The Baltic Guide ENG August 2013

Local nightlife Upcoming concerts: Alice Cooper, Robbie Williams Dining in and outside of the city

Shopping Souvenirs, fashion outlets, markets, and more!

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

A U G U S T 2 0 13

Must-see sights in Tallinn

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

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editorial

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Contents Something for everyone

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ugust is now upon us. The days are getting shorter and Estonians are enjoying the last of the warm summer days, before it’s back to school and work. Here at the Baltic Guide, we’ve come back from vacation early to make sure you get the most out of your time in Tallinn and Estonia. This month’s guide is all about shopping. Looking for some good souvenirs? No problem, we’ve got you covered on what to buy. While Tallinn is not the largest European city, that doesn’t mean that you can’t get some luxury shopping done while wandering the medieval streets of the Old Town. Tallinn even has a few outlet shops to check out for the best deals on top brands.

New this month – our nightlife column. The Baltic Guide in English would like to welcome a new member to our team, Maarja-Liisa Mahla. Maarja-Liisa is a Tallinn local and loves the nightlife in her city.

She’s got the latest scoop on the hottest and trendiest places in town, places where the locals go to unwind. And if that’s not enough, Maarja-Liisa also tells you about her favourite bands, and best places in town for live music.

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

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August TOP 5

editorial TOP 10 august events

restaurants

01 ROBBIE WILLIAMS – LIVE IN TALLINN Robbie Williams will be performing at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds on the 20th of August. As part of the tour "Take the Crown - Stadium Tour 2013," Tallinn’s concert will be the only show in Northern Europe. It is also the only show that will be made into an official concert movie – “Robbie Williams – Live in Tallinn.”

02 VIRU FOLK - 9–11 AUGUST The annual folk festival in the beautiful seaside town of Käsmu takes place once again. Visitors can hear traditional Estonian music, and performances by some of Finland and Sweden’s top performers. Besides music, enjoy films and slideshows concerning the history and culture of the area, a poetry reading, and several outdoor cafés and ice cream stands.

03 KATUSE KINO - ROOFTOP CINEMA

8-9 restaurants 10 only in Estonia 12 outside of Tallinn: Haapsalu & Pärnu 13 alternative shopping

handicraf fashion, souvenir, handicraft, an and outlet shopping

For something a little different, why not take in a movie under the open air at Tallinn’s Katuse Kino or Rooftop Cinema. Cinema lovers of all ages can enjoy films of various themes from comedy to drama, classics to cult favourites. The cinema is centrally located on the 4th floor roof terrace of the Viru Centre.

14 14-15 shopping 16 kids beauty 17 be nightlife 18-19 n museum 20 muse transport 21 transpo 22-26 maps and information

04 BIRGITTA FESTIVAL 9–18 AUGUST

05 WHITE LADY FESTIVAL IN HAAPSALU - 23–25 AUGUST The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia's most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the window of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love.

Pick up your free copy at:

AUGUST 2013

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477

Photo: E.M. Concert Group

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This year’s festival will include performances of Faust, Arabella, Figaro, and Sleeping Beauty, just to name few. The stage is set in the ruins of the Pirita Convent, and visitors can enjoy cushioned seating while relaxing to the inspiring performances. Ribe, one of Tallinn’s best restaurants, will provide catering.

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

Life is beautiful!

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

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Just a few few steps from the Old Town you will find Solaris Center – the newest and most unique center of entertainment, shopping and culture.

IN SOLARIS YOU WILL FIND: • A variety of leisure and lifestyle shops for all tastes, including Apple, women’secret, Weplay, Hemtex, Denim Dream etc. • Food Court, including a cafÊ Komeet with the best view of Tallinn. • The most innovative food-store in the city. • The latest 3D multiplex cinema Solaris Kino with its 7 screens. • 2 screens at art cinema Artis. • Nokia Concert Hall – the best equipped concert hall in Estonia.

Estonia pst 9 | www.solaris.ee

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

HEALTHY FRESH FAST PASTA & PIZZA from

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SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!

25 FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

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sightseeing

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PHOTO T. TUUL

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn.

Tallinn B1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time.

Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1

the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants.

Tallinn Old Town H 2-3

nels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen” in Low German. Obviously this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 meters tall, and the walls are four meters thick.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1

PHOTO T. VOLMER

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square.

Tallinn Old Town H 1

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2

Paks Margareeta

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s.

The diameter of the tower is 25 meters and the walls are up to 6.5 meters thick!

She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn if arriving by sea.

Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Kiek in de kök

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as

Traveller's Tip

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tun-

PHOTO J. NILSON

KGB Museum A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian.

English tours book up quickly so it is advised that you make a reservation.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 Town Hall Square

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights.

One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use to Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget the swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www. tallinncard.ee

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■ New Port in Tallinn

■ Viru Folk

The new yacht port at Noblessner opened in June. But it’s much more than just a port; visitors can enjoy food at Café Noble, numerous events, and a bagjump. Located next to the Seaplane Harbour, there is a museum for the whole family, and more attractions continue to be added. Extreme sport enthusiasts have found a place on the shores of Tallinn. The bagjump will certainly get your heart racing, by jumping from five or ten metres onto an air mattress. Throughout the summer, visitors can take a bus from the Port of Tallinn D-Terminal (Tallink) at 12.55, 15.55, and 18.55, as well as a bus from the A-Terminal (Viking) at 14.25. A ticket costs 1€. The last bus leaves Port Noblessner at 19.08.

Port Noblessner (Noblessneri Sadam), Tööstuse 48, Tallinn.

Just west of the Seaplane Harbour.

The annual folk festival in the beautiful seaside town of Käsmu takes place once again. Visitors can hear traditional Estonian music, and performances by some of Finland and Sweden’s top performers. Besides music, enjoy films and slideshows concerning the history and culture of the area, a poetry reading, and several outdoor cafés and ice cream stands.

9–11 August, Käsmu www.virufolk.ee

ONION AND GARLIC LOVERS UNITE!

Lüübnitsa Onion & Fish Fair Garlic Festival Robbie Williams plays the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds August 20th.

ROBBIE WILLIAMS – Live in Tallinn Estonia might be a small country but we are still the lucky ones; Robbie Williams chose to visit.

