The Baltic Guide ENG May 2013

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

m a y 2 0 13

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Milow live in Tallinn Special summer travel guide TOP 10 historical attractions

Health & Beauty

Estonia's best spas, waterparks, and saunas

WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN TARTU MNT 18,TALLINN • www.contmoda.ee Tel. +372 6 620 232 • Open Mon-Fri 10-19, Sat 10-17

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina.

Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn HOW TO GET HERE:

You can take buses PARKING: 34A, 38, and 49 (stop The TV Tower "Teletorn"), or the City parking lot has 5 Tour bus. Our premises places for tourist are handicap buses and 60 accessible. places for cars.

Reservations: +372 58150020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23

3

editorial

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m ay 2 0 1 3

Contents about Estonia

Summer is almost here!

T

he Estonian winter hibernation period is officially over!

Patios and terraces are opening up again, hopeful warm weather lovers are sitting in warm coats on patios in the sun in the Town Hall Square, and seasonal sights are open for business once again.

This year, the lighthouse on the island of Kihnu opens its doors to visitors for the first time in 17 years. The lighthouse will be open in July and August for visitors who wish to admire the sunset over the Baltic Sea. It is one of the four last remaining cast iron lighthouses that remain on Estonian beaches. Built in 1865, it stands 31 metres above sea-level. Kihnu is the largest island in

Area: 45,227 km².

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

the Gulf of Riga, and the seventh largest island in Estonia.

Plan your trip to Kihnu and other fascinating parts of Estonia with The Baltic Guide’s special summer issue. This year it comes in the form of a pull-out guide in the centrefold of this paper. The special summer travel issue gives an overview of different parts of Estonia and the islands. This is all you need to plan your Estonian vacation outside of Tallinn! For those staying for a shorter time, the May issue of the Baltic Guide is packed with all the latest info about restaurants, shopping, museums, and more!

Happy travels!

3 editorial 4-5 transport 6 May events 8 beauty 10-11 restaurants 13-21 special summer travel guide 22 museum 27-30 maps and information

Kristina Lupp Editor-in chief

13-21

May TOP 5

summer travel guide

01 Music on Estonian shores

Western Estonia & the Islands Northern Estonia Southern Estonia Tartu

The concert series Kaunid Konserdid Käsmus brings some of Estonia’s top musicians to the small town of Käsmu. The concert series takes place 2-13 June and will include Raimond Valgre’s 100th anniversary jubilee concert with Ivo Linna and Hanna-Liina Võsa, as well as Svjata Vatra.

02 Ballet in Eastern Estonia The hightlight of this year’s Jõhvi Ballet Festival (10-12 May) will be the Moscow Classical Ballet Theatre. Natalia Kastkinan and Vladimir Vassiljevi will perform the ballet “Creation of the World” on May 11. Top dancers from Estonian ballet schools will dance on May 12 for the Children’s Ballet Gala.

16-17

night life

03 Night at the museum On Museum Night, May 18 (Muuseumiöö), most of Estonia’s museums will be open from 18.00-23.00 and entrance to many museums will be free.

Odd Hugo Milow Mad Murphy's

04 Open-air cinema

05 Dingo Dingo will rock the nightclub Panoraam, May 18 in Tallinn. This legendary Finnish band is popular in Estonia too; so don’t be surprised if the audience sings along!

Pick up your free copy at:

M AY 2 0 1 3

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments n We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Elisa Ritsing tel +372 58 50 2473

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Inna Zuk Stylist: Zenja Fokin We thank: Tallink Aqua Spa

Follow us on

The roof-top cinema (Katusekino) atop Viru shopping Centre re-opens in May. Watch new and classic films, as well as documentaries under the open sky, and enjoy a beautiful view over Tallinn. Enjoy a warm snack from the café too!

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transport

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m ay 2 0 1 3 tram routes

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

11 22 KOPLI

HEALTHY FRESH FAST

KALAMAJA

PELGURANNA

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION

TICKETS AND ROUTES

VIRU

from

4,90 €

11 3 3

OLD TOWN

Non-residents and tourists can purchase a ticket for 1.60€ from theMERIMETSA driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And don’t forget to validate your ticket. You can also purchase a smartcard. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferable. Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card. The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.

PASTA & PIZZA

PORT A, B terminals D terminal

SIKUPILLI VEERENNI BUS

STATION

AIRPORT

3 4 4 3 TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

KALAMAJA

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!

FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 29

PELGULINN

ROCCA AL MARE

PORT

KADRIORG

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

2 4 2 4 ÜLEMISTE

Further information on routes and timetables: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

VEERENNI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee

■ Transport n BY TRAIN:

n BY BUS:

Restaurant/Pub Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee From the bus station to the city: tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

n BY SEA:

From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

TO/FROM HELSINKI

Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee

TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG

St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

Train Station (Balti jaam)Toompuistee 37, Tallinn From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee

n BY AIR:

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K. www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng FAST CLASS By Copterline – www. copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.

All tobacco products must display health warnings. In their absence, the following RULES APPLIES:

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Pirated materials are prohibited.

Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

■ Airport and Port Transfers Getting to the port:

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The Mõigu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab.

The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€.

Free Bus from the Port

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km.

The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€

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t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m ay 2 0 1 3

Hire a car

INDIAN RESTAURANT Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.

Excellent prices

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town) Saia

Irish coffee 4€ • Vodka 2€

rim

Dunkri

Raek oja

u tur

Pepper Steak 13.90€ • South Indian chicken curry 8€

Town Hall Square

e

Apte

egi

eh

a Van

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ • Grilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

g

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www. mnt.ee.

Mündi

House Wine 2.90€ • Appetisers 2€

Pikk

Vo o

k an

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ • Beer 2.50€

Kinga

Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Ven e

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

Kullassep a

transport

kael

Viru

Useful Information No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: n Blood alcohol level must be 0. n Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. n The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

n All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. n In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. n Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

Important Phone Numbers: I I S I 1 1 0110, , P EEMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 h) 4 H).

PU H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O LPOLICE USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Here is an accident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

There is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Where is the car repair? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Parking in Tallinn The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase.

Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20€. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64€, with

the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Please read the signs carefully.

The first 15 minutes are free at: n Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays. n City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays. n Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

n For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE Sepa

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver Maleva does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay.

If KOPLI you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make Angerja Sirbi date of note of the car registration (KOPLI K.) number, Telliskivi journey, and the 1name2of the taxiSitsi company.

PORT/HABOUR

“Volta”

Train Station RANNAMÄE TEE

Children’s Menu Available

Schnitzel Haus • Open Sun-Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-02 Rüütli 28/30, Old Town • Tel +372 6 450 059 • www.schnitzelhaus.ee

■ Tallinn Taxis n Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels…

Always up to 500g

VIRU AHTRI OLD SQUARE Viru hotell TOWN

NARVA MNT.

n If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to:Baltijaam tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee.

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

At Liisu’s May Offer

J.Poskameat dishes Põhja pst. 2 roasted Order

1

3

and ask 2 Irish coffees KADRIORG for free. (NARVA MNT.)

Linnahall Mere pst.

(9.60€ value) L.Koidula n I t pays to be careful when choosESTONIA Stockmann GONSIORI Vabaduse ing a taxi, because some companies F.R.Kreutzwaldi Viru PST. Restaurant Liisu Juures TARTU MNT. n From the airport to the city cen- väljak have much higher rates than others. ÜLEMISTE “Kosmos” LIIVALAIA tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€ Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear Hobu- Open everyday 10-23, JUHKENTALI (TARTU MNT.) with the following taxi companies: window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The jaama Vineeri Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, PÄRNU MNT. 2 4 Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso,Tallinnand Tallink minimum fee must be displayed on the price Paberi Väike Tallinn Väike Takso. These three taxi companies have a list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing Paala +372 6 441 983 Keskturg tel Majaka contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxiMajaka TONDI waiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue. meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Autobussijaam põik (PÄRNU MNT.) 3 4

“Kalev”

Lubja Sikupilli

Pae

Welcome!

may events

6 upcoming events n Xdream

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m ay 2 0 1 3

Photo: Toomas Volmer

n Tallinn Old Town Days

The Xdream adventure sports series comprises 4 events and involves a combination of cycling, canoeing, running/trekking and navigation with other additional challenges often added to this mix. The events take place in different parts of country, thus offering participants the chance to explore more of Estonia at the same time. The second event will take place in Iisaku in Eastern Estonia, the third (an overnight event) in and around Kärdla on the island of Hiiumaa.

Iisaku 9 June Kärdla 20/21 June www.xdream.ee/ace-xdream-uudised

Spring Fair

Vintage Tallinn

Estonian Open Air Museum

Flower Pavillion / Pirita tee 26

Welcome in spring at the Spring Fair at the Estonian Open Air Museum! Browse traditional handicrafts , food and more at this annual spring event.

