The Cloakroom Standard Issue 2

issue 2, 2013

STANDARD

initial denim on james st

the origins of silk

pistols at daWn

The made-to-measure jeans concept store

The most revered of natural ďŹ bres

New collection

blue indigo

Guide to the modern wardrobe staple

cOnTrIBUTOrS EDITORIAL DIRECTORS michael mcAtomney Hannah Byrne

DESIGN & LAYOUT Linda Luo behance.net/llinda Hannah Byrne

PHOTOGRAPHY elisabeth Willis elisabethwillis.com Luis Zakharoff

ILLUSTRATIONS Linda Luo

WRITERS michael mcAtomney Hannah Byrne Linda Luo Ben messina Inga read claire Banks Justin Hertzman

THE CLOAKROOM Andrew Byrne Louis Ialenti Ben messina mitchell Humphris Lachlan Sinclair

ON THE COVER

Pistols at Dawn's latest collection Photo by elisabeth Willis

The Cloakroom 104 edward St. Brisbane, QLD 4000 617 3210 1515 www.thecloakroom.com.au

Pistols at Dawn & initial Denim

wEddInG wEAR

InITIAL dEnIM On JAMEs sT

P I s TO L s AT dAw n

Shop 11, 46 James St. Fortitude Valley, QLD 4006 617 3257 3300 www.pistolsatdawn.com.au www.initialdenim.com

Q&A w I T H dA R R E n LO C KY E R

THE ORIGIns OF sILK

BLuE IndIGO

All contents of this magazine are copyrighted Š2013 The cloakroom Australia Pty. Ltd. / 104 edward St. Brisbane, QLD 4000. reproduction of editorial is strictly prohibited without prior permission of The cloakroom Australia Pty. Ltd.

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Initial Denim Words by Hannah Byrne Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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We don’t believe in fast, trend driven fashion and I think the jeans concept lets us tell this story in a great way.

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nitial Denim is a unique concept - the first of its kind in Australia - offering customers made-to-measure jeans that are entirely hand constructed.

The idea came naturally to Andrew Byrne and Louis Ialenti, the duo behind tailored menswear store The Cloakroom, who with this new project look to push the boundaries of personalised and handmade clothing in Australia.

“People love to be involved in the design process.

They love choosing their own fabric, the style and cut, as well as the smaller details like the stitching and rivets. It is a hands-on experience and it’s great to be able to create something so personal for our clients,” said co-founder Andrew Byrne.

Working with some of the finest denim mills in Italy, Japan, the United States and Turkey, the store has a constantly changing selection of fabrics with styles phased out as they sell through. These include a selection of narrow loom selvedge denim, as well as seasonal additions and some fabrics with a 2-3% lycra component (for extra comfort).

Choosing from three different styles of cut, clients are able to choose the detailing of their jeans from the buttons and stitching colour, to the rivets, belt loops, trims and pockets.

“It is important for us that this newest addition complements our philosophy and what we do at The Cloakroom. We don’t believe in fast, trend driven fashion and I think the jeans concept lets us tell this story in a great way. A lot of our customers don’t need to be in a suit every day, so with this new store we offer a garment that every guy should have in his wardrobe,” said Andrew.

f e at u r e s

“Men have tailored shirts, jackets and pants. Why wouldn’t they want the same level of style and comfort from a pair of jeans? We are seeing a resurgence and desire for quality with more men looking for garments that are built to last. They don’t want to buy ill-fitting, throwaway clothes that wear through,” said Louis.

“After running into issues with the equipment required and the personnel to run such a precise operation, we decided to expand our Cloakroom suiting team in Hong Kong from 5 tailors to 8. It’s unfortunate in Australia that we don’t seem to have the capability for smaller businesses to utilise a highly skilled manufac-

Triple stitched construction Heavy cotton waistband and pockets Embossed Initial Denim buttons

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turer on a smaller production scale. I hope this changes over time, as it has in other countries, but for now the supply simply isn’t there. We’re keeping everything inhouse so that we can guarantee the high quality that we are looking for,” said Andrew.

Initial Denim shares a store space of over 160m2 with ready-to-wear brand Pistols at Dawn, on James Street in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley. The Pistols at Dawn collection includes a range of handmade shirts, jackets, pants and accessories as a quicker alternative to the more customised garments offered by The Cloakroom.

