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ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707 FEBRUARY - 2015 | Volume 3 | Issue 2 | Pages 52
4 Technical Textiles: Filtration Fabric Overview /Textiles in High Risk Sports 4 Home Textiles : A cluster based approach 4 Cotton Report / Yarn Updates 4 Rieter , Birla Cellulose, Garments SME's Brand Focus
No Research, No Progress...!
EDITORIAL Missing Slipper of Cindrella
Textile success story demands full help for Scientific Research. The authorities at the centre decidedly deserve all praise for their vision to upgrade technology of the textile industry. Some years ago, the Indian Textile Industry was condemned as a museum of junk machinery. This was a most uncharitable comment, which overlooked the ground realities. An investment of over Rs.2.50 lakh crore in subsequent years in capital assets under TUFS has transformed the Indian Textile Industry which is now competing with the best in the world. A new dimension emerged in the recent years, with various State Governments announcing their additional support to strengthen the muscles of the industry. Cotton growers also deserve a pat for their efforts for substantial increase in production. So far, there is no firm indication of cotton production in the current season, although it is generally believed that production may scale a new peak. But the cotton growers are facing a grim situation due to a sharp fall in prices. What an irony of situation ! This is mainly due to China which has, it seems, jettisoned its buffer stock scheme for cotton and planned withdrawal from the textile manufacturing activity in a phased manner. It is praiseworthy that Cotton Association of India(CAI) has planned a programme to step up cotton consumption in the country. Surely, overdependence on exports is not in the best interest of growers. CAI's efforts must be strongly supplemented by the development of products in which cotton is used. This is purely a scientific field, which is different from assimilation of new technology by the industry. It is to be noted that, 80-90% of weaving, processing, knitting and garmenting are in the decentralized sector. Obviously, their capacity to undertake product development is awfully limited. In the organized sector, mill companies are by and large medium-sized, while only a few large corporates may have financial strength to undertake product research, but not the overwhelming bulk of the industry. Hence it is the Research Associations which must step in.
Due to financial crunch, the Research Associations have not been able to refocus their activities as per the needs of the present time. Today they are struggling to meet both ends. Surely, It is a matter of gratitude that the illustrious family of Sarabhais mooted the idea of co-operative approach to Textile Research, which laid the foundation of Ahmedabad Textile Research Association[ATIRA]. Bombay, as the city was then called, took a cue and established Bombay Textile Research Association [BTRA ]. Next to follow was South India Textile Mill' Association [SITRA ]. North cannot remain unmoved and Northern India Textiles Research was not to lag behind and NITRA also started dazzling on the horizon. This co-operative model for Scientific Research in Textiles must be fully strengthened to become the gems of the industry. The textile industry will not be able to win the race of supremacy in the international market, unless Research Associations in the country accept the challenge of product development. Government should include in their lexcicon Research Associations for giving liberal grants to do research with a commercial bias, so that the world may appreciate that no dress is perfect unless it bears an ' Indian Label '
Shri V.Y. Tamhane Editorial Advisor
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Bhiwandi, Dist. Thane (Mah.)
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In this Issue...
EUARY 2015 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher
NEWS
Editorial Advisor
9 – Government News 10- Corporate News : ATE & VALENTINE 11- Corporate News : IKEA & YAMUNA 39- Association News : EDANA
Ms. Jigna Shah Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer
COVER STORY : RESEARCH IS THE CORE TO INNOVATION
Mr. Anant A. Jogale Advertising & Sales
12- Views by Economic Analyst 12 – Need for R& D by BTRA 13- Study Report by NITRA 14 – Transformation, Support Require by ATIRA
Md. Tanweer
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
ARTICLES
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
18- Technical Textile into Filtration Fabric by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 25 – Review Technical Article : Textiles for high risk Sports by WRA Scientist 39- Inertia of Manufacturing by Mr. Harish Chatterjee 41- Home Textiles Industry in India- A cluster based Approach, Mrs. Pravin Batra
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
BRAND FOCUS :
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,
22- TEXTILE MACHINERY : 23- FIBER : 50- GARMENT/ FASHION :
Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT
51- GARMENT/ FASHION
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT
34- TAXFAIR & FARM TO FINISH 2015 35- GTTES 2015 16- NGF by CMAI– JAN 2015 16 – GOTS Conference 48- Show Calendar
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant
38- Congratulations…TAI Awards & MOU Gujnon
Mr. Uttam Jain
MARKET REPORT
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
44- Cotton report 47- Yarn Updates
Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA
· · · · ·
Raymond : Back Page Birla Cellulose ; Back Inside Front Inside : Messe Frankfurt Page 1 : Narain Synthetics Page 3 : Bajaj Silk Fab
BIRLA CELLULOSE CUP CAKE – Kids wear, ORIGINAL VARSITY LEAGUE : Men's wear H.G. FASHION – Men's Ethnic Wear
SHOW REPORT
Dr. Rajan Nachane
ADVERTISER INDEX
:
RIETER
· · · · · ·
Page 5 : SGS Innovation Page 6 : Textile Expo Page 7 : VHM Industries Page 8 : Dynamic Loom Page 17 : Textile Committee Page 20 : Nonwoven Tech Asia
· · · · · · ·
Page 21 : Shree ram Textiles Page 24 : Technotex Page 33 : Tyco Source Tag Page 36 : Sanjay Plastic Page 37 : Amith Garment Page 40 : Homtex Tech Page 49 : Cotton Guru
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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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GOVT. NEWS
GRANT OF SUBSIDY TO JUTE CORPORATION OF INDIA TO MAINTAIN ITS INFRASTRUCTURE FOR MSP OPERATIONS The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, chaired by the Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi, has approved providing financial support to the JCI, it has been decided to provide subsidy to Jute Corporation of India (JCI) on a continuous basis to off-set the losses on account of Minimum Support Price (MSP) operations by JCI. The quantum of subsidy will include the difference between the Purchase and Sale Price of MSP Raw Jute. The quantum of subsidy will also include fixed overhead costs incurred by JCI in maintaining its infrastructure for MSP operation. The reimbursement of fixed overhead cost would be maintained albeit at a reducing amount as per the details given below:
In Rs. Crore Annual subsidy/ Grant for maintaining its infrastructure for MSP operations
2014-15 2015-16
2016-17 2016-17
55.00
49.38
52.11
The decision will provide financial support to Jute Corporation of India to protect the interest of the Jute Growers through procurement of Raw Jute under the MSP fixed by the Government of India and also to stabilize the raw jute market for the benefit of the 40 lakh farm families and the jute economy as a whole. JCI is the Price Support Agency of the Govt. of India for jute to protect the interest of the Jute Growers through procure-
46.78
ment of Raw Jute under the MSP fixed by the Govt. of India from time to time and also to stabilize the raw jute market for the benefit of the jute farmers and the jute economy as a whole. To enable JCI to conduct MSP operation and be in preparedness for MSP at the start of every year, yearly grant is provided to the JCI to meet its operational expenditure & overheads for MSP preparedness
ACHIEVEMENTS AND INITIATIVES OF MINISTRY OF TEXTILES DURING 2014
Year End Review 2014 Setting up Integrated Textile Parks The implementation of the scheme was held up during the last one year due to administrative bottlenecks and no sanction was given for new parks. The new government moved swiftly to resolve the issues and 13 new textiles parks were approved by the Project Approval Committee (PAC) chaired by the Minister of State for Textiles (independent Charge) Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar. While these 13 textile parks will receive a grant to the extent of Rs 520 crores from government for infrastructure development, they are estimated to bring in private sector investment of about Rs 3240 crores into the sector and generate direct employment for about 35,000 persons over the next three years. Besides, a fresh advertisement would be issued calling for proposals for more ITPs for utilization of the balance provision during the 12th plan period. Exports
With a vision to create an export friendly economy the government introduced several initiatives – Duty free entitlement to garment exportersfor import of trimmings, embellishments and other specified items increased from 3% to 5%. This initiative is expected to generate an additional
RMG exports estimated at Rs.10,000 Crore. The government has also proposed to extend 24/7 customs clearance facility at 13 airports and 14 sea ports resulting in faster clearance of import and export cargo.
The proposal for imposing duty on branded items was dropped providing relief to the entire value chain. Development of Handloom:
National Institute of Fashion Technology and leading members of the fashion industry have been roped in for design support to weavers. In order to provide better marketing reach, the Ministry has launched an E-commerce initiative Flipkart. This will strengthen the existing Primary Weaver Cooperative Society by assisting entrepreneur from the weavers families for taking up production and supply directly to the customers. Synergy of handloom, handicraft with tourism has been worked out in consultation with Ministry of Tourism. State Chief Secretaries have been requested for identifying traditional handloom weavers/handicraft artisans villages for development as “Adarsh Gram” as tourists destination.
Development of Tassar handloom products like sarees, dress material and
wide range of home furnishing fabric for exports typical to Bhagalpur in Bihar has been initiated under Handloom Mega Cluster Scheme. Another mega cluster is being developed at Trichy, Tamilnadu. Over 15,000 handloom weavers will be directly benefited under each these two clusters. The remaining new megaclusters at Surat, Bareilly, Lucknow, Kutch and Mysore announced in the Budget Speech are at various stages of implementation. Handicraft
Promotion of major crafts of Varanasi namely wood carving, carpet and durry weaving, meenakari and zardozi and pottery etc. have been taken up by providing assistance to the artisans with better skill, design and supply of toolkits etc. This was formally launched by the Textiles Minister on 26.9.2014. A Skill Development Programme for training 5000 carpet weavers has been taken up through the Carpet Export Promotion Council (CEPC). An Integrated Design Project of 5 months duration for wooden toys would be organized by National Centre for Design and Product Development (NCDPD). Electric wheels were given to potters under the Design and Technological Upgradation Scheme of Handicrafts in Delhi and later at Bareilly. ·
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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CORPORATE NEWS
www.textilevaluechain.com
A.T.E. NOW OFFERS SERVICE FOR ZIMMERMACHINES A.T.E. has been representing Zimmer since 2013 for sale of its entire range of machinery covering digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating, and drying machines for textiles as well as carpet finishing. The scope of representation has now been expanded to cover service including erection, commissioning, and trouble shooting. J. Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH, Austria, which was established more than 135 years ago offers a complete range of high quality, reliable printing systems as well as related software. Zimmer is also known for its complete process and application know-how in printing.
A.T.E. has a team of well trained and experienced engineers, who have been extensively trained in Zimmer machines and can now handle the erection, commissioning and trouble-shooting of these machines independently. Thus, customers can now avail of quick and cost effective services from A.T.E. A.T.E. has already rendered satisfactory services, including erection and commissioning, for Zimmer rotary print-
ing machines to various customers in India like: •
Arvind Mills Ltd., Ahmedabad
•
GHCL Ltd., Bhilad
•
Kitex Garments Ltd., Kochi
• Bombay Dyeing & Mfg. Co. Ltd., Ranjangaon •
Morarjee Mills Ltd., Nagpur
For Zimmer machine services, please contact:
Mumbai/ Delhi
Mr Victor Menezes
Phone: 09323708355
Email:v_j_menezes@ateindia.com
Coimbatore
Mr R. Thennarasan
Phone: 09362016587
Email: r_thennarasan@ateindia.com
Ahmedabad
Mr Devang Dave
Phone: 09374471800
Email: d_d_dave@ateindia.com
FIRST EVER LARGEST LOUNGEWEAR SHOWROOM OPENED IN MULUND-MUMBAI VALENTINE SHOWROOM SPREAD OVER TWO FLOORS: BIGGEST LOUNGEWEAR SHOWROOM IN MAHARASHTRA
Ashapura Intimates Fashion Ltd. has opened its new flagship “Valentine Loungewear Showroom” at Rajyog, Vardhaman Nagar, Mulund West, Mumbai. It has distinction to be the first ever larg-
est loungewear showroom not only in Mumbai, but entire Maharashtra. It has been spread over two floors modeled on international architectural design, having glittering & distinctive presence in the up-market Mulund shopping locality.
The Valentine Loungewear showroom of Mulund was inaugurated by Mr. Harshad H. Thakkar, Chairman & Managing Director of Ashapura Intimates Fashion Ltd. of Ashapura –Valentine Group on Sunday 18th January 2015.
Ashapura –Valentine Group has 10
entered into retail segment recently. The company’s first Valentine showroom spread over 1550 square feet was opened at Hill Road, Bandra, in the month of December 2014. This, Mulund showroom has been second showroom of the Group. This will be followed by new Valentine showrooms coming up at Borivali, Thane and Ghatkopar soon. The company has massive expansion plan to set up 26 Valentine Loungewear showrooms in Greater Mumbai by end of December 2015. The company also plans to expand retail showrooms on franchise basis across India. Ashapura Intimates Fashion Limited has emerged having largest product basket globally in a niche segment of Lounge Wear. With the vertically integrated manufacturing, the 2nd state of the art plant will open in Gujarat in near future, the company will have biggest capacity in production & warehousing in lounge wear in India. Under the ‘Valentine’ brand, the company sells intimate garments such as lounge wear, bridal night wear, honeymoon sets, bathrobes, nightwear, relax-
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
wear, sportswear, leggings, camisole, bra & panties etc. The new loungewear range is meant for gents, ladies, kids and toddlers. The company has export order of Rs.. 65 crore for the year 2014-15. The company mainly exports to Middle East and now plans to expand its export horizon to other countries. The company has growth rate of 30% per annum.
In India, The Group has 130 distributors and products are sold through 13,000 retail outlets across the country. The company has MOUs with online shopping sites like Myntra, Jabong/ Home Shop 18 and own website. About Ashapura- Valentine Group
The Ashapura Valentine Group consists of 2 listed companies, viz. Ashapura Intimates Fashion Ltd. and Momai Apparels Ltd. Mr. Harshad H. Thakkar, Chairman & Managing Director of the Group has a great vision at an young age of 37 years providing rapid expansion of the group. During 2013-14 the consolidated group turnover was Rs. 200 crore and it is expected to crossRs. 240 crore in the current year 2014-15.
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CORPORATE NEWS
FY 2014: THE IKEA GROUP CONTINUES TO GROW AND ENABLE MORE CUSTOMERS TO LIVE A SUSTAINABLE LIFE AT HOME The IKEA Group net income amounted to EUR 3.3 billion for the financial year 2014. Market conditions continued to improve with strong performance in China and North America, and an upward trend in Europe. There were 716 million visits to the IKEA Group stores and more than 1.5 billion visits to IKEA. com.
“FY14 was a good year for IKEA. I am happy to see increased growth in all our sales channels; in existing stores, in the opening of new stores and in ecommerce. We reached some important milestones towards becoming energy independent and saw a 58% increase in the sales value of products that enable people to live a more sustainable life at home. Sustainability is an integral part of our business strategy”, says President and CEO Peter Agnefjäll.
Total sales increased by 5.9% (adjusted for currency impact) from last year to EUR 28.7 billion. Together with the rental income from the shopping centre business, total revenue amounted to EUR 29.3 billion (+2.8%). The IKEA Group gained market share in almost all markets and entered a new country – Croatia. The largest markets in terms of sales were Germany, US, France, Russia and the UK.
“We have an ambitious growth agenda and at the same time we’re determined to have a positive impact on people and the planet. Our size gives us a unique opportunity to make a difference and contribute to positive change in society, for instance by making energyefficient lighting both affordable and attractive for millions of people”, continues Peter Agnefjäll.
Within its own operations, the IKEA Group produced renewable energy equivalent to 42% of the total energy consumed and aims by the end of 2015 to have invested and committed to invest EUR 1.5 billion in renewable energy projects, mainly offsite wind farms and photovoltaic (PV) panels. In FY14, EUR 200 million were set aside to a new loyalty programme Tack! and the amount for the One IKEA Bonus Program was increased by EUR 98 million, as a thank you to our co-workers. “A key factor to our strong performance is that we have a long-term view, and don’t aim to maximise short-term profits. We strive to continuously create better products at lower prices to our customers and to make substantial investments in our future”, says Peter Agnefjäll.
