December 2019 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

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December 2019

Volume 7

INTERNATIONAL SOURCING EXPOAUSTRALIA VIEWS Show Report AEPC Views JPDEPC Views AWFED FIJI INTERVIEWS Stoll Truetzschler Non- Woven PRODUCT INNOVATION Spacer Fabric Textile Flexible Cord MARKET REPORT Cotton, Yarn, Surat

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60

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YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS

RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLES

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 5 49 December 2019 at www.textilevaluechain.com www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office Branch Coimbatore

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CONTENT December 2019 ARTICLES 13- Economy Update : Textile industry Upheavals, Economy slowdown Reasons by M. Sundar Murugesan , HEPC

16- Fodder scarcity : Silage in plastic packaging showing the way out by Umesh Nayak and Shrichand Santani , Reliance Industries Ltd.

INTERNATIONAL SOURCING EXPO update

20- Sports Tech : Effect of Tuck Density on Sports Wear by PSG College Professors

52- AEPC View

28- COE - Agrotech : Importance of Agro Textile Testing by Sasmira Professors 33- Sustainable Fiber: Clothing from coconut Fibers by Dr. N N. Mahapatra

51- Event Report 53- JPDEPC 54- AWFED 55- FIJI

MARKET REPORT 35- Cotton Update by Dr. Ramkumar Seshandri

36- Yarn Report by Textile Beacon

38- Surat Report by TVC Reporter

INTERVIEW

EVENT REPORT

56- Stoll

39- Techtextil India 2019

57- Truetzschler Non- Woven

41- India China Co-Operation Forum 42- Filtech 2019 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Germany

50- SHOW CALENDAR

PRODUCT INNOVATION 43- Spacer Fabric

Advertiser Index

44- Textile Electrical Cord

Back Page : Raymond

Page 6: ITMA ASIA 2020

45- HEWA + GST update

Back Inside : Raysil

Page 7: LRT

46- Applied DNA and Reliance

Front Inside : Rimtex

Page 8 : Gartex 2020

Page 3 : Liva

Page 9 : DTG

Page 4 : Sanjay Plastics

Page 10: ITM 2020

NEWS

47- Period Panties Growth 48- Monforts

Page 5: DN Associates

49- ITM 2020 updates

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan December 2019

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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EDITORTIAL EXPORTERS PAINS WHICH NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED

‘‘

“The Pessimist Sees Difficulty In Every Opportunity. The Optimist Sees Opportunity In Every Difficulty.” – Winston Churchill

’’

P We are aware that Indian Textile and Apparel contribute only 3% in World. India had flourished export business in past due to quota system in which India had good share of business. After removal of quota system by WTO; many neighboring countries strengthen their economy by giving support to own country’s manufacturers to export in different developed nations. India missed bus and Developed countries import share lost. Later, to be competitive in Price War, GOI floated MEIS (Merchandise Exports from India scheme) and ROSL ( Rebate on State Levies Scheme) ; which will renewed under new name RoSCTL (Rebate of State & Central Taxes and Levies Scheme) from January 2020. Price war can be only wined by getting incentives as Production, Transportation, Labor, Bureaucracy cost makes Indian product less competitive with comparison to other exporting countries. In Reality, this incentive delayed and not given on time to exporters, which is badly affected sentiments of exporters and no motivation for expansion/ explore new products/ new markets. Many Exporter have shifted Domestic market. To secure payment, ECGC will expand scope of ECIS (Export Credit Insurance Scheme) with higher cover. In Reality, it’s meaningless as per exporter and few countries don’t entertain and nor LC have a meaning for few countries. Need to have solid payment secure scheme / support to safeguard interest of exporters. To support Marketing, MAI (Market Access Initiative) Scheme to explore the unexplored market by participation in various trade show across the world. SME Exporter took benefits of the scheme. Need more support on marketing front. ITC (Input Tax Credit) refund will be quick and with fully electronic refund module to ease exporter/ SME with liquid cash. Huge hue and cries happening for all over India with no payment transferred on time. Despite all the schemes, Exporters are not happy and secure as they find our Credit / lending money cost 7-8 % . Logistic cost is more as compare to International market. GSP benefits are underutilized, not communicated effectively. For Publicity and Market development not much support provided. There are still many untapped market in the world, Research and guidance required to reach there. Exploring small market, with small quantity with Big Profit is the exporter now looking for. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Team wishing you a Very Prosperous, Meaningful and Fruitful New Year 2020!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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December 2019

ECONOMY UPDATE

TEXTILE INDUSTRY- UPHEAVALS:ECONOMY SLOW DOWN REASONS AND SOLUTIONS AS ON OCT.2019 M.SUNDAR MURUGESAN M.Tech MBA M.A-Public Admin (PhD)

INTRODUCTION: Textile industries in India passing through a slowdown in recent months because of drop in yarn exports by 65%. Demand and Supply gap is steadily increasing and inventory of finished goods keep on an increasing trend and working capitalis locked in the form of unsold goods.

“higher tariff” for Chinese exports up to 24.3% after June 2019, some unbalance started in international “economy order”. Their smoothtrade in global market is affected. Likewise, with the beginning of this unwarranted trade war. We lost our export of yarn to Chinese market by 50%.The yarn that was not

This has eventually forced the manufacturing units to reduce the production capacity by 20 to 30% across the nation. This unusual condition leads to job losses by more than 35% Textile related employment (Estimated approximate total jobs rendered by textile industries are about 5 crores) directly or indirectly overall in India. In these pages, let us discuss the probable causes for this sudden slow down and need of the hour for the revival of this industry and Indian economy from this current crisis.

PROBABLE REASONSBEHINDTHISS LOWDOWN:

I.) US-CHINA TRADEWAR: America and China are the first two rank “economic powers” of the world. Once America imposed

December 2019

agreements globally clearly sends out India from Global garment market as Vietnam is the major beneficiary in this trade agreement. China escaped from the brunt of this TPP by installing garment units in Vietnam. Indian entrepreneurs missed this opportunity also as we are averse to such kind of risks. This caused reduction in demand of yarn by Indian Apparel Exporters.Higher manufacturing cost, higher lending rates for working capital andno appreciable “Trade Agreements” with EU & America forced this industry lag behind the competing small nations like Bangladesh, Indonesia and Vietnam whose apparel exports are 3 times higher than us.

III.) DROP IN DOMESTIC CONSUMER PURCHASING POWER:

exported to China became a surplus quantity and finds its position by overflowing in domestic market. Hence the supply in domestic market became surplus and trade unbalance is the result. Reduction in demand forced the manufacturer’s finished goods inventory blocking the working capital. This is one of the major cause forcing the industries to curtail their production and the employees live with a fear of losing their jobs .However they began to experience delayed wages and some of them a sizable cut in their average earnings per month.

II.) LOWERRATE OF APPARELEXPORT GROWTH: Indian apparel growth rateisnotencouraging in the recent years.TPP

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Indian domestic market is very huge one that helped to absorb any big shake in market upheavals in earlier occasions. But after the high value “currency devaluation”, the scenario is totally different with extra cautious approach by every trader/manufacturer. The purchasing power of common man stooped down to a lower level. Though the availability of textile commodity is huge, the purchasing power of Indians is lower.

IV.) TAXATION: Calculative taxation of the all products helps in building the nation. Since after WTO agreement our “economy growth” depends on our “export capabilities. Whole world market looks for “cost effectiv equality - performing products”. To win the competition, our product quality and price should be competitive in the world Apparel market and then only demand for our product in “International Market” will increase and our export presence can go up. For thatthe Apparel industry should be

ECONOMY UPDATE “sustained” by the Governmentby the way of “regulated affordabletaxes, levis and encouraging export subsidies and incentives”.

V.) POOR TECHNOLOGY UPGRADATION of Indian Textile sector: Looking only on quantity and giving low importance toproduct quality reduces the demand for the products. Spinning and garment industries should think of going for “Technology Upgradation” esp. in spinning & processing sector to compete the international market instead of “Volume expansion by Spindle Addition” and “Enhanced production throughGarment Line Addition”. This will help to reduce manufacturing cost and increase product quality. But it definitely requires GOI intervention by suitable revivedintroduction of user friendly scheme `TUF-Technology Upgradation Fund` for Textile Industries.

REMEDIES FOR REVIVAL OF ECO NOMY & BUSINESS- COMMON AND INDIVIDUAL: I.)INCREASE MONEY FLOW IN THE HANDS OF BUSINESS UNITS AND PEOPLE: People’s purchasing power should be increased by the Government by the way of allowing reasonable level of money flow in people’s hand. For that we can make artificial inflation by1 or 2%, by increasing earnings of employees of all categoryand by paying reasonable %subsidies in the income taxcollected from individuals and companies yearly as a motivational initiative. To put the Indian Economyback on the rails, GOI’s may pump in more money in the hands of its citizens as it hastaken backall high value currency notes from the hands of its citizens by a bold, decisive and good intentionalimplementation ofdemonetization, which unexpectedly slowed downour economy.This will increase the purchasing power of the people and the demand will increase and the supply will go up and there by production will increase, employ-

ment will be safe guarded and our economy will start growing faster. GOI should ensures its people’s purchasing power improved so that Demand and Supply ratio maintained as 1:1.Fixing deadlines for filing all types of taxes or punishing by the ways of penalties and penal actionsby tax authorities will frustrate the business community. Fairapproachesby tax department for filing all taxes and giving reasonable time will help the tax payers to fulfilTax department’srequirements. Domestic consumption level will rise to 10% and above from the sharp fall of 3.1% in first Quarter of FY 2019-20, in due course if the money flow increases and the purchasing power of the citizens improved from the current level.

II.) REDUCE INTEREST RATE ONMONEY BORROWED: ”Public Sector Banks “may think of reducing the “lending rates” to the “Borrowers” by2% from the current MCL Rrate for all loans (Term Loan, CC,Home Loans,etc.,) of industries and individuals..RBI should help banking sectors by reducing its repo rate additionally by 1.5% from current 5.25% so that business can be improved and economy can grow. Releasing loans alone will not help unless reducing interest rates on borrowings which needs to at par with international LIBOR rate + reasonable premium for banks suiting Indian businesses.

III.) REDUCE LONG TERM DEPOSITS’ INTEREST RATE: RBI should think of allowing banks to reducelong term money deposit’s interest rate by2% proportionately from current rate so that banks’cost of funds will get reduced and also banks must be rationalised to keep the expenses at control.

IV.)RE-ALLOT & RELEASETUF: Government should re-introduce “TUF” and help upgrade all textile industries machinery to compete global market with cost effective quality

product and scrap their out dated technology machinery & equipments. This scheme should be extended to all textile industries like spinning, knitting, weaving, Textile processing, garmenting etc., User friendly “TUF” scheme with “5% Interest Subvention” should be made available to all the beneficiaries with simplified rules and regulations from banks and support from “Ministry of Textiles”. Timely refund of TUFsubsidies, positivelyat every quarter will help to revive Textile Industries. “TUF” loan may be limited to a maximum of rupees 100crores for each beneficiaries so that more number of Units can avail the allotted funds and can upgrade their manufacturing machineries and equipment to improve their production,productivity,quality and control their cost of production to compete in global market. With this limit on Loan amount, risk of defaulters can be eliminated. Government should keep this “TUF” scheme in force for a period of 7 years and should allot at least 10,000 croresper year for “TEXTILE SECTOR”. At the end of 7years, ourTextile Industries will be equipped and modernized to challenge international competition as we do now in our “defence forces modernization.”

V.) REGULATED TAXES & LEVIES: Government shouldreview, reduce and regulate the taxes on “Good sand Services” so that they could be affordable by the industries and allow the industries to continue their business without slow down. With the increased revenue received by government, by the strict implementation of GST, its rates may be reduced to possible minimum level. Since industries are “employ mentcreators & providers” to the nation, extreme care should be taken, while deciding tax rates on Goods and Services. Taxes should be levied equally for all textile fibres, natural& man made

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December 2019

ECONOMY UPDATE and not to exceed 5%.GST registration and payment exemption limit may be doubled for “SMEs” from the current 40 lakhs limit. ”GST Composition Scheme” limit for goods should be raised to 2 crores without the restriction of “Inter State Transaction” and for Service Tax, the limit may be raised to “1 crore” from the current “50 lakhs”limit. The loss about 8000 crores to the government will be made available to the hands of common citizens of India and the money flow will increase and economy will grow.

VI.) ENCOURAGE EXPORTERS BY SUBSIDIES & INCENTIVES: Government should extend the “Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) to all textile chain. “Timely refunding of all subsidies, inputcreditsandincentives” will help the industries to manage the slow down. Helping exporters will directly help to improve “GDP” growth from current (Q1 FY 2019-20) 5% level to maximum achieved 8% level gradually. TUF subsidies are not timely dispersed by Govt to the beneficiaries. This should be released without any delay to industries. GOI to simplify rules and regulations for FDI and domestic investments on Indian Industries.

VII.) INCREASE REPAYMENT LIMIT OF TERM LOANS OF INDUSTRIES: Government may think of “TermLoan” availed by Industries repayment period to a maximum limit of 12years and announce zero interest for the last two yearsEMIs.Term loans interest rate should be affordable and should not exceed 7% at any time.Banks may be encouraged to restructure the loans on borrowers’ request.

VIII.) MILLS SHOULD PRODUCE COST EFFECTIVE QUALITY PRODUCT: As the demand is shrinking and competition is increasing, it is time to rethink and evolve newer strategies in production and marketing processes.

December 2019

Upgrading our five major factors, material,men,machine,methods and market will help for strong rooting of any establishment. Textile industries should give more importance to raw material quality to produce cost effective qualityproducts.Ones the raw material quality is taken care of,90% of end product quality is assured. Mills with stringent raw material management survive any market slow down. Mills should strive and invest for excellence in their work men’s skill level by giving extensive skill development training so that the cost of production can be reduced by increasing productivity, reducing non confirm products, and assuring product quality. Mills should implement in their production process few of the various proven methods and systems like QMS (Quality Management System), TPM (Total Productive Maintenance), 5SSystem, MS (Performance Maintenance System),Budget Systemetc., so that confidence level of both the Supplier and Buyer will go up. Mills practising few of these systems can withstand any economic storms. Mills which are steadily transforming its armoury of machinery according to the technological innovations reap the results and survive all time. High production and high quality oriented “State of the Art” Machineryreduces the cost of production and assures high quality product. For any product sales, themarket, either domestic or overseas is very important. Best marketingstrategies, focus on Buyers’ stated and unstated needs, customersatisfaction, will help any industries to face any short term or long term challenges.

IX.) MILLS SHOULD INVEST ON VALUE ADDED PRODUCTS: Domestic and global demand is increasing for value added products. Organic Yarn, BCI certified Yarn, Compactyarn, slubyarn, injection slub yarn, magic slub yarn, mélangeyarn, high twist yarn, fancy yarns etc.

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Spinning Mills with more than 50,000 spindles may run different varieties of yarn for different market.

X.) MILLS SHOULD THINK OF ENERGY CONSERVATION & GREEN ENERGY WHICH PAYS PREMIUM FOR PRODUCTS: Since the power cost contribution is about 50% of the conversion cost,Spinning Mills should give importance to power cost control. Power tariff varies state to state and country to country. Hence to compete both domestic and global market, Mills should fix some targets to control UKG and there by power cost. InTamilNaduState, power cost per unit comes between Rs.6.50 to 7.10 based on usage of EB power, privatepower, third party power and implementation of various power saving measures by Mills. A saving of Rs.1.5 per unit incoarser to finer count will help to reduce power cost by Rs.5/- to Rs.15/-per kg which is substantial reduction in conversion cost. Government power tariff in Gujarat State benefitingthe Spinning Mills about Rs.5 per kg in 30s combed hosiery count. In Bangladesh, Spinning Mills are using the economical CNG (Compressed Natura Gas) as fuel for power generation. The power cost per unit isonly Rs.1.70 (2.0 DK/KWH).They have Rs.5 per unit advantage in power cost and Rs.15 per kg in 30s Combed Hosiery yarn. In labourcost, additional advantage of Rs.5 per kg. Overall advantage in power cost and labour cost is about Rs.20 per kg in 30s Combed hosiery count. Though we are deprived of such advantages in India, we should still explore newer avenues to reduce our power cost to compete globally. Periodical “Energy Audit”, and “Air Audit” will help control power cost.”Drives “used in humidification plants will help reduce power cost during winter season. Mills with own Wind Power, Solar Power get some advantages than others. Government

ECONOMY UPDATE may encourage green power projects with good subsidies.

XI.)Contamination free Cotton and Fine varieties

Indian

India, even though the largest producer of cotton in the world, we depend on imports for: y Contamination free cotton y Super fine varieties In- spite of Technology Mission`s concrete efforts to promote the quality of Indian cotton in terms of Quality consistency/Contamination free cotton, results are distinctly lower and we still depend on Imports for Contamination free cotton This situation can change only and only if the Growers of Indian cotton are directly in touch with the spinners –leave alone the middlemen. The trading of cotton in India needs a sea change if some developments need to take

place as per the vision of Technology Mission by GOI.In India, we have SUVIN, SURABHI, VARALAKSHMI and MEENAKSHI cotton long staple fine varieties which has better properties than Imported PIMA and GIZA. Unfortunately, in the absence of support from Spinners added with speculative market conditions restrict these varieties to a very low output –leading to greater demands for imported cotton. Even DCH 32 is not promoted in the right manner and we even get adulterated DCH 32 nowadays, because of poor traders` practices.

CONCLUSION: Revival of our economy is certain and eminent. However this kind of continued slowdown is not healthy. Since the slowdown is not only due to internal factors but also due to global trade agreements and political factors we need Government of India`s

support to form suitable strategies as stated above including renewed Technology Mission for Cotton.We believe steady growth will be guaranteed by the collective efforts of ourGovernment, Industries and people of our nation. Hence constructivepositive and creative approach with patience will help grow the economy faster. Moreover Spinning Mills should plan internal strategies to withstand any challenges in the market. Keeping in mind the experience gained in domestic and global market, Millsshould take concrete action to reform its production and marketing activities to withstand any up and downs in near future. With the high calibre technical team, and the vibrant Textile Associations available with us in all textile segments,all things are possible.

PACKAGING FOCUS

FODDER SCARCITY – SILAGE IN PLASTIC PACKAGING SHOWING THE WAY OUT livestock population.