Fully re-inforced button holes Chainstitch finishing

t h e p ro c e s s #1 F a b r i c Select your fabric from our collection of Italian, Japanese, American and Turkish denim. #2 F i t Select your preferred cut from our three Initial Denim styles and let us tailor the fit to your exact measurements #3 F i n i s h e s Get creative with the buttons,

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A lot of our customers don’t need to be in a suit every day, so with this new store we offer a garment that every guy should have in his wardrobe

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stitching, rivet and pocket details to create your very own personalised jeans. #4 F i t t i n g Try on a basted version of your jeans before they are finished to ensure they fit perfectly. #5 F i n Your new Initial Denim made-tomeasure jeans are now ready to hit the streets.

wedding Wear Words by Ben Messina Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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he wedding season is fast approaching and for many of us, a weekend wedding is a welcome change from the Sunday trip to Bunnings. Weddings provide a great chance to catch up with family and old friends and with a few staples in your wardrobe, dressing for such occasions need never faze you again.

Black Tie or Dinner Jacket* – To be traditionally correct a man should wear black trousers, a black dinner jacket, waistcoat and black shoes. Worn with a white dress shirt with a pique or pintucked front, a hand tied bow tie and cufflinks. Fabric choice is key when commissioning a dinner suit. Look for either plain black or something with a subtle texture that absorbs light. This will ensure that when photographed, the fabric will not appear shiny. For the more intrepid,

navy is a great alternative, but generally more appropriate for a ball, New Year’s Eve party or awards night.

Formal - Any variation of a three-piece suit. For daytime weddings lose the tie for a more laidback feel.

The choice of suiting fabric again is key so opt for more vibrant blues or if you do decide to wear charcoal, look for something with a faint pattern or subtle check that incorporates a secondary colour. One of the major benefits of wearing a three-piece suit is that as the night progresses and the jacket inevitably comes off on the dance floor, you still look finished. Avoid wearing a belt, as it disrupts the line of the suit and overall silhouette.

Cocktail or Lounge - Always wear a jacket and tie. You can personalise your jacket with overt styling choices such as peak lapels and exterior patch pockets,

F ro m l e f t, c lo c kw i s e:

See first image

Dormeuil navy "Amadeus" three-piece suit $3000; Cloakroom white twill shirt $280, wool/ cashmere tie $125, white pocket square $35

Carmina burgundy oxford brogue $650

Cloakroom bib front tuxedo shirt $285, silk bow tie $125

Dormeuil grey "Ice" three-piece suit $3250, silk knit tie $175; Cloakroom white twill shirt $280, white pocket square $35 Dormeuil silk tie $165

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which make it feel like you’re not wearing half a suit.

Trousers should not match, but complement the jacket colour. Opt for a polished cotton rather than drill, so that you don’t look too casual. Finally, don’t choose the same tie that you wear to the office. Instead go for either a silk knit or wool/silk blend, which will help set you apart.

The most important rule to follow when dressing for a wedding is not to draw attention away from the bride and groom. It’s their big day so take a back seat, wear something classic and enjoy the open bar. *To be pedantic, a monochrome formal suit is known as a dinner suit and only a white jacket/black trouser combination can technically be called a tuxedo. Bonus points for you at the next pub trivia night.

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The Cloakroom is always excited to be a part of a couple's special wedding day. Here are some recent favourites (from left, clockwise).

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1. Sofia and Ben got married on the Sunshine Coast. Ben wore a Dormeuil Jade three-piece suit and Dormeuil silk bow tie. Photo by Simon Peter Taylor.

2. Emma and Sam got married in Positano, Italy. Sam wore a blue Prince of Wales check wool suit, silk tie and tan Grenson shoes. Photo by Massimo from Positano.

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3. Lauren and Leigh got married at Buderim. Leigh's groomsmen wore cotton pants, white shirts and wool/ linen/silk waistcoats. Leigh wore a Super 180s Italian three-piece wool suit. Photo by Todd Hunter McGaw.

navigating denim care Words by Linda Luo Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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he “rules” behind the care of denim jeans sometimes feel like a game of schoolyard whispers that has gotten out of hand. Different brands recommend different processes, which in the end don’t always relate to the challenges of an Australian summer. French brand A.P.C suggests swimming in the ocean with your jeans on, while Acne suggests freezing your denim to kill bacteria and eliminate odours, and some die-hard fans swear not to wash their raw denim ever.

