AUGUST ISSUE 2018 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

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August 2018

Volume 6

Issue 8

Interview : SGCCI Management

Market report : Yarn, Surat

Clothing from Sorona Fibre

Economy Update

Characteristics Of Bamboo-Polyester

Brand Focus : GARWARE / ATE / DCC

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YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

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GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

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EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Marketing Executive Graphic Designer

: Ms. Jigna Shah : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Ms. Nishi Patel : Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda Mr. Manohar Samuel Mr. Shailendra Pandey Mr. Ajay Sharma Mr. Avinash Mayekar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Mr. R.D. Udeshi

: City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries : VP (Head â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) : Consulting Editor : President, Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd.

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA

CONTENT

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

August 2018 ISSUE

COVER STORY

BRAND FOCUS

11- Textile in Farming by DKTE Professors

32- Garware Fibers

14- Natural Fibers and its usage by Yuryangla Muilung

33- ATE GROUP

17- Clothing from Sorona Fibers by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra

34- DCC

19- Characteristics Of Bamboo-Polyester Blended Spun Yarns On Ring, Compact, Siro, Compact Siro Spinning Systems by DKTE Professors

35- SHOW CALENDAR 37- INTERVIEW: SGCCI Management

Advertiser Index

MARKET REPORT 23- Surat Report 24- Fibre and Yarn export robust in June on low base 25- Global Textile Pricing Trend in June 2018 26- Economy Update 27- Outlook EVENT UPDATE 28- National Garment Fair, Mumbai 30- Source India 2018

Back Page: Raymond

Page 8 : Source India 2018

Back Inside: Aerovent

Page 13: Textest Instruments

Front Inside: Raysil

Page 22: Tomsic

Page 3: Smartext Solution

Page 29: Keisokki

Page 4: Sanjay Plastic

Page 38: Gentex

Page 5: SGS Innovation

Page 39: DN Associate

Page 6: SKBS

Page 40: Australia Sourcing Expo

Page 7: Leed

31- ASSOCIATION NEWS : NITRA

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EDITORIAL

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

‘‘Sometimes

the Bad things that happen in our lives, put us directly on the path to the best things that will ever happen to us.’’

Textile Value Chain Start from Fibre, which is the first raw material to make a beautiful garment. Sustainable fashion is most used word world over in a most fashionable term. But what is reality? World consumption of MMF (Man Made fiber) is 60 %, Natural fiber is 40 % and India is just reverse ie 60:40 (Natural: MMF). MMF fiber is made up of chemicals and petroleum products which is non-biodegradable, non-sustainable. Commercially making MMF fiber companies’ R&D center need to make sustainable fiber. Natural fiber is available in limited quantity against the demand of world, priced heavily as compared to MMF. Research required for developing new natural fiber in commercial production. In India, many natural Fibres are available and developed pilot project for natural fiber but no commercially viable projects are encouraged by government funding. Technology for New natural Fibre to yarn should be developed. More Mix fiber i.e. MMF and Natural fiber needs to develop like viscose. More research is needed in this area to make a sustainable fashion / fiber. When we now talk about Fibre Neutrality, war should not be Cotton V/S MMF but Natural V/S MMF V/S Mix fiber. In a long run Mix fiber is the only sustainable fiber and most commercially used fiber. Tax rate of all need to be revised in near future. We wish you Fruitful Festive Season..!!!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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August 2018

COVER STORY

TEXTILES IN FARMING INTRODUCTION – Agro industry is of paramount importance as humanity is served upon it, if this industry goes down it will turn out as an apocalypse. To cope up with the demands of ever growing population conventional agricultural techniques aren’t sufficient or capable. With growing population land acquisition for housing has begun to increase and it has resulted in reduction in agricultural land. Many techniques have been since applied to improve the productivity of land by use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides, which indirectly impacted human health and since then many rules and regulations have been enforced by the government to reduce the harmful effects on human health. Textile industry on the other hand has helped agriculture by many means directly by bird nets, mulch mats etc. and indirectly by preventing soil erosion with help of geo textiles. Also the vertical farming techniques helped achieve better results with higher production in less area by utilizing vertical space instead of horizontal space. Soil-less farming techniques like hydroponics, aeroponics and aquaponics are quite successful but are rarely used due to their high costs, and are only limited to laboratory production and for space research. PROBLEMS IN TRADITIONAL AGRICULTURE – Traditional farming employs very less technology near to none. It is highly impacted by acts of nature like climate, weather and season. Farmers spend most of the money on fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides for protection of the crop from failure, but those things are deleterious. The water utilized for cultivation in soil is always higher than required for the plant because when watered the soil takes up maximum water and then it slowly goes on spreading to a wider area. As a result crops do not get enough water for its growth, also with the help of drip irrigation it can’t go beyond certain limit. Almost 70% of the watered water is wasted due to inefficient irrigation. In a world with ever-growing population and pollution, it is imperative that resources like water, sunlight, soil, and money are used effectively. USE OF TEXTILES IN AGRICULTURE Agro textile is use of textile material in the agricultural. Textile products play an important role in agriculture from different point of view like climatic condition and production. As per previous studies it is observed that with growing population demand for food has also increased which created a stress on agro industry. So agrotextile is helpful to reduce this stress by increase the yield, quality and quantity of agro-products, which is not possible only with the traditional agriculture [1].

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There are many agro-textile products available in market. Sunscreen – it is used to protect crops and greenhouses from excess solar radiation which will harm the plants and directly the yield. It also used to control the amount of shade required. Bird protection net – it is used to protect seeds, crops and fruits against damage caused by birds and similar nets are used to prevent damage from hailstorms. Fruit covers – to keep the fruit from decaying by the action of insects and bugs. Ground cover – Weed in the field of plants creates problems to the growth of plant and also the quality of the fruit or grain so to avoid the growth of weeds mulch mats are used they cover the ground and only area open is for the plant. Windshield – it is used to protect fruit plantations from wind and also prevents damage to plants. Root ball net – it is important for safe and speedy growing of young plants. Insect meshes – these are helpful to keep out harmful insects from greenhouses. Turf protection net – it helps to minimize soil erosion loss and improve conservation. Monofil nets – these are used for windbreak barriers, it protects plants against the harmful effects of weather. Net for covering pallets – mesh nets are used for safe transportation of fruits and vegetables to the market, it helps to stop the boxes being turned upside down [2]. All the above textile products help to improve quantity and quality of the agricultural product so we can say that textiles can be backbone of the agriculture [3]. There are two limits of arid and semi-arid areas shortage of water and shortage of soil organic matter. In 1970 United Nations FAO suggested research on the use of organic waste from the industrial world to improve soil productivity in developing countries. During cultivation this carbon from textile material is added by vegetation sequestration of soil as organic waste. It gives reason to start field research on the use of textiles as a soil enhancement [4]. Textiles are the one of solution for water conservation. The wetting property of textiles is useful for water conservation. Like in nonwoven fabrics wetting of material depends on porosity of the fabric that is the wetting

COVER STORY property of nonwoven fabric is influenced by their basic weight or pore structure [5]. Also water absorbing sheet like material which consist of water absorbent polymer and prefabricated nonwoven fabrics. This type of water absorbing sheets are useful for water conservation [6]. SOME RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN AGRO-TEXTILE There are some other textile products are also used to increase quality, quantity and to reduce time and water wastage. Some of the products like• Development of durable and barrier work wear fabrics for agro-textile application. • Development of sun light reflective agro-textile. • Development of barrier packaging as agricultural produce. •Drip lined agro-mats for automated irrigation which helps in reducing water wastage and water scarcity issues [7]. • Nonwoven fabric sheet for agricultural is allow water to pass from upper surface to inner surface because of hydrophilic treatment applied on surface [8]. Growing population, changes in life style and rapid urbanization are changing the land use pattern. Urban expansion leads to loss of agricultural land [9]. This is affecting on food production. So it becomes important to conserve and protect the potential farmlands. Solution for this is vertical constructions which also include vertical farming [10]. Solution for above problem is called as vertical farming. In this crops grow in controlled environment. In this growing plants are stacked in layers [11]. Also for such small scale farming drip irrigation system can be production asset. In this system water and nutrients are allowed to drip slowly near the plant roots through a network of pipes. It helps in reduced water use, joint management of irrigation and fertilization, reduced pest problems, simplicity, low pumping needs, automation, adoption, production management [12]. There are some problems with conventional farming like high and inefficient use of water, large land requirements, high concentration of nutrient consumption and soil degradation. Conventional farming uses large quantities of irrigation fresh water and fertilizers, conventional farming may present health concerns for people and animals, it may farm the surrounding environment, large scale conventional farming takes away from small scale farmers, also farmers cannot produce crop that are off season [13]. For some of these problems organic farming is solution and considering all problems of conventional farming modern soil-less farming techniques are alternatives for them. Organic farming promotes biodiversity, it improves soil health, and only natural methods are used in organic farming.

tice in other countries. Technologies like hydroponics, aeroponics, and aquaponics are some of the soilless farming technologies. In some metropolitan areas soil is not available or scarcity of fertile land, so considering this soilless culture is developed [14]. In hydroponic system plants grown in solution culture have their roots suspended directly in a nutrient solution. Hydroponics is the fastest growing sector of agriculture, and it could very well dominate food production in future. This system gives advantages like high productivity as compared to conventional one, also it gives superior quality, and rapid plant growth, it requires 90% less water than conventional farming. With these advantages this system also has some disadvantages like high cost of electricity improvements, use of large amount of plastic materials which are not recyclable; plants are very sensitive to temperature variation. But in India hydroponic system is at theoretical level [15]. Aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air medium without use of soil. Its basic principle is to grow plants in a closed or semi-closed environment by spraying the plant’s roots with nutrient water solution. Benefits of using aeroponics system more efficient use of water. Almost 99% less water is consumed than conventional farming. No pesticides and soil fertilizers are used so, fruit and vegetables obtained are pure and doesn’t need to be washed before use. Delivers nutrients directly to the plant roots, which results in faster growth of crops. Fruits and vegetables obtained from an aeroponics system are healthy, nutritious, pure, rich, fresh and tasteful. Uniform growth among all crops. This system is mainly established for optimal and economical irrigation control [16]. MARKET The domestic agro textile market is expected to grow at the rate of 8% Combined Annual Growth Rate (CAGR). Food security is the major problem in India and worldwide major problem is climate change, studies indicate probability of 10-40% less crop production in the country due to anticipated rise in temperature by 2050-60. This is the underlying driving force behind the agro-tech sector, to improve and give better yield. Agro-textile share only 1.5 percent of total technical textile market in India [3]. CONCLUSION • Organic farming technique is best compared to conventional farming. • As land acquisition for shelter is increasing vertical farming must be developed in order to cope up with demands of social life. • Hydroponics and aeroponics improve the quality and quantity of agricultural products, but they are too costly to be commercially successful.