D.K.T.E. COE IN NONWOVENS PARTENERS WITH YAMUNA MACHINE WORKS LTD FOR FINISHING OF NEEDLE PUNCHED NONWOVENS
To facilitate the growth of Technical Textiles industry in India, the office of Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India has announced different schemes to promote Technical Textiles in India as a part of Technology Mission for Technical Textiles. D.K.T.E. is selected for establishing the COE in Nonwovens during the year 2011-12. The one of the objectives of COE is to set up state of the art R and D facilities for product development to enable the Indian industry to accomplish international quality norms. Their intensive study and research in nonwoven products and processes resulted into the decision to buy minimum possible industrial width lines for different bonding techniques to create a facility for the Indian nonwoven industry to conduct trials, sample production for seed marketing & train their personnel etc.,. He believes their decision will just not stimulate the investment and growth in the sector but also will help to evolve and develop nonwoven products made in In-
dia for India.”
D.K.T.E. COE in Nonwovens has already commissioned Truetzschler universal needle punch line in 2 meters. To utilize capabilities of Truetzschler Cross Lapper, D.K.T.E. has planned to add finishing machines for needle punched nonwovens with Thermo-fusion capabilities and Heat Setting Calendering. For this phase, DTKE COE for NonWOvens has partnered with YAMUNA for supplying the thermo fusion finishing and heatsetting caleendering machines.
Prof. C. A. Patil, Director, D.K.T.E. CoE in Nonwovens is extremely happy with the Yamuna Machine Works Ltd being their partner in their prestigious project. Yamuna Machine Works is active in the field of Nonwovens for many years and have strong references in Indian Nonwoven Industry. Prof. Patil further added that, they prefer to work with strong Indian Machinery Makers for Nonwovens and only in case, they are unable to find such suppliers, they will prefer strong
European supplier.
Mr. Prashant Mangukia, Director of M/s Yamuna Machine Works Ltd is delighted with their association with D.K.T.E. CoE in Nonwovens and promised that his company will make everything possible for the success of the lines to be supplied and confident that, the association will be beneficial for all the stake holders and for the R&D of nonwovens for the Indian technical textile industry. Yamuna Machine Works will deliver Thermo-fusion line and Heat Setting Calender by April 2015 and confident that the lines will be commissioned by June 2015.
DKTE COE in Nonwovens also has plans to buy Spunlace, Chemical, SMS, Coating and Lamination line, fiber retrieving lines in industrial width to complete their infrastructure for prototyping and incubation.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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COVER STORY
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NO RESEARCH, NO PROGRESS…! We are living in the world which is technology driven. In today’s world no industry can make progress and develop without constant research in the product development. Think for a moment how technology has radically transformed a cell phone into an i-pad and i-phone, in a short span of time. Textile industry showed consider itself fortunate enough because the research associations were set up right at the start of the planned economy in the country. However, time has come to strengthen their financial muscles. So that the products of the industry is based on research will enjoy the worldwide acceptance.
TVC has great pleasure in publishing articles to focus on the problem faced by research associations at how they win need of the industry to climb the summit of excellence on the strength of innovation. Editorial Advisor
FUNDING TO TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS ( TRA’S) By Economic Analyst
Funding Pattern The Government of India funds TRA’s under both plan and non-plan heads . Non – plan funds are primarily to meet a part of their administrative expenses. Plan funds are for carrying out planned research projects and offering comepnsation pakages to scientist & purchasing capital assets required for the sanctioned project. Prior to 1988, the government was sharing 50% of the recurring expenditure as non-plan funds and 100% funding was available for the sanctioned projects. Through various decisions , this funding pattern for TRA’s continued till 2003, when it was decided that 10% of grants released under non-plan in 2003-2004 would be reduced every year from 2004 – 2005 and after 10 years from 2013-2014 onwards no non-plan funding be given to TRA’s. However , due to representation from TRA’s, in a meeting in 2009 , it was decided that non-plan assistance to TRA’s could be restored to the previous level of 2004 – 2005 for smooth working of TRA’s . This was reiterated in 2010. Since then the non-plan funds are continuing at the same level inspite of inflation and all-round escalation in cost of living and running these organizations . The standing finance committee for the scheme for R&D for textile industry , in December,2014 recommended a total of Rs. 50crore for the period 2014 -2015 to 2018 – 2019 with about 8 crore for 2014-2015 , Rs. 10crore for 2015 – 2016 & 2016-2017 and Rs. 11 crore for 2017 – 2018 & 2018 -2019 . This allocation is for textile industry other than jute sector for which Rs. 80 crore is earmarked for the period 2014- 2019. In addition Rs. 15 crore is allotted for green initiatives for the same five year period. Textile vision
If the intention of the Ministry & the industry is to achieve
textile trade of approximately US$ 350 or more by 2020, the industry has to move up the value chain from Commodity market to high value products both for export and domestic markets. This is true all the more looking to increasing competition from less developed countries. Product / process development for textile industry is imperative and there is no alternative to R&D in this sector. If “Make in India” is to succeed, intellectual capital formation is a pre-requisite.
While multinationals in other sectors invest in R&D , Indian textile industry is yet to take a major initiatives in R&D for the industry; till such time, the government may provide core fund to TRA’s to upgrade their infrastructure and to meet their scientists salary expenditure to be on par with scientists in other sectors. Jobs in TRA’s have to be made equally lucrative as in other research establishments – both private and government . It is only then TRA’s can be weaned away from using their physical resources for earning their salary and focus on R&D. Product development
Product development is an important area of research because a product sells on the strength of its quality and innovative features. This cannot be achieved by individual units particularly in the decentralised sector. An amount of Rs ten crore will be required to set up requisite R and D facility to research into durable finishing for better wrinkle recovery and easy-care properties, water repellent breathable finish, moisture management technology in personal - care products, etc. Surely, Government will be interested to promote R and D which will promote and stabilize textile industry, create lakhs of additional jobs and bring in larger quantum of foreign exchange.
NEW OUTLET FOR COTTON : NEED FOR R&D By Dr. A.N. Desai, Director, BTRA Cotton versus Man-made fibres Cotton, inspite of severe competition from manmade fibres continues to hold its position in the textile industry world wide accounting around 45% of fibres used ; in India 60% of fibre used by the industry is cotton. While cotton has many desirable characteristics like good moisture absorption ,wicking 12
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
and cotton fabrics are breathable , the fibre suffers from some disadvantages as well ; for instance poor wrinkle recovery and does not have easy care properties like synthetics. Plasma technology can be used for durable finish of cotton using nonhazardous chemicals . Another research area in this durable finish foe wrinkle recovery is iconic crosslinking. These technologies are clean and eco-friendly and need to be explored. Thus competitiveness of cotton is also related to technology change and diversified end uses. Creating new markets for cot-
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COVER STORY
NO RESEARCH, NO PROGRESS…! ton or introducing cotton in existing products is an area that needs to be looked into. In industrial or technical textiles use of cotton needs non traditional technologies.
Cotton in personal care sector in uses like wipes , feminine hygiene products is a valuable raw material since it is comfortable for next to skin applications . Its superior wet strength enhances its tear strength in tough applications like domestic wipes. Product development like Hi-DriTM - hydrophobic purified cotton for use in hygiene or medical products while keeping fabric and skin dry is desired. Propensity of cotton to absorb moisture can often be a negative in some applications. Development of moisture management technology for cotton where consumers can enjoy fast drying and moisture wicking performance seen in synthetics but coupled with comfort and softness of cotton is highly desirable. Only two fibres are of commercial significance in this regards in products designed to pick up liquids and to wipe surface dry – cotton and cellulose pulp. Cotton is exceptionally suitable for both single use or long term use wipes .Some patented products of these types are Tran Dry ®which allows fabric to work and spread perspiration as well as or better than synthetics which helps in a T-shirt with wicking and fast drying performance . Another patented technology is Wicking Window eliminates feeling of wet, saturated fabric against the body . The technology forces the transfer of moisture away from skin to outside of fabrics when it can evaporate, keeping the wearer drier and comfortable , say during an exercise. Self cleaning cotton fabric development is another area that needs attention. Galloping innovation
Many conventional water repellent treatments inhibit fabric breathability and transfer of moisture . STORM Cotton TM and STORM Denim TM are examples of durable highly water repellent finish at same time breathable. Technologies
like Plasma application - a clean and green technology with minimum water usage – can be applied by many finishes in eco-friendly ways – wrinkle recovery, breathable but water repellent , fabrics including denims and many multifunctional finishes like a fabric having at the same time properties such as fire retardant , antibacterial and UV protective. In the area of protective textiles in applications where heat stress influences productivity – in chemical protective clothing ,reports indicate cotton non-woven treated to enhance water repellency performed better than synthetics. Cotton needle punched nonwovens are reported to be a very feasible idea for accoqusticinsulation. In industrial filters, filtration performance of fibres depends on physical ,mechanical and chemical properties as well as on fibre morphology and stress – strain response to filtration environment. Cotton ranks high in filtration efficiency of both liquid and gas in those environment which are compatible with cellulose. Steps to promote cotton consumption
India being the 2nd largest producer of cotton needs to look beyond the conventional yarn and fabric production techniques. Research efforts for product / process development is imperative for new outlets for cotton usage, improved finishes for current products and technology development to replace or attain the properties of synthetics . Use of cotton in technical textiles and nonwovens is negligible in India. With nonwoven industry picking up in India , hydro entanglement and thermal bonding to cotton nonwovens need to be promoted to developnew products and replace some of the synthetic products. Research efforts on the lines of Cotton Incorporated in the USA are necessary to promote use of cotton and protect the interests of cotton growers, cotton trade and other stakeholders of cotton economy . Perhaps a Centre of excellence to promote cotton or allot different areas of post harvest cotton technology to different research institution is worth exploring.
ROLE OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT IN DEVELOPMENT OF INDIAN TEXTILES AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY
Dr. Arindam Basu, NITRA Place in Indian Economy The textile and clothing industry plays a very important role in Indian economy and society. It is second only to Agriculture in employment in India. Around 45 million people are directly engaged in this industry and around 60 million in allied industries. As per the projection at the end of 12th Plan the engagement will be 52 and 62 million respectively. It contributes 4% of GDP and accounts for 12% of country’s total export basket. It contributes towards 14% of industrial production. During 2012-13 the total export of textiles and clothing was Rupees 171971 crores i.e. US$. 31625 million. It increased to Rupees 214918 crores i.e. US$ 35426 million showing a growth of 25% (in rupees). As per 12th five year plan (2012-17), India envisages export of textiles and clothing worth US$ 64.41 billion by the end of March 2017. In addition there will be a significant increase in demand of clothing in domestic market due to increased per capita consumption.
This increase is already seen due to India’s large number of young people, increased disposable income, increased fashion consciousness and exposure of developed foreign countries. The unique feature of Indian textile industry is a large portion of textile and clothing products are produced in decentralised sector. In cloth production only 4-5% of total cloth is produced by organised sector. Around 60% cloth is produced by power-loom sector and around 13% in handloom sector. Majority of knitting and garment industry comes under small industries i.e. decentralised sector. These sectors need research and development including product development intervention for their sustainability. Origin of TRAs
Since then, TRAs have been helping Indian textile industry in many ways. They conduct applied research mainly applicable to textile/garment industry. R&D helps the industry to stay ahead and compete with developed and developing countries. Export data show how the textile industry improved TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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COVER STORY
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NO RESEARCH, NO PROGRESS‌! its performances and has become a respectable figure in the International scenario. Besides, TRAs help the Government in policy- making related to textiles and clothing industry in India. Norms published by the TRAs help in bench-marking the performance of industrial units.
NITRA for example helps industries in energy saving, waste control, manpower rationalisation and product development. Indigenous instruments and machines developed by NITRA help the industry in process control and quality control at reasonable cost. Some years ago the funding from the Government of India has been cut down drastically forcing the TRAs to concentrate on income generation activities such as testing, consultancy and training. Big companies have their own Research and Development divisions but the decentralised industry does not have means to conduct research activities and product development. If TRAs do not do research work, their consultancy i.e. dissemination of their research findings will be very limited. This may affect the decentralised sector badly causing job losses for a large number of people. Countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Myanmar will take this advantage and capture the market including Indian domestic market. As mentioned earlier a big proportion of textile industry is in the decentralised sector . The ill-effect of this development will cause a significant adverse impact on Indian economy. Product development
The textile industry in developed countries is presently concentrating on high value addition to sustain its business. As Indian economy grows, India will also face sustainability problem unless textile industry diversifies in high value- added products such as technical textiles. Technical textiles are knowledge- based products used for other than garmenting purpose. The Government of India has identified 8 institutes/ TRAs as Centre of Excellence (CoE) for different areas of Technical Textiles. For example NITRA has been identified as Centre of Excellence for Protective Textiles and sanctioned around 20 Crores of rupees for upgrading the laboratory and acquiring
specialised instruments/ machines required for protective textiles. Similarly SITRA, BTRA, SASMIRA have been identified for Medical textiles, Geo-textiles and Agro-textiles respectively. Being new areas a lot of Research and Product development activities has to be undertaken. Some of the products developed by NITRA are: * Stab resistant fabric for Hi-modulus Polyethylene fibre * Cut resistant fabric using composite metallic yarn * Seamless low cost jute carry bags * Nylon/ cotton (NYCO) fabric for Para-military and military combat uniform * Exploration of utilisation of Corn husks in textiles * A special functional fabric for bedding and sportswear for providing extra ordinary comfort with excellent microclimate. * Functional fabric to provide bacterial and UV protection * Protective clothing for workers in pesticide industry * X-ray opaque textile materials Many of the above have been commercialised. For decentralised sector it is very much important that TRAs help them in these areas. Besides, new standards are being developed by the CoEs which needs lot of scientific studies. It is very much important for the TRAs to have few scientists fully engaged in these areas. Fund restriction forces TRAs to offer less salary which results in attracting only mediocre students which is not very good for the Research and Development.
As compared to developed countries India’s investment in R&D per capita is very low and for textile industry it is much lower. Spending on R&D in India is 0.9% of its GDP whereas the spending on R&D by USA, Japan, Germany and China are 2.7%, 3.67%, 2.3% and 2.08% respectively of their respective GDPs. In India major R&D expenditure is in Pharmaceutical and software. In this situation further improvement in Textile/clothing industry will get affected if more funds are not pumped into R&D. Instead of creating new centres it is better to invest in the TRAs which have already made good infrastructure and core competency.
TRANSFORMATION OF ATIRA: INITIATIVES TAKEN, SUPPORT REQUIRED
By Shri R.M Sankar, Principal Scientific Officer, ATIRA Origin The genesis of ATIRA was to work as an extension centre to the industry. The context decides the content. As the context changes, the content must change. ATIRA was established over six decades ago. The context then and the context now are radically different Change in the Focus
With rapid change in the industrial scenario, the textile industry is reorienting towards more value addition and alter14
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
native product mix. ATIRA needed adequate transformation in its methodology and structure to fulfill the requirement of the textile sector. With time, scope of textiles has enlarged to suit the needs of the end users both in textile and outside the textile industry which required paradigm shift in our approach apart from huge investment both in capital as well as in human resources. ATIRA has taken up this challenge and has come out with successful results. Undertaking path breaking projects both in the traditional and technical textiles, introduction of innovative areas of work, increasing customer base year after year to the extent of 10 percent, revenue growth of 15 percent are the salient indicators of our success story, besides
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COVER STORY
NO RESEARCH, NO PROGRESS…! judicious utilisation of public funds on State and Central government sponsored projects.
