Atlas Magazine | Autumn 2013 by Atlas Magazine

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THE FEVER ISSUE VOLUME 1 | ISSUE 5 | AUTUMN 2013

ATLAS MAGAZINE STAFF Megan Breukelman EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Olivia Bossert CREATIVE DIRECTOR Mathea Millman CONTENT EDITOR

Bryony Hipkin CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Amanda Lynn Jurie SOCIAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVE

Kimberley Hill GRAPHIC & LAYOUT DESIGNER

ENQUIRIES + SUBMISSIONS theatlasmagazine.com theatlasmagazine@gmail.com

COVER + CONTENTS Henryk Lobaczewski ‘THE GAMES’ p. 58

Matjas Tancic ‘HEAT BEYOND’ p. 86

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Editor’s Note

Hot As Summer

12 Ebba 12 Zingmark 15

Upper Class

Fashion Cities

Sport Chic

Good And Plenty

37 Divine 45

From Africa To Rome With Love

Urban Flame

Dior Delirium

The Games

Karen Firth

71 Kaleidoscope 76

Ally Lindsay

79 Faded 84

Jaymie O’Callaghan

Heat Beyond

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EDITOR’S NOTE MEGAN BREUKELMAN

ILLUSTRATION | SCOTT MASON

appy Autumn! Now is the season of change, and Atlas is taking advantage of that. We’re moving ever forward with our fashion direction, and we love where it’s headed. I’m blown away by the talent held in these pages, and sincerely hope you are too.

This issue takes Atlas a step further, as we try to with each edition. We are now available in print, we’re on the web with our own independent website, our blog continues to thrive with your submitted content and we’ve just completed yet another successful giveaway. Your participation in the Atlas world is everything, and we cannot be more grateful for that. We also have some new additions to the team, all of whom helped pull together and round out the issue quite nicely, and I am, as always, so thankful for everyone involved in the production of Atlas. Thank you for reading Atlas Magazine–– do you have the fever?

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HOT AS SUMMER PHOTOGRAPHER

Laura Cammarata

MODEL

Henrietta @ Next Models London

STYLIST Hannah Sheen MAKE UP

Michelle Dacillo

HAIR

Elena Eleftheriou

NAILS

Camilla Kirk-Reynolds

ASSISTANT

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Giulia Bellato

SWIMSUIT Elle-en-Jette EARRINGS Pebble

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SWIMSUIT Elle-en-Jette EARRINGS Links of London

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BIKINI American Apparel BRACELET #1 Links of London BRACELET #2 Pebble

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L: SWIMSUIT Violet Lake R: SWIMSUIT American Apparel RING Links of London

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EBBA ZINGMARK BLOGGER | ebbazingmark.devote.se

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m an 18 year old blogger, student, model, editor and amateur designer from UmeĂĽ, a little city in the north of Sweden. Besides working and studying, I love walking in the big Swedish forests with my dogs and hanging out with my friends.

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WHEN & WHY DID YOU START BLOGGING? I started my blog 4 years ago, when I was 14. My main interest back then was photography so it started out like a photo blog, but by time it developed to a fashion blog. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE? Playful, androgynous and retro! WHAT ARE YOU PASSIONATE ABOUT? Everything creative (like blogging, designing, taking photos, drawing etc.), traveling, animal rights and feminism. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE FASHION SCENE IN SWEDEN? Though we’re a small country, we have some amazing brands (Acne, H&M, Whyred etc.) and we have an enormous amount of stylish and creative bloggers. I think Swedish people are very trend concious in general, we are often quite minimalistic and clean in the way we dress. WHAT INSPIRES YOU? I get so inspired by travelling! Meeting new people and seeing new cool places. When I’m stuck in Umeå, I usually go to lookbook.nu for inspiration. DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE BRAND? No, there’s too many great brands to just pick one. But if I got to choose vintage I’d probably say that, haha. YOU TRAVEL A LOT; WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE DESTINATION? I love Asia! I’ve been to Borneo, Malaysia and China and they were such great experiences. Everything is so different there! I’m probably going to Korea soon and I’m looking for-

ward to it so much! The city I feel the most “like home” in is Berlin. It’s such a cool place with nice people, cool streetart and so much vegan food. And, I’ve got to mention New York too. I could totally live in Williamsburg. WILL YOU BE ATTENDING ANY UPCOMING FASHION WEEKS? I’ll probably be at Stockholm fashion week. But I’d love to visit Berlin fashionweek too, and NYC fashionweek of course. WHAT WILL YOU BE DOING IN 10 YEARS TIME? I have no idea! I’d love to work with fashion in some way. I’ve already tried out blogging, modeling, designing, styling and writing articles and so far I’ve loved it all!