If you read between the lines, it is usually recommended that new jeans are “broken in” by being worn for a period of time before their first wash. To some this means 12 months, but speaking more practically, you can wash your jeans after the first 20-30 wears.

Go longer than a year without washing and as well as

turning heads with your strange odour, you run the risk of certain parts of the jeans wearing through or ripping due to a build up of sweat and salt.

Whether you intend to keep your jeans as blue as new or you are after that “second skin” effect where every fade and crease tells a story, you need to first find out what type of denim you own.

Distressed jeans have been through a wash to purposefully fade the denim and give a vintage look.

What you buy is what you get with little to no change in colour expected. › When washing distressed jeans, turn the denims inside out and wash in cold water with minimal powder.

This will maximise the lifespan of the jeans.

Raw denim has a rigid, stiff texture. Sanforised raw denim has been pre-washed to reduce shrinkage, while

Did you know › With selvedge (self-edge) denim, the end of the woven fabric is finished to prevent unravelling. › Raw denim is not the same thing as selvedge. Raw relates to the wash of the jeans while selvedge is about the edge of the fabric. If you roll up the cuff of your jeans, you’ll be able to see if they are selvedge. The self-edge is often stitched in a different coloured thread such as red or yellow. › Traditional denim makers (mostly Japanese) dye their fabric with real indigo and not synthetic dyes. Dipping the fabric into vats indigo, this dye process can be repeated up to 15-20 times; until the desired hue is achieved. › Standard denim ranges from 7-12 ounces in weight. Some Japanese selvedge weighs up to 18 ounces and can stand upright, unassisted (before their first wash). › People buying raw denim are generally looking to create their own personal fade and wrinkle lines and creases. The jeans fade to the lines of your body and these tell the story of your wear in them. › "Whiskers" are creases that appear on the upper thigh, while "honeycombs" are creases behind the knees.

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un-sanforised jeans will shrink up to 10% when first washed. Raw denim jeans are not usually washed for at least 5-6 months to ensure your body puts its unique mark on the shape. One sign of this is the fade and crease lines that appear over time based on your wear. › Turn your jeans inside out and run a bath of cold water. Stir in 2 tablespoons of salt for every 4 litres of water or alternately use a denim cleaning product such as Woolite. Submerge your jeans in water and put something heavy on them if they float to the surface.

Soak for 1 hour, occasionally agitating with your hand.

When finished, rinse the jeans with clean cold water and gently squeeze as much water out of the fabric as possible. Dry flat on a towel in the shade.

The less frequently you wash your jeans, the longer they will last.

Pistols at Dawn's New collection Words by Michael McAtomney Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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he recent opening of the new Pistols at Dawn store also sees the introduction of a new collection. After a hugely successful capsule Kimono collection late in 2012, the latest range goes back to the brand’s core, offering a wide variety of handmade shirts, chinos, jackets and accessories.

Key pieces from the range include velvet jackets in navy and olive green which bring with them a distinct change in styling for anyone looking to expand their wardrobe beyond the traditional suit or blazer.

Keeping quality as the highest of priorities, the on-going partnership between Pistols at Dawn and French fabric house Dormeuil means a luxurious range

of textiles are used throughout the range. This season also sees the introduction of an exclusive line of limited edition shirting made by revered English (now Italian) fabric maker Thomas Mason. Standouts include gingham checks in brown and dark green as well as lighter colours in textured chambray weaves. The ability to mix and match pieces from the collection offers complete versatility between work and leisure with looks easily transitioning from smart casual to formal.

The Pistols at Dawn range is entirely hand made with the option of made-to-measure available on all pieces upon request.

above: Dormeuil check jacket $1495, silk knit tie $175; blue chambray shirt $200, navy cotton drill pants $395, white pocket square $35.

Special thanks to Geraldine Cleary. All images photographed in the "D House" (Donovan Hill Architects 2000). Model Dan Young.

right: Brown velvet jacket $1195, cotton/cashmere sweater $220, grey check shirt $200.

