issUe 7, 2015
STANDARD
the QlD reDs 2015
Cloakroom hats
Carmina shoes
winter ties
The new off-ďŹ eld ensemble
Upcoming hat collection
Made-to-order shoe service
Dormeuil's Autumn / Winter selection
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contents The Qld reds 2015 Off-field kit
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Sporting trivia Biggest wins, losses and winning streaks
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Hats The new Cloakroom range
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Dormeuil ties Autumn / Winter collection
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burgundy Wines from the French region
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Carmina made-to-order 16 Design your own shoes Tineola bisselliella The clothes hungry moth
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Maison Cloakroom New Canadian HQ
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The city of Montreal At a glance
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Patent Leather Manufacturing process
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editorial director Hannah Byrne
unstructured jackets The Italian style
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design & layout Hannah Byrne
mohair The resilient fabric
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Photography Elisabeth Willis elisabethwillis.com Sacha Iovino sachaiovino.com
Cover: photo by Elisabeth Willis This page: title photo by Sacha Iovino
Contributors
Illustrations Josh Kim Writers Hannah Byrne Andrew Byrne Justin Hertzman Jackson Byrne Alex Messina Adam Boevink Alex Leggett Leif Lyons The cloakroom Andrew Byrne Louis Ialenti Lachlan Sinclair Mitchell Humphris Leif Lyons Josh Kim Axelle Beaujean
All contents of this magazine are copyrighted Š2015 The Cloakroom Australia Pty. Ltd. / 104 Edward St. Brisbane, QLD 4000. Reproduction of editorial is strictly prohibited without prior permission of The Cloakroom Aus. Pty. Ltd.
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St. George QLD Reds 2015 The Cloakroom dresses the squad for the fourth consecutive year Words by Andrew Byrne • Photos by Elisabeth Willis
The 2015 look is finished with a pair of handcrafted jeans in Japanese selvedge denim. Branded elements include red buttons, burgundy stitching and a red and white leather patch on the back pocket. Selvedge denim is made on traditional narrow shuttle looms and is tightly woven, making for an especially strong finish. Traditional dyeing methods are used with fabrics dipped into baths of indigo to give them a rich colour and a unique texture. The Cloakroom designed the 2014 QLD Reds official team suit in a mix of mohair and merino wool. This fabric makes it ideal for the heavy travel schedule of the squad. Pieces from this suit can be paired with the 2015 collection to create more diversified looks for different occasions. The suit pants can be worn with the bomber jacket as a more casual alternative to a full suit. Alternatively jeans can be dressed up with the suit jacket.
The bomber jacket is made from a unique Italian tech fabric that is eternally cool, even in summer, while being warm and insulated in winter.
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he Cloakroom has for the fourth consecutive year designed the official off-field outfit for the St. George QLD Reds. The 2015 outfit takes the team into a more fashion forward look with a bomber jacket, dark denim jeans and a light blue shirt. The standout piece of the 2015 Reds outfit is the bomber jacket. The jacket is made from a unique Italian tech fabric that is eternally cool, even in summer, while being warm and insulated in winter. The bomber has been designed in a deep navy (Reds heritage colour) and has been branded with the QLD Reds crest, which like the 2014 suit jacket is stitched onto the chest. This reinforces the branding of the piece, while tying in elements of the 2014 and 2015 looks. The jacket is entirely hand made and is finished internally with bemberg lining. The bomber is worn with a light blue chambray shirt made from a soft Italian cotton, which is ideal for the Australian climate.