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UPPER CLASS PHOTOGRAPHER

Cecilia Castelletti

MODELS Monika KmitaitĂŠ & Abbey Ashton @ Urban Management STYLIST Daniela Triulzi MAKEUP + HAIR

Claudia Perego

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ILLUSTRATION | Scott Mason

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FASHION CITIES BRYONY HIPKIN

ome cities have the power to lure the fashion conscious;

Fashion Week occurs. Small cities such as Amsterdam have

they have a prowess that is incomparable to others.

much to offer in the way of tourism but problems occur when

Fashion week brings the flash and the famous to the

talented designers show in countries that are not their own.

front rows, along with the editors, power bloggers, buyers and stylists. Everyone who is anyone wants to be there and most

Iris Van Herpen is an international sensation with her 3D

importantly being seen. The famous four are of course New

sculptured creations; her couture collections only gain

York, Paris, London and Milan. They house the biggest shows

momentum and popularity through her undeniable skill. For

and the largest names in the industry. For decades they have

years now she has been showing her collection at Paris Fashion

been the creative hubs of the industry and are widely recognised

Week, Iris however is Dutch. So what draws designers to the

of where you need to make a name for yourself, if you can make

fashion capitals instead of boosting their own countries shows?

it there, you’ve made it everywhere.

Victoria Beckham went from Spice Girl, to WAG to incredibly successful designer. With her collections being one of the largest

Times are changing though, slowly but surely the industry

sellers on Net-a-Porter, some might question why does the

is sitting up and taking note of talented designers that spans

British designer not show in London? Victoria spoke to Idol

multiple countries. Yes, it’s unlikely that you’ll get Anna Wintour

magazine and when questioned about her decision to show in

on your front row if you aren’t showing in the famous four, or

America she explained that when she started her brand London

Karlie Kloss opening your show but there are a few big names

had less recognition than New York, saying; “that was one

that are starting to sit up and take note of international talent.

reason why I started in New York with the shows. And I want

New cities are starting to take a prominent place and gain

to continue to pay my respects to the Americans; New York

recognition for their hardworking designers with increasing

offers me a big stage. One should never say never, maybe I’ll do

expertise.

something in London also, because of course I appreciate the British fashion industry.”

When it comes to branching out to other cities there is a few that stand out above the rest, expanding across the continents, form

Jumping continents Brazil could not be more culturally different

Rio to Sydney and a fair few in between. In the Netherlands

from the Netherlands, as the world’s sixth largest economy, over

Amsterdam is producing simplistic and elegant collections

50 brands featured their collections at Sao Paulo Fashion Week

from the likes of Rebecca Ward and Winde Reinstra. There is no

and Fashion Rio. For a country that stages one of the largest

doubt that the ability is there but it is a slow and long-winded

carnivals in the world and has a population of over 200,000,000

process to produce and capture a larger audience when their

there is very little to currently shout about.

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Two of the countries most prominent independent designers,

down the runway in perfectly proper pleated skirts that soon

Pedro Lourenço and Lucas Nascimento have respectively been

transitioned into a darker series of black, drop waist dresses,

showing in London and Paris and more established designer

paired with black knee boots that would suit anyone in a cool

Gloria Coelho skipped the current season. It is not all doom and

climate.

gloom though for Brazil, 10 magazine for their 2012/13 Winter

Tokyo has it’s own culturally diverse fashion that has not

Spring issue dedicated it entirely to Rio. They recognised that

transitioned internationally; in fact it is located uniquely around

although the country may not be established as a fashion hub

the Harajuku district of Tokyo. Starting in the 1980s the trend has

when it comes to having a Fashion Week, there is still a lot of

become more prominent in recent years, the style incorporates

talent that is not to be underestimated. We cannot forget the

mass amounts of kookiness and can come across very cutesy,

models that Brazil had produced and who have seen success

there is though an element of Lolita Goth that originated in

on a phenomenal scale. Adriana Lima, one of Victoria’s Secret’s

Japan. Inspired by Victorian women and children, girls and

most recognisable faces, along with the striking Alessandra

women try to imitate porcelain dolls and anime characters.

Ambrosio and simply one of the most successful models turned

This street style is sparse on the catwalks in Tokyo but the cities’

entrepreneur, Gisele Bundchen. Brazil may be no where near

eccentricity is making us sit up and take note about what it will

as popular or recognised as the likes of New York but don’t dismiss Brazil quite yet, keep your eyes peeled for Lucas Nascimento, who likes to play with colour when creating his womenswear collections and Dudu Bertholini who’s designs are even more eccentric than him.

“It appears that designers do their best to show where they feel the market is.”

It appears that designers do their best to

China in it’s own right is a super power, one day with the ability to become a force for fashion. Designers with Chinese heritage have been domineering the industry since they produced their first collections; Vera Wang, Phillip Lim and Jason Wu create sell out collections every season and Wang’s

show where they feel the market is. America has long been

bridal range is among the most desirable in the world. There is

recognised as a consumerist nation however with wealth and

however some designers that if you aren’t aware of them now,

population rising in Japan and China their own Fashion Weeks

you will be soon. Peter Som who has worked with bold floral

are becoming prominent on the calendar. Tokyo Fashion

print and Yiqing Yin who, whether to your taste or not, creates

Week saw an explosion of talent and designs with commercial

wondrous pieces from various types of fur. China has seen an

desirability. Conny Groenewegen for A/W13 produced a

increase in interest in high fashion within their cities since the

compact collection that included cinched leather jackets, and

launch of Vogue China. With Editor-in-Chief Angelica Cheung

subtle use of sheer panelling that gave an allure that wouldn’t

at the helm the magazine has seen it’s readership double and

look out of place on Net-a-Porter. Groenewegan was not the

impressively the first issue had to be reprinted after five days.

only brand that grabbed our attention, Cotoo sent it’s models

bring in the not so distant future.