Robbie Williams will be performing at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds on the 20th of August. As part of the tour "Take the Crown Stadium Tour 2013" Tallinn’s concert will be his only show in Northern Europe. It is also the only show that will be made into an official concert movie – “Robbie Williams – Live in Tallinn.” There will be over 100 people working

on the movie and the first time in Estonian teleproduction history that so many cameras, including a spidercam camera will be used. Robbie Williams said that he hasn’t been to Estonia before and that he’s excited that his new show will be filmed on Estonian Re-independence Day. ■ Special guest star: Olly Murs Ticket start at 70.50€ from Ticketpro.

Narva mnt 95, Tallinn www.lauluvaljak.ee http://robbiewilliams.com/

Military History Festival The Valga Military History Festival will include military marches, and battle re-enactments. Special exhibitions and an antique fair are also on the programme. Military history clubs from across Europe

will be taking part. An event not to be missed for a military history enthusiast! ■ 16–17 August, Valga www.visitestonia.ee

This annual festival celebrates the summer crops in the Seto region in Southern Estonia. Apart from onion and garlic, visitors can take part in food and photo com-

petitions, or browse traditional Estonian handicrafts. ■ 24 August www.visitestonia.ee

Raise the Dead Vincent Damon Furnier aka Alice Cooper, "The Godfather of Shock Rock," and member of the rock-nroll hall of fame, will perform an exclusive show in Tallinn at the Nokia Concert Hall on October 9th. Alice Cooper is known for his social and witty persona offstage; The Rolling Stone Album Guide has called him the world's most "beloved heavy metal entertainer." This rock legend will come to Estonia on his latest tour "Raise the Dead." Interesting fact: his new solo guitarist is a young Australian girl Orianthi Panagris. She is perhaps best known for being Michael Jackson's lead guitarist for his illfated “This Is It” concert tour. ■ 9 October – Alice Cooper at Nokia Concert Hall 12 November – Scorpions at Saku Suurhall

Have you ever tried garlic chocolate? Here’s your chance. Estonian handicrafts and local food will also be on sale, and the competitions for ‘Biggest Garlic,’ and ‘Best Garlic Hat’ will also be held. ■ 24 August www.visitjogeva.com/vi-garlicfestival/

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UP TO THE SKY BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN WWW.FACEB CEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETO ETORN

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

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www.tallinnbotanicgarden.org +372 606 2679 Kloostrimetsa 52, Tallinn Upcoming exhibitions: August 16-18 Phloxes, Clematises and Grapes September 13-15 Watermelons, Melons, Pumpkins, and Grapes from Saare-Tõrvaaugu Market Garden How to get here?

With buses 34A, 38 and 49, with Tallinn City Tour Bus, bus stop Kloostrimetsa Opened every day: Greenhouses 11.00-18.00 Park 10.00-19.00

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina.

Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.

Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.

Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open daily 10-23. TV Tower summer terrace open outside.

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

restaurants

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■ NYC Piano Bar

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■ Gelsomino Restaurant & Pizzeria

Apart from the talented musicians who play this new club, and the cosy Old Town terrace, which you can enjoy both during the day and in the evenings, NYC Piano Bar also serves food! Choose between five different kinds of burgers, or if you’re just looking for a snack, try the sliders, or mini burgers available in orders of four or eight.

Owned by the same guys behind the pricey Francesco Sibio Italian restaurant in the Solaris Centre, this patio has not seen an empty seat since it opened earlier this summer.

Gelsomino is actually three places in one: a pizzeria and restaurant, as well as a karaoke bar in the basement.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town H1

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS FLAVOURS OF ESTONIA/LAURI LAAN, MAP EVE JAANSOO

THE BEST RESTAURANTS OUTSIDE OF THE CITY - as chosen by Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants rankings.

gourmet 1. Aleksander, Pädaste Manor, Muhu Island Aleksander was the best restaurant in Estonia last year and continues to fight for the title this year. The menu is packed full of local ingredients that can be found growing on the island.

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2. Wicca, Puhkekodu tee 4, Laulasmaa The influence of this spa restaurant chef can be seen. Angelica Udeküll garnishes her salads with flowers picked from the yard.

3. OKO, Puase laterna 1, Kaberneeme Port This seaside restaurant, located not too far from Tallinn has made it onto the list every year since opening two years ago. Now they also offer overnight accommodations for visitors.

4. MerMer, Jaaniranna, Juminda Cape, Kolga- Aabla This is a true home restaurant that offers a different menu each night, catering to a set number of people, so reservations are a must. Bookings: +372 5134 590.

5. Vihula, Vihula Manor Hotel, Lahemaa

than this; ingredients are sourced from their very own garden.

This beautifully renovated manor hotel is a wonderful destination for the whole family. You can even enjoy a full breakfast in the restaurant located in the main house.

8. GMP Clubhotel Pühajärve Restaurant, Tennisevälja 1, Otepää

6. Kaheksa Jalga, KõueTriigi Manor, Kõue County

This long-running fine dining establishment is considered one of southern Estonia’s best restaurants.

Enjoy local foods and great wines from the cellar in the manor house main dining hall or on the summer terrace.

9. Not yet on the list!

Roheline Ait, Tallinna mnt 15a, Rapla.

7. Põhjaka, Mäeküla, Paide County Three chefs moved to the country and fixed up an abandoned manor house. It doesn’t get more local

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The town of Rapla, located south of Tallinn, has just received a new restaurant this spring. Reasonably priced, great quality, and a good menu – what are you waiting for, go try it for yourself!

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restaurants

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■ Vennad

■ Buffalo Bar & Grill

Owned and run by brothers, this restaurant has a friendly atmosphere and offers Russian, Estonian, and some Mediterranean inspired dishes.

Plates are beautifully presented and service is attentive.

Conveniently located in the Old Town, there is sure to be something on the menu for everyone.

Craving some ‘Americanstyle’ food? Look no further than the newly opened Buffalo Bar & Grill. Offering everything from mozzarella sticks to buffalo wings, “steaks of a lifetime” to big and juicy burgers.

Vene 6, Tallinn Old Town H2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

A glimpse at Tallinn’s alternative scene If you like kooky décor, creative menus, and reasonably priced fare, these places are a must-visit while in Tallinn. retro armchairs and seats that are liable to buckle under the weight of 21st century man, it's all there.

