The Cloakroom Standard Issue 6

iSSue 6, 2014

STANDARD

BOMBS AWAY!

cordovan leather

bomber jacket

holiday packing

piStolS at dawn

One of the world's strongest leathers

The origins of the iconic bomber

A wardrobe for 10 days in Vietnam

For Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival

ConTrIBuTorS edITorIAL dIreCTor Hannah Byrne

deSIgn & LAyouT Hannah Byrne

PHoTogrAPHy elisabeth Willis elisabethwillis.com gian-Luca Wright digablemedia.tumblr.com Håkan dahlström flickr.com/dahlstroms

ILLuSTrATIonS Leif Lyon

WrITerS Hannah Byrne Andrew Byrne Justin Hertzman Shayl Prisk Charlie Coleman Ben Messina Jonathan Winter

THe CLoAkrooM Andrew Byrne Louis Ialenti Mitchell Humphris Lachlan Sinclair Leif Lyon Josh kim

ON THE COVER AND THIS PAGE Photos by elisabeth Willis

The Cloakroom 104 edward St. Brisbane, QLd 4000 617 3210 1515 www.thecloakroom.com.au

Pistols at dawn & initial denim

H O L I dAY PAC K I n G T I P s

H A L L M A R K s O F A d R E s s s H I RT

P I s TO L s AT dAw n F O R M B F F

Shop 11, 46 James St. Fortitude valley, QLd 4006 617 3257 3300 www.pistolsatdawn.com.au www.initialdenim.com

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s u E d E s H O E CA R E

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All contents of this magazine are copyrighted ©2014 The Cloakroom Australia Pty. Ltd. / 104 edward St. Brisbane, QLd 4000. reproduction of editorial is strictly prohibited without prior permission of The Cloakroom Aus. Pty. Ltd.

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Words by Shayl Prisk Photos by Nick Horween

the art of shell cordovan

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hell cordovan leather is one of the most unique and rare products in the world of men’s footwear. It is an acquired taste with it's rich animal aroma and supple but firm feel, and a pair of shoes that is well cared for will last multiple lifetimes.

Shell cordovan is a horse-hide leather and the strongest leather available. When treated it looks perpetually shined and the skin never creases, instead it rolls. It is this rolling that protects the leather from wear and the signs of age.

The practice of extracting, tanning and treating shell cordovan traces back over centuries. First seen in use

by Moor craftsmen in Cordoba, it was continued and made popular by Spain's leather cordwainers in the 15th and 16th centuries, and the name Cordovan is derived from this. The shell simply describes the shape of the leather taken from the rear of the animal, which is uniquely formed with a membrane in the middle of two epidermis layers. Cordovan leather is prized among leather workers as it can be polished to an incredible

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mirror-like finish. The tanning process is very time consuming and there are only a handful of tanneries that still have the specialised skills to treat and prepare cordovan properly. The undeniable leader is century old family run American company, Horween Leather who is based in Chicago.

The finest horse-hides come from France and these are shipped already salted, to prevent decay, to Horween. The hides are cut by hand and then pass through a series of processes to remove the hairs and pores,

before the tanning stages begin. Horween makes their own tannin, plant extracts that help convert the hides into leather as we know it. Horween's tannins are extracted from chestnut and quebarcho trees. The leather is placed in frames and these are stored in pits for 30 days and constantly agitated so the tannin doesn’t settle in one place. The hides are then removed, shaved and soaked in another solution for a further 30 days.

Four more months of treatment, polish and most im-

portantly rest, are needed to complete the process. As this process is incredibly slow, Horween shell cordovan is more than twice the price of their other leathers.

Spanish shoe company Carmina produces a stunning collection of shell cordovan shoes using leather from Horween. Their range includes everything from Penny loafers to monk straps and brogues.

The Cloakroom made-to-order service provides men with the opportunity to design their own pair of

customised shell cordovan shoes from Carmina with different lasts, styles and leather colours available.

The shell cordovan shoe is not for the faint hearted or impatient as it takes a good deal of wear to soften the leather. Fingers crossed your son and grandson have the same sized foot as these make for a beautiful heirloom that can be re-soled time and time again.

A well-worn pair of shell cordovans from Carmina (over 3 years old)

Photos by Gian-Luca Wright

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Shell cordovan is a horse - hide leather and one of the strongest leathers in the world and when properly treated looks perpetually shined.

Shell cordovan shoes are non-porous and so do not need to be polished, however French shoe care company Saphir produce a shell cordovan cream that adds sheen and protects the skin further. An animal bone is also often

used to add oil and shine to the shoes. The hind leg of a deer works best, as it is smooth and adds enough oil without saturating the leather. The bone is gently rubbed over the shoes in small circles.

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Photo by Elisabeth Willis

Photos by Andrew Byrne

Packing for 10 days in Vietnam I recently took a two week break and travelled to Vietnam for some downtime. As I travel more frequently I have become better at packing lighter, including only a few key wardrobe pieces. One of my favourites is a navy linen shirt, which goes just as well with shorts as it does with jeans or pants.

- Andrew Byrne, founder of The Cloakroom

O p po s i t e pag e: From left to right Swim shorts from Orlebar Brown Pistols at Dawn linen shorts in blue $275 Pistols at Dawn shorts in limited edition kimono cotton $325 Initial Denim jeans in Kuroki $425 Pistols at Dawn chinos in tobacco cotton $495 Cloakroom cotton twill pants in light blue $595 Cloakroom unlined lightweight cotton jacket $1450 Pistols at Dawn Lapo shirt in brown $395 Cloakroom linen shirt in navy $280 Cloakroom Thomas Mason cotton shirt in beige check $375 Navy suede loafers from Car Shoe

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THe Journey oF

THe BoMBer JACkeT M

any iconic menswear pieces are derived from military clothing, such as the double-breasted trench coat, the white t-shirt, khaki pants and the flight jacket, or bomber. The US military, notorious for pursuing maximum efficiency and productivity, surprisingly focused on designing comfortable functional pieces. Servicemen often brought these innovative styles back to their civilian lives, where they gained more mainstream popularity.

The British Royal Flying Corps designed the first version of the flight jacket, which was worn by their crew during WWI. Cockpits were open air and to keep warm, pilots were encouraged to wear long leather coats with fur lined collars.

American daredevil Leslie Leroy Irvin was famous for his parachuting abilities. He was a Hollywood stunt-

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man and with years of extensive flight experience, he reinterpreted the jacket in 1931 with his design the A-2.

This became the standard US Air Force flight jacket.

Since pilots spent most of their time sitting, the jacket was cut short at the waist, becoming the first waistcropped windcheater. using the warmest, most durable and cost effective fabrics was essential for freezing temperatures at altitude. The A-2 was generally made from horse-hide, one of the cheapest leathers available at the time, since the new wave of industrialisation meant an excess of obsolete horses. goatskin and cowhide were also commonly used. The jacket was lined with fur or wool and featured a zip (one of the first garments to do so), a snap-flap patch pocket on either side of the front, a snap-down collar, epaulettes, knit cuffs and waistband, a hang strap and a military Id tag attached

below the collar.

The original flight jackets were made from as few pieces of fabric as possible. The back panel was one piece of leather with the front having only two pieces. each jacket required 57 separate sewing operations, a standard for their high quality, and original A-2 jackets still exist in good condition today. Collectors scour the world for these rare pieces and prices can soar into the thousands of dollars.

Upon completion of flight training, American Air Force officers were presented with a flight jacket and these soon became a powerful and enviable symbol of success and achievement. Patches, ranks and emblems were added as an Air Force man progressed through his career and the back panel was often decorated with embroidery or artwork. Some pilots hand-sewed

upon completion of baSic flight training, american air force officerS were officially preSented with a flight jacket and theSe Soon became a powerful and enviable Symbol of SucceSS and achievement.

f ro m l e f t to r i g h t: › A rare photo of the original flight jacket worn

by British pilots during wwI › Pilots often decorated the back of their jackets with embroidered half naked women › The A-2, worn by the us Air Force during wwII

maps into the lining of their jacket, in case they were shot down in enemy territory. others stitched in 'blood chits,' papers that were translated into different languages, offering civilians a reward for their assistance.

In 1944 the A-2 was replaced with the cheaper synthetic B-15. Aeronautical advancements meant that planes could fly higher and the synthetic fabric kept pilots warmer. Flight temperatures dropped as low as -50c at 25,000 feet and precipitation would often soak the pilot. Wet leather froze but nylon kept wearers dry and ice-free. Planes were also built more aerodynamically which meant smaller cockpits and without the bulk of leather and wool, there was more room to move. Additional features were included such as a pen pocket on the left arm, diagonal slash zip pockets and a clip for oxygen masks.

The B-15 and the following MA-1 models were made

from nylon and polyester, making for lighter warmer jackets. Later models were reversible, with the inside layer a high visibility orange. If a plane went down, pilots were able to reverse their jackets to help search parties locate them. other divisions of the military, such as the uS navy, soon created their own versions of the flight jacket. Police departments in colder USA states did likewise and the college varsity jacket is also derived from this same original.

As with many trends in menswear, cinema was instrumental in bringing the flight jacket to the public eye. Original bad boy Marlon Brando wore a flight jacket in A Streetcar Named Desire, James dean did likewise in Rebel Without a Cause, and more modern references include Bruce Willis in Pulp Fiction, ewan Mcgregor in Trainspotting and recently ryan gosling in Drive. It was however Tom Cruise in Top Gun that

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modernised the image of this style. His masculine character had a ruggedness that appealed to the masses and the jacket soon became a part of popular culture. Top Gun was also responsible for the spike in the popularity of ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses.

Popular culture helps us map the journey of this iconic jacket as it moved through society and was adopted worldwide by different subcultures including bad boys, junkies, skinheads, hip-hop artists, college kids, policemen and average Joes. Different brands started producing their own hybrids in bright colours, patterned fabrics, slimmer silhouettes with less pockets and flight-related features. Many menswear brands, including Pistols at Dawn, have a staple flight jacket in their collection, a spin-off of the army original.

Words by Hannah Byrne

1998 American History X, Edward Norton

1986 Top Gun, Tom Cruise

2011 Drive, Ryan Gosling

1994 Pulp Fiction, Bruce Willis

1996 Train Spotting, Ewan McGregor

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As with many trends in menswear, cinema was instrumental in bringing the flight jacket to the public eye.

1939 Only Angels Have Wings, Cary Grant

1951 A Streetcar Named Desire, Marlon Brando

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1955 Rebel Without a Cause, James Dean

The bomber from pistols at dawn

Photos by Elisabeth Willis

m i tc h w e a r s (left) Pistols at Dawn bomber in blue camouflage $595 Initial Denim jeans in Kaihara selvedge $395 Initial Denim t-shirt in grey $80 ETQ sneakers in light grey $350 Lac h la n w e a r s (below) Pistols at Dawn bomber in navy $595 Pistols at Dawn white cotton shirt $220 Initial Denim jeans in Kuroki selvedge $425 O n t h e rac k ( L- R ) Navy tech fabric, light blue cotton twill, Dormeuil wool-mohair-cotton-silk stripe, navy camouflage

Photo by Gian-Luca Wright

Handmade menswear

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The illustrated menswear of

laurence fellows L

aurence Fellows was one of the first menswear illustrators and influenced a generation of artists. In the early 1900s there were no real platforms from which menswear was discussed.

Photography had just started to become more accessible and with the dawn of newspaper images, men were quick to copy the style of public figures such as the impeccably dressed Edward VIII. Laurence Fellows took a different route and started sketching what gentlemen were wearing on the street, at beach-side holidays and while hunting on the weekend. He was one of the first artists to do so and gained much attention for his illustrations of classically styled outfits. His drawings had a sense of texture and depth that had not been seen previously. Many of his illustrations continue to be rel-

evant today and his work is still featured on menswear blogs and in print publications.

Fellows started his career studying at the Philadelphia Academy of Art. He furthered his skills abroad, working under master artists in England and France. It is thought that much of his illustrative aesthetic was influenced by this continental stint, which set him apart from his American peers.

Upon returning to America, Fellows started working in advertising and helped fill a gap between art and advertising campaigns. In 1931, Esquire magazine was launched and it was around this time that Fellows started drawing menswear. He began what would become a lasting relationship with the magazine and his sketches worked incredibly well with Esquire’s editorial

voice. His work was also consistently featured in Vanity Fair, Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Life magazine.

Laurence Fellows' early work was subtle with clean lines and faded backgrounds. Over time his style evolved and he started drawing more elaborate backgrounds and scenery in which to place his set of stylish men; he added depth and colour to the beaches where they holidayed, and gave more detail to their hunting locations. Fellows' illustrations provide a detailed glimpse into the style of menswear at this time. They help map the evolution of menswear during this era and give insight into the flashy and colourful years of post-war decadence followed by the more sombre years of the Great Depression.

J e a n - Pa u l La u r e n s

La u r e n c e f e l low s' s u b j e ct s Fellows' characters were older than many of the models we see in current menswear advertising campaigns. They were refined gentlemen in their 40s and 50s who had the financial resources to afford such colourful lifestyles.

These men embodied a style of living that so many others were chasing and which had not yet been depicted in illustrated work.

French painter and sculptor Jean-Paul Laurens created artwork in the French Academic Style, covering only topics that were considered 'elevated' and 'noble.' He painted with incredible detail and hyper realism, covering 'elevated' topics such as historical events, religious subjects and mythology.

He later taught at the Academie Julian in Paris and it was here that Julien Fellows studied under him. This coupling is particularly interesting when you compare the artistic styles of these two artists. Pictured left is Laurens' piece ' Le Pape Formose et Étienne VII.'

Words by Hannah Byrne All images courtesy of online archives

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the 2014 mercedes-benz fashion festival Pistols at Dawn exhibited their Spring Summer collection as part of the 2014 Brisbane Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival.

Gian-Luca Wright was on hand to photograph the night. The full collection is now available in store, visit www.pistolsatdawn.com.au for details.

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MerCedeS-Benz FASHIon FeSTIvAL BeHInd-THe-SCeneS Photographer elisabeth Willis was backstage at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival and snapped behind-the-scenes photos of the Pistols team in action, dressing models and preparing for the show.

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Words by Charlie Coleman Photo by Elisabeth Willis Illustrations by Leif Lyon

LoAFerS loa f e r S we love getting our loafers out during the warmer months. They look great paired with jeans and add a little more formality to shorts and a t-shirt.

There are several iconic styles that we all know well including the Penny and Tassel loafer, but what were the first loafers?

When were they invented?

Loafers are typically lace-less and are similar in construction to their predecessor the moccasin, which are regarded as the first shoe. They are cut low and unlike moccasins, generally have their own heel.

w i l d S m i t h loa f e r

ta S S e l loa f e r The Tassel loafer is thought to have been designed by Arthur Talow sr. of the Alden shoe Company at the request of actor Paul Lukas. Lukas had bought a pair of shoes in England with small tassels on the ends of the laces. Talow came up with a shoe design that had a leather lace and decorative tassel, adding a spark of eccentricity to previously conservative loafers. Talow realised the marketing potential of the shoe and started mass production and the model soon became incredibly popular.

The wildsmith Loafer was created in 1926 by English shoemaker Raymond Lewis wildsmith. King George VI commissioned wildsmith to create a casual shoe that could be worn around the castle. The low-heeled design by wildsmith had no laces and could be easily slipped on. wildsmith managed to find balance between visual design and comfort and so the modern day loafer was born. The wildsmith company still operates today and sells their original model in a range of colours.

a u r la n d loa f e r nils Gregoriusson Tveranger, a native norwegian, travelled to America at the age of thirteen where he spent seven years mastering the art of shoemaking. In 1908 he released the first shoe that resembled the current loafer. He designed a model that was based on the moccasins worn by the native American Iroquois and the moccasins of fishermen in his hometown Aurland. The shoe had a simple design with a small heel and became popular amongst American tourists visiting Europe. The shoe was named after Tveranger’s hometown; a place where visiting English lords had commissioned shoes as far back as the 1800’s.

p e n n y loa f e r

g u cc i loa f e r The Gucci company started out making saddles and luggage. In 1953, Aldo Gucci (son of Guccio Gucci, the founder of Gucci) designed a version of the loafer. The shoes had an iconic brass strap across the front - this piece was the shape of a snaffle bit, inspired by their saddle collection.

Loafers were traditionally made from brown leather but Gucci started making more formal models in black; formal enough to be worn with suits. The Gucci loafer quickly gained popularity in the American market and was worn by notables such as John F. Kennedy.

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G.H. Bass & Co are the company responsible for creating the iconic Penny loafer. In 1936 they released a sophisticated saddled shoe, which quickly became a hit with American youth in the 1950’s. The shoes were originally called weejuns but the American public re-named them as Penny loafers. Public pay phones charged a penny and children and youth started storing pennies in the diamond cut-out of the shoe for emergency phone calls.

macau Macau is the new gambling hub of the world and also the only place in China where it is legal to gamble in casinos.

25% The poorest 25% of Metro Melbourne contributed a third of total gambling revenue from pokies in 2002/3. The wealthiest 25% contributed only 15%.

On average, Australians spend more money on gambling than petrol or alcohol.

2% It is estimated that more than 2% of the Australian population has a significant gambling problem.

45000 pokies Pokie machines have become intertwined with everyday Aussie culture. In the 70’s, the iconography of gambling was limited to the spectacle of movies, Las Vegas and high-rolling millionaires. But the introduction of local casinos, legalised gambling—and pokies in particular— have eliminated existing class and gender barriers to become accessible to all Australians. some commentators have even praised pokies for breaking down the patriarchal exclusivity of our pub culture. However, in contrast to outdated imagery of wealthy (responsible) gamblers, today gambling has increasingly become associated with irresponsibility and poverty.

Accusations implicate these machines in spousal disharmony, irresponsible parenting, and even the destruction of live music (formally the ‘go-to’ form of entertainment in pubs).

Concern over the socio-economic implications of pokies has led to advertising campaigns looking to curtail and in some cases ban pokies altogether. words by Jonathan winter

The number of pokie machines in QLd in 2007/2008. There are over 200,000 in the country.

$1144 The amount that each Australian loses from gambling per year, (according to The Economist).

1/2 Pokies account for more than half of all government gambling revenue.

Pokie losses are much higher than any other form of gambling in Australia. western Australia is the only state that disallows pokie machines outside of casinos.

20% Australia has 20% of the world's gaming machines.

1/5 1/5 attempted suicides in Australia is related to pokie gambling.

Chinese travellers are allowed to carry only $3200 when leaving China and stores in Macau have been banned from adding new ATMs on the island. For many high rollers, this amount doesn't come close to satisfying their gambling needs.

To increase their funds, gamblers either 'purchase' fake items using unionPay cards, and gamble this cash on the casino tables, or purchase real items which are then pawned. High rollers most commonly use 'junkets,' companies who bring VIP gamblers to the island, lend them money and then later collect these debts on the mainland. Junkets take care of flights and accommodation but most importantly cash.

Casinos pay junket companies to lure out big spenders and they take a cut of their client's bets.

Junkets are similar to banks, but they collect less personal data from their clients and also have a much less rigorous vetting processes to ensure money is clean. In the past they were commonly linked to criminal organisations such as the Triads. Many still have criminal associations but less so. Junkets accounted for almost two thirds of Macau casino revenue in 2013.

China, the usA and the casino companies are now cracking down on junkets. us owned casinos are feeling heat from law enforcement back home, casinos are losing profits to the junkets and all three parties are trying to curb money laundering and corruption.

Many casinos are now asking for more client information from junkets and the Chinese government is slowly enforcing this. As the Chinese government continues to crack down on corruption, many gamblers are scared to sit down publicly and play with large stacks.

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Singapore The first Singaporean casino was opened in 2010 under a government bill that allowed only just two casino licenses. These were awarded to Marina Bay sands and Resorts world sentosa. In an effort to curb gambling, the government charges a $100 entry fee for every 24 hours spent in a casino. The 'Family Exclusion Order' also aims to protect citizens, by allowing family members to legally ban relatives from casinos. singaporeans lose an estimated $1100+ per year per adult.

finland 41% of Finnish people gamble weekly. One of the biggest forms of gambling in Finland is the lottery, which is owned by the government and run by the department of Education. Yearly profits are put to good use and help subsidise amateur sports, education, science and the arts.

One Finnish gambling website offers customers professional therapy sessions. Customers that spend $170 and have been medically diagnosed with a gambling problem can claim up to 10 free therapy sessions to help with their addiction.

Finnish people lose an estimated $500+ per year per adult.

norway Most forms of gambling are illegal in norway, but lotteries and betting on different sporting events are allowed. The norwegian government passed a bill that forces banks to deny norwegians from using their credit or debit cards at casinos around the world. norwegians lose an estimated $450+ per year per adult.

australia Australia is the biggest gambling nation worldwide with an estimated $1200+ in losses per adult per year.

the numberS of gambling Words by Hannah Byrne Photo by Håkan dahlström

richard marcus

$500,000 It is alleged that an 8-year old Indian boy won half a million in an online poker tournament.

He is described as a computer genius who started building his own websites at age 4 and started playing online poker at 6. using his uncle's poker account, he won the tournament however the company refused to pay him, given his age. The family went to court in 2010, saying that the poker company knew the boy's age and had even nicknamed him Littlepokerwizard. There are no reports on the outcome of the court case.

Richard Marcus started his career as a pro gambler, but after losing his bank roll, became a dealer. He watched many games before devising his own cheating method called the 'savannah.' Marcus would stack 3 chips on a certain number or colour. The top 2 were $5 chips but the bottom chip, hidden from view, was $500. If he won, he would surprise the dealer, who couldn't see the bottom chip, by jumping around with excitement. If he lost, he would sneak the $500 chip back into his stack, replacing it with a $5 chip instead. 'Past posters' used a similar method and dealers were trained to look for this cheat. 'Past posters' changed chips after they won, not after they lost like Marcus.

He made an estimated $5 million before getting caught.

3-0 In 2001, in an effort to impress his girlfriend, a Tottenham fan bet his entire mortgage that his team would beat Manchester united after they were ahead 3-0. Manchester came back with 5 second half goals and he lost everything.

$5000

£194,400

In 1974 the then 3-year old company FedEx had just $5000 to their name. Founder and current CEO Frederick w. smith took that money, flew to Las Vegas and spent the weekend playing Black Jack. He returned Monday with $32,000, enough to keep the company afloat until smith raised more capital. The company is now estimated to be worth $25-35 billion.

In 1989, a 40-year-old man walked into a newport betting house in wales. He placed a £30 wager on the following: Cliff Richard being knighted, u2 staying together as a band, EastEnders still airing on BBC and neighbours and Home and Away still streaming on British television by 2000. In 2000 he collected £194,400, with accumulative odds of 6,479-1.

$2 million Media tycoon Robert Maxwell lost $2 million in one minute at a casino playing multiple roulette wheels at once.

£15 million Kerry Packer lost £15 million at a London casino after a few very unlucky spins of the roulette wheel. It is believed he lost up to $40 million over 10 months.

mit black jack

$50

Current and former mathematics students of Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) created a Black Jack team under the tutelage of Bill Kaplan. There was a rigorous entrance procedure and aspiring players were tested extensively before being accepted into the training program.

Team members were schooled on card counting methods and also used computer programming to predict outcomes of certain scenarios.

well known Greek-American gambler Archie Karas turned $50 into $40 million in 3 years playing dice, baccarat, pool and poker. Later that year he lost it all.

Players operated as a team, lessening the chance of detection. A card counter would sit at a table and when there were big cards left in the deck, would signal the 'big player' to come and gamble.

Investors and players put up necessary capital and players won an average of $162.50 / hour. Players pocketed $80 / hour of this and investors made returns of +250% during the 80s and 90s.

Casinos soon wised up to their team tactics and the players were later banned from most tables in America and through Europe, but not before allegedly winning millions of dollars.

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$38 million A norwegian man known as “Peter” won the biggest progressive poker jackpot online for $38 million.

$uS82.5 mil 9 out of 10 of the world's biggest poker pools have been in the world series of Poker.

The biggest wsOP pool to date ($82.5 million) was won in 2006

by American Jamie Gold.

£60 million during the 1990s in England, an Asian betting syndicate was responsible for cutting the floodlights when their soccer team was winning. The gang was reported to have taken up to £60 million from two games in 1997.

tot e b ag Tote bag: A large bag used for carrying a number of items (Oxford dictionary) The term 'tote' comes from the verb 'to tote,' which means to carry. Tote was not used to describe bags until the early 1990s. newspaper delivery boys started using tote bags in the 40s and for a while, this style of carry all was referred to as a 'newsboy bag.'

In 1944 LL Bean (American retail brand) released their 'Boat Bag,' which not only rhymed with tote bag but looked very similar. They were so popular that non-boaters started using them as well.

Totes are very practical, easy to carry and characterised by a large open central pocket and big shoulder straps. Often canvas, more durable totes are made from leather, cotton or hessian.

