The Baltic Guide ENG February 2016 by The Baltic Guide

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 16

Art & Food at Tai Boh Indoor and Outdoor Family Fun in Tallinn Pet Shopping

Winter in Otepää Nightlife – Gay-friendly guide to the country’s capital

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

At long last, snow!

he new year brought with it something we haven’t seen in a long time, snow. Tallinn’s picturesque medieval Old Town streets are covered in the white stuff and it’s absolutely lovely wandering through them, hearing the crunching sound below your feet. Those interested in skiing can take part in the annual Tartu Marathon. Or, practice your technique at one of the many parks in and around Tallinn. Skate in Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju street, then warm up in one of the city’s many cosy cafés. Winter has finally arrived!

The 24th of February marks Estonian Independence Day, marking 98 years since the Estonian Declaration of Independence. The occasion is marked annually with the presidential reception and a concert, held in different cities each year. The president gives a speech, which is broadcast live on television, and viewers also enjoy the ironically named “Penguin Parade,” of the who’s who of Estonia arriving at the reception. Happy Independence Day!

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

Contents 3 Editorial

February Highlights

restaurants

01 ANNUAL SKI MARATHON

4-5 Restaurants: Tai Boh Lautanen Nurri Cat Café Wine degustations at Le Chateau Restaurant News

The Tartu Marathon brings thousands of skiers to the hilly trails of southern Estonia. Now in its 44th year, the marathon will take place 21 February. The 63 km race starts at 9.00 from Otepää’s Tehvandi Stadium. The 31 km race starts at 12.20 from Arula.

02 FEASTING IN TARTU Fourteen Tartu restaurants take part in this tasty event that runs from 1-28 February. A three-course meal goes for 19€.

shopping

The Tallinn Motor Show takes place at the Saku Suurhall from 27-28 February. Look at different motorcycles and accessories, all under one roof! Outside, take part in a snowmobile competition.

04 WHO WILL REPRESENT ESTONIA IN STOCKHOLM? The Estonian contestant for Eurovision will be chosen on 5 March at the Saku Suurhall. The favourite will be voted by a jury and the audience. The Eesti Laul song competition gives artists a great opportunity to showcase their musical talents. Tickets are available from Piletilevi.

05 COLD SWIMMING COMPETITIONS

Photo: Tiit Mõtus

The Pirita Open Winter Swimming Competition will take place 26-27 February at the Pirita Olympic Sailing Centre. The programme will include the 50 metre freestyle and 25 metre breaststroke as well as the 1 km winter swimming masters races.

6 Beauty 8–9 Shopping 10 Nightlife 12-13 Otepää 14 Family fun 15 Events 16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Kristiana Lish Style: Kristiana Lish Make-up and hair: Aljona Shmeljova

FEBRUARY 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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03 MOTORCYCLES ON DISPLAY

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

RESTAURANT NEWS The long-running favourite Old Town Indian restaurant Elevant is the place to come for something a little different. Try wild boar or moose curry, along with different thalis. Vegetarians and vegans also have plenty to choose from. The first all-you-can-eat restaurant opened in Tallinn. Best Pizza Buffet costs 9.90 for adults, 5.90 for children 4-10 years old, and 3.90 for 1-3 year olds.For this price you can choose between salads, pasta, soup, chicken wings, pizza, and drink as much pop as you want. Adults can purchase alcoholic beverages, for example a 500ml beer in 2.90. The Lotte-themed children’s café Lottekohvik opens in February in the Mustamäe shopoing centre. In our last paper we told you about Kama. Their name has changed once again to KOPLI Restoran/Saal. Uus Kuus opened in the Old

Town and serves tranditional restaurant food from local ingredients. Four new restaurants opened in the area located between Rotermann City and Viru Keskus, among them a café with live music. The newest nightclub in the city goes by the name Club Butterfly. It’s located between Kaubamaja and Viru Keskus in the Melon shopping centre. Priit Toomitsa of the Teletorn Brasserie and Bar will be organising a special “Cosmic” dinner. A four-course dinner together with drinks costs 55. The next dinners will take place 19 February and 18 March. ■

Le Chateau’s sole in bearnaise sauce with spicy shrimp ceviche

A Perfect Pair

In February, guests can enjoy Spanish Campo Viejo wines

Monthly wine degustations at Le Chateau.

french TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, ANDREI CHERTKOV

Starting this month, restaurant Le Chateau in Tallinn’s Old Town

will be offering selected wines by the glass that are normally only available by the bottle. Let their knowledgeable and friendly staff help you choose your meal based on the wine. “Usually it goes the other way around, you choose your meal and then you pair the wine”, explains Marina Aboltõn, Marketing and Sales Manager at Le Chateau. “We want our guests to have the opportunity to try good wines by the glass from our wine cellar”.