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If others in the Chinese fashion industry have her work ethic,

Overall it is city that has a few core successful ‘homegrown’

“At peak times I am often at my desk until 4 or 5 in the morning,”

design talent but not an entirely thriving fashion week. It

Cheung told 10 Magazine, the country and it’s prominent cities

is however becoming a hub of culture and style through its

are likely to experience a massive surge in spending on designer

innovative stores. Berlin has something to offer everyone, if

goods. Cheung seems to have gauged China’s future when it

you find yourself lusting over high-end labels and international

comes to the fashion industry, “The logo is king in China and

designs then head to Wald. Model Joyce Binneboese and stylist

rich people are really rich. So it is a perfect place to grow fashion

Dana Roski stock their ultra slick store with brands that they

quickly – especially as the Chinese always know what they want,

find on their travels. If your taste lingers more towards vintage

and they know the labels they want, from Vuitton to Mulberry.”

finds the must stop shop for you is Wunderkind Vintage. The allure of this niche store is what it stocks, always garments over

Looking at the European cities, close to Paris we have Berlin.

two seasons old but also pieces that never went into production

The city has a rich history; torn by war and united through

so you’re guaranteed to be buying something that is truly one

revolution, today Berlin is making its mark on the industry in

of a kind.

a positive way. It is lacking Paris’ allure but there is no doubt that designers such as Irene Luft, who has now shown five times

It’s clear that right now, the big four are untouchable on scale and

at Berlin Fashion Week, has a creative flair that is not for the

quality. Chanel will remain in Paris, Karen Millen will reside in

faint hearted. Her most recent collection saw models adorned

New York, Vivienne Westwood will stay in eclectic London and

in gold, white and Perspex, often mixed together making

Dolce and Gabbana are only at home in Milan. What we can

whimsical and altogether sexual garments. Whether her designs

say for certain though is that fashion is a big business in any

have a home on the streets of Berlin or any city for that matter is

country, and in some it is becoming bigger. In time we will see

up for debate, you cannot help though but take a great interest

other cities dismantling the ritual of New York, Milan, London

in some of her more risqué pieces. Among the collection, a mini

and Paris, there is certainly talent to be found globally but many

Perspex dress that is delicately covered in what appears to be

young and new designers find trouble in financing their first

miniature origami structures left very little to the imagination

collections and being recognised without their shows being

and provided a sense of futurism that could push the city

included in the four currently most influential cities.

into the limelight for it’s fashion industry in years to come.

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CROP Nike SINGLET ASOS SKIRT Bardot SHOES Converse

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SPORT CHIC PHOTOGRAPHER

Kim Akrigg

MODEL Abby @ Division Model Management STYLIST Kate J Ryder MAKEUP

Aimee Brandenburg

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CAP Cotton On TOP Witchery SHORTS Talulah SHOES Converse

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CROP Adidas SINGLET Bardot SKIRT Witchery SHOES Steve Madden NECKLACE Sportsgirl

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T-SHIRT Nike SHORTS ASOS SHOES Converse NECKLACE Forever New

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BIKINI Roxy PANTS Cotton On SHOES Converse NECKLACE Cotton On

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GOOD AND PLENTY FARAH GHAUS

rowing up as the only born of two immigrant

faith is an achievement, no doubt. In the same instant, I question

parents from polar opposite backgrounds, I

the effect it must have on any woman’s psyche. When a woman

was both blessed and cursed by the collision of

remains faceless among a crowd as the result of a cloth muzzle,

cultures in my household. My father, a native of Pakistan,

a nobody except for her by-birth title of female, does that not

and my mother, a half-breed army brat from the Philippines,

-- at least a little bit -- damage her sense of self? I’ve never had

arrived in the United States from different homelands

to remain invisible, so deciphering whether it would be more of

but with similar tales, some of which I have heard.

a burden or a luxury is something that I’m ill-equipped to do.

Throughout my life, I’ve carried these stories with me, but it wasn’t

I do pose this question, though: does clothing act as a

until my second year at college when I took a fashion history

mechanism for power? Absolutely. History has told us so. From

class that one real lesson resonated with me from those tales... I’ll elaborate. In centuries past, monarchy dictated what people wore based on their social rank. Nowadays, in Western civilization,

“... does clothing act as a mechanism for power?”

that’s clearly no longer our reality. It’s permissible for men and women to pick their wardrobes.

Michelle Obama to Madonna, influential women throughout history have used their wardrobes as tools for garnering attention, respect, and most importantly, power. Princess Diana was not only an advocate to people, but a style icon as well. Beyoncé isn’t only a performer and business mogul but

almost equally a trendsetter. Mother Theresa is, of course, the omnipotent exception to this theory.