Modern crop technologies of soilless farming is in prac-

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COVER STORY REFERENCES 1] Mr. Sunil K. Agrawal, ‘application of textile in agriculture’, International Journal of Advanced Research in Science and Engineering, vol. no.2, issue no.7, July 2013. 2]SemaPalamutcu and NalanDevrent, ‘technical textiles for agricultural applications’, International Interdisciplinary Journal of Scientific Research, vol. no.3, issue no.1, July 2017. 3] D. Gopalkrishnan, ‘Agro textiles – A rising wave’, fibre2fashion, July 2017. 4] Bo G. Eriksson, ‘Organic textile waste as a resource for sustainable agriculture in arid and semi-arid areas’, open access at Springerlink. com, pp. 155-161, 2017. 5] Lu Zhu, Anne Perwuelz, Maryline Lewandowski, Christine Champagne, ‘Wetting Behavior of Thermally Bonded Polyester Nonwoven Fabrics: The Importance of Porosity’, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, vol. 102, pp. 387-394, 2006. 6] JochenHouben, Edgar Herrmann, Kurt Dahmen, ‘Process for Producing A Water Absorbing Sheet Materials And The Use Thereof’, United State Patent, Oct. 1996. 7] VeenaSindhuja, Vijayakumar, ‘Development Agro-Mat Using Textile Nonwoven’, International Conference on Recent Innovations in Sciences, Management, Education and Technology, pp. 828- 838, August 2016.

A GIS Based Study of Saharanpur City, India’, Environment and Urbanization, vol. 12, issue 2, pp. 133- 149, October 2000. 10] Kavitha A, Somashekar R K, Nagaraja B C, ‘Urban Expansion And Loss of Agricultural Land – A Case of Bengaluru City’, International Journal Of Geomatics And Geosciences, vol. 5, issue 3, pp. 492-498, 2015. 11] www.attra.ncat.org 12] http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/HS1144/HS388 13] Katharina Niemeyer and Jan Lombard, ‘Identifying Problems and Potential of the Conversion to Organic Farming in South Africa’. 14] Ioan Grad, CameliaManescu, TeodorMateoc, NicoletaMateocSIRB, ‘New Trends in Agriculture- Crop Systems Without Soil’, Scientific Papers Series Management, Economic Engineering in Agriculture and Rural Development, vol. 14, issue 1, pp. 143-146, 2014. 15] Mamta D. Sardare, Shradhha V. Admane, ‘A Review on Plant Without Soil – Hydroponics’, International Journal of Research in Engineering aqnd Technology, vol. 2, issue 3, pp. 299-304, March 2013. 16] P Mithunesh, Kiran Gupta, SujataGhule, Prof. ShaileshHule, ‘Aeroponic Based Controlled Environment Based Farming System’, IOSR Journal Of Computer Engineering, vol. 17, issue 6, pp. 55-58, 2015.

Miss Aaditi Chougule

8]http://www.google.co.in/patents/US5021285 9] ShahabFazal, ‘Urban Expansion and Loss of Agricultural Land –

Prof. S.G.Kulkarni, Mr. Aniket Bhute DKTE Society’s Textile And Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra

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COVER STORY

NATURAL FIBRES AND ITS USAGE. Natural fibre clothing is made from natural materials that have been used to make clothing for thousands of years. They are greatly elongated substances produced by plants and animals that can be spun into filaments, thread or rope. Woven, knitted, matted or bonded, they form fabrics that are essential to society. Plant fibres include seed hairs, such as cotton, stem fibres such as flax and hemp, leaf fibres like sisal, and husk fibres such as coconut. Animal fibres include wool, silk, etc. COTTON The fibres are cool, soft to the touch and comfortable use to clothing. They are highly absorbent, breathable, and can withstand high temperatures. Pima cotton, muslin and lawn are thinner fabrics making them more suitable for curtains, drapes, valances, blinds and tablecloths. Ladies are offered a large choice of solid and patterned cotton fabrics for dresses like lawn, voile, poplin, batiste, muslin, while men get to enjoy seersucker, poplin, gauze and madras. Sheer cotton fabrics are perfect for airy blouses, shirt dresses and skirts. Eyelet variety allows more air to come through, also makes chiс apparel like shorts, dresses and tops. According to report of Interagency Commodity Estimates Committee, Lyman Stone Global consumption projected for 2017/2018 is at 114.0 M bales. China consumption will goes to 700,000 bales. India adjusts to demonetization and Cotton’s share of world fibre market continues to decline. Figure: Cotton production by country worldwide in 2017/2018 in 1,000 metric tons (source: https://www. statista.com). Silk Silk is one of the oldest textile fibres known to man. The Chinese have used it since the 27th century BC.. It has wonderful texture and lustre. Brocade, damask and taffeta are ideal for tailored curtains, pelmets and cushions, whereas organza is the most suitable for drapes and bed skirts. Silk remains the “queen of fabrics”. They are soft and cool to the touch, natural sheen, less breathable than cotton or linen. Silk is luxurious, beautiful and keeps you warm in the cold or cool in the heat. Silk is all good for clothing, medical textiles and home furnishings. IBEF (India Brand Equity Foundation) market report had shown that, April-February 2017-18, export of silk and silk products from India stood at US$ 198.96 million In FY 2017-18 top five importers of silk carpet were US (US$ 1.40 million), UAE (US$ 0.95 million), Belgium (US$ 0.13 million), Germany (US$ 0.04 million) and Italy (US$ 0.03 million).

Coir - A coarse, short fibre extracted from the outer shell of coconuts, coir is found in ropes, mattresses, brushes, geo-textiles and automobile seats. Coir is used to make sacking, twine, doormats and items such as bags and ropes. Coir can also be used in construction and to improve clays. It is good for controlling soil erosion. The fibre is obtained from the husk of the fruit of the coconut palm. After retting, the fibres are subtracted from the husk with beating and washing. The fibres are strong, light and easily withstand heat and salt water. In the month of February 2, Kerala state had assured a second restructuring plan for coir sector, with a plan omnibus to the tune of Rs 1,200 crore for coir industry. For 2018-2019, the state has earmarked `211 crore for coir industry. Globally, about 1.1 million tonnes of Coir are produced annually, mainly in India and Sri Lanka. Its total value is estimated at $200 million. Flax - When ripe, the plants are pulled from the ground rather than cut, to avoid loss of fibre length from the stubble left in the field. Pulling flax by hand is very laborious work. It is one of nature’s strongest vegetable fibres, flax was also one of the first to be harvested, spun and woven into textiles. Flax has good heat conducting properties and durable. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds tends to break the fibres. Flax is used for the production of linen and canvas, ropes and sacks. France is the largest flax producer in quantity whereas China produces less quantity on the largest surfaces. China is a major buyer of raw flax for processing, with imports of 60 000 tons a year, including most of European flax fibres. Hemp - A Hemp yarn is strong and has of all natural fibres the highest resistance against water, but it shouldn’t be creased excessively to avoid breakage. Hemp is quite unusual in that it is both very soft and durable. It can be used for many things from work clothing to home decoration such as table linens, dish towels and sheets. The fibre is used for the production of rope, fishing nets, paper, sacks, fire hoses and textile. It has a great lustre and dyes easily. Figure: Total Value U.S imports of selected hemp products from 1996-2017 in1000 U.S. (Source: www.statista. com) Statista illustrates the total value of imported selected hemp products in the U.S. from 1996 to 2017. In 2017, the total import value of hemp products came to some 67.33 million U.S. dollars. Between 2000 and 2016, world production of Hemp fibre grew from 50 000 tonnes to more than 100 000 tonnes, almost half of it produced in

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August 2018

COVER STORY duces sturdy and strong fibres that are very well resistant against moist and heat. Too coarse for clothing, sisal is replacing glass fibres in composite materials used to make cars and furniture. It is mainly used for ropes, mats, carpets and cement reinforcement. Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Republic Of South Africa 2015, mention that worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top 5 Countries producer of sisal from 2005 to 2013 in average quantities/values (tonnes) are Brazil 231,535.75, United Republic of Tanzania 27,460.50, Kenya 24,678.25 Mexico 18,047.50, Madagascar 17,463.75. Alpaca wool -Alpaca is used to make high-end luxury fabrics, with world production estimated at around 5000 tonnes a year. Alpaca fibres are durable and cheaper than cashmere. China. Production in the EU was 30 000 tonnes. China is the largest exporter of Hemp textiles, mainly to Europe and North America, where the market for hemp clothing is growing rapidly. Jute - The fibres are extracted from the ribbon of the stem. When harvested the plants are cut near the ground with a sickle shaped knife. The small fibres, 5 mm, are obtained by successively retting in water, beating, stripping the fibre from the core and drying. Due to its short fibre length, jute is the weakest stem fibre, although it withstands rotting very easily. It is used as packaging material (bags), carpet backing, ropes, yarns and wall decoration, fashion apparel, soft luggage. The threads made from jute fibre are used worldwide in sackcloth - and help sustain the livelihoods of millions of small farmers.

In 2014, Peru exported $175 million alpaca fibre. Alpaca numbers in Australia are estimated to be between 170,000 and 450,000, with the higher estimate considerable in view that the sheep flock only numbers around 70 million. Wool ranging from 24 through to 26.8 micron is blended with alpaca. In volume terms Alpaca is middling amongst the animal fibres, on par with mohair and angora volumes. Some 80% of world alpaca production comes from Peru and Bolivia with three quarters of this production now going to China for processing Angora wool -The silky white wool of the Angora rabbit is very fine and soft, and used in high quality knitwear Abaca â&#x20AC;&#x201C; This are for rope, abaca shows promise as an energy-saving replacement for glass fibres in automobiles. Cashmere -Cashmere is exceptionally soft to the touch owing to the structure of its fibres and has great insulation properties without being bulky.

According to the July 2018, Jute market report of WGC Natural Fibre Worldwide, Raw jute exports from July 2017 up to May 2018 were 1,126,271 bales against 1,188,985 bales during the same period under review in the year 2016-2017. Jute goods production of IJMA jute mills and jute mills reporting to IJMA during May 2018 amounted to 79.600 million tons of which 2.600 million tons were jute yarns/twines.

Mohair â&#x20AC;&#x201C; It is usually a silk-like fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. Both durable and resilient mohair is notable for its high lustre and sheen. Very fine and silky, mohair is noted for its softness, brightness and receptiveness to rich dyes.

Ramie fibre is white, with a silky lustre, and is one of the strongest natural fibres, similar to flax in absorbency and density. Ramie is an extensive and durable fibre and can be dyed very easily, and is therefore more often used in decorative fabrics than as construction material. Applications are curtains, wallpaper, sewing thread and furniture covers, pillow cases, tablecloths, sacks and cable insulation. The main producers of ramie today are China, Brazil, Philippine, India, South Korea and Thailand.

Textile & Clothing industry ranks as the second largest polluter of the environment which has increased the relevance of Sustainability in this sector. When it comes to the sustainability of clothing, natural fibre clothing is generally more sustainable than synthetic fibres.

Sisal -The plants look like giant pineapples. During harvest the leaves are cut as close to the ground as possible. The soft tissue is scraped from the fibres by hand or machine. The fibres are dried and brushes remove the remaining dirt, resulting in a clean fibre. Sisal pro-

August 2018

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Camel hair -The best fibre is found on the Bactrian camels of Mongolia and Inner Mongolia, and baby camel hair is the finest and softest.