The wines on offer change monthly. In February, guests can enjoy Spanish Campo Viejo wines. The Viura DOC (white Rioja) is a lovely light bodied white wine that works well as an aperitif, or enjoyed with some of Le Chateau’s fish dishes. We tried the salmon terrine with red caviar sauce. The refreshing white paired well with the flavourful terrine. Of the reds, Le Chateau is serving

one lighter-bodied red and one fuller-bodied. Both are Riojas, the Reserva works well with the duck confit, being on the lighter side and balancing with the richness of the duck. The Gran Reserva is an elegant full-bodied wine that is best served decanted. It is aged

two years in oak casks and then a further three years in the bottle in the cellar to round it off. It paired very well with the beef tenderloin in porcini sauce, as well as the sword-baked lamb with rosemary sauce and honey-roasted garlic. In March, we can look forward to two wines from French producer Gabriel Meffre Laurus. Both from Cotes du Rhone, the Blanc is made of 38 Viognier, 27 Roussanne, 20 Grenache, 10 Marsanne, 5 Bourboulence. Enjoyed with Le Chateau’s sole in bearnaise sauce with spicy shrimp ceviche, this combination will warm the coldest night. The Cotes du Rhone Villages AOP is 77 Grenache, 18 Syrah, 5 Mourvèdre and is suggested with the lamb and duck as well.

Monthly wine degustation specials will also reflect the season, so we can expect lighter bodied fruity wines for the warmer season. The specials will continue until 31 January 2017. ■

Location Le Chateau Restaurant Lai 19, Tallinn Old Town f2 --------------------Appetisers: €4.90–€12.50 Mains: €12.50–€22.5 0 Desserts: €3.00–€6.00 Wine by the glass: ----------

€4.00–€5.00 ------------

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Location Elevant, Vene 5, Tallinn Old Town h2 Best pizza buffet, Gonsiori 10, Tallinn b3 Lottekohvik, Tammsaare tee 104A, Tallinn KOPLI Restoran/Saal, Kopli 25, Tallinn a1 Uus Kuus, Uus 6,Tallinn Old Town g3 Club Butterfly, Estonia pst 1, Tallinn b2 Teletorni Restoran, Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

Tallinn's first all-you-can-eat buffet.

Coffee in the company of cats café TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Nurri café is located close to Tal-

linn’s Stockman on Tartu mantee on your way out to the airport. The café offers light fare and coffee, of course. Of the savoury dishes, try the caesar salad with chicken or shrimp. Pancakes are also a good choice with either savoury or sweet fillings. Try the mushroom or salmon soup. Children also have the option of pasta. There is a large selection of cakes. Among them you will find

two popular Estonian cakes, or as they are known there: Kirju kass and Kass Artur. The cats are of course the stars of the show. All of the cats come from the shelter. Cats are everywhere in the café: on window sills, in the children’s play area, on the bar… You u can take photos of the cats and d tpet them. Don’t worry, their litter boxes are located in anotherr room. The cats have their feeding time e

when food is brought out from m the kitchen. The staff will open n and close the doors for you so that at the cats don’t run out.

The café is open on work days from 12.00-19.30 and at weekends from 11.00-20.00. ■

Location Nurri Cat Café (kassikohvik), Tartu mnt 24, Tallinn b3. --------------------Salads €5.90–8.90 Pancakes €2.50–5.90 Cake €1.40–4.60 A fee of €5 is added to adult custom ers for supp ort for the cats . ---------------------

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

restaurants

Feel-good Favourites Six years and running strong, Lautanen caters to those arriving by sea.