During the day it acts as a simple café with an impressive beer list and some good, inexpensive food, but at night the place changes to a cool, hip bar, with regular cinema nights, gigs, and DJs.

Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3 Boheem

■ Luscher & Matiesen TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, MARK BENN PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Boheem Boheem is a café and restaurant, with a true local neighbourhood vibe. It’s located directly behind the Baltijaam train station in the colourful suburb of Kalamaja. The menu offers soups, wraps, crêpes and salads. Portions aren’t massive, but will satisfy your hunger without emptying your wallet. Their Caesar salad is one of the best in the city. And there were certainly no complaints about the crepes and soups either. In summer, tables are set up outside on the sidewalk.

A lovely place to spend the afternoon among locals.

■ Kohvik Sessoon We just can’t stop hearing enough great things about this recent addition to the Kalamaja neighbourhood. Daily lunch specials (soup, main, dessert) going for under 10 fill you up without emptying your wallet. Menu items are also fairly priced, and portions are generous.

An Estonian wine label dating back to the first period of Estonian independence. Enjoy snacks and live music on their summer terrace.

Kohvik Klaus

Kohtu 12, Tallinn B1 whole grain breads, and crafty salads, this is one of the places. Set up like a cafeteria you are expected to bus your plates after you eat.

Both hot and cold meals are available from the counter, along with freshly baked muffins, and cakes.

Wash it all down with a good cup of coffee or fresh juice.

Niine 11, Tallinn A1

Tornimäe 5, Tallinn

PHOTO PETE THORP

Kopli 18, Tallinn A1

■ Kinokohvik Sinilind While mention of Estonia's Soviet past may create an awkward silence when brought up in conversation, there's no doubt that much of its furniture has taken on something of a renaissance among Estonia's trendy bars and cafés. Sinilind is a prime example. When you enter you are taken aback by the Soviet-kitsch on offer; from the wooden tables,

■ Kohvik Klaus Tallinn’s port area is changing.

Last year the Kalasadam, or fish port was revamped to house the new fish market. Across the street you will find Kohvik Klaus, a minimalist design café that now stays open a little bit later so you can enjoy a beautiful sunset over the sea while sipping on a good bottle of red. In the morning, come

back for their full English breakfast, rated as one of the best in town among English ex-pats. Next door, you can browse the work of Estonian artists and designers.

Kalasadam 8, Tallinn A2

■ Mamo If you were wondering where Estonians go for their organic foods,

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only in Estonia August News

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WINDMILLS

Estonian Air’s Financial Turnaround After cuts in staff, fleet, and routes, Estonian Air’s financial crisis has turned around after the release of results from the second quarter. The company’s future is still to be determined by a European Commission decision.

Estonia’s national carrier was profitable for the first time in years in June, and second quarter losses were down by 80 percent. But the company is not completely stable yet. The Estonian government has submitted a restructuring plan to the European Commission, but is waiting to see if it will offer financial aid.

Robbie Williams to Promote Estonia Enterprise Estonia will promote Estonian tourism through Robbie Williams by purchasing marketing space on Williams’ Facebook and Twitter pages, as well as his newsletter. The entire campaign will cost 300,000 euros, which will be paid by the European Regional Development Fund. "In addition to the usual campaigns, in the future we have decided to harness more cultural and sporting events that take place in Estonia, as well as Estonian stars of international fame," said Martin Hirvoja, board member of Enterprise Estonia.

New Trains Operating in Estonia Five new trains began operation from Tallinn’s central station at the beginning of this summer. Elektriraudtee then replaced all of its old electric trains with more comfortable and faster trains.

There are plans to increase traffic between cities, as well as intercity. The trains will not be able to travel at full speed yet, until infrastructure has been updated.

This could take another five to ten years.

In the 19th century roughly 800 windmills scattered the island of Saaremaa. Today, you can visit five of these remaining windmills on Angla windmill hill, located about 40km from the island’s capital, Kuresaare.

Kärdla HIIUMAA

MUHUMAA TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS JAAK JÕEPERA, J. NILSON

At one time every town had a windmill hill, where windmills would be built for grinding grain.

For example, Angla was once home to 13 farms and nine wind-

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SAAREMAA

Kuressaare

Getting there

Tallinn City Museum

If you are arriving from Estonia’s second largest island, Hiiumaa (Sõru-Triigi), then follow the main road (79) south towards Angla and Karja.

For more information about Estonia’s islands and self-guided tours visit: www.visitestonia.com

City Museum LINNAMUUSEUM, Vene 17.

Museums:

The Tallinn City Museum is situated in the heart www.linnamuuseum.ee of the Old Town, in a medieval merchant's house.

The Tallinn City Museum has been a European Museum Forum candidate since 2003.

The museum and its café are open We- Mo 10.30-18.00.

Renovated KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION TUNNELS, Komandandi 2.

PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM, Raekoja 4/6 CHILDREN'S MUSEUM, Kotzebue 16.

ST. JOHN'S ALMSHOUSE, Väike-Pääsukese (Close to the Radisson Blu Hotel in Tallinn) PETER THE GREAT HOUSE MUSEUM, Mäekalda 2.

MIIA-MILLA-MANDA-MUSEUM, Koidula 21c.

A colourful themed museum for children.

Author's museum, with original interior: A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM, Koidula 2.

E. VILDE MUSEUM, Roheline Aas 3.

mills. Four of the windmills standing on the hill are typical examples of a Saaremaa windmill, the post windmill. The structure is built around a post that allows the windmill to be turned, depending on the direction of the wind. Today visitors can enter the windmills, and even watch a miller at work. At the Angla Heritage Culture Centre visitors can take part in different

workshops, like pottery making, felting, bread baking, and more.

A working windmill can be seen on the island of Muhu at Eemu Farm (located near the dam of Vaike vain). Restored windmills can also be found on Abruka Island, at the Mihkli Farm Museum, and in the villages of Metsküla and Kuusnõmme.

■

■ Ferries A ferry connects Saaremaa and Muhu (Virtsu) from Kuivastu. (Approximate journey time 30 minutes). The island of Muhu is connected to Saaremaa by a bridge. The distance between Kuivastu and Kuressaare is 75 km. Ferries to Abruka Island run from Roomassaare Port near Kuressaare.

