The Baltic Guide ENG February 2015 by The Baltic Guide

f e b r u a r y 2 0 15

Renegades of Rhythm – DJ Shadow & Cut Chemist New Restaurants in Tallinn 43rd Tartu Marathon Beauty Treatments to Keep You Warm

Winter Holidays in Estonia Nightlife – Pub Guide: Cosiest watering holes in the Old Town

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editorial

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Estonian Cinema

t’s been a great year so far for Estonian cinema. The EstonianGeorgian film “Tangerines” was nominated for a Golden Globe in the category of best foreign language film. This is the first time an Estonian film has ever been nominated. We didn’t win, but it truly marks an important event for the Estonian film industry. The good news continues: “Tangerines” was also nominated for an Oscar in the best foreign language film category. And while we won’t know the outcome before this paper goes to print, here’s hoping for a win. The film’s producer, Ivo Felt, said in an interview

with ETV that the chance of “Tangerines” winning was slim. What can we say, Estonians are modest people. If we keep our fingers crossed for snow, then February should be a wonderful month to get outdoors for cross-country skiing and skating. If the snow does not grace us with its presence this winter, as was the case last year, there is still plenty to keep you busy, inside and outdoors. Enjoy great concerts, fascinating art exhibits, and much more! Happy travels! Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

Contents 3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

February Highlights

restaurants

01 Top DJs in Tallinn

8 restaurants: Tommi Grill Sesoon Leib Resto & Aed Uulits Burger Box Café Lyon Maisons de Champagne Ginger Café

Two world-class DJs, Cut Chemist and DJ Shadow, will be performing at Tallinn’s Rock Café on February 14. This unique evening will also feature hip hop legend Afrika Bambaataa. Tickets available from TicketPro. Read more about this event on page 16.

02 Sauna Marathon Love sauna? The sauna marathon lasts for six hours, where participants are given maps to help find the locations of the saunas. At least three minutes must be spent in every sauna. The marathon takes place on February 22 at the Kääriku Sports Centre.

Photo: Concert organiser

shopping

03 Wellness festival Wellfest will be held from March 2-8. In addition to spa treatments, visitors can enjoy the cuisine of Saaremaa. Saaremaa hotels and spas will be participating in the event.

04 Snowboard Contest The Estonian Open Slopestyle competition will be held from February 20-22. It is one of the most significant snowboarding competitions in Estonia. Participants include international snowboarders and Estonian freestyle skiers.

10, 23 entertainment 12-13 active holiday 14 shopping 15 beauty 16 february events 17 walking tour 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information

05 Shrove Tuesday Tobogganing

february 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Maarja-Liisa Mahla Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

n We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

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In Estonia, Shrove Tuesday is spent sledding with the whole family. The best sledding hill is at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds, and the Nõmme hill. Spend a traditional Shrove Tuesday at the Estonian Open Air Museum on February 15 and 17.

sightseeing

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Photo: EAS

Must-see sights of the Old Town in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Photo: Lembit Michelson

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

Kiek in de kök

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

n Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee

sightseeing

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Estonia at-a-glance

Area: 45,227 km². Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Outside of the Old Town Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

n Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Tourist Information Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

Pirita

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

n Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

n Currency Exchange

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Holidays

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015

MAD MURPHY ’S

Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill

FRESHEST SALAD, PASTA AND PIZZA IN TOWN! VAPIANO FOORUM Hobujaama 10, Tallinn. Near the harbour.

• Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square)

VAPIANO SOLARIS Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Open Sun-Thu 11-23, Fri-Sat 11-24

Mündi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee

VAPIANO EESTI FREE WIFI WWW.VAPIANO.EE

VAPIANO HELSINKI Mikonkatu 15, Helsinki Open Mon-Thu 11-23, Fri 11-01, Sat 12-01, Sun 12-23 VAPIANO HELSINKI FREE WIFI

PASTA & PIZZA from

5,50€

WWW.VAPIANO.FI

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…” Jane, 36; London

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, Old Town, Tallinn info@beergarden.ee Ph.: +372 688 0013; Mob.:+372 565 2004 Fri - Sat 10.00-05.00, Sun - Thur 10.00-00.00

restaurants

n Uulits Tallinn’s love of gourmet street food continues to grow. Uulits’ menu has a selection of burgers and wraps, and fries as a side. All sauces, mayo, and ketchup are made in-house. In addition to a regular side of fries, you can try spicy fries with cheddar and jalapeno. Kadaka tee 135a, Tallinn.

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n Maisons de Champagne

n Café Lyon

Who doesn’t love champagne? Well, now you have an excuse to drink more with the addition of Maisons de Champagne to the Old Town restaurant scene. Located in the cellar of Spot restaurant, this champagne bar has a cosy atmosphere, great food (brought down from the restaurant above), and good service.

One of Tallinn’s favourite cafés now has a much more convenient city centre location in the Viru shopping centre. Their extensive selection of house made French pastries, long a la carte menu, and daily specials ensure there is something for every palate.

Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn A2. Viru Keskus – entrance to the right of the Tammsaare Park entrance.

Vene tn 4, Tallinn Old Town H2. Inside Restoran Spot.