This is the largest gathering of the best vintage businesses in Estonia. Browse clothes, shoes, furniture, records, and home wares. The fair will also feature a photo exhibition by Mats Õun and a cosy café.

www.evm.ee

upcoming summer concerts

The topic of this year’s festival is “Every tower has its story." This is a great opportunity for visitors to find out about the secrets of Tallinn's medieval towers and learn more about their history, architecture, and interior.

Rock Summer 25 15 June - Song Festival Grounds Green Day Jun 25 – Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Elton John 29 June - Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Õllesummer 3-6 July- Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Robbie Williams 20 August - Tallinn Song Festival Grounds

1-8 June www.vanalinnapaevad.ee

Tickets: www.piletilevi.ee

11

may

SEB Maijooks Tallinn Song Festival Grounds

18

may

A 7km run or walk for women only at the Song Festival Grounds in Tallinn.

www.jooks.ee

www.vintagetallinn.ee

Photo: Riina Varol

1

may

31st SEB Tartu Marathon

Museum Night 2013 Various locations

Otepää

Tartu Spring Days Tartu, Various locations Enjoy an interesting and thrilling cultural program, and entertainment, exciting for both students and visitors alike. This annual event brings together international and local students studying in Estonia.

Tartu Spring Days www.studentdays.ee/en

29April5 may

This marathon is one of the four events in the SEB Tartu series. The 23 km race is the most popular of its kind in Estonia. You can also run the 10 km course, or cover either distance by Nordic walking. The 23 km race starts at Tehvandi Sports Centre in Otepää, and the 10 km event starts in Elva. The finish is at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva. Children's races will also be held.

12

www.tartumaraton.ee

Photo: Erki-Heiki Meerits

may

Photo: Ardo Säks

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

This annual event, held on a Saturday evening in May, marks the pan-European Museum Night. Museums and other institutions stay open later and offer free admission.

www.muuseum.ee/et/kuum/muuseumioo

18

may

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia May 15-16 – Spring farm days May 18 – Night of Museums Horse and cart rides, farm work of the past and more.

Village shop from the 1930s, traditional Estonian food at the inn Open daily at 10-20.

Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

www.balticguide.ee

Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

spa

8

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m ay 2 0 1 3

Spa Culture in Estonia tion treatments, but some offer medical treatments as well.

Medical spa treatment packages can include a doctor's consultation and therapeutic treatments.

The first mud treatment facilities were opened in the 1820s. Local resorts developed quickly, especially Haapsalu and Narva-Jõesuu.

“Estonia has always been known for its healing mud,” says Aire Toffer, manager at the Estonian Spa Association. “It is unique. The Russian Imperial family visited frequently during the 19th

Text kristina lupp Photos Estonian SPA Association

Spas in Estonia are by no means a new phenomenon. The first spa dates back to 1824 in Kuresaare after curative sea mud was found.

The popularity of spas continued to grow and other spas offering curative mud treatments were built in Haapsalu and Narva-Jõesuu. Today there are hundreds of spas all over Estonia. Day spas are found in larger cities like Tallinn.

Medical spas offer doctors consultations and wellness spas let you relax. There are even some spas that encourage you to bring your children along for the waterpark and swimming pool, and offer procedures for children too.

A spa holiday in Estonia is relaxing and fun for the whole family!

Did you know that tourists have been coming to visit Estonian spas for years, especially for the healing properties of the therapeutic mud?

The popularity of Estonian spas continues to grow each year, especially among visitors. In fact, about ¾ of spa guests in 2010 were foreigners.

In every Estonian spa hotel you

will most likely find saunas, swimming facilities, as well as a long list of spa treatments – basically everything you need for a relaxing getaway. Since 2008, a classification system for Estonian Medical Spas has been put in place to ensure standardised quality, and the type of hotel. For example some spa hotels offer only relaxa-

Spas in Estonia

most importantly, it is relaxing.

Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet period. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas.

So how does it work exactly?

Freshwater therapeutic mud contains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is mild odour of rotten eggs. The treatment is performed usually as a wrap, where you lie down on a table on top of a blanket and are then covered in warm mud (41-45 C) and wrapped up.

While the mud does not feel particularly hot at first, after a while you begin to sweat. n

n Did you know? c e n t u r y, and tourists from Finland came in the 1930s for the healing mud in Estonia.”

Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood circulation, soothes sore muscles, but

There are many medical spas all around Estonia. These are spas that have received special licensing to provide outpatient care. This includes rehabilitation services like massage therapy and exercise therapy, as well as dietary consultations. For a full listing of medical spas in Estonia visit the Estonian Spa Association website: www.estonianspas.eu

Toila Spa Hotel, Ranna 12, Toila Meresuu Spa & Hotel, Aia 48 a, Narva-Jõesuu Aqva Hotel & Spa, Parkali 4, Rakvere Laulasmaa Spa, Puhkekodu tee 4, Laulasmaa Georg Ots Spa, Tori 2, Kuressaare Grand Rose Spa Hotel Tallinna 15, Kuressaare Estonia Rehabilitation Center A.H. Tammsaare pst. 4a, Pärnu Viiking Spa Hotel Sadama 15, Pärnu Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort Pühajärve 67406, Valgamaa Kubija Hotel Männiku 43a, Võru Viimi Spa Hotel Randvere tee 11, Viimsi Kalev Spa & Water Park Aia 18, Tallinn Old Town Pärnu Tervise Paradiis Side 14, Pärnu

Mud treatments are available at the following spas in Estonia: Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Ranna tee 2, Haapsalu Laine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, Haapsalu Tervis Medical Spa, Seedri 6, Pärnu Värska Spa Hotel Väike-Rõsna Village, Värska, Põlva

Relax for a day Or half a day. There is nothing wrong with skipping that walking tour for massage.

Day Spas A day spa is a great place to go for a quick treatment or to spend a relaxing afternoon. In recent years Tallinn has seen a boom in day spas, and it seems that everywhere you look you see one. This is by no means a bad thing! A day spa is all about relaxation and wellness.

Here you can come for things like chocolate body wraps, hot stone massage or just a simple traditional massage. Most of the day spas in Tallinn offer facials, manicures and pedicures, as well as waxing.

So why not try a body wrap followed by a pedicure. Many of the hotels also have day spas within their complexes. Whether in a hotel or in the Old Town, bookings are always recommended.

Day Spas in Tallinn n Enjoy a wide array of spa treatments as well as different types of

saunas and pools, including an outdoor pool open all year.

Aqua Spa (Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel) Sadama 11a, Tallinn n This spa is one of the best in the city. You are taken care of as soon as you walk in, given a robe and led to lounge chair to wait for your treatment. Enjoy a sauna or a dip in the jacuzzi too. It’s the perfect way to spend a relaxing afternoon with a few friends.

Babor Spa, Narva mnt 5, Tallinn n City Spa is one of the largest spas in the city. There is a fitness club, pool, and childcare facility.

Enjoy a wide variety of treatments to relax and unwind.

City Spa, Rävala pst 4, Tallinn n Enjoy a massage, facial and much more at this Old Town day spa. It has a very cosy and comforting atmosphere that is geared

towards individual treatments rather than groups.

Day Spa, Vana-Posti 4, Tallinn Old Town n This spa is the first spa in Estonia to offer ichthyotherapy, or fish therapy. Dozens of tiny fish swim in a bath around you to remove dead skin cells. Afterwards you are left feeling relaxed and your skin is soft.

Aloe Spa, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn n Enjoy a small pool, jacuzzi, steam bath, and sauna as well as a wide variety of massages at this luxury spa in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Elemis Spa, (Hotel Telegraaf ), Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town n This is another one of the larger spas in Tallinn. The complex has saunas, a salt chamber, pool, and solarium.

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn

n This unusual building was once a yachting centre, built for the 1980 Olympics. Today however, you can enjoy a wide variety of spa treatments, saunas, a small swimming pool and the beautiful surroundings of Pirita.

Pirita TOP Spa Hotel, Regati pst 1, Tallinn

n Located in the heart of the Old Town, guests will be pampered combining time-honoured techniques and modern spa technology.

Reval Day Spa, Pikk 7, Tallinn Old Town n

beauty

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Other types of saunas: n Salt sauna: The salt sauna is visited after sitting in the steam or Finnish sauna. Natural sea salt is then massaged into the skin and kept on for about 5-10 minutes, after which it is rinsed off with water. In Estonia, the salt sauna is heated to 70C. If you have any small cuts on your skin, this will sting.

The Estonian Sauna

n Steam Bath: Also known as a Turkish sauna, or hamam. This sauna is heated to lower a temperature of about 45C. The rooms are fitted with steam faucets that produce steam, which leave the room foggy, with high humidity levels.

The sauna is much more than a place to relax, it’s part of being Estonian.

Text kristina lupp Photos Andrei Chertkov

Saunas are an important part of Estonian culture. In fact, most Estonians have a sauna at their summer homes, or even in their apartments in the city. The sauna is a place to relax, boost your physical and emotional well being, de-stress, and restore your energy.

But most importantly, spend time with friends and family.