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q1882 capsule collection Words by Andrew Byrne Photos by Elisabeth Willis
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o coincide with the launch of the new 2015 season an exclusive collection will be released and available in limited edition quantities. This range will comprise all the pieces designed for the players, but will be branded with a new detail - the tri-colour heritage bar. This new element will distinguish the range from the player’s pieces. The capsule collection will retail through The Cloakroom, allowing fans to emulate the look of their favourite player in a range of stylish fashion pieces. The pieces will be produced in limited quantities, making them the ultimate collector’s item. 2
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1. The 2015 outfit at Ballymore Stadium, QLD Reds HQ 2. Red and white leather patch on the back of every pairs of jeans 3. Light blue shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons 4. The player's name hand-embroidered inside the bomber jacket
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18-hole Championship Hamilton Island Golf Club
c Gary Lisbon
When we told Peter Thomson, five-time British Open winner, that we’d like a rather special course here on Hamilton Island, he smiled and said “I’ll design you a course that’s as dramatic and breathtaking as the outlook it enjoys”. And he succeeded. From the challenging fairways to a Clubhouse with 5-star cuisine, the golf here is already legendary. But that’s just the tee off. Next comes some of the world’s best sailing, diving, fishing and kayaking, plus a range of hotels including the award-winning qualia, as well as a choice of restaurants. All of this, just a short direct flight from most major Australian cities. Experience the Hamilton Island Golf Club with our Golf and Spa Package, including 4 nights accommodation, daily buffet breakfast, an 18-hole round of golf, a massage at the island day spa and more. Call us now on 137 333 or visit hamiltonisland.com.au
Find yourself at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef
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sPorting tales Words by Jackson Byrne
Upsets Mike Tyson in february 1990 Mike tyson, the undisputed heavyweight champion of the world, was set to take on the unheralded James "buster" douglas in tokyo. tyson was already being hailed as one of the great heavyweights of all time, and all eyes were on a future bout against then-undefeated Evander Holyfield. Only one Las Vegas casino would even lay odds on the fight and listed Buster as a 42-to-1 underdog. the challenger survived a suspiciously long count when knocked down in the eighth round, to Ko the champ in the tenth. douglas reigned supreme over the heavyweight division until his first title defence, when soundly beaten by Evander Holyfield in three rounds.
Comebacks
The weird Rafael Nadal Professional sports people are required to spend most of their careers training, honing and perfecting the same few skills over and over again. this produces some quirky individuals, none more so than tennis pro rafael nadal. the superstitious spaniard has a cold shower 45 minutes before each match, wears both socks at exactly the same height, carries one racquet onto court with five more racquets in his bag, places two water bottles, one cold, one warm, in a straight line on the ground, labels facing towards the end of the court from which he is about to play, sprints to the baseline after the coin toss, with a split step then a jog around the back court, never walks on the sidelines – as if avoiding cracks
on a pavement, bounces the ball between 10 and twelve times before every serve, wipes his face and both arms with a towel after every point including an ace or double fault, never gets off his chair until his opponent has and the list goes on. While success has brought fame and fortune, one can only image what it is like to be stuck inside the very strange mind of rafael nadal.
Highest Revenue
Winning Streaks
Real Madrid
Squash
real Madrid football club turned over a handsome 549.5 million euros for 20132014, season eking out a rather more modest 36.9 million Euro profit (6%), due in part to the hundreds of millions of euros worth of talent hired to warm the bench.
the longest recorded winning streak in any professional sport belongs to Pakistani Jahangir Khan's 555 consecutive wins from 1981 to 1986. a sickly child whom doctors advised not to take part in any physical activity of any kind, Khan built up incredible stamina, grinding his hapless opponents into submission with long rallies played at a breakneck pace.
Charlton Athletic What seemed a humdrum second division soccer match between Charlton Athletic and Huddersfield Town in December 1957 turned into one of the greatest sporting comebacks of all time. the seeming outclassed Charlton were reduced to 10 men by injury after 15 minutes before falling 5-1 behind by the 62nd minute. incredibly, five goals from Johnny Summers, who changed his boots at half time as his old pair was coming apart at the seams, saw the score levelled at 6-6 before John ryan poached the winner with the very last kick of the match.
Losing streaks and droughts San Marino the tiny republic of san Marino, renowned for its wine and cheese, is the owner of an unenviable losing streak in international soccer. between 2004 and 2014 they lost 61 consecutive games, scoring 8 goals while conceding 277. The drought was finally broken when they held estonia to a 0-0 draw while attempting to qualify for euro 2016. Despite fielding many competitive teams, the Chicago Cubs have not won a baseball world series since 1908. this lengthy drought can be best attributed to the curse of the billy goat, invoked when the Cubs ejected an opposing team’s unofficial mascot, a billy goat, from the stadium due to an unfavourable odour. the goat’s owner promptly sent a telegram that read, “you are never going to win a World series again because you insulted my goat.” numerous priests have since blessed the stadium in the vain hope of turning the fortunes of the Cubs around. several live goats and even goat heads have also been brought into the offending venue in attempts to break the curse, alas to no avail.
Horse racing the pint sized Camero won 56 races in a row between april 1953 and august 1955 in racing mad Puerto rico. due to the prohibitive nature of his odds and a quirky local gambling law, no betting was allowed on the champ for the majority of his career. over 10,000 fans did attend his funeral though. He tasted the bitterness of defeat only thrice during his 76 start career.