Innovation is the key to create trends and light holder to the future. The fashion industry, being a role model for trend creation is now heading towards the trend of Sustainability Image source: https://textilebeat.com/ World production of natural fibres rose from 28 million

COVER STORY fast healing of skin tissues prevents bacterial growth and reduces odor. Lotus Fibre Lotus fibres are extracted from lotus stem and feel like a blend of silk and linen. It has unique slub effect on the surface with a soft touch and lustrous look. Lotus fibres are extremely breathable and can be worn throughout the year. Fabrics made from lotus fibre are wrinkle-free, lightweight, water proof and has inherent anti-bacterial features. These innovative features undoubtedly make Lotus fibre a Smart Sustainable fibre. Pineapple Fibre

metric tons to an estimated 30 million in 2016. The value of production at the farm level was approximately $50 billion during 2016. Higher prices for cotton and jute during 2015 led to increased production of both in 2016. Cotton production rose to 23 million tons, jute reached 3 million tons, wool and coir production are each estimated at approximately 1 million tons, and all other natural fibres together amounted to about 2 million tons in 2016. World production of all fibres is estimated to have exceeded 100 million metric tons for the first time in 2016, a milestone for mankind and fibre industries. Natural fibres accounted for 30% of the total and manmade fibres the balance. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high time for Apparel industry to focus on green fashion trends which can keep the mother earth safe and clean. Smart Sustainable fibres are the best solution for this emerging trend which will not only keep the environment clean but also it will offer most contemporary fashion with added functional features. Some of the innovative fibres include:

Pineapple Fibre is also on the list of Smart sustainable fibre extracted from the leaves of Pineapple plant, called as Pina. Pina fibres are strong, shiny as silk, lightweight and easy to wash & care. Fibres are very fine and luxurious to touch which makes it an Elite fibre. Pineapple fibre is also an alternative to leather which is biodegradable. Coffee Fibre Coffee fibre which uses spent coffee ground as a raw material in yarn production. Coffee yarn controls and absorbs bad odor, reflects UV rays & protect skin and has fast drying feature. Fabric made from coffee fibre provides comfortable feel combined with functional qualities suitable for all outdoor as well as lifestyle activities. These Smart Sustainable solutions will give a new shape to fashion in the coming year which will make consumers more demanding for these trends.

Rose Fibre Rose fibre which is protein enriched cellulosic fibre made from the stem of Rose plant. It gives soft hand feels like silk, its natural flexibility gives a perfect fit to the body and has excellent colour fastness feature. Also, Rose fibre is good for peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin, it promotes regeneration and

Yuryangla Muilung SVT & NIFT - Mumbai Student

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August 2018

COVER STORY

CLOTHING FROM SORONA

Dr. N.N.Mahapatra President, SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

There are two opportunities for biobased products to penetrate the textiles market. First, biobased fibres derived from either agricultural crops or forestry waste can be processed and developed to replace or blended with existing natural fibres. On the other hand, biobased chemicals can be used to manufacture polymeric materials that, depending on their characteristics, can be spun into fibre for use in textiles. Biobased chemicals such as diols, diamines, diacids, etc. all have the potential to be used for manufacture of polyesters and nylons. This is the technology behind Dupont’s Sorona fibre technology, which produces propanediol that can be used to make polyester. A new bio-based material for the 21st century.The properties of polyesters based on propanediol have been well documented for many years, but until the last several years, an economical source of propanediol was not available. As other biobased chemicals that can be polymerized become available at competitive pricing, it can be expected that… DuPont discovered Sorona® in the 1940s but did not commercialize it at the time because of the high cost of the key ingredient propanediol (PDO). A seven-year research program that began in 1993 concluded with the development of a process to make Bio-PDO™ from corn sugar. In 2004, a joint venture between DuPont and Tate & Lyle was formed to build, manufacture and sell this new renewably sourced monomer. The world’s first Bio-PDO™ plant in Loudon, Tenn., began commercial production in November 2006. The process to make Bio-PDO™ consumes 40 percent less total energy and reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 20 percent versus petroleum-based propanediol. Production of 100 million pounds of Bio-PDO™ through the DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products joint venture will save the equivalent of 13.5 million gallons of gasoline per year, or enough to fuel 24,000 cars annually. DuPont™ Sorona® is the first bio-based, renewably sourced

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FIBRES

polymer from DuPont. It contains 37 percent renewably sourced materials derived from corn. A breakthrough in polymer science, DuPont scientists developed a way to make Bio-PDO™, the key Sorona® ingredient, from corn using a new biological process. Whether it’s textile fibers and fabrics for home interiors and apparel, carpeting or a variety of packaging applications such as films, sealants, foams, rigid containers, Sorona® imparts distinctive, value-added characteristics. DuPont™ Sorona® polymer provides a 2GD 3GD 4GD unique combination of benefits to a wide variety of applicatons. This advanced, value-added polymer represents a major new mix-enrichment offering, with the potential for growing into a significant market over the next ten to twenty years. . Sorona is a world leader in the textile industry - DuPont has introduced a new generation of one of the most innovative textile materials for clothing and bring a unique combination of performance advantages. Application of the Tianzi Sorona the performance of textile materials in yoga clothes and underwear on innovative design reflects its original ecological concept, but also a vivid interpretation of the Sorona “outstanding performance, from natural” claim, set off a fitness and underwear low-carbon fashion style. Manufacturing ; A unique molecular structure DuPont™ Sorona® polymer is a unique polymer based on 1,3 propanediol (PDO). Its beneficial properties are derived from a unique, semi-crystalline molecular structure featuring a pronounced “kink”, as shown in this image. Sorona® polymer is a fiber-grade, which means it has a uniform micro-structure and a high molecular weight that enhances processing. It can be spun into fiber or made into fabric in many existing facilities that now process PET. Because Sorona® polymer is manufactured in a continuous process, the variation of polymer properties is limited. As a result, processing problems and waste generation are minimized, leading to increased productivity. Sorona polymer (scientific name: polyethylene tereph-

COVER STORY thalate, or PTT) is a DuPont the company’s new “intelligent” spinning raw materials, some from natural renewable resources - Preparation of bio-based PDO. The basic raw material production of Sorona polymer there are two: 1,3 - propanediol (PDO) and terephthalic acid (TPA). Than half a century ago, DuPont has found 1,3 - propanediol (PDO), the production of key raw materials Sorona polymer. However, PDO’s production costs are too high, has not been able to achieve industrial production. To the early 90s of last century, DuPont, together with strategic partners finally succeeded in developing bio-PDO process route preparation, and finally officially introduced to the market this innovative new materials revolutionary low-carbon environment.PDO in the total proportion of raw materials accounted for 37% of PDO’s Sorona based on biological products is a sustainable development of the product. Sorona® polymer is produced with renewable bio-based PDO through a fermentation process from corn sugar, which adds a brilliant point of environmental protection concept. Following are the steps for manufacturing ; 1.

Harvesting the corn .

Getting sugar from the corn.

The Fermenter ; Turning sugar into a monomer.

Turning monomers into polymers.

Fibres and fabrics are created . Properties Of Sorona fibre ; DuPontTM Sorona® polymer is the latest , the most advanced and eco-friendly macromolecule polymer developed by DuPontTM currently whose main material is from bio-based 1,3-Propanediol (PDO). As one of the licensees of DuPontTM located in China mainland, Shaoxing Global Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd is authorized to use DuPont’s technology to develop, produce and sell SovireTM filament yarn, its fabrics and garments made with Sorona® polymer. Sorona® is called “smart” polymer by the industry because it combines the properties of polyester and nylon, provides designers and consumers with various merits as follows: Super softness & bulkiness Fabrics made with Sorona® are softer, with a more natural feel and a more cotton-like hand, than any other existing synthetic yarns. It also has good draping property. yy Excellent stretch-recovery yy Fabrics made with Sorona® give with ease, then springs right back into shape, combing relaxed comfort with great fit. yy Vibrant color

yy From one color to Technicolor, fabrics made with Sorona® hold deep rich colors and sharp, vivid prints. They are easy to dye — requiring no additional heat, pressure or carriers. And best of all, colors are washfast so they won’t fade with repeated washings. yy UV & Chlorine resistance For today’s active lifestyles, fabrics made with Sorona® keep their colorful good looks even when exposed to UV & Chlorine, thus suitable for swimsuit and active wear. yy Stain resistance and ease care Fabrics made with Sorona® have stain-resistant, antistatic, fast–dry and wrinkle-free properties, they allow designers and manufacturers to create the carefree clothing that consumers value — clothing that transits from work space to play space. Sorona polymer chain was visible ring structure, and its base group of three more to make the combination of carbon fiber with PET or PBT and nylon with different characteristics. Because of its low Young’s modulus, Sorona fiber is 3 times the normal PET fiber soft hand; and spring-like molecular structure gives a comfortable back elastic and perfect performance. These features give designers a broad design brings tremendous freedom. Sorona fiber can be used alone, but also with other natural and synthetic woven or blended; Sorona fabric made of flexible, from underwear to coats, from sports to suits, from the shape memory to fashion jeans, Sorona everywhere, has been gradually penetrate into people’s daily life. Leader in high-performance carbon fabric trend Tianzi brand is the swimsuit / fitness brand, one of the leaders, began in 2008 with Sorona, to develop yoga clothing line, and in 2009 achieved excellent sales results. This year, Tianzi in yoga clothing based on the further development of Sorona fabric made by the new underwear. USES OF SORONA FIBRE Yoga clothes made with Sorona has fine silky touch, flowlike vertical sense of tremendous freedom to exercise comfort; and underwear made with Sorona not only has the “second skin” and silky touch, and The perfect fabric for underwear in the back performance after repeated washing can maintain beautiful appearance. Meanwhile, the fabric can stretch comfort and complete recovery without deformation, to wear a great movement to bring “freedom.” In addition, its excellent drying and not fade after washing, excellent chemical resistance, resistance to chlorine / UV, anti-wrinkle, stain and so is the nature of consumers favor; garment fabric, high-performance and durability are given Sorona the core value of various types of clothing. These are so beautiful clothes with a long look and wearing comfort. A new collection of laptop bags has been designed making use of DuPont’s biobased Sorona polymer which is made from renewable

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COVER STORY corn-based feedstock. Not only that, Sorona more numerous environmentalists pursue environmental value: Sorona production of a key raw material used (PDO) from renewable resources can be sustainable, rather than the traditional petrochemical raw materials, thus reducing the chemical fiber industry revolutionary dependence on oil resources. Meanwhile, the same output compared to nylon 6 polymers, Sorona polymer process can not only reduce 63% carbon dioxide (the greenhouse gas) emissions, but also consumes 30% less energy. Because it is a thermoplastic polymer, so easy to recycle. DuPont’s Sorona polymer is currently used in fiber materials for the ceiling surface skin, sun visor and pillar garnish of Japan-based Toyota’s new Sai model, launched in December 2009. The biopolymer is

a polytrimethylene terephthalate resin, made from a copolymerization of terephthalic acid and DuPont’s cornbased 1,3 propanediol. Tianzi International (HK) Ltd general manager Zhang Xiangyang confidently told reporters: “We brand the fabric of performance and quality requirements are high, Sorona is the ideal material for compliance with our requirements. Not only that, Sorona environmental value of further help us meet the strong demand for environmentally conscious customers. Casual/outdoor wear, Jeans, Active/sports wear: swimwear, golf-wear, gym-wear, etc, Women’s & men’s formal wear, Knitwear, Intimate wear Home textile products such as blankets, carpets; automotive inner decorative fabrics etc.