Ferries to Hiiumaa (Heltermaa) leave from the Rohuküla Port. (Approximate journey time 90 minutes).

A regular ferry runs between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa from the towns of Triigi and Sõru, respectively. (Approximate journey time 75 minutes).

Ferry schedules, and tickets sales can be found at: www.tuulelaevad.ee.

INDIAN RESTAURANT Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.

Excellent prices

rim

House Wine 2.90€ÊUÊAppetisers 2€

Dunkri

Raek oja

u tur

Pepper Steak 13.90€ÊUÊSouth Indian chicken curry 8€

egi

Town Hall Square

e

a Van

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ÊUÊGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Apte

eh

Ven e

Pikk

Vo o

g

Mündi

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ÊUÊBeer 2.50€

kan

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Irish coffee 4€ÊUÊVodka 2€

Saia

The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town) Kinga

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Kullassep a

Restaurant/Pub

kael

Viru

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

The best and the biggest coffee selection in Tallinn

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia Performances by the Folklore Society Leigarid on Sat and Sun at 11AM Handicraft days on Härjapea Farm every Saturday, food days every Sunday

Lai 26 www.kohvituba.eu

76 historical buildings, farm animals, handicraft demos, Estonian national food at the inn Open daily at 10-20 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

Merivälja tee 1, Pirita www.riveris.ee

river

restaurant

outside of Tallinn

12 PHOTO ANNELI TANDORF

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

TOP 5 Pärnu 01 THE BEACH Pärnu’s beaches are filled from morning to night on hot days, with thousands of people soaking up the sun’s rays. For those that prefer a quieter beach, Audru Valgerand or Häädemeeste beaches are better options.

02 KIHNU ISLAND Kihnu makes an excellent day trip from the mainland. Points of interest on the island include a lighthouse, museum, and the locals. Kihnu has its own dialect and culture, and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

03 HISTORIC SIGHTS Some of Pärnu’s historic sights include the Tallinna Gates (sometimes also referred to as Kuningavärav or the King’s Gates) and the Seegi Maja or Alms-house. The Tallinna Gates are part of the former medieval fortification system, and the Almshouse is the oldest house in Pärnu.

The Tallinna Gates guide visitors to Pärnu’s beach district.

Seegi Maja (Almshouse) Hospidali tn 1, Pärnu

04 WATER SPORTS Want to get even closer to the water to see a different side of Pärnu? Why not paddle on the Pärnu River, take a yacht tour in the bay, or to really get the adrenaline pumping - enjoy one of Estonia’s most popular wind surfing beaches.

PÄRNU It’s no coincidence that Pärnu has become Estonia’s favourite summer destination. Spas were already in operation in the town in the

17th century. Long sandy beaches and shallow waters make it an ideal swimming spot for children.

The warm seawater keeps vacationers coming back year after

year. Tall shady trees, lush green parks, and elegant 1930s functionalist architecture add to the beauty of this seaside town.

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05 MUSIC & ART FESTIVALS XX International Nude Art Exhibition "MAN AND WOMAN" – until 1 September Museum of New Art, 10 Esplanaadi, Pärnu Monomaffia. Pärnu International Theatre Festival – 14-17 August Pärnu Endla Theatre, Keskväljak tn 1, Pärnu

EASTERN ESTONIA’S SPA TOWNS TOP 5 Haapsalu

PHOTO TOOMAS TUUL

01 SPAS & CURATIVE MUD Freshwater therapeutic mud is said to be ten times more organic than sea mud.

It contains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is a mild odour of rotten eggs.

The benefits of the treatment are that it helps alleviate pain, inflammation, accelerates metabolism and improves blood circulation, just to name a few. But most of all, it’s just relaxing!

Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Ranna tee 2, Haapsalu Laine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, Haapsalu

02 EPISCOPAL CASTLE & THE WHITE LADY 23–25 August - White Lady Festival The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia's most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the window of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love.

03 HAAPSALU RESORT HALL (KUURSAAL) Built at the end of the 19th century, this wooden resort hall and bandstand is the only one of its kind that still stands in its original shape. The Resort Hall was the favourite place of the Russian Emperor's court and the aristocracy from St. Petersburg. Today it houses a restaurant and is the centre of summer activities in Haapsalu.

Promenaadi tn 1, Haapsalu

How to get there: HAAPSALU Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Episcopal Castle in the centre of town. The beloved Ilon Wikland children’s book series illustrator, Astrid Lindgren lived in Haapsa-

lu as a child, where she no doubt found inspiration for her work.

Ilon’s Wonderland is found in an old green wooden house. Here you can meet all the characters and wander through the interactive exhibits. Haapsalu is the ideal quiet family destination with many playgrounds. ■

Buses from Tallinn to Pärnu depart almost hourly. Driving takes about two hours. The train journey from Tallinn to Pärnu takes about three hours.

Haapsalu is under two hours away from Tallinn. Buses depart for Haapsalu frequently. Turn to the transport page for bus and train ticket information.

Distances: Tallinn—Pärnu 135 km Tallinn—Haapsalu 100 km

04 TCHAIKOVSKY’S BENCH Pjotr Tchaikovsky stayed in Haapsalu in 1867 and in honour of his time spent in this seaside town a memorial bench was erected on Šokolaadi Promenaad, where it is said he loved to watch the sunrise and the swans.

P. Tšaikovski puiestee, Haapsalu

05 MUSEUMS Ilon’s Wonderland (Iloni Imedemaa) - Kooli 5, Haapsalu Estonian Railway Museum (Eesti Raudteemuuseum) - Raudtee 2, Haapsalu Museum of the Coastal Swedes (Rannaroosti Muuseum) - Sadama 32, Haapsalu

shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

■ Tallinn Dolls Pop-Up Shop The Estonian fashion designers Tallinn Dolls opened their first pop-up shop on the second floor in the Viru Shopping Centre. Visitors can expect new pieces every week. The shop will stay in the Viru Shopping Centre for six months.

Viru Shopping Centre (Viru Keskus) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

13

■ Ilu Ilusalong

■ Slothrop’s

Ilu means beauty in Estonian, and at this centrally located beauty salon they are all about beauty and relaxation.

Clients will enjoy top-end hairdressing and styling, make-up, waxing, manicure and pedicure, and massage too! Read more about what they offer, and book and appointment on-line!