There is lot more to be done. ATIRA has pursued to work on alternative technologies in the light weight concept of mobility sector especially in the mass transportation by using composites that enable aesthetics, energy conservation, easy replaceability of parts and cost reduction. House for the masses uniquely designed using composite panels, to provide affordable, quality, modular and eco-friendly accomodation for the ever increasing populace of India is another area of work in the pursuit. Other innovative areas that are in the agenda are composite pipes, gas cylinders that touch lives of the masses with better alternative material to provide, safety, quality, cost reduction. ATIRA intends to set up an Incubation Centre for Composites to undertake R&D on these areas to develop implementable prototypes on the lines of successful operation of Incubation centre at ATIRA for the development of various types of technical textiles. Technical Textiles
To promote production and usage of technical textiles in the country, it is necessary to develop specialty yarns that are mainly made up of polymers and blended with other fibres like cotton to make newer varieties of fabrics. We propose that the local polymer manufacturers should produce cost effective polymers and should work in tandem with R&D institutions like ATIRA to make fibres and do yarn engineering to develop fabrics which are cost effective solutions under Indian climatic condition. Alternatively, speciality fibres can be supplied by MNCs/PSUs from countries like Russia, China, USA, Korea, France, Taiwan etc. through suitable MOUs for supply of polymer/fibres which ultimately should result in establishment of joint ventures in India. Enzyme – based wet processing
Wet processing sector is known for the heavy water consumption and thus creating issues of water pollution. This perennial problem can be addressed by encouraging adoption of newer technologies such as enzyme based wet processing of cotton cloth as well as low material to liquor ratio dyeing for environment friendly processing. Adoption of waterless chemical processing technologies as well as washing technologies would also address the same and remain ATIRA’s priority areas. ATIRA strives to achieve success in innovative areas of research in textile that has path breaking results for the textile industry and textile applications in other sectors such as construction, mobility, housing that should have significant impact effect on the population at large. ATIRA wishes to set up infrastructure with funding support and deliver results to fulfill the dreams of those who incorporated ATIRA. Innovation centre of global repute
The vision is to transform ATIRA from being an extension centre to industry to innovation centre of global repute. ATIRA has taken several initiatives in R&D and has established four COEs: Nano-web technology, geo-synthetics, composites and
protective textiles. Frankly speaking, ATIRA has come to negotiating a full circle – now is in the process of creating a common state-of-the-art technology facility for the industry like the one that was created in 1947- to work in the area of futuristic textiles – Nano web based technologies, Geo-textiles application to prevent environmental catastrophes like road erosion, soil erosion, land slide etc., development of materials- a textile based preforms and composites that are stronger and lighter than metals with many added aspects conducive for technical applications in construction, auto parts, wind energy, satellite and aero industry needs. ATIRA is collaborating with institutions and industries across the world in above areas to bring in the best –in- class technologies in order to carry out India centric proto type developments. ATIRA has proposed huge investments in composite manufacturing technologies not affordable by single industry and needs funding support. Rein venting ATIRA
Reinventing ATIRA to make it a world class institution will require huge rejuvenation of our physical and intellectual infrastructure. This will require significant resources. It is necessary to think of novel ways of generating these resources, not only through significantly enhanced support from the state and the centre, but also other innovative means. Some of them may be like -
• ATIRA’s scientists/technologists work on proprietary technology and patent the outcome and share it with the industry on royalty basis. Like in Nano-web technology, ATIRA has developed filtration media. Industry should come forward to adopt developments. • Industry can utilize new facilities created at ATIRA on charge basis as no single industrial unit can afford to invest so much on CAPEX. Hence at ATIRA such large CAPEX should be invested for industry usage.
• The industry and ATIRA work on common projects and work out a revenue sharing mechanism. The industry should take initiative and make such common facilities more relevant. • Incubation centre for Technical textiles at ATIRA with the state-of-the-art machineries. Industrial units, entrepreneurs, researchers, academia and the like should take advantage of the infrastructure on charge basis
• In the area of legislative changes, if industry can help R&D institution to get the type of legislation that works in developing countries like China, Indonesia, Thailand etc. in areas such as Geo-textiles, Composites and infrastructure, then the institution can approach the government to convince them to come out with appropriate legislations. There should be common forum of industry-R&D institution and these forums should act as a platform for liasioning with government for necessary policy changes that will be beneficial to R&D, industry, and public at large. f) In the case of Geo-Textiles, there should have a forum with academia as members like leading technical institutions so that Post Graduate and Ph.D. students could take projects and utilize ATIRA’s infrastructure for research activities TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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EVENT REPORT
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ANNOUNCING THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL GOTS CONFERENCE STRONG PARTNERSHIPS FOR SUCCESS
to be held on 22nd May 2015, Mumbai, India Organic cotton is a highly sustainable fibre. It has been ranked above conventional cotton, viscose bamboo and linen in Higg’s Index. Globally, brands, retailers and consumers are increasingly supporting organic cotton. But to use organic fibres is not enough. The processing aspect is also very important. When environment friendly processing techniques, coupled with socially responsible practices are used in processing of organic fibres, the textiles produced are best examples of sustainability.
GOTS combines all these aspects in a holistic way. The textile market is a global one. Thus, a voluntary international standard like GOTS, set in partnership with international stakeholder communities, ensures widespread global acceptance. In contrast to national standards, it also helps to remove barriers to international trade. As such, GOTS is recognised as the leading processing standard (also called the ‘Gold Standard’) for textiles made from organic fibres worldwide and serves as the credible third party assurance for such textiles. India is the largest producer of organic cotton (around 70% of the world). It is also the largest processing and export market of textiles using organic fibres. With more than 1,000 facilities, India is also the country with the highest number of GOTS certified facilities worldwide, which makes it actually the hottest sourcing destination for the same. However, even more commitment is required at garmenting stage to further exploit
the potential in this sector.
It is in this background that GOTS will be organising its firstever international conference on Friday, 22nd May 2015 at The Lalit, Mumbai, India. The theme of the conference is ‘Strong Partnerships for Success’. This event will once again underline and highlight GOTS’ commitment to the Organic Textiles market in general, and India, in particular.
“The conference will be a great opportunity for all players in the textiles value chain, who are committed to sustainability and looking towards implementing the business case for sustainability with the help of GOTS - as their supply chain management instrument of choice” says Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director.
Attendees will benefit from the conference by means of gathering new knowledge and insights in the fields of organic fibre production as well as environmentally and socially responsible textile processing, gain a better understanding of related problems and possible solutions, learn about best practices and business cases for sustainability, harbour business networking and strengthen communication, collaboration and coordination amongst key stakeholders.
NEW TEXTILE POLICY TO BE ANNOUNCED IMMEDIATELY AFTER BUDGET: TEXTILE COMMISSIONER
CMAI’S 60TH NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR INAUGURATED BY TEXTILE COMMISSIONER ON 28TH JANUARY AT GOREGAON –MUMBAI
New textile policy is almost ready and it was expected to be announced immediately after Central Budget, informed Mrs. Kiran Soni Gupta, Textile Commissioner. She made this announcement while inaugurating The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI)’s 60th National Garment Fair on 28th January 2015 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai. The Fair would remain open till 29th January 2015.
Mrs. Kiran Soni Gupta stated that 61 Textile Parks have been sanctioned out of which 55 Textile Parks are presently operating. Further 13 Textile Parks are under consideration. Some of the Textile Parks, like the one at Vishakhapattanam & Coimbatore have shown excellent performance. 16
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Technical Textiles have very bright future. There has been good demand with good scope for the industry to expand the production capacity, further stated Textile Commissioner.
She further informed that Government has been promoting North-East region with focus on agro – textiles and geo – textiles.
Mr. Rahul Mehta, President of The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) & Chairman of International Apparel Federation stated that in the year 2014-15, the growth rate of domestic garment market was 10 to 12%, while the growth rate of export market would be 18 to 20%.
This B2B Fair has 260 stalls displaying over 300 brands of summer collection. It covers men’s wear, women wear, kids wear, ethnic wear, intimate wear etc. good footfall of trade visitors expected during the fair. Mr. Ashok Shah, Chairman of Fair Sub-committee of CMAI stated that next 61st National Garment Fair will be held from 29th June to 1st July 2015. It will be a massive fair with more than 700 stalls spread over entire NSE Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai.
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SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET SECIVRES LACINHCET & GNITSET ELITXET
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TECHNICAL TEXTILES FOCUS
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TECHNICAL TEXTILES INTO FILTRATION FABRICS Overview of Technical Textiles Global technical textiles market is at growth phase. Technical textiles market was worth USD 133.93 billion in 2012 is expected to increase to USD 160.38 billion by the end of 2018. In terms of volumes, the global demand is expected to reach 30.71 million tons by 2018, growing at a moderate CAGR of 3.3% from 2012 to 2018. Their wide range of appliMr. Avinash Mayekar cations, lack of competition and MD, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. growing consumer and industrial demands make it a big opportunity area for Technical Textile sector. Technical Textiles itself is a vast sector. Depending on the product characteristics, functional requirements and enduser applications the highly diversified range of technical textile products have been grouped into 12 categories based on application namely Agrotech, Meditech, Buildtech,Mobiltech, Clothtech, Oekotech, Geotech, Packtech, Hometech, Protech, Indutech and Sportech. Technical textiles have wide area of applications into filtration products in industries like mining, pharmaceutical, food processing, desalination, automobile & aircraft. Introduction to filtration
Filtration is the process where solids are separated from fluids by interposing medium through which only fluid can pass. Filtration is used to separate particles & fluid in a suspension, where fluid can be liquid, gas or supercritical fluid. Depending upon the application, either one or both the components can be isolated. Porosity & permeability are two main characteristics of filter media. Permeability increases with increase in porosity of the filter media. Filtration can be classified into microfiltration, ultrafiltration, nanofiltration& reverse osmosis depending upon the size of fluid it can pass through. Global filtration market is growing at rate of 7.6 % annually and will reach to the mark of USD 65.9 billion in 2015.Textile filter media can be classified into Woven filters, needle felted& knitted filters. Woven & non-woven filters are produced into flat form & then formed into tubular shape while knitted filters are directly formed into tubular shape only.Woven filters are made of yarn with a definite repeated pattern. Felted filters are formed by laying fibres into mat then bonded together by thermal, mechanical or chemical means & attached to loosely woven backing material. A membrane filter is a special treatment where a thin, porous membrane is bonded to the support fabric. Woven filters are generally used with low energy cleaning methods such as shaking and reverse-air. Felted fabrics are usually used with higher energy cleaning systems such as pulse-jet cleaning. Membrane filters were developed in efforts 18
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to achieve high efficiency particle capture and to handle flue gas conditions where high moisture and resulting high pressure drop problems frequently occur. Woven filters have open spaces around the fibers. The weave design used will depend onthe intended application of the woven filter. Woven filters are designed into plain, twill or satin weave. Woven weave is the tightest structure offering maximum resistance retaining particles very quickly whereas twill & satin weave are comparatively loose structure giving more flow rate.
Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film. Some of the important characteristics of nonwoven fabrics make it suitable for filtration applications such as porosity, durability, strength, washability, bacteria barrier, resistance to chemicals & high temperature resistance. Following diagram explains manufacturing technologies of nonwoven fabrics. Nonwovens are manufactured in two steps namely web formation & web consolidation.Formation of web can be done in various ways like Card, Water, Air, or Melt Spinning.Web Consolidation can be done by using Needles, Water, Chemicals, Heat or Air. Depending on the technology of their production, Nonwovens are named accordingly. Following diagram explain various nonwoven technologies. NW Technologies
Web Formation + Consolidation Technologies
Web formation Technologies
Wet-laid Technologies (similar to paper forming technology)
Dry-laid Technologies
Carded
Spunlaid Technology
Airlaid Spunbond
Spunmelt
Melt-blown
Web Consolidation
Hydroentangled (Spunlace)
Needle Punched
Thermal Bonding
Resin/ Chemical Bonding
Air-laced
Sources: McKenna and Turner 1989 &Greiner 1993.
Major applications
• Power Stations- A baghouse is an air pollution controldevice which removes particulates out of air orgas released from commercial processes orcombustion for electricity generation. Powerplants, steel mills, pharmaceutical industries,food manufacturers, chemical producers andother industrial companies often usebaghouses to control emission of airpollutants into the atmosphere.
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TECHNICAL TEXTILES FOCUS
TECHNICAL TEXTILES INTO FILTRATION FABRICS Characteristics of various fibres used as filter media
• Water Filtration -Reverse osmosis is a water purification technology that uses a semipermeable membrane to remove larger particles from drinking water. In reverse osmosis, an applied pressure is used to overcome osmotic pressure, a colligative property that is driven by chemical potential, a thermodynamic parameter. Reverse osmosis can remove many types of molecules and ions from solutions, including bacteria, and is used in both industrial processes and the production of potable water. The result is that the solute is retained on the pressurized side of the membrane and the pure solvent is allowed to pass to the other side
• HVAC filters - HVAC stands for heating, ventilating, and air conditioning. The HVAC systems are used in industries, commercial and residential buildings where humidity and temperature need to be closely regulated. HVAC filters belong to the category of air filtration products. The HVAC filters include pre filters, medium efficiency filters and HEPA filters. HEPA or High Efficiency Particulate Air filters are high efficiency filters capable of removing 99.97% of airborne particles of 0.3 micrometers (μm) diameter. Filters capable of removing 99.999% of dust, pollen, mold, bacteria and any airborne particles of size 120 nanometres or larger from the air are categorised as ULPA or Ultra Low Penetration Air filter. The major filter media used in HVAC filters are nonwoven and made of polyester, polypropylene and glass fibre. These nonwoven media are generally needle punched and have a GSM of 200-250
• Vacuum cleaners-Vacuum cleaners have a filter to remove the dust from the exhaust air. The dust is collected in a paper bag which can be disposed of. Some of the vacuum cleaners also use HEPA filters. The major filter media are nonwoven and made of polyester, polypropylene and glass fibre. Nonwoven fabric used for vacuum cleaners are generally made up of needle punched and have a GSM of 200-250.
• Automotive - Automotive filters are primarily of three types - Oil filter, Air filter and Fuel filter. The filters clean the oil, air and fuel by blocking dirt and other unwanted particles from entering the vehicle system. The technical textile used in the filters is cellulose and polyester non-woven filter paper.The characteristics of the automotive filter are based on the specification of the original equipment manufacturers: permeability, corrugation depth, bursting strength, pore size, volatile content, resin content and width and height. All the three filters are required for proper functioning of internal combustion engine. The technical textile used in the filters is polyester and cellulose non-woven fabric of around 120-150 GSM. • Geo-textiles- The non-woven geo-textile fabric is a common choice for areas looking to stabilize, separate or filter materials. All non-woven fabrics come with a needle-punched exterior that allows thin water particles to filter through the fabric while keeping soil from filtering through. This geo-textile filter fabric helps to retain fine particles when water passes from fine to coarse-grained soil layers. Growth drivers
Major drivers for the growth of global filtration industries are growing consumer awareness regarding health issues, product safety, air quality & water purity. Manufacturers are looking for purest form of products due to consumer demand for higher standard products. Global pollution levels are growing day by day. Efficient filtration technologies are required to control pollution levels to optimum. The Technological advancements in both, the product and application segments would create opportunities for growth in the global market. Technical Textiles has huge application area in filtration industry. Technical textile has advantages of simple manufacturing process, less expensive & good strength so today it is widely used into filtration industry. With the continuous R & D and innovations, textile filter industry can grow exponentially! TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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BRAND FOCUS
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RIETER EXHIBITS TECHNOLOGY PARTS & CONVERSIONS AT TEXFAIR INDIA.
T
exfair 2015 is one of the most important international trade fairs for the Indian textile industry focusing on machinery and spare parts. It was held at the CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex in Coimbatore, South India, from 9 to 12 January 2015. Rieter participated with its prime focus on Rieter Com4® spinning units, the benefits of original technology spare parts and Rieter’s ELO Service. Rieter presented models of all 4 end-spinning machines, technology upgrades and conversions, spare parts kits and the ELO Service model.
platform was ideal for obtaining more details with supportive material such as brochures, leaflets and videos displayed at the booth.
Rieter believes that this in-depth knowledge will facilitate communication with contract partners in the spinning industry and develop close interaction with them.
The main objective was to update the industry on the latest developments and unique features of state-of-the-art machines, Rieter quality standard spares, accessories and services offered to the industry. Great interest shown on the Rieter booth
Customers received information about the new products offered by Rieter. However, the main focus was on the core information on machinery and spare parts that was conveyed to visitors. Rieter’s sales team explained the inherent features of the entire product range and their benefits for customers. With the help of a wide range of spare parts, technology parts, upgrades and conversion kits on display, the team shared information about the latest developments and enlightened them with benefits and end uses.
