The Baltic Guide ENG January 2013

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ENGLISH EDITION/JANUARY 2012

WINTER FUN in Estonia

LIVE MUSIC VENUE GUIDE TO TALLINN WWW.BALTICGUIDE.EE

Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History

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PEREOPTIKA & SÄÄSTUOPTIKA – WW-Passaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10, Tallinn (tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045) VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA – Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn (tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957) STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044) across from Stockmann PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA – Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336) gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard) Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

3 Contents ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

Get outside

I

t may be minus 20, a temperature so cold that it seems silly to venture outside when you could simply sit by the fire and enjoy mulled wine, but you'd be missing out. Estonia is a northern European country, and to enjoy the outdoors this time of year, we must all make certain sacrifices, like the feeling in our fingers.

Have you ever tried cross-country skiing? This is the national winter pastime. Everyone is getting ready for the Tartu Marathon in February, and so can you. There are many places to ski in Tallinn, where you can even rent equipment.

Take a walk through the Old Town. The quiet

snow-covered streets almost make you feel like you’ve gone back in time. But be careful, snow and icicles have been known to fall from the rooftops. Do as the locals do and walk in the centre of street.

Not convinced, I understand. It is minus 20 after all. There is plenty to do inside too! Tallinn has quickly become a gastronomical paradise. Enjoy local and international cuisines, at prices that won’t break the travel budget. Or enjoy some of the museums and art galleries in town.

Happy New Year, (and keep warm!)

5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 January events 10 -11 sports 12-13 shopping 14-15 restaurants 16 sights 18 beauty 19 museums 20 -21 nightlife 22 history

Kristina Lupp Editor-in chief

14-15 restaurants SALT Georgian Tavern Tbilisi Papa Joe Söökla 50 best restaurants

01 TOP SPEEDS AT THE SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDS Race down the hill at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds! Enjoy snowtubing and a snowboard park. No equipment, no problem; you can rent anything you need on site.

12-13

02 TERE PERESTROIKA The band J.M.K.E. is an Estonian punk rock band that formed in Tallinn in 1986. 27 years later they have become legends.

See them live at the Rock Café in Tallinn on January 18, to help them celebrate their birthday. Not familiar with their music?

The song 'Tere Perestroika' was a top hit.

shopping Where to shop in Tallinn

03 DOCUMENTARY FILMS IN TALLINN For the fourth year in a row DocPoint films can be seen in Tallinn. DocPoint is one of the largest documentary film festivals in Northern Europe, and the only one of its kind in Finland. The festival will take place in Tallinn, January 24-27.

04 HERE, FISHY FISHY… The largest fishing competition in the Baltics will take place February 16 on Viljandi Lake. Kuldkala 2013 awards a cash prize to the person who catches the correctly marked fish. Enjoy a competitive atmosphere, fish foods, and music on the day of the competition.

18

05 DANCING UNDER THE WINTER SKY

beauty

Pick up your free copy at:

JANUARY 2013

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Nail Spa Medemis

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Ski jumping at the Nõmme Snow Park. (Pg 10)

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The cold doesn’t scare off these dancers that gather for the Viljandi Folk Dancing Festival. The festival takes place from January 31 to February 2 in Viljandi. Since 1998, this event has brought dance enthusiasts to the ethno capital. Everyone is welcome.

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This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2â‚Ź. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

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tram routes

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getting

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 2

10

PELGURANNA

PORT A, B terminals 9 8 D terminal

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION 12

VIRU

11

OLD TOWN

7

6

11 3 3 4

5

13

Tallinn city transportation tickets can be purchased in advance from kiosks or directly from the driver. One hour, three-day and five-day tickets are available. Tickets must be validated at the beginning of the journey. Persons travelling without a ticket are subject to a 40â‚Ź fine.

3

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STATION

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AIRPORT

Further information on routes and timetables: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

3 4 TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMĂ„E

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

PORT

KADRIORG

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

SIKUPILLI

VEERENNI

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD ‡ ZZZ VWHDN HH 7DOOLQQ 9LUX

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14

TICKETS AND ROUTES MERIMETSA

ROCCA AL MARE

airport

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â‚Ź. www.citytour.ee

â– Transport â– BY BUS:

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

â– BY TRAIN:

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Train Station (Balti jaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn

Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee

From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town

From the bus station to the city: TO/FROM STOCKHOLM tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee

www.edel.ee

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG

www.gorail.ee

St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

â– BY AIR:

Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn

Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng

â– BY SEA: From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

TO/FROM HELSINKI EckerĂś Line - www.eckeroline.ee

â– Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.

Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

â– Airport and Port Transfers Getting to the port:

Free Bus from the Port

Getting to the Airport

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The MĂľigu Bus Line also passes through the port.

For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab.

The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź.

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/ prismabuss.php?lang=fin

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam.

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź. The no 90K bus operates between Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport and centrally located Tallinn hotels. It runs from 7:20am until 6:40pm every 20 min daily. A one-way ticket costs 2â‚Ź.

around

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 2

5

■ Hire a car You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

The most expected in town

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www.mnt.ee.

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

Useful Information No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0.

■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . .

The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . .

There is a block in the road .

Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

sale Fashion.

Accesories.

Household products.

27.12.2012–29.1.2013

Parking in Tallinn The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase.

Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64, with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Please read the signs carefully.

The first 15 minutes are free at: ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of journey, and the name of the taxi company.

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■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee.

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

■ It pays to be careful when choos<JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ ing a taxi, because some companies GJK% K8IKL DEK% ■ From the airport to the city cenhave much higher rates than others.

C@@M8C8@8 tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€ Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear AL?B<EK8C@ with the following taxi companies: window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The GvIEL DEK% Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink minimum fee must be displayed on the price Takso. These three taxi companies have a list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxiwaiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue. meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

LIIVALAIA 53 • OPEN Mon – Sat 9 – 21 • Sun 10 – 21 • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE

6

january events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

The favourite marathon

Baroque music in wintery Tallinn

If last year is any indication, the 42nd Tartu Marathon will be a truly huge event. Last year almost 8000 skiers took part, of which 6750 made it to the finish.

The 63 kilometre long trail takes you through the forests of Otepää and over the hills of Elva.

If you don’t think you can make it that far, then there is also a 31-kilometre race. The ski style is classic.

On February 16 a race for children will take place at the

Tartu Tähtvere Sport Park. Every participant gets a prize.

You can register for the marathon at: www.tartumaraton.ee.

