Van phong tham tu tai ha noi by Thám Tử Bảo Tâm

THE MAN WHO HELPED SAVE CLIMBING

GEAR GUY EXTRA EDITION P. 64

AND ICE

THE CLIMBER’S MAGAZINE

SONNIE TROTTER'S

TRIPLE CROWN OF THE ROCKIES

ISSUE 245 OCTOBER 2017 ISSUE 248 FEBRUARY 2018

DISPLAY THROUGH OCT. DISPLAY THROUGH FEBRUARY $5.99 CAN $5.99 USUS • $6.95 $6.95 CAN

HOW TO KEEP YOUR ELBOWS HAPPY

THE MOST AMAZING ROUTE

SLATE TO SEASIDE A WALES OF A STORY

P O U R D O W N

L A Y E R U P

S P E E D U P P A C K I T

T E R R E X

F A S T P A C K

2 . 5

U P

L A Y E R

A D I D A S O U T D O O R . C O M

J A C K E T

It all adds up to nothing.

After 4 years of field testing, 830 hours of materials refinement, 3 different names, and at least 6,000 vertical feet climbed on a single testing trip, we managed to create a jacket that solves one of the most perplexing problems in insulation: How do you make something that combines the best qualities of down and synthetic to create the ideal insulation formula? It all started with PlumaFill, a fiber we discovered in 2007 that proved to be both highly compressible and warmer for its weight than any

synthetic insulation we’d ever tested. We combined this with a pattern that took years to perfect and a quilting construction that allows heat to move freely inside the liner. This is the formula for creating a jacket that redefines insulation.

The Micro Puf f ® Hoody Our lightest, most packable insulated jacket ever.

CONTENTS F E B R UARY 2 018 / I S S U E 24 8

F E AT U R E S

The Saver

Wales

A freedom fighter from way back, Armando Menocal helped shape the sport we enjoy today. Without him, you might be playing golf. BY JEF F JACKSON

With thousands of trad routes, winter climbs, sport lines and boulder problems on eight different rock types—all within a few hours drive—North Wales contains some of the most diverse and concentrated climbing on earth. BY H A R R IE T R IDL E Y

Wild Corsica

The island of Corsica is known for incredible beauty and climbing variety, from rugged mountain towers to boulderstrewn coasts, and for a hard multipitch route, Delicatessen (5.14), done 25 years ago but rarely repeated since. Two top climbers find out why. BY BEN RUECK

38 Three Big Fish

The author had dreamed of the Trilogy: three long, high-end routes in Europe. When life got in the way, he got creative, devising his own Trilogy in the Canadian Rockies. Whether he could do it in a season would come down to chance. BY SONNIE T RO T T ER

66 GEAR GUIDE SPRING 2018

D E P A R T M E NTS EDITOR’S NOTE

AMAZING ROUTE

SNAPSHOT

ACCIDENT PREVENTION

EVERYMAN’S EXPOSED

MY EPIC

FIELD TESTED

TRAINING

MEDICAL ADVICE

GEAR GUY

PARTING SHOT

COVER: Sonnie Trotter pulls through the 5.14 crux of Blue Jeans Direct, Mt. Yamnuska, Alberta, Canada, one of the three faces of his Rocky Mountain Trilogy. See feature page 38. PHOTO: Tim Banfield THIS PAGE: North Wales local Libby Peter sews up Seamstress (VS 4c/5.8) on Serengeti Slab in the Dinorwig Slate Quarry, North Wales. The first ascent was a solo by Stevie Haston in 1983. See feature on page 46. PHOTO: Mike Robertson

The Climber's Magazine

Rock and Ice (USPS 0001-762, ISSN 0885-5722) is published 8 times a year (January, February, April, May, July, August, October, and November) by Big Stone Publishing, 1101 Village Road, Suite UL-4B, Carbondale, CO 81623. Periodicals postage paid at Carbondale, CO, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: send address changes to Rock and Ice, 1101 Village Road, Suite UL-4B, Carbondale, CO 81623. Subscription rates are $29.95 per year, $44.95 for two years. Canada, add $15 per year for surface postage; all other countries add $20 per year for surface postage (US funds only). Canada Post CPM #7157697.

BY FR ANCIS SANZ ARO

EDITOR’S NOTE

Having Kids is Like Being Injured A friend once quoted Ben Moon as saying that having kids is like being injured. Parenthood and injury are indeed analogous—all it takes is a second ... and soul-crushing regret potentially awaits. Moreover, the consequences are direct: getting out of rhythm, losing strength, feeling like Chronos is playing a cruel joke. But does it have to be this way? I’m beginning to think No. For all of the #yolo images spewing across my Insta feed, seldom do they include bedraggled parents telling their kids to stop eating dirt below their perma-drawed project or the risks associated with “just a few more gos,” i.e., a pissed-off wife or husband or other when you get home at 8 p.m. totally spent, but had promised 5:30 with a pizza for the fam. Beyond the confines of a certain chossy limestone canyon on the Western slope, the guidebooks call it Rifle, where kids swarm like barbarian hordes on warm weekend afternoons, I saw a couple in Joe’s Valley a few weeks ago bouldering with a seven-month-old, in their Pack n’ Play, happy as a pig in mud, with daytime temps in the 50s. It was chilly. And they were climbing hard. A hundred parent points to them. The next day, I saw more kids. Parenting and pulling hard isn’t a story we read about often, despite some of the best climbers of a generation going forth and multiplying. The lack of such stories may be the “no one here gets out alive” mythology that other parents are keen to propagate—just give up, you know, grow up, those lines, like Artax calling it quits in the Swamps of Sadness. And people do give up. They do. But no, everywhere climber-parents are resisting! #MCWKGA—Make Climbing with Kids Great Again! Here we are: Chris Sharma, kid in tow, sending mid 5.15; Tommy Caldwell packaging little Fitz with him down to Patagonia, and sending; Jacinda Hunter, mother of four, holding a full-time job and sending 5.14b. Now there’s a sandbag. The list does go on. Not indefinitely, however. We rarely read the behind-the-scenes of parenting and pulling ... until now. Attempting to send the last climb on what he calls his Rocky Mountain Trilogy, Blue Jeans Direct, a 700-foot, eight-pitch, 5.14a, Sonnie Trotter writes, “With a newborn baby and a three-yearold toddler, there was no more time for messing around. I bought some time when my wife’s sisters visited for a week to help and spend time with their adorable niece and nephew. I had to act fast.” Yep, that’s life. Trotter’s story (“Three Big Fish,” p. 38) of getting after big, hard alpine walls with the caveat of “I’ll be home for dinner” is a lesson to us all. Enter Armando Menocal, an unwitting hero for climber parents. When you thread the anchors on a slabby 5.6 for your kid, or give your sport project a burn at a warm crag with your offspring scrambling about, thank Menocal, co-founder and early leader of the Access Fund. What is it you’re thanking him for? Bolts—and access to said cliff. Bolts almost were not, and in the 1980s Menocal, with the help of a select few, protected our right to put steel into the rock for convenience, protection and anchors. Menocal’s story, nuanced and ever-so important to the history of climbing, is told here in “The Saver,” p. 20.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 7

g20 plus crampon

TWO ADDITIONAL POINTS ADDED More security and versatility REMOVABLE FRONT POINT Better angle for gripping ice

FOR A DEALER NEAR YOU CALL 1-888.90.CLIMB Distributed in North America by Liberty Mountain Jackson Marvell on Stymingers Fink WI4, Hayden Peak, Uintas, UT Photo: Nathan Smith - pullphotography.com

AMAZING ROUTE

Rocky Road

P H O T O B Y J A N N O VA K

ANTONIN RHODES cobbles together Patatas Bravas (7b/5.12b), on the recently developed crag Es Pouding, on Ibiza, an island off the east coast of Spain. One of the Balearic Islands, an archipelago of some 50 rocks in the western Mediterranean that includes Mallorca three hours away by ferry, Ibiza is a popular party destination for Europeans who have also recently discovered other ways to entertain themselves.

OWNED AND OPERATED BY CLIMBERS Established 1984

AND ICE THE CLIMBER’S MAGAZINE EDITORIAL Publisher and Editor in Chief: Duane Raleigh draleigh@bigstonepub.com Editor: Francis Sanzaro fsanzaro@bigstonepub.com Executive Editor: Alison Osius aosius@bigstonepub.com Associate Editor: Michael Levy mlevy@bigstonepub.com Senior Fellow: Harriet Ridley hridley@bigstonepub.com Editor at Large: Jeff Jackson jjackson@bigstonepub.com Intern: Tobey Schmidt Senior Contributing Editors: Andy Anderson, Barry Blanchard, Whitney Boland, Tommy Caldwell, Geof Childs, Will Gadd, Neil Gresham, Seth Heller, John Long, Niall Grimes, Dr. Julian Saunders

CREATIVE Art Director: Randall Levensaler rlevensaler@bigstonepub.com Production Manager: Quent Williams qw@bigstonepub.com

ADVERTISING SALES Associate Publisher: Ben Yardley byardley@bigstonepub.com Advertising Manager: Matt Ginley mginley@bigstonepub.com Accounting: Andie Bauer accounting@bigstonepub.com

CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Casey Weaver cweaver@bigstonepub.com Subscriptions: risubscriptions@bigstonepub.com Retail Sales Coordinator: Tim Nooney retail@bigstonepub.com

CONTRIBUTORS Tim Banefield, John Bunny, Jordan Cannon, Callen Hearne, Jethro Kiernan, Ian Lange, Kris McCoey, Colette McInerney, Ben Moon, Tim Neill, Jan Novak, John Price, Joe Purtell, Jeff Rueppel, Mike Robertson, Ben Rueck, Adrienne Russell, Austin Siadak, Sonnie Trotter, Ray Wood, Cheang Qing Xin, Paul Zizka BIGSTONE PUBLISHING 1101 Village Road, Suite UL 4B, Carbondale, CO 81623

www.rockandice.com 970.704.1442 x118 risubscriptions@ bigstonepub.com NEWSSTAND SALES 970.704.1442 x115 retail@bigstonepub.com All rights reserved. Copyright 2018 Big Stone Publishing Ltd. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. POSTMASTER SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO Rock and Ice 1101 Village Road Suite UL 4B Carbondale, CO 81623 Rock and Ice is published eight times a year including a special annual issue of Ascent. Without a subscription, Ascent is $13.95 on newsstands. To order Ascent online, visit www.rockandice.com, or call 970.704.1442 x118. or email risubscriptions@bigstonepub.com. Rock and Ice subscription are $29.95 per year, $44.95 for two years. Canada, add $15 per year for surface postage; all other countries add $20 per year for surface postage (U.S. funds only). Canada Post CPM #7157697.

CLIMB ON.

Rock and Ice depends on articles and photographs from climbers like you. Unsolicited materials and queries are welcome. To submit an article or idea for consideration, contact Francis Sanzaro at fsanzaro@ bigstonepub.com. E-mail photos to photos@bigstonepub.com.

Ropes that stay dry perform better and last longer.

Rock and Ice is produced and printed in the United States.

Buy the new DryXP ropes at your local climb shop.

SUBSCRIPTIONS

WARNING! The activities described in Rock and Ice carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. DO NOT participate in these activities unless you are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to assume personal responsibility for all risks associated with these activities. Big Stone Publishing Ltd. MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF ANY KIND REGARDING THE CONTENTS OF THIS MAGAZINE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY WARRANTY REGARDING THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN. Big Stone Publishing Ltd. further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurred by any person engaging in these activities. Use the information contained in this magazine at your own risk, and do not depend on the information contained in this magazine for personal safety or for determining whether to attempt any climb, route or activity described herein.

“The Shining (Uncut) on Mt. Louis involved the longest single pitch 5.14 I have ever climbed in my life, and I needed every inch of my 80 metre Nano IX™ DryXP to reach the top. It’s impossible to imagine climbing this route with any other cord.” — Sonnie Trotter

BY JOE PURTELL

Q A

“GZ” checks out his ice tool after climbing Virtual Reality (WI 6) on the icefields Parkway, Alberta, Canada.

CHASING WINTER

Graham Zimmerman goes his own way

In 2004, Graham Zimmerman finished high school in Edmonds, Washington, and went off to college—in New Zealand. Eighteen years old, he was looking only for alpine ice. He spent his college years in both hemispheres, chasing winter. In a turnaround of the usual progression, as he puts it, “I got into mountaineering and ice and mixed climbing before rock climbing.” In New Zealand, Zimmerman met a British alpinist Mark Kendrick, who invited him to climb the 2,000-foot South Face of Mount Cook, the tallest peak in the country at 12,218 feet. Although hesitant, Graham was convinced, and in January 2005, in an arduous 20 hours, the two climbed the face via White Dream, with ice up to WI 5. “I remember it being so intense,” Zimmerman says. “There’s a giant serac right next to you. You’re not threatened by it, but you’re 2,000 feet up a face, climbing this steep waterfall ice.” They gained the upper ridge, with only 500 feet of easy climbing left. He says, “I remember saying something like, ‘I’m glad we did that, it was awesome. I need to go down, otherwise I am literally going to die.’ He sat me down, gave me some salami and water, made me rest for 10 minutes, and then I felt great and we went on to the summit.” The climb led the youth toward things he’d daydreamed about but never thought possible: “I realized that climbing harder stuff on bigger mountains was something I could do, and maybe even wanted to do.” Seven years later, Zimmerman would receive the 2011 New Zealand Alpinist of the Year award for his 4,600-foot route Vitalogy, a behemoth up the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Bradley in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska. Zimmerman, now 31 and based in Bend, Oregon, where he works in geophysics, has authored ascents in the Kyrgyz Pamirs, Patagonia, the Waddington Range of British Columbia, and the Karakoram. 10 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

Best Hits Nominated for 2014 Piolet d’Or for FA of the 4,700-foot East Face (V M7 WI4 A1) of Mt. Laurens, Alaska, with Mark Allen. FA 5,900-foot Southwest Ridge (VI M6) of K6 West (7,040m), Karakoram, Pakistan, with Scott Bennett, 2015. FA 4,600-foot Vitalogy (V WI5,M6+ 5.9 A1), SW Buttress of Mt. Bradley, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, with Mark Allen, 2010. FA 1,200-foot Bossanova (IV 5.11+ A2), Aguja Guillaumet, Argentine Patagonia, with Scott Bennett, 2013.

What was your first major new route? We [Zimmerman and Yewjin Tan, in 2008] went into a zone [in Kyrgyzstan] that hadn’t been visited much. It all came together. I look back on that trip now, and I had been reading a lot of Mark Twight at the time, and we didn’t take anything. [The North Buttress of Kyzyl-Muz] took us three days. I think we had two sleeping bags, five cams, a couple nuts, a single 60-meter rope, and a couple ice screws. I was super fired up at the time, but I look back on it and am so happy the weather didn’t come in, and the descent wasn’t too challenging. Our margins were so slim. I feel like every climb since then has been a kind of response. We cut it way back on that first climb, and I’ve been adding stuff ever since [thinking]: Our packs are still really light, but we should bring the tent—and we should bring two ropes … What are your primary motivations? If you’re going to put yourself in a position where you may be in harm’s way, the only reason I want to do that is because it’s something that I really want to do. I want all my decisions and objectives to be things I can come back and tell [my girlfriend] Shannon McDowell were good decisions.

I really want to get on top of these mountains, but I also don’t … I think I’m personally more haunted by the things I got away with than the things I let go. Do you like combining styles on a route? I do. I see alpine climbing as where we get to put it all together. A route [can involve] ice climbing, mixed climbing, aid climbing. I enjoy getting to apply all the disciplines on one route. It makes these routes in the alpine the ultimate test. Luckily there aren’t boulder problems on these routes very often. How do you balance safety and ambition? Being conservative doesn’t always mean not going, it just means thinking harder about what you’re doing. I have strong intentions about climbing for a long time. I’d like to show that if you try hard and make good decisions, you can be successful and survive—and not have a bunch of close calls. Steve Swenson and I were just [on Link Sar] in Pakistan, and we failed. It was totally O.K. I mean, of course we were bummed out, we spent nine weeks in the Karakoram and didn’t get on top of anything, but we made really good decisions about when to go up, when to go down, what to try and what not to try. We got pretty close to climbing an amazing route. It was a totally acceptable outcome.

AUSTIN SIADAK

SNAPSHOT

Yann Borgnet during the rst ascent of Fjalifoss (200 m, WI5+), Iceland. // Photo: Aymeric Clouet

The most advanced line of technical ice tools in the world ranging from the wildly popular X-Dream and X-Dream Alpine which have proven themselves on the most challenging routes in the world to the timeless X-All Mountain for big mountain adventures and the classic X-Light for next level performance on technical alpine terrain.

Lightweight. Innovative. Italian Design. // camp-usa.com/cassin

ACCIDENT PREVENTION

BY FRANCIS SANZARO

Prevention A crucial question needs to be asked—should these parties have been roped up? If the climbers hadn’t been roped together, it is possible that only one climber per accident would have died. The decision not to tie in as a group should always be determined by a variety of factors—skill level, equipment, angle of slope, etc. There are multiple situations when unroped glacier travel presents little risk; for instance, in late summer when the glacier is bare ice or on such hard and steep snow that some individuals on the team couldn’t self-arrest. This does not mean, however, that the two Italian families should have unroped. In the end, if it’s safer to unrope because of fear of falling or lack of arrest techniques, turning around may be your best bet. Should you decide to rope up, the nuances of safe glacier and snow travel are numerous. Some guidelines are:

The Illusion of Safety

Eight Die in a Weekend in the Alps in Roped Falls One Sunday this past summer, August 27, two separate accidents killed eight climbers in the Italian and Austrian Alps. According to multiple sources, the two incidents were similar in kind—multiple climbers roped together, a fall by a single climber, and others pulled into a crevasse. For the first incident, six climbers from Bavaria were climbing Mount Gabler in the Zillertal Valley of the Austrian Alps. High on the glacier at around 6,562 feet, some members of the group believed the slope was getting too risky to continue. A conversation ensued; perhaps they were about to turn back. According to Martin Reichholf, head of the rescue and recovery effort, the climber second to the top fell, pulling the entire group down for roughly 600 feet. The slope was steep, about 40 degrees, and rocky. Self-arrest attempts were made, but proved unsuccessful. All six plunged into a crevasse. Only one climber, age 60, survived. The second incident was in Adamello Brenta Park, not far from Trento, a Northern Italian city close to the Brenta Dolomites. The climbers were on the northwest ridge of Cima Presanella. Nine individuals (two Italian families) were roped together when someone slipped on the lower sections of the rope, dragging those on the upper slopes into a crevasse; the exact cause of the fall is unknown. Two members of the team died in the crevasse, while a third died later in the hospital. All nine members of the party including two 13-year-olds were injured.

Analysis The majority of the climbers in these two accidents likely died falling into a crevasse, although they could have died from hitting debris. The climbers on Mount Gabler, for instance, fell over 600 feet, down a rock- and ice-strewn snowfield, before ending up in the crevasse. The available reports do not indicate the systems the individuals were using, nor the experience level of each member. However, given the unfortunate extent of the deaths, it is likely that proper snow- and glacier-travel techniques were not followed. 12 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

Slope angle, size of potential crevasses, number of climbers, and experience level will dictate tie-in lengths. Though most sources cite 25 to 40 feet as the distance between climbers, don’t assume the recommendation works for all scenarios. The weakest climbers should be at the bottom of the rope when going up, or, alternatively, the first to head down. If you are roping up with another climber, be sure they know how to self-arrest, work a prussik, have the requisite equipment (crampons, axe, crevasse-rescue gear). Keep the rope taut between the team; some sources recommend having an arm’s length of rope on hand to give you just a moment’s extra time to get ready to catch a fall. Too much slack lets the falling climber accelerate, making a catch that much more difficult. Place protection between climbers, especially if you have inexperienced members; or tie knots every few meters in the rope; a knot might jam in lip of the crevasse. Be aware that such knots make hauling a member out of a crevasse on that rope virtually impossible. In heavily crevassed terrain or terrain with hidden crevasses, belay one another in pitches. When in doubt, belay inexperienced climbers across zones where they might fall. If you are roped up and aren’t placing protection, be certain that anyone on that rope can catch a fall. If they can’t, the rope is nothing more than false security.

KAMIL DANIEL JUTKIEWICZ

The ever-popular Aiguille du Midi above Chamonix, France. Roping up to cross easy terrain such as a snow ridge or glacier is common, but unless you place protection, you aren’t being as safe as you might think.

EVERYMAN'S EXPOSED

LEFT: Kelly Khiew harpoons Captain Ahab (5.11a), Long Dong (Dragon's Cave), northeast coast of Taiwan. PHOTO: CHEANG QING XIN

Cleopatra's Needle (WI 5+), Hyalite Canyon, Montana. Ted Lange climbing. This image was taken by Lange's 16-yearold son, who started climbing at age 4. Cleopatra's Needle was his fifth day on ice, and his first multi-pitch climb. PHOTO: IAN LANGE

JOHN PRICE MARGO TALBOT AND SARAH HUENIKEN CLIMBING WICKED WANDA (WI4+) ALBERTA, CA

Changing temps doesn’t have to mean changing clothes. The Ascendant gives you more adaptability in fewer layers for an all-in-one outerwear piece that won’t weigh you down.