The ELO Service model on the booth met with keen interest from customers’ engineering teams, who had good interaction with our ELO team about the preventive model and gathered information supported by some technical questions. The
2014 FINANCIAL YEAR: DOUBLE-DIGIT SALES GROWTH WITH STRONG SECOND
2014 financial year: double-digit sales growth with strong second half of the year – HALF OF THE YEAR –ORDER INTAKE AT THE LEVEL OF SALES order intake at the level of sales
Rieter took full advantage of the market dynamics in the 2014 financial year and improved its market share, thanks to successful products and extended presence in Asia. The company achieved double-digit sales growth with a particularly strong performance in the second half of the year. Sales increased by a total of 11% to 1 153.4 million CHF. Orders received reached the level of sales in the year under review, at 1 146.1 million CHF. Rieter had a backlog of orders in hand of around 730 million CHF at the end of 2014. This means a high level of capacity utilisation until well into the 2015 financial year. Rieter will publish its full annual financial statements and the annual report for 2014 on March 18, 2015.
2014
2013
Change
Change in local currencies
1 146.1
1 259.4
-9%
-8%
• Spun Yarn Systems
973.8
1 084.3
-10%
-9%
• Premium Textile Components
172.3
175.1
-2%
0%
CHF million
Orders received
Sales
1 153.4
1 035.3
11%
13%
• Spun Yarn Systems
980.9
857.8
14%
16%
• Premium Textile Components
172.4
177.5
-3%
-1%
Winterthur, February 2015 CHAIN | Feb 2015 22 TEXTILE4,VALUE Dear shareholder:
Today, Rieter is able to offer products at the highest quality level from all its locations. Thus, the company further improved its leading position in 2014.
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BRAND FOCUS
BIRLA CELLULOSE RECOGNIZES YOUNG DESIGNERS IN THE STATE HUNT FOR THE MOST FLUID DESIGNER AT LIVA D’DESIGNER 2014- 2015 @SURAT LIVA presents D’Designer 2015- a design talent hunt open to budding fashion designers from hub designers to young fashion students. D Designer is an unique initiative by Birla Cellulose – a division The Aditya Birla Group. In its third year, this one of its kind talent hunt nurtures young fashion designers and provides them a platform to showcase their potential in a crucial market such as Gujarat.
This year the event received overwhelming 2000 entries from across the state. These entries were shortlisted via various rounds where the participants were asked to create some unique and fluid creations using LIVA- a fabric made with natural fibres from the house of Aditya Birla Group. Only the best top 10 participants made it to the final round and displayed their dazzling collection made using LIVA.
The event kicked off with a press conference at Grand Bhagwati, Surat at 3pm rewarding the efforts of number of designer students who participated. Mr.Manohar Samuel, President, Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cellulose addressed the audience on how this event looks at encouraging young talents of fashion. The conference was graced by other eminent dignitaries from the fashion industry; ace designer Narendra Kumar Ahmed and Mr Subhas Dhawan from F Studio.
The fashion-show witnessed the following LIVA Collections hit the ramp during the D’Designer finale: 1)Delhi Meets Vegas- Fusion wear made fluid with LIVA 2)Life is a beach - Relaxed resort wear with LIVA 3)Light & Shadow – Drama of black & white in interesting cuts 4)Red Affairs- Red dress made gracefully glamorous with LIVA 5)Gujarat Couture – Celebrating Gujarati spirit with LIVA
Speaking on the occasion ace designer Mr.Narendra Kumar said “This initiative by Birla Cellulose is a great opportunity for our talented young designers to express their creativity and garner the experience they require before they leave to pursue their respective careers. The participants got the opportunity to work with LIVA – a fluid fabric made with natural fibres and created unique cuts and silhouettes.” D’Designer 2015 promised to be a grand event where the students sparkled and shined through various ensembles.
Liva Accredited Partner Forum - LAPF the elite body of supply chain partners, who offer Liva fabrics by leveraging innovation, great quality and fast service have welcomed the event to Surat. LAPF members in Surat have innovated in fabrics and F-Studio a prominent LAPF partner has showcased brilliant designs and trends to facilitate coneumsers and the designers with much needed supplies even in small quantities. About LIVA
Addressing the audience, Mr.Manohar Samuel, President Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cellulose said “This year the event has received tremendous response. We had three objectives for this initiative, ‘’1) Encourage design skills of budding designers in Gujarat to create future leaders in fashion 2) Have these designers work with LIVA – a fluid fabric made with natural fibres to create innovative cuts & silhouettes for new age Indian consumer 3) Appreciate Surat’s leadership in women’s wear category and progress alignment with brands & consumers, he added” The gala occasion exhilarated the audience with dazzling display of various collections aimed to express fluidity innovatively
LIVA is a new age fabric made with natural fibres from Pulp &Fibre Business of Aditya Birla Group. It’s is a fluid fabric that gives a glamorous drape, soft, has shine and is extremely comfortable. LIVA is made from natural fibers/cellulosic that is derived from wood pulp. Hence, it gives a beautiful flow to the garments and enhances ease of movement. It takes the shape of the body and hence gives you perfect look. It doesn’t tug out like other stiff fabrics. It is extremely soft and has a great feeling on the skin. It also has a natural shine that makes it look dressy unlike other fabrics. And finally since it is natural, it has great breathability and it is extremely comfortable to wear.
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REVIEWED ARTICLE
www.textilevaluechain.com TECHNICAL TEXTILES
TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS *** This Article is Reviewed by Dr.S.K. Chattopadhyay, Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT there is additional demand of about US 20 billion for luggage components, camping equipment, sports equipment etc. To understand the scale of development of textiles in sports, one must appreciate the tremendous development of sport itself. A few decades back, sport textiles was limited and there were few like sking gloves, specialized foot wear and very limited protective coverings for knees and elbows. There were no special insert pads for shorts, no gel moulding saddles, no elastane riding shorts to reduce muscle fatigue [1-6]. Mayur Basuk
Amit Sengupta
Scientists, Wool Research Association, Thane, Maharashtra, India (Linked to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India)
Abstract
Textiles used in the high risk games playa major role as they perform three major functions. First, they are used as impact protective clothing to absorb the energy of theimpact event so that the body segment being protected is either not damaged or,if damaged, the level of damage is acceptable. Secondly, they are used to perform that particular game and finally textile materials provide comfort to the wearer. A high risk textile used in various sport supports & helps the athletes to better performance. The aim of this paper is to give an overview on the textiles which are involved in the high risk games such as boxing, fencing, Judo, wrestling etc. Keywords: Sport Textiles, Classifications, High risk games
1. Introduction:
Worldwide there is an increased interest in the nontraditional sports activities like high risk games & adventure sports particularly among the ladies and youths. Among the Indians, high risk games & adventure sports activities are still at a nascent stage, but the country is a hub for adventure sports for tourists. With the increase in living standard and change in life style, the high risk games & adventure sports will grow in India. In addition, the manufacturing activities of textiles for sports including high risk games & adventure sports are shifting from the developed countries to the developing countries. The Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this opportunity to business. Textile materials are used in all sports including high risk games & adventure sports. There are no sports without textiles. In recent years, international sports and activity wear market has become extremely dynamic. The UK market for sportswear has grown to more than US 7.8 billion in 2012 and will grow further in future. For 2014 the world sports clothing and footwear market is expected to reach a total size of almost US 17.0 billion of which Western Europe is likely to represent 20%, North America 22%, Japan and South Korea 12% while rest of the world would be 40%. In addition,
Textile materials are used in all sports as sportswear, as sports equipment and sports footwear. The strong rise in participation in professional and outdoor sport has alsobeen an important factor responsible for the development trends in consumption of textiles in sport. Now a day, the discrepancy of performance among competitive athletes is getting smaller and smaller. Therefore wearing high tech textile could help to get advantage over competitors[6, 7]. Sportech falls in one of the twelve categories of technical textiles. Further, Sport textiles can be categorized asfollows:
(I) Sports Wear – Apparels or Special Clothing systems for comfort, compatibility and performance of the sports person by improved functional characteristics like moisture management, soil guard, electrometric, antimicrobial properties, ease of use, etc.
(II) Sports Goods &equipments–These are the active sport Items for specific sport like inflatable balls for volley ball, football and rugby, hockey sticks, golf club, etc. (III) Sports Accessories– Efficient and durable sporting items providing designated playing conditions for the targeted sports, viz. Artificial turfs, rings, etc. Textiles used in the high risk games provideprotectionto the wearer by absorbing the energy of theimpact as well as they are used to perform that particular game with comfort property.[5] 2. Various high risk games:
There are following games mentioned below which can be categorized as high risk:Boxing,Fencing,Judo, Wrestling, Taekwondo, Weight lifting, Hot air Ballooning, Ropes for paragliding & mountaineering.
2.1 Boxing: Boxing is a combat sport in which two people engage in a contest of strength, speed, reflexes, endurance, and will, by throwing punches with gloved hands against each other. There are three main styles in boxing: out-fighter (“boxer”), brawler (or “slugger”),and
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TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS In-fighter (“swarmer”). These styles may be divided into several special subgroups, such as counter puncher, etc. The main philosophy of the styles is, that each style has an advantage over one, but disadvantage over the other one. 2.1.1 Boxing Equipments: Boxing equipmentsconsist of Boxing Gloves, Boxing Punching Gloves, Boxing Head Guards, Boxing Punching Pads, Abdominal Guard, Speed Ball, Punching Bag etc. Boxing equipments are made of PU laminated / PVC coated fabrics, woven polyester fabric/ Nylon fabric. PU/PVC coated fabrics are the most commonly used fabrics.
Boxing gloves: Boxing gloves are cushioned gloves that fighters wear on their hands during boxing matches. The term also refers to gloves used in training, though these often differ from competition gloves. Modern boxing gloves were developed to protect the hands of the striker during a boxing match though specialized gloves are now available for competitions, sparring practice and other types of training. The use of modern boxing gloves typically results in fewer superItem
Glove body
Padding
Elastic tape Lining
Material
Leather
a) horse hair
b) Coarse cotton
Silken elastic tape/
Khaki cotton drill
Sewing Polyamide/cotton cor0esp=-un thread
ficial facial injuries but does not reduce the risk of brain damage for participants, and may even increase it because of the ability to throw stronger punches to the head without hurting the hands.
Modern boxing gloves started showing up towards end of the 90’s. Over ten years of engineering and testing by some of the biggest boxing manufacturers and sport names have helped create safe, durable and long lasting equipment. Modern boxing gloves include breathable mesh palm technology with Velcro and 100% complete leather backed stitching, with some also including suspension cushioning and re-enforced padding for the boxer. The UK use AIBA to approve the new design of gloves including the 12oz and 14oz and 16oz weight categories to coincide with the amount of leather and support boxers can use in fights. Gloves used in amateur boxing are frequently red or blue, with a white “scoring area” to help judges more easily see and record points. Common weights for gloves in the United States are sixteen, twelve and eight ounces. Manufacturing of boxing gloves in India is done mostly by small scale industries. These industries are labour intensive and are generally clustered together. The key clusters for manufacturing of gloves are located at Meerut.Meerut excelling in the Cricket and boxing sports goods industry [6].
Table 1: Materials for the Manufacture of Boxing Gloves[8]
Requirements
Conforming to IS : 5597-l 970 ‘Specification for leatherfor boxing gloves’. It shall be fat lacquered or oiledor both and the grain side shall be smooth finished.The recommended thickness is 0’7 to 1’0 mm in thefinished stage. In hygienic condition, and curled physically or chemically before stuffing.
Well carded, clean, dry and reasonably free from seeds and other extraneous matters. Having width between 20 to 25 mm and minimum elongation of 250 percent when stretched in anormal way.
The yarn used in the manufacture of drill cloth shall besatisfactory in evenness and reasonably free fromspinning defects. The cloth shall be 3 shaft 2/lwarp faced twill weave. The cloth when visuallyexamined shall be reasonably free from spinning,weaving and processing defects. The drill shall alsogenerally comply with the requirements of IS: J77-1977 ‘Specification for cotton drills (thirdrevision) ‘. Tkt - 50 Nominal count and construction-Nm 50/2, Z/Finishing twist Finish - Glace Single thread breaking load - 2’6 kgf.
2.2 Fencing: Fencing is the martial art of fighting with blades. The most common version of fencing today, also called olympicfencing or competitive fencing.Traditionally, the fencers’ uniform is white (black for instructors). This may be due to the occasional pre-electric practice of covering the point of the weapon in dye, soot, or colored chalk in order to make it easier for the referee to determine the placing of the touches. Techniques or movements in fencing can be divided into two categories: offensive and quickly de26
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TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS fensive. Some techniques can fall into both categories (e.g. the beat). Certain techniques are used offensively, with the purpose of landing a hit on your opponent while holding the right of way (foil and sabre). Others are used defensively, to protect against a hit or obtain the right of way [9, 10].
A small gorget of folded fabric is sewn in around the collar to prevent an opponent’s blade from slipping under the mask and along the jacket upwards towards the neck.
Plastron, an underarm protector, which goes underneath the jacket and provides double protection on the sword arm side and upper arm. There is no seam under the arm, which would line up with the jacket seam and provide a weak spot.
One glove for the weapon arm with a gauntletthat prevents blades from going up the sleeve and causing injury, as well as protecting the hand and providing a good grip.
Breeches or knickers which are a pair of short trousersthat end just below the knee. The breeches are required to have 10 cm of overlap with the jacket. Most are equipped with suspenders (braces).
Knee-length or thigh high socks which cover knee and thighs.
Shoes with flat soles and reinforcement on the inside of the back foot and heel of front foot, to prevent wear from lunging.
2.2.1 Protective clothing for Fencing: Fencing outfits are made of tough cotton or nylon. Kevlar was added to top level uniform pieces (jacket, breeches, underarm protector, lame(a type of fabric woven or knit with thin ribbons of metallic yarns), and the bib of the mask) following the Smirnov incident at the 1982 World Championships in Rome. However, Kevlar breaks down in chlorine and UV light, complicating the cleaning process. In recent years other ballistic fabrics, such as Dyneema, have been developed that resist puncture and which do not have Kevlar’s issues. FIE rules state that the tournament outfits must be made of fabric that resists a force of 800 newtons (180 lbf) and that the mask bib must resist double that amount [9]. The complete fencing kit includes:
Form-fitting jacket with strap (croissard) which goes between the legs.
waist.
In sabre fencing, jackets that are cut along the
Mask, including a bib which protects the neck. The mask can usually support 12 kilograms (26 lb) on the metal mesh and 350 newtons (79 lbf) of penetration resistance on the bib. FIE regulations dictate that masks must withstand 25 kilograms (55 lb) on the mesh and 1,600 newtons (360 lbf) on the bib. Some modern masks have a see-through visor in the front of the mask. These have been used at high level competitions (World Championships etc.), however, they are currently banned in foil and épée by the FIE, following a 2009 incident in which a visor was pierced during the European Junior Championship competition. There are foil, saber, and three-weapon masks.
Plastic chest protector, mandatory for females. While male versions of the chest protector are also available, they were, until recently, primarily worn by instructors, who are hit far more often during training than their students. These are increasingly popular in foil, as the hard surface increases the likelihood that a hit fails to register, as well as with youth competitors.
Lame is a layer of electrically conductive material worn over the fencing jacket that entirely covers the valid target area. It is worn only in foil and sabre, and serves to distinguish hits on target from those that are off-target. In épée, the entire body is a target, so it is not necessary to have a lamé. In foil the lamé is sleeveless, while in sabre the lamé has sleeves and ends in a straight line across the waist. A body cord is necessary to register scoring: it attaches to the weapon and runs inside the jacket sleeve, then down the back and out to the scoring box. In sabre and foil the body cord connects to the lamé in order to create a circuit to the TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS scoring box.
Fencing masters often choose a heavier protective jacket, usually reinforced by plastic foam to cushion the numerous hits an instructor has to endure. Sometimes in practice, masters wear a protective sleeve or a leg leather to protect their fencing arm or leg.
Jacket
Breeches or Knickers
The modern use of the blue judogi for high level competition was first suggested by Anton Geesink at the 1986 Maastricht IJF DC Meeting. For competition, a blue judogi is worn by one of the two competitors for ease of distinction by judges, referees, and spectators. In Japan, both judoka use a white judogi and the traditional red obi (based on the colors of the Japanese flag) is affixed to the belt of one competitor. Outside Japan, a colored obi may also be used for convenience in minor competitions, the blue judogi only being mandatory at the regional or higher levels, depending on organization. Japanese practitioners and traditionalists tend to look down on the use of blue because of the fact that judo is considered a pure sport, and replacing the pure white judogi for the impure blue, is an offense.
