E journal jan feb '15 by TheTextile Association (India)

SPINNING

PEER REVIEWED

Characteristics of Draw Textured and Air-Jet Textured Yarns M.Y. Gudiyawar* & Rahul Gadkari Department of Textiles, D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract Polyester false twist draw textured and air- jet textured yarns were manufactured using draw and air jet texturising machines. Both the textured yarns were manufactured using same feed yarn and draw ratio. The two textured yarns were evaluated for bulkiness, tensile, shrinkage and moisture management characteristics. The draw textured yarn was found to have higher strength, breaking elongation, dimensional stability, moisture absorbency, moisture transportation and lower bulk as compared to air jet textured yarn. Keywords Air-jet textured yarn, Draw textured yarn, Drop absorbency, Physical bulk

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, M.Y. Gudiyawar Department of Textiles D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji-416115(M.S), India. Email : gudiyawar@gmail.com January - February 2015

2. Material and Methodology 2.1 Material Polyester POY of 126/34 denier was used. 2.2 Methodology Polyester draw textured yarn was manufactured using Himson HDS-CX2 draw texturing machine at a delivery speed of 300mpm, primary heater temperature of 1800c, secondary heater temperature of 1600C, draw ratio of 1.7, D/Y of 2, stabilising overfeed of 4% and take-up overfeed of 6%. The polyester POY, which was used for manufacturing draw textured yarn, was also used for preparing air jet textured yarn. Before feeding it to the air jet texturising machine, POY was drawn to 1.7 draw ratio at heater temperature of 1900C on Himson HDS-CX2 draw texturing machine and texturising discs and secondary heater were bypassed. In order to convert FDY in to air jet textured yarn, the drawn polyester yarn [FDY] was fed to Himson HJT-1000 air-jet texturising machine at 300 mpm, 8kg/cm2 air pressure, 1litter/jet/hr water, 30% overfeed to jet and stabilizing heater temperature of 1800C. 2.3 Testing The following tests were carried out for textured yarns. 2.3.1. Linear density Linear density of draw textured and air-jet textured yarns was tested using ASTM D1907-07. 2.3.2. Tensile Characteristics Tensile properties of the draw textured and air-jet textured yarn was measured according to ASTM D2256337

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Introduction Texturing is increasingly gaining importance in textile production, not only in yarns for weaving and knitting fashion products, but also for carpets, furnishing fabrics and a variety of technical textiles. False-twist and air-jet texturing methods are most common processes. Textured yarns impart higher bulk, excellent dimensional stability and softer handle to the fabric. False twist draw textured yarns are commercially known as draw textured yarn. In the draw texturising process crimps are introduced into the filaments by twisting, heating and untwisting. In the air-texturing process one or more ends of multifilament yarns are passed through a jet in which air turbulence is maintained. Multifilament yarn or yarns are fed into the jet at a higher rate and withdrawn at a lower rate. The airflow causes the filaments to be blown apart, curled into loops [1]. Draw textured and air jet textured yarns have different structures. A draw textured yarn is consisting of crimpy parallel filaments and air jet textured yarn has entangled core and surface loops. Therefore, characteristics of the two textured yarns differ because of difference in the arrangement of filaments. In this investigational work, polyester partially oriented yarn was texturised into draw textured and air jet textured yarns using industrial scale draw and air jet texturising machines and characteristics of both textured yarns were compared.

SPINNING 95a using Instron tester with 500 mm gauge length, 300 mm/min crosshead speed. 2.3.3. Crimp rigidity% The crimp rigidity is a measure of the ability of a draw textured yarn to recover from stretch. The draw textured yarn crimp rigidity was measured as per Hosiery and Allied Trades Research Association standard. In this test, a load equivalent to 0.1g/den was suspended from a skein of yarn which was immersed in water at room temperature. After 2 minutes, its length L1 was measured. The load was then reduced to 0.002g/den and after another 2 minutes, the reduced length L2 was measured [2]. The crimp rigidity is given by the formula: (L1-L2) Crimp rigidity = ×100 L1 2.3.4 Physical bulk The physical bulk of the draw textured and air-jet textured yarn was measured by using Du Pont's method. In this method, a length of yarn weighing 85 grams was wound on the package before and after texturing at the same tension. The ratio of the package density of parent yarn to the package density of textured yarn multiplied by 100 gives the physical bulk of the textured yarn [3]. (Package density of parent yarn (g/cc) Physical bulk (%) =

×100 (Package density of textured yarn (g/cc) (m2-m1)

Package density (g/cc) = (l ×(r2 - r1)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Where, m2 = weight of full bobbin (gm) m1 = weight of empty bobbin (gm) l = length of yarn on package (cm) r2 = radius of full bobbin (cm) r1 = radius of empty bobbin (cm) 2.3.5. Wicking height Wicking height of draw textured and air-jet textured yarn was measured as per German standard DIN 53924. A yarn sample of 25 cm length, preconditioned at 200C, 65% RH was suspended vertically with its lower end immersed in a reservoir of 200 ml distilled water. To the vertically suspended sample 2 g of load was attached at the lower end. Ink was added to the reservoir of distilled water for tracking the movement of water. The height reached by the water in the yarn above the water level in the reservoir was measured at different 338

time intervals. 2.3.6. Drop absorbency A weight was attached at one end on the sample to impart tensile force in the yarn equal to the weight. The custom made tiny pipette was used to measure water to an accuracy of 0.5 mg. A water droplet was placed on the yarn and the time taken for the water droplet to wick into the yarn and disappear was measured as drop absorbency time of both the textured yarn. 2.3.7. Boiling Water Shrinkage ASTM D6207 testing procedure was used for dimensional stability measurement of draw textured and airjet textured yarn. This test method covers the determination of shrinkage of yarns in skein form when immersed in boiling water.

3. Results and discussion Table 3.1: characteristics of draw textured and air jet textured yarns Characteristics

Draw textured

Air-jet textured yarn

Tenacity grams/tex

Breaking elongation %

Crimp rigidity %

Boiling water shrinkage

Physical bulk %

157

164

wicking height cm

2.95

2.1

Drop absorbency sec

Yarn tex

3.1 Textured yarn structure and bulk The structures of draw textured and air jets textured are shown in Figures 3.1-3.2.The draw textured yarn has wavy filaments. Air jet textured yarn has loops on the surface and these loops are held in their position by the entanglement of filaments and this entanglement makes the core of air jet textured yarns. The airtextured yarn structure is characterized by loop frequency, size of loops and core diameters, which influence the characteristics and appearance of yarns [4]. Whereas, the draw textured yarn has crimpy filaments almost parallel to each other without core and surface loops. The draw and air textured yarns have physical bulk. The changes in yarn properties are due to the formation of bulked structure. The level of physical January - February 2015

SPINNING bulk is higher than draw textured yarn. 3.2 Tensile characteristics

Figure 3.3: Tenacity of Textured yarns.

Figure 3.1: Microscopic structure of draw textured yarns

Figure 3.2: Microscopic Structure of Air-jet textured yarn

bulk is different for the two textured yarns. The physical bulk value of draw and air jet textured yarns are shown in Table 3.1. The bulk of textile structures is dependent upon their packing density. Lower the packing density, higher the bulk. The air textured yarn has higher bulk than draw textured yarn. The higher bulk of air jet textured yarn is due to its lower packing density. The air jet textured yarns occupy more volume for the given weight as compared to draw textured yarns due to the surface loops. Therefore, the packing density of air jet textured yarns is lower and

Texttreasure Coming together is a beginning; keeping together is progress; working together is success. - Henry Ford

January - February 2015

The tenacity and breaking elongation of draw textured and air jet textured yarns are shown in Figures 3.3 and 3.4 respectively. Draw textured yarns have higher strength and higher breaking elongation as compared to air jet textured yarn. There is also significant difference in the tenacity and elongation of draw and air jet textured yarns. The partially oriented yarn, used as feed yarn for the two yarns manufacturing, is same and drawn to the same draw ratio. It means structure of the yarn due to texturising has resulted in the difference of tensile characteristics. The structure of yarns is shown in Figures 3.1 and 3.2. The lower tenacity and lower breaking elongation of air jet textured yarns, firstly, is due to the higher filaments entanglement in the yarn core formed by texturising [5] and secondly, due to the obliquity effect and the lower number of filaments sharing the axial load. The air jet textured yarns have surface loops and entangled core [Figure 3.1] and these surface loops reduce the number of filament in the yarn core and filament entanglement in the core increases the obliquity effect. The higher strength of draw textured yarns as compared to air jet textured yarns is due to the crimpy parallel filaments without entanglement. The draw texturising process also increases the disorientation of molecules in the filament and this higher disorientation of molecules and crimps of filament increase the breaking elongation of filament. The air jet texturing process does not 339

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.4: Breaking Elongation of Textured Yarns.

SPINNING change the molecular orientation of filament [6]. 3.3 Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarns

Figure 3.5: Boiling Water Shrinkage of Textured Yarns.

Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarn is a function of the shrinkage of feeder yarn and the heat treatment given during texturising process. The Boiling water shrinkage of draw and air jet textured yarns is shown in Figure 3.5 and there is significant difference in the Boiling water shrinkage of draw and air jet textured yarns. Boiling water shrinkage of draw textured yarn is lower than air jet textured yarn. It means draw textured yarn has higher dimensional stability as compared to air jet textured yarn. The higher dimensional stability of draw textured yarn is due to heating of yarn on both primary and secondary heater and air jet textured yarn is heated only on one heater. The molecules of draw textured yarn relax better than air jet textured yarn and higher molecular relaxation results in lower shrinkage and higher dimensional stability. In addition, open structure of draw textured yarn [Figure 3.1] also facilitates more exposure of filament to temperature in the process and compact core of air textured yarn hinders the exposure of filament to temperature in the process. 3.4 Moisture management of textured yarn

Moisture management of yarn is its ability to absorb gaseous or liquid humidity from the skin and transport it to the outer surface and release it into the surrounding air. Moisture management of yarn affects the comfort level of the wearer, particularly at the high sweating level. Earlier studies have revealed that the texturising of filament yarn improves their moisture management ability [7]. The moisture management of yarns is expressed by drop absorbency and wicking rate. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of textured yarns are shown in Figure 3.6 and 3.7 respectively. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of air jet textured yarns is lower than draw textured yarns. The drop absorbency indicates the wetting behavior of yarn. Drop absorbency (wetting) of air jet textured yarn is lower than draw textured yarn due to the reduction in inter-filaments spaces for capillary movement. The diameter of capillary between the filament is reduced by the compact core of air jet textured yarn and delayed the moisture absorbency. Whereas, more open structure of draw textured yarn resulted in higher wetting. The higher wicking of draw textured yarn is also due to higher wetting as wetting is prerequisite for wicking [8]. 4. Conclusion Filament arrangement is different in draw and air jet textured yarns. The draw textured yarn structure is more open with crimpy parallel filaments and air jet textured yarn has compact structure with surface loops. Air jet textured yarn has higher bulk, lower strength and lower extensibility as compared to draw textured yarn. Dimensional stability and moisture absorption and transportation characteristics of draw textured yarn are better than air jet textured yarn. References 1.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

2. 3. 4. Figure 3.6: Drop Absorbency of Textured Yarns.

6. 7. 8.

M. Acar and G.R. Wray, Journal of Text. Institute, 77(1), 19-27, (1986). B. Piller, E. Lesykova, 20th International synthetic fiber symposium in Dornbirn, September 23-25, (1981). Booth J. E., CBS Publishers Third Edition, (1996) Du Pont Technical Information Bulletin, X154, 10, (1961). V. K. Kothari, A. K. Sengupta, R. S. Rengasamy and B. C. Goswami, Textile Res. Journal, P 317-323(June 1989). A Demir, M. Acar, R. Turton, Melliand Int, E 126128,4/(1988). M Y Gudiyawar, C D Kane, Sultan Soudagar, Chemical Fibres Inte.1,43 (2011) De Borr, J.J, Textile Res. Journal, 50, 624(1980).

❑ ❑ ❑ Figure 3.7: Wicking Rate of Textured yarns. 340

January - February 2015

DYEING

PEER REVIEWED

Dyeing of Banana Fibre with Marigold, Lac, Madder and Onion Dyes M. D. Teli*, Sanket P. Valia & Jignesh S. Mahajan *Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract Nowadays people are becoming cautious because of the toxic nature of synthetic dyes and synthetic fibres right from their raw material production to processing. Thus, there is an increasing demand for products from natural sources that use natural fibres and natural dyes. Banana fibres are basically obtained from waste stalk of banana pseudo stem. Natural dyes are obtained from vegetables, insects and minerals. Here, in this study an attempt has been made to dye banana fibres with natural dyes like marigold, lac, madder and onion with the help of alum as a mordant. The results indicate that the banana fibres can be dyed with these natural dyes and dye uptake increases with increase in percentage shade. The dyed samples showed all round good wash and light fastness properties. The results indicate good potential for coloration of banana fibres with natural resources. Keywords Banana fibres, Marigold, Lac, Madder, Onion, Wash fastness, Light fastness

Textile materials are colored to obtain the desired look, appearance and value addition. In ancient times textile materials were colored by colours derived from natural sources only. But due to invention of synthetic dyestuffs which have advantages over natural dyes like cost factor, color yield; manufactures/processes shifted towards synthetic dyestuffs. Today we are moving towards sustainable processing and hence, natural dyes are getting more importance since their production does not require any hazardous chemical reactions to occur unlike synthetic dyestuffs. This gives more impetus to eco-friendly processing of natural dyes on natural fibres.

* All correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019, India Tel.: +91-022-33612811 Email : mdt9pub@gmail.com January - February 2015

Natural dyes are basically dyes or colorants derived from natural sources like plants, insects and minerals. India has a rich biodiversity so wide range of natural coloring raw material is available in India. Marigold is an ornamental plant. Marigold is a major source of cartenoids and Lutein. Marigold flowers which are yellow to orange are a rich source of Lutein, a cartenoid pigment [2].

Figure 1.1 Structure of Lutein

Lac is the scarlet resinuous secretion of a number of species of lac insects, of which the most commonly cultivated species is Kerria lacca. Lac dye is based on anthraquinoid type of structure and composed of laccaic acid and erthrolaccin. Laccaic is water soluble compound whereas erythrolaccin is water insoluble compound[3].

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1. Introduction Natural fibres are also environmentally friendly since they are biodegradable and non toxic. Banana fibre is a cellulosic fibre obtained from pseudo stem of banana plant. Banana fibre is a bast fibre obtained from waste stalk of banana plant. The outer sheath is tightly covered by layers of fibre. The fibre is located primarily adjacent to the outer surface of the sheath and can be peeled- off in ribbons of strips [1].

DYEING Figure 1.4: Strucutre of Quercetol

2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials Banana fibres were provided by Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Mumbai. Madder and Lac were provided by Adiv pure nature in powder form. Marigold flowes and onion skin were also provided by Adiv pure nature.Alum used as the mordant was of laboratory grade purchased from S. D Fine Chemicals Ltd.

Figure 1.2 Strucure of laccaic acid

Madder is natural dyestuff known to us from ancient times. Ideal colour was said to come from plants 18 to 28 months old that had been grown in calcareous soil, which is full of lime and typically chalky. Dye is obtained from roots of the plant.. Indian madder is anthraquinone based red dye. The most impportant colorants in madder are the anthraquinones, alizarin, purpuroxanthin, rubiadin, manjistin, purpurin, pseduopurpurin[4].

2.2 Methods 2.2.1 Dissolution of Mordant A stock solution of alum(20%) was made by dissolving 20g of alum in 100 ml of water. Solution was filtered and used for mordanting of fibres. 2.2.2 Extraction of Dye The marigold flowers were dreid thoroughly. This was then grounded in a mixer to a fine powder. A 10% stock solution was prepared by taking 10g of marigold in a round bottom flask. Solution was heated upto boil in heating mantle under reflux condition for 1hr. After 1hr solution was filtered and made to original volume, and used as 10% stock solution for dyeing. Lac and madder stock solution (10%) of the dyes were prepared by taking 10g of dry powder in 100 ml water in round bottom flask. Solution was heated upto boil in heating mantle under reflux condition for 1hr. it was then filtered and made to original volume, and used as 10% stock solution for dyeing.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 1.3: Structure of Alizarin

The dried outer skin of onions can be used for colouring natural textile fibres. So outer skin of onion which is generally thrown away as waste can be used to extract dye. Onions contain phenolics and flavonoids having potential to be anti-cholesterol, anticancer and antioxidant porperties. Onions peels are rich in tannis which have good affinity on textile. Quercetol is the coloring matter in onion peels[5].

342

The onion peels were dreid completely and were then grounded in a mixer to a fine powder. A stock solution (10%) was made by taking 10g dry powder in 100 ml water. This was boiled for an hour and extract was filtered and made upto 100 ml and used for dyeing. 2.2.3 Mordanting and dyeing processes The mordanting of banana fibres was carried out in Rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari Labtech, Mumbai) keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The fabric was introduced into the mordant solution at room temperature and the temperature was gradually raised to 850C. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 1 hour.After mordanting, the fibres were squzeed and dyed with lac and marigold dye extract separately for three diffent shades (10%, 20% and 30%). The dyeing was continued at 850C for 1hr. After dyeing, the fibres were squzeed and washed with cold water. January - February 2015

DYEING 3. Testing and Analysis 3.1 Colour value by reflectance method The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10degree observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on RayscanSpectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression;

natural dyes like marigold, lac, madder, and onion was attempted and these results are summarized in Tables 4.1 to 4.4.

(1-R)2

It can also be seen that washing fastness varied in range of 3 to 4 (good to very good). This shows that the dye-mordant fibre interaction is good. Also from these tables it is seen that the overall light fastness varied in the range of 5 to 7 (better to best) for all dyes. This shows that the dyes are stable to photo degradation.

= S

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient. The dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the RayscanSpectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100- white, 0- black), a* corresponds to the redgreen coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) and b* corresponds to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. 3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO 105 C03 method. A solution containing 5 g/l soap and 2gpl soda solution was used as the washing liquor for synthetic dyes dyed samples and only 5g/l soap solution was used as the washing liquor for natural dyes. The samples were treated for 1hour at 600C. After rinsing and drying, the K/S values of these samples were determined and compared with K/ S values of the original samples and rating is given. (Rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent). 3.3 Evaluation of Light Fastness The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Tungsten lamp in light Fastness Tester. Samples are attached on black cardboard and kept for 17 hours. After that K/S values are find out and compared with K/S vales of standard samples, ratings of light fastness samples. (rating 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 fair, 3 -moderate, 4 - good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent).

Table 4.1: K/S and fastness values of bleached and mordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with Marigold dye Sr. Shade No. (%)

K/S

8.77

13.63 60.52

9.47

17.14 62.12

7.77

54.26 10.85 47.76

Fastness Colour Change Wash Light

54.54

55.12

Table 4.2: K/S and fastness values of bleached and mordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with Lac dye Sr. Shade No. (%) K/S

Fastness Colour Change Wash Light

10.36 25.62 24.86 -1.04

17.08 24.93 22.00 -0.30

19.27 24.55 20.45

0.86

Table 4.3: K/S and fastness values of bleached and mordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with Madder dye Sr. Shade No. (%) K/S

1.76

37.91 26.32 25.88

2.70

37.01 30.13

26.92

3.24

36.87 32.86 27.73

Fastness Colour Change Wash Light

4. Results and Discussion The dyeing of alum mordanted banana fibres using January - February 2015

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The results indicate that with the increase in percentage shade the K/S values increased showing that the dye have affinity for the fibre. This was observed in case of all the four dyes studied.

DYEING Table 4.4: K/S and fastness values of bleached and mordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with Onion dye Sr. Shade No. (%) K/S

1 2 3

10 20 30

4.55 80.36 -0.78 35.96 5.73 81.28 -1.01 37.37 10.24 80.17 0.15 38.65

Fastness Colour Change Wash Light

4 4 4

7 7

In terms of CIELAB colour space L* values indicates lightness or brightness. Higher L* values indicate brighter colour. From Figure 4.1 for marigold dye, both a* and b* values are found to be positive but b* values are much higher than a* values indicating reddish-yellow colour on banana fibre. From Figure 4.2 for lac dye a* values are positive and b* values are near to zero indicating red colour on banana fibre. From Figure 4.3 for madder dye both a* and b* values are seen to be positive indicating reddish-yellow colour on banana fibre. From Figure 4.4 for marigold dye it can be seen that a* values are negative or near to zero and b* values are positive indicating greenish yellowish colour on banana fibre.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 4.1: a* v/s b* for Marigold dye

Figure 4.2: a* v/s b* for Lac dye

Figure 4.3: a* v/s b* for Madder dye

Figure 4.4: a* v/s b* for Onion dye

5. Conclusion Dyeing of banana fibres was successfully carried out using marigold, lac, madder and onion dyes. The dyed fibres showed good colour strength. The dye uptake on banana fibres increased with increase in percentage shade. The dyed banana samples showed satisfactory fastness properties. Hence, banana fibres can be dyed using natural dyes. References 1. Mukhopadhyay S., Fangueiro R., Arpaç Y., Sentürk, U., Journal of Engineered Fibres and Fabrics, 3 (2) 39-45, (2008). 2. Teli M. D., Valia, S. P., and Kolambar, D., Journal of Textile Association, 74 (4) 210-214, (2013). 3. Teli, M. D., Valia, S. P., Kolambar, D., Trivedi, R., and Kamble, M, Journal of Textile Association, 74 (6) 337-341, (2014). 4. Saxena S. and. Raja A. S. M.," Natural Dyes: Sources, Chemistry, Application and Sustainability Issues", Textile Science and Clothing Technology, DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2. 5. Teli M.D., Valia S.P., Pradhan C., Journal of Textile Association, 75 (1) 23-27, (2014). ❑ ❑ ❑

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January - February 2015

PRINTING

PEER REVIEWED

Printing of Silk Fabric following Simultaneous Mordanting Technique S Roy Maulik* Department of Silpa-Sadana, Visva-Bharati University, Sriniketan Abstract Silk fabrics have been printed with colourants extracted from Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Curcuma longa, Camellia sinensis, Bixa orellana, Allium cepa, Rheum emodi in absence and in presence of aluminium sulphate, ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate following simultaneous mordanting technique for producing shades of different colours and also to achieve good overall colour fastness properties of the printed fabrics. Traditional methods of printing with natural dyes have their own limitations i.e. more time consuming process, poor colourfastness to washing, difficult to use print paste containing metal salts in presence of gum after 2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve white ground etc. The technique adapted in this study is less time consuming, economical and also helps to produce print paste with better storage stability as compared to the conventional printing process. The dyeing and printing with those colourants is found to be effectively accomplished under acidic condition (pH ~ 4.5) in absence of any inorganic salts. Printed fabrics in general show a common light fastness and wash fastness ratings of 4 and 3 respectively, except Bixa orellana and Curcuma longa. However, aluminium sulphate, ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate when used as mordanting agents produce an improvement in light and washfastness properties of the printed fabrics.