English national soccer team although boasting one of the world’s strongest domestic leagues, the english national soccer team has not won a major title since 1966, the year a baby faced ronald reagan burst onto the Californian political scene. sixteen extremely well remunerated local and international managers have come and gone during this lengthy drought, none able to placate a football-obsessed public by winning something, anything. one desperate manager, glenn Hoddle, enlisted the help of a faith healer and had staff walk anti-clockwise around the pitch before matches to generate positive energy flows with limited success. as some perverse consolation, english soccer fans are widely considered the world champions of hooliganism. Rabbitohs the south sydney rabbitohs happily broke a 43 year drought when they hoisted the nrl trophy in season 2014. the club has faced bankruptcy, removal from the competition, corruption and scandal during the dry years, but bunny fans who kept the faith were delirious when the rain finally fell.
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cloakroom hats A sneak peak at the upcoming handmade hat collection Words by Leif Lyons • Photos by Hannah Byrne
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hroughout history men have worn variations of headdress for different cultural, religious, symbolic and functional reasons. Hats have been used to denote military rank, religious or social status and more prosaically, to simply keep out the weather. First depicted by the ancient Egyptians, the hat we know today began to take its shape in the early part of the 18th century. Traditionally, the highest quality hats were made in Milan (where the name ‘milliner’ originates from) out of wool or fur felt. As these variations of headdress became more refined, hats became less about military or monarchical rank, and more of an opportunity to make a fashion statement. What started largely as a practical piece of attire to provide shade from the elements has, over time, come to represent a symbol of style. There was a time when all
men wore hats from Princes, chimney sweeps, to gangsters alike. They were popularised as an item of style in the early to middle part of last century through movies, books and popular culture. Many characters of fiction would simply not hold the same status without their hats - think Humphrey Bogart in his classic detective roles, trench coat with its collar up, blank expression, eyes piercing from beneath a black fedora sitting at a jaunty angle. Or Marlon Brando in ‘On the waterfront,’ his hatless head denoting his goodness and innocence, pleading with the evil hatted gangster about how he “coulda been a contender.” The most iconic hat is without doubt the fedora, first made popular by the Duke of Windsor during the roaring 20’s, when he began wearing what had originally been a style designed for women in the latter part of the
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19th century. The fedora, which takes its name from Victorien Sardou’s 1882 play, soon became the most popular style of hat and was later adopted by the infamous gangsters of the 1930’s and 40’s. By the 1960’s the pendulum of history had swung and the hat and its popularity began to die as menswear moved away from clean cut, slick short haircuts and suits to the long-haired, relaxed and free flowing experimental style of the hippie movement. Today we see a resurgence of classic fashion and style with a return to all things sartorially dapper. TV shows such as ‘Mad Men,’ musicians including Pharrell Williams and actors such as Johnny Depp are at the forefront of this revival, showing a younger generation a new way to wear a classic style.
Cloakroom collection The Cloakroom is currently collaborating on a selection of handmade hats. Brisbane milliner Felicity Boevink is crafting the hats, using the finest materials and following time-honed tailoring methods. With over 20 years experience, Felicity produces hats of the highest quality, spending upwards of 10 hours on each piece. The Cloakroom hats will be crafted using a handmade wooden hat block, commissioned exclusively by a master maker in Adelaide whose clients include one hat shop in Hawaii whose panamas can sell for up to $25000 each. The hats are made from rabbit fur felt, the world’s most durable felt with a soft resilience that dyes well. The fur is hand stiffened, creating a pliable finish and ensuring the pieces don’t have a cardboard-like texture. Poorly crafted hats are stiffened with resin and consequently never soften and mould to fit the wearer’s head. Rabbit fur hats gradually take on the shape of the head, just like a canvassed suit becomes an extension of the wearer with the passage of time. Rabbit fur is incredibly durable and when cared for properly, will last multiple lifetimes. The Cloakroom hats will come in a variety of colours and will be available for sale from mid April.
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Hats were popularised as an item of style in the early to middle part of last century through movies, books and popular culture.
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Dormeuil silk ties New collection for Autumn / Winter Words by Andrew Byrne • Photos by Elisabeth Willis & Hannah Byrne
As the season changes, it's easy to freshen up any tired wardrobe pieces with the addition of a new tie. The Cloakroom’s selection of Autumn / Winter ties from luxury French fabric makers Dormeuil is a collection of silk ties that includes different patterns and unique textures in a wide range of warm Wintery colours.