SHRI UNMESH NAYAK

• About 65-70% of the total cost of livestock farming is attributed to feeding and hence fodder and feed are an integral part of animal Husbandry and there is no shortcut to sustain livestock husbandry, without addressing the development of fodder and feed resources

Sr. Vice President- Polymers Business Head – Polyethylene Reliance Industries

• With 176 million tonnes milk production, India is the largest milk producing country globally. The milk production has almost tripled since 1990-91 with a growth of over 4 percent annually which has increased to almost 5 percent in recent years (Niti Ayog report)

SHRICHAND N SANTANI AVP, Business Dev- Polyethylene Reliance Industries

Prologue: • India where over 75% farmers are small and marginal holders, livestock is the main source of livelihood for majority of the rural population. It is

the backbone of Indian Agriculture contributing 7% to national GDP. India has the highest number of livestock population in the world (512 million, 19th Livestock Census 2012), representing over 17% of the world

• However, the average milk yield of cattle in India is very low. While the average milk yield of cattle in the world and Europe is 2038 kg and 4250 kg per lactation respectively, the average milk yield of Indian cattle is

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December 2019

PACKAGING FOCUS Dry fodder: Deﬁcit %

Milk Production 2017 (Million Tonnes) Milk Production

1000

827

800

23%

600

21%

400

2015

World

USA

• As per NIANP-ICAR, there is shortage of green and dry fodder to the extent of up to 32% and 23% respectively.However, twice a year the problem gets very acutedue to shortage of green fodder for cattle. This is because availability of fodder has a huge dependence on monsoon performance. There is abundant fodder available for cattle during the monsoon season but during lean periods or drought conditions, the fodder availability decreases remarkably. This periodic unavailability poses a great challenge to not only sustain milk production but also the health of the animal population, hence it is very necessary to provide abundant fodder to the cattle during lean periods as well. Green Fodder: Demand vs Availabilty 2015-25 (Million Tons) 1000

840 619

880

596

1000

600

0 2015

2020

Requirement

2025

Avilability

Green Fodder: Deﬁcit % 26%

32%

40%

2015

2020

2025

(Source: NIANP2012) • Prolonged preservation of Fodder in the form of Silage was a potential solution, but largely confined to the pit

December 2019

2020

2025

India

only 990 kg because of fodder management practices. (Source – Animal Husbandry, MS)

2000

21%

176

200

Dry Fodder: Demand vs Avilabilty 2015-25 (Million Tons) 1000 500

491 387

530 408

550 433

2015

2020

2025

Requirement

Avilability

method in some large government / private locations. Reliance Industries Ltd with a dedicated task force went about finding a solution to the issue, through packaged silage. • Many activities were undertaken since inception of the task force in 2011… y MOU with Veterinary colleges and agriculture universities for regulatory approval from GoI. y Presentation given to state ministry of animal husbandry. y Trial conducted at various large co-operative dairies across India y Organized more than 30 live demos for farmers in rural India y Leaflets developed in 7 vernacular languages. y Telecast &Documentary on Silage bags developed byPunjab Dairy Development Board Doordarshan Krishi Darshan, Chitale Dairy, Animal Husbandry department (MS), Door Darshan, Delhi Brahamkumaris, “Entrepreneurship development on Fodder Products & Feeding Management” program was covered by DD Oriya y Published reports in leading newspapers like The Hindu, Dainik Jagran, Kesari, Sakaal,Agrovan, Rajasthan Patrika, Dainik Yugpaksh, Dainik Bhaskar, Lion Express, Andhra Jyothi. Spec-in of silage bags in Govt notifica-

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tions, Livestock farms, Major Dairies , KVKs, Veterinary colleges Pan India and tenders from Animal Husbandry Departments &Nodal Govt Agencies of Maharashtra, Tamil nadu, Haryana, Punjab and other states under various schemes like NADP scheme, RKVY, NLM, NDDB, ATMA, State Fodder development scheme. y National Livestock Mission’s new guidelines (2014-15) have given recognition to use of small units. y Silage bags commercialized in 18 states/ UT viz Pondicherry, Kerala, Telangana, MP, Himachal, Delhi, Maharashtra, Gujarat, Bihar, Andhra, Tamilnadu, Rajasthan, UP, Kerala, Karnataka. y Veterinary Colleges released a technical report on Silage making in PP FIBC bags y Cattle feed trial & training program conducted for more than 100 dairies. y Trial of Anti-rodent Silage bagsinitiated pan-India y Presentation to ATARI (Agricultural Technology Application Research Institutes), Director & Joint Director -AHD (various states- Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Karnataka, NE state) for the inclusion of Silage bags in the Govt. schemes. y Draft BIS standard for PP Silage bags submitted y Supply chain developed, @ 1.5 Million FIBC bags of various capacities were used for silage making over a period of 2.5 years’ time. What is Silage? • Chopped green fodder packed in anaerobic condition gets converted in to silage.

Advantages of Silage making • Ensures regular supply of fodder to the dairy animals • Ensures uniform quality and digestibility of fodder during different seasons. • Enhances milk yield of dairy animals by ensuring fodder supply, especially during lean period.

PACKAGING FOCUS • Helps in maintaining better health of animal, as parasites present in different stages of green fodder are destroyed during ensiling.

Fodder crops suitable for silage making • Quality silage can be prepared from cereal green fodder i.e. Maize, Sorghum, Bajra, Hybrid Napier, Oat, etc. Cereal green fodder is preferred as these are rich in soluble carbohydrates and hence are more suitable for fodder ensiling. Sugar is utilized in fermentation process tomake lactic acid by microorganism. Lactic acid act as preservative also helps in improving digestion of fodder and proper utilization by ruminants. • Silage based on Maize crop is mostly used in Dairy industry as it is very nutritious with 8-9% protein. • In India, maize is the 3rd most important food crops after rice and wheat. The maize is cultivated throughout the year in different parts of the country for various purposes including grain, fodder, green cobs, sweet corn, baby corn, popcorn etc. • The major maize growing states that contributes more than 80% of the total maize production are Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Rajasthan, Maharashtra, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh. Maize can be grown in all seasons viz Kharif (monsoon), post monsoon, Rabi (winter) and spring

condition i.e. no air inside a bale in presence of microorganisms, sugar contained in green fodder is converted into lactic acid, which helps process of fermentation of green fodder in to silage. • Almost all forages can be ensiled to some extent, maize being most popular.

ing upon type of machines.Technical Textile HDPE Net enables hassle free baling, dimensional stability. Can be used round the year as a high nutritious feed for better milk yield and higher SNF in dairy animals, as a substitute for green fodder. Advantages of Bale silage • Easily digestible, high in protein.

Process & Features • Moisture content, chop length, silage distribution and compaction (minimises aerobic activity & maximises anaerobic activity) can greatly influence the fermentation process and losses. • Finely chopped high quality fodder with 10% carbohydrate are fermented with/without inoculant as per local needs and by compacting. • Tightly packed chopped green fodder with UV stabilized PE Bale silage film are stored for proper ensiling (inner and outer layer). Packaging Material: Technical Textile (HDPE Net) and Bale silage film • Outer layer is UV stabilized PE bale silage film (Relene LLDPE Octene film grade has now been stabilized and being used in making bale silage film, there are no. of supply chain on Pan India basis). • Inner layer may be either Technical Textile HDPE Net (UV stabilized, 9-10 gsm, Relene HD raffia grade) or UV stabilized PE bale silage film depend-

• Less dependent on weather conditions, provide fodder round the year. • Can be stored in the field and easily transported within farm. • Limited capital investment, minimum labour, low transport and storage cost. • Used Bale silage film can be effectively recycled.

Machines for Bale Silage: • More than 150 bale silage machines of different capacities and make are in operational in India both imported (Orkel, Fateh Makina, Chinese, etc) and indigenous (Bakhsish Inds, Cornext, etc), Bale silage varies from 80 kgs to 450 kgs. Promotion Bale silage: • Gradual depletion of green pasture across India is a major growth deterrent of milk production GOI spends lot of money per year on fodder purchase or as subsidy for green fodder storage using traditional methods. • However, the shortage of fodder

• Under proper storage condition, silage can be stored even up to 2 years. Different types of Silage making • Various modes of making silage are being used namely bales silage, vacuum packing, bag silage etc of which mechanised application of PE Bale silage is flourishing the most. Bale silage • To conserve and store green fodder for livestock using the natural process of fermentation. • Baled silage is prepared by preserving chaffed green fodder in anaerobic fermentation method. In anaerobic

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December 2019

PACKAGING FOCUS during lean season is growing as the age-old silo digging process is labour oriented and highly capital intensive. • Starting from the initial concept development stage to the current cusp of the silage packaging revolution in the country, efforts continued to catalyse the change in the Dairy sector. • Our efforts were provided a spark, earlier this year with the commencement of baling of silage on high speed machines. Some of the breakthroughs are: h Using machines imported from Turkey, the process of silage making in 80 Kg bales was first introduced in Punjab. h Sabar Dairy, a subsidiary of AMUL, took the lead in providing preserved /packed green fodder to all their milk producer member at very nominal cost. They under took a Pilot Project for Silage preparation. After the success of this Pilot Project, it has been further scaled up. h To address fodder scarcity issue arising out of drought in villages, Animal Husbandry, Maharashtra announced 3 schemes -i) Raje Yashwantrao Holkar scheme -to install 25 mini silage bale wrapper machine ii) Nanaji Deshmukh Krishi Sanjivani Yojna (Pocra) - subsidy on purchase of Bale silage machine in all drought affected villages iii) Tender for supply of huge quantity of silage. h AHD-AP identified Livestock as a growth engine & offer subsidy on Bale silage machines. Also issued a tender for purchase of huge quantity of Bale silage. h Success stories in Punjab: Silage industry has well established in Punjab area. Punjab Dairy Development Board has recently included Bale silage machine in the notification. Also,Agriculture department, for the first time included in notification, the usage of drip pipe for maize crop with subsidy, a basic crop, raw material

December 2019

for making Bale silage. Use of micro irrigation and mulch in future will help in enhancing yield of the crop, hence above development is going to give big boost to Silage industry particularly Bale Silage in Punjab. h The acceptance of PE Bale silage continues to grow leaps and bounds at various corners of the country now, currently its requirement is @ 10.5 lakh T, which is expected to grow to 10 Million Tons in next 5 years’ time. Bale silage film (Recycling): • After usage of Silage, the Agri bale silage film should not be thrown in the field and can be sold to recyclers which fetches some value of the film to the farmer, Dairies. This recycled film can be converted in to useful products like furniture garden benches, pallets, Lapeta pipe, drip, etc Potential of Silage Industry (all variants) in India (Billion Rs):

Conclusion:

in the country • The keen interest of the Cooperative and private sector in the business of silage with large capital infusions, the acceptance of packed silage among dairy farmers and the readiness of farmers to take up fodder crops as a remunerative production option plus the state governments supporting the process with subsidies for machineries are all setting into motion a cycle of hope which in the future would grow into a great revolution. • We look forward with hope, that silage as a key fodder input in the dairy sector, would alleviate the major constraint of round the year availability of fodder in the dairy sector • The expected announcement of National Dairy Plan, phase 2 (NDP2), promoted as Mission Milk, having outlay of 8000 crores, spread over 5 years, will provide further thrust in enhancing milk processing capacity and infrastructure for which silage

Potential Silage Industry Total Number of Cows and Buffaloes (Cr):

17.1

Average no. Green Fodder Scarcity (days per year):

150

Minimum Amount of Silage to be fed to Animal /day (Kg):

Amount of Silage Required in India (Cr. Tons):

25.65

Average Market Price of Silage (Rs per Ton):

5500

Potential Industry size in (billion Rs):

1410

Potential: Silage packaging material (Bale silage / Bag) Qty of Bale silage/ Bags required to pack 5% 0f total potential (Cr. Tons)

1.2825

Price of Bale silage / Bag (Rs/T)

140000

Potential for Bale silage/ Bags required to pack 5% total potential (Billion Rs)

1795

Total Potential of Silage (including packaging) Industry (Billion Rs)

3206

• We look back with satisfaction, and look at the current scenario with firm belief to be leading the dairy sector to a way towards solving the round the year fodder availability

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will play a major role on the feed input side of year-round nutritious fodder availability across the country!

SPORTS TECH

EFFECT OF TUCK DENSITY ON MOISTURE TRANSFER CHARACTERISTICS OF DOUBLE-FACE KNITTED FABRICS FOR ACTIVE SPORTSWEAR B SATHISH BABU P SENTHILKUMAR M SENTHILKUMAR Department of Textile Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore ABSTRACT The properties of any clothing is decided by the constituent of its fibres, yarn and fabric structure.As clothing it should satisfy the wearer both in functional and aesthetic aspects. Thermal comfort is related to the temperature of the body and micro environment between the fabric layer and the skin. The heat generated by the human body during strenuous activity must be dissipated to the external environment through the clothing. So the clothing worn next to skin should have the property of transferring the perspiration from the skin and to transfer the moisture to the atmosphere thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. Moisture transfer refers to the transfer of both moisture vapour and perspiration away from the body. The influence of tuck density on thermal comfort characteristics of double â&#x20AC;&#x201C; face knitted fabrics has been studied with 120 denier cotton grey yarn and 240 denier polypropylene yarn. Five different double-face fabrics of 6X9 double-face fabric, 6X6 double-face fabric , 3X3 double-face fabric, 9X9 double-face fabric and 12X9 double-face fabric were produced using high speed double circular knitting machine with inner layer as polypropylene fabric and outer layer as cotton fabric. With respect to tuck density, 6X9 double-face fabrics show better results for moisture transfer characteristics. The number of tucks per square centimeter influences the moisture transfer characteristics of double-face knitted fabrics. KEYWORDS: Double-face fabrics, Tuck density, Wetting, Wicking, Moisture vapour

1. INTRODUCTION Moisture transfer in a fabric performs a key role in maintaining the body heat at ambient body temperature of 370C which is essential for a fabric in deciding its comfort level. Whatever heat the human body produces must flow out through the fabric via the body surface by con-

duction, convention and radiation. Sport which involves higher level of physical exertion causes the body to sweat and it should be evaporated in making the body cool. So the clothing must ensure a higher level of moisture transmission. Fabric must have the property of transferring the sweat out of the body and making the wearer to feel comfortable. So moisture transfer can be defined as the ability of a fabric to transport moisture away from the skin to the fabric outer surface and to release it into the surrounding air. Hence wetting, wicking and moisture vapour transmission characteristics are the critical aspects of a fabric in deciding the clothing comfort of the wearer. In functional fabrics, to maintain high moisture, cotton fibres are used to maximize the moisture transfer. Double layered knitted fabrics with polypropylene yarn as inner layer and cotton or viscose yarns as outer layer makes the wearer more comfortable during strenuous activity 1. The mechanism of moisture transfer through clothing during transient conditions play a key role in deciding the dynamic comfort of the wearer 2. A high level of comfort can be achieved by producing a double-face knitted fabric. In the double-face knitted fabric, the parameters can be selected independently of one another for both the inner layer and outer layer 3. In double-face knitted fabrics, the inner layer can be preferred as hydrophobic synthetic filament yarn which has good capillary action and outer layer can be hydrophilic yarn which absorbs the moisture and allows it to evaporate 3. The comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics with cotton/polypropylene bi-layer knitted fabric and tencel/polypropylene bi-layer knitted fabric were studied and found that tencel/ polypropylene bi-layer knitted fabric shows better results for wetting, wicking, water absorption, moisture vapour transfer, dryness, thermal conductivity and air permeability characteristics and recommended for sportswear 4. The moisture management and thermal absorptivity properties for double-face polypropylene cotton knitted fabrics were studied and found that inner polypropylene layer transmits quickly the moisture to the outer cotton layer. Due to this faster rate of moisture transfer from the polypropylene layer, both the moisture content and wetted area on the polypropylene side found smaller than the cotton layer. Polypropylene-cotton knitted fabric easily transfers the perspiration by keeping a dry warm feeling to the wearer 5. The comfort and thermo physiological characteristics of multilayered fabrics with various woven and knitted fabric combination by using cotton, lyocell,

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December 2019

SPORTS TECH polyester and polypropylene were studied and found that cotton/polypropylene plaited fabric and cotton/polyester plaited fabric shows better results for air permeability, thermal conductivity, water absorbency, water spreading rate, water vapour permeability and wickability and recommended for use during cold climatic conditions 6. The thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabric structure for volleyball sportswear were studied and found that bi-layer knitted fabric made with polypropylene as inner layer have better moisture transfer characteristics when compared with plated and single jersey structure 7. The moisture-management properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics for sportswear were studied and found that the micro-fibre polyester and modal bi-layer knitted fabric shows better results for moisture management property 8. In this study, the influence of tuck density on moisture transfer characteristics of double-face knitted fabrics produced with different tuck density is analysed.

Dial cam has two tracks. The Short and Long needles move in track 1 and 2 respectively. Cylinder cam has four tracks, out of which the small and medium needles move in track 1 and track 2 respectively, long needles move in track 3 and no needle has been placed in fourth track of knitting. This is shown in the dial and cylinder needle arrangement in Table 1 and Table 2. Table 1

Dial Needle Arrangement

Dial Needle Arrangement Total number of dial needle

1872

Number of needles in track - 1

936

Number of needles in track - 2

936

DNT1- S (Dial needle track 1-Short needle) DNT2 –L (Dial needle track 2-Long needle) Feeder 2 for polypropylene yarns

Needles moving in dial track-1 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19……1871 Needles moving in dial track-2 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20……1872 18 Feeders are fed with polypropylene yarns

Table 2 Cylinder Needle Arrangement

2.MATERIALS AND METHODS

Cylinder Needle Arrangement

2.1 Production of double-face fabrics

Total number of cylinder needle

1872

Number of needles in track - 1

780

Number of needles in track - 2

780

In order to study the influence of tuck density on thermal comfort characteristics of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton grey yarn of 120 denier and polypropylene dope dyed yarn of 240 denier were selected for the study. Five different double-face fabrics were produced from 120D C/240D PP as 6X9 double-face fabric, 6X6 double-face fabric , 3X3 double-face fabric, 9X9 double-face fabric and 12X9 double-face fabric. The polypropylene yarn selected were multifilament dyed yarn of 24 filaments and the cotton of combed hosiery grey yarn. The selected yarns were knitted using high speed double circular knitting machine of 20 gauge with speed of 25 rpm to produce five different double-face fabrics containing 3 mm stitch length having tuck stitch at every 6th wale and every 9th course, tuck stitch at every 6th wale and every 6th course, tuck stitch at every 3rd wale and every 3rd course, tuck stitch at every 9th wale and every 9th course and tuck stitch at every 12th wale and every 9th course of the fabric with inner layer as polypropylene fabric and outer layer as cotton fabric. The basic structure of double-face fabrics produced is plain single jersey structure having two layers connecting them by introducing tuck stitch. Production of the five different fabrics was made by changing the cylinder and dial needle arrangements. Production of 6X6 double-face fabric is explained in section2.2. All other four fabrics were produced in the similar manner.

2.2 Production of 6th Wale and 6th Course DoubleFace Fabric The dial needle arrangement, cylinder needle arrangement, needle set out and cam set out for producing double-face fabric having tuck stitch at every 6th wale and every 6th course are discussed below.