1. Introduction Nature provides various colouring matters obtained from vegetables, minerals and animal origin. As evident from the Ajanta and Elora wall paintings, dyeing and painting or printing with natural dyes was a technique prevalent even in the ancient civilization. The Vedas also mentioned red, yellow, blue and black as main colours and expressed that the ancient craftsmen dyed blue from indigo, yellow from turmeric and saffron, brown from cutch and red from lac, madder etc [1]. Thus, natural dyes have been an integral part of human life since time immemorial. But with the invention of synthetic dyes in 1856 and its subsequent commercialization the prominence of natural dyes receded because of the known advantages like good colour fastness to different agencies, reproducibility of shades, brilliance of colour, easy to apply etc. of synthetic dyes over natural dyes. However, only in recent past the use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natu*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Dr. Shankar Roy Maulik, Assistant Professor - III Visva-Bharati (A Central University) Department of Silpa-Sadana Sriniketan-731236, District: Birbhum (WB) Email : s_r_moulik@yahoo.co.in January - February 2015

ral dyes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes. Technologies associated with dyeing and printing of textile with natural dyes has passed through stages of refinements and sophistications to suit newer demand [2-8]. However, the use of natural dyes has mainly been confined to craftsmen, small scale dyers and printers, as well as small scale exporters and producers dealing with high valued eco-friendly textile production and sales. Recently, a number of commercial dyers and small textile export houses have started looking at the possibilities of exploring natural dyes on regular basis for dyeing and printing of textiles to overcome environmental pollution caused by some of the synthetic dyes. Natural dyes can be applied on various fibres, but it has a strong affinity for protein fibres viz. silk, wool etc. Traditionally printing with natural dyes is carried out either by following pre or post mordanting techniques. In pre-mordanting process fabric is treated with inorganic salts as mordants followed by printing with natural dyes, whereas in post-mordanting method dyed fabric is printed with different inorganic salts as mordants. Those processes have their own limitations, viz. 345

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Key words Eco-friendly, Mordant, Natural dye, Printing, Silk

PRINTING more time consuming, poor colourfastness to washing, difficult to use print paste containing metal salts in presence of gum after 2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve white ground etc. In this context the present article concerns with the extraction of colourants from different natural sources and to be used for printing on silk fabric following simultaneous mordanting technique with the help of block, screen, brush etc. in order to popularize natural dyes in small scale industrial sectors and also to achieve eco-friendly dyed and printed silk fabrics for the upper segment in the society. Assessment of colourfastness to washing, light and rubbing are also reported in this study. 2. Materials and methods 2.1 Materials 2.1.1 Silk Fabric Loom state silk fabric having 430 ends/dm and 210 picks/dm and weighing 50 gm/m2 on the average obtained from the local market was used in the present study. 2.1.2 Chemicals Laboratory reagent (LR) grade sodium carbonate, 50%

(w/v) hydrogen peroxide, acetic acid, non-silicate stabilizer, aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were appropriately used in the experiments. Olive oil based soap and non-ionic detergent of commercial grade were also used. 2.1.3 Natural Dye Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Curcuma longa, Camellia sinensis, Bixa orellana, Allium cepa and Rheum emodi were used as natural dyes for printing purpose (Table 2.1). Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Acacia catechu, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Camellia sinensis and Allium cepa either purchased or collected from the local market were extracted using water as the solvent, filtered and the filtrates were then used as colourants for the printing purpose, whereas Laccifer lacca, Curcuma longa and Indigofera tinctoria were obtained from M/s ECO-N-VIRON, India, in paste form and Bixa orellana and Rheum emodi were purchased from M/s Alps Industries Ltd, India in powder form and those were used directly without any further extraction process.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.1: Plant, animal parts and its chief colouring compound used as natural dyes

Botanical name

Common name

Parts used

Chief colouring compound

Rheum emodi

Dolu

Root

Chrysophanic acid [9]

Madhuca indica

Mahua

Bark

Quercetin [10] Dihydroquercetin

Rubia cordifolia

Indian madder

Root

Purpurin [11]

Acacia catechu

Khair

Stem bark

Catechin [10]

Terminalia chebula Haritaki/Myrobolan

Fruit

Elagitannic acid [11]

Laccifer lacca

Lac

Resin

Laccaic acid [12]

Camellia sinensis

Tea

Leaves

Theaflavin and Thearubigins [13]

Punica granatum

Pomegranate

Fruit rind

Ellagi-tannin-flavogallol [14]

Bixa orellana

Annatto

Pulp (aril) surrounding the seed

Bixin and nor-bixin [15]

Indigofera tinctoria Indigo

Green crop

Indigotin [11]

Curcuma longa

Haldi

Rhizome

Curcuminoids, Curcumin [11]

Allium cepa

Onion

Outermost dry papery skin

Quercetin [16]

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2.2.2 Extraction of natural dye Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Acacia catechu, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Camellia sinensis and Allium cepa were dried in absence of direct sunlight and crushed in powder form if required, with the help of grinder (crusher) before being aqueous extracted. Aqueous solution of all those colourants was prepared by adding 100 g of each vegetable matter separately to 1 L of water. The mixture was stirred, heated and kept at boiling point for 60 min in a thermostat control beaker dyeing machine, allowed to stand for another 15 min and finally filtered through nylon bolting cloth having 140-200 mesh size. Such filtrate was then used as natural colourants for dyeing and printing purpose. 2.2.3 Dyeing of silk fabric Degummed and bleached silk fabric was padded with an aqueous solution of natural dyes as specified earlier (except Indigofera tinctoria) in absence and/or presence of different inorganic salts or mordants at 100% wet pick up in a miniature lab model two bowl padding mangle and dried in air. This was followed by printing as described below. 2.2.4 Printing of silk fabric following simultaneous mordanting technique Inorganic salts of specified dose level (5 - 10 parts) were mixed with the aqueous solution of natural dyes and kept for 15 min in order to form lake by reaction of the colouring components present in the dyestuffs with the metal ion. Appropriate amount of gum indulka was then added with the help of high speed stirrer to prepare the printing paste. Printing of the bleached and/or dyed silk fabrics was performed with the help of print paste containing natural dyes, inorganic salts and gum indulka as thickener. January - February 2015

The impressions were made either with the help of wooden blocks of various designs, screens, stencils, brush etc. After printing the fabrics were dried at room temperature, followed by steaming at 1020C for 30 min in a cottage steamer. After steaming the printed fabrics were immediately washed with 2 g/l non-ionic detergent at 600C for 10 min in order to remove the gum and the strong mineral acid (sulphuric acid) produced during the steaming process. After soaping, the printed fabrics were washed with cold water and finally dried in air. In case of Indigofera tinctoria, printing paste was prepared by mixing specified quantity of Indigofera tinctoria along with sodium nitrite and gum Indulka thickener. The printed colour was developed in a bath containing 20 gm/l sulphuric acid and 20 gm/l sodium sulphate at a temperature of 600C for 10 min and soaping of the printed fabric was carried out as described earlier. Figure 2.2 shows the traditionally printed silk fabrics

Figure 2.2: Eco-friendly printed silk fabric

2.2.5 Assessment of colourfastness to washing Colourfastness to wash of silk fabrics printed with natural dyes as specified in absence and presence of different inorganic salts was assessed in a launder-ometer in accordance with a method prescribed in IS 105-C10 (2006) [superseding IS: 3361-1984 (ISO-II)]. 2.2.6 Assessment of colourfastness to light Colourfastness to light was assessed on a Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) light fastness tester following a method prescribed in IS: 2454 -1985. 2.2.7 Assessment of colourfastness to rubbing This was determined employing a Crockmeter following the method as prescribed in IS: 766-1988.

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2.2 Methods 2.2.1 Degumming and bleaching In order to remove silk gum or sericin from the loom state silk fabric, the latter was degummed at 900C for 1.5 h in an aqueous solution containing olive oil based soap (6g/l) and sodium carbonate (2g/l), followed by bleaching at 800C for a duration of 30 min with hydrogen peroxide (2 %), non-silicate stabilizer (1%) and sodium carbonate (0.5%) at a fabric-to- liquor ratio of 1:20 (w/v) in a thermostatically controlled open bath beaker dyeing machine. Degummed and bleached fabric was washed thereafter at 700C for 10 min, cold washed and finally dried.

PRINTING 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Assessment of colourfastness properties Data for colourfastness to light, wash and rubbing of silk fabrics printed with Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Curcuma longa, Camellia sinensis, Bixa orellana, Allium cepa and Rheum emodi in absence and presence of different inorganic salts viz. aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate are reported in Table 3.1. Use of inorganic salts caused a good light fastness rating of the printed substrates for all the natural dyes except Curcuma longa and Bixa orellana. Curcuma longa is very much susceptible to light because they emit fluorescence [12] and also from the structure of curcumin [17] one can say that this dye is not forming metal-complex with the inorganic salts and hence exhibits poor light fastness properties. On the other hand the structure of bixin and nor-bixin [15] resemble more of an acid dye than a mordant dye in view of the lack of functional group present in the structure of bixin and nor bixin in a position close enough to allow formation of complex as would otherwise expected in case of mordant dye. Use of inorganic salts caused a common improved light fastness rating of the printed substrates for all the natural dyes (except few) used in this study. Aluminium and iron with their good complex forming ability [18]

can hold two or more suitable dye molecules together to form insoluble large complex, which enhanced the light fastness of the printed substrates [19, 20]. Such complexation of the coloured component within the fibre structure leads to polymerization of the dye molecules which is also responsible for improved light fastness rating [21, 22]. The chromophore in those cases may be protected from photochemical oxidation by forming a complex with the metal. Colourfastness to light for silk printed with annatto in absence of any salts improves by one point scale upon application of ferrous sulphate. This may be due to the deposition of complex of tannin (which is reported to be associated with bixin and nor-bixin) and iron on the substrates. The rating for colourfastness to washing of printed silk fabric in presence of aluminium, copper and ferrous sulphate commonly produces good results. Improvement in such colourfastness to washing rating may be attributed due to the formation of insoluble large complex formed by the colouring component present in the dyes and the metal ions within the fibre. Moderate wash fastness rating in case of Curcuma longa and Bixa orellana may be attributed due to the formation of weak dye fibre interaction. A common excellent rubbing fastness property indicates very little deposition of dyes on the surface of the fabrics at the end of the printing process.

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Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 348

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PRINTING

Natural dyes

Mordants used

Rheum emodi

Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4 Nil Al2(SO)3 CuSO4 FeSO4

Madhuca indica

Terminalia chebula

Bixa orellana

Indigofera tinctoria Curcuma longa

Rubia cordifolia L.

Acacia catechu

Allium cepa

Camellia sinensis

Laccifer lacca Kerr.

Punica granatum L

January - February 2015

Colour fastness to washing Change in Staining on Colour fastness Colour Cotton to light 3 4 4 4 4 5 4 4 5 4 3-4 5-6 3 4-5 3 4 4-5 4 4 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 3 4 4 4 4 4-5 4 4 5 4 4 5-6 2-3 4 2 3 4 2-3 3 4 2-3 3 4 3 4 4 5-6 2-3 3-4 1-2 3 3-4 2 3 3-4 2 3 3-4 2 3-4 4 4 4 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 3 4 4 4 4 4-5 4 4 5 4 4 5 3-4 4 3-4 4 4 4 4 4 5 4 4 4-5 4 4-5 5 4 4-5 5-6 4 4 6 4 4 6 3-4 4 4 4 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 3-4 3-4 3-4 4 4 4-5 4 4 5 4 4-5 5

Colour fastness to rubbing 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3-4 4 4 4 4 4-5 3-4 4 4 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4 4-5 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4

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Table 3.1: Colour fastness to wash, light and rubbing

PRINTING

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

5. Conclusion Printing with natural dyes in a more scientific and economical ways is one of the most important research areas in the field of textiles. Traditional method involves printing with natural dyes on pre-mordanted fabric or printing with mordants on the dyed fabrics i.e. post-mordanting techniques. But those processes have their own limitations, viz. more time consuming, poor colourfastness to washing, difficult to use print paste containing metal salts in presence of gum after 2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve white ground etc. Printing of silk fabric with Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Camellia sinensis, Allium cepa, Rheum emodi is found to be effectively accomplished when aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate used as mordanting agents following simultaneous mordanting technique. Use of such inorganic salts commonly produces improved light and washfastness rating of the printed substrates. The technique adapted in this study is less time consuming, economical and also helps to produce print paste with better storage stability as compared to the conventional printing process. The overall results indicate that majority of the natural dyes used in this study can be effectively utilized for producing eco-friendly printed fabrics used for apparel and home furnishing just by adding designs and colors to them. But it is very much essential to select appropriate inorganic salts and also to maintain proper proportion of colourants and inorganic salts in the print paste. Excess of dye beyond the limit may cause tinting on the white ground whereas excess amount of inorganic salts than the desired level particularly in case of copper sulphate whose indicative maximum permissible limit in the ultimate product is 50 ppm [11] and 0.5 ppm in effluent water [23] will increase in pollution load. These dyes have good scope in commercial printing in small scale industries of silk giving wide range of colours in conjugation with metal mordants following simultaneous mordanting techniques.

Textsmile Teacher : Why are you late today? Student : Because of a sign down the road. Teacher : What do a sign have to do with you being late? Student : the sign said, 'School Ahead, Go Slow!' 350

References 1. Teli M.D., Valia S.P., and Venkatram S., Asian Dyer, 11(1), 24, (2014). 2. Gulrajani M.L., Production of silk; Chemical processing of silk, Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, 1, (1993). 3. Roy Maulik S., Das D., and Bhattacharya S.C., Journal of Textile Institute, 102 (2), 131, (2011). 4. Roy Maulik S., Das D., and Bhattacharya S.C., Journal of Textile Institute, 102 (6), 491, (2011). 5. Roy Maulik S., International Conference on Environment and its impact on society, J D Birla Institute, Kolkata, 114, (2013). 6. Roy Maulik S., and Bhowmik L., International Conference on Environment and its impact on society, J D Birla Institute, Kolkata, 110, (2013). 7. Roy Maulik S., and Biswas P., Asian Dyer, 8 (2), 48, (2011). 8. Roy Maulik S., and Mandal S., Asian Dyer, 7 (2), 49, (2010). 9. Das D., Ray Maulik S., and Bhattacharya S.C., Indian J Fibre Text Res, 33 (2), 163, (2008). 10. Gokhale S.B., Tatiya A.U., Bakliwal S.R., and Fursule R.A., Nat Prod Rad, 3 (4), 228, (2004). 11. Gulrajani M.L., Indian J Fibre Text Res, 26 (3&4), 191, (2001). 12. Gulrajani M.L., and Gupta D.B., Natural Dyes and Their Application to Textiles, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, (1992). 13. Das D., Bhattacharya S.C., and Roy Maulik S., Int J Tea Sci, 4 (3&4), 17, (2005). 14. Das D., Bhattacharya S.C., and Roy Maulik S., Indian J Fibre Text Res, 31 (4), 559, (2006). 15. Gulrajani M.L., Gupta D. and Roy Maulik S., Indian J Fibre Text Res, 24 (2), 131, (1999). 16. Roy Maulik S., and Bhowmik L., Man Made Text India, 49 (4), 142, (2006). 17. Gulrajani M.L., Gupta D.B., Agarwal V., and Jain M., Indian Text J, 102 (1), 50, (1992). 18. Lee J.D., Concise Inorganic Chemistry, Blackwell Science Ltd. (1996). 19. Gupta D., Fastness Properties of Dyed Textiles: Natural Dyes and Their Application to Textiles, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, 99, (1992). 20. Allen N.S, Rev Prog Col, 17, 61, (1987). 21. Oakes J, Rev Prog Col, 31, 21, (2001). 22. Oakes J and Dixon S, Rev Prog Col, 34, 110, (2004). 23. Mukherjee A, Man Made Textiles India, 49 (6), 222, (2006) ❑ ❑ ❑ January - February 2015

FINISHING

PEER REVIEWED

Neem Charcoal Particles - Production and Size Analysis for Further Applications G. Gunasekaran1, S. Periyasamy2 & C. V. Koushik1 Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology 2 PSG College of Technology

Abstract The natural plants like neem and bamboo have unique beneficial characteristics that are very useful to the human being which has been proved in the previous research studies. The bamboo charcoal is having properties such as anti-bacterial, moisture management, thermal regulation, breathable, absorption and emission of far infrared energy, anti-static, self cleaning, de-odouring, etc. Hence the bamboo charcoal fabrics are gaining more importance and are widely used by people to get the above mentioned beneficial properties. In this line, a new idea came up to prepare the neem charcoal particles, to be applied on the fabrics for further research. The nanotechnology helps to acquire beneficial characteristics to that material and the user as the particle size become small. Hence, a new approach was evolved for the preparation of neem charcoal and its particles in very small size and in further research to apply it in the form of finish on fabrics to study its effect on important properties of fabrics. As a part of this work, the neem charcoal particles were produced to the size of 370.8 nm. The neem charcoal particles were characterized for their particle size and particle size distribution using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique.

It is to be noted that the availability of bamboo charcoal fibres, yarns and fabrics are limited and only from

a few parts of the world. Another concerning factor is the cost which is very high when compared with the regular fibres, yarns and fabrics. Similar to bamboo, the neem plant's leaves, seed, bark, etc, in one form or the other provide certain functional characteristics [3]. Dubey, Harish Kumar and Pandey observed that neem extracts are widely used by the Indian farmers to protect cotton crop from pests and fungi, and thus have potential as antibacterial agents for textiles [4]. It was revealed that the neem-chitosan composite treated cotton fabrics showed an increased antimicrobial activity [5]. As a step ahead in the research, the neem parts were converted in to charcoal and were studied. A study reports that the powder of neem leaves when converted into activated carbon by chemical activation has a tremendous potential as an industrial low-cost effective adsorbent [6]. Sutapa Chakrabarty et al. have found that the neem-stem charcoal to be an efficient adsorbent for purifying the contaminated drinking water [7]. Adsorption characteristics of Methylene blue were analysed using activated neem carbon and by using commercial coconut shell adsorbent by Alau et al. [8].

*All correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. G. Gunasekaran Associate Professor & Head Department of Fashion Technology Sona College of Technology TPT Main Road Salem -636 005 Email: gunaaonmail@gmail.com

Neem is a plant growing abundantly in India. Hence in this line, a new idea came up to utilize neem plant's parts and study the effect of its usage. As a new approach, in order to get the required properties in the

1. Introduction Natural plants possess abundant beneficial characteristics which are useful to the well-being of mankind. Especially, neem and bamboo are natural plants which have many numbers of beneficial characteristics. When certain plant's parts like stem, leaves, outer layer converted into charcoal, it was proved in the previous researches that they acquire enhanced beneficial characteristics. In one of the research works, it was revealed that the warmth retention, vapour permeability and water-absorption properties are improved in bamboo charcoal treated polyester knitted fabric [1]. Already bamboo-based charcoal fibres are being used in textiles in countries like Japan and China, to gain better thermal and breathing properties and to reduce the development of odours through sweating [2]. Because of this reason, the bamboo charcoal fabrics are gaining more importance and are widely used by people for getting the benefits out it.

January - February 2015

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Keywords Characterisation, charcoal, neem charcoal, particles, size distribution

FINISHING fabrics similar to bamboo charcoal, the neem wood was converted into charcoal and to be applied on the fabrics under further scope, to investigate whether any improvement in the mentioned properties were there or not. With the invention of nano technology, as the particle size becoming smaller and smaller, the material gains enhanced beneficial properties. This paper deals with a part of the above research work and contains the initial portions of this new attempt. The neem charcoal particles were produced in a simple method which was dealt with in detail with relevant illustrations. The neem charcoal particles were characterized for the average particle size, particle size distribution by using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique.

Figure 2.2: Container with lid-closed

2. Production of neem charcoal particles The neem charcoal particles production involves two stages, the first stage contains the preparation of neem charcoal and the second stage involves the conversion of the charcoal into very small particles.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 2.3: White smoke emerging from the container

2.1 Preparation of neem charcoal The wooden stem portion of neem also known as Azadirachta indica is taken for the study. In Tamil Nadu state it is given the local name 'Vembu'. Since no previous references are available for the production of neem charcoal, the procedure for the preparation of bamboo charcoal is taken as a guideline for producing the neem charcoal. In large scale production the bamboo wood will be converted into charcoal at a temperature of 800°C using a kiln. But for our research work purpose which is done at a small scale level, a simple method of producing charcoal was adopted as per the literature survey in a previous work [9]. The wooden pieces from the neem plant of 5 years or older were selected for this work. The required quantity of matured, raw neem pieces were cut into small pieces of size 0.7 cm × 0.7 cm × 10 cm. They were dried in shadow for a period of two weeks. The fully dried neem pieces were shown in Figure 2.1. Then they were carbonised in a flash-and-fire-point instrument as shown in Figures 2.2 to 2.4.

Figure 2.4: Yellow smoke emerging from the container

Figure 2.5: Neem charcoal

Figure 2.1: Dry neem sticks in container 352

The fully dried neem sticks prepared as per the dimension mentioned were placed inside a metallic container and placed in the flash-and-fire-point instrument as shown in Figure 2.1. The container is closed with a lid with small openings, to create a low-oxygen environment inside the container (condition required for charJanuary - February 2015

FINISHING

2.2 Conversion of charcoal in to neem charcoal particles A high-energy ball mill was used to produce the charcoal particles adopting the top-down method. The ball mill consists of an air-tight bowl made up of tempered steel, operated at a speed of 300 rpm. It also has balls and a rotating supporting disc. The grinding bowl and the supporting disc rotate in opposite directions, so that the resulting centrifugal forces act alternately in one direction and then in the opposite direction. During the manufaturing process, the grinding bowl, the balls in the mill and the material to be ground i.e. the charcoal pieces are acted upon by the centrifugal forces due to the rotation of the grinding bowl and the rotating supporting disc. The frictional effect thus produced reduces the charcoal pieces eventually to particles [10]. The process of producing charcoal micro particles took about the time duration of 12 hours carried out at room temperature. 3. Characterisation of charcoal micro-particles To predict the particle size and the particle size distribution of the neem charcoal particles, the characterisation of the charcoal particles was performed. The Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique of characterising the neem charcoal particles was employed for the purpose. The test was conducted under the following conditions and particulars.