That’s not, however, the case for many Eastern and African nations. As a result of cultural or religious laws dictating what

So, what’s my objective? Definitely not to revolutionize entire

females can wear in public, common outfits that cover the

cultural masses into changing the way they treat their women

entire body, hair and often the face are worn by women. Among

(Though, that’s a sweet and ambitious thought.). My point is to

these are the hijab, the jalabeeb, the niqab, and the burqa. Some

challenge you to view fashion, specifically the ability to show our

have called these garments oppressive or backwards, but many

inner-most selves through how we dress, as a luxury not a liberty.

women who wear them say they do it of their own accord as an

It can be taken away from us at any moment. It’s something to

act of worship.

give thanks for and remains a tool that, if mastered, can be used to either muffle or magnify our voices.

This, I can admire. Any kind of sacrifice on behalf of one’s own

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ILLUSTRATION | Rachel Estrada

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DIVINE PHOTOGRAPHERS

Kevin Chung & Nicollette Mollet

ART DIRECTION

Kevin Chung

MODEL Jeff @ Kim Dawson STYLIST Michelle Evans MAKEUP + HAIR

Rick Flores @ Campbell

DESIGNER

Charles Smith II

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NECKLACE Jewelry-Heir

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44 THE FEVER ISSUE

FROM AFRICA TO ROME WITH LOVE CLAIRE CAILLAUX

ood evening, good afternoon and for the more daring

when you buy it, wear it, wash it, sniff it, feel it, kiss it, love it

of you, good morning. I should start by

(okay, you get my point). We live in a world (and we are in love

telling you a little bit about myself, but because I

with an industry) were people are killed in factories just so we

am a quasi-pathological over-sharer, I am probably going to be

can have our $12.99 crème V neck (I just counted, I own 4) but

telling you a lot more. My name is Claire and this summer, my

where is the ‘class’ in that? Surely fast fashion will never be en

dear friends, I got a job.

vogue, so why keep feeding the multibillion-dollar ‘cheap thrills’ monster? This lack of both Fashion platforms and reforms

As the more perceptive of you may have realized, this is a fashion

made me wonder where the powerful people are in all of this.

magazine. If you have not been made aware of this, I will kindly

Where are the fashion moguls, the businessmen, and the buyers

ask you to give me a moment as I jump off a cliff to recuperate

when you need them? Their megalomaniac consciences should

from the brutal slashing you have just given my faith in humanity;

maintain the quality high and our bank accounts low, to save

but first, let’s get back to that job shall we? This summer the idea

the world from the intoxicating grip of fast fashion…Oh wait,

that it’s always fashion week somewhere resonated more than

I found them!

ever – from the timeless likes of Pitti Imagine to the increasingly popular Men’s Fashion Week(s), fashionistas everywhere are

Altas readers (Atlaseers? Altaseurs? We’ll find something) I

able to quench their omnipresent sartorialist thirsts throughout

would like to introduce you to AltaModAltaRoma, a.k.a. Rome

the summer months. Except for one little problem; not all of us

Fashion Week.

are ankle crop wearing, elegantly manorexic homes. Now don’t get me wrong, a pair of Church’s will make me salivate as much

Yup, that’s right. For the past two years, during the first week

as the next guy but sometimes, just sometimes, I need some

of July, the eternal city lends itself to our dear fashion mogul

vagina power to remind me that although I am in love with

amigos and the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier. It’s frows (‘front rows’

anything tailored, I am indeed a girl (nooot yet a womaaaan,

for any of you still needing Fashion-to-English transaltions) seat

thanks for that interlude Britney). Let’s face it, there is a severe

the impeccably dressed deriers of every Fendi known to man, as

lack of vag-appropriate fashion platforms during the summer

well as the likes of Beppe Modenese, Franca Sozzani, Simonetta

months. By that I don’t just mean ‘lady fashion’ but fashion that

Gianfelici and even her royal fashion-ness, Suzy Menkes.

actually means something, fashion that makes you feel good

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The objective of AltaRoma is to create a platform for up and

color into their wardrobes. I would know, I am one of the many

coming international designers to merge and network with

sartorially inclined which has fallen pray to the playful grip of

historic Italian fashion houses. It has introduced some incredible

her exotically perfect fabrics. Which brings us to the epitome of

and innovative minds to the fashion industry. Every year, this

this so-called article as (brace yourselves) fabrics, is what my job

celebration of creativity and youthful innovation is elevated to

was all about.

the highest degree globally, with the ‘Who Is On Next?’ talent competition. (I had to put it in italics because the words ‘talent

This summer, I interned at the International Trade Centre’s

competition’ give me the vile mental image of Honey Booboo

Ethical Fashion Initative, an initiative with more heart,

designing a womenswear collection) Sponsored and created

passion, will power and determination to do good than

by Vogue Italia and her fearless leader Franca Sozzani, the

any other organization I have ever come across. Through a

competition has seen some of the most talented young designers

common love for fashion and fairness, they work to give a

be given international recognition for the qualities that should

ceremonial (and impeccably manicured) middle finger to the

truly matter in a collection; innovation, creativity, and most

fast fashion bubble we all seem to be trapped in and to bring

importantly the ability to do something nobody else has done

back the true value of “slow fashion”. Lead by the fearless

before. Last year’s winners’ edge was her stereotype shattering aesthetic and her 100% ethical production. This remarkable woman will serve as the connecting force between my rambling madness and an actual article about this god forsaken job you still know nothing about. Her name is Stella Jean, her roots are Haitian,

“... to embrace the skills of artisans in the developing world”

leader that is Mr. Simone Cipriani and with a team of the most intelligent and capable fashion savants I’ve ever had the pleasure to be enslaved by (after all, intern life is a hard knock life) the Ethical Fashion Initiative work to connect local artisans all over the world, from Haiti to Burkina Faso, with major global fashion labels such as Vivienne Westwood,

her fabrics are made with nothing but sustainable love and her

Stella McCartney, sass&bide, Chan Luu, United Arrows and

clothes are explosive.

Carmina Campus, to name just a few. They provide work for marginalized people who have a strong desire to change their

It is rare – impossible even - to find garments that flawlessly

lives through fair, meaningful work and enable the fashion

synthesize an exciting and forceful aesthetic, with timeless

world to embrace the skills of artisans in the developing world.

Italian class and true production responsibility. Thankfully for

all of us, there exists a certain Stella Jean, a fashion designer

It is not charity, it’s just work. In July of this year AltaRoma and

whose aesthetic vision has the ability to transcend entire

the Ethical Fashion Initiative collaborated to promote, showcase

cultures and give us all major fashion boners in the process.

and, let’s face it, amaze the world with the collections of four

Her ‘SS14’ collection could inspire even the most skeptically

incredible labels; Christie Brown, Kiki Clothing, PortenierRoth

monochrome of fashion enthusiasts to inject a healthy dose of

and, of course Stella Jean.

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The goal was to prove to the fashion world that we can do

force and sustainable fashion as one of its most cherished assets.

fashion AND we can do good. The magic behind these

No. 2: Artisanal work (slow, meticulous, meaningful) is worth

collections was not only in the completed runway looks but in

fighting buying for. As Simone Cipriani preached at the end

the textiles themselves. Every thread used for these collections

of the AltaRoma Ethical Fashion Africa to Rome catwalk, “We

was hand woven in Burkina Faso by the incredible Ethical

live in a world where we know the price of everything and the

Fashion Initiative weaver communities; bringing a little piece of

value of nothing.” So let’s find that value people! It is hidden in

Africa to Rome with a story to tell and an inspirational woman

the cracks of the fashion industry, through the layers of bullshit

to thank for it’s impeccable intricacy.

that cause factories to burn and thousands of people to die. It’s hidden but it’s there.

So, what am I trying to tell you, really? No. 1: No need to fear during the summer months! We’ve got you

Join the army of Ethical Fashionistas by liking the ITC Ethical

covered with the eternal city as the summertime answer to the

Fashion Initiative Facebook page. The next stop is Lagos Fashion

Lincoln Centre (not a bad deal) with innovation as it’s driving

Week to bring Rome… to Africa.

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DRESS

Pepe Jeans

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URBAN FLAME PHOTOGRAPHER

Veronika Wurfbaum

MODEL Annika-Marie Leick @ Modelwerk STYLIST Nina Michl MAKEUP + HAIR

Sebastian Weber

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COAT + SHOES Sebastian Ellrich TIGHTS Falke

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L: BLOUSE Zara SKIRT Franziska Michael R: DRESS Pepe Jeans

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DIOR DELIRIUM WILLIAM EVANS

ILLUSTRATIONS | ANNA BLACHUT

ith seven collections now firmly under his belt,

in its desirability, but it was visually enthralling and the lust

including three Haute Couture and two ready to

to touch and own each piece became contagious. Nothing

wear, Raf Simons has had an infectious impact on

was reigned in and in no way did Raf Simons hold back , a

fashion. Spreading his modern minimalism, innovative couture

purposeful move most likely to show just how serious he

craftmanship and restrained glamour throughout the industry.

is about freedom; an intellectual statement to make that

The DNA and codes behind the house still remain, but the Dior

clearly coincides with just how much life and movement the

woman has become free and more liberated in her power rather

house of Dior has gained under Raf Simons new direction.

than suppressed into a more expected and predictable style. What Simons does so well is combine just about everything.