Great for carrying: your laptop, the latest copy of The Cloakroom standard, chunky headphones, oversized bottle of sunscreen, Frisbee, 6-pack of Peroni, boxing gloves and swim shorts.

A practical bag that fits your daily life.

p i S to l S at daw n tot e b ag Heavy gauge canvas Leather detailing Adjustable, removable shoulder strap Internal pockets YKK zip Available in denim, white and chocolate $175 Lachlan wears: Pistols at dawn linen shirt in white $225 Pistols at dawn chinos in chocolate brown $395 Photos by gian-luca wright

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s u e d e s h o e ca r e Suede shoes have a reputation as being delicate and volatile, but in actuality, if you know how to take care of them, they’re easier to maintain than your regular calf leathers. There is no need for a conditioning, polishing or waxing routine, just some basic maintenance tips will keep them looking well loved.

› Apply a neutral waterproofing spray monthly to protect your suedes from stains and water. Brush with a suede brush before and after the spray and also brush regularly to maintain the pile. › If you get mud on them, let the mud dry overnight and brush it off with a stiff horsehair brush. If there is some remaining dirt left, use a suede eraser for spot cleaning. › In most cases, if your shoes get wet, they should be fine. In some cases, however, they can be left with water stains. It may sound counter-intuitive, but in those situations we recommend shampooing them with Saphir ‘Omnidain’ – a dedicated suede shampoo.

After brushing the Omnidain deep into the pile of the suede run them under cold water and leave to dry with shoetrees in a dry place. Avoid direct sunlight. › All of our tips should be done in addition to all the basics you should be doing for your shoes. Insert unvarnished, cedar shoe trees whenever you are not wearing your shoes, let them have at least a day rest between wears, and use a shoe horn when you can.

Words by Ben Messina Photos by Gian-Luca Wright

Saphir horse-hide and rubber suede brushes Carmina split toe Derby in brown suede

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dormeuil white light one of the newest and most exciting additions to dormeuil's luxury line is White Light, a unique fabric woven from Super 180s wool, silk and kyrgyzstan wool. Although White Light is made from some of the world’s rarest and softest fibres it has a structure that is surprisingly robust. In particular the 25% silk component adds a resilience and deep lustre to the fabric.

White Light is woven in a range of solid colours, checks and subtle stripes.

It weighs just 250 grams and feels silky smooth to the touch.

Pictured is a Cloakroom suit handmade in White Light (ref 183056).

Photos by Gian-Luca Wright

Pistols at dawn light blue shirt $220 dormeuil silk navy tie $265 Pistols at dawn pocket square $35 Carmina brown leather belt $240 dormeuil white Light suit in grey check POA

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The hallmarks of a high quality dress shirt Single needle stitching A single row of stitches is sewn and then the fabric is folded back over onto itself and sewn again. Many manufacturers use double stitching, as the process is faster, but the gap between the two rows of stitching can pull and wrinkle. Single needle stitching not only looks neater but is also more durable.

Stitches per inch High quality garments have many tight stitches; a process that is time consuming but more durable. A well-made dress shirt can have up to 25 stitches per inch and this is an easy indicator of the quality of workmanship. Stitches can be seen best on the side seams of a shirt.

Collar Quality collars are generally made of two layers of fabric sewn on top of each other to create a stiffer feel. Collar stays are often worn with dressier shirts to add structure and more casual shirts are made with softer collars.

Photos by Gian-Luca Wright

Yoke Most men have sloped shoulders that sit at different angles and double-yoked shirts are cut to accommodate these. With patterned fabrics such as stripes or checks, the patterns must be lined up to match on the two yokes.

Mother of pearl Mother of pearl buttons are not only incredibly durable but add lustre and elegance to a shirt. Inferior shirts are made with plastic buttons. Quality tuxedo shirts are made with black mother of pearl buttons and more casual shirts with horn buttons.

Buttonholes Buttonholes should be cut first and then sewn. Buttonholes that are sewn and then cut result in messy loose threads that fray.

The bottom buttonhole should be cut horizontally. This gives more movement for the button when you sit and your waist expands. Quality shirts also have a button on the placket.

Gusset A triangular piece of fabric is sewn into the bottom of the shirt adding strength to the garment. In Pistols at Dawn shirts, the gusset is often made from a different coloured fabric and when worn un-tucked, is a design feature.

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