pub TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Lautanen is often the first stop on the way in and on the way out of Tallinn. Lautanen, or table in English is a great success story of a family-run business. Located over two floors in the port area of Tallinn, it caters to a mainly Finnish clientele looking for good, fresh, simple dishes. And this is exactly what Lautanen does well. The collection of plates on display on the wall from regular visitors can atest to this. Anyone that has been to Tallinn will know that the number of places open early for breakfast are

few. Lautanen serves breakfast from 8.00-12.00 and offers warm, hearty dishes like an English-style breakfast. Breakfast sandwiches start at 3.80. Lautanen promises fast service, meaning dishes should take no longer than 5-10 minutes to prepare. The house specialties like the pepper beef or the Lautanen and Premium burgers are client favourites. The pepper beef, coated in freshlyy ground pepper is grilled and served with your choice of side. The burgers are juicy and you will certainly not go hungry. Portions are generous here! For something on the lighter side, the salmon salad with pieces off lightly grilled fish, vegetables,

and mixed greens was fresh and tasty. In summer, Lautanen offer guests a large terrace with music and free-wifi. Eat-in or takeaway. Service is always fast and friendly. ■

Lautanen promises fast and friendly service.

Location Lautanen Grill Baar Sadama 6 / Kai 5, Tallinn a2 --------------------Appetisers: €3.70–€4.70 Mains: €6.40–€18.90 Desserts: €2.00–€4.20 Special: Lunc h for two wi th a bottle of wine €39. ---------------------

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Exotic Flavours Tai Boh is a feast for the senses.

thai TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Opened at the end of last year, Tai Boh is the latest funky restau-

rant by the guys that brought you Manna La Roosa. While the latter focused on a contemporary menu merging international flavours, Tai Boh is an Asian fusion restaurant whose kitchen is run by Thai chef Khampan. Normally the words “Asian fusion” would be enough to make you run screaming for the hills, but this menu works. There are in fact a few different menus including a sushi menu and an allvegetarian menu that may even delight the palette of most carnivores. You’re going to want to try a bit of everything and for this there are two tasting platters. We, however, picked a couple of appetisers and mains to share. Don’t skip the Kong Sarong (deep fried prawns wrapped in egg noodles). They not only taste good, but are visually stunning. The chicken satay could have used a bit more grilling to get a nice char, but the satay sauce was good nevertheless. The appetisers are good for sharing, but the mains are plat-

ed more in the way of an individual meal. This does not stop you tasting a couple of bites from your dining companion’s plate. The chili prawns with vegetables actually have enough chili in them that they give off a bit of heat. The favourite dish of the evening was the beef in black pepper sauce. A piece of beef tenderloin was beautifully prepared in a rich and peppery sauce. If there iss still enough room for dessert, thee chocolate fondant or the coco-nut panna cotta are both good d options for the end of the meal. In addition to the varied menu,, the eclectic decor of Tai Boh can--

not go without being mentioned. Every corner of the dining room is filled with strange decor, retro seating, or an aquarium. Service was friendly, fun, yet professional.

Location Tai Boh, Mere pst 1, Tallinn a2 --------------------Appetisers: €6–17 Mains: €13–24 Dessert: €6–7 ---------------------

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The appetisers are good for sharing, but the mains are plated more in the way of an individual meal.

Photo: Tai Boh

The eclectic decor at Tai Boh is worth a visit alone.

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Make Your

Hair Shine

The Baltic Guide went to test the new KeyBond haircare system at thee Vanalinna Ilusalong. TEXT THE BALTIC GUIDE TEST GROUP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Some women are very concerned

about dry and damaged hair in winter that they just cover it up with hats and scarves. This is the reason hair needs extra care in winter, especially after colouring. Don’t worry, there is a solution at the Vanalinna Ilusalong with new products from Emsibeth KeyBond. The Baltic Guide went to try these out in the salon. The procedure began like any other. “The hair colour was mixed and a capsule of KeyBond was added to the mix. After, the colour was applied to the hair and I waited 40 minutes”, said our tester from The Baltic Guide. The difference between this and

regular colouring is that the colour is washed away with only clean water; no shampoo is used. About ten minutes afterwards, KeyBond conditioner was applied, which was also just rinsed with water. Why should you try KeyBond? It cares for the condition of the hair, protects and moisturises during the hair colouring process. After, hair is shiny and looks really good. This same procedure is great for bleaching and perms.