An extensive selection of Dormeuil ties is available at The Cloakroom. Prices range from $195-265.
Dormeuil is known for their luxury suiting fabrics and they scour the globe in search of the finest fibres and yarns available. The French company now also creates ties in different textures, weaves and jacquards. Their constantly evolving selection of ties come in a range of stripes, spots, paisleys and block colours. Dormeuil ties are produced from the finest silk and are thick and luxurious to the touch. The fabrics are rich in colour, bold in texture and reflect the light beautifully.
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burgundy Coveted wines from the Burgundy region of France Words and photos by Alex Messina
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y favourite wine region is burgundy. the birthplace of the world's most coveted Chardonnays (white) and Pinot noirs (red), this really is desert island drinking, but with a price to match. the world's demand for the best wines being made here far outstrips supply, resulting in stratospheric prices to own these incredibly rare wines. every year, a traditional Winter festival called the “saint-vincent tournante” is held for the guardian saint of wine in a different village of Burgundy. On a visit to burgundy in January, 2014 i was introduced to the beautifully decorated saint-aubin, whose turn it was to host festivities. saint-aubin is a modest village that produces good-value White burgundy. Pair this wine with any crustacean or fish, a rabbit ragoût, seasonal asparagus or cèpe mushrooms and a hollandaise sauce. the steely acidity and fragrant oak of the Chardonnay will set off seafood flavours and cut through the richness of a hearty stew or sauce, blending delightfully and refreshing the palate with each sip of wine. but saint-aubin has another side – whereas many appellations in burgundy only produce either red or white wine, it produces red burgundy as well. Pinot noir is a difficult grape to grow – the pursuit for perfection lies in its famed perfumed character, often suggestive of strawberries, other berries, and dark fruits. this exquisite perfume, when married with the oak tones imparted from the barrels in which the wine is matured results in a wine that must be tasted to be appreciated. the fragrance is profound, without any heaviness to the wine, but with outstanding length and subtlety on the palate. Match this with almost any legume, vegetable or roast bird (pigeon is my ultimate pairing), sausage, boar or red meat, and you're on your way to heaven! these are wines that must be tasted by anyone who wishes to understand what a particular "terroir" (the location, the soil, the climate) and the winemaker (who gives expression to the terroir) has to offer. Burgundy sets the benchmark for these two grape varieties, and once drunk, Chardonnay and Pinot noir can be fully understood and their magnificence appreciated.
This edition we welcome Alex Messina to our team. Alex’s passion for wine is unmatched and his website, Vincurable, is a must visit for any self respecting wine enthusiast. Vincurable represents a new way for wine collectors to build their cellars, with direct access to the world's marketplace for wines that are very often unavailable in Australia, including older vintages and both small and large bottling formats. on a recent trip to Burgundy, Alex visited Sylvain Cathiard's winery. in a location such as this the Vosne Romanée en orveaux is highly sought after and although it is best bought as a case (if one can be secured), affordability can be a huge obstacle. For this reason case-buying in partnership makes sense. Alex’s business enables wine lovers to do just that.
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carmina made-to-order Words by Hannah Byrne Photos by Elisabeth Willis
The Cloakroom offers a made-to-order Carmina shoe service. They provide the unique opportunity to create your very own shoes, designed to your specifications. Choose every detail including the last & style, sole and leather and the team of Carmina artisans will craft your shoes by hand.
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last & style
Carmina shoes are cut from a handmade wooden mould known as a last. Carmina have several lasts, accommodating different foot shapes from narrow to wide and everything in between.
Forest The Forest last has a rounder more English shape, which comes in both a regular width (E) as well as a slightly wider width (EE). simpson The Simpson last is an elegant model with a sleek and refined shape. The Simpson comes in a regular width (E) which works well for a narrower foot. Ra i n The Rain last is one of the most attractive Carminas. It can accommodate a variety of foot widths and not only looks great but feels comfortable. U e ta m The Uetam last is best suited to loafers. It is less formal in shape and a great shoe for most foot widths.