If you run out of reading material while on vacation in Tallinn, don’t worry, Slothrop’s has you covered. Slothrop’s is a second-hand bookstore located in Tallinn’s Old Town and claims to have the largest secondhand English language book collection in Estonia. Come in to browse, or stay awhile and enjoy free WiFi and a place to read.

Rävala pst 7, Tallinn B2

Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town G2

ALTERNATIVE SHOPPING From handicrafts to war memorabilia, you never know what hat you will find at some of Tallinn’s unique markets.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

HANDICRAFTS & SOUVENIRS ■ Viru Turg

Sadama Turg

Viru Turg is open daily and centrally located right across the street from the Hotell Viru. Here you will find everything from knitwear to handicrafts to postcards. While not all of the knitwear you find here is hand knit, you may find some colourful gloves or socks that are.

tables, to tombstones, clothes, and Soviet and WWII paraphernalia.

Kopli 1, Tallinn A1

■ Central Market (Keskturg) This is a popular destination for Tallinn residents to come and purchase fresh fruit and veggies, small goods, meat, and plants. Cheap clothing and other ‘hidden treasures’ may also be found.

Viru Square/Mere pst, Tallinn B2 Keldrimäe 9, Tallinn B-C 3

■ Knit Market (Sweater Wall) The sweater wall has become a bit of a knitwear shopping institution here in Tallinn. Little old ladies sell their knitwear along the Old Town wall. Browse jumpers, socks, and mittens with traditional folk patterns.

Corner of Viru and Müürivahe, Tallinn Old Town H3

FOOD ■ Baltijaama Turg Seven days a week, you can pay a quick visit to the Baltijaama market located behind the central train station. Here they sell everything from meat, fruits and vege-

■ Sadama Turg Only a few years old, this handicraft and food market continues to grow in popularity. This is a great place to come for food souvenirs and reasonably priced alcohol.

Sadama 25, Tallinn A2

shopping

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

Fancy Pants

When in Tallinn, SHOP! Your guide to handicraft, fashion, souvenir, and outlet shopping in Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERKOV

Handicrafts & Souvenirs Like in any popular tourist destination, there are an overwhelming number of tourist shops in Tallinn’s Old Town. Some offer beautiful, Estonian-made soube venirs, and others othe offer cheap, foreign-made souvenirs. Estonians are known for their textiles, jewel-

lery, handicrafts, art, and design.

They are not known for amber or matryoshka dolls, so please, visit Latvia or Lithuania for the amber pendants, and Russia for the dolls. Look for ‘Made in Estonia’ stickers or lables, or when in doubt, just ask. More often than not, Estonians that are proud of their handmade or locally sourced product will tell you the truth.

■

■ Shopping tips Estonia is a Eurozone country. Currency exchanges can be found at the airport, port, and various locations (including hotels) around the city centre. Virtually every shop, café, or bar accepts credit cards.

Bargaining – Tallinn has come a long way in 20 years. If you try suggesting a lower price in the shops, you will most likely get a strange look. Markets however, are a different story. You might just get a few euros off the price if you’re good at bargaining.

Hours – Most shops are open seven days a week, but will often close earlier on the weekends.

Tax Free – Look for the Tax Free shopping sticker on shop windows, keep your receipt and if you are eligible, you can get some money back at the airport.

Tallinn doesn’t have a designated shopping street like other European cities, but you can still find the shops of top European designers and top Estonian designers throughout the Old Town. Stick to Suur-Karja and Väike-Karja streets, especially closer to Pärnu mnt. Here you will find the boutiques of top name brands like Burberry, Hugo Boss, Max&Co, Freywille, and Marina Rinaldi, just to name a few.

Looking for something local? Top Estonian designers Xenia Joost, Kristina Viirpalu, and Oksana Tandit also have boutiques in the Old Town.

Where to find them Xenia Joost Concept Store– Pärnu mnt 12, Tallinn B2 KV Couture Kristina Viirpalu – Suur-Karja 2, Tallinn Old Town I2 Süda Boutique (Oksana Tandit & Mulberry) – Suur-Karja 2, Tallinn Old Town I2

TOP SOUVENIRS FROM ESTONIA ■ Something edible or something for drinking There is nothing better than a food souvenir. Look for Kalev chocolates, kama (a mixture of roasted barley, rye, oat and pea flour eaten with buttermilk as a filling breakfast), dried fruit crisps, Olde Hansa roasted sweet almonds (you can smell these roasting outside of the restaurant), elk meat sausage, or black bread.

You’ve probably already noticed that Estonians like their beer. A. Le Coq and Saku are the biggest brands, but smaller artisan producers are coming out with some good competition.

Not a fan of beer? Look for Vana Tallinn liqueur, vodka (Saaremaa and Viru Valge are the top brands), or the Soviet era Kännu Kukk. The Põltsamaa Castle produces great fruit wines, including Tõmmu (blackcurrant) and Kuldne (apple), which are two sweet wines, perfect for after dinner.

■ Something knitted Although mildly itchy, the iconic Saaremaa wool sweater will keep you warm on those long, cold

Outlet Shopping Tallinn has yet to build a North American highway-side outlet shopping complex, but in the meantime you can look for bargains at the Stockmann Outlet store located at the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre, or at StudioT Outlet in the city.

Estonian winter nights, as will the colourful mittens and socks.

■ Something made from juniper You’ll know this wood by its very fragrant odour. Look for butter knives, tiny jewellery boxes, key chains, and trivets.

■ Something made by a blacksmith With a shop located on Nunne in Tallinn’s Old Town, you don’t have to travel all the way to island of Saaremaa for a wrought iron souvenir from Saaremaa Sepad.

■ Something a bit different The Telliskivi Loomelinnak is located in the bohemian area of Kalamaja. This creative space has grown so much over the last two years, and it just keeps getting better. Shops like Keep, Les Petites, and Minu Väike Maailm sell Estonian designed clothes and accessories.

Telliskivi Loomelinnak Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn

The Stockmann Outlet has last season’s fashions from the Baltic locations of the famous Finnish department store. StudioT has a full-priced shop in the Old Town at Lai 36 (women’s clothes only, men’s clothes can be found at Pärnu mnt 25), but at their outlet location you can look forward to discounts of up to 70% on brands like Ralph Lauren, Trussardi, Paul Smith, and more!