Plastron
Gloves
2.3.1 Judo uniform: Judo practitioners traditionally wear white uniforms called keikogi practice clothing or judogi judo clothing.Sometimes abbreviated in the west as “gi”. It comprises a heavy cotton kimono-like jacket called an uwagi, similar to traditional hanten, workers jackets fastened by an obi, belt, coloured to indicate rank, and cotton draw-string zubon, trousers. Early examples of keikogi had short sleeves and trouser legs and the modern long-sleeved judogi was adopt ed in 1906.
Mask
2.3Judo:: Judo is a modern martial art, combat and Olympic sport created in Japan in 1882 by Jigoro Kano Its most prominent feature is its competitive element, where the objective is to either throw or takedown an opponent to the ground, immobilize or otherwise subdue an opponent with a pin, or force an opponent to submit with a joint lock or a choke. Strikes and thrusts by hands and feet as well as weapons defenses are a part of judo, but only in prearranged forms and are not allowed in judo competition or free practice. A judo practitioner is called a judoka.
For events organized under the auspices of the International judo Federation (IJF), judogi have to bear the IJF Official Logo Mark Label. This label demonstrates that the judogi has passed a number of quality control tests to ensure it conforms to construction regulations ensuring it is not too stiff, flexible, rigid or slippery to allow the opponent to grip or to perform techniques [11]. Official Suppliers of Judo Uniform as per International judo federation are as follows:
Green Hill GmbH, SFJAM - NORIS FRANCE. Adidas Double-D Martial Arts, Mizuno Corporation, Hayakawa Textile Industries Co., Ltd.,Budo Sport AG, Essimo BV,MATSURU B.V., Fighting Films International LLP, BasicItalia con socio unico, Danrho Kwon KG, Dao Korea, Taishan Sports Equipment Group Co., Ltd., SFJAM - NORIS FRANCE, BSW GmbH, AGGLOREX B.V.B.A, Green Hill GmbH, Swain Sports a Division of Dollamur LP, TROCELLEN Italia S.P.A [12].
Table 2.Quality parameters required for Judo Uniform as per International Judo Federation (IJF) [11]
1 A. 2 Fabric/Material JACKET
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Detailed Check Results Yes No FiberCottonؤ70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐feel ✔
Upper jacket fabric strength in vertical direction when in use: ؤ 2200 N This is additional rule to the IJF Guidance (JIS L 1096, 8.1.2 Breaking Strength, raveled strip, sample width: 5 cm) 3 Upper jacket fabric (Sashiko part) weight: 700–1000 g/m2 (after wash/dry) 4 Color：White: natural cotton, Blue: judgment by Pantone scale after TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015 wash/dry [18‐4051TCX(TPX) – 18‐4039TCX(TPX), or 285M – 286M] 5 Upper: double SashikoWeave, Lower: Plain, or Twill with diamond pattern 6
✔
✔
✔
✔
1 A. 2 Fabric/Material JACKET
Detailed Check Results Yes No FiberCottonؤ70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐feel ✔
B. 1 Fabric/Material TROUSERS 2
Fiber：Cottonؤ70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐ ✔ feel Color：White: natural cotton, Blue: judgment by Pantone scale after ✔ wash/dry [18‐4051TCX(TPX) – 18‐4039TCX(TPX), or 285M – 286M] Reverse use of the fabric is not allowed. ✔ Sashiko lines (warp line) must be horizontal when wearing jacket. ✔ Upper Sashiko fabric part must be 50－55 % of total length of the ✔ jacket Stitches allowed only for back joint, both sleeves, and both body sides ✔ in upper Sashiko part. (except joint of upper and lower jacket) Collar : Twill weave, width: 4 – 5 cm with 5‐row stitch (4‐row for zigzag) ✔ Inside material of collar must not be exposed outside. Collar thickness: No more than 1cm（Except back joint part, if ✔ applicable） Collar weave: Twill, Construction according to Guidance c) (1) A, B, C, D ✔ Collar Hardness Test: within 4.0 cm (after wash/dry, weight 10 kg) ✔ Collar must be easily folded vertically into two at chest‐pad inserted ✔ place. Sleeve cuff width: within 3 cm ✔ Lower side of sleeves must be seamed by rolled seam. ✔ Reinforcement tape（except side slit）: within 3cm wide, cotton thin ✔ fabric, plain or twill, up to 3‐row stitch Jacket back joint width: within 3 cm（ifapplicable）Reinforcement not ✔ allowed Shoulder pad：sameSashiko fabric, up to 5–row stitch, within 1/3 ✔ back‐body Chest pad: same Sashiko fabric, one half‐oval shaped, up to 5–row ✔ stitch, The length must be about 1/4 of back body hip‐joint length. Overlap of shoulder pad and chest pad: within 5cm ✔ Armpit pad：Oval, 5 to 8‐row stitch, same Sashiko fabric, plain, or twill ✔ Reinforcement tape for both side slit: cotton plain or twill to cover slit ✔ edge Side slit length is 1/2 to 2/3 of the lower jacket. One back slit not allowed. A reinforcement fabric for above slit‐ends allowed: within 100 cm2 ✔ Reverse use of the fabric is not allowed. ✔ Knee pad allowed: same fabric, on backside, below lower part of crotch ✔ Waist string needed: same fabric, rubber band not allowed, 1 or 2 ✔ string loops Reinforcement fabric for both side slit allowed: same fabric on the ✔ backside Gusset must be stitched onto the crotch part. ✔ TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb Trouser cuff: within 3 cm wide, reinforcement tape allowed ✔ 2015
Upper jacket fabric strength in vertical direction when in use: ؤ 2200 N ✔ This is additional rule to the IJF Guidance www.textilevaluechain.com TECHNICAL TEXTILES (JIS L 1096, 8.1.2 Breaking Strength, raveled strip, sample width: 5 cm) 2 (after 3 Upper jacket fabric (Sashiko part) weight: 700–1000 g/m Table 2.Quality parameters required for Judo Uniform as per International Judo Federation (IJF) [11] ✔ wash/dry) 4 Color：White: natural cotton, Blue: judgment by Pantone scale after ✔ wash/dry [18‐4051TCX(TPX) – 18‐4039TCX(TPX), or 285M – 286M] 5 Upper: double SashikoWeave, Lower: Plain, or Twill with diamond ✔ pattern 6 Float number of Sashiko: 4 to 5 / inch（after wash/dry） ✔ 7 Warp/weft Yarn Count and Density for Sashiko fabric (after wash/dry) ✔
C. Sewing/ Fabrication JACKET
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18
D. Sewing/ Fabrication TROUSERS
19 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
1
Reinforcement tape for cuff: within 3cm wide, cotton thin fabric, plain ✔ or twill, up to 3‐row stitch Outer‐face fabric must be 100 % cotton. Belt must be sturdy and not be ✔
29
19 A reinforcement fabric for above slit‐ends allowed: within 100 cm2 1 Reverse use of the fabric is not allowed. 2 Knee pad allowed: same fabric, on backside, below lower part of crotch D. Sewing/ TECHNICAL www.textilevaluechain.com 3 TEXTILES Waist string needed: same fabric, rubber band not allowed, 1 or 2 Fabrication string loops TROUSERS 4 Reinforcement fabric for both side slit allowed: same fabric on the TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS backside 5 Gusset must be stitched onto the crotch part. 6 Trouser cuff: within 3 cm wide, reinforcement tape allowed 7 E. Belt
1
2 3 4 5 6 7
Reinforcement tape for cuff: within 3cm wide, cotton thin fabric, plain or twill, up to 3‐row stitch Outer‐face fabric must be 100 % cotton. Belt must be sturdy and not be easily loosen or broken. But the belt must have adequate flexibility and softness Main core must be non‐woven fabric. (rubbers or elastics not allowed) Reinforcement fabric must be cotton plain or twill using yarn count 20/1 or finer. Sub‐core (optional), if used, must be the same material as reinforcement. Belt width must be 4 cm to 5 cm Stitch: 8 to 13 rows of straight stitches. When pushing belt by hand from the both ends toward knot, the belt knot must not be loosening.
2.4. Wrestling: Wrestling is a combat sport involving grappling type techniques such as clinches fighting, throws and takedowns, joint locks, pins and other grappling holds. A wrestling bout is a physical competition, between two (occasionally more) competitors or sparring partners, who attempt to gain and maintain a superior position. There are a wide range of styles with varying rules with both traditional historic and modern styles. Wrestling techniques have been incorporated into other martial arts as well as military handto-hand combat systems [9].
2.5. Taekwondo:Traditional taekwondo typically refers to the martial art as it was established in the 1950s and 1960s in the South Korean military and in various civilian organizations, including schools and universities. In particular, the names and symbolism of the both the traditional patterns and the newer poomsae often refer to elements of Korean history, culture and religious philosophy. This symbolism is replicated in the Korean flag.Taekwondo combines combat and self-defense techniques with sport and exercise [9, 13]. Uniform : A taekwondo practitioner typically wears a uniform (dobok), often white but sometimes black (or other colors), with a belt (dee) tied around the waist. There are at least three major styles of dobok, with the most obvious differences being in the style of jacket: (1) the cross-over front jacket that resembles traditional Asian clothing, (2) the Vneck jacket (no cross-over) typically worn by WTF practitioners, and (3) the vertical-closing front jacket (no cross-over) typically worn by ITF practitioners. The belt color and any insignia thereon indicate the student’s rank. In general, the darker the color, the higher the rank. The school or place where instruction is given is called the dojang. The grandmaster of the dojang is called a gwanjangnim; the master (senior instructor or head of dojang) is called sabeomnim; the instructor is called gyosannim; and the assistant instructor is 30
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✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
✔
✔ ✔
✔
✔
✔ ✔
✔
✔ ✔
✔
called jogyonim. The person’s seniority in the dojang is not what distinguishes their title, but rather it is the degree, or dan, of black belt [14, 15].
2.6. Weightlifting: Weightlifting is an athletic discipline in the modern Olympics in which the athlete attempts a maximum-weight single lift of a barbell loaded with weight plates. The two competition lifts in order are the snatch and the clean and jerk. Each weightlifter receives three attempts in each, and the combined total of the highest two successful lifts determines the overall result within a bodyweight category. Bodyweight categories are different for women and men. A lifter who fails to complete at least one successful snatch and one successful clean and jerk also fails to total, and therefore receives an “incomplete” entry for the competition. The clean and press was once a competition lift, but was discontinued due to difficulties in judging proper form. The sport is controlled by the International Weightlifting Federation (IWF). Based in Budapest, it was founded in 1905. Athletes compete in a division determined by their body mass. There are eight male divisions and seven female divisions since 1998 [9, 16]. Men’s weight classes:56 kg (123 lb), 62 kg (137 lb), 69 kg (152 lb), 77 kg (170 lb), 85 kg (187 lb), 94 kg (207 lb), 105 kg (231 lb) and over 105 kg; Women’s weight classes:48 kg (106 lb), 53 kg (117 lb), 58 kg (128 lb), 63 kg (139 lb), 69 kg (152 lb), 75 kg (165 lb), and over 75 kg.
2.6.1 Weightlifting belts:Weightlifting belts are specially designed to support the back during weightlifting/weight training. They create a rigid wall around the waist and lower back, providing bio-feedback to our body, promoting correct body alignment when lifting. Back injuries can happen these belts are not used. Weightlifting belt encourages good
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TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS form& allows shoulders, back and thigh muscles to all work in tandem to lift heavy weights. Range of motion is limited by these belts which reduce stress on the lower back and spine, preventing hyperextension, and increasing the ability to lift longer and safer. Generally,Weightlifting belts are made of nylon. Nylon belts come in a variety of closure styles, with “roller buckles” as well as Velcro closures, which are also a matter of personal preference [17-19].
2.7 Hot Air Balloons: Ballooning fabric is the envelope fabric used in hot air balloons, inflatable balloons and bouncies. These are high tenacity strong fabrics made out of polyester, taffeta or nylon often coated with silicon. The ballooning fabric industry is a very niche and small market with very limited players across the globe catering specifically to the hot air balloon demand in India. In addition, the market for inflatable balloons which are often used for publicity is growing are where ballooning fabrics are used these days. [6] The ballooning fabrics are usually classified on the basis of the usage. The three major usage of ballooning fabrics are: 1. In hot air Balloons –Silicon coated Nylon or taffeta fabrics are used for the ballooningrequirements in Hot air Balloons. These are high tenacity fabrics tested for fire retardant properties, strength and abrasion resistance. These require high tenacity silicon coated taffeta or nylon fibres. They constitute a small but very important part of the hot air balloon. It has a general life of about 5 years.
2. In inflatables –Inflatables are gas or air filled inflatable balloons that are used for publicityduring events. These have come into demand recently with organisations investing on their publicity stunts. Here the entire product is a technical textile product. 3. In Bouncies and zorb balls –Bouncies are air filled fabrics made of nylon or polyester, which areused as a playing ground for kinds. It can be often seen at different malls or fairs. [6, 20, 21]
2.8Ropes: Ropes are used in a number of high risk&adventure sports applications which includes climbing, para gliding, ballooning etc. Normally braided nylon, polypropylene, polyester yarns are used. For high performance applications aramids, high modulus polyethylene yarns are used. In India Skipping ropes are manufactured mainly at Kolkata [4, 9].
A rope is a group of plies, yarns or strands which are twisted or braided together in order to combine them into a larger and stronger form. Ropes have tensile strength and so can be used for dragging and lifting, but are too flexible to provide compressive strength. Rope may be constructed of any long, stringy, fibrous material, but generally is constructed of certain natural or synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibre ropes are
significantly stronger than their natural fibre counterparts, but also possess certain disadvantages, including slipperiness.
Common natural fibres for rope are manila hemp, hemp, linen, cotton, coir, jute, straw, and sisal. Synthetic fibres in use for rope-making include polypropylene, nylon, polyesters (e.g. PET, LCP, HDPE, Vectran), polyethylene (e.g. Dyneema and Spectra), Aramids (e.g. Twaron, Technora and Kevlar) and acrylics (e.g. Dralon). Some ropes are constructed of mixtures of several fibres or use co-polymer fibres. The modern sport of rock climbing makes extensive use of so-called “dynamic” rope, which is designed to stretch under load in an elastic manner in order to absorb the energy required to arrest a person in free fall without generating forces high enough to injure them. Such ropes normally use a kernmantle construction. “Static” ropes, used for example in caving, rappelling, and rescue applications, are designed for minimal stretch; they are not designed to arrest free falls. The UIAA, in concert with the CEN, sets climbing-rope standards and oversees testing. Any rope bearing a GUIANA or CE certification tag is suitable for climbing [9]. Despite the hundreds of thousands of falls climbers suffer every year, there are few recorded instances of a climbing rope breaking in a fall, the cases that do are often attributable to previous damage to, or contamination of, the rope. Climbing ropes, however, do cut easily when under load. Keeping them away from sharp rock edges is imperative. Rock climbing ropes come with either a designation for single, double or twin use. Single ropes range in thickness from roughly 9 mm to 11 mm. smaller ropes are lighter, but wear out faster. Double ropes are thinner ropes, usually 9mm and under, and are intended to be used as a pair. These ropes offer a greater margin or security against cutting, since it is unlikely that both ropes will be cut, but complicate belaying and leading. Double ropes are usually reserved for ice and mixed climbing, where there is need for two ropes to rappel or abseil. Twin ropes would be favorable in a situation where there was a high chance of a rope being cut. However new lighter-weight ropes with greater safety have virtually replaced this type of rope. The butterfly coil is a method of carrying a rope used by climbers where the rope remains attached to the climber and ready to be uncoiled at short notice. Other method of carrying a rope is the alpine coil. 3. Concluding Remarks:
Today the wars are fought on playground, rather than on the battlefield. Sports industry is an important revenue generator in world economy. Sports not only generate revenue for the hosting countries but also make better relationship with the other countries. Each time the sportsman gets a medallion, we ourselves feel that, I got it, and that feeling makes us proud of our country. China, India, Hong Kong, France, Italy, Germany and U.S are the major exporters of sports items and the major importers are US, Japan, Germany, France, the U.K, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS Italy, Canada and Hong Kong. Developing countries (India and China) have now become important production hubs for companies from developed countries.
