ISSUE NO.12
SECRET
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PHOTOGRAPHY Kaja Jangaard
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CONTEM P OR ARY FAS HION TRA DE S HO W
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2016 A R EN A B ER LI N
JUL Y 8 T H - 10 TH , 2015
E I CHE NS TR A S S E 4
WWW.S E E K E X HIB IT IONS .COM
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12435 B E R LI N
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PHOTOGRAPHY Laura Cammarata
Atlas (Print) ISSN 2056-5836 Atlas (Online) ISSN 2056-5844 Produced by Kwintus Publishing Ltd. Distributed by Comag Printed by Cambrian Printers The opinions expressed in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Although all material is checked for accuracy, no liability is assumed by the publisher for any losses due to the use of material in this magazine. Copyright Š. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without prior written permission of Kwintus Publishing Ltd. 4 Atlas Magazine
Submissions Submissions due June 30th Next theme : The Noise Issue Read our submissions guidlines at theatlasmagazine.com Submit your work to submissions@theatlmagazine.com
Contact submissions@theatlmagazine.com advertising@theatlasmagazine.com writing@theatlasmagazine.com web@theatlasmagazine.com www.theatlasmagazine.com www.facebook.com/theatlasmagazine www.twitter.com/myatlasmagazine www.instagram.com/theatlasmagazine www.theatlasmagazine.tumblr.com www.issuu.com/theatlasmagazine
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Editors Olivia Bossert Megan Breukelman Graphic Designer Jessica Bailey Online Editor Jasmin Rauha Contributing Writer Paris Richardson
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Contributors
Oliver Proudlock Saskia Lawson Carmen Rose Rossella Vanon Thea Baddiley ASCENO Kaja Jangaard Laura Cammarata Amber Eggleden Fani Mari Fashion Revolution Emily Soto Orsola De Castro Anna Kirikova Pippa Mcmanus Christian Ammann Stephanie Nolasco Hussein Katz Liz Goldwyn Catherine Harbour Camilla Ashworth Magnus Schouboe Lotte Sindahl Patrick Hope Megan Simonson Tetsuya Maehara Liz Rosa Natalia JhetĂŠ William Evans Dan Des Eynon Emily Beeson Rachael Saunders
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PHOTOGRAPHY Carmen Rose
CONTENTS
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ARTICLES
Behind Closed Doors Written by William Evans Page 72-73
The Creative Business Man: Oliver Proudlock Interviewed by Olivia Bossert Editorial by Saskia Lawson Page 12-19 Interview With: Professional Fashion Photographer Rosella Vanon Interview by Olivia Bossert Page 28-33 Interview With: Brand Asceno Interview by Paris Richardson Page 42-43 In Praise Of Fashion Revolution Day Written by Fami Mari Page 52-53 Secrets Of Our Generation Written by Paris Richardson Page 62-63
Interview With: Model Booker & Photographer Patrick Hope Interview by Olivia Bossert Page 103-104 Hollywood Royal Liz Goldwyn Explores “Pretty Things” In Love For Burlesque Article by Stephanie Nolasco Page 100-101 Interview With: Illustrator Pippa Mcmanus Interview by Olivia Bossert Page 116-119 Not All Those Who Wander Written by Emily Beeson Page 136-137
TOM GIRL by Carmen Rose Page 20-27
SHADOWS by Amber Eggleden Page 64-71
ICELANDIC BEAUTY by Christian Ammann Page 110-115
COLOUR BLOCK by Thea Baddiley Page 34-41
PURE THOUGHTS by Magnus Schouboe Page 74-81
HIDDEN GARDENS by Megan Simonson Page 113-120
OBSCURE by Kaja Jangaard Page 44-51
UNBREAKABLE by Anna Kirikova Page 84-91
THE LONE EXPLORER by Laura Cammarata Page 128-135
HONEST by Emily Soto Page 54-61
REQUIM by Tetsuya Maehara Page 92-99
ESCAPE by Liz Rosa Page 138-145
GUARDED by Catherine Harbour Page 102-109
EDITORIALS 9
EDITORS LETTER
D
ear all,
Seriously? We can’t quite believe it. Atlas is almost three years old! Look at where we’ve come from in the last three years; from a tiny online magazine started from scratch with no idea what we were doing to a tangible print publication… it doesn’t even feel real! But that’s what has happened. It’s hard work. We work at it every day alongside our courses, jobs and social lives, but every second is worth it. Every sleepless moment hunched over our computers makes up for those dreams we’re missing— because we’re living them. Bringing together your work each issue is so rewarding. Actually, let’s take a moment to talk about the sheer volume of work we receive now! You guys are all amazing. Our inbox is flooded constantly with incredible work; so much that we were finally prompted to create ‘Mini Atlas’. There was so much to share that it felt wrong not to use it in some shape or form. We chatted as a team and came to the agreement that yes, we did have time to create another magazine and that it would be a great addition