Stockmann Outlet – Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn StudioT - Premium Fashion Outlet Roseni 10, Tallinn

shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

15

Shopping in Tallinn ■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Taniel Suvi – Master shoemaker

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2 Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

The days of personally designed, handcrafted shoes are not gone. Here in Estonia we have our very own shoemaker Taniel Suvi, owner of Kriuks – Handcrafted Shoes and Boots TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS JULIA-MARIA LINNA

Taniel Suvi learned the craft of shoemaking from his grandparents, in particular his grandmother, who took over the family business when his grandfather passed away. While Suvi does hold a Master of Arts degree, he explains that work is the best teacher – one only learns by doing.

“Having a pair of shoes made is a very personal experience,” says Suvi. “First we discuss the style and design and then we take the measurements.” Everyone’s feet are different. A client will have to have their feet and legs measured.

It can be done at Kriuks workshop or Taniel Suvi can visit your office or home. Suvi also travels to Stockholm about once a month, and also has an office in Nice, France. After the measurements are made, he then carves two shoe lasts out of wood - "moulds" around which the shoes will be made. “Once a client has a pair of shoes made, the process becomes much less time consuming because other shoes can be made from the same lasts,” he explains. The entire process can take up to three months, between the time it takes to discuss the design, measure the feet, have numerous fittings, and then drying. But it’s

all worth it, ensures Suvi, because the shoes can last up to 20 years.

“If you take proper care of your shoes, and give the shoes time to ‘relax’ between days worn, then they will last.”

Kriuks only uses natural materials. Vegetable tanned leather and dye extracts from plants are used to create gorgeous colours. A rye paste adhesive is also used. Clients can also choose the type of leather. “At the moment I am working on a pair of alligator boots. It is

probably one of the most difficult materials I have ever worked with because of the scales,” explains Suvi. “Much of it has to be hand-sewn.”

For more information and a portfolio of past work, visit the Kriuks website. Suvi’s workshop is located just outside of Tallinn; but he often comes to Tallinn to meet with clients.

■

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2 This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

■ A bit further out

www.kriuks.com

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3 Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2 Sadama Turg – Sadama 25

family fun

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

There is so much to see and do in and around Estonia’s beautiful capital, Tallinn. A wide variety of activities and attractions guarantee something for the whole family. The relatively small size of the city and an easy-to-use public transport system ensure many of these can be visited no matter how short your stay.

Sightseeing, adventure parks, and more

■ Energy Science Centre (Energia keskus) The Energy Science Centre offers the chance to experience the wonders of science in a fun and interactive way via 160 innovative exhibits. Located under the city’s Freedom Square, the centre promises to stimulate your interest in discovering some of the mysteries of life, earth and the universe.

Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn B2 www.energiakeskus.ee

across the bay to the city’s distinctive skyline is the Pirita Adventure Park. With six treetop trails that include various obstacles, jumping nets and rope challenges, fun and adventure is guaranteed for the whole family.

Strict safety has been incorporated into the design and operation of the park, and with qualified and experienced instructors the experience promises to be an unforgettable one.

Merivälja tee 5a, Pirita Take bus 1A from Viru keskus and get off at Supluse Puiestee.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, ROBERT BROOKES, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV, KRISTI REIMETS

■ Nõmme Adventure Park (Nõmme Seikluspark) In Tallinn’s picturesque and almost rural suburb of Nõmme lies another venue that promises fun and excitement for the whole family. The Nõmme Adventure Park offers a variety of safe activities including various treetop rope courses, zip line descents and jumping into nets, all the while using your smarts to overcome various challenges. A miniature course is also available for the little ones, where mums and dads can walk alongside their children.

Külmallika 15a (Nõmme Sports Centre)

■ Tallinn Zoo (Tallinna Loomaaed)

■ Pirita Adventure Park (Pirita Seikluspark) Set among the beachside pine forest, with beautiful views back

Located in the city’s west end, near the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre, is one of the area’s best zoological gardens. Tallinn Zoo is home to a large variety of animals from not only the Baltic region but from various parts of the world a n d i n c l u d e s k a n g a ro o s , elephants, crocodiles, snakes, fish, and birds.

Paldiski mnt 145/Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn

Take trolley bus number 6, or from the Baltijaama train station via trolley bus 7, getting off at the Zoo stop. The City Tour (Blue Line) also stops at the zoo.

Children’s Museums ■ Puppet Museum (NUKU Muuseum) Nunne 8, Tallinn Old Town G1 ■ Doll Museum (Lastemuuseum) Kotzebue 16, Tallinn A1 ■ Miia-Milla-Manda Museum Koidula 21a, Tallinn B4

WATERPARKS & SPAS ■ Viimsi Spa Hotel This spa is located just a little way out of Tallinn and has different pools, including a children’s pool and many different kinds of saunas.

Randvere tee 11, Viimsi

■ Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark Located in the heart of Tallinn, this spa hotel has a great water park for children, and saunas for the adults.

Aia 18, Tallinn Old Town G3

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beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

French skincare Sothy’s brings relaxation and luxury to Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS SOTHY’S BEAUTY SALON

Sothy's has offered the world luxurious skincare products for already 60 years. Their commitment to placing the customer and their well-being first, as well as standing out with the research and innovation in skincare science puts them at the top of their game.

One way to experience this Parisian luxury of Sothy's yourself is to visit Sothy's Beauty Salon right here in Tallinn.

Sothy's Beauty Salon offers the full salon experience. Face

and body treatments, manicures, pedicures and depilation will have you looking and feeling your best. Enjoy massages and Sothys new slimming and firming programme. Every personalised beauty ritual respects your skin

type and is tailored to your specific needs. ”Moisturising the skin with appropriate skincare products is the key to maintaining skin's vital beauty day after day,” explains Marjana, the beautician I visited at Sothys in Tallinn.

Indeed, after the Hydradvance hydrating facial treatment I had with her, it did feel like I had my skin instantly refreshed and I have to say that the privacy, quietness and spacious rooms of the salon made my relaxation complete. ■

Natural Product of the Month

Elixir of Youth

Pollen is a true super food that is even thought to add years to your life.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Pollen collected from beehives is a multipurpose natural remedy. It contains vitamins C, D, and E, as well as all B vitamins. In addition to this, pollen has 31 different fatty acids and beneficial amino acids.