The registration cost is between 30-80. You must register by February 16. ■

Tartu Marathon Start: Otepää Tehvandi Stadium February 17, 9.00. www.tartumaraton.ee

February 1 marks the start of the baroque music festival led by the legendary Andres Mustonen.

Mustonen is famous for his baroque music series with the ensemble Hortus Musicus. This year’s festival, MustonenFest brings many top name soloists to Tallinn. The opening concert on February 1 will include an international lineup, including Krzysztof Penderecki Credo.

One of the more interesting acts is the monastery choir Optina PutÕn from St Petersburg, who

will perform in Tallinn, Pärnu, and Jõhvi. Also noteworthy is the Belgian ensemble B`Rock, who will perform their 8 Seasons concert.

For the first time ever you will be able to see Hortus Musicus and Kremerata Balticat on the same stage on February 7 at the Estonian Concert Hall.

The festival will finish on February 9 with a gala concert at the Estonian Concert Hall.

Legends of the Times Come to the legendary Viru Hotel for a three-part classic cabaret that follows the fascinating 40-year history of the hotel. Tickets include a glass of sparkling wine as a welcome drink, a three-course a la carte dinner, inspired by the flavours of the Soviet era, entrance to the Café Amigo night club and of Photo: Rünno Lahesoo

course the fabulous cabaret!. Be sure to book, tickets are selling out quickly! www.piletilevi.ee ■

Hotel Viru Grand 40th Anniversary Cabaret Show Tour 1972-2012 Sokos Hotel Viru, Restoran Merineitsi Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 Until April 27, 2013

Tickets to the concerts are available from Piletilevi. Concerts will be held in the Estonia Concert Hall, House of the Blackheads, Tallinn Jaani Church, Tartu Vanemuise Concert Hall, Pärnu Elisabeth Church, and the Jõhvi Mihkli Church. ■

MustonenFest, February 1-9 in Tallinn Pärnu, Jõhvi, and Tartu. www.piletilevi.ee

6th Tallinn Applied Art Triennial “The Art of Collecting” Until March 3, 2013 The Tallinn Applied Art Triennial began in 1979. Since 1997, the triennial has been an international open forum for applied art and design. Its goal is to offer a new and unexpected perspective for examining contemporary applied art and design. This year the triennial will have participants from Europe, North America, Asia, and New Zealand. ■

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town G1 www.trtr.ee

Photo: Tarmo Haud

Tallinn Fire and Ice Festival January 4 – February 10 Every wonder what a bunch of Christmas trees tied together as a figure and set ablaze look like?

Well now is your chance. Old Christmas trees are collected at the beginning of January and participants get to work making them into different figures.

The burning of fir tree is an old Estonian folk custom. It was believed that the lighting of midwinter fires would guarantee the return of the sun in spring. ■

For more information and event dates: www.valgusfestival.ee

WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

The TV Tower is located 10 km from the city centre and 4 km from the Pirita Marina.

Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn HOW TO GET HERE:

You can take buses PARKING: 34A, 38, and 49 (stop The TV Tower "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises parking lot has 5 places for tourist are handicap buses and 60 accessible. places for cars.

Reservations: +372 58150020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23

www.troika.ee ȱ ȱŗśǰȱ ǰȱ ȱȊȱ ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ ȓ ǯ

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4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 21

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

8

sports

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

Get outside and enjoy winter in Tallinn.

both cross-country and downhill skiing. Enjoy 1, 2, 3, 5, 15 kilometre cross-country ski trails from the Nõmme Spordikeskus. Ski equipment rental is also available.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Did you know that there are beautiful forests, serene landscapes and untouched snow, all within a quick bus or train ride from Tallinn? Whether you like skiing, skating, tobogganing, snow tubing, or simply hiking, there is plenty to keep you busy this winter!

Nõmme Spordikeskus Külmallika 15a, Tallinn www.sportkeskus.ee (website in Estonian) Train schedules: www.elektriraudtee.ee

■ SKATING IN THE OLD TOWN Have you ever skated in the centre of a medieval town? Enjoy skating right in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju Street. Skates are available for rental. And you can warm up with a cup of hot cocoa beside the rink.

Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1

kilometres of tracks, suitable for both classic and skating styles; and snow tubes are provided for snow tubing.

Narva mnt 95, Tallinn www.winterpark.ee Buses 1A , 5, 8, 34A, 38 - stop “Lauluväljak”

ment rental is available from the Pirita Velodrome, as well as locker and shower rental.

Pirita Velodroom Rummu tee 3, Tallinn www.piritaspordikeskus.ee (website in Estonian)

■ PIRITA

If you have never been to this suburb of Tallinn then you’ve been missing out. This forest suburb is beautiful both in summer and in winter. It’s easily accessible by train, and you can take part in

The trails at Pirita are used for walking in summer and skiing in winter. In winter, the trails are lit until 22.00. There are 7.2 kilometres of trails all together. Ski equip-

■ NÕMME

The Nõmme Snow Park offers downhill skiing and snowboarding. Equipment can be rented and individual and group lessons can be organised for beginners, more advanced skiers and snowboarders alike.

Nõmme Snowpark (Nõmme Lumepark) Vana-Mustamäe tee 16, Tallinn www.nommelumepark.ee

Aegviidu is located 56 kilometres west of Tallinn.

By train: to Aegviidu www.elektriraudtee.ee By bus: Bus number 882 to Uuejärve www.tpilet.ee ■ TALLINN

Tartu

■ AEGVIIDU The Kõrvamaa Hiking and Ski Centre has trails of 1.5km; 3km; 5km; 19km; 24km and 65km in distance, as well as 1.2km of lit

■ TALLINN SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDS In winter the slopes of the Song Festival Grounds are packed with skiers, snowboarders, and toboggans. The Winter Park has a snow park with ten obstacles including flat boxes, a rainbow, A-frame, wave box, some pipes and more.

Skaters can enjoy a skating rink; cross-country skiers can enjoy 1.8

track, ideal for smaller children and practicing your technique.

The Centre offers lessons and ski equipment rental. The trails are suitable for classic and freestyle.

Sportland Kõrvemaa Matka ja Suusakeskus. Oja talu, Pillapalu küla, Anija vald. www.korvemaa.ee

Don’t know how to ski?

Don’t worry! You can take lessons. Prangli Travel offers crosscountry ski lesson packages complete with guide, travel, and ski rental. www.tallinndaytrip.com Photo: Kaimo Puniste

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

sport

9

Ice Fishing in Estonia

TEXT & PHOTOS: ROB BROOKES

Fishing is one of the most popular recreational pastimes, with keen anglers flocking to the sea, rivers and lakes worldwide eager to catch that elusive fish. Strategies to entice their prey range from the simple baited hook, to the lifelike artificial lure, to the artistic beauty of the handmade fly.