Measurement Position (mm) Cell Description

: :

Attenuator

In this process, the particle size distribution of the powder is determined by a laser diffraction method with a multiple scattering technique. The charcoal powder was dispersed in de-ionised water and kept in an ultrasonic vibrator in order to get a homogenous solution. The experiment was carried out in computer controlled particle size analyzer [ZETA Sizer Ver.6.32 (Malvern Instruments Ltd.)] to find out the particle size and distribution. The results from the testing instrument for the neem charcoal particles are depicted in Table 3.1. Table 3.1: Particle characterisation results for neem charcoal particle size Peak No.

Particle Size (nm)

% Intensity

Width (nm)

Peak1

370.8

100.0

27.16

Peak2

0.000

0.0

0.000

Figure 3.1: Neem charcoal particle size distribution by intensity Table 3.2: Neem charcoal particle size distribution by Zeta potential

Peak No. Temperature Duration Dispersant name Dispersant RI Material RI Viscosity (mPa.s) Material Absorbtion Count Rate (kcps) January - February 2015

: : : : : : : :

25.10C 70 sec. Water 1.330 1.59 0.8872 0.010 195.1

4.65 Disposable sizing cuvette 11

Mean (mV) Area (%) Width (mV)

Peak1

- 14.7

100.0

5.33

Peak2

0.000

0.0

0.000

Peak3

0.000

0.0

0.000

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ring the bamboo wood) and also to allow smoke and gases to come out as depicted in Figure 2.2. Initially, the temperature was set at 120°C and the speed of carbonisation was observed to be slow. The temperature was then raised gradually from 120°C to 260°C. After about 15 minutes, white smoke appeared to come out as shown in Figure 2.3. This lasted for about five minutes and then a yellowish gas is emerging from the container which is illustrated in Figure 2.4, signalling the conversion of neem to neem-charcoal. The container was then removed from the instrument and the neem-charcoal was allowed to cool at room temperature. The neem-charcoal pieces, shown in Figure 2.5, were used to prepare the charcoal particles.

FINISHING The particle distribution is represented by Zeta potential at various total counts of the charcoal particles by means of a curve. The maximum total count of the neem charcoal particles (250000) lies at the Zeta potential of - 14.7mV with the prominent distribution from 0 to 35 mV.

Figure 3.2: Neem charcoal particle size distribution by Zeta potential

The neem charcoal particle size distribution is depicted in Tables 3.1, 3.2 and illustrated in Figures 3.1 and 3.2. The results (Figure 3.1) show that the neem charcoal particles measure the size 370.8 nm at 100 % intensity. In Figure 3.1, the particle size distribution is graphically illustrated by the average particle size at various intensity %. The particle size distribution is found to be higher at 2 intensity levels which are represented by 2 peaks in the distribution diagram. It was observed that the size of the charcoal particle lies in the range from 310 to 420 nm. The size d.nm as represented in the Table 3.1 is nothing but the nanometer (nm) which was reported as d.nm in the result directly printed from the instrument.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In Figure 3.2, the particle distribution is illustrated as the Zeta potential (mV) with respect to the total count of the particles represented by a curve. The particle distribution is found to be prominent at three Zeta potential levels which are represented by the curve in the distribution diagram. It was noted that the maximum count of the particles (250000) is observed at the Zeta potential of - 14.7 mV and the zeta deviation is found to be 5.33. The Zeta potential is noted to be more prominent in the region from 0 to -35 mV. 4. Conclusion The natural plant neem has certain unique characteristics which are beneficial to the well-being of human being. The neem charcoal can be produced in a small scale and in a simple way by using a flash-and-firepoint instrument at a temperature of 2600C over a period of 20-25 minutes in a low-oxygen environment. The average particle size and the particle size distribution of the neem charcoal particle produced can be anlysed through the characterization of the particles by Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique. The neem charcoal particles measure the size 370.8 nm at 100 % intensity. The particle size ranges from 300 to 500 nm. 354

5. Scope for further research The neem charcoal particles prepared may be applied as a finish on fabrics to study certain important characteristics such as anti-bacterial, wicking, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, etc. to find out the effect of the finish on these properties. Acknowledgement The authors like to extend their heartiest thanks to Mr. A. Sivaramakrishnan, P. Ranjithkumar and J. Rajkumar for their assistance in the experimental part of this research work. References Wang Qi, HE Shu-cai & MA Li-jun., Shanghai Textile Sci & Technol, 11, 54-55, (2006). 2. Lin CM, Chang CW., Textile Res J, 78 (7), 555560, (2008). 3. Girish K, Shankara Bhat S., Electronic J Biology, 4(3), 102-111, (2008). 4. Dubey RC, Harish Kumar RR, Pandey., J American Sci, 5(5), 17-24, (2009). 5. Rajendran R, Radhai R, Balakumar C., J Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 7, 136 - 141, (2012). 6. Ghanshyam Pandhare, Dawande SD., Int J Adv Engineering Technol, IV, 61 - 62, (2013). 7. Sutapa Chakrabarty, Sarma HP., Int J Chem Tech Res, 2, 511 - 516, (2012). 8. Alau KK, Gimba CE, Kagbu JA, Nale BY., Archives of Applied Sci Res, 2 (5), 451 - 455, (2010). 9. Junji Takano, www.pyroenergen.com/articles/howto-make-bamboo-charcoal.htm, (2013). 10. http://www.fritsch.de 1.

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Textsmile Teacher : 'Sam, what is the outside of a tree called?' Sam : 'I don't know.' Teacher : 'Bark, Sam, bark.' Sam : 'Bow, wow, wow!' January - February 2015

GARMENTING

PEER REVIEWED

Effect of Various Process Variables on Button Pullout Strength of Buttons Shelly Khanna* & Amandeep Kaur Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences, Abstract The paper aims at the elucidation of the effect of process variables for button attachment for apparels as Men's attire. A number of sewing threads of variable compositions, hand and machine needles along with button varieties were taken for the study to highlight the impact of hand and machine sewing operations on the performance of button attachment in terms of button pull strength. The modes and work done for button detachment have also been investigated, that is ought to be one of the prime area of concern for the garment technologists to produce quality apparels. Keywords Apparels, button attachment, detachment, garment technologists, machine sewing and needles

Button is a small round disc usually attached to an article of apparel or garment in order to secure an opening, or for decorative ornamentation. Buttoning is done by sliding the button through a fabric with reinforced slit called button hole or thread loop [1]*. Buttons are fashionable because these decorate and enhance the look of garments and related accessories.

Figure 1.1: Buttons *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Shelly Khanna, Assistant professor, Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences, Bhiwani, Haryana. Email: sh_khanna2002@yahoo.com January - February 2015

1.1 Button holes Button holes are used for insertion and holding the buttons that are purposeful for locking as well as retaining the buttons. Button holes can be made by hand with the use of button hole stitches or even a utility sewing machine be put to use [2]. Button holes often have a bar tack at either end that is a perpendicular stitch for the reinforcement of the open ends of a button hole. Button hole size is the length from the bar to bar but if the inside cut is too big or too small, the buttonhole cut can restrict button to slide in or easily slip out of buttonhole. Appropriate button hole opening is decided as button size (L) + button thickness. The variables related to the button hole include size of button, shape of button, style of button, stitch density, shape & dimensions of the button hole itself [3]. 1.2 History and Origin of Buttons During the ancient Indus Valley civilization (circa 28002600 BC) and Bronze Age sites in China (circa 20001500 BC), beads were found to be in use to fasten body covering materials like hide and fur. Beads were used as ornaments for their decorative and symbolic value rather than the fasteners but gradually the use modified to fasten layers of materials one over the other. The term is derived from the French word, button meaning a 'round object'. The earliest known button was originally used more as an ornament than as a fastening and the earliest known button was being found at Mohenjo-Daro in the Indus Valley. It was made up of a curved shell and about 5000 years old. Early buttons usually consisted of a decorative flat face that fit into a loop but reinforced buttonholes 355

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Buttons are small instruments use to fasten two parts of a garment. It is an element that makes the difference and enhances a men's or women's garment, a leather item, a pair of jeans or even non apparel items. Elegant and classical buttons means a unique style; perfectly shaped and allow the wearer's personality to stand out, enhancing a garment, a leather item, jeans or other secondary articles.

GRAMENTING weren't invented until the mid-13th century. Functional buttons with button-holes for fastening or closing clothing appeared first in Germany in the 13th century. These soon became widespread with the rise of snug fitting garments in 13thand 14th century in Europe. Since, that time the buttons have evolved both for the decorative and functional objectives as well [4]. Buttons are mostly used in all classes of men's, women's and kid's garments, as skirts, shirts, trousers, leather items, a pair of jeans, school bags, blouses, tops, Tshirts and home decor articles as cushion covers, pillow covers, blanket & quilt covers. Accessories as handbags, trendy footwear, headgears also exploit the use of decorative buttons. The selection of the buttons depends on the garment style, cost and care of the garments. The various types of the buttons are- shank button, two hole button, plastic button, resin button and wooden button [5].

Alloy Button

Coconut Button

Metal Button

Plastic Button

Resin Button

Wooden Button

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure1.2: Button types

1.3 Importance of Button Attachment The style of button attachment on garments varies according to the gender of person as for Men's garments, left over right and for women's apparels; right over left arrangement is performed [6]. The performance of the garment depends on the seams and stitches used for joining the different components of the garments. Along with this, the utility of the apparels also get affected by the trims and components used in them [7]. Thus, the trim such as buttons is important for study to determine the performance of the whole garment and the buttons as well [8]. 356

1.4 Button Attaching Mechanism Buttons can be attached by two main mechanisms as manual attachment and machine attachment. In manual button attaching mechanism, buttons are attached with hands with the use of a number of running stitches. In this mechanism, buttons are attached by with the help of button attachment machines. In this machine, fabric is stationary during each button cycle, but needle moves and perform every attachment action. The fabric is placed for a single button attachment in conventional button attaching machines, but in automatic button attaching machines, the fabric is provided with a movement for sequential button attachment. The button attachment machine is without any conventional presser foot, feed dog & throat plate. But all these components are replaced with button clamp holder & slider plate or spacer plate, that is used with a rectangular slit for needle movement in place of conventional slot because it provides more space for needle movement or needle penetration at the time of button attachment on the fabric surface. The variables affecting the performance of button attachment is a crucial area to be explored for seeking the potential benefits of trim attachment but fewer studies have been conducted on the same. This paper aimed at exploring the effects of different variables as sewing threads, sewing needles and button types on button pullout strength performance of various types of buttons with the comparative analysis of hand and machine sewing operations. Also, the mode of button detachment had been investigated at the instant of button failure. This was followed by the designing of a Men's shirt by using the interpreted results. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials Polyester/viscose blended (65/35) plain woven shirting fabric was used for the work with GSM 120, EPI 86, PPI 80 and thickness 0.00174 mm. Four types of sewing threads with different compositions and properties were undertaken for the work namely 100% Cotton, Poly-cotton core spun, Poly-poly core spun and 100% Polyester threads. The sewing thread specifications and properties are listed in Tables 2.1 & 2.2. Two sets of hand sewing needles with needle numbers 7 & 8 (N-7 & N-8) and two machine sewing needles with specifications as Organ- TQ 90/14 & Organ- TQ 100/16 (N-14 & N- 16) were chosen. Four variations of buttons as Small, Rectangle, Gilly and Red-Green had been worked upon with the details mentioned in January - February 2015

GRAMENTING Table 2.3. Table 2.1: Sewing Thread Specifications

Sr. no.

Thread Types

Tex

No. of Plies

Twist

TPI

100% Cotton (C)

6.5

100% Polyester (P)

6.2

Poly-Cotton Core Spun (P-C)

7.6

Poly-Poly Core Spun (P-P)

5.8

Table 2.2: Sewing Thread properties

Sr. Thread no. types

Tensile Strength (kgs)

CV%

Elongation

Loop strength (kgs)

CV% Knot Strength CV% (kgs)

0.665

3.93

0.80

1.17967

20.65

0.5798

5.84

0.991

6.58

1.08

1.3815

6.91

0.8972

12.88

P-C

1.863

2.23

1.73

2.322

6.34

1.01742

6.47

P-P

0.951

3.78

0.89

1.1694

6.56

0.55432

9.99

Sr. no.

Button Types

Diameter (1mm = 0.443296L)

Thickness (mm)

Small

2.5 mm

Rectangle

2.5 mm

Gilly

2.5 mm

Red- Green

2.5 mm

2.2 Method The work was carried out with hand as well as machine sewing by using three process variables namely 4 types of sewing threads, 4 classes of buttons and 2 sets of sewing needles for each type of operation. A skilled operator was engaged for hand sewing of buttons and a dedicated button attaching machine (Juki MB-372) with a cylinder bed, class 100 (STCS), SPI12 and two stitch cycles was used. A Computerized Button Snap Pull-Out tester (button pull strength testing) - ASTM D4551-09e1 (Figure 2.1 a, b & c) [9] was employed to evaluate the performance of the button attachment in terms of button pull or breaking load measured in kilograms (force). Also, buttons were tested initially for diameter and thickness with Vernier Caliper. All sets of sewing threads were tested for straight tensile strength, loop strength and knot strength. January - February 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.3: Button specifications

(A) Figure 2.1: a, b c Computerized Button Snap Pull-Out tester

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GRAMENTING

Figure 3.1: Button pull strength of buttons sewn with machine needles

(B)

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Figure 3.2: Button pull strength of buttons sewn with hand needles

(C) 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Effect of sewing threads type and needle fineness on button pull-out strength for Machine and Hand stitching operations The Poly-cotton core spun sewing threads have given the highest strength for all the needle numbers and also for both hand and machine operations. Also, the 100% cotton sewing threads have shown the minimum strength due to the inherent low strength of the threads. The cotton sewing threads are followed by 100% polyester and poly-poly core spun threads as shown in Figures 3.1 and 3.2. No significant effect has been observed on the button pull strength of the needle number for any thread and button type. This might be due to the reason that the needle sizes are compatible with the holes of the buttons and no needle breakages had been encountered. 358

3.2 Effect of operation type on button pull strength for different sewing threads with various needle types For comparing the efficiency and consistency of the mode of operation, the results have been constricted to one needle type for each operation i.e. Needle no. 14 for machine sewing and Needle no. 8 for hand sewing. The hand sewn results are poor in comparison to the machine button attachment. This is mainly due to the inconsistency of the work and depends mainly on the operator' skill. Also, the index of variability is very high for the hand operations for all the button types and all sets of sewing threads as detailed in Figure 3.3.

Figure 3.3: Effect of sewing operation on button pull strength of various buttons January - February 2015

GRAMENTING 4. Conclusion The button shape and size have a great impact on the button pull through strength as the size of the buttons gets too small or too big; the effectiveness of the button attachment reduces. The type and size of sewing thread greatly affects the performance of button attaching, the compatibility of the sewing thread size, needle size and button holes of sew- through buttons is an important consideration. The Poly cotton -core spun sewing threads had shown the highest pull through strength among all the chosen sewing threads due to the highest tex size and also with the highest tenacity. The size of the needle had shown very little effect on the button attachment performance for both the hand and machine sewing. The mode of button attachment is also important with respect to the durability of the stitches against being pulled off and also, the consistency of button attachment is important. Due to these reasons, machine button attachment is preferred over the manual attachment because of the lesser variability of the attachment process. The mode of failure of button attachment had been observed as sewing thread failure, full as well as partial button breakage, fabric pulling out and combined button and thread breakage as shown in Figure 4.1. Small buttons attached with Poly-cotton core spun sewing threads have shown the maximum button pull through strength with the least degree of variation, needle number 14 on the button attaching machine was used for the final production of the Men's shirt as shown in Figure 4.2

References 1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6.

8. 9.

http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/trimsclosures-accessories.html. http://www.craftsy.com. www.ChinaTrimmings.com. Stewart J., 'The simple, humble, surprisingly sexy button' (2012, June 14) Retrieved 2014, August26 http://www.slate.com/articles/life/design/2012/06/ button_history_a_visual_tour_of_button_design_ through_the_ages_.html. http://www.ykkfastening.com/products/types/ t_snap_button.html. Benjamin R., 'Why Are Men's and Women's Buttons on Opposite Sides' (2010, July 06) Retrieved 2014, December 25 from http://www.livescience.com/32681-why-are-mensand-womens-buttons-on-opposite-sides.html. Carr H and Latham B., 'Garment accessories and enhancements', Technology of Clothing Manufacture, 4th edition, Ed. David J. Tyler, Blackwell Publishing Ltd., UK, 193, (2008). http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/06/28/sewing-on-a-button. http://www.globetexindustries.in/laboratory-testing-fabric-testing instruments.html. ❑ ❑ ❑

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Figure 4.1: Mode of button detachment

Figure 4.2: End product: Men's shirt January - February 2015

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TEXPERIENCE

Productive and Protective Microbiology in Textile Industry Dr. Madhura P. Nerurkar

Dr. Madhura P. Nerurkar

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She is the founder of Calantha Biotech Pvt. Ltd.- a research based laboratory that provides antimicrobial testing services in textiles, polymers, foods and many other products and conducts research on microbial products like colourants, enzymes and polysaccharides. She has pursued her PhD. in biotechnology at the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology from Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai under the guidance of Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar post her MSc. Lifesciences degree, Ruia College, Matunga, Mumbai. She has also worked as a Research Fellow on a Department of Biotechnology (DBT), Govt. of India sponsored project and has authored 7 research articles in famed national and international journals for microbiology and textiles.

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1. Background The prospects of microbiology in the textile sector is rising these days due to the wide range of products which can be obtained using controlled industrial fermentation technology. In the beginning, the concept of microbiology in textiles was only confined to the antimicrobial fabrics wherein the fabrics are finished with antimicrobial agents and then tested for the efficiency against microorganisms that cause skin infections. However, in today's scenario of textile research, many microorganisms have proved beneficial to mankind by generating products such as microbial enzymes, colourants etc. have also gained tremendous importance in the textile wet processing and dyeing sectors. Thus, microbiology holds an important position in textiles in three major areas viz. microbial enzymes, microbial colourants and antimicrobial textiles. The conventional textile wet processes and dyeing involves the use of solutions of concentrated sodium hydroxide, surfactants and chelators at boiling temperatures. These chemicals, after use, are discharged into the nearby freshwater reserves as effluent. This leads to contamination of the fresh water making it unfit for human consumption. Moreover, these chemicals damage the outer mucus layer that coats the fishes protecting them from parasitic bacteria, fungi and protozoa. In addition, these processes requires a high energy input, generate a large amount of biochemical and chemical oxygen demand. On the fabric level, oxidative damage may take place resulting in reduced tensile strength of the fabric. To prevent any damage to the ecosystem, it is important to minimize the use of traditional chemicals in the various stages of textile processing. Synthetic dyes have been extensively used in the textile industries due to their ease and cost-effectiveness in synthesis, high stability towards light, temperature and technically advanced colours covering the whole colour spectrum. However, this has resulted in the discharge of large amount of highly coloured waste water that not only affects water transparency in water bodies but also creates problems for photosynthetic plants and algae since light absorption is hindered by synthetic dyes. In addition, many synthetic dyes are toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic leading to several human health problems. Thus, inclusion of microbial products like enzymes and colourants in the textile wet processes is the need of the hour. 2. Why Microbial Products? In spite of the availability of variety of plant and animal based enzymes and colourants, using plants and animals in production of enzymes and colourants is not sustainable due to their low yields, production being seasonal and large scale destruction of species which in turn affects the biodiversity. Hence, there is an ever-growing interest in the microbial products due to the several reasons like their natural character, safety to use, production using fermentation and being independent of seasons and with a predictable yield. Some of the microbial dyes have inherent antibacterial properties, so the textiles dyed with the microbial dyes will give antimicrobial properties along with the dyeing. Moreover microbial culJanuary - February 2015

TEXPERIENCE

3. Microbial Enzymes 3.1. Enzyme Production by Microorganisms Enzymes are chemically proteins in nature that consist of long chains of amino acids held together by peptide bonds. Microorganisms that produce enzymes can be obtained from various different natural areas namely river water, soil, estuary, sand, rotten fruits and vegetables, decaying wood etc. The first step is the procurement of the samples from these areas followed by screening of these samples for acquiring the desired enzyme producing microorganism. Once the microorganism is selected, it is subjected to large scale enzyme production using fermentation process. The enzyme is collected from the microbial cells by centrifugation followed by ultrafiltration or ion-exchange filtration. This enzyme sample is now ready for application. 3.2. Role of enzymes in the textile industry The textile industry already has started making use of enzymes in few of its industrial processes. The commercial application of amylase in biodesizing of cotton fabric for the complete removal of the sizing agent, majorly Starch, without any damage to the fabric is well-known. Another enzyme, Cellulase, is used in a process known as 'Bio-Stonewashing'. A small dose of cellulase works by loosening the indigo dye on the denim and this process can replace several kilograms of pumice stones. The use of less pumice stones results in less damage to garment, machine and less pumice dust in the laundry environment. In the degumming of silk and wool processing, proteases are used. However, the use of enzymes in all the areas of wet processes is not commercialized yet. 4. Microbial Colourants 4.1. Colourant Production by Microorgainsms Colourant producing microorganisms have been found in diverse habitats such as soil, fresh and marine water, air, milk, industrial wastes etc. Thus, screening of samples from this habitat to obtain colourant producing microorganisms is frequently done using traditional surface spread technique. On obtaining the desired colourant producing microorganism, the next step is the mass production of the colourant. Since the use of microbial colourants in textiles is a new concept and still research is going on, the microbial colourants are usually produced using the submerged liquid fermentation techniques. Fermentation is followed by the extraction of the colourants from the microorganism. Solvent extraction procedures are generally used as January - February 2015

most of the colourants are insoluble in water and this colourant extract is used as a microbial dye for dyeing textile fabrics. Colourant purification methods include chromatography techniques while structural analysis of the colourants is based on the FTIR, NMR studies. Exhaust dyeing techniques are used for dyeing of natural and synthetic fibres with microbial colourants. Evaluation of the dyed fabrics for colour strength and fastness properties is usually done by the standard ISO and AATCC methods. 4.2. Limitations The fabrics dyed with microbial colourants show excellent rubbing fastness and satisfactory wash fastness but the light fastness properties are found to be poor. Since majority of the microbial colourants are solvent extracts, the dyeing of fabrics through such medium is economically not feasible. Moreover, a complete shade gamut covering the whole colour spectrum like those of synthetic dyes is till now unavailable in case of microbial colourants. Thus, the future work of interest would be pretreatment of fabrics or chemical modification of the microbial colourants to improve the fastness properties and screening more samples to obtain microorganisms producing pigments giving all colour shades. Hence, if we overcome the limitations of microbial colourants, they can serve as a noteworthy source of natural dyes in future. 5. Antimicrobial Textiles In this segment of microbiology, the textiles provide protection against microorganisms that cause skin infections. The control of the microorganisms can be achieved through normal antimicrobial finishing processes of the fabrics. The antimicrobial finishing can control smells, discolouration, spots and degradation of the fabric caused due to microbial attack. Antimicrobial agents are chemical substances obtained naturally or synthesized in the laboratory and inhibit the growth of microorganisms. The application of antimicrobial agent on textiles increases the life of the fabric because the agent doesn't allow the microorganism to proliferate. Thus, smaller the proliferation of microorganism more is the life of the fabric. To check the antimicrobial activity of the fabrics, various standard procedures have been designed by AAATCC, ISO and other organisations. Thus, to reduce the effluent load on environment, inclusion of beneficial microbial products in the textile wet processing and simultaneously designing antimicrobial textiles for fighting against harmful microorganisms is the need of the hour. 361

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tures are easy to handle and maintain in the laboratory.

