. Fratelli Levaggi handcraft the timeless Chiavarine Chairs, while at Effe Erre the art of filigree is applied in the creation of classical pieces as well as modern ones.

There is so much to see in this temperate land with fields yielding amazing produce, mountains where cows are put to pasture and long summers for amazing beach vacations. Liguria is the land of Taggiasche olives, Pesto and Farinata and fresh fish. Chef Giovanna Alonzi spent time with our friend Simona at her seaside restaurant Ö Magazín in the bay of Portofino. We also introduce you to the winemaking of Liguria.

Two more things I am very proud to be featuring: Dear friend Nick Sorbara and his sustainable farming in PEC as well as Mealshare, the social enterprise we partner with that helps fight youth hunger.

Thank you so much for reading, I am grateful for your continued support. If you have any questions, suggestions, or interesting experiences in Liguria, I'd love to hear from you! Please, email us at megan@terroni.com.

Truly yours,

Elena di Maria Mammoliti VP Marketing

MANY THANKS TO

Karina Watson

Small Project Studio

Francesco Giorgio

Simona Mammoliti

Ruben Rapetti

Priyangsha Chittaranjan

GUEST PHOTOGRAPHY

Stephanie Palmer

COPY EDITOR

David Morin

James Sippert INQUIRIES &

CONTRIBUTORS

Giovanna Alonzi

Giovanna (Gio) Alonzi is originally from Lazio, Italy and is the Executive Chef of Sud Forno. Above all, Gio appreciates a good bowl of Tortellini in Brodo, pizza and bread, random kindness and a good laugh. For these reasons she loves her job. In her time off, she’s an avid runner, no matter the weather, and loves exploring the Ontario countryside with her children Matti and Ali before going home to her partner Fabio’s crescentine and an ice-cold beer.

Cucina Ligure, P.25

Francesca Cordova

After spending 2 years as part of the marketing team for Terroni, Francesca has moved to Milan to pursue a Master’s in Food Design and Innovation to follow a career in the sustainability aspect of hospitality.

Genova P.4

Mealshare P.36

Sol Korngold

Sol Korngold is a Montreal native who shares his time between Toronto and Prince Edward County, where he recently launched The Royal Hotel. Sol also loves to cook and plays percussion in an under-appreciated Dad band.

Artisans of Canada P.11

Filippo Cordova

Filippo Cordova is an Italian-Canadian writer born and raised in Rome. Seeing the beauty and rich history of Italy first hand, he hopes to convey his passion and pride through his writing. What to see in Liguria P.14

Megan Woodhouse

Megan is a Zimbabwean born wannabe Italian who shares a home and dubious sofa with her human, James. She loves words, everyday magic and pasta. Her proudest accomplishments include moving to Canada, alone, mid-pandemic and that one time her boss called her Shakespeare.

Artisans of Liguria P.8

Spaccio West P.33

Yachting in Liguria P.34

Instagram P.39

Sandra Colosimo

An experienced Sales and Marketing professional and a certified Sommelier with the renowned Associazione Italiana Sommelier (AIS). Sandra has had the privilege of training and working in one of the greatest wine regions of the world. She lived in Italy for over 20 years and is passionate about Italian food, wine and culture. Vino della Liguria, P.31

Robby Vrenozi

Robby Vrenozi was the Marketing and Communications Manager for Terroni for a little over three years. Although no longer an official part of the Terroni family, unofficially she will always be a Terrona at heart.

Renzo Piano P.18

Jessica Allen

JA is a writer and the correspondent on CTV’s The Social. She used to be an assistant editor at Maclean’s Magazine, a national columnist at Metro, and, most importantly, a dishwasher at Terroni.

Index P.3

2,500,000

Number of tourists annually who visit Liguria’s Cinque Terre

5,000

Number of residents living in the Cinque Terre

1,551,000 Population of Liguria

689,876

Population of its capital, Genova

192,000

At time of press, number of Instagram posts tagged #ItalianRiviera

1922 Year in which The Enchanted April, often credited with making the Italian Riviera’s Portofino a jet-set location, was published

350

Total kilometres of coastline in Liguria

80%

Percentage of the Ligurian population that lives near the coast

4 million Annual capacity of ferry passengers at the Port of Genova, the busiest in Italy

6 hours Time in hours it takes the average hiker to walk between its five villages

5,092 Euros Price in Euros of a junior suite (sea view with balcony, breakfast included) at the Belmond Hotel Splendido, which overlooks the bay of Portofino, in August

4 Number of times Elizabeth Taylor honeymooned at Hotel Splendido

3

3

1944

Number of the most prestigious figures of the Risorgimento who were born in Liguria

1484-1486

Year that Botticelli painted The Birth of Venus, for which local Ligurian beauty Simonetta Vespucci, may have modelled for

1435

Year that Leon Battista Alberti, born in Genova— and the prototype of the Renaissance Man—codified Filippo Brunelleschi’s rediscovery of one-point linear perspective

3 Number of years Marco Polo spent in a Genovese prison in which time he dictated his adventures

Cost in euros to visit the house of Christopher Columbus in Genova

4 Number of popes from Genova

12th to 14th Centuries in which the Republic of Genova rivalled Venice and Pisa as a major powerhouse in the Mediterranean

3

Number of wines from Liguria available at Cavinona

1824

Year that the first commercial pasta factory, in Liguria’s Pontedassio, was built in an old mill

1876

Year in which “pesto” first appears in a Genovese Italian dictionary

Year in which the New York Times first mentions pesto

2005

Year that basil from Genova—Basilico Genovese—got its protected origin denomination (POD)

Number of family recipes for pesto Genovese with slight variations

19th Century in which ravioli is mentioned in a Ligurian cookbook as being invented in Liguria

Any time Time of the day Ligurians typically eat focaccia

Genovese (but often during breakfast, alongisde a cappuccino)

ROMAGNA

PARCO NAZ. DI CINQUE TERRE

GENOVA

CAPITAL CITY OF LIGURIA

Genova, commonly known in English as Genoa, the capital city of Liguria, is home to one of the oldest and most active commercial ports in Europe and a plethora of industrial operations, making the bustling city a magnet for cutting-edge scientific development. It's no coincidence that even back in 1358 poet Francesco Petrarca named it “La Superba” (the magnificent). Genova is the birthplace of many world-renowned intellectuals, including Nobel Prize for Literature winner Eugenio Montale, architect Renzo Piano, astronaut Franco Malerba, industrialist Enrico Piaggio, mostly known for creating Vespa, and poet and singer Fabrizio de Andrè, whose songs are still sulla bocca di tutti.