CHARACTERISTICS OF BAMBOO-POLYESTER BLENDED SPUN YARNS ON RING, COMPACT, SIRO, COMPACT SIRO SPINNING SYSTEMS

Abstract Ring spinning is the most popular and universal spinning system due to its significant advantages in comparison with the new spinning systems. But the yarn properties are hampered in ring spinning system with the increase of spindle speed and spinning triangle. Overall yarn properties can be improved by retro fitting conventional ring spinning machine. It also ensures better yarn properties such as strength & elongation, unevenness %, imperfections, hairiness etc. The 40¬S Ne of Bamboo: Polyester :: 35:65 Proportion was manufactured on four different spinning systems viz. Ring spinning, Siro spinning, Compact spinning, Compact-Siro spinning system. It is observed that compact yarn and siro yarn are stronger and less hairy due to the improved fibre binding, and have better yarn elongation, yarn irregularity and IPI values compared with conventional ring yarns. Compact-Siro yarn combines the benefits of both the systems. Keywords: Bamboo, Compact, Polyester, Ring, Siro, Compact-Siro yarn. 1. Introduction Blending is the process of combining different fibres together intimately to achieve a desired product characteristics. Blends can influence colouring, strength, softness, absorbency, ease of washing, resistance to wrinkling, ease of spinning, cost, etc. Natural fibres and their blends bear valuable properties. At present there are various products made of bamboo Fibres work on characteristics by better provide absorb-

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tion and desorption of moisture, no irritation, antibacterial, anti-allergic, protection against the harmful UV rays and other valuable properties. Bamboo and polyester can be blended to get desirable combination of properties in the end product, by random mixing of staple fibres is the most common practice. Ring spun yarns made from 50/50 cotton/bamboo concluded that hairiness of bamboo yarns is much lower than that of equivalent cotton yarns. The tenacity of yarns spun from 50/50 cotton/ bamboo blended spun yarns tenacity is lower and yarn unevenness is higher than that of 100% cotton and bamboo [1]. The effect of blend ratio on with compare with 100% cotton yarn quality characteristics of bamboo/cotton blended ring spun yarns of linear density concluded that increase in ratio of bamboo/cotton blended yarn has a significant influence on the overall quality of yarn in terms of imperfection and mechanical properties such as strength and elongation, linear density of yarns[2].It is found that functional properties of bamboo blended knitted apparel fabrics concluded that bamboo content of yarn increases the yarn hairiness and unevenness increase along with a decrease tenacity during spinning of polyester/bamboo blended yarn with appropriate drafting system in order achieve proper integration of fibers in yarn and to achieve better yarn properties[3]. Comfort is one of the most important aspects of fabrics. Yarns made of staple fibres have the additional complexity of the discontinuities at the fibre ends and the difference in structures due to the difference in spinning technologies. Different spinning technologies such as a ring, compact and Siro spinning have potential for higher

COVER STORY productivity and also influence the yarn characteristics significantly. Yarn properties are having a strong correlation with fabric properties. Hence, yarn manufactured on different spinning technologies are exhibiting variable effects in fabric characteristic. Hence it is worth to study the effect of different spinning technologies on characteristics of yarn. This investigation is helpful for the spinner as well as a weaver to engineer their products as per the consumer demand. 2. Materials and Method In this study Bamboo and polyester Fibres of following specification were used for making yarns. Bamboo Fibresstaple length: - 38 mm, denier: - 1.2 PolyesterFibresstaple length: - 44 mm, denier: - 1.4. The 40s Ne bamboo-polyester blended spun yarns with ratio 35:65 were manufactured on four different spinning systems viz. Ring spinning, Siro spinning, Compact spinning, Compact-Siro spinning system. The yarn samples were characterized for the linear density of yarn, single yarn strength & elongation, count strength product, evenness & imperfection, hairiness & wicking behaviour. The results obtained were analyzed by one-way analysis of variance. Yarn manufacturing (spinning) parameters are given in table 1.

Lea Strength (CSP)

3881.77

3999.38

3978.82

4122.51

Unevenness (CV %)

16.85

15.50

15.01

14.31

Thin (-50%)

131.5

122.5

81.6

30.8

Thick (+50%)

856.0

563.1

519.1

517.2

Neps (200%)

382.5

179.0

161.3

136.6

226.8

Hairiness (S3)

32.8

31.5

6.9

5 min 2.6

2.2

2.4

2.1

Wicking 10 min 3.7

3.5

3.4

Wicking 15 min 4.2

3.8

3.6

Wicking 20 min 4.7

4.4

4.2

Wicking

3.1 Yarn Count CV (%) The count CV% value which directly relates the presence of long term irregularity. The statistical analysis shows that there is no significant difference in the counts spun on various spinning system, compact siro spun yarn exhibits lower count CV% value followed by siro, compact and ring yarn respectively [8]. 3.2 Yarn Tensile Properties Effect of spinning technology on tenacity and elongation of Bamboo-Polyester blended yarn is shown in figure 1.

Table 1 Yarn Manufacturing (Spinning) Parameters Parameter

Ring Yarn

Siro Yarn

Compact Yarns

Compact Siro Yarn

Hank feed (Ne)

1.0s

TPI

19.05

3.0

Figure1 Yarn Strength and Elongation Figure 2 Lea Strength

Total Draft

Spacer (mm)

Traveller Number

3/0

Spindle Speed (rpm)

15000

It is observed that Compact-Siro yarn shows highest amongst all the yarns followed by Compact, Siro and Ring respectively. Ring yarn is shows lowest strength. However, ring yarn shows the highest elongation at break.In ring spinning first the size of the roving is reduced to the desired yarn count by drafting. At the same time the roving twist is removed to a large extent and cohesion within the fibres is mainly lost. Thus the individual fibres lie relatively far apart from each other when they reach the delivery clamping line. This leads to increased elongation and decreased strength.Compact-Siro yarn combines the benefits of both the systems giving stronger yarn with slightly less elongation [6, 7].

3. Results and Discussion The results obtained on various tests were statically analyzed which are discussed as follows. Yarn Characteristics

The results obtained on different tests have been summarized the table 2 Parameters

Ring

Compact

Siro

CompactSiro

Count (Ne)

40.4

40.555

40.651

40.71

Count CV (%)

3.74

3.36

3.13

1.91

Tenacity (gm/tex)

19.67

22.20

23.36

26.14

Elongation (%)

12.0

9.3

8.3

7.7

Lea Strength Lea strength of Bamboo-Polyester blended yarn was determined in terms of count strength product. The effect of spinning technology on lea strength of yarn is shown in figure 2. It is observed that there is significant effect of spinning

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COVER STORY technology on lea strength of yarn which is shown in figure 2. It can be seen from above figure that, lea strength of Compact-Siro yarn is highest amongst all the yarns followed by Compact, Siro and Ring respectively. Ring yarn is showing lowest lea strength amongst rest of the samples. It is also observed that there is correlation between single fibre and lea strength [5, 15]. 3.3 Yarn Unevenness, Imperfections and Hairiness Effect of spinning technology on unevenness and imperfections of Bamboo-Polyester blended yarn is shown in figure 3 and figure 4 respectively. There is significant effect of spinning technology on yarn evenness and the imperfections.It can be seen from the fig 3 that CVm% is less in Compact-Siro spun yarn followed by Compact, Siro and ring yarn.The same trend is also observed for imperfections.

Figure 5 Hairiness Yarn hairiness was calculated in terms of S3 value. S3 value indicates the sum of lengths of hairs longer than 3mm. The effect of spinning technology on hairiness of Bamboo-Polyester blended yarn is shown in figure 5. There is a significant effect of spinning technology on yarn hairiness. It is observed that hairiness of Compact-Siro yarn is lowermost with S3 value 6.9 followed by Compact, Siro and Ring yarn structure. The main reason for this could be attributed to the fact that two roving strands are separately drafted and twisted to a certain extent before uniting, which greatly limits the extent of protruding fibers. Hence it is showing less hairiness than ring spun yarn. Cross-section of CompactSiro spun yarn is smoother and closer to being circular which is beneficial for spun yarn qualities, especially for improving the yarn evenness and hairiness [6]. 3.4 Yarn Wicking The wickability of yarn manufactured on different spinning systems was determined in terms of rise of wicking solution with respect to time which is shown in figure 6.

In ring spinning, the spinning triangle is the most troublesome and weakest zone in the yarn formation process in ring spinning as it increases end breakage, fiber loss and yarn hairiness. Hence ring spun yarn shows high values of CVm% and imperfections. In compact spinning the negative influence of the spinning triangle is minimized which reduces affects which reduces the unevenness and imperfections. In case of Siro yarn there are better chances of readjustment of fibers due to doubling between the fleeces within the yarn leading to better evenness and reduced imperfections. Compact- Siro yarn combines the advantages of both Compact and Siro spinning system showing greater yarn evenness and lesser imperfections [4,5,6]. Yarn Hairiness

Figure 6 Wicking Height (Yarn) There is a significant effect of spinning technology on yarn wicking. It can be seen that, wickability of Compact-Siro yarn is lowermost followed by Compact, Siro and Ring. As compared to Compact, Siro or Compact-Siro yarn, ring yarn has open packing. Open packing forms micro capillaries which are responsible for wicking action hence ring yarn shows high wickability. Compact-Siro yarn has even more close packing than Siro yarn resulting lower wicking ability [6, 7, 8]. 4. Conclusion Compact yarn and Siro yarn are claimed to be stronger and less hairy due to the improved fibre binding, and have better yarn in strength & elongation, yarn irregularity and IPI values compared with conventional ring yarns.In case of compact yarn, the spinning triangle is very small which leads to better twisting of edge fibres, resulting inthe higher number of fibres in yarn cross section. As a number of fibres in yarn cross-section increases, there is an increase in load bearing component in yarn. In

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COVER STORY Siro yarn, the majority of the fibres get trapped in the structure so as to increase inter-fibre cohesion in the yarn, thus making the yarn withstand higher breaking forces. Compact-Siro yarn combines the benefits of both the systems. It is possible to use low quality fibres while maintaining yarn strength equal to the conventional ring spun yarn with the same twist level. 5. References 1. Majumdar A., &Mukhopadhyay S., “Properties of ring-spun yarns made from cotton and regenerated bamboo fibres”, IJFTR, Vol. 36, No.1, March 2011, P. 18-23. 2. Prakash C., Ramakrishnan G., & Koushik C., “Effect of Blend Ratio on the Quality Characteristics of Bamboo/Cotton Blended Ring Spun Yarn”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 19, No. 6, 2011, P. 38-40. 3. Sudipta S mahish, A K patra and Rashami Thakur, Functional properties of bamboo/polyester blended knitted fabrics, IJFTR, Vol 37, Sept 2012, pp.231-237.

6. Iqbal SMF, “Influence of yarn structure produced in different spinning systems on the properties of yarn”, IJAR, Vol.4, No.4, 2018, P.172-176. 7. Cheng K.P.S, Yuen C.H., “Siro And Two-Fold Yarns”, Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 1, No.1, 1997, P.64-70,https:// doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-01-01-1997-B008. 8. Sharma I. C., Pandey A., Janveja A., Sharma N., “Comparison of Properties of Siro spun and conventional two fold yarns and of their fabrics”,Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol. 11, 1986, P.15-18. 9. Advantages of bamboo yarn and bamboo fabric, www.bambrotex. com, (Accessed on 01/01/2017). 10.Stalder H. and Rusch A., “Successful compact spinning process”, Intl. Textile Bulletin., Vol. 48, No.1,2002, P 42-43. 11.Stalder H., “A new spinning process – ComforSpin”, Melliand Textilber., Vol.80, No.3, 2000, P.133-135. 12. EliTe CompactSet V5, Suessen brochure leaflets, https://www. suessen.com. 13.Artzt P., “The effect of different spinning processes on yarns”, ITB, Vol.49, 2003, P. 40-43.

4. Barodia H. D. and Khare A.R., “Some variations in Siro spinning”, The Indian Textile Journal, May 2012 http://www.indiantextilejournal. com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4489

14.Sundaresan S., Balu R., & Mohanraj R., “Effect of Strand spacing of SIRO Compact yarn on fabric properties”, Vol. 2, No. 4, 2016, P. 172-179.

5. Xuzhong Su, WeidongGao, Xinjin Liu, ChunpingXie, BojunXu, “Research on the Compact-Siro Spun Yarn Structure”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 3, 2015, P.54-57.

15. Long Li & Hongqin Yan, “Tensile Properties of Regenerated Bamboo Yarn” Fibres& Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 20, No. 1, 2012, P.18-23.

S. S. Lavate, P. V. Kadole, M.B. Bhongle

S. S. Society’s Lavate,Textile P. V. Kadole, M.B. Bhongle D.K.T.E. and Engineering Institute D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute

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EVENNESS TESTER

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SURAT REPORT

THE STATE GOVT. TO LAUNCH NEW TEXTILE POLICY BEFORE DIWALI The government of Gujarat plans to launch it’s new textile policy in October-2018. The present textile policy, announced in 2012, will expire this September. The new policy is expected to dole out several incentives, including cheap power, to attract industries to the state. Recently, state industries commissioner Mamta Verma visited Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), in Surat to hold discussions on the new textile policy. Textile entrepreneurs have made a representation that the new textile policy should address the issues of power tariff, capital subsidy, interest subsidy and investment on top priority. Sourses said, A task force has been formed to study incentives offered under the textile polices of other states. The task force is expected to submit its final report and proposed draft policy soon. The new policy envisages a special thrust on garments and technical textiles. There will be a focus on establishing textiles parks within GIDC estates and in other parts of the state. The state government, through the new policy, aims to attract Rs 1 lakh crore in investment and create 10 lakh jobs in the textile industry over the next five years. The state recently declared it would reimburse state goods and services tax (SGST) to the textile industry. The reimbursement will be given in lieu of sops given to the sector under the earlier value added tax (VAT) regime. Meanwhile, it has been approved, in principle, that all the schemes under the textile policy of 2012 will be continued in the new policy as well.

FANCY AND VISCOSE YARN GLITTERS IN “YARN EXPO-2018” The articles of fancy yarn made it’s place in the “Yarn Expo-2018” organised by The Southern Gujarat chamber of commerce ans industry(SGCCI) here in August first week. A collection of fancy yarn, lycra based yarn, mix coir yarn and a range of viscose yarn remained center of attraction. The three day’s event witnessed more than 10 thousand visitors. The chairman of GFRRC of SGCCI, Girdhar Gopal Mundra said, about 70 leading yarn manufacturers in the country have participated in the event. This time various range of fancy and viscose yarn glitters in the B2B event. The viscose auto crometic yarn, tinsell yarn, model blend, linen blend, polyester corn fibre and yarn collection were in demand. The fancy yarn gives a fancy touch to the fabrics to a broad range of end uses. There is a significant demand for the fancy yarn in the ladies and children

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Outerwear. After inauguration of the event, Union textile minister, Smriti Irani said, It’s time to show to the world the capacity of Indian textile industry. The government has taken many proactive measures for the industry and now it’s time to work and prove that all our efforts in conjunction with the industry is going to pay off to the nation as a whole. The government has also appointed group of secretaries for transforming India as the textile machinery manufacturing hub. The texctile enterpreniour of the city praised her for taking a lead role in resolving the input tax credit (ITC) issue for the powerloom weaving sector, pending since last year.

INDIA ITME SOCIETY TO ORGANISE TEXTILE EXHIBITION GTTES-2019 The Indian Textile Machinery Exhibition(ITME) Society will organise the 2nd global textile technology and engineering show GTTES in January-2019 in Mumbai. GTTES is an exclusive show highlighting strengths of Asian market and manufacturers of textile machineries, spare parts, accessories and allied services across globe having base in Asia. The event will focus on weaving, knitting, printing, garmenting, embroidery and technical textiles. In a programme held here in last week, the past chairman of India ITME society, Rajnikant Bachkaniwala said, this event is a platform for meeting up with domestic requirement with the make in india initiative for encouraging and facilitating the textile & textile engineering sector. As Surat is a hub of power loom units, we have invited the city enterpreniours for GTTES. In order to strengthen and promote the powerloom and spinning industry, GTTES has specialised pavilion for this chapter. The GTTES is a growth catalyst and optimum business platform with numerous business leads, new customers offering best sourcing solution to India’s surging demand for textile machinery. The annual production capacity of indian textile machinery manufactuters is about 12,000 crore, and their selling is about 8,000 crore. The most significant change in Indian textiles industry has been the advent of man made fibres (MMF). Except spinning, majority of the textile and apparel machinery demand of India is being catered by imports. Because of high speed, better technology the domestic fabrics manufacturers imports textile machinery from Germany, Italy, Japan, Korea and china. The indian machinery producers now focusing on technology innovation and eyes on forth generation machineries. After several presentation, the government is changing it’s policies. India is world’s largest textile

SURAT REPORT market and thus a biggest market for textile machinery as well. Through GTTES 2019, India ITME Society will present an exclusive show to capture the World’s attention on strengths & opportunities of Global Textile Industry, with special focus on spinning, weaving, processing, knitting, embroidery, garmenting and more.

SURAT ONLINE ASSOCIATION TO BRIDGE TEXTILE MANUFACTUTERS AND CUSTOMERS

A group of textile businessman of Surat has formed an online association to bridge textile manufactutersdealers and customers. The group head Dhaval Shah said, this platform will provide an opportunity to find best product from registered fabrics dealers. Only after the scrutiny of all the data i.e. manufacturer’s-dealer’s details, turnover, fabrics quality, exeperince; the association registerd the firm. The suratonlineassociation.in will take responsibilty to solve the complaints of costomers. Upto mid August, Surat online association have already received registration of 105 members.

YARN REPORT

FIBRE AND YARN EXPORT ROBUST IN JUNE ON LOW BASE In June shipment of fibre, spun and filament yarn shipment continued to remain robust on the low base. In June 2017, textiles exports had declined 30% in volume and 17% in value under the adverse impact of demonetisation. Further, exports were also impeded by the newly launched GST regime in July. Cotton export rebounds in June, exceed previous year’s volume Cotton exports rebounded in June compared to the shipment in previous month and surged 103% year on year with shipment of 6 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 2.9 lakh bales exported in June 2017. China reemerged as the largest importer of Indian cotton in June, followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan. Vietnam was the fourth largest importer.

The unit prices realisation averaged INR122 per kg or US cents 83.17 per pound. This compared to domestic spot prices were lower by about US cents 4 and US cents 14 compared with global spot benchmark, the Cotlook ‘A’ index for the month. While the global benchmark has risen in June from its previous month’s level, export FOB value was also in line with the change

During the first nine months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, shipment aggregated 8.04 million bales as against 6.2 million bales in the corresponding months of previous marketing year. The price realization av-eraged INR116 a kg or US cents 82.33 per pound during the season as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 92.89 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 81.68 per pound. 81.86 per pound, the prevailing price, in terms of Cotlook A index, averaged US cents 96.67 per pound. Cotton yarn export to China increases three folds Spun yarns shipment totaled 142 million kg (up 73%) worth US$450 million (up 73%) implying an average unit value realization of US$3.16 per kg, slightly up by 2 cents compared to last year. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened to INR66.72 this June which augured well for exports. China was the largest buy-er of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.

Cotton yarn export was at 117 million kg worth US$375 million (INR2,500 crore). 75% above previous year’s level. 81 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$3.21 a kg, same as in previous month and down US cent 1 from a year ago. China continued doubling its import of cotton yarn

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August 2018

YARN REPORT from India in volume and value terms. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both rising 40% over the year, and appear to be picking up. In May it had clocked a growth of just 15%. South Korea and Egypt were the other major importers, with former doubling their imports from India and latter slowing down considerably. South Korea was the third largest destina-tion. Five countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this June as they had imported yarn worth US$0.20 million last June. However, they were replaced by 15 other countries which imported yarn worth US$2.49 million. Vietnam, Bulgaria, Colombia and USA were among (other than top five) the fastest importers of cotton yarn in June while Paraguay, Denmark, Brazil, Slovenia and United Arab Emirates significantly reduced their im-ports compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports continued to increased sharply both in volume and value in June. MMF yarn exports comprised 4.6 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.8 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.7 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 64% in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 49% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were up 74%. Polyester spun yarns worth US$11.5 million were exported to 49 countries at average unit price of US$2.49

a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and USA. Unit price real-ization was up both compared to last month and also from last year. Viscose yarn worth US$9.1 million or INR61 crore was exported at an average price of US$3.22 per kg. Iran was the top importer worth US$2.18 million, followed by Bangladesh and Belgium. Turkey was the fifth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month. Blended spun yarns worth US$50 million were exported in June, up 65% YoY in value terms. During the month, 9.8 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$27 million while 4.7 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$14 million Bangladesh. Colombia and Egypt, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Pakistan. Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 67 million kg, up 40% YoY valued at US$124 million.

Nitin Madkaikar Textile Beacon Global Info Services COURTESY: TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN JUNE Cotton In India, the increase in cotton prices slowed down in July as the marketing year approaches the end. Spot prices were up INR400-1,950 per candy month on month across all varieties with more sharper increase for finer cotton. Shankar-6 cotton was traded at INR46,775 per candy on the spot market, up INR1,050 from last month. The slower rise is attributed to sluggish global cues, and end of the season where arrivals were negligible. US cotton futures m o v e d sideways in July giving back and regaining previous losses as the weather in Texas remained dry. Weaker than expected export sales caused prices to trade lower earlier. USDA showed further deterioration in the crops in its weekly updates, and predicted that conditions could

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deteriorate further. US crop conditions were fading due to the extreme Texas weather and pockets of problems in other states. Crop conditions were good in the rest of the Southeast as these areas have been a little dryer. The most active cotton contract on ICE Futures US, the second-month December contract, settled down US cents 1 on the month at US cents 86.93 per pound. The near month, October was US cents 1.23 lower at US cents 87.84 per pound. In China, spot cotton markets saw some improvement amid drying climatic conditions. The trade war has been in focus with players expecting rise in import prices also due to weakening Yuan. Hand-picked grade-2128 were quoted at 15.60-15.75 Yuan a kg (US cents 105-106 per pound). The China Cotton Index edged down 186 Yuan to average 16,198 a ton (US cents 108 a pound) for July. Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index also lost US cent 0.91 on the month to average US cents 96.50 per pound despite some recovery seen late in the month. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn market atmosphere in China continued to be on wait and watch stance and prices generally moderated across specs. Transactions were mainly done for 21s and 32s while demand was sound for 45s yarn.

YARN REPORT Producers still had high inventory at mills due to past high operating rates. In Jiangsu Shengze, 32s cotton yarn prices averaged 24.05 Yuan a kg (US$3.58 a kg) while 40s were at 25.10 Yuan a kg (US$3.74 a kg) both down US cents 15-16, also due to weak currency. In India, cotton yarn prices gained up in line with recent rise in cotton prices, both in domestic and global markets. In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting gained INR5.25 at INR220 a kg (US$3.17, up US cents 4) in Ludhiana. [For detailed report, write to us at sales@textilebeacon.com or call on 9819915227] Polyester chain pricing

expansions in capacities. Export activity was curtailed by recent losses in crude oil prices, which dampened buying appetite leading buyers to enquire only about smaller volume parcels with lower buying indications. PSF makers held offers stable in Zhejiang while markets in Shandong and Hebei also held higher, but weak currency saw quotes down from June. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were down US cents 4 at US$1.29-1.35 a kg, while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down in the range of US$1.29-1.33 a kg. In India, PSF prices were cut and trading could not resume normalcy during the month. Prices averaged at INR93.75 a kg for 1.4 (US$1.36 a kg, down US cents 3), also due to weak INR. Polyester spun yarn prices moved down slightly in China in July although there was firmness in PSF markets. Transactions in terminal markets were moderate. Yarn makers and traders held firm wait-and-see stance and had low interest in cutting prices further due to weak adjustment in future and orders intake from downstream fabric producers. 32s polyester yarn offers were at 14.19 Yuan a kg (US$2.11 a kg) while 60s were flat at 16.40 Yuan a kg (US$2.44 a kg). In India, polyester yarn prices generally rolled over given stable demand in domestic as well as export markets. 30s polyester knit yarn prices were flat at INR132 a kg (US$$1.92 a kg, down US cents 2 due to weak INR) in Ludhiana.

Polyester staple fibre prices were up in China in July and flat in India, but weak currencies against the US$ pegged values down in US$ terms. In China, offers were up in Jiangsu & Zhejiang and Fujian markets in line with rising cost of PTA. Sellers were unwilling to reduce prices as domestic demand remained relatively healthy while inventory levels were moderately low despite recent

Upstream, PTA prices rose 1% in Asia while MEG was slightly higher in July. PTA markers averaged US$847.75 a ton CFR China while offer from Taiwan/Korea were at US$862.75 a ton, both up US$7-12 on the month. MEG CFR China markers averaged US$901.50 a ton and CFR South East Asia to US$889 a ton, up US$2.50 month on month.

ECONOMY FOCUS

RISKS TO MACROECONOMIC STABILITY FROM TRADE WAR Though the RBI maintained its growth projection for FY19 at 7.4%, it has alluded to risks on account of protectionist measures and further escalation in trade tensions in its policy statement. There are two dimensions to the risks to macroeconomic stability from trade tensions. One dimension, of course is that if the global economy slows down, it could result in contraction in global trade and hit our export volumes. The second dimension is that of the policy response of central banks globally to counter the effect of trade war i.e. the risk of trade war eventually turning into a currency war. For example, the PBoC has allowed the Yuan to depreciate to mitigate the effect of tariffs imposed by the US. This has resulted in the Rupee strengthening by almost 6% on a relative basis against the Yuan since May. The relative Rupee strength not only

makes our exports uncompetitive in the global market but also impinges on our domestic industry on account of import substitution as Chinese imports become cheaper. In the most recent phase of concerted global growth, our export growth has been tepid. While a part of it can be attributed to demonetization and GST implementation induced challenges, the fact that export growth is still muted points to the fact that Rupee overvaluation has also had a role to play. The elasticity of our exports to the Rupee has increased. The sectors worst affected by Rupee overvaluation would be the ones that export undifferentiated goods as these goods can be easily substituted by exports from other countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Rupee overvaluation is therefore a significant concern as exports account for

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August 2018

ECONOMY FOCUS roughly 20% of our GDP. The RBI therefore is walking a very tight rope, as it has to strike a delicate balance between inflationary consequences of Rupee depreciation and risks to export growth and domestic industry on account of Rupee overvaluation. So far, the RBI seems more concerned about Rupee depreciation as is evident from aggressive intervention around the 69 mark. The RBI would certainly not want a repeat of a 2013 like situation when there was extreme pessimism that resulted in a speculative run on the currency. Runaway depreciation of the Rupee in the lead up to the general election can trigger a confidence crisis and jeopardize the chances of the incumbent government. The aggressive intervention strategy has worked so far and has kept the speculators at bay. With the US mid term elections approaching, it is unlikely that there would be any softening of protectionist rhetoric

from the Oval office. With China too pledging to reply in kind, there does not seem to be any immediate end to the tensions. The Rupee is therefore likely to closely track the Chinese Yuan and the spread between the offshore CNH and onshore CNY. The RBI is likely to intervene less aggressively if the Yuan and other EM currencies continue to depreciate. The endeavor of the RBI would be to manage the real effective exchange rate of the Rupee (REER), preventing extreme overvaluation and to contain volatility by smoothening the pace of Rupee depreciation. The downside in USDINR looks limited as of now (unless there is a massive global unwinding of USD longs) as the RBI would be keen to replenish its lost Reserves on every dip. 68.10-68.20 zone is expected to be a strong support for USDINR. It would not be a surprise if 7 on the Yuan is seen which in turn could trigger a break of 69.20 levels on the way to 70.

OUTLOOK Indian Textile industry is a complex entity. In no country in the world the textile industry spans so deep and varietal be across fibres or across value chain of the industry or in terms of organization of production. May be due to this phenomenon, India has a dedicated Ministry for Textiles. The industry has its presence in cotton, silk, Manmade fibre, Jute, wool and in Value chain, Ginning, Spinning, weaving, Processing and Garmenting besides technical textiles. To add to this matrix, the value chain/fibre components are present both in Organised and decentralized sector and almost all the sectoral components cater to both domestic and international markets. As per the statistics, the decentralized sector(weaving) contribute close to 96 percent of cloth production in the country and only the rest is by organized mill sector. Enough has been discussed, deliberated on this state of affairs in various forums-academic, industry and Government missionary alike that had once resulted in favourable policy framework to fillip decentralized production mode. It is said the decentralized weaving production mode is with benefits of lower cost of production, faster product mix changes, shorter working capital cycle, varietal and lower quantum of production to cater to the ever changing marketing trends, benefits of being MSME units like employment generation for unorganized labour, industry spread and so on. But has problems like non-standardized products, quality issues, not able to catering flawless long length of cloth to the subsequent links in the value chain, wet processing and Garmenting, so also the same for wet processing in the decentralized sector. The varietal production in low quantum across the fibres is n fact a USP of Indian textile industry and there are export consignments with less than INR One Lakh. But in the era of Garmenting for mass

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consumption both in national and international markets, this could be a bane. As Consumerism is taking centre stage post industrialization era, today’s consumer orientation on textiles are value for money, appeal and in tune with market trends and is least on source of material. As most of the textiles consumption of men, women and children are in the form garments- both apparel and non apparel, the consumer is not vary of source of cloth production- whether Organised or Decentralised sector and thus it is the time to strengthen the links in the Textile Value Chain. The policy framework should orient the decentralized sector units (of MSME) to 1) Consolidate the capacity – capacity augmentation within the unit 2) Quality orientation 3) better professionalism and managerial inputs to face nuances of national and international markets. The decentralized sector which is clothing the nation should unite and come out as a combined force and should take Indian Textile Industry to the next level “If you want to walk fast go alone. If you want to go far walk together”

RM. Sankar

Assistant Director ATIRA

EVENT UPDATE

INDIA’S LARGEST APPAREL TRADE SHOW INAUGURATED BY KISHORE BIYANI CMAI’S 67th NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR TO CONTINUE UP TO 19th JULY 2018 FIRST TIME IN HISTORY, 1087 BRANDS, 986 STALLS,916 EXHIBITORS TO SHOWCASE THEIR LATEST FESTIVE COLLECTIONS The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organized “India’s Largest Apparel Trade Show – The 67th National Garment Fair” from 16TH July to 19th July 2018 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai. The Fair was inaugurated on 16th July 2018 by Chief Guest Kishore Biyani, Group CEO –Future Group.

with Bombay Exhibition Centre. Indian Apparel Market According to Mr. Rahul Mehta, President –CMAI, India’s domestic apparel market was estimated at US$ 67 billion in 2017 which had grown at a CAGR of 10% since 2005. Indian domestic market had performed better than the largest consumption regions like US, EU and Japan, where depressed economic conditions led to lower demand and growth.Due to presence of strong fundamentals, the domestic apparel market size of India was expected to grow at 11-12% CAGR and reach about US$ 160 billion by 2025.

*Others include active wear, dresses, school uniform

Mr. Rahul Mehta, President, The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (Ex-Chairman, International Apparel Federation), stated that this B2B Fair was spread over Approx. 6,50,000 Square Feet, covering all the Halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. There were916 Exhibitors in 986 Stalls displaying 1087 Brands. This was India’s Largest Ever Garment Fair held so far. The Fair displayed leading Brands in Men’s wear, Women’s wear, Kid’s wear and Accessories.CMAI had also published the ‘Show Directory’, popularly known as the Fair Guide. 67thNational Garment Fair would be spread over 4 Days instead of the normal 3 Days Fair. The Fair timing would be from 10 AM to 9 PM. For the first time, the July Edition of the National Garment Fair has been a ‘No Decoration Fair’. This B2B Fair would be open only to Trade Visitors & Garment Retailers. The Business Networking Sessions between the Exhibitors and Agents & Distributors, High Street Retailers, National Chain Stores & E-Commerce Companieswouldalso continue this year. This year CMAI is also Celebrating 25 years of Association

The domestic market size is dominated by Ready-ToWear category, market size ~US$ 56 billion, with 84% share which is further growing at a CAGR of 10-11%. The Ready-To-Stitch market is also gaining momentum as more and more men who have been buying premium or luxury readymade clothing brands want to wear a shirt or a trouser that fits them perfectly. The Ready-To-Stitch market currently at US$ 11 billion is expected to grow at a CAGR of 7% and reach about US$ 20 billion in 2025. Recent Plastic Ban in Maharashtra On the recent Plastic Ban announced by the Govt Of Maharashtra, Mr. Mehta welcomed the Clarification issued by the Environment Department allowing the use of PP Bags for wrapping the Garments at the Manufacturing Stage under a mechanism for the collection of the used PP Bags through a buy-back mechanism and ensure the recycling and final disposal of the collected PP Bags. Mr. Mehta once again reiterated CMAI’s commitment, as a responsible organization, to protect the environment and assured that their Members will work hand in hand with the State Govt& Local Authorities and ensure that all used PP/Plastic Bags are responsibly recycled and disposed off. Decline in Garment Exports Mr. Premal Udani, Chairman- Board of Trustees of CMAI stated that Apparel Exports had taken a beating

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August 2018

EVENT UPDATE from October 2017 onwards. The introduction of GST had resulted in non-refund of several embedded taxes. Consequently apparel exports for the financial year 201718 declined by 4% to USD 16.7 billion from 17.38 billion in the previous year.

for Investments. Figure 1: Domestic Market Segmentation

The downturn continues in FY 2018-19 with a month on month decline of 10%. The Government iseized of the matter and has assured that embedded taxes will be refunded through the drawback route. CMAI’s First Apparel Training Center at Asmeeta Texpa, Bhiwandi CMAI is setting up their First Apparel Training Centre, spread over 8,000 sq. feet, at Asmeeta Texpa, Kalyan Bhiwandi Industrial Area. The Centre shall be operational by the end of this year. This full-fledged Training Centre shall offer Courses for Sewing Machine Operators - Basic & Advanced, Supervisors, Quality Checkers & Finishers & Packers and will train up to 4,000 Trainees per year. A Tripartite Memorandum Of Understanding between Govt. of Gujarat, GIDC and CMAI was signedon 10th July 2018 where CMAI shall disseminate information amongst its Members promoting Gujarat as a Destination

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August 2018

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EVENT UPDATE

SOURCE INDIA 2018 – INDIA’S PREMIER REVERSE BUYER SELLER MEET Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India & The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) announce Source India 2018 – the 2nd edition of India’s largest Sourcing Show for Textiles To continue the impressive growth story of exports of Man Made Fibre and blended textiles from India, the Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council and the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, today announced the 2nd Edition of India’s Largest Global Buyer Seller Meet, Source India 2018 in Surat. Source India 2018 will be held in Surat from 21st to 23rd September 2018. It will be the largest sourcing show for international buyers who are looking to source synthetic and blended textiles from India. India currently ranks among the top 3 suppliers of these textiles worldwide. SRTEPC will assemble an array of more than 200 International Importers from more than 40 countries to transact business with more than 200 exporters in this sector. Source India 2018 is a focused B2B show covering the entire value chain in Man-made Fibre Textile products and its blends. Fabrics (that include Suiting, Shirting, Women’s Wear), Yarn, Fibre, Made-ups, Home Textiles and Technical Textiles will be showcased by the leading exporters during the event. The Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet will provide a boost to the Government’s ‘Make in India’ campaign in India’s second largest employment generating industry. The Second edition of India’s largest Sourcing Show for Man-made Fibre Textile products will be spread over 10,000 sq m of air-conditioned space. More than 200 Foreign Buyers are expected from 40 countries in addition to more than 5000 walk in Trade Visitors including Domestic Buyers, Representatives of Indian and International Buying Houses, Procurement Managers from Large Retail Brands, Sourcing Agents, CEO’s, Industry Heads and Business Leaders. Council will be creating a Business Lounge for one to one meetings with the International Buyers. Informal networking dinners will be organized for the Exhibitors to develop relations with the invited International Buyers. The Council will be setting up a Theme Pavilion that will showcase fashion trends for the next SpringSummer and Autumn-Winter period. Road Shows are being conducted by the Council at the leading trade associations in Egypt, Morocco, Turkey, Moldova, Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Colombia and UAE. Presentations will be made to the leading textile importers in these counties. Invitations will be sent to genuine buyers, duly verified through an

elaborate selection process for their quality and interest to do business with Indian Exporters. Also, invitations will be sent to overseas buyers based on import data of these countries. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC said “It is a matter of pride that India is the 2nd largest manufacturer and 6th largest exporter of Man-made Fibre Textiles in the world. Speaking from Surat the Chairman said that “I take this opportunity to thank Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Honorable Union Minister of Textiles and her entire team for their relentless support and initiatives to benefit the Indian Textile Industry and all the stakeholders. The city of Surat is the biggest hub of MMFT in the country, contributing 40% of the production of synthetic & rayon textile products that India manufactures. I am very confident that this unique business platform of ‘Source India 2018’ will result in many productive and long term business deals between Indian Exporters and International Importers of Man-made Fibre Textile products and its blends. It is my privilege to set the ball of ‘Incredible Textiles of India’ by launching this second edition of our flagship event that showcases the endless possibilities of Indian Man-made Fibre Textile products to the world”. Speaking from Mumbai, head office of SRTEPC, Vice Chairman, Shri Ronak Rughani said that “We at SRTEPC are very enthusiastic about the event and look forward to welcoming and hosting more than 200 International Buyers, selected with great care to ensure that we create an environment for maximum business deals to be transacted during Source India 2018. He further elaborated “We are creating an exclusive ‘Business Lounge’ for strategic one to one interactions between our member exhibitors and the invited buyers. We are also organizing a couple of informal ‘Networking Dinners’ to provide an opportunity for the participants to get to know each other and build long term business relationships”.

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August 2018

EVENT UPDATE Immediate Past Chairman and Convener, Shri Anil Rajvanshi said “It is SRTEPC’s endeavor to partner the Govt. of India in its efforts to promote the Indian Textile Industry. As Facilitators of the Indian Man-made Fibre Textile Industry it is the Council’s objective to prepare our Industry to ride the waves of change occurring in the Global Textile Industry. The developments are happy tidings for

the Man-made Fibre Textile Industry and its blends as more than 70% of the textile used in the world is synthetic and the trend is only increasing. Organizing ‘Source India 2018’ is a giant step towards promotion of Indian Textile products to all corners of the world. Through our first edition of the Reverse Buyer Seller Meet we have announced the establishment of a truly global show in Textiles in India. Our second edition will serve to reinforce our objective of India being the ‘Go To’ destination for International Buyers and Buying Houses to source their requirements of Man-made Fibre Textile Products and its blends”.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

FOCUS INCUBATION CENTRE (FIC) INAUGURATED BY MINISTER A STEP TOWARD INNOVATION BY NITRA

Innovation is the key to success, sustenance, and growth in today’s highly competitive customer driven market place. There is no denialthe fact that today every customer is demanding as well as discerning. This situation is prevailing in all the industrial sectors including the Textile & Clothing (T&A) sector. As a result of this textile industry is also resorting to new innovation every day where, among other things, Technical Textile plays a key role. Innovations no doubt speed-up developments but in order to achieve innovation proper fiscal measures, strategic changes and need-based R&D must play a big role. R&D, in particular, helps the entrepreneurs in optimizing cost of production, improving quality, and leading production to new innovative and value addeditems so that the individual company and the industry, as a whole, can sustain fierce competition in the market. The Focus Incubation Centre (FIC) at NITRA was inaugurated on 27th July, ’18 by the Hon’ble Union Minister of State for Textiles, Sh. Ajay Tamta in presence

of Sh. Sanjay Kumar Jain, MD, TT Ltd. & Chairman, NITRA and its Past Chairmen, Sh. R. K. Jain, CMD, Pasupati Spg. & Wvg. Mills Ltd. and Sh. R. L. Nolkha, Chairman, Nitin Spinners Ltd. Also present on the occasion were Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA and many eminent industrialists. In his welcome address Chairman NITRA, Mr. Jain said that this was a move to promote innovation and startups in the textile arena by providing the right facilities and support to budding entrepreneurs of the industry. He also added that NITRA along with CITI is coming out with a Contest to identify bright and innovative ideas, and help such ideas be converted into commercial utility. NITRA, India’s premier Textile Research Association (TRA) since its inception in 1974 has been continuously helping the Indian T&C industry achieve innovation through its long research and development experience covering almost every aspect of textile and apparel industry. A rich portfolio of 15 patents (awarded and filed) and successful completion of more than 200 need-based research projects to support the industry, undoubtedly, is an ample proof of that. This big gamut of NITRA’s research & development activities has touched upon both central & state govt. sponsored researches as well customized researches conducted for leading companies in Indian textile industry.Furthermore, it is a matter of great pride that today many technologies and products that are developed by NITRA’s rich pool of scientists have been commercialized and used successfully in the industry. Keeping NITRA’s excellent service for the textile industry

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ASSOCIATION NEWS in mind and to bring up this success to the next higher level, MoT, GoI has designated NITRA as Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Protective Textiles & Automotive Textiles with providing infrastructure for developing expertise and technical capability for quality evaluation, product development and knowledge dissemination in the field of protective textiles.Similarly, to live up to the govt.’s trust, NITRA scientists had also come up with many innovative products in this domain such as Military and paramilitary uniforms from NYCO, Cut resistant gloves from composite metallic yarn, and Development of Fabric for stab resistant vest to name a few. Director General, NITRA Dr.Basu, while addressing, proudly added that Focus Incubation Centre (FIC) will provide necessary facilities and technical guidance to encourage technical textile entrepreneurs for testing new ideas and technologies and thereby leap forward to

more innovations in the products that they make. He is very confident that many new developments will happen in FIC and invites entrepreneurs from across the country to join FIC to make their dreams a reality. Hon’ble MoS, Textiles, Sh. Ajay Tamta, in his address mentioned about the deep impact of textile industry in Indian economy in terms of its significant contribution to the country’s GDP, foreign exchange earnings and employment generation. He asserted that the govt. has already taken many necessary steps and offered various attractive schemes in order to boost the Indian textile industry with special thrust on technical textiles. While concluding, the minister also shared his views on different issues prevalent in the Indian textile industry. Past Chairman, NITRA Mr. Nolkha proposed the formal vote of thanks.

BRAND FOCUS

GARWARE-WALL ROPES LIMITED REBRANDS AS GARWARE TECHNICAL FIBRES LIMITED TO POWER HIGH GROWTH TRAJECTORY Aims doubling profits over 5 to 7 years by growing to Top 2 position globally in major verticals

impact businesses significantly and adds unmatched value to customers.”, he added.

India’s leading technical textiles company Garware-Wall Ropes Ltd. (GWRL) announced change in corporate brand name and identity to Garware Technical Fibres Ltd. (GTFL). The rebranding is a part of a focused vision to double its profit over the next five to seven years and be amongst the Top 2 players globally in each of its major operating verticals.

“This is an exciting transformation for us and marks a strategic pivot in our future path in Technical Textiles business,” said Mr. Shujaul Rehman, Chief Executive Officer, Garware Technical Fibres Ltd. “Our presence significantly impacts the sustainability of food production with a positive impact on the environment. We will continue to grow our value added offering in more than 75 countries and are committed to growing both India and global business to serve our stakeholders”.

“Over the past four decades, we’ve built a strong reputation for quality, value addition, application focused innovation and we wanted this to reflect in our name and brand,” said Mr. Vayu Garware, Chairman & Managing Director, Garware Technical Fibres Ltd, “Our solution segments are niche and all these segments impact the larger economy. For example, among others, our solutions are focused on progress and productivity for agriculture and fisheries, which typically constitutes almost 14 to 15% of India’s GDP. The next five to seven years will be very important for us as we look forward to double our profits and this we will achieve by being among the top two in each of our major verticals.” “The new identity and name is a reflection of our commitment for creating value. With over 2o patents to our name, we are an idea-driven company which achieves differentiated valued added solutions that

After the change in identity and name the organization will now be known as ‘Garware Technical Fibres Ltd.’ About Garware Technical Fibres Ltd (formerly Garware Wall Ropes Ltd): (BSE: 509557 / NSE: GARWALLROP) Garware Technical Fibres Ltd. (formerly Garware-Wall Ropes Ltd.), an ISO 14001:2015 and ISO 9001:2015 certified company is a leading player in Technical Textiles specializing in providing customized solutions to its customers worldwide. Globally, the company is known for its applied innovation in the field of sports, fisheries, aquaculture, shipping, agriculture, coated fabrics and geosynthetics. Garware Technical Fibres Ltd products are manufactured in state-of-art facilities at Wai and Pune and marketed in more than 75 countries.

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August 2018

BRAND FOCUS

HOW TRÜTZSCHLER HELPS CUSTOMERS MOVE TOWARDS DATA DRIVEN DECISIONS Operating and managing a mill has its challenges, but skilled, loyal staff and their experience helped forming and maintaining successful businesses. The increasing demand for flexibility and quality in the textile industry is nowadays usually confronted with lack of skilled staff and high fluctuation thereof. One approach to address the issue is using data driven decisions in combination with the experience available. Customers still using a shift book or wondering what happened during the night shift, have the step of digitisation ahead of them – gathering available information digitally. T-DATA is Trützschler’s web based monitoring system and helps customers focus on the bottlenecks of production and concentrate the resources on the right spot. With the new My Production app, upper management sees at one glance whether their production is running smoothly or not. For this purpose, the app uses a very simple colour coding: a green indicator means “everything is OK”, a redcoloured indicator means “Act now”. It has never been easier to optimise settings and reduce downtimes or to monitor trends in production and malfunctions. Production processes can be analysed efficiently by viewing data over a specific period. The user can either choose between one of the readyto-use standard profiles for production, maintenance or quality or easily create individual charts and tables with data of interest. A standard external interface allows data to be used in customer monitoring, ERP or maintenance systems. The possibilities are endless. Obviously, T-DATA takes your data to the next level, but how does it get there?