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to our publications. So from now on, we’ll be producing four issues of ‘Mini Atlas’ a year as well! You can see the current issue at issuu.com/theatlasmagazine. This issue is vibrant, colourful, exciting and emotive. We feel it’s definitely the strongest issue we’ve put together yet. We’ve got an insightful interview into the life and work of Oliver Proudlock, accompanied by an editorial photographed by the talented Saskia Lawson. As well, an interview with fashion photographer Rossella Vanon is worth reading for anyone who has aspirations in the fashion photography business. Or for other creative aspirations, Patrick Hope shares his thoughts and advice on getting into the business of model booking. The magazine is filled, as always, with stunning photography, ranging from our cover photographer Carmen Rose, Emily Soto’s dreamlike story, to Megan Simonson’s mixed media work. We hope you love this issue as much as we loved making it. Olivia Bossert & Megan Breukelman Editors
PHOTOGRAPHY Saskia Lawson
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ARTICLE
INTERVIEW BY Olivia Bossert
The Creative Business Man: Oliver Proudlock
Most people know Oliver Proudlock for his role in Made In Chelsea, the British reality TV show about the young people of West London’s, Chelsea. If you’re a big fan, you’ll probably also know about his clothing line, Serge De Nimes. But how much do you actually know? I am proud to admit that I’m a big fan of Made in Chelsea. I’ve watched every episode to date, and I love it! I’m also a Proudlock fan. I was extremely curious to know more about his career as an artist, and a businessman. So on a lovely spring morning in Chelsea, Ollie and I sat down to have a chat about art, fashion, inspiration and television. Ollie was born in London, but very quickly moved to Gloucestershire. Calling himself a country boy at heart, it wasn’t until he went to Eton College, in Windsor, that he got to know London a bit better. Raised primarily by his mother (his father owns a restaurant in Chelsea, and travelled back and forth during the week, before they divorced when he was a boy), Ollie says that’s where he got his creativity. “She’s very creative. It’s all about style with her. She’s quite wacky really. Growing up, the look of the house would change every 2-3 months! At one time, she decided she wanted the whole house pink. It was very extreme. We were always having photoshoots in the house for interior design, or fashion shoots. So I grew up with people coming and going out of our house. That’s become very engrained in me. It’s probably why I went on to do art and fashion.” When Ollie left school, he started on a Foundation in Art and Design course at Central St Martins in London, but quickly realised it wasn’t what he wanted to be doing. “Everyone left school and went straight on to universities like Oxford or Cambridge to study languages or science. I’d always wanted to be creative, and was lucky to have the support of my parents to do so. Going straight to university seemed like the wisest decision. But as soon as I got there, I was miserable. All I’d wanted to do was travel. So 6 months in, I made the decision to quit. I wanted to experience life and feel some independence. It turned out to be the best decision I ever made. I went to South America for 6 months, and I grew up so much. By the time I got back, I was ready to take on university properly.” 12 Atlas Magazine
Ollie studied Fine Art in Newcastle, and enjoyed it, but upon leaving his degree, found himself a bit lost. “I loved to paint, but I wasn’t sure that was what I wanted to do for a career. I spent some time living with my mum after university, because London was so expensive. It was when I was there that I stumbled on a book she had created before I was born. It was filled with images of the Rio Carnival of 1978. I found everything about it so inspiring, so vibrant and full of life… I decided to fly over there.” As it turns out, going to Brazil was the best thing Ollie could ever have done. “By the time I got home, I knew exactly what I wanted to do: create clothes. I’d always been obsessed with fashion. Apparently, when I was a kid, I would change my outfit 3 to 4 times a day. I was never happy with just one! While at uni, I was constantly making T-Shirts with cool designs on them, purely because I loved to create them. So that was where I decided to start; with T-Shirts.”