Before & After

The colour also lasts longer on the hair. And what were the results? “I’m really happy. My hair is truly very shiny, long after the colouring”. ■

The combined effects of honey and turmeric Turmeric and ginger are closely related. It is processed into a yel-

low powder and used as a spice, in particular as the base ingredient for curry. Turmeric has long been used in Asia as food, but also in medicine. Turmeric has been known to improve digestion and alleviate inflammation. It’s grown mainly in India but can be found in Asia and Africa as well. The powder that is produced from the root

goes into juice, capsules, or is added to butter and oil. CurcuMix, an Estonian product, combines three main natural components: honey, turmeric, and black pepper. Together they form a truly strong mixture. The product can be added to tea or coffee, or just as a snack a couple of times a day. You can find it in most health food stores. ■

Location Vanalinna Ilusalong Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

KeyBond cares for the condition of the hair, protects and moisturises during the hair colouring process

best collection of designer eyewear in Tallinn

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet!

Eyewear boutique

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Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest beer. Come and taste it.

+372 631 1871 viuu.ee

Telliskivi 60, Tallinn Telliskivi Creative City

shopping

Fast Telephone Repair

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

iTapsa opens their first shop in Tallinn. Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It’s happened to all of us, you’re

somewhere on vacation and your phone breaks. Where can you get it fixed quickly and cheaply? iTapsa has you covered. Most repairs are done in under an hour and all repairs come with a one year guarantee. Managing director Tapio Marjanen tells The Baltic Guide about possible expansion in Estonia after only a few months. “There is certainly demand for it in Tallinn”, he admits. iTapsa is located in the heart of Tallinn near the Radisson Blu Sky Hotell between Viru Keskus and Stockmann. As the name suggests, iTapsa deals with iPhone, as well as Samsung Galaxy, Lumia, and LG. iPad repair can take a little bit longer than with phones. If you’re in Tallinn on a short holiday, visit iTapsa for all your telephone repair needs. They are less expensive than other places, offering fast and reliable service. iTapsa is open Monday to Friday 09.00-19.00, and Saturday 10.00- 19.00. ■

iTapsa doesn't only deal with iPhone.

Location iTapsa, Maakri 19/21, Tallinn b2.

Most repairs are done in under an hour and all repairs come with a one year guarantee.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3

Calle Wines & Spirits

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Shop online or instore for some

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

of the best deals on wines and spirits in Tallinn. Calle is located in the Norde Centrum shopping centre close to the D Terminal at the Port of Tallinn. Calle imports

wines themselves meaning their selection is constantly growing. Their knowledgeable sommeliers are always happy to help. And of course the most convenient shopping experience is to place your order online first and then pick it up in store. Calle is

open Monday to Sunday 10.0020.00. ■

Location Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7, Tallinn a3

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shopping

Find everything you need for your pet.

PetCity Tallinn’s one-stop-shop for all your pet needs.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

PetCity is not your average pet cent-

re. While they offer everything you might need for your pet like food and accessories, it’s the extra services that make this centre one of a kind in Tallinn and in Scandinavia. First, PetCity has an instore veterinary clinic and groomers. After the renovations were completed at the end of January, the PetCity Clinic offers a wide range of medical services for pets from daily to intensive care, including emergency care, treatment and diagnostics of internal diseases, surgical procedures, dental care, check-ups, disease prevention and monitoring of the treatment

of long term conditions by a team of friendly and professional specialists and doctors. PetCity’s veterinarians also perform surgeries, which wasn’t possible in such a clinic in Estonia before. Expert groomers will have your pet looking better than ever after a visit. They use only the best equipment and natural ecological products like Derbe Natural Pet and Bio-Broom. In addition to grooming, your pet will enjoy a relaxing massage.

And that’s not all, if you’re going away and need somewhere for your pet to stay, PetCity has a pet hotel that can accommodate your pet while you’re away. You can be sure that your pet will receive the best care and exercise in the Royal Canin Arena while you’re away. In every kennel there are cameras, so you check in on your pet online whenever you like. Prices and more information can be found on their website: www.petcity.ee ■

PetCity also offers obedience training in their Royal Canin Arena.

Location

This 400 square metre training area can be rented out on an hourly basis.

Need help? Ask a helpful staff member.

Soon, the PetCity Clinic will be open 24/7.

PetCity Rannamõisa pet centre Rannamõisa tee 8, Tallinn

Pet City is not your average pet store.

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

A GUIDE TO

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Butterfly Lounge

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3

Most of the LGBT places in Tallinn are nightclubs, meaning they’re for the middle or the end of the night. But what can you do to start proceedings off? There are a number of options, actually. By far the best, for its entertainment singers and performers - at weekends and on special nights, and for its open, friendly atmosphere to all, is Butterfly Lounge. It’s been open for a long time, and in that time very little has changed about it, but you can still go in there and sit in a brightly-coloured, comfortable chair, sipping a well-made cocktail and watching the world go by. It’s also a great place to open the party, with quality food and smiling service. There is a sister club, Club Butterfly, across the street from Viru Keskus. It’s pretty new, but offers the same pastel-coloured positivity as Butterfly Lounge, though in a nightclub setting. It’s on Estonia Pst 1, and you can be sure of pop and dance music to make your weekend go bang, and the same attention-to-detail that makes Butterfly Lounge’s cock-

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Karaoke

The Oak Lounge

X-baar

Protest

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Põrgu

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

La Casa del Habano

t’s sometimes said that Tallinn doesn’t cater that well for the LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, trans) community, and, while it’s fair to say that the provision of bars and clubs specifically for anyone from that grouping is pretty thin on the ground, there is still great fun to be had. Let’s take a look at the best places for a night out in Tallinn if you’re LGBT and you want a night on the town.

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

TALLINN

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

GAY-FRIENDLY

Tapper

Clazz

Come to Butterfly Lounge for some of the best cocktails in Tallinn.

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

tails such a consistent pleasure. Manna La Roosa, just next door to Butterfly, is also an option - but I’m not a fan of the sniffy service or the snobbish elitism of the place. Butterfly is for everyone.

X-Baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

For a more personalised experience, you need to go to X-Baar, which preceded and has outlived other beloved establishments like Sauna Street’s Angel, and is Tallinn’s oldest gay bar. It’s a mission to find the door - you need to go through a car park, to what looks like the side entrance to an old building - but once you’re there, the fun starts. Each customer is given a coupon for a free drink, and although the party doesn’t usually get started here until around midnight, once it begins, the pace doesn’t let up.

There are two floors to X-Baar, the ground floor being the one with the largest bar, a small seating area, and a big dance floor opposite a video wall playing the promos to the songs the DJ is playing. Upstairs you will find a chilled spot for sitting and contemplating your night, where it is easy to talk at a respectable volume. As with every gay club, not all customers are LGBT - there are plenty of straight women who come to X-Baar because of the unthreatening, good-natured atmosphere. The truth is, whatever your orientation, this is a nofrills, no-trouble club where anyone can enjoy themselves. As an example of the community spirit that seems to exist here in contrast with some of Tallinn’s other clubs, I have never seen a fight at X-Baar, and I have never witnessed any theft problem people come here to have a good time, not for any other reason.

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

G-Punkt Pärnu Mnt 23, Tallinn b2

G-Punkt is the Kelis to X-Baar’s Beyonce, the club that is more subversive, and somehow less controlled than its bigger brother. This leads to plenty of latenight or early-morning hijinks, as this club is open pretty much after everything else in Tallinn has closed. As the final port-ofcall for fun, G-Punkt takes its role very seriously as a kind of liberated dystopia, where anything and everything can happen, pretty much unchecked. In summer it can get incredibly sweaty inside the club, due to a general lack of ventilation, though at this time of year that’s not a problem. Also be prepared: there are two poles on the dancefloor, and if you choose to swing around one of

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

them with your buddies, you will get attention, and at the time of night when G-Punkt is popular, no-one waits to ask before introducing themselves to you. This is, pure and simple, a place to come when you’re tired, but you feel a second wind and you want to use up all your energy on the dancefloor. Forget about customs and conventions, forget about the rum-and-cola stain on that new shirt, and just party into the morning. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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Restaurant & Trahter - Raekoja Plats 15 troika@troika.ee, +372 627 62 45

Cafe «TROIKA» - Mere pst.5 cafe@troika.ee, +372 631 37 65

Read articles online at THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

www.balticguide.ee

family

VISIT I OTEPÄÄ, Estonia’s Winter Capital

TEXT STUART GARLICK, KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

f you’re coming to Estonia, whether on holiday or a business trip, you might assume that, in the winter, it was better to stick to Tallinn and its cosy surroundings. However, the sheer majesty of a country that is bigger than Switzerland should convince you otherwise. One area of great beauty, which you can’t afford to miss, is Otepää and its neighbouring village, Pühajärve. Otepää is a picture-postcard little village with lovely walking routes all around, and a deep, dense forest in which to be lost with your thoughts. However the attention-grabbers for most tourists are Väike Munamägi, the second tallest hill in Estonia, and the tallest, Suur Munamägi. They are located about an hour’s drive south from Otepää. Whether you’re an experienced skier looking for some piste action in the Baltics, or a newbie wanting a hill that isn’t the Black Run on which to learn your craft, there’s a reason to visit the two Egg Hills, as

Skiing at Väike Munamägi.