NEW ASCENDANT JACKET ™

When seasons change, you don’t.

move. don’t remove.

OUTDOORRESEARCH.COM

MY EPIC

BY JORDAN CANNON

A LONG WAY DOWN 150-footer on the Nose

For a moment, I was suspended in silence. Darkness rushed in around me, dreamlike. The panic disappeared, and I felt totally calm, accepting my fate. Was I about to die? For the next five seconds, I bounced violently down the slab, gear banging. Mike’s headlamp slowly passed by. Earlier that morning, at 3:15 a.m., my phone had gone off, but it was not my alarm. It was my friend Mike Donaldson from Search and Rescue. “Dude, are you awake?” Shit! I was supposed to pick him up at the lodge 15 minutes before. “Sorry,” I mumbled. “I’m running a few minutes late.” We had plans to do the Nose on El Capitan in a day, to finish my season. It was Monday, June 26. I had been climbing in Yosemite Valley for 18 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

two months straight, but the hot summer temps were starting to sap my motivation. “One last climb,” I had told myself as I stared at the ceiling of my van in the Curry Village parking lot. By 4 a.m., we were on our way to the base of El Cap to climb the most famous big-wall route in the world. Neither Mike nor I had done the Nose before, but we felt ready. “How could I have slept through my alarm?” I thought as we navigated through the swampy meadow at the start of the trail. I never do that, especially on a day like today. Usually I’m too excited to sleep and wake up before my phone goes off. Maybe running up the Steck-Salathé with Timmy O’Neill the day before wasn’t such a good idea. “Dude,” Mike said as the massive wall finally came into view, “there’s already another party at the base. Look, you can see their headlamps on the first pitch.” “I guess we’ll just have to climb faster,” I said as we quickened our pace. We arrived at the base to see the leader about 50 feet up. If not for me, we would have been here first. Mike was being nice about it, but I felt the need to make it up to him. “Do you guys mind if we pass?” I called up, already in my shoes and tying in. “Uhhh, sure,” he said. “Why don’t you just start climbing and we’ll see how it goes?” That was all I needed to hear. The first four pitches of the Nose, to Sickle Ledge, are notoriously funky whether you’re free-climbing or aiding. Even top climbers are often spit off by the slick, flared cracks on the first 500 feet, but I wasn’t thinking about that. All I cared about was passing the climber in front of me. “Man, you’re climbing much faster than I am. You guys should be able to pass no problem,” the leader said at the first belay. “Thanks,” I said, peering ahead. “Wait, is that Jordan?” he asked. “Dude, it’s Nate!” “Oh, hey! I didn’t recognize you in the dark,” I said as I climbed by. Most people don’t liked to be passed on a route, so it was nice to see a familiar face and make the transition a little less awkward. We exchanged a few words while I pulled up about 50 feet of rope, fixed it to the anchor, and took off, leaving a medium-sized “Pakistani Death Loop”—a term Timmy O’Neill coined after taking a “PDL” fall while speed climbing in Pakistan—below me. Climbing the Nose in a Day (aka, the NIAD) has become relatively common in the decades since 1975, when Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay and John Long were the first party to climb the entire 3,000-foot route in under 24 hours. Speed climbing is now an integral part of climbing history in Yosemite, its revolutionary tactics enabling outrageous link-ups. We were short fixing, a method allowing the leader to get a jump on the next pitch by tying off the rope for the follower and climbing on with a self-

ADRIENNE RUSSELL

What started out as a dream quickly turned into a nightmare as I plummeted with no end in sight, then hit a bulge and went airborne. Grit your teeth, and prepare for impact.

MY EPIC Presented by: belay. However, if the leader feels the climbing is easy and solid, he or she may decide not to selfbelay but climb protected only by a further, more dangerous type of short-fixing, the “PDL,” which involves more risk the more rope you pull up to tie off. Regardless, the higher the leader climbs, clipping gear, the better protected he or she is. The lower, the worse. I reached the top of the third pitch feeling fast and efficient. By that point, Mike and I had both passed Nate and his partner below, and I was eager to keep charging all the way to Sickle, the first natural bivy ledge on the route. I had practiced short-fixing a fair amount and felt comfortable on the Yosemite granite. Blinded by self-confidence, I pulled up the rest of the rope and tied it off. “Line’s fixed!” I yelled down to Mike, and blasted off the belay. The next pitch was relatively easy, and in my mind I was already on Sickle. In fact, I never even considered falling to be a possibility. Without conscious thought, I proceeded with a huge “PDL” in tow. I made a couple of awkward moves above the belay and grabbed a long sling dangling from a fixed piece. Safe! I yarded for another sling a few feet above. My fingers were almost through it when I felt something shift and instantly lost control. Panic surged through my body as I flailed my hands, trying to catch something, anything, but as the darkness rushed in I remembered how much slack was left in the rope. I hadn’t clipped a single piece of gear. What started out as a dream quickly turned into a nightmare as I plummeted with no end in sight, then hit a bulge and went airborne. Grit your teeth, and prepare for impact. I closed my eyes and slammed back into the wall with a thud, finally coming to the end of my rope. “Aaagh, what the fuck!” I cried, trying to right myself in my harness. “Dude, are you O.K.?!” Mike shouted from a full pitch above. I could feel something warm rushing down my back, but overall seemed to be intact. “Yeah, I think I just popped a piece of gear. Should I keep going?” I asked, looking up into the darkness. “Why don’t you just hang out for a minute and clip yourself in?” Mike said. “I’ll be right there.” For a moment all I could think about was finishing the climb. Then reality sank in: I’d lost my glasses and headlamp in the fall, and pain was rushing into my body as the magical effects of adrenaline wore off. “Holy shit, dude. I thought you were going all the way. You just didn’t stop falling,” Mike said as he rapped down to meet me at the top of the second pitch. Nate and his partner caught up to us, and after making sure I was all right, he quietly asked, “Hey, Jordan, I don’t mean to be a dick, but is it O.K. if we pass?” We all laughed, and that’s when I knew it was over. Nate started working his way up the next pitch as Mike and I

prepared to descend. Experienced in rescue, Mike was able to lower me safely a couple hundred feet to the base. I wasn’t much help. My back slowly dripped blood onto the rock below me, and the skin on two fingertips was completely removed. On my way down, irrational as it seems, I still found it hard to accept that Mike and I were no longer going to climb the Nose. I was thankful to be alive, but disappointed that my season in Yosemite had to end that way. Was it really worth it? I thought as Mike drove to the Medical Center to get me checked and cleaned up. Nothing would turn out to be broken, but I felt physically wrecked. For the next week, penned up in my van waiting for my painfully stiff and scabbing back to heal, I struggled to process what had happened. At first I was convinced I had broken a piece of fixed gear and that the fall was out of my control, but then I realized that was just my ego talking. It didn’t really matter whether a piece pulled or, as I now think, my foot slipped, and I simply let go. Either way, I didn’t need to fall as far as I did. I could have waited a couple more minutes for a belay, but instead took an unacceptable risk that almost got me killed. Over the years of climbing in Yosemite, I had created an idea that my first time up the Nose had to be fast, but after falling 150 feet I realized it doesn’t really matter. Unless you’re trying to break a speed record, no one really cares whether you climb it in four hours or four days. I was so intent on a respectable time on the Nose that I was climbing more to prove something to my peers than to myself, which is one of the worst mistakes you can make as a climber. Back home in Bishop, I sat down with a respected friend, Peter Croft, who said, “You can either let this make you a better climber or a worse climber.” For a while I was sure it would make me worse, but I’ve had a lot of time to think since then, and now I can honestly say I’ve learned to respect the process and not get too attached to the end goal, which can cause you to lose focus in the moment and make a careless mistake like I did. There’s a big difference between confidence and courage. Over the years, I’ve learned that courage is the ability not to be ruled by fear, and every climber wants that, right? But you can’t be courageous if you don’t know what you’re doing, why you’re doing it, and the likely outcome, because if you do something without knowing it’s dangerous and survive, that’s not being courageous, that’s just getting lucky, which is exactly what happened to me on the Nose.

CALLEN HEARNE

Over the years of climbing in Yosemite, I had created an idea that my first time up the Nose had to be fast, but after falling 150 feet I realized it doesn’t really matter.

Jordan Cannon, 23, is based out of Bishop, California. Got an epic? Rock and Ice welcomes tales from our readers. Please submit your story to Alison Osius, at aosius@bigstonepub.com. Beginning in February 2018, Rock and Ice, in partnership with Outdoor Research, will podcast My Epics at www.rockandice.com. F E B R UA R Y 2 018 19

By Jeff Jackson

At 8 a.m. on July 27, 2017

CLAUDIA LOPEZ

Armando Menocal, 76, strolled up to a sidewalk table looking like he always does:

You may not know Armando Menocal, but when you clip a bolt or climb on public lands you can thank him for it.

cool and in a good mood. He was in Salt Lake City for an outdoor-industry trade show. His smile showed off a sizeable gap between his front teeth. Armando wore an African-print shirt and gray shorts. An Exum Mountain Guides' visor shaded big sunglasses.

It had been a few years since I’d seen Armando. He had the same strong legs and nice tan, but there were Band-Aids on his arms. He’d been having trouble with his heart, he said, noting the irony that a mountaineer and cross-country ski racer who’d always depended on his heart and lungs was now struggling with his ticker. He was on blood thinners and his skin was “getting old.” Roughly from 1986 to 1993 Menocal was one of the founders and de facto leader of the nascent Access Fund. It is hard to imagine where climbing would be today without Armando. He fought for climbers’ rights, and though he wasn’t a fan of bolts he believed the government shouldn’t dictate how or where climbers place them. When government agencies tried to ban bolts, Armando stood in their way. When trad climbers rallied against sport climbers, Armando stood in the middle. Without him we might not have sport climbing. Without sport climbing we might never have had gyms. Without Armando you might have to go to Europe or Mexico or Canada to clip bolts. Rifle. The New. The Red. And a thousand other sport crags might not exist. I told Armando that I was interested in this pivotal time when climbing hung in the balance, but he started at the beginning, telling me about his mother, Dolores Granda Menocal, and father, Armando Menocal, and growing up in Miami, Florida, as a third generation Cuban-American. His great, great grandfather came to the United States to escape the 10-year (1870 to 1880) Cuban war for independence from Spain, he explained. “Cuba lost that one,” Armando said in his rich story-telling voice, “and that was the first Cuban immigration to the United States. A huge number of Cubans came into Key West, started the tobacco industry there, and that’s when my great grandparents came.” He said that a cousin of his great grandmother was the president of Cuba from 1912 to 1920 and that the president, Mario GarciaMenocal, was once the subject of an H. L. Mencken story wherein Menken claimed not to know whether Garcia-Menocal was “more famous for his prodigious drinking or stealing from the public purse.” This quote tickled Armando, who laughs easily and it took a little while for him to recover himself, but he finally stopped giggling and spoke of his three boys Matt, Marshall and Diego and his work in the 1980s as a civil-rights lawyer in San Francisco where, in Larry P. vs. Riles, he challenged the use

22 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

of the IQ test in California schools. He believed the tests were discriminatory, and he won but it took 20 years. “IQ tests are still used,” he said, “but not in California.” Then he talked about the summer he climbed every dome in Tuolumne, how he’d never climbed a 5.12, considered himself a trad climber and yet somehow became a defender of bolts and sport climbing. While we discussed the fundamental rights of climbers Armando engaged in some gentle table pounding. In April 1990, Menocal had just turned 49. He was at the height of his legal career, the lawyer who wins the big cases, an erstwhile law professor at Stanford, a ski racer in the winter, run-out 5.10 climber in Tuolumne all summer, and “kind of a swashbuckler, and fun,” says Maria Cranor, then the marketing director at the newly formed Black Diamond Equipment, as well as a member of the fledgling Access Fund. American rock climbing was experiencing an earthquake of a magnitude it hadn’t felt before or since. The traditional way to climb was to start on the ground and climb to the top. Sport climbers wanted to start at the top and go down. It all seems so simple and innocent from the vantage of 27 years,

“In the mid ’80s climbing areas were getting closed, and because I was a public-interest lawyer, people would call,” Armando says. “The people in charge didn’t know what to do. Land managers were freaking out.”

but what Armando calls the “Old Guard” didn’t like it. “The underlying driver of the sturm und drang that sucked us all in during the late ’80s, early ’90s was a cultural clash between climbing generations,” says Cranor. “Lycra! Bolts! Comps! Frenchmen! It was all too much for the father figures of climbing, who seemed to have lost their gravitas and influence overnight.” On the “trad” side there were name-calling, chopped bolts, John Wayne references, derogatory bumper stickers such as “Sport Climbing is Neither,” fistfights, ruined friendships. To be fair, some sport climbers—a new name to distinguish the new sort of climber—were vain. They dieted. They wore really tight Lycra. But they did do some very hard and bold rock climbs. Climbs that were miles harder than anything the Old Guard had ever climbed. By 1990 top-down bolting had impacted the world outside the factionist minutiae of climbing style and dogma, too. Entire crags were equipped in days, and sport climbers brought their power tools and mullets to National Forest Service and Park Service lands, county parks, and city parks all over America. That’s when Armando started getting phone calls. “In the mid ’80s climbing areas were getting closed, and because I was a public-interest lawyer, people would call,” Armando says. “The people in charge didn’t know what to do. Land managers were freaking out.” Recognizing the brewing threat, in 1985 the American Alpine Club president Bob Craig asked Armando to start an Access Committee. At first there were only two members, Jim Angell and Armando. Later a mainly volunteer crew of go-getters including John Juraschek, Randy Vogel, Sam Davidson, Mike Jimmerson, Rick Accomazzo, Mike Clifford, Alan Rubin, and Maria Cranor brought tactics Armando had picked up while he was at law school at George Washington University from 1964 to 1966, a place where he was “fully radicalized.” Armando used his abilities as a lawyer to keep clients in a piece-of-shit apartment that was their home, even though they had not paid rent. He fought so they could keep the car they needed to get to work even though they couldn’t make payments. He got blacks or women on police forces even though they hadn’t passed the physi-

MENOCAL COLLECTION

cal or mental tests. “Some would say this is wrong,” says Armando, “but [I believe] there are a higher set of values.” “Armando was intense,” says Brady Robinson, the current executive director of the Access Fund. “He has mellowed out in the last 10 years. Armando is a softie and an incredible humanitarian, but the power he wielded in the world as an attorney was that of a fighter, so when confronted with challenges and obstacles, he tended to fight in the way he knew how.” At around the same time [1988 and 1989], the district Forest Service ranger in the Superstitions outside of Phoenix, Arizona, wrote an order that prohibited bolting after a Sierra Club photographer complained about having too many climbers in his photos. The district ranger there decided that bolts were a violation of the 1972 Wilderness Act, declaring them “abandoned personal property” and “permanent structures.” After getting wind of this closure, the Forest Service appointed a task force to look into the matter in the Superstitions and make recommendations, and while they were at it, come up with a bolting policy for all Forest Service lands. Since policy tends to be shared on all federal lands, there was a chance the National Parks would adopt whatever rules the Forest Service approved. If the Forest Service followed the district ranger’s recommendation, bolts would be illegal on all the crags on Forest Service lands and potentially all federal lands, a bolt ban that could have included the entire High Sierra, the Cascades, Sawtooths, all of Yosemite including El Capitan, all of Joshua Tree, the New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, City of Rocks, and Shelf Road. Suddenly there was both an internal squabble among climbers over the ethics of bolts and a far-reaching bureaucratic agency making policy about bolting. The consequences of an agency-wide ban on bolting could have been existential—routes couldn’t be maintained, anchors would rust and rot. As Armando pointed out, “Once they banned bolts, the debate would move onto removal.” Oddly, some prominent climbers were actually hoping that the Feds would move in and regulate ethics by prohibiting rappel bolting. But Armando and the Access Committee made it their policy to defend every climber’s right “to decide where and when to use whatever climbing techniques they deemed proper,” Armando says. “Our policy was that no Park or Forest administrator could secondguess a climber’s call that a bolt is needed for

American Alpine Club annual dinner, San Diego, 1990. This was the evening that the Access Committee split off to become the Access Fund. Paul Diffenderfer is seated far left, Armando Menocal is seated second from right. Randy Vogel is standing third from right. Sam Davidson is second from right; John Juraschek is far right.

protection or anchor.” Among those who disagreed with the Access Committee’s vigorous support of sport climbing was a faction of the American Alpine Club, including future club president Jed Williamson and treasurer Bill Putnam. “Bolting for sport climbing changed everything,” says Williamson. “I didn’t like it because 1) it defaced the walls and 2) it meant risk went down—no consequences if you fell. My deal was this: go to the bottom of the cliff, try to see if you could see a line, try to climb it, and if you met an impasse, down-climb.” This ground-up versus top-down ethical impasse led to squabbles within the club and long debates over how to approach access issues. “They [the Alpine Club] were asking us, ‘Why are you going to talk to these people in Arizona? This is a little local issue,’” Armando says. “Almost as if we were making it a bigger issue than it was. But if bolts had ever been declared illegal … Just look at the history of mountain biking.” [Bikes were banned from wilderness areas in 1984 and they’re still banned.] In December 1989, the disagreement within the Alpine Club over how to proceed became untenable and the Access Committee voted to secede. Armando’s response was to start the Access Fund, a nonprofit fund with less than $50,000 in seed money from donations made to the Access Committee. Not all climbers liked the Access Fund. Almost immediately its largest corporate

sponsor stopped donating. Prominent alpinist Chris Jones penned the article, “Who Needs the Access Fund?” “I had climbing partners who disagreed,” says Armando, “but few rude or threatening encounters. I think I had more bad scenes with pro-bolting folks, who objected to anything short of take-no-prisoners. Some wanted to demonize all opponents, as they thought they were being demonized.” Armando says the early meetings of the Access Fund “were hell.” They debated whether they were an access or conservation organization, and just what access they would advocate for. Would they fight for closed areas? Were they going to defend climbers who climbed in closed areas? They received requests from climbers who wanted help bolting highway overpasses and artificial structures. Each issue had to be discussed. During those early days the Access Fund was hand-to-mouth. It didn’t have an office. Everyone worked at home and everyone paid for their own travel. Payroll was for two people, Armando worked for free, and the Access Fund was “over budget on day one,” says Armando. Randy Vogel, Sam Davidson and John Juraschek joined Armando in the work. “No one ever said don’t do it, we can’t afford it,” says Armando. “We survived not just because of passion and luck,” says Armando, “but because of the outdoor industry, which supported us with money almost from the beginning. They recognized that if we succeeded, they had a better chance to succeed.”

F EB RUA RY 2 018 23

After a letter-writing campaign that mainly included two Arizona locals, John “Dief” Diefenderfer and Michael Jimmerson, and Armando, and after meetings and disagreements with the government and conservation groups and wrangling and politicking, the 1989 Forest Service task force recommended that bolts be allowed on Forest Service lands. It was a precedent and a huge victory for climbers, but the Forest Service failed to take up the recommendations, and the bolting issue remained unresolved only to flare up again and again like coals on a windy night. Armando and the Access Fund, by then in partnership with the American Alpine Club and other outdoor-industry groups, put out those fires, too. “Had it not been for Armando’s tenacious leadership, dogged perseverance and visionary understanding of the evolving sport,” says former president of Black Diamond Peter Metcalf, “we most likely would not have the vibrant and rich climbing scene that we have today.” Today, Williamson says that Armando was right to create the Access Fund. “I was opposed at the time, but have come to appreciate his correct analysis. Wish ‘we’ [the AAC] had supported it wholeheartedly back then.” From its modest beginnings the Access Fund grew year after year and now has a staff of 27, a $2.5-million annual operating budget and has paid for the acquisition and preservation of 68 climbing areas. “We currently support 117 local climbing organizations and played a crucial role in the formation of many of them,” says Brady Robinson. “When you include our policy support, the work of the LCOs and our acquisitions and loan work, we have saved and conserved thousands of areas since 1991. We have honestly lost track!” In November of 1998 Armando was in Havana sitting in the lobby of the Havana Libre (known as the Havana Hilton before Fidel Castro took over) having a Hatuey beer when a group of four attractive women approached. The one nearest Armando, Laura Rodriguez, asked, “Can we sit here?” (In Cuba, locals can’t sit in hotels or restaurants unless they are the guests of tourists.) Armando had come to Cuba on a solo mission to see the country of his ancestry and connect with a place he had visited frequently as a boy. Sometimes his parents would let him go alone on the short flight between Miami to Havana into the arms of his relatives to whom he was known as El Americanito.

24 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

Castro took power in 1959, and then there was the failed CIA-sponsored Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961. Soon after, the United States made it a crime to travel to Cuba and Armando didn’t go back for 40 years. Then he read something in his Lonely Planet guidebook about a World Heritage site, a Cuban valley called Viñales described as a “miniature Yosemite,” and he decided to check out the island’s climbing potential. He got around the travel ban by flying in and out of Mexico. Hot with first-ascent fervor he was stoked to explore but then, out of nowhere, there were these four beautiful Cuban ladies asking to be his guests. By the end of that evening he decided that his exploration could be delayed for three days. After those three days Armando invited Laura to come with him to Viñales, but she couldn’t go. Viñales really was a dreamy place with 1,000-foot overhanging, tufa-laced limestone walls. “Would it be possible to climb this unique architecture,” Armando wrote in a Rock and Ice article soon after his first trip, “through roofs, link alcoves, reach bigger and higher grottos, and in this way climb these overhanging caverns?” Armando hired a local farmer to cut a trail to the most prominent wall, a towering shield of golden limestone. The next February,

“We survived not just because of passion and luck,” says Armando, “but because of the outdoor industry, which supported us with money almost from the beginning. They recognized that if we succeeded, they had a better chance to succeed.”

Armando was back with Craig Luebben, a prominent rope-gun, and the then Rock and Ice publisher George Bracksieck, to put up routes and promote climbing. At the government-sponsored Sport City complex in Cuba, Luebben gave a slide show about how to climb ice to a room full of people who had never seen anything frozen outside the cubes in their mojitos. After the show, the team produced a duffle full of old climbing shoes and harnesses and handed them out. People responded, and out of that trip modern Cuban rock climbing was born. As the years passed, Armando started coming to Cuba for Laura as much as the climbing. In 1999 he spent all of February, April and October in Cuba. And then he started spending all fall and spring in Cuba with Laura in Viñales, only heading back to his home in Jackson, Wyoming, for winter skiing and summer guiding. Every visit he’d invite more people and add routes and soon there was a little community of local climbers. Guys like Anibal Fernandez and Carlos Pinelo who started climbing with Armando, and then added new and harder routes of their own. Both Fernandez and Pinelo had only climbed on limestone when they received a grant in 2001 to complete guide training in Jackson with Exum Mountain Guides. The trip outside Cuba was thanks to Armando, who arranged the travel, raised funds, met with pooh-bahs and basically made it all happen, according to Dave Ryan, an old climbing buddy of Armando’s and one of the guides who trained Fernandez and Pinelo in their 10-day course. In the fall of 2005 Armando was standing in line waiting to enter Havana, holding a bag with a new dress, shoes and a purse—gifts for Laura for their wedding day. Everything was ready. The wedding planned. Laura had been overseeing the construction of their house in Viñales. But then a Cuban official “pulled me out of line,” Armando says, “and told me I was inadmissible. I told the guy my fiancée was waiting.” But they put Armando in a room in the dark and made him wait all night. “In the morning they got my bags, took my passport and walked me to my seat on the flight back to Cancun.” Armando tried again and again, but three times he was turned back in Havana. Twice he was stopped in Miami. In Cuba, Laura demanded to see Fidel Castro. “Usually the only Cubans who ask to see Fidel are kooks,” says Armando. “Laura had never

MALCOLM DALY, CRAIG LUEBBEN, RICH HENKE

Summit of Triconi Nail via Cerebus (5.8), Needles of South Dakota, in 1994. Menocal on top, Sam Davidson below. UPPER RIGHT: First ascent of Flyn’ Hyena in Cuba’s Viñales Valley, 1999. The route remains the longest in Cuba, on most spectacular wall. Craig Luebben bolted the route, then gifted it to Menocal. LOWER RIGHT: Glacier Bay, Alaska, 2009.

done anything like that in her life.” Laura didn’t get to see Castro but one of his secretaries. Then she met with the Office of the Communist Party Immigration Official, and was told that whatever Armando had done (they refused to tell her what), he had served his sentence and that he was now free to return. But when he tried to fly to Cuba, officials turned him around again. “I was a foreigner spending a lot of time in Cuba, in the company of mostly Cubans, and the government was nervous,” says Armando. “I knew I was being watched. Unfortunately right about then I started keeping records on climbs for a guidebook. I had all these notes and drawings and on my rest days I would go wander all over. I had a mountain bike with a computer to measure distance and stuff. I was all over the valley, and everybody knew that.” The year before, in 2004, a couple of concerning things had happened. Anibal was busted for a small amount of marijuana and the authorities questioned him for three and a half days about Armando. “They had photocopies of my climbing

notes,” says Armando. “They had photos of me out scouting the valley.” The cops showed Anibal pictures of Armando riding a mountain bike. “What is he doing?” they asked. Anibal didn’t know what to say. “He’s riding a bike.” Then one night at the home of Oscar Jaime, the unofficial basecamp for climbers, Armando and Oscar drank a little too much rum and Oscar told him about the time he was invited to a party at a fancy hotel and how all of a sudden everybody disappeared and Oscar was standing with the Viñales chief of security, just the two of them. The chief says, “Look, I’ve got a job I want you to do. We know Armando has a transistor radio and we want to know what he uses it for, so tomorrow when he goes out climbing I want you to bring it to us and we’ll give it back to you at the end of the day.” Oscar didn’t know what to do. Then he remembered the transistor radio that Lynn Hill had given him after her climbing trip earlier that year. “So that’s what he did,” Armando says.

“Thank god Lynnie didn’t have anything illegal inside her radio, or I would have been arrested! But you know, I didn’t have anything to hide. I wasn’t doing anything wrong.” There are three “big” things in which the Cuban government takes pride: the education system, the health-care system and sports. “Sports are controlled one hundred percent by the government,” says Armando. “It’s based on the East German model and here was this sport that had developed organically. And Cubans are being supported by foreigners—worse, an American. They don’t like sports that are created and run by outsiders. But as you and I know, climbing isn’t run by anybody. I’m no saint, but I tend to think that [my being banned] was because of their hostility to a sport that was independent.” Recognizing that he might never be allowed back in Cuba, Armando decided to get Laura out of Cuba. After five years he succeeded, and the two finally were married in Coral Gables, Florida in 2010, the day after she came to the United States.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 25

Laura and Armando never stopped trying to get back to their home in Viñales. Years passed but in the interim Armando stayed active—climbing, nordic skiing and mountain biking with his two Siberian huskies Paprika and Wasabi, and taking on local issues like standing up for open-trail access and lobbying to get the jingus bolts on Blacktail Butte in Grand Teton National Park replaced. He could also be found, “at least a couple of days a week holding court with the regulars at the brewpub—club mug #14, the one with the Cuban flag on it,” according to Dave Ryan. In addition to the local activism, Armando had the inklings of something bigger. “After I was declared inadmissible and saw that the Cuban climbers weren’t even allowed to organize a club, I started to think about trying to start an international access organization,” he says. He settled on Latin America because of the common language and spent two years, from 2007 to 2009, raising funds and talking to sponsors. In August 2009, climbing advocates from the United States, Spain, Canada, and all over Latin America met in Squamish at a mountain-film festival. Three days later Accesso PanAm was formed. “I had a little bit of money left over and I hired Kika Bradford, a Brazilian, to be the executive director,” says Armando. In an e-mail, Bradford wrote: “Soon after the Squamish meeting, we engaged in the fight to protect Cochamó, an incredible alpine valley in Chile, which was threatened by a hydroelectric plant. Cochamó is still under several private landowners’ hands and not 100 percent protected, but the cam-

26 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

paign we ran in 2009 and 2010 was enough to stop the plant and secure a wild atmosphere for the area.” Today, Access PanAm is training activists, hiring regional directors, building grassroots chapters and alliances with other conservation organizations, working on waste-management projects in Patagonia, and printing a climbing-management manual in Portuguese. In Brazil alone Access PanAm’s activism has led “to the securing or improvement of access to climbing areas in at least five national parks, five state parks, and many city parks,” according to Bradford.

“Climbing may be in my blood, but not climbing due to age is awkward. Mostly I sit on my porch looking out at the royal palms and the limestone walls of Viñales and write about climbing."

In January 2016 Armando and Laura Menocal were allowed back in Cuba. Armando doesn’t know why, but guesses that when the Cuban bureaucracy transferred its paper records to computers they simply lost him in the shuffle. Armando and Laura now spend about half of their time at their home in Viñales and the other half in Jackson. During some backand-forth to fill in the blanks for this story, Armando sent me the most incredible sunset photo from Viñales. “Another bluebird day in paradise,” he wrote. “Moments like these I thank climbing for bringing me to these places.” Armando doesn't climb much anymore, but keeping climbing unregulated and as free as can be remain, after decades of work, priorities. He is active as the president of Accesso PanAm and fundraises for the same. He is also an advocate for Cuban climbing, running the website cubaclimbing.com, where he provides vital information on the ever-changing access issues and encourages visitors to bring much-needed gear and bolts with them. “Climbing may be in my blood, but not climbing due to age is awkward,” says Armando. “Mostly I sit on my porch looking out at the royal palms and the limestone walls of Viñales and write about climbing.” Across from the home that Armando continues to work on, in the verdant valley of Viñales, a particular wall stands out. The Cubans call it Vista de Armando— Armando’s view. Jeff Jackson is Editor at Large for Rock and Ice.

MENOCAL COLLECTION (2), YOMARA GARCIA

Menocal the attorney tackled civil-rights cases. MIDDLE: Menocal (far right) with Gary Lane headed up to Half Dome in 1974, as Menocal's son Matt examines the rope. RIGHT: Home at last. Menocal with his wife Laura at their home in Viñales, in 2017.

THE CLIMBER’S PACT

PHOTO COURTESY OF © KEENAN HARVEY

BE AN UPSTANDER, NOT A BYSTANDER BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER USERS · LEARN THE LOCAL ETHICS FOR THE PLACES YOU CLIMB · PARK AND CAMP IN DESIGNATED AREAS · DISPOSE OF HUMAN WASTE PROPERLY · STAY ON TRAILS WHENEVER POSSIBLE · PLACE GEAR AND PADS ON DURABLE SURFACES · RESPECT WILDLIFE, SENSITIVE PLANTS, SOIL, AND CULTURAL RESOURCES · CLEAN UP CHALK AND TICK MARKS · MINIMIZE GROUP SIZE AND NOISE · PACK OUT ALL TRASH, CRASH PADS, AND GEAR · USE, INSTALL, AND REPLACE BOLTS AND FIXED ANCHORS RESPONSIBLY

WWW.ACCESSFUND.ORG/THECLIMBERSPACT

Ben Rueck casts off on a difficult pitch, high on Delicatessen, in the The Aiguilles de Bavella, Corsica. Delaney Miller minds the rope.

•

feast or famine • BY BEN RUECK • PHOTOS BY JEFF RUEPPEL

Delicatessen is hailed as one of the most spectacular routes on Earth. Done 25 years ago but rarely repeated, two top climbers find out why.

For much of March and April we’d battled Delicatessen. Its paper-thin crimps and razor crystals, and its 2,000-foot Stair-Master approach up manzanita and through sharp vegetation had nearly crushed us. I was, it seemed, held together with duct tape, and more likely to swim back to my Mom’s lavender farm in Colorado than to climb the six-pitch route done over a quarter century ago. I tied off to the belay at the end of the first pitch. Did I dare look up at the remaining 400 feet of golden stone? My eyes dropped to the sheet of stone beneath my rockshoes. Specks of blood glistened in the creases of my palms and fingers, mementos from the crimps on the opening 5.14 pitch. The mechanical clack of a camera shutter snapped me to attention. Jeff Rueppel, one of my closest friends, and who was along to document the spectacular route, hung from a green 9 mil tied to the wall. Jeff is a “Technology Evangelist” for Adobe, a fancy way of saying that he promotes and demonstrates the company’s products. For the past three years Adobe has had him “on the beach,” a tech-industry term for employees who don’t have to regularly report to an office, and have abundant free time. When he isn’t pontificating about Lightroom or Photoshop, Jeff travels the world shooting climbing. “What are you going to do?” Jeff asked. “We’re losing light!” yelled Delaney Miller, hovering down on the ground, trying to stay warm. Delaney, a 22-year-old rock prodigy with hair as red as a Texan sunset and eyes as blue as a calm mountain lake, is a world-cup competitor unused to defeat. Over the past month we’d swapped belays working out Delicatessen’s moves. Standing five-foot-eight and long-limbed, I’d been able to make all of Delicatessen’s cruxy spans, but several reaches had just been too much for Delaney’s five-foot-four stature. Finding no in-between holds for workarounds, and with just a few days left on our trip, she had swallowed hard and shelved her climb to help me. Above us lay a formidable stretch of old-school face climbing up to 5.13, the sort of stuff that requires the touch of a corneal surgeon. In the wrong light the rock can seem impossibly blank. Even when you can see holds, the just-off-vert granite delivers the sort of

30 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

Clockwise from left: The Aiguilles de Bavella. This region is said to be Corsica’s most beautiful, but you would be hard pressed to find anywhere on the island that isn’t eye-popping. Jeff Rueppel with the bug-eyed VR camera. Rueck and Miller in the village of Zonza, about 15 minutes from the Aiguilles.

VR CAMERA PHOTO: COLETTE MCINERNEY

Whitecaps flashed against a sandy shoreline 30 miles east of my lofty perch on the granite monolith called Punta di U Corbu. Up on the crag I braced against a chilling breeze sweeping down from the snow-clad Alta Roca mountains. The cold of the Mediterranean island of Corsica had been the first surprise. The difficulty of the route Delaney and I had been trying was the second.

Miller on the palmy non-holds of the crux 5.14 pitch.

COLETTE MCINERNEY

Above us lay a formidable stretch of old-school face climbing up to 5.13, the sort of stuff that requires the touch of a corneal surgeon. movement that fell from favor decades ago. The style—frustrating to hateful—explains why on Corsica, a rock fortress strewn with boulders, ripped with precipitous gorges and bursting with spires, we could count all the climbers we’d seen in a month on one hand. According to Jean Louis Fenouil, author of the guidebook to Corsica, the island is largely undeveloped, with just 400 routes and perhaps 200 climbers. Making the right decision hung heavy. It wasn’t just the climbing, but the responsibilities of the trip sat on me like a 200-pound gorilla. Although I’d been on trips all over the world, I had never been the leader. I’d just tagged along. Now, in Corsica, the success or failure of the trip rested with me. Jeff had worked his tail off humping and fixing ropes, and had hung patiently, chafing in his harness to get the shots. Every day he had hiked out, his pack tottering with the Goggle camera, a bugeyed contraption of 16 cameras bolted together. Would anyone want

photos and video if we didn’t succeed? Delaney, like Jeff, had also endured. Hailing from balmy Dallas and with maybe one percent body fat, she had practically turned translucent from the cold. She had also dealt with a pack that weighed nearly as much as she does, and one day faced a runout that most climbers would later relate to their grandchildren. Now she was selflessly helping me. Would that also be for nothing?

Corsica, the “Isle of Beauty,”

is popular among European hoi polloi, but overlooked by Med-bound Americans who know only of the limestone of Kalymnos or Sardinia. Corsica, a collective territory of France, and birthplace of Napoleon, is but a sevenmile swim from Sardinia and 50 miles from the vineyards of Tuscany. Roughly the size of New Hampshire, the island is about half national parkland and its entire population is less than that of Honolulu. Though they are citizens of France, Corsicans are

F EB RUA RY 2 018 31

As I tumbled down an embankment, I questioned whether humans had ever passed this way. An hour later the bolts of Delicatessen affirmed that they had. fiercely independent, with their own language, cuisine and culture. Most road signs are in Corsican and French, with the French part X-ed out with spray paint. The beach perimeter of Corsica is dotted with resorts, but two-thirds of the island are mountains. Roughly 120 peaks rise from sea level to over 6,000 feet. The vertiginous terrain is rugged to impassable, and across it wends Europe’s most difficult trail, the GR-20, a 108-mile trek that traverses the island north to south and takes most hikers two weeks to complete. Stage 14 of the GR-20 draws near the Aiguilles de Bavella. These seven needles stab skyward and could be stand-ins for the Alps. Even in spring they stand against a backdrop of snow, another

32 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

surprise for a first-time visitor to the Mediterranean island. Near the needles is the Col de Bavella. Accessed by highway D268, one of the few real roads that cleaves the island longitudinally, this pine-wooded saddle has iconic views and an icon itself, the marble shrine of Notre Dame des Neiges, or Our Lady of the Snow. On the eastern side of the col, about 15 minutes downhill by car to the trailhead, lies Punta di U Corbu, a 500-foot granite monolith and the home of Delicatessen. Three years ago I’d studied a 1992 photo of legendary route developers Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson on Delicatessen. I was instantly hooked. Petit, rocking a mullet and cutoff jeans, was bolting, on lead amazingly, hanging on with one hand and drilling

Facing page: The wall of Punta di U Corbu. Delicatessen roughly takes the center line. Right: The third pitch, 5.12+, on the day of the ground-to-summit send.

with the other, the center line of Punta di U Corbu. Onsighting and drilling where they could, Petit and Husson forged their line, but pulled bolt to bolt through the cruxes, finding the climbing too stout for them at the time. An older and stronger Petit returned in 2001 to free the route. The second ascent, by Cedric Lacat and Nina Caprez, waited a full decade later. By 2017 Delicatessen had seen just seven ascents.

Last spring an opportunity dropped in my lap. Google asked Jeff to shoot something spectacular to show off its new Virtual Reality camera system. Sporting huecos the size of homes and with sculpted stone waves that would give Katsushika Hokusai pause, Delicatessen is a natural wonder—the perfect set for the Google project. Imperfectly, I had no one to climb with. Then I chanced upon Delaney Miller who said she needed a break

from competitions. I framed an ascent of Delicatessen as a romp on a Mediterranean island, with beaches and sun. I didn’t mention that, locked among snow-clad mountains, we would see little of that. Two weeks before we were to leave, we reviewed the logistics of gear, travel and multi-pitching. “Have you ever done a multi-pitch?” I asked. “Not really. In fact, I can probably count the number of times I’ve climbed outside, but that’s fine, it’s just a 5.14a,” she said. “Have you rappelled?” “No.” I’d only known Delaney by reputation as a tough and successful competition climber, but I was also aware of her quick send of Chris Sharma’s testpiece Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle, Colorado. Our first week on Corsica was rude. Thick clouds at the Col de Bavella butted against massive walls. We strained for a view.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 33

Col de Bavella

When we finally could see, the formation of Punta di U Corbu was unrecognizable in the vast landscape of innumerable walls, and we drove back and forth seeking it, battling carsickness on a snake of asphalt that rarely let Jeff upshift from second gear. “It’s like looking for a needle in a stack of needles,” Delaney said, craning her head at the walls. “Why would you make a road like this?” I moaned. A tavern owner later informed us that being able to access Corsica’s interior by vehicle is a modern luxury. And the few roads that do traverse the mountains can be little better than widened animal tracks. Indeed, you can drive for hours and dodge more sheep than cars. “Maybe we should have looked up the location of the crag,” I said as Jeff, at the helm of the rental car, whipped the wheel hard to the left, then hard to the right, then back. “Ya think?” Delaney said, stroking a finger through the air as if she was marking a point on an invisible scoreboard. Spotting two women hauling climbing gear from their car trunk, Jeff stopped, leapt out and fired off questions in the perfect French he had learned from Bleausards while living in Paris, where he taught school for two years. Fingers pointed in the direction of the mountains behind us, the women indicating that our wall was behind a massive feature we’d already agreed was “not it.” Twenty minutes down the trail, we were lost. Faint paths braided through dense vegetation and an hour-and-a-half approach turned

34 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

into five hours of prickly bushes, vines and third-class scrambling. As I tumbled down an embankment, I questioned whether humans had ever passed this way. An hour later the bolts of Delicatessen affirmed that they had. “You look awful,” Delaney said cheerily picking a leaf from my hair. “You do look awful,” Jeff chimed in. Delaney hummed thug-life music she’d blasted in the car. We dumped our gear, fixed the first pitch, pulling through on bolts, and hoofed it out of there, hoping to pick up the real trail on the way out only to realize that we were on it. We stayed in Quenza, 45 minutes away by car. A relic of a village, Quenza was nearly devoid of human life. Cattle, wild sheep and feral pigs roamed the streets uninhibited. Overlooking the medieval townwas a castle that could have been built by Bram Stoker himself. “Now I know where all the people have gone,” I said when I saw the castle.

Our job on our first real outing to Delicatessen was to fix a static line to the summit of the monolith by any means possible. With one rope fixed, I observed as Delaney struggled to jug up it. “Do you want help?” I asked. “No, I got it,” she said defiantly, not understanding why the rope wouldn’t slide through her rig. “The rope goes on the inside of the biner,” I said, after a few minutes.

ILLUSTRATION BY JEAN LOUIS FENOUIL

Delicatessen on the Punta di U Corbu, one of innumerable granite formations in Corsica’s Alta Roca mountains. Delicatessen, Corsica’s most difficult route, sees few repeats, and the island in general gets little climbing traffic despite nearly infinite climbing opportunities on a unique brand of huecoed and finned granite.

Above: Rueck does a likely FA on the Tete de Chene, or “Dog’s Head.” This problem wasn’t in the guidebook and didn’t show signs of having been climbed. It clocked in at V7/V8. In the woods behind this boulder Rueck and Miller found a wonderland of other gems in a setting that reminded them of Fontainbleau.

LOWER RIGHT STÉPHANE HUSSON

Far left: Bouldering old-school style—no pads. Near left: Arnaud Petit on the first ascent of Delicatessen. Amazingly, the route was established on lead. The results of this ground-up tactic yield some closely spaced bolts in the blanker sections, and spinetingling runouts whenever the grade backs off. Petit, only 21 at the time, was too inexperienced to free the route. He returned nine years later and dispensed with the aid.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 35

Corsica is essentially one big rock with villages tucked in between crags.

Miller takes advantage of a rest day to check out the climbing on a medieval bridge that’s still in use.

After making sure she was safe, I jugged to the first anchor. Forty minutes and a nap later, I heard Delaney approaching the anchor. “Jugging sucks!” she moaned, her left arm smoked from basically doing one arms the full length of the pitch. The sun disappeared behind the east-facing wall, and almost immediately it felt as if someone had left the freezer door open. We pulled our thin jackets tight. Racked and ready, I adventured through pitch two and sat for an hour at a wind-battered hanging belay as Delaney climbed to meet me. “Pitch three is yours,” I said. “Th-Tha-Thanks,” she stuttered through clenched teeth. For two hours neither of us had much luck. Delaney fought up technical crimps and finicky foot smears. I tried to weave the rope into a blanket. The chalkless holds were elusive. Until this point, the bolts had been close enough to pull through on at tough sections. But here, Petit must have just gone for it and run it out. Unable to do the moves to the next bolt, we abandoned the goal for that day and hiked down, our heads hanging. That night I sat brooding in the kitchen of our BNB in Zonza. We feasted on a budget dish of pasta and tomato sauce, saving our precious funds for special occasions to sample Corsican fare, often wild boar in a hearty stew or with fresh-cut linguini. While delicious, wild boars are a nuisance on the island, and have been so since the time of Charlemagne, who created the lieutenants de louveterie, a force of hunters paid to keep the beasts thinned to a tolerable level. Twelve-hundred years later, they are still working.

three weeks’ effort. She sat in the dirt staring at the wall, her words catching in her throat. “I can’t put it together in the time we have left. I’ve failed,” she said. I chuckled and twisted a stick into the dirt. “Why are you laughing?” she asked, lightning flashing in her eyes. “Déjà vu,” I said. “Been there. We just need to shift gears and still come out of this with a win.” “How?” she asked. “You should focus on pitch one as your objective. I’ll keep trying to link the pitches.” And that we did. My first two attempts to climb ground to top ended miserably. My mood soured as each sharp crystal dug into my raw tips. My motivation dimmed, then died. With our trip nearing its end, it didn’t look like we were going to do the climb. “What do you want to do?” Delaney asked one day as we dropped back to the car. I stopped on the trail. Twilight dappled the valley, painting the walls purple, red, orange and blue. We sat watching the light fade. Then I remembered why we were here. We weren’t here for the sponsors or to make a video or get pictures. We were here for moments just like this. “We have to keep trying,” I said. Days away from the wall were infrequent and we maximized them by cramming into the car and exploring other climbing possibilities. Our biggest outing was to Calanques de Piana, a six-hour drive northwest, where the red-granite formations are so spectacular they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, at a high col near the sea and roadside sits a stash of fine blocks including the Tete de Chien, a house-sized boulder with huecos and waves that begged for climbing. We didn’t have pads and the landing was a back breaker, but curiosity overrode caution, and Delaney and I pawed around the highballs while Jeff clicked away with his camera. Besides being an outstanding photographer, videographer, teacher

On our next outing we did make it bolt to bolt, fixed to the summit and began the arduous process of learning the moves. Two weeks later I had redpointed each pitch, although not in a row on the same day. Until that was done, I couldn’t claim an ascent. Delaney, meanwhile, was stymied by the first 5.14, pitch one. “I don’t think I am going to be able to do this,” she said after 36 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

Punta Lunarda near the Col de Bavella.

and spokesperson for Adobe, besides speaking fluent French and always being in an up mood, Jeff is also practically a sommelier. Since you can’t drive 30 minutes along Corsica’s coast without passing a vineyard, Jeff constantly wore a smile. Corsicans have been vintners since 570 B.C., and when Corsica was ruled by Italy, the Italians so prized the wine and its secrets that they banned its export for 500 years. After a day’s rest, and loaded up on food, we returned to Delicatessen where I surprised myself by dispatching pitch one. Incredibly, Delaney followed, also climbing no falls, flowing over moves that had been impossible for her. I was stunned. “What was that?” I asked. “That was me finally climbing,” she said, breaking into a grin. “You got this,” said Delaney, clipping the draws that she’d collected to my harness. For three hours we pushed up the wall, Jeff shooting alongside us with his weird crazy camera, Delaney climbing. Since she’d spent most of her time low on the wall, the upper section was practically new to her. In the name of expediency, she pulled through on draws when she had to. Pitch four, the sharpest and most technical of the six, doesn’t carry the hardest grade, but it was the crux for me. This monster crawls from a sculpted cave to a spooky stance on a three-inch spike

of stone that juts out like a unicorn horn. After that, the wall bulges to overhanging, and your battered tips get to taste a final ladder of micro-crimps. Manage that, and a modest bit of 5.11 gains the summit. When Delaney had had her struggles on pitch one, I had told her to narrow her goal to just one pitch. It had sounded like Yoda bullshit then, but it had worked. “One pitch at a time,” I told myself, thinking my B.S. might also work for me. I pulled onto the rock. “This is a moment, be present,” Delaney said, channeling a bit of Yoda herself. Surprised by having climbed to here without falling, I was surprised again to discover that rain had washed off my tick marks and chalk on this cruxy section. In my tired state I couldn’t remember the moves and began bungling them. I felt the bite of the rock, the pressure of the rubber on my shoes, and improvised a new sequence doing sideways mantels off credit-card crimps. Drops of sweat and blood patterned the holds, but I fought to the chains and after 30 minutes of anxiety punched the still air with a single word. “Off!” Ben Rueck last wrote about the first ascent of a 5.14 tips crack, Pure Pressure, Rock and Ice No. 233.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 37

THREE BIG FISH T H E AU T H O R R AC E S TO L I N K A T R I LO G Y O F C A N A D I A N FAC E S B E F O R E F AT H E R H O O D S LOWS H I M D OW N

By Sonnie Trotter

Sonnie Trotter high on the Diamond Face of Mount Louis with Brandon Pullan, working out the crux moves and long runouts of what is now The Shining Uncut (5.14a, 13 pitches).

38 F EB RUA RY 2 018 â&#x20AC;¢ IS S U E 24 8

JOHN PRICE

F EB RUA RY 2 018 39

The summer of 1994 was a breakthrough for climbing. Across the ocean to the east, three long, multi-pitch 5.14s were established high in the Alps by three of the greatest free climbers to ever lace up, and in three different countries. The routes were: Des Kaisers neue Kleider (5.14a, nine pitches), Wilder Kaiser, Austria, FA by Stefan Glowacz of Germany. Silbergeier (5.14a, six pitches), Rätikon, Switzerland. FA by Beat Kammerlander of Austria. End of Silence (5.14a, 11 pitches), Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany, FA by Thomas Huber of Germany. Glowacz, Kammerlander and Huber were visionaries. Long, hard alpine routes at that point in time had been nothing more than pipe dreams. Then, between the years 1994 and 2001, Glowacz raised the bar even higher by climbing all three routes. He coined his achievement the “Trilogy of the Alps.” Even today the Trilogy is formidable—just four climbers, Hari Berger, Ondra Benes, Mark Amannost, and Barbara Zangerl have repeated it. When I read about the Trilogy in the folds of Rock and Ice over 20 years ago, the routes’ history, aesthetics and reputations put them in my crosshairs. During the summer of 2004 I asked the strongest nine-and-a-half-fingered man I had ever met to go with me and try one of the Trilogy’s lines. “Let’s try Silbergeier, Beat Kammerlander’s route,” Tommy Caldwell said. “I’ve always wanted to see the Rätikon.” Our increasingly complicated lives—girls, work, money (lack of it) —however, got in the way. A year passed, then another, and Tommy and I were seven revolutions older,

40 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

married or engaged, soon to be with children. Going to Europe and attempting a single Trilogy route wasn’t going to happen. Then I thought, hey, there’s a lifetime of rock in my backyard of Canmore. What if I could find three mountains with steep rock close to home? I could then have my own Alpine Trilogy. I would be home every evening to enjoy a glass of wine with my wife and tuck my kids into bed, and still feel exhausted and inspired. I’d get to create something I could be proud of, but without the hassle of a deadline or a huge monetary investment. By sticking close to home I’d also get the emotional support I’d need to succeed on a big and difficult project. Having a trilogy with the climbing never more than an hour away was the perfect opportunity for me to replace my old dream with a new one. The wheels tur ned. I red- circled three mountains: Mount Louis, Castle Mountain and Mount Yamnuska. I coined the project the “Rocky Mountain Trilogy” in a tip of the hat to the linkup that triggered the dream in the first place. In the summer of 2011 Tommy and I hiked into Banff National Park and headed straight for the Diamond Face, a huge plaque of limestone separated up high pinnacle-style high from the unclimbed east face of Mount Louis.

PAUL ZIZKA PHOTOGRAPHY, TIM BANFIELD, SONNIE TROTTER, BEN MOON (FACING PAGE)

LEFT: The 15-pitch Northeast face of Mount Louis, Banff National Park. The Shining takes the diamond-shaped plaque high on the upper left side of the complex wall. UPPER: Early morning light on Castle Mountain, Banff National Park. War Hammer (5.14a) climbs the crisp buttress second from the right. LOWER: Tommy Caldwell studies The Shining crux after Trotter finishes bolting the line in a snowstorm in 2011. RIGHT: Trotter leads the long, exposed prow on War Hammer's eighth pitch, in 2013.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 41

MOUNT LOUIS “ROCK!” I swooped to the right of our belay and ducked. Whoooooosh! Ka-boooom! “This isn’t exactly what I was expecting,” Tommy yelled from the third bolt on our new route, The Shining, on Mount Louis. “What were you expecting,” I asked, dodging more rock. “You’re in Canada!” He chuckled and kept rope-gunning. Luckily for us the choss on Mount Louis cleaned up and after the fifth bolt the rock became quality, of the sort you’d find in Switzerland. About 500 feet later we hit the crux pitch, a 5.13c/d that took even Tommy a couple of goes to send. It took me a couple of return days to unlock this feisty pitch. On the day of our team ascent, Tommy and I both freed every pitch, with Tommy again leading the crux. I climbed it clean on toprope. Sincerely, it was one of the most memorable climbing adventures I’ve ever had. The Shining was a beautiful 15 pitches on a spectacular plate of rock, but we didn’t do it in perfect style. We had drilled two hanging belays so we could do the route with one 70m cord. The hanging belay felt like aid. Inspired by Tommy’s Dunn-Westbay climb on Longs Peak, where he eliminated a belay by joining two pitches into one 80-meter monster. I returned to The Shining in July to mop it up. The rope drag from linking those pitches was astonishing. My elbows shook as I fought to pull up slack, hold it in my teeth and reach down for another arm load. Every move was a battle, fighting for every foot smear and ticked hold. I inched way up the wall on sidepulls and underclings, milking every rest. When my toes felt as if they were about to explode, I stood on my heels. When I felt my heels slipping, I switched back to toes. By the time I reached the end of the long pitch, not using the two bolted anchors, my partner Dexter Bateman looked like a color speck over 260

42 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

feet below me. Dexter is in his early 20s, and I used to coach him on the junior climbing team when he was 17; one of the strongest and most natural climbers I’ve ever met. He’s selfless with a youthful sense of humor that often keeps you chuckling even mid-crux. I had never climbed such a long pitch in my entire life, and I released a cry of relief when it was over. With only 600 feet of 5.11 and 5.12 to the summit, I knew it was in the bag. There was a glitch: when we had started up the route, Dexter and I decided to go fast and light, leaving our approach shoes at the base of the wall, a point about halfway up the mountain. If we succeeded, which I figured we wouldn’t, we wouldn’t be able to rap the route because we wouldn’t be able to reverse the gap between the mountain and the huge detached blade of rock that we’d just climbed. Then, we’d either have to hike out three hours barefoot or wear our tight rock shoes, and later one of us would have to hike back in to retrieve our trail shoes. We contemplated whether we should continue to the summit or rappel to our shoes. “Well, if it means you get to achieve your goal, I’m into it,” Dexter said as he sat back in his harness. “It would suck, but make a great story.” That was just the motivation I needed and we blasted to the summit. To my amazement, we were even able to lasso the top of the pinnacle and reverse the gap. We hiked out in comfortable shoes and were eating pizza in Banff before midnight.

TIM BANFIELD, BEN MOON

LEFT: Digging deep on the cold and crisp final moves of Blue Jeans Direct, the easiest 5.14 of the Trilogy. Trotter had previously climbed the route, but not in 2017. He had to repeat it to complete the Trilogy in the same year. ABOVE: Trotter and Sam Eastman take a break before embarking on the dolomite of Castle Mountain, in 2013.

Trotter and Thomas Anderson on a 5.13a/b pitch of Blue Jeans Direct, Mount Yamnuska. This photo was taken during a ground-up attempt in 2015, the year Trotter added a more direct 5.14a pitch.

THE ROCKY M O U N TA I N TRILOGY

JOHN PRICE

C A S T L E M O U N TA I N I first saw the alluring line on Castle Mountain from the Trans-Canada Highway about 10 years ago while driving eastbound from a frigid ski session at Lake Louise. The sky was darkening, and the sun hung low on the horizon, dimly lighting the south face of Castle Mountain. My eyes always wander off the road when Castle Mountain comes into view. I can’t help it, it’s a sexy fortress of dolomite. Its walls are steep. Its ridgelines are obvious, and so are its innumerable towers. I pushed my face closer to the windshield to see past the frost, then there, on the far east side of the mountain, a giant fin of stone jutted up and out like a ship’s prow. I was determined to investigate. “Dude, be careful man, I don’t want to have to rescue your ass today,” Brandon Pullan hollered up to me, digging his heels into the loose scree slope. He didn’t trust my judgment in rock quality. Originally from the same town as I am in Ontario, Brandon I started climbing around the same time I did, but I didn’t really get to know him until we both wound up in Canmore. “Thanks, man,” I grunted, “that makes two of us.” I squeezed through a short flaring chimney, shredding my elbows and jacket. I wiggled deeper into the fissure, my feet knocking off more rock onto Brandon. Wedged securely in the chimney, I tapped overhead with my hammer, searching for a solid patch of stone to sink a bolt into. I tapped around until at last I heard that sweet, high-pitch sound that says “good rock, drill here.” I hoisted the drill overhead and pulled the trigger. Minutes later, nearly blind from the drill dust, I had a tolerable piece of protection between me and the ground. Four bolts in total now, and at least two more to go before the next belay stance. It was 2015 and we were on the first of 15 pitches of what would become War Hammer, a monster of a climb on Castle Mountain, in the Bow Valley in Banff National Park. Since this loose chimney of dross guarded the wall’s upper reaches, we dubbed it “The Moat.” It remains the most rotten band of stone I’ve ever climbed. The route took about six days spread over various years, climbing it in sections. We began in

MOUNT YAMNUSK A Blue Jeans Direct (5.14a, eight pitches). FA: Sonnie Trotter, October 2015. Trotter reclimbed the route in September 2017 as the last of The Trilogy. The original line, Blue Jeans, was equipped by local Nick Rochacewhich, and climbed by Derek Galloway in 2010 at 5.13b. Trotter added a harder variation on pitch five in 2015 . MOUNT LOUIS The Shining Uncut (5.14a, 13 pitches). FA: Sonnie Trotter, July 2017. "Uncut" is the name of the variation that eliminates two hanging belays that Trotter and Tommy Caldwell used in 2011. Running the pitches together created an 80-meter crux and bumped the route grade from 5.13c/d to 5.14a. CASTLE MOUNTAIN War Hammer (5.14a, 16 pitches). FA: Sonnie Trotter, August 2017. Various partners helped Trotter equip the route over two seasons beginning in 2013.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 43

Just in the nick of time, Trotter tops out the final pitch of Blue Jeans Direct, completing The Rocky Mountain Trilogy in 2017 before old man winter sets in for good.

M O U N T YA M N U S K A At the end of August in 2017 my beautiful wife had a baby. The pressure to complete the Trilogy ratcheted up. It was “Shit or get off the pot,” as they say. With a newborn and a 3-year-old toddler, I had no time for messing around. I bought some time when my wife’s sisters visited for a week to help and spend time with their adorable niece and nephew. I had to act fast. The final leg of The Trilogy was Blue Jeans Direct, a 700-foot, eight-pitch, 5.14a on the beautiful east end of Mount Yamnuska, about 30 minutes east of Canmore. The first five pitches of Blue Jeans are steep and powerful, but the climbing eases off considerably for the remaining three pitches. It would be the easiest climb of the Trilogy. Blue Jeans is the child of Nick Rochacewich. A beast of a man, born in Canada with Ukrainian blood surging through his veins, he initially tried bolting the route ground up, but after falling and nearly smashing his skull on the ground, he took the safer path and rap bolted. When he got to the most overhanging section, Nick wanted to establish a Comici line straight through it, but concluded that it was too difficult. He went left instead through a weakness in a shallow corner, creating one of the better hard multi-pitch free climbs in the Canadian Rockies at 5.13a/b. Local crusher Derek Galloway was the first one to redpoint the route, spending a few days on the climb

44 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

that would become a modern classic. Years later, Nick told me about the steep bulge at the top of the climb, and that it probably would yield a more difficult free variation. I went up to see if it was doable. My luck continued and much like the other two climbs, which are all 100-percent natural, this Blue Jeans Direct revealed just enough holds to connect the dots right up the belly of the whale. It’s a fine line indeed. I equipped it in the summer of 2015, and climbed it later that fall.

LINK AGE By now I had done all three mountain routes, two in 2017 and Blue Jeans Direct in 2015. To establish the Trilogy, I’d now have to repeat Blue Jeans Direct. This was going to be tough because it was September, and my wife’s family would only be visiting for a few more days. Once they left, it was Mister Mom for me. If I was to establish The Trilogy, I had to do it now. Dexter set aside both Saturday and Sunday to climb, but then I had to be away Saturday, and Dexter got college drunk on Friday night. We pushed the link-up to Sunday. It began raining Saturday night. All my work, all my dreaming, all

TIM BANEFIELD (BOHT PAGES)

2013, and the project took more than a few good men to complete. The climbing was technical, dynamic, and astonishingly exposed. In the end, the prow yielded another rope stretching 50-meter pitch at 5.14. In August 2017 I punched up the wall with Dexter, redpointing and linking all of the pitches. Brandon, who helped me build the route and endured the rockfall from The Moat, carried our shoes over to the hikers’ trail. Castle Mountain became one of my favorite places to climb in the whole world. If there were more routes to do up there, I’d go up again and again.

my planning, all my training were now riding on this one fleeting window. That night I woke every two hours to check the weather. By morning the clouds had cleared, and we were in business. Dexter showed up Sunday morning ready to rock in his vintage blue jeans and wool turtleneck sweater. We climbed smoothly for the first four pitches; everything felt sticky. The higher we climbed, the more the sun moved around the mountain, and as we arrived at the base of pitch five, the crux, we were in full shade. It felt as if someone had turned on a freezer. Crisp conditions for the 5.14 bulge. I mentally rehearsed the moves, kung fuing my hands in the air, and cast off with the determination of a soldier charging the enemy. Dexter cheered and braced in case I fell. I nailed the crux move, but the cold was too much and my fingers numbed out. I fell on the final hard sequence. I creased the air and slammed into the wall, yanking Dexter sideways. It was a good catch. He lowered me, the clock started ticking and questions flowed. I needed to rest, but if I rested too long I would get cold and go numb again. If I cast off too soon while I was still warm, I risked pumping out. Either way, I knew I had to succeed on the next go. I untied and pulled the rope while Dexter busted out classic rock from the 1970s, an era before his time, but one that suited him perfectly. While the soothing harmony of music rang off the cliff, I reflected on just how much I love being up there, the climbing is excellent of course, but the position alone was enough for me to love it. Up there there were no crowds, just ravens riding thermals, and miles and miles of rolling white peaks. What a gift it is to go climbing. I sent the pitch on my second attempt. I fought so hard my legs shook as I clipped the anchor. There was no moment of realization. It felt like just another day of climbing. Dexter had fun freeing much of the route on a toprope. He even brought a cigar for the summit. We descended the frigid mountain for home and the warmth of our cozy beds.

Trotter texting his wife of six years, Lydia Zamorano, to let her know he'll be home safely by dinner time.

When I got home, I kissed my wife and two sleeping kids good night. Many years down the road, when they have interests and passions of their own, I can bore them with stories of when daddy climbed all three of those peaks in a single summer. A meaningless achievement for most, but a glimpse into who their father and what makes him tick. Sonnie Trotter is one of Canada's leading climbers. He lives in Canmore with his wife and two kids.

WHERE WILL YOU CLIMB IN YOUR LOWAs?

EVEREST. BROAD PEAK.

GASHERBRUM II.

MAKALU. DHAULAGIRI. CHO OYU. IXTA. TORRES DEL PAINE. MANASLU. DENALI DIAMOND. GREENLAND. NANGA PARBAT. ACONCAGUA. GASHERBRUM I. ANNAPURNA.

SHISHAPANGMA. THE DOLOMITES. K2. LHOTSE. KANGCHENDZÖNGA. PICO DE ORIZABA. THE GRAND TETONS. DHAULAGIRI. MONT BLANC. RAINIER…

Since 1923, LOWAs have been essential gear for adventurers as they’ve explored this big, beautiful world. The versatile Alpine Pro GTX®, designed to take on diverse alpine conditions, is a case in point. It unites a minimalist, low profile design with super-stable, shock-absorbing construction. The result: Superb, close-to-the ground feel combined with LOWA’s legendary fit and comfort. It’s details like these that go into every LOWA, so that you can get the most out of your time in the mountains. Leave your footprint #LOWABOOTS

Alpine Pro GTX®

(your pix could be in our next ad....) GORE-TEX®, GTX®, GORE®, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY® and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. ©2018 LOWA Boots, LLC.

Croeso i Cymru W E L C O M E T O WA L E S BY HARRIET RIDLEY

High on the shaded flanks of Mount Snowdon, on the Great Wall of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, then 19-year-old James McHaffie balanced on a tiny edge 80-feet up the barely off-vertical Master’s Wall (E7 6b/5.12+ X). He was going for an onsight. He held a sidepull with his right hand and a tiny crystal spur in his left, alternating his position as efficiently as possible in his precarious stance. Rocking up and rocking down. Switching from his toes to the outside edges of his shoes. His fingertips were bleeding and his last piece of gear was a skyhook 30 feet below him. Not that it mattered, because McHaffie had untied and dropped his ropes over an hour ago. IFMGA mountain guide and long-time North Wales local Tim Neill traverses the bands of gritstone, 20 feet above the waves, on Path to Rome (E3 5c/5.11- PG13), at Cilan Head on the Lleyn Peninsula.

46 M A R C H 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

KRIS MCCOEY

R O C K A N D I C E â&#x20AC;¢ M A R C H 2 018 47

Sunlight breaks through the clouds to illuminate the slopes of the Llanberis Pass.

CROESO I CYMRU Croeso i Cymru, the sign reads: Welcome to Wales. The Welsh Dragon adorns the billboard on the side of the M62 motorway as you cross the otherwise unobvious border from England into Wales. Road signs for Canol y dref, Gwasanaethau and Ysbyty start to appear. The Anglicized equivalent is listed below each: Town Center, Services, Hospital. It takes some time to adjust in a country with two official languages, especially when one is as unfamiliar as Welsh. Wales is the second smallest of the four nations that make up the U.K., and the mountainous region of North Wales is smaller than the state of Delaware— not surprising when you figure the whole of the U.K. could fit comfortably into Colorado; however, North Wales is considerably less populated, wetter and more overrun by sheep than Delaware. In fact, the average population density is less than 250 people per square mile; annual rainfall can, in places, exceed 100 inches; and sheep roughly outnumber people four to one. Nevertheless, this oft-damp but charming rural scene is home to some of the best rock climbing in the U.K., and with many thousands of trad routes, winter climbs, sport lines and boulder problems on eight different rock types and in a range of landscapes from stunning sea cliffs to mountain cirques—all within a few hours drive, even to the most far-flung corners—it is likely one of the most diverse and high-density climbing areas in the world. “It used to be said that if you climb on all rocks in Wales, you develop the skills necessary to climb anywhere in the world,” wrote Stevie Haston, a raging force in climbing since the 1980s, in his U.K. Climbing article, “The Way of the Dervish.” Indeed, throughout history climbers who honed their skills on Welsh rock later made their mark around the world, Haston being a fine example. And there is no reason to consign this statement to the past tense, as development of routes and boulder problems of all grades on North Wales’ rock only continues. In this mountainous landscape with sea on most sides (except due south and east) rain is frequent, but rain shadows and quick-drying rock allow for climbing year round in all but the foulest weather. May and June are the best months, providing long days and generally the most settled weather, with enough heat to dry the shady mountain cliffs the area is famous for. 48 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, commonly known as Cloggy, is the dark heart of Welsh mountain climbing and the scene of many of the region’s most daring and epic tales. During dry and warm spells of summer weather, the crag buzzes with climbers seeking out historic moderate classics from Colin Kirkus, Jack Longland, Joe Brown and Don Whillans. For the talented and bold few, there are the legacy routes of men like John Redhead, Johnny Dawes and Jerry Moffatt. In the early 1980s, the outlandish Redhead, known for his eccentricity and nerve both on and off the rock, attempted to forge a line—ground-up and practically onsight— up the blank wall where Indian Face and Master’s Wall would later exist. He fell 80 feet, cartwheeling down the face and coming to a stop, upside-down, less than 10 feet above his belayer, Keith Robinson. With little hesitation, Redhead headed up the face a second time, where he found that a half-in number-one stopper had held his fall. He proceeded a little way above the point where he had fallen, and unable to down climb, ended up leaping for a toprope several feet away. Redhead returned to the cliff to place a 6mm bolt as mark of his high point and named the curtailed route Tormented Ejaculation (E8 7a/5.13+). Entertaining route names aside, bolts are not tolerated in Welsh mountain rock. In 1983, a 20-year-old Jerry Moffatt took particular umbrage at Redhead’s bolt and upon abseiling the face to inspect the holds, chopped it. He then proceeded to climb a line that veered slightly to the right: Master’s Wall. Three years later, Dawes would establish his most celebrated route, Indian Face (E9 6c/5.13- X), Britain’s first E9, which shares a start with Master’s but swings left before Redhead’s bolt scar. Dawes worked this route on toprope, opening the route to shoddy “sport climbing” tactics in the minds of die-hard trad climbers of the era, including Redhead. “People can go there and they can toprope it, and look at it, and inspect it, and preplace, and chalk it and practice, practice, practice: what the fuck!” said Redhead, speaking about subsequent ascents of Indian Face, of which there are few, on a Jam Crack Podcast hosted by Niall Grimes in September 2016. “This is meant to be a trad climb. This is the way it’s gone … to me, that’s sports climbing.” Nearly two decades later, the mentality of hard on-sight trad was still strong in British climbing, and this was how, in the summer of 2000, 19-yearold James “Caff” McHaffie found himself halfway

JOHN BUNNEY

THE DARK HEART

RAY WOOD (BOTH)

up Master’s Wall, unable to down climb and unwilling to proceed. “People who rap and checked out and headpointed [toproping before leading], it was just not the scene in my mind,” said Caff in an interview with Wil Treasure for Factor Two, a U.K. Climbing podcast. “Onsight was everything. Everything else was cheating.” This wa s the f irst time Ca f f or his partner that day, Adam Wilde, had visited Cloggy. Despite his tender age Caff was an accomplished onsight climber, and had recently onsighted Redhead’s terrifyingly serious The Bells! The Bells! (E7 6b/5.12c X) on the infamous sea cliffs of Gogarth, as well as a number of E7s in the Lake District. He was also in the habit of soloing multi-pitch 5.11s. Caff spent an hour and a half on the wall, figuring out sequences and searching for pro. He had strayed from Moffatt’s line, pulling through committing and irreversible moves until—in an echo of Redhead’s attempt nearly two decades prior—he became stuck. After 30 minutes of deliberation Caff untied and dropped the ropes, hoping Wilde could find a way around to the top of the cliff to drop him a safety line. Caff threw off his rack to save weight and proceeded to wait for rescue in his desperately insecure stance. But Wilde, unacquainted with the cliff and

The East Buttress of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, on the northern flanks of Mount Snowdon. The blank central section, known as the Great Wall, is home to outrageously bold routes, such as Johnny Dawes’ Indian Face and Jerry Moffatt’s Master’s Wall. RIGHT: Sean Villaneuva O’Driscoll takes on the exposed arête of The Axe (E4 6a/5.11c), at Clogwyn Du’r Arddu. Photo taken during the 2016 British Mountaineering Council International Meet.

panicking for his partner could not find his way. After another hour Caff was screaming in agony and desperation. He was bleeding from almost every fingertip and couldn’t feel his toes. “[My] strong ethic of onsight climbing went out of the window,” said Caff, in the Factor Two podcast. “I thought, ‘I am going to die.’” Two hours after untying, Wilde managed to lower the ropes to the frantic Caff, and with a 50-foot swing and a rough bounce, Caff made it down to the ground. “We left all the kit and fucked off,” says Caff. “[I] couldn’t feel my toes for weeks and didn’t think I’d climb again.” F E B R UA R Y 2 018 49

James McHaffie on the prominent groove pitch of Johnny Dawes’ 1986 four-pitch slate masterpiece The Quarryman (E8 7a/5.13b R), in Twll Mawr, meaning Big Hole in Welsh, in the Dinorwig slate quarry.

FIVE YEARS ON THE DOLE The history of climbing in North Wales is deep and tangible. Stories seep through generations, immersing the small area and tight-knit community such that the characters remain real and vivid. In the 1950s and 1960s, visionary working-class climbers like Joe Brown—who still lives in the area—and Don Whillans began to bend the class norms associated with climbing, which until then was dominated by an affluent upper class. They developed the mountain cliffs and coastal crags, protecting hard 5.10 leads with, slings, pebbles and machine nuts and using body belays and wearing boots to attain a free climbing standard that was likely unmatched at the time anywhere else in the world. Brown refused to place more than two pegs per pitch to preserve the rock, and these ethics have trickled through the decades as a stout prejudice against bolts on trad climbs. Seeking an alternative to pegs, Brown developed the first generation of commercially available nuts. In the mid 1960s, Royal Robbins purchased his first set of climbing nuts from Brown after being convinced of their worth as a supplement to pitons. In May of 1967, Robbins published an article in Summit magazine titled “Nuts to You,” extolling the virtues of nuts over pitons to a then-unfamiliar American audience. Few crags in North Wales do not host at least one Brown and Whillans route, and their names are often synonymous with the best routes in the region. The generation that followed was dominated by men like Rowland Edwards and Al Harris, among others, who left a great legacy of test pieces on many of North Wales’s steepest cliffs, developing routes that still had occasional points of aid and thus paving the way for the all-out free climbing revolution that was to develop in the 1970s. Then the national social standing took an irreversible turn, and climbers seised the opportunity to push British climbing to all new heights. By the early 1980s, under a Conservative government led by the uncompromising Margaret Thatcher, a nationwide economic crisis existed. By 1983 over 3 million working-class men and women found themselves unemployed and with no future job prospects; they were collectively known as Maggie’s Millions. Many of the communities most affected were mining and milling towns in Northern England and Wales. Anyone who was eligible was encouraged to sign on for unemployment benefits, known as the dole, and suddenly, for the first time in modern history, working-class individuals were free to follow their interests. Unemployed climbers signed on for their allocated £16 (approximately $22) per week and flocked to North Wales to unleash their imaginations on the crags and quarries in a frenzied and highly competitive climbing culture. Living on impossibly minimal allowances, sleeping in caves and on dirty mattresses, the first generation of the full-time dirtbag climber was born, and the number of routes and the standard of climbing skyrocketed. Moffatt, self-proclaimed “best climber in the world” in the 1980s, spent over five years on the dole and writes in his book Revelations that he fed himself on 70 pence a day. 50 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

At first glance the twopart British grading system may seem mysterious to those unacquainted with it, but when understood it very effectively describes the nature of a route. In simplest terms the adjective grade, which moves from Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe to E1, E2, etc., is used as an indicator of the seriousness of the route, and takes into account a number of factors like exposure, protectability, strenuousness and rock quality, while the technical grade, ranging from 4a up to 7b, denotes the hardest moves on the routes. (Note that the technical scale is not the same as French sport grades.) Technically harder climbs usually have a more serious adjective grade; however, there is a considerable amount of wiggle room—particularly in the higher grades—and, as ever with climbing, a degree of subjectivity. Nevertheless, these two grades can be used to effectively describe the main challenges of a route. It is sometimes argued that British trad grades are only applicable to onsight ascents, with old-school traditionalists reasoning that headpointing or practicing a route significantly reduces the adjective grade. It has even been proposed that headpointed routes should receive a sport grade. However, this is a debate better left for the pub.

JETHRO KIERNAN

THE E GRADING SYSTE M EXPLAINED

RAY WOOD, TIM NEILL

COME ON ARMS DO YOUR STUFF! Much of the climbing in North Wales is found in or around Snowdonia National Park; a modest 823-square-mile protected area of glacier-carved mountains, lakes, forests, and assorted rock. Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, is one of the top 10 most trafficked mountains in the world. Quite a statistic, but somewhat easier to comprehend when you learn it’s only 3,560 feet high with an option to take a steam train from the village of Llanberis, at the base, to the café at the top. Llanberis, the climbing hub of North Wales, is an eclectic mixture of old North Walean families and devoted outdoor enthusiasts. Llanberis is not an idyllic mountain village, rather an unpolished remnant of industrial Britain, but the brightly colored houses and shops lining the main street are a jovial indicator of the vibrancy of the community. The royal blue building with yellow trim is Pete’s Eats, the local greasy spoon. Pete’s opened in 1978 and has remained central to the climbing scene ever since—probably because you can buy pint-size mugs of tea. Climbers use Pete’s both as a meeting point and a refuge to wait out the rain. Next to the counter is the New Routes Book, in which first ascentionists handwrite descriptions of their new achievement in the area, traditionally complete with derisive carton illustrations, accounts of personal feuds, and humorous descriptions of the route. Of Nighty Night (graded XS to denote loose and dangerous rock) at Cilan Head on the Lleyn Peninsula, the first ascentionist has written, “Ingenuity needed to belay, (and to make it this far),” while another climber wrote of The Porcelain Arena (E6 6b/5.12+ R) at Gogarth, “Pitch 2: Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall.” The versions of these almost canonical texts date back over 30 years and span more than 20 volumes. The Llanberis Pass guides the A4086 main road from the village up and over the Peny-Pass, a col in the ridgeline separating the Snowdon Massif and the Glyderau mountains. Crags tower like ancient castles on either side of the road: the lumpy rhyolite faces of Clogwyn y Grochan and Carreg Wastad; the dark presence of Dinas Mot; the clandestine facets of Cryn Las tucked away in shadow; and seated high and proud on the valley side, Dinas Cromlech. The “open-book” corner of the Cromlech

Tom Livingston on Ron Fawcett’s technical and sustained face climb Lord of the Flies, on the right-hand wall of Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. LOWER: In the late summer afternoon light Dave Rudkin tackles the overlaps and bulges of Spectrum (E2 5c/5.10+) on Clogwyn y Grochan in Llanberis Pass.

is the most iconic section of rock in North Wales. Climbers from around the world head there to throw themselves at bonafide classics like Lord of the Flies (E6 6a/5.11+ R), Left Wall (E2 5c/5.10), Right Wall (E5 6a/5.11+ PG13/R) and Cemetery Gates (E1 5b/5.10-). The first ascent of Lord of the Flies in 1979 by the world-renowned Ron Fawcett was filmed for the BBC’s Rock Athlete series. The route weaves a bold line up the sparsely featured right-hand wall of the Cromlech, and is the epitome of hard 1970s and 1980s Welsh climbing, requiring boldness, fitness and technique. Lord has foiled many, forcing huge falls or tentative retreats off skyhooks. It has earned the route a reputation worthy of Fawcett’s first ascent, during which the notoriously strong Yorkshireman, F E B R UA R Y 2 018 51

View of Dinas Cromlech and the “open-book” of Cenotaph Corner. RIGHT: Tom Livingston tests his mettle on the sustained headwall of Strawberries, at Tremadog, considered the hardest climb in the country upon its establishment in 1980.

52 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

TREMADOG A 45-minute drive southwest of Llanberis brings you to the thriving village of Tremadog. Just beyond are the towering roadside crags of Craig Bwlch y Moch. Lying in a rain shadow, Tremadog can offer year-round climbing when the weather in the mountains is unforgiving. Notorious for hard-for-the-grade routes, crafted on often steep and intimidating diorite, this is where many of North Wales’ great climbers cut their teeth. In the 1970s and early 1980s it hosted some of hardest routes in the country, and it is still home to some of the most sought-after E-grade climbing in the whole of the U.K. From the road, the majority of the cliff is obscured by summer foliage. Even on the short, steep approach, you never get a good look at the routes. It’s a jungle, of sorts. Light filters through the trees, and the calls of other climbers and the clink of gear echo around the crag. At the shaded base, the dark grey crag towers dauntingly. Sound is muffled and the location seems private, despite the other parties and proximity of the road. Between two and four pitches will bring you out of the shadow of the trees and onto the top of crag. Here the landscape opens out before you. Beyond the road immediately below, the flat coastal farmland—fields divided by the grey strands of dry-stonewalling—spreads all the way to Cardigan Bay in the south and to the Lleyn Peninsula in the West. Looking down along the road you can see the Climbers’ Café and Bunkhouse, owned by

RAY WOOD (BOTH)

sporting his customary mustache and skimpy running shorts, was caught on camera moving into a wild and unprotected crux sequence shouting: “Come on arms, do your stuff!” The Cromlech routes are milestones for any climber, but the most important for me was always Joe Brown’s early masterpiece, Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c/5.10). My grandmother is from North Wales and I visited often as a child. Every time my family drove down the Llanberis Pass, my father would point out the Corner, always with unwavering enthusiasm and reverence, and every time I would crane my neck to see out of the car window, gazing up into drizzle that frequents the Welsh countryside to catch a glimpse of the immaculately cleaved corner. “Cenotaph Corner,” my father would say, leaning in conspiratorially. “Two rock faces, standing open like a book.” He held his hands open against each other, a replication of the vertical corner. “You stem up middle of the two. It’s a very famous route, very hard though. It gets E1.” Two decades later, I stood at the bottom of Cenotaph Corner. Deep in the arms of the crag, the dark ryolitic faces stretching up and away behind me, I gazed up at the inconsistent 120-foot corner crack before me, and imagined an 18-year-old Brown hammering in pegs for protection during his first attempt, in December 1948. When Brown returned and made the first ascent in 1952 the Corner was wet; he wore socks over his boots for improved friction. As I stemmed on small crimps and fiddled wires into the well-worn tapering cracks, I praised the sharp edges and downturned last of my climbing shoes. The antics of those early pioneers are almost beyond our comprehension. The crux of Cenotaph Corner is right at the top, marked by an ancient peg that is used—all too frequently—as a point of aid. I pulled through the slightly overhanging final section and scrambled up to the tree marking the belay, smiling in elation for a photo to show my father. My ascent was much more than a personal success; I now felt part of history. Professional alpinist Nick Bullock, who has lived in North Wales for over a decade, felt the same way when he first climbed Brown’s route: “The history and the situation were almost overwhelming,” says Bullock, “the physical act of climbing secondary!” One will find this is the case for many North Wales climbs: the grade is almost irrelevant; the history is paramount.

MIKE ROBERTSON

the legendary Eric Jones, where it’s customary to grab a cup of tea and a toasted sandwich between routes. Jones has owned the climber-orientated establishment for 37 years. Unless you recognized the young man in the adventure photos adorning the café walls you’d likely never guess that this Welsh octogenarian was the country’s first, and likely most accomplished, soloist, skydiver and BASE-jumper, with numerous records to his name, including the first British solo of the North Face of the Eiger in 1981—which he did in a long weekend without telling his future wife and girlfriend at the time, Anne—and the first BASE-jump off the Eiger in 1986, age 51. From the café you can see the headwall of Vector Buttress. South facing and close to the sea, this buttress is often the first and last entry on the climbing calendar for many. Vector (E2 5c/5.10+), put up in 1960 by a bold Brown and Claude Davies, was considered revolutionary upon its establishment, and is the perfect embodiment of Tremadog climbing: steep and involved, demanding both delicate technique and bursts of power. Today, the route’s signature second pitch, which involves brave moves across the Ochre Slab into a groove before clawing your way up to a stance belay in a cave, is chalky from heavy traffic, but Vector remains the most sought-after route on the crag. Cream (E4 6a/5.11+), established by the late, great Pete Livesey and his prodigy Fawcett in 1976, shares a first pitch with Vector before branching off for three pitches of sustained climbing, cumulating in a final charge up an exposed crack on the route’s headwall. Strawberries (E7 6b/5.13a PG13), the rarely conquered technical pinnacle of Tremadog follows the more severe headwall crack to the left of Cream. With cruxes at the bottom and the top of the pitch, this route is rarely onsighted. Fawcett established the line in 1980 and described the route—in his biography Rock Athlete—as akin to hard 5.12s in Yosemite, with the rock being smoother than the more textured rock typical of Tremadog. Fawcett stepped up to the challenge of Strawberries after learning Redhead was working the line. Knowing this route would be a landmark in British climbing Fawcett switched gears and sent it in three days. He originally graded the route E5 7a/5.12+, and it was considered the hardest climb in the country. While Tremmadog is well-known for its extreme routes, it also offers more moderate climbs of excellent quality, and beginners and intermediates can enjoy the air of adventure provided by this historical roadside crag. One Step in the Clouds (VS 4c/5.8) —possibly the most popular moderate climb at Tremadog—offers a taste of Tremadog exposure; Christmas Curry (S 4a/5.7) takes the easiest line up Plum Butress; Grim Wall (VS 4c/5.8) is an extremely popular twopitch classic and Merlin Direct (HVS 5a/5.9) is another two-pitch wonder with a well-loved, airy top pitch.

Joe Brown’s classic Vector (E2 5c/5.10+) is one of the most sought-after routes at Tremadog. North Wales local Libby Peter, one of the few British women to have qualified as an IFMGA mountain guide, moves into the groove on the highly trafficked signature second pitch.

F E B R UA R Y 2 018 53

A NETHERWORLD O F S H AT T E R E D S T O N E

54 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

The Rainbow Slab, located behind the Dinorwig power station, is named for the unique ripple that arches across its otherwise blank face. Here Calum Muskett tracks along the ripple feature on The Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6 6b/5.12a R), a bold route with huge pendulum potential that makes it just as scary on second. RIGHT: James McHaffie on the first pitch of Coeur de Lion (E8 7a/5.13+ R) during the second ascent of the route with Pete Robbins. This Dawes route in Twll Mawr waited 28 years for a repeat.

RAY WOOD (BOTH)

Across the lake from Llanberis the 700-acre Dinorwic slate quarry looms. It is Mordor, a netherworld of shattered stone. Towering steps, tens of feet high, mark the levels of quarrying progression into the mountainside. Huge heaps of discarded slate and cavernous pits dictate where you can and cannot venture. Abandoned mining equipment and ruined slate buildings, empty but for the odd reel of twisted cable, haunt the landscape. Narrow unlit tunnels connect the cavernous pits, and beneath you the mountain hums, a result of a hydroelectric station deep in the mountainside. For centuries North Wales was the slate quarrying capital of the world, and at the industry peak in 1890 Dinorwic quarry employed 3,000 men and shipped the sought-after sheets of iridescent purple-grey stone across the globe. The quarrymen lived and worked on the mountainside until 1969, when the Dinorwic quarry closed after many decades of downscaling and strikes. In the following decades, climbers ventured into their depths and crafted seemingly impossible lines up the blank quarry walls, introducing a wholly new climbing craze to the region. Slate climbing is a facet of climbing totally exclusive to North Wales. The quick-drying rock is beautiful, with shades of grey, purple, green and speckles of burnt orange, but it is also binary. A hold is either there, or it isn’t; there are no intermediates, and smearing is often simply not an option on the perfectly smooth stone. The uncompromising slate routes, of which there are hundreds, call for immense finger strength, agile movement, long reaches and extreme highsteps onto mere scrapes of footholds—using a hand to help lift your foot onto a high placement is common and tight shoes with good edges are essential. Climbers have to employ continuous full-body tension and be able to turn power on suddenly, without compromising technique and balance. The slate quarries saw a burst of development in the 1980s, complete with garish lycra tights and a Sex Pistols-esque anti-establishment attitude. The sweeping slabs of slate are particularly difficult to protect with natural pro and so a sparing mode-du-jour bolting ethic emerged in the quarries—a result of poverty amongst the dole-supported first ascentionists who could not afford to place many bolts per route and in tribute to Brown’s “two pegs per pitch” policy. As such, a strong mental game is required to deal with the exorbitant runouts that often characterize slate routes. For example, on Redhead’s Raped by Affection (E7 6c/5.12d X) you venture 70 feet to find shoddy pro (a potentially useless #2 RP) before a bolt protecting the crux at 80 feet. Dawes also brought his boldness to the slate quarries with Dawes of Perception (E7 6c/15.12d X), protected by only a single bolt at 80 feet. A more protectable slate classic, and the route largely responsible for launching the slate revolution, is the work of Haston. Comes the Dervish (E3 5c/5.11a PG13), put up in 1981, follows a thin seam up through an overlap and is well protected—if you can get through the first 25 feet—and is one of the most famous and sought-after E3s in the country. Haston notoriously cleaned this route using a knife and fork that he borrowed from Pete’s Eats. “In American it was about 5.11d or 5.12a on the first ascent and on micro wires,” says Haston, “It settled down fairly quickly as the crack was cleaned out more. I get my hand shaken and get bought drinks for this route all over the world—it was worth 10 minutes cleaning.”

R O C K A N D I C E â&#x20AC;¢ M A R C H 2 018 55

COME RAIN OR SHINE

56 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

CREDIT

Angus Kille feels the buzz soloing Electric Blue (E4 5c/5.11-), a trad line that can also be climbed as a deep water solo, at Sea Cave Zawn, Rhoscolyn, Angelsey. The powerhouse Stevie Haston made the first ascent in 1983. RIGHT: Ollie Cain on Hang ‘em High (7a/ V6) at Porth Nefoedd, a picturesque bouldering area on the Lleyn Peninsula.

JOHN BUNNEY, JETHRO KIERNAN, RAY WOOD (UPPER RIGHT)

Under an hour from Llanberis on the North Wales coast is the Great Orme, a limestone headland at the tip of a peninsula jutting out into the Irish Sea, just outside the Victorian seaside town of Llandudno. Lying beyond the reaches of Snowdonia National Park, the Orme provides sanctuary from the austere mountain weather and hosts climbing year round, from roadside trad and sport in the summer to winter bouldering in Parisella’s Cave. The bulging tidal crag of Lower Pen Trwyn, which is reached by jumping a stone wall and traversing the boulder-strewn beach, is the pinnacle of Welsh sport climbing, and routes here revolutionized the sport in Britain. Milestones include Ben Moon’s 70 foot, relentlessly overhanging Statement of Youth (8a/5.13b), put up in 1984, and which involves overhead heel-hooks, powerful throws and intricate traverses on undercut pockets and poor feet; Jerry Moffatt’s 1990 power endurance masterpiece Liquid Ambar (8c+/5.14c), which has seen only a handful of ascents, and Neil Carson’s 1995 offering The Big Bang, the U.K.’s first 9a (5.14d), which went unrepeated for 15 years, until Caff put his mind to it. More moderate benchmarks include Under the Boardwalk (6c/5.11b), the stiffly graded Night Glue (7a+/5.12a) and the vertical Face Race (7a+/512a). Alternatively, Gogarth, the collective term for the quartzite cliffs and zawns nestled between and around North and South Stack lighthouses on the Isle of Anglesey, which lies a bridge-length off the northwest mainland, is well-known for having its own microclimate and providing an excellent option when the mountains clouds are threatening. Celebrated for its adventurous climbing and committing tidal setting, Gogarth is the hearthrob of many U.K. climbers. The rock here is impossibly bright compared to the mountains or the slate, and it startles against the glowing sea surging beneath routes of all angles, grades and styles. Audiences of bobbing seals are common and on a clear day Ireland is faint on the horizon. Development began in the 1960s but Gogarth earned nationwide status in 1966, when Joe Brown, Ian McNaught-Davis, Royal Robbins and Tom Patey made the first ascent of Television Route (E4 5c/5.11-) on Red Walls live for a TV show called Cliffhangers. Gogarth is also the location for some astounding and dangerous ascents in North Wales climbing history, with most routes being developed by some of Britain’s most celebrated climbers in a ground-up style that verged on madness back when racks were bare and boldness was in vogue. Redhead’s X-rated The Bells! The Bells! on the blank North Stack Wall was the most serious climb in Wales for many years after its establishment in 1980, given its minimal protection and technical climbing on typically insecure Gogarth rock. While Gogarth calls for competency and experience due to its setting and the nature of the rock, there are as many amenable classics as there are bold and dangerous testpieces. More judicious routes include the geologically astonishing Mousetrap (E2 5a/5.10) with its heavily folded rock bands; the straight but unrelenting off-vertical crack of The Strand (E2 5b/5.10+), and the poetically named world-class traverse A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c /5.9), established by the literary climbing genius Ed Drummond and partner Dave Pearce in 1968.

The Assassin (E3 5c/5.11a) at Main Cliff, Gogarth, climbed here by Lee Robert, requires an adventurous sea-level traverse to reach its base.

CREDIT

The North Wales climbing community as a whole, possibly due to a skewed British idea of “good weather,” is exceptionally driven to get outside year-round, with opportunistic climbers taking any chance to play on rock. Areas like the Great Orme, Gogarth and the Lleyn Peninsula all facilitate this outdoor drive, and when Llanberis climbers are asked why they choose to live in North Wales, the most common response is for the density and diversity of climbing, and because climbing can almost always be reached within an hour’s drive, regardless of the weather. While North Wales may seem diminutive geographically, its climbing history, lore, and quality earn it a place among the great destinations. It offers a lifetime of exploration to any climber, from boulderers to traditionalists and from the cautious to the bold. While still considered the acme of style, onsight climbing is perhaps not pursued as fanatically as it once was. Even Caff, who has the most impressive onsight resume of this generation, with over 30 onsight ascents in the E7/E8 range, has experienced a waning of his predeliction for the bold. He returned to Cloggy in 2013, older and wiser, and climbed Indian Face after attempting the crux moves on toprope. Upon reflection he wondered whether such a dangerous climb was worth the risk: “[My] partner had pointed out how nice the roses looked in [our] garden that very morning,” writes Caff in his U.K. Climbing article “Return to Indian Face”: “a sharp contrast to risking your life for one climb put up by a near madman in the 80s.” Yet the madmen, the traditions, the quirky characters and their stories are what makes North Wales climbing so rich and colorful; a place where every ascent is a tribute to what has come before. Harriet Ridley lived in North Wales for several years before moving to Colorado where she is Editorial Fellow at Rock and Ice. F E B R UA R Y 2 018 57

FIELD TESTED 50 DAYS

PITCH ES

PROS Keep hands warm while belaying. Water resistant, windproof. Dexterous. CONS Costly. Heating element extends up fingers but not to tips. Low setting is tepid.

PROS Superlight, holds a block of chalk. Minimalist corded waist belt makes repositioning the bag very easy. CONS: Costs $5 to $10 more than heavier bags. Dumps easily on breezy days.

Black Diamond Ultralight

$29.95 / WWW.BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM They say the hardest place to lose weight is around your waist, but the BD Ultralight chalk bag is the exception. Buckle it on, and boom, you just shed one to three ounces and didn’t have to do a single sit up. There really isn’t much to say about a bag that holds chalk, but the Ultralight is word worthy not just because it weighs less than the block of chalk it holds, but because its unique thin-cord waist belt lets you quickly slide the bag to the side or front to get it out of the way, and because the bag is light without being tiny. My hands (size medium) never had a problem getting in or out. The problem, or perhaps “minor issue” is more accurate, is that the bag is so light a wisp of a breeze can dump it. On windy days I had to put a rock in the bag to hold it down. —Duane Raleigh

StormTracker Heated Gloves

$265 / WWW.OUTDOORRESEARCH.COM

58 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

—Alison Osius

GSI Glacier 1 Liter Bottle

The StormTracker heated gloves, made for all-around winter use, from skiing to ice climbing to bike riding, also beckon to the many of us (often women) who have poor circulation and struggle to rock climb with wooden fingers even in cool temps. The gloves use a rechargeable lithium battery pack to create heat, which extends up the back of the hand to the first finger joint. A color-coded button sets heat at low, medium or high. I’d love to use high all the time, but must be strategic, or the batteries would conk out after two and a half hours. You could buy and bring extra batteries ($50), but by setting-hopping I can extend the heat to around five hours—about a winter-cragging day out for me. The touchscreen is stonker, so you don’t have to remove a glove to change settings, and the elements heat up quickly. Lined and with soft shells and goat-leather palms, the gloves are warm even turned off, and dexterous enough for ropework. To me, the gloves are born to belay. In cold weather, even if I can get warm on one route, by the next climb I’m freezing from standing and belaying. Now I can actually keep my hands warm on belay duty. When changing over to climb, I don’t start out at an automatic deficit, and that’s rad. Last year I was so fed up I was ready to give up even trying to climb in the cold. This season I am rallying anew. I also plan to bring the StormTrackers to cliffs or boulders in shoulder season or just iffy weather.

50 D A

$34.95 / WWW.GSIOUTDOORS.COM

PROS Keeps drinks hot or cold all day, even overnight. Screw-off insulated mug. Four sizes: 17 oz., 24 oz., half liter, liter. CONS: Liter bottle weighs 23.5 oz.

Having a piping-hot drink outside in winter or an icy cold beverage in the summer is a luxury, a mood lifter. I’m not going to claim that the GSI Glacier bottle will improve your climbing, but I will say that it brings you good cheer. This stainless-steel thermos keeps drinks hot or cold all day. Last summer it even had ice left over from 24 hours earlier. In winter when I filled the bottle with boiling tea, I actually had to let it cool in the rubber-coated screw-off mug before I could drink it. A fine trick: crunch up a pack of Ramen noodles, add the chemical/flavor pack and boiling water. The noodles will cook in the bottle. Out at the ice climb or cold crag you’ll have a hot meal with carbs and a hot drink with electrolites all in one swig. Disadvantages? The one-liter version is heavy at 23.5 ounces empty. I still carried it, always. If weight is an overriding concern, the bottle is available in lighter, if smaller, versions from 17-ounce capacity to half liter. —DR

TRAINING

BY NEIL GRESHAM

Methods Practice regularly—say, two or three times a week—and only train when you feel recovered and fresh, such as after warming up at the beginning of a session. Always warm up before any of these! BOULDERING Spend the first half an hour of the session working on one or two projects that feature mainly pinches and rounded holds. Rest for 10 or 15 minutes, and move on to one of the following exercises (on pinch balls or blocks), but never spend more than 45 minutes total on only pinches.

CRUSH IT!

Improve your pinch strength Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore … until you need it, like I did trying to climb a new 8c+ at Malham last year. The top bulge featured a hideously flared open-handed horror-pinch that stopped me in my tracks … until I went away and trained specifically. The next year I returned to finish the job. While elite boulderers seem to be able to crush the most marginal sloping features, many sport and trad climbers lag behind in this respect, and favor routes and problems with incut holds. With sloper strength and pinch strength linked, since most slopers require use of the thumb, many climbers are weak in both. Conversely, training in either improves the other. Unfortunately, few hangboards cater effectively to pinches, but the good news is that more and more gyms are offering large slopers and volumes, the kind used in World Cup coursesetting. An array of additional exercises and some simple and inexpensive training devices will enable you to practice at home or at work, when you should be doing something more responsible with your time. Start your program with a pinch-strength diagnosis. Check your abilities and weaknesses with these steps. Wide, medium or narrow? Assess your pinch strength on all three options, as you may be better at one or the other. Use pinch blocks, deadhang rigs, or some of the set-ups described below. It’s hard to quantify this process precisely,

60 F EB RUA RY 2 018 • IS S U E 24 8

but you should get a sense of when one size feels notably tougher than another. Deep or shallow? Similarly, as soon as you start experimenting, it will probably become clear if you are better at pinches that only reach the first finger joint, or those covering the full depth of your fingers. Thumb or finger strength? Clearly, the thumb is the dealmaker for most pinches. Some climbers will naturally have strong thumbs, and some will have strong (or weaker) fingers. Linking with the above assessments, you can attempt a more in-depth analysis of finger strength to determine which grips may be inhibiting your pinch strength: • Dragging with fingers straight: for large, wide, slopey pinches. • Half-crimp/chisel: for medium-width or narrow pinches. • Little-finger strength: the pinky plays a key stabilizing role in pinching. Next, these other aspects of body strength may come into play: • Wrist strength: a major component for using pinches on vertical and gently overhanging walls (when the wrists are often bent). • Strong core and shoulders: while these muscles lie further down the chain and are not specifically involved in gripping, you are likely to have trouble using pinches—especially on overhangs—if your core or arms are weak.

SYSTEM TRAINING System boards are steep woodies with holds grouped into themes and arranged in symmetrical ladder tracks for structured training on specific moves or grips. Make the first objective of the session to spend time on pinches. Intermediate climbers might spend up to 30 minutes and elites 45 minutes on them before moving on to the next type of grip or move. Use a weight belt to calibrate the intensity, and try holding static positions as well as moving dynamically. If your board lends itself, try several different types of pinches within the given time frame, seeking variety in: • HOLD WIDTH: narrow, medium, wide. • HOLD DEPTH: one, two or three phalanges (digits). • HOLD ORIENTATION: diagonal or vertical. • HOLD SHAPE/POSITIVITY: rounded/sloping or angular/incut. • HOLD SPACING: narrow or medium (widely positioned holds may work compression strength more than pinch strength). CAMPUS BOARDS Modern campus boards often feature ladder tracks of half-round balls, to use either as slopers or pinches if you turn your wrists slightly. Some boards may also have pure pinches, which lack tops and force you to use your thumb and squeeze. The basic laddering exercise will be most effective and practical (it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to do double dynos or anything else too crazy). See the protocol given for campus boarding (see Campus Board Training, rockandice. com), but your essential plan should be to go for two to six moves/reps, and take

TRAINING

two minutes rest between sets, with elites doing six to eight sets per grip and intermediates doing three to six sets. HANGBOARDS / DEADHANGING Very few hangboards address pinch training well, and there is much debate about whether deadhanging is a safe and effective method. Drawbacks include that most deadhang setups will allow you to compress (squeeze your hands toward each other), which will mean not engaging your thumb effectively. On diagonal pinches, friction from the little finger can reduce the desired loading on the thumb. Another concern is that vertically oriented pinches may involve a risk of injury: De Quervain syndrome may be caused by overuse of the thumb when the wrist is bent acutely. You may resolve this issue by creating a specific deadhanging rig that enables you to pinch without flexing the wrist, such as by using wooden pinch blocks screwed into the underside of a beam or pinching the beam itself. Aim for a selection of different sizes (wide, medium and narrow), and position the holds closely (with spaces slightly narrower than shoulder width between them), or you may end up compressing rather than pinching. Calibrate the exercises to hit failure between five and 10 seconds, and rest two minutes between sets, with elites doing six to eight sets per grip and intermediates doing three to six. Note that while these types of setups allow you to train the thumb and fingers effectively, you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be training the wrist, so perform separate sets of wrist curls, with the forearm on its side and thumb pointing upward. PINCH BALLS To eliminate the compression element from deadhanging on pinches, string up some pinch balls, which will simply wobble if you try to squeeze! These rigs are portable and can also be good for general pull-up training. The only snag when pinch training is that it always feels tempting to cheat and use too much assistance from the tops, so give

PROVEN. TRUSTED. BOMBER.

yourself only minimal help. Wood devices are kinder on the skin, but resin can also be worthwhile. Use the protocol for reps and sets given for deadhanging. Diameters vary from 3 to 5 inches, and various commercial brands are available, from Metolius, Atomik, Lapis, Sports Supplies, and Escape. PINCH BLOCKS These rigs are highly recommended for fixing a weakness in thumb strength. There are various mutations, most of which involve parallel-sided or sloping wooden blocks that are drilled out and threaded with cord attached to a weight. Most designs are fairly portable for on-the-go training (you can attach them to a heavy bag if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have access to weights). Heavy rocks with sloping tops or large weights may fulfill the same purpose, if a little crudely. Use the guidelines for reps and sets given for deadhanging. CLASPERS Developed by Adam Ondra in collaboration with the Czech

company A Muerte for specialized pinch training, Claspers are hanging training plates to use when traveling or as a complement to hangboards. You can choose from four claspwidths and two types of surface, high or low friction. The adjustability allows you to train specific weaknesses or for fully versatile pinch strength. The British all-arounder Neil Gresham has climbed 8c+, trad E10 (5.14X) and WI 7. He has been coaching and writing about training since 1993. See his book Training, How to Climb, from Rock and Ice at your local retailer or gym.

F EB RUA RY 2 018 61

CLIMBTECH TOP ANCHOR HOOK High resistance to wear due to hardened steel, dark zinc plating makes for better camouflage on the rock and a rated wire gate make this an ideal change from steel carabiners or mussy hooks for top anchors.

VISIT CLIMBTECHGEAR.COM

MEDICAL ADVICE

BY DR. JULIAN SAUNDERS

IAL SPEC W ELBOLTH HEA TION SEC

The human elbow is a complex piece of engineering that allows elbow flexion and forearm rotation. Many of the forearm muscles control multiple joints. It’s no wonder that elbow troubles rare common among climbers.

New Problem, Old Elbow QUESTION

Ah, the intractable vice of age, doing its thing until there is no space left to live. That said, either the surgeon is losing the plot or you have only given me fragments of disparate information. Medicine is often Monet in appearance, a little blurry, but the picture you paint is more like Salvador Dali in that it makes only a little sense. There is no reason for the joint to be injected with cortisone if the primary issue is a tendon tear. In fact, there is no reason to inject the tendon in the first place, though injections are too often undertaken, misguided as they are. I wonder if you are alluding to joint degeneration, in which case the doctor may float the idea of an intra-articular cortisone injection. That would buy some pain-free(er) time for several months, but is otherwise largely pointless. Although being an “older climber” does not necessarily lead to elbow issues per se, you are, in more general terms, gallivanting down a path of reduced anatomical returns when it comes to training and healing. You could spend much time trying to slow that decline, or you could just relax and try to enjoy yourself. If the medial elbow pain you mention is indeed a recalcitrant tendon tear then you have options. First and foremost is exercise rehab. Read “Dodgy Elbows Revisited” on my website www.drjuliansaunders.com for some direction with this. Bear in mind that, as you get older, tendons take longer to heal. What would take a 20-year-old a few weeks to recover from may take you a few months or longer. Surgery is an option, but not before exhausting a more conservative rehab approach. All injectable interventions, from PRP to prolotherapy, will appeal to non-science-based readers and desperados. Stem-cell therapy, the new oversized kid on the block, is for the aforementioned who happen to have loads of money. I got my science-o-meter out again this week and waved it toward “stem-cell injections.” The gauge reading was quite low. Reiki was higher since delusion (we’ll call it placebo) is now a recognized therapeutic force; a real win for the patchouli-oil mob. I suspect that there is more to this case than just a tendon issue, probably some arthritis. There is no magic bullet that will transport you past the fiery cauldron of joint degeneration. 62 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

Old Problem, Newer Elbow QUESTION

I have had pain in my left elbow for 15 years and it has ended my climbing career. I have gone through the testing protocols you outline in the two Dodgy Elbows articles, and neither of the exercises elicits much pain. When I palpate deep into crook of the elbow, however, it’s extremely painful. My elbow crackles and pops when I flex it all the way. Self massage helps, while doing pullups creates immediate and lasting pain. I consulted an orthopedic surgeon and x-rays showed arthritis, which he said there’s nothing I can do about it. He didn’t do an MRI. I’m 47 but I have a hard time believing my elbows are arthritic when they started hurting when I was 31. My elbow hurts even when I ride a bike. What do you think? —Torrey One of my mates, Big Dave, is 40-something. For some unlucky reason his right elbow clapped out early as well. Had he bought that elbow at the shops there would be no question about returning it. He mostly attends Cuddle Club (aka Brazilian Jujitsu) now because climbing is not much fun when the main limiting factor is pain. I’m not suggesting that arthritis is the sole source of your trouble, but it’s likely to be a major contributor at least. Anterior elbow pain can be a few things. If it just hurts when you poke around, you may have an anterior bone spur, as this is a fairly common place to get them in a degenerate elbow. Distal biceps tendonosis is also possible, and is only briefly mentioned in the Dodgy Elbows Revisited article. Cycling can be particularly aggravating for an arthritic elbow due to the way the joint is compressed. The synovial cartilage surfaces inside

STEVE GRAEPEL

I’m an older climber with serious medial elbow pain. MRI shows tendon tear. An orthopedic suggested a cortisone shot into the joint, saying that surgery is 50/50 success/failure. Your expertise would be valued. —Jack

MEDICAL ADVICE IAL S PE C W O ELB LTH H E A TI O N S EC

Elbow Health 1.

Avoid the ups-anddowns of training intensity. As much as you can keep it consistent and well structured such that you are not asking more from your elbows than they are capable of.

If you’re prone to elbow tendonosis, try doing a few sets of eccentric exercises a couple of times a week. You can read more about these in the Dodgy Elbows Revisited article archived on my web site.

Any type of repetitive, high-stress finger training is potentially problematic. Campus boards, Bachar ladders and finger boards can devour your

elbows like a diesel wood-chipper gone feral. Even changing your training style, say from long bouldering to the fingery Moon Board has a vast capacity to cause trouble.

Engineers, web designers, architects, and other avid mouse users, beware. Continually lifting the mouse to reposition it on the table surface is a major catalyst of lateral epicondylosis. If you can’t keep the mouse attached to the desk surface —sliding it rather than lifting it—try using a stylus and pen setup like a Wacom. Having an ergonomic mouse for each hand is a good way of spreading the load.

the joint will have a degree of injury that ranges from simple irritation—synovitis—to complete synovial erosion where bone is exposed to direct loading. Now imagine pushing the surfaces together and adding some high frequency shock load. Yowie! The conundrum with arthritis is that strength is shown to generally improve function and stability and thereby slow the process. There is, however, a fine balance between strengthening and further wearing out the joint. Traversing this issue is akin to walking a tightrope with cataracts—it’s more about feeling your way than having a set formula. Early joint degeneration as an athlete sucks. As a relatively young athlete you can rightfully feel a little gypped albeit there’s no one to take it up with. Can you go climbing? Sure. Will it be painful at times? Yep. Is that the whole story? Definitely not. See Rock and Ice Issue 237 for more information on arthritis. There are certainly other issues that can contribute to elbow pain, like the aforementioned distal biceps tendonosis, which are worth exploring given the profound effect on your climbing.

Retirement Injury? No Such Thing QUESTION

Embarrassing as it is, I fell off my bike while it was stationary, hitting my elbow on the edge of the gutter and royally phuked it. I fractured the radial head and through the ulna in the joint. What’s my chance of climbing again? —Simon As I stood on the top of the slide, victorious, having just run straight up the dauntingly steep ramp, I really did feel I had achieved something that Saturday at my mate’s house. I was 11. Such athletic prowess seemed important. Still does! The view was excellent. As the rusty old ladder snapped just below my feet, the excellent view became a blurry less excellent view. When I was able to focus again my elbow resembled a carpenter’s T-square, the ulna now poking out the back. My mate’s dad, a horse trainer, declared it “only dislocated” (which ironically may have been true at the time), wrapped it around his knee and wrenched it back into place. After the relocation, at least, my radius and ulna were fractured in several places, and my forearm took on the appearance of an oompa loompa’s thigh. Although fractures do happen, ligament and tendon injuries are far more common. Snapping the medial collateral ligament (aka ulna collateral ligament) on the inside of your elbow, acute tears in the common flexor tendon, distal bicep tendon rupture, and even avulsing the tricep tendon from the back of your elbow are all part of the injury spectrum in climbing. Luckily, the majority of injuries around the elbow heal extremely well, even if they do need surgery to be reattached, and virtually all climbers can return to previous levels of climbing given enough patience and desire. Radial head fractures, as is the case here, are fairly common in the general population. It’s as easy as falling onto an outstretched arm. Although you did this falling off your STATIONARY bike, you could have just as easily done this pitching off a lowball boulder problem or swinging in on a roped fall with your arm out by way of protection. Breaking the ulna, however, takes a bit more effort in terms of force. Climbing may well be one of the few activities that will get your elbow back to the best shape possible. Alternatively it could be completely horrible and way too much to expect. Although climbing does not irritate my elbow, whether you have pain while climbing depends on the extent and location of damage, and how well it heals. Certainly climbing is easy to control in terms of load, and it will improve functional range of motion and help you regain strength. And it’s fun, i.e., good for your head. Being injured and thus inactive can be depressing. Before you get to pull your shoes back on, however, your primary concern will be bending your elbow at all. After 12 weeks of immobilization, it will look and feel like a piece of fossilized wood. Find a manual therapist to help you regain as much range as you can. Be patient; it’s O.K. to cry a little. There will likely be some reduced capacity, both in forearm rotation and flexion/extension of the elbow, though this is typically less than 10 degrees in any direction and won’t really affect you while climbing. I’m not sure what steel work is in the elbow—screws and plates—or how it will play into your rehab. Certainly internal fixation can cause some issues and may need to be taken out down the track. F E B R UA R Y 2 018 63

GEAR GUY

Money for Dry Rope? QUESTION

Is a dry rope better than a standard if you climb at a humid crag? I'll never get my rope wet, but the humidity here is 99.999 percent all the time. I can count on two fingers the times I’ve had to rock climb on a wet rope. The most recent was in 1981 when Jimmy and The Roach and I got caught in a two-day hailstorm on the Nose. I don’t think dry treatments existed back then, and if they did, they were experimental. When we topped out on El Cap our 11mm must have gained five pounds. As they say, dry treatments have come a long ways, baby, urged on, perhaps, by a recent UIAA certification that limits water absorption to five percent. To compare, an untreated rope would make a serviceable kitchen sponge, absorbing up to 60 percent of its weight. Not all drytreated ropes are yet certified, but many are and other companies are working on it. You’ll want to read each manufacturer’s rope specs and get up to speed on how their various models are treated. In your case, whatever swamp you climb in, you will find a dry-treated rope as essential as chalk. I do think that “dry” for rope treatments isn’t quite the right word. Certainly if you rock climb in the rain the adjective applies, but who does that on purpose more than once? Rather, dry treatments are most useful

•

Got a question? Email: rockandicegearguy@gmail.com

when it isn’t raining by making a rope supple, improving handling, reducing friction, repelling dirt and increasing longevity. A dry treatment on your rope is like fabric softener for your clothes, or conditioner for your hair. To your question, yes, a dry-treated rope is worth the extra coin. Of course, ice climbers, alpinists and mountaineers will find a drytreated rope as necessary as butterfly bandages and a headlamp. Just yesterday I was ice climbing and spray from the falls blasted the rope. The rope stiffened up in a few spots, but remained usable because it was dry treated. Sans dry treatment it would have become a frozen cable, unable to pass through a belay device and impossible to knot. We can look to Toni Kurtz for an example of what can happen when you have trouble knotting frozen ropes. Next!

Eyeglasses Issue QUESTION

I wear glasses and am worried that I’m going to scratch them on the rock. Is this an issue? Have you ever tried putting cellphone screen protectors on your glasses to protect them? Cellphone screen protectors, essentially glorified Saran Wrap, might work, but they seem like an unnecessary hassle. Every time you climb you’ll have to cut the protectors to size and shape, and fit them over the

SUBSCRIBE FOR ONLY $2.50 A MONTH. * EVERY ISSUE DELIVERS!

Training advice, safety tips, gear reviews and the best climbing stories and photography in the world *get seven issues plus our special coffee-table quality annual, ASCENT!

ORDER ONLINE

USE PROMO CODE WDS15P AND GET ANOTHER $4 OFF! WWW.ROCKANDICE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

THE CLIMBER’S MAGAZINE

GEAR GUY

lenses. I have enough bother getting out the door with all the climbing gear I actually need. I don’t need one more thing to deal with. Lens scratches are a price you’ll pay for wearing glasses. Dust and airborne flotsam will inevitably settle on the lenses, and when you wipe the glass clean with your shirttail, as you’ll do because you need to see, you’ll scratch them. This is why I wear a sacrificial pair of glasses just for climbing. I have, after 40 years, figured out a couple of tricks: You can minimize scratches by properly cleaning the lenses. Never wipe them dry. Pack a bottle of lens-cleaning solution, spritz the lenses and dry them with a lens-cleaning cloth. If you have to, you can breathe on the lenses. When you get home, hold your glasses under hot tap water, a sort of touchless car wash. Air dry. Next!

Project Rope Safety

can tell you your soup needs more salt. I can't taste it, you can. Leaving a rope on a project for an entire season will almost certainly waste it. The sun will bleach and crisp it, and the effects of even an infrequent gentle breeze will abrade the sheath against the rock. The danger here is that most of us suffer from illusory superiority, and this rubs off on our thinking about ropes. That is, other people’s cords are jankey while ours in the same situation lasts forever. Inspect your project rope before you tie into it. If you can’t see the full length of the rope, pull it down. If you have a second rope you can tape one of its ends to an end of your fixed rope, then pull the fixed rope and the new cord will slither up and through the draws and anchor and back to. Voila—you have a fresh rope to climb on. Cloth athletic tape works well for joining the ropes. Use more wraps than you think you’ll need, and immediately remove the tape so no one climbs on the taped ropes believing they are knotted together. I can’t give you a timeline for fixed rope “safeness.” It just depends. I do know that if you are leaving your rope hanging at a popular crag it’ll likely be stolen long before it gets trashed. Gear Guy has spoken!

QUESTION

I have a rope hanging on my project. How long will it be safe up there? Every day your rope is on your project it becomes less safe. Leave it up there long enough and it will become unsafe. That tipping point is for you to judge. I can’t tell you whether your rope is safe anymore than I

FREE RACK PACK!



The lightest full-size carabiners in the world! To score your Rack Pack, send a question to rockandicegearguy@gmail.com. If your question leads in the next issue, you win.

G E A R G U I D E + GEAR GUY

Ida Kups, a member of the Polish youth climbing team, on Helikopter v Omaki (8b/5.13d), at Luknja, Osp, Slovenia. PHOTO: Piotrek Deska

GEAR GUIDE

S PR I N G 201 8

WWW.BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM Accommodates ropes from 8.7-10.5

Lightweight low profile construction utilizing Fusion Comfort Technology

Steel construction

Adjustable, releasable elastic risers

Countoured fit for superior comfort and range of motion

ATC Pilot

Solution Harness

$44.95 A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout.

$69.95 Our purpose-built sport climber’s harness, the Solution features Fusion Comfort Technology and a durable, contoured design for superior comfort during long days putting in redpoint burns and marathon belays. Available in Men’s and Women’s

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/atc-pilot

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/solution

Shadow Climbing Shoe

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/shadow

Engineered Knit Technology tongue provides exceptional breathability and comfort

Minimalist midsole for extra sensitivity on steep terrain

4.3mm rubber is molded for superior grip, optimal consistency, and performance

S P EC I A L A DV E R T I S I N G S EC T I O N

Aggressive, downturned last for steep routes and bouldering

FEBRUARY 2018 67

$179.95 The dream shoe for steep, aggressive climbing, the Shadow is a downturned Velcro shoe built for pulling HARD. Featuring our extra-sticky molded rubber with added friction strips for better toe-hooking, and a durable microfiber upper combined with our Engineered Knit Technology tongue, the Shadow is ready to send your project. Unisex

GEAR GUIDE

Ergonomic, non-slip surface

/ S PRI N G 201 8

GEAR GUIDE

Pushing toward the summit of Mont Blanc (15,781 feet), via the Gouter, considered the “normal” route up the mountain. PHOTO: Eric Wong

WWW.BIGAGNES.COM WEIGHT: 11.9OZ/337G ROLLED SIZE: 8CM X 17CM SIZE: 20 X 72 RECTANGULAR PAD OTHER SIZES AVAILABLE

68 FEBRUARY 2018

Insulated AXL Air Pad MSRP $179.95 Simply put, this is the most comfortable and lightest ultralight three-season pad you can put in your pack. The Insulated AXL Air combines a proprietary nylon rip-stop shell, PrimaLoft Silver® insulation and larger outer tubes to keep you cradled on top, warm, and ultimately-ultra-comfy.

WEIGHT: 2LBS 4OZ COMPRESSED SIZE: 6IN X 8IN

Skeeter SL 20 MSRP $289.95 The Skeeter SL 20 sleeping bag features the REM pad sleeve; clip the stuff sack to the back of the bag and slide your pad in to ensure you won’t roll off during the night. The 650 fill power DownTek™ and vertical structured side walls trap heat close to your body for warmth and comfort.

TRAIL WEIGHT: 2LBS 3OZ PACKED SIZE: 5.5” X 18” THREE SEASON, TWO PERSON, TWO DOOR

Tiger Wall UL2 MSRP $399.95 Our lightest two door/two vestibule backcountry tent. The two doors make tent life easier and the weight savings is especially nice when out for multi-day trips. Packed with all our technical features. Also available in a three-person model.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Chalk Dilemma ASK GEAR GUY I suffer from really bad cracked skin on my hands and under my nails. Using climbing chalk makes my condition worse. Is there any chalk out there that isn’t so bad for my dry hands? Chalk’s purpose is to dry your hands, so you won’t find a chalk that is kind to your skin. Some chalks do have an antiperspirant additive. Avoiding chalk with such additives is a start, but how you care for your hands off the rock is where you can make a real difference. For starters, wear belay gloves. Gloves will keep dirt and rope gack from getting on your hands and further drying them out. When the climbing day is over, wash your hands and apply moisturizer. Moisturize throughout the day, and slather up right before bed.

them for times when you need to minimize weight and rope drag. Naturally there are trade offs. Thin ropes aren’t as durable, can cut more easily and are more difficult to grip and belay with. A skinny rope also might not be compatible with your rap/belay device. I like to use a 10mm(ish) cord for projecting and wall climbing. When it is time to send or onsight, I switch to a thinner rope. Realistically, a thinner rope mostly gives you a psychological edge, with the weight savings really noticed when the rope is in your pack.

Bag That Rope ASK GEAR GUY

ASK GEAR GUY What’s the smallest diameter rope I can use for sport climbing? Most rope manufacturers offer a 9mm single rope and even a model that dips down to 8.9 or 8.7mm. These smaller ropes are lighter and slither through carabiners with little friction, suiting

Absolutely. A rope bag serves several functions. It minimizes kinks because you stack the rope in the bag instead of coiling it. A rope bag is essentially a rope pack that lets you easily move your rope from route to route. A rope bag keeps your cord out of the dirt. Besides spoiling your precious cord’s cosmetics, dirt is an abrasive. Keeping your rope clean will prolong its life.

WWW.BOREALOUTDOOR.COM

Satori

Dharma MSRP $160.00 BOREAL Dharma is the pinnacle of sport climbing performance. The highly downturned and asymmetric last shape combined with supportive midsole and BOREAL® Zenith Pro™ rubber mean that Dharma excels on the World’s hardest, steepest climbs.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

FEBRUARY 2018 69

MSRP $160.00 BOREAL Satori was developed with our worldwide athletes to create the ultimate bouldering shoe. With an aggressively downturned and asymmetric last shape and mega sticky BOREAL® Zenith Ultra™ rubber, Satori features outstanding sensitivity and optimized heel hooking ability to perform on the hardest problems.

S PRI N G 201 8 / G E A R G U I D E

Thick or Thin Rope?

Are rope bags really worth it?

/ S PRI N G 201 8

GEAR GUIDE

Matty Bowman steps delicately on The Fairy Tale Traverse, the airy final pitch of Pinnacle Direct (5.9+) on Mt. Washington, New Hampshire. The average daily temperature on the summit of Mt. Washington is 26 degrees, and it can snow any day of the year. PHOTO: Brent Doscher

WWW.OUTDOORDESIGNSEQUIPMENT.COM

Diablo Tec

Diablo GTT

Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worn while climbing, during chilly approaches, or on shoulder season backpacking trips, the Diablo Tec makes the perfect all around, lightweight glove. Its softshell body and goat leather palm provide the necessary dexterity for gripping ice tools or placing screws, and two carabiner loops make the glove easy to attach to a harness or pack when not in use.

The Diablo GTT is a mountain glove like no other and does everything a mid-layer glove should do--sipping morning brew at camp, repelling wicked alpine winds, and breathing comfortably during high output activities. The glove uses Wind Pro Hard Face fabric with a goat skin leather palm and grippy leather fingers for do it all adventures in cold and windy conditions.

70 FEBRUARY 2018

MSRP $55

MSRP $50

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Caution, Tight Shoes ASK GEAR GUY

Rest That Rope

My shoes are painfully tight. Is that good?

Think of a climbing rope as a nylon spring. Every time you load it you use up some of its capacity to stretch, increasing the impact force. Load it enough times—no one knows what that number is because it depends on variables—and you’ll use up its “springiness.” Letting a rope rest between falls gives it time to rebound, or regain some of its springiness. But by how much? Kolin Powick, Director of Black Diamond’s Climbing Category, used a UIAA-style drop tower to conduct drop tests, letting the rope rest five minutes, then 30 minutes, then two hours, and finally for 24 hours between falls. He concluded that letting the rope rest only nominally decreased the impact force. The difference between a five-minute and a 24hour rest for the second drop, for example, was a decrease of only 102 lbf. Of note is that the impact force increased nearly 500 lbf from the first to the sixth drop, with a five-minute rest between falls. Conclusion: Switching ends of the rope is better than falling on the same end even after a rest. Of course, once you’ve fallen on both rope ends the tactic starts to become only slightly better than resting the same end.

WWW.DEUTER.COM

Gravity Haul 50 MSRP $169

What if climbers had a free wish? Perhaps a haul bag and backpack in one? Voila! Here it is! The Deuter Gravity Haul 50. This climbing pack is extremely rugged and includes enough room for all of your heavy gear, ropes, and personal items with a backsystem that’s comfortable enough to make you forget just how much you’ve packed into it.

S PRI N G 201 8 / G E A R G U I D E

Unless your shoes are brand new and you know they will stretch a half or full size, they shouldn’t be painful. However, there are nuances. The tightness of your shoes should be determined by what type of rock and routes you intend to climb. I have five pairs, all for different types of climbing. For instance, if you are in Yosemite to climb cracks all day, then you don’t want a super-tight shoe; rather, you want your toes to be flat to fit in cracks, and flat toes are comfortable toes. On the other end of the spectrum are shoes for steep sport routes, the gym and bouldering. Fit these with your toes slightly buckled, but still strive for comfort. Once even a tight pair of shoes is broken in they should be comfortable. If you notice that your shoes are tight, they hurt and you look forward to peeling them off, then they are too small. Wearing rock shoes that are too tight can cause foot problems, from bone spurs to bunions, and even damage the joint of the big toe, resulting in the painful and lifelong condition of Hallux Limitus, or even worse, Hallux Rigidus, where you lose all flexation in the joint.

ASK GEAR GUY Is there a real basis for resting a rope by switching ends after a fall ?

