The Baltic Guide ENG January 2015

J A N U A R Y 2 0 15

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Winter in Estonia Nightlife & Entertainment – An Alliterative Night Out on the Town

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

Let the winter fun begin! reading this, it must mean you are a snow lover as well.

January is a quiet month in Tallinn, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. If you arrive near the beginning of the month, you can still catch the Christmas market in Town Hall Square. There are also plenty of winter activities to take part in, including skating and cross country skiing, all within Tallinn. Feel like staying indoors? Relax at a spa, or enjoy some of the fine cuisine Tallinn has to offer. All this and more you will find in these pages.

Happy travels!

Contents

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

restaurants

January Highlights

8 restaurants: Teletorn Brasserie & Tele Restaurant Frenchy EHE Maitse Gurmee Vinoteek Hotokas Pööbel Caffeine Ristikheina Kohvik Ris

01 FUNK AND DISCO HITS The Earth, Wind & Fire Experience will perform on January 14 at the Tallinn’s Factory Club. You can expect hot disco and funk hits of the 70s and 80s, performed by an 11-member band.

02 A TRADITIONAL SKI MARATHON Since 1960, the annual Tartu Ski Marathon has been bringing close to 10,000 skiers to the trails.

The Marathon is will take place on February 15 in Otepää. Not a skier? Don’t worry; there is plenty of action for the spectator too.

shopping

DocPoint Tallinn brings fascinating documentary films from around the globe to the city’s cinemas from January 29 to February 2. The festival focuses on films that explore society and social criticism. The festival is organised in collaboration with Helsinki DocPoint.

04 VILJANDI FISH FESTIVAL Viljandi’s largest winter party is Kalafest, which takes place from February 13-15 around Viljandi Lake. The programme includes concerts, a fair, and the popular Kuldkala fishing competition.

05 MAMMOTHS ON ICE Ice Age Live! will be performed on ice at the Saku Suurhall from January 16-18. Familiar characters of the popular children’s movie will be performing.

Pick up your free copy at:

JANUARY 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Maarja-Liisa Mahla Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

10 entertainment 12-13 shopping 14 family fun 15 beauty 16 january events 17 walking tour 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst.

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T

he trick to surviving the Estonian winter is to stay active. This is what was told to me when I first moved to Tallinn three years ago. So what did I do? I went out, bought myself a pair of cross-country skis and hit the trails. Unfortunately, last winter had so little snow that the annual Tartu Marathon had to be cancelled. I also heard from a friend who had taken part in another ski marathon, that it had become so mild during the race that the snow was melting under their feet. To complete the race, they had to remove their skis and start running!

Everyone has their fingers crossed for a beautiful white winter season, well almost everyone. There are those who head to warmer climates, but if you are

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

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RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

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Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill FÜrsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjÜvägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

The ďŹ rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Ă–ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

KĂśket Ăśppet frĂĽn kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vün/1st oor, 100m frün A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

• Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mßndi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

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sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

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Photo: EAS

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1.

Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1.

Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Photo: Lembit Michelson

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square.

Tallinn Old Town H1.

Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants.

Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea.

Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

Kiek in de kök

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian.

English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights.

One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee

sightseeing

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Kadriorg

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s?

The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service.

The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century.

The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015

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“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table!

We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…”

Jane, 36; London

VAPIANO FOORUM Hobujaama 10, Tallinn. Near the harbour.

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8

restaurants

■ EHE Maitse Gurmee Vinoteek While this wine bar has already been open for some time, their concept has changed slightly to widen the selection of Italian dishes. This is a great place to come for an aperitif, or aperitivo, as the Italians say.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

■ Hotokas

■ Pööbel

The gourmet burger trend really took off this past year in Estonia, so why not add a gourmet hotdog place to mix. Try a selection of hot dogs, from classic to nacho dog, chilli dog to pizza dog. Sides include French fries or nachos.

Pööbel is located inside of an old wooden house, just behind the Old Town. The interior has been renovated tastefully and the result is a nice cosy pub in which to spend a cold winter’s night. Service can be a little slow, especially during peak business hours, but if you’re not in a rush, it’s worth the wait. The food is good and there is an excellent selection of beers, both on tap and in bottles.

Toompuiestee 16, Tallinn B1.

Mündi 3, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Toompuiestee 16, Tallinn B1.

A chef at great heights Priit Toomits, head chef at Tallinn’s TV Tower, is one of Estonia’s most well known chefs. His kitchen sits at a height of 175 metres.

gourmet TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Priit Toomits has worked at the restaurant since its opening. The menu brings together his previous experience with different cuisines and local Estonian ingredients. “Ideas come from all over the internet, from other restaurant menus”, explains Toomits.

But new creations can be made in Estonia. “In Saaremaa, almost every other wild plant is edible”.

“Now, since export to Russia has stopped, we have to be as patriotic as possible. I am more than happy to support local farming”.

A part of their cooperative partners are small producers who try to bring in produce regularly. They use local game. “The moose is definitely local”, confirms Toomits.

The chef worries however: “If economic development continues as it is, then in ten years we will serve imported food and speak English in the kitchen. Estonian schools fail to teach adequate skills in this area”.

Priit Toomits certainly agrees that cooking should be introduced to the school curriculum.

While we spoke, Toomits offered a taste of his winter menu,

which included salted herring fillet served with beetroot cream, pickled beetroot and cucumber, quail egg, mayo and potato. “In winter, we must eat Estonian pork”, he says. The main course was a stewed pork shoulder with stewed cabbage with juniper, potato-cauliflower puree and demi glace.

The three course menu costs 30 without drinks, and 50 with drinks.

■

Location Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn Buses: 34A, 38, and 49, as well as City Tour and City Sightseeing buses.

The interior of the Teletorn restaurant is sleek and modern.

Priit Toomits

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

9

■ Caffeine

■ Ristikheina Kohvik

There is always room for one more café, especially if it serves good coffee. The café is situated on Harju, right in the heart of the Old Town, so you can sit by the big windows and have an excellent seat for people watching.

Opened at the end of last year, this neighbourhood café has become quite popular among locals. The menu includes breakfast until 12.00 on weekdays and 14.00 on weekends, as well as an excellent selection of dips and salads for lunch. Main courses offer a nice variety of fish dishes.

Harju 3, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Ristiku 57, Tallinn

Rabbit terrine tartine

Going French Frenchy fills the bellies of Tallinn’s French food lovers.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Telliskivi, Tallinn’s creative hotspot, is continuously growing and expanding with new shops and restaurants. Frenchy is one of the latest additions to the area.

Frenchy specialises in French cuisine, a cuisine that has been seriously lacking in Tallinn. It is open for both lunch and dinner, though unfortunately not for breakfast, yet. Enjoy a late morning coffee if you arrive for 11.00, which is when they open. At this time, they are also just pulling fresh croissants from the oven, which have come straight from France.

In fact, many of their products, including meat, comes straight from France. In December they were advertising fresh Fines de Claire oysters, a real treat here in Tallinn.

Upon my visit I decided to try some classic French dishes. To start, the rabbit terrine tartine (6.50) was a pleasant combination of rabbit terrine on freshly toasted bread and served with salad. I tried the grilled sirloin to really put the menu to the test.

Good beef is something difficult to find in Tallinn, but the grilled sirloin did not disappoint. It was served with maître d’hôtel butter and matchstick potatoes. This was truly gourmet comfort food for a cold winter’s night. Ile flottant is the house dessert, poached meringue in crème anglaise.

Service is friendly at Frenchy.

The menu is short, consisting of only a few dishes per course, but this is not a bad thing; for what they do, they do well. The drink list is also short but offers some speciality beers and some exclusive bottles of wine. Service is friendly, and gives you a great chance to practice your French. ■

Location Frenchy Telliskivi Loomelinnak Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn A1.

Freshly baked pastries available every morning starting from 11.00.

10

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

Photo: Baila

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock Café

Baila is a spot for happy people who just want to shake their thing.

Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Photo: The Dubliner

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Our next stop in what was a pubcrawl less travelled was Bayer & Böhmen. This German bierkeller is effectively in the basement of The Dubliner. The place feels German to anyone who is not a hardened Oktoberfest veteran, and carries a really good selection

Karaoke

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

D

Bayer & Böhmen Keller

Clayhills Drink Baar

edicated followers of fashion are people who move to their own rhythm, their minds going in directions as unpredictable as their clothing designs. In this month’s guide to the best Tallinn nightlife, we take a look at some of the unusual bar choices made by creative minds. Fashionistas don’t use a map like more conventional people do, planning routes from street to street. They stick a pin in the map, and then find out later how to get to it. This much I learned on a night out after this year’s ERKI (Estonian Academy of Arts) Fashion Show in Tallinn.

What’s unconventional about the Dubliner is that it’s been part of the fabric of Tallinn’s Old Town for so long that, if you don’t think, you’ll forget about it. The old quirks remain; in spite of it being a fauxIrish pub, the staff are very Estonian (cold and expressionless) and the drinks generic (Guinness, Saku, and unfortunately not even an attempt at stocking imported craft beers, or even the likes of Caffrey’s, when we visited last). If you wait at your table, as per local convention, to be served, you might fossilize, but if you go to order at the bar you’re often met with a blank stare. The dark wood interior feels oppressive. Tables are spread-out, giving an airport-lounge feel.

In fact, that’s what it is. The Dubliner has managed the challenging trick of importing the feeling of Birmingham Airport’s ”shall we get one more beer in before Alicante?” end-of-the-road pub to the Estonian capital. So what’s good about it? Well, there isn’t really anywhere else in Tallinn where you can be sure of well-cooked fish and chips or other traditional AngloIrish stomach-fillers. It’s also not expensive, so our advice is, get some food and some basic beers down you, and head for other spots.

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

An Unconventional Night Out The Dubliner

Sports

Nightclubs CatHouse Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3.

Bibabo

Chicago 1933

Viru väljak 4 Tallinn B2.

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Café Amigo Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Privé

Estonian

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Karja Kelder

Club Studio

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait Tavern

Panoraam

Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Kolmas Draakon

Parlament

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Valli Baar

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Café Amigo

Vabank

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Chicago 1933

Venus

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

anything but the most rudimentary conversation.

Baila is not a snob’s nightclub if you want to impress people with your ability to pay for Champagne while making witty banter with the cocktail waitresses, head to Club Prive or Vabank. Rather, it is a spot for happy people who just want to shake their thing, without worrying about how they look. As such, there is a clientele with a wide age-range.

If a Pitbull song were a nightclub, it would look something like Baila.

Manna la Roosa Vana-Viru 15, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Baila was the third destination in a haphazard but enjoyable jaunt around Tallinn’s Old Town, after an exhaustingly hot fashion show.

It replicated the atmosphere of the show, in that it was utterly sweltering inside, but this was mostly caused by the sheer number of sweaty bodies performing moves on the dance floor, which seemed to extend from the space intended for dancing, right out to the door.

There were tables and stools or comfy chairs for those needing a rest, although when we were in there, the music was too loud for

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Clazz

Try the fish and chips at The Dubliner.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Live Music

Baila

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Cigar Lounges

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

of hoppy, frothy German beers.

Like its neighbour pub it’s capable of giving a large-ish group a good early part of its night out without hurting the wallet too much.

The bar-staff are actually reasonably friendly, and are knowledgeable about what they are serving. Even the toilets, so often the downfall of Tallinn Old Town bars, are clean and well stocked. You risk the occasional run-in with drunken macho Estonian men, but if you stick with your group, you’ll be fine.

It definitely shouldn’t put you off visiting this pleasant cellar bar.

Gelsomino Karaoke

We moved across the Old Town to a newer watering hole, to rest our

feet after all that dancing. From a nightclub not for snobs, to a bar that has become known for its elite customers. A friend of this author’s, lamenting that I had not been seen for some time, speculated a few weeks ago that I was ”at Manna la Roosa with [my] posh friends”. It wasn’t true, but it was an evocative picture, demonstrating how a bar that opened a year ago has created a mystique of being ”for” a certain kind of person - an exclusive club without the membership card.

As with many establishments in Tallinn, a lot of that mystique is driven by high prices - most of the drinks will set you back at least 5.

✎ Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

However, the atmosphere is sparky, you’ll see lots of very sexy people in artfully creased designer gear, and there is usually a table available for every group. The decor is like the bedroom of a James Bond villain, with tinfoil on the walls and artwork on the ceiling, and the whole ”elegantly-wasted” ethos of the place makes it the perfect end of a night out for fashion-lovers. ■

Photo: Manna la Roosa

Manna La Roosa is the perfect end of a night out for fashion-lovers.

12

shop

■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3.

The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2.

This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2.

Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2.

The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2.

This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Shopping There are plenty of markets and shops close

■ Near the port:

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, MAP EVELIN LINHOLM, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

The Baltic Guide presents a handy guide for shopping at the port.

1 Lootsi Keskus. Lootsi 8.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2.

One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2.

Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3.

The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

■ A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3.

A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2.

Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8.

Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

Sadama Turg

Prisma Express can be seen from the doors of the D-Terminal, and just to the right is Lootsi Keskus.

The lower level houses a large outlet store and the Liviko liquor store. On the second floor, you will find a sports shop and flea market.

There is a new company located on the third floor. Toiduakadeemia or Food Academy, who offer cooking classes for companies and other groups. They just moved into to this new location, allowing them to take larger groups for different types of events.

2 Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 4.

Right next to Lootsi Keskus are old warehouses that have been given new life. There is a brewpub-restaurant where you can taste different types of beer. It is the biggest restaurant in the area. A café and liquor store also share the same building.

There is also a beauty salon.

3 Norde Centrum,

Lootsi 7.

The only Rimi Hypermarket in the city centre is well known among locals. This modern shopping centre offers a large selection of different shops. Tourists can go to the toy store, chemist, or health supply store. There are a few cafes and restaurants including Hesburger.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

13

ma

Sada ma

Sada

Sadamarket 5 Kai 5/Sadama 6

Kai

Sadama Turg Sadama 25-4 6

Terminal D

Kai

i Paa d

to the Tallinn passenger terminals, where day trippers can get all of their shopping done.

Mere puiestee 10.

The Merekeskus is housed in a building from the last century, where over two floors you can find tens of clothing stores, souvenirs, as well as sports equipment shops. The Mere Bull restaurant is located on the second floor, where they prepare steaks using a Josper grill.

There is also a large flea market located on the second floor of Merekeskus, where if you look

hard enough, you can score some pretty great finds.

5 Sadamarket,

Kai 5/Sadama 6.

Sadamarket is the area’s oldest shopping centre. Alkopörssi, a large liquor store can be found there, along with many cafes, restaurants, as well as tens of smaller shops where they sell everything from crystals to shoes.

There is also a chemist and hairdresser inside of Sadamarket.

6 Sadama Turg,

Sadama 25-4.

The Sadama market houses different natural and small producer goods in the large market hall. You can buy fresh fish from the fish counter and the selection of Estonian meat is excellent. There is a good selection of local cheese.

There are also a few cafes and another liquor store.

■

Lootsi Keskus

Sadamarket

ma

at the Port of Tallinn

Kochi Aidad

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Jõe

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4 Merekeskus,

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Aht

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4 Merekeskus Mere puiestee 10

Loo

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Kochi Aidad Lootsi 10 2 1 Lootsi Keskus 3 Lootsi 8 Norde Centrum Lootsi 7 di

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14

family fun

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

Want to stay indoors?

The winters in Estonia have been quite mild in recent years. If there is no snow, or if it’s too cold to go outside, then here are some suggestions of places to check out.

■ Happy Fly Trampoline Centre Vilde tee 150/ Vinkli tänav By public transport (trolleys 1,3,5 and buses 9, 11, 13, 20, 20A, 23, 24, 24A, 25, 36) What better way to spend a cold winter's day than by jumping up and down on a trampoline. Easily accessible by public transport, this makes for an entertaining excursion for the whole family.

■ Ronimisministeerium Tartu mnt. 80 E, Tallinn C4 Entrance is on the Tartu mnt side This is the first indoor rock climbing facility in Estonia, appropriately named the ministry of climbing.

There are different walls with various degrees of difficulty.

Instructors are available to help you if you've never been climbing before. Beginners and more experienced climbers welcome.

■ Kalev Spa Aia 18, Tallinn Old Town F3 Kalev Spa is a hotel, gym, spa, and aquatics centre all in one, located in the heart of Tallinn’s City Centre, on the outskirts of the Old Town.

Hotel guests can enjoy an active, yet relaxing spa holiday, without ever leaving the comfort of the hotel, or their bathrobes. And children won’t be bored for a moment; the aquatics centre has waterslides, wading pools, Jacuzzis, saunas, and 50 metre pool too! Day passes available.

Skating in the heart of the Old Town.

Winter Fun in Tallinn Did you know that there are beautiful forests and serene landscapes, all within a quick bus or train ride from Tallinn?

Or, that you can skate right in the centre of the Old Town?

Whether you like skiing, skating, tobogganing, snow tubing, or simply hiking, there is plenty to keep you busy this winter!

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Pirita Velodroom Rummu tee 3, Tallinn

■ Skating in the Old Town Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1

Have you ever skated in the centre of a medieval town? Enjoy skating right in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju Street. Skates are available for rental. And you can warm up with a cup of hot cocoa beside the rink.

■ Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Narva mnt 95, Tallinn Buses 1A , 5, 8, 34A, 38 - stop “Lauluväljak”

In winter, the slopes of the Song Festival Grounds are packed with skiers, snowboarders and toboggans. The Winter Park has a snow park with ten obstacles including flat boxes, a rainbow, A Frame, Wave box, some pipes and more.

Skaters can enjoy a skating rink; cross-country skiers can enjoy 1.8 kilometres of tracks, suitable for both classic and skating styles; and snow tubes are provided for snow tubing.

The trails at Pirita are used for walking in summer and skiing in winter.

In winter, the trails are lit until 22.00.

There are 7.2 kilometres of trails all together. Ski equipment rental is available from the Pirita Velodrome, as well as locker and shower rental.

ding. Equipment can be rented and individual and group lessons can be organised for beginners and skiers that are more advanced and snowboarders alike. ■

■ Nõmme Spordikeskus Külmallika 15a, Tallinn Train schedules: www.elektriraudtee.ee

If you have never been to this suburb of Tallinn, then you’ve been missing out. This forest suburb is beautiful both in summer and in winter. It’s easily accessible by train, and you can take part in both cross-country and downhill skiing.

Enjoy 1, 2, 3, 5, 15 kilometre crosscountry ski trails from the Nõmme Spordikeskus. Ski equipment rental is also available.

■ Nõmme Snowpark (Nõmme Lumepark) Vana-Mustamäe tee 16, Tallinn

The Nõmme Snow Park offers downhill skiing and snowboar-

Winter fun at the Song Festival Grounds

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

beauty

15

Modern Beauty Painlesss laser hair removal, almost.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS LASERMED

LaserMed opened in Tallinn’s Old Town last summer,, and they have already become quite uite popular. I went to visit them in December to meet their doctors rs and find out more about what procedures ocedures they offer.

Laser hair removal moval treatments have been around for decades. I, myself,, have considered it for a number of years, but have never ever committed to it because se of cost and fear of pain. The pain factor is a bit absurd, bsurd, because somehow w us women will continue ue to wax, pluck, and shave have away our unwanted ted hair, instead of going ng through a few laser er hair removal treattments, which, byy the way, are not ass painful as they used d to be. Laser hair ir removal has comee a long way.

Upon my visit to o LaserMed, I decided to finally give in to my curiosity ty about laser hair removal. The he LightSheer

The doctors at LaserMed are happy to answer any questions you may have.

DUET laser is one of the best lasers out there for laser hair removal. It uses a vacuumremo assisted technology that assi increases the hair removal inc area; meaning procedures ar aare more effective and ffaster. For example, hair removal on legs can be done in just 15 minutes, whereas with an older laser, it would have taken 45 minutes.

The LightSheer DUET laser is one of the best lasers out there for laser hair removal.

Winter is the best time Wi for la laser hair removal procedures beca because hair is at its darkest.

Darker h hair is easier for the laser to find. IIn summer, hair is lighter

from the sun. The procedure is relatively painless. You can feel the vacuum of the handset pull your skin upwards. There is a warm feeling. After the procedure, your skin is red and slightly irritated. To soothe the skin after the treatment, the doctor holds an ice pack to your skin for a few minutes. By the next day, the irritation should be gone.

The LightSheer DUET laser has two different hand pieces. The larger one is for legs, back, and underarms; where as the smaller one is used to treat more sensitive areas, like face and bikini.

visit LaserMed for the first time, you will have a consultation with one of the doctors there to discuss your needs and decide on the best course of treatment. Sergei Sarap M.D., Aleksandr Jesmenov M.D. and Irina Maksimova M.D. are happy to answer any questions you may have.

In addition to laser hair removal, LaserMed also offers Fractional Laser Medical and Aesthetic Treatments, Botulin Toxin (Botox) Injections, Dermal Fillers, Biorevitalisation, and Marma Therapy. ■

Laser hair removal still requires multiple treatments. When you

LaserMed Aia 7, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Location

Back to the Classics Sikupilli Ilusalong is your one stop shop for beauty.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Sikupilli Ilusalong offers a full range of salon services.

The salon uses Angel Nails brand products.

It had been ages since I had a classic manicure. If you are like me, you’ve probably been going for gel polish manicures because you don’t have to wait for your nails to dry. The gel polish manicure takes the waiting away, but you miss out on the nice hand soak and the thorough cleaning and polishing of your nails.

At Sikupilli Ilusalong, you can have it all, because as I found out, their regular nail polish dries very quickly. The salon uses Angel Nails brand products. While they do offer a manicure with gel nail polish as well, sometimes a classic manicure is a nice change of pace.

My hands are quite dry in winter, and what was particularly

nice about this manicure was the hand massage before the polish was applied. It left my hands feeling relaxing and moisturised.

The salon also uses a pre base coat that is rich in vitamin E. After the polish was applied, I sat for about 5 to 10 minutes while I waited for my nails to dry, then I was on my way. A classic manicure costs 14.

Sikupilli Ilusalong offers a full range of salon services including hair cut and colouring, waxing, and tanning. Service is friendly and attentive. ■

Location Sikupilli Ilusalong Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn C4.

Located inside the Sikupilli Shopping Centre

16

january events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

Winter at the Estonian Open Air Museum Winter at the Estonian Open Air Museum is filled with all kinds of delicious activities. Check their website for full event details.

Bread baking at Härjapea Farm Friday at 3 pm - the starter is prepared .

Saturday - batter is shaped and put into the oven.

Sunday - fresh rye bread is ready for tasting.

Härjapea handicraft Saturdays Every Saturday!

The Härjapea Farm ladies will introduce knitted products from the 1920s-30s.

Jan - wool dresses Feb - children's knitted clothes

Kuie School Writing Technique Days Every Saturday and Sunday!

The Kuie School mistress will show how to produce beautiful letters using ink and a quill.

Bread baking sessions: Jan 2-4 Feb 6-8 March 6-9 April 3-5

Sepa Farm Winter Activities

Härjapea Farm Food Sundays

Lau Store Weekend Radio Sessions

Jan - New Year's Eve foods Feb – Shrovetide foods

Saturdays and Sundays!

In the 1930s, the radio was a luxury item. The village gathered around to listen to the shows.

The Lau Store also sells fabric, chocolate and other products.

Saturdays and Sundays!

Jan – light sources - candles and candlesticks Feb - spinners and ribbon making

Photo: Estonian Broadcasting Museum, 1959

Peace and War in Posters Until 15 January Hungarian Institute, Piiskopi 2, Tallinn B1 A fascinating exhibit of posters from 1910 onwards, which depicts various themes including consumerism, daily life, and war. Free entry.

Photo: Event Organiser

My Old Radio Tallinn TV Tower Until 28 February Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Learn about the history of the radio at the exhibit, My Old Radio. You can look at different receivers used in homes and made in Estonia, the Soviet Union, and abroad. The exhibit is also interactive – try your hand a hosting your own radio show and record a short segment to take home with you. Entrance to the exhibit is included with a ticket to the TV Tower.

DocPoint Tallinn 29 January – 1 February Tallinn, Various locations

This annual festival takes place in cooperation with DocPoint Helsinki, one of the leading film festivals in the Nordic countries. The film festival brings documentaries from around the globe to Tallinn. Visit the DocPoint website for full programme details.

Finnish Glass Art 2005-2010 Until 25 January Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town G1 Finnish glass design has changed considerably in the last 25 years. Twenty five years ago there were six large independent glassworks and studio glass art was just getting started. Iittala, the internationally renowned glass manufacturer is the only one still in operation today. This exhibit displays the works of over 60 contemporary Finnish glass artists.

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2.

■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Photo: Event Organiser

MustonenFest 2015 30 January – 8 February Various Locations

Andres Mustonen and his ensemble Hortus Musicus started this annual festival in 1989 with a series of winter baroque music concerts. The festival attracts international artists, with a focus on the interaction between Eastern and Western music cultures.

walking tour

17

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The small suburb of Kassisaba is bordered to the west by Tehnika Street and to the east by Toompuiestee.

Walking tour: Kassisaba The Kassisaba suburb of Tallinn is like a small village in the city centre.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The smell of birch wafts through the air, somewhere a rooster crows. We are in the middle of Tallinn, but it feels like we are somewhere in the countryside.