It’s hard to know exactly how far back sauna culture goes in Estonia. There is evidence that the some of the earliest saunas were pits dug into a slope on the ground.

There was a fireplace where stones were heated to a high temperature.

Water was then thrown on the stones to produce heat.

In southern Estonia, smoke saunas are regaining popularity.

Estonia is seeking UNESCO World Heritage Site status for this cultural ritual. A smoke sauna is found in the countryside and built into a slope. This small log cabin has a larger stove than the regular Finnish sauna and the benches are situated higher. The stove lets all

the smoke into the room, where meat and fish would be smoked.

Afterwards, the smoke is exhausted through a small window and then Estonians will go inside and bathe. These saunas were mostly replaced in the last century with chimney saunas or Finnish saunas.

A metal wood stove heated the basket of rocks and smoke was exhausted through a chimney.

Temperatures in the sauna are usually between 80-100C. Estonians will sit in the sauna (most always naked) and occasionally put water on the rocks to produce steam. In the summer, they will then jump into a lake or pond, which is usually located right outside the door and begin the process all over again. In winter, they roll around in the snow instead. n

n A few tips

Where to try it?

Get naked. Estonians rarely wear bathing suits in the sauna. Many spas will have separated men’s and women’s saunas. In homes, men and women will often go together. If unsure, just ask to avoid embarrassment. Bring a towel to sit on.

Most hotels in Tallinn offer sauna, but here are some of the more interesting ones.

CLUB 26 at the Radisosn Blu Hotel Olümpia This sauna certainly has the best view.

Sweat while enjoying a view of Tallinn from the 26th floor.

Liivalaia 33, Tallinn B3 www.club26.ee Kalma Saun This is Tallinn’s oldest bathhouse. There are separate women and men’s saunas as well as a swimming pool. Built in 1928, it doesn’t get much more historical than this.

Vana-Kalamaja 9a, Tallinn A1 www.kalmasaun.ee Saunamaa Want to try a traditional smoke sauna? Visit this sauna village in southern Estonia. Here you try different types of saunas, and decide for yourself, which is your favourite.

Võrumaa, Rõuge vald, Nogo küla www.saunamaa.ee

Heat rises. The top bench will be the hottest, the lower benches cooler. If it’s your first time, start on the bottom and work your way up.

A little water goes a long way. Scoop one or two ladle-fulls of water onto the rocks. The steam is produced instantaneously.

Whips. The most common whip or "viht" is made from birch branches, though some Estonians use oak, nettles, or even juniper branches. Once you are sweaty, take the branches that have been soaking in water in the sauna, and then gently swat yourself with it. It’s said to increase your circulation.

Beauty creams good enough to eat The organic tomato facial treatment at Revali Ilusalong uses all natural ingredients.

Text kristina lupp Photos Andrei Chertkov

Revali Ilusalong has relocated to a quiet corner of Tallinn’s Old Town. The new location on Rüütli gives the salon a quiet and intimate atmosphere, as well as a beautiful view from the window.

The salon offers everything from manicure and pedicure to hair styling and massage.

The salon has just begun offering the Ella Bachè organic toma-

to facial treatment. This treatment works to reduce signs of fatigue and stress on the face. It also helps with dryness and improves skin’s elasticity, softening wrinkles and brightening the complexion.

What’s best about this treatment is that it is suitable for every age and every skin type in need of an energy and vitamin boost.

The French Ella Bachè line guarantees the products used for this facial treatment are 100% natural.

The creams contain organic tomato, apricot blossom, orange, carrot, blackberry, grape, lemongrass extract, seaweed, and rice flour, just to name a few.

The facial treatment begins with a light body massage, helping the client to release the stress of the day. Then the face is scrubbed with an almond exfoliating cream.

The treatment ends with a rubberlike mask. After it has hardened, it is pulled off and skin imme-

diately feels lighter and refreshed.

Your skin has a beautiful glow, looking vibrant and toned. The treatment lasts 60 minutes, and because of its natural ingredients you can enjoy it once a week for five weeks. n

Location Rüütli 28/30, Tallinn www.revaliilusalong.ee

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restaurants

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n Kohvik Kohalik

n Maru

Koidu 82, Tallinn www.kohalik.ee

Vesilennuki tänav 6, Tallinn www.lennusadam.eu

Now that the weather is getting warmer, it’s time to start moving outside to find the best summer terraces.

You need look no further than Maru.

Maru is the restaurant located inside the Seaplane Harbour Museum that opened last year. The café-restaurant offers seasonal Nordic cuisine in a very unique setting overlooking the inside of the Seaplane Harbour Museum.

Opened at the end of last year, this café-restaurant is quickly gaining popularity among locals. They offer an à la carte menu, great tea and coffee to go along with their delicious cakes. Kohalik uses fresh local ingredients, and buy fresh fish daily from Pärnu’s fishermen.

Text kristina lupp Photos andrei chertkov, troika

tallinn's longest running restaurants

From French to Medieval cuisine, these restaurants have the recipe for success.

Gloria

Troika

Opened in 1937, this restaurant was once the grandest club in Tallinn. It has survived two occupations, and is still going strong under the management of chef Dimitri Demjanov. The elegant pre-war décor and impeccable service are reasons why Gloria is the restaurant of choice for visiting heads of state, and other important figures. The menu is a fine example of classic French cuisine, with little hints of Estonian and Russian influence.

This long-running Russian restaurant expanded last year with a new 40-seat banquet room to cater to the ever-growing demand for authentic Russian food, drink, and service. The walls and bright interior are luxurious, but in no way excessive. The authentic Russian food is well known at Troika and the service is theatrical. Waiters pour vodka shots from high up. The atmosphere is perfect for celebrations and large groups.

Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town H3 www.gloria.ee

Bonaparte celebrates its 15-year anniversary this year with a new chef, Vitali Tihhonov. Tihhonov has worked in some of the world’s

Tallinn’s medieval past keeps visitors coming year after year to learn about its history. Olde Hansa restaurant is situated in the site of the old central market. Get a taste for the city’s past, while dining in this truly unique restaurant.

Under the same roof, is the medieval shop Krambude, where you can buy medieval clothes and jewellery, along with dishes, spices, and of course the famous sweet almonds, that can always be smelled roasting outside.

Vana Turg 1, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.oldehansa.ee

Viru Väljak 2, Tallinn B2 www.steakhouse.ee

Restoran Maikrahv

Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.troika.ee

Bonaparte Olde Hansa

sauce. There are plenty of potato sides to choose from, but the garlic potatoes are be the best.

top restaurants, including Noma.

The menu is very well put together, and the tasting menu gives a good overview of the new dishes. Presentation is very eloborate. Many of the dishes come bubbling with dry ice or decorated with pine

branches. The waiters are skilled in trying to balance these elaborately placed dishes. Nevertheless, the taste of the food was spot on, especially the cep and truffle consommé.

Pikk 45, Tallinn Old Town G2 www.bonaparte.ee

Restoran Steakhouse Liivi Restoran Steakhouse Liivi celebrates its 18th anniversary this year.

What keeps them in business year after year –excellent steak, with just about any sauce or topping you can imagine. Our favourites are: the Onion Coat, which comes with a mountain of fried onions and bacon; and the Buffalo Steak, with green peppercorn

Maikrahv is another medieval themed restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town, but the menu is a little bit more contemporary. Enjoy filling meals inspired by traditional Estonian cuisine and international dishes. The staff is dressed up in medieval clothing and the restaurant is decorated lavishly. Large groups can enjoy banquet feasts fit for a king.

Raekoja plats 8, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.maikrahv.ee

restaurants

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n Book a Table

n New restaurant locations

www.vabalaud.ee

Kärme Küülik, Estonia pst 5, Tallinn, www.kyylik.ee Artemis Taverna, Harju 7, Tallinn, www.artemis.ee

One of the best pizza restaurants has moved!

Kärme Küülik closed its doors in February to move to a new location in Tallinn. While we haven’t has a chance to eat at the new restaurant, if it’s anywhere as good as before, you won’t be disappointed. Taking over Kärme Küülik’s old location in the Old Town is the Greek restaurant Artemis. Enjoy grilled meats and fresh salads, and hopefully a large terrace in the summer.

Similar to the OpenTable concept, Vabalaud offers users the possibility to book a table in a restaurant in Estonia from their website, and even take advantage of offers and discounts. While the English language section of the website is still growing, there is enough information there to make it useable.

A good drop A wine lover's guide to Tallinn's wine bars.

Enjoy an lazy afternoon in one of the most beautiful locations in Tallinn, while sipping a glass of wine.

Raekoja plats 8, Tallinn Old Town www.winelibrary.ee

Text kristina lupp Photos andrei chertkov

Pokaal The Kalamaja suburb of Tallinn is slowly filling up with some of the city’s trendiest restaurants and bars. The latest addition is Pokaal, a wine bar serving snacks and appetisers, and wine, of course!

DJs can be heard spinning on the weekends. A great place to spend an evening!