th i s pag e Loafers in suede green $550 Double monk straps in marine $650 Split toe Derby in tan $650 o ppo s i t e pag e: Full leather sole Tomir - half leather, half textured rubber
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e dmad e han s r s a e c s p ro hoe ina s -s t e p m 1 r 1 a n c a t wing the las f o l lo 1. Creating rn e t t a ep ing th ern t t a 2. Trac p e ting th rials 3 . Cr e a e m a te h t g in ct 4. Sele . Cutting 5 hing 6. Stitc ly mb soles 7. Asse s and w e elt h edges t e g hin ing th n e v e 8. Stitc or e elting d shin 9. De-w Painting an s e h . c 10 to u ishing 11. Fin
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leather
Carmina shoes are made from the finest French leather. Their Shell Cordovan is tanned by Horween Leather, based in Chicago. When treated properly, Shell Cordovan leather will last multiple lifetimes.
n at u ra l CAL F $950 G r e i n Ca l f $995 Pebble textured calf
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r u s t i Ca l f $950 Very soft calf leather S U E D E $850 S h e l l co r d ova n $1450 Horse-hide
sole
The sole of every pair of Carminas is made from layers of stacked leather, cork, metal reinforcement and can be finished with different options. These include the Tomir sole (pictured) which is a dense rubber that gives grip and protection from the elements.
L e at h e r: full leather sole Da i n i t e: rubber with circular grip To m i r: half leather, half textured rubber V i cto r i a: chunky rubber Yo r k: half leather, half rubber with circular perforations All Carmina shoes are entirely handmade with traditional Goodyear stitching, which means they can be re-soled time and time again.
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Tineola Bisselliella The pesky clothes eating moth Words by Adam Boevink • Photo by Charles Lam
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here’s nothing worse than putting on your favourite wardrobe item only to discover it’s been gotten by something that’s put holes in it. For thousands of years the common clothes moths Tineola bisselliella has been a source of endless frustration, feeding on and damaging clothes, furnishings, books, art works and other items prepared from animal materials and natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, silk, fur, leather and feathers. The origin and natural habitat of T. bisselliella is still obscure, but is today the most widespread moth throughout the world. The first English reference to the moth appeared in 1521, but earlier references are found in Roman and Greek literature and both the Old and New Testaments. Evolutionary specialisation has broadly removed the constraints to success faced by other plant feeding insects, such as wide temperature variations and seasonality of food supply. However, T. bisselliella are still capable of surviving an enormous range of environmental
conditions from -15C to 35C and relative humidity of up to 100%. The optimal conditions for survival and growth are between 20-35C and 50-70% relative humidity in locations with low light and low air ventilation that remain largely undisturbed. The overall life cycle of T. bisselliell from egg to egg typically takes 4–6 months but can be as little as one month under optimal conditions and is divided into three distinct stages: larval, pupae and adult. The larva hatch from eggs and seek out a suitable food source. They then spin a fine silken protective tube or case, which is extended as the larva feeds, grows and moves. When fully grown, the larva stops feeding and usually spins a tough, spindle-shaped, silken cocoon in which to pupate. This cocoon is often a similar colour to the food source and can measure in the range of 4-7mm long and 0.5-1.5mm wide. After pupation is complete adult moths hatch and will fly or crawl to a darkened area to hide away from light as rapidly as possible. At
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this stage they do not feed, acquiring all the moisture and nutrition they need during the larval stage. Usually within 24hours of mating an average of 100 eggs are laid among the fibres of fabric or other non-food materials. Visual detection of clothes moths in their immature stages can be difficult because of their small size. An alternative method is commercially available using pheromone lures. If the moths are present, there are a number of solutions to effectively destroy the eggs, larvae and pupae. These include beating, brushing and combing as well as vacuuming the surface and washing and steam ironing all items. Repellents that can be effective include high doses of plant-derived materials such as lavender, bay, rosemary and wormwood. The economic damage is disproportional to the physical damage, but should it occur, acting quickly can prevent the problem from spreading further. In addition there may be solutions to remediate the damage already done.