Local Staple Food lunch

appetisers: €3.50 - €5.50; mains €5,50-€15; dessert: €3-€5 Text Mikko Savikko, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Many that have had late night munchies know Tommi Grill. The Tatari Street location is open until 7am. It is a popular place to visit after a night out. Tommi offers lunch on weekdays. Service is fast and steady; you certainly don’t have to wait more than a few minutes for your food. A daily soup and salad cost €2. Lunch comes in two different sizes. The €3 portion is a regular size and the €3.80 portion is already quite large. You order at the counter, where you can buy drinks as well. Bread and cutlery is available at a side

Lunch places in Kalamaja:

After lunch, many of the lunch specials have already sold out.

n Kohvik Sesoon. Niine 11. Tallinn A1. n F Hoone.Telliskivi 60a. Tallinn A1. n Foody Allen. Telliskivi 60a. Tallinn A1. n Lendav Taldrik Resto. Telliskivi 60a. Tallinn A1.

Look for daily lunch specials at many restaurants and cafés in Tallinn.

table in the dining room. Food is brought to the table. If the daily specials don’t tickle your fancy, then the regular menu offers many more options. There is even a children’s menu, with a pork filet for €4.50. After lunch, starting at 5pm, is Happy Hour at Tommi Grill,

which lasts for three hours. You can then get two beers for the price of one. n

Location Tommi Grill Tatari 64, Tallinn Viru väljak 2, Tallinn

Lunch places in the city centre and port areas: n Reval Kohvik -cafés: Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Pärnu mnt 27, Narva mnt 1, Müürivahe 14. n St Patrick’s pubs: Suur-Karja 8, Narva mnt 5, Vana-Posti 7, Pärnu mnt 20 n Pub Woodstock. Tatari 6. Tallinn B2. n Mauruse pubi. Estonia pst 8. Tallinn B2. n Vana Villemi Pubi. Tartu mnt 50. Tallinn B3.

n Tallink Express-hotelli ExpressCafé. Supibuffee. Sadama 9. Tallinn A2. n Kochi Aidad. Lootsi 10. Tallinn A3. n Hell Hunt. Pikk 39. Tallinn Old Town G2. n Bollywood. Pikk 31. Tallinn Old Town G2. n Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina. Pikk 43. Tallinn Old Town G2.

The appropriately named Sesoon café uses seasonal ingredients.

Kalamaja’s Favourite Café bistro

appetisers: €2.80–€7.70; mains €6.00–€10.00; dessert €2.00–€3.80 Text: Mikko Virta, Photos: Andrei Chertkov

Sesoon opened a few years ago in a large yellow house on Niine Street, which also houses a yoga studio, clay studio and a puppet film studio. This Kalamaja café has been well received by visitors. Sesoon is among Tallinn’s Top 50 restaurants and a favourite place for lunch for people in the Tallinn area, but also

busy in the evenings. Often one can spot Estonian actors and musicians here. Sesoon’s success lies in the fact that it is reasonably priced and the food is delicious. Compared to many other lunch places, the food at Sesoon has a pinch more flavour and imagination. In January, lunch included pureed beetroot soup, vegetable puree with liver sauce and cucumber salad, as well as baked apple with vanilla sauce. Seasonal ingredients are used in an inter-

esting way. In the fall, the menu included mushroom and vegetable lasagne and a sea buckthorn lassi. The daily special costs €3.50, soup is €1,80, and dessert €1,20. The three-course lunch is €6. Daily offerings can be found on the Sesoon Facebook page. Lunch specials often sell out, so it’s best to arrive early. n

Location Kohvik Sesoon Niine 11, Tallinn. Map Code A1.

Warm up at Sesoon with winter comfort food.

restaurants

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n Burger Box

n Ginger Café

Burger Box is not your regular burger joint – this is burger place with an Asian twist. What does that mean exactly? Think pulled pork burger with crispy kim chi fries on the side. It was not quite open at the time this article was written, so we haven’t had a chance to test it out, yet. Burger Box is neighbours with Põhjala Brewery’s Speakeasy, so you won’t have to go far in the cold for a great beer, or vice versa.

Enjoy Thai and Indian cuisine at the new Ginger Café, conveniently located just outside of Tallinn’s Old Town. During the week, Ginger Café offers a reasonably priced lunch menu, with specials ranging from €3.40-€3.90. The cosy and colourful atmosphere, and friendly staff make this a great place to visit if your are looking for some spice.

Kopli 4, Tallinn A1.

Salt cured white fish with salt baked Congo potatoes and tarragon cream

Toompuiestee 29, Tallinn A1.

Photo: Ginger

Speciality local ingredients star on the menu at Leib Resto & Aed.

Food for the Soul local

appetisers: €5.50 - €9.50; mains €12-€21; dessert: €4.50-€9 Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Leib, meaning black bread in Estonia, is a staple part of every meal. It is one of the things that you think of when you think of Estonian cuisine. Leib Resto & Aed is the brainchild of Kristjan Peäske and Janno Lepik. Kristjan is a sommelier and Janno, a chef. “We wanted to open a restaurant and do the things that we are good at and love”. Kristjan therefor can be seen chatting with customers and putting together Leib’s excellent wine list. Janno, on the other hand, you will find in the kitchen, creating seasonal dishes with speciality local ingredients, many of which can only be found at Leib.

The Baltic Guide went to visit Leib in January to try some dishes off their latest menu. Ketri, the head waitress was happy to suggest a few things to try. For appetisers, we tried the Kalamatsi dairy feta cheese with apple compote, marinated onions and barley chips, as well as the salt cured white fish with salt baked Congo potatoes and tarragon cream. The feta cheese is made especially for Leib and is an unlikely combination with the apple compote, but works well. The white fish was a colourful dish with the purple Congo potatoes, and had a pleasant balance of different textures. For main courses, vegetarians will certainly not be disappointed with the house made ricotta gnoc-

chi and mushroom ragout. Estonia is known for its great selection of wild mushrooms and what better way to try them than in this warming winter dish. The pan-fried pike perch was fried in butter and the skin is always crispy. Once again, the balance of flavours and textures with a rich roasted parsnip cream and fresh coriander salad is a match made in heaven. In addition to the already wonderful drinks list, Kristjan and Janno also brew their own craft beers under the Hopster label. Their beers are available in both of their restaurants. n

Location Leib Resto & Aed Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town A2.

Ricotta gnocchi with wild mushroom ragout

nightlife

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Photo: Kaarel Mikkin

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs

Gay

Clayhills

G-punkt

Drink Baar

X-baar

Hell Hunt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Karaoke

Mad Murphy’s

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Nimeta Baar

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Protest

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

Põrgu

Nightclubs

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1. Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Fancy Pants

his month, The Baltic Guide takes a look at the bars in Tallinn where you can dress up to the nines, clink Champagne glasses, and impress any fellow-traveller. Come with us, on a journey through time, space, and luxury.

Vana-Viru 8, Tallinn Old Town H3

Deja Vu has long been a favourite of Tallinn’s Russian-speaking Photo: Kaarel Mikkin

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Club Baila

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sigari Maja

Club Hollywood

Klubi Teater is, as the name suggests, a club in a theatre. Sitting next to the Russian Theatre (Vene Teater) and looking across at Vabaduse Valjak, the club is a last-days-of-Rome hymn to decadence. If you have a business client from Finland or Russia who wants to sample Tallinn’s good life, or you just have a wish to dance around trees while the bestlooking dancing showgirls in town

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Privé

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Karja Kelder

Club Studio

Kochi Ait Tavern

Loung Club Violet

Kolmas Draakon

Teater

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Vabank

Valli Baar

Venus

Live Music

Late Night Dining

Café Amigo

Istanbul Kebab

Chicago 1933

Loca

Clazz

Söögiplats

NYC Piano Bar

Taco Express

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Klubi Teater

Butterfly Lounge

La Casa del Habano

Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Though this well-run bar is frequented by the high-fashion and big-business set, and may be a bit too glitzy for the hipster in your life, if you enjoy the atmosphere, it’s among the best places to grab a drink and a bite to eat in the Old Town. Remember to reserve a table if you’re going in on a Friday or Saturday, as it’s incredibly popular. Sit back, relax, and you’ll want to come to Deja Vu all over again.

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Café Amigo

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

community, perhaps due to its decor, which is certainly unsubtle, with murky black and dark brown wood mingling with red upholstery. There is a smoking room upstairs that looks like Liberace’s boudoir, for people to use if they want a water pipe, and all the usual flavours are available. Downstairs, musical performances and fashion shows are regularly held, many of which are by upand-coming artists and designers. The food is among the best that you will find in the reasonable price bracket, and the bar’s chefs offer a comprehensive restaurant menu alongside a sizeable sushi card.

Bibabo

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Estonian

Wabadus - A sophisticated start to your night out.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Vabaduse Väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1

Deja Vu

The Highlander

Cigar Lounges

Wabadus Cafe Wabadus used to be known as Cafe Moscow, and is a long-time fixture of Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square). Inside, the 1970s feel, muchloved by customers, continues, while it’s possible on the lower floor to recline in very comfy soft chairs and people-watch through the fulllength windows that offer the best possible view onto the square. The menu has a selection of some good café classics and the opening hours have sometimes seemed arbitrary, but if you’re willing to look past the bar’s idiosyncrasies you’ll find a cosy, relaxed, yet sophisticated experience with which to start your night out.

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3. Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2. Roseni 9, Tallinn A2.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1. Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1. Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Estonia pst 7, Tallinn B2. Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock Café

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

Tapper

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

do their thing on plinths, this is the place for you. The bar-staff are fast and efficient, even the security guards are polite, and though this author suspected he would feel excluded from the party atmosphere, the whole experience is, thrillingly, quite inclusive. Wear a shirt if you’re a man, a nice dress if you’re a woman, and you’ll be totally fine. Perhaps the greatest thing about Klubi Teater is that it’s a nightclub that welcomes people. Though it has a reputation as a ”Russian club”, all nationalities mix without any trouble. The night I was there, I decided to buy a VIP ticket, to see what the smaller room was like. What impressed me most was that the VIP room was spacious and pleas-

ant, but the main room, unlike in rival club Vabank, was equally nice to drink and dance in. I encountered a problem with a young man wearing a bowtie and an attitude problem, who tried to convince me the VIP room was for his employer’s company party only. Impressively, the security guard earned my respect by, rather than following the money, apologising to me and telling me to enjoy the room. This was a fantastic customer-service experience where I had not expected it. n

. Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels… Always up to 500g

Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

Schnitzel Haus • Open Sun-Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-02 Rüütli 28/30, Old Town • Tel +372 6 450 059 • www.schnitzelhaus.ee

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

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Brasserie & Restaurant TELETORN at 175 metres high, is northern Europe’s highest restaurant! It offers magnificent views as far as Helsinki. February menu

get the latest info on tourism in Estonia

„Cool for two”

perfect for sharing with friends 14 February Valentine’s Day Dinner

Please book ahead! Tel. +372 5815 0020

Live music Friday and Saturday nights

be the first to know about upcoming events let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions B R A SS E R I E & R ESTAU R A N T

* Visit our facebook page for more details.

Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Open daily: 10 - 23 Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee/restoran

How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus – Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst – Teletorn Takso24 +372 640 8927

active h Ronimisministeerium is Tallinn’s newest indoor sports centre.

Safe Climbing Text Mikko Savikko, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The rock-climbing centre at Zelluloos is meant for both beginners and more experienced climbers. This is the first centre of its kind in Estonia. It is particularly suitable for bouldering or climbing without safety harnesses. For safety purposes, the floor has been softened and one must always stick to the rules. Children,14 and under must always be supervised by an adult. “There is no running allowed and we teach beginners how to fall properly”, explained Mariana Mutso, who teaches clients how to climb. The Ronimisministeerium (or Ministry of Climbing) has rooms like artificial caves. Beginners start from green routes and more experienced climbers can look for the more advanced black routes. “Climbing is a serious hobby like chess. Being strong is only part of it. I, for example, did one move 70 times before I was successful. The feeling afterwards was great”, explains Mutso about her climbing expereince. A single entry pass to the Ronimisministeerium costs €6, and €3.50 for those under 14 years of age. Socks are mandatory and if need be, they can be purchased on location for €2. The best attire for climbing is comfortable clothes, which can get dirty with magnesium powder. n

Other indoor activities at Zelluloos: n Zelluloosi Sports Club. Tartu mnt 80 D. Gym, aerobics, badminton, table tennis, nursery. n Zelluloos Bowling, Tartu mnt 80 B. 10 lanes, food and drink. n Zelluloos Trampoline Centre, Tartu mnt 80 D. 300 m2 trampoline, slides, maze and different equipment, Family ticket 15€ (4 persons). n Megazone, Tartu mnt 80 D. Laser games (5 €/person), adventure park for children 120 cm and taller (15 €/person), rally simulator.

Winter F

Location Ronimisministeerium Tartu mnt 80E, Tallinn C4.

Beginners and experts welcome at Ronimisministeerium.

Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Skating

Ice-skating among the medieval houses in the Old Town is always fun. You can go skating every day at the Harju Street rink from 10.00-22.00. Skate rental is available, if you happen to leave yours at home. www.uisuplats.ee You can also skate in Pärnu, if the weather allows. The skating

rink is located in the city centre, just a stone’s throw from Steffani Pizzeria. Due to the warm weather, the skating rink had not yet opened at the end of January. Tartu’s favourite skating places are Tamme Stadium and Annalinna Skate Track. You can skate year round at the Lõunakeskus shopping centre on their artificial rink, as an alternative to shopping.

holiday

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At a height of 120 meters, one can see a very different view of Tallinn from a hot air balloon.

Winter Panorama Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Balloon Tallinn operates in the winter too, though mostly on weekends. In suitable weather, the balloon flies on weekdays as well. If the balloon is in the sky, then it'sopen. The maximum wind speed to fly is 12 m/s. Many certainly think that up in the air, it is even colder than the ground below. The Baltic Guide visited in January and we can say that up there the air was not as cold, even though the thermometer showed -7 C. One can wear the same outfit up in the air and on the ground. If you need extra clothes, you can ask on the ground at the ticket sales desk.. It is a very cool experience to rise silently to an altitude of 120 m, and experience how the

world appears to birds. The snow carpeted Old Town stands proudly to the south. The houses and church towers at the top of Toompea are mysteriously beautiful in the wintry sunshine. The ball rises into the sky using helium and is held at the same height as it is attached to the ground. It will not be flying anywhere independently. Current flight information can be found on Facebook and the Balloon Tallinn website. n

Location Balloon Tallinn Between A-terminal and the cruise ship port. Flights are running on weekends in the winter 10.00-20.00, weather permitting. Additional information can be found at www.balloontallinn.ee

Fun for the Whole Family Skiing, sledging, or ice skating – we’ve got it all! Snowboarding and Downhill Skiing

Estonia’s biggest downhill ski hill is in Kiviõli Adventure Centre, located 130 km from Tallinn. The runs at Tuhamäe are 400-700 m long. The biggest snowboard park is also located in Kiviõli, which has a half pipe, and railings for all skill levels. The half pipe is 120 m long. The Estonian Open Slopestyle will take place from February 20-22. www.tuhamägi.ee You can also go snowboarding near Otepää in Kuutsemäe. Snowboarders and skiers will find 200-500 m long hills. The distance between Otepää and Kuutsemäe is 14 km. www.kuutsemae.ee Snowboards and skis can be rented at both Kiviõli and Kuutsemäe. The hill at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds and in Nõmme offer downhill skiing and snowboarding a little closer to Tallinn. With the warm weather we’ve been having, it’s a good idea to check the conditions on Facebook before going:

And don’t forget these! Other favourite places for families in Tallinn: n Tallinn Zoo (Tallinna Loomaaed), Paldiski mnt 145 & Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn. n Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum), Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. n Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam), Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn. n Energy Discovery Centre (Energia Avastuskeskus, Pohja pst 29, Tallinn A2. n Tallinn TV Tower (Tallinna teletorn), Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinna.

Nõmme Lumepark and Winter Park Lauluväljak. There are also hills for snow tubing at both locations.

Sledging

There is no shortage of good sledging hills all over Estonia. There is even a decent hill in the centre

of Pärnu, though the city itself is pretty quiet. Munamägi is located between Lõuna and Ringi Streets. Even though the hill is small, you can still get a bit of momentum. In Tallinn, the Song Festival Grounds and the Nõmme hill are the best for sledging. The hill at the Song Festival Grounds is gentle

and long, and has plenty of space for lots of people at a time. It can often be quite crowded. The hills in Nõmme, are at times, dangerously steep, so please be careful. On Shrove Tuesday, there can be the feeling of a folk festival on the hill. Even adults take to the slopes on that day. n

shopping

Warm Colours for a Cold Season

n Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

n Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

This funky 80s inspired ensemble brings a bit of summer into your winter wardrobe. The spotted skirt has a slimming effect and the muff adds a little bit of texture (and warmth) to the outfit. Classically designed frames enhance the outfit with a bit of sophistication.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Blouse, Seppälä €24.95 Skirt, River Island €53.95 Otre leather ankle boots, DANIJA (Ülemiste Shopping Centre) €99.99 Muff from Latvian designer Nóló (Ülemiste Shopping Centre) €146.95 CAZAL glasses, The House of Vintage Frames €235.00

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

n Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

n A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

The beret is back, with a twist. This gorgeous floral addition to a classic hat adds a bit of glamour to this Estonian handicraft accessory. This look is cosy, yet elegant, with warm lamb’s wool ankle length boots and the long oversized coat with winter flowers. And the silk dress: who says you can’t wear white after Labour Day?

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

Black, white and red is a match made in heaven. The necklace adds a hint of colour and sparkle. And the red coat and classic purse make a good outfit that can be dressed down for the office or dressed up for the evening. Dress, KAREN MILLEN €234.00 (Viru Shopping Centre) Red wool coat, KAREN MILLEN €419.00 Blue purse, River Island (Ülemiste Shopping Centre) €35.95 Leather ankle boots, DANIJA (Kristiine Shopping Centre) €99.99 Necklace, Expressions €29.99 Big, bold pieces of jewellery accent this classic pink-purple dress. The sleeves of the dress, by Latvian designer Nóló have slight slits in them to make the sleeves appear like gloves. The beautiful grey coat is just short enough to allow a dash of the purple dress to show at the bottom.

Dress, Nóló €119.67 (with discount) Coat, Marimo (price on request: info@marimofashion.com) Boots, NS King €169.95 (-5% with client card) Ring, Nóló €28.44 Bracelet, Nóló €85.36 Add a little bit of colour and glam to this classic riding look. This one of a kind coat is 100% wool. The large bag with a gold chain is suitable for both day and evening wear. The tall brown leather boots are a must-have for any wardrobe.

Dress, MARIMO €225.00 Trousers, River Island €41.95 Coat Nóló €343.67 Top, River Island €38.95 (Ülemiste Shopping Purse, River Island €37.50 Centre) Coat, NAMARIE €290.00 Beret, Annika Rosenthal, Boots, VAGABOND, DANIJA 129.00 from Namarie €54.00 Gianni Versace glasses, The Boots, Stefano Sabella, NS House of Vintage Frames € 215.00 King €103.95

n Food Markets

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Text: Kristina Lupp Photos: Andrei Chertkov Style: #zenjafokin Model: Estonian singer Elisa Kolk Make-up: Iren Tšuprijanovskaja (YSL)

Brighten up your winter with vibrant fashion.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

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Where to buy: Seppälä – Ülemiste Shopping Centre Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn C4. River Island – Viru Shopping Centre Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2. Danija Kristiine Shopping Centre – Endla 45, Tallinn Ülemiste Shopping Centre – Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn C4.

Nóló – Ülemiste Shopping Centre Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn C4. The House of Vintage Frames Müürivahe 28, Tallinn Old Town I3. Karen Millen – Viru Shopping Centre Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2. Expressions – Viru Shopping Centre Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2.

Marimo Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town I2. (In the courtyard) Namarie Müürivahe 21, Tallinn Old Town I3. NS King – Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn

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beauty

Warm up at the spa

Come in from the cold for a soothing body treatment at Hera Salongid. Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The northern European winter can be harsh for the skin. The cold, damp outdoor temperatures and the dry, hot indoor temperature can leave your skin dehydrated and tired. “In winter, we wear lots of layers of clothing, so in addition to the harsh weather, our clothes also dry out our skin”, explains Krista Ilves, manager at Hera Salongid. In other words, we need to keep our skin moisturised to keep it looking its best. The solution: a visit to the spa. Hera Salongid offers a variety of different treatments for the body. The Ayurveda massage, for example, is a fantastic treatment for winter, as I found out. This traditional Indian Abhyanga massage is adjusted for every body type. What is particularly soothing is the thick, warm oil that is

massaged over the whole body. The massage relaxes you immediately, so much so, that I almost fell asleep. Apart from the very relaxing warming feeling the massage gives, it also stimulates the lymph system and improves circulation. It speeds up metabolism, as well as the removal of toxins from the system. The thick, warm oil is also good for the very dry skin we can have in winter. I tried the Ayurveda full body massage (55 mins, €50), but if you have time, you can add the Ayurveda massage for face and head (25 mins, €35), for the ultimate winter relaxation package. The addition of the massage for face and head improves both sleep and concentration. The Ayurveda massage is suitable for both men and women. Service at Hera Salongid is friendly and professional. Hera Salongid offers a full range of beauty

procedures. Manicures and pedicures are the most popular, and Krista explained to me that Swedish and Finnish clients are particularly fond of the pedicures because of the thorough foot scrub they receive. The salons offer professional hairstyling services, tailored to meet the needs of each individual client. Children won’t be bored either - there are also spa treatments for those 14 and under, where children can have a facial or massage together with their parents. n

Location Hera Salongid is a chain of beauty salons within the Tallink Group. Salons can be found in the following two hotels, as well as on board the TallinnStockholm, Riga-Stockholm, and Helsinki Stockholm lines. Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel Sadama 11, Tallinn A2. Tallink City Hotel A. Laikmaa 5, Tallinn B2.

Service is professional at Hera Salongid.

Warm feet for a cold winter The paraffin wax treatment at i3 Viru Ilusalong is just what the doctor ordered.

Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Estonian winters are harsh and your feet suffer just as much as your hands and face from the cold. Pedicures are just as important in winter as they are in summer. Winter is a good time to go for a more thorough pedicure to soften feet, increase circulation, and just to relax by taking those feet out of those heavy boots. The pedicure with paraffin wax treatment and gel nail polish is a new combination of services offered at the i3 Viru Ilusalong in the Sokos Hotel Viru. I had never tried a paraffin wax treatment, though I have heard nothing but good things about it. “Winter is a great time for a paraffin wax treatment. Apart from its therapeutic benefits, it just feels nice and warm”, said Marge, my pedicurist.

Marge, the talented pedicurist.

The paraffin wax at i3 Viru Ilusalong is used once per client; this is to ensure that there is no cross contamination. It comes in

the form of a large sock that is heated with the wax inside it and then placed around your foot. After, your foot is inserted into another sock. The paraffin wax stays on your feet for 10 minutes. The feeling is wonderfully relaxing, almost like wearing heated slippers. Paraffin wax softens the skin, but there are also many other benefits to this soothing procedure. It offers pain relief to those suffering from arthritis and moisturises dry skin. The heat of the wax is soothing to strains and stress in muscles.

The pedicure with paraffin wax treatment and gel polish (€77) lasts up to two hours. The pedicure includes a footbath, scrub, and massage. Service is friendly and professional. The salon also offers a full range of services including waxing, haircut and styling, and massage. Bookings are recommended and can be made either by phone or online. n

Location i3 Viru Ilusalong Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2. Inside the Sokos Hotel Viru, 3rd floor.

The paraffin wax treatment and pedicure at i3 Viru Ilusalong.

february events

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ f e b r ua r y 2 0 1 5

IX Tallinn Winter Festival

■ Event and Concert Tickets

13 – 22 February Various Locations, Tallinn “Open you eyes, open your heart!” is the motto for this year’s classical music charity campaign. Well-known Estonian and foreign musicians (from Norway and Italy) will perform classical music at various locations throughout Tallinn to raise money for the Instruments Fund of the Pille Lill Music Fund. The fund supports Estonia’s up-and-coming musicians by helping them purchase high quality musical instruments. This is a wonderful opportunity to fill your February with beautiful music, while supporting the local arts.

Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: n Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. n Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. n Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

55 Years of Slippery Ski Trails Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The Tartu Cross Country Ski Marathon has attracted skiers to southern Estonian ski trails since the 1960s. The annual ski marathon will be celebrating its 55th anniversary this year. The event brings around 10,000 skiers to southern Estonia’s hilly trails annually. In addition to Estonian skiers, Otepää attracts international skiers as well as hundreds of participants from Finland. The golden age of the marathon was in the 1980s, which also holds a record for the largest number of participants. In 1985, 13,000 skiers took part in the marathon which was then the largest of its kind. In 2013, first place went to Norwegian Simen Oestesen, with a time of 2 hours and 45 min. Over a thousand international skiers took part.

The trail runs 63 km from Otepää to Elva and is completed in classic style. Of course, one can also choose the shorter 31 km long track from Arula to Elva. While last year’s marathon was cancelled due to lack of snow, there is more hope for this year’s event. In January, Otepää had more than 20 cm of snow. This anniversary will bring a number of additional events. The best costume will receive a prize, so bring your grandpa’s old wooden skis and ski outfit! Children’s events will be held in Tähtvere Ski Park on February 14. At the end of the day there will be a prize for each contestant. n

Location Tartu Marathon Tehvandi Stadium, Otepää. Otepää is 225 km from Tallinn.

Kuldkala Fishing Championships

Photo: Concert Organiser

DJ Shadow & Cut Chemist 14 February, Rock Café, Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn The Renegades of Rhythm tour features DJ Shadow and Cut Chemist like you’ve never seen them before. The concert will feature the artists behind six turntables, along with visuals supplied by video director Ben Stokes, known for his work with Meat Beat Manifesto, Nine Inch Nails, and The Orb. The tour will feature a historic vinyl collection, but both DJs want to point out that people should not come expecting just an ‘oldschool’ set. As DJ Shadow sums it up, “DJ Shadow + Cut Chemist + Bambaataa’s records + his blessings: it’s going to be epic. That’s all you really need to know.” Or, as Afrika Bambaataa puts it, “DJ Shadow and Cut Chemist are going to blow your funky mind.”

13-15 February, Viljandi The Kuldkala or Golden Fish Fishing competition is the biggest of its kind in the Baltics. The event takes place on Viljandi Lake, where competitors will compete to catch the marked fish, carrying cash prizes. Don’t want to fish, no problem. There will be concerts, a handicraft fair, and a flea market, as well as workshops. A fish soup competition will allow fish lovers to taste different fish soups. A special children’s programme will keep the little ones entertained too. Photo: Monika Otrokova

Doors 19.00 Tickets available from Ticketpro, starting at €29

Winter Ash Plateau Dance

Thousands of skiers participate in the annual Tartu Marathon.

7 February, 14.00 Kohtla-Nõmme Mining Park and Museum, Ida-Viru County What better way to spend a winter’s afternoon than with an outdoor dance festival? This traditional event brings together Estonian folk dance groups from different parts of the country for dancing and other events. Visitors can enjoy handicraft tents, straw figure making, visits to the Kiviõli Adventure Centre, and a big party with straw fireworks and fire dancing.

Old Town, on a Budget Text Jevgenia Gorski Photo Zinc Old Town Hostel

While you can sleep in a five star hotel in a medieval house in the heart of the Old Town, you can also stay relatively cheaply and comfortably in a historic building as well. Zinc Old Town Tallinn hostel is located in a two storey histori-

cal building built in 1914 over two floors and only 100 metres from Town Hall Square. Guests are offered comfortable rooms, together with free WiFi and a common room with a big screen TV, and a huge selection of DVDs and books. And don’t forget the modern kitchen too. What’s important: all rooms have large windows and high cei-

lings. Modern amenities are all located within walking distance from this medieval house. n

Location Zinc Old Town Hostel Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn I2 www.facebook.com/zincoldtownhostel

Photo: Valdor Ernits

Otepää Sauna Marathon 22 February, 12.00 Kääriku Sports Centre, Kääriku This annual event is truly unique. Registered teams of the Sauna Marathon attempt to visit as many saunas as possible in the course of six hours. Teams are given maps and must spend at least three minutes in each sauna, with bonus points given for a dip in an ice hole or cold-water pool. Awards will be presented to the team that visits all of the saunas in the shortest amount of time.

walking tour

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Estonia’s Winter Capital Otepää’s history dates back more than 2600 years. Text Mikko Savikko, Photos Andrei Chertkov, map Eve jaansoo

The first written record of this southern Estonian town goes all the way back to 1116. The Russian leader Mstislav invaded a castle, which is named in the Novgorod chronicles as Medvežja Golova (Bear’s Head). It’s thought that the name Otepää comes from the shape of the castle hill resembling a bear’s head. Otepää has a long history, but one of its most important moments is in 1884, when the Estonian Students’ Society went to Otepää and consecrated the blue, black and white Estonian flag. Otepää is known as Estonia’s Winter Capital. The 14 km long Kekkonen trail is located in Kääriku. In 1964, the Finnish president came to Estonia. He was known for his love of skiing and the townspeople organised skiing and sauna for Kekkonen. There are many stories told about this visit. Apparently Kekkonen had left his KGB guard, a poor skier, in the forest and had gone to the sauna with the “forbidden” skier, Heino Lipp. This year, an event will be organised to mark the visit on March 8, the 20th Kekkonen ski race. The Tehvandi Sport Centre is the organiser of the FIS World Cup in Otepää. The Sports Centre offers year-round training possibilities. It also has a K90 ski jump hill.

Peipsi

50 km

oo Tartu Pärnu Tallinn

Elva Rõngu

Põlva Kanepi

Otepää Valga

Räpina Võru

Many sporting events, like the Tartu Marathon, start at Tehvandi. But it’s not all about serious sporting events. The European Sauna Marathon takes place on February 22. It starts at Kääriku. Points are awarded for both speed and style. Thinking forward into the summer, the largest sports car rally Auto24 Rally Estonia takes place in July in Otepää. Tourism is an important part of Otepää’s economy. There are many different types of accommodation. As for food, there is a great selection of restaurants, fast food, and hotel restaurants, including a few places that made it onto Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. n

Location Otepää is located 225 km from Tallinn and 42 km from Tartu. Buses run hourly between Tartu and Otepää. A ticket costs €2.15.

www.balticguide.ee The Otepää Municipal Government Building

museum

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ f e b r ua r y 2 0 1 5

The winning design for the Arvo Pärt Centre by Nieto Sobejano Architects

Design Lines The many sides of Estonian architecture can be seen at the Museum of Estonian Architecture. Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Museum of Estonian Architecture

It’s worth a visit to the museum just to see the museum building, the Rotermann Salt Storage. The museum will open its doors on February 13, after being closed for technical renovations. The Museum of Estonian Architecture will reopen with a permanent display of 20th century Estonian architecture, as well as three temporary exhibits opening at the end of the month. “The layout of the museum hasn’t changed, but the perma-

nent exhibit of Estonian architecture on the main floor will have a new setup”, explains Triin Ojari, the museum’s director. “In the main hall of temporary exhibitions, we will be featuring the work of Nieto Sobejano Architects. Their winning design for the new Arvo Pärt Centre is among the many cultural buildings this renown Spanish office has created during the last years. The Pärt Centre is set to be completed by 2018 in Laulasmaa. Visitors can also look forward to an exhibit in the gallery, of the works of the 1930s architect, Roman Koolmar. “Koolmar

designed many buildings for the state, and while he may not be that well known, it is our mission here at the museum to introduce the public to all aspects of Estonian architecture”, explains Ojari. Koolmar escaped via Germany to the United States during World War Two and continued his work in Detroit. This work is also featured in the exhibit. n

Location Museum of Estonian Architecture Rotermanni Soolaladu Ahtri 2, Tallinn A2.

Upcoming Exhibits at the Museum of Estonian Architecture: n The window and the mirror. Nieto Sobejano Architects. 14.02.-22.03. 2015 n Architect Roman Koolmar. 21.02.-12.04. 2015 n Architectural competition: Rail Baltic terminals in Tallinn and Pärnu. 27.02.-5.04. 2015 Upcoming Summer Exhibition: Estonian manor houses: n Splendor, forever lost 19.06.-30.08. 2015

Museums & Galleries TALLINN n Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

n Art Museums &

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Galleries

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

getting around

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ ffeebbrruuaarryy 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi

Lõime

Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

From the driver

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Balti jaam Telliskivi

1 Kadriorg – Kopli 2 Ülemiste – Kopli 4 Ülemiste – Vana-Lõuna

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike-Õismäe

Kolde puiestee

Pirni

Zoo

Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala

Looga Mustjõe

Ristiku Sõle

Taksopark

Hipodroom

Mooni Koskla

Välja

Haabersti

UUS-MAAILM

Sinilille

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

VEERENNI

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

KADRIORG

Paberi Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja Bus Station

Vana-Lõuna 4

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli Majaka põik

2, 4

Pae VäikePaala

Airport

VANA-LÕUNA

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

Hobujaama

Vineeri

Tedre

n single ticket €1.60 n student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