Paar Veini

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town www.paarveini.ee

Luscher & Matiesen The Luscher & Matiesen terrace on Toompea is a lovely place to

Rotermanni 5, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.korkork.ee

Gloria Veinipööning Veinikelder

Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn www.facebook.com/ PokaalVeinibaar

Laid-back and cool, Paar Veini offers a pleasant change to the typical wine bar. Here you find the youth of Tallinn, who create a cool and relaxed atmosphere: the antithesis to your typical yuppie wine bar. With affordable wines, it's no surprise that Paar Veini has become a hang out for locals and foreigners alike. Indeed, not only is it known for its wine, but also for the excellent yet inexpensive tapas dishes on the menu. As a result, the bar fills up quite quickly on a Friday or Saturday night so arrive early.

However, with good wine, good food and some excellent company, there's no reason for not getting a table and settling down for a night in this highly pleasing bar.

Live jazz bands play frequently.

The music events are promoted on their Facebook page.

spend a sunny afternoon or warm evening.

Believe it or not, Estonia had a wine culture during the first period of independence. The story starts in 1910 when Swiss-born Arnold Lüscher and Estonian Paul Matiesen decided to open a vodka factory in Moscow. Due to the October Revolution, the pair was forced to leave. In 1921, they decided to open a cellar in Matiesen’s hometown of Tallinn and began importing spirits into Estonia.

They imported such products as Barton & Guestier wines, Gordon’s Gin, Johnnie Walker whisky, and Edmond Dupuy cognac. Their business flourished and by 1929 their Toompea cellars held over 200,000 litres of wine.

In summer they open a terrace almost overlooking Tallinn in the upper part of the Old Town on Toompea. They serve both a

French white and a Spanish Red under their label, as well as a small snack menu. Follow their updates on Facebook to find out about upcoming live music events. Cash only.

Kohtu 12, Tallinn Map Code A2. www.matiesen.ee

Upscale Wine Library You don’t get more central that this, the Wine Library is located right on the Town Hall Square.

The wine list is of moderate length, covering both Old and New World wines. Hungry? They offer light meals and snacks. In the summer, the Wine Library opens a patio on the Town Hall Square.

With the upcoming summer season, a dark basement may be the last place you want to spend your evening, but on the occasional chilly night, get a bottle of wine and cosy up by the fire. Gloria Veinikelder has hundreds of wines to choose from. Thank goodness the knowledgeable staff are there to help you choose the appropriate bottle for your meal or snack.

The Wine Cellar is a wonderful addition to the legendary Gloria restaurant above. The wine bar’s menu is short but striking. Meat, fish, chicken, salads, soups, and starters have only a few options each, but what’s available is excellent.

Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town J2 www.gloria.ee

Kork Owned and operated by the oldest wine-importer in Estonia, Rein Kasela, Kork Wine Bar and Store is the perfect addition to the Rotermanni Centre. It is located just across from Juustukuningad.

The shop has a great selection of wines, ciders, and spirits. In the back of the store, facing the street is the wine bar. Here you can sit either inside or outside and sip on a glass of wine while enjoying a light snack. Their menu consists of bruschettas, salads, cheese, and meat platters ideal for sharing.

Blink and you’ll miss it; in fact most people don’t even know it’s here. Located above a burlesque club on the main street of Tallinn’s Old Town is Veinipööning. Open since 1998, Veinipööning has an extensive wine list, with helpful sommeliers to guide you. They also offer wine courses and degustations put on by visiting wine makers. Enjoy this quiet and cosy wine bar and escape the hustle and bustle from below.

Viru 18, Tallinn Old Town www.vinoteek.ee

Italian Marco Vino This tiny wine shop and bar is located on a quiet street of Tallinn’s Old Town. The wine bar offers a great selection of Italian wines at reasonable prices. The menu has both hot and cold appetisers, showcasing northern Italian culinary traditions. The owner, who is almost always in the shop, wants to chat and tell you about the wines. Stop in for a pre-dinner aperitivo or settle in for the night and enjoy a larger platter of Italian charcuterie and cheese.

Lai 26, Tallinn Old Town www.marcovino.ee n

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TOP 10

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learn about estonia's history Estonia has seen many rulers throughout its history, including Denmark, Sweden, Germany, and Russia.

Influence from these various ruling countries can be seen in architecture, the names of towns and villages, even in cuisine. We’ve compiled a list of the ten best attractions to give you an overview of Estonia’s rich cultural history.

1 Tallinn’s Old Town The Estonian medieval era began in 1227. Estonia was part of the territory of Old-Livland, divided between the Brothers of the Sword, two bishoprics, and the King of Denmark. Tallinn was part of the Hanseatic League, and this is evident in the architecture of the UNESCO protected Old Town. You will see old salt, tea, and flour warehouses that still have the attic doors with hooks outside, used to pull up goods. The Old Town still has its original street system, and most of the houses built in the 14th and 15th centuries still have their original form.

2 Naorootsi This beautiful coastal area in western Estonia is soaked with Swedish and Soviet history. Naorootsi is the settlement area of the Estonian Swedes who arrived in western Estonia and the islands in the 13th century. Swedes inhabited this area until 1939 when it became a Soviet border zone. Most of the Swedes left until the border zone disappeared at the end of the 1980s.

Noarootsi is a great place for hiking, sailing, hunting, and bird watching.

3 Vormsi Island Once inhabited by the coastal Swedes, this island was closed off during the Soviet occupation. Vormsi is located between the island of Hiiumaa and the western coast of Estonia. It is the country’s fourth largest island. Get a glimpse of the early history of the island at the 14th century church. Vormsi cemetery is the only place in Estonia with Celtic crosses from the 13th century. Because of its size, Vormsi is best toured by bicycle or on foot. If you do come by car, come with a full tank, as there are no petrol stations on the island. Take the ferry from Rohuküla port (108km from Tallinn); the journey takes about 45 minutes.

4 Tartu University One of the most well-known figures from the Swedish period is King Gustav II Adolf. He founded the University of Tartu in 1632. Tartu University is one of the oldest universities in Northern Europe and has produced many distinguished scientists and scholars such as Baltic German biologist Karl Ernst von Baer and Russian Juri Lotman (semiotics and culture). Tartu is still a student town and the best time to visit is in spring during the Student Spring Days (April 29 – May 5).

5 Baltic German Manor Houses The Estonian landscape is spotted with old manor houses, once owned by mainly Baltic German nobility. Many of the manors that you can see today in Estonia were built between 1760 and World War One, by Baltic German nobility. After Estonian agrarian land reform, the manors were used for schools, or just simply left empty, and the surrounding land divided into small peasant holdings.

During the Soviet period, the deterioration of these buildings continued further, as they were only appreciated for their practical value. Visit www.mois.ee for a comprehensive listing of manor houses across Estonia, including pictures and a short description.

6 Toompea Castle This majestic castle in Tallinn’s Old Town is one of Estonia’s oldest. It was built between the 13th-14th centuries, and has been conquered by Estonia’s various rulers. Historically, the area of Toompea was separate from the rest of the Old Town, inhabited by nobility and ruled by knights.

7 Nevsky Cathedral

9 The Old Believers

The Russian Orthodox Church has deep roots in Estonia. Located in Toompea, this Russian Orthodox Church will be hard to miss. This beautiful church is easily accessible and is a fine example of Russian Orthodox architecture.

In the 17th century, the Old Believers came to Estonia to avoid Russian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Russian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers living in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Village to learn more of their fascinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant.

8 Kuremäe Convent Located in eastern Estonia, near Narva, Kuremäe Convent is the only functioning Russian Orthodox nunnery in Estonia. It was established in 1891 and the convent gates are open to visitors. In ancient times, this area was considered a sacred place with a sacrificial spring located at the foot of the hill. Today the water is known for its healing powers.

10 Narva 1 Narva is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva river divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Fortress you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side.

Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost completely destroyed.

Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian Estonia, Soviet architecture, one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.

Summer in Estonia The best travel tips and events for 2013

14-15 Western Estonia 17 The Islands 18 Northern Estonia 19 Southern Estonia 21 Tartu

14 Western Estonia

TOP 5

01 Pärnu’s sandy beaches Estonia’s most popular beach is filled with thousands of sunbathers on a hot day.

02 Kihnu Island Kihnu makes an excellent day trip from the mainland. Points of interest on the island include a lighthouse, museum, and the locals. Kihnu has its own dialect and culture and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

03 Haapsalu Episcopal Castle A majestic castle rises from the centre of this small town. On the night of the full moon in August, the ghost of the White Lady can be seen from the window Baptistry.

04 Matsalu National Park One of Estonia’s most beautiful protected national parks is worth a visit in summer. The wetlands are best visited with a canoe or boat.

05 Museums When in Haapsalu be sure to visit the Estonian Swedish Museum and Railway Museum; and in Pärnu, wander through the History Museum and the Museum of New Art.

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Western Estonia’s spa towns Pärnu and Haapsalu connect old spa traditions with the sea.