...I found everything about it so inspiring, so vibrant and full of life… Ollie started small, contacting friends he had made throughout his life and began to create his first collection. When I asked him about the name of the company, Ollie explained: “I love denim. I’ve always been obsessed with it. Double denim? I’m more likely to be in triple denim. It’s just such a versatile fabric. And then I discovered Serge De Nimes…
PHOTOGRAPHER Marc Hayden HAIR & MAKEUP Anna Lingis LOCATION The Hoxton Hotel In Holborn
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TOM GIRL PHOTOGRAPHER Carmen Rose MODEL Gemma @ Pride Models STYLING Cat Morrison HAIR & MAKEUP Elsie Tan MAKEUP PRODUCT Chanel SS 2015 Collection
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BOTH PAGES DRESS Ka He SHOES Birkenstock SOCKS Voodoo
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ARTICLE
INTERVIEW BY Olivia Bossert
Interview with: PROFESSIONAL FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER ROSSELLA VANON
SALT WATER PHOTOGRAPHER Rossella Vanon MODEL Mia Stass @ M&P HAIR Nuriye ‘Naz’ Sonmez HAIR PRODUCT Bumble & Bumble MAKEUP & NAILS Julia Wren 28 Atlas Magazine
EYES Nars Bavaria Eyeshadow, Mac Pigment In Ice & YSL Luxurious Mascara LIPS Pro Lip Palette Preferred Pinks NAILS Top Shop Acapolco
Q. Tell us about your background as a photographer. How did it all begin? A. I’ve always been creative, even as a child: I was constantly drawing, making up fairytales, singing along every tune. As I grew up, it was music that became the first love of my life: I started playing several instruments in bands and I got a Sound Engineering & Music Business Degree. Art was always in the air, but photography came about in quite a sudden and unexpected way. One summer at 20 years old I found myself in company of my dad’s small compact camera and I just couldn’t stop photographing. It was my first time holding a camera that wasn’t a disposable one used for the usual group shot during a school trip, and I couldn’t get enough. From that summer on, I started saving every little amount I could afford to finally be able to buy a reflex camera, the Canon 350D. That little camera felt like a piece of solid gold in my hands! I took it everywhere with me, I photographed everything, and the passion started to grow into something more consistent and extremely fulfilling. And the journey began. Q. Where do you find your inspiration? A. In fashion, a big part of inspiration comes from the clothes, so I always research both wardrobe and beauty trends during and after every fashion week. This way I can make sure that every idea and mood board I send to editors and other clients is fresh, up to date and relevant to the fashion seasons ahead. Locations are another great source of inspiration: often a walk in the right place can literally inspire a whole shoot. When it comes to colours and textures, however, is nature to be my go-to. In my opinion, there is nothing in this world that is as perfect as nature and its colour combinations. Q. Why fashion photography? Have you always been a fashion photographer? A. When I first approached photography I started by photographing what felt most natural and dear to me, and that was nature. I have always been a deep, hopeless nature lover, who spends her days off hiking in the countryside and is always moved by the sight of a sunset above the fields. Photography gave me the opportunity (and the excuse!) to spend days lost in parks and forests, capturing landscapes, macro shots of flowers and portraits of deer and other inhabitants of the woods that I deeply love. When I decided it was time to turn my passion for photography into a full time job, I decided to explore different areas, such as portrait photography, that would allow me to get paid jobs more easily and survive in the industry. With time and a lot of networking behind me, my portrait shoots went from being only me and my subject to being a collaboration with a makeup artist, a hair stylist and sometimes even a wardrobe stylist. Slowly, my work shifted from portrait into fashion without me really knowing. At the time, I embraced the change and followed the new path without well knowing where it was going to take me. Now I’m very glad I did. Fashion photography completely fulfills my creative thirst and allows me to speak my heart out fully (although I still need my woods every once in a while!).
Q. How did you learn? A. I am self-taught and I’m an avid reader. I remember studying a basic Digital Photography book in-between classes during my University years. I would memorise the technical bits and then use my days off to wander around parks with my camera to try out all the settings and techniques I had learnt the days before. Nature photography was great for learning purposes, as I could really take my time testing and persevering until I got the right shot and the technique was stuck in my head. It taught me to look at colour combinations and textures, to walk around the subject to find the best angle and background. With that as a solid base, I learnt the rest by practicing (and making mistakes) during the many test shoots I organised with both friends and model agencies. Q. Have there been any highlights to your career yet? Tell us about them. A. When it comes to shooting, working for clients such as Nylon and Schön! has definitely been a highlight in my career in the last year or two. Writing my first book ‘Lighting People’ (a photography lighting guide out in September 2015) and opening my new photography studio for hire Huddle Studios in East London are two other major highlights of these last 365 days. Two big dreams come true, actually! But I like to think that the biggest highlight of 2015 is yet to come...
...research both wardrobe and beauty trends during and after every fashion week. Q. What do you think about the fashion industry? A. Ahh! How much time have you got? :) This is a difficult question for me to answer and something that I think about very often. Obviously there is a side of me that loves this industry, the creativity, the buzz, even the competition. I absolutely love the people I meet through my job, the passion that I see in their eyes and their work, the opportunity the fashion world gives me to let my imagination run free as if I was still a child after all. But then there is my ethical side that believes that this industry could sometimes do with a little more respect, towards the creatives working in it and especially towards animals, which always seem to be paying the price for human vanity. Q. What is your routine before, during and after your shoot? A. I always dedicate a lot of time to the ‘before’ the shoot. Researching, planning, suggesting the idea to an editor or to a client: to me, these are the most delicate steps of the entire process, where the magic really happens and experience really shows. I spend a long time researching for fashion trends, themes, locations and magazines before I even put together my first mood board.
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THIS SPREAD TOP Georgia Hardinge TROUSERS Alxroe
COLOUR BLOCK PHOTOGRAPHER Thea Baddiley MODEL Kate Howett @ Elite London STYLING Harley Graham HAIR & MAKEUP Moneet Heyer c/o Novel Beings MAKEUP PRODUCT Using Bare Minerals, Laura Mercier & Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
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OBSCURE PHOTOGRAPHER Kaja Jangaard PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS Becky Warbis, Laurence Cannings & Lewis Bench MODEL Laura-Giselle Hardie STYLING Kaja Jangaard STYLING ASSISTANT Libby Jacques MAKEUP Lucille Harding
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BOTH PAGES DRESS Leanne Marshall HEADPIECE Flower Gypsies
HONEST PHOTOGRAPHER Emily Soto MODEL Clare MC @ 1st Option Models HAIR Dawn Monaher @ Hairy Fairy MAKEUP Emily Rebekah LOCATION The Blarney Castle & Gardens Ireland
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THIS PAGE SHIRT Samsoe Samsoe TROUSERS Baartman’s and Siegel COAT Matthew Miller
NEXT PAGE JUMPER Topman HAT Costume Studio
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SHADOWS PHOTOGRAPHER & RETOUCHER Amber Eggleden PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Nana Jr MODELS Asa @Next Management, Jonjo @AMCK, Elliott @Milk Model Management, Magnus @Premier Model Management & Charles @Premier Model Management STYLING Nathan Henry STYLING ASSISTANT Laura Bryan HAIR Kristopher Smith MAKEUP Jenna Micah
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THIS PAGE TOP Wood Wood JACKET Suzanne Rae SKIRT Weekday
NEXT PAGE TURTLENECK & SKIRT Wood Wood TOP Monki RING & Other Stories
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PURE THOUGHTS PHOTOGRAPHER Magnus Schouboe MODEL Vickie Sørensen @ Scoop Models STYLING Lotte Sindahl HAIR & MAKEUP Emilie Aagaard Andreassen
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UNBREAKABLE PHOTOGRAPHER Anna Kirikova MODEL Christina Koksharova STYLING Anastasia Bochegova HAIR & MAKEUP Tanya Savinova CLOTHING DESIGNER Kira Barysheva LEATHER Asya Malbershtein
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PREVIOUS PAGE LEATHER PIECE Nikita Karizma KNITTED PIECE Derek Lawlor DRESS AGA
REQUIEM PHOTOGRAPHER Tetsuya Maehara MODEL Millie Waite @ Wilhelmina London ART DIRECTION & STYLING Hangna S Koh STYLING ASSISTANT Yun Nam Ho HAIR Yuko Aoi MAKEUP Josie Chan MAKEUP PRODUCT Makeup Revolution & Me Me Me Cosmetics