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffold in future.

Chapter 4 : Techniques for manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds Miss. Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaffolds and the application of textiles in it. In the previous chapter we tried to put forth the use of various bio-polymers for the manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds and the classification of the biopolymers and various characteristics useful for their application.

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In the present chapter, the various techniques used for the manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds are discussed along with need and importance of the techniques which show specific application in engineering of scaffolds. Chapter 4: Techniques for manufacturing of Tissue engineering scaffolds As seen from the last chapter the use of bio-polymers for manufacturing tissue engineering scaffolds is increased in recent times. The important reason of using bio-polymers is the flexibility in processing of the same. The process flexibility of the materials is necessary for making scaffolds since they are made according to need of the scaffold and their application. The specifications required for the scaffolds vary every time as per their end-application. These specifications cannot be met using only one manufacturing technique. New techniques are continuously being evolved for manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds. These new techniques can be used in synergy for imitating the structure of tissues. The tissue present in any part of the body is not a single pattern, but a multiple array of different patterns which together perform a specific body function. In order to make tissue engineering scaffolds the imitation of these patterns is obligatory so that the growth of the tissue on the scaffold takes place according to the original tissue structure. In order to meet the requirements of the different patterns, the tissue engineering scaffolds are made using different techniques. Each different technique offers 362

advantages and disadvantages in the form of control over pore morphology, ability to incorporate bioactive molecules, mechanical properties and cost. Techniques are evolved using variation in heat, pressure and/or organic solvents or incorporating cells and bioactive molecules directly into the polymer. There are other variations that are employed for making tissue engineering scaffolds but there can be difficulties in mass production. As all the tissue engineering scaffolds are designed as per the required application, the techniques that meet the requirement to provide optimal conditions are employed for manufacturing. The common tissue engineering scaffold fabrication techniques which are used in any applications are discussed in the following text. 1. Solvent Casting / Particulate Leaching (SC/PL) As the name suggests, the technique of solvent casting/particulate leaching comprises of dissolving the biodegradable polymer in an organic solvent, adding a water-soluble porogen of desired size range to this polymer solution and then casting into a mold of desired shape. After the solvent has evaporated, the material is vacuum dried to remove any residual solvent. The polymer/porogen composite is then leached in water to extract the salt and dried again. Advantages of the SC/PL technique include control over the porosity (up to 97%) and pore size of the scaffold based on the percentage and size range of the porogen selected, respectively. Additionally, porogen selection can also be used to impart a desired pore shape. Organic solvents like hexane, methanol, ethanol are used along with porogens like NaCl, citric acid, ammonium carbonate, sugar or paraffin. However there are difficulties like lack of interconnectivity in pores and residual solvents affecting the cell growth and also the SC/PL is a batch process. 2. Gas Foaming (GF) In gas foaming technique, the drawback of using organic solvent can be eliminated by using a gas (mostly CO2) to foam the polymeric material. Solvent cast polymer disks or polymer disks formed by compresJanuary - February 2015

TEXNOTE

3. Gas Foaming/ParticulateLeaching (GF/PL) Due to the aforementioned drawbacks of the SC/PL and GF processes, namely the use of organic solvents, batch processes, and poor interconnectivity, processes of using GF/PL process in synergy have been developed. The use of the two techniques together increase the interconnectivity of the pores since the nucleation pores due to gas foaming and the pores due to the removal of porogen help achieve more number of pores connected to each other. 4. Emulsion Freeze-Drying (EFD) The emulsion freeze-drying method is also used to produce tissue engineering scaffolds. The method involves forming an emulsion of bio-polymer solution with water as dispersed phase. The emulsion is then casted into a mold and quenched rapidly with liquid nitrogen solidifying the emulsion mixture. The mixture is then exposed to vaccum at -50 o C. at low pressure of 30 Torr where both the solvent of the polymer solution and water are sublimed. Vacuum desiccator is used to remove the remaining solvents after drying. Highly interconnected pores with pores size of 10 to 35 and porosity up to 95 % can be produced using this method. This method is able to produce scaffolds with a high volume of an interconnected porous structure. Process variability can be achieved by varying the types of solvents, polymers, and the ratio in which they are used. Various bio-polymers like collagen, chitin, alginate, PGA, PLLA, PLGA and their blends are used for making scaffolds using the emulsion freeze drying technique. The limitation of the process is that the pore morphology is of closeended pores. 5. Thermally Induced Phase Separation (TIPS) The thermally induced phase separation method uses a high-temperature polymer solution, consisting of a biocompatible polymer in a solvent (e.g., phenol, dioxane, or naphthalene). When reducing the solution temperature to below the melting point of the solvent, phase separation occurs, forming a polymer-rich phase and a solvent-rich phase. The solvent of the solidified January - February 2015

solvent-rich phase is sublimed, changing from the solid phase to the gaseous state directly. With this technique, a variety of foams with pore sizes ranging from 20 to 500 mm have been fabricated. It is also possible to incorporate many nutrients like different proteins with minimal loss of activity using this method. The variability in the products can be obtained by varying the type of polymer, type of solvent and polymer-tosolvent ratio. The desired pore morphology can be obtained by varying the process conditions. Gradation in pore size from macro-porous (which facilitates delivery of cells and growth factors) to nano-porous size (advantageous for neo-vascularization) can be obtained by combining the phase separation process with particulate leaching using paraffin microspheres, salt or sugar particles. 6. Solid Freeform FabricationTechniques Solid Freeform fabrication techniques were initially discovered in the late 1980s and early 1990s as a way to rapidly prototype required designs in a quick, costeffective manner. It is also known as rapid prototyping. Since the primary requirement of the tissue engineering scaffold is to imitate the structure of the desired tissue, it is very important for the scaffold to be in the shape of the desired tissue. Hence, advancements in computer aided design (CAD) and the types of materials processed have led to a plethora of research into the use of SFF techniques for manufacturing tissue engineering scaffolds. SFF techniques require a solid model of the scaffold to be developed prior to processing. Software programs then slice the model into several subunits that are then built up consecutively using an additive manufacturing technique to create a complex 3D structure. The main advantage of SFF techniques is the ability to precisely control porosity, pore size, pore shape, and interconnectivity. This aids in the viability of cells as well as being able to control the mechanical properties to a certain extent, as the bulk properties of the scaffold are highly dependent on porosity, material used, and the strength of the bondholding the polymer particles together. The SFF technique has been employed in various ways possible to create a 3 D structure and mimic the desired tissue. The different technologies applied for the use of the technique is given further. 6.1 Stereo-lithography (SL) Stereo-lithography was the first commercialization of the SFF technique. The technology of it involves the use of photo-curable resin and an ultraviolet (UV) laser. The photo-curable resin is polymerized layer by layer 363

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sion molding polymer pellets are saturated with CO2 in a high-pressure chamber. Once the polymer is saturated with CO2, a rapid pressure drop triggers a thermodynamic instability in the polymer/gas solution, leading to the nucleation and growth of cells/pores. The use of organic solvents is eliminated in this method however the interconnectivity of the pores is an issue and it can be carried out only in batches.

TEXNOTE

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to create a 3D construct. Initially, a moveable platform is lowered into a vat of photo-curable resin to coat the resin over the platform. The platform is then raised and a leveling wiper or vacuum blade moves across the surface to provide an evenly coated layer of resin. To build each layer, the laser is guided across the surface, drawing a cross-sectional pattern in the x-y plane to form a solid section (through curing of the resin). The platform is then lowered along with the cured layer, which is attached to the platform, and the process is repeated with the next slice of the model until the 3D geometry is completed. Once completed, the uncured resin is washed away and the 3D construct is then subjected to a post-curing process, yielding a fully cured part. One of the main challenges faced with SL for tissue engineering application is the use of a photo-curable resin as the scaffold material. Initially the researchers used composite of bio-polymers with acrylate polymers mixed with photo-initiators to process using stereo-lithography. Also the limitations result due to the precision in the movement given to the platform which gives the thickness of the cross section. The spot of the laser also is the contributing factor. The limitation though could be overcome by increasing the resolution but it results in striking increase of the time required. The thickness of 100 mm and laser spot of 5 mm are the least dimensions achieved in the research. 6.2 Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) The fused deposition modeling process as the name indicates is a process which involves the controlled deposition of the fused polymer. Polymer filament is supplied on a spool and fed to an extrusion head where it is heated above the glass transition temperature (Tg) for amorphous polymers and just above the melt temperature (Tm) for semi crystalline polymers. The molten polymer is extruded as the extrusion head moves in the x-y plane to form a thin slice of the 3D model created by CAD software. The polymer melt solidifies quickly and upon completion of the first slice, the base is lowered and the process is repeated until the 3D construct is created. The direction of material deposition, or lay-down pattern, can be changed for each layer to provide variations in mechanical properties and pore morphology in the case of porous structures. Advantages of the FDM process include the ability to form a fully interconnected pore network in complex 3D structures. Additionally, no organic solvents are involved in this process. Though a high degree of precision can be achieved in the x-y plane, control of the z-direction is limited and governed by the diameter 364

of the material extruded through the extrusion head. The most important drawback of FDM is that, it precludes the use of natural polymers and only synthetic bio-polymers can be used for making the 3D structures with FDM. However, the wide range of porosities and achievable mechanical properties make FDM a highly researched process for fabricating tissue engineering scaffolds. 6.3 Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) The selective laser sintering process involves the fusion of the polymers into a developed 3D construct using laser technology. A layer of thermoplastic powder is deposited and leveled on a built platform. A heat-generating CO2 laser is guided along the crosssection of the 3D model in the x-y plane, selectively fusing the polymer particles together. The powder bed may be pre-heated to reduce the time and laser energy required to fuse the particles. The un-fused particles remain in the plane and act as a support structure for subsequent layers. After the first layer is fused, the platform is lowered, another layer of material is deposited, and the process is repeated. The heat generated from the laser fuses each subsequent layer to the layer beneath it until the 3D construct is completed. The un-fused polymer particles are then removed with a post processing treatment, leaving behind the 3D model created by the CAD software. This process can be used with a variety of materials including polymers, metals and ceramics. SLS can be used to create porous structures that have excellent interconnectivity, though the achievable pore size is generally of the order of 50 mm or less. The pore size and porosity are dependent on the size of the polymer particles, the amount of force used to compact the particles when they are deposited, and the spot size of the laser. SLS technique can give scaffold with very has compressive strength up to 2 MPa. Although no organic solvents are used in SLS, the incorporation of bioactive molecules is limited due to the high temperatures used for fusing the polymer particles together. Additionally, the use of SLS makes it possible to accurately produce porous, complex 3D geometries that can act as tissue engineering scaffolds. 6.4 Three-Dimensional Printing (3DP) The three-dimensional printing process was first developed at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. In this process, a layer of thermoplastic powder is deposited onto a build piston and leveled by a roller. An ink-jet printing head scans the surface in the x-y plane, selectively depositing a binder to create the first January - February 2015

TEXNOTE

7. Self assembly Self assembly is the spontaneous organization of the molecules into well defined ordered structure required for specific function. The self assembly of the biopolymers can give nano-scale fibres or nano-fibres. Amphiphilic peptide sequence is a common method for the fabrication of 3D nano-fibrous structure for tissue engineering. In aqueous solution the hydrophobic and hydrophilic domains within these amphiphilic peptides interact together with the help of weak non covalent bonds (eg. Hydrogen bond, Van der Waals interactions, ionic bond and hydrophobic interaction) thus producing distinct fast recovering hydrogel, with the hydrophobic interactions as the molecules come together. Synthetic di-block polymer can also be used for manufacturing 3D construct nano-fibers by using self assembly. Polymeric dendrimers can also self-assemble into nanofibers. 8. Freeze-drying Freeze drying technique is use for the fabrication of porous scaffolds. This technique is based upon the principle of sublimation. Polymer is first dissolved in a solvent to form a solution of desired concentration. January - February 2015

The solution is frozen and solvent is removed by lyophilization under the high vacuum that fabricates the scaffold with high porosity and interconnectivity. This technique is applied to a number of different polymers including silk proteins, PGA, PLLA, PLGA, PLGA/ PPF blends. The pore size can be controlled by the freezing rate and pH; a fast freezing rate produces smaller pores. Controlled solidification in a single direction has been used to create a homogenous 3Dpore structure. Main advantage of this technique is that, it neither requires high temperature nor separate leaching step. The drawback of this technique is smaller pore size and long processing time. 9. Traditional Polymer Processing Techniques The bio-polymers used for construction of TE scaffolds can also be processed by the conventional polymer processing techniques which gives the formation of either long continuous filaments or short fibres which can be further processed to form either fabric with different weave of non-woven sheet using the various techniques available. This is the textile point of view which has been covered in the second chapter of the series. Also the bio-polymers can be processed and can be made into various forms like pellets, granules, powders, sheets, fluids as the different polymers are processed for their specific end-use application in paints and polymer industry. These forms can be further processed by subjecting it to a variety of secondary operations such as welding, adhesive bonding, machining, or surface decorating (painting, metalizing). The various combinations of the forms and the operations are employed for the manufacturing of various tissue engineering constructs as per the requirement. A variety of processes have been employed to produce tissue engineering scaffolds, as discussed in the following sections. 9.1. Extrusion Extrusion is a continuous process in which pellets or granules are plasticized and homogenized through the rotation action of a screw (or screws in cases of twinscrew extruders) inside a barrel. The melt is continuously pushed under pressure through a shaping die to form the final product. As material is passing through the die, the extrudate initially acquires the shape of the die opening, but changes its shape due to the structural recovery. Depending on the types of die, products of various shapes can be made such as tubing, pipe, film, sheet, wire, substrate coatings, and other profiles. Similar to the particulate leaching combination of two polymers (e.g. PCL and PEO) one having 365

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layer of the 3D construct. The un-bound particles remain as structural support. Once the binder has properly bonded the particles together, the build piston is lowered, another layer of powder is deposited, and the process is repeated for each subsequent layer until the 3D model created by the CAD software has been completed. The un-fused particles are then removed via vacuum, leaving behind the particles selectively fused by the binder in the form of the 3D model. Highly interconnected pores having porosity up to 70 % is achievable with high precision in the shape geometry and morphology. The 3DP process can incorporate different materials in subsequent layers and allows for excellent interconnectivity. However, difficulties are faced in the complete removal of the unbound particles and the organic solvents used as binders. These limitations are approached by use of water based binders such as polyvinyl alcohol. The resolution up to 200 mm (horizontally) and 100 mm (vertically) can be achieved using 3DP technology. Incorporation of salt particulates further enhances the formation of macroporous structure geometry. The flexibility of materials used to fabricate complex 3D structures, the achievable mechanical properties, and the high interconnectivity make 3DP one of the most highly researched SSF techniques for fabricating tissue engineering scaffolds.

TEXNOTE water solubility can be used to obtain porous structure. The water soluble component can be selectively extracted by placing it in water. The inclusion of a porogen in the melt is also possible however the porogen should retain the size as desired without undergoing erosion and breakdown in the extrusion process.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

9.2. Melt Spinning Melt spinning is an effective method for manufacturing polymer fibers. The polymer is melted and extruded from a spinneret, forming continuous filaments of polymer. The spinneret for melt spinning can have varied shape and diameters, thus giving more permutations in ensuring the requirements for TE scaffolds are met. Often the material is extruded into a monofilament or multifilament yarn, which is drawn and solidified by cooling (air is commonly used), and then wound onto spools, or processed further, such as by texturizing, weaving, or braiding, to make a more complex application. The most common medical application for melt spun fibers is as sutures. However, they are increasingly being explored for usage as tissue engineering scaffolds. Multifilament yarns created through melt spinning are often used as vascular grafts. Applications for melt spinning are somewhat limited due to the large fiber size (10-12 mm), which is a frequent drawback of typical extrusion methods. 9.3. Electro-spinning Electro-spinning, or electrostatic fiber spinning, is an old polymer processing technology dating back to 1934, which has many applications in tissue engineering scaffolds, drug delivery vehicles, textiles, and filters. This method involves applying a high voltage electrical charge (5e30 kV) to a liquid polymer solution or polymer melt. This charge overcomes the surface tension of the polymer, forming a Taylor cone (where a pendant cone is formed due to balancing of surface tension by electrostatic force), which ejects a charged liquid jet of polymer which is elongated by a series of movements called electrostatic repulsion, forming an interconnected web of fibers. Due to the high speeds of the ejected liquid and the dynamic bending motion, it is difficult to control the deposition of the fibers. Electro-spun scaffolds may be formed from biocompatible synthetic polymers such as PLLA, PLGA, PVOH, poly (ethylene-co-vinyl acetate), PEO, PU and polycarbonates, natural polymers including collagen/gelatin, chitosan, hyaluronic acid (HA), elastin, or silk fibroin, or a blend of natural and synthetic polymers. The polymers are dissolved in a solvent and 366

the solution or melt is expelled from a syringe at a constant rate. The solvent evaporates and the polymer dries as the fibers land on a grounded collecting drum, plate, or other specially shaped collecting device, forming the scaffold. These scaffolds can be highly porous (greater than 90%) with nonwoven fibers on the micro or nanoscale. Typical fiber diameters range from 200 nm to 5 mm. Many factors affect the properties of the scaffold such as scaffold size, pore size, and diameter and orientation of the fibers. The properties can be changed by varying the type of solvent, rate of ejection, melt viscosity, concentration of polymers, voltage and uniformity of the electric field, capillary diameter, type of collection device, or distance from the capillary or nozzle to the collection device. They may also utilize other materials within the fibers or as coating to promote cell differentiation, growth, and adhesion. Additionally, living cells can be incorporated into the scaffold by concurrently electro-spinning with the polymer. Electro-spun tissue engineering scaffolds have many applications, including use as bone, cartilage, vascular, and neural scaffolds. Electro-spun bone scaffolds are currently being explored that include bone grafts and scaffold membranes which will assist with guided bone regeneration. One promising use for electro-spun scaffolds involves the production of vascular scaffolds using natural polymers collagen and elastin or collagen and synthetic polymers such as PLGA, which may be utilized as vascular grafts, heart tissue scaffolds, or new bloodvessels with the proper mechanical properties and biocompatibility. 9.4. Injection Molding Injection molding is a "continuous" cyclic process of forming plastic into a desired shape by forcing the material under pressure into a cavity that has the shape of the final part. The shaping is achieved by cooling (thermo-plastics) or by a chemical reaction (thermosets). It is one of the most common and versatile operations for mass production of complex plastics parts with excellent dimensional tolerance and net-shape. It requires minimal or no finishing or assembly operations. In addition to thermoplastics and thermo-sets, the process is being extended to such materials as fibers, ceramics, and powdered metals, with polymers as binders. Moreover, numerous attempts have been made to develop various special injection molding processes to produce parts with special design features and properties. Some of these alternative processes derived from conventional injection molding, such as microcellular injection molding, have created a new era for tissue engineering scaffold fabrication. It has January - February 2015

Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Prcessing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and tissue engineering. Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Prcessing Technology in the department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and Effluent treatment. Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published more than 100 papers in journals of national and International repute. January - February 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

About the Authors

www.textileassociationindia.org

been mentioned in the literature that while synthetic biodegradable polymers can easily be fabricated into 3D shapes using injection molding, but it is difficult to fabricate scaffolds because of the need to create high porosity. Blowing agents are used to create porous morphology in the injection-molded scaffolds. Also the technique of SC/PL is adapted to injection molding in a research. Even though this research requires the use of organic solvents, it describes a method to mass produce highly porous, interconnected 3D scaffolds. However the porogen may be eroded and broken down to cause the undesired irregularities in the pore size.

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A new catalyst for Textile Engineering Industry Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show-2015 by India ITME Society created a landmark event for Textile Engineering Industry in India & overseas. The event which focused on Post spinning Sectors attracted exhibitors from 12 Countries & visitors from 32 Countries with visitor flow continuing late into evening on 3rd day even after closing time of the exhibition. The event was opened by Mr. Narendra L Shah, Past Chairman & Hon. Life member, Mr. G.T. Dembla, Past Chairman & Hon. Life Member, Mr. Bachkaniwala, Past Chairman & Hon. Life Member of India ITME Society.