Text and Photos Mikko Virta, Jarek Jõepera, EAS

It’s no coincidence that Pärnu has become Estonia’s favourite summer destination.

Spas were already in operation in the town in the 17th century. There is a long sandy beach and the shallow waters make it an ideal swimming spot for children. The warm sea waters keep vacationers coming back year after year. Pärnu is also filled with tall shady trees, lush green parks, and elegant 1930s functionalist architecture.

Pärnu’s beaches are filled from morning to night on hot days, with thousands of people soaking up the sun’s rays. For those that prefer a quieter beach, Audru Valgerand or Häädemeeste Beach are good options.

Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on

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narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea.

Be sure to visit the majestic Episcopal Castle in the centre of town.

The beloved Ilon Wikland children’s book series illustrator, Astrid Lindgren lived in Haapsalu as a child, where she no doubt found inspiration for her work. Ilon’s Wonderland is found in an old green wooden house where you can meet all the characters and wander through the interactive exhibits.

Haapsalu is the ideal quiet family destination with many playgrounds. n

How to get there: Buses to Pärnu from Tallinn depart almost hourly.

To drive, takes about two hours. The train journey from Tallinn to Pärnu takes about three hours. The car journey from Tallinn to Haapsalu takes under two hours. Buses depart for Haapsalu frequently.

Konse Motel & Caravan Park Located in Pärnu's city centre, on

• Accommodation for 60 in two, three, or four person rooms the banks of the Pärnu River Suur-Jõe 44a, Pärnu.

• Family rooms with kitchenette • Fenced parking lot Tel +372 53 435 092, • 65 caravan spaces with power supply (separate showers Fax +372 44 55 070, and WC) • Sauna with fireplace • Bicycle rental e-mail:info@konse.ee www.konse.ee

Distances:

TALLINN

n Tallinn—Pärnu 135 km n Tallinn—Haapsalu 100 km Largest cities: n Pärnu: 43,000 inhabitants n Haapsalu: 11,000 inhabitants n Lihula: 2,500 inhabitants

HAAPSALU LIHULA PÄRNU

KIHNU

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Western Estonia's Islands

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Tranquility, nature, and an old world atmosphere

TOP 5 01 Folk Culture Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu.

Estonia’s islands offer tourists everything they need for a relaxing break.

Text Jukka Arponen, photos jarek jõepera, Graham Mitchell, toomas tuul, www.visitsaaremaa.ee

02 Nature Estonia’s islands are home to many interesting bird, plant, and animal species.

You will find wild boar and deer, majestic eagles, and different types of orchids. Bird watching can be done on every island, all year round, but their migration period is the most spectacular.

03 Lighthouses Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists.

Anyone looking for a bustling city break should steer clear of Estonia’s islands. The fast-paced modern world has not reached the islands, yet. On the smaller islands, and Hiiumaa, there is a feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. And the largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn.

There is so much to see on Estonia’s islands, especially if you take a few extra days to see them all. Unique nature and preserved folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well. n

How to get there: n A ferry connects Saaremaa and Muhu (Virtsu Port) from Kuivastu. (Approximate journey time 30 minutes). Muhu is connected to Saaremaa by a bridge. The distance between Kuivastu and Kuressaare is 75 km. n Ferries to Hiiumaa (Heltermaa Port) leave from the Rohuküla Port. (Approximate journey time 90 minutes). n A regular ferry runs between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa from the towns of Triigi and Sõru, respectively. (Approximate journey time 75 minutes). n Ferry schedules, and ticket sales can be found at: www.tuulelaevad.ee. n Vormsi is accessible by a ferry that runs between the ports of Rohuküla and Sviby. n The ferry from Pärnu to Kihnu takes about 2.5 hours, where as the journey from Munalaiu to Kihnu is about an hour. n Ferries to Ruhnu leave from Munalaiu and Roomassaare port on Saaremaa.

04 Thatched Roofs and Windmills Thatched roof houses can be seen on Estonian islands. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof buildings, including a museum. The windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places.

05 Kuressaare Celebrates 450 Years The main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year.

17

Distances: n Tallinn–Virtsu 135 km n Tallinn–Rohuküla 110 km n Tallinn–Munalaiu 165 km Western Estonia’s largest islands: n Saaremaa: Approximate area 2 670 km², Approximately 40,000 inhabitants. n Hiiumaa: Approximate area 1 000 km², Approximately 10,000 inhabitants. n Muhu: Approximate area 200 km², Under 2,000 inhabitants. n Vormsi: Approximate area 93 km², 400 inhabitants. n Kihnu: Approximate area 17 km², 500 inhabitants. n Ruhnu: Approximate area 11 km², Under 100 inhabitants.

TALLINN

KÄRDLA

Vormsi

Hiiumaa Muhu Saaremaa KURESSAARI Kihnu

Ruhnu

18 Northern Estonia

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TOP 5

Northern Estonia Rich in culture, natural beauty, and manor houses, northern Estonia offer visitors a little bit of everything.

Text Mikko Savikko Photos toomas tuul, jarek jõepera, jaak nilson, viru folk, eas

01 Three bodies of water North-eastern Estonia is bordered by three bodies of water: the country's largest lake, Peipsi Lake; Narva River, and the Gulf of Finland. The sands of the shores of Narva-Jõesuu and Peipsi Lake are the best in Estonia.

02 Limestone Banks Limestone banks or escarpments run along the northern coast of Estonia. The closest one to Tallinn is in Türisalu. The highest are in Ida-Virumaa in the area of Ontika.

North-eastern Estonia is mainly Russian speaking, and is where most of Estonia’s energy comes from.

Tourism has developed quickly over the last few years, and there is so much to see and do east of Tallinn, from the manor house hotel in Lahemaa to the summer destination town of Narva-Jõesuu.

Travelling through the north-eastern part of Estonia, it’s difficult not to notice the differences in culture, language, architecture, and nature. The town of Sillamäe was closed during the Soviet period, but today it shows the visitor excellent examp-

les of Stalinist architecture. Nearby is Sinimäe, which has been fought over, over the years.

When driving east of Tallinn take the coastal road, which will offer beautiful views over the sea. n

How to get there: Trains depart from Tallinn to Rakvere, twice daily, and once daily to Jõhvi and Narva. Travel time between Tallinn and Narva is about three and a half hours. The train line splits in the town of Tapa and heads towards Tartu. Heading west from Tallinn, a train connects to Paldiski nine times daily. Bus service is available to all destinations mentioned above.

03 Lahemaa National Park and Manor Houses Since the Soviet period this national park has been a favourite destination for families.

There are three manor house hotels nearby, Vihula Manor being the one that has grown in popularity over the last few years.

04 Viru Folk and Kaunid Kontserdid Summer music festivals and concerts begin in the small town of Käsmu at the beginning of the summer, and end in August with the Viru Folk Festival.

05 Rakvere Lääne-Virumaa’s most interesting cultural city has grown over the last few years to make it a truly fascinating tourist destination. A medieval castle is among the noteworthy sites.

Distances: n Tallinn—Rakvere 99 km n Tallinn—Jõhvi 165 km n Tallinn—Narva 211 km n Tallinn—Mustvee 173 km n Narva—Mustvee 119 km n Tallinn—Paldiski 49 km Largest cities: n Narva: 65,500 inhabitants n Kohtla-Järve: 37,200 inhabitants n Sillamäe: 16,000 inhabitants n Rakvere: 16,600 inhabitants

PALDISKI

KOHTLA-JÄRVE TALLINN RAKVERE

JÕHVi

MUSTVEE

NARVA

Southern Estonia 19

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TOP 5

Stunning Landscapes

01 Püha müristus!

and ancient traditions make southern Estonia truly unique

Is the theme of this year’s Viljandi XXI Folk Festival (25-28 July), meaning “Holy commotion” in English. It introduces different celebration traditions from Estonia, as well as elsewhere in the world. People of all ages will flock to towards Viljandi to enjoy the music and the festive spirit.

Text Mikko Savikko, Photos toomas tuul, urmas volmer, eas

02 The Seto Kingdom On the third day of August, you are invited to the XX Seto Kingdom in Luhamaa.

During the day the best Seto craftsmen from different trades will be chosen and the next “sootska” or king will be chosen for the upcoming year.

The area that now makes up Southern Estonia was once part of Latvia. The Russian Petseri County, Võrumaa, and the Seto community in Põlvamaa, are also points of interest. A distinct dialect can be heard in Võrumaa. For example the word "keel," meaning language in Estonia, is pronounced "kiil" in the Võru dialect. It is particularly noticeable in the written language.

The inhabitants of Mulgimaa, the area outside of Viljandi, are known as “Mulks.”

The Estonian president, Toomas Hendrik

Ilves is from this area. This region has some of the best farmlands in the country.

It is worth becoming acquainted with southern Estonia’s history, and the surrounding landscapes are beautiful. Tall spruce trees, large oaks, deep lakes and rolling hills make up the landscape. During the summer be sure to visit one of the many festivals taking place in the area. n

How to get there: Take the train from Tallinn to Valga, and then from there, to Viljandi. Trains leave twice daily. A bus service to Viljandi runs almost hourly. Buses leave for Võru and Valga seven times daily.