J. Poska Mere pst

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

Tihase

Marja

Sinilille

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Balti jaam

Kelmiküla

Ädala Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nurmenuku

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

Kaja

Szolnok

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

n 1 hour ticket n 1 day (24h) n 3 days (72h) n 5 days (120h) n 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

n from the driver n from kiosks n from post offices n online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

Linnu tee Sääse

Kullerkupu

Ülemiste

E-tickets

Where to buy

Löwenruh Aiandi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Free

JÄRVE

n preschool children n adult travelling with children 3 years and under n holders of a validated Tallinn Card

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn

Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please...................................................... palun thank you.............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me............................................. vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning..................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening...................................... tere õhtust good night............................................ head ööd goodbye................................................ nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.................................. head reisi bon appetite........................................ jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health....................... terviseks

How much does this cost?.............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?................................... kas teil on? on teil? where is…............................................. kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean?...................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal)................... kuidas läheb? not bad................................................... pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you........... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you................... oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it?.................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian... mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English?...................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German?............ /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport TALLINN

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ ffeebbrruuaarryy 22001155 Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

n By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: n tram no. 2 n bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: n Blood alcohol level must be zero. n Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. n The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. n All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. n In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. n Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: n Budget – www.budget.ee n Europcar – www.europcar.ee n Hertz – www.hertz.ee n National – www.europcar.ee n Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

n By sea:

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN:

0,26€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. n n n n

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

n By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN:

0,58€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN:

1,15€ / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

n Bt air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

Photo: Jarek Jõepera

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Alev-vald Alev

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tugimaantee Kõvakattega maantee

Territoriaalmere piir

Kruuskattega maantee

3 km 2 1 0

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Alev-vald Alev

ALÛKSNE Pealinn TALLINN

L 23˚00'

Maakonna piir Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tartu rahu piir Territoriaalmere piir

nightlife

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ f e b r ua r y 2 0 1 5

Tallinn Pub Guide Where to drink and keep warm this winter.

with a wonderful selection of local Estonian beers too. Not familiar with craft beer? The staff are knowledgeable and can help you find something for your tastes. During the colder months, the fireplace in the corner is going all evening, making this a nice cosy place for a winter’s night. Koht also has a beer store at the front of the building, where you can buy a bottle or two to take home.

Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

stonia’s capital city is filled pubs and bars, and when visiting a new place it can be hard to know where to go. We’re here to help. We asked our readers about their favourite pubs. Here’s what they told us:

Põrgu

Photo: Jei Denise

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Põrgu is another cellar bar, though somehow it seems further down than others. The steep steps and the fact that there is minimal mobile phone reception down there adds to the appropriate name for the bar Põrgu, or hell. The menu offers home-style Estonian dishes, perfect for cold nights, and a good selection of beers on tap.

Highlander Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

As a recent addition to Tallinn’s pub scene, Highlander has quickly become a favourite among local expats and tourists alike. As the name suggests, it’s a Scottish themed pub with everything you might expect from a Scottish pub – whisky and haggis. Haggis balls anyone? Photo: Stina Kase

Pudel Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn A1.

If you’ve come to Tallinn for the first time, step out of the Old Town for an evening and visit the bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja, located just opposite the train station. Pudel is a 100% Saku-free zone, as the sign says on the door, and offers patrons an ever-changing selection of international beers. Regular quiz nights and other events add to the fun of Pudel and make for a great night out in a different part of town.

Clayhills

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

If you are looking for an Estonian pub, this might be as close as you will get. Also a long time part of the Tallinn pub scene, Karja Kelder offers a cosy cellar bar with great priced food and drinks. The atmosphere is jovial with the favourite Estonian drinking songs that are often played as part of the music selection.

Hell Hunt

Pööbel

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Hell Hunt has been a long time fixture in Tallinn’s pub scene. It’s a pub for everyone, as no matter what night of the week you come on, most tables will be full of all nationalities and age groups. The menu doesn’t change much, and you can expect typical pub food. This writer’s favourites – chicken strips and spicy cheese balls.

Müürivahe 15, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Ever wondered what a bar decked out with Soviet furniture looks like, well Sinilind is it. More of a bar than a pub, it had to be mentioned because of the great events it organises. There are DJs at the weekend playing alternative sets. You can also come for a great, yet simple meal for a reasonable price.

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Clayhills is Tallinn’s first gastropub, a casual pub that serves great food (try the fish and chips or club sandwich) and a great selection of local and international beer. At weekends, enjoy live music. If you’re a sports fan, this is one of the nicer places to come in the city to watch the game.

Sinilind

Toompuiestee 16, Tallinn B1.

Koht Lai 8, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Koht, or place as it translates in English is this writer’s local. Koht specialises in craft beers of the world. The fridges are stocked

Pööbel opened at the end of last year and has quickly become a local favourite. As with any new place, they are working out the kinks, so service can be a little slow, but if you’re not in a hurry, the cosy atmosphere of Pööbel is the place for you. The menu offers an Estonian twist on some pub favourites like their smoked burger and their drinks list includes a good selection of local and international beers.

Tops Soo 15, Tallinn.

Most people who live in Kalamaja will claim this as their local watering hole. It has a similar retro feel to it and is just a fun neighbourhood place to come for a different kind of night out. n

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