Winter, however, is not the time most people associate with fishing but Estonia provides fishermen and women of all backgrounds the opportunity to try their hand at ice fishing. For the visitor hoping to experience this, the country’s numerous lakes, rivers and the Baltic coastline provide ample venues for the would-be angler chasing such species as perch and the much sought after pike.

Within the city’s boundaries, Pirita River to the east and only a few minutes’ drive from the city centre provides anglers with easy access to the ice fishing grounds near the yacht club that hosted the sailing regatta at the 1980 Moscow Olympics. To the west lies Lake Harku, another popular destination for local anglers, which can be easily accessed by travelling to Väike-Õismäe by public transport to get you within a short walking distance to the lake.

Only a 45 minute drive from the capital lies the picturesque Paunküla, which makes it perfect for a half-day excursion. Lake Peipsi, which forms part of the nation’s eastern border with Russia and the fourth largest in Europe, is situated a short two and a

half to three hour drive from Tallinn with the promise of a bigger catch. Guided tours can also be arranged out of the university city of Tartu located just under 200km south-east of Tallinn and Pärnu about 130km south. For the experienced angler, Kuldkala, the largest ice fishing competition in the Baltics, will be held on beautiful Lake Viljandi 160kms from the capital on 16 February 2013 and promises to attract several thousand enthusiastic anglers chasing both fish and the prizes on offer.

Frequent buses from Tallinn can get you to these towns. For most people, fishing in Estonia requires a permit, but these are cheap.

■ DISTANCES FROM TALLINN: Paunküla - 45 minute drive Lake Peipsi - 2-3 hour Drive Tartu – around 200km Pärnu – 130km Viljandi – 160km

TALLINN Paunküla

Lake Peipsi Pärnu

Viljandi

Tartu

Ice Cricket

■ ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Kuldkala Fishing Contest http://kuldkala.ee/go/en/41 General fishing and permit information - www.fishinginfo.ee/go/ en/home

Cricket is one of the most popular sports in the world and is played in many different formats that require various skills and strategies. For many years, Tallinn has hosted one of the most interesting and enjoyable forms of the game, where talent is often replaced by luck and the influence of the conditions and venue.

This makes it a game for all – players and non-players, men and women.

Two events will be held in Tallinn this winter, 23 February and 2 March and played either on a local lake or at the Jeti Jäähall depending on the ice conditions.

Matches usually begin around 1000.

■ GUIDED TOURS: Tartu - www.visittartu.com/81222 Pärnu - www.tripbod.com/en/ experience/Gone-IceFishing-inEstonia-408.html

Ice Cricket information: Contact Rob Brookes at: brookesr30@hotmail.com www.facebook.com/icecricket www.youtube.com/ watch?v=ovRfOYyJK0Y

■ BUS TICKETS: www.tpilet.ee

10

shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

Januray News Employers and unions agree on minimum wage increase Next year, Estonia’s minimum wage may be set to 320 euros. The current minimum gross monthly salary is 290 euros. The Employers Confederation, representing 1,500 companies, decided to support the increase.

The agreement must now be sent to the Parliament for approval.

“A higher minimum wage will boost internal demand and support economic growth,” said Harri Taliga, chair of the Trade Union Confederation.

Housing price index up 8.4% According to a report from Statistics Estonia, mostly rising apartment prices in Tallinn influenced the housing price index. By the third quarter, apartment prices were up 8.4% compared to the same time last year. To compile the indices, Estonia was divided into three parts geographically: Tallinn; Tallinn outer suburbs, Tartu, Pärnu, and the rest of Estonia.

4G service for smartphones in January EMT, an Estonian mobile carrier has announced that it will open Estonia’s first 4G network in January. Currently the 4G network is only available to customers using modems and routers for mobile internet. The 4G network was installed in 2010. EMT will be using a feature called CS Fallback to allow the network to switch into 3G mode for voice calls.

Bride drought in Estonia Many of Estonia’s 227 municipalities have less 20-34 year old women than men, according to 2011 census data results. "The bride problem is by no means a new phenomenon in Estonia, although there has not been much talk of it lately.

But as shown by the census results, the situation is definitely serious,“ said Mihkel Servinski, chief analyst for Statistics Estonia. In total there are more women than men in Estonia.

New building at Tallinn University The new Astra complex at Tallinn University will be home to many departments, including a new library, the Institute of Informatics, Mathematics and Natural Sciences, and the Institute of Psychology. The building took six years to complete and cost 9.4 million euros to build. 83 percent of the funding came from the European Social Fund.

The new 10,500-square-meter complex has five floors, a three-story library, research laboratories, auditoriums, a student café, and there are plans for a greenhouse on the roof.

Registry of Stolen Cultural Valuables in English The online registry maintained by the National Heritage Board is now open to the public and has been translated into English. The database lists about 640 items of cultural value that have been stolen from churches and other institutions. Most entries include a picture.

Many of the stolen items are candleholders, Orthodox icons, and silverware.

The registry began in the 1970s and shows that major waves of robberies took place in the 1990s, 1999, and from 2006-07.

Rocca al Mare

Where to shop in Tallinn Tallinn’s shopping paradises are open year round and almost every day.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Shopping centres and big department stores are located all over Tallinn. You can find them near the port, in the city centre, as well as in the suburbs. Shopping centres and shops near the port cater to customers daily, except for some holidays. Many even have large supermarkets like Prisma, Selver, and Rimi, which sell everything from food, to electronics, to clothing. Near the port you will find many liquor stores, geared towards the frequent Finnish visitor, as alcohol is much less expensive in Estonia than in Scandinavia.

One of the nicest shopping centres has to be Rocca al Mare.

This massive centre was completed in 1998. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops. The shops are mainly clothing and beauty related, but you can also find sports apparel, children’s toys, home wares, health stores and chemists, as well as a large Prisma supermarket where you can buy just about anything! Choose from a variety of restaurants and fast food. Enjoy the discounts at the Stockmann outlet store.

Citycon, the same company that owns Rocca al Mare, also owns Kristiine. It is a more compact version of the former, and bit closer to the city centre. There is

a free bus service that runs from the A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn that which connects to both centres. The bus departs every half hour between 10.0017.00.

Looking for something a bit more central? You need not go further than the Viru Centre, located beside the Sokos Viru Hotel. Here you can visit Kaubamaja, a Tallinn department that has catered to residents for decades. Be sure to visit the recently renovated children’s department, and the massive shoe department.