The Next Level Has Been Reached One of Trützschler’s customers in Turkey has integrated T-DATA into their ERP and production planning system. Orders are generated and tracked through the production process using bar code scanners in the workshop. Once an order has been scanned, T-DATA tracks the production and quality data for this specific order, allowing an easy analysis at any time. The progress itself is reported to the production planning system, which then assigns the next order. As shown in this example, the exchange of information even throughout data systems is an upcoming topic. But one can start small with some simple steps towards data driven decisions. 5 Simple Steps to Data Driven Decisions - Increasing Mill Performance and Ready-To-Use 1. The new My Production app provides a way to be best informed anywhere 2. Use T-DATA’s fault analysis to focus on most affected machines and faults in the mill 3. Let T-DATA notify staff via e-mail/SMS in case of malfunctions, setpoint monitoring, maintenance, etc. 4. Receive shift and can data reports via e-mail or analyse inside T-DATA 5. Use real-time data during your discussions and meetings Ready to shape the future

High-End Sensors Made by Trützschler

The main goal of Industry 4.0 in the upcoming years will be, to optimise machines and supply chains, reaching the level of autonomy. This can be achieved with the concept of the Internet of Things (IoT), which is a network of connected devices exchanging information and orchestrating themselves.

A textile machine – irrelevant of its manufacturer – contains a high number of sensors to fulfil its purpose. Trützschler develops and manufactures additional highend sensors, to increase the data quality and thus enables customers to interact early in the process chain.

This concept has been in use in the Trützschler LINE COMMANDER long before the term Industry 4.0 was publicly known. Merged with new technologies and the resulting possibilities, Trützschler is ready to shape the future

The card’s NEPCONTROL sensor for instance, monitors the number of neps, seed coats and trash particles in the card sliver. Deviations are measured in real time and not hours or days later during sporadic laboratory tests. This ensures, that each metre of sliver in the can has been checked. In conjunction with T-DATA, one can instantly see a potential quality decrease of the incoming material or if certain machines are affected by wearing. The data monitored by those sensors is sent through Gateways to T-DATA and stored in a highperformance database, only one click away.

August 2018

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BRAND FOCUS

MONNA LISA EVO-TRE Print is undoubtedly one of the most varied, creative and innovative industries in the world.Due to the different types of work on offer, one of the most diversified markets is textile print. Ranging from t-shirts and dresses, to soft signage and home furnishing. DCC Print Vision is one of the most respected solution provider in the digital textile print market and is able to offer latest technology solutions for various textile print requirements. DCC in collaboration with EPSON launched Monna Lisa Evo-Tre, a remarkable digital textile inkjet printer in Indian market to cater various printing requirement of the industry. Monna LisaEvo Trerevolutionised the textile market by offering a digital tool that could shift from the sampling phase to reliable industrial production. The Monna Lisa is an industrial inkjet digital textile printer jointly developed by Epson and the leading Italian textile manufacturing equipment manufacturer Robustellis.r.l. Epson provided Robustelli with inkjet technology such as Micro Piezo print heads and ink supply mechanism components, enabling the two companies to commercialize a digital textile printer that can handle volume printing. Combined, the printer and ink enable the beautiful gradations and color reproduction typical of inkjet printing,

RAGHAVENDRA SINGH IS NEW SECRETARY,

NEWS

MINISTRY OF TEXTILES. Raghavendra Singh, a 1983 batch IAS officer of West Bengal cadre, will take over as secretary, ministry of textiles, in place of Anant Kumar Singh, who has been shifted to the department of land resources in the vacancy caused on superannuation of Dinesh Singh on June 30, 2018. The

with the flexibility to print on a range of fabrics including silk, cotton, nylon and polyester. In addition, in the high quality mode(1200 dpi – 4 pass), it achieves high-speed printing of about 147 m²/hr with 32 print head model. Monna Lisa Evo Tre 16 print head model offers high speed of 63 m²/hrwith high resolution printing (1200 dpi - 6 pass)and with the robustness to operate around the clock, it offers high productivity for volume printing. The Monna Lisa’s success is due to several factors. Not only is its quality and reliability crucial, and the printheads, inks and mechanics unique, continuous research ensures its excellence. Monna Lisa is a viable alternative for the textile market due to several key characteristics including reducing production time, ability to print on any type of fabric or using any design variant. It is possible to streamline sampling and prototyping production at a drastically reduced cost and with the best quality. Lower energy and water consumption make it a cutting-edge printer in the extraordinary evolution of printing technologies used in the textile industry. Epson’s belief in the potential of textile printing is based around a shift in the industry from analog to digital techniques. While traditional analog printing techniques require plates to be pressed against the fabric, digital techniques mean that fabric can be printed out without the need for expensive plates. This ensures that digital textile printing can be achieved at lower cost and in shorter times.

appointment has been approved by the Appointments Committee of the Cabinet. The order of the latest bureaucratic reshuffle has been released by department of personnel and training, ministry of personal, public grievances and pensions. Since November 2017, Singh was serving as secretary in the ministry of culture.

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August 2018

SHOW CALENDAR SHOW CALENDAR

August 2018

November 2018

30-01 Yarn Fabric Accessories (YFA) Ludhiana/ Punjab www.yfatradeshow.com

12-14 International Apparel & Textile Fair Dubai/UAE http://internationalapparelandtextilefair.com/

September 2018

13-14 REMODE LOS ANGELES https://remode.com/

4-6

Cinte-Techtextil Shanghai/ China http://cinte-techtextil-china.hk.messefrankfurt.com/

8 14th International Conferences on Apparel and Home Textiles New Delhi / India www.ogtc.in 10-12 Sustainable technical school 2018 Chemnitz/Germany https://sustainable-textile-school.com/schedule/ 9-11 The Fibre, Textile And Apparel Industries Nairobi/ Africa http://originafrica.org/index.php 10-12 GENTEX 2018 Colombo/Srilanka http://www.gentexfair.com/index.html 13-16 TTG EXPO Taipei / Taiwan www.ttgexpo.com.tw/en 12-15 19th TexTech Bangladesh 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh www.textechonline.org/textechbd 18-20 Heimtextil Russia 2018 Moscow / Russia heimtextil-russia.ru.messefrankfurt.com 22-24 TEMTECH 2018 Bhilwara / Rajasthan www.temtechindia.com 27-29

Yarnex Tirupur / India http://yarnex.in

October 2018

14-16 Intex South Asia 2017 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.intexfair.com/ 15-18

Big Fab 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh https://www.redcarpet365.com

20-22 INTERNATIONAL SOURCING EXPO AUSTRAILA Melbourne /Australia https://www.internationalsourcingexpo.com/ 23-25 Clothing Machinery Expo 2018 Ahmedabad Ahmedabad/India www.essentialtradefairs.com 21-24 VTG Ho Chi Minh City/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

December 2018 1-3

ITMACH Africa / AFRICA Sourcing show Nairobi/ Kenya www.itmach.com

04-05

Filtrex Asia Shanghai/ China http://2016.filtrationasia.com 5-7 The 19th Guangzhou China International Shoes Fair China http://www.ruihongfair.com/ 6-9 MTG YCC / Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com/mtg

January 2019

15-17 YARN EXPO AUTUMN 2018 4-6 SITEX Shanghai/China Surat/ India https://yarn-expo-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com/ www.sitex.sgcci.in shanghai/en/visitors/welcome.html 9-12 DTG 15-19 ITMA ASIA +CITME 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh Shanghai/ China www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/ http://www.itmaasia.com 18-20 GTTES 23-15 FEBRATEXTILE 2018 Mumbai/India Sao Paulo / Brazil www.gttes.india-itme.com 26

Global Cotton Conclave Goa/ India www.teflas.com

25-27 InterDye & Textile Printing Istanbul/ Turkey www.interdyeprinting.com

APRIL 2019 9-10 FILTREX INDIA New Delhi/India www.edana.org info@bch.in

June 2019 20-26

ITMA 2019 Barcelona,/Spain http://www.itma.com/

August 2018

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1 Year

12 Issue

`1200

`800

2 Year

24 Issue

`2400

`1500

3 Year

36 Issue

`3600

`2100

Name: Contact Person: Address: Phone No. Mobile No.: Email Id : Website :

Payment:

Paying by cash/cheque/Demand draft No Rs. i___________________________________________________________in Word Date _________ / __________ /____________ Drawn on (Bank Name / Branch ) _______________________________________________________

Date : _________________________________________ Singnature iContact Person Name : _________________________________________

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August 2018

INTERVIEW

We want to integrate the entire value chain; cotton/ MMF fibre is first value chain part & Spinning / Yarn is second part of chain. This both chain covered in this exhibition and weaving is the next step we want to go ahead. Fabric exhibition will do in other market like mumbai, Bangalore etc. not in Surat, as world know surat is manufacture of fabrics and have huge wholesale market. We are thinking to do exhibition in Dubai in near future.

President Vision Mr. Hetal Mehta, President Mr. Ketan Desai, Vice President The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Idea for Yarn Expo Surat Surat is predominantly associated with Fabrics. Raw material of Fabrics is Yarn. Yarn expo chairman and vicechairman of Madhusudan Group Shri Girdhar Gopal Mundra suggested starting this Expo under the banner of SGCCI. “If yarn quality is good, fabric will be good, so we have first decided to do Yarn Conclave with few Yarn Stalls but with huge response this has been started with full fledge exhibition. We will do this exhibition every year and grow exponentially in some year.” Different types of yarns are available in the world; Exhibition is awareness activity about the availability of yarn. Only through this kind of expo, we create awareness. Fabric manufacturers can explore different quality of yarns and make a quality and variety of fabrics from it.

Why Surat? Surat is hub of MMF, still many natural fiber manufacturer have displayed their fibers. Cotton fibers are available in Surat in miniscule quantity. World consumption is 60% MMF and 40% Cotton.

Yarn Expo is expected to felicitate new business alliances, launching of new products and services, expansion of sales network of MSMEs of Textile sector. This event will help the MSMEs not only from Surat or South Gujarat, but also from all over the country to showcase their innovations, quality standards and will broaden their market share in India and Abroad. Trade associations like SGCCI play a vital role in organizing such Trade Fairs and provide a platform to bring together exhibitors and visitors for overall promotion and development of the textile value chain. It is imperative to organize such Shows not only to face the challenging scenario of global textile industry but to provide a much needed push to the overall value chain of the Textile Industry. Foreign 140 buyers registered Online for Expo. We are expecting buyers from South and other clusters of textile. Exhibitor we only need Indian companies, no foreign exhibitor focus as of now, due to trade deficit. We want to sell our products, so we will call foreign buyers not exhibitors. Purpose of exhibition is for growth of industry, buyers will come to Surat, as its textile Manchester in Gujarat. Around 11000 buyers have visited Yarn Expo out of which around 225 buyers were from various cities of India like Bhiwandi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Salem, Tirupur, Guntur, Ludhiana and some of the buyers were from foreign countries like Iran, Tehran, Canada and USA.

‘‘The price of success is hard work, dedication to the job at hand, and the determination that whether we win or lose, we have applied the best of ourselves to the task at hand. -Vince Lombardi’’ August 2018

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August 2018

DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018

August 2018

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Apparel Accessories Textiles EXHIBIT AT AUSTRALIA’S DEDICATED SOURCING EXPO

Co located with

20 - 22 NOVEMBER 2018 MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

APPLY TO EXHIBIT • internationalsourcingexpo.com Partners

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August 2018

5/28/2018

210-297（准确）-01.jpg

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The ultimate destination for dyed yarn

Fact. B.No 307/P, Opp Relief Hotel, N.H.No. 8, Vill- Baleshwar, Tal - Palsana, Dis - Surat-394317, (Gujarat), INDIA. Tel.:91 99241 00921 Mo.:98241 12083 E-mail:taanushreint@gmail.com, Web : www.pstaryarns.com

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August 2018

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August 2018