All items available at: Pistols at Dawn Shop 11, 46 James St. Fortitude Valley 617 3257 3300 • www.pistolsatdawn.com.au

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Grey check shirt $200, navy cotton drill pants $395; Carmina navy suede loafers $550

Wool/linen jacket $1095, brown linen shirt $200, beige cotton drill pants $395

left: Navy linen shirt $200, beige cotton drill pants $395, Carmina brown oxford brogue $650 Wool/linen jacket $995, purple check shirt $200, navy cotton drill pants $395; Carmina navy suede loafers $550

Q&A with Darren Lockyer Interview by Michael McAtomney

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n the wake of an eighth consecutive State of Origin series win by Queensland, Michael McAtomney caught up with rugby league legend Darren Lockyer for some quick questions about his retirement, his future plans and being dressed by The Cloakroom.

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Michael McAtomney: How important is it for you to look and feel confident and comfortable in what you wear while in the media spotlight?

When I was doing press conferences and dressing up in a suit and tie, I consistently tried to make an effort to ensure that I was clean - shaven.

DARREN LOCKYER: Presentation has always been a big part of my lifestyle. When I was playing as the captain of various teams, I was representing my club, state or country so I always felt that how I presented myself was important. When working in a media role, I believe the same holds true and a big part of this is being comfortable in what you’re wearing.

MM: Your career spanned 17 seasons without once being charged or suspended by a judiciary.

How much pressure is there on sports stars to act as role models for the wider community in 2013 and do you believe it’s justified?

DL: There is a lot of pressure on young footballers, and when they’re just starting out in their careers it’s very hard for them to go straight into being a role model. As players get older, they become a bit like elder statesmen and they can become not only role models for younger players but also for society. That’s really something that players learn over time.

MM: With a growing interest in design, how does being tailored by The Cloakroom allow you to express more of your personality through your clothing?

DL: To be honest, before seeing the boys at The Cloakroom I didn’t really appreciate what a good suit was all about. Along the way you’re given a suit for this team and that team and obviously when you’re fitting out twenty players and twelve staff, it can become a cost thing. I first went and saw The Cloakroom when doing a piece for the Courier Mail, which the guys supplied suiting for, and it all went from there. I have always appreciated quality and I knew that their clothing was really, really good. I have developed a great relationship with the guys and continue to work with them.

your retirement from the game?

MM: If you had to quickly choose one highlight of your sporting career, what would it be?

DL: When I first went in and saw The Cloakroom boys, it was the whole no belt thing. It really puzzled me at first as it just felt wrong but it is so much easier not worrying about a belt. That has been a Cloakroom trait that I have taken on-board and I don’t think I have worn a belt with either jeans or trousers since.

DL: The great thing that elite sport teaches you is to get the process right and to pay attention to detail, which leads to success. Whether it’s for business, family or work, I have been able apply the principles that I learned from playing elite sport to all aspects of my life, which has been really beneficial.

MM: What is the best piece of style advice you have ever received?

DL: It’s hard to go past the 2006 State of Origin win in game three. It was a memorable moment because Queensland hadn’t won a series for a while and there was a lot of pressure on us. I think it was also a really crucial play for me personally. It was almost like a crossroads and if the result hadn’t been what it was, things could have been very different.

MM: Has the way you dress and present yourself always been something of concern or is it something that has emerged and been of greater importance throughout your playing career?

po s t- s po rt s ty l e Former Liverpool poster boy Jamie Redknapp had a reputation as being more concerned with the catwalk than his football. At the height of his career, he modelled for the likes of Armani and Top Man. Post football (now a commentator) he's often seen cutting a figure in grey, navy or black suits.

DL: I have always had an interest in style. When I was doing press conferences and dressing up in a suit and tie, I consistently tried to make an effort to ensure that I was clean-shaven; just little things like that. I guess beyond my playing days, I have been exposed to more in the quality stakes when it comes to suits etcetera. I appreciate the workmanship of The Cloakroom suits a lot more and the great thing is, you only need to have a few which you can rotate for different occasions. It is amazing how many comments I receive on the suits that I wear.

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MM: New or old, what is the one item of clothing in your wardrobe you could never live without?

MM: After such a decorated and presumably full-on playing career, what aspects of your private life have you begun to focus on more since

DL: A nice white shirt. A simple plain crisp white shirt is something I am always looking for, especially a fresh one.

Monocle Magazine editor-at-large Hidetoshi Nakata is someone who knows how to put an outfit together.

Since his playing days came to end he has appeared in both the US and Japanese GQ and modelled for Calvin Klein’s 2010 underwear campaign. He often attends fashion shows, pulling off the perfect combination of subdued tailoring mixed with smart-casual.

Now in his late 40s, former Italian football star and recently sacked Manchester City manager Roberto Mancini remains a style icon and is often seen in a clean-cut suit of black or dark navy and trademark scarf. Mancini possessed such an iconic following throughout his time at Man City that he released a ‘Manager’s Range’ of scarves in blue and white.

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hong kong HQ Photos by Andrew Byrne & Elisabeth Willis

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ong Kong is the hub for so many of the players in the clothing world and some of the best suppliers have an office on the ground. One of the Cloakroom partners recently took a trip to their new office in Tsim Sha Tsui to catch up with existing suppliers, including Italian fabric houses who carry suiting and shirting, as well to explore new options available in a quest to find the best.

Japanese denim maker Kaihara, famous for their traditional indigo dip dyeing and selvedged fabrics, were able to show their full range without the limitations of distance or technology. From waxy polished indigo to heavy weight slubby denim, their offering is extensive and very desirable.

The trip also enabled The Cloakroom to finally get their hands on Turkey’s finest – Soktas. Shirting weavers of the highest calibre, their “Bespoke Collection” now sits proudly on the shelf at The Cloakroom. On offer, a luxurious collection of shirting ranging all the way up to Super 120s (if you like it fine), with a selection that transitions from the very formal to the weekend. Soktas work only with the world’s finest Egyptian Giza cotton and use only the purest and longest fibres to produce fabrics of unparalleled softness.

FROM LEFT, CLOCKWISE: Denim at the Kaihara showroom Selecting leather for the Initial Denim jeans patches Swatches from the Soktas "Bespoke Collection"

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BLUe InDIgO

Jeans are a staple in any modern wardrobe. They’re versatile, comfortable and can be easily adapted to suit different dress codes. Here are a few basics ways to style your denims.

Photos by Elisabeth Willis

1. ca s u a l f r i day: s L I M C u T, dA R K d E n I M

2. o u t to d i n n e r: s T RA I G H T L E G

3. s u n day a f t e r n o o n: R E LAX E d s T R E TC H

A dark pair of raw denim jeans is a great solution for smart casual. Combine with a gingham shirt, knitted tie and brown jacket.

Try combining indigo jeans with a lightweight knit and a button-up shirt.

Sunday afternoon doesn’t call for careful styling.

Wear a relaxed pair of stretch denims with a chambray or linen shirt.

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T h e D e ta i l s Ca s u a l F r i day Initial Denim jeans Pistols at Dawn wool/silk jacket Pistols at Dawn check shirt Dormeuil silk knit tie

Pistols at Dawn check shirt Carmina suede loafers S u n day A f t e r n o o n Initial Denim jeans Pistols at Dawn chambray shirt

O u t to D i n n e r Initial Denim jeans Pistols at Dawn cotton/cashmere sweater

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CLASSiC VELVET Words by Claire Banks Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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Colour: Muted colours work well with velvet. not only do they enhance the lustre of the fabric but help avoid the impression of “fluffiness” that is often associated with lighter imitation velvets. We’re loath to use the term, but “jewel tones” work best - burgundy, dark blues and greens. Swap a dinner jacket for navy velvet and finish it with a bow tie, or pare down an olive green jacket with a more casual checked shirt and jeans. For a more relaxed look, wear a velvet jacket with a linen shirt and scarf.

raditionally associated with aristocracy and nobility, velvet makes a statement.

Whether it be a simple velvet collar trim on a jacket, a bow tie, embroidered slippers or an entire suit, it is a rich and luxurious fabric. Velvet can be a little tricky to style so here are a few guidelines to get you started.

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A cRIsP WhIte shIRt AND A PAIR Of DARk JeANs cOMbINeD WIth A velvet JAcket cReAtes A sMARt effORtless lOOk.

Cut and fit: Velvet can be unforgiving if not cut properly so make sure you don’t compromise on fit.

Velvet is a woven tufted short pile, which is a complicated fabric. it is therefore essential to make sure the jacket sits well across the shoulders (not too wide) and through the body (clean and nipped).