The Kaubamaja Toidumaailm food store is located on the lowermost level of the Viru Centre. If you are looking for a quick takeaway lunch, or a few more groceries, this is your most convenient option. A long counter of hot and cold prepared foods is available to take away, and the selection changes daily.

Equally central is the Solaris Centre, where you can go to the cinema. All English language films are shown in English, with Estonian and Russian subtitles.

Solaris also has a good selection of restaurants. Try Vapiano, located on the second floor. Here you can have pizzas, pastas, and salads made to order. The pasta is made fresh in house. In summer, the top floor of the centre has an open patio. In winter, you can enjoy the view from inside

at Komeet. Komeet is known for their delicious cakes and sweets..

For some upscale shopping try the Foorum Centre on Narva maantee. The centre has small boutique clothing and shoe stores, including the delightfully scented Lush store.

Stockmann department store in the city centre, is about a tenminute walk from the Old Town.

Here you can find everything from electronics, to clothing, to kitchen wares. The lowermost level of the complex has an impressive grocery store, a liquor store, and takeaway food counter. ■

Shopping centres and department stores in Tallinn: ■ Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

■ Prisma, Free bus from the port.

■ Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.

■ Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.

■ Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Prisma, Free bus from the port.

■ Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Prisma, Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

■ Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Prisma, Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Selver, Buses 5, 18, 32 ,36, 57.

■ Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Rimi, Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Stockmann department store NEAR THE PORT: ■ Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.

SHOPPING CENTRES:

■ Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.

■ Solaris, Estonia pst 9.

■ SadaMarket, Kai 5.

■ Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

■ Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.

■ Foorum Narva mnt 5.

■ Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. Rimi

Large shopping centres are open daily 10-21 and the supermarkets 8-23.

sights

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

11

124

years of history Take a ride on one of Tallinn’s historic trams and see the city like a local.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

In its 124-year history, the Tallinn tram has lived through eight regimes, 15 name changes, and 25 owners. Tallinn’s first tram route was built in 1888. For thirty years, carriages pulled by horses ran along Tallinn’s major roads: Narva maantee, Tartu maantee, and Pärnu maantee. In 1915 the Kopli line was built, and used a combined steam and motor engine. When the First World War began in 1918, the Kop Kopli linee wa was as the only one that still till ran.

In 1925 electric tramamlines were built, and nd in 1939 the tramss carried 143 million passengers.

The Kopli line was finally changed to an electric one in 1951.

In 1975, there weree ce, 162 trams in service, rams and in 1988, the trams carried 109 million on passengers.

Recently, 15 new trams have been purchased from Spain, and will replace those on the number 4 line (Tondi-Ülemiste) by the end of 2014.

The tram is a great way to see the city of Tallinn, especially if you are on a budget. There are four routes that travel from Üle-

miste, Kadriorg, Tondi, and Kopli.

See colourful and historical neighbourhoods, and experience Tallinn like a local!

A new ticketing system As of January 1, 2013, Tallinn public transport will switch to an e-ticket and smartcard ticketing system. Registered Tallinn residents will be able to use public transport for free. You must purchase a smartcard and link it to your ID. The smartcard must be va dated at a the beginning of validated every jo journey.

For non-residents F an tourists, there and aare a few options.

Purchase a ticket for 1.60 from the driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And don’t forget to valid date your ticket. d You can also purchaYo se a smartcard. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferrable.

Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card.

The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.

What you’ll see along the way

LINE 1 KOPLI-KADRIORG Stop: Kadriorg Stop here for the Art Museum KUMU, Kadriorg Palace, which houses an art museum, or take a peaceful walk through Kadriorg Park.

Stop: Tallinna Ülikool The Tallinn University was established in 2005, after the merging of several other universities. Today it has 19 academic institutions and five colleges, about 10,000 students, 500 faculty members, and over 400 international students. The university has recently finished construction on a new building.

11 22 KOPLI

KALAMAJA

PELGURANNA

■ RATES FOR NON-REGISTERED SMARTCARD USERS E-ticket 1h 1 day 3 day 5 day 30 days

Price € 1.10 €3 €5 €6 € 23

Stop: Hobujaama This is the city centre stop, and where the tramlines intersect.

Stop here for the Viru and Forum Shopping Centres.

Stop: Linnahall This immense and crumbling concrete building was completed in 1980 for the Moscow Summer Olympic Sailing events held in Tallinn. Later used as a sport and cultural facility, today the building sits empty. In the summer you can take a helicopter to Helsinki from here with Copterline.

Stop: Balti jaam Stop here for the Train Station and market. This mainly Russian market sells everything from home grown veggies to cheap shoes, to World War Two memorabilia.

Open daily.

Stop: Telliskivi Just around the corner from the Train Station is the bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja. Visit some of the quirky cafes and restaurants in some of the refurbished warehouses. This area has many great examples of Estonian wooden architecture as well.

LINE 2 KOPLI-ÜLEMISTE Stop: Autobussijaam Stop here for the central Bus Station.

Stop: Keskturg Just before the bus station is the Tallinn Central Market. Try some Estonian smoked meats or fish, or simply take a walk around to get feel for this electic market.

Stop: Ülemiste This is the last stop on the line, but on the way out there, the tram passes through a part of Lasnamäe district. These concrete block apartment buildings were built throughout the 1970s. The area is home to a largely Russian population.

LINE 3 TONDI-KADRIORG & LINE 4 TONDI-ÜLEMISTE

PORT A, B terminals D terminal

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION

at the end of the tramline is home to the Estonian Military Academy, but once housed Tallinn Technical University.

VIRU OLD TOWN

1 3 1

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VABADUSE VÄLJAK

SIKUPILLI VEERENNI BUS

STATION

2 4 ÜLEMISTE AIRPORT

3 44 TONDI

Stop: Kopli Kopli once had the largest Lutheran Baltic German cemetery, but it was flattened in the 1950s to make way for the Soviet military stations. Today, the old cemetery is a public park. The building

Stop: Vabaduse väljak Freedom Square was rebuilt in 2008, and the Victory Column, erected in 2009, commemorates the Estonian War of Independence.

Stop: Kosmos The Kosmos cinema was built in 1964, and is now protected by the National Heritage Fund. It is the biggest cinema in Estonia, with 737 seats.

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restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

Legend: ■ € - Under 10€ ■ €€ - 11-25€ ■ €€€ - 25€ + (cost of 2 course meal per person)

At the Georgian table Georgian Tavern Tbilisi is a new addition to the Old Town restaurant scene.

georgian TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you’ve wandered through Tallinn, you’ve probably noticed quite a few Georgian restaurants.

