The Baltic Guide ENG September 2013 by The Baltic Guide

Tallinn nightlife – the best clubs, pubs, and more Fall fashion – this season’s hottest styles Estonian restaurants – where to try local cuisine

Health & Beauty Issue Medical tourism, local cosmetics, spas, and more!

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

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S E P T E M B E R 2 0 13

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Contents The End of Summer Blues

ll good things must come to an end, or do they? Just because the days are getting shorter and a little cooler, doesn’t mean you have to stay indoors. Autumn is perhaps one of the best times to visit Estonia, in particular Tallinn. The massive crowds have died down, meaning no queues. Many things that were closed for the summer months, like the theatre have now reopened for a new season. Did you know that the Estonian opera house Estonia celebrates 100 years this September? Take the time to go and see a performance or two; you won’t be disappointed. Change is afoot at The Baltic Guide. We’ve spent the summer putting the finishing touches on our newly designed website, and it’s now up and running in English, Finnish, Estonian, and Russian. The new website is easier to use and has all the latest

news about Estonia right there at your fingertips. You can also use our website to book a hotel in Estonia. Rates are reasonable and the booking feature is easy to use. If you’re not following us on Facebook, what are you waiting for? Regular updates means you won’t miss a thing. We’ve also recently joined Twitter too. I’ll let you in on a little secret. All September long we’ll be asking followers on Facebook and Twitter what their favourite thing to do in Estonia is. One lucky winner will receive a year’s subscription to The Baltic Guide.

Happy travels!

3 5 6

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

editorial sightseeing september events

restaurants

September Highlights

8-9 restaurants 10 only in Estonia

01 LONG NECKS AND PRETTY FEATHERS The Matsalu Nature Film Festival will transform the small town of Lihula to western Estonia’s cultural capital from the 18-22 September. Top documentary films from the around the world will be screened, and the films’ directors will also be in attendance. Visit the nearby Matsalu National Park and see the cranes and geese meet at the end of September.

02 TARTU BICYCLE MARATHON

shopping

Mark your calendars for the 15th of September and the Tartu Bicycle Marathon. The 89km trail from Otepää to Elva will take riders over hilly gravel trails. Not feeling so brave? There is also a shorter distance of 40km. Register for the marathon on-line until 13 September.

12-13 medical tourism in estonia 14-15 fall fashion 17 health & beauty 18-19 nightlife 20 museum 21 transport 22-26 maps and information

03 THE NIGHT BELONGS TO DESIGN The Design Night Festival in Tallinn takes place on Septembers' darkest nights. From 26-29 September design enthusiasts will fill various locations over the city to parktake in seminars, workshops, fashion shows, and exhibits. For more information see page 6 in this month’s guide.

04 BRAVE HORSES, AND THEIR RIDERS The Tallinn International Horse Show will take place 4-6 October. Europe’s best riders will be competing for three days at the Saku Suurhall. Every day of the event has something for every horse fan.

05 THE SOUND OF VIOLINS

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The Kihnu Violin Festival brings music fans to this tiny island from 5-6 October. Visitors will also get a chance to try the violin under the instruction of professionals. Locals and visitors will be dancing on the last night at the closing party.

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Stylist: Ženja Fokin Make-up: Kristi Petolai Model: Evelin Lembinen Clothes: Eesti Käsitöö, KuldanLuxury, Reserved, Tallinna Kaubamaja (Michael Kors)

@ balticguide_en

SEPTEMBER 2013

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

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■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia September 12 - Autumn Farm Day September 15 - Day of Estonian Bread and Autumn Fair September 28&29 - Michaelmas village shop from the 1930s, farm animals and horse carriage rides, traditional Estonian food served at the inn Open daily at 10-20 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. VabaĂľhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

sightseeing

PHOTO T. TUUL

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1

the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3

nels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen” in Low German. Obviously this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 meters tall, and the walls are four meters thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1

PHOTO T. VOLMER

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town H 1-2

Paks Margareeta

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 meters and the walls are up to 6.5 meters thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Kiek in de kök

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tun-

PHOTO J. NILSON

KGB Museum A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so it is advised that you make a reservation. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 Town Hall Square

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use to Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget the swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www. tallinncard.ee

september events

■ Historic Anniversary Gala “Once Upon a Time in a Hundred Years…”

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

■ Watermelons, Melons, Pumpkins and Grapes from Saare-Tõrvaaugu Market Garden

The opening gala of the festival will take spectators one hundred years back in time. Guests will be arriving in horse carts, ladies will wear lace gloves, and gentlemen top hats. The performance will be a combination of dancing and singing. The gala in the theatre hall will be followed by a banquet in the Estonia Concert Hall. Anniversary celebrations continue until 20 September. September 6 - Estonian National Opera 19.30

The well-known gardener and plant-collector Harri Poom will present grapes and Cucurbitaceae species cultivated on his farm. About 60 varieties of grapes and the same amount of Cucurbitaceae will be on display. The famous Dill’s Atlantic Giant Pumpkin, whose giant fruits can weight up to 900 kg, and the Carolina Gross, the breed of watermelon that also offers massive fruits weighting up to 200 kg will be on display. Visitors can admire the white fruits of the Snow Leopard melon, yellow-fruited watermelons and other remarkable products. Visitors are welcome to purchase plants as well. 6-8 September - Tallinn Botanic Garden, Kloostrimetsa tee 52

■ At-a-glance:

ALICE COOPER

SEB Tallinn Marathon

rises from the dead, again

7-8 September Participants from over 20 different countries have already registered for this annual run. The course will take runners through the “old” and “new” of this Medieval city. Choose between 42.2km, 21.1 km, or 10km races. All finishers receive a ticket to Helsinki or Stockholm from Tallink.

Light walks in Kadriorg

Hypocrisy (SWE) 15 September Rock Club Tapper, Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn Hypocrisy came together in 1990 in the small Swedish town of Ludvika when their main songwriter Peter Tägtgren returned to his homeland from the US to set up his own band. Hypocrisy has now diversified from death metal to a more melodic sounds over the years, with Tägtgren now having taken over on the vocals.

19 September, Kadriorg Park, Roheline aas, J.Poska, Mäekalda, Narva mnt Light walks in Kadriorg is an annual festival in Kadriorg Park, which signifies the end of the summer season. Best of all, the festival is free! Events will include, fireworks, concerts, Irish dancing, and more!

Design Night Festival 2013 26-29 September, Various Locations Exhibitions and fashion shows, as well as seminars and workshops, introduce the world of design to the public in this wellestablished festival, now in its eighth year. Disäiniöö, as it is known in Estonian, showcases not only the work of Estonian designers, but also of designers from Finland, Italy, Belarus, and the UK. This year’s festival will include a food design workshop called "European Grandma's recipes."

Fair, Charity Fair! 15 September - Meriton Grand Conference and Spa Hotel, Toompuiestee 27, Tallinn This year, the Diplomatic, Expat Community & Estonia Society Association celebrates its first year. In honour of this celebration they are organising a charity fair with special guest performers and speakers. All proceeds will go to charity.

Top Football in Tallinn Estonia plays the Netherlands and Turkey in the upcoming FIFA World Cup qualifiers. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO RAIMOND RAADIK

The Estonian football team has had its struggles over the years, but has managed a victory against Andorra, both at home and abroad. In September Estonia will play Holland, who won against Estonia

in the spring in Amsterdam 3-0. In October they will play Turkey, where the last match ended in a loss of 3-0 for Estonia in Istanbul. Estonians believe in their home field, and in miracles. The close matches with Northern Ireland and Slovenia are fresh in the minds of Estonians.

The shock rock veteran brings his theatre of horrors to Tallinn this autumn. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS CONCERT ORGANISER

The Rock-n’-Roll-Hall-of-Famer Alice Cooper (65) needs no introduction. His heavy metal hits Poison, Hey Stoopid, and School’s Out still play frequently on the radio. Cooper was already famous in the 1960s for his shows using fake blood, guillotines, and the electric chair. His concerts often featured the singer’s head being cut off in various ways. His latest tour goes by the name of Raise the Dead. It’s been said that this show is by far Cooper’s best. “This tour has a completely new show, which has been performed around the world for a year now,” explains Andreas Platonov, concert organiser. The young Australian guitarist, Orianthi Panagaris will play together with the band.

Cooper’s all new theatre of horrors is a gig not to be missed!

Even though the concert will be taking place at the Nokia Concert Hall, there is no need to stay in your seats. Platonov says that there is standing room for 700 fans, where there is enough room to dance.

Tickets are going fast, because Cooper will not be performing in Finland. Tickets are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks, staring from 39. ■

Location Alice Cooper, 9 October, Nokia Concert Hall (Nokia Kontserdimaja), Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn, B2.

Holland is in the lead by 18 points in the qualifiers; Ukraine is in second place with 11 points. Estonia is second last with 6 points. In August, Estonia was in 85th place. Matches start at 21.30, and tickets are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks for 12-20 ■.

Location Estonia – Holland 6 September Estonia- Turkey 11 October A. Le Coq Arena, Asula 4c, Tallinn.

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

ANNIVERSARY FESTIVITIES

ON SEPTEMBER 6–20, 2013

FESTIVAL ESTONIA THEATRE AND CONCERT HOUSE 100 6.09

at 19.30

HISTORIC OPENING GALA OF THE FESTIVAL AND BANQUET

7.09

at 10–18

HOUSE FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY

8.09

at 12–17

THEATRE MARKET

9.09

at 14–18

CONCERT OF THE ESTONIAN NATIONAL OPERA

11.09

at 20

THE LAKE OF A HUNDRED SWANS

13.09

at 19

WORLD PREMIERE OF THE OPERA „BUTTERFLY“ BY TÕNU KÕRVITS

14.09

at 19

OPERA GALA OF GENERATIONS

15.09

at 17

OPERA „BUTTERFLY“ BY TÕNU KÕRVITS

15.09

at 20

BALLET GALA „ESTONIAN BALLET 95“

16.09

at 20

DRIVE IN CINEMA

18.09

at 19

OPERA „LA TRAVIATA“

19.09

at 19

BALLET „CINDERELLA“

20.09

at 18

MUSICAL „MAN OF LA MANCHA“

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

ESTONIA100.EE

WE CORDIALLY INVITE YOU TO PARTICIPATE!

Festival "Verdissimo!" Giuseppe Verdi 200 September 25–29

HEALTHY FRESH DELICIOUS PASTA & PIZZA from

4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!

FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25

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RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

Vana Tallinn Gala La traviata

25 September / 19:00

28 September / 19:00

Rigoletto

Requiem

26 September / 19:00

29 September / 17:00

Nabucco

27 September / 19:00

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Estonian National Opera, Estonia pst 4, 10148 Tallinn, Estonia Info: www.opera.ee Booking Mon-Sun 10.00-18.00 +372 683 1210. Box Office open Mon-Sun 11.00-19.00. Tickets available in Classictic.com

How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible. Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars. Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open daily 11-23.

restaurants

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■ Café Noble

■ Route 13 Grill

The new café at the Noblessner port, creatively named Café Noblessner is offering crayfish on their special seafood menu for the month of September. The menu costs 40€, and the café is conveniently located just west of the Seaplane Harbour.

Located in the former Tonic nightclub/bar, Route 13 Grill has been open for a few months now. The owners have been getting the menu just right and it’s all set to be launched for September. Look forward to an American style menu with all your pub favourites.

Café Noble, Tööstuse 48, Tallinn.

Route 13 Grill, Suur-Karja 13, Tallinn Old Town I2.

TRADITIONAL ESTONIAN Food, just like your Estonian granny used to make.

Vanaema juures

estonian TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

With the weather getting cooler, and the days a little shorter, a healthy helping of meat and potatoes could be just what you’re craving. Here’s a few of Tallinn’s traditional Estonian restaurants where you can get a taste for Estonian cuisine. Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, this restaurant lives up to its name: At grandmother’s or Vanaema Juures. You will not miss the giant skillet hanging over the entranceway and the old iron, serving as a door handle. Vanaema Juures offers traditional Estonian fare, incorporating local ingredients. Dishes are served up just like granny used to plate them –generously portioned. Try salt cured salmon, Baltic herring, roasted pork with sauerkraut, or roasted salmon. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t worry,

Liisu Juures

granny has even prepared mushroom and potato dumplings, served with sour cream and an assortment of salads and steamed vegetables. For dessert try the pancakes, or ask your server about daily dessert specials. It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian hospitality. Delicious smells come from the kitchen and cheerful Estoni-

as well as lingonberry sauce to go with the blood sausage. Liisu Juures also has a good selection of Estonian beers. The mead, which was not too sweet, was a good accompaniment to the selection of sausages. On a cool autumn night, step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, be sure to try the sausage feast. And what a feast it is! The platter includes five different kinds of sausages -blood sausage with sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and mustard.

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts

an music plays in the background as you enter the room. The menu boasts traditional Estonian food at a reasonable price, considering the restaurant’s prime location. To start, try the the mushroom salad, with potato and bacon. As a main, the selection of sausages may seem daunting, but the sausages themselves are very small, allowing a proper sampling of three different kinds. Included on the platter were blood sausages, pork sausages, and a larger German style wiener. They are served with a generous portion of sauerkraut and roasted potatoes,

Be careful, Estonians may not for the most part enjoy spicy foods, but they do like their mustard hot! The homemade cheese also comes very highly recommended, however the sausage feast shared between two people is plenty. To drink, try a pint of the house ale. ■

Location Vanaema juures Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1 Liisu Juures Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town H1 Kuldse Notsu Kõrts (Golden Piglet Inn) Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1

EATING LIKE A

Pickles, dumplings, and garlic bread – TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Pub food often gets forgotten when talking about traditional cuisine. It’s no secret that Estonians have had a long love affair with beer, but what are they eating while enjoying a pint? While partaking in an unofficial gastronomic pub-crawl of drinking establishments, certain Estonian pub favourites continue to pop up on the snack/appetiser menus. Often described as “õlle kõrvale” or beside your beer you will continue to notice that pelmeenid or dumplings, and garlic bread find their way onto every menu. The dumplings are stuffed with pork and are served

either boiled or fried with sour cream. While not traditionally Estonian, these snacks were a Russian import to Estonia during the Soviet period, and a childhood favourite of many Estonian children born in the 1970s-80s. The garlic bread is not what you think – Estonian black bread is cut into tiny cubes and fried in garlic butter, often served with more garlic sauce. If you’re not too concerned about your breath, these will go down very easily after a few pints. You may also notice that pickles or salted cucumbers come served with honey and sour cream. To the Western palate, this may seem to be a strange combination

■ Modern Estonian Cuisine at MEKK Chef Rene Uusmees can often be seen in the MEKK dining room talking to customers. He bases his menus on seasonal ingredients and dishes inspired by Estonian culinary traditions. The chef uses modern cooking techniques to ensure that the meat is cooked tenderly, a luxury that Estonians would not have had 100 years ago. Uusmees takes advantage of the wonderful seasonal produce of Estonia, using root vegetables like

parsnips, beetroot, and Jerusalem artichokes to add colour and different textures to the plate. MEKK Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn I2.

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

■ Karl Friedrich & Kohvik Margo

■ Buffalo Pub Buffalo Pub, just on the edge of the suburb of Mustamäe, about 4.5km from the city centre, is now featuring live music on weekends. The pub, now in its ninth year has a new menu where you won’t find anything over 10€.

The main tourist destination in Tallinn, the Old Town Square has seen many changes recently. The Karl Friedrich restaurant now has pizza on the menu! Walking from the Old Town Square down towards Olde Hansa, you will notice a new cellar café, Kohvik Margo. Karl Friedrich, Raekoja plats 5. Tallinn Old Town H1. Kohvik Margo, Vanaturu kael 10. Tallinn Old Town H2.

Buffalo Pub, Liimi 1, Lilleküla, Tallinn.

Tallinn’s Café Culture Tallinn has a true café tradition. It started over 100 years ago with influences from Germany and Central Europe. Across the street you can smell the coffee roasting in the Kehrwieder roastery.

cious selection of meals to enjoy in the café.

■ The locals say that Gourmet

LOCAL

– Estonian style. but go ahead try it; you won’t be disappointed. Other, not-so-common pub snacks that appear on bar menus are a wide assortment of smoked, salted, or dried fish. Hot smoked fish, often whitefish is a classic accompaniment to beer. Dried fish, like dried sprats are also tasty, but can be very chewy. What would an Estonian meal be without something of the pork variety? Sliced and pickled tongue can be found on many menus, as well as crispy pig’s ears. The description doesn’t sound too appetising, but the taste certainly is. Modern Western pub food is slowly creeping onto Tallinn bar menus as well. Chips or wedges are a favourite for soaking up the booze, along with onion rings and different versions of jalapeño poppers. Chicken wings are also appearing on more and more menus, more often baked or smoked, than fried, but still meaty and delicious. ■

■ Maiasmokk has great

Coffee is the best coffee in town,

pastries and an even better interior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude.

but we’ll let you be the judge. Coffee beans are roasted on site and can be brought home, or enjoy a cup in the café along with meal or a pastry. Located in the Kadriorg area, it’s easy to get there by tram, and you can enjoy a stroll through the beautiful park afterwards.■

Reval Café TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Pre-war Tallinn was famous for its elegant cafés and names like Stude, Feischner, Kultas and Corso are still in the minds of some of Tallinn’s older residents. Estonian cakes are divine! Some of the best are made with pressed cottage cheese or fresh whipped cream, meaning they are not too sweet. Enjoy cakes made with fresh Estonian berries as well. Perfect as an afternoon treat with a coffee!

■ Reval Café is chain of coffee shops and has a few locations in the Old Town. Their menu offers light meals, and the display is always filled with appetising cakes and pastries. ■ Located right off the Town Hall Square, Kehrwieder must be one of Tallinn’s cosiest cafés. The low ceilings and the dim lighting add to this ambiance. Delicious cakes are on display, and the coffee is some of the best in town.

NOP in Kadriorg is a cosy café and food shop.

■ Saiakang is one of the best people watching spots in town. With an entire window as a wall facing onto the narrow Saiakang passage, sip on a coffee while enjoying free WiFi, and watch the people the go by. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen.

Try these and more at:

■ NOP - If you want to get out

Vana Villemi Pubi Tartu mnt. 50 Tallinn B3

of the Old Town to see a different neighbourhood, take the No. 1 or 3 Kadriorg tram to NOP, a cosy organic café and food shop just off of Narva mnt. The shop sells local and specialty products to take home, and offers a deli-

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2 Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Saiakang

Location Reval Café (Old Town locations) Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town I2 Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3 Vene 1, Tallinn Old Town H2 Kehrwieder Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town H2 Maiasmokk Pikk 16, Tallinn Old Town G2 Saiakang Saiakang 3 Tallinn Old Town H2 NOP Köleri tn 1, Kadriorg, Tallinn Gourmet Coffee Koidula 13, Kadriorg, Tallinn

only in Estonia

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

PHOTO: GRAHAM MITCHELL

Visit the Old Believers' museum in Kolkja.

Hermann Castle in Narva

Kihnu Island

Don’t forget, there’s a lot to see outside of Tallinn too! Take a look at some of the unique destinations outside of Estonia’s capital. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

Castles The main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital Kuressaare is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival and many more events throughout the warmer months. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year. Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Haapsalu Episcopal Castle in the centre of town. The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia's most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the win-

dow of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love. Rakvere Castle is one of main attractions. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Narva is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva River divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Castle you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost completely

destroyed. Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian Estonia, Soviet architecture, one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.

Seto Culture South-eastern Estonia is home to the Seto people. Their land today is split between the borders of the neighbouring countries. The Seto people have an Orthodox Christian tradition. Their customs and beliefs are different from the mainstream and one of their recognisable landmarks are the multiple small prayer houses or tsässonad. Värska is the centre of Seto culture. Here you can find a museum and the Tsäimaja offering traditional food. Seto Kingdom Day takes place on the first Saturday of August in Värska. On that day a king is chosen, as well as the best musicians and the best food and beverage purveyors.

Old Believers & Peipsi Lake In the 17th century, the Old Believers came to Estonia to avoid Russian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Russian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers living in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Village to learn more about their fascinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant to have a taste of the onions that this area is known for.

Islands The fast-paced modern world has yet to reach the islands of Estonia. On the smaller islands, including Hiiumaa, there is the feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. Estonia’s largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn. Unique nature and preserved

PHOTO TOOMAS TUUL

HIIUMAA

Lake Peipsi Kolkja

SAAREMAA

Traditional Seto folk costumes

folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well. Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu. Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof buildings, including a museum. The many windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places. ■

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Tartu Airport Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise. Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, showcases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

egi

Town Hall Square

Dunkri

Raek oja

u tur

Taste one of our delicious dishes!

Apte

a Van

Pepper Steak 13.90€ÊUÊSouth Indian chicken curry 8€

rim

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ÊUÊGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Mündi

House Wine 2.90€ÊUÊAppetisers 2€

Pikk

Vo o

kan

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ÊUÊBeer 2.50€

Saia

The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Irish coffee 4€ÊUÊVodka 2€

Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town) Kinga

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Ven e

Restaurant/Pub

Kullassep a

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

kael

Viru

beauty

12 September News

■ Dressed to Impress The latest addition to the luxury shopping scene in Tallinn is Nude. The shop carries well-known brands like Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared2, and Ralph Lauren. Nude, Rävala pst. 4, