The Baltic Guide ENG September 2012 by The Baltic Guide

Food sightseeing Vihula Manor Live music in Tallinn

DESIGN IN ESTONIA September events

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RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

www.troika.ee R ȱ ȱŗśǰȱT ǰȱE ȱȊȱT ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ ȓ ǯ

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Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

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4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

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BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

5 Contents

Design lines he summer may be cooling off but autumn is in full swing with line up of great events. This month The Baltic Guide has decided to focus on Estonian design in honour of the upcoming Design Night Festival. From September 20-23 both Tallinn and Tartu will be celebrating Estonian design. The theme of the 7th annual festival is improving the living environment, in particular where design has substantial results. Seminars, workshops, and competitions are all part of the program to to promote discussions about design in the fashion and furniture industry. Oskar Metsavaht, Per Mollerup, Tapio Anttila, Adam von Haffner, and Pekka Timmonen, along with other famous designers from Denmark and England will present. Learn about environmental accessibility, contemporary Russian poster design, and what’s new in the field of product design. The

Estonian Design Awards Gala will be held in the newly renovated Seaplane Harbour. Festival centres will be located in the Estonian Design House and the Rotermann Quarter. And for the first time a festival will take place in Tartu. The events will be held in the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries. It’s truly fantastic to see the spirit of Estonia come alive in a great event such as this. Read more about the programme at www.disainioo.ee. And in this month’s issue familiarise yourself with design in Estonia We tell you about the Design Museum and Architecture Museum in Tallinn. We’ve got a few hints for some of the best design shopping in Tallinn; and as always a great listing of what’s going on in Estonia.

5 editorial 6-7 TOP 5, sights 8 day tripping 10 events 11 Vihula Manor, Food Sightseeing 12 culture13 beauty 16 shopping 18 design 20 music 21 what's happening

14-15

Happy Travels!

restaurants

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

Emmanuel Wille : A top Belgian chef in Tallinn Neikid: simple Spanish Artemis. Greek comfort

Will all transit passengers please proceed to gate… This is a sentence echoing in the h minds d off many Estonian Air passengers. The airline positions itself as a transit carrier with Tallinn as its hub. Take a look at the map and you will find that Tallinn is a point of connection for Scandinavia and Finland, Russia, Ukraine, Georgia and many other destinations in Western Europe. The proof of this airline’s success as a transit carrier is in the passenger numbers. In the first half of 2011 transit passengers accounted for 2-3 % of total passenger numbers, now they make up 30-40% of total passenger volumes. Transit passengers from Finland for example are flying with Estonian Air to destinations in Europe and Russia. Transit traffic supports the development of the Estonian Air network from Tallinn, as the Estonian market is small and the number of air travellers needs to be increased. The airline’s aim is to reach economies of scale to allow for a sustainable profit. The transit strategy has taken into account factors like the smaller, yet state of the art Embraer and Canadair planes, more frequent flights to existing destinations, new destinations, convenient on-line booking and an excellent service level. If everything goes according to the plan, more Embraer planes will be added to the fleet in 20132014 and more possible destinations to follow.

19 person S f Some facts: - Estonian Air was recently appointed the 5th Best North European airline by prestigious Skytrax. - Estonian Air has firm orders on 4 additional environmentally friendly Embraer aircraft; this means a standardization of the fleet with con siderable cost cuttings. All in all, the Estonian Air fleet will consist of 8 Embraer (E170, E175 E190) aircraft. - Economy class passengers can pre-order meals at a nominal cost. Business class passengers are offered complimentary meals prepared by the best chefs in Estonia. - Air France is the latest code-share partner with Estonian Air in addition to KLM, Brussels Airlines, SAS, Aerosvit, and Aeroflot. - In the first seven months of 2012 Estonian Air carried a total of 515,721 passengers. The total number of passengers on regular flights increased 52.5%, compared to the same period last year. - From August 2012, France-based cargo com pany Concorde Aviation will provide Estonian Air cargo services that will greatly improve the airlines’ potential for air freight.

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Tiit Liiv Industrial designer at Artec Industrial OÜ

The Baltic Guide

SEPTEMBER 2012

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Model: Grete Kõrsmaa (Beatrice MASS MODELNET) Photo: Andrei Chertkov Make-up: Kristi Petolai Style: Ženja Fokin Clothes: Reserved, FANKADELIK

6 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

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In September donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss an evening of songs with Raimond Valgre and Georg Ots.

This concert will be an evening to remember.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS CONCERT ORGANIZER

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The songs of Georg Ots and Raimond Valgre have certainly left their mark on the music world. Some of their most famous songs include Saaremaa valss (Saaremaa Waltz), Maailm samme tĂ¤is (The World Full of Steps), Muinaslugu muusikas (A Little Story in the Music), and Sinilind (Bluebird). Â Their songs will be performed in a joint concert by three of today's well-known artists: Marko Matvere, Mart Sander and Jassi Zahharov. Anecdotes of the lives of Raimond Valgre and Georg Ots will be told between songs to make this a truly memorable evening. Â An ensemble conducted by Mart Sander will accompany the singers â&#x2013;

Location An Evening of the Songs of Georg Ots and Raymond Valgre September 18 - 19 in Tallinn Vene Kultuurikeskus (Russian Cultural Centre) September 20 in Tartu - Vanemuise Kontserdimaja September 22 in PĂ¤rnu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PĂ¤rnu Kontserdimaja

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September TOP 5 01 When one hears the sound of guitars....

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The Viljandi Guitar Festival from September 20 22 brings musicians from all over the world to this small town.Â The headliners are Teemu Viinikainen Trio from Finland, Rune Mandelid from Norway and Lupa Santiago from Brazil. Many Estonian guitarists will also be performing at the festival. Â

www.maharaja.ee

02 It all starts with the trials.

Estonian Football Championship trial games begin in full swing on September 7th with the Estonia-Romania match at the A. Le Coq arena. On October 12, Estonia faces Hungary. Tickets can be purchased at Piletilevi kiosks.

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BELLY DANCING OPEN EVERYDAY 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 7233 Fri, Sat 20-21

Photo: Lembit Peegel

The Viljandi Guitar Festival brings international musicians together.

-30% with this coupon!

, Tallinn

03 Retro disco Dance to the disco legends Bad Boys Blue on September 14th at Club Panoraam in Tallinn. Tickets can be purchased in advance from Piletilevi kiosks. Â

04 Galloping stars

The tenth annual International Horse Show will take place in Tallinn from October 5-7th at the Saku Arena. See some of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top riders and horses compete in an event that is fun for both children and adults. Â

Get into Estonian football this fall.

05 The Golden Mask

The Golden Mask theatre festival has become a Tallinn autumn tradition. From October 2-9th see well-known Russian theatre performances in Tallinn including Three Sisters by Anton Chekhov.

sights 7

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

Irish coffee 4û t Vodka 2€ Vana-Tallinn 2û t Beer 2.50€

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Pepper Steak 11û t South Indian chicken curry 7€

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Town Hall Square

Grilled Salmon 9.90û t Grilled Duck Fillet 11€

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House Wine 2.90û t Appetisers 2€

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City planning is a reflection of ideologies and rulers from various periods.

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Kinga

The many architectural faces of Tallinn

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting

Tallinn's medieval Old Town is a sight to behold. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Kadriorg and Kalamaja

Tallinn is primarily associated with the Hanseatic period, but look around and you will find an incredible mix of styles, some beautiful, some a little more eclectic. If you want a comprehensive and structured view, visit the Museum of Estonian Architecture. But better yet, take a walk or a bus to see the buildings up close.

Kadriorg is known for its splendid baroque castle built by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine. Take a look at the wonderful wooden apartment houses and villas in the surrounding streets. Most have been carefully renovated and painted in bright colours. Kalamaja is another gem, though poorer than Kadriorg, it is still pretty run down but the houses are slowly being renovated.

■ The Old Town Many visitors only see the jewels of the Old Town that are dominated by medieval master pieces such as the City Hall, impressive churches, and the city wall with its towers. The most magnificent and symbolic building is the Toompea Castle and the Pikk Hermann tower. There are also many other interesting buildings such as the classic style parliament building at Toompea or the Art Nouveau Russian Embassy on Pikk Street. One might wonder why some areas in the Old town are empty; this is because Tallinn was heavily destroyed by Soviet air raids in 1944.

■ Central Tallinn Outside of the old Town, the Tallinn central business district is dominated by Estonian functionalism from the 1930s – the golden age of Estonian architecture. Some good examples can be seen around the Freedom Square/Vabaduse väljak and along Pärnu road. Slightly older are two important national symbols: the Estonia Opera Theatre and Concert Hall and the Art Nouveau style Drama Theatre. In central Tallinn there are numerous monumental buildings from the Stalinist era as well.

■ Nõmme Nõmme gives a glimpse of the new and modern Estonia that emerged before WWII. It is an era full of optimism and modernism that is reflected in the strict functionalist villas surrounded by pine trees.

Kadriorg is beautiful any time of year.

■ Mustamäe and Lasnamäe Mustamäe and Lasnamäe represent Soviet ideology – the step to communism where the family had been abolished and replaced by the collective, thus private kitchens were no longer needed. Contemporary Western architects and city planning influenced Mustamäe, from the 1960s. Today buildings are being given a constant face-lift. Lasnamäe from the 1970s- and 80s seems to have been built just to house the tens of thousands of dwellers who were relocated or moved to Estonia from all parts of the then Soviet Union.

■ The Harbour Area One might wonder why there is hardly any waterfront in a seaside town like Tallinn. The explanation is simple. In Soviet times citizens were not allowed to go to the sea. Today the waterfront is open and attractive for the city as well as real estate developers who have to agree on its future. ■

Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

Welcome!

News: Breakfast served 10–12 with free vodka shot

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Come and discover the Eesti Pank Museum! www.eestipankk.ee

THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM ANNIVERSARY SEASON

76 historical buildings, farm animals, exhibitions, Estonian national food at the inn Estonian Bread Day and Autumn Fair September 16th Open-air exhibit "Sayings about bread" in the museum farms Open daily 10-20. Buses: 21 and 21 B, leaving from the Balti train station. City Tour blue line leaving from Viru Square Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

day tripping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Tallinn

TALLINN

Rakvere

Estonia: Quick Trips Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Day 1 in Tallinn

From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are convenient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.com See page 20 for Tartu city map.

Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baroque architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011. This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month. Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Day 2 in Tallinn:

Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Tartu

1 Day in Tartu:

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Take a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea. Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medieval northern town.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Tartu

Day Trip from Tallinn: RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia. Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square. Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire. Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time. Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era. Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad. Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bombing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm. Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music. Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the beginning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park. Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dumplings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended. Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB. Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about. Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Photo: Toomas Tuul The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.

HANDICRAFT ASSOCIATION OF ESTONIA

All Vogue

Stores: Eesti KĂ¤sitĂśĂś Maja (Estonian Handicraft House), Pikk 22. Tel. +372 6 314 076 Platsiveere Meistrid (Platsiveera Masters), Pikk 15. Tel. +372 6 313 393 Viru Keskus (Viru Shopping Centre), Viru vĂ¤ljak 4/6. Tel. +372 6 101 332

frames and sunglasses 99â&#x201A;Ź

99 eur Essilor Crizal Alize

www.folkart.ee

anti-reflection coated lenses

2 for one glasses Fairs in Tallinn: St. Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fair - Mardilaat, Saku Suurhall 8â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11 November

Eye doctor or optometrist appointments available daily

Unique handicrafts for sale. Traditional production mixed with modern style. True artists, natural textiles, wood, metal, and ceramics. Product sales and exhibitions in Handicraft Association of Estonia stores. WW PASSAAZI PEREOPTIKA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WW-Passaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10, Tallinn (tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045) VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn (tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957) STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044) across from Stockmann PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336) gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard) Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English

Bus hire with

driver

Transfers info@vilandert.ee www.vilandert.ee Tel: +372 513 98 45

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356 ./5 5"--*// r XXX DPOUNPEB FF 5FM r 0QFO .PO 'SJ 4BU

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

A night at the opera September is the beginning of a new season for concert halls and theatres. Photo: Harri Rospu

The Soviet Sixties

The exhibition The Golden Sixties at the Tallinn City Museum gives a glimpse of life in Soviet Estonia during a period referred to as the Khrushchev Thaw. The Stalinist terror was gone, living standards had improved, and western influences were remarkable in the cultural sphere. It all came to an end with the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968 and the Brezhnev era. Tallinn City Museum/Tallinna Linnamuuseum, Vene 17, Tallinn. ■

Tallinn's Wooden Buildings, Until September 15 The National Opera Estonia will present a rather traditional program in the upcoming season with popular pieces such as Carmen, Rosalinde, Csardasfürstin, Manon Lescaut, and Man of La Mancha. One of the highlights of this season will be the ballet “Modigliani – The Cursed Artist“ on September 16, choreographed by world famous Estonian dancer Toomas Edur and music by Tauno Aints. It is an exciting story about the stormy life of Amedeo Modi-

gliani (1884–1920), one of the most famous bohemian artists of the 20th century and deals with elements of love, alcohol, and drugs. The Concert Hall at the Estonia Theatre will open its season with Stabat Mater by Antonin Dvorcak played by the Tartu Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra. Estonia Theatre, Estonia pst, Tallinn. www.opera.ee, www.concert.ee

Historical housing

Tallinn’s wooden architecture is unique and in constant change. Areas once considered as run down and slums are now highly valued living environments with architectural finesse. The exhibition covers Tallinn’s wooden architecture and offers a glimpse into the historic and contemporary wooden architecture of the city. The Museum of Estonian Architecture, Ahtri 2, Tallinn www.arhitektruurimuuseum.ee ■

■

Estonian Theatre Festival Man Hunt Estonia 2012, September 16

DRAAMA 2012 and the Baltic Theatre Festival,

Man Hunt Estonia will select the nicest athletic male models from Estonia for the Manhunt International 2012 World Festival in

Bangkok on November 10, 2012. In order to qualify, candidates have to be 20-35 years of age, 180190cm, and in good physical shape.

September 3-9

This year’s Estonian Theatre Festival DRAAMA 2012 in Tartu revolves around the Actor: the Actor as a creator, a contributor and focal point of theatre. Eight plays representing different Estonian theatres can be enjoyed. The festival is organised in collaboration with the Baltic Theatre Festival.

Nokia Concert Hall, www.nordicdreamboys.com ■

Photo: Ardo Säks

Simultaneous translation into English will be available for the main plays. www.draama.ee. Tartu, the second largest city in Estonia is located 190 km south east of Tallinn and can be reached by air via Helsinki or Tallinn, as well as by bus or train. ■ Photo: Siim Vahur

Tartu Bicycle Marathon, September 16

The Tartu bicycle marathon covers two distances, 40 or 89 kilometres. Since it is a family event, kids can also take part in races from 500 meters to 5.2 kilometres, all depending on their age. Children who participate will receive a medal and certificate! Grown ups, either professionals or amateurs, start at the Tehvandi Sports Stadium in Otepää and hopefully reach the end at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva. The bicycle marathon is part of the SEB sponsored Tartu Marathon which includes cross country skiing as well as running. A 42 km running marathon will take place in Tartu on October 6. www.tartumaraton.ee ■

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sightseeing

Culinary History Learning about Tallinn’s history and enjoying a great meal is what Food Sightseeing Estonia is all about. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

If you are like many modern day globetrotters, the average tourist group tour is not your thing. You would much rather wander around a new place on your own, while secretly trying to hide your guide book so as not to be spotted as a non-local. Or better yet, you’d like to meet some locals who could tell you what the locals do, and better yet, where they go to eat. This is what Food Sightseeing Estonia is all about. Visitors get to tour the city with a local guide and stop at a few restaurants and cafés along the way, all while learning about Tallinn’s cultural and culinary history. Paul Toots has been running the tours since March after learning about their popularity in the US. He decided to try

it for himself over here in Estonia. Having worked many years in the tourism industry, he assembled some of the best tour guides and sent them to Estonian culinary legend Dimitri Demjanov to learn about Estonian culinary history, and the current restaurant scene. Demjanov is one of the top chefs

Peke Eloranta tells us about Luscher & Matiesen's fascinating history.

in Estonia, and founder of the Culinary Institute of Estonia. The Baltic Guide decided to try the Tallinn of the Locals Dinner Tour. This tour starts at 17.00 and includes stops at four different restaurants, as well as a pleasant walk through the Old Town –mostly for digestion. First on the list: Fish & Wine. Here we got a taste of traditional Estonia with a bowl of fish soup. Delicately cooked fish in a light broth with dill certainly whet the appetite. Next, we walked down towards the historic Viru Gates and stopped in at the Vertigo café

for a glass of sparkling cider and some local snacks. Vertigo café’s own preserves were served with traditional Estonian black bread that had been baked with nuts and dried fruit. After filling up it seemed impossible that we still had two more stops left in the tour. The next destination was on Toompea. This digestive walk came at just the right time in the tour. Luscher & Matiesen was the third stop. Here we listened to the tales of owner Peke Eloranta as he described the wines of this historical Tallinn cellar. It was difficult to leave this picturesque patio that

overlooked Tallinn’s Old Town, but dinner was calling. Final stop: Musi. This wine bar/restaurant was a lovely end to a great tour. We had a choice of fish or rabbit for our main course paired with a glass of wine. The tour was professional, yet casual at the same time. Everyone in the group got along very well and the atmosphere was that of an evening out with friends. ■

Food Sightseeing Estonia www.foodsightseeing.ee

Perfection at Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa Vihula Manor is an elegant and charming 16th century estate amid lush parklands, set alongside a romantic river in the Lahemaa National Park. TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

Tallinn is an hour away; the romantic coast is only 4 kilometres away. Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa is a full service manor resort catering to the needs of the most demanding guests under the management of German Michael Stenner and his well motivated, professional team. Just to give you an example of how efficiently things work around here: you have ordered a gala buffet for 100 people but – gosh – when the function begins

you realise that you forgot to order dessert! While the guests enjoy a delicious meal, chef Toomas Lääts prepares a wonderful fluffy cake that arrives just in time with no one the wiser! Another example: all of a sudden conference guests realise that their technical equipment does not work. Minutes later the problem has been resolved by the knowledgeable and helpful staff! As we know, details make up the whole picture or as the saying goes, you can only leave a first impression once! Vihula, like all other manors

in Estonia has changed ownership over the centuries. The oldest traces of Vihula go back to 1501 when it was in the hands of Danish baron Hans von Lode. Until ten years ago Vihula was in a sad state. Now it is like a shining star, it has been fully renovated and looking better than ever. The interior is a perfect blend of traditional and daring modern. There is a clear touch of contemporary Scandinavian minimalism. It is an elegant and secluded estate, a perfect escape from the city and a supremely comfortable and luxurious place to stay. Whether

you are here on business, attending a family celebration or relaxing on holiday, Vihula takes care of your needs. The conference facilities are excellent, weddings and family functions are popular. It is the perfect place for romantic weekends. The restaurant offers gourmet dining. The spa is there for those who want to relax. The beautiful Lahemaa National Park is located beside Vihula, and offers many outdoor activities. No doubt, you feel rich and full of energy when you leave thanks to the impeccable service in an immaculate atmosphere. Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa is located approximately 100 kilometres east of Tallinn and

slightly north of the main road to Narva/St Petersburg. ■ www.vihulamois.ee

Estonian Manor Tourism In 1913, there were 1,245 manors in Estonia. These architectural pearls in the Estonian landscape have survived over time and carry the memory of the past. Most of the manor houses belonged to the Baltic-German nobility. During Soviet times they fell into decay. Today many have been carefully renovated and some are used as hotels and spas. The manors play a significant role in the Estonian cultural history and have influenced and shaped the Estonian society.

www.manor.ee

culture

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■ Sfäär

■ Estonian Design House

Sfäär’s shop is attached to its restaurant, both located in the same modern space. The shop sells more clothing, than objects, visitors can browse through brand name Scandinavian designer clothes and shoes. The restaurant is open both for lunch and dinner and serves new Nordic cuisine. Mere pst. 6E, Tallinn www.sfaar.ee.

The Estonian Design House is located in a historical building in the even more historic district of Kalamaja. This shop houses displays, promotes and sells the works of Estonian artists and designers including Monika Järg, Karin Kersa, Stella Soomlais and more. Food and design must go together because right next door is Café Klaus, another modern restaurant/café where you can enjoy good food, good music, good design, and most importantly, free WiFi. Kalasadama 8, Tallinn www.estoniandesignhouse.ee

Architectural influence The Museum of Estonian Architecture is not only interesting on the inside. The museum is located in an old salt storage building. TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

The museum building itself is an exhibit. Located in the historical shopping and industrial quarter Rotermann, this renovated building certainly suits the neighbourhood. The exhibit rooms are located over four floors. The permanent exhibit displays the evolution of Estonian architecture through the ages. Many small models and project descriptions are on display to help you familiarise yourself. The most interesting building projects are those that for some reason were never built. Many of the models on display were shown at architectural competitions, and many even won, like the Estonian National

Museum in Tartu. Eliel Saarinen’s large Tallinn plan,in spite of his great vision never made it beyond its paper form that now sits on display in the museum. The museum shows the many sides of Estonian architecture. It’s certainly evident that there were many open-minded and courageous builders in Estonia. But it’s just as well that some of the mini models were never built. They are just as interesting to look at in the museum. Still on display for the first part of September is the Tallinn wooden architecture exhibit, as well as the Estonian cinema exhibit in honour of the 100th anniversary of film in Estonia. The photos in the wooden architecture exhibit show the dis-

tinct difference between old and new buildings in the city. The history of schoolhouse buildings is in itself very particular. After the school reform many schools were built in small Estonian country communities. During this brief period (1920-40) 210 schools were built, of which 100 are still used today. The cinema exhibit can be found in the basement. The building design of cinemas has changed drastically over the years from small theatre houses to large cinema complexes. For example, one of the more interesting buildings is the Sõpruse cinema built in Stalinist style, as is the 700-seat Kosmos cinema built during the Soviet period. These cinemas have

There are many architectural models on display.

stood the test of time and are still in relatively good condition today. For this reason, it is not only the 100th anniversary of film in Estonia that is worth celebrating. ■

Location Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum), Ahtri 2. Tallinn Open: W 12-18, Th 12-20, F-Su 11-18

In search of the Estonian spy camera The small and intimate Photography Museum just behind the Tallinn City Hall is a pleasant oasis for contemplation. TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Once you step inside the medieval building with its thick walls, small windows, and steep stairs you are far away from the street noise. The museum gives an overview of Estonian photography from 1840 - 1940. The oldest photos depict portraits. I can imagine how long the whole procedure must have taken! People not only prepared themselves mentally to go to the photographer, they also dressed impec-

cably. The hair is set; the looks are solemn, more morose than joyful, as is the atmosphere. Everybody is dignified. These portrait pictures were given to loved ones. We have certainly seen examples of these kinds of photos at our grandmother’s house. Once photography developed, background decorations were added, such as romantic landscapes. At one point, city portraits seem to have become popular background motifs. No matter which pictures you focus on, they all bring the mind

to a pleasant standstill and fill you with harmony. The visitor also gets an idea of the development of cameras. Take a special look at the Minox camera, invented in Tallinn by the GermanLatvian Walter Zapp in 1936. Production was started in 1938 in Riga because Zapp couldn’t find support in Tallinn. After WWII the Minox was produced in West Germany and was often referred to as the spy camera thanks to its small size. The Photo Museum is a branch of the Tallinn City Museum and is located in the same building as

Photography has certainly changed over the years.

Location the former City Hall prison with a history dating back to the early 14th century. ■

Raekoja tänav 4/6, Tallinn, behind the City Hall Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2

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■ A-Galerii

This quirky shop is located in the Freedom Square. There is no way that you will miss it because the front window display always has something interesting and unique to look at. Here you can pick up one of a kind gifts and souvenirs, like a wall clock made out of a vinyl record, or rubber boots painted with a traditional Estonian handicraft pattern. And the jewellery….here there are all kinds of great pieces, some more traditional, and others a little bit more funky. Vabaduse Väljak 8 www.nunordik.ee

This jewellery gallery is the place to come for a unique gift. The gallery is situated in an old goldsmith’s house and has a large safe that is opened for new exhibits. The jewellery is designed by Estonian designers or designers who have learned their craft in Estonia. The gallery features the work of close to 70 artists and includes both modern and traditional designs. Hobusepea 2, Tallinn www.agalerii.ee

Thai massage is not your typical massage.

No, no, not like that! Thai massage involves stretching and deep massage. No oils are used, and the client wears comfortable, loose fitting clothing and the massage takes place on the floor. To put it simply, it’s like doing yoga, but someone else is moving your arms and legs for you. While this may sound strange, it is a massage unlike any other. Walking into the studio on a drizzly Monday morning, I felt tired and the last thing I wanted was for someone to put me into all kinds of strange positions. The spa provided me with loose-fitting pants and a comfortable t-shirt. The massage took place in a small room with comfortable cushions and blankets laid out on the floor. I was asked to lie on my back and the therapist started with my feet and legs, gradually working her way up to my arms, neck, head, and finally stomach.

■ Nu Nordik

The royal treatment TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

beauty

While some positions seemed easy, others were more difficult. Marika, my massage therapist said that Thai massage is different for everyone. Some people are more flexible than others, and Thai massage is not suited to everyone. This is why she asked me a few standard questions before starting. For example, Thai massage can be beneficial for pregnant women, but the technique is adapted. The massage left me feeling relaxed, yet energised, almost like an hour of yoga. The Thai massage is available as a one-hour treatment (35) or as a 90-minute treatment (52). Royal Thai Massage also offers different varieties of Thai massage, including an hour specifically targeting hands or feet, as well as other styles of massage. ■

Location Raekoja tänav 4/6, Tallinn, behind the City Hall. Code: Tallinn Old Town, H2

Map Code A2.

restaurants

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■ The fishy café

■ El Niño

Before the cool autumn days descend on Estonia, be sure to visit the newly renovated Fish Market in Tallinn’s port district. Between 10-16 on Saturdays enjoy a coffee and a small snack by the water. The market sells both fresh and smoked fish. The café will remain open until mid to late September, weather dependant.

This recently opened cocktail bar is just one of the places to warm up as the weather gets cooler. With an excellent drink list, and an even better tapas selection, it’s a great place to meet up with friends for an evening on the town. Conveniently located in the Old Town, it’s worth checking out.

Kalasadam, Kalaranna 1, Tallinn www.tallinnakalaturg.ee

Vana-posti 8, Tallinn Old Town www.elnino.ee

Born to cook Emmanuel Wille is the head chef in three different restaurants.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Belgian born Emmanuel Wille is nicknamed Manu in Estonia. At the moment this professional chef runs the kitchens of Olde Hansa, Clazz, and Glad Estlander. Born in Brugge, Wille was already interested in cooking from a young age. He said that by the age of six he was already baking and cooking. “I started going to cooking school when I was 12, and at the same time I began working. In the beginning I worked without pay, and by the time I was 13 I went to work in a professional kitchen. I started as a dishwasher but paid attention to what the cooks were doing. Slowly I began with simple baking tasks, and after awhile I was given more complicated duties.” Manu began earning a wage when he wanted to buy a motorcycle. “I worked for free while I was going to school, but then I

wanted to buy a motorcycle and I got money from the restaurant owner. I finished my school exams with very good marks, and I was offered a full time job at the restaurant for my good work.” In his home country, Manu worked in many different restaurants, including one with a Michelin star, where he learned the foundations of French cooking. Manu first came to Estonia ten years ago. Since then, Estonia has kept him employed in some top restaurants. “I first started working at the Roosikrantsi restaurant and I have also worked at Gloria and Charitali. I have learned something new at each one.” The owner of Olde Hansa, Auri Hakomaa, drew Manu to his current position. “Auri called and offered me a job just at the right time. I was just about to start my own business when I thought that I could wait six months and work for Auri. It has been a few

years now and I must say that I am very satisfied with my job.” Running three kitchens does not come without problems. “I am like a conductor and the back up person for the cooks. I guarantee the quality of the food portions and help the cooks if they have any problems. It’s important that the food arrives quickly to the customer without its quality being compromised.” “At the same time it is also my job to come up with new ideas and listening to those of the owners. Olde Hansa is a medieval style restaurant, and the menus have not changed that much over the years. At Clazz it is important that the food and music compliment one another, as well as the drinks. At Glad Estlander, the menu must showcase true Estonian flavours, because Estonian cuisine has been heavily influenced by its neighbours.” In all three restaurants one of the most important tasks is the

Outside on the Clazz patio, Manu shows off his plates.

procurement of ingredients. “We use as much local produce as possible. About 80 of our ingredients are from local producers, but for example it can be very hard to find good quality meat. In Clazz we use beef fillets that come from Australia, but the hamburger meat is from Livonia.” Manu is often asked what his favourite food is: “My tastes chan-

ge. In the summer I prefer light salads and fish. In the winter I like heavy soups, like the Estonian pea soup that is a great winter food. Slow cooking is my preferred method of cooking. At Olde Hansa, many of the dishes are braised slowly and marinated for many days. In our other restaurants we prepare many of the sauces in the same way.” ■

Manu started to cook at the age of 12.

restaurants

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■ Till ja Kummel

■ Gastronom

It won’t take long for this new Old Town café to become popular. The restaurant has a lovely modern yet cosy interior, with a secluded back courtyard patio. The menu consists of some fresh and light salads. The burger was really truly good, as was the duck. For dessert, try the rhubarb cheesecake.

This is the latest edition to the Rotermanni Atrium that seems to be slowly becoming the place for gourmet food. Gastronom specialises in Spanish charcuterie and cheese. Be sure to try the cured horse meat. They also have a great selection of wines and sherries that they import themselves.

Rotermanni 8, Tallinn Nunne 7, Tallinn Old Town www.till-kummel.ee

Simple, yet elegant Mediterranean flavours at Neikid This restaurant just might be one of Tallinn’s best-kept secrets.

spanish TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Good professional service, an experimental yet uncomplicated menu, and a lovely space all equal a successful restaurant. I have always been weary of on-line booking, thinking that my email goes into sea of unread messages in an inbox somewhere. Within the hour my booking had been confirmed and I had a lovely meal awaiting me at Neikid. You’ve probably never heard of Neikid because it’s tucked away on a small street behind Toompea, a route that you probably wouldn’t take to explore the Old Town. Open for lunch and dinner, it’s worth the detour. The interior is very plain –light beige and white linens cover the chairs and tables, and orchids

decorate the windows. Immediately upon entering, the professional and friendly staff is there to greet you. The menu is not very long, but it covers all the bases. It is mainly Spanish, but some other Mediterranean influences seep through. As an appetiser we tried the foie gras with Põltsamaa Kuldne jelly (10) and the low temperature roasted lamb (7). The pairing of the apple wine jelly and the foie gras worked well, and gave the dish that Estonian twist. The star however was the roasted lamb, in both presentation and taste. It came served in a glass jar and when the lid was opened smoke came out. The lamb was tender, and I only wish there had been more. Paella can be a hit or miss. We decided to take a chance on the two-person serving (18), but to be honest I wish we had tried

something else. The rice was cooked al dente and came with a generous serving of shellfish, but it was simply too salty. The server was quick to fix this and offered us coffee. I would certainly go again and try something else.

Neikid also has a great wine list with a modest selection of Old World wines and many bottles under 30. Good food and great value for the money, I look forward to my next visit already.

side order of fries (2) is a good accompaniment. The mixed platter for two (30) has a little bit of everything –sausage, chicken, pork, fries, and salad. It is also a very generous portion that could in fact be easily shared between three people.

While it is one of those places where they charge you extra for every addition and side dish, the portions are large. For two people, with two beers, appetiser and main course the total came to 40.

Location Neikid. Wismari 3 Tallinn www.neikid.ee

■

Greek comfort Traditional Greek food in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Artemis became a favourite of mine this summer, as I was in search for the best grilled meat in Tallinn. I think we might have a winner! This Greek restaurant has all the staples: souvlaki, tzatziki, dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with rice), and kihi spanakotiropita (spinach and feta pie), as well as a small selection of Greek wine.

As an appetiser we tried the tzatziki (4) and melitzanosalata (3.50), an eggplant dip with grilled pita(2). The pita was served warm and sprinkled with dried oregano and bit of olive oil. The dips, especially the tzatziki were portioned generously, leaving a little bit to accompany the souvlaki. As a main course, the souvlaki special (15) is served with salad and grilled vegetables. A

■

Location Artemis. Pikk 35 Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2. www.artemis.ee

shopping

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The hunter’s candy shop Jagdhof sells everything to meet your hunting and fishing needs.

Clothing and accessories are among the many things available at Jagdhof.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

Located in the Ülemiste shopping centre near the airport, Jaghof sells quite a lot of different things. The storeowner’s interest in hunting is certainly visible from the many trophies decorating the walls and the large selection of hunting goods lining the shelves. The

store’s priority is to bring the highest quality and the largest selection of goods to the consumer. The list of brands that Jagdhof carries is long. For example, fishing equipment brands include Hardy, Swarovski riflescopes and binoculars, Mauser revolvers, and Chavalier hunting clothes and gear. You will also find Lehtermann, Wenger, Zippo, and many more, a selection you won’t find everywhere. Fishermen will find everything under one roof at Jagdhof, including Estonian-made lures. For 8 euros you can get an Are brand lure, a bargain indeed. For hunting enthusiasts there is a large and affordable selection

of rifles. For example, for less than two hundred euros you can buy a

Mauser pistol. Even high quality bullets are reasonably priced.

The store’s top seller has to be the well-known Ben’s 100 mosquito repellent. It has the highest concentration of DEET available and is difficult to come by in the EU. Jagdhof imports this item privately and sells it for 10 per bottle. To meet the demands of more specialised customers, the store also sells genuine German-made swords. (Prices start at 199). ■

Location

Ben's 100 has the highest concentration of DEET available in an insect repellant.

Jagdhof, Ülemiste Shopping Centre, Suur- Sõjamäe 4. Tallinn. Eeden Goods and Leisure Centre (Eedeni kauba -ja vabaajakeskus), Kalda tee 1 c, Tartu

A small town with an important history The history of glass production dates back 130 years in Järvakandi. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

Järvakandi is a small town located between Tallinn and Pärnu. Its population is 1394. In fact, you’ve probably never heard of it, but there has always been a reason to visit this small town, and that is to learn about the history of glass production in Estonia. The glass capital of Estonia does not get its name by accident. Glass has been made here for over 130 years! You can learn about all of this at the Glass Museum, located in the house of an old glass master, built in 1879. The permanent exhibit is divided into two parts, the history of glass making in Estonia and the history of Järvakandi. The exhibit begins by explaining the history of medieval glass making and a manual glass boiling technique is used. It

then moves on to show mechanical glass production. There is also a worker’s room that is set up to look as it did in the 1920s. What makes this destination even more interesting is that you

can try your hand at glass blowing. The glass objects are made from Estonian sand that is melted to over 1000C. As we walked into the studio, glass artist Eero Vaikre was finishing up a day’s work, putting the final touches to a small figurine before it was to be put into the cooling oven. He first explained the basics to us, and some safety precautions. I must admit that I was little nervous to try it myself. Coming out of the oven it looks like thick glowing yellow syrup, the last thing you want is for it to drip down from the thick hollow metal rod that is used to pull it from the oven. Eero explained the technique

Glass blowing is not as easy as it looks.

step by step and guided me as I blew into the hollow tube to form a large glass bubble at the end. Not so hard after all, but what is complicated is turning the rod at a continuous pace to keep the ball evenly round. You can make an appointment to come by yourself, or with a group of up to 10 people. ■

Location Järvakandi is located 78km from Tallinn. It is easily accessible by bus or car. Järvakandi Glass Museum 1. Mai tn 2A, Järvakandi www.klaasimuuseum.ee Järvakandi Glass Studio Workshops 1. Mai tn 2A, Järvakandi www.klaasipuhumine.ee For information in English visit www.visitestonia.ee

shopping

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TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Quality glasses at a reasonable price Surgery can fix near and far sightedness, but many people still wear glasses.

Reading glasses can be found in the pockets of most people 50 years and older. You can even buy glasses for as little as a couple of euros, but you can buy stylish glasses from the optical shop with better lenses. At the Silmajaam eyeglass store in Tallinn you can choose between many different frames for under 30 euro. Progressive lenses are common. These are lenses that you can use for reading as well as distance. For these types of lenses you must visit the eye doctor to have a special prescription written for you. It is now common to have a complimentary eye exam in Tallinn eyeglass stores. Lenses are

always pre-ordered. If you are on vacation in Tallinn, have your new glasses sent to you in the post, that way you don’t have to come back to the store. Brand name frames and quality lens prices are comparable to international prices; therefore it’s certainly worth a visit to an eyeglass store in Estonia. You can also purchase glasses without lenses. In Estonia, there is a great selection of fashion brands and most stores have their own, less expensive brand name as well. ■

Location Silmajaam, Vana-Viru 11 / Aia 5, Tallinn. Map Code Old Town H3

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design

Old meets new The Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (ETDM) is conveniently located in Tallinn’s Old Town. TEXT TIMO HUTTUNEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The museum is situated in a 17th century baroque style house, worth a visit on its own. The building was restored in 1970. Museum exhibits can be found on the third floor. There is a nice view from the top floor into the courtyard where the Linnateater builds its outdoor summer stage. In addition to the permanent exhibits, there are often temporary exhibits as well.

The permanent exhibit gives a good overview of Estonian design and applied art from the beginning of the last century to today. Soviet era pop design is particularly interesting as are the everyday objects created in Soviet factories for the Soviet Union. There are also many objects from other periods. In many of the items it is possible to see just how big the designer’s imagination really was. But the best objects are those that have practical as well as aesthetic value. There are many examples of this in the exhibit, for example the award-winning milk bag holder. There are close to 15,000 objects in the museum. Comprised within the ETDM collection are textiles, ceramics,

porcelain, glass, leather, jewellery, metal, and furniture. There have been over one hundred applied art and design exhibits by Estonian artists showcased in the museum. ■

Location Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum), Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G1. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday 11.00-18.00.

Upcoming autumn exhibits at the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design: Until 23.9 MARGINALIA, Mini Books Until 4.11 Modernization. Baltic art, architecture and design in the 1960s and 1970s

Norr 11 –the best of modern Scandinavian design TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTO NORR11

Estonian soul and nature fit perfectly with the design of Norr11, a Danish-German furniture and home accessories chain that recently opened its showroom in Tallinn. It is conveniently located in the fascinating Rotermann Quarter between the Tallinn port and the Old Town. The shop is designed in a strict archaic way with generous and ambitious space that makes the collections perfectly visible and that add to a functionalist Bauhaus atmosphere. “The aim has been to create a centre for functionalist

Nordic interior design in Tallinn, which so far was lacking“, says Mr Edvard Mihkelsaar, CEO of Norr11 Estonia. All products are designed and developed in collaboration with young ambitious designers, who base their products on innovative Scandinavian design with the traditional values of Asian furniture design. Each product is unique and speaks a clear, unambiguous language. Understandably, travellers cannot carry home larger pieces of furniture, however the NORR11 showroom provides the opportunity to experience and test each

piece of furniture and accessories that can be ordered in Tallinn and then swiftly shipped to the customer world-wide. In addition to the showroom pieces, there is a wide range of additional items on-line so just ask the professional sales consultants for advice and they will assist you. ■

Location Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, Tallinn Map Code A2 www.norr11.com Shop on-line.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

person

19 September News MPs use social media too 70 Estonian MPs now use Facebook, according to Eesti Päevaleht. This is a large jump from only 28 users in 2010. Liia Hänni, E-Governance Academy Program Director said she would like to see more use of social media applications. This would allow the public to post queries to politicians directly. A third of the Estonian population used Facebook last year, according to ETV.

Estonia to aid Georgian anti-cybercrime project The Estonian Police and Border Guard have been allocated 64,378€ by the Foreign Ministry to better Georgia’s capability in preventing and combating cybercrime. Fighting cybercrime is a priority for Georgia and it wants to standardise its strategies and legislation to match those of the European Union. Georgia has also joined the Council of Europe’s Cybercrime Convention Committee.

Design is everywhere! Look around and you will see that design is everywhere; in your clothes, your iPad and in the next car you pass.

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: TIIT LIIV

Tiit Liiv (49) at Artec Industrial OÜ is a successful industrial designer who influences our surroundings and everyday life. Tiit is a graduate from ERKI/ The Estonian Academy of Arts and has specialised in industrial design with an emphasis in electronics and medical appliances. In which design category would you place Estonia? Although we talk about design in very general terms I would bring up two fields where we are strong: so called unique design, such as furniture or exhibitions and industrial design in its classical meaning.

Can you give some examples? You can find Estonian design in large and small industry such as sports clothing, textiles, and electronics. The more Estonian industry is exposed to international competition, the more possibilities are given to our industrial designers. Where do the ideas and inspiration come from? The ideas and impulses are primarily derived from interesting and complex projects as well as from the ever-increasing technical possibilities, not least of which are computer based. What is the impact of a strong design country like neighbouring Finland?

Professional design education in Estonia goes back to the mid 1960s.

I’m sure that Estonian design has been influenced by classical Finnish industrial design that is highly appreciated globally. It is functional and minimalist. Many of

Elements of design are evident even in small and large medical objects.

our designers have been educated in Finland or they have been working there. I was working with one of the leading design companies in Finland for years. This was an important complement to my formal Estonia design education. Helsinki has been named the World Design Capital in 2012. Does this have an impact on Estonia? No doubt it will influence us, not least of which because the year also enables Estonian designers to expose themselves through an Estonian design exhibition in Suvilahti in Helsinki. What is most important to you as an industrial designer? For me it is important to make use of available technologies and efficient cooperation with industrial partners especially from R&D departments. At the same time designers often approach things from an unexpected angle with regard to contemporary and novel technologies. How do you judge Estonian design education? Professional design education in Estonia goes back to the mid 1960s, which gives a strong foundation. In addition to this, cooperation with universities within the product development sector is on the rise. Thus I’m optimistic. ■

Fuel prices rise Fuel prices are still higher than in the same period last year, despite a declining trend seen since April. Prices have increased by approximately one third. This means that driving 30km a day will cost 300€ more per year. Fuel prices are still lower in Estonia than the European average.

Electronic ticket systems installed on public transport In August, the Tallinn Transport Department began installing electronic ticket validating systems in Tallinn’s public transport vehicles. Starting September 21, electronic cards will be available for purchase. This new system will cost 4.6 million euros. Paper tickets will still be accepted until the end of this year.

Historical register available on phones A new mobile phone application now allows smartphone users to query the Heritage Board. Launched in August, users can access data about historical monuments under conservation including name, number, type, address, history, description, and images. Monuments can be searched by name, number, and location, as well as by QR code scan.

entertainment

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Hungry? Many restaurants in Tallinn are open late or even 24 hours. Enjoy a snack in the early morning hours after leaving the clubs. The Clazz kitchen stays open late but on weekends you might have to pay cover to get in. Taco Express in the Old Town is popular among the younger crowd, but expect crowds around 3-4am.

Location Chicago 1933, Aia 3. Map Code Vanalinn H3. Bastioni Aed, Viru 23. Map Code Vanalinn H3. Talukõrts, Viru 18. Old Town Map Code H3. Clazz, Vana turg 2. Old Town Map Code H2. Beerhouse, Dunkri. Old Town Map Code H1. Kochi Aidad Trahter, Lootsi 10. Map Code A3. Sossi-klubi, Tartu mnt 82. Map Code C4. Rock Cafe, Tartu mnt. 80 D. Map Code C4. Valuutabaar and Cafe Amigo, Viru väljak 4. Map Code B2.

Sossi klubi

Care to dance? Tallinn’s nightlife will keep you dancing into the early morning hours. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

In addition to the many dance clubs in town, there are several great venues suitable for an older generation. Whether you like jazz, rock, or waltz, there is something for everyone. Restaurants with dance music usually open between 8 and 9pm and the party continues until 1am, and depending on the place possibly until five in the morning on weekends. Here at The Baltic Guide we decided to go see for ourselves to help you find the best dancing in town.

Taking a walk along the main street of the Old Town Viru, you can hear music in the evenings from the restaurant and jazz club Chicago 1933. It is located just off the main street on Aia. Depending on the evening, you can hear anything from rockabilly to jazz. One of the newest places in the city is the open air restaurant Bastioni Aed with live music every night. The restaurant is located right at the beginning of Viru Street, opposite the flower stalls. Once a potato field, this enclosed patio is comfortable and classy.

Talukõrts is a cosy traditional Estonian tavern. It has live music on weekends and is located in the same building as the popular Finnish karaoke bar Lokaal. Enjoy a meal and a dance at the popular jazz venue Clazz. Both Estonian and foreign artists perform on this stage. Come early on weekends as it does fill up quickly. Estonia's first brewery-restaurant Beerhouse is located near the town square. Hear live music from Thursday to Saturday in a jovial pub atmosphere.

The new brewery-restaurant Kochi Aidad offers their own beer as well as free dance nights on weekends featuring Estonian dance bands such as Kukerpillid and Apelsiin. It is located close to the D-Terminal at the port of Tallinn. The Sossi Club is a popular destination among Finnish tourists. On weekends enjoy two for one drinks between 8-9pm and ladies get in for half price. See live acts from Thursday to Saturday. The Rock Café is located in the same building as the Sossi

Club and is one of the biggest rock clubs in Tallinn. Concerts take place on several days throughout the week. See Soulfly and Fu Manchu in Spetember. The Valuutabaar in the Sokos Viru Hotel is another great place for dancing or karaoke. And if you still have energy, you can go downstairs to Cafe Amigo, which is open on weekends until five am. ■

The groove queen TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV, UNIVERSAL MUSIC

Who is Liis Lemsalu? ■ Born in Pärnu and raised in Norway, Liis Lemsalu won the Estonian Idol competition this past autumn. ■ Lemsalu was named best female Estonian artist last year and this spring she was voted as most beautiful. ■ Liis Lemsalu’s debut album was released in November. The record has both songs in English and Estonian. ■ Lemsalu’s music is a little bit of R&B, soul, and acid jazz all in one.

A recent high school graduate, Liis Lemsalu can be proud to add herself to the list of Estonian Idol (Eesti otsib superstaari) winners. Growing up in Norway, she began her singing career at an early age in the Norwegian choir. Lemsalu’s first album was released last winter. The first single, Shining Star was played on the radio quite a bit. The song is pure R&B and has a very international sound. But this is no coincidence, the lyrics were written by Niara Scarlett and the music by Ellet T. and Kyösti Salokorpi from Finland.

The second single, Wanna Get Down truly showcases her talent. Lemsalu sings this Stevie Wonder hit flawlessly and is perhaps the best song on the album. She reinvents this retro classic with a bit of modern soul. This past spring, Lemsalu took part in the Estonian Eurovision song contest with her song, Made Up My Mind. The acid jazz feel of this song is reminiscent of early Jamiroquai. But it will have to remain a mystery as to how the song would have done in the Eurovision finals. Lemsalu has paired up with Rene Puura

and shows that the young singers’ talents are visible in duets as well as covers. “Täitugu soovid” is one of the record’s two Estonian songs. Lemsalu’s sound resonates perhaps even stronger in Estonian. Liis Lemsalu can be considered one of Estonia’s top live performers. She tours with her band that is known to sometimes break into jams on stage. The Baltic Guide liked the album and we look forward to hearing much more from Ms. Lemsalu in the near future. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

what's happening this&that/diverse

Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts: Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal)

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3

Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2

9.9 15.9

14 19

6.10

18.9 22.9

19 19

25.9

26.9

27.9

27.9 28.9 28.9

15 19 19

29.9

30.9

1.10

Mirror in Mirror, Paide Church Vanemuine Concert Hall Season Opening Concert Con Brio 2010 Laureate Heili Rosin Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France), Viljandi Culture Centre KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France), Tallinn, Estonian National Opera Winter Garden Golden Classics. Estonian National Symphony Orchestra Estonian National Male Choir Mart Saar 130 Estonian National Male Choir, Mustvee Culture Centre Music through Tears- Imre Klman 130, Riisipere Culture Centre Mart Saar 130, Tartu University Assembly Hall Wild Knight. Voldemar Kuslap 75, Rõuge Community Club Mart Saar 130, Suure- Jaani Gümnaasiumi saal Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music

Hortus Musicus and Etty Ben- Zaken (Israel)

St. John Church (Jaani kirik) Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J2

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja) Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1 21.9

28.9

2.10 2.10

19 11

2.10

4.10

Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love Golden Classics. Estonian National Symphony Orchestra Con Brio 2010 laureate Heili Rosin Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music Carnival. Jaan Rääts 80

Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1 126.

08. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 30. 08 kl. 17.00 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Marike Kruup (violin), Marten Altrov (clarinet), Neeme Ots (trumpet), Age Juurikas (piano) 31. 08 kl. 17.00 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Kadri Kipper (soprano), Aule Urb (mezzosoprano), Toomas Kolk (baritone), Pavlo Balakin (bass), Piia Paemurru (piano) 02. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 09. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 16. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service 22. 09. kl. 14.00 Engineer’s Men’s Choir Concert 23. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 29. 09. kl. 18.00 Finnish Choir Concert 30. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service

Niguliste Church (Niguliste kirik) Väravatorn Lühike Jalg 9, Tallinn Karttakoodi I1

Nokia-konserttisali (Solarise Keskuses) Estonia pst. 9, Tallinna, www.tallinnconcerthall.com 8.9

8.9

16.9 22.9

19 19

23.9

25.9

28.9 2.10 5.10

19 19 19

XX sajandi muusikaeksamvinüülist mp3ni (20th century musical history – from vinyl to mp3) XX sajandi muusikaeksamvinüülist mp3ni (20th century musical history – from vinyl to mp3) Manhunt Estonia 2012 Finals Gala Dmitri Berlinsky and the Russian Chamber Philharmonic Orchestra Choir (St. Petersburg) Uljana Lopatkina "Grand PavlovaGala" Jesse Cook & Group "The Rumba Foundation" (Canada) "The Cavern Beatles" Concert Igor Butmani Jubilee Concert Vesa-Matti Loiri 50 Jobilee Concert

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja)

Hard rock fall

16th. Guitar icon Steve Vai performs on stage October 25th and Swedish band Katatonia plays November 6th. Heavy metal music invades Many Estonian bands including Tallinn this autumn. Metsatöll, Tanel Padar, Terminator, The Rock Cafe has become one of Singer Vinger, Ultima Thule and Tallinn's most popular live music Kukerpille will also play this fall. venues. The autumn program has Before Christmas, on December something for everyone, but if you 11th at the Saku Arena, Muse, known like hard rock you will be particularly for their great performances will take pleased. The autumn season opens the stage. Tickets sell out quickly so be on September 9th with performansure to get yours early. ces by Soulfly and Fu Manchu in Tickets for these events can be September. The rock band Rival Sons purchased at Piletilevi and Ticketpro will perform on October 9th, whose kiosks or online. performance last fall was amazing. The Finnish band Rasmus will take to the stage at the Rock Cafe on Location October 17th after a long absence. Rock Cafe, Tartu mnt. 80 D, Tallinn. Fans of W.A.S.P will certainly not Saku Hall, Paldiski mnt. 104B, Tallinn. want to miss the gig on October TEXT MIKKO VIRTA

19.9

28.9 1.10

19 19

Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love Henry Laks CD Release Party Price

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)

14.9

20.9

Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

27.9

29.9

Vanemuine Concert Hall Season Opening Concert Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France) Mart Saar 130, Tartu University Assembly Hall

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik) Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF) www.plmf.ee:

Niguliste 3, www.ekm.ee/niguliste

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus)

Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee

5.9

25.9

"Hingemuusika", Sillamäe Music School "Meistrite Akadeemia", Tallinna Town Hall

Rock Cafe Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee 7.9 12.9

21 19

21.9 22.9 27.9 28.9 30.9 5.10 6.10 9.10

19 19 19 19 19 21 19 19

Vennaskond/ Kurjam Soulfly (USA)/ Incite (USA)/ Lody Kong (USA) Shanon 5. Sünnipäev Sõpruse Puiestee R2 Live Kolumbus Kris Fu Manchu (USA) Terminaator 25th anniversary Singer Vinger/ Propeller Rival Sons (USA)

Guitar Hunt Pärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee Every tuesday Salsa night Every wednesday Beerpong

Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss) Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00. Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta)

Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08. Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4 Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012 Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18 Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie (Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Festivals:

INVITATION is year's guest: an 110-year-old teddy bear!

e International Exhibition-

Fair Art Teddy Planet! October 27-28, 2012

(http://www.festivals.ee/?s=1)

at the Saku Suurhall.

1.- 15.9

Teddy bear style is all around: art objects, dolls, handmade bears, handicrafts, and much more. Meet the best artists, craftsmen, and designers! Find unique gifts for you and your closest friends. Master classes! Fashion show and performances! All in teddy bear style! Come and join the party at this one of a kind event!

8.- 21.9 18.- 22.9 2.- 9.10 20.- 1.10 20.- 23.9 27.- 30.9 1.6- 15.9

Festival Plektrum, www.plektrumfestival.ee Maarjalaulude Festival, throughout Estonia Viljandi Guitar Festival, www.viljandiguitar.ee Golden Mask Festival, www.goldenmask.ee The 19th International Festival of Orthodox Sacred Music CREDO, www.festivalcredo.ee Design Night Festival, www.disainioo.ee Autumn Festival of the Estonian Academy of Music and Theatre, www.ema.edu.ee Nargen Festival, www.nargenfestival.ee

Other Events: SEB Tallinn Marathon 21.3 Sean Pollock Concert, Lounge 24, Rävala pst 3 28.-29.9 Teadlaste Öö 2012, www.ahhaa.ee

PS! Save this ﬂyer for your chance to win a hand made teddy bear in the lottery!

Only 2 days!

9.10 14.9

Phone, E-mail

http://artplanet.eu

22 22

traffic www in estonia traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

T H ET THBHEAE BLBATALI LTCTI CI GC G UGUI UDI D EE PEP TCT EE M I EDE E™™™SSD M BB EE RR 2 0 11 212

Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

Temptrans AS

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–11.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

08.00–10.30

Viking XPRS

09.00–12.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

10.30–13.30

Nordlandia (Su)

13.00–16.30

Baltic Princess

11.30–14.00

Viking XPRS

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

15.00–16.30

Lindaline

(We–M)

16.00–19.15

Nordlandia (Su)

Ticket Counters Viru 6, Tallinn, tel. +372 6 480 777, open M-F 10–18, lunch 13–13.30. Nurga 1, Maardu, tel. +372 6 006 133, open M-F 8–19, lunch 13–14, Su open 10–15 Bus Station, Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, open M-Su 6.30–21 E-mail: temptrans@ temptrans.ee, www.temptrans. ee. Buses to Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus.

14.00–15.30

Lindaline

16.30–19.00

Viking XPRS (Su)

Ecolines

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–20.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.30–22.00

Baltic Princess

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

17.30–20.45

Nordlandia (Sa)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.00–20.30

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

20.00–22.30

Viking XPRS (Su)

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

20.15–23.30

Nordlandia (Su)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

Office Tartu mnt 68, Tallinn, tel +372 6 062 217, e-mail: ecolines@ecolines.ee. Open M-F 9–18. Bus Station Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, tel. +372 56 377 997, e-mail: ecolines.kassa@ecolines. ee. Open M-F 6.30–21. Buses to Europe and Russia, as well as many other destinations.

21.00–00.15

Nordlandia (M–F)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.30–00.00

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

00.30–06.40

Nordlandia (M)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

01.00–06.40

Nordlandia (Tu–F)

01.00–07.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

(We–M)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Useful Information No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0. ■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Copterline www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

USEFUL VOCABULARY

Tallinn Train Station

The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn ■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited. See also http://www.emta.ee/ index.php?id=1089 Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase. Shopping malls are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000 Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda Line Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies. Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

■ Airport and Port Transit Getting to the Port The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port. It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passes through the port. For more information and timetables http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the Port The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www. prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport. The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo. ■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. ■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured. Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a GFIK&?89FLI receipt then the passenger is not KiX`e JkXk`fe obliged to pay. If you feel that the I8EE8Dv< price was unreasonable then make 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8 DEK% note of the car registration number, FC; JHL8I< date of journey and the name of M`il _fk\cc KFNE the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIEL DEK%

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■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

first aid…esmaabi

www.visitestonia.com

Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666. When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed. In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

24 24

TALLINN TALLINN

Tallinn and Estonia

Tartu Tartu

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Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Andrei Chertkov

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building. ■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn, tel. +372 57 503 650 E-mail: info@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open everyday May - September 10–19, Open October - April W - M 10–18, Closed Tuesday. The restaurant is open everyday May - September 10–23, October - April 11–23. ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the

Tallinn TV Tower IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

Arena 3

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Hollywood Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Inferno Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Panoraam Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud). Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town. Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower. Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum). Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms. Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4. Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room. Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56. Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011. Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum). Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

Parlament Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

Protest

Rock Café Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants The following establishments show football as well as other sports. Clayhills, Pikk 13. Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325. Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63. Mad Murphy's, Mündi 2. Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4. The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19. Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum). Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2. Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem). Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1. Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1. A museum about the world of pup-

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Tallinn Museums

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Privé

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Bonbon

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam). Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Cafe Amigo

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Tallinn Nightlife

KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum). Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum). A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4. Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art. Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1. Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display. Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1. Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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