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maison cloakroom The Cloakroom opens a flagship store in Montreal Words by Louis Ialenti • Photos by Sacha Iovino
es on offer include cashmere overcoats, heavy-winter peacoats and flannel pants. The Montreal store is the first to feature all three strands in one location, from Initial Denim jeans, to the ready-to-wear Pistols at Dawn line, and The Cloakroom's custom offering. The store allows men to choose pieces from the most casual on offer through to the most formal. The store is located at the geographic centre of Downtown Montreal, on rue de la Montagne, a leafy street that features brownstone heritage buildings and sits at the bottom of the beautiful Mont-Royal. The store is named "Maison Cloakroom" due to the rigorous French language laws, hindering the use of "The Cloakroom" in Montreal. 2175 rue de la Montagne, Montreal, QC H3G 1Z8
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The four seasons of Montreal provide The Cloakroom with the chance for more defined collections
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n a recent trip back to Montreal, Cloakroom partner Louis Ialenti reconnected with his hometown and saw an opportunity to develop a presence in the market there for a Cloakroom on a more intimate scale. The heritage character appeal of Downtown Montreal soon threw up an option that was too good to pass on. After a two-month fitout, the doors opened earlier this year at Maison Cloakroom. The Cloakroom's partner in Montreal Sacha Iovino heads the team up, and despite an unseasonally bitter Winter, has already had significant interest and buzz from men across the city. Sacha's retail experience and career in photography gives him an eye for detail which is noticeable throughout the store. The four seasons of Montreal provide The Cloakroom with the chance for more defined collections and an opportunity to use a wider variety of fabrics. Current piec-
Maison Cloakroom 2175 rue de la Montagne MontrĂŠal, QC H3G 1Z8 From left: Pistols at Dawn white oxford shirt $225, black tie $105, cashmere wool checked overcoat $1399 Pistols at Dawn white oxford shirt $225, burgundy silk knitted Dormeuil tie $160, cashmere wool charcoal peacoat $1199 Pistols at Dawn navy shirt $225, Cloakroom scarf $100, wool navy peacoat $1099 All prices in Canadian dollars
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tHe island of Montreal Words by Justin Hertzman • title photo by Trance Mist
Montreal is the second largest city in Canada, located in the French-speaking province of Quebec. Montreal is situated on an island with a greater population of 3.8 million and attracts an estimated 8.4 million tourists each year. The island of Montreal is roughly divided in half by the Saint Laurent Boulevard. This street splits the city into the French speaking east and english speaking west. if you travel off the island, but remain in Quebec, english speakers are exceptionally rare, adding to the european feel of the province.
1,2. Montreal is built around Mont-Royal, a once active volcano that is now more a hill than a mountain. People run or walk up the mountain during the warmer months and some even cross-country ski after a heavy winter snowfall. it’s a pleasant 5km round trip which is rewarded with an amazing view overlooking the city. every Sunday during the summer drummers gather on Mont-Royal Park to play music and dance, while enjoying the long hours of sunlight. 3. The cobblestoned streets of old Montreal lay at the bottom of the city, weaving their oldstyle magic alongside the St. Lawrence River. old Montreal is home to picturesque luxury hotels, traditional French restaurants, cafes, high-end bars, clubs, and some of the finest dining in the city.
4. Montreal is considered the cultural capital of Canada and is renowned worldwide for an annual selection of over 90 festivals. The world’s biggest Jazz festival headlines the summer months and other music festivals include the FrancoFolies, Pop Montreal, Piknik electronic, and the growing osheaga festival. Montreal is also home to the biggest fireworks competition in the world, as well as the Just for Laughs comedy fest, which launched the career of many comedians including Rowan Atkinson. The city also hosts large beer, oyster, burger and other food festivals.
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Montreal has the highest number of restaurants per capita in Canada and follows closely on the heels of NYC. This competition means an amazing selection of eateries vying for custom and with an incredibly diverse and multicultural society this is reflected in the selection of dining options. 5,6. Montreal’s food scene includes famous versions of the bagel and smoked meat, both of which originated in Montreal’s Jewish community. The city’s two most popular bagel joints, St Viateur and Farmount Bagel, produce 1000s of fresh rolls daily in a range of flavours. The famous Schwartz’s smoked meat restaurant (now owned by Celine Dion) must be experienced, but be prepared to wait for the constant lineup, which often meanders around the block.
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7. The dish most special to Montrealers is poutine, a seemingly simple concoction of fries, gravy and cheese. But given the poor interpretations of this dish perpetrated across other Canadian provinces and around the world, it’s clear there is more to this humble meal than meets the eye. Cheese curds, also known as squeaky cheese, are used in poutine and are a unique mix of haloumi, mozzarrella, and paneer. Rarely are these curds successfully recreated beyond the borders of Quebec. if you haven’t tried Montreal poutine, then you haven’t tried poutine at all.