Distances: 03 Püha V

TALLINN

n Tallinn – Viljandi 159 km n Tallinn – Võru 253 km n Tallinn – Valga 267 km n Viljandi – Valga 88 km n Viljandi – Võru 124 km n Tallinn – Põlva 231 km n Võru – Põlva 25 km

… Or the towns of southern Estonia. Valga’s neighbour is Valka in Latvia, residents of Võru speak their own language, and Viljandi’s history dates back to the 11th century. The centre of the Seto community can be found in Värska.

04 Soomaa Soomaa National Park offers hikers and paddlers many challenging routes.

Culture enthusiasts can head towards Hüpassaar for a sunrise concert on Midsummer’s Day.

VILJANDI PÕLVA

Largest cities: n Viljandi 19,900 inhabitants n Võru 14,300 inhabitants n Valga 13,600 inhabitants n Põlva 6,500 inhabitants

VALGA

VÕRU

Italian

Restaurant and Pizzeria Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

05 Sand Dunes Sand dunes are dug out from the Ahja River that runs through Taevaskoda near Põlva, but the Härma walls made by the Piusa River near Meremäe are even taller.

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs.

- Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven.

- Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth.

- Located in the heart of Tartu.

- A cosy summer terrace.

- WiFi Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Cultural Summer As the weather warms up, different events can be seen on the streets of Tartu. The programme offers something for everyone for babies and the elderly, sports enthusiasts and artists.

MAY (May-September 2013) Tower Music (Tornimuusika)

Every Tuesday night this summer, listen to exclusive concerts (up to 50 listeners) in the tower of the Tartu Jaani Church. Folk, jazz, modern classical - each concert is different. www.tornimuusika.ee

12.5.13 SEB 31st Tartu Marathon (Tartu Jooksumaraton)

The 23 km race is the most popular of its kind in Estonia. You can also run the 10 km course, or cover either distance by Nordic walking. The 23 km race starts at Tehvandi Sports Centre in Otepää, and the 10 km starts in Elva. The finish is at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva. Children's races will also be held. www.tartumaraton.ee

15.–19.5.13 Festival RegiÖÖ

“RegiÖÖ“ is an international archaic arts festival. The festival involves songs and dances in which the audience joins in. Test your skills at the performing contest “Improvisation in Heritage Music.” www.tartu.ee/regioo

JUNE 2.6. Tartu Cycling Rally (Tartu Rattaralli)

The Tartu Cycling Rally is the most popular road cycling event in neighbouring countries. In addition to professional cyclists, the 135 km and 60 km distances attract thousands of amateur sportsmen. The race starts and ends in the Tartu city centre and mostly takes place on winding South Estonian roads. Shorter distances are available for youngsters and children. www.tartumaraton.ee

8.6. Blues Festival (Bluusifestival EMAJÕE BLUUS 2013)

This festival is a collaboration between Tartu Blues Club and the Trehv Club. The main concerts of the festival will take place in the two rooms of the Trehv, Narva mnt 25a. The festival program has close to 20 concerts performed by Estonian and international artists. www.emajoebluus.com

6.–9.6. Estonian Composers Festival (Eesti Heliloojate Festival)

The Estonian Composers Festival brings a first-rate programme of contemporary Estonian music to listeners, and includes the premieres of around a dozen new works by Estonia’s younger composers. In addition to orchestral concerts and master classes, there will also be interdisciplinary street and club programmes. The heart of the festival is Tartu’s most dignified concert site, St John’s Church. www.composer.ee

JULY 19.7–21.7. Tartu Hanseatic Days (Lõhnavad Tartu Hansapäevad)

Hanseatic Days revive the idea of Tartu as an ancient trading town on the border of East and West. The festival heart is the big handicraft and farm product market in the city centre squares and park areas. Old techniques and customs are introduced; concerts, dance parties and exhibitions take place. www.hansapaevad.ee

18.–23.7. Festival “Glasperlenspiel” 2013 (Festival Klaaspärlimäng 2013)

The festival name has been inspired by the events of Hermann Hesse's novel of the same title. This hints that “Glasperlenspiel“ showcases musicians interpreting musical works from an unusual angle. The reputable festival focuses on original instruments, unusual collectives and connections with other arts and philosophy. www.klaasparlimang.com

AUGUST 1.–4.8 9th Wind Band Festival (9. rahvusvaheline puhkpillifestival ”Mürtsub pill”)

“Mürtsub pill“ is a cheerful international summer event filling Tartu’s city centre with diverse wind music. At the largest orchestral music festival in Estonia one can listen to children’s orchestras, dance to big band music and enjoy a grandiose concert by joint orchestras. www.potartu.ee

5.–10.8 Love Film Festival (Armastusfilmide festival tARTuFF)

For one week “tARTuFF“ will use cinematic language to speak about cultural tolerance and love in all of its forms. On tender August nights, this unique and popular open-air cinema will gather thousands of film fans in Town Hall Square. A colourful selection of art-house cinema, an insightful documentary programme with lectures, conversation tables and concerts – are free to everyone. www.tartuff.ee

25.8. 7th In-Line Skating Marathon (Tartu Rulluisumaraton)

The SEB Tartu In-Line Skating Marathon is the largest in-Line skating event in Scandinavia and the Baltics. The race starts in Jõgeva and finishes in Tartu. Distances are 48 and 19

tartu

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21 May News Estonian Air Check-in Charge Starting in August, Estonian Air will begin charging passengers for using their check-in service booths. The airline is struggling financially and in the process of restructuring. Estonian Air will charge 10€ for check-in at the airport, but web, mobile, and self-service checkin will remain free of charge. It’s not all bad news, the airline will give a 25% discount of the basic passenger fare for children between the ages of 2-11.

Tartu –

A city of good thoughts TOP 10 Sights 01 Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) A well-known fountain, numerous restaurants and cafés create a vibrant centre in Tartu. Museums and small shops can also be found nearby.

02 University of Tartu

Main Building (Tartu Ülikooli peamaja)

The university's main building is located right in the centre of the city.

Visit the main hall, art museum, and the historical detention chamber, where mischievous students were once punished for bad behaviour. For a virtual tour of the university visit: http://www4.ut.ee/virtuaaltuur/ 03 Toome Hill (Toomemägi) A towering ridge located in the centre of the city has a park area that is a favourite for jogging enthusiasts and dog walkers. Stop at the small café or kiss your sweetheart on Musimägi, where it is customary to bring a padlock to hang from the railing to express your love.

04 Supilinn "Soup Town" can be found near the city centre and is made up of authentic wooden houses. The best way to get acquainted with the area is to attend the annual spring festival, but even a leisurely walk through the neighbourhood will give you a good picture.

05 Festivals and Culture TartuFF, PÖFF, and DRAAMA. The city organises many festivals and events throughout the year. Enjoy film festivals and theatre performances.

During the spring and autumn, there are many student festivals as well.

06 Tartu Museums Tartu has many wonderful museums.

Be sure to visit the University of Tartu History Museum to become acquainted with the history of science and university education in Tartu from the 17th century to the present day. The

Old Observatory was once one of the most advanced astronomical research facilities in the world. Built in 18081810, the observatory was used until 1964 when researchers moved to the newly built observatory in Tõravere. A three-year renovation was completed in 2011, and the Old Observatory is open once again to visitors.

07 AHHAA The Science Centre AHHAA in Tartu wants to bring science to everyone through interactive exhibits, fun for the whole family. There are three main rooms: the hall of technology, the hall of nature, and the hall of temporary exhibits. The temporary exhibits change about every six months. AHHAA also has a planetarium and flight simulator.

Summer in Tartu is packed full of cultural events, for children and adults alike.

Text: Kristina Lupp, Photos: jaak nilson

Tartu’s history dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of the Tartu’s most well known landmarks include the Emajõgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distinguished columns, and of course the “kis-

sing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain.

It is the cradle of the Estonian Song Festival, Estonian theatre and the Estonian state. It is often referred to as the city of good thoughts; and no doubt, new ideas are sprawling and bubbling in the auditoriums, laboratories, and in the minds of students. Because of its dynamic development and innovative atmosphere, Tartu University is attracting an ever growing number of foreign students and researchers. n

08 Student Days Tartu’s city centre is taken over by students who put on entertaining cultural and sporting events. One of the most significant and crazy events is the boat race, which takes place along the Emajõgi River that runs through town. The fun is in the eye-catching vessels, made out of anything that floats or doesn’t float. If you prefer to stay dry, warm, and on land, enjoy the student market, song festival or one of the pub rallies. The Student Days finish up with a huge party on the night of Walpurgis, which marks the definite arrival of spring! 29 April – 5 May, www.studentdays.ee

09 Tartu Adventure Park Opened last June, the Tartu Adventure Park is the latest in outdoor fun. Located in the Raadi district in an old gravel pit, there are 50 different challenges for you to conquer like climbing and zip lining. www.tartuseikluspark.ee

10 Botanical Gardens Summer is the best time to visit Tartu’s Botanical Gardens. Take a tour of the large greenhouse, housing hundreds of foreign species, or enjoy the sunshine in the outdoor garden.

Estlink 2 Nears Completion Construction of Estlink 2, the second underwater power cable to connect Estonia and Finland, will be completed in August. Testing will then begin in October,. The project began in February of 2012 and is set to be ready for use in 2014. This will triple the electrical supply between Nordic and Baltic markets.

The project cost 320 million euros, with 100 million euros in EU support. The remaining cost will be shared between Estonian and Finnish taxpayers.

Tax Evaders Beware Estonia’s Tax and Customs Board confirmed that they are using Google Map Street View to gather information on tax dodgers. The Lithuanian Tax Board is also using information from the same source and has found 100 houses and 30 construction companies that they suspect of avoiding taxes. “Google Map Street View is an additional source of information that we may use before evaluating locations with the aim of assessing real estate, for example, if a person has declared little or no income, but the house where that person lives has great value,” said Tõnis Kuuse, the head of the Intelligence Department at the Estonian Tax and Customs Board.

Spotify Now Available in Estonia The wait is over; Spotify, the online music streaming service, is now available in Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. Since its initial launch in 2008, it has taken four and a half years for the service to come to Estonia. The service was founded in Sweden and offers listeners over 20 million music tracks. Spotify is supported by visual and radio advertising. The service is now available in 28 countries. It has over 24 million active users.

How to get there? n Air Flybe has six weekly connecting flights to and from Helsinki. Flight time is 50 minutes. www.tartu-airport.ee, www.flybe.com n Bus An express bus runs between Tartu and Tallinn between 7.00-20.00 on the hour. Estonian buses offer free WiFi, and pass through the Tallinn Airport.

Information and schedules for national bus lines can be found at: www.tpilet.ee Lux Express busses run between Riga and St. Petersburg, stopping in Tartu. These buses are comfortable and luxurious, with en route service of warm drinks and snacks. Information and schedules for international bus lines can be found at: www.eurolines, www.ecolines.ee n Train Morning and evening trains connect Tallinn and Tartu daily. The Tartu-Valga line connects to the Riga line from Valga.

For more information and schedules visit: www.edel.ee

For more information about Tartu visit: www.visittartu.com Tourist Information Raekoda, Tartu. Summer opening hours (starting 15.05): Mo-Fr 9-18; Sa, Su 10-17.

Finns Spend Record Amount in Estonia A recent survey from a Finnish merchants association found that over 80% of Finnish tourists bought alcohol and 58% purchased sweets while visiting Estonia in 2012. Finnish visitors spent a total of 501 million euros. This figure was up 8% from 2011. Around 20% of Finnish citizens visited Estonia at least twice last year. Low prices were the main factor for this rise. One quarter of the alcohol purchased in Estonia was taken to Finland. The Finnish government has also implemented taxes on sweets and sugary beverages, making them much more affordable here in Estonia.

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museum

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Summer at the Estonian Open Air Museum The Estonian Open Air Museum is a pleasant journey through Estonian history, regions and traditions.

Visitors can take part in many of the activities surrounded by lush greenery, meadows, forests, and the sea. Here is a look at some the exhibits on display this summer.

Text and photo evm

n Aarte Farm

n Sassi-Jaani Farm The exhibitions and a display of items provide an overview of Estonian farm building, household articles, crop farming, and animal husbandry over the course of history.

Dance performances of the Folklore Society Leigarid take place on Saturdays and Sundays from May 25 to September 1 at 11:00.

Aarte farm residents make their living by coastal fishing. Baltic small herrings have been hung to dry under the eave. Apart from other chores, the housewife is making a patchwork quilt.

At weekends, the coffee bought from Finnish friends is roasted and ground.

n Nuki Farm The poor family earns its daily bread by handicraft. The housewife crochets fine lace, does drawn thread work or any other work depending on what richer people order.

On Saturdays and Sundays (from May 5 to September 15) Kriuks King the shoemaker will be making footwear to order. n Härjapea Farm The housewives of this 1930s farm are experts at both handicraft and cooking delicious meals.

On Saturdays in June, July, and August they will be using items from the museum collection to introduce the making of various textiles, and on Sundays they will be boiling, stewing, roasting and baking fascinating dishes from recipes from cookery books of the 1920s and 1930s.

n Jüri-Jaagu Farm Jüri-Jaagu farm demonstrates the islanders’ love of bright colours and their bold use in textiles and buildings.

The housewife will help you devise your own family mark or paint a colourful Muhu door on a shingle.

Honeyed words of a farm lad who has come to see one of the daughters of the family at twilight can be overheard at the door of the storehouse. n Kolga Farm Work and play go hand in hand on Hiiumaa.

The housewife has several chores to do. The stand has been set up for netting, and rainy days are perfect for weaving rugs on a loom.

Hiiumaa jokes can be heard in the kiln room, and someone from the mainland might need them to be repeated once or twice before they get them.

herhood congregation’s prayers and imagine how they were said.

n Sepa Farm Sheep husbandry is the main activity on the Sepa farm. However, processing wool requires special skills. The housewife will show and explain the operations needed for warm socks to be made of wool.

On Saturdays and Sundays (from May 18 to September 15) blacksmith’s apprentices from Kopli Vocational School will be working in the smithy. n

n Roosta Farm On our oldest farm, children will be able to learn about old games: walking on stilts, the “blacksmith’s hammer” game, and stick tugging.

On June 6, July 4, August 1 and 29 (waning moon Thursdays), Lahemaa Health Academy will demonstrate the methods that were used in Estonian folk medicine:  sauna, sauna therapy and water therapy;  Old Estonian massage and force therapies;  honey and bees in Estonian folk medicine;  cupping, wet cupping and leeches in Estonian folk medicine;  healing herbs.

In the prayer house of the Hernhut Brethern one can hear the brot-

Estonian Open air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn www.evm.ee

museum

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23

Museums & Galleries

The Unknown War World War II ended in May 1945. In Estonia, active resistance against the Soviet occupation forces continued.

Text: Toomas Käbin , photo: museum of occupations

The fighters were called The Forest Brothers. Follow the dramatic events at the Estonian Museum of Occupations. It gives an overview of armoured resistance in Estonia between 1944 and the early 1950s.

The focus of the exhibition is on the causes, aspirations and outcome of the fighters through the prism of organised activities as well as real stories of the Forest Brothers.

The guerrilla war started immediately after the resurrection of Soviet power in Estonia in September 1944. Members of the previous Estonian civil defence units, Estonian volunteers who had been fighting in Finland against the Soviet Union and those who had been conscripted into the German army took refuge in the forests. They were still hoping for an intervention by the allied forces from the West who would help reestablish independence lost in 1940. All in all, an estimated 16,000 persons made up the units of the Forest Brothers.

In order for visitors to understand the conditions in which the fighters lived, Martin Andreller, curator at the museum has reconstructed a bunker. This is a copy of the Põrgupõhja (Bottom of Hell) bunker from southern Estonia. The bunkers were made out of trees and leaves, they were hidden, and they were extremely small and cold.

Very often people believe that all bunkers were underground, however most were not.

Underground bunkers were set up in more hilly areas, mainly in southern Estonia. The Põrgupõhja bunker was used as a command centre in order to coordinate activities.

Most of the items on display at the exhibition are publicly shown for the first time, one of these being an authentic oven.

Visitors to the museum can follow the everyday life of the fighters on film. Living in the forest meant an everyday fight for food, winter supplies, constant hiding from Soviet security units and worries about family members. All of these factors created harsh psychological conditions.

The Forest Brothers were crushed only in the 1950s but sporadic fights against Soviet security forces occurred later as well.

Some of the items on display, full of bullet holes, give evidence of these fights! During the Soviet period the Forest Brothers were considered as bandits and murderers by the official propaganda. This can best be seen through insignia on some of the Russian semi-automatic TT-pistols talking about the fight against banditism. The backbone

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

TALLINN

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

n Museums

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

TARTU n Museums

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)

Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

n

Open daily except Monday 10.00-18.00 Toompea 8, Tallinn Map Code B1 www.okupatsioon.ee

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu)

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

n Art Museums & The Museum of Occupations/ Okupatsioonide muuseum

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

of the Forest Brothers was broken with the forceful elimination of private farms and the destruction of the social structure in the countryside through collectivization; one result being the deportation of 20,000 persons to Siberia in 1949.

Approximately 2,000 Forest Brothers were killed; most were arrested and sentenced to prison camps for 10-25 years.

Johannes Lillenurm is considered the last Forest Brother, he was found dead in an empty house in 1980 in Oru County in Western Estonia. Lillenurm had hidden from Soviet army conscription since 1941.

The last Forest Brother to fall in combat was August Sabbe who was shot on September 27, 1978.