Some designers prefer to exist soley in the safe solidarity and

With obvious nods to the past and the Christian Dior archive he

reassurance they have created for themselves, but what Raf

is still able to combine this with revitilising twists and his purist

Simons did for the Dior fall 2013 couture collection was take

vision juxtaposed with the modernality of fashion in todays modern world. For his fall 2013 couture collection for Dior Raf Simons did something completely different yet totally suitable for the new Dior customer and the houses emerging voice.

one large brave step. When things begin to

“When things begin to heat up, Simons sure does keep his cool.”

heat up, Simons sure does keep his cool. If its choice the Dior customer wanted from the collection then it was choice she got, and Raf Simons catered for every demand his customer might all around the globe. There were classic pieces such as the Bar jacket and

Freedom was the definitive message behind the collection, a

strapless evening gowns but they were revamped and now new

theme that seems to have stuck with Simons and his influentional

pieces had been added such as tribal colour draped dresses

mood from his first collection for the house. Freedom, within

and cropped voluminous jackets that acted as brother pieces to

the realms of couture, seems segregated and as pairing could

its sisters in the Dior family. Most of the evening looks were

create something almost visually unharmonios. But the freedom

strapless which echoes Simons emphasis on making Couture

for this collection was spun from a breadth of knowledge and

wearable and believable. Make no mistake, these are dresses

experience, knowledge that Raf Simons has and can reside in. He

for the evening and for special occasions but that doesn’t

knows full well that these ideas materialsed into clothes would

stop them from being visually euphoric and pure enchanting

be a successful triumph and a step into all the right directions.

ecstasy. Although couture is undeniably not for everyone or for everyday Raf Simons provided clothes that inspired and

The collection was a mix of influenes and refereneces taken from all around the world, focusing on Europe, Asia, Africa and America. It wasn’t literal and it wasn’t overtly obvious

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fascinated everyone. This prompts the question, could couture become contagious?

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Each look just about nailed who the new Dior customer

away from the body paid homage to the expansion of

is and where she is in the world and more precisely what

technology and modern culture in Asia. Some pieces

she wears in the world. Raf Simons proved just how

, like a white pleated three tier skirt interjected with an

powerful his global message was from head to shoulders

essence of prim French ballerinas and American street

and even down to the knees and toes. The hair was slick

wear, was hard to pin down to just one place on the Raf

back and up, a reflection perhaps that Simons has made

Simons global Dior spectrum. There are pieces in the

the Christian Dior girl more mature and in control. Some

collection that are going to be obvious best sellers such

looks had tribal neckpieces whilst others had neck wraps

as knee length Fur coats and strapless evening dresses,

and scarves, after all, not every Dior customer around the

one in particular with Simons signature stripe in an

world can dare to go bare. The chic grey tweed tailored

arrestingly bold orange will no doubt send editors pulses

jackets and skirt combinations were ambassadors for the

racing.

Parisian ease and precision of France whilst the more

two dimensional and aesthetically cleansing pieces such

What Raf Simons set out to do at Christian Dior was

as a blue cropped jacket with a sporty neck scarf flew

cemented in the fall 2013 couture collection for the house.

the flag for America. Tribal Beading embellishment and

If its all about change and embracing the world around us

native inspired colours draped vertically and horizontally

then who wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be ready to take a trip around Simons

across the body acted as representatives for Africa whilst

world. As this new fashion fever begins to spread one

strapless dresses with fabrics that spiked and stood

thing is for sure, no one will be looking for the cure.

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THE GAMES PHOTOGRAPHER

Henryk Lobaczewski

MODEL Michaela Olsson @ IMG STYLIST Lydia-Jane Saunders MAKEUP

Amelia Axton

HAIR

Luke Nicholson

STYLING ASSISTANT Rachel Colless

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HEAD PIECE Suzie O’Rourke BODY HARNESS Babylikestopony BRA Sass and Bide PANTS Zhivago DRESS* Zhivago *worn as cape NECK CUFF Sarah and Sebastian

60 THE FEVER ISSUE

DRESS CUFF ARMOUR

Phoenix Keating Samantha Wills Plague of Man

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DRESS RING CUFFS JACKET

Argyle Agrum Garland Row Serpent & The Swan Mister Zimmi

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SHORTS JACKET RING CROWN

Inder Dhillon Zhivago Made in Earth Creations Sarah and Sebastian

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ILLUSTRATION | Jamie Wignall

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KAREN FIRTH JEWELY DESIGNER | bitesizeminiatures.com

y name is Karen Firth and I’m a quirky jewelry

Bite Size Miniatures’ Instagram and Twitter profiles!

designer from Montreal, Canada. I run my own online business, Bite Size Miniatures, from

What sums me up... I’m a 23 year old lover of jewelry, street style,

my cozy home studio near the downtown area of the city.

coffee, tea, TV and cake. Over the years I’ve collected a mish-

Bite Size Miniatures provides fun, bright, affordable and

mash of an education background, from Filmmaking to History

unique food jewelry. Everything is handmade by me out

and Anthropology, and most recently, a degree in Costume

of polymer clay. My happy coworkers are two crazy cats,

Design. I had no idea I would end up designing jewelry for a

Frank and Chloe, and a fun, loving pug named Truman.

living, but that’s what is awesome about the surprises life can

It’s safe to say that Truman has become the star and mascot of

bring you.