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9. Montreal is situated near the Laurentian Mountain Range, which has many popular ski slopes. These hills are as close as 30 minutes away, but traveling a little further to Mont-Tremblant ski resort will provide some of the best skiing and most picturesque scenery in the country. 8. Hockey is a passion for all Montrealers, and the emotion generated by this sport is not comparable to any in Australia. Home team, the Montreal Canadiens, is the second most successful franchise in all North American sports. The Canadiens have won the Stanley Cup 24 times in their 106year history. For every game the whole city shuts down with locals flooding bars in order to celebrate together.
10. Winters can be brutally long and incredibly cold and it’s not uncommon for a snowstorm to happen as late in the season as April. Spring ushers in a ‘joi de vivre’ and as soon as temperatures hit positive territory, the city collectively replaces layers of jackets, hats and scarves for scanty shorts and tank tops. A tangible urgency enters the air as people break free from their Winter hibernation and embrace the sun.
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11,12. Summers are short, hot and humid so outdoor bars, cafes, restaurants and parks are packed during these months. it’s illegal to drink in parks or on the street, but residents rarely adhere to this during the warmer months. Montreal has been routinely ranked as one of the top ten sexiest cities in the world by sources such as esquire, Ask Men and CNN. There is no better time to see this than at the start of Spring, following a long hard winter.
Join the handmade movement
2175 rue de la Montagne MontrĂŠal, QC H3G 1Z8
Patently elegant Words by Hannah Byrne Photos by Elisabeth Willis
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merican watchmaker and inventor seth boyden is credited with perfecting the patent leather process. He produced his first pair of patent leather shoes in 1819, but ironically never trademarked the process. boyden achieved a mirror-like finish by applying multiple layers of a linseed oil-based finish, using a pumice stone between each coat to increase absorption. the leather was next blackened with turpentine, allowed to dry and treated with varnish to give that characteristic shiny look. The prolific genius Boyden exploits also include malleable iron, a nail-making machine and building a steamboat. He didn’t patent any of his ideas and died in poverty. boyden’s original leather process has been adapted and improved upon, and traditional tanneries such as the american company Horween still use similar techniques. today production of patent leather begins with animal hides being treated multiple times with linseed oil lacquer and dye to achieve a shiny mirror-like finish. the process is time consuming and the leather must be left to dry for days between each coat. traditionally patent leather comes in black, brown, red and navy. inferior patent leather replicas are mass-produced using vinyl or plastic coating and can be manufactured in any colour. Patent leather shoes carry more formality than calf leather and are commonly worn with a tuxedo or dress military uniform in black with no brogueing. Patent leather is nearly 100% waterproof and is surprisingly easy to care for - stains and marks can generally be removed with a damp cloth.
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Boyden achieved a mirror-like finish by applying multiple layers of a linseed oilbased finish, using a pumice stone between each coat to increase absorption.
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Monster Instinct The unmistakeable Monster design is truly iconic and means there is no limit to your enjoyment. The performance and fluidity of the new 1200cc second generation Testastretta 11째 DS engine, the versatility of the three Riding Modes, the comfort of the adjustable seat and passenger
handles make the Monster 1200 a bike that is capable of adapting to any occasion, so that you can follow your instincts in every situation. To experience the unmistakeable Monster 1200, visit your local Authorised Ducati Dealer and book a test ride today.
unstruCtured JaCKets The Italian wardrobe staple Words by Alex Leggett & Jackson Byrne • Photos by Elisabeth Willis • illustrations by Josh Kim
The unstructured or soft jacket gained exposure and notoriety from one its greatest torch-bearers in the dashing Duke of Windsor, who was among the first men to wear tweed jackets without lining or canvas in the 1930s. without lining to great acclaim, propelling him to the very top of the fashion world. Men worldwide wanted to look cool and relaxed, not like they were being held in place by invisible wires. the unstructured jacket poses several challenges for its maker. unsightly seams and other inner workings cannot be hidden beneath the garment’s lining, and it takes a special skill to ensure the soft look does not drape too severely and resemble wax melted in the hot sun. that said, the unstructured jacket is now a must-have in
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he unstructured jacket is an essential piece in the modern man’s wardrobe. a lighter and more fluid garment than a traditional blazer, it has less lining, less rigidity and therefore allows more freedom by conforming to the body shape of its wearer. it is ideal for warm climates and allows for the wearer to dress it up or down with the pieces it is paired with. the jacket hangs and drapes in a superior fashion as opposed to holding a preset shape decided by its tailor. the unstructured or soft jacket gained exposure and notoriety from one its greatest torch-bearers in the dashing Duke of Windsor, who was among the first men to wear tweed jackets without lining or canvas in the 1930s. He wore clothes that allowed freedom and movement, a style he described as “dress soft.” the duke’s jackets usually had less conventional styling such welted pockets, rather than flaps. This eclectic style was often mirrored in his loud trousers and colourful sportswear. the unstructured style was initially pioneered in balmy naples decades before, but it was the duke who put it on the map. By the 1970s menswear had gone stiff, rigid and padded again, and it took a boyish giorgio armani to bring back the unstructured look. He re-introduced a jacket
almost any man’s summer wardrobe. it’s a simple way to in an effortless way for any ‘smart casual’ occasion. The unstructured jacket is best suited to natural fibers like cotton, linen or wool. it creases somewhat and that is part of its unique charm. the extremes of summer demand cool and comfortable clothes, and naturally the Cloakroom specializes in a range of unstructured jackets to suit almost any man. Worn closer to the shoulder it suits a leaner frame when cut in a neater silhouette.