Not only men fought as freedom fighters. Women, wives, mothers, and daughters of the Forest Brothers risked their lives in providing the men with shelter, love, food and other supplies.

No help came from the West! Estonian independence was not restored until August 1991. Only then could the story about the Forest Brothers be told!

The exhibition “Metsavennad!” – The Forest Brothers is on display until the fall 2013.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991) Temporary exhibitions Forest Brothers Olga Kistler-Ritso - the woman who founded the Museum MuSEuM OF OCCuPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn www.okupatsioon.ee muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 Open Tue-Sun 10.00 - 18.00

24

shares n n e B k r a lish ex-pat M your evening: g n E , h t n o Every m to spend e r e h w n o ig. s his thought dancing, or going to a g g, be it drinkin

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Mad Murphy's Despite its city centre location, Mad Murphy's is a bar that still has enough charm for local and tourist alike.

When visiting a city, there is nothing nicer after a hard day of sightseeing than to sit back and enjoy a good beer. Sadly, most cities tend to put their worst possible pubs in full view of the tourist clientele, offering poor quality beers at exorbitant prices in uncomfortable surroundings.

Thankfully, Tallinn is different. Situated just off Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square) lies Mad Murphy's. Although this Irish pub's rather large size may suggest an impersonal experience, visitors will certainly find a bar that meets their needs and more.

Any good Irish pub needs a decent drinks list and Mad Murphy's certainly has this.

Whether it be local lagers, foreign ales or the obligatory Guinness, you won't be disappointed. Also of note is the rather fine whisky selection that leaves no corner of the globe unturned in search of decent malt.

Besides the beer, Mad Murphy's has plenty to enjoy. Numerous large screen TV's show all the world's sports in one place, a dart board is there for those quieter moments and the weekends see a number of live acts performing traditional and not so traditional songs from the Emerald Isle. n

Location Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.madmurphys.ee

VANA TALLINN. EXCEPTIONAL. Exquisite tastes start their journey from the most exotic places and finally arrive in Vana Tallinn. www.vanatallinn.eu

Tähelepanu! Tegemist on alkoholiga. Alkohol võib kahjustada teie tervist.

nightlife

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ mmaayy 22001133

25

: o t n e t Lis

Odd Hugo

After a successful Tallinn Music Week, the folk rock sound of Odd Hugo is bringing the music industry boys to town.

Milow The Belgian music scene is a case of quality over quantity. Few bands have gained acclaim beyond its borders, but those that have, such as Deus, Soulwax and now Milow, tend to be excellent.

The DIY singer-songwriter arrived on the scene in 2006 with his début album “The Bigger Picture.” Released on his own record label, the album went on to spend 110 weeks in the Belgian charts.

Since then three more albums have been produced (all selfreleased) which have earmarked him as one of the brightest artists in Europe today.

However, Milow's big breakthrough came in 2009 with an acoustic cover version of 50 Cent's

Ayo Technology that gained airtime throughout Europe and topped the continents charts Influenced by the likes of Ryan Adams and Bruce Springsteen, Milow's fine line in catchy and melodic acoustic pop has guaranteed that live, he's an artist that’s assured to put joy in your heart and a smile on your face. It's no surprise that his reputation has started to grow in places as diverse as China and the States, and that he's gained a number of celebrity fans such as Jack Johnson, Kanye West and Perez Hilton.

Milow performs at Rock Café on 18th May. Tickets are €24 and can be purchased from Piletilevi. n

One of the joys of Tallinn music week is the ability to either a) hear lots of stuff you haven't yet heard and b) to check out all of that stuff that people told you was good but you hadn't had the opportunity to hear for yourself. Odd Hugo certainly fell into the later category and it was certainly pleasing to find that the hype wasn't misplaced.

Formed last year, the band have already gained a glowing reputation through a number of low key concerts and their excellent EP, These Grey Fields. Despite the bands brevity, they've already started to gain attention from record company executives and journalists at home and abroad.

And with a début album coming soon, they may well be on the verge of a breakthrough.

Delicate yet bold, the snappily dressed folk inspired five-piece manage to veer from mellow blueseyness to energetic folk-pop in a second, their twin vocalists create a harmonious effect that's capti-

vating, and the combination of acoustic and brass instrumentation offers a sound that's uplifting, folksy and, at the same time, earnest and heart-breaking. If Tom Waites met up with Paul McCartney and decided to write a soundt-

The de i u G c i Balt mends: recom

Sports

rack for tragic French clowns on ukulele and trombone, it may well sound like this.

In other words, we await their début with anticipation. n

Nightclubs

Clayhills

Arena 3

Drink Baar

BonBon

Hell Hunt

CatHouse

Mad Murphy’s

Club Baila

Nimeta Baar

Club Hollywood

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1 Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2 Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2 Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3 Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2 Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt

Live Music Café Amigo

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Clazz

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar Hunt

Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Rock Café

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Von Krahl Town H1

Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Privé

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club Studio

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Panoraam

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Parlament

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Partei

Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Plub

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Tapper

Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Tallinn Nightlife Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Gay G-punkt

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar

Tatari 1, Tallinn

Teater

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Venus

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

Info and reservations: by phone + 372 66 77 111 or by email reservations@meritonhotels.com www.meritonhotels.com

and Conference & Spa hotel - the ne r G n o t i r west confer Me ence and spa hotel in Tallinn.

Whether visiting for business or pleasure, you’ll be comfortable here at this Meriton hotel.

Pamper yourself in the Wellness Spa. Enjoy body treatments, massages, hair studio services.

An invigorating spa pool, a tranquil relaxation pool and saunas offer a truly unique experience.

Fitness center offers fully equipped gym, with a variety of group fitness classes.

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Tartu Airport Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel.

The airport is the best place to advertise.

Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, showcases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

Relax and enjoy delicious food in one of our many restaurants.

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and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital.

In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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n 4 Best of both worlds Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town. n 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower.

The Toompea Tower (15th century) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!

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A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage.

1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

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Patarei Prison

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n Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

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quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here.

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n Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become

n 1 Kohtu Platform The Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. n 2 Patkul Platform The Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city centre, and to the Tallinn railway station.

Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn

SÜDALINN

n 3 Kiriku Platform st The platform at the end of Kirikuävala p R t Street faces west and offers a view ps la va Rä of splendid and romantic sunsets.

The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other plat- a k Kau forms.

100m Tatari

species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros.

Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

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Ka The old ari town of Tallinn is divided Wism into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by sthanserli p Too Kaa town, or atic mp traders and the upper uie ste Kaarli kirik Toompea e was inhabited by nobility.

The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town e can be seen from viewing platLuis forms at Toompea.

The best view dla En Rahvusraamatukogu of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.

Rahvusooper Estonia

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n Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

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Toompea Castle

n The Tallinn Botanical Gardens.

4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Town Hall Pharmacy

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Tõnismäg

n The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation.

The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

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The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent n The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

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Hirvepark

n Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

n The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

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Town Hall Square

n Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

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n Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Toom-Kooli

n Town Hall Square (Raekoda).

Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Kuberneri aed

Falgi tee

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: n Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.

This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

Toompea loss

Lossi plats

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Tallinn with a view

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

IN THE OLD TOWN: n The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

Suur- Kloostri

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Must-see sights of Tallinn

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sightseeing in Tallinn Vana-Kalamaja

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useful information

TALLINN

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www.visitestonia.com

n Medical Centres and Pharmacies

Tartu

24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tourist Information

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

n Post Office

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

Embassies Austria Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

Finland Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

Iceland Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

Norway Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

Turkey Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

France Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

Ireland Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

PolAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

Ukraine Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

Georgia Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

Italy Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

Portugal Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

United Kingdom Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Canada Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

Germany Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

Latvia Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

Russia Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Czech Republic Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

Greece Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

Lithuania Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

Sweden Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

United States of America Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

Denmark Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

Hungary Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

Netherland Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

n Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Mustikas keskus, A. H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9.

How to make a phone call in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

n Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country: + (country code)(phone number) n When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222. n When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

WIFI Networks There are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee.

Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service provider.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.

Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.

Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.

Event Tickets Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is available in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

SadaMarket, Kai 5.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

please............................................palun thank you....................................aitäh, tänan excuse me...................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning...........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night..................................head ööd goodbye......................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip........................head reisi bon appetite..............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health.............terviseks

How much does this cost?.............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?................................... kas teil on? on teil? where is…............................................. kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean?...................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal)................... kuidas läheb? not bad................................................... pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you........... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you................... oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it?.................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian... mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English?...................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German?............ /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

n Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard.

American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country.

Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Linda Line terminal SEAPLANE HARBOUR

m Sada

Travel Port Terminal A, B, C a

Terminal D

Map of Old Town is on the next page.

Train Station Kadriorg park

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KUMU

Bus Station

AIRPORT (2km)

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A

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Alev-vald Alev

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Kõvakattega maantee

Territoriaalmere piir

Kruuskattega maantee

© REGIO 2008 KL-8-026

3 km 2 1 0

u Kuu Ku Sõmerpalu

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Kolka ©REGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

L 23˚00'

Maakonna piir Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

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