Georgian Tavern Tbilisi is a favourite. A meal at this restaurant is more like a family meal at home.

The dishes are prepared fresh to order, so sit back and enjoy a bottle of Georgian wine while you wait.

It’s a myth that all Georgian wines are sweet; in fact Georgians prefer dry wines. For dry whites, stick to the tsinandali grape variety; and for a dry red, try mukuzani or the full-bodied saperavi. There are descriptions beside each of the wines on the list, should you need a bit of guidance! If you are with a group, or even as a pair, choose a few dishes to share. While the portions may appear small, they are filling. The cheese hachapuri (melted cheese in flatbread) are a good start. A favourite are the hin-

kali (meat dumplings), which you pick up by the top and eat from the bottom, trying not the spill the liquid inside. The pork sashlik (grilled meat skewers) is cooked well and served with a tomato dressing; but the lamb chops have to be this writer’s favourite! ■

The Kebab King Enjoy vegetarian cooking at Papa Joe’s.

Location Georgian Tavern Tbilisi Rüütli 18, Tallinn Old Town I1 www.tbilisi.ee Facebook: Georgian Tavern Tbilisi

middle eastern TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: JOSEPH ABOU-RAAD

The Sadama Market at the Port of Tallinn seems to have struggled over the last few years, but since its remodelling and reopening this year, some great little shops have opened inside. Papa Joe’s is one of them.

This might seem an unlikely location for a falafel takeaway, a bit of a walk from the Old Town, but if you are craving a bit of spice and are vegetarian, it’s worth the walk.

Better still, if arriving by ship, then why not stop in for snack on your way into town.

The menu is small. Choose between a falafel pita, falafel wrap, falafel salad, or hummus and pita.

You can also buy hummus, baba ghanoush, and dolmas to take away. The falafels are prepared while you wait, and the friendly staff is always chatty and eager to tell you more about the food. The only things that are missing are a few tables, as at the moment, it’s standing room only. ■

Location Papa Joe Sadama Market (Sadama Turg) Sadama 25-4, Tallinn A2 (just inside the main entrance) www.kebabking.ee Facebook: Papa Joe

WELL SEASONED Salt restaurant in Tallinn could just be one of the city’s best-kept culinary secrets.

bistro TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Opened this past summer, Salt is quickly becoming a favourite. This cosy 26-seat restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, and bookings are a must.

The dinner menu changes weekly, and lunch specials are offered daily. Classic French bistro cooking, with the odd fusion dish tossed in inspires the menu.

If you want to be close to the culinary action, you can sit right next to the open kitchen, and watch the chef hard at work. Salt prides themselves on being able to source as many ingredients as possible, locally.

Like most restaurants seem to be doing these days in Tallinn, Salt advertises their menu on their

Facebook page (in both English and Estonian). Staple favourites reappear, like the whitefish tartar, and variations of foie gras. As a main, we tried duck confit, served with red cabbage and parsnips, as well as the pikeperch with fennel, lemongrass, and pumpkin cream.

And be sure to leave room for dessert; the tarte tatin was divine!

■

Location Salt Restoran Vase 14, Tallinn B3 www.saltrestoran.ee

Söökla estonian Go back in time at this Soviet era inspired diner, but with much better food! Daily specials are posted on their Facebook page everyday, and include favourite comfort foods like pea soup, dumplings (pelmeenid), and macaroni with mincemeat.

This diner/cafeteria is selfserve. Line up with your tray for warm foods and cold salads.

Bread, juices and other drinks, as well as dessert are portioned. And

after you’ve eaten, don’t forget to bus your plates. A complete lunch, drink, main and dessert should cost you no more than 5!

Take the Tondi trams 3 or 4 to the end of the line, and walk around the building from the left hand side to the Söökla entrance. ■

Location Söökla Pärnu mnt 142, Tallinn www.söökla.ee

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

13

TOP ESTONIAN CUISINE The 50 best restaurants in Estonia are chosen every year.

Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants (For the complete list visit: www.eestimaitsed.com) Alexander, Pädaste Manor, Muhu Island Tchaikovsky, Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town OKO, Punase laterna 1, Kaberneeme Port, Jõelähtme, Harjumaa Chedi, Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town Põhjaka, Mäeküla, Paide vald, Järvamaa

Alexander

Leib, Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town Moon, Võrgu 3, Tallinn Neh, Lootsi 4, Tallinn

Bordoo, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, Tallinn Old Town Ribe, Vene 7, Tallinn Old Town

■ Best in Tartu

■ Best in Pärnu

Tartu’s best restaurant changes every year. It doesn’t get more Italian than La Dolce Vita. A favourite of this student town, this pizzeria has already been open for ten years.

In Pärnu the best restaurant is actually a café, popular among tourists and locals alike. Supelsaksad is just “so Pärnu,” no matter what the time of year.

TEXT: MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS: EESTI MAITSED/ LAURI LAAN

■ Best Rural The Pädaste Manor Hotel restaurant Alexander, located on the island of Muhu has made it onto the list for the third year in a row, as the country’s best. You don’t have to drive to Muhu however; the dishes inspired by the cuisine of the Nordic Islands are available to taste in Tallinn as well.

Visit Neh, number eight on the list, located near the port.

Local is best Aivar Hanson has been organising the 50 Best Restaurants list for five years. The Baltic Guide asked him what criteria he uses to rate them, and how the winners have changed over time.

■ Best in Tallinn Tchaikovsky is located inside the stylish Telegraaf Hotel in the Old Town. This Russian restaurant has been steadily climbing the list over the past few years. And not surprising, it made it to second place this year.

Leib How do you choose?

“The restaurants are chosen by other restaurant professionals.

A maximum of three people can go to rate a restaurant. Other restaurant owners, chefs, and servers rate restaurants. Everyone can name seven restaurants, and they can’t choose their own restaurant, obviously. There are about 200 restaurant reviewers in total, and are usually employees of previously chosen top restaurants.”

■ The Surprise The Tallinn restaurant Leib rose very quickly on the list this year.

This locally focused restaurant, with a great wine list and knowledgeable staff is a Tallinn favourite.

What changes have occurred over the past five years?

It was possible to advertise your restaurant before. Now they are more experienced and opinionated, such that the “more intelligent” are not listened to anymore.

La Dolce VIta

Tchaikovsky

A good restaurant has a full dining room. Of the new restaurants, you can get a clear picture already within the first week of opening, if they will succeed or not.

Old fine dining restaurants are not in style anymore and they have lost clients. People want to eat out, but at the same time have it be affordable.

How does the future seem?