Pistols at Dawn navy velvet jacket $1195 (also available in olive green),\; blue chambray shirt $200;

Minimalism: Keep it simple and let the fabric take centre stage. A crisp white shirt and a pair of dark jeans combined with a velvet jacket creates a smart effortless look.

blue wool/silk check scarf $125 and cloakroom pocket square $35

the perfect manhattan Words by Justin Hertzman Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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he Manhattan is a classic cocktail with a history as rich and distinctive as each of its components. Legend would have us believe that the iconic drink was invented in new York’s Manhattan Club in 1874 at the request of Sir Winston Churchill’s mother, Lady Randolf Churchill, to celebrate newly elected governor Samuel J. Tilden. Later reports show that Lady Randolf was actually on the other side of the pond, about to give birth to her son. Another tale credits a man called Black, who owned a bar on Houston St. in the 1860’s. Regardless of its origins, the cocktail is infamous the world over and pre-dates the Martini (which is also made using vermouth).

Like all cocktails, the Manhattan suffered most during the dark ages of prohibition. Whiskey became scarce, forcing mixologists to find a suitable replacement. With few alternatives available they turned to Canadian Whiskey, which was seen as an inferior alternative by Manhattan-drinking purists.

As soon as the 18th Amendment was lifted Americans celebrated the return of their iconic cocktail, made once more with home-grown liquor. The Manhattan was reborn and later refined using Bourbon, Vermouth and Bitters, all garnished with a Maraschino cherry.

INGReDIeNts

MethOD

2.5 parts bourbon 1 part Vermouth 3 dashes of Angostura Bitters 1 maraschino cherry

Add a generous amount of ice to a mixing glass. Pour in the ingredients and allow to chill for 15-20 seconds. Strain into a well chilled cocktail glass (or lowball tumbler), and garnish with a cherry.

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THe BLOOD AnD SecreTS BeHInD SILK Words by inga Read Photo by Luis Zakharoff • Illustration by Linda Luo

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uxurious and lightweight, warm in cool weather and cool in warm weather, silk is a unique fabric. First created by the chinese, silk production (Sericulture) was zealously guarded for more than two thousand years. It was worlds apart from the felt and flax commonly used at that time and those found guilty of sharing production secrets were put to death.

Silk’s story is a unique one and showcases another of nature’s miracles. The humble Bombyx moriis, a blind and flightless moth is where it all begins. The Bombyx is fattened up on mulberry leaves as it goes about creating one of the most treasured natural fibres. The female moth can lay 500 or more eggs in around six days, and one of these eggs can generate about 30,000 worms that at their peak can produce over 5 kilograms of raw

silk. This particular sub-species of moth is preferred to others as it produces the smoothest and finest thread of all moths.

While production methods have changed over time and uses for the textile now cover everything from parachutes to bow ties, silk still retains a sense of old world gallantry and nobility. Despite man-made fibres replacing silk for many uses, silk production has almost doubled in the last few decades. china remains the major producer and along with Japan accounts for 50% of the world’s silk production.

French fabric makers, Dormeuil, produce several collections using silk as a key ingredient. These combination fabrics have a brightness and lustre that we so commonly associate with silk. They are soft, lightweight and particularly well suited to warmer weather climates

such as Australia.

A Cloakroom favourite from Dormeuil is the Dorsilk line, a lightweight and lustrious mix of wool and silk (55% wool 45% silk). Dorsilk was created for lightweight jackets and comes in a range of designs from checks to heavily textured open weave designs. At the top end of Dormeuil’s fabric offering is the Silk-Pashmina collection. This luxurious cloth is made using an equal 50/50 split of these two fibres. Pashmina is a rare and sought after fabric that comes from the Pashmina goat of northern Asia and is considered one of the softest yarns in the world. When woven together with silk the resulting fabric has an elegant shine and astonishing softness not seen in other materials.

t h e s i l k roa d: Around 200BC the silk Road was established, connecting Asia with Europe to enable trade on a huge scale. Within decades of commerce doing its part, the Roman Emperor Heliogabalus was said to have worn nothing but silk.

The textile retained a supreme status within Roman society with the best tunic rumoured to cost as much as a soldier's annual salary. when the Romans realised just how much gold was leaving the country for imports, they tried to ban silk trade with China to stem the flow of capital. The first Silk War broke out (1392-1402) and left both the Roman and Chinese empires weak and vulnerable. The Vietnamese, Koreans, Mongols and Tibetans overthrew their Chinese rulers and gained independence. Meanwhile a weak Rome lost control of the Germanic tribes, the Kingdom of Britannia and the union of scandinavia.

These conflicts helped shape the borders that currently exist today.

d i d yo u k n oW

loot which included 4000 tunics of silk.

› Silk is the strongest natural fibre known to man.