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My journey into jewelry design started from an unusual

waters with new items and collection ideas, and finally finishing

interest for all things miniature. I would subscribe to

my diploma, I launched the official Bite Size Miniatures Summer

miniature dollhouse magazines and think “Hmm, I wonder

2013 collection, “A Day at the Carnival”, in May. The collection

if I could do this”. Having some time on my hands a few

is available to order today at www.bitesizeminiatures.com.

summers ago, I bought myself my first miniature food book, some tools and clay and started sculpting away.

My design process begins with an overall collection idea. I always end up with too many themes and usually create a poll

The miniature food I started creating was in 1:12th scale....so,

on my social media pages to ask my customers what they’d

pretty small. I liked doing it and decided to take it on as a part-

prefer, and then go from there. I’m a research junkie so I spend

time Etsy hobby shop. The shop did okay for a while but I wanted

hours upon hours collecting images and videos that relate to my

to make it more interesting. That’s when I decided to hook a

theme. With that in hand, I draw my designs on paper and then

chain and a pair of stud earrings to a miniature pie and pie slices.

make a final selection. I then create the food designs in clay.

My mind suddenly exploded with ideas and I was immediately

Once I’m happy with the final product, I call up a photographer

inspired by all the possibilities that this new kind of jewelry

and model to shoot the collection. Then it’s time to launch the

brought me. Though there do exist a handful of successful food

new line!

jewelry businesses, I have yet to come across one that presents its products as actual fashion lines, with collections, themes, etc.

With Bite Size Miniatures, I want to give people a personal,

With this idea in mind, the official Bite Size Miniatures online

friendly, exciting and easy shopping experience. I love interacting

boutique was born.

with new people, so by default I’m a social media junkie. I try to make every part of my creating process as interactive as it

The next step was to give Bite Size Miniatures its own website.

can be, by using my Twitter, Tumblr, Instagram and Facebook

With about six months left of my Costume Design degree, I

profiles. I love talking to my customers, hearing their ideas and

created www.bitesizeminiatures.com and begun selling my start-

making them smile with my unique and quirky designs. With

up collection. With the help of social media, some awesome

Bite Size Miniatures, every day is an exciting adventure and I

bloggers and my amazing customers, the site has quickly grown

can’t wait to see what’s next!

and I still can’t believe how well it is doing. Having tested the

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SWIMSUIT PRINTED PANTS HAT + JEWELRY

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American Apparel Maison Scotch Stylist’s own

KALEIDOSCOPE PHOTOGRAPHER

Valentina Pezzo

MODEL Alexandra A @ Option Model Zurich STYLIST Sharon Anne Reiber MAKEUP

Anna Kalashnikova

HAIR

Ilaria Pilia

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VEST CORSET SHORTS BELT JEWELRY R: JACKET SHORTS SUNGLASSES JEWELRY

Avant Première Baghdadi Melii Strawberry Vintage Stylist’s own Melii Strawberry Melii Strawberry Stylist’s own Stylist’s own

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L: TOP R: JACKET DRESS SHOES JEWELRY

Love21 Melii Strawberry Forever 21 Jeffrey Campbell Stylist’s own

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ALLY LINDSAY

PHOTOGRAPHER | thefrenchfry.com + instagram.com/allylindsay

HOW DO YOU DEFINE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHIC

out I observe and I let people pass. I have to want to attack a

STYLE?

moment. I won’t photograph something unless I have some

I see my street style as inspiration for the editorial work that

sort of instinct about it. My images are rarely posed and I

I want to focus more on. I love shooting street style and I

don’t talk to people. It’s actually kind of awkward the way I

feel very connected to it. I am caught up in the moment

prefer to shoot. I like that you can shoot this documentary

and it is a very instinctual process.

style during fashion week and people just ignore you without people being alarmed or uncomfortable. I feel like

WHAT IS YOUR SHOOTING PROCESS DURING

a national geographic photographer in the wild and the

FASHION WEEK?

fashion people are prancing around in their flamboyant

I like to go before a show (I shoot NYC and Paris fashion

outfits and I have to run in and not disturb anything but I

weeks) and see people arrive but my favorite is when people

still have to get the moment.

come out and it’s a sea of color and shapes. As they come

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WHERE DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION?

WHAT ROLE DOES YOUR INSTAGRAM PLAY

I am inspired by the 20’s, 60’s and 90’s; old Jewish women

IN YOUR LIFE?

who wear a lot of rings; gold, crystals, natural fibers and a

My instagram is my photo sketchbook. It helps me see the

glam bohemian style; the photographer Martin Paar and

world from a different point of view. It is interesting what

the Norwegian fashion blogger, Maja Casablancas.

people come in contact with during the day and I like to show what I come in contact with and it’s very personal.

YOU GREW UP & WENT TO SCHOOL IN DETROIT.

Obviously its instant too which I love. I think about

HOW DID THE CITY INSPIRE & SHAPE YOUR

immediacy a lot. I’m inspired by what I see in the moment

PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLE?

and documentary is so instantaneous and spontaneous.