Kassisaba (Cat’s Tail) is a small, yet vivid part of the city, located close to the Old Town. You can easily get there by going down the hill from Toompea and crossing Toompuiestee.

The suburb’s interesting name has puzzled people for years. In Old German, the road leading from the fortress was named Katzenschwanz (Katze means cat).

You can start the walking tour of Kassisaba at the top of Wismari Street near Falgi Park. The park is well kept and has many beautiful oaks and larches.

There is a large playground for children in the park with swings and things to climb on. During the Soviet period, the park was named Lastepark, or Children’s Park.

Falgi Park got its name from the Toompea Guild Alderman Hans Heinrich Falc, who ordered the building of the park in

1857. The British Embassy is located at the edge of the park.

When visiting Kassisaba be sure to walk along the small streets and take in the interesting architecture of the area. Many of the old wooden houses have been renovated, but many remain dilapidated. Here and there you will also see some ultra modern contemporary architectural achievements.

The area’s original architecture are the wooden houses, which have high limestone foundations. The houses have nice detailing, both around the windows and doors. Many of the old houses are protected, to preserve the valued milieu for generations to come.

The large yards bearing fruit trees are of extra value. If you dare peek into a yard, you will be surprised by what you see. In one yard, there were six old Mercedes!

You can stop for a coffee at the Kassisaba Café on Koidu Street. Marie Under, a well-known Estonian poet was born on that same street in the 1800s. Barack Obama quoted a few lines from one of her poems during his visit to Tallinn last autumn. ■

a

Stop for a coffee at the Kassisaba Café on Koidu Street.

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Minimum age limit 21 years.

Open 24h.

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18

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 5

Estonian Health Museum TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The human body is a complicated system, but one that is also fascinating. That is the inspiration behind the new permanent exhibit at the Estonian Health Museum. A Heart to Heart About Your Body looks at the human body, its anatomy, our evolution, health and illness.

The museum aims to teach visitors about their body in order to make more informed and healthy choices.

This is not your average boring anatomy textbook. The exhibit presents information in an exciting and interactive way that is sure to interest everyone. There are plenty of hands-on displays, like the virtual hairstyle machine, where you can send a photo of yourself via email.

The recently renovated Estonian Health Museum is located in

aaaaaaaaa

Tallinn’s Old Town. Not all of the exhibits are complete, but there is certainly enough to you keep you occupied for a few hours.

The full exhibit is expected to be completed by spring, just in time for the 90th anniversary of the museum. ■

Location Lai 30, Tallinn Old Town F2 Tu 10.00 – 18.00, We 10.00 – 19.00, Th – Su 10.00 – 18.00 The museum is closed on Mondays.

Tickets: ■ ■ ■ ■

Adults: €6 Students/Seniors: €4 Family: €15 Children under 8 years have free entry.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

■ Museums

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee.

We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu)

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee.

1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda.

Tu-Su 12-18

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee.

Tu-Su 10-19

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2.

(Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums &

Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJAANNUUAARRYY 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Balti jaam Telliskivi

1 Kadriorg – Kopli 2 Ülemiste – Kopli 4 Ülemiste – Vana-Lõuna

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike-Õismäe

Kolde puiestee

Lille Looga Mustjõe

Ülase

Hipodroom

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

Taksopark Koskla

Tihase

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Löwenruh

Nurmenuku

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

Kaja

Szolnok

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli

2, 4

Pae Bus Station

Majaka põik

VäikePaala

Airport

JÄRVE

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy

As of 20 November, tram No 4 will be running between Vana-Lõuna and Ülemiste stops.

Sääse

Kullerkupu

KADRIORG

Paberi

6*

Linnu tee

Aiandi

KADRIORG

VANA-LÕUNA

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

1

Vana-Lõuna 4

Tedre

Sinilille

VEERENNI

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

Vineeri

Marja

Sinilille

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

UUS-MAAILM

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

From the driver

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Balti jaam Ädala

Humala

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card 6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

port

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

20

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJAANNUUAARRYY 22001155

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso.

A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

P

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing.

There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,58 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ■ Bt air: i

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,15 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,26 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

Photo: Jarek Jõepera

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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

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ŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA MAAKONNAD 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU VILJANDIMAA SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'

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DISTANCES) #

isa

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26Ëš00'

27Ëš00'

ŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

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