One of the first icons to bring the unstructured jacket into the mainstream was the duke of Windsor, a man famous for his eclectic and impeccable dress sense. one of the most photographed men in the world at the time, the duke wore clothes that allowed freedom and movement, a style he described as “dress soft.” in the 1930s, this became even more apparent when he started to wear unstructured or ‘unlined’ jackets made by a dutch-born tailor living in london frederick scholte.
An unstructured Cloakroom jacket in burgundy Dormeuil Tonik with navy piping $1950
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giorgio armani dressed a young richard gere in american gigolo, released in 1980. armani styled Gere impeccably in multiple outfits including a suit, tuxedo, jeans and blazer combination, cardigan shirt and tie. a standout piece from the movie was this linen unstructured jacket with soft shoulders, a longer body and that summery creased linen look.
tHe durability of MoHair Words by Josh Kim Photos by Elisabeth Willis
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ithin the broad spectrum of cloths present in today's market, mohair remains one of the most under-utilised fabric composites in men's tailoring. Characterised by its robust nature and course feel, the real advantages of mohair lie within how it performs as a day-to-day suiting cloth. typically woven as an open basket weave, mohair is one of the most breathable and crease resistant suiting options. The mohair fibres are derived from goat’s wool, and have a natural bounce and tension, giving the suit a level of structure and resilience without the need for excessive padding. similar to worsted wool, mohair breathes in warmer weather and insulates during the cooler months and is therefore one of the most ideal fabric options for warm climates. french-based fabric company dormeuil have a wide variety of mohair and wool blends. they also blend mohair with other composites including silk and cashmere, which change the overall feel and appearance of the cloth. dormeuil's collection of wool and mohair ranges in percentage from 5% mohair to 90% allowing customers to choose the percentage that best suits their needs. dormeuil have a wide variety of colours ranging from business classics to vivid hues suitable for casual jackets. as the percentage of mohair rises, the grain of the cloth becomes more obvious and takes on a matte finish in comparison to pure wool options. the use of mohair extends beyond the conventional work suit, and was originally used as the preferred tuxedo option due its sharp appearance. Mohair is incredibly breathable and durable, making it one of the most versatile suiting fabrics in men's tailoring.
Cinches Mohair ‘cinches’ were commonly used to keep horse saddles in place. The hand-spun cinch fastened under the horse and tightened the saddle. Rope was also traditionally made from coarser mohair fibres. Nylon now replaces many traditional uses of mohair, as it is strong and considerably cheaper.
Baby goats
Cowboys
The rule goes: the younger the goat, the finer the hair. The hair of young Angora goats is used for fabric while the coarser hair of older animals is used in the production of industrial goods such as carpets and blankets.
American cowboys wore hairy chaps made from angora wool around the 1880s. The wool wasn’t sheared from the hide and instead the hide added a layer of extra protection. These were some of the warmest chaps available at that time and were favoured by cowboys living in the high altitudes of the Rocky Mountains.
Train seats Train seats worldwide were traditionally made from mohair blends as they wore so well and didn't fade. Mohair was later replaced with synthetics. QLD Reds 2014
Mohair fibres Mohair fibres are 22-38 microns wide. Cashmere is one of the finest fibres at less than 18.5 and human hair is 70100 microns.
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The Cloakroom handtailored the 2014 team suit for the QLD Reds in a 70% mohair / 30% wool blend. This fabric was chosen for it's high durability and crease resistance, which suited the heavy travel schedule of the squad.
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