Use of sporting gear is proportional to the per capita purchase power. Sports as such is treated in India as an area meant for the higher end of consumers. Besides, sports are treated as a recreational activity in India. With the rise in income, spending on recreational and leisure activities also will rise. With the growing income of Indians, particularly the urban population, sports are gradually finding a place in Indian context. It is predicted that expenditure on sports will grow with a CAGR of 8.9%, from US$ 1 billion in 2005 to US$ 6 billion in 2025 [22]. Indiahas a large textile industry with good downstream manufacturing facilities. With the growing modern retailing, when foreign sportech brands have entered the Indian market, it will be but natural that indigenous consumers will demand similar branded products from the home grown sportech industries. Since various centres have come up with sport equipment and accessories, sportech products belonging to technical textiles are bound to be developed sooner or later. Technology has been percolating down from the global sportech manufacturers to Indian manufacturers.
Over the years, India has developed as a sports item sourcing hub and the sports products industry has been growing at an average annual rate of around 10-12 % in past five years. In India sports goods and accessories are mainly manufactured at Meerut, Jammu & Kashmir, Delhi, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, Bangalore. The sports market in India is growing rapidly with the continued growth of GDP, higher disposable income, urbanization, young and educated population, awareness and exposure to international markets, the presence of foreign brands and corporate entry into sports, technological developments, and good performance of the country in some international events. India is hosting a series of international sporting events which is likely to boost the industry and increase sports awareness. Sportech segment of technical textiles is estimated to provide employment to 88,000 people of whom number of technical employees is estimated at 70,000 and number of non-technical employees is estimated at 18,000. Though all these above mentioned functional sportech products are restricted at lab scale stage, it is very essential to give more attention for commercialization of these product and technical knowhow of manufacturing technologies in which huge support from industries as well as Govt. is required. It is thus expected that in future, many of the functional sportech products would be emergence in Indian technical textile industry.
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Prevention of injury and minimizing the severity of injury through thedevelopment and use of textiles clothing and equipment in the high risk games requires greatercollaboration among those in health fields dealing with the injured, standardsdevelopers and organizations, designers and manufacturers of such clothingand equipment, and the sporting bodies themselves. Acknowledgement: The authorsare thankful to the Director & Management team of Wool Research Association, Thane, Maharashtra, India (Linked to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) for their guidance, inputs &continuous support. References: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.
A. R. Horrocks and S. C. Anand, Handbook of Technical Textiles, The Textile Institute, Woodhead publishing Ltd., Cambridge, England Source: Technology mission on technical textiles compendium on centres of excellence, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, 2011 Source: http://technotex.gov.in Source: M. K. Talukdar, Materials for Adventure Sports, National conference on ‘Sportech’ Organized by WRA, New Delhi, 2012 Source: A. Sengupta, M. Basuk& J. Behera, Report on Sports Textiles (www.wraindia.com) Baseline survey of the technical textile industry in India, ICRA Management Consulting Services Limited, March 2014 Shishoo R., Textiles in Sport, Edited by, Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2005 Source: Standard Specification for Boxing Gloves: IS 3874 – 1987 Reaffirmed 2002 Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki Source: http://www.olympic.org/fencing-equipment-andhistory?tab=history Source: Information report of International Judo fédération (IJF) Approved JudogiGuidance for IJF approved judo-gi. Source:http://www.intjudo.eu/Official_Suppliers_List Source: http://www.tfiindia.com/index.aspx Source:http://www.taekwondofederationofindia.com/ tfi321/index.php#!/pageEquipment Source: http://www.worldtaekwondofederation.net/whatis-taekwondo Source: http://www.iwf.net/ Source: http://www.britishweightlifting.org/governance/ weightlifting Source: http://harbingerfitness.com/blog/what-you-needto-know-about-weightlifting-belts/ Source:http://breakingmuscle.com/olympic-weightlifting/ weightlifting-belts-should-you-use-one-pro-and-con Source: Technology mission on technical textiles compendium on centers of excellence, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, 2011 Source: www.technicaltextile.net M.K. Bardhan, Sports activity – a global phenomenon to establish supremacy over other nations and role of sportech, Wooltech, 2 (2), 2013
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POST SHOW REPORT
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TEXFAIR 2015 & FARM TO FINISH EXPO 2015 The show was organised on 9th to 12th Jan 2015 at codassia center, Coimbathore by SIMA. The expo was well received by the industry people. the fair attracted:• Total number of stalls : 300 • Total number of exhibitors : 240 • Overseas exhibitors : 5 (China, Germany, Switzerland, Japan, Italy) • Domestic exhibitors hailed from : 9 States Percentage of exhibitors • Spinning machinery : 15% • Spinning accessories & spares : 55% • Weaving machinery : 5% • Weaving accessories & spares : 5% • Others : 20% (Testing equipments, Humidification ) plants, Material handling, compressors ) Software, service providers, ) Utilities, motors, etc
Coinciding the event, the Association also organized international seminars on “Modern development in Shuttleless Looms and Feasibility”, “Mitigating Harmonics”, “Innovation in Man-made Fibre Textiles”, “Energy conservation in Textile Mills – Perform Achieve and Trade - PAT”, “Scopes & avenues to utilize Solar Energy in Textile Industry”, “Achieving Manufacturing Excellence in Spinning Mills” during 10th and 11th January 2015 in a separate hall which attracted around 2000 delegates.
The Association has planned to organize the next fair during August / November 2017 (considering ITMA and ITME events being organized in 2015 and 2016). As the infrastructure facilities have improved significantly in Coimbatore and likely to further improve in the next two years (flight connectivity, hotels, road, rail connectivity, etc), we have a plan to hold textile machinery show on a large scale on par with any other international textile machinery fair. As the expo is being organized by the user industry and also South India accounts for more than 40% of the textile business and 50% of the spinning capacity, all the exhibitors would have very high return on the investments made in Texfair. However, we would continue to organize the fair in a cost effective manner and make it very attractive. This is the only fair being visited by all the technicians, shop floor, middle management and top management of each and every mill located in South india (around 2500 textile mills, seven lakh power units, 70% of the knitted fabric manufacturers, 30% of the processing fabrics manufacturers, 30% of the handloom weavers and all the stakeholders across the value chain). The latest technology machines, spares, equipments, etc., displayed gave a golden opportunity for all the technocrats across the organization structure in any textile mill to update their technical knowledge and enhance their competitiveness. 34
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The expo greatly benefited the textile industry located in this region to a large extent.
www.textilevaluechain.com POST SHOW REPORT
GTTES - 2015, A NEW CATALYST FOR TEXTILE ENGINEERING INDUSTRY Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show-2015 by India ITME Society created a landmark event for Textile Engineering Industry in India & overseas. The event which focused on Post spinning Sectors attracted exhibitors from 12 Countries & visitors from 21 Countries with visitor flow continuing late into evening on 3rd day even after closing time of the exhibition. The event was opened by Mr. Narendra L Shah, Past Chairman & Hon. Life member, Mr. G.T. Dembla, Past Chairman & Hon. Life Member, Mr. Bachkaniwala, Past Chairman & Hon. Life Member of India ITME Society.
Lighting of lamp – 20th January 2015 – Opening of GTTES-2015
Many first time products were displayed & new technology launched at GTTES-2015. A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited showcased the latest electronic terry rapier weaving machine (model GA738-I equipped with electronic dobby). This machine has excellent features needed for the production of terry fabric with high quality and provides excellent “VALUE FOR MONEY”. With 282 India and foreign exhibitors, GTTES expo covered an area of 11,500 sq. metres earning the distinction of being the largest textile technology event in India after India ITME Expo series. This event was visited by high level government delegation, delegates from Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Korea and from textile dept., Heavy Industry, Govt. of India and industrial delegation from India and overseas creating wide spread excitement and anticipation amongst exhibitors and industry members.
Mr. Sunil Porwal, Additional Chief Secretary (Textile) Govt. of Maharashtra, visited GTTES & interacted with exhibitors. Mr. Porwal said, “I am happy to see that GTTES 2015 visitors representing all segments of the manufacturing chain from India & China & many other have converged here creating new opportunities for the State & Country”. Mr. Vishvajit Sahay, Joint Secretary, Department of Heavy Industry, Govt. of India, visited the show and took keen interest in the exhibits from across India and globe.
Ambassadors and Consul General from 17 Countries visited the Exhibition highlighting importance of India in Textile sector & the keen interest GTTES generated internationally. Day 2 of the event presented the “opportunities in Ethi-
opia” & held interactive session on the topic with Mr. Sileshi Lemma, Director General, Textile Industry Development Institute, Govt. of Ethiopia. These efforts generated business for exhibitors & business visitors from African countries placed orders for multiple machinery. GTTES 2015 welcomed Hon. Minister Sri Ramdas Kadam, Cabinet Minister of Environment. Mr. Kadam personally visited each exhibitor and appreciated the display of each machinery & technology. He also encouraged and assured to boost the textile sector and its various requirements wherever applicable.
L to R : Mr. Vaidya, Ms Seema Srivastava, Hon. Minister Mr. Ramdas Kadam, Mr. Sanjiv Lathia, Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala & Mr. Shekhar Shirdhankar )
Many exhibitors expressed satisfaction at the quality of exhibition, event management & level of business visitors. Mr. Vallabh Thumar, Chairman & MD of Alidhra Weavetech Group observed that “The objective of this special series event is not only to showcase technology and machinery but also to address the needs of quality, variety, allied services and access to both regional markets and clientele, especially for small & medium enterprises.”
Mr. G V Aras, Director, Textile Engineering Group quoted, “GTTES 2015 was a wise move by the organizers for focusing more on weaving & processing machines which automatically targets & boost the small & medium scale textile manufacturers in India. A.T.E. has gained several unexpected business proposals from Tier II & Tier III cities manufacturers and we are happy to be here at the right time and right place.”
Mr. Fritz Legler, VP - Marketing / Sales & Services, Staubli also expressed his views that,“ though the economic slowdown has affected India’s textile industry, we are surprised to see very encouraging footfalls at GTTES & the participation of Chinese exhibitors”. Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITME Society shared that the 1stedition of GTTES exhibition has grown in stature and prestige beyond expectation with 282 Exhibitors, 21 Countries 19,000 visitors’ footfall, 23 Media partners, 5 educations institutions and 15 supporting organizations. Heavy Industry Dept. & Textile Dept., Govt. of Maharashtra supported the event & Govt. of India actively participated with officials interacting with Industry members. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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INDUSTRY NEWS
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CONGRATULATIONS Shri Haresh B. Parekh, Hon. Gen. Secretary, The Textile Association (India) was conferred Service Gold Medal in recognition of his contribution and services to the textile industry and Shri A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit was awarded a Service Memento for his dedicated services in the activities of TAI, Mumbai Unit. The Felicitation was held during 12th International & 70th All India Textile Conference held
Shri Haresh B. Parekh, Hon. Gen. Secretary, The Textile Association (India) receiving Service Gold Medal by the hands of Chief Guest, Hon. Shri Nitin Gadkari, Minister, Transport & Shipping, Govt. of India.
Shri A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit receiving Service Memento by the hands of Chief Guest, Hon. Shri Nitin Gadkari, Minister, Transport & Shipping, Govt. of India.
GUJNON SIGNS MOU WITH TAIWAN TEXTILE FEDERATION
Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) and Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens signed MoU for the mutual interest and intention to expand economic and trading relations. With this MoU, the Parties pursue the goal of strengthening cooperation in improving bilateral trade and investment conditions as well as promoting industrial cooperation between Taiwan and India.This MoU signed on 11th January, 2015 and were signed by Mr. Chan Cheng Tien, Chairman of TTF and Mr. Hemil Patel, Secretary GUJNON. This MoU includes various points which will be perused both by TTF and GUJNON. Here are the details about MoU
TTF and GUJNON endeavor to apply measures which serve to effectively promote bilateral trade and industrial cooperation between Taiwan and Indian Nonwoven Industries. This concerns direct investments, joint ventures and marketing partnerships as well as all other forms of bilateral cooperation. The Parties avow to the principles of market economy as well as of free and fair trade and will, against this background, conduct an exchange of ideas on the current and future priorities and developments in the nonwoven industry. In this respect, both Parties shall analyze in how far joint projects can serve as a suitable instrument to foster the sound development of the industries on both sides. 38
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Both organizations recognize the increasing importance of Intellectual Property Rights (“IPRs”) in the knowledge-based economy and will collaborate closely on a private-sector basis in protecting IPRs, by actively cooperating to promote the exchange of information on policies and activities relating to IPRs in their individual country/region and by striving to prevent infringement on IPRs in the domestic and international trade practices. Further more place at each other’s disposal information concerning investment condition, relevant valid legal regulations, current trading and market access conditions, as well as to exchange regular statistics and newsletters bilaterally. The Parties grant, within the scope of their means, assistance to Taiwan and India enterprise when searching for business partners.
Both GUJNON and TTF agree to co-operate in promoting and publicizing their events including, but not restricted to, Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show organized by TTF and Nonwoven Tech Asia organized by Gujnon, in the countries of each other. However any idea or opinion on the MoU should be discussed and agreed upon by both Parties in advance in writing. This Memorandum of Understanding signalizes the readiness of the Parties to co-operate and does not hold legal obligations.
www.textilevaluechain.com MANUFACTURING FOCUS
THE INERTIA OF MANUFACTURING “Manufacturing Managers should take Structural decisions which escalate the manufacturing inertia of the company” The DNA of Indian Manufacturing has evolved since its inception. It grows every single day to be the leaders in world manufacturing. Our Mr. Harish Chatterjee, system is deep rooted with knowlVP- Manufacturing edge, technology and above all the Raymond Ltd. emotional attachment with our staff and customers. This has been driving the Indian manufacturing ecosystem since ages.
The diverse products, dominant adaption to market changes and its perspective towards growth shapes the corporate and manufacturing policies of the company. A conventional factory undergoes too many production activities in a single day which are either contradicting or complementing each other. Eventually, the target is to keep the plant as competitive as possible. The manufacturing inertia escalates by implementing focused and organized manufacturing methodologies. A Conventional factory should structure the growth by building a “Manufacturing Mission” in alignment with theirsyndicates. Every plant has to develop a Key Manufacturing task which is derived from the principle corporate strategy. The internal manufacturing policies of the plant are designed around their key task itself. There have been sea changes in the manufacturing principles and the manufacturing arm of every company across the nation has been garnering attention by the higher authorities. The plant managers try to be good at everything but focus on the wrong thing. Probably due to less time or pressure from higher authorities.
In the standardized process of manufacturing, developed by the company, you come across many obstacles where the managers are subjected to pressures from the Sales Department and post satisfying them the finance department raises the bar and urges to reduce the costs. All these add to longer lead times, higher costs and finally lack of a structured focus within the factory. To build focus and organize its manufacturing activities, managers have to braze its manufacturing function into anaggressive weapon embodying the corporate attitudes. Structural decisions have to be taken infrequently to make the manufacturing policies and people in congruence with the plant and equipment.
Manufacturing units should focus on their particular tasks by managing its own work-force, production, equipment wherein the volumes and quality levels are not mixed. Development and handling all the above processes constitute to individual plant’s manufacturing task. Similarly,Raymond developed a central manufacturing staff where the corporate plays an active role throughout. We made all the plants as cost centers and the control is exercised centrally. We maintain the economies of scale as the purchasing is not fragmented and has developed moreover a bureaucratic approach. A focused approach and growth are always on opposite tracks.It’s important to design the manufacturing functions which gives a positive impact on the growth of the company. The need of the hour for manufacturing is to build a consolidated and organized manufacturing company with a structured connection to the corporate success. “Leading companies celebrate their manufacturing and corporate success as an Organizational achievement. Because, we know they seldom come alone.”
AUTOMOTIVE NONWOVEN FILTER MEDIA DELIVER 2.6M TONNES OF CO2 SAVINGS PER YEAR IN THE EU ALONE
EDANA, the leading global association serving the nonwovens and related industries today launched the newest infographic, delivered as part of its study into durable nonwoven applications.
With 13 million new cars registered in the European Union each year, nonwoven filters enable savings of 2.6 million tonnes of CO2 equivalents per year. This saving equals the reduction of 800,000 passenger cars on the road, or driving 12 billion kilometres in a medium-sized passenger car.