I started shooting parties because there is this kid club

That’s why I’m so interested in instagram right now.

scene there. It’s grungy, slightly gothic and really positive. I felt like I fit in there with these people so well. No two

WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO CONVEY IN YOUR IMAGES?

people looked the same and everyone’s personal style was

Personal style is ultimately what I’m showing. Even if it’s

so different. I started photographing my friends with my

a cropped image of a small piece of someone’s outfit then

canon G10 with a flash and I started realizing I liked that

I think about how their style is a reflection of who they

stark movement. Detroit as a whole is really difficult and

are. I love style. It doesn’t matter if a piece of clothing is

coming from that you really appreciate any opportunely.

from Balenciaga or vintage or Zara, its about these pieces

That’s something that’s always stuck with me though.

all together and how someone wears it. I love when I see someone’s personality in what they are wearing. That’s what draws me to the industry and it is what I ultimately love.

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ARMOR NECKLACE NECKLACE

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Sofia Marlon Laure Mory

FADED PHOTOGRAPHER

Benjo Arwas

MODEL Darya STYLISTS Mariana Giordana & Raquel Crispim MAKEUP

Michele Catillon

HAIR

Davide Pereira Palos

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ARMOR NECKLACE CROCODILE

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Sofia Marlon Laure Mory

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BRA

Marianna Giordana

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BRA HEADPIECE COLLAR

Marianna Giordana Laure Mory Miraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;belle

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JAYMIE O’CALLAGHAN JEWELRY DESIGNER | jewellerybyjaymie.bigcartel.com

WHO INSPIRES YOU THE MOST?

WHAT IS THE JEWELY INDUSTRY LIKE IN THE UK?

There is pretty much an endless list but the people who

I think there’s a lot of independant, interesting and exciting

inspire me the most (probably pretty obvious if you’ve

designers, shops and brands in England. It’s exciting to see

been on my shop before haha) Marilyn Monroe, Audrey

where it could go in the future and maybe have even more

Hepburn, James Dean, Edie Sedgewick,Twiggy, Birkin,

recognition. Jewellery can really add a different element to

Marie Antoinette, Characters from films such as Suzy

an outfit and overall style.

Bishop, Margot Tenenbaum, Lux Lisbon, Dorothy from Wizard of Oz. Artists like Frida Kahlo, Andy Warhol,

WHAT IS YOUR ALL TIME FAVOURITE PIECE OF

Gisele Scanlon, The directors Wes Anderson, Baz

JEWELY?

Luhrmann, Sofia Coppola ... the list goes on!

I change all the time! I use to be obsessed with necklaces and had SO many, then I moved on to rings and now I

WHO IS THE GIRL YOU DESIGN FOR?

seem to be taking a fancy to earrings. During summer

I like to think I design for a girl who is fun, a girly kind

bracelets are a staple as I like to collect them from holidays,

of tomboy, contradictive, nostalgic, fanciful, cute, naughty

trips and places that I have visited. I like to think of it as a

and has a splash of weird all mixed in there.

visual wearable memento board on my arm!

IF YOU HAD THE POSSIBILITY TO DESIGN FOR ONE

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS TIME?

PERSON IN THE WHOLE WORLD, WHO WOULD IT

To have my own little shop which sells my art-work and

BE?

other artists/ illustrators beautiful pieces, as well as my

I would absoloutely love to create a piece for Alexa Chung,

own jewellery, merchandise, fashion and have amazing

Katy Perry and Zooey Deschannel... but if I had to pick

little local musicians, bands, poets play whilst serving

one, let’s go with Katy Perry as I could go a bit crazy and

tea, cake and cocktails... maybe in New York (a girl can

costume like with it!

dream!)

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE YOU TO CREATE A

You can find Jaymie at :

PIECE?

www.jewellerybyjaymie.bigcartel.com

It really depends on what the design is and what is involved

www.jaymieocallaghan.blogspot.co.uk

in the piece that I am making. The shortest amount of

@JaymieOC (twitter and Instagram)

time for making a single piece would probably be around

@By_Jaymie

20 minutes from start to finish.

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HEAT BEYOND CREATIVE DIRECTOR Fausto Leoni PHOTOGRAPHER

Matjas Tancic

MODEL Kathy Qi @ Modelline STYLIST Tessa O’Connor MAKEUP

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Nina Grifee

NECKLACE House of Willow UNDERGARMENT Altered H&M CROP Adidas SHOES D:Fuse

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SUNGLASSES Stylist’s own JACKET Y-3 SHOES D:Fuse

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SUNGLASSES Stylist’s own NECKLACE House of Willow CROP Adidas DRESS Y-3 SHOES D:Fuse

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HAT NECKACE SWIMWEAR SHOES

Elisabeth Koch Millinery House of Willow Y-3 D:Fuse

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HAT SWIMWEAR SHOES R: HEADPIECE DRESS SHOES

Elisabeth Koch Millinery La Clover D:Fuse The Royal We Collection Y-3 D:Fuse

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ILLUSTRATION | Tony Li

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THE ELECTRIC ISSUE Submissions due October 31 Read our submission guidelines at

theatlasmagazine.com Submit your work to

theatlasmagazine@gmail.com

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