Copying others does not work.

Estonian restaurants are changing to be more local, but at the same time still international. A good example is Eivere Manor, which was started by a Finn but is now run by a Japanese person.

The future belongs to those smaller establishments that focus on local traditions.

Good restaurants use local ingredients, and some have even made their own gardens and paid people to pick berries and mushrooms. They make their own bread, and bottled water is disappearing from the menus. ■

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beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

e v o L

your nails

Just because the holiday season is over, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t treat yourself to a manicure.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

On a chilly winter’s day, the Nail Spa in Tallinn is bustling with hands and feet, ready to be pampered. Enjoy a tea or coffee while you relax, or a chat with your neighbour. The Nail Spa is often filled with chatty regulars.

The Nail Spa uses both OPI and ProNail products. ProNail is well-trusted Belgian brand, and offers both classic and gel polishes. While the classic manicure does take a bit longer, you can enjoy a hand soak, exfoliation, and

massage: all things that are well deserved after the holidays. And then choose from a selection of classic and modern colours for your polish.

Esti Ehatamm, manager at the Nail Spa explained, “we even offer manicures and pedicures for men.

ProNails has four products designed especially for men for moisturising, filing, cuticle care, and to prevent biting.

ProNail uses natural ingredients and extracts in their Hand Care line of soaps, scrubs, creams, and cuticle oils. The Olive

Oil Hand Cream is particularly soothing for dry skin in winter.

The Vitamina Nourishing Cuticle Oil has a mild almond scent, and is recommended for daily use.

The friendly and professional service at Nail Spa is just part of the reason clients keep coming back. Walk-ins are welcome, but bookings are always advised.

■

Location Nail Spa Narva mnt 9, Tallinn B3 www.nailspa.ee

Straightening LINES Tallinn’s top non-surgical beauty clinic has been Medemis for seven years in a row.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS MEDEMIS

The clinic is located in the city centre, near the Viru Centre. They offer Botox, along with many other anti-aging procedures.

We tried the facial chemical peel and meso therapy. The centre’s director Jevgenia Makarova, who told us that Medemis is popular among tourists, performed the procedure. The pur-

Medemis Beauty Clinic offers Botox and many other anti-aging procedures.

pose of the peel is to remove dead layers of skin cells, but at the same time promoting healthy ones. A lactic acid based cream is put on the skin and is left for 20 minutes under cellophane. The procedure was not painful or uncomfortable, all that was felt was a mild warming sensation.

For the meso therapy, a small injection of vitamins and minerals is made into the central layer of the skin. On the more sensitive areas of the skin you may feel

a light pinching sensation, but in general this was a relatively tolerable procedure that leaves your skin fresh and moisturised. For the best results, Jevgenia Makarova suggested regular visits, but even on the first try, you could see the results.

A free consultation is provided by a specialist who suggests what procedures are right for you. But it is ultimately up to the client what procedures they want. We were offered Botox injections, but

we would not have been able to try the meso therapy at the same time.

The service at Medemis is professional and friendly. The procedures are reasonably priced, even by Estonian standards. For example, the facial peel and meso, which lasted one hour cost about 150. ■

Location Medemis, Narva mnt. 7. Tallinn B3.

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

15

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

■ Museums

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Kadriorg Palace was built by Tsar Peter I for his empress Catherine.

A winter oasis Kadriorg Park is Tallinn’s cultural and outdoor oasis, even in winter.

■ Restaurants & Cafés: Villa Thai. Vilmsi 6. Asian cuisine.

Restoran & Spagheteria Kadriorg, Weizenbergi 18. Italian cuisine.

Cantina Carramba, A. Weizenbergi 20B. Authentic Mexican cuisine.

Kumu. Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1. Modern Estonian cuisine and a pleasant café.

Miia Milla Manda, Koidula 21 C. Children’s museum café for the whole family.

Kadriorg, Poska 45. A café located at the corner of the park.

PI

RI

TA TE E

Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. Peter however, could not build modestly, otherwise what would his wife Catherine have thought, who would later become empress. With that in mind, came Museums and other the building of the gorgeous imperial sumpoints of interest: mer home. During the construction of the house, Peter the Great lived in their winter  Kumu, Estonian Art Museum  Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), Western house, which still stands today at the park’s European and Russian art from the 16th–20th edge and houses a museum. centuries.

Architect Niccolo Michetti planned the  Mikkel Museum (Mikkeli muuseum), palace and the park, which was made to Collection of Johannes Mikkel: the Art of Western resemble the Italian palaces of the time. Europe, Russia, and China from the 16th-20th centuries.

Italian design can still be seen in the park,  A. H. Tamsaare Museum (A. H. Tamsaare as well as in certain places inside the castle, muuseum), Museum inside the house of the well despite later renovations. known writer.

Kadriorg Palace houses the foreign art  Eduard Vilde Museum (Eduard Vilde muu collection of the Estonian Art Museum. seum), Museum of the well known writer.

There is no better place to admire 16th  Peter I House Museum (Peeter Suure majamuuseum), Where Peter I lived during the concentury art and furniture. At the Kadriorg struction of his summer home.

Art Museum you get a true sense of the  Maarjamäe Castle (Maarjamäe loss), building's history. The park has really deve- Estonian History Museum (towards loped over the past few years, and there is Pirita)  even a Japanese garden. In winter, it’s just  Russalka Monument, Memorial for the sinking of the a short walk to the Song Festival Grounds Russian warship Russalka or for tobogganing.

“Mermaid.”

K a d r i o rg i s  Song Festival Grounds much more than a (Lauluväljak), park and a palace.  Kadriorg Park, especially the "Luigetiik" or Visit the KUMU Swan Pond.

Art Museum. Along with Estonian art, you can enjoy the restaurant and café located inside.  There are not many places to eat in Kadriorg, but their quality surpasses their  quantity. There is so A MNT NARV much to see in Kadriorg. In the middle of the  park, near the LuigeMNT NARVA  tiik (swan A. Weizenbergi zenbergi er Pirita A. W L .

K eize o pond), idula nbe rgi   J. K is the 4 Keski  öle Kadriorg kaupunki ri children’s  museum Miia-MillaManda. ■  äe

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Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

■ Museums

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Riia 15b, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Jaani 16, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18 http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Old Observatory (Tähetorn) Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu)

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum) Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

■ Art Museums &

Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn www.okupatsioon.ee muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00

■ Sm Draak

Pikk 18, T www.ea Mo-Fr 11

Hobus

Hobusep www.ea We-Mo 1

Kunsti

Pikk 34, T www.alle Mo-Fr 10 Tallinna Vabadus www.ku We-Su 1

16

n shares n e B k r a M lish ex-pat g n E , evening, h r t u n o o y m d y n r e e p Ev here to s w n o s t h g to a gig. u g in o g his tho r o , g g, dancin be it drinkin

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Photo: Kaur Ilves

: o t n e List

Elephants from Neptune How do you get through January? With some good ol' rock and roll.