› It's been said that a roomful of feeding silkworms sounds like rain on the roof.

› The silkworm’s cocoon is made of a continuous thread of silk approximately one kilometre long.

This theoretically means that ten unravelled cocoons could reach the height of Mount Everest.

› Silk has a low density making it highly moisture absorbent and able to hold up to a third of its own weight without feeling damp.

› Rome was once spared from a Goth siege for a

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mOTHer OF PeArL Words by Andrew Byrne Photos by Elisabeth Willis

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raditionally, decorative buttons are made from wood, bone, horn and mother of pearl.

Perhaps the most interesting of these four is mother of pearl, or nacre, which is the iridescent inner shell found in some mollusks (most commonly abalone, clam, mussel and agoya). mollusks have soft flesh and this nacre layer helps defend their tissue from parasites and debris. mollusks secrete conchiolin, a protein similar to silk, and aragonite crystals form on this layer. This process continues over time until there are multiple layers of both conchiolin and aragonite, making the shell thick,

strong and flexible. It’s these crystals that give the nacre it’s iridescence and like all natural substances, each shell is completely different, making for one-of-a-kind buttons and jewellery. mother of pearl has been used extensively in jewellery production for centuries and traditionally caviar spoons are also made from mother of pearl as metal spoons spoil the flavour. mother of pearl comes in several natural colours, but is often bleached and dyed for decorative use. The dye retains the shimmering layers, which make the material so sought after.

p e a r l c i ty The actual manufacture of mother of pearl buttons is fascinating and in its early form included soaking the nacre in water for a week to soften it and thus avoid splintering when being cut.

The American town of Muscatine in Iowa established itself as the world capital for freshwater pearl production during the late 19th and early 20th century as factories there harvested shell from the nearby Mississippi River. The city is still informally known as the "Pearl City" and at its peak employed almost half of the town.

All Cloakroom garments are finished with the finest mother of pearl or reindeer horn buttons.

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h oW to i ro n a d r e s s s h i rt

the inside and then the outside - move between the buttons and not over them.

4. Iron the shirt fronts starting with the side that has buttons.

5. Move onto the back of the shirt, working your way from the top down to the bottom.

1. dampen the shirt with water 2. Pop the collar and iron the inside and then move onto the outside.

3. Un-button the shirt cuffs and lay them at. Iron

T H E C LOA K RO O M s TA n dA R d

6. Iron the shirt sleeves. start at the top and iron down towards the cuff. Flip the sleeve over and iron the other side.

7. One final hit on the outside of the collar and voila!

the cloakroom

pistols at daWn

initial denim

h a n d ta i lo r e d s h i rt s $260-595 Handmade shirts created using the finest Italian and Turkish cottons.

r e a dy to W e a r s h i rt s $200-260 Handmade shirts created using the finest Italian cottons.

h a n d ta i lo r e d j ac k e t s $995-2500 Handmade jackets with a fully canvassed construction made in the highest quality Italian, French and English fabrics.

r e a dy to W e a r j ac k e t s $795-1495 Handmade jackets with a fully canvassed construction made in the highest quality Italian, French and English fabrics.

Limited edition handmade jackets made in vintage Yukata kimono cotton from Japan.

m a d e to m e a s u r e j e a n s $295-475 Handmade jeans finished with a triple stitch and chainstitch construction made in the highest quality usA, Japanese, Turkish and Italian denim and canvas.

h a n d ta i lo r e d s u i t s $1650-6500 Handmade suits with a fully canvassed construction made in the highest quality Italian, French and English fabrics. s h o e s a n d acc e s s o r i e s Creed fragrance, Carmina shoes, Dormeuil ties, Abbeyhorn shoehorns and saphir polish.

104 Edward st.

Brisbane, QLd 4000 617 3210 1515 www.thecloakroom.com.au

r e a dy to W e a r pa n t s $325-395 Handmade cotton pants made in the highest quality Italian fabric. *Made to measure on all items +20% s h o e s a n d acc e s s o r i e s Creed fragrance, Carmina shoes, Dormeuil ties and a selection of books and periodicals.

Shop 11, 46 James St. Fortitude Valley, QLD 4006 617 3257 3300 www.pistolsatdawn.com.au

w w w.T H E C LOA K RO O M.CO M.A u

Shop 11, 46 James St. Fortitude Valley, QLD 4006 617 3257 3300 www.initialdenim.com