COLOR: NAVY-GRANITE (GREY-BLUE) ARTICLE ID: 3362317-3400 WEIGHT: 3 LBS 12 OZ 1700 G VOLUME: 3050 CUBIC INCHES 50 LITRE SIZE: 28 / 13 / 10 INCH 70 / 32 / 26 (H X W X D) CM

FEBRUARY 2018 71

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GEAR GUIDE

/ S PRI N G 201 8

Alyse Dietel styles the offwidth of Chrysler Crack (5.9), Red Rock, Nevada. PHOTO: Irene Yee

WWW.STERLINGROPES.COM GRAMS PER METER: 57 IMPACT FORCE: 8.7KN FALLS HELD: 6 STATIC ELONGATION: 7.2% DYNAMIC ELONGATION: 33.1% WATER ABSORPTION: 0.9%

ES INCLUDE A FRELING STER IE ! BE AN

72 FEBRUARY 2018

9.4 mm Ion R™ DryXP™ MSRP 40M–$125.95/50M–$198.90 60M–$204.95/70M–$239/80M–$274.95 NEW FOR 2018! The latest, improved version of one of our most sought-after ropes offers durability in a perfect, mid-range size. The Ion R is notable for its firm,tactile feel that’s easy to clip. Available with new DryXP treatment, UIAA Certified Water Repellent. Non bicolor options include a Middle Mark. https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/ dynamic/fusion-series/fusion-ion-r https://sterlingrope.com/journal/206-dry-xp

GRAMS PER METER: 52 IMPACT FORCE: 8.5KN/6.6KN/10.4KN FALLS HELD: 6/>15/>20 STATIC ELONGATION: 7%/7%/3.6? DYNAMIC ELONGATION: 26.4%/27.6%/25.3% WATER ABSORPTION: 1.8%

9.0 mm Nano IX ™ DryXP™ MSRP 30M–$94.95/40M–$126.95 50M–$189.95/60M–$227.95 70M–$265.9/80M–$304.95 Certified as a single, half, and twin rope the Nano IX is lean, mean and versatile: perfect for sport routes, ice, or mixed conditions. Available with new DryXP treatment, UIAA Certified Water Repellent. Non bicolor options include a Middle Mark. https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/ dynamic/fusion-series/fusion-nano-ix https://sterlingrope.com/journal/206-dry-xp

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WWW.EDELRID.COM

Built To Last

Introducing the Bulletproof family, the next generation of aluminum carabiners. A first of their kind, these hybrid, lightweight, aluminum / steel carabiners are constructed with a stainless steel plate at the major wear point. These carabiners will see many seasons, decrease aluminum oxide buildup, reduce the risk of sharp edges, and reduce the overall strain on resources and the environment. BULLETPROOF QUICKDRAW MSRP: $28.95

BULLETPROOF CARABINER MSRP: $13.95

BULLETPROOF SCREW CARABINER MSRP: $18.95

HMS BULLETPROOF SCREW MSRP: $24.95

MSRP: $29.95 / MSRP: $35.95 HMS BULLETPROOF SCREW AND TRIPLE FG

Tommy Caldwell Signature Line Developed in partnership with EDELRID athlete Tommy Caldwell. As one of America’s most technical climbers, these products should not be missed. Canary Pro Dry 8.6mm: 47% sheath proportion compared to 32% for other ropes in the same category. Triple certified as a single, half, and twin. Tommy Caldwell Pro Dry DT 9.6mm: Durable sheath makes it ideal for working routes or big wall climbing. Bluesign® Standard. Ace Ambassador Harness: 3D-Vent Lite technology in waist belt and leg loops evenly distributes load across the harness. Designed for demanding routes on rock and ice. Breathable, lightweight, packable. “As Climbers, we walk on receding glaciers, swim in rivers that grow smaller each year, and climb on rock faces that are falling apart. The companies we choose to work with and the products we use are a vital part of the equation.” -Tommy Caldwell, EDELRID Athlete

SUSTAINABLE ROPE MANUFACTURING: The unique and colorful design of EDELRID’s Eco family of ropes, is due to the sheath being made 100% of unused yarns leftover from production that otherwise would have went to the landfill. EDELRID’s Boa-Eco family represents a giant step forward in sustainable rope manufacturing. Through partnership with Bluesign®, as well as their own environmental management standards, EDELRID, compared to traditional rope manufacturing techniques, uses; 89% less water, emits 62% less CO2, uses 63% less energy, and 63% less chemicals when dyeing sheath yarns. Swift Eco 8.9mm: First ever rope with PFC-free dry treatment. Meets UIAA Dry standards. MSRP: $249.95 (60m) Boa Eco 9.8mm: All-around, workhorse rope with outstanding price-performance ratio. MSRP: $159.95 (60m)

OHM

S PRI N G 201 8 / G E A R G U I D E

Ropes That Matter

MSRP: $129.95

The Problem: Risk of lead ground fall and/or belayer being yanked off ground. The Solution: The Ohm- assistedbraking resistor to increase rope friction and offset the weight difference between lead climber and belayer.

HOW IT WORKS

CANARY PRO DRY 8.6MM 60M MSRP: $249.95

TOMMY CALDWELL PRO DRY DT 9.6MM 60M MSRP: $229.95

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

FEBRUARY 2018 73

ACE AMBASSADOR HARNESS MSRP: $129.95

The OHM increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier climber without difficulty. • Less hand braking force to stop fall • Lowering climber is easier to control • Attached at first bolt • Significantly reduces risk of ground fall • Rope handling is not affected

/ S PRI N G 201 8

Problematic Harness

ASK GEAR GUY My friend said he wouldn’t climb with me unless I cut the end off my rope. He said that that my rope looked “flat” when he pinched it in half. What is he talking about and how do you know when to cut a rope?

ASK GEAR GUY I am a dude and my harness sits low around my hips, especially when it is loaded with gear. My friend says this is unsafe, and that my harness doesn’t fit. Should the waist belt be over my hips?

Your rope is flat, well not completely flat, but it has lost its roundness from being weighted over a carabiner again and again. This type of wear usually happens within the first 20 feet of the rope ends, since that is where a rope takes the beating over a carabiner either in a fall or “take” scenario. A deformed, or flat, section should be cut out. You should also cut out rope ends that are badly fuzzed or core shot. A trimmed rope will naturally be shorter, so beware: Your 60-meter cord will no longer let you lower from a 30-meter pitch. Wrap a piece of cloth tape around each end of the trimmed rope and write the new length on the tape. If your rope has a middle marker you need to trim both rope ends the same amount—if you only trim one end, then the middle mark will no longer be in the middle, and that could spell disaster for rappelling or lowering. Trimming both rope ends will keep the middle mark in the middle. As always, to prevent your being lowered off the end of a rope or rappelling off the end(s), knot the free end of the rope(s).

Listen to your friend. If your waist belt is riding low, as in belo your hips, you could slip out of it in an upside-down fall. You shouldn’t use a harness that doesn’t fit. There are at least 200 models of harnesses—one of those, or likely quite a few of those will fit you perfectly. If you must, try women’s models. These can have wider waist belts relative to the leg loops, and a higher “rise,” which is the distance roughly from crotch to navel. It sounds like you have a long rise for a guy, so a women’s model might suit you. Other options are to check out harnesses with adjustable leg loops. Fit the waist first, then size the leg loops. The waist belt is the critical fit; most leg loops are a bit baggy and have some give built into them anyway so you have some leeway there. To get a sure-fire fit, consider a custom-made harness. Misty Mountain offers a service where you can have a harness built just for you. You can mix and match the waist and leg loops, add as many gear loops as you wish, pick the type of buckles you prefer and even get a color of your choosing.

GEAR GUIDE

Is a Flat Rope Safe?

WWW.BLUEWATERROPES.COM

74 FEBRUARY 2018

9.7mm Lightning Pro Dynamic Rope MSRP 60m-$244, 70m-$278, 80m-$310 This rope is ideal for sport or extreme alpine climbing. Compare the specs of the Lightning Pro to any similar diameter from others and you’ll see the Lightning Pro outshines all the rest. Lighter, lower impact force, and Super high fall rating for ropes in the sub 10mm category. The Lightning Pro is easy handling and easy to clip. The low bulk, light weight and performance characteristics have made this rope the choice for many high-end endeavors, from sport to wall-in-a-day to alpine routes. Available with Double-Dry and Bi-Color options.

SPECIAL A DIAMETER: 9.7mm GRAMS PER METER: 61 IMPACT FORCE: 7.8 kN UIAA FALLS HELD: 8 STATIC ELONGATION: 8.9% DYNAMIC ELONGATION: 32.2% SHEATH SLIPPAGE: 1mm SHEATH MASS: 36%

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WWW.METOLIUS.COM

Ultralight Master Cams S PRI N G 201 8 / G E A R G U I D E

MSRP $59.95 - $64.95 Master Cams are the lightest four cam units on the planet - 40% lighter than conventional cams! The narrow head profile allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming cracks. Also available as Offsets for flares and pin scars. www.metoliusclimbing.com/ultralight-master-cam.html www.metoliusclimbing.com/offset_master_cam.html

ADVERTISING SECTION

Upshot Belay Glasses

MSRP $5.95 The ultimate small, light, full-strength carabiner has been redesigned with a larger gate-opening and a flared nose-profile to help prevent accidental gate-openings. All at a lighter weight and lower price than the original!

MSRP $59.95 Upshot Belay Glasses feature increased peripheral vision and a view that aims higher on the wall than our original Belay Glasses. Sportstyle temples and low-profile nose pads fit better when using with glasses or sunglasses. Includes lanyard, hard case, and lens cloth.

www.metoliusclimbing.com/fs_mini_carabiner.html

www.metoliusclimbing.com/upshot-belay-glasses.html

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

FEBRUARY 2018 75

FS Mini II

/ S PRI N G 201 8

GEAR GUIDE

Harmony Calhoun clips up Greyhound (5.12a), Lime Kiln Canyon, east of Mesquite, Arizona. PHOTO: Irene Yee

WWW.MAMMUT.CH

Smart 2.0

76 FEBRUARY 2018

MSRP $34.95 Geometry-assisted belay device provides additional security over a tube-style device, while maintaining light weight and simple handling. It’s especially at home in the gym, sport-climbing and any climb-and-lower cragging. • Smart 2.0 works with most HMSshape locking carabiners • Take in rope normally and a fall will lock the device as long as the Smart is free to pivot. The device will hold the fallen climber in place so you don’t have to “hold” them but always keep the brake hand on the rope. • To lower, control the brake-end with one hand and use the crook of your other thumb to pull away from your body on the nose of the device.

• To feed slack to a leader, hold the brake end of the rope loosely and use your brake-hand thumb under the nose of the device to pull it straight away from your body, while you strip off slack with your guide hand. • 80 grams with easy operation and no moving parts.

Neon Shuttle MSRP $99.95 This versatile 30l pack is just big enough for a trip to the gym or the crag, and just small enough you’ll want to use it every day. • Ultra-durable 420D triple-ripstop coated nylon • Flap pocket to keep a guidebook or your flip-flops handy, with a zip interior pocket and key-keeper for valuables. • Drawcord closure with top –mounted rope-carry strap and briefcase handle allows versatile carrying options

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GEAR GUIDE

S PRI N G 201 8

WWW.THENORTHFACE.COM

GEAR GUIDE

Summit L3 Ventrix Hoodie MSRP: $280 Your new alpine workhorse, this synthetic-insulated mid layer features a cutting-edge, dynamic-venting insulation layer that activates with movement and works in combination with highly air-permeable fabrics. It sets a new standard for comfort in a broad range of activity levels, balancing warmth and comfort.

Summit L1 Climb Pant MSRP: $130 An essential part of every climber’s kit, these pants were designed for longs days in the harness and crafted with lightweight, stretch-woven Cordura® fabric for unparalleled durability and range of motion.

• Avg Weight: 420 g (14.81 oz) • Lightweight fabrics with high air permeability

• 80 g Ventrix™ insulation throughout the garment; perforated through the center back and under the arms for dynamic venting • Harness-compatible pockets & stretch knit cuffs with DWR finish • Also available in Men’s

Route Rocket MSRP: $79 Get ready to take off with this rugged, durable big-wall climbing pack that will take your gear to new heights. Featuring carbon-coated Shredstop™ fabric, this pack has been tested from Yosemite to Kenya and is ready for a lifetime of multi-pitch climbs.

• Volume: 16 liters • Carbon-coated Shredstop™ fabric is highly scratch resistant and durable

78 FEBRUARY 2018

• Exterior daisy chain to lash on extra gear • Engineered top-lid-pocket design prevents contents from falling out of the bag when accessed • Tuckable shoulder straps and hipbelt for no-drag hauling up the rock • Designed in collaboration with Peter Croft, Heidi Wirtz, Sam Elias and other climbing athletes • Also available in Men’s

S P EC I A L A DV E R T I S I N G S EC T I O N

• Stretch-woven Cordura® fabric throughout provides

exceptional durability with durable water-repellent (DWR) finish. • Two concealed-zip hand pockets and one concealed-zip back pocket • Perforated pocket bags for maximum breathability Leg hem-cinch system for easy pull up • Also available in Men’s

ATHLETE TESTED EXPEDITION PROVEN CAROLINE CIAVALDINI & ANNA PFAFF TIM KEMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY WADI RUM PRESERVE JORDAN

GEAR FINDER

GUIDEMM_Rock-Ice_ad_151208.pdf FINDER

12/8/15

8:34 PM

Since 1984

EXPEDITIONS, TREKS, AND CLIMBING SCHOOLS WORLDWIDE FOR MORE THAN 30+ YEARS. Contact us at:

1-800-328-5925 www.mountainmadness.com

$ RESCUE

DISCOUNTS

BETA

GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

COMMUNITY

LODGING

RESCUE

DISCOUNTS

BETA

GRANTS

$ RESCUE

$ $

DISCOUNTS

BETA

GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

COMMUNITY

LODGING

RESCUE

DISCOUNTS

BETA

GRANTS

$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ RESCUE $ $ LODGING

DISCOUNTS

RESCUE

BETA

TOGETHER WE’RE STRONGER

RESCUE

RESCUE =

DISCOUNTS

RESCUE

DISCOUNTS LODGING BETA

DISCOUNTS

RESCUEBETA DISCOUNTS

$ $

DISCOUNTS

America’s Top Leadership Programs for Rock & Ice From team leadership to technical leadership

Learn to Lead – moderate, intmed, & adv. rock & ice. Efficiency clinic for multi-pitch. Intmed & Advanced Alpine. Big Wall Climbing. Guide/ Instructor Training Program.

American Alpine Institute

800-424-2249 • AlpineInstitute.com AAI is 100% Carbon Neutral

80 F E B R UA R Y 2 018 • I S S U E 24 8

ECUADOR • FRANCE • NEPAL • PATAGONIA • PERU • RUSSIA • SWITZ

ALASKA • CASCADES • DESERT ROCK • ROCKIES • CANADA

BOLIVIA • ARGENTINA • CHILE • CHINA • SIERRA

RESCUE

DISCOUNTS

BETA

RESCUE

DISCOUNTS BETA

RESCUE LODGING GRANTS

BETA

LODGING DISCOUNTS GRANTS

GRANTS LODGING

DISCOUNTS

$ GRANTS

DISCOUNTS

BETA

GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

COMMUNITY

DISCOUNTS DISCOUNTS BETA RESCUE BETA GRANTS GRANTSPUBLICATIONS COMMUNITY ADVOCACY PUBLICATIONS CONSERVATION

GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

COMMUNITY

DISCOUNTS GRANTS RESCUE BETA BETA COMMUNITY ADVOCACY PUBLICATIONS

BETA PUBLICATIONS RESCUE

BETA

$ ADVOCACY BETA

COMMUNITY DISCOUNTS

GRANTS

LODGING PUBLICATIONS

GRANTS PUBLICATIONS CONSERVATION

COMMUNITY

GRANTS BETA

ADVOCACY

GRANTS

DISCOUNTS

americanalpineclub.org AAC member Garrett Grove

CONSERVATION GRANTS

PUBLICATIONS

CONSERVATION

PUBLICATIONS

ROCK GYMS

GUIDE SERVICES

OUTFITTERS

CALIFORNIA

CANADA

Newmarket, ON. OF ROCK & CHALK LTD, http:// rockandchalk.com/, 905.895.7625 ARIZONA Tucson. ROCKS AND ROPES: DOWNTOWN TUCSON. 300 S Toole Ave, Suite 400, Tucson, AZ 85701; 520-882-5924; rocksandropes.com

MOUNTAIN PROFESSIONALS; Mountain climbing and polar expeditions worldwide. Seven Summits, Mountaineering and Polar Ski training, small teams with personalized attention and highest standards in safety and logistics. Everest, Manaslu, Aconcagua, Vinson, North and South Pole. Trips available for all abilities. AMGA and UIAGM trained or Certified. www.mtnprofessionals.com (303)956-9945. Celebrating 10 years of operation!

Tucson. THE BLOC CLIMBING+FITNESS+YOGA. 8975 E Tanque Verde, Tucson, AZ 85749; 520-209-2562; rocksandropes.com ARKANSAS

REAL CHEAP SPORTS 36 W. Santa Clara, Ventura, CA 93001; 805-648-3803; F 805-653-2581; realcheapsports.com MAINE ALPENGLOW ADVENTURE SPORTS 92 Main Street. Orno, ME 04473 shop@alpenglowgear.com, 1-888-232-9559 Instagram: @alpenglowgear http:// Alpenglowgear.com/ MASSACHUSETTS

Little Rock. LITTLE ROCK CLIMBING CENTER. www.littlerockclimbing.com 501-227-9500 CALIFORNIA

Rancho Cordova, GRANITE ARCH, Indoor climbing on incredibly realistic surfaces! 916-852ROCK; www.granitearch.com Santa Cruz. PACIFIC EDGE. Indoor climbing at its finest! 104 Bronson St., Santa Cruz, CA 95062; 831-454-9254; www.pacificedgeclimbinggym.com ILLINOIS

Glendale Heights. VERTICAL ENDEAVORS. Over 45,000 ft2 of climbing for all ages and abilities. Bouldering Areas, Auto Belays, Top Rope, and Lead Routes. www.verticalendeavors.com MINNESOTA

Duluth and the Twin Cities VERTICAL ENDEAVORS. Twin Cities and Duluth offer climbing for all ages and abilities. Bouldering Areas, Auto Belays, Top Rope, and Lead routes. www.verticalendeavors.com SOUTH CAROLINA

Spartanburg. CLIMB UPSTATE. 6655 Pottery Road, Spartanburg SC 29303; 864-699-9967; www.climbupstate.com; climb@climbupstate.com TEXAS Austin. AUSTIN ROCK GYM 512-416-9299; www.austinrockgym.com.

Houston STONEMOVES. 281-397-0830; www.stonemoves.com Houston, inSPIRE Rock Climbing & Team Building Center, www. inspirerock.com, 281.288.ROCK WASHINGTON Spokane. WILD WALLS CLIMBING GYM. 202 W 2nd Ave, Spokane WA 99201; 509-455-9596; www.wildwalls.com; wildwallsgym@gmail.com WYOMING Lander, ELEMENTAL PERFORMANCE + FITNESS, https://lmntl. net/, 307.332.0480

INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES; Ashford, WA 360-569-2609; www.mountainguides.com; office@ mountainguides.com; “Climbing the World’s Great Mountains” Seven Summits • Alaska • Ouray • Mt. Washington • Himalayas •North Cascades • Smith Ricks • Ecuador • Bolivia • Mexico • Peru • Cho Oyu • Alps • Mt. Rainier

YAMNUSK A MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES; 1-866678-4164; info@yamnuska.com; www.yamnuska.com IFMGA/ACMG Certified. Rock · Ice · Mountaineering · Skiing; Beginner to expert programs. Private, family and groups

NEW ENGLAND BACKPACKER 6 East Mountain St. Worcester, MA 01606 508-853-9407 http://www.newenglandbackpacker.com/ nebackpacker@ verizon.net VERMONT OUTDOOR GEAR EXCHANGE 37 Church Street, Burlington, VT 05401 802.598.2686, GearX.com

GET A FREE COPY OF HOW TO CLIMB: TRAINING $6.99 VALUE

JEDIAH PORTER, IFMGA SKI AN D MOU NTAIN G U ID E; An independent internationally certified ski and mountain guide. I lead trips around North America and the world, customizing every endeavor to combine your goals with an authentic, athletic, and wild perspective. We will work together, and with local partners, on objective, skills, logistics, and permits. jediahmporter@gmail.com. www.jediahporter.com. (760) 920 1403. Alaska - California - Wyoming - Colorado - Utah - Canada - South America - European Alps

MOUNTAIN MADNESS; Seattle, WA; 800 -328-5925; AMGA accredited; Since 1984; www.mountainmadness. com; markg@mountainmadness.com; Seven Summits * expeditions worldwide * North Cascades and international climbing schools * guided ascents * skiing * trekking

ACADIA MOUNTAIN GUIDES CLIMBING SCHOOL; climb@acadiamountainguides.com 207 866 7562 climbacadia.org acadiamountaingu dies.com Join us in our 16th year offering rock climbing & adventure camps in ME, Acadia National Park, & NH! 9-12 year olds choose from Acadia based 5-day day/overnight camps. Teens choose from 3,7, or 9 day sessions: Rock Pro I-IV, multi-sport adventures, or WFA/Leadership/SAR camp. Bouldering & Sport, Traditional, & Multi Pitch camps. Directed by IFMGA Guide Jon Tierney. USA Climbing Member Discounts. AMGA Accredited Business since 1994.

ORDER ONLINE

WWW.ROCKANDICE.COM/HTTCL HOW TO CLIMB: TRAINING WILL BE INCLUDED WITH YOUR ORDER.

THE CLIMBER’S MAGAZINE

F E B R UA R Y 2 018 81

PARTING SHOT PHOTO BY AUSTIN SIADAK

Block Party

Chris Mutzel on the runout and rimecovered first pitch of Exocet (WI 5+, 1,500 feet), Cerro Stanhardt, Patagonia. FA: Jim Bridwell, Greg Smith and Jay Smith, 1988; this was also the first ascent of the peak. The pitch you see here is sometimes fat alpine ice, but it can also be the crux in lean conditions, requiring balance, precision and a cool head to tiptoe up tiny granite edges and delicate ice blobs.

82 M A R C H 2 018 â&#x20AC;˘ I S S U E 24 8

2 1

5.11 The Rock Climber’s Training Manual

Meet your new training partner. The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is a strategic guide for climbers of any level. It has helped some of the world’s strongest climbers break through longstanding plateaus and sparked continuous improvement for others. You’re next.