Estonia is not completely flat.

Swimming at Pühajärve's pool is a mu

they are known in English. And even if winter sports are not your thing, south Estonia’s flatness means you can see for miles all around when you’re at the top. If you want a bit of a challenge have a go at the Kekkose Ski Trail (a 14 km run named in honour of the visit, from the then Finnish president Urho Kekkose’s visit to Kääriku to ski), one of the country’s most challenging cross-country trails.

y fun

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By the end you’re feeling great, but it wasn’t my scented-candle vision of a massage on holiday. ■

Recommended by locals: How to get there:

■ Tammuri Talu – Tammuri Farm is about as far away as you can get from

Kekkose Ski Trail (at Kääriku Leisure and Sports Centre) Nüpli Village, Otepää Parish, Valgamaa

ust on any Estonian travel bucket list. Nestling in deepest South Estonia,

we recommend taking a car to this underrated holiday resort, although it’s perfectly possible to go there by bus – just jump on the Tallinn to Tartu express, then take a connecting service to Pühajärve. We stayed in the Pühajärve Spa Hotel, a three-star destination which overlooks the enormous lake, which of course is completely frozen in winter, and, should you be there with kids, allows them to carry out their Queen Elsa fantasies to their heart’s content. Do you wanna build a snowman? No problem – snow is one natural resource there is plenty of. The spa’s rooftop café gives truly

spectacular panoramic views of the lake, the hills and surrounds. Ensconced in your forest kingdom, you’ll finally be able to forget all your daily working troubles. The food is pretty decent local fare, and certainly fills you up

before or after a long day’s strolling in the gorgeous countryside. There is a pub down below for simpler tastes and an a la carte restaurant on the main floor of the former manor house. The spa’s jewel is the outstanding swimming pool designed by one of Estonia’s master architects Andres Alver. The pools main structure is engineered wood glulam complemented with the use of locally produced birch plywood. Swimming there is certainly a must on any Estonian travel bucket list. In addition to the swimming pool there are also saunas, including an infra-red sauna guaranteed to leave you feeling refreshed and detoxed. There is a considerable list of treatment options, including a chocolate spread that sounds tasty enough to eat while it’s on your body. Beware the massage though – the standard package is a chiropractic massage, and had me wondering if the masseur would pull a joint out of its socket.

Forgot your skis? No proble, sales and rentals are available everywhere.

Pühajärve Spa Hotel Pühajärve, Valgamaa

■

We recommend taking a car, although it’s perfectly possible to go there by bus - just jump on the Tallinn to Tartu express, then take a connecting service to Otepää. www.tpilet.ee

■

There are train connections from Tallinn-Tartu-Palupera. Palupera is about 20 km from Otepää and from there you can take a taxi which should be no more than €20. Please note: most taxis do not accept card payment. Train tickets: www.elron.ee

■

Tallinn in Southern Estonia. This one man restaurant is owned by chef Erki Saar who takes groups by booking only, preparing creative meals and offering wine to match. Mäha village, Otepää, Valgamaa Anni Butiik – This is your one-stop-shop for local handicrafts and souvenirs. Beautiful knitted gloves and socks line the walls, along with other linens and textiles. Pühajärve tee 2, Otepää GMP Boutique Hotel – Book a stay or just come and enjoy a gourmet meal at their restaurant, voted among Estonia’s 50 Best. This boutique hotel offers spectacular views over Lake Pühajärve. Tennisevälja 1, Otepää Snow Tubing – Along with skiing, snow tubing is another reason to visit Otepää. There are a few places to go, like Ansomägi that boasts snowtubing runs as long as 400 metres. Tartu Marathon – Did you know that Otepää is the start for the annual Tartu Marathon? Thousands of cross-country skiiers gather here every February for one of the biggest ski events in Estonia.

Otepää Taxi: 1200

Picturesque views can be found everywhere in Southern Estonia.

Cross-country skiing is harder than it looks.

family fun

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Ronimisministeerium is a climber's paradise.