Nonwoven filter media provide a huge benefit for vehicles, thanks to their ability to deliver smaller, lighter and more efficient filtration of cabin air, fuel, motor oil and engine air. In addition, nonwoven filter media perform more effectively for a
longer time, making every kilometre you drive more efficient.
“Without high performance nonwovens, many recent innovations to make cars cleaner and more efficient would not have been possible.” Said Pierre Wiertz, General Manager of EDANA. “Thanks to nonwovens, today’s efficient motor technology means more fuel saved and less pollution, which in turn means cleaner air and better health for all people.” By using nonwoven filter media, each vehicle can deliver environmental benefits that are 6 times higher than the impact required to both produce and dispose of the products, making them an essential part of a modern, efficient and responsible automotive industry. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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HOME TEXTILES FOCUS
HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY OF INDIA: A CLUSTER BASED APPROACH Mrs. Parvin Batra Lead Auditor from IRCA, London
T
he Home Textiles Industry is an important sector in The Textile Industry of India providing employment to around 15 million people, which is one of the largest segments of the Indian economy accounting for over one fifth of the country’s industrial production. It produces one of the largest, most fascinating varieties of yarn, fabric, home textiles, home furnishings and other textile products in the world.
The Home Textile Industry is located across the country in various clusters having historic significance. It is centred in various clusters like Mumbai, Delhi, Panipat, Karur, Cannanore, Mirzapura-Bhadoi and Jaipur. Each cluster has its special cultural impact on the type of products that are made. These clusters have their own specialisation in different product ranges with different characteristics of infrastructure, size of units and the product range skills of labour. For example Panipat is famous for Bed sheets and handloom made blankets which were earlier supplied to army barracks. Now it also supplies the same to NGOs and International organisations like UN. Panipat is primarily a floor coverings cluster with a wide range of production of Bathmats and carpets both handmade and loom made. Panipat also has a wide range production of bed linen, curtains, upholstery and hand knitted pouf for both domestic and international markets. It has a total production of Rs. 11000 Crs. for domestic market and Rs. 3000 Crs. for exports. The data needs to be further authenticated since there are many unregistered units which do not want to fall into complicated inspector raj net and thus the data is distorted for facts. Similarly Mirzapur-Bhadoi area near Varanasi is also a Floor coverings cluster with a qualitative and quantitative production of handloom made durries, rugs and hand tufted carpets in different fibres like wool and polyester called shaggy rugs in price economy range. Delhi –Gurgaon-Faridabad-Noida region being a garment dominated belt primarily produces bed linen and other stitching based products because of skilled and economical tailored labour being abundantly available. At Karur in Tamilnadu the production is of the Powerloom based products like curtains, kitchen and bath linen due to predominance of integrated Powerloom and stitching based labour available for mass production with adequate skills. Jaipur specialises in printed fabric skills and as such the production is of tie and die and other block printed fabrics for different products. Mumbai cluster with its organised players like Bombay Dyeing and Welspun groups dominates into Towels and Bed sheets for both domestic and international markets.
GOI Support: Government of India has promoted the art and culture of many such clusters through the nodal agencies like Deptt. of Handlooms and Handicrafts through specialised Export Promotion Councils for the same. Government assists
the cluster with various technological and infrastructural incentives to tap the competitive edge of each of them. The Cluster development schemes of Ministry of MSME and Skills Development Schemes run by various Ministries are leading examples. At the same time, cluster development is one of the government’s premier policy initiatives for the development of textile and made up production. There has been a huge improvement in the infrastructure related to textile machinery, transport and power which are further augmenting production. Government of India along with state governments is actively supporting the private initiatives. It had allocated billions of rupees in infrastructure development through schemes like TUFS, and SITP, worker skill development trainings etc. New models of cooperation on the basis of Public- Private Partnership (PPP) are being explored. Government supportive devices through various fiscal and monetary incentives to industry like subsidised yarn, control of different varieties of cotton and other natural fibres.
As a matter of fact there is no organised data or consolidated information available about home textiles industry in India. Even the Ministry of Textiles does not seem to recognise it as a separate sector like carpet industry although it is growing at a fast rate in both domestic and international markets. The carpet industry is well organised and there is a separate Carpets Export Promotion Council, which regularly collects information and provides support to its members, yet there is no such body for Home Textiles. As such it is of paramount importance that the GOI takes special interest in this regard and home Textiles is given a special importance for both domestic and international markets. The Home Textiles market stretches across various export promotion councils associated with cotton and other natural fibres, and also with polyester and other synthetic fibres. There is a need to consolidate all this info under one head by taking all the items under HS Classification of products. Industry Growth: The Home Textile Industry has grown in an exponential manner in both domestic and export markets. The growth potential of the industry is still bright and optimistic. The industry which was essentially Domestic market has also become intensively export oriented. Export market has also seen great competition from the Indian players, especially after the end of quota. Indian players are challenging the bigger international brands. Bed linens, curtains and bath linen like terry towel cover the largest share of the home textile in the domestic market. In the Home Textile market cotton sheets, cushion cover, pillow covers and floor covering are the key products in which India is among the world leaders. In the bath Linen, India is among the major producers of terry towels in the world. The home textiles market is dominated by bed and bath linen, which have more than two-third of the market share in value terms. Bed linen alone has a market of about Rs 90,000 million according to the estimates. Included in the total market size are textile made-ups like wall hanging and other TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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Home Textiles FOCUS
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HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY OF INDIA: A CLUSTER BASED APPROACH decorative home furnishing articles. With home advantage of cheap labour and government support to exports, Indian products are very competitive in both price and quality. The market for home textiles, both domestic and export, has registered a steady growth since the post quota regime of international textile trade. Indian companies have made relentless efforts to benefit from the opportunity in the international market ever since many European companies have closed their businesses. Inter-play of forces from the supply and demand side; have pushed forward the domestic demand substantially in recent years. Increasing Demand:
Increasing demand for housing for high middle income and high income strata .Burgeoning demand of the domestic market can be attributed to Increasing affluence of a large number of households. Inculcating sense of artistry, that has developed among Indian households for possessing valueadded home textile products and there is a sustained and increasing demand for various consumer products by this segment of population. India has among the highest proportion of youth population in the world. Indian demographic figures suggest that about 867 million people are aged below 45 years and the overall median age is 24 years. Also, the average age of Indian home owner has fallen from 40 years to 27 years in last decade, indicating an enormous demand for housing. There is a growth of retail culture in the country. India is emerging as one of the largest consumer markets. There is a change in the purchasing habits of people in the recent years. Increasing working female-population have not only increased the income of households, but also changed the outlook of women towards their home and its interiors. Women have more say in the home decoration and furnishing. In the home textile segment, the share of total organized retail is about 7% of total retail of Rs 138 billion.
Hospitality Sector is also one of the major sectors which have a huge demand for soft furnishing. As estimated, the overall average growth rate of domestic urban market is about 15% - for bath linen (15%), for kitchen linen (10%), curtains (12%), upholstery (15%) and for other remaining products it is about 10%. It should be noted that, above estimations is only for urban India, which is considered the relevant market for the foreign brands. The urban population is about one-third of the total population. According to Central Statistical Organization, Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation, India, The retail market in India was about Rs 13,500 billion in 2009 , and will cross Rs 28,350 billion in 2015. The product market in Home Textiles in India has un-evenly developed. Of the furnishing segment, it is the bed and bath segment that dominates across the product range constituting about two thirds of the segment and so very competitive. The Indian industry is still greatly influenced by the traditional motifs, with the materials of satin mix, tapestry for drapes and even cotton mixes with synthetics for the traditional look. The handloom products and the hand-work are very sought after. 42
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Industry Structure: Market segmentation can be branded vis-a-vis unbranded products. The branded home textile products are manufactured mostly in the organized sector and sold through home furnishing retail outlets. The unbranded ones are made solely by the unorganized sector and sold through small neighbourhood stores. The unorganized industry, which manufactures un-branded products, caters to the lowest strata of consumers which have low price elasticity. This segment is constituted by the maximum number of manufacturers which are spread all over the country. The manufacturers operating in these segments are beset with problems of smaller market, limited capacities, inadequate logistics and strength and are often constrained by paucity of funds. Essentially the manufacturers are regional players. This market is largely, volume driven. The present market size in terms of volume largely tilts towards the unorganized sector. The medium range of products, though primarily volume driven, caters to diverse section of Indian consumers across all regions, Its quality is by and large acceptable to all sections. Majority of manufacturers, large and medium, have products on offer for these categories of consumers. As home textiles are guided by their attractive designs and patterns, companies are devising novelty and uniqueness in their products. They are spending on the research and design and have modern design studios. Many large scale players who were essentially in the export segment have started venturing in to domestic market. This has been a significant market development and has contributed to upgrading the quality of the products as also broadening the product-range. The market share of the organized sector which was much lower in the 90’s has significantly escalated specially in the past 25 years. The organized sector at present, according to a cross-section of industry experts, has increased to about 30% of the total home textile production in India by value. The organized sector, comprising of a few large and medium scale players, has evolved as a separate entity in recent years. The following players from among the existing ones may be reckoned as leading ones in terms of brand equity, market reach and turnover. Bombay Dyeing Ltd; Alok Industries Ltd; Abhishek Industries Ltd; Orient Craft; Welspun Ltd; Kurlon Ltd; S Kumars Nationwide Limited; Gujarat Fertilizers & Chemicals Ltd; SPC Industries Ltd; Shital Fibres Ltd. Large Indian players and the foreign companies operate in the premium and super-premium product categories. Exclusivity in product features such as selection of high quality raw materials, embellishments, design developments and above all branding of products for years make the products very special. The elite categories of consumers pay for the products on demand. Some Indian players produce both medium and premium segment products. Some of the manufacturers which have started their own retail outlets have two different brand names for the premium and medium segment of products. (Ex: Welspun’s Welhome and Spaces, Spaces being the premium home products store targeting the upper segment of customers. Leading large scale players who were playing at full capacity have expanded their production capacity. Earlier major concentration of leading players was fo-
www.textilevaluechain.com Home Textiles FOCUS
HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY OF INDIA: A CLUSTER BASED APPROACH cused on products like bed linen, towels. Besides, the domestic demand for carpets, blankets, upholstery, curtains and other furnishings is simultaneously rising. Majority of leading manufacturers who were have ventured in to domestic segment, are expanding production capacities. Many new projects on home textile products based on furnishing fabrics in jacquards and classics have come up in recent years. Market Potential:
In terms of the market size, the rural India can be assumed to consume about equal quantity of the home textiles, but in the value terms is will be not more than half of the urban India. Indian home textile products have come of age with high quality of fabrics used comprising of furnishing fabrics and madeups of Jacquard and Dobby and handloom weaves of various types of fibre like cotton, polyester, rayon blends, chenille, flax, silk, jute, linen and other blends. It offers further value addition in terms of digital and hand painted fabrics and embroidered fabrics. The products are wide ranging. These are well known for diversity, weave, colour and texture. The Home Textiles manufacturers and exporters offer a spectacular range of bedspreads, furnishing fabrics, curtains, rugs, durries, carpets, placemats, cushion covers, table covers, linen, kitchen accessories, made-ups, bed spreads, bath linen, and other home furnishings accessories to India and the world creating an awe inspiring feelings among customers from diverse incomes and backgrounds. The home textile furnishings market can be segmented into super premium, premium, medium, economy and low-end segments based on the target customers and their purchasing power. Generally, the soft, light, handmade silk products are costlier than the machine made products. Cotton products again are costlier than the poly-cotton or synthetic fibre products. Increasing affluence of the upper middle and high income strata. There has been a trend of consolidating the market positioning by the various players. Brand promotion and development; acquisition of foreign brands; vertical integration of production chain are the few ways by which players are building up their position in market. Exports have been a traditional market for the players in the branded home textile market but there has been a surge in the domestic demand for the quality products. Thus a surge in number of medium players. Competition – Indian Home Textile Industry
Characteristics
The competition in the home furnishing market is characterized by: • Branding – Key players are developing and promoting their brands to make a distinct mark in the market. Bombay dyeing is one of the companies whose brand value seems to carry greatest recognition as far as bed linen, and blankets are concerned.
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Rapidly Evolving domestic market has given new impetus to the race of acquiring share in the home turf. The expansion of retail segments in general, and increasing purchasing powers of people, especially in urban India has unleashed a mammoth market for home furnishing. Almost all the companies have targeted this segment in the terms of purchasing power. Vertical Integration: Most large manufacturers in India are vertically integrated companies and those which are not are trying their best to fill the gaps.
Export market has also seen great competition from the Indian players, especially after the end of quota. Indian players are challenging the bigger international brands. With home advantage of cheap labor and government support to exports, Indian products are very competitive in both price and quality. Competition among Leading Players
With intense competition heating up in the niche segments, leading players are busy in brand building exercise. The market leader Bombay Dyeing in a bid to consolidate its premier position is working on the strength of innovation, styling and pricing. The brand equity of Welspun, Portico, Alok, Abhishek are also established. Other players like SKNL, are also slowly building their brands in both economy and premiere segments. Kurl-On is the new entrant in the home furnishing business, which will leverage on its already famous brand of mattresses in India. Some of the international majors such as Portico, Rosebys, Benetton, Peacock Alley, are posing challenge for the domestic players in the premiere segment of home furnishing. The design innovations and being updated about the latest trends are most important key factors for the leading players. The super premium segment in India is still very small. Here too, few Indian designer home furnishing boutiques like Muslin, Zeba, Ravissant etc are present but most of them have foreign products.
Leading home textile manufacturers like Welspun, Alok Industries, and Abhishek Industries are integrating their businesses vertically and have strong competencies in spinning, weaving and finishing. Lateral consolidation of players through organic and inorganic growth domestically and internationally. They have started acquiring the global home furnishing brands abroad in order to consolidate their global positioning. In order to tap foreign market, wholly owned foreign subsidiaries are also started by some players. The authors are promoters of Global Competence, a Management Consultancy firm specialised in Home Textiles Industry, working for Cluster and Skills Development in Panipat, Ludhiana clusters for more than 15 years for organisational development for export promotion. Prof. V K Batra is Certified Exports Consultant for SMEs under Cluster Development Program of UNIDO TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
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MARKET REPORT www.textilevaluechain.com COTTON REPORT INDIA Arrivals: • Daily a total of 0.2 million bales (of 170 kg) arrived in India. • Estimated total arrivals as on 27th Jan 2015: 19.6 million Bales.
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STATEWISE ARRIVAL • Punjab/Haryana/Rajasthan: 3.48 • Gujarat: 4.6
Maharashtra: 3.75 Madhyapradesh: 0.1 Telangana-Andhra Pradesh: 5.3 Karnataka: 1.3 Tamilnadu: 0.25
Weather:
Scattered rains reported last week in cotton belt of Maharashtra, & parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh. Like last season, these rains may lead to an increase in furdal (low type cotton) in 2015. Domestic Market Summary:
While there is steady arrival of about 0.2 million bales of cotton on a daily basis, spinners are not actively buying cotton as yarn exports have declined considerably. Domestic market is also not very supportive, especially for cotton spinners. Quality of current arrivals is average. Prices have risen marginally in the domestic market after CCI was able to sell at higher than market price. Ginners continue to face disparity as the market continues to be under pressure. Many of the ginners have decided to close down the factories for the current period.