Some people say that Elephants from Neptune are from the sands of the planet Neptune, others say that they are in fact merely mortals from Estonia. Whatever the truth, one fact remains: they certainly kick ass.

While we may all like to sit in wonder at something truly imaginative, or lose ourselves in a sonic sound-scape, there remains a part of every human who just wants to get down to some dirty, groovy rock and roll. And it's for these times that the band’s eponymous début is made. With songs tit-

Photo: Rene Altrov

les such as Exploding Love and Snake Eyes, you know what you're going to get: blistering bluesy bass lines, guitars ramped up to 11 and the feral growl that leads us back to where rock music should be.

Elephants from Neptune offer us something entrenched in that American rock sound, but stripped of its posturing and intellectualism. It's hard not to like something that pays homage to its roots with so little pretension.

It isn't sophisticated, but it is certainly damn good fun.

■

TALLINN: live and alive With a number of mid to small-sized venues around the city, Tallinn can cater for all your live music tastes.

It's always the big concerts and the big venues that grab the headlines. With posters all round town on every lamppost and dustbin, it's hardly a surprise that some of Tallinn's small to mid-sized venues get lost in publicity. Thankfully, there is plenty out there to keep any live music fan entertained.

Von Krahl has recently celebrated its 20th anniversary as Tallinn's cultural heart and live music continues to play an important role in its make up.

Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays often pay host to some of the more arty and experimental artists from home and abroad.

Von Krahl also hosts a number of club nights for the indie bopper or grime wannabe.

Sinilind (mentioned elsewhere on these pages) is also starting to make a name for itself as a venue. From indie rock to hip-hop, there's plenty going on here to keep you entertained.

Tallinn seems to have a number of venues that appeal to heavily tattooed young men with a preference for black t-shirts. Rock club Tapper with its black walls, cheap beer and sticky floors is a true live music venue which plays host to a number of local and international metal acts.

Slightly bigger but in the same vain is Rock Café. Seem-

ingly more international in outlook, they have a number of events from metal to hip-hop to folk-rock that should leave the live music fan salivating. It also pays host to R2's monthly live concerts, a great place to see some of the best Estonian talent while paying a visit.

As for the smaller venues, Woodstock is a delightful little cave that pays host to a number of bands who would have scared the audience at its 1960's namesake while Kodu often has some fine low-fi indie bands and guitar strummers.

Away from rock music, Tallinn also has plenty of places to sample some jazz. A regular Jazz club is held at Teatre NO99 on Fridays featuring talent from across the content while Clazz throws up a heady mixture of live jazz, samba, funk and more most nights of the week.

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town H1 www.vonkrahl.ee Sinilind Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3 www.facebook.com/KohvikSinilind/ Rockclub Tapper Pärnu maantee 158, Tallinn C2 www.tapper.ee RockCafe Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn B3 www.rockcafe.ee Woodstock Tatari 6, Tallinn B2 woodstock.ee Kodu Vaimu 1, Tallinn A2 www.kodubaar.ee Teatre 99 Sakala 3, Tallinn B2 www.no99.ee Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.clazz.ee/

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N J AONVUE AMRBYE R2 021031 2

17

: t a g n i c Go dan Club Hollywood In the past, Suur-Karja was the street that the country folk used to transport their livestock from the pasture to a spring where they could drink. It seems apt that today it’s the street where Tallinn's finest come to down their shots and dance the night away.

Located at its epicentre is Club Hollywood, possibly the most raucous venue in town. At weekends a full house is almost guaranteed along with an assort-

ment of fun-seeking tourists and party-going locals.

The club itself, with its vast dance-floor, raised platforms, and scantily-clad go-go girls, has managed to put together a number of regular club nights that should keep everyone happy, from drum n' bass to pop to house and to R'n'B, Hollywood caters for all manner of tastes.

Special mention should be made for the weekly Ladies Night.

Every Friday the girls are given

free entry for a night of Hip Hop, Reggae, R'n'B, Latin and pop tunes spun by the club’s DJ's. While not the most original marketing ploy, it certainly seems to work and a large group can be seen outside the door, waiting in the cold for another evening of fun. ■

Location Club Hollywood Vana-posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

: t a g n i k n i r d Go

Sinilind

Sinilind's cool, urban atmosphere in a world of Soviet-kitsch will warm up any January visitor to Tallinn.

While mention of Estonia's Soviet past may create an awkward silence when brought up in conversation, there's no doubt that much of its furniture has taken on something of a renaissance among Estonia's trendy cars and cafés.

Sinilind is a prime example.

When you enter you are taken aback by the Soviet-kitsch on offer; from the wooden tables, retro armchairs and seats that are liable to buckle under the weight of a 21st century man, it's all there.

However, to call Sinilind merely a monument to past times is unfair: it's just a part of this club/ café’s appeal. During the day it

Photo: Jakke Farra

Sports

e d i u G Baltic mends: recom

acts as a simple café with an impressive beer list and some good, inexpensive food, but at night the place changes. It's, to borrow a sci-fi term from the BBC's Doctor Who, tardis-like layout reveals a dance floor that a casual visitor could easily ignore, and a host of events such as regular club nights, gigs, and even a cinema night that explains why Sinilind has become the Tallinn hipsters bar of choice. ■

Location Kohvik Sinilind Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3 www.facebook.com/KohvikSinilind

Nightclubs

Clayhills

Arena 3

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

Drink Baar

BonBon

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

Hell Hunt

CatHouse

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Mad Murphy’s

Club Baila

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Nimeta Baar

Club Hollywood

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live Music

Club Privé

Café Amigo

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Club Studio

Chicago 1933

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Panoraam

Clazz

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Parlament

Guitar Hunt

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Partei

Rock Café

Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Plub

Von Krahl

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Town H1

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Tallinn Nightlife Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

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18

history

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

z A Brief History of Estonia

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia.

11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed.

1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia.

1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success.

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order.

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).

1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.

1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague.

The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000.

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.

1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility.

Political power remains in the hands of the nobility.

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government.

1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces.

1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy.

Many small political parties are formed.

1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament.

Päts rules by decree.

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation.

1939 The German-Soviet Non-Aggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia.

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union.

1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia.

Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight.

1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000.

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian.

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.

1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.

1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow.

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

Underground TALLINN Kiek in de Kök & the Bastion Tunnels TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Whatever is underground is considered mysterious and inspires curiosity. There are numerous legends about medieval passages under Tallinn’s Old Town.

In 2010 part of the underground passages were renovated and opened to the public. The passages are equipped with excellent lighting and ventilation systems; they are dry and clean. The passages are accessible from the most beloved fortification tower in Tallinn – Kiek in de Kök, which is a part of the Tallinn City Museum.

The passages are open to the public, however only as part of a tour with an experienced guide.

They will tell you the history of Tallinn through the centuries in a most fascinating way. Excursions start with a funny and sarcastic cartoon about the history of Estonia and Tallinn. Once you get to the end you have lost all sense of direction and time, not the least because the tour is rounded off by a futuristic and entertaining train ride, along with video and sound effects that take you into the year 2219. Only a few meters away from the passages, on the other side of the wall, the vibrant life of contemporary Tallinn awaits.

The passages are not in fact all underground. Rather you walk along the inner wall of the fortifications or bastions. Their history goes back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when Estonia was under Swedish rule and protected itself against other

intruders. Their main enemy was Russia.

The first passages date back to the 1630s when earth was moved from Tõnismägi Hill to the Dome Hill or Toompea. The Swedish and Ingermanland Bastion, along with some others were completed towards the end of the same century. Soon after Sweden lost Estonia to Russia, the bastions lost their strategic importance. In reality, they have never been used, neither for military, nor for other operations.

The purpose of the bastions was to enable firing upon

The passages are not in fact all underground.

The café on the top floor of the tower offers a beautiful view over the Old Town.

tors. In the future there might be more.

For centuries the passages were used as storerooms. Some were destroyed, others turned into parks.

attacking enemies on two flanks, with guns lined up on top of the bastions.

The hidden passages were constructed inside the bastions in order to shelter the men, ammunition and supplies, but especially to hide their relocation from the enemy. The passages also served as observation posts to spy on enemy activities.

The tunnels for the passages were made of limestone 1.5 metres wide and 2.5-3 metres high. The walls were up to four meters thick.

The ceilings of the passages were provided with ventilation holes.

Today 470 metres are open to visi-

In the late 1930s the passages were used as air-raid shelters.

During the Soviet occupation they were provided with separate electricity and ventilation sys-

Kiek in de Kök is part of the Tallinn City Museum.

tems, running water, telephone communications, toilets and bedrooms. They were meant to offer shelter to high rank party officials in case of war. By the late 1970s some passages were cleaned from waste. They were used as storage for museums and in the 1990s as shelter for the homeless.

Once you are back on the ground, why not take a look at Tallinn from the top floor café at the Kiek in de Kök. From there you have a magnificent view of Tallinn’s upper town, lower town and the harbour. Seeing all this beauty, it is understandable why foreign powers throughout the centuries have taken a liking to Estonia and Tallinn! ■

Location The tunnels for the passages were made of limestone.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn, B1 www.linnamuuseum.ee

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

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Must-see sights of Tallinn Tallinn with a view The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility.

The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town can be seen from viewing platforms at Toompea. The best view of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda).

Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.

This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Toompea Castle species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros.

Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become

Town Hall Square ■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ 3 Kiriku Platform The platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view

■ 4 Best of both worlds Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town.

■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower.

The Toompea Tower (15th century) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!

The snow-covered Song Festival Grounds ■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation.

The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here.

■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens.

4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Town Hall Pharmacy

■ 1 Kohtu Platform The Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn.

■ 2 Patkul Platform The Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city centre, and to the Tallinn railway station.

Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn

of splendid and romantic sunsets.

The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other platforms.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

Patarei Prison

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage.

1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital.

In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

M O B E R 2 0 1 21

20

useful information

TALLINN

20

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 3

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

■ Post Office

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222.

■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

Foorum, Narva mnt 5.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.

Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.

Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.

SadaMarket, Kai 5.

How to make a phone call ■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country: + (country code)(phone number)

WIFI Networks There are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee.

Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service provider.

Event Tickets Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is available in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Mustikas keskus, A. H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

■ Currency Exchange How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard.

American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country.

Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

J A N U R AY 2013 T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™

Kuva: Toomas Volmer

-

Map of Old Town is on the next page.

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21

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Nõmme tee C1 Nunne A1 Odra C3 Õilme C2 Olevimägi A2 Oleviste A2 Oru A5 Paadi A3 Pae C5 Pagari A2 Paldiski mnt B1 Pallasti C4 Pärna B3 Pärnu mnt B2 Peterburi tee C4 Piiskopi B1 Pikk jalg B2 Pirita tee A5 Planeedi C1 Põhja puiestee A2 Poska B4 Pronksi B3 Pühavaimu B2 Puhke C2 Rahukohtu B1 Rannamäe tee A1 Rannamäe tee A2 Rataskaevu B2 Raua B3 Rävala pst B2 Ravi C2 Roheline Aas B4 Rohu B1 Roopa B1 Roosikrantsi B2 Rumbi A2 Rüütli B2 Sadama A2 Sakala B2 Salme A1 Saturni C1 Sauna B2 Sikupilli C4 Soo A1 Spordi C1 Süda C2 Sügise B1 Suur-Ameerika C1 Suur-Karja B2 Suur-Kloostri A2 Suur-Laagri A1 Suur-Sõjamäe C5 Suurtüki A2 Tare C2 Tartu mnt B3 Tatari B2 Tehnika B1 Telliskivi A1 Terase B3 Tina B3 Tobiase B3 Tolli A2 Tõllu A1 Tõnismägi C2 Toom-Kooli B1 Toom-Kuninga C1 Toom-Rüütli B1 Toompea B1 Toompuiestee B1 Tööstuse A1 Tormi A4 Tuha C5 Türnpu B4 Turu B3 Tuukri A3 Tuulemäe C5 Tuvi C1 Ülemiste C4 Uue Maailma C1 Uus A2 Vabriku A1 Väike-Ameerika C1 Väike-Karja B2 Vaikne C2 Vaimu A2 Valge B5 Valgevase A1 Vana-kala maja A1 Vana-Lõuna C2 Vana-Viru B2 Vase B3 Veerenni C2 Veetorni C1 Vene B2 Vesivärava B4 Videviku C1 Villardi B1 Vilmsi B3 Virmalise C1 Virmalise C1 Viru B2 Võistluse C3 Volta A1 Weizenbergi A4 Wiedemanni B4 Wismari B1

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