Genova grew from a Roman fishing village to a major trading centre used by Greek and Etruscan merchants for their exchanges. From the beginning of the 12th century, it provided ships for several Crusades and, by the Medieval period, Genova had become one of the four most powerful Maritime Republics, chal-

Genova is a city that defies time, seamlessly blending the past and the present with its rich, ever-evolving skyline. All that remains is for you to see it for yourself.

lenging the likes of Venice for power and control of the Mediterranean Sea. To this day it is still one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean sea trade. Shipbuilding and banking helped build one of the largest and most powerful navies in that area and, along with textiles and petroleum, are still the major industries in today's Ligurian economy. Two of the earliest banks in the world were founded in Genova in the 15th century: Banco di San Giorgio, founded in 1407, which was the oldest chartered bank in the world at the time of its closure in 1805 and the Banca Carige, founded in 1483 and which still exists today.

When strolling through the Strade Nuove (“the new streets”), in the city's downtown core, you will be amazed at the beauty and splendour of the architectural treasures known as the Palazzi dei Rolli. This collection of 42 noble palaces, added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2006, was built in the Renaissance and Baroque styles between the 16th and 18th Centuries as private residences of the most important aristocratic

GENOVA

families of the time. They were so magnificent and spacious that they replaced the role of the courts in hosting illustrious guests such as ambassadors, cardinals and feudal lords when invited to visit the city by the state. Today, some of the Palazzi dei Rolli are still private residences, while others have become headquarters of banks, offices or museums (Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Doria Tursi). On two weekends of the year, in spring and fall, all palaces open their doors for the public to admire their beauty and architectural magnificence.

Alongside this rich architectural history, Genova has also modernized itself through the creation of new structures of great architectural significance and the renovation of old ones. The new face of the Porto Antico (Old Port) District includes the Aquario di Genova or Aquarium of Genoa and the futuristic glass and steel Biosphere bubble. These sleek constructions make for a captivating architectural landscape especially juxtaposing ancient structures like The

Lighthouse of Genova, commonly known as Lanterna which was built in 1128 and continues to operate after 9 centuries.

Planning a visit? Immerse yourself in the architecture of this maritime powerhouse at Palazzo Grillo. Housed in what was once one of the Palazzi dei Rolli built in 1545, this 4* hotel is resplendent with carefully restored original details from frescoes to epigraphs. If you’re looking to experience the new face of Genova try The NH Collection Genova Marina designed by Renzo Piano, the man behind the modernisation of Porto Antico. The hotel is built on stilts with contemporary rooms overlooking the harbor.

Genova is a city that defies time, seamlessly blending the past and the present with its rich, ever-evolving skyline. All that remains is for you to see it for yourself.

Hotels links: hotelpalazzogrillo.it nh-hotels.com/hotel/nh-collection-genova-marina

Top left: Piazza De Ferrari. Bottom left: Palazzo Grillo.

Right: People enjoying a passeggiata in old town Genoa.

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THE ARTISANS OF LIGURIA: A LEGACY OF LUXURY

Today Liguria is a coastal tourist hub, famed for its diverse landscape, picturesque coastal villages and being the birthplace of pesto, but this region's artisans offer a window into an opulent history. Goldsmiths, master carpenters and those who work in silk, velvet and silver filigree make up some of Liguria's oldest craftsmen, many working to preserve their craft as automation becomes commonplace in modern production.

Genova, the capital city of Liguria has long been one of the most important ports in the region. The city, once ruled by a succession of noble families became a hub for wealthy merchants, navigators and visiting royalty. These aristocrats invested heavily in their homes, commissioning Baroque and Renaissance artists and architects to build their palaces. These Palazzo Rolli (Noble Palaces) have been designated World Heritage Sites for their architecture and decoration. Not to be outdone, various coastal towns, most notably Portofino, have been attracting the rich and royal for centuries, with castles dotting the countryside. With this in mind, it comes as no surprise that so many of Liguria’s Artisans are specialists in luxury goods.

Elena Di Maria and Megan Woodhouse

SEDIE CHIAVARINE (CHIAVARI CHAIRS) BY FRATELLI LEVAGGI

Fratelli Levaggi has been handcrafting Chiavari chairs from their workshop in Genoa for three generations. In the workroom, senior carpenters work alongside the youngest, supporting their creativity and teaching them the expertise that has been handed down through the family. The craftsmen hand-make each chair with a focus on timeless design that defies style and fits easily into any interior.

Every step is done in-house - from felling the tree to the final painting. The wood - Beech, Cherry, Ash and Maple - is sourced in the Ligurian Apennines. Each piece of wood is then left to season for 2 to 5 years before being individually evaluated. Its grain and peculiarities are taken into account to ensure that the final design best exhibits its unique personality. Manufacture begins only after the wood is perfectly dry. The

wood is first moulded with the help of manually controlled tools, then finished by hand to ensure perfection in every product. The chair’s woven seat is made by hand, using Indonesian rush which is assembled directly to the chair, adding to its distinct style and craftsmanship.