It is 10 months since China has announced its new import policy, but the cotton textile industry is still reeling under the after-effects. Considering the low domestic cotton prices and exemption in registration process for exporting cotton and yarn, India Cotton prices may sustain at current levels or take positive trend in coming months, according to a monthly report by Angel Broking. Cotton Corporation of India (CCI)
During telephonic discussion, CCI’s Chairman and Managing Director Mr. B.K. Mishra has informed that the procurement of cotton at MSP has crossed 6 million bales of 170 kg each, during the ongoing season October 2014-September 2015. Starting from 27th Jan, CCI has begun its sales operations via the e- auction process in Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Gujarat, Maharashtra and other states. On the first few days of initial offer, about 3000 bales were sold in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana at a sale price higher than the market rate. Mr. Mishra said that the decision of liquidation of cotton is 44
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
being worked out carefully so as to avoid any crash in domestic prices that may land up farmers in more trouble. This year, looking at the bearish market scenario, the CCI may have to procure around 10 million bales, beating its previous highest purchase record of 8.9 million bales in cotton season 2008-09. Charity must begin at home
The South Indian Mills Association (SIMA) has urged the CCI to begin procurement of cotton at MSP in Tamil Nadu. The request is a bit surprising as Tamil Nadu has the highest concentration of spinning mills with an annual consumption of about 10 million bales. On the other side, it is amongst the lowest cotton producing states with an annual production of 0.5-0.6 million bales. If the South India spinning industry cannot assure the purchase of such small quantum of local cotton at MSP, on whose trust are the farmers of India growing 40 million bales? This is the time when the spinning industry must stand beside the farmers and ginners of India and priorities the purchase of domestic cotton. Yarn: Cotton yarn manufacturers, who made good money due to a rally in domestic and international markets last year, are facing rough weather due to sluggish demand and low prices. An anticipated correction of sorts seems to have occurred in cotton prices globally which has also pushed down yarn prices. With a drop in Chinese demand for cotton and cotton yarn during this financial year, stocks available in the domestic market have increased. A drop in cotton and yarn prices, has also affected the prices for fabric. Revival, according to leading textile mills, is round the corner because the demand from end-users did not plummet. Even if China imports less, others such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey and some European countries will restore demand and Indian yarn will find buyers. International Market:
Oil, other commodities and stocks prices are in a state of turmoil. Overall prospects remain grim for commodities markets and economic growth. Surplus cotton around the world, reported losses being incurred by domestic mills in yarn sales and tight money in the market have all added up to create a depressed condition in the cotton economy at large. A global slowdown could limit demand for cotton based products.
Pakistan: Revival of buying interest helped prices to stabilise in the cotton market as many mills started to build their stocks. The textile industry hopes that fall in prices of oil would help reduce power cost and may also reduce consumption pressure on gas which is in short supply to industry. Yarn prices were weak. Pakistan is projected to produce about 14.7 million bales (155 kgs) in the current season (August 2014 / July 2015). China: The National Bureau of Statistics, China has report-
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COTTON REPORT ed an output of 6.16 million tons for the current season, a drop of 2.2 % compared to last season, as the amount of land under cotton shrank by nearly 3 %. The bureau’s total production figures are lower than the latest USDA’s estimates of about 6.5 million tons, as well as estimates by the China Cotton Association, but are close to trader predictions. China’s output numbers are typically closely watched by global exporters as declines often boost appetite for overseas cotton, supporting global prices.
But imports are set to drop sharply next year after China said it would slash the number of import quotas it issues. A fall in output and subsequent fall in subsidy for farmers, especially in Xinjiang, China’s top cotton growing region, may result in a decline in cotton area in the next season.
Australia: Cotton Australia predicts 2 million bales will be produced from the 0.2 million hectares planted across Australia this year. Although cotton prices have been declining on a global basis, the Australian prices, the cash prices, have been increasing because the Australian dollar is falling. Every cent the Australian dollar falls adds 6 or 7 dollars to the cash price for domestic growers. U.S.: The 2014/15 U.S. cotton estimates include slightly larger production and ending stocks. Production is raised 0.16 million bales, as the crop is estimated higher in all regions except the Southeast. Domestic mill use and exports are unchanged, resulting in estimated ending stocks of 4.7 million bales. The forecast range for the marketing-year average price received by producers of 59.5 to 63.5 cents per pound is narrowed 0.5 cents on both ends, with the midpoint unchanged at 61.5 cents. Important Reports
USDA : According to a USDA December report, global cotton output in 2014-15 is forecast at 119 million bales, slightly below the previous season as a yield reduction more than offsets increased area. Considerable production declines in 201415 for China and Brazil counterbalanced the increase for the United States. The world cotton yield is forecast at 755 kg/ hectare, the lowest since 2009-10. For India, the production forecast of 31 million bales matches the 2013-14 record and includes an all-time high area of 12.75 million hectares. India’s mill use is forecast at 24 million bales, up about 3 %,
Production in China is forecast to decline from nearly 32.8 million bales in 2013-14 to 30 million bales in 2014-15, as cotton area is reduced to 4.4 million hectares, the lowest since 2000-01. Cotton mill use in China, estimated at 37 million bales in 2014-15, is projected to grow 7 % after several seasons of decline and as against a record 51 million bales in 2007-08. Recent policy announcements will support cotton consumption by bringing domestic prices in line with world pric-
es. In particular, lower prices will raise the incentive to spin cotton within China rather than import cotton yarn as in recent years. Yarn imports may decline by approximately 15 %.
Pakistan’s crop is forecast at 9.8 million bales in 2014-15, 3 % above last season and largely attributable to rising yields. The cotton crop in Brazil is forecast to decrease about 13 % to 7 million bales as the decline in world prices reduces area expectations.
Global cotton mill use in 2014/15 is forecast at 112.6 million bales, 3 % above the previous season. In addition to China and the US, cotton mill use in Vietnam is forecast to expand more than 6 %, reaching a record 3.4 million bales in 2014-15. In U.S. all upland cotton weekly export sales, a record export and net sales were noted for the current season. Net Upland sales were up 16 % from the previous week and 90 % from the prior 4-week average. Exports of 0.275 million RB were up 22 % from the previous week and 33 % from the prior 4-week average.
The primary destinations were China (54,600 RB), Turkey (43,300 RB), Vietnam (38,500 RB), Indonesia (36,200 RB), and Mexico (23,100 RB). ICAC:
Low cotton prices - A long term problem Despite expected growth in cotton consumption this season, a world production surplus of 1.7 million tons is still anticipated. This will bring 2014-15 world ending stocks to 21.3 million tons, up 9% from 2013/14 and up 147% from 2009/10 when stocks reached a 15-year low. The 25 years average world stock-to-use ratio was 47% before China began its reserve policy in 2011. However, the volume of ending stocks would represent 87% of the projected consumption in 201415, and is weighing heavily on prices this season. Even assuming reasonably lower production and higher consumption in the next few years, it will take several seasons for the significant volume of stocks to reach a more sustainable level, and low cotton prices are likely to persist while the market adjusts. By the end of the season, stocks held outside of China are forecast to rise by 20%, to nearly 9 million tons, the second largest volume (after 2004-05) in the last 30 years. Much of this increase will be held by producing countries and will likely cause world exports to fall 15% to 7.5 million tons. # China’s cotton production is projected down 7% to 6.4 million tons. Lower international and domestic prices are expected to bolster consumption in China by 6% to just under 8 million tons. # Brazil’s production is forecast to fall by 10% to 1.5 million tons. # Australia’s production is expected to reduce by 47% to 0.47 million tons. # India’s production is expected to remain stable at 6.8 TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
45
MARKET REPORT www.textilevaluechain.com COTTON REPORT million tons due to less favorable monsoon weather this season despite an expansion in the cotton area by 5% to 12.3 million hectares. The contraction in China’s demand for cotton yarn imports is expected to cause India’s cotton consumption growth to slow to 4% reaching 5.3 million tons. This is down from 5% in 2013-14 and 14% in 2012-13. # Production in the US is looking to rebound 23% to 3.5 million tons, partially offsetting declines in the other major producing countries.
crops in the market or not.
Some farmers’ groups continue to oppose such steps towards “furthering seed monopolies”. The solution, they feel, is the creation of a broad-based committee consisting of representatives from all States that will assess social impact as well as long-term environmental and health concerns. Technical Reports:
In response to the low prices, cotton consumption is forecast to increase to 24.4 million tons in 2014-15, compared to 23.5 million tons in 2013-14. Cotton Advisory Board (CAB):
The Cotton Advisory Board has pegged the country’s total cotton production at over 40 million bales (170 kg) in the 2014-15 crop year, as against 39.8 million bales in 2013-14. Cotton Association of India (CAI):
CAI’s latest cotton output estimate stood at 40.025 million bales (170 kg) for the season 2014-15. This estimate is lower in comparison with last year (40.725 million) as there was a fall in productivity in the central region. In order to tide over this situation, CAI has urged the government to support the entire cotton sector, including the ginning, trading and exporting sectors through banking channels and other means. Indian Cotton Federation (ICF)
1.
ICE COTTON
ICE Futures are trading weak on all time frames, however technical indicators does suggest a fair chance of short term bottom around 57 areas. In immediate short term Cotton can see some momentum only above 62.85 levels. Sideways action anticipated in 58-67 range in short term. Trendy momentum can pick only above 67 or below 57 areas. Key Supports 57.0556.72-55.55, Key Resistances 62.85-65.77-66.62. 2.
MCX COTTON
ICF has estimated cotton crop for 2014-15 season (October-September) at 40.6 million bales (170 kg), maintaining its earlier projection made in November 2014. Government Reports:
• The Government of India is concerned over the decline in raw cotton prices and has stepped up efforts to find out new markets for cotton exports to stabilise the situation. The prices have been declining because of a substantial fall in exports to China, India’s biggest market, which had changed its policy on cotton imports. Considering two consecutive years of record production, India needs to find ways to increase its cotton exports by focusing on buyers other than China. Recently a team led by Mr. Rajeev Kher (Commerce Secretary) visited Vietnam to explore opportunities for cotton and yarn exports. After China, Bangladesh and Pakistan, Vietnam is one of the leading importers of India’s cotton. China has huge investments in the spinning sector in Vietnam. • With a focus to allow those GM crops that address the problem of insecticides, weedicide and diseases in crops, the Maharashtra government has given ‘no objection certificate’ for field trial of 5 genetically modified (GM) crops – cotton, brinjal, maize, rice and chickpea. Since June 2011, it has been made mandatory for companies to obtain ‘NOC’ from the state governments where they want to conduct field tests. The Central Government will take a final call on whether to allow such 46
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
MCX Futures are trading weak on all time frames, sub 14000 levels noted in panic liquidation. 15550 areas now stiff resistances, buying suggested only in strength above this key hurdle. Oversold chart reading does suggest fair chance of retest of 15550 areas, key action expected here. Key Supports 13970-13500-13000, Key Resistances 15550-15920-16300. 3.
ACE COTTON
KEY SUPPORTS 29910 KEY RESISTANCES 314 00-31950-32670
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COTTON YARN UPDATE Mr. Sanjay K Jain
•
Managing Director, T T Ltd Deputy Chairman NITRA Vice President NITMA
Vice President FOHMA Vice President WBHA
Committee Member/Special Invitee – TEXPROCIL, CITI, SIMA, CITI-CDRA, IAAI & FICCI (Textiles)
C
otton yarn prices has been going through a difficult period for the last 1 year – prices have come down by 15% - 20% over the year. This is almost in line with cotton prices which have also fallen by a similar level.
In my opinion prices are at rock bottom level and my view for next month is stable to mildly bullish. The reasons for the same are: • Raw cotton has bottomed out in India, its currently even below MSP levels – however is expected to slowly come back to those levels. Probability of any further fall is remote • Crude also seems to have bottomed out after falling by over 50% and hence polyester fibre could also be expected to be stable
• • • • •
Chinese new year will be over by 3rd week of February, and all major holidays in other parts of the world are over – hence demand is expected to pick up Due to continual fall in prices of yarn and fabric, the customers have been maintaining minimal stock levels – very low pipeline stocks could trigger a spurt if consumer demand picks up Summer sales are expected to kick off leading to higher demand for yarn and fabric Suppliers are working on very tight margins, hence their push for better prices is very strong – at the slightest indication they will firm up prices Overall consumer demand due to low inflation is expected to lead to a better garment sales this year Currency is expected to be range bound – textiles being a global commodity, foreign exchange rates are very critical
A 10% plus/minus of demand or supply is enough to trigger a significant price change – more important than physical movement is human Perspetive of the Price Trend
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SHOW CALENDER February 2015 4-7
The Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Show
18-20
Place: Dhaka, Bangladesh, Info: www.bangla-expo.com/DTG
6-9
13-15
20
21
24-26
26
KNIT TECH 2015
Place : Tirupur / India, info: www.hitechtradefairs.com
Global Textile Congress
11th SDC International Conference Place : Mumbai/ India, info : sdc@sdc.org.in Vision Sustainabillty 2020 Place : New Delhi/ India, info :akhan@controlunion.com
5th international conference on Digital Textile Printing
Domotex Russia
Place : Moscow, Russia, info: www.domotex.com
Nonwovens for High-performance Applications, NHPA2015
Place : Cannes/ France, info : www.intnews.com/NHPA
12-13
12-13
International Conference on Fashion and Textiles
F & A show / HOMTEX 2015
Place : Bangalore / India, info : www.fnashow.in
Textile Expo 2015
Place : Surat/ India, info: www.textileexpo.in
HOMETEX TECH
Place : Panipat/ India, info: www.essentialmedia.biz
1st Annual cogress of smart material 2015
Place: Busan/Korea, info: www.bitcongress.com/wcsm2015
April 2015 9-11
9-11
Technotex
Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.technotexindia.in
Fiber & Yarn Show
Place : Mumbai/ Indi, info : tecoya@gmail.com
May 2015 22
International GOTS Conference
Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.global-standard.org
June 2015 4-6
4-6
Home Fashion India Week
Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.homefashionindiaweek.com
Place : Jodhpur/ India, info : www.nift.ac.in/jodhpur/icft
12-14
23-25
Filtech 2015
Place : Cologne/ Germany, info : www.filtech.de
March 2015
4-5
20-22
Place : Bangkok, Thailand, info: www.textileassociationindia.org
Venue : New Delhi/ India, info : www.inkjetforumindia.com
1-3
20-22
Infashion 2015 / India Fashion Forum
Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.indiainfashion.com
Non Woven Tech – Asia
Place : Ahmadabad/ India, info : www.nonwoventechasia.com
Fashion Connect
Place : Bangalore/ India, info: www.textilefairsindia.com
November 2015 10-11
Turkish Nonwovens Symposium
Place : Istanbul, info: www.edana.org
December 2016 3-8
INDIA ITME 2016
Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com
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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015
49
BRAND FOCUS OF CMAI JAN 2015 FAIR Stall No. 144-145 Founder & Director: Mr. Gautam N. Hiranandani
Brand : CUPCAKE Company: J. Govindram Pvt. Ltd. FASHION FOCUS
J. Govindram Pvt. Ltd. is a leading exporter of kids apparel. Mr. Gautam realized the vaccum in the Indian kidswear market in terms of Quality and jus fied pricing and finally launched the Kidswear brand in the name of CUPCAKE for girls. The brand has very strong and energe c team backed by extensive experience.The spring summer collec on presented there was fresh, crea ve. He is considering various pla orm for market his products, few are Par cipa on in CMAI show every year, Online portal, EBO. No large format stores, as their structure of work is not suitable for SME's.
Brand: ORIGINAL VARSITY LEAGUE Company: Bmrm Clothing Llp
Satll no.: 618 Founder: Mr. Rakesh Puttachari The founder Mr. Rakesh is a NIFT Bangalore graduate having a sound design experience working with leading export houses and interna onal brands. This is not a typical t-shirt brand but a very authen c and unique collec on for Indian Youth. The brand was able to portray the "The college campus life inspired look" in well balanced manner. From graphics to washes to handfeel all were superb making is purely interna onal. The launch collec on were European Holiday inspired which was well in sink with Interna onal Trend direc on.The brand par cipated this CMAI fair for the first me and looking forward to enter the leading LFS pan India.
BRAND FOCUS OF CMAI JAN 2015 FAIR
FASHION FOCUS
Stall no. :655 Founder of the Company : Mr Harshal Gala
Company name: H. G. FASHIONS About the Founder & Company: Mr Harshal is the crea ve head of this company. A er comple ng his design educa on from B. D. Somani,he gained suďŹƒcient industry experience by working with leading ethnic wear brands for many years. Finally in the year 2014, he launched his design studio with name H.G. Fashions. Currently he is designing the collec on for many leading ethnic wear stores and brands. The collec ons showcased deserved true apprecia on and reected his personal touch. He keeps adding new styles every 3 months.
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ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707 FEBRUARY - 2015 | Volume 3 | Issue 2 | Pages 52
4 Technical Textiles: Filtration Fabric Overview /Textiles in High Risk Sports 4 Home Textiles : A cluster based approach 4 Cotton Report / Yarn Updates 4 Rieter , Birla Cellulose, Garments SME's Brand Focus
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