Lighting of lamp - 20th January 2015 - Opening of GTTES-2015

Many first time products were displayed & new technology launched at GTTES-2015.

exhibitors. Mr. Porwal said, "I am happy to see that GTTES 2015 visitors representing all segments of the manufacturing chain from India & China & many other have converged here creating new opportunities for the State & Country". Mr. Vishvajit Sahay, Joint Secretary, Department of Heavy Industry, Govt. of India, visited the show and took keen interest in the exhibits from across India and globe. Ambassadors and Consul General from 17 Countries visited the Exhibition highlighting importance of India in Textile sector & the keen interest GTTES generated internationally.Day 2 of the event presented the "opportunities in Ethiopia" & held interactive session on the topic with Mr. Sileshi Lemma, Director General, Textile Industry Development Institute, Govt. of Ethiopia. These efforts generated business for exhibitors & business visitors from African countries placed an order for multiple machinery. GTTES 2015 welcomed Hon. Minister Sri Ramdas Kadam, Cabinet Minister of Environment. Mr. Kadam personally visited each exhibitor and appreciated the display of each machinery & technology. He also encouraged and assured to boost the textile sector and its various requirements wherever applicable. Many exhibitors expressed satisfaction at the quality of exhibition, event management & level of business visitors.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited showcased the latest electronic terry rapier weaving machine (model GA738-I equipped with electronic dobby). This machine has excellent features needed for the production of terry fabric with high quality and provides excellent "VALUE FOR MONEY". With 282 India and foreign exhibitors, GTTES expo covered an area of 11,500 sq. metres earning the distinction of being the largest textile technology event in India after India ITME Expo series. This event was visited by high level government delegation, delegates from Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Korea and from textile dept., Heavy Industry, Govt. of India and industrial delegation from India and overseas creating wide spread excitement and anticipation amongst exhibitors and industry members. Mr. Sunil Porwal, Additional Chief Secretary (Textile) Govt. of Maharashtra, visited GTTES & interacted with 368

(L to R : Mr. Vaidya, Ms Seema Srivastava, Hon. Minister Mr. Ramdas Kadam, Mr. Sanjiv Lathia, Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala& Mr. Shekhar Shirdhankar)

Mr. VallabhThumar, Chairman & MD of Alidhra Weavetech Group observed that "The objective of this special series event is not only to showcase technology and machinery but also to address the needs of quality, variety, allied services and access to both reJanuary - February 2015

NEWS gional markets and clientele, especially for small & medium enterprises." Mr. G V Aras, Director, Textile Engineering Group quoted, "GTTES 2015 was a wise move by the organizers for focusing more on weaving & processing machines which automatically targets & boost the small & medium scale textile manufacturers in India. A.T.E. has gained several unexpected business proposals from Tier II & Tier III cities manufacturers and we are happy to be here at the right time and right place." Mr. Fritz Legler, VP - Marketing / Sales & Services, Staubli also expressed his views that," though the economic slowdown has affected India's textile industry, we are surprised to see very encouraging footfalls at GTTES & the participation of Chinese exhibitors".

TEXFAIR 2015 IN INDIA: RIETER PRESENTS TECHNOLOGY COMPONENTS AND CONVERSIONS sents the organised textile industry in South India and also organizes the Texfair. Texfair is the most important international trade fair for the Indian textile industry. It took place from 9 to 12 January 2015 in Coimbatore. Rieter showcased its technology components and conversions for all four spinning systems, combined with a wide range of information for the exhibition visitors.

(L to R: Mr. Suresh Halvankar, MLA of Ichalkaranji with Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, Mr. SanjivLathia, Chairman India ITME Society & Seema Srivastava, ED, India ITME Society)

GTTES-2015, first edition proved to be an excellent example of the noble efforts of the Society to support the textile engineering industry through high quality exhibition, creating fruitful visitor interaction, showcasing new range of technology and developing new markets for exhibitors. It is successfully placed Textile & Textile Engineering Industry of India in the limelight through high standard global events in the Country. January - February 2015

Original Rieter Spare Parts

Rieter presented miniature models of all 4 end spinning machines, technology upgrades and conversions, spare part kits and the ELO service model. In this way, Rieter wishes to bring the latest state-of-the-art technology closer to its customers - the most modern machines, European quality standards with spare parts, accessories and services for yarn manufacturers. This will enable customers to modernise their companies according to the latest developments in the complete Rieter product range. Rieter maintains a wide range of spare parts, technology parts and conversions. Rieter modernizations bring customers' machines up to the latest technological level and enable them to spin yarns of the highest quality.

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Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITME Society shared that the 1stedition of GTTES exhibition has grown in stature and prestige beyond expectation with 282 Exhibitors, 32 Countries 29,000 visitors' footfall, 23 Media partners, 5 educations institutions and 15 supporting organizations. Heavy Industry Dept. & Textile Dept., Govt. of Maharashtra supported the event & Govt. of India actively participated with officials interacting with Industry members.

NEWS

BIRLA Cellulose presents SS16 collection, "Free by Nature "at PREMIER VISION 2015, Paris. From plantation to fashion and lifestyle, Birla Cellulose is a name that is touching lives across the world. With plantations, factories and marketing offices it reach out to many countries, making an impact on the global textile and non-woven businesses. It started as a vision of the US $40 Billion Aditya Birla Group that foresaw the opportunity and availability of fibres and identified the need for a suitable natural, man-made fibre that would eventually take the textile world by storm. It gives us a great sense of pride to say that Birla Cellulose is a world leader in viscose staple fibre with 4 plants in India, one each in Thailand, Indonesia and China giving it a lion's share of the market. The fibre units have full integrations within the group for Pulp with plants, one each in India and Sweden and three in Canada, caustic soda and captive power. Birla Cellulose is the umbrella brand for Aditya Birla Group's Cellulosic fibre offering Birla Viscose, Birla Modal, Birla Excel, Birla Spunshades and Birla Micro Viscose fibres as sub brands.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Birla Cellulose continuously conducts consumer research in main consuming markets of Europe, China, India, and Indonesia. Our research has shown that viscose is appreciated for its comfort and fluidity, being a fibre with a natural heritage. Led by the desire of leading global brands and retail, Birla Cellulose pioneered trends and forecast by working closely with design consultant, Mr. Sandy McLennan, East Central Studio London and lifestyle patterns of WGSN. The trend collection every season is consumer aligned and highlights the choice to have more of nature based fibres in the consumer's wardrobe. The Spring Summer 2016 Collection is presented at Première Vision Yarns, Paris. The over-arching theme of the SS16 collections is focused around nature, and in particular consumers' desire to care for nature and live a natural lifestyle. Birla Modal and Birla Textsmile

Question... What's the best way to make a small fortune in the stock market? Answer... Start off with a big one! 370

Spunshades which have immaculate sustainability and fashion credentials have been leveraged in individual collections namely 'Forager' & 'Discipline'. Both themes highlight the structural uniqueness and the tech interface of Birla Modal blended fabrics, uniquely with Cupromonium, viscose filament yarn, etc. It has a wide array of structures in dobby, weaves, jacquard in fine and medium counts, perfect for fashion. These structures add a design quotient hitherto not tried and leave a footprint on fashion with performance. The Forager collection is focused around the concept 'less is more,' helping meet the growing demand for sustainable living that values nature and is keen to nourish rather than harm it. Birla Modal - Amicor blended knit structures have antibacterial features which combines fluidity with functionality. Made with Amicor acrylic the product also is light weight, easy care and nice to feel. Also Birla Modal - Coolmax blended active wear has moisture management with comfort features for Women's wear and Men's wear. Birla Modal has a natural tendency to be cool in summer and warm in winter, having been made from choicest wood pulp. Birla Modal - Natural dyes collection brings in an additional layer of sustainability. Birla Spunshades value for knitted Tops and legging in a manifold range of seasonal colours coupled with a sustainability pitch by saving in water, chemicals, auxiliaries and energy has been the hallmark of this collection. 'Discipline' collection, inspired by the concept of 'the critical balance,' as consumers increasingly look to pursue the "right kind of luxury that is enjoyed responsibly and taken seriously. The collection features Birla Modal fibre with a double benefit, a sustainable attribute as a cellulosic fibre extended through the use of natural dyes and hand block printing techniques, meaning that there is minimal technology interface, and that the fabric is produced naturally. Birla Cellulose presented the Spring Summer 2016 at Première Vision Yarns, Paris from 10th - 12th Feb'15. January - February 2015

NEWS

"COLORJET to Show Latest Direct to Fabric Printer for Home Textiles 'Fabjet Grand' at GTE 2015" 'A perfect digital textile printing solution to transform home furnishing application possibilities and bringing more efficiency and profitability to businesses' Colorjet India Ltd, a leading manufacturer of digital inkjet textile printers will showcase the live demonstration of its latest grand format direct to fabric printer for customised home furnishing textiles - Fabjet Grand at GTE 2015 which starts from February 28, 2015 in NSIC Ground, Okhla, New Delhi in Hall E - stall no E5.

graphic image that they like or a specialty look that doesn't come from a stock wall covering.

The launch of the Fabjet Grand which is available in four models in different heads and colour options, signals the company's move towards capturing the market for customised digital textile printers across the globe.

The Fabjet Grand features a proprietary AIVC technology for consistent print performance by maintaining constant jetting conditions even in varying environmental conditions and offers excellent print life with vivid eye-catching long-life colours for unique and richly finished fabric.

Fabjet Grand is targeted at the customised home furnishing textile segment, particularly for producers of home décor products like curtains, bed covers and sofa covers which are directly printed on cotton and polyester based fabrics and uses environmental friendly aqueous based pigment inks.

Colorjet India Ltd Director, Pavan Gupta says, "End users are looking for a unique style in home interiors. They can use something they have designed, a photoJanuary - February 2015

The printer delivers high productivity, since it has two heads per colour in staggered position, which increases production and also has an extremely high practical printing speed enabling high daily printing volumes and outstanding run-ability for overnight printing without banding and colour deflection.

It has an automated feed and a take up system, synchronised with tension bars for long unattended print runs on various types of fabric. It operates via a pneumatics control-based tension-bar on media feed and take up, to ensure consistent tension on fabric and adjusts automatically based on the type of fabrics being used. The Fabjet Grand also has an automatic wiping system which wipes excess ink and dust from the print head surface. The Capping Station prevents inks from drying inside the print head when printer is not in use for long time and also protects the head from accumulating dust, which might cause damage to the print head It is equipped with advance colour management engine and colour processing tools, which ensures faster processing of files leading to saving time and increasing productivity and also has user-friendly and easy to use colour controls to manage colours. There are advanced dither patterns for photo-realistic output, fully customised printer settings for enhanced print results, smoother gradations and vibrant colours for superior print quality and inbuilt ICC profiles for various media and print modes. Colorjet is the only manufacturer that offers and sells 371

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

This machine is the perfect solution to print directly on various types of fabric for short run and customised designs printing for the home furnishing business and is also an excellent industrial solution for mass production of home furnishing textiles.

"The immediacy of digital printing is what's appealing for creating custom furniture or drapery pieces. Digitally printed fabrics are much more on-demand as setup time is shorter than screening and any changes can be made quickly," he adds.

NEWS machines as a solution, along with RIP colour management, ink usage, ICC profile and training for application development or various applications that a machine can be used for across different markets. True to its vision towards continued growth and development, the company constantly updates its product roadmap in an effort to directly connect with its end users while also valuing feedback given by its service engineers and sales team. Colorjet also has a highly trained technical team for after sales requirements. About Colorjet India Ltd: Founded in 2004, Colorjet India Ltd is the fastest growing wide format digital inkjet print technology company in the Indian sub-continent. The company is backed by a team with extensive experience and expertise in the inkjet printing segment and is guided by its commitment of delivering products that support a design philosophy of being economic, efficient and ecological.

The company operates through two manufacturing facilities located in India and China and sales offices spread across seven countries, which include China, Sri Lanka, UAE and India. To-date, Colorjet has installed and implemented 3,750 of its printing solutions and products across 315 cities around the world backed by a strong 278 member team, of which almost 100 are in technical related functions. SmarthBansal Brand Manager Colorjet India Ltd. Cell: +91 98102-39602 Email:smarth@colorjetgroup.com PR Contacts: ArunRao Taurus Communications Cell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938 Email:arun@taruruscomm.net

Hunt for the Most Fluid Designer At LIVA D'Designer 2014-2015 @ Surat Birla Cellulose recognizes young designers in the state Surat,31st January, 2015: LIVA presents D'Designer 2015- design talents hunt open to budding fashion designers from hub designers to young fashion students. D Designer is a unique initiative by Birla Cellulose - a division The Aditya Birla Group.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In its third year, this one of its kind talent hunt nurtures young fashion designers and provides them a platform to showcase their potential in a crucial market such as Gujarat. This year the event received overwhelming 2000 entries from across the state. These entries were shortlisted via various rounds where the participants were asked to create some unique and fluid creations using LIVA- a fabric made with natural fibres from the house of Aditya Birla Group. Only the best top 10 participants made it to the final round and displayed their dazzling collection made using LIVA.

Texttreasure Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts.. - Winston Churchill 372

The event kicked off with a press conference at Grand Bhagwati, Surat at 3pm rewarding the efforts of number of designer students who participated. Mr.Manohar Samuel, President, Marketing& Business Development , Birla Cellulose addressed the audience on how this event looks at encouraging young talents of fashion. The conference was graced by other eminent dignitaries from the fashion industry; ace designer Mr. Narendra Kumar Ahmed and Mr.Subhas Dhawan from F Studio. Addressing the audience, Mr.Manohar Samuel, President Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cellulose said "This year the event has received tremendous response. We had three objectives for this initiative,'' 1) Encourage design skills of budding designers in January - February 2015

NEWS

Gujarat to create future leaders in fashion Have these designers work with LIVA - a fluid fabric made with natural fibres to create innovative cuts & silhouettes for new age Indian consumer Appreciate Surat's leadership in women's wear category and progress alignment with brands & consumers, he added"

The gala occasion exhilarated the audience with dazzling display of various collections aimed to express fluidity innovatively The fashion-show witnessed the following LIVA Collections hit the ramp during the D'Designer finale: 1) Delhi Meets Vegas- Fusion wear made fluid with LIVA 2) Life is a beach - Relaxed resort wear with LIVA 3) Light& Shadow - Drama of black & white in interesting cuts 4) Red Affairs- Red dress made gracefully glamorous with LIVA 5) Gujarat Couture - Celebrating Gujarati spirit with LIVA Speaking on the occasion ace designer Mr.Narendra Kumar said "This initiative by Birla Cellulose is a great opportunity for our talented young designers to express their creativity and garner the experience they require before they leave to pursue their respective careers. The participants got the opportunity to work with LIVA - a fluid fabric made with natural fibres and created unique cuts and silhouettes." The jury panel felicitated the top 3 winners. D'Designer 2015 promised to be a grand event where the students sparkled and shined through various ensembles.

Liva Accredited Partner Forum - LAPF the elite body of supply chain partners, who offer Liva fabrics by leveraging innovation, great quality and fast service have welcomed the event to Surat. LAPF members in Surat have innovated in fabrics and F-Studio a prominent LAPF partner has showcased brilliant designs and trends to facilitate consumers and the designers with much needed supplies even in small quantities.

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.

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Alpenol

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Global Textile Congress

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INDIATEX 2016

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Business Excellence through Lean Manufacturing -- ITAMMA's Cluster Development Initiative 1st January, 2015 was indeed a new beginning for ITAMMA members at Ahmedabad. On this auspicious day, ITAMMA initiated the formation of ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum GroupII, by signing off the Tripartite Agreement along with National Productivity Council and AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI). Looking into the massive savings gained in the earlier ITAMMA Lean Cluster, (to the tune of approx. 9cr as mentioned by Mr. P. N. Solanki, Dy. Director, MSME), AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) was retained as Lean Consultants to recreate the LEAN magic in the new cluster. Mr. D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME addressing the gathering at the ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum

Mr. Kaizar Mahuwala, Hon. Treasurer, ITAMMA, shared the vision of ITAMMA for implementing 100 member organizations availing benefits under the Lean Manufacturing Competiveness Scheme.

Mr. D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME addressing the gathering at the ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum

AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) is the leading Lean Training and Consulting firm working across Asia Africa - Australia, having assisted more than 200 organizations till date in manufacturing and service sectors as well.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr.D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME, briefed the ITAMMA members about the prevailing MSME schemes which ITAMMA could avail for their benefits and laid stress on the combined facility formation.

Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA, mentioned that many textile engineering units have come forward and are having a good experience in terms of their improvement of their infrastructure setup, the systems and the product quality and handling through Lean Manufacturing Programmes. He further mentioned that a detailed survey of these units collecting the information on the benefits in the above areas should be published by MSME for encouraging the other Units of Textile Engineering Industry to go for such useful programmes where ITAMMA can take up this assignment if needed.

Mr. ShirishPaliwal, Director, NPC, Gandhinagar, spoke about the progress of cluster formations and also of the tremendous success of the APO meet held in December at Colombo, where he mentioned that Waterman Industries, the client of AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) was the only Lean practicing organization, who shared their Lean experiences and tremendous savings under the guidance of AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI). Mr. Prashant Gandhi, as a Nodal Officer, for these cluster development activities at Ahmedabad,was congratulated for this excellent initiative. 374

January - February 2015

NEWS The Tripartite Agreement was signed by Mr. NimishSanghvi (Forum II SPV Head), Mr. NileshArora Founder Director,AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) and Mr. ShirishPaliwal, Director, NPC, Gandhinagar.

Mr. NileshArora - Founder Director, Mr. ShirishPaliwal, Director, AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI)NPC, Gandhinagar, Signing the Tripartite Agreement signing the Tripartite Agreement

Mr. Chandrashekar, Director, MSME, congratulated all the SPV members, viz. Mr. NimishSanghvi of M/s. LaxmiShuttleless Looms Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Chandresh Shah of M/s. KrsnaEngimech Pvt. Ltd., Mr. PurvicPanchal of M/s. Shree Ram Textile, Mr. Alpesh and Mr. Vijay Panchal of M/s. Sonal Industries and Mr. PrakashPanchal of M/s. Somet Machinery (India).

Judgment affirmed in the second instance

A cessation of the patent infringement and a compensation for damages, were obtained against a yarn manufacturer from Quanzhou in the Chinese province Fujian, who had purchased the machines in question. The judgment of the first instance was upheld on appeal and resulted in a decommissioning of themachines. As a manufacturer of innovative leading textile machinery and equipment, Oerlikon Barmag feels very strongly about the effective protection of internally generated intellectual property. Peter Lau, Senior IPCounsel at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers, very much appreciates the fact that now, also Chinese authoritiesand Chinese courts, consequently sanction intellectual property right violations, and the jurisdiction inChina will, in the future be strengthened by specific Intellectual Property(IP) courts: "Inventive spiritneeds a protected space, in which it can unfold. This is the basis of innovative products andtechnologies. China is an important market for us which we want to furthermore supply with technologicallysophisticated

products comprising a large share of engineering as well as research and developmentactivities. In this respect, we welcome this development and will also in the future, not tolerate anyviolation of our property rights in China." Significantly more patent lawsuits pending in China The figures confirm that the more consequent, strong actions of the Chinese State with regard topropertyrights, is not just a subjective evaluation: According to the German newspaper Handelsblatt, several ten thousand cases per year are being negotiated in Chinese courts, with an upward trend. Not onlyforeign companies act as plaintiffs; Chinese companies are increasingly insisting on the protection of Intellectual property. Judgments are usually given against the infringer of the patent as well as againstthe buyer of the infringing product. For more details please contact, Susanne Beyer André Wissenberg Marketing & Corporate Communications Marketing & Corporate Communications Tel. +49 2191 67-1526 Tel. +49 2191 67-2331 Fax +49 2191 67-70 1526 Fax +49 2191 67-70 2331 susanne.beyer@oerlikon.com andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com

Connecting you with right audience for strengthening business promotion www.textileassociationindia.org January - February 2015

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In the legal dispute about two patent Infringements of Oerlikon Barmag Texturing Technologies by a Chinese competitor, the Higher People's Court of Fujian Province upheld Oerlikon Barmag's application.