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THIS PAGE CAPE AGA
THIS PAGE JACKET & TOP Minki Cheng TROUSERS Hermione De Paula NECKLACE Mawi London
NEXT PAGE TOP Bimba Y Lola SKIRT Mary Katrantzou - Feathers Fashion JEWELLERY Mawi London
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GUARDED PHOTOGRAPHER Catherine Harbour STYLING Camilla Ashworth PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Bridget Schurch MODEL Eleanor Hayes @ Select Model Management STYLING ASSISTANT Angela Aina HAIR Fabio Nogueira @ Frank Agency MAKEUP Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency MAKEUP PRODUCT Burberry Beauty
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ICELANDIC BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPHER Christian Ammann PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Simon Dickinson MODEL Vera Hilmars STYLING Miriam Dembach @ Styleagent.ch HAIR & MAKEUP Christophe Durand @ Styleagent.ch AGENT Lharepresents.com
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ARTICLE
INTERVIEW BY Olivia Bossert
Interview with: ILLUSTRatOR Pippa McManus
Q. How did your interest in the fashion begin? A. Through my mother I think, she would drag me along to department store fashion parades and had a very keen interest in dressing up. Then I would start requesting to go to these parades regularly. We shopped a lot! Nothing fancy but clothes shopping (along with antique shopping) is a huge memory from my childhood. Q. Why did that interest develop into illustration specifically? A. I started buying international magazines when I was around 14 so my love of high fashion was born. One of the first that I collected was The Face because of my massive teenage obsession with Kate Moss. Along with being a creatively groundbreaking magazine at the time, one of the ongoing advertising campaigns featured over the years was for Finlandia Vodka. Their ads features slim, beautiful fashion girls in luxury scenes, completely illustrated by Jason Brooks. Q. What is the fashion industry like in Australia? Do you think it differs from the rest of the world? A. I’m not really sure! I’ve been lucky enough to go to Paris, London and Milan fashion weeks over the years to illustrate and it’s all very similar. Well backstage is anyway. But of course everything is on a larger scale than here. I do know that designers in Perth have it tough at the moment because of the lack of manufacturers (pattern makers and sewers/ sample makers) and the price they charge. A lot of amazing labels from Perth and around Australian now get their collections made in Indonesia because it’s close and cheap.
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Q. You have a very distinctive style. How long did it take you to achieve this? A. I worked at it for a really long time, I am in my 10th year of fashion illustrating and I think I have only now just hit my stride. I try to come back to a piece of advice I received constantly while studying which was look to anywhere but the industry you are working in for inspiration. So if you are a fashion designer, don’t look at fashion, if you are an artist, don’t look at art. I try to reduce my exposure to other illustrators work so that I’m not absorbing anyone else’s style subconsciously.
...lucky enough to go to Paris, London and Milan fashion weeks over the years to illustrate. Q. Who inspires you the most? A. No one person. I don’t think I could work like that. It’s really so many different elements. Design, fashion design, a model, a colour, an album, it has to be a bunch of different stuff so that my work has some layers and meaning (to me) to it. It’s fashion illustration so I’m not really commenting on any massive global issues through my work so in the end it has to have little bits in it that mean something to me. Q. Do you think that the environment you’ve grown up in has influenced your work? A. Yes hugely! Every little step along the way has had some influence. Perth is so laid back and beachy, everyone here works
ILLUSTRATION ‘Gypset’ Pippa McManus
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HIDDEN GAR DENS PHOTOGRAPHER Megan Simonson MODEL Kim Poholka @ Numa
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THE LONE EXPLORER PHOTOGRAPHER Laura Cammarata MODEL Thea @ Established Models STYLING Graciela Martin HAIR & MAKEUP Virginia Bertolani
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THIS PAGE TOP Markoo TROUSERS Delpozo EARRINGS Arielle De Pinto HAT Vintage CHOKER Stylist’s Own
NEXT PAGE COAT Acne Studios DRESS Whitney Eve SCARF Sage & Ivy SHOES Rachel Comey
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ESCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER Liz Rosa MODEL Shereen Alex @ Detention Agency STYLING Deanna Palkowski HAIR & MAKEUP Paula Lanzador
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NOISE ISSUE SEPTEMBER 201 5
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PHOTOGRAPHY Emily Soto
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