Climb, jump, play! Extra energy can be expelled indoors too and there is no shortage of places in Tallinn that are fun for the whole family. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Sweating out adventure! Muuv, an indoor activity centre is located in Viimsi keskus where you can look forward to an active day on trampolines, climbing nets, a foam pool, adventure trails, and swings. This adventure park is ideal for five to ten year olds. Muuv, Viimsi Adventure Land. Sõpruse tee 15, Viimsi. From the centre take bus 1A. Entrance €5.

Young Driver’s Dreamland At the Children’s Traffic Park, children can drive their own electric cars and learn the rules of the road. There are working traffic lights, signs, a petrol station and tunnel that make the experience as real life as possible. The centre is about 900 square metres and is located in Mustamäe. It’s ideal for three to ten year olds. Laste Liiklusmängukeskus, Kadaka tee 84A, Tallinn. Price per minute €0,25.

adventure trail. Laser tag takes place in a small town with music and smoke. Every participant gets a special vest and laser gun. Group bookings are also available. The adventure trail stands many metres above the ground. Those under 12 years old can only use the trails with an adult. You can try a Segway at Megazone, or a rally simulator.

Don’t forget these fun attractions either! ■ Seaplane Harbour

(Lennusadam), Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn. ■ TV Tower (Teletorn), Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn. ■ Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum), Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. ■ Energy Discovery Centre (Energia Avastuskeskus), Põhja pst. 29, Tallinn a2

Megazone, Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn c4. Lasertag on weekdays €5, weekends €6. Indoor playground €15. Fun at Skypark!

A Jumper’s Favourite Places Skypark offers a 250 square metres area of trampolines where there are 23 different trampolines. In addition to the trampolines there is a climbing castle, foam pool, sumo wrestler costumes, games, and more. Those six and under can only use the trampolines under the supervision of a parent. The other large trampoline centre is Zelluloos, with a 300 square metres area of trampolines, labyrinths, and more! ■

and more experienced climbers. This climbing centre specialises in climbing without ropes. There is a soft floor and climbers must follow the rules. Those under 14 years old can only climb with their parents. Ronimisministeerium, Tartu mnt 80E, Tallinn c4. Tickets €8, under 14 years €4.

Climbing without Ropes

Laser tag and adventures at great heights

Ronimisministeerium (Ministry of Climbing) is a climber’s paradise located in the Zelluloos centre. It’s great for both beginners

Megazone is about 1000 square metres in size and the place to come for indoor entertainment. Try your hand at laser tag or an

The Seaplane Harbour is fun for the whole family.

Skypark, Pärnu mnt. 139E, Tallinn. Day ticket €7.50. Zelluloos Trampoline Centre (Zelluloosi Batuudikeskus), Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn c4. Ticket €6.

events

■ Guided Tours of the Opera House

■ Tourest 2016

This year, pre-performance guided tours of the opera house Estonia will take place on Saturdays at 17.30. The tours offer insight into what goes on behind the scenes at the opera before a performance. Highlights can include a walk out onto the Main Stage, a visit to the costume workshop or the scenepainting room. You may even meet one of the performers. The tours will cover information about the architecture of the building, opera and ballet. Note: Tours only take place on days when there are planned performances.

Tourest is the oldest and largest tourism fair in the Baltics. This is an event not to be missed if you’re looking for a great overview of what the Estonian tourism sector has to offer. The programme includes an interactive show on the main stage, as well as professional seminars for those involved in the industry.

National Opera Estonia, Estonia pst 4, Tallinn b2 Upcoming dates: 6, 13, 27 February; 5, 12, 19 March

12-14 February, Eesti Näituste messikeskus

The Fascinating Human Body The Estonian Healthcare Museum reveals the darkest secrets of the body. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

This exhibit goes into so many details about the human body

that you may not even notice a few hours pass by. This permanent exhibit is called “A Heart to Heart About Your Body”. The different parts of the body, the senses, and organs are displayed in different rooms. The first hall introduces bones and muscles, where you can also test your posture. One of the things that makes this museum great is that you can touch many of the components of the exhibits, giving an interactive experience. It may be a bit surprising to learn that in the corner stands an embalmed man. With the help of this new technology, people can learn about him for generations to come. There are also many other real things on display. The next rooms look at the brain and the different senses. Did you know that a person can

Luisa Omielan “Am I Right Ladies?!” If you’re looking to laugh this month, look no further than the upcoming funny feel-good show “Am I Right Ladies?!” by Luisa Omielan. After great reception and amazing feedback from her debut show in Tallinn is 2013, she’s back from the UK with a celebration of womanhood that “comes from a happy place – and she’s not going to let anyone else’s issues take a dump on that”. 11 February, 20.00, Apollo Solaris Kino Tickets are €12 and are available from Piletilevi.