NEWS

This May Interest You!! Rise of China & Investment in Africa

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Introduction China is Africa's largest new investor, and the value of its two-way trade - at almost $300 billion in 2013 - is second only to that of the United States (US). It now has a strong and growing influence in core extractive industries from Angola to Zambia, and continues to make inroads in Mr. Arvind Sinha many other states. As Chinese investment grows, however, so does concern about what implications this may have for Africa's political processes and for global strategic alignments. China is Africa's largest new investor, and the value of its two-way trade - at almost $300 billion in 2013 - is second only to that of the United States (US). It now has a strong and growing influence in core extractive industries from Angola to Zambia, and continues to make inroads in many other states. As Chinese investment grows, however, so does concern about what implications this may have for Africa's political processes and for global strategic alignments. "China's growing presence has been complicating prospects for further democratization in Africa," because it often ignores governance and human rights problems and makes investments that strengthen autocratic regimes. There is also concern among those who situate China's rise within the context of a 'new scramble for Africa' that is perceived as undermining its independence in ways even more sinister than what occurred in the past.These concerns are valid if one considers evidence from countries like Sudan and Angola, where China is perceived to have protected authoritarian regimes and has, in the case of Sudan, been implicated in the provision of arms to governments that commit human rights abuses in protracted conflicts. Chinese activities in Africa demonstrate the need for greater nuance in the way we assess China's impact on democracy. The new framework highlights the various categories in which countries with high levels of Chinese engagement fall. These categories include states with major reserves of strategic resources - such as oil, copper, uranium and so on - on the one hand, and those without these resources, on the other. There is also a category of countries in which China has mainly a conflict resolution or political interest. It also draws attention to the need to deconstruct China itself, by 376

challenging the myth of an all-powerful and omnipresent communist party structure. In this case, itpoints out the growing role of private individuals and companies in foreign investments coming into African countries from China. The section that follows attempts to situate this analysis within Sudan and uses the Sudanese example not only to show the limits of China's impact on democracy, but also the extent to which it appears to be responding tointernational pressures and criticisms. How (Not) to think about China's African Engagement The precise effects of Chinese engagement in Africa is "conditioned by the nature of China's interests, the modesof engagement with particular polities and the political systems operating in the country concerned". It providesa useful framework within which we can understand China's influence on political and governance processesin Africa, by identifying three categories in which China's activities can have specific impacts on democratization The first category are states currently undergoing democratic transitions, which lack strategic resources but which serveas useful markets and allies in geopolitical struggles. In these countries, China has not undermined democracy butrather has offered significant aid - supporting joint ventures, making technical grants and investing in infrastructureGhana, Tanzania and Zambia can be placed in this category. The second categories are states such as Angola, Sudan andNigeria, with significant strategic resources. Here, China's role often exacerbates the 'resource curse' and strengthensneo-patrimonial structures. In this regard, China is hardly a democratic influence. The third category are states such asLiberia that are emerging from conflict, where China makesimportant and helpful peacekeeping interventions.8 As theseinterventions are within the framework of the United Nations (UN), China's actions contribute to the reintroduction andgradual consolidation of democracy. Categorization is important because it disaggregates China's Africanengagements in a way that allows us to see how the specific conditions and nature of particular states can shapeoutcomes. It thus avoids the alltoo-familiar simplistic accounts of China as entrenching undemocratic regimes. While categorization privileges the conditions within the African states in which China operates, we cango even further to argue that the configuration of China's January - February 2015

investment decisions and actions also leave little spacefor any generalization about how it impacts on democratic processes. Accounts of China as simply being bad fordemocratization in Africa, for instance, often do not take into account the wide variation in Chinese investment andinfluence across the continent. While China is no doubt a central international player in Angola and Sudan, forexample, it is less so in many other African countries. In fact, as Cheeseman notes, "Between 2006 and 2008, 25 percent oftwo-way trade between China and Africa occurred with just one country - Angola.A further 18 percent was accountedfor by South Africa." This implies that Chinese investment is concentrated in relatively few countries and shouldthus not be construed as a continent-wide 'scramble'. It is important to note, however, that in small economies such asZambia, even small Chinese investments can significantly alter economic patterns, shape labour mobility and relationsand underpin economic recovery. In contexts like these, a relatively small investment can buy China huge influence. The perception of China as an influential anti-democratic force also assumes homogeneity to Chinese investmentdecision-making and planning that is largely not correct. Even though Chinese investments are no doubt headlined bylarge state-backed corporations, the growing role of private investors and entrepreneurs who often have direct contactwith local African people but do not necessarily take orders from Beijing is often ignored "The major state backed Chinese investors do not appear to have substantially integratedinto African business communities yet, in contrast to entrepreneurial networks such as those in Mauritius withmore embedded positions." "Some China specialists will seem somewhat surprised to discover that [China] is not a monolithic political structure with all power emanating from Beijing. While this doesnot necessarily challenge the perception of China as an undemocratic influence, it does strengthen the argument that Chinese influence can only be understood accurately if it is unpacked and analyzed within specific contexts.The lesson to be drawn from this is that China's ability to influence political processes varies significantly across thecontinent, with different countries offering different contexts and thus different ways of understanding China's role. Anycomplete analysis of China's impact on democratization in Africa would therefore be nuanced, and thus avoid broadgeneralizations that often merely reproduce Western fears about Chinese global geostrategic competition, rather thanthe realities of China's engagement January - February 2015

with the continent. As important as the above discussion is for how we can think about Chinese impact on democratization in Africa,perhaps the most significant indicator of whether China will, in the long run, make it less likely for Africa to democratize isto be found in the way Chinese authorities have responded to international criticism of its role in African states. Sudan, themost obvious example of China's support for authoritarian forces, shows that it is important to take note of significantchanges in Chinese African policy and to acknowledge the role that the growing complexity in China-Africa relationshas played in forcing China gradually to reconfigure its much-criticized 'non-intervention' policy. In short, China isextracting important lessons from its increasingly complexrelationship with Africa and appears to be taking steps -albeit tentative and sometimes even cynical - towards being a net promoter rather than an enemy of Africa's beleaguereddemocracy. It should be noted that Chinese influence in Sudan. The Sudanese oil industry had become the most importantarea of cooperation between both states, underpinning Chinese diplomatic protection and arms transfers. Asthe humanitarian crisis unfolded in Darfur, however, China faced growing international condemnation for itscontinued support for Sudanese president Omar al-Bashir's government and for ignoring mounting evidence that theSudanese government may be committing crimes against humanity. China countered this by arguing that international cooperation and peace can only be guaranteed by the principles of non-interference, mutual respect and mutual benefit. This logic was both self-serving for China and beneficial to Bashir's regime. In the case of China, it obviously yielded dividends in increased investments and access to the oil fields in Sudan to feed its voracious industrial expansion. It also allowed China to pursue its policy of limiting Western influence wherever it can, and promoting a multipolar vision of global politics that recognized China's own claim as a key pole. For the Bashir regime, it provided unprecedented revenue that largely insulated it from Western pressure and encouraged it to continue its defiance of global opinion. Even though the NIF regime never had any credible democratic credentials, it is easy to discern how the patterns of uncritical Chinese investments and diplomatic protection may have further deepened its resolve and capability toresist international pressure for democratization and for preventing human rights abuses in the country. Chinesesupport was condemned by Western 377

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association

NEWS governments and, by 2003; this started to show signs of straining China'srelationship with the rest of Africa. To put China's support for Bashir's authoritarian apparatus in perspective, one may look to data on Chinese arms sales and transfers to Africa. According to the 2007 Small Arms Survey, between 2002 and 2005, China was the largest supplier of military weapons and small arms to Sudan. In fact, by the 1990s, China had helped Sudan develop a domestic arms industry that has no doubt fuelled violence all over the region. Second to the US, China is the largest supplier of arms to Africa. In fact, a good percentage of its military exports are small arms, which are now infamous instruments for state repression and brutality. Of course, it may be argued that simply by providing African states with new investment options and thus undermining the leverage Western donors have to demand democratic reforms, China creates a new incentive for Africa's notoriously undemocratic governing elite to postpone or even truncate reforms. This argument is, however, not enough to dismiss China as an undemocratic influence in Africa. As the Sudanese example shows, China is capable of responding to international opinion and modifying its behavior as appropriate. Even though it will be farfetched to expect that China will, in the near future, advance neoliberal political reforms in the way the West does (China itself being a one-party state), it can and does play constructive roles in encouraging stability and governance reforms - even if these are heavily influenced by its own interests. This self-serving approach to reform is, however, not unique to China, as the West's relations with President YoweriMuseveni's Uganda clearly shows. What is thus critical to assessing China's 'democratic credentials' in Africa is to avoid simplistic generalisations and to acknowledge the dynamism of China's Africa policy - underpinned, as it were by the Chinese vision of its interests in a globalised world. Conclusion This article argues that Chinese impact on democratization in Africa is highly varied and context-specific. Using categorization, the specific internal conditions of African states predispose them to certain influences from China. Where the state is transitioning to democracy and enjoying relative stability, China often supports rather than disrupts democratic progress. States such as Ghana, Zambia and Tanzania fall into this category. Where the state possesses strategic resources, China often exacerbates the 'resource curse' and strengthens neopatrimonial structures and corruption. In these type of cases, China is usually a problem for 378

democratization. States such as Angola, Nigeria and Sudan are good examples here. Where states are in post-conflict stages - for instance, Liberia - China usually plays useful roles within multilateral peacekeeping frameworks. In this sense, it impacts positively on democratization, as it helps to consolidate peace and support electoral and other such institutional structures. Categorization is further underpinned by China's own internal dynamics and the way it conceptualizes its interests. China's investments and impacts are far more concentrated in a few countries in Africa than the discourse about a 'new Sinophere' suggests. Even where China has significant presence, the actors should be disaggregated to account for the growing relevance of private Chinese investors and embedded social networks, which operate outside the control of Beijing. These growing networks, if understood, could have significant implications for how we think about China's ability to direct its relations with African states centrally. While categorization is useful, in light of the more recent evolution of Chinese African policy, understanding its implications for democracy will require taking account of how China responds to feedback from the international community and what this may tell us about how it will interact with democratization on the continent in the near future. The most obvious example of China's anti-democratic impact on an African state is Sudan, which shows how China's problematic 'non-intervention' policy has gradually become muted. With the expansion of its economic engagements with Sudan, the profound political implications of Sino-Sudanese relations have become more obvious, and China has responded accordingly to this new complexity. As a state now driven by pragmatic rather than ideological considerations, China can be expected increasingly to support measures that will guarantee its investments, promote stability and enhance its global standing. If, in doing this, it continues to respond to international pressures about its relations with African governments, one may be cautiously optimistic about the net prospects of China as a player in African democratization. Sourced & Compiled by Mr. ArvindSinha- CEO, M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai Cell No. 9820062612, 8108612612 Email ID : arpsinha09@gmail.com / lionasinha@gmail.com

January - February 2015

NEWS

This May Interest You!! Innovation in Islamic Finance Financing Innovation Drives Growth New structures and issuers and greater standardization are pushing issuance in the global sukuk market.

subordinated sukukmurabahah is callable after five years, has a semiannual profit rate of 5.07%, and was issued under its 3 billion Malaysian ringgit subordinated sukukmurabahah program.

Sukuk issuance in 2014 is estimated at $130 billion, with outstanding issuance continuing to grow. The Mr. ArvindSinha sukuk market remains largely sovereign and quasi-sovereign issuers, but private-sector issuance is on the rise. There is a growing appeal of sukuk financing, with an increasing awareness among conventional investors of Islamic financing and rising appetite in non-Muslim countries, particularly for access to long-term financing.

Malaysia Building Society issued the world's first 3 billion ringgit ($844 million) structured covered sukuk commodity murabaha program with dual recourse structure and backed by financing receivables. Perpetual sukuk, pioneered by Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, are increasingly being issued by corporates. Saudi premium food group Almarai issued the first-ever Saudi riyal?based perpetual sukuk in late 2013.

Innovation is also driving issuance. Diversification in sukuk offerings is growing, providing new structures and benefits to investors and issuers-meeting market demand and specific financing needs. Sophisticated sukuk deals, including the use of hybrid structureswhich often involve the use of more than one Islamic contract-and the emergence of new alternative asset classes, point to the growing comfort of global investors in sukuk instruments. The implementation of Basel III has led to Islamic firms' issuing Basel III?compliant sukuk instruments to satisfy revised capital standards, according to Kuwait Finance House. Islamic banks in the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and Malaysia have issued such innovative sukuk instruments. Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank was the first to launch this type of issue in late 2012, and others have followed, including Dubai Islamic Bank's perpetual $1 billion Tier 1 sukuk in March 2013. Perpetual tenor debt has no maturity date, but generally is callable (can be repaid) on a specified date. The DIB deal had a profit rate of 6.25% and was 14 times oversubscribed. In early 2014, Malaysia's AmIslamic Bank was the first to use the shariah-compliant contract of murabaha (debt-backed) for structuring this type of sukuk. The bank's 200 million Malaysian ringgit ($56 million) Basel III-compliant Tier 2 January - February 2015

Last year saw a number of other firsts for the sukuk industry. The UK government, aiming to become a Western center for Islamic finance, became the first country outside the Islamic world to issue a sovereign sukuk. The £200 million ($302 million) issue was wellreceived by investors from the Middle East, Asia and the UK. The sukuk used the al-Ijara (asset-backed) structure-with rental payments on property providing the income for investors. Hong Kong also tapped the sukuk market in 2014selling $1 billion of sovereign sukuk in its first-ever issue of the securities. Other Asian countries that issued sovereign sukuk in 2014 included Malaysia, Indonesia and Pakistan. The Indonesian transaction represented an important innovation in the way that sovereigns can issue sukuk to fund public infrastructure development projects, notes UAE-based partner of White & Case, Shibeer Ahmed. In late 2014, South Africa launched its first sovereign sukuk, a $500 million issue. Part of its aim is to diversify its funding sources and tap into the wealth of the GCC. Morocco, Tunisia and Kenya are likely to issue sukuk going forward. Gambia has already issued a short term, local currency sukuk, as have Nigeria and Sudan, and Senegal raised more than $200 million in its first local currency Islamic bond in early 2014. In late 2014, Luxembourg issued a •200 379

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Sukuk financing is increasingly cross-border, as foreign issuers tap local and regional funds. This move is facilitating more intraregional flows, both in Gulf countries and in Asia, according to Siew Suet Ming, head of structured finance at Rating Agency Malaysia. The move can help to lower the cost of funding.

Corporates in Malaysia and the Middle East are increasingly using intangible assets in innovative sukuk structures. This includes airtime vouchers, broadband units and intellectual property. Banks in the Middle East are seeing increased interest from non-Islamic corporates for sukuk issuance, and it is an area that they want to grow.

NEWS million ($254 million) sukuk. There remains a strong pipeline of sukuk issuance, particularly on the sovereign side. Demand should remain solid in 2015, although the current weak oil price may delay issuance. Both the UK and Hong Kong sovereign issues have been important, according to many Gulf-based banks, as they have broadened the profile and recognition of sukuk. HARIAH-COMPLIANT? Ming, Rating Agency Malaysia (RAM): As foreign issuers tap local and regional funds, it is facilitating more intraregional flows. Although Islamic financing continues to expand, there remains debate about the shariah compliance of some Islamic financing products. Bai' al 'inah, where there is a transaction of buying and selling between the customer and the financial institution, is one such product. In Malaysia the shariah scholars allowed it despite the fact that they agree that the majority of scholars and Islamic financial institutions prohibit the transaction because of its resemblance to a loan. Shariah-compliant credit cards and mortgages have grown strongly over the past few years in the Middle East. Banks, including Dubai Islamic Bank (DIB), have seen Islamic credit card issuance increase significantly. International banks such as Standard Chartered offer a wide range of Islamic financing products. Each of the bank's shariah products is reviewed and approved by world-renowned shariah scholars.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Islamic banks, including Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, Emirates Islamic Bank, Noor Bank and Al Hilal Bank, are all keen to gain market share from conventional banks, particularly on the consumer banking side. Islamic banking has received a considerable boost, with shariah-compliant financial products and services beginning to find greater acceptance and recognition in the general market, according to Faisal Aqil, the deputy chief executive of consumer wealth management at Emirates Islamic Bank. Since public opinion varies on Islamic financing products, some observers have called for a global central religious authority to ensure IFIs comply with shariah on a uniform, global basis. This suggestion would be difficult to implement consistently, worldwide. Even in the case of internationally accepted financial standards, such as those promulgated by the Basel Committee, there is room for different interpretations. Nonetheless, the sukuk market is becoming more harmonized with common standards, which is a comfort to investors and issuers worried about the risks asso380

ciated with such products, and should spur further sukuk issuance. The increase in cross-border transactions should lead to greater convergence between sukuk markets and a more consistent approach to the shariah compliance of sukuk structures. REAL ESTATE FINANCING Real estate has been an important asset class for Islamic financing transactions. Islamic mortgages for house purchases are common, but more-sophisticated commercial transactions are becoming increasingly prevalent. Islamic finance has often used real estate as an investable, tangible asset class on which to base its financial structures. The focus has tended to be on prime assetsfor example, hotels or office buildings. However, over the past few years, Islamic banks have increasingly also provided mezzanine finance. In such structures, a conventional bank lends the majority of the debt on an interest payment basis, the investors inject their equity, and the mezzanine finance tranche is put into the structure in an Islamic-compliant way. In the UAE real estate sector, DIB has one of the largest market shares in commercial real estate financing and is supporting the industry by providing credit facilities to major local and international contracting and engineering companies. DIB plays a major role in supporting real estate developments. Its work includes acting for a consortium on the £400 million purchase and financing of the Battersea Power Station in London. Qatar's Barwa Bank recently led syndication for the financing of the Gold Line of the Doha Metro rail project. The financing was for 3.65 billion Qatari riyals (over $1 billion), and the facilities include guarantees and working capital financing. Another lead arranger on this deal was Qatar International Islamic Bank. Total Islamic finance assets were expected to reach $2.1 trillion at year-end 2014, with banking assets of $1.6 trillion. An annual growth rate of between 15% and 20% is likely to be maintained in the next few years, with growth being driven by an increasing range of products and financing techniques and wider acceptance of this type of funding. Sourced & Compiled by Mr. ArvindSinha - CEO M/s. Business Advisors Group Mumbai Cell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612 Email ID : arpsinha09@gmail.com / lionasinha@gmail.com January - February 2015

NEWS

Open House Event at BB Engineering VarioFil R+: World's first bottle-to-POY spinning line on display Remscheid, January 21, 2015 - more than 120 customers from all around the world followed BB Engineering GmbH's (BBE) invitation to join the unveiling of its new machine during an Open House Event at its facilities in Remscheid, Germany, on January 21, 2015. Visitors saw the world's first "VarioFil R+" bottle-toPOY line in operation, producing 150f48 dope-dyed black yarn.

VarioFil® R+ underlines the trend of increasing demand for textiles made from yarns which have a 'sustainablebackground'. It also provides the possibility for recycling companies to sell high-quality yarns instead of bottle flakes, therefore generating added value.

Downstream with OerlikonBarmag'seAFK texturing machine proves yarn quality

Bottle flakes instead of rPET chips: VarioFil R+ reduces spinning process for one step PET has become the primary material for beverage packaging, billions of PET bottles are used worldwide each year. This huge quantity of PET bottles, usually disposed as waste after initial use, is a perfect source of raw material for the sustainable production of synthetic fibers. Furthermore, the reutilization of resources and raw materials, along with energy saving production processes, are becoming increasingly popular. The VarioFil® R+ concept combines all these trends. It uses PET bottle flakes as a raw material, which avoids the additional pelletizing of bottle flakes into rPET chips. This leads to a significant advantage in terms of investment and energy costs. It also provides the latest technology for dope-dyeing, which is the most resourcesaving dyeing process. Hence, the development of January - February 2015

Further Open House attractions were the live presentation of the texturizing process, converting the manufactured rPOY into DTY on OerlikonBarmag'seAFK texturizing machine, as well as BBE's brand-new cleaning system for melt filters, known as White Filter Cleaning WFC. WFC allows the cleaning of melt filters, but also of other melt-contaminated parts without any chemical solvents and is a good complementary system for the VarioFil R+ line to clean its filtration equipment. A virtual tour through the new VarioFil® R+ line as well as an impressive insight into the winder assembly department of OerlikonBarmag, the origin of the famous WINGS POY winder, and several technical presentations covering the fields of recycling, yarn production from recycled feedstock and dope-dyeing all made the Open House an informative day for all participants.

Textsmile Attending a wedding for the first time, a little girl whispered to her mother, "why is the bride dressed in white?" "Because white is the color of happiness," her mother explained. "And today is the happiest day in her life." The child thought about this for a moment. "So why is the groom wearing black?" 381

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The new VarioFil R+ is the world's first POY spinning line which uses recycled bottle flakes as feedstock for dope-dyed textile POY. The line - developed by the subsidiary company of OerlikonBarmag - provides several technological features such as a special extrusion system for bottle flake materials, the latest metering and blending technology for dope-dyeing and an advanced 2-step melt filtration. The result is a high quality dope-dyed POY. The turnkey machine comprises 4 spinning positions, each equipped with an OerlikonBarmag 10-end WINGS® POY winder.

NEWS

More growth through perfect automation The Zinser 72 in a fully automated linked system UebachPalenberg, Germany - 16.01.2015 - The Indian textile industry is undergoing radical change. More and more companies are relying onhigh levels of automation in ring spinning mills and powerful high-speed machines to achieve stronggrowth rates. With the Zinser 72, Schlafhorst has developed a generation of machines tailor-madeprecisely for the Indian market. It is super long, super fast and ideal as a high-speed pace setter in afully automated linked system from the roving frame to the winding machine. Zinser 72: For a rapid return on investment In the ZinserRing 72 ring spinning machine, Schlafhorst offers spinning mills a highly productive and economicallyconvincing platform for further growth and greater profitability. The ZinserRing 72 with 1,920 spindlesis especially economical in production, contributing to revenue growth. The ZinserImpact 72 compactspinning machine is an impressive exponent of self-cleaning compact spinning technology.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Zinser 72

The high-quality processing of the Zinser 72 allows it to stay in production continuously around the clock withup to 25,000 rpm on all spinning positions. Shift for shift, the high delivery speeds of the Zinser 72 offer moreyarn than other ring spinning machines. Thanks to rings that can be centred, high-speed spindles and thehigh-speed spinning software, OptiStep, Zinser 72 machines produce perfect bobbins with more yarn. The Zinser 72 reveals its full strength in a fully automated linked system - as a pace setter between the rovingframes and automatic winding machines. Fitted as standard with CoWeMat, the most reliable doffer 382

inthe world, the Zinser 72 can be combined with all common roving frames and automatic winding machines ina fully automated linked system. The gold standard in automation is Schlafhorst's single-source completesolution: from the Zinser roving frame to the ZinserRing 72 or ZinserImpact 72 and Autoconer X5 Type V. Zinser 670 roving frame - individual automation for maximum quality The integrated automatic doffer and the RoWeLift automatic bobbin transfer station are the keys to increasedautomation and to bobbin handling without the need for manual intervention. The Zinser 670 roving frame isthe only machine of its type that also offers an integrated tube cleaner and tube storage. These automationunits also permit effective utilisation of the raw material. Contactless and accurate transportation of the sensitive roving bobbins protects yarn quality Every spinning mill makes different demands on an automated roving bobbin transport system. Schlafhorst'sCimTracksystem for creel automation offers the right solution for all situations. Highly individual, customized planning is possible, from the lowcost variant with manually operated trolley trains to a fully automatedsystem with CimTrack 3 or CimTrack 4. In spinning mills with a continuous production programme, the FixFlow system, a fixed link between one ormore roving frames and a group of ring spinning machines, makes sense. The full packages and emptytubes run in a continuous circuit between the machines. The FlexFlow system is used in flexible productionprogrammes with frequent lot changes. The flexible assignment of roving frames to ring spinning machinesfacilitates swift, easy adaptation to changes in production conditions.

Zinser 670 January - February 2015

NEWS Reduced labour costs and maximum efficiency with the ZinserCoWeMat Fast, reliable automatic bobbin changing on the Zinser 72 ring spinning machine by the CoWeMat makes itpossible to utilize the production capacity to optimum effect, as it performs the work arising at intervals withoutthe need for staff. Bottlenecks, waiting times and downtimes are non-existent compared with installationswith manual doffing, ensuring permanently high efficiency ratings for the ring spinning mill. Staffing costs canbe reduced by up to 50 %. ZinserCoWeMat 396 F and ZinserCoWeMat 396 V: automated doffing with full flexibility with the stand-alone solution, or maximum efficiency in a linked system The Zinser 72 series as a standalone machine with CoWeMat 396 F fits every space situation because it is spatially independent of the winding machine. It permits flexible production and saves on personnel in particularthanks to CoWeFeed's unique unsorted tube feeding.

i.e. for morekilograms of yarn each day. Schlafhorst supplies made-to-measure linked solutions that suit customer's plant organization perfectly. Whether as a direct link without a bobbin bridge or with bobbin bridge or alternatively also as an underfloorlink, the Autoconer machine concept satisfies every requirement. Every bobbin reaches the intended windingunit safely and completely intact. Most modern material flow technology, high cycle rates, an energy-saving transport system and energysavingprocess sequences are characteristics of the Autoconer. Security and reliability are guaranteed. As atreat and bonus, customers can keep an eye on the quality produced by their ring spinning machine continuouslyonline using the optionally available SPID system, to maintain quality at the highest level. As an automationsolution with its intelligent material flow system FlowShare FX and the proven, stable Caddy transportsystem, the Autoconer X5 is the benchmark in automation.

The Zinser 72 series linked machine with CoWeMat 396 V can be combined with every commercially availablewinding machine and reduces labour and space requirements to a minimum. The linked solution guaranteesminimum logistics costs and maximum quality assurance - maximum efficiency in constant productionand for large lots.

Autoconer X5, Type V - the completion for fully automated ring spinning The Autoconer Type V - the direct link between the ring spinning machine and the package winder alreadysaves around 30 - 40 % on staff costs (compared with RM) in practice, and this trend is rising. But apartfrom economic efficiency, automation offers another convincing argument - quality: the linked system raisesthe yarn and package quality to the absolutely highest level. The production capacities of the spinning andwinding machine are coordinated to one another in the optimum manner for greater efficiency, January - February 2015

Autoconer X5

A special advantage of the Autoconer, type V is its energy-saving mode to utilize further energy-saving potential.If the Autoconer has wound all its bobbins and the ring spinning machine is still engaged in productionof the new take-up, the winding machine can switch to energy saving mode for reduction in the powertake-up of the suction system. Everything is then reactivated in good time for the transfer of the new bobbins. The monitoring tasks of the operators are clearly organised and characterised by short distances. The Informatoris located directly on the machining center, so the operator is only a couple of steps away from theoperating terminal of the ring spinning machine and 383

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ZinserBobbinTray - for highest productivity The ZinserBobbinTray system transports bobbins and empty tubes without contact, thus ensuring highZinser yarn quality. Tray moving mechanisms that are susceptible to malfunctioning are not used. The individuallyguided, round BobbinTrays and the conveyor belt ensure precise positioning during doffing and aneven, rapid and reliable material flow between the ring spinning and winding machines.

NEWS can quickly survey the production sequences and dataof both machines. Unique Plant Control System for spinning and winding data analysis at a glance Collecting data, speeding up information flow, using staff and machines better - with the Schlafhorst PlantControl System the customers systematically increase the quality and economic efficiency of their spinningmill. Variable connection options for individual machines, plants and combinations make it easy to get anoverview about all the production and quality data. Data access is possible at any time and from any PC -from any of your operating sites' machines networked anywhere in the world. Absolutely unique in the ringspinning world is the possibility to connect Zinser roving frames, Zinser ring spinning machines and Autoconerwinding machines to one data management system, to Plant Control System. With this system youhave not only a completely automatic spinning mill from roving to winding; you also have access to all theproduction and quality data from this complete solution at a glance. This can't offer any other supplier in theworld. The right machine at the right time The SchlafhorstZinser 72 is the right machine at the

right time, because India is currently experiencing signsof growth and automation. The forward-looking Indian Government is promoting the automation of the textileindustry and the establishment of state-of-theart, textile industrial parks. Under these circumstances, theZinser 72 is the optimal investment decision. It is highly productive, absolutely reliable and guarantees thehigh quality currently in demand by today's textile markets. With tailor-made automation solutions based onthe Zinser 72, the Schlafhorst engineers are implementing highly productive ring spinning and compact spinningmachines for their Indian customers, which will generate strong growth and ensure maximum profits. Media contacts Birgit Jansen Expert Communication Zinser Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG Carlstr. 60 52531 Übach-Palenberg Germany T + 49 2451 905 2875 birgit.jansen@saurer.com www.saurer.com

Australia to host 13th Asian Textile Conference Australia's Deakin University and Technical Textiles and Non Wovens Association will host the 13th Asian Textile Conference(ATC-13)on behalf of the Federation of Asian Professional Textile Associations (FAPTA).

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Asian Textile Conference (ATC) is one of the world-leading conferences in the textile field and takes place biannually at Asian countries in turn. ATC-13 will be held from 3 to 6 November 2015 in the Australian coastal city of Geelong, Victoria. The Call for Papers for this conference is now open. Researchers from academia and industry are invited to submit abstracts on papers and / or posters through the conference website www.atc-13.org. "It is an honour for Australia to host this important conference for the advancement of fibres and textiles in the many fields of use today and applications to meet future needs of society," says Professor Xungai Wang, Director of the Australian Future Fibres Research and Innovation Centre (AFFRIC) and Institute 384

for Frontier Materials (IFM) at Deakin University, and Academic Chair of the conference organising committee. "ATC-13 will provide global scientists and researchers in all textile fields with the platform to share new knowledge, set directions and goals for the progress of textile science and engineering for the next decade," says Professor Wang. TTNA Executive Manager, MsKerryn Caulfield said: "Textiles play vital roles in industry and every aspect of people's daily lives. Whether derived from natural or man-made fibres, interdisciplinary collaboration is the key solution for the development of innovative high performance textiles and the future growth of the industry." The Call for Papers is scheduled to close on 15 April 2015. For further information and to register for updates on the conference please visit thewebsite www.atc-13.org January - February 2015

NEWS

TAI Delegations meeting with Minister of Industry, Government of Thailand TAI Delegations meeting with Minister of Industry, Government of Thailand in Bangkok on 22nd January 2015 in his office Delegation of The Textile Association (India) lead by National President ArvindSinha, met H.E. ChakramonPhasukavanich, Minister of Industry, Government of Kingdom of Thailand and invited him to inaugurate Global Textile Congress 2015 on 13th, 14th & 15th February, 2015. Hon'ble Minister has very kindly agreed to inaugurate the conference on 13th of February at 10 A.M at Hotel Ambassador Bangkok. Arvind Sinha, President the Textile Association (India), sincerely thanked H.E. Chakramon Phasukavanich, Minister of Industry for his gesture.

Obituary

Professor Durgam V. Muniswamy Professor Durgam V Muniswamy, former Principal of GSKSJT Institute, an expert in fabric structure, passed away at the age of 87 years on 05th February, 2015 at Bangalore. Prof. Muniswamy was the President of the Textile Association (India) - Karnataka Unit for 11 years from 1997 to 2008. He was also very active in the activities of Institution of Engineers and was initiative in starting the Bapuji Institute of Engineering and Technology (BIET) at Davanagere and established Textile Division. Prof. Muniswamy was also visiting professor for Bangalore University, Department of Apparel Technology and Management. He was honoured with "Kempegowda Award" at January - February 2015

his age of 83 by Bruhat Bangalore Mahanagara Palika in April 2011. He had his post-graduation at Leeds University and developed number of formulas and equations for fabric geometry. He underwent training at Japan for Fishing Nets. He has written number of books and articles on fabric construction such as Hand book of Cotton Fabrics, Rayon Fabrics, Know your Fabrics and Classification of Fabrics -A New Approach, Vasana, Vol. 1, 2006, The need for Classification of Fabrics, Fibres2fashion, A Fresh approach to Fabric Quality Assessment, Fibre2Fashion. InHandbook of Cotton FabricsVol. I book,he has listed 2629 varieties of fabrics and discussed their constructions and properties. Prof. Muniswamy has developed a method for classifying the fabrics as "VERY GOOD", "GOOD", "AVERAGE" and "BELOW AVERAGE" quality Fabrics and developed software which is available in CD form. This achievement was done when he was 80 years. He has guided number of post graduate students in their project works. He was very regular in taking classes, even up to the age of 82 years. The Textile Association (India) offers with deep heartfelt condolence to the departed soul and prayalmighty to bestow eternal peace to the departed souls. 385

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From L to R: Mr. N.K. Maheshwari, President, Indo Thai Synthetics Co. Ltd., Ms. K. Mayuree, President, Fibre Manufacture Association, Thailand, Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, The Textile Association (India), H. E. Chakramon Phasukavanich, Minister of Industry, Government of Thailand, Officials from Ministry of Industry, Thailand, Mr. R. K. Vij, Conference Chairman, The Textile Association (India), Mr. Anil Purohit, Indo Thai Synthetics, Thailand, Mr. Somsak Srisuponvanit, Executive Director, The National Federation of Thai Textile Industries, Thailand

NEWS

Conference on 'PHD Manufacturing Signature Series 2015- Zed Effect' PHD Chamber organized a Conference on 'PHD manufacturing Signature Series 2015- Zed Effect' on 19th February 2015 at PHD House, New Delhi which was inaugurated by Shri Narendra Singh Tomar, Hon'ble Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. of India.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Alok B Shriram, Senior Vice President, PHD Chamber while welcoming Shri Narendra Singh Tomar Highlighted that India's manufacturing sector could reach USD 1 trillion by 2025. This could be achieved on the back of the continually growing demand in the country and the inclination of multinational corporations to establish low-cost plants in India. Up to 90 million domestic jobs could be created by 2025, with the manufacturing sector contributing to about 25-30 per cent of India's gross domestic product (GDP).

L to R: Mr. Vivek Seigell, Senior Secretary, PHD Chamber; Mr. D.P. Deshpande, Managing Director, Tata Sponge Iron Limited; Mr. Alok B. Shriram, President, PHD Chamber; Shri Narendra Singh Tomar, Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. of India; Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Mr. Saurabh Sanyal, Secretary General, PHD Chamber

According to World Bank estimates, simply halving the delays due to road blocks, tolls and other stoppages could cut freight times by some 20-30 percent and logistics costs by an even higher 30-40 percent. This alone can go a long way in boosting the competitiveness of India's key manufacturing sectors by 3 to 4 percent of net sales, thereby helping India return to a high growth trajectory and enabling large scale job creation, he added. 386

L to R: Mr. Vivek Seigell, Senior Secretary, PHD Chamber; Mr. Easwaran Subramanian, Senior Director - Consulting, Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu India Private Limited ; Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Mr. D. P. Deshpande, Managing Director, Tata Sponge Iron Limited; Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Partner, Nomura Research Institute India (NRI)

He emphasized that steel is the core sector for development of any economy. Hoping to benefit from the 'Make in India' programme, all steel producers would look to expand their capacity to about 100 - 110 million tonnes per annum. Currently the total output stood at above 83.2 million tonnes in the year 2014, cementing India's position as the fourth-largest steel producer for fifth year now in a row. The sector is also looking to benefit from the fall in iron ore prices to five-year low levels, as also from the declining coking coal prices. Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber while felicitating the Chief Guest and participants said Studies conducted on the manufacturing industry have concluded that India has a working population of 75%. Out of this, only 600 million have acquired education till middle school. Due to this reason, the manufacturing industry in India, which is labor intensive, can provide the requisite number of employment units in the country. Studies have indicated that the productivity of the manufacturing industry in India is approximately 1/5th of the productivity in the manufacturing industry of United States of America. It is about ½ as compared to the productivity levels in South Korea as well as Taiwan. January - February 2015

NEWS Sources estimates that the higher input costs for the Indian manufacturing sector as a result of cascading effect of indirect taxes on selling prices of commodities, higher cost of utilities like power, railway transport, water, higher cost of finance and high transactions costs puts the sector at a severe disadvantage as compared to its Asian counterparts, he added. Mr. Naveen Jindal, Chairman, Jindal Steel and Power Ltd demanded transparent policies from the government for all sectors including Steel, Coal and Mines so that no ambiguity prevails and business is conducted with ease and fairly. Mr. Jindal said that the scarcity of Non Cooking coal and Iron ore is the major concern for the steel sector. India has more than 200 coal blocks but only 30 coal blocks has been started so far. At the time of independence, India and China were producing the same volume of steel whereas now China is producing 822 MT and India could be able to touch at appx.85 MT. Government should take imperative steps to encourage manufacturing like expansion of ports, Railway Network etc., he added. Shri Narendra Singh Tomar, Hon'ble Union Minister of Steel and Mines said that the Ministry of Steel is making necessary provisioning in the law to involve private sector participation in exploration of mines and minerals and also empowering those to compensate the cost involved in exploration.

auction process even though it has been seeking to invest in India in its mines and minerals segment for over a decade. By the month of May 2015, the ministry of steel and mines will finalize the new auction rules and regulations for future as for which the mines and minerals resources be awarded and the new rules and regulations finalized by the centre be referred to states such as Odisha, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand. He also apprised participants about the initiative taken by the government to strengthen the steel sector by increasing the production of iron ore and also restrict unwarranted imports to save the interest of domestic manufacturers. Mr D P Deshpande, Managing Director, Tata Sponge Iron Ltd said that large unorganized sector serves the steel manufacturing industry and the manufacturers must owe the responsibility to organize them, to enable them to produce good quality products and become competitive like Tata follows the model of TQM (Total Quality Management).

L to R: Mr. Naveen Jindal, Chairman, Jindal Steel and Power Ltd being presented a memento from Mr. Alok B. Shriram, President, PHD Chamber

He said that the auctioning would be only channel available for obtaining mines and minerals reserves in all categories including captive mines and merchant mines and even a foreign entity such as POSCO would have to be awarded mining and mineral blocks through January - February 2015

Recent falling IIP figures in manufacturing are a curse for economy. The steel demand is low in the recent past which in turn is creating pressure on steel domestic prices. According to a McKinsey report, lack of facilities in Infrastructure and Logistics amounts to INR 45 billion which is equal to 4.3% of India's GDP. India has an advantage of demographic dividend wherein it is easy to find employees for different jobs. India must produce good quality products to enable growth in exports and to reduce the trade deficit. 387

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R: Mr. Alok B. Shriram, President, PHD Chamber presenting a memento to Shri Narendra Singh Tomar, Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. of India

NEWS Mr. Easwaran Subramanian, Senior Director - Consulting, Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu India Private Limited said it was the need of hour that private industry players need to invest in Research and development to encourage the innovation and new technologies which will lead to zero effect and zero defect. India has to focus on increasing its productivity which increased by .4% in comparison to last year whereas China is

more than doubled its productivity. Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Partner, Nomura Research Institute India (NRI) said that despite tough conditions to do business in India, Automotive industry has marked India's position in the world. Today, India is the largest tractor producer, 2nd largest two wheeler producers and 3rd largest Truck and Bus producer in the world.

R 60 - Higher Productivity and Flexibility on 600 spinning positions The new R 60 automated rotor spinning machine offers the accumulated productivity of up to 600 rotors. The high yarn quality achieved with the S?60 spinning box and the excellent package build ensure maximum efficiency in downstream processes. The energy-saving technology of the R 60 has enabled Rieter to introduce a further extension in machine length. The first machines with 600 spinning positions are already operating successfully in a number of spinning mills worldwide. Customers appreciate the reliability and economy of these machines.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The longest rotor spinning machine

Yarns of high quality and tenacity The yarn quality achieved on the R 60 with the S 60 spinning box stands out in all comparisons by virtue of its higher tenacity and regularity, as well as having fewer imperfections. This is achieved by the innovative spinning geometry and the resulting improvement in spinning stability. These advantages are exploited even more economically on the long machine. Minimal energy consumption The R 60 requires some 10?% less energy than other rotor spinning machines. The energy consumption of rotor spinning machines depends mainly on the optimal structure of the volumetric flow of the spinning air and losses in the power electronics. Central drives therefore still have advantages over individual drives with large numbers of decentralized electronic components. On-going comparative measurements by cus388

tomers prove the R 60's advantage of 10 % lower energy consumption. Ideal flexibility The option of independent machine sides enables the R 60 to be operated virtually as flexibly as two machines. New safety devices even make it possible to perform maintenance and cleaning work on the spinning positions and head and foot stock on one side in one shift, while production continues on the other side. Maintenance on the other side of the machine can then be scheduled for another shift without additional interruptions to production being necessary as a result. Good for coarse-count yarns and frequentquality cuts The option of six robots also enables production to be performed in extreme applications (short package running times, very coarse yarns, high ends down frequencies) with maximum efficiency on a machine with 600 spinning positions. The high-speed automation of the R 60 manages piecing and doffing in 20 seconds. Each time thorough rotor cleaning ensures that the spinning position can subsequently continue spinning with the highest possible yarn quality. In extreme applications of this kind the double capacity and performance of the tube loader is especially useful, combined with the "independent machine sides" function. Author: Stephan Weidner-Bohnenberger Head Product Management Rotor Spinning stephan.weidner-bohnenberger@rieter.com

January - February 2015

NEWS

Uzbek Minister on visit at Textile Machinery Association Fritz P. Mayer, Vice-Chairman of VDMA Textile Machinery Association and Ilkhoom Khaydarov, Uzbek Minister and Chairman of the board of the State JointStock Company for the Light Industry "O'zbekyengilsanoat" have signed in Frankfurt a memorandum of understanding to strengthen the ties between the two organizations. During the consultations Khaydarov, being on a visit to Germany with a highranking Uzbek government delegation, has given a detailed overview of present and future projects of the Uzbek textile industry.

dustry is one of the key areas of the investment activities. More than before, when the focus was on export of cotton the investments of today aim at the manufacture of cotton yarns and fabrics as well as on finished goods. In 2014, German exports of textile machinery to Uzbekistan summed up to roundabout 8 million Euros.

Signature for closer co-operation: Fritz P. Mayer and the Uzbek Minister IlkhoomKhaydarov

Save the date: Press reception of VDMA Textile Machinery Association on the occasion of Techtextil: 6th May 2015, 6:30 PM, Marriott Hotel, Frankfurt.

With an annual output of more than one million tons, Uzbekistan is one of the biggest cotton producers of the world. During the last years the Central Asian Republic undertook major efforts to increase added value in its own country. The textile and apparel in-

Fritz P. Mayer stated. "With their products and performance, numerous member companies of VDMA Textile Machinery Association participate actively in the modernization of the Uzbek textile industry. The VDMA member companies are not only estimated at site as world champions in quality, innovation and sustainability, but also as reliable business partners. In this context Mayer also reminded of the "German Textile Technology Symposium Central Asia", which had been initiated by VDMA in 2009. "Being visible in Uzbekistan in the midst of the crisis year 2009 was very well received and signalized to the Uzbek textile industry that we are interested in long-term co-operations", added Mayer.

For more details contact: Mr Nicolai Strauch Phone +49 69 66 03 13 66, E-Mail: Nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

Journal of the Textile Associsation MOST IMPORTANT

www.textileassociationindia.org/jta. Further, we would like to rationalize the print copies (Hard Copy) for the benefit of the members and to improve the quality of JTA. In view of that, will you still need the hard copy of JTA or not? Please let us know within 15 days, so that we can rationalize and reorganize the JTA. Needless to mention, if we do not get your reply within 15 days, it will be presumed that you do not require the hard copy of JTA. All Units are requested to let us know how many hard copies of JTA they will require. It is requested for best co-operation and quick response. January - February 2015

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We are pleased to inform you that Journal of the Textile Association (JTA) is now available in digital format on TAI website

NEWS

Massive response received to 12th International & 70th All India Textile Conference The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha unit has hosted 12th International & 70thAll India Textile Conference again after its enormous success in 1979 & 2006 on 17th& 18thJanuary 2015 at Dr. Vasantrao Deshpande Auditorium, Nagpur. The theme of the conference was "Cotton, Textile & Apparel Value & Supply Chain : Global Opportunities & Challenges", covering whole gamut of textile & clothing industry. At the inaugural function Arvind Sinha, National President, D. R. Mehta, Past President, K. D. Sanghvi, Vice President, V. D. Zope, Chairman, Haresh Parekh, Hon. Gen. Secretary of TAI, Dr. C. D. Mayee, Chairman of Agricultural Scientists Recruitment Board of Indian Council of Agricultural Research, Datta Meghe, Ex-MP, Girishji Gandhi, Trustee, Vanrai, Ajay Pathak of Nationalist Congress, HemantSonare, Secretary of TAI and Conference Chairman were on the dais.

Mr. HemantSonare presenting his speech

Also he mentioned that conference objective foreseen a desired development at every stage from fibre to fashion & will successfully translate the thought process into action to achieve much required value added growth for the development of Vidarbha. He showed confidence that the outcome of the conference will certainly boost confidence of existing & budding entrepreneurs to act as change agents and develop integrated framework to make Vidarbha as a future Textile and Garment Hub of the country. Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President TAI & Past President Mr. D. R. Mehta spoke on this occasion. Then Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, a dynamic personality, wide experienced and an enthusiastic man presented his Presidential Address.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dignitaries lighting the light at inaugural function

Mr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman & Hon. Secretary of TAI Vidarbha Unit said at inaugural function that "in order to boost confidence of cotton growers and local industries to envisage Vidarbha as a future textile and garment hub in the country, farmers and entrepreneur need to bring in value added products to sustain development thereby generating employment".

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He briefed about the TAI activities, current industry scenario, and global economy. He also touched to the Indian fast emerging market, global economic crisis. Also he expressed his personal opinion about conventional industry and consolidated efforts to take by various associations and Ministry. Mr. D. R. Mehta, Past President also highlighted on emerging trend of textile Industry and the future activities of the association/

Texttreasure Always be yourself, express yourself, have faith in yourself, do not go out and look for a successful personality and duplicate it. - Bruce Lee January - February 2015

NEWS The Textile Association (India) conferred Honorary F. T. A (Fellow the Textile Association) to Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General of the Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA), eminent scientist for his outstanding contribution made in the field of Textile Research & Development.

Mr. Arvind Sinha delivering his Presidential address

Mr. R. K. Vij, receiving the F. T. A. Award on behalf of Dr. Arindam Basu by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

In order to recognize and appreciate the meritorious services and special outstanding contribution for the Textile Association (India) and its Unit, the TAI awarded Service Gold Medal to Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Hon. Gen. Secretary, TAI.

Mr. D. R. Mehta delivering his speech Then the award presentation & felicitation was done to some eminent people to acclaim their outstanding contribution, service and achievements in the course of their profession. The awards of excellence were given to people who truly deserve by hands of Chief Guest Shri Nitinji Gadkari.

Mr. Vasantrao Bhongade receiving the Hon. Membership Award by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari January - February 2015

The spirit of encouragement prevails at Unit levelService Memento was awarded to inspire and motivate the members to contribute their selfless services at Unit level. The first award instituted by late Shri J. J. Randeri was awarded to Shri R. R. Agarwal, TAI Ahmedabad Unit.

Shri R. R. Agarwal receiving the Service Memento by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari 391

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) conferred prestigious Honorary Membership to Progressive farmer Mr. Vasantrao Bhongade during this occasion for his tremendous achievement in cotton growing field.

Shri Haresh B. Parekh receiving the Service Gold Award by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

NEWS The Second Service Memento award instituted by late Shri H. A. Shah was awarded to Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit.