There are even 60 different minerals that can be found in pollen, including iron, calcium, magnesium, chromium, and iodine.

It’s also not surprising that pollen is used as a remedy all over the world, and has been widely used in folk medicine for centuries.

Pollen’s main strength is restoring balance to the immune system, meaning it will help with postillness recovery, healing sports injuries, and relieving stress.

It’s also said that pollen helps improve sleep quality, metabolism, and lowering cholesterol. It’s

also praised for its ability to improve fertility. In Estonia, a mixture of pollen and honey can be used to treat depression.

Due to its high potency, it must be used in moderation. Over consumption of pollen can lead to liver failure. The recommended dosage is a teaspoon, one to two times daily. The pollen can be taken with with honey or water. Those with allergies should use with caution.

In Estonia you can buy pollen from organic shops, or even raw.

A small bag (150g) only costs a couple of euros. Look for good quality pollen. Raw pollen should be soft and have a strong flavour.

To store, make sure the pollen is not exposed to any moisture, as this will shorten its shelf life.

■

Location Sothy’s Beauty Salon Liivilaia 53, Tallinn Map Code B3 (5th floor of the Stockmann Department Store)

nightlife

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I DE E ™™ AAUUGGUUS ST T 2 20 01 13 3 T THHE E B BAAL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si all the must-see bout the best a u o y lls te la h a When you've seen M e Maarja-Liisa v ti a n n n lli Ta . e if tl h ges in town! n colorful nig u lo d n a s, b lu c s, b gigs, pu

The last OUTDOOR DRINKS of the season With the summer breeze getting colder, August is gently leading the warm season to an end. It's time to make the most of it. Tallinn's Old Town has several unique places to spend your evening drinking in good company or practising your dance moves. soviet touch. At the weekend it’s open until 2 am. It’s exactly that kind of place where you step inside and you can’t stop looking around – there are so many interesting little details. Grab a glass of wine or pint of beer, wrap yourself in a warm blanket and enjoy a cosy evening outside in their courtyard with live music or DJs.

Müürivahe 20, Tallinn Old Town I2

■ KATUSEKOHVIK

Butterfly lounge

■ BUTTERFLY LOUNGE Butterfly Lounge is the biggest cocktail bar in Estonia. The founders, Heinar Õispuu and Kristo Toomingas, are the highest rated bartenders in Estonia, and have won over 50 international trophies. They offer over 40 different drinks, delicious (and wellpriced) meals, along with great entertainment – on every second Thursday of the month come for

live music, and at the weekends different DJs are spinning.

Vana-Viru 13/ Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3

■ MUST PUUDEL When you are looking for something different and more bohemian, then look no further than Must Puudel. Must Puudel is known for its unique vintage interior with a

Club Studio

Katusekohvik is one of the most popular places among young people in Tallinn. It’s located on the 4th floor above Viru Street and thus offers a very different view of the Old Town from its terrace. Katusekohvik is one of the few places in Tallinn that is open all night (actually until the last customer leaves, so it is often open until early morning). It’s a great place to have few drinks before clubbing or relaxing a bit after a wild night out. There is also a separate shisha room and two terraces. Food and drink prices are very reasonable and every Monday, starting at 8pm is salsa

Must puudel

night, when you can learn the best moves from professionals.

Viru 13/15, Tallinn Old Town H3

■ STUDIO Club Studio has been on the Estonian club scene for only 2 years but despite this it’s one of the most popular nightclubs in Estonia. It has two floors and it’s powered by a Funktion-One sound system.

The upper floor is devoted more to electronic styles and downstairs you can enjoy Hip-Hop, R’n’b and new and old urban. Due to its popularity, it’s always pretty crowded. Book a VIP table with a bottle service. International and domestic DJ’s play the best music, so go and get your groove on!

■

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Estonian Music EWERT AND THE TWO DRAGONS Ewert and The Two Dragons is a four-member band that has been on the Estonian music scene since 2009 when their first album, “The Hills Behind The Hills“ came out.

Their second studio album “Good Man Down“ (released in April 2013) has quickly gained popularity and its title track won several music prizes in Estonia. This year the band won the Breakthrough of the Year award at the European Border Breakers Awards in Holland.

Since then they’ve been touring all around the world. Their music is a mixture of acoustic indie-rock, pop, experimental and country, with beautiful lyrics that take you to another world.

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ AAUUGGUUSSTT 22001133

nightlife

19

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar

Sports Clayhills

Tatari 1, Tallinn

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Karaoke

Drink Baar

Gelsomino Karaoke

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1

Hell Hunt

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2

Mad Murphy’s

The Shamrock Pub

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Nightclubs Arena 3

Von Krahl

LIVE MUSIC VENUES in Tallinn

Cigar Lounges

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

Chicago 1933

The Bank Club 777

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3

La Casa del Habano

Bibabo

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1

Sigari Maja

BonBon

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

CatHouse

Estonian Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2

■ VON KRAHL BAR

■ CLAZZ Clazz, as you can read from the name, is a classy place although they say they are not too serious about it. It’s both a jazz club and restaurant with a great vibe.

They have live music every day and it's open until late. Go for just a drink or enjoy a delicious meal. Take your dancing shoes and clazz it up!

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

■ CHICAGO 1933 Chicago 1933 is a really outstanding bar-restaurant inspired by 1930s America, situated on the border of the Old Town. Everything matches the theme – the interior, and the bartender and waitresses’ outfits take you back in time. Enjoy live music every night – everything from jazz to melodic

piano. Chicago is a really nice bar with an amazing ambience. Reservations are recommended so as not to miss a fab night out!

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Von Krahl Bar (or as the locals say, Krahl) is next to a theatre of the same name that was founded in 1992. Popular among students, punks, and artists, it’s known as the place for alternative crowds and bands. The bar is nicely decorated and has a warm (but at the same time, dark) feel. Many Estonian bands perform there and it is one of the main venues for Tallinn’s music week.

The ticket prices vary – from free to as little as 5 euros (depending on the concert).

Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Panoraam

Live Music Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar Hunt Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Rock Café

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Parlament Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Partei Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Plub Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

museum

20

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

■ Museums

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Maiden’s Tower Recently renovated and opened to the public earlier this summer, Neitsitorn is one of the 20 surviving towers of the Old Town’s fortification wall.

The history of the tower (Meghede torne) dates back to the 1300s. The Maiden’s Tower was erected between 1370-1373 when the wall was built in the Danish King’s Garden.

During the Livonian War (1558-1583) the tower was damaged and thus lost its military functions. From 1842-1960 the tower was used as a residence and was even home to one of Estonia’s top architects, Karl Burman, after World War Two. In 1981 a café was opened inside the tower and then closed in the 1990s. Following many years of neglect and its eventual closing, the Maiden’s Tower Museum and Café is once again open for business. After two years of renovations and about 2 million euros spent, visitors can enjoy a war history museum, a great café, and one of the best views of Tallinn. The tower is adjacent to the Kiek in de kök tower and visitors can access it from there as well. ■

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

TARTU

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

■ Museums

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu)

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Maiden’s Tower Museum and Café (Neitsitorn muuseum ja kohvik) Lossiplats 11/Lühike jalg 9a, Tallinn Old Town I1

The journey of a free nation An outdoor exhibit at the Port of Tallinn.

This exposition by the History Museum takes a look into the past, recalling the key events and developments of the past decades at the formation of Estonian statehood.

Photographers have perpetuated important moments leaving a print in history. They also capture more colourful persons and moments from everyday life.

The exhibition brings the birthday-year of the Republic of Estonia to Tallinn and to Estonia’s “largest tourist gate," reminding us of the complicated history of one country and introducing it to foreign visitors at the Port of Tallinn. ■

Tallinna Sadam (Port of Tallinn) Tallinn A2

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

Location

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums &

Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991) Temporary exhibitions Forest Brothers Olga Kistler-Ritso - the woman who founded the Museum MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn www.okupatsioon.ee muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 Open Tue-Sun 10.00 - 18.00

transport

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

21

tram routes

Car Hire

1 2

KOPLI

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

KALAMAJA

PELGURANNA

PORT A, B terminals D terminal

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys.

All three use the same MERIMETSA ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable.

The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

VIRU OLD TOWN

1 3

KADRIORG

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on

SIKUPILLI

driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

VEERENNI BUS

STATION

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

2 4 ÜLEMISTE

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

AIRPORT

3 4 TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

ROCCA AL MARE

Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

PORT

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee

■ BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Taxis Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2, bus no. 17, no. 23

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

■ BY TRAIN: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

■ BY AIR:

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police.

Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

Emergency Numbers: PU H E L I N N UPhone MERO T : P O L IPOLICE I S I 1 1 0 110, , P E LEMERGENCY A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 , AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Parking Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially during working hours. Public parking on city streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour, depending on the area. Blue parking signs will tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some areas, including the Old Town require you

to be for parking at night. Parking passes can by purchased from machines or kiosks.

Remember to leave your parking clock (or a written note) indicating the time when you first parked.

■ BY SEA: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport. ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 3

sightseeing in Tallinn

23

Outside of Tallinn

PHOTO JAAK NILSON

PIKAKARI

KAKUMÄE

Outside of the Old Town ■ PATAREI PRISON (PATAREI VANGLA)

■ KALAMAJA & KOPLI Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers.

When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870 many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow as the waterfront continues to be restored.

■ SEAPLANE HARBOUR (LENNUSADAM) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail services. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

■ KADRIORG Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century.

The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after the wife.

There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

■ PIRITA Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of

PIRITA

STROOMI OLD TOWN

HARKU Harkun n j järvi

St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion.

The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day and is by far the most popular in Tallinn. Rowing boats, canoes and waterbikes can be hired from near the bridge and provides the opportunity for a relaxing exploration of the river. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn ■ ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (EESTI VABAÕHUMUUSEUM)

■ BEACHES AROUND TALLINN With the onset of summer, locals are flocking to the beach to relax, cool off, and to soak up as much of the energy giving sunlight as possible, given the long and dark winters here.

Aside from the main beach at Pirita, the city is blessed with several other public swimming beaches including Stroomi (North Tallinn, Pelguranna 30), Harku (Haabersti - West Tallinn, Paldiski mnt), Kakumäe (Haabersti), and Pikakari (Paljassaare). All have certified lifeguards on duty 9:00–20:00 on weekdays and 9:0021:00 at weekends. Facilities typically include changing stalls, showers, toilets, sports and play areas, as well as food and drink facilities. These locations can easily be accessed on foot or by bike along the well-kept cycle paths, or take public transport.

For something a bit more secluded, hire a car and head outside the city to one of the rural beaches Laulasmaa, Lohusalu, Salmistu or Kaberneeme.

■ ISLANDS AROUND TALLINN If you have some free time why not escape Tallinn and visit some of the small islands located near the capital. Prangli Island has preserved its native surroundings that date back to the 13th century. Another ferry takes you to the legendary Naissaar Island (Women's Island), which was a former military base and nature area. Here you can explore the sights, which include artillery stations, a Soviet sea mine factory, a working railway, a museum, and

church. Located 14 km from Tallinn is the island of Aegna. Aegna is a protected conservation area and also boasts old defence ruins, Estonia's largest densely arranged boulders, an old cemetery, a magical stone maze, walking trails and camping sites.

■ LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK Lahemaa National Park, east of Tallinn on the road to Narva, was Estonia’s first and largest national park and is an important site as it provides the visitor with a unique examination of the country’s characteristic landscapes, ranging from stony and sandy beaches, picturesque bogs, pine forests, old-growth forests, cliff forests and rivers cut into the limestone cliffs. Aside from these natural wonders, you will discover significant historical and cultural sites like the old fishing village at Käsmu and the remains of Soviet era buildings that dot the coastline of this previously closed area. Architectural treasures can be found in the well-preserved manor houses like those at Palmse, Vihula and Sagadi. The area can be explored by car or bicycle and a variety of accommodation options from camping to manor house hotels are possible, as are day tours from Tallinn.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage.

1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital.

In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

24

useful information

TALLINN

TT H H EE BB AA LL TT II CC GG U U II D D EE ™™ AA U U GG U U SS TT 22 00 11 33

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Central Post Offices Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Phone calls ■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

Event and Concert Tickets

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide

■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Or, visit their most central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Free Wifi ■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard.

American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country.

Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

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