The first Chiavari chair was created by Giuseppe Gaetano Descalzi, a cabinet maker. It was immediately evident that the chair was unique: modern, minimal and light but structurally sound and robust. It was said that Descalzi threw the chair out a window to test itit bounced off the ground and did not break, showing the craftsmanship behind the item. Since then, it has been used at integral moments in history by figureheads such as Napoleon III, Francis I of Bourbon, and more recently at the White House during the famous meeting between Reagan and Gorbachev. To this day, this chair is still a classic piece of Italian design. levaggisedie.it

SILKS AND VELVETS BY TESSITURA GAGGIOLI (GAGGIOLI WEAVING)

By the 1500s the town of Zoagli (Genova), was known for its master silk and velvet weavers whose business boomed with maritime trade. Whilst hand-woven fabrics were driven nearly extinct by industrialisation, Tessitura Gaggioli under the direction of Giuseppe Gaggioli, Maestro d'Arte e Mestiere, continues to create some of the world’s most expensive fabric. The Gaggioli family workshop produces damask with a thread count of over 12,000/m, some of which are so complex they can only weave 30cm per day. The most intricate is “Soprarizzo velvet” which takes over 250 hand and foot movements to produce a single centimetre. These fabrics are made only on request. Alongside their 400-year-old handlooms, they have modified mechanical looms to produce fabric almost comparable to those made by hand. tessituragaggioli.it

SILVER FILIGREE BY EFFE-ERRE

Filigree is a technique of modelling silver wire, stemming from the Middle East in the 3rd Century B.C. The art spread to Italy in the late Roman period, flourishing during the Baroque years and returning to popularity in the 19th and 20th Centuries. Effe-Erre, located in Campo Ligure (Genova), blends the ancient art of hand-weaving silver with modern equipment to create intricate jewellery and items for religious worship. Today Effe-Erre is keeping filigree alive by combining traditional techniques with modern tastes. Their process is a scrupulous one, taking the pure silver through seven stages before it is ready to be worn. Religious articles remain a cornerstone of the business carrying on the tradition that first bought filigree to popularity. More recently, Effe-Erre was selected by Fendi to represent Liguria in a series of 20 bags to represent Italy’s regional artisans. Fendi’s Hand in Hand collection showcases a one-of-a-kind version of their iconic baguette bag created entirely from silver filigree. They were also chosen to create the trophies for the 72nd Sanremo Festival of Music (learn more on page 16). effe-erre.com

VICOSOUVENIR

Playing a role in the preservation of Ligurian craftsmanship is Vicosouvenir, which combines clothing (a nod to Liguria’s textile history) with clever takes on streetwear and souvenirs, many of which pay homage to the artisans who came before them. Its mission is to ‘tell Italy through design,’ creating useful, high-quality objects that reflect local tradition. Divided into collections, each tells a different story and focuses on a new concept such as ‘The Urbanist’ collection which takes inspiration from graffiti text and ‘Fru’, which utilizes typical seafaring materials from rope to water-resistant fabric, usually used in boating sails, to create stylish accessories. vicosouvenir.com

Top right: Purse for Fendi and Sanremo Festival of Music trophy made by Effe-Erre Filigree. Bottom: Vicosouvenir's products.

THE TASTE OF TRADITION:

Nick Sorbara and I were in our fifth week of night classes at the George Brown Culinary school when he decided that we should do a proper English Sunday roast at his place. I arrived at his house early on Sunday to get started. Nick always had a few things on the go, so I wasn’t surprised to see the stack of books piled high on his dining room table; a clear sign that he was gearing up for his next thing.  Nick was deep in planning for the first Spring planting of a commercial organic garden at his family farm in Prince Edward County. The rest is a magical journey for this urban guy turned rural gardener.

The books covered everything from the economics of subsistence farming and the South Eastern Ontario microclimate to crop rotations and pesticide-free practices. He had begun hand-sketching the garden layout on sheets of taped together paper. Envelopes of seeds with pictures of every variety of vegetable were scattered about the room.

Nick Sorbara, Edwin County Farms, Prince Edward County

It was over a perfectly cooked roast with Yorkshire pudding that Nick shared his ideas and passion for what was ahead. He filled the room with promise. The establishment of a commercial organic farm would be no small feat, but my sense is that it was the challenge that got him excited in the first place. These are the people you want in your life, the ones that jump right in.

Since that Sunday night, almost four years ago, Nick and his wife, Claire, have sold their Toronto home and moved to the County. And in that time, Nick and his brother Lucas have firmly established Edwin County Farms as one of the notable organic growers in the region. I’ve often heard Terroni’s owner, Cosimo, talk of the importance of ‘materia prima’: that the foundation

of anything delicious starts with the best ingredients. But what goes into growing the tastiest head of lettuce or the sweetest tomato? I’m convinced it’s more than healthy soil, fresh water and sun. Nick’s passion and heart are embodied in every facet of the farm. And thankfully for us, you can taste it in every bite.

Edwin County Farms currently supplies a very impressive roster of restaurant clients in Prince Edward County, including The Royal, a year-round boutique hotel and spa recently launched in the heart of Prince Edward County.

edwincountyfarms.ca

WHAT TO SEE IN

LIGURIA

Hugging the warm Ligurian Sea in the North of Italy is a land of rugged beauty, where mountains meet the water and history meets the present day in a definition-defying symphony that makes the region a must-visit for anyone who dreams of exploring Italy.

A PHOTO-WORTHY VACATION

① Cinque Terre

We cannot mention Liguria without the Cinque Terre or “5 Lands” that have long been considered Liguria’s crowning glory. Those seeking a beach getaway should head to Monterosso, the largest of the towns known for its extensive beaches, while wine lovers might want to prioritise Corniglia, perched over the sea surrounded by vineyards. Vernazza is considered to be one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, with each building painted in a bright and unique colour, while Manarola is known for its unique Christmas nativity scene and elaborate lights display built into the countryside. Finally, there is Riomaggiore, the oldest of the Cinque Terre known for its take on Ligurian cuisine, in particular, “turta de risu” a salted rice cake traditionally prepared for the feast of St John the Baptist.

② Portofino

This small coastal town on the Italian riviera is where worlds truly collide. It is not unusual to find humble fishermen touting the day’s catch alongside the Ferrari driving rich and famous. The city with its, brightly coloured buildings that centre around a crystalline bay offers something for everyone. Discover ancient Roman roads and 10th century buildings, spot celebrities between dips in the warm ocean, dine on elegant dishes inspired by local cuisine or explore the unspoiled marine life from a kayak, boat tour or diving excursion or hike through the surrounding regional park.