Shri A.V. Mantri receiving the Service Memento by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

Best Unit trophies are floated with an idea to provide an incentive to the active Unit and to encourage others to be more and more active, contributing to the consolidation of The Textile Associations (India) as a whole. TAI Delhi Unit from the group of larger Units was awarded Best Unit Trophy. Hon. Shri. Nitinji Gadkari, Cabinet Minister, Road Transport and Highways, Shipping, Govt. of India was one of the guiding force behind this conference. Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India has taken major initiatives for developing Butibori, Nagpur as Textile zone and Apparel Park.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Government of Maharashtra through its new policy has given priority to growth of textile & clothing industry. Industry friendly Government policies like TUFS, Scheme for integrated textile park (SITP) and formulation of the National Fiber policy have given further boost to investment in textiles.

Transport and Highways. He said that the people needed to change their mind set and think of ways to develop cotton industry in Vidarbha. Farmers needed to fight poverty and unemployment by using new technology. They could start by setting up ginning and pressing units in villages. With the use of technology value addition to cotton products could generate demand and increase income of farmers. Also, adopting new techniques of farming the yield per acer and quality of cotton could be increased, he added. Similarly, the Government was looking at the feasibility of using barrage, inland water ways or rivers to transport cotton bales to ocean ports like Chennai. This would save the cost of transportation. For this, a list of rivers had been compiled, he noted. R. K. Dubey, President of TAI, Vidarbha proposed vote of thanks of the inaugural function.

Hon'ble Subhashji Desai delivering his speech

At the valedictory function of a two-day seminar organized by the Textile Association India(TAI). Maharashtra State Industry Minister Subhashji Desai said the Government will, in a couple of days, issue a list of 25 permits required to start an industry, and the 52 that have been done away with. He said, this comes in backdrop of Fadnavis' visit to Davos to attend the World Economic Forum (WEF) meet. The chief minister has already asked government departments to simplify procedures. Desai said the state will also announce a new textile policy, which shall have major focus on developing the sector in Vidarbha. He said the government has also got proposals for a cumulative industrial investment of 6,000 crore from 16 companies. The list is already out, and now a new list, which takes the total proposed investment to over 10,000 crore, will be released soon.

Hon'ble Nitinji Gadkari delivering his inaugural speech

"Cotton can play an important role to develop Vidarbha," said Nitin Gadkari, Union Minister of Road 392

January - February 2015

NEWS

Additional Chief Secretary - Textiles Shri. Sunil Porwal said that through this conference we will create positive environment to attract industrial growth in all sectors of textile value addition by using effective supply chain management to cater the business needs of all the sectors from fibre to fashion in Vidarbha. He said this conference will boost confidence of local entrepreneurs by capitalizing and utilizing available regional resources by working hand in hand with Government with mutual collaboration for the prosperity of the region and to attract positive skyrocketing growth & investments in Vidarbha from industry leaders from all across the world. President TAI - Arvind Sinha said that In India, stakeholders in textile business says the industry is feeling the heat of falling crude prices. Though it may have been beneficial for the domestic economy, it has led to an adverse impact on the textile industry He said, the fall in crude prices has hampered the economy in countries like Russia and Venezuela, which make major export market for Indian apparel Industry. The middleeast countries are also in a cautious mode, with the demand already low in the US, said Sinha. There has been a close to 30%slide in the price are at an all-time low. The next quarter release of garments may see a cheaper range being launched. As against $50 shirts, the price range may be set around $20. He said there has been no cut in capacity utilization as reducing or shutting down operations can mean more losses. But, the recession can be taken as an opportunity to come up with innovations," There is firing of ambitions in terms of globalization; there is quantum change in scale of ambitions of India's business leaders and entrepreneurs. They started innovating on business model, delivery, product, process, technology, customer service and logistics. Innovations, Research & Development have touches every sector of Textile & Clothing industry. January - February 2015

Vice President K. D. Sanghavi proposed Vote of Thanks of Valedictory function.

Contact us to know more about JTA Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 Mobile: +91-22-9819801922 E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, 393

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri Sunil Porwal Delivering his valedictory speech

Past president D. R. Mehta said The Indian textile industry is extremely varied with the hand spun and hand woven sector at one end of the spectrum and the capital intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other. The potential growth of Indian textile and clothing industry lies in an effective vertical integrated value chain structure .Textile supply chain is very diverse in terms of the raw material used, technologies deployed and product produced. There is sustainable value addition at each stage of processing from raw material to delivery of finished product, contributing much at every stage. The industry is highly brand driven as well as acutely segmented and extremely competitive. Industry growth is dependent on driven operations like branding, marketing communications, strategic planning, human resource management and further logistical management. Almost 1100 delegates from all across India participated in this conference. Forward and backward integration is the key for success to address farmer's distress of this region. This conference will provide an excellent opportunity for companies to gain global visibility and publicity by promotion of products and services to a highly focused audience and networking with the participants from various parts of the world.

NEWS

GTC successfully organized with overwhelming delegate response The Textile Association (India) with the support of Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) organized Global Textile Congress at Bangkok on 13th to 15th February, 2015 to develop lasting business relations between countries producing textile fibres, fabrics, machineries and carrying out extensive research in all related areas. The theme of Congress "Global Textile - Opportunities and Challenges in an Integrated World" was very meticulously selected to garner knowledge and expertise of galaxy of eminent speakers of world fame. This international event was conceived two years ago and tremendous efforts were made to achieve success.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) clocked a key milestone in its history with the organization of the first ever Global Textile Conference (GTC) in Bangkok. The 3-day GTC has successfully organized with an overwhelming delegate response from not only from India but also from other Asian nations, including Thailand.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President delivering his welcome speech

All the possible detailing was done in a very systematic manner, selection of speakers, papers in ten sessions addressing various issues of Textile Industry. Two panel discussions widely attended and deliberations by almost 30 Research Scholars and Faculty members made the conference big knowledge pool. Various others important issues such as Foreign Exchange, Con394

tract Management, HRD Matters, Supply Chain, Shipping were also discussed by very capable speakers. The Global Textile Congress was attended by more than 600 delegates from 18 countries during which more than 60 papers were presented. This international conference has addressed important issues related to Textile Industry in Middle East, West Africa, Far East region including China, Indonesia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong including India. Global Textile Congress assumed tremendous distinction for providing a springboard to the textile industry in India to reach out to other nations with recognition. It was indeed heartening to find that both, the Chief Guest and the Guest of Honour, were highly appreciative of this great initiative by the Textile Association (India) and offered their fullest support for the furtherance of the objectives of the Global Textile Congress. They strongly felt and hoped that this International conference would definitely create a positive and congenial global environment which would eventually pave the way for new Global Projects and assignments engaging the technocrats, experts, businessmen, traders and officers from all these 18 countries and would attain high standard of networking between these nations. Realizing this fact, His Excellency Minister of H. E. Chakramon Phasukavanich, Government of Kingdom of Thailand consented to be the Chief Guest for the inaugural session along with H. E. Harsh Vardhan Sringla, Honorable Ambassador of India to Thailand as Guest of Honour. Also Mrs. Mamta Verma, Industries Commissioner, Office of the Industries Commisionerate, Govt. of Gujarat, Mr. Somsak Srisuponvanit, Executive Director, The National Federation of Thailand Textile Industries, Mrs. Mayuree Didpakdeechol, Director of Thailand Institute and Chairman of Thai Man-made Fibre Industry Association, Thailandand other leading dignitaries joined the inaugural function. On this occasion Arvin Sinha, National President Textile Association (India), R.K. Vij, Conference Chairman Textile Association (India) and D.R. Mehta, President Emeritus, TAI elaborated the theme of the Global Textile Congress and outlined the magnificence of the January - February 2015

NEWS scope of mutual cooperation between all the participating countries in the field of Textiles. At the inauguration ceremony, Mr. Phasulavanich sought for creation of opportunity for exchange programme between Thailand -India Education institutions' for higher education in the field of textile and apparel sector, which would lead to mutual benefits for the two nations in the long run.

Also India has significantly createdhigh quality of educationinstitutions in various fieldsparticularly in textile. In thisregard, most textile institutes allover India have been producinghighly skilled manpower toserver Indian textile industry andother related industries operatedby Indian textile manufacturers' at all levels, Mr. Phasulavanich was confident that the GTC would bringlot understanding between Thais and Indian textile industry at alllevels including textile education in textile and apparel sector. TheGTC will provide an opportunity to gain mutual interest and developcloser relations with Thailand textile industry and further upgradeto Thailand - India Business Partnerships, he emphasized.Thai Ministry seek creation of opportunities in field of textile and apparel education Chief Guest, Guest of Honor and the dignitaries were felicitated.

Chief Guest H.E. Chakramon Phasukavanich,

Industry Minister, Government of Kingdom of Thailand Lightening the lamp at the inaugural function

Mr. ArvindSinha, National President felicitating Chief Guest, H. E. Chakramon Phasukavanich

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

H.E. Harsh Vardhan Sringla, Honorable Ambassadorof India to the Kingdom of Thailand Lightening the lamp at the inaugural function

The Thailand Industry Minister noted that the textile industry has been recently facingtough time everywhere in the world and it was no doubt that textileindustry was the largest industrial sector employing millions ofworkers across the world. In terms of textile industry, Mr. Phasulavanich noted thatIndia was a leading textile producer country and it has significantlyachieved the entire value chain of textile's capacity building. January - February 2015

Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President felicitating H. E. Harsh Vardhan Sringla 395

NEWS Also other dignitaries were felicitated.

Mr. V. D. Zope, Chairman felicitating Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli Mr. D. R. Mehta, President Emeritus felicitating Mr. Somsak Srisuponvanit

Mr. K.D. Sanghvi, National Vice President felicitating Mr. Samir Karkhanis

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. R. K. Vij, Conference Chairman felicitating Ms Mamta Verma

This would also facilitate in achieving excellence in the area of productivity, manufacturing, marketing, innovations, research and developments in textiles and that the results as well interactions would be beneficial to the participants at large. Dr. M. D. Teli, Paper Committee Chairman, Ms. Mayuree Didpakdeechol, THTI and Prof. Samir Kharkhanis from WeSchool all have contributed tremendously towards the conference. Global Textile Congress 2015 was an example of great team work and all the members including Mr. K. D. Sanghvi, Mr. V. D. Zope, Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Mr. T. L. Patel, Mr. Haresh Parekh, Mr. V. N. Patil, Mr. Virendra Jariwala, Mr. M. G. Shah & Mr. J. B. Soma of the team worked for months taking every details including accommodation, food etc. for the delegates, Invitees and speakers.

Mr. K. D. Sanghvi, National Vice President felicitating Mrs. Mayuree Didpakdeechol 396

During the conference, the eminent speakers dealt with the modern trends in the development and production of new fibers, both natural and manmade, different January - February 2015

NEWS

TAI also felicitated the members, who have contributed and worked hard to make the Conference a grand success.

Textile Association (India) especially thanks to all the sponsors without their financial support such a big event was not possible, Textile Association (India) also thanks sponsors from Bangkok such as Aditya Birla Group, Indorama for their constant guidance which was very helpful guiding us towards the successful event.

Mr. Y. C. Gupta, Business Head, Indorama Industries Ltd., Mr. S. P. Khaitan, President, Indorama Venture, Bangkok, Mr. D. R. Agarwal, President, P. T. Sudarshan International, Indonesia, Mr. Lalit Kumar, Managing Director, Sunflag (Thailand) Co. Ltd., Mr. Nirmal Maheshwari, President, Indo Thai Synthetics Ltd., Mr. V. K. Agarwal, Director, P. T. Embee Plumbon Textile, Thailand, Mr. S. K. Khandelia, President, K. K. Birla Group, Mr. Sanjeev Lathia, Chairman, India ITME Society, India, Mr. Rajiv Gopal, Senior Executive President & CMO, Birla Cellulose, India, Mr. Prithvi Swaroop, M.D., Intextb, Gandhinagar, India, Mr. Badresh, Badresh Trading Co., Mr. T. L. Patel, President, TAI - Ahmedabad Unit, Mr. Rakesh Kalia, and Mr. M. L. Bagaria.

Mr. D.R. Mehta, delivering his speech during the valedictory session

The unlimited possibilities of exchange of new ideas, techniques and fashion trends were emphasized by most of the experts and technocrats during the conference inviting the talent to further enhance the capabilities by positive and sustained interactions in days to come. It was also pointed out in no uncertain terms that innovative methods and procedures are imperative at all levels in textile industry all over the world so as to live up to the expectation of the masses aspiring for finest fabrics and apparels.

While expressing the gratitude during the valedictory session, Mr. D. R. Mehta briefed about the 3days conference which is successfully organized and also specially thanked Mr. D. B. Bhatt, for his tireless support and co-operation and networking at Bangkok for the GTC. He also appreciated the hard work done by Mr. Vithal Phondke and Mr. Manaji Ghag, TAI Central Office staff and Mr. J. B. Soma. He invited Mr. M. K. Mehra, Dr. Rishi Jamdagni, Mr. Rakesh Kalia and others for their impressions on the GTC.

Global Textile Congress 2015 Bangkok was a very successful event and Textile Association (India) is considering making it regular event at every year at different locations in the world.

At the end of the conference Mr. Haresh Parekh proposed a vote of thanks.

TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONS Book your orders with: THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)Central Office

Mr. K. D. Sanghvi, National Vice President proposed vote of thanks January - February 2015

2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Ground Floor, 91, Ranade Road Extension, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971 397

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

kinds of fabrics and their multifunctional adaptability for extensive usage in other industries too.

INSTITUTIONAL NEWS

Textile Commissioner Graces NITRA's 12th Convocation NITRA's 12th Convocation Ceremony was held on Wednesday, 18th Feb.'15 at NITRA, Ghaziabad. Smt. Kiran Soni Gupta, IAS,Textile Commissioner,Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India was the chief-guest. Chairman, NITRA ShriR. K. Jain, CMD of Pasupati Spinning & Weaving Mills, Dy. Chairman, NITRA Shri Sanjay Jain, MD of hosiery giant TT Ltd., and ShriSanjay Gulati, MD of leading apparel and madeup manufactures Global Impact, all eminent industrialists, were also present on the occasion. A total of 113 students from 8 regular and distance learning programs were awarded certificates and medals in this year's convocation.

Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA, welcomes the audience

Sh. Sanjay Jain, Dy. Chairman, NITRA, in his keynote address opined that though the apparel sector does not have a complex structure, yet continuous innovation is the only recipe for its success in the long run. He further mentioned that NITRA, being near to India's apparel hub consisting of Delhi, Noida, Gurgaon, Faridabad, Ghaziabad, Meerut, Jaipur, Ludhiana and Panipat, is the most ideal institute to undergo training and start a career in textiles and garment industry. He also stressed on industry-student interaction and handson training at NITRA's sophisticated labs.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Smt. KiranSoni Gupta lights on the holy lamp as Dr. ArindamBasu (L) and Sh. Sanjay Jain (R) look on

Director General NITRA Dr. ArindamBasuin his welcome addressmentioned that today NITRA is offering 8 industry oriented techno-management programs on regular, part-time and distance learning modes, covering the areas such as textile/garment manufacturing, designing, merchandising, quality assurance, and finishing. So far most of the students excelled in their career after passing out from NITRA. He informed that at present NITRA has nearly 2000 alumni strength that is efficiently serving in more than 100 renowned apparel and textiles exports companies that had recruited NITRA alumnus in the past five years. He also apprised that under Govt. of India's skill development program (ISDS), as an implementing agency for textile sector, NITRA is in the process of training 16,600 personnel over a stipulated period.

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NITRA pass-out student receives certificate fromSh. Sanjay Jain, Dy. Chairman, NITRA, felicitates Textile Smt. KiranSoni GuptaCommissioner Smt. KiranSoni Gupta with a memento January - February 2015

INSTITUTIONAL NEWS Smt. KiranSoni Gupta, IAS in her Convocation Address stated that the Indian textile and clothing industry offers massive employment opportunities to the countrymen and in terms of volume, it is only second to the agricultural sector. T&C industry also contributes significantly to industrial production, export earnings, and GDP. The Textile Commissioneralso stressed upon the importance of continuous innovation in this industry. In this context, she mentioned about the govt. initiatives and schemes such as ISDS, TMTT, SITP, and TUFS, in order to achieve faster and inclusive growth of this industry for generating additional

employments. Sheexpressed happiness over NITRA's brilliant performance in training youngsters and providing them job opportunities. Sh. Abhijit Pal, Officiating Director, NITRA, proposed the formal vote of thankswhilst ShriParthaBasu, PRO & Faculty,NITRA conducted the event. For details, Please contact: ParthaBasu, PRO & Faculty M.: 9871338998 parthabasu@nitratextile.org

WACKER EXPANDS PRODUCTION CAPACITY FOR DISPERSIONS IN USA ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Annual capacity at Calvert city site (Kentucky, USA) to increase by 85,000 Metric Tons Investment Volume of around •50 Million Additional capacity will be available during the second half of 2015 New Ethylene pipelines secures raw material supply CEO Rudolf Staudigl: "The expansion is essential if we are to meet our customers' demand for our dispersions over the coming years"

Munich / Calvert City, March 9, 2015 - WackerChemie AG isexpanding its existing vinyl acetate-thylene copolymer (VAE)dispersions production facilities in the United States. The Munichbasedchemical company will add a new reactor with an annualcapacity of 85,000 metric tons at its Calvert City site, investing anamount of around •50 million in the site's capacity and infrastructure.This makes the complex the largest of its kind in the Americas. Thenew reactor is scheduled to come on stream by mid-2015. "Capacity expansion is essential if we are to meet our customers'demand for our dispersions over the coming years", explained RudolfStaudigl, CEO of WackerChemie AG, the reason for the investment."After extending our dispersions capacities at our sites in South Korea and China in the course of the last two years, we have now pushed ahead with expanding our production in the US, too. Thus, we will be able to keep pace with future market growth and strengthen our leading position in VAE dispersions", Staudigl said. WACKER has further added an ethylene pipeline to the Calvert City facility for increasing the long-term January - February 2015

reliability of raw material supply at the site. "This investment in our continuous raw-material supply is an important step: it not only makes a key contribution to supply security in the years to come, but also to the cost-efficient production of our dispersions," explained John Fotheringham, vice president of Dispersions at WACKER POLYMERS. With over 50 years' experience in the development and production of vinyl acetate-ethylene copolymer dispersions, WACKER is a global technology and market leader in this field. VINNAPAS® dispersions are popular binders in the construction, paints, coatings and adhesives industries. The dispersions find application, for instance, in the formulation of lowodor and low-emission indoor paints, but also in plasters, technical textiles and nonwovens, carpet adhesives and as binders in polymer materials based on renewable resources. For further information, please contact: WackerChemie AG Media Relations & Information Nadine Baumgartl Tel. +49 89 6279-1604 Fax +49 89 6279-2604 nadine.baumgartl@wacker.com

Texttreasure The function of education is to teach one to think intensively and to think critically. Intelligence plus character - that is the goal of true education. - Martin Luther King, Jr. 399

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FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA

ABROAD

10th Edition of Fibres and Yarns 2015 Date : 09th to 10th April, 2015 Venue : World Trade Centre, Cuff Parede, Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. Rakesh Sharma Tecoya Trend Publications Pvt. Ltd. D/66 Ground Floor, Oshiwara Industrial Center, Opposite Goregaon Oshiwara Bus Depot, Link Road, Goregaon West, Mumbai - 400 062 India Tel. : +91-22-66978535, 66978534, 66978535 Fax : +(91)-22-28793022 Mobile : +91-9999251621 E-mail : tecoya@gmail.com Website : http://www.fibersnyarns.com, www.tecoya.com

13th Asian Textile Conference (ATC-13) Federation of Asian Professional Textile Association (FAPTA) Date : 03rd to 06th November, 2015 Venue : Australian coastal city of Geelong, Victoria. Australia Contact : Prof. Xungai Wang (Alfred Deakin Professor) Chair of the Organising Committee Director, Australian Future Fibres Research & Innovation Centre (AFRIC), Deakin University, Australia Tel. : +61-03-5227 2894 Mobile : +61-419525434 E-mail : xungai.wang@deakin.edu.au Website : www.atc-13.org

TECHNOTEX 2015 4th International Exhibition & Conference on Technical Textiles Date : 09th to 11th April, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. AmitKakkar / Mr. AbhishekNaagar FICCI Trade Fair Secretariat, Federation House, 1, TansenMarg, New Delhi - 110 001 Fax : +91-11-23359734 Mobile : +91-9654258258, +91-9560830833 E-mail : amit.kakkar@ficci.com, abhishek.naagar@ficci.com, Website : http://www.technotexindia.in

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Non Woven Tech Asia 2015 2nd International Exhibition & Conference of Non Woven Industry Date : 4th-6th June, 2015 Venue : Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Contact : Radeecal Communications 402, 4th Floor, Optionz Complex, Opp. Nest Hotel, Off C.G. Road, Navarangpura, Ahmedabad - 380 009 India Tel. : +91-79-26401101, M.: +91-9173440725 E-mail : sales@nonwoventechasia.com Website : www.nonwoventechasia.com Techtextil India (Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwoven) Date : 24th to 26th September, 2015 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd., 215, Atrium, 2nd Floor, B Wing, AndheriKurla Road, Andheri, Mumbai - 400 093 India Tel. : +91 (0)22-61445900 Fax : +91 0)22-61445999 Website : www.messefranfurtindia.in

INDIATEX 2016 International Textile Exhibition Date : 16-18th March, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convenor The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, 86, College Road, Near Portuguese Church, Meher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India Tel. : +91-22-2432 8044, 2430 7702, Fax : +91-22-2430 7708 Mobile : +91-9167515676, +91-9324904271 E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtni.net.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com, www.indiatex.co.in ITMA 2015 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 12th to 19th November, 2015 Venue : Fiera, Milano Rho, Milan, Italy Contact : MP Expositions Pte Ltd. 20, Kallang Avenue, 2nd Floor, Pico Creative Centre, Singapore 339411 Tel. : +65 6393 0241, Fax: +65 6296 2670 E-mail : info@itma.com, Website : http://www.itma.com ITME 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Technologies Showcase Date : 03rdto 08th December, 2016 Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : Executive Director India ITME Society 1210/1211 Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor, Plot No.211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021 India Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032 / +91-022-2282 8139 E-mail : itme@itme-india.com Website : www.itme@itme-india.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.. 400

January - February 2015