Estonian Slopestyle Open 2016 This is the biggest snowboarding event in Estonia. The first day includes open training, the opening ceremony and the “Welcome & Warm Up Party”. The second day heats up with the men’s final and the official opening of the Kiviõli Ski Centre with live performances and music. The third day finishes with the women’s and junior finals, as well as the closing ceremony. 12-14 February, Kiviõli, Kiviõli Seikluskeskus

Alutaguse Marathon This classic style marathon is part of the Estoloppet series and offers distances of 20 and 40 km. The race attracts skiers from both Estonia and abroad and the tracks cross the Kurtna Lakes, Estonia’s largest lake system. 13 February Vasavere küla, Alutaguse Puhke- ja Spordikeskus

Many of the exhibits are interactive.

detect 10,000 different smells? The are bottles to smell where you can test yourself to see how many smells you can name. There are also Soviet-era medical instruments on display, along with diapers, pacifiers and other bits and pieces. Learn about pregnancy and feel what a 7 kg belly feels like to wear. Learn about human sexuality and the orgasm, or watch a sexed video from 1987.

Upstairs, the temporary exhibit “Future Food” uses photographs to portray problems in food sustainability around the world. The exhibit runs until 28 February. ■

Location The Estonian Health Care Museum (Eesti Tervisehoiu Muuseum) Lai 30, Tallinn Old Town g2

The Estonian Health Care Museum looks at human anatomy and physiology.

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Photo: Slopestyle Open

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sightseeing

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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum

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Leili Muuga (1922) Preparations for Song Festival. 1956 Art Museum of Estonia

Compelling New Exhibits at Estonia’s Top Art Museum TEXT BART PUSHAW, PHOTOS KUMU

n 22 February, KUMU Art Museum is reopening its Soviet wing of its permanent exhibition space, which focuses on Estonian art produced between 1940 and 1991. KUMU curators are reconceptualising understanding of what artists in Estonia made during the Soviet occupation for the first time since KUMU opened its doors to the public in 2006. This change is a welcome and fresh take on Soviet culture in Estonia, reflected in the new name of the display. Previously titled “Difficult Choices”, the display will now go under the name “Conflicts and Adaptations”, reflecting the multiple and contradictory roles artists played throughout the Soviet period, rather than imposing a single grand narrative. Come see perennial favourites and outstanding works by Jüri Arrak, Malle Leis, Ilmar Malin and others in a new light! The new Soviet display opens on 16 February 2016.

KUMU’s most important winter show in the Large Hall (Suur saal) continues throughout the end of February. The exhibition “Ryoji Ikeda: Supersymmetry” was recently chosen as one of the best exhibitions of 2015. The environment Ikeda creates is expanding and immersive, and his engagement with particle physics fosters a transformative space that must be seen, heard, felt and experienced to understand! Do not miss this powerful show!

romanticised, and presented in a palpable, popular way! ■ The exhibition remains open until 1 May 2016.

Location KUMU: Art Museum of Estonia Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn

The show continues until 28 February 2016.

A new exhibition which opened at KUMU in late January examines the fascinating relationship between Impressionist painting and Stalinist ideology. “Romantic and Progressive: Stalinist Impressionism in the Painting of the Baltic States in the 1940s and 1950s” looks at the strange and compelling combination of hard, dictatorial politics and the transformation of the soft, warm modernism of Baltic “Impressionist” painters. Come see what is at stake when Soviet cultural policies are idealised and

Ryoji Ikeda (1966) supersymmetry. 2014 Audiovisual installation Photo by Ryuichi Maruo

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ FFEEBBRRUUAARRYY 22001166

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala

Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

4 7 5

J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Looga Mustjõe

Linnahall Port

KADRIORG

Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nisu

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Vineeri

Tihase Tedre

Karikakra

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Airport

KRISTIINE

Sinilille

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja

Sinilille

Majaka põik

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

Where to buy

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Kaja

Szolnok

■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ FFEEBBRRUUAARRYY 22001166

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

Tugimaantee

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Nootamaa

HANKO

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0 10 Major 10 Estonian Towns

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Siili

P.Kerese

DISTANCES) #

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Lehe

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Akadeemia

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26Ë&#x161;00'

27Ë&#x161;00'

ÂŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

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