FOR NATURE LOVERS

③ Palmaria Island

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Cinque Terre, Portovenere and smaller is-

lands Tino and Tinetto, Palmaria island is a must-visit for nature lovers. With fewer than 50 residents and no cars, the island offers respite from the bustling Cinque Terre and a chance to admire the spectacular coastline. The island, accessible by ferry, boasts over 500 species of flora as well as diverse wildlife and the fossils of Pleistocene animals discovered in the Cave of Pigeons.

④ Alpi Liguri Natural Regional Park

Established in 2007, the 6000-hectare National Park is wedged on the border of Liguria and France and offers spectacular views of the Ligurian coastline. The park’s landscape is populated by unique species of plants and wildlife that have stemmed from the rare meeting of Mediterranean and Alpine climates such as coastal lizards, alongside mountain-dwelling Black Grouse.

⑤ Trekking

Liguria is synonymous with some of the greatest trekking and hiking trails in the world. The diverse landscape offers trails for everyone from beginners to experts, each accompanied by breathtaking views. “Sentiero Azzurro”, considered the best trekking trail, is a 12km hiking trip that tours its followers through green hills with seaside vistas on a path that offers trekkers a stop in each of the famed Cinque Terre. Those who grow tired along the trail can pause at various scenic points along the way, taking in the breathtaking scenery while they sip on something refreshing.

⑥ Sanremo

No trip to Liguria is complete without visiting Sanremo, The City of Flowers, named for its historic flower cultivation and festival “Sanremo in Fiore” which takes place on the last Sunday of January every year. Yet, ask any Italian what they know about Sanremo, and their answer will undoubtedly be the “Sanremo Music Festival'', a celebration of Italy’s musical talent broadcast to millions of Italians since 1951.

Check out our article on page 10 to learn more about the people who created this year’s Sanremo festival trophies along with the photo of Italian music legends Gianni Morandi and Jovanotti with their award.

FOR HISTORY BUFFS

⑦ San Fruttuoso Abbey

San Fruttuoso Abbey is tucked away in a small bay with the waves lapping just steps from the abbey’s doors. Built in the 10th Century as a humble abbey for Benedictine Monks, the abbey was adopted as a den for seafaring pirates before coming into the possession of the Doria, an ancient noble Genovese family, in the 13th century. They constructed the beautiful loggia facing the sea which can still be seen today.

⑧ Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno is famed for its haunting sculptures of mourners, angels and skulls that intersperse with tombstones and family crypts. Officially opened in 1851, the site has become the final resting place of everyone from middle-class Genovese, to Giuseppe Mazzini, who spearheaded the Italian revolutionary movement, and even many non-Italian personalities, including Constance Lloyd, wife of Oscar Wilde. Once visited by famed personalities including philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, and writers such as Ernest Hemingway and Mark Twain, the cemetery is considered one of the most important open-air museums in Europe.

RENZO PIANO THE ARCHITECT OF LIGHT

If you’ve never heard of the internationally acclaimed architect Renzo Piano, the above quotation effectively summarizes the individual, his work and his philosophy. From the much debated Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris to the avant-garde Kansai International Airport in Osaka, and the unconventional Museum of the Beyeler Foundation in Basel, the Italian architect is famous for not shying away from change. Rather, he grounds his work in it.

But why are we so interested in getting to know Renzo Piano?

The Renzo Piano Building Workshop (RPBW), the namesake’s architectural firm, is currently working on the new design of the Toronto Courthouse. The building will be RPBW's first development in Canada, as well as our chance to get to know the architect that will permanently place his signature on our city’s skyline.

Descendant of a family of builders, Piano never forgot his roots. In fact, the word “building” in his firm’s name is an homage to his late father, as well as his upbringing. Born in Genova on September 14, 1937, Piano always felt a pull to the family trade and

Robby Vrenozi

“Changes are never easy to swallow. Changes are making trouble. If architecture is a mirror to that change, we can't expect that to be approved immediately by everybody.”

he followed that calling all the way to the Polytechnic University in Milan, graduating in 1964. Today the internationally acclaimed architect has offices in his native Genova, Paris and New York, but at heart, he is still the little boy who marvelled at buildings.

Dubbed “The Architect of Light,” Piano masterfully marries his work with the surrounding elements. Natural light, flexibility and transparency are common themes found across his work. But don’t let this fool you, surrounding elements does not mean surrounding infrastructure.

Starting with the project that landed him on the international scene, the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, Piano chose to set his creations apart from the surrounding architecture. Built between 1971 and 1977, the Centre Georges Pompidou was made to look like an “urban machine,'' where colourful air ducts and elevators alongside the building’s exoskeleton give the overall structure a unique and playful appearance. The futuristic design sparked a heated debate within the architectural community, with many questioning whether the Centre Georges Pompidou belonged in the heart of Paris beside structures like the Louvre and Notre-Dame Cathedral. Although experts have yet to reach a consensus on this matter, we can say with confidence that it delivered on the objectives set forth by its architect. It brought about change as well as a muchneeded revitalization of the deteriorated area of the

Beaubourg quarter.

Today the Centre Georges Pompidou is an internationally renowned landmark that draws in  millions of tourists and aspiring architects year over year. One building revitalized a whole quarter.

Following in the footsteps of the Pompidou, the Shard, also known as the Shard London Bridge, created similar controversy. Completed in 2012, the Shard is a 72-storey pyramidal tower located beside London Bridge Station. This light-filled, glass structure houses offices, restaurants, public spaces, a hotel halfway through the building and private residences at the top. Eight sloping “extra-white” glass facades (the “shards”) rise 787 feet above street level and disappear into the London skyline, making this building the tallest in England, as well as western Europe. The development was met with adamant criticism by the English Heritage Society who claimed the building would be "a shard of glass through the heart of historic London." To the critics’ credit, the building is indeed a shard of glass piercing through the heart of the city. To Piano’s credit, it's an innovative piece of architecture that once again proposes change. Unlike the surrounding landscape, the Shard is a “living” structure that reflects back upon London elements.

Although the unorthodox motivates much of his work, not all RPBW designs are controversial. That is the case of the NEMO, National Centre for Science and

Top Left: Renzo Piano portrait.

Bottom left: Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, France.

Top right: The Whitney Museum, New York. Bottom right: New Toronto Courthouse, Canada.

Technology in Amsterdam, Netherlands. NEMO presented a challenge for the architect as it had to be built on top of a tunnel. Piano was commissioned to design a building monumental in its simplicity. Having visited the proposed development site, Piano decided to create a ship-like structure that seems to rise from the water of the surrounding harbour allowing the existing tunnel to flow beneath it. Oxidised copper cladding was chosen for the facade due to its technical properties whilst also symbolising the application of science and technology in architecture. The exterior is green in every sense of the word with a rooftop garden acting as insulation and reducing energy consumption. The vast, open inside of the museum is illuminated by natural light that offers warmth to its Spartan design. The walls are neutral grey, the staircase is designed for optimum orientation and the windows are minimal to focus your concentration on the exhibitions. Renzo Piano refers to this concept as “the noble factory”, a counterbalance to the building’s striking exterior. Uncontroversial? Yes. Unoriginal? Not by a long shot.

Regardless of the many international accolades, Piano has never strayed too far from his native Genova. Following the heartbreaking collapse of the Morandi Overpass in August of 2018 which resulted in the death of 43 people, Piano pledged to build his city a brand new bridge for free out of a sense of civic spirit. "It will be a beautiful bridge," he said. "A very Genoese bridge.

Simple but not trivial. A steel bridge, safe and durable. Because bridges do not have to collapse." From this great tragedy and the desire to rebuild and restart immediately came a wider objective - that of building a new bridge capable of transforming the entire area of Val Polcevera. The construction of the bridge was accompanied by calls for tenders for works of urban, social and environmental regeneration. In addition, a new public park was created that, by way of a memorial, commemorates the victims of the collapse and restores the natural ecosystem of Val Polcevera.

An internationally acclaimed architect and an honourable man who gives back to his community, Toronto is lucky to receive a Renzo Piano original. Complete with a 20m tall atrium and highly reflective, transparent glass facade, Piano's design aims to reflect the diversity and ideals of Toronto, producing a modern, and accessible image of justice. The space will link to the east portico of Osgoode Hall, connecting Piano's design with the 180 year old existing structure and I, for one, cannot wait to see what it looks like.

Other Renzo Piano Notable Works: San Nicola Football Stadium, Bari, Italy; One Sydney Harbour, Sydney, Australia; The Potsdamer Platz Reconstruction, Berlin, Germany; Children's Surgical Hospital, Entebbe, Uganda; Isola della Musica, Hanoi, Vietnam and The Whitney Museum, New York, USA. rpbw.com

Top: Ponte Morandi in Genova, Italy. Bottom left: NEMO, National Centre for Science and Technology in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Bottom right: San Nicola Football Stadium in Bari, Italy. Photo taken by Antonio Scarcelli.

RENATO CERISOLA: PAINTING WITH LIGHT

Italy and extraordinary art have always been synonymous. We sat down with award-winning photographer and long-time friend of Elena, Renato Cerisola to discover more about the man who has captured everything from Euro Disney to The Vatican and in the process has developed a technique painting with the camera, bringing modern technology and Italy’s artistic heritage closer than ever before.

We know that you are Genova born, but tell us a bit more about yourself?

The Genovese know no half-measures - they are either sailors or alpine climbers. I chose the mountains from an early age, only to marry a Roman and stay there. But Genova remains in my heart. If I could choose, I would live in Camogli, but also in Trento or Toronto.

How did you go from being a geologist to an awardwinning photographer?

I have always felt divided between two passions, art and science, but in 2000 art finally won. Geology and

science are and have always been of great interest to me, but creativity is a part of me - my way of being, seeing, thinking and doing.

You have an immense range of projects and subject matter where many photographers choose to focus on one specific area. How do you decide on your subjects and which projects to take on?

I could never be a specialised photographer because I do not have any formal training or even an apprenticeship, but also because I am not interested in merely documenting. I research the beauty and fascination in everything. The fact that every job I do is different is what keeps my curiosity, my empathy and the freshness of my approach alive.

You have developed a unique technique of painting with your camera. Was it the result of a long-time study or is it something that just came to you?

Photopainter? By chance! I was in Giverny but I found the facade of the cathedral was being restored and half-

covered in scaffolding. What to do? I experimented with the camera and found that, by moving it a certain way, the scaffolding had disappeared whilst the embrace of the golden evening light on the austere forms of the cathedral had remained. Amazed and fascinated, I could not help but walk the road that had opened before me.

When I look at your work, I see art reminiscent of the Impressionist painters, particularly Monet, in the way you capture light and motion. Are you influenced by this movement or any?

My mom always took me with her to see museums and exhibitions. As a child, looking at a picture, I knew who had painted it. This school has given me a lot and, combined with a natural predisposition, it has been my personal training path. The Impressionists, in particular Monet, have certainly fascinated and even moved me, but in reality, in every great period, I find artists who inspire me.

Talk to us about some of your biggest projects

Disney: Euro Disney needed to refresh their brand and started an international search for a photographer. Eventually, they chose me.

The Vatican Museums: I was selected to redesign the website, with photos and videos. Usually, the Vatican chooses to share their works of art and spaces. In this project, we were able to explore the human element. ENI: When celebrating their 50th anniversary, they chose me to create a photographic book, the result of which was so much appreciated that they chose to indicate only the name of the author on the cover!

Who or what inspires you?

If I have to choose a theme, I go back to water. I began my career with the great success of an exhibition dedicated to the streams of Trentino (See Issue 12), exhibited in Rome and then taken abroad. Whenever the opportunity arises, I return to photograph water.

What advice would you give to young photographers who are starting out and hoping to build a career in photography?

Today photography is essential - we are all photographers. But it is equally true that the images tend to be all the same, and that the overall quality is drastically lowering. I always tell students not to conform, not to feel satisfied, not to get tired, but to exercise their eyes, gaze and curiosity. Work to bring home images that are as simple and effective as possible. In a good shot, there must be neither too many elements nor too few. They must be in balance with each other. To make progress today in the inflated, saturated, in many ways dying world of photography, we need to develop a new, original, strong language.

Where can people see and buy your work digitally and physically? Do you have any new work or shows coming up soon?

Last summer I directed, edited and took all the pictures for a documentary in three episodes called "Faces of the Gospels.” The narrative voice of the Pope is accompanied by images of works from the Vatican Museums and manuscripts from the Vatican Apostolic Library.

renatocerisola.com

O MAGAZ Í N

When I think of Liguria, two very different memories come to mind. The first is from a very hot August day in Monterosso - Cinque Terre. The rocky, steep cliffs pierce the Ligurian sea under a striking sun as I navigate an ocean of people with a heavy (fat) baby strapped to me. The heat is unforgiving, the goal is survival and I pour water over my head while I strip, walk and try to escape what feels like a volcano stroll.  The second is from my childhood and feels starkly different. Here, my mind is filled by the sounds of the sea that cradled my afternoon naps.  I can hear the remote sounds of children playing on the beach and the sound of people washing their lunch dishes to the smell of espresso in the sleepy coastal town of Riva Trigoso. This memory is exactly what came to mind a while back when I spoke to Simona Mussini from Ristorante Ö Magazín in Portofino.  The restaurant was born from her dad’s old fishing shop and bears the name of the original spot. Her whole family worked together to build it; they recycled materials from boats and fishing equipment to make furniture and décor. They devised a menu that speaks magic from its simplicity: tradi-

tional Ligurian fare at its best with Mussini family flair. The daily fish is obtained from a local fisherman and the antipasti are made fresh from the daily catch. The menu sports Trenette (typical Ligurian pasta) in a perfectly traditional pesto but also a version they invented with cream and tomato sauce. Their frittura - the mixed fried fish - is typically fragrant and crispy. The dessert is fresh gelato made daily by Simona’s husband in their gelateria. Everything is served flawlessly and without substitutions, in line with their taste and Ligurian culture.

Liguria is a region driven by tourism but it adheres fiercely to its traditions and this is reflected in its best eateries.  There is no toying with its crispy golden chickpea farinata or the deliciously oily focaccia. Salted anchovies, olives and fried fresh fish still make up the favoured antipasti of locals and non. Handmade Trofie (traditional Ligurian pasta) with pesto are on every menu as well as rotating secondi made from the daily catch.

In this edition of T-Mag we have created a menu that will bring you all the flavours of Liguria anywhere you

Giovanna Alonzi

may be. Our Farinata will be as crispy and delicious as the irresistible original snack. The Gattafin (a fried Raviolo filled with rich bitter greens and cheese) will keep you coming back for more. The Linguine alle Acciughe e Pinoli (Linguine with Anchovies and Pinenuts) will make an excellent and quick primo; perfect for an early fall dinner. The Pesce Spada con Olive Taggiasche e Pinoli (Swordfish with Taggiasche Olives and Pinenuts) with the green beans ‘alla Genovese’ bring together many great Ligurian staples and makes an easy, hearty and luscious meal.

When I said goodbye to Simona Mussini, I asked her for her very own favourite memory from Ö Magazín and of her home of Liguria. She delightfully said

“everything, every day”, resonating with the serenity and peace of someone living their life just as they feel they should. My wish is that these recipes leave you with the same feeling of tranquillity that Liguria instilled in me many years ago.

Sud Forno Executive Chef Giovanna in collaboration with our very own Ligurian, Spaccio Executive Chef Ruben Rapetti, has curated a selection of recipes inspired by Liguria’s cuisine. Try these recipes at home and visit our @terronimagazine Instagram for even more Ligurian dishes to make at home.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

200g chickpea flour

1l of water

salt and pepper to taste

EVOO

rosemary to taste

maldon salt or coarse

salt to finish

Method

In a large bowl vigorously whisk the water and chickpea flour. Skim away any foam that might form. Repeat three times until well mixed. Season with salt and refrigerate if using the next day. Preheat the oven to 280°C. Cover the bottom of a large oven-proof pan (15”-16” in diameter) with about 3 mm of EVOO, then pour in the farinata liquid and fresh rosemary if desired. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden brown and finish with salt.

Note

The farinata mix can be made the day before cooking. If making the mix the same day as cooking, the mix needs to rest for at least 30 minutes.

Serves 4

Ingredients

3 tbsp. of oil

2-3 cloves of garlic

12 anchovy fillets

200g of Taggiasche

olives

100g of capers

400g of Linguine

70g of pine nuts, lightly toasted

parsley, freshly chopped

salt to taste

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method

In a pan gently heat 3 tbsp. of oil with the garlic and anchovies until the garlic is golden.  Crush the anchovies with a wooden spoon to help them melt, add the olives and capers, toss for a couple of minutes and remove from the heat. Cook the linguine according to label instructions (but very al dente) in 5l of salted boiling water. Strain the pasta and toss in the pan on low heat, add the pine nuts, fresh parsley and freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately, Buon Appetito!

Linguine alle Acciughe e Pinoli

Farinata

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

1l of milk

150g of flour

150g of sugar

6 eggs

1 lemon

100g of bread crumbs

sunflower oil for frying

Method

For the pastry cream, bring the milk to a boil and sift the flour into the milk while whisking.  Add the sugar, lemon zest and 4 of the eggs, lightly beaten continuously whisking to prevent lumps.  Spread the cream on a sheet pan, about 1 cm thick, and allow it to cool completely. Cut the cooled pastry cream into parallelograms.  Whisk the remaining eggs and dip the cream parallelograms into the eggs and then coat them with the bread crumbs. Fry for 2-4  minutes in the sunflower oil at 170 Cp. until golden.

Serves 2-4

Ingredients

4 slices of swordfish (about 3cm thick)

2 cloves of garlic (crushed)

2 tbsp. of pine nuts

1 tbsp. of capers

2 tbsp. of Taggiasche olives

approx. 100ml white wine

1 tbsp. of chopped parsley

EVOO

Method

Marinate the swordfish with EVOO, 1 clove of garlic, parsley, salt and pepper then let it stand for 15 minutes. Heat a large pan, add the swordfish and 1 garlic clove and cook for 5 minutes. Before flipping the swordfish, deglaze with 100ml of white wine and add the capers, olives and pine nuts. Flip the swordfish and cook for five minutes more, adding a bit more wine if necessary. Add parsley, remove from heat, cover with a lid and let sit for 2 minutes before serving.

Pesce Spada alla Ligure

Latte Fritto

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VINO DELLA LIGURIA

Liguria has one of the most impressive viticultures in Italy and wine making in this territory can be traced back to the Romans in ancient times. Today, Ligurian wines are praised for their premium quality and heroic wine growing.

Nestled between the mountains to the North and the Ligurian Sea to the South, the region is almost entirely hilly or mountainous, with limited available land for vine cultivation. The vineyards are often carved out of steep rocky cliffs that dramatically plunge to the sea, creating a rare scenic beauty.

The terraced vineyards make vine growing a challenge, requiring dedication and intense manual labour. Many vineyards can be reached only on foot. Harvesting is done by hand and filled crates are carried out on the shoulder.

While wine production quantity is one of the lowest in the country, the wines stand out for their appealing characteristics and pure expression of its territory. They are

difficult to find in Italy, let alone outside of the country. Wine production in Liguria is concentrated along the Riviera, stretching from the northern edge of Tuscany to the French border for about 350 km. The majority (65%) of wine production is white. In a small growing area of about 1500 ha, there are 8 areas designated DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) and 4 IGT (Typical Geographical Indication).

The beautiful Ligurian landscape of mountains and sea creates ideal microclimate conditions for vine growing. The climate is mild in every season. The south facing exposure and sea breeze help mitigate temperatures. The Apennines and the Alps protect from the cold winds coming from the north. The vineyards are planted 200-500 metres above sea level. The high altitude contributes to considerable day-night temperature variation, favouring slow maturation and ripening of the grapes, promoting intense and concentrated aromatic profiles.

Sandra Colosimo VINO DELLA LIGURIA

THE GRAPE VARIETIES

Winemaking in Liguria is deeply rooted in its territory, history and traditions. It is not surprising that Liguria has a rich patrimony of indigenous grape varieties.

Pigato

Pigato is the most famous of the native white grape varieties. The name is derived from the Ligurian expression “picau” which means speckled, as the grapes appear when they are fully ripe. The wines express the Ligurian terroir, deriving minerality from the limestone rich soils and sea salt aromas from the Mediterranean Sea.

Rossese

The most important indigenous red variety is Rossese. The variety produces light structured, fresh and fruit driven wines with floral, spice and Mediterranean scrub aromas.

Azienda Agricola Bruna is a small and authentic winery with 7.5 hectares of terraced vineyards,15 km from the Mediterranean Sea. Dedicated to organic cultivation, wine making methods are simple and traditional. The wines are natural and elegant and considered among the best of the region. The production is small and we are privileged to share Ligurian wines from Bruna in Ontario.

2021 ‘Bansigu’ Rosso Colline Savonesi IGT, Bruna

Minimum 70% Grenache blend. Cherry red with deep and intriguing notes of wild rose, strawberry tree, plum and aromatic herbs. Racy on the palate, savoury on the finish, balanced with bright acidity. Balsamic notes on the nose and palate round out the glass. Bansigu, the Ligurian dialect word for “swing”, is a red, Mediterranean-style wine.

Pairing: pasta dishes with meat sauce and red meats.

2021 Majè Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, Bruna

Made with 100% Pigato. Bright straw yellow, with a complex aromatic nose, delicate floral and fruity notes of yellow peach and citron citrus, along with herbal Mediterranean scrub. Fresh and savoury on the palate, extremely pleasant and elegant. “Majè” is the local name for vineyards terraced with stone.

Pairing: pasta with pesto, fish and vegetable dishes made with herbs.

2019 Rossese Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, Bruna

Made with 100% Rossese. Light ruby red with vibrant aromas of wild strawberries and raspberries. Light bodied and juicy with a pleasant almond note on the palate. Delicate tannins and easy drinking. Best enjoyed chilled.

Pairing: tomato based pastas, pizza, white meat and fish based dishes.

Wines are available by the glass at Terroni, Sud Forno & Spaccio locations and by the bottle at our Bottle Shops.

Shop by the case online at cavinona.com

SPACCIO WEST

128A

Sterling Road

“There was never supposed to be another Spaccio” explains the man behind Terroni, Cosimo Mammoliti, so much so that when he was first contacted about the Sterling road location that once housed the Drake Hotel commissary he turned it down.

We are seated in the raised dining area overlooking the commissary kitchen of his first Spaccio location - Spaccio East as it is now known - a little under a month before the opening of his newest venture - Spaccio West. Spaccio as a concept was created in 2019 to provide essential commissary to Terroni and Sud Forno, producing items such as fresh pasta, artisanal pastries, gelato and the HMR products sold in our grocers. Although Spaccio began as a practical solution to meet demand and guarantee consistency, it has evolved into a creative hub for our chefs - a place where they can experiment with new dishes, flavours and ingredients.

Between 2020 and 2022 Gruppo Terroni has expanded to include Stock T.C, a joint venture with Cumbraes, and Porta, Ontario's first Italian meal delivery service. We had planned to make Spaccio East the

home base for Porta, but with its rapid growth came the need for more space. So, a few months after turning down the Sterling road space, Cosimo and his team took another look.

Spaccio West is housed in an 8,000-square-foot building originally home to the TA Lytle company built in 1908, making it one of the oldest factories in Toronto. This is right up the Terroni alley. Cosimo chooses his locations based on the building "it needs to feel welcoming, it needs to have soul." He takes these buildings and, much like the Italian culture in his restaurants, carefully preserves the details, offering the respect only a man who truly values tradition can.

Along with a commissary kitchen viewable through large windows in the Spaccio West restaurant, the newest addition to the Gruppo Terroni family includes a caffè boasting a daily visual feast of pastries, dolci, pizza stirata, panini and more. Spaccio West’s grocer is stocked every day with staple seasonal items found in any home throughout Italy for you to build your own Italian menu at home.

YACHTING ON THE LIGURIAN SEA

Liguria’s Italian Riviera is the playground of the rich and a yachting paradise. The crescent-shaped coastline in the northwest of Italy meanders from The Gulf of Poets and Cinque Terre in the South, to San Remo, which borders Monaco and the French Riviera in the North. Perhaps the best way to take in all this region has to offer, with its crystalline waters, sun-drenched beaches and towns painted vibrantly to match every colour of the rainbow, is aboard a luxury yacht charter.

The most common places to set sail from are the ancient city of Genova or San Remo, with its bright lights and casinos. Spend your days anchored in sheltered bays, soaking up the sun and dining on fresh seafood, then fall asleep to the gentle lapping of waves. Yachts offer a unique opportunity to explore this popular region in peak season while avoiding the throng of tourists who flock to the coast each year.

Sail a short distance East of Genova and you will find yourself on the shores of Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. These luxury tourist hubs retain the charm of fishing villages despite being home to

high-end boutiques, restaurants and hotels. Portofino is a snorkelling paradise with a National Marine Park and submerged reefs. In San Fruttuoso, divers can pay homage to the Christ of the Abyss, the world’s first underwater statue, a 2.5m tall bronze statue of Christ placed on the seabed in 1954 and dedicated to divers. On the last Saturday in July, the town hosts a blessing of the sea in which candles are lit along the bay and, in a torchlit procession, divers lay a wreath on the statue, after which a mass is held on the shore.

Boat further East, and you will reach Sestri-Levante, which lies between the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables (named for former resident Hans Christian Anderson), before heading on to Moneglia, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. These sleepy towns are the perfect stopover before reaching the bustling tourist destinations of the Cinque Terre. No wind, a mild climate and a spectacular jagged coastline make this a popular destination for yachting enthusiasts. Explore miles of hiking trails and national parks around the towns or visit historical churches and castles dating

back to the 13th Century. Foodies can indulge in local specialities, including freshly caught anchovies, pesto, focaccia, farinata and seafood, served with wines from nearby vineyards and finished with famous local honey ice cream.

Finish your journey in Viareggio, the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini, the mastermind behind La Boheme and Madame Butterfly or sail on to La Spezia, the informal southern border of the Italian Riviera and home to a new superyacht marina, Porto Mirabello.

Those seeking action will find a number of water sports along the coastline. Surfing and windsurfing schools dot the shore. With the diversity of marine life, deep-sea fishing is a popular sport. Jet-Skiing is also a

favourite past-time and a visit to Finale Ligure, Pietra Ligure or Varazze will give speed-lovers the opportunity to fly through the waves.

It’s no surprise that Liguria is home to the world’s foremost builder of yachts over 24 meters. San Lorenzo Yachts, in Ameglia, Liguria, builds only 50 custom designed yachts per year. Working exclusively with skilled artisans, San Lorenzo Yachts sees their vessels more as functional art than transport.

Whether you’re planning to summer on a super yacht or are a seasoned sailor, Ligurian yachting offers luxury on the open seas, the opportunity to sample a diverse tapestry of towns and the magic of Italy wherever you choose to sink your anchor.

Make

MEALSHARE

“Everyone deserves the right to eat!” is the motto of Mealshare, a Canadian restaurant-based program that has served over 5.7 million meals to hungry youth in need.

In 2013, Jeremy Bryant and Andrew Hall learned that eight million Canadians dine out every single day, while over one million youth are food insecure. This led them to come up with the non-profit initiative, Mealshare, that partners with restaurants and local charities to provide meals for youth in need. The formula is easy: the restaurants that partner with Mealshare place a logo next to certain menu items and make a donation to Mealshare each time those items are ordered. Every meal ordered translates into one healthy meal being donated to a hungry child by the customer and the restaurant. The “Buy one, Give one” strategy has improved the life of millions of children across Canada, setting in place a way to inspire others to join the fight to end hunger.

Mealshare is partnered with 263 restaurants in over 387 communities across Canada, working with local charities – in Toronto’s case, with The Stop and EVA’s –to donate meals to vulnerable youth. Furthermore, they work internationally, donating half of their earnings to Save the Children.

In 2016 we at Terroni had the pleasure of sitting down with Derek Juno, Executive Vice President at Mealshare, and after a brief conversation, we were so touched by their mission, a simple formula for a big cause with a huge impact, that it felt only natural to become part of this venture. At Terroni we believe in the importance of social commitment and want to become involved with causes that have an impact both in our community as well as other areas in need. “Their mission aligns with our values. How could we not join the Mealshare family?” says Elena Di Maria Mammoliti of Terroni. This is a project of love dedicated to “make the world a better place, one meal at a time”.

Francesca Cordova

PESTO ALLA GENOVESE

SPONSORED BY

Ingredients:

70g of basil leaves

30g of pinenuts

60g Parmigiano Reggiano

30g of pecorino fiore sardo or romano

1 garlic clove

10g of coarse salt

70g of olive oil from Liguria (preferable)

Method:

In a pestle and mortar crush the garlic and pine nuts. Once creamy add salt and basil a bit at a time. Crush the basil moving the pestle in a circular motion on the mortar walls. The basil will begin to release a bright green liquid. Add the grated cheeses still mixing and then cover with olive oil.

Shop online at labottegaditerroni.com

Megan

@ritacug It’s open!!! @stock.tc one of a kind culinary boutique experience in Toronto thanks to the vision of Cosimo and Stephen !!

functional, environmentally friendly

@terroni.to We are back with another night of Jazz starring our own Jack

@spaccio_to Our very own Ligurian Executive Chef Ruben Rapetti.

@mangiawithmariah Peperoncini!

Zorawski on the double bass!

@terroni.to The Spaccio picnic bag:

and stylish.

@yourfave.foodie Team Crema or Team Nutella?

@cavinonawine Our Portfolio Tasting 2022.