December 2019

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Number of needles in track -3

312

CNT1- S (Cylinder needle track 1-Short needle) CNT2 –M (Cylinder needle track 2- Medium needle) CNT3 –L (Cylinder needle track3 -Long needle) Feeder 1 for cotton yarns

Needles moving in cylinder track-1 3 5 9……1871 Needles moving in cylinder track-2 2 4 6 8 ……1872 Needles moving in cylinder track-3 1 7 13 19…1867 18 Feeders are fed with cotton yarns

As shown in Figure 1.a every 6th needle of the cylinder produces a tuck stitch in wale wise with the corresponding 6th needle of the dial (i.e.) cotton yarn goes in to the loops of polypropylene yarn to produce double-face fabric. That is the cylinder needles 1, 7, 13, 19…1867 from track 3 produces tuck stitch due to the presence of tuck cam. The cylinder needles of 2-6, 8-12, 14-16, 20-24…1872 needles produce knit stitch due to presence of knit cam.

Needle set out for 6th wale and 6th course doubleface fabric As shown in Figure 1.b, Out of 36 feeders, the cylinder needles were controlled by tuck cam in 2nd, 14th and 26th feeder. Thus the cylinder needles produced tuck stitch with the dial needle. (i.e.) cotton yarn goes in to the loops of polypropylene yarn at every 6th course to produce the double-face fabric of 6th wale and 6th course knitted structure.

SPORTS TECH 36 26… 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2

x 1

x 7…

1872

Figure 1.a Needle set out diagram of 6th wale and 6th course doubleface fabric

Where, X- No of Needles in Wale wise, Y- No of Feeders in Course wise

Cam set out for 6th Wale and 6th course double-face fabric F1

F5…

F14

DN1

DN2

CN1

CN2

CN3

F15.. F26

F27…. F36

Where - : Miss Cam, X : Knit Cam, O : Tuck Cam Figure 1.b Cam set out diagram of 6th wale and 6th course doubleface fabric

Knitting loop formation of double-face fabric

As shown in Figure 1.c, the dial and cylinder needle will perform miss and knit stitch simultaneously during fabric production. The cotton yarn from feeder 1, forms miss stitch with dial needle and knit stitch with the cylinder needle. The polypropylene yarn from feeder 2 produces knit stitch with dial needle and miss stitch with the cylinder needle. Every 6th needle of the cylinder in track 3 produces a tuck stitch in wale wise with the corresponding 6th needle of the dial due to the presence of tuck cam. As the cylinder needles are controlled by tuck cam in 2nd, 14th and 26th feeder, the cylinder needle produces tuck stitch with the dial needle at every 6th course to produce 6th Wale and 6th Course double-face fabric. This cycle was repeated throughout the knitted fabric production. As discussed in production of double-face fabrics (Figure 1.a, 1.b and 1.c) having tuck stitch at every 6th wale and every 6th course, similar arrangements of dial needle arrangement, cylinder needle arrangement, needle set out and cam set out were followed to produce other four different double-face fabrics having tuck stitch at every 6th wale and every 9th course, tuck stitch at every 3rd wale and every 3rd course, tuck stitch at every 9th wale and every 9th course and tuck stitch at every 12th wale and every 9th course of the fabric with inner layer as polypropylene fabric and outer layer as cotton fabric. The double layered knitted fabrics produced were subjected to hot wash and bleached with hydrogen peroxide at 3% on weight of material at 1000C and dyed with hot brand reactive dye at 5% on weight of material at 900C in winch dyeing machine. Then it was washed and dried in a stenter at 1300C and subjected to relaxation for 48 hours. Then the fabrics were tested for its geometrical and moisture transfer characteristics.

3. TESTING The double-face fabrics produced were tested to assess the thermal comfort characteristics. The wettability of the double-face fabrics was measured by evaluating the time taken by the fabric sample to sink completely in water . As per (BS 3424) the vertical wicking test was evaluated. The transverse wicking characteristics were analysed for the double-face fabrics 9-11. The moisture vapour transfer characteristics of double-face fabrics were measured by using ASTM E 96 – cup method. The drying rate was measured for the double-face fabrics 12. Air permeability test was carried as per IS 11056 : 1984. Thermal conductivity test was carried as per lees disc method. The thickness of the double-face fabrics were measured by using thickness gauge as per ISO 5044:1996.

4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Figure 1.c Knitting loop formation of 6th wale and 6th course doubleface fabric

To study the influence of tuck density on thermal comfort characteristics of double-face fabrics, five different double-face fabrics produced from 120D C/240D PP were used and denoted as 6X9 fabric for 6X9 double-face fabric, 6X6 fabric for 6X6 double-face fabric, 3X3 fabric for

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December 2019

SPORTS TECH 3X3 double-face fabric, 9X9 fabric for 9X9 double-face fabric and 12X9 fabric for 12X9 double-face fabric.

4.1 Geometrical Characteristics

4.2.1

Analysis of Wetting Characteristics

The ability of double-face fabrics to sink in water completely were studied and given in Table 4.

The geometrical properties of double-face fabrics were studied and the average value of 10 samples was given in Table 3. From the Table 3 it was found that change in tuck density affects the thickness of the double-face fabrics. The 12X9 double-face fabric shows higher values for thickness as compared to other four fabrics.

4.2 Moisture Transmission Characteristics The moisture transmission characteristics such as wetting, transverse wicking, vertical wicking and moisture vapour transfer of double-face fabrics were analysed and the average values were given in Table 4. Table 3 Double-face Fabric Geometrical Characteristics Double-Face Fabric

Tuck density

Wales Courses (Tucks per per cm per cm Sq.cm)

Stitch Stitch Areal density length density 2 (grams/m ) (mm) (loops/cm2)

Thickness (mm)

3 3 fabric

18.12

12.74 16.78

213.77

237

2.9

0.92

6 6 fabric

5.39

12.76 16.82

214.62

241

2.9

0.98

6 9 fabric

3.28

12.80 16.94

216.83

245

1.04

9 9 fabric

2.92

12.73 16.77

213.48

235

2.8

1.08

12 9 fabric

1.54

12.70 16.74

212.59

233

2.8

1.16

Table 4 Moisture transmission characteristics Wetting

Transverse Wicking

Dynamic transverse Vertical wicking wicking

Moisture vapour transfer (%)

Water spreading Time area for Double-face taken to fabric 1ml of absorb water on 1ml of face side water of Top (s) layer (mm2)

Water Wicking Water Time spreading spreading height after taken Area area for area for 30 minutes for the Time covered (cm) 1ml of 1ml of double taken to Reduction Reduction to reach water on water on layered reach in height in weight saturation back side face side of water of water fabric saturation of of (mm2) Wale Course to sink (s) Bottom Bottom wise wise (s) layer layer (mm2) (mm2)

3 3 fabric

254

242

150

195

364

11.0 10.5

28.3

11.11

6 6 fabric

269

261

158

184

396

11.8 11.6

26.6

11.10

6 9 fabric

280

264

160

170

411

12.2 11.7

20.0

10.87

9 9 fabric

246

234

182

201

330

10.1 9.8

16.6

10.37

12 9 fabric

102

240

232

194

224

306

9.8

13.3

10.25

9.5

From Table 4 it is seen that with respect to tuck density, 6X9 fabric takes lesser time to sink in water when compared to other four fabrics. The wicking height both in wale wise and course wise direction was higher for 6X9 fabric than other fabrics. The wale wise wicking height was more than the course wise wicking height for all the five fabrics. In transverse wicking and dynamic transverse wicking, the time taken to absorb one drop of water on face side of top layer of 6X9 fabric was lesser than the other fabrics. The area of water spread for one drop of water and the area of water spread to reach saturation was also found to be higher for 6ŕ¸&#x20AC;X9 fabric.

December 2019

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Figure 2.a Wetting characteristics of double-face fabrics

From Figure 2.a and Table 4, it is found that 3 x 3 fabric shows quicker sinking time. The fabric transmits the water quickly to the cotton layer which absorbs and spread the water to the entire fabric surface. This makes the fabric to sink in water in lesser time as compared to other four fabrics. When the tuck density of the fabrics is decreases, fabric pores will be increases, which will makes the fabrics to sink quickly. 6 x 9 fabric show optimum value with respect to sinking time. The standard error bar in the Figure 2.a. indicates the significance level of 3x3 fabric with other fabrics with respect to sinking time. Effect of tuck density on wetting behavior of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.27E-45).

4.2.2

Analysis of Wicking Characteristics

The rate of water spreading due to capillarity were studied and given below.

4.2.2.1 Longitudinal wicking rate The rate of water spreading on various double-face fabrics were tested both for wale wise direction and course wise direction and given in Figures 2.b and 2.c.

Figure 2.b Longitudinal wicking rate of double-face fabrics â&#x20AC;&#x201C; wale wise direction

SPORTS TECH From Figures 2.b, 2.c, the wicking height was analyzed for all the five fabrics in relation to wicking time from 1 minute to 30 minutes. In general, wicking height increases with wicking time in both wale wise and course wise direction for all the five double –face fabrics at all intervals of time. 6X9 fabric having 3.28 tucks per square centimeter has higher wicking height than the other four fabrics.

ing area of the double-face fabrics was measured.

Figure 2.d Area of water spread on face side of top layer of double-face fabrics

Figure 2.c Longitudinal wicking rate of double-face fabrics – course wise direction

Wicking height of selected five fabrics increases with decreasing tuck density from 18.12 tucks per cm2 to 3.28 tucks per cm2. After that wicking height of the fabrics was reduced from 3.28 tucks per cm2 to 1.54 tucks per cm2. This trend was observed in all wicking time intervals. Wicking height of the fabrics is higher in wale-wise direction than that of wicking height in course-wise direction. Inter yarn space between and with-in fabrics are increases when the tuck density decreases. This may be the reason for increasing wicking height from 3x3 fabrics to 6x9 fabrics. After that decrease in tuck density from 3.28 to 1.54 tucks per cm 2, makes the fabrics more porous and it doesn’t allow the water to arise. That is why the fabrics 9x9 and 12 x 9 fabrics have lower wicking height. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.b and Figure 2.c indicates the significance level of 6x9 fabric with other fabrics with respect to wicking height in wale wise and course wise direction respectively. Effect of tuck density on wicking in wale wise direction of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 3.41E-38). Effect of tuck density on wicking in course wise direction of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.4E-37).

4.2.3 Analysis of Transverse Wicking and Dynamic Transverse Wicking Characteristics The area covered by spreading one drop of water on various double-face fabrics for transverse wicking and dynamic transverse wicking were given below.

4.2.3.1 Area of water spread for one drop of water The area covered by spreading one drop (1 ml) of water was tested and given in Table 4. From Figure 2.d, Figure 2.e and Table 4, the water spread-

Figure 2.e Area of water spread on face side of bottom layer of doubleface fabrics

When one drop of water is placed on face side of top polypropylene layer of double-face fabrics, it first interacts with surface and is transported immediately to the next layer. This is because of transverse wicking. During this period water also travels longitudinally. As gravitational force is higher than wetting force, it comes to the next bottom cotton layer quickly without spreading much on top layer. So, it has minimum spreading area. As soon as droplet comes to bottom cotton layer it travels both in transverse and longitudinal directions. Here, wetting force is higher than gravitational force and it also take time to travel in transverse direction. In the mean time, due to wetting force, water moves in longitudinal direction and reaches the bottom layer. That’s why bottom cotton layer has more spreading area than top polypropylene layer. From Figure 2.d, Figure 2.e, and Table 4, it was found that as 6X9 fabric having 3.28 tucks per square centimetre transmits one drop of water from polypropylene layer quickly to the cotton layer which absorbs and spread the water in cotton layer fabric surface. As it transfers the water quickly the spreading area is found less in polypropylene layer and more in cotton layer. 6X9 fabric spreads the water quickly from polypropylene layer to cotton layer with minimum spreading area of water on polypropylene layer surface and maximum spreading area of water on cotton layer surface than the other four fabrics. This is real moisture management behavior of the double faced fabrics. It was achieved with the 6X9 fabric. The spread-

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December 2019

SPORTS TECH ing of water at the back side of bottom layer has been measured by cutting the tuck stitches between cotton and polypropylene layers of all the double-face fabrics. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.d.and Figure 2.e. indicates the significance level of 6X9 fabric with other fabrics with respect to water spread on face side of top layer and water spread on face side of bottom layer respectively. Effect of tuck density to spread 1 ml of water on face side of top layer of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.12E-30). Effect of tuck density to spread 1 ml of water on face side of bottom layer of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 8.09E-43). Effect of tuck density to absorb 1 ml of water of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.12E-30).

4.2.3.2 Area of water spread and time taken to reach saturation The area covered and the time taken to reach saturation point of the double-face fabrics were studied and given in Table 4.From Figure 2.f and Table 4, the water spreading area of the double-face fabrics to reach saturation was measured. From Figure 2.f and Table 4, it was found that 6X9 fabric having 3.28 tucks per square centimetre transfers the water quickly from polypropylene layer to cotton layer and get saturated in minimum time with maximum spreading area than the other four fabrics. As 6X6 fabric has 5.39 tucks per square centimetre and 3X3 fabric has 18.12 tucks per square centimeter the time taken for water to get transfer from polypropylene layer to cotton layer increases with decrease in spreading area. As 9X9 fabric has 2.92 tucks per square centimeter and 12X9 fabric has 1.53 tucks per square centimeter the space between the two layers of these double-face fabrics are very high respectively which increases the water transferring time with decreased water spreading area. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.f. indicates the significance level of 6X9 fabric with other fabrics with respect to effect with 3X3 fabric, 9X9 fabric and 12X9 fabrics with respect to area of water spread and time taken to area of water spread and time taken to absorb water in reaching saturation.

Effect of tuck density to spread water in reaching saturation of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.16E-66). Effect of tuck density to absorb water in reaching saturation of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: pvalue 1.96E-50).

4.2.4 iour

Analysis of Moisture Vapour Transfer Behav-

The rate at which the moisture vapour get transferred to the double-face fabrics were tested and given in Table 4. Number of tucks per unit space influences the moisture vapour transfer behavior of the fabrics. Moisture vapour transfer characteristics of the fabrics are decreasing with decreasing tuck density. Tuck stitch in the fabric allows the water vapour to pass out of the fabric. Moisture vapour transfer measured by weighing method has no significant effect. As 3x3 fabric is porous than 6x6 and 6x9 fabric it allows more moisture to pass through the fabric. As the space between the two layers are more in 9x9 and 12x9 fabrics due to lower tuck density, these fabrics allow less moisture to pass through them. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.g indicates the significance level of 3x3 fabrics with other fabrics with respect to moisture vapour transfer. Effect of tuck density on moisture vapour transfer in reduction in height of water of doubleface knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 3.08E-70). Effect of tuck density on moisture vapour transfer in reduction in weight of water of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 3.38E-64).

Figure 2.g Moisture vapour transfer for height and weight reduction of water of double-face fabrics

4.2.5

Analysis of Drying Characteristics

Drying rate of the double-face fabrics was calculated and expressed as average weight loss over initial water content per unit area. It was the ability of the double-face fabrics to evaporate the moisture present on the fabric surface. Figure 2.f Area of water spread on double-face fabrics to reach saturation

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SPORTS TECH Figure 2.i represents the significant level of 3X3 fabric with other fabrics with respect to air permeability. Effect of tuck density on air permeability of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 2.27E-32).

4.2.7

Figure 2.h Drying rate of double-face fabrics

From Figure 2.h it was found that 6X9 fabric has quicker drying time to return to its original weight when compared to other four fabrics. This is due to minimum water holding capacity of the fabric. The trend observed was as tucks per square centimeter increases to 5.39 for 6x6 fabric and 18.12 for 3x3 fabric, the time taken for these fabrics to get dried is found high in these fabrics. As 9X9 fabric has 2.92 tucks per square centimeter and 12X9 fabric has 1.53 tucks per square centimeter the space between the two layers of these double-face fabrics are very high respectively which results in higher drying time in these fabrics. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.h indicates the significance level of 6X9 fabric with other fabrics with respect to drying rate. Effect of tuck density on drying rate of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 1.78E-54).

4.2.6

Thermal conductivity of the double-face fabrics is the ability of the fabric to conduct heat. It is found that there is a good correlation between air permeability and thermal conductivity value of the selected five fabrics. Tuck density decreases with increasing fabric thickness. Fabric thickness is the influencing factor for thermal conductivity. Thermal conductivity of the fabrics increases with increasing fabric thickness. This trend is observed from 3x3 fabrics to 6 x 9 fabrics. After that thermal conductivity values decrease for 9x 9 and 12 x 9 fabrics though the fabric thickness value is in increasing trend. This is may be due to higher entrapped air between layers of the fabrics. The standard error bar shown in the Figure 2.j represents the significant level of 6X9 fabric with other fabrics with respect to thermal conductivity.. Effect of tuck density on thermal conductivity of double-face knitted fabrics is significant at 95% confidence level. (F calculated > F tabulated: p-value 3.26E-39).

Air Permeability Characteristics

Air permeability of the double-face fabrics were tested and given in Figure 2.i. It was found that 3x3 fabric has higher air permeability than the other four fabrics. The air permeability decreases with decrease in tuck density. As 3x3 fabric is porous than 6x6 and 6x9 fabric it allows more air to pass through the fabric. As the space between the two layers are more in 9x9 and 12x9 fabrics due to lower tuck density, these fabrics allow less air to pass through them. The standard error bar shown in the

Figure 2.i Air permeability of double-face fabrics

Thermal Conductivity Characteristics

Figure 2.j. Thermal conductivity of double-face knitted fabrics

5. CONCLUSION Influence of tuck density on thermal comfort characteristics of double-face knitted fabrics was analyzed. It is observed that 6X9 fabric takes optimum sinking time , higher wicking rate, lesser time in absorbing one drop of water than the other four selected fabrics. In dynamic transverse wicking, 6X9 fabric shows an increase in area of spread on bottom cotton layer than the other four fabrics. Further, it shows lesser time in reaching the saturation point on the fabric surface than the other four fabrics. The fabric shows optimum value with respect to moisture vapour transfer and quicker drying when compared to other four fabrics. 6X9 fabric shows optimum air permeability and higher thermal conductivity when compared to other four fabrics. It is concluded that the tuck density (number of tucks per square centimeter) plays a major role in deciding the moisture transfer characteristics of

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December 2019

SPORTS TECH double-face knitted fabrics to achieve suitability for making sportswear.

7.Suganthi, T. Senthilkumar, P. & Dipika, V. (2017), Thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabric structure for volleyball sportswear, Fib & Text East Eur, 25, 75-80.

6. REFERENCES

8.Suganthi, T. & Senthilkumar, P. (2017), Moisture-management properties of bi-layer knitted

1. Piller, B. (1986), Integrated multi-layered knitted fabics- A new generation of textiles polypropylene fibres, Melliand Textilberich, 67, 412-416. 2 .Das, B. Das, A. Kothari, VK. Fanguiero, R. & Araujo, M. (2007), Moisture transmission through textiles, Part I: Processes involved in moisture transmission and the factors at play, Autex Res J, 7, 100110. 3.Oglakcioglu, N. & Maramarali, A. (2009), Thermal comfort properties of double face fabrics knitted with cotton and polypropylene, Autex 2009 World Textile Conference, Proceedings, 26-28. 4. Anbumani, N. & Sathish Babu, B. (2008), Comfort properties of bilayer knitted fabrics, The Indian Text J, 8, 17-28. 5. Gamzen Supuren, Nida Oglakcioglu, Nilgun Ozdil & Arzu Marmarali. (2011), Moisture management and thermal absorptivity properties of double-face knitted fabrics, Text Res J, 81, 1320-1330. 6.Kandhavadivu Mallikarjunan, Ramachandran, T. & Geetha Manohari, B. (2011), Comfort and thermo physiological characteristics of multilayered fabrics, J of Text & App Tech & Management, 7, 1-15.

fabrics for sportswear, J Ind Text, DOI:10.1177/ 1528083717692594. 9. Sampath, MB. & Senthilkumar, M.(2009), Effect of moisture management finish on comfort characteristics of micro denier polyester knitted fabrics, J Ind Text, 39, 2, 163-173. 10. Sampath, MB. Aruputharaj, A. Senthilkumar, M. & Nalankilli, G. (2012), Analysis of thermal comfort characteristics of moisture management finished knitted fabrics made from different yarns, J Ind Text, 42, 1, 19-33. 11. Sampath, MB. Senthilkumar, M. & Nalankilli, G. (2011), Effe ct of filament fineness on comfort characteristics of moisture management finished polyester knitted fabrics, J Ind Text, 41, 2, 160-173. 12.Robert Miller A & Jill Cravotta, B. (2006), Knitted fabric construction with improved moisture management, US Patent No:6986270B2.

NEWS

TO AVOID RCEP-LIKE STALEMATE, INDIA TO GO SLOW ON FTA India will not sign any free trade agreement (FTA) in a hurry or to the disadvantage of the industry and exporters, according to commerce and industry minister Piyush Goyal, who recently told the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) Exports Summit that New Delhi is talking to the European Union (EU) and the United Kingdom regarding trade pacts. “I can assure all of you that going forward, none of the FTAs will be settled in a hurry or will be settled to the disadvantage of Indian industry and exporters,” he said. Even the first leg of India’s trade deal with the United States is for the benefit of both sides equitably, he was quoted as saying by a news agency. As the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement, which India opted out of last month after negotiating it for seven years, has been reduced to an IndiaChina FTA, nobody wants it, he said. He clarified that walking out of the

December 2019

RCEP does not mean that India does not want to be a part of the global value chain. He urged the industry to focus on becoming part of the value chain with Europe, the United States, ASEAN nations, Japan and Korea. Goyal said that Indian business and industry have been put to disadvantage over the years and instead of addressing some of the real issues that industries face, more and more distress was caused to them. Simultaneously, India’s export faced huge trade barriers in other countries, he said. After 2011 when FTAs were finalised, India’s exports barely inched up while imports shot up drastically and therefore the country’s trade imbalance became manifold, he added. CII has identified 18 developing economies that hold the promise of sustained growth over the coming few decades based on current gross domestic product (GDP) levels and population indicators. These are: Brazil,

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Mexico, Indonesia, Turkey, Thailand, South Africa, Malaysia, Philippines, Egypt, Vietnam, Ethiopia, Myanmar, Ghana, Tanzania, Uzbekistan, Cote D’Ivoire, Cambodia and Guinea. The report titled ‘India’s Exports to Emerging Economies: Targeting Prospects and Chasing Opportunity’ was released by Goyal. CII’s research also pinpoints to 53 products at the 4-digit HS code level which hold strong prospects for greater inroads into the identified emerging economies. These products were identified based on a multi-tier analysis including the top imports of the identified countries, India’s current export competitiveness in each of the products (revealed comparative advantage) and current global export volumes. Of this list, the products have been further sub-divided into three lists to indicate levels of export potential from India based on existing competitiveness and other factors.

COE AGROTECH SASMIRA

IMPORTANCE OF AGROTEXTILE TESTING & TESTING FACILITIES AT COE-AGROTECH Dr. U.K. Gangopadhyay Executive Director

SASMIRA

Dr. Manisha Mathur

Agrotextiles Agrotextiles is amongst the front runners of the fastest growing Technical Textile Segments; these are used to support Agricultural/Horticultural activity. Agrotextiles like shade-net, mulch mat and crop cover etc. have the potential to mitigate the negative impacts of adverse climate. Growth rate of Agrotextiles along-with other segments of Technical Textiles is presented in the following table:

Table: Growth of Technical Textiles

Joint Director SASMIRA

Mr. R. P. Singh Scientist

SASMIRA Source: Technopack Study

Potential for Agrotextile in India Protected cultivation Now-a-days, we all are facing capricious weather conditions like high temperature in summer, unseasonal rain & hail, drought and excessive cold in winter etc. This is not the only problem, scarcity of the natural resources like land and water etc. are also aggravating the situation. Increasing population and urbanizationhas led to theencroachment upon agricultural land. Currently, the challenge is to produce more with less land and less resources. Traditional ways of farming are certainly not going to catch-up. Technologies are being explored to enhance Agricultural productivity and quality. Protected cultivation has the potential to isolate plants from external environment and establish plant desired microclimate, thus facilitates cultivation even in adverse climatic conditions. Agrotextiles like shade-net, mulch mat and crop cover etc. help in providing partial protected environment and have the potential to enhance Agricultural and Horticultural productivity.

We are an Agriculture nation. Almost 60% of the population depends upon the agriculture for its livelihood. Gross Value Added by agriculture, forestry and fishing is estimated at Rs 18.53 trillion (US$ 271.00 billion) in FY18. There is a growing preference for horticulture crops amongst the Indian farmer because vegetables/fruits are short duration crops,these mostly grown on small patches of land by marginal farmers, often in less than an acre of land. As land holdings become increasingly fragmented, production of vegetables/fruits ensure quick returns to farmers, compared to agricultural crops likerice and pulse etc. which take relatively more time to harvest. However ever changing climatic conditions have a challenge that needs to be overcome to support our Agricultural as well as Horticultural etc. activity. Agrotextiles products have demonstrated not only improvement in terms of productivity and quality but also unseasonal cultivation. However, Agrotextile products are relatively new, nation-wide promotion of Agrotextiles on a mission mode is the need of the hour. Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India has already given two pilot schemes

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December 2019

COE AGROTECH SASMIRA Shade-net

1-Promoting Usage of Agrotextiles in North East Region: Budget Outlay: Rs 55Cr (2013-2020) 2- Promoting Usage of Agrotextiles in Rest of India: Budget Outlay: Rs 10Cr (2015-2017) Being Center of Excellence, SASMIRA has provided the technical support and field implementation of the schemes. The schemes have helped in spreading awareness about Agrotextile products. It has also catalyzed the growth of Agrotextile industry. Impact of the schemes has been summarized as under: • Increased productivity : 2 to 5 times • Avg. Increase in Farmer’s income: 67-75% • Increase in intensity of crop: 3-4 crop cycles in a year & through-out the year cultivation • Reduced water consumption: 30-45% • Minimized use of fertilizers and pesticides: 25-30% • Prevention of damages owing to birds: 100% protection and 20-30% increase in production • Prevention of damages owing to hailstone: 100% protection

• Reduction in production loss owing to falling off of fruits: 20-30% • Weed control and suppression: 100% • Premium quality of produce • Early and even ripening of produce (more harvest cycles per year) India has 25.43million Hectares practiced for horticultural activities, however only1-2 % is practiced under protected cultivation. Promotion of Agrotextile will help in tapping the huge potential and improving socio-economic life of our farmers. Agrotextile & Allied industry will have to expand aggressively to meet this mammoth demand.

Agrotextile products There are no. of Agrotextile products available, however each one of them sever two primary purposes i)- Mitigate adverse climatic condition ii)- Save/conserve natural resources. List of major agrotextile products and their basic function is given below. The key functional properties required in agrotextile products are as follows: y Weather resistance – They must work effectively in various climatic conditions involving wide ranging temperatures, precipitation, etc. y Resistance to micro-organisms – They must be resistant to microorganisms to protect the produce and prevent diseases. y Stable construction – The construction must be such that they can undergo a fair amount of wear and tear

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Mulch

y Light Weight - The weight of the fabric should be such that it plant from intense solar Weed Control, Conserves Soil can be borne Protects radiations Moisture and by the plant Crop Cover Harvest Net y Resistance to solar radiation. – They protect the plant from Prevents fruit loss during solar radia- Protects plant from cold and frost harvesting tions • Vermicompost Bed Protects plant from cold and frost y Resistance to ultraviolet radiation – They must protect the plant/living Water conservation being from Portable and cost effective solution for production of ultra violet vermicompost radiations y Long service life – They ideally should have long life span y Biodegradability – Agro textile products should be biodegradable after their life so that they do not pollute the soil and environment. y Water conservation – They must have high potential to retain water and reduce evaporation

Importance of Testing Technical textiles are meant to deliver specific performance. Meeting the expectation is of paramount importance. Ensuring performance characteristic of a technical textile product before putting it to useis essential. Hence it is very important to ensure quality of the material at every step right from raw material to intermediate to final product.Testing plays a vital role in conforming the quality of the raw-material and finished product qualityfor meeting the stringent quality requirements of a technical textile product.The materials used in particular may be in the form of fiber, yarn, fabric (woven, non-woven, knitted or braided) or in the form of composites. Agrotextile products are meant for outdoor application, therefore they have to survive the outdoor conditions. Hence, weather resistance in the context of Agrotextile is an indispensible characteristic. While some of the testing parameters to be evaluated for a particular product are similar to conventional textiles, a few specific test parameters have been devised keeping in view the performance or functional requirements of such product. Testing supports in following ways. y Quality Control for products both during production and during installation y Determination of the suitability of the material for the specific application / functional requirement

COE AGROTECH SASMIRA y Comparison between products for selection and y Specification of a product for specific application

Equipments for Testing and product certification

Major testing facility at COE-Agrotech

The STA 6000 features the capability of simultaneous giving TG and DTA/DSC measurements. It serves the analysis of raw-materials as well as finished products to get insights of many important characteristics listed as under:

COE-Agrotech was established under Ministry of Textiles, GoI in the year 2008. It is equipped with state-ofthe-art testing Analy�cal and product certification facility required for testing and performance Mechanical Chemical Tes�ng evaluation of Technical Textiles particularly Microbiologica Agrotextiles. COE-Agrotech testing range can be classified in following four categories: l

Testing facilities are accredited with National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories (NABL) and American Association for Laboratory Accreditation (A2LA). There are no. of tests available for assessing the performance of different Agrotextile products; major tests have been summarized as under.

1- Simultaneous Gravimetric Analyzer (STA)

Particulars Model: STA-6000 Make: Perkin Elmer, USA Temperature Range: RT to 10000C

Type of samples • Fibre • Yarn • Fabric • Powder • Plastic • Liquid • Gel

Characteristic Melting/crystallization behavior Glass transition temperatures Decomposition temperatures Measurement of volatiles (e.g., water, oil) Thermal stabilities Compositional analysis – quantitative content analysis Kinetic studies Specific heat capacity Filler content Oxidative stabilities

2- Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)

List of major tests Material

Polymer & Additive

Major Tests Melting point Glass transition temperature Percentage crystallinity Impurity analysis Particle size analysis Antimicrobial activity Melt Flow Index (MFI) Viscosity Count Tensile strength Modulus Elongation Cross-sectional analysis

Fibre, filament, tape and yarn

Additive distribution Impurity analysis

SEM is a versatile thermionic emission system intended for both high- and low-vacuum operations designed with respect to a wide range of SEM applica¬tions and needs in today’s research and industry. SEM is mainly used for surface analysis of the test substrate which is beyond visible light range, major applications are listed as under

UV- Resistance Microbial resistance Surface morphology Bio-degradability GSM Tensile strength Wide width breaking test Puncture resistance –CBR and INDEX Weathering Resistance Trapezoid tear strength Bursting strength Cone drop test Fabric

Thermal conductivity Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) Transmission Infrared transmission Shade-percentage

Particulars Model: SBH-100 high vacuum Make: Tescan, Czech Republic Resolution In high-vacuum (mode SE) • 3 nm at 30 keV • 8 nm at 3 keV In low vacuum (mode BSE) • 3.5 nm at 30 keV

Type of samples  Fibre  Yarn  Fabric  Powder

Nature of additive distribution

 Plastic

Coating/finish Analysis

 Metal

Dimensional analysis

 Composite

Magnification 3 X – 1,000,000 X

Application Defect Analysis Compositional analysis Surface topography

Identification of material based upon surface morphology etc.

 Hair

Electron Beam Energy 5keV to 30 keV Scanning speed from 20 ns to 10 ms per pixel adjustable in steps or continuously

 Pharmaceutical

Cross-section and longitudinal imaging of filaments/yarns

samples  Encapsulated materials  Nanomaterials

Impact strength Water vapour permeability Color fastness Antimicrobial activity Bio-degradability

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December 2019

COE AGROTECH SASMIRA 3. High Performance Thin Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) HPTLC (high-performance thin layer chromatography) is a sophisticated form of TLC, which provides superior separation efficiency. HPTLC system is mainly used for determining presence of targeted chemical component (in case of textiles banned amines or any other harmful substance)for its presence in textile substrate itself or finishing/coloring/coating material applied on the textile substrate Particulars Model: Make: CAMAG, Switzerland

Type of samples • • • • • • •

Application Presence of banned/harmful/undesired Fibre chemicals Yarn Fabric Impurities Powder Plastic Hair Pharmaceutical samples

gas chromatograph (GC) coupled to a mass spectrometer (MS), by which complex mixtures of chemicals are separated, identified and quantified. It can be applied towards the study of liquid, gaseous and solid samples Particulars Model: Make: Shimadzu, Japan

Type of samples • Fibre • Yarn • Fabric • Powder • Plastic • Hair • Pharmaceutical samples

Application Presence of volatile banned/harmful/undesired chemicals (Phthalates, amines etc.) Impurities Material identification

6. Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) is a technique used to obtain an infrared spectrum of absorption or emission of a solid, liquid or gas. An FTIR spectrometer simultaneously collects high-spectral-resolution data over a wide spectral range. Particulars Type of samples Model: Spectrum -100 Wide range of sampling Make: Perkin Elmer, USA accessories provides the flexibility to measure almost any solid, liquid, powder or paste across the whole MidIR/Near-IR range

Application Material identification Presence of specific functional group Compositional analysis Defect analysis Presence of impurities

4. High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) High-performance liquid chromatography is a technique in analytical chemistry used to separate, identify, and quantify each component in a mixture. Advantage of HPLC is that it allows HPLC allows quantitative separation of components in a sample. Target chemical component (in case of textiles banned amines or any other harmful substance) may be present in the textile substrate itself or into the finishing/coloring/coating material applied on the textile substrate. Available system is capable of determining both qualitative as well as quantitative analysis.

7. Accelerated Weatherometer Textiles which are developed for outdoor application, needs to assessed for their weather resistance performance. Agrotextiles are meant for outdoor field application. In outdoor application product has to survive field conditions like UV, humidity and temperature etc. Hence it becomes important to have such tests which can predict product field life. QUV weathrometer facilitates such test. Particulars Model: Accelerated Weathering Tester Make: Q-SUN, USA

Type of samples • Fibre • Yarn • Fabric • Plastic sheet

Application Weathering performance of the material

8.Shade-o-meter

5. Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) GC/MS system is useful for analyzing presence of smaller and volatile molecules such as Phthalates, amines, benzenes, alcohols, aromatics, and simple molecules such as steroids, fatty acids, and hormones etc. It comprises of a

December 2019

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For agricultural use, photosynthetically active radiation energy must reach to plants for optimum growing conditions so the measurement becomes necessary. Therefore, shading percentage becomes one of the important test parameter for agricultural net samples as it indicates the amount of light that is being transmitted through the shade nets. Before this equipment there was no equipment available to objectively test the shading percentage of shade-net fabric. SASMIRA developed this unique

COE AGROTECH SASMIRA equipment which is quick and easy in operation. The equipment has been recommended by BIS for shade percentage testing as per standard IS: 16008

textiles in India. So-far, COE-Agrotech along-with BIS has developed 12 IS standard for Agrotextiles listed as under: SI. No. IS No. 1 IS 15351:2015 2

(part 1 & part 2) Particulars Make: SASMIRA, Mumbai

Type of samples Shade-net Fabric

Application Shade-percentage

Light Source: Tungsten filament with 400 -700 nm wavelength  Measurement chamber: With reflective coating and the arrangements to hold light source, filter and lens.  Distance from light source to sample: 15 cm and 30cm  Specimen Holder/Sample size: Square of (18X18cm) with sample clamping holder on both the sides.and the exposed area of specimen shall be of diameter 150mm .  Filter: Neutral density (ND) filter  Measurement of PAR/Shading %: By Pyranometer

3 4

List of Standards for Agrotextile products We all know standards play a vital role in promotion and growth of a segment/industry. In the context of Agrotextile, in the year 2008 when COE-Agrotech was established by Ministry of Textiles, GoI, there was not even vocabulary for Agrotextiles was existing. COE-Agrotech has worked from scratch for development and promotion of Agro-

IS 15907:2010 (Reaffirmed in 2015) IS 16008 : Part 1:2016 IS 16008 : Part 2:2016

5 6

IS 16089:2017 IS 16190:2014

IS 16202:2014

8 9

IS 16366 :2015 IS 16390 :2015

IS 16513 :2016

IS 16718:2017

IS 17070:2018

Title Agro Textiles - Laminated High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Woven Geomembrane For Water Proof Lining - Specification ( Second Revision ) Agro Textiles - High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Woven Beds For Vermiculture Agro Textiles - Shade Nets For Agriculture And Horticulture Purposes Specification Part 1 Shade Nets Made From Tape Yarns (First Revision) Agro Textiles - Shade Nets For Agriculture And Horticulture Purposes Specification Part 2 Shade Nets Made From Mono Filament Yarns (First Revision) Jute Agro-Textile - Sapling Bags For Growth Of Seedling/Sapling Agro Textiles - High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Laminated Woven Lay Flay Tube For Irrigation Purpose - Specification Argo Textile - Woven Ground Covers For Horticulture Application Specification Glossary Of Terms Used In Agrotextile Agro Textiles - Nylon Knitted Seamless Gloves For Tobacco Harvesters Specification Agro Textiles - Insect Nets For Agriculture And Horticulture Purposes – Specification Agro Textiles – Polypropylene spun bonded non-woven crop cover fabric agricultural and horticultural applications Jute Agrotextile- Needle Punch Nonwoven Mulch

COTTON UPDATE TAKEAWAYS FROM THE AUSTRALIAN COTTON SECTOR Seshadri Ramkumar Professor, Texas Tech University, USA Amidst drought for three years. Australian cotton crop is expected to be about one million bales. An hour-long insightful discussion with Dr. Kater Hake, vice president for agricultural and environmental research at Cary-based Cotton Incorporated, revealed some of the successful management practices adopted by the Australian cotton sector. Hake has just returned from his trip to down under interacting with global cotton industry people and visiting farm country in Dalby region in Queensland, Australia. Australian production this year for the season ending in March 2020 is estimated to range from 0.7 million to 1.3 million bales. While the quantity is significantly down, quality seems to fall within the expected range. As close to all cotton produced is export-

ed predominantly to Asian countries, quality plays a significant role, with tight range in micronaire. Discussions with Dr. Hake revealed four important takeaways: 1) technology adaptation, 2) value-addition to cotton byproducts, 3) water use efficiency and 4) resistance management of Bt traits. With increasing labor costs, Australian cotton farmers are effectively utilizing robotics. Hake pointed out that he had seen herbicide sprayer robots that have weather signaling systems in them. The sprayer senses wind directions and temperature and switches on and off enabling good environmental stewardship. As the Australian crop is irrigated, due to government restrictions in water usage, planting is limited to water availability during the growing season. Australia has no oil crusher for oil; hence, all cottonseed goes to feeding cattle. Interestingly, 25% of the cattle diet is cottonseed, which enriches the

quality of meat, catering to high quality export. Resistance management of Bt traits has helped the industry to have control bollworms. While the resistance issue is not a serious concern in West Texas, other parts of the United States face this situation. Some of the agricultural practices such as shallow tillage to disrupt the pupae is helping the Australian farmers, stated Hake. As the amount of available land in Australia for cotton is limited, with more acreage for cotton here, United States is still the largest and reliable supplier of cotton in the export market. However, cotton growing is expanding to the north and south of traditional growing areas in New South Wales and Queensland, observed Hake. In closing Hake stated, “the production systems between the United States and Australia are similar and the two countries can learn and help each other to move the industry forward.”

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December 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

CLOTHING FROM COCONUT FIBRES Production and Processing –

DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

Fibres are the raw material from which textiles are made for clothing ,household,floor covering and industrial uses . For convenience fibres are generally classified as being either natural or manmade ,that is formed by chemical processes ,usually involving extrusion of the fibre . In 1971 the ‘free ‘ world production of natural fibres was estimated at 17,832,000 tons , while manmade fibres was 8, 415,000 tons . Natural fibre production ,however was stable or increased only slightly in the years 1950- 1971 , while manmade production expanded steadily ,with a fourfold increase in the period . When manmade fibres have relied on petrochemical expansion which is currently in question ,natural fibre production expansion is difficult owing to high production costs and competition for land utilization . The use of natural fibres goes back to the Stone Age when flax and hemp were exploited . Eventually wool ,silk and cotton fibres were discovered and were known to have been in use for several thousand years BC . In mediaeval times wool processing was a major occupation ,but industrial processing ,involving mainly wool and cotton dates from about 1750 . In modern times ,all three natural kingdoms ,animal ,vegetable and mineral ,supply textile fibres . Natural fibres are the essential alternative in the ever expanding horizon of textile fibres . Natural fibres are becoming the essential necessity

December 2019

and are available abundantly . They are non-toxic in nature besides ; the disposal of fibre wastes is easier as they are necessarily biodegradable . Bast fibre and leaf fibre are already in use in plenty in the textile industry. But till date no much work is done on seed and fruit fibres like Coir/Coconut , Tree Cotton, Java Kapok , Balsa fibre , Milkweeds , etc. Coconut is the main crop cultivated in Lakshadweep . It is India ‘s largest producer of coconuts . About 2,598 hectares are under coconut cultivation and the productivity per hectare is 22,310 . Coir fibre producer are based in Tamil Nadu . They export to China, Taiwan , Malaysia. The biggest exporter is Sunco Exporters Pvt Ltd , Pollachi ,Tamil Nadu . Segregation of coir fibre is done in Allepy ,Kerala. Total world coir fibre production is 250,000 tonnes . The coir fibre industry is particularly important in some areas of the developing world . India ,mainly the coastal region of Kerala State , produces 60 % of the total world supply of white coir fibre . Sri Lanka produces 36 % of the total world brown fibre output . Over 50 % of the coir fibre produced annually throughput the world is consumed in the countries of origin , mainly India . Together India and Sri Lanka produce 90 % of the 250,000 metric tons of coir produced every year . As per the Coir Board ,India has a bilateral trade agreement dating back to 1956 with Chile .

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Coir is a coarse fibre which comes from the husks of coconuts . In other words coir is Cocos nucifera and is obtained from the husk surrounding the nut ,that is the fruit of the coconut plant . The husks are quartered and put in large water tanks and weighted with a network of iron rails . After five days the husks are removed and run through a machine composed of two corrugated iron rollers that crushes them and prepares them for the next machine , called the drum . The husks are held against the revolving drums and the spikes tear out the woody part , leaving the long ,coarse fibres separated . The fibres are then made into hanks . Coconuts are the seed of the palm trees . These palms flower on a monthly basis and the fruit takes 1 year to ripen. A typical palm tree has fruit in every stage of maturity .A mature tree can produce 50 – 100 coconuts per year . Coconuts can be harvested from the ground once they have ripened and fallen or they can be harvested while still on the tree . A human climber can harvest approximately 25 trees in a day , while a knife attached to a pole can up the number to 250 trees harvested in a day . Monkeys can also be trained to harvest the coconuts , but this practice is less efficient than other methods .Green coconuts , harvested after about six to twelve months on the plant , contain pliable white fibres . Brown fibre is obtained by harvesting fully mature coconuts when the nutritious layer surrounding the seed is ready to be processed into copra and desiccated coconut . The fibrous layer of the fruit is then separated from the hard shell ( manually) by driving the fruit down onto a spike to split it ( De – husking) . A well seasoned husker can manually separate 2,000 coconuts per day

SUSTAINABLE FIBER . Machines are now available which crush the whole fruit to give the loose fibres . These machines can do up to 2,000 coconuts per hour . The fibrous husks are soaked in pits or in nets in a slow moving body of water to swell and soften the fibres . The long bristle fibres are separated from the shorter mattress fibres underneath the skin of the nut ,a process known as wet-milling . The mattress fibres are shifted to remove dirt and other rubbish ,dried in the sun and packed into bales . Some mattress fibre is allowed to retain more moisture so that it retains its elasticity for ‘twisted ‘ fibre production . The coir fibre is elastic enough to twist without breaking and it holds a curl as though permanently waved . Twisting is done by simply making a rope of the hank of fibre and twisting it using a machine or by hand . The longer bristle fibre is washed in clean water and then dried before being tied into bundles or hunks . It may then be cleaned and ‘ hackled ‘ by steel combs to straighten the fibres and remove any shorter fibre pieces . Coir bristle fibre can also be bleached and dyed to obtain hanks of different colours. The immature husks are suspended in a river or water –filled pit for up to ten months . During this time microorganisms break down the plant tissues surrounding the fibres to loosen them – a process known as retting . Segments of the husk are then beaten by hand to separate out the long fibres which are subsequently dried and cleaned . Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning into yarn using a simple one-handed system or spinning wheel. The coir fibre can be dyed using reactive dyes,vat dyes and sulphur dyes. It can be bleached using hydrogen peroxide. When dyed black , coir fibre looks very much like horse hair. Structure and Properties – It is Coarse . Dark brown colour . Individual fibres short ; 0.5 mm ( 1/50 th inch ) long . Thick walled with irregular lumen . Surface covered with

pores . Coir fibres are found between the husk and the outer shell of a coconut . The individual fibre cells are narrow and hollow ,with thick walls made of cellulose . They are pale when immature but later become hardened and yellowed as a layer of lignin is deposited on their walls . There are two varieties of coir 1. Brown Coir – It is harvested from fully ripened coconuts . It is thick, strong and has high abrasion resistance . It is typically used in mats ,brushes and sacking . Mature brown coir fibres contain more lignin and less cellulose than fibres such as flax and cotton and so are stronger but less flexible.They are made up of small threads ,each about 1mm long and 10 to 20 micrometers in diameter 2. White coir - The fibres are harvested from the coconuts before they are ripe . These fibres are white or light brown in colour and are smoother and finer ,but also weaker . They are generally spun to make yarn that is used in mats or rope . The coir fibre is relatively water – proof and is one of the few natural fibres resistant to damage by salt water . Fresh water is used to process brown coir ,while sea water and fresh water are both used in the production of white coir. In the form in which it is taken from the coconut husk , coir fibre is composed of a number of reddish-brown ,strong,elastic filaments of different lengths, which are thickest in the middle of their length and taper towards the ends : in cross-section they are round or elliptical . The diameter in the middle varies from 0.002 to 0.012 inches. These filaments , however , are each made up of a number of irregularly –thickened ultimate fibre cells which vary in length from about Type of fibre

Tensile strength ( MPa)

Sisal

580

Pineapple

640

Banana

540

Coir

140

0.4 to 1 mm and have a diameter of 5 to 8 microns .

Fibre Properties Uses Coir fibres and yarns are used for making coarse cloths and bristles for brushes. It is used for cordages ,matting, brushes . Coir is also used geo textiles . It provides a low impact and affordable solution to the problems of soil erosion and land sliding . It has been laid along the land adjoining the Konkan Railway track . For natural geo –textiles , coir is still preferred to jute , as it possesses strength , durability and high content of lignin . Moreover , for geotextiles , it is not necessary to have a similar shade of coir yarn. It is used for brush-making ,door mats , fish nets , cordage . Brown coir is used in floor mats and doormats , brushes , mattresses , floor tiles and sacking . A small amount is also made into twine . Pads of curled brown coir fibre , made by needle –felting ( a machine technique that mats the fibres togother ) are shaped and cut to fill mattresses and for use in erosion control on river banks and hill sides . A major proportion of brown coir pads are sprayed with rubber latex which bonds the fibres togother ( rubberized coir) to be used as upholstery padding for the automobile industry in Europe . The material is also used for insulation and packaging. The major use of white coir is in rope manufacture . Mats of woven coir fibre are made from the finer grades of bristle and white fibre using hand or mechanical looms. White coir also used to make fishing nets due to its strong resilience to salt water .

In horticulture , coir is recommended as substitute for sphagnum moss because it is free Elongation ( Toughness of bacteria and %) (MN/m2) fungal spores , 4.3 1250 and is sustain2.4 970 ably produced 3.0 816 without the environmen25.0 3200 tal damage

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December 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER caused by pelt mining . Coconut coir from Mexico has been found to contain large numbers of colonies of the beneficial fungus Aspergillus terreus which acts as a biological control against plant pathogenic fungi. Coir fibres make up about 1/3 of the coconut pulp . The other 2/3 is called the pith or dust , it is biodegradable but takes 20 years to decompose .

Once considered as waste material , coir is now being used as mulch, soil treatment and a hydroponic growth medium . India is promoting through Coir Board various products like Coir geo textiles and Coir Ply besides products like floor mats and coverings. India exports to Chile coir products worth 375.43 tonnes valued at Rs

2.54 crores in 2007. Indian spinning mills should try to add coconut fibre in dyed or grey form along with other cellulosic or synthetic fibre in different proportion and make fancy yarns . It can be tried as a replacement for costly flax and ramie fibres.

YEAR END BIRD’S-EYE VIEW ON COTTON Seshadri Ramkumar

Professor, Texas Tech University, USA Cotton is a natural material, which is pre-sold on comfort and faces competition from other fibers. A year-end tête-à-tête with Professor Eric Hequet, an internationally renowned fiber quality expert at Lubbock-based Texas Tech University provided useful information that may benefit the global textile sector. Focus on quality, providing maximum information on fiber quality and developing new products and markets are some aspects Hequet insisted that the industry should be concentrating. “If the end-users such as spinners could know what they are buying in terms of cotton, it is a big plus,” stated Hequet. United States’ cotton industry has been a leader in providing maximum information on a bale of cotton. Other leading producers such as Brazil and India have started paying attention to providing information. As long as fiber quality evaluation is handled by reliable independent agency such as the Unit-

ed States’ Department of Agriculture classing offices, data’s credibility will be well accepted. Brands are demanding more source information to stay competitive and gain consumer acceptance and hence data dissemination is becoming vital.

help. Labor cost is rising even in some eastern countries, which makes ring spinning expensive. Cotton sector can help by breeding fibers that will suit newer spinning technologies.

Stakeholders’ contribution to the growth of the industry is vital for not only the cotton sector but also holds good for all sectors. Stakeholders need to support “mission-linked,” research for enhancing market share and use-value.

Hequet’s view on what should be the goal for the industry in the next five years included focusing on drought resistance and water efficiency without sacrificing fiber quality. As the global population is on the rise, maintaining cotton’s market share at 30% will enable more use of cotton based on consumption.

To a question from this scribe on what is next for the industry, Hequet stated improving fiber length uniformity, strength and finding new applications should be the task. He highlighted the growing interest in vortex spinning, which necessitates the need for length and strength improvement. The surface structure of these yarns are on par with ring spun yarns, but the internal structure is week. Therefore, fiber strength improvement to 40-42 grams/tex will

The biodegradability aspect has to be effectively handled by the industry both for developing new biomaterials and for marketing. For past few years, I have been advocating focusing our attention beyond, yield and quality such as creating new value-added products--this aspect came out clear in the discussion with Professor Hequet. With 38-years of experience in the cotton sector starting as a breeder in Chad, Hequet ended with a positive note that cotton is here to stay.

VIETNAM TEXTILE SECTOR ORDERS HIT BY AFRICAN COMPETITION. Vietnamese textile firms are witnessing declining orders as buyers are moving to cheaper developing countries, especially in Africa. Many businesses this year do not have enough orders for 2020, with a few have reported a 20 per cent drop in orders from last year. Many have not signed

December 2019

long-term contracts for products, but only monthly or quarterly ones. Normally, by the end of a year they would have enough orders for the whole of the following year, according to Nguyen Van Thoi, chairman of TNG Investment and Trading JSC, which makes garments.

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An anonymous Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS) official told a Vietnamese newspaper that many orders have shifted to emerging countries in Africa, while competition with textiles superpowers like China, India and Bangladesh is becoming increasingly fierce.

YARN REPORT BASIC TEXTILES EXPORT CONTINUED TO TREND DOWN NITIN MADKAIKAR

fourth largest market folTextile Beacon lowed by Turkey. No shipment was done to Pakistan, which was one In November, shipment of basic texof the largest importer of Indian cottile comprising fibres, spun and filaton in re-cent months and had imment yarns declined 21% YoY both in ported 3.22 lakh bales in November terms of US$ and INR worth US$582 2018. million or INR4,114 crore, accounting for about 2.2% of total merchan- Yarn Export dise exported from India during the Spun yarns shipment totaled 118 milmonth. A year ago, the same group lion kg (up 5%) worth US$3187 million of basic textiles had accounted over (down 5%) or INR2,247 crore (down 2.8% of total merchandised export. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ strengthen an average of INR72.00 to INR70.61 this November. Cotton Export The second month of new cotton marketing year 2019-20, November extended the impressive show of the first month, despite production estimates showed a high harvest this year. In October, only 4.85 lakh bales were shipped worth US$130 million or INR917 crore. This implied an average realization of US cents 71.27 per pound or INR111 a kg, during the month. This was much lower than Cotlook A index and slightly below average spot prices for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6 cotton variety. Bang-

6.5%). The unit value realization of all basic textiles averaged US$2.70 per kg, lower by US cents 27 from a year ago and US cents 6 from previous month. China remerged as the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value, despite falling year on year basis. Cotton yarn export was 95 million kg worth US$257 million (INR1,818 crore), down 30% from a year ago level. 73 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$2.72 a kg, down US cents 7 from previous month and US cents 28 from a year ago.

ladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in November, followed by China and Indonesia. Vietnam was

China was the top cotton yarn importer, but imported 1% lesser volume and paying 12% less in value terms this November. During the month, export to China was 30 million kg worth US$70 million. China was fol-lowed by Bangladesh with

volume and value increasing 21% and 9% respectively, year on year. Egypt and Portugal were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 14% increase in value and latter jumping 25%. 12 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this November as they had im-ported yarn worth US$2.80 million worth in November 2018. Pakistan has started importing yarn, although a meagre volume, from India after a gap of two months. However, the 12 lost markets were replaced by 12 others which imported yarn worth US$1.17 million. Argentina was the major new market this month. Nepal, Montenegro, South Africa, Canada and Greece were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in November, Hong Kong, Lebanon and United Arab Emirates significantly reduced their imports com-pared to last year. 100% man-madefibre yarns exports jumped 27% in November reversing the continuous declines over the past few previous months. They comprised 3 million kg of viscose yarn, 3 million kg of polyester yarn and 1.9 million kg of acrylic yarn. The rise was led by viscose yarn, which almost doubled in terms of volume and 64% in value. Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$7.32 million and were exported to 46 countries at average unit price of US$2.26 a kg, down US cents 10 from last year. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed distantly by USA and Russia. Viscose yarn worth US$8.6 million or INR619 crore was exported at an average price of US$2.82 per kg in November to 29 countries. Iran was the top importer worth US$1.32 million, followed closely by Turkey and UAE. Bangladesh was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the

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December 2019

YARN REPORT month. Blended spun yarns worth US$39 million were exported in November, down 7% YoY. During the month, 9.5 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$21.5 million while 3.7 million kg of PV yarns were exported

worth US$10 million. Egypt was the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Brazil emerged as the second largest market for PC yarn followed by Colombia. Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Bra-

zil. All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 65 million kg (up 20% YoY), valued at US$98 million (down 1.3%. YoY). Only nylon filament yarn exports were up in value terms and also showed substantial increases.

POLYESTER FIBRE PRICES EASE IN NOVEMBER Polyester staple fibre prices eased a bit further in November in China, India and Pakistan as upstream feedstock values fluctuated amid availability tightness against expectation for lengthening supply for forward months. With multiple units going offline in China for maintenance amid shrinking margins, polyester fibre markets were well supported. With the earlier-than-usual Spring Festival in 2020 drawing closer, demand for fibre entered into a traditional downward trajectory due to limited demand. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF edged down further at to US$0.95-0.96, down US cent 4 in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down at US$0.96-0.97 a kg. Export offers were at US$0.95 a kg FOB NE Asia, while workable discussions were at US$0.90-0.91 a kg FOB NE Asia. In Pakistan, 1.4D PSF offers fell to PakRs6 to PakRs.181-185 a kg (US$1.181.20 a kg). In India, producers’ offers were revised down INR1.50 for November to INR85.00 a kg (US$1.19 a kg) for 1.2D and for 1.4-2D to INR84.25 a kg (US$1.18 a kg).

Nylon Nylon staple fiber saw moderate sales and prices were lowered in early November although some pick in demand was seen at month-end. In China, 1.5D offers were down US cents 12 at the lower end and down US cents 9 at the upper end to range US$2.01-2.12 a kg.

Acrylic Acrylic staple fibre markets saw pric-

December 2019

es lowered in line with the slump in acrylonitrile cost and fading downstream demand. In China, reference prices for cotton-type staple fiber, tow and top were cut significantly by 7% to stimulate demand and as cost pressure eased further. Downstream users began to stock up small volumes and market were covered by wait-and-watch sentiment. The industry run rate was stable at 57% during the month. In Pakistan, no change was reported for acrylic fibre offers in Karachi market. In India, producers ended the week and the month with same offer but have reduced their indications dramatically for December, with the intention of passing on cost reduction and to induce buying interest. Overall, with declining feedstock and flat demand, offers are expected to maintain stable in the short run. Offers for Taiwan origin 3D bright acrylic fibre tow were down US cents 9 on the month at US$1.88-1.93 a kg. In China, medium-length and cottontype acrylic fibre prices also down US cents 2 to US$2.09-2.13 a kg. In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF offers in Karachi market were lowered to PakRs.350 a kg (US$2.25 a kg, down US cents 12 from October). In India, producers retained their offers until end November at INR161.50-162.00 a kg (US$2.25-2.26 a kg).

hard to conclude, as downstream yarn mills were mainly engaged in clearing stocks towards as the year end approaches amid weak downstream performance. In Pakistan, overseas offers for viscose fibre in Karachi market were down but weak US$ negated some fall. Downstream demand was weak during the week. In India, producers’ offers were unchanged seeing demand hard to improve while raw material cost was still firm. Any downward revision may squeeze margins. Overall, going ahead, viscose fibre market sentiment will remain calm, with limited changes in prices expected in the short run. Offers for medium end VSF fell Us cents 5-7 to average US$1.47-1.50 a kgwhile high end goods were at US$1.53-1.56 a kg, down US cents 4. In Pakistan, offers from overseas were reduced mid-November in Karachi market. 1.5D VSF down at PakRs240-245a kg (US$1.56-1.759a kg, down US cents 15). In India, producers’ offers remained unchanged for November. Producers offer for 1.21.5D were maintained at INR195-197 a kg (US$2.72-2.75 a kg).

Viscose Viscose staple fibre markets were quiet and prices moderated during November in China and Pakistan while they rolled over in India and Taiwan. In China, fresh deals were

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SURAT REPORT

The textile powerloom weavers, who are facing working capital problem may get some relief. Textile Commissioner Molloy Chandan Chakraborty has assured weavers to release a fund of 400 crore out of the remaining subsidy of by end of 2019. He has asked weavers to clear the query submitted by the Commissionerate on the i-TUF portal. The release of this fund will provide relief to the long-suffering weavers from the problem of working capital. These fund will also helps to upgrade machinery, boost job creation and textile exports. Under the TUF Scheme, the subsidy of many powerloom weavers across the country is due since 2016. A special committee has been formed for the scheme, which has met twice this year. However, the pending tuff application has not yet been resolved. Last week, the weavers of Surat was invited by the Textile Commissioner to redress the issue of pending TUF subsidy. Mayur Golwala, former secretery of weavers association, said the textile commissioner listen the issue and assured to release a fund of 400 crores under TUF scheme by the end of year. He has asked to clear the query generated by the department on the I-TUF portal. Golwala said that information will be given to entrepreneurs about this so that funds can be made available immediately. The textile commissionerate is preparing to start the emergency clearance window to to clear pending application under TUF subsidy. Industry sources said that the union

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ministry of textiles has reduced the fund allocation under the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund (ATUF) scheme for 2019-20. The ATUFS allocation has been slashed from Rs 2,300 crore in 2018-19 to Rs 700 crore in 2019-20. The reduction of ATUFS allocation will hamper the modernisation process in the sector. Presently, the powerloom weavers have been shifting towards imported machineries for fabric weaving including water jet, air jet and jacquard machines for increasing productivity and saving costs. Various textile associations are demanding increase in fund allocation under this scheme. In order to boost the textile sector, government subsidy under ATUFS is needed. If government releases 400 crore subsidy under TUF, it will be as big relief for the weavers.

SGCCI to organise textile exhibition, “SITME” from January 3-5, 2020 The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) and Surat Embroidery Association(SEA) are jointly organising Suart International Textile and Machinery Expo ‘SITME’, from January 3-5, 2020 at the Surat International Exhibition and Convention Centre (SIECC). The exhibition will display weaving, knitting, processing, garment making machinery, sewing machinery, embroidery machinery, CAD CAM, cutting machine, Laser technologies, thread/ yarn/fiber and fabrics, spare parts and accessories. There are more than 100 exhibitors showcasing the latest technologies across the entire textile value on more than 100,000 square feet of exhibition area. The fair will see participation from Indian and global textile

machinery companies. Machines for weaving preparatory, tufting, braiding, washing, bleaching, dyeing and printing, drying, finishing will remain centre for attraction. SGCCI is also organising buyer-seller meets to help buyers and sellers interact at the venue.

Surat’s designer sarees and garments glitters in “Bonaro” exhibition A unique collection of Surat’s designer sarees and attractive garments shines in “Bonaro”, a textile exhibition held in Pink city Jaipur on 28-29 December. “R.J. Vastra Utsav-Bonaro” was organised by Rajesh Kothari, textile entrepreneurs of Surat. In this display, apart from Value Added Synthetic Fabrics of Surat, the range of shooting and shirting was also remain center of attraction. Talking about the program, Rajesh Kothari and Bharat Haryanvi said that the two-days ‘Bonaro’ exhibition featured designer garments in various 72 stalls on the same platform. More than four thousand businee persons participated the event. An attractive range of shooting and shirting was presented by the well-known Siyaram brand. There was a display of 19 thousand products of different varieties. Apart from saris, a large range of wearable garments like lehenga, dress, gown, curtain fabric, exclusive value added fabrics were presented by various companies from Surat. A fashion show was also organized by various 10 brands on 29 December. The wholesale and retail traders of various textile industries across the country took part in this grand exhibition. After Jaipur, a similar exhibition will be organized in Madhya Pradesh in the coming time.

The ultimate resource in economic development is People. It is People, not capital or raw materials that develop an economy. Peter Drucker www.textilevaluechain.com

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Textile Commissionerate assured to release 400 crore TUF subsidy under condition

December 2019

EVENT REPORT

December 2019

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EVENT REPORT

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December 2019

EVENT REPORT

INDIA CHINA TEXTILE CO-OPERATION FORUM India China Textile Co-operation Forum was organized on 11th December 2019 at Matchmaking Lounge of Hall No. 1 at Bombay Exhibition Center, Goregaon from 2.00 pm to 5.00 pm The Forum began with Mr. Arvind Sinha, Ex-president of Textile Association of India who set the tone with his speech talking about merits of collaborative approach between India and China. He also mentioned China has come a big way as far as textile and apparel industry is concerned taking largest pie of the industry as far as total trade is concerned and this growth is phenomenon which has happened in past three decades. Gradually they have increased their stake and reached to this stage.

Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO of M/s Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd, while speaking on his topic ‘Possibilities of joint collaborations, importers of Textile Machines, Dyes Stuffs and Fabric from China’ said that we Indians have to accept China as a “big brother.” He also stressed on the point that there is no culture of dedication and commitments towards work in Indian Textile industry hence we lack in efficiencies. We need to have collaborative approach in between two countries to achieve common goals. He stressed upon further stating that India has it’s large strength of processing cotton based products in the international market hence India can supply cotton based technical textiles, hand loom products, grey fabrics to China.

December 2019

Similarly, China can supply high quality garments back to India. China also excels in digital printing & machinery manufacturing as well as creating huge scale of economy and appropriate large size infrastructure. There can be arrangements of such bilateral trade in between the two countries. As far as machinery sale is concerned, both the countries have good scope for various machines for e.g. China is very strong in sewing, embroidery, digital printing & weaving machines along with some wet processing machines whereas India is strong in spinning machines and some processing machines. Mr. Mayekar also said that both countries should understand their strengths and weaknesses and accept whatever is required to benefit both countries. Mr. Manish Daga who owns brand Cotton Guru informed about the importance of cultivation of clean cotton, what things needs to be done and how India is progressing in this particular field and both the countries have opportunity to close on the entire world. The panel discussion on the topic ‘Importance of Indo-China Textile Co-operations’ included panelist like Mr. Avinash Mayekar - MD & CEO Suvin Advisors, Mr. Subhash Bhargav - Chairman & Managing Director Colorant, Mr. Manish Dagga – Managing Director Cotton Group and Mr. Hemant Sonare – Group Director for Wanjari Group of Institutes along with Mr. Arvind Sinha as the moderator.

On India China Cooperation possibilities According to Mr. Manish Daga, China is exporting thousands of items to world & India whereas India exports very few items to China. Being similar climatic conditions & crops to grow are also similar, but China has capitalized on the economics of strain and also on research, development and value addition. India needs to learn this from China. India has benefit of availability of raw material, skill sets and low labour cost. India & China should join hands together with their strengths. Mr. Subhash Bhargav said that India & China altogether is having 1/3rd of world’s population. China’s economy development is in two digit for last so many years whereas India’s economy is developing with single digit. Also chemical market is progressive in India and Indians are very good in having quality of effluent treatment plant manufactured, control and disposal of dyes and chemicals. He further added China as well as India are facing social and environmental issues and hence both countries can come together to sort the issues. Mr. Hemant Sonare was impressed that discussion was on cooperation instead of comparison between India & China. India has strength of cotton based products and complete value addition can be done in India. He further added if Quality from India & Quantity form China collaborates, these two countries will be driver of world economy. Mr. Sinha told that the China is having huge manufacturing capacities which are running at 45% -50% only. If utilization increases by 7% - 10%, half of world production will stop The session was concluded by giving momento’s to all speakers and panelists as a token of appreciation.

L to R: Mr. Hemant Sonare, Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Mr. Arvind Sinha, Mr. Manish Dagga and Mr. Subhash Bhargav

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EVENT REPORT Highlights The positive market trend in the immediate run-up to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest filtration show also characterised the course of FILTECH 2019 in Cologne and made for an excellent mood amongst the 428 exhibitors. With 16,500 participants over 3 days FILTECH 2019 has clearly exceeded all expectations and set a strong signal for further growth of the world-wide filtration and separation sector. Companies reported an overwhelming number of contacts, a marked willingness amongst trade visitors to invest, promising new business contacts from all over the world, quite specific contract negotiations and concrete

Visitors Update

business deals.

At FILTECH 2019 67,8% of all foreign guests came from Europe. A substantial increase was registered in the number of trade visitors from France, India, South Korea, Russia, Turkey, Brazil, Hungary, Slovenia, Scandinavia and Tunesia. At FILTECH 2019 more than 58% of the trade visitors came from outside Germany. The experts came from 75 nations and all continents. 32,3% of all international guests came from non-european countries making the Show an intercultural experience and a unique platform for exhibitors to generate new business.

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December 2019

PRODUCT INNOVATION

WHAT IS SPACER FABRIC? Spacer is a highly breathable, cushioned, multi-faceted fabric, used in the practical making of a wide variety of products.

Using ASTM D737, the standard test method for air permeability of textile fabrics, air was drawn through both knit fabrics and Spacer fabrics. While the knit fabrics received only a 10.7 cfm (cubic feet per minute), Spacer Fabrics received a 99.1 cfm, meaning it was almost 10 times more permeable than regular knit fabrics.

How is it made? Understanding the creation and production process of Spacer fabric is paramount to understanding what Spacer fabric actually is. Unlike regular, 2D fabrics, Spacer uses two separate fabrics, joined by microfilament yarn, to create a breathable, 3D “microclimate” between layers. Heat and vapor leave the body, moving to this highly permeable layer. Then, the cool air provided by this naturally ventilating pushes out the heat and vapor, providing temperature control and maximum air circulation.

December 2019

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Where is it used? Spacer fabric is everywhere! Found in tennis shoes, backpacks, car seat cushions, bras, this fabric’s naturally ventilating properties make it perfect for everyday use. Additionally, Spacer’s soft and cushiony nature reduces force, making it ideal for surfaces of pro-longed rest. Because it is lighter and breathes better than traditional mattresses, many European countries have replaced spring and foam with Spacer fabric.

PRODUCT INNOVATION

STEFAN DIEZ DESIGNS A LIGHTING COLLECTION FOR VIBIA BASED ON A CONDUCTIVE, YET FLEXIBLE TEXTILE CORD Munich-based designer Stefan Diez draws inspiration from the simple strap that holds luggage in place on a car roof rack or a bicycle carrier to create Plusminus for Barcelona lighting brand Vibia. The new lightingcollection utilizes the properties of a textile strap in combination with the various light shades of the collection to generate different lighting models and moods.

sources of the collection to bring light wherever it is required “With such an electric conductive strip we can do a lot of nice things,” says Diez. Plusminus is defined by its formal variety that combines textiles and hard elements with a versatile result. “You can do it along the wall, you can do it hanging down,” providing a lighting system based on elements that can be easily added to or removed from the strap at will. The collection includes four light sources that can be attached to the strap to generate different lighting effects; a soft rounded lampshade that provides a downlight effect. The classic glass globe version that glows which is available in two different sizes. A linear model that consists of a thin meter long light strip that can

attached to the strap and can be angled as required.

The strap itself can be cut to length using a simple scissors and adapted to any décor using different colour threads and patterns woven into its width while the shades are manufactured using glass as well as aluminium which are available in several powder coated shades of earthy and metallic tones.

From taught to slack the strap which is both the support system and the electrical conduit traces different configurations in the air that together with the shades generate bespoke sculptural lighting installations. To achieve the successful technical resolution of the system Diez worked with a Berlin-based institute in order to come up with a textile strap that would allow the conduit of an electrical current through its entire length. This strap is then used in different ways to attach the various light

flexible spotlight version that is also

be attached to the strap. And a highly

A range of accessories including an anchor clamp that holds the strap in place, suitable for floors, walls or ceilings, is the key to the collections noteworthy versatility. The defining element, the strap, is both an attractive feature and the way in which the lights are connected to the current and one another.

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December 2019

NEWS

TEXTILE MINISTRY GAZETTE NOTIFICATION NO.14/26/2016-IT (VOL II) DATED 07.3.2019 (ROSCTL) FOR PROMOTION OF TEXTILE EXPORTS. Summary: Delegation of Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) Shri Anant Srivastava and Shri Vikas Singh Chauhan met with Textile Secretary, G.O.I Shri Ravi Capoor at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi on 17.12.2019 regarding Textile Ministry Gazette Notification No.14/26/2016-IT (Vol II) dated 07.3.2019(RoSCTL) for promoting Textile Exports. Representatives of Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) Shri Anant Srivastava and Shri Vikas Singh Chauhan met with Textile Secretary, G.O.I Shri Ravi Capoor at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi on dated 17.12.2019 at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi. Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) is continuously working for the benefit and safeguarding the interests of Small and Medium Exporters in Textile sector. By way of this memorandum, the office bearers of the Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) wish to bring to your kind notice a crucial point. It is a well-known fact that due to various Global factors there is a sense of slowdown and the Indian Exports are going down despite bulk orders available with the Indian Exporters. The Indian Textile Exporters have already lost the opportunity to sell out

there products in the international markets on the eve of pre-Christmas 2019.

tification dated 07.03.2019 and also due to suspension of MEIS scheme since August 2019.

Indian textile exporters are facing a liquidity crunch on the account of nonpayment of RoSCTL and suspension of MEIS scheme payments after August-2019 till date. And further there is no clarification from the government bodies regarding resumption of MEIS .

On the contrary the foreign Exporters have a clear-cut picture regarding the costing of their products and the subsidy/benefits that they can receive from their governments which enables them to quote profitable rates in the International markets.

Even in the pinching conditions of trade, the Indian textile exporter is once again making its mind to procure orders for summer sale from foreign markets Indian textile exYEAR porters have already planned 2009-2010 their visits to at- 2010-2011 tend the forth2011-2012 coming International Trade 2012-2013 Fair in Germany, 2013-2014 which is to be 2014-2015 organized in the 2015-2016 month of January 2020 for booking 2016-2017 future (summer) 2017-2018 orders but they 2018-2019 are not in a position to spread 2019-2020 their costing as they have not received a single penny even after 9 months from the already rolled out scheme of RoSCTL vide Gazette No-

Due to on-going US and China Trade War we are having a great opportunity to grab the International market and get the bulk orders. Last five year DGICS Data shows that Export growth is sluggish from last 5

EXPORTS INR

GROWTH%

1,166,282.20 1,412,867.22

21.14%

1,893,042.53

33.99%

2,198,749.41

16.15%

2,704,017.73

22.98%

2,840,596.25

5.05%

3,001,599.19

5.67%

3,155,505.29

5.13%

3,230,702.05

2.38%

3,676,823.96

13.81%

2121890.69

year and the present year i.e. 2019-20 growth is also not up to the mark and showing downward trends.

GST ON WOVEN, NON-WOVEN PLASTIC BAGS, SACKS RAISED TO 18%. India’s Goods and Services Tax (GST) Council yesterday held its 38th meeting in New Delhi and recommended raising the GST rate on woven and non-woven bags and sacks of polyethylene or polypropylene (PP) strips

December 2019

or the like (laminated or otherwise) used for packing of goods from 12 per cent to 18 per cent uniformly. This change shall be effective from January 1.

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The meeting was chaired by finance minister Nirmala Sitharaman and attended by the minister of state for finance and corporate affairs Anurag Thakur, according to an official press release.

NEWS

APPLIED DNA SCIENCES AND RELIANCE INDUSTRIES SIGN MOU

Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. (NASDAQ: APDN) (“Applied DNA”), a leader in large-scale PCR-based DNA manufacturing and authentication, announced today that it has signed a non-binding memorandum of understanding (the “MOU”) with Reliance Industries Ltd. (“RIL”) to develop and commercialize apparel made from RIL’s R|Elan GreenGold® fabric and Recron GreenGold® recycled polyester fiber and filament powered by CertainT. The collaboration as set forth in the MOU, provides for potentially extending, apparel manufacturing using R|Elan GreenGold®, and the use of recycled polyester through Recron GreenGold into consumer and industrial applications, in the global markets. Applied DNA has already demonstrated with its supply chain partners, full end-to-end traceability by tagging over 20 million lbs of recycled polyester, testing of hundreds of samples, and tracking of forensically authenticated products from fiber to finished goods. Commercial products are sold in over 4,000 US retail stores, with expansion into international markets before the end of 2019. Prior to the signing of the MOU, Applied DNA and RIL had tagged recycled polyester at RIL’s facilities in India in successful proof-of-concept studies. Under the MOU, samples will be tested both on-site and at Applied DNA’s laboratory in Ahmedabad. The groundwork for commercial scale-up for DNA production for manufacture

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of CertainT tagged staple fiber and filament yarn is underway. Joint marketing will support sales and business development in US and European markets. “At Reliance, we believe that sustainability with traceability is a must and not a maybe. We aim to be an industry leader in sustainability for recycled polyester, and that is why we believe CertainT is the best solution,” stated Hemant Sharma, Head Polyester Business, RIL. As there is much uncertainty related to the use of post-consumer recycled polyester to make sustainability product claims, brands and retailers can be confident that their products marketed and sold as 100% recycled are proven with forensic assurance and authentication. “Our R|Elan brand is growing in apparel and it is used by brands such as Arrow, Lee, Wrangler, Raymond, Anita Dongre. Kappa and many more. These brands now have the option of to add CertainT forensic traceability to assure that their products are sustainable, traceable and authentic,” stated Gunjan Sharma, Chief Marketing Officer – Polyester Business, RIL. “Eco-friendly” , “natural”, “green”, “organic” are typical sustainable claims and labels that can be confusing and misleading to consumers. Whilst more companies and key opinion leaders are espousing to be “green” through advertising and marketing, how do we know for sure that they are actually implementing business

practices that minimize environmental impact? “Without Applied DNA’s proprietary molecular tagging system, the uncertainty, and risk is too high and the burden of proof is much harder for brands and retailers. So we are very excited to bring a solution that we believe can truly make a difference for the planet, the people and our processes,” added Gunjan Sharma. RIL’s Recron GreenGold fiber is made from 100% used PET bottles. It has one of the lowest fiber carbon footprints globally. Sustainable feedstock developments include modern inhouse manufacturing for recycling waste PET bottles into sustainable fashion solutions. Eco-friendly manufacturing to ensure maximum water is recycled (up to 90%) and all water re-used in manufacturing and horticulture. Reliance operates a stateof-the-art water effluent treatment process system consistent with their zero waste concept that all material is either used in process or sold in market. “Reliance is a key partner for us because you can trust that the postconsumer recycled polyester process is meticulously managed from bottle to fiber, and that scalability is done in a fully controlled environment. Secure chain of custody is a true value addition to the supply chain, and CertainT tagged recycled polyester provides indelible stamp of approval that many brands and manufacturers need,” stated Dr. James A. Hayward, President and CEO, Applied DNA Sciences.

Never Dream for Success but Work for it. www.textilevaluechain.com

‘‘

MOU lays the groundwork for potential commercial implementation

December 2019

NEWS

PERIOD PANTIES SET FOR EXPONENTIAL GROWTH, BRIEFS TO REMAIN BESTSELLER THROUGH 2029

A study suggests that the global period panties market revenues will exceed US$ 100 Mn by the end of 2020, led by significant sales in North America. In the backdrop of massive environmental impact of disposable menstrual products that has been a longstanding concern, the market for period panties is witnessing strong growth in preference for reusable period panties. Key Takeaways - Period Panties Market Study • North America will continue to lead its way in the global period panties market, as a result of growing preference of North American consumers for sustainable menstrual hygiene products. •Prominent manufacturers of period panties in North America are focused on period panty technology that aims to help women effectively deal with leakage, incontinence, and stains. •In terms of style, briefs hold a leading share in the global period panties market. Briefs are comfortable,

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have good coverage, and suitable for heavy flow days. Their sales are prominent among working women and athletes. • Preference for brief period panties for the white vaginal discharge will also remain a pivotal factor boosting sales. • Hipster style period panties currently account for a significant market share, as they stylish yet comfortable, and offer adequate coverage. Women in rural areas still face the challenges while managing menses and the associated hygiene at school, home, workplaces, and public settings. Various organizations such as UNICEF (The United Nations Children’s Fund) and NHM (National Health Mission) are thus introducing schemes and establishing offices in developing countries to raise awareness about menstrual health and hygiene (MHH) management practices. This would be a pivotal booster to market growth in developing Asian economies. Raising Consumer Awareness - Key to Better Penetrate Developing Countries To address the need of menstrual hygiene among women and adolescent girls in rural areas, governments across various countries are taking initiatives and providing funds to promote menstrual products such as period panties. Governments are also ensuring access to and use of high quality menstrual products by

women in rural areas along with ensuring the safe disposal of products in an environmentally friendly way. Social media also plays a significant role in increasing awareness among women about the various problems associated with traditional menstrual products. This will argue well for the period panties market in the long run. The degrading effect on the environment while disposable menstrual products will necessitate a mass shift towards sustainable products such as period panties at a global level. What Are Brands up to? The report highlights some prominent players in the global period panties market, which include Flux, Period Panteez, Lunapads International, Clovia, Dear Kate Inc., Yashram Lifestyle, Fannypants LLC, Pantyprop, Knixwear, WUKA, Anigan, Modibodi, Thinx, Harebrained, and others. Market players are primarily focused on various marketing campaigns to promote their products and create brand awareness among consumers. • For instance, Anigan, Inc. provides menstrual education and hygiene care education to women from all walks of life and to make them aware about menstrual feminine hygiene • FLUX utilizes the strategy of crowdfunding campaigns, which is another way of raising funds and introducing their products in the market

Innovation is an inexhaustible engine for economic developement.

December 2019

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Moving beyond traditional menstrual hygiene products, period panties have been creating a buzz over the recent past. Currently receiving strong support from favorable government initiatives regarding awareness about feminine hygiene and menstrual healthcare, the global period panties market will observe stellar growth prospects over the forecast period (2019 - 2029).

NEWS

MONFORTS ‘DENIMIZED’ CUSTOMERS TAKE THE LEAD IN LONDON

Of the twelve participating denim mills who took part in Habitat 21 – a special Smart Creation showcase at the recent Denim Première Vision exhibition in London – no less than eleven were valued Monforts ‘Denimized’ finishing technology users. The aim of Habitat 21 was to highlight those companies taking an ecoresponsible approach to denim manufacturing via the use of recycled, organic and bio-based fibres, in combination with resource-saving dyeing and finishing technologies. Monforts customers involved in the project were Advance Denim, Berto, Bossa, Calik, Evlox/Tavex, Kilim, Naveena, Orta Anadalou, Rajby Industries, Raymond Uco and Soorty. Their innovations were detailed in a major presentation on trends for the Spring/Summer 2021 season by Manon Mangin of the Première Vision Fashion Team, based on three key themes – Sensation, Hybridisation and Expansion.

Water savings There was plenty of sustainable innovation on show from Turkey, with Bossa, for example, unveiling the latest creations from its ongoing Reset programme – first introduced in 2006 and constantly evolving its ecofriendly options – and Calik exhibiting a denim collection made with its Dclear process, via which water is reduced by 40% in indigo dyeing and by 83% in the subsequent finishing.

Kilim is meanwhile intending to reduce water by 93% as a result of its current Cactus project, which will have a significant impact on the footprint of the 12 million metres of denim it makes annually, and in addition to resource-saving processes, Orta Anadalou is committing to complete traceability, with each of its garments now labelled with a unique QR code.

Hemp Among innovations from Pakistan’s leading mills, Naveena made a splash with the introduction of its ‘cottonised’ hemp denim, developed in a collaboration with Kingdom Holdings – one of the largest manufacturers of hemp in China – in order to reduce the company’s reliance on cotton. There are many challenges involved in working with hemp, Naveena says, but vertically-integrated spinning operations have enabled it to create blended yarns of cotton, hemp and Tencel containing only 49% cotton. Both Rajby Industries and Soorty have now achieved Cradle to Cradle Gold certification for denim fabrics in their collections, as a globally recognised measure of safer, more sustainable products made for the circular economy. To receive this certification, products are assessed for environmental and social performance across five critical sustainability categories – material health, material reuse, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. The standard encourages continuous improvement over time by awarding certification on the basis of ascending levels of achievement and requiring certification renewal every two years.

Aniline free Advance Denim has meanwhile be-

come the first denim mill in China to launch a collection made with anilinefree indigo. As a result of its toxicity, analine is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some of the major clothing brands and retailers. During traditional indigo dyeing process, some aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric, while the remainder is discharged with the wastewater. The new process being employed by Advance Denim is based on an aniline-free indigo formulation from Switzerland’s Archroma. Italy’s Berto also introduced pre-reduced indigo dyeing in an expanded range of denims based on GOTS-certified fabrics made with organic cotton and regenerated yarns. “Our latest collection was inspired by young people – the Z Generation that is free spirited but at the same time involved in the fight against climate change,” said Berto’s marketing manager Francesco Polato. “We are seeking to meet their needs with an extroverted collection characterised by special colours and looks, but always with a 360-degree attention to sustainability.” To complete the Smart Creation showcase, India’s Raymond Uco introduced a coloured denim range comprising fabrics that are both yarn dyed and made from sustainable dyestuffs, to significantly reduce the use of chemicals, while Evlox/Tavex announced plans to introduce postconsumer recycled denim to its collections, with complete traceability of all the materials used. Denim Première Vision took place at the Printworks in London on December 2nd and 3rd. The next edition will be held in Milan in June 2020.

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December 2019

NEWS

DUE TO THE HIGH DEMAND FOR ITM 2020, EFFORTS TO ADDITIONAL NEW HALLS CONTINUE The ITM 2020 Exhibition, which has reached full occupancy rate in almost all of the halls, continues to attract great interest from the world textile technology manufacturers. The ITM 2020, which will be held on 2020 from June 2 to 6, will be organized by Teknik Fairs Inc. and TÜYAP Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım Inc. in partnership and with cooperation of TEMSAD (Textile Machinery and Accessories Industrialists’Association) is awaiting with great enthusiasm by its exhibitors and visitors. It is already clear that the ITM Exhibition, which set a record in terms of both the number of exhibitors and visitors in 2018, will continue its success in the next year. Due to the intense demand for ITM 2020, which continues to grow by increasing the number and space of the exhibitors, there is no more empty space in some halls.

December 2019

Additional list prepared due to heavy demand As the pre-reservation are approaching 100% occupancy, an additional list has been created for the purpose of evaluating new requests to ITM 2020. In this list, there are many exhibitors who want to make a reservation. Due to lack of space in some halls, work was started to open new areas. ITM 2020 prepares to keep the pulse of the textile industry ITM is one of the world’s most important exhibition in the region and is the best venue for the textile market to meet with investors since it acts as a bridge between the western and eastern countries and is held in Turkey, a textile hub. ITM exhibitions, which have turned into a textile technology show with the participation and visits of hun-

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dreds of manufacturers that develops leading technologies for textile sector and global investors are also preparing to keep the pulse of the sector next year.

Intense interest in HIGHTEX 2020 HIGHTEX 2020, which will be held for the 8th time with simultaneously ITM 2020 Exhibition, attracts great interest from its participants. Applications for the HIGHTEX 2020, which has reached full occupancy rate in almost all the halls, continue. At the exhibition, where meet technical textile technologies and nonwoven industry leaders; technical textile, nonwoven raw materials, intermediate products and final goods and production technologies will be introduced. HIGHTEX 2020 Exhibition, which attracted great attention, will be witness many collaborations for five days.

SHOW CALENDAR JANUARY 2020 7-10

10-13

HEIMTEXTIL 2020 Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

GTE New Delhi,India http://garmenttechnologyexpo.com/

12-13

SGI Dubai 2020 Dubai World Trade Center/Dubai https://www.signmiddleeast.com/

20-24

Udyog 2020 Surat / India www.udyog.sgcci.in

30-31

NGF 2020 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in

Yarn Expo 2020 Shanghai / China yarnexpo.com.cn

DOMOTEX 2020 Hannover / Germany www.domotex.de

10-13

11-13

Intertextile Shanghai Shanghai / China https://intertextileapparel.hk.messefrankfurt. com/

11-13

Intertextile Shanghai Home textile Shanghai / China https://intertextilehome.hk.messefrankfurt. com/

11-13

Premier Vision Paris / Franc www.premierevision.com

11-13

CHIC -2020 http://enmar.chicfair.com/

11-13

PH Value 2020 Shanghai / China http://vis.eastfair.com/

FEBRUARY 2020 2-4

INDA 2020 North Carolina/USA http://www.inda.org/

13-15

HOMETEX TECH EXPO 2020 HARYANA /India http://essentialtradefairs.com/

5-6

Textile Opporctunities 2020 UK Worcs, WR9 8ED/UK https://www.technical-textiles.net

17-19

IND TEXPO Coimbatore / India www.ind-texpo.com

6-8

YFA Haryana/INDIA http://www.yfatradeshow.com/

24 -27 IMIS -2020 NC 27518/USA imis.co.in/

IPF Bangladesh 2020 Dhaka/Bangladesh https://www.eventseye.com/

April 2020

12-15

14-16 ITME AFRICA 2020 Ethopia / Africa www.itme-africa.com 20-23

26-28

27-29

DTG 2020 Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com Filtxpo – 2019 Navy Pier/Chicago IL/USA http://www.filtxpo.com YARN FAIR ISTANBUL İstanbul, Türkiye http://tuyap.com.tr/

March 2020 5-6

Texcon – 2020 Indore MP/ India www.svvv.edu.in

2-4

ntertex Tunisia – 3rd Sousse/Tunisia http://www.intertextunisia.com/

21-22

London 2020 London / UK https://www.thelondonexpo.com

21-23

Nonwovens Institute NC 27676/United States http://www.inda.org/

24-26

Screen Print India GOREGAON/MUMBAI/INDIA https://screenprintexpo.in.messefrankfurt. com

27-30

INDO INTERTEX 2020 Kemayoran/ Indonesia www.peragaexpo.com https://itme2020.india-itme.com/

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December 2019

ISE-AUS- SHOW REPORT

150 INDIAN EXHIBITORS PARTICIPATION , HIGHEST FROM ASIAN COUNTRIES EXCLUDING CHINA. 10th International Sourcing Expo, 4th Footwear Leather Show, 19th China Clothing Textile Accessories Expo held on 12th to 14th November, 2019 at Melbourne Exhibition Center, Melbourne, Australia. This event is organized by International Exhibition and Conference Group. This is one of pioneer and important sourcing event for Textile and Apparel industry of Australia. This large scale event

is Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dedicated destination for international apparel and textile sourcing, and due to the scale and breadth of international participation is the leading sourcing event across South East Asia for trade professionals. Trade show have total 750 Exhibitors in which 226 for International Sourcing Expo, 139 for Footwear & Leather Show, 385 for China Clothing Textile Accessories Expo with 18000 sqm total gross floor Space. Show has attracted Exhibitor from countries like China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Hongkong, Taiwan, Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, USA, Mexico, Brazil , Fiji, Peru, Turkey, UAE, Ethiopia, South Africa, Australia. Indian have maximum participation around 150 exhibitors which is supported by MAI scheme of India and various associations from India like FIEO, AEPC, HEPC, EPCH, Silk Export Promotion Council, National Jute Board, Jute development export

December 2019

promotion council, council of leather exports. Other countries association supported event ie. Taiwan Textile Federation, Provincial Government of Jakarta, Textile Clothing and Footwear Council Fiji, South African Footwear and Leather Export Council, Export Promotion Bureau Bangladesh, Trade Development Authority of Pakistan, Australian Fashion Council, Vietnam Footwear and Leather Association. 95 % Visitors are mainly from different parts of Australia and 5% from other countries. Total 4251 Visitors attracted show, 97 % of visitors are decision makers. 27 % Visitors are Distributors/ Wholesaler/ Importer ; 26% Online Retailer, 14% independent retailers, 8% retail chain/ departmental store/ Franchise, 14% Manufacturer, 6% Agency and others are from association, media, education institute, government officials. Visitors main purpose of visit is to discover new manufactures and suppliers. First day welcome reception in which Exhibitors, VIPs, show partners and media partners were officially welcomed with an address by Marie Kinsella, CEO of International Exhibition and Conference Group. Julie Holt, Global Exhibitions Director, International Exhibition and Conference Group also spoke about the history of the event and thanked the audience for their continued and growing support. Mr R. K. Shukla, Assistant

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Director, Council of Leather Exports India was invited to speak as a special guest. He provided an informative address about Indian capability in the sector and interest in Australia as a promising export market. The Welcome Reception was very well attended and provided significant opportunities for networking with industry peers and event partners. Global Gallery provided an additional platform for exhibitors to showcase their design and manufacturing capability to Australian and New Zealand trade buyers and industry professionals. The gallery attracted strong interest from attendees who were inspired to visit specific stands. The 2019 Global Sourcing Seminars included eleven sessions presented by industry experts across the three day event. Global trend forecasting agency, FASHION SNOOPS were the part of the 2019 Global Sourcing Seminars. Direct from the USA, Melissa Moylan, Vice President/Creative of Womens wear of FASHION SNOOPS presented 2 trend focused seminars which helped educate, inspire and support attendees. Next Show dates are 24th to 26th November, 2020 with same venue at Melbourne, Australia.

ISE-AUS- AEPC AUSTRALIA MARKET IS NOT ALTERNATIVE BUT ADDITIONAL MARKET IN DOWN TIME…

to work with India because of logistics issues and time taken for deliveries. I am happy to share that over time this perception has significantly changed and the importers of store have been very appreciative of our merchandise – its quality and variety offered.

H. K. L.MAGU Chairman AEPC Participation in Exhibition Apparel Export promotion Council, as the nodal body for promoting exports from India, participates in the Australia Fair as this is an important market for Indian Apparel. AEPC participates in various international Exhibitions with their members under MAI (Market Access Initiative) scheme of the Govt of India. The Australia Fair has been part of AEPC’s export promotion events for the last few years. The purpose of participating in Australia fair has been to explore the market potential and facilitate B2Bs with potential suppliers from India. Initially, when we started participating in this Australia expo, almost 95% of the suppliers were from China and doubts were expressed about feasibility of importing from India. This was because of the buyer’s perspectives that India is far away, it’s difficult

We had only 10 -15 exhibitors from India in year 2016 in Sydney. Our Participants are so flexible that if buyers want 50-100 pieces our suppliers are ready to supply but China was not able to supply small quantity. Indian Exporters got good enquiries with minimum 50-100 pcs quantity with good unit values. Indian suppliers available of the benefit that comes with small and flexible order lots. Indian exporters started their business with small quantities, but things have grown over the year. Stores have started looking at India. Couple of stores - like Target, K mart, has their own office/ buying houses in India. Besides this there are retailers with single shop or few shops that are happy to procure from India through this fair. Our products are a mix of garments, shoes, accessories, carpets, etc.

Australia Market I am happy to share that his Fair has been able to generate a good buyer footfall rate, with reputed and genuine buyers and has been well organized form the participant’s point of view also. 20 exhibitors have participated from AEPC, 50% are repeat

from last year. They come with intention of meeting their existing buyers and meet new customers also. This market is comparatively new for India as our main focus was in the US and Europe till the last decade. Migrant Indian population has created a demand for Indian products like Knitwear, scarfs, Jaipur prints products , lace embroidery ,traditional; ethnic and crafted items are very well liked by Australian Buyers. Australian market is not alternative to European countries, as volumes are not as large as in Europe. But being a reverse season market, it is useful to be part of this market. When Europe have winter season - Australia have summer season. This helps exporters to have better capacity utilization of their units, by supplying throughout the year. Thus markets like Africa and Australia are not an alternative but additional market - it’s worth coming here again.

Competitor Exports from India is only 3% . China having 80% share, China is vacating space for basics garments as they are more focused on high tech garments. Bangladesh and Pakistan are also having presence in this market, but Indian products are better positioned in this market. We are not here to compete or beat China but definitely to make a mark with our unique products.

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December 2019

ISE-AUS- JPDEPC JUTE IS CREATING ITS OWN SPACE AS ECO FRIENDLY AND SUSTAINABLE OPTION IN THE WORLD MARKET

to immensely successful events like the Jutexpo which is held annually in Kolkata. Jutexpo is a unique platform for buyers across the globe to come and interact with Indian manufacturers and exporters of jute products.

RAJESH KUMAR KHEMKA Vice Chairman Jute Products Development & Export Promotion Council Created under the Indian Companies Act of 1956, Jute Products Development & Export Promotion Council (JPDEPC) is an industry-led, government recognized body to develop jute products and aid export of Jute. The basic activities are of arranging bespoke products as per customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; requirements, analyzing buyers and sellers, strategizing marketing plans and acting as a registering authority for issue of Registration-cum-Membership Certificates for exporters of Jute and Jute Products. The Council is constantly endeavoring to broaden its horizon of activities and take care of the needs of existing as well as budding entrepreneurs. It strives to make substantial contribution to export basket of jute products and finally ease up the activity of doing business. Over the last few years, the Council headed by Chairmen like Mr Manish Kajaria, Vivek Agarwal and Neel Kankani saw a spurt in promotional activities which gave birth

December 2019

The Council, under the guidance of Smt Smriti Irani, Minister of Textiles, Govt of India and support from Ministry of Commerce and DC Handicrafts has undertaken several programs for design development, artisan education and market research. Apart from domestic events, international events across the globe like participation in trade fairs and buyer-seller meets are organized at subsidized cost for enhancement of trade between India and other countries. Ambitious projects to setup Jute Park with a common facility center are under planning to add value and remove constraints of the Jute industry.

and hence are promoting ethically manufactured eco-friendly bags in place of plastic and paper ones. The purpose of our participation in this fair, International Sourcing Fair, is to showcase jute products and make people aware of jute as an eco-friendly option. Recently Australian companies like Coles and Woolsworth placed substantial orders for Jute/Juco bags with Indian manufacturers which were well accepted by the Australian consumers. This em-

As the Vice Chairman of the Council, my prime focus is to educate, encourage and enlighten Indian entrepreneurs about the vast opportunities of a successful career in jute industry which will not only be beneficial to them but also generate employment and earn precious foreign exchange for the country.

Participation in International Sourcing Expo, Australia : We have come to Melbourne with a delegation of 11 manufacturers of jute products, who are mainly exhibiting shopping bags, gift bags, beach bags, etc. Corporates around the world are aware of their social responsibilities towards environment

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boldens us further and we see a good opportunity here in Australia for our products. The Indian Embassy in Australia was kind enough to promote our participation in the event.

ISE-AUS- AWFED NORTH INDIAN ARTISAN PRODUCTS HAS DEMAND ACROSS THE WORLD • “Excellence Award “ was conferred to AWFED during conduct of “ India International Cooperative Trade fair,2019” by National Cooperative Development Corporation , Ministry of Agricultural and Farmers welfare , GOI, at New Delhi, PragatiMaidan. Conversation with Mr. GyatiKobing, Managing Director of Arunachal Pradesh State Weavers Co-operative Federation Ltd during International Sourcing Expo, Melbourne, Australia.

International Market Exposure

GYATI KOBING Managing Director The Arunachal Pradesh State Artisans and Weavers Cooperative Federation, ltd. The Arunachal Pradesh State Artisans and Weavers Cooperative Federation, ltd. in short Arunachal Weavers Federation, ltd. were registered under the AP Cooperative Societies Registration Act, 1978 (Act No 3 1979), Rule therein bearing Govt. Registration No. Coop (Org) 262/2012 Dtd 24th April 2012. There are 32 primary weavers cooperative societies who are the member societies with 1800 professional weavers, 3180 nominal weavers and 36 SHGs affiliated to it. The affair of the federation is managed by the Board of Director consist of 9 members. The Government nominee comprise of the Registrar of Cooperative Societies, Director Textile & Handicraft, Director Industries, Chief Executive Officer Village and Khadi Board, Managing Director A.P Co.op. Apex Bank, ltd. The other Four (4) members are made up of representative of primary weavers Cooperatives Societies duly elected/ selected by members’ societies. At present Smt.HageYasung, former

Member of A.P State Commission for Women & Child Protection, Govt. of A.P and SmtiRadhaNaji is the Chairperson and Vice-Chairperson respectively. Besides, Smti Yama T. Tarak and Smti. Haj Yakang is Board of Director Members. There are regular AGM and Board meeting conducted as per provision of Bye-Laws. The Last Annual General Body meeting was conducted on 18th June 2019 at District Conference Hall, Ziro. And the last Board of Director meeting was conducted on 07 May 2019.

This is a federal state level Cooperative organization registered back in 2012. Since inception, we are promoting the handloom and handicraft products of all tribes of Arunachal in the state, the North east region and in the nation. This is the second time that we are here at the international level next to Lexington, USA. We have participated in this International Sourcing Expo for promoting handloom exports. Coming here has been an awesome experience. We see a lot of potential and scope in Australia be-

Achievement • Best handloom Promoting Society Award during Independence Day celebration 2019. Award was conferred by district administration, Ziro LowerSubansiri district, Arunachal Pradesh.

cause many retailers, Company, Designers and Proprietor approached us and gave their cards. They appreciated our handloom patterns motifs and designs for originality and hand woven. They assured us that they will be visiting our place and interact

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December 2019

ISE-AUS- AWFED with our weavers so that more product can be exported to Australia and New Zealand. Our potential buyers are from Singapore, Taiwan Australiaand USA.

in California West, USA and we will be supplying to them too.

Products

Coming to Australia, I think we have a lot of potential and scope and we hope that customers approach us and we look forward to achieving all our goals.

The product that we have displayed is about the handloom garments, home furnishing and decorative items. The price range is low as the product is made by poor weavers from rural areas. It is completely hand woven and no power looms are used. Even though it is a laborious task, we have kept the price low so that any customers who are interested in buying the product can easily afford. Our natural handloom has been practiced from generations in the local level. AWFED brought these from the rural level to the state level, then to the national and now International level.

We export our products to the market in Singapore& USA etc. We also have memoranda of understanding signed with the Indian Fashion Trade

We have participated many times at the national level. Right now, we are also supplying our products to the Indian railways through the Apex Cor-

Our fundamental purpose behind this is to promote our rich handloom culture which includes very fine, intricate and beautiful designs which we inherit from our ancestral fore fathers. We expect to be among the other top international handloom producers. Once our production and export goes well, our weavers can have a good price.

porations and Handloom Association, Ministry of textiles, Government of India. Our product supply ranges from 21.2 croresupplies to the Ministry of textiles. GyatiKobing DRCS Cum Managing Director Of A.P.StateWeversCo. Op.Federation Ltd.

Achievement • ICDP (Integrated cooperative development project) Incentive Award, 2008. • Sincere & Dedicated officer Award During Independence Day Celebration,2010.By District Administration, DaporijoUpper Subansiri district, Arunachal Pradesh. • “State Commendation Certificate Award” 2019 Was Conferred During Independence Day, 2019. • “Mahatma Gandhi Sanman” Award Of Excellence By Iconic Achievers Council Of India ,2019, New Delhi.

ISE-AUS-FIJI FIJI ;GOVERNMENT SUPPORT ON “ MAKE IN FIJI INITIATIVE ” ia. So, that’s the purpose of our participation, we participate here as individual companies but also as a group, representing the TCF Council of Fiji. So the potential here is too see how customers in Australia; our existing customers; but also to see any new customers that want to get products made in Fiji. Fiji is nearby geographical location to Australia, its advantage. But the disad-

MR.MICHAEL TOWLER TFC Council, Fiji.

We are here as the representatives of the textile, clothing and footwear council of Fiji and we are tasked by the government of representing our industry here at this show in Austral-

December 2019

vantage is there is very less raw material available to the manufacturers in Fiji. This is not the first time here as we’ve been part of the sourcing fair here in Australia for a number of years; almost 6 or 7. We consider this as a very good medium for us to

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come and display our products, and to display the manufacturing opportunities that our individual members have in Fiji.

Market in Australia The buyer details; most of them are from Melbourne but obviously there is interstate people as well so there are other parts of Australia; New Zealand, South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Western Australia. And we see a cross section of most of them are wholesalers, retailers but we don’t see many fashion designers, exporters or manufacturers in this part of the world; they’re mainly buyers. So there are both, a mix of existing clients and new clients. We don’t have details of purchase amounts, quantities and frequency but we are always very confident that this is a great medium for us to come and find new customers. We are all manufacturers

ISE-AUS-FIJI in Fiji, who are represented here on this council and we are all exporters to this particular market of Australia. The products that you see displayed here are many and varied work wear sport wear. In my own industry I have life jackets there’s this oilskin wear that you see here and products that are actually madeout of that particular product and also there’s a lot of corporate wear so suits and uniforms that are manufactured by some of our individual members. For our strains many and varied up to many hundreds of dollars for a high-end product to down to some of the most sportswear in the low twenty dollars on an item. The markets is here in Australia, New Zealand are the two

main markets for us to manufacture and export to. In a promotional methods obviously these shows one of the methods that we do to promote our product, we also use online marketing social media. And we’re also simply going out and to see our customers on a regular basis so that’s how we promote our products. Theorganizers of International sourcing Expo are very good,I do think that probably this type of shows as popular as they used to be as far as promoting our products but it’s still worthwhile for us to come here and to give the opportunity to new customers and existing customers to come here and to visit us. And of course we will always participate because we see this as an

opportunity to come to the market ourselves as an industry not only just as individual manufacturers but as an industry so that’s the reason why we will be back again next year.

Importing from Asian Countries I think individual manufacturers may purchase some raw material from India but I’m not aware of it myself I mainly import to Fiji the raw material out of Asia so Australia New Zealand Asia Korea but a lot of these people who deal in cotton fabrics in putting out of Pakistan I’m not aware of anybody in I’m not aware of it there may be some who may be importing from India.

INTERVIEW

INDUSTRY IS BOOMING, 2020 LOOKS PROMISING… thinker and developer in the section of Fashion & Technology and Technical Textiles on the other hand. Stoll was found in 2003 in India. Initially, it was set up in our service MARTIN LEGNER AND R.SARAVANAN center but afSTOLL ENTERPRISE ter three years, we converted STOLL – a name that inspires and at into a fully owned subsidiary and are the same time, stands for quality and now working with nearly sixty memflexibility in the world of knitting. The bers, mostly technicians. Our major STOLL brand has achieved a legendmarket covers Delhi and Ludhiana ary reputation equipped with many based on maximum customer basis. facets. For more than 145 years, the Predominantly, our population are image of a consequently solution orifrom fashion industry right now but entated manufacturer of flat knitting technical textile picking up, We are machines has been maintained and already have customers in medical further developed. Today, for many textiles and have done some procustomers, the STOLL enterprise is jects in these areas in this two years. the integrative link between the highWe have a special project in Bombay ly sophisticated technology in the which deals with platinum wires and area of developing and manufacturwhich is our dedicated application. ing flat knitting machines on the one We hold a high value and are not in hand and an innovative independent

the general mass market but we have specialized projects which are being handled right now and more to come.

Product we build We basically are machine builders and have a purpose and have machines that are capable to knit, let’s say, regular apparel. We use its technique in order to implement, why it’s a high functional super technical piece of application, whether it’s for office furniture or for more reviews. We use knit to shape shoe apparels and bags and all these types of things. We come from a fashion side but we try to really extend our business for our machinery and participated techtextil 2019 to promote these types of applications and find an interesting base of customers and make them understand what the technology is all about and how it can be used for a huge idea of applications. Market Share in India We have a Japanese competition and we have about 65% of the market share in organized and branded segment in India but then we also have Asian companies who sell at a much

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December 2019

INTERVIEW lesser price.

in 2020 than the previous year.

Market in 2019

Purpose of participation Techtextil India 2019

It has been quite sluggish, to be honest, because there have been multiple problems in the segment, the backlogs weren’t doing well, there wasn’t fresh funding for the industry. It is moving quite slow because of all these issues. We had assigned a lot of projects but the delivery took time. So we have had a sluggish first half, but the second half has been good. We have upcoming projects and the delivery system has improved. We look forward to 2020 because once these problems get sorted out, get banking finance; we expect growth to be faster. The industry is booming but the only problem now is finance. 2020 Vision We look forward to 2020 as we have a few early projects and discussions going on. Hopefully we move faster. Initially few companies had bought Chinese machines but now we hope the industry wants to buy machines which are more flexible. We have newer models as compared to last year and we hope to be more active

It has been quite a good show for us this time. The first two days, we were really busy and we had good quality buyers who are quite interested in follow ups. Our expectation goes towards serious project investigations and maybe joint product developments. As compared to the first time we were here, which I think was two years ago, the second time is when we established the right position in the Indian market. This is what we do and what we want to achieve and it shows our commitment towards the Indian market. It’s to show the Indian people that we are not here to test the Indian market but we are here as a constant partner to the companies that are interested in this type of technology.

R&D Philosophy We have an R&D center more or less with all our large subsidies. Particularly here in India, we have a well experienced and well educated staff and I can say that wherever we are

represented in India, whether it’s the north or the south, we should have the capability to support enquiries of customers who have the need for a specific product and if they are interested in investments. We sometimes try to do some of the implementations by upgrading which is mostly driven by ideas like presenting new yarn functions and material which we basically integrate in our knit process and then add on some finishing processes to see how the yarn changes. In case it changes, we see how it affects the products outcome. Other than that, we are depending on our partners and their ideas and needs and we take them with us as it is our goal to have joint developments and new products which they need for their market. We have through that not just new product developed but maybe also new customers who are applying the use of our machines to help develop the future and extend our business by this.

COTTON CENTRIC INDIAN MARKET HAS A LOT OF NON-WOVEN PRODUCTS POTENTIAL In this very vast program and world of nonwovens, we as a machine manufacturer, are able to provide single machines, complete lines from bale opening to winding and service to our customers.

When did you enter the Indian market ?

TORSTEN KAISER, SHAILENDRA JOSHI TRUETZSCHLER NONWOVEN & MAN MADE FIBERS GMBH.

December 2019

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We have been working since many years in India and still we see that the market is developing. It is because Nonwoven has multiple applications, it can be hygiene, it can be medical product, it can be geo textile it can be technical textile. It was all visible here at the show. So evidently, it’s a

INTERVIEW very vast range to cover. Since we are working in spunlace technology, we focus mainly on products like wipes which are used for hygiene purposes. This market is still developing in India. As we said, we have other parts of the world where it’s more developed than others. We have experienced a show of big interest here. Moreover, we believe strongly in the Indian competence for the material, which is cotton. Cotton is a recyclable and biodegradable material and this is what the world is currently asking for. So I think India has a great potential to become one of the export leaders for nonwoven made out of cotton.

How is the market in India for Truetzschler Nonwovens ? In India, there are couple of nonwoven lines and many of their products are exported already but there are also some local products. And I think this number shall definitely increase. Subsequently, the awareness of hygiene and the advantages of such products is getting bigger. This will and does make consumers more conscious about hygiene, hand-in-hand, increasing the demand. This will help the market grow, to which we can work since we have the right machinery to process the cotton. You see, cotton is the material that is not easy to handle compared to synthetic materials. Keeping in mind that here we have done a lot of development, especially on web forming, that means carding in particular, we have various series of machines where we can handle the virgin cotton also the combed cotton. We consider that we can help the Indian market flourish. Many customers are coming from the spinning industry, processing cotton. Consequently there are huge quantities of comber noils available. Now the customers have two choices, either they sell the combed or they can make a product out of it. Statistically, there is potential to invest into a new market and to gain new market shares in the different segments, for which nonwoven could be of the utmost help.

Do you have a R & D centre? Infact, the Truetzschler Nonwoven

Group, has two R & D sites in Germany; one is close to Frankfurt and one is close to Muenster. In our Technical Center in Egelsbach we have two very flexible production lines on 5000 square meters floor space, on which we can produce a large variety of different webs with different weights at different speeds. New customers have the possibility to send us their raw material and based on the requirements, we can produce the web for him. At the end he can touch and feel his product and see what is possible from a technological point of view. This is a big advantage for the customer when entering into a new market. Our machine portfolio consists of opening and blending, carding, thermal web bonding and bonding with hydro-entanglement, drying and winding. There is transparency between us and the customers, which help in future projects.

Percentage of Revenue keeps for R&D The percentage of revenue keeps changing a lot. We are changing our priorities according to the need of the market. The markets are moving and so are we. We have to adapt our machinery and the performances of our machines has to improve steadily. Therefore we are permanently in the process of improving our products and performance. When it comes to industry 4.0 for example, we are investing heavily into that. Machine efficiency, energy saving, running cost savings, etc. All these parameters are crucial in a production facility and we do our best to optimize our customers TCO on our machines.

What is the purpose of participation in Techtextil India 2019? As I said earlier, we believe in India and a good way to the market is to export the cotton. As it is the material that can replace and I’m sure it will partially replace; in the western states; polypropylene and polyester. These countries don’t have their own cotton production but India has experience and knows the cotton very well. So I think this is the way how Indian customers can build a new busi-

ness. And this is our reason for participation. We want to show them all the advantages of the cotton, and we want to show them our machinery, because you cannot simply process cotton on a line which is supposed to run synthetic materials. It’s different and much trickier. We have the right machinery combination but we also need the right Indian subsidiaries. We can support them by technological backup, which is only one of the many advantages available at Truetzschler. For us, it’s good to have ATE in the loop because they know the market and we know the machinery. Together, we can adjust our development space to the market needs. We think we have a good portfolio now to carry this cotton range. This is what we did at the Techtextile 2019, we have promoted this material.

What is the potential of this Machinery in India ? Here, the machines and the technology is available, along with the Indian subsidiaries. We have big interest in the cotton spinning machinery and we expect this business will also get better and have good growth prospect in future. We are here to support our own company to develop this product, especially for the Indian market.

Response for TechTextil 2019 We are undeniably very happy with the show. We made very good contacts, with our existing customers, of course. There was a lot of networking with new customers who came to us, who really wanted to invest into new products, into new options other than spinning. And I think we had a lot of serious requests. So we are going home with a lot of work and I’m very excited. In all, I’m very pleased. I can only thank the Indian customers for this big participation. It was very nice to witness such a good prospect.

Is ATE is good Partner for you ? Yes, indeed, a very good partner. We have been working together since many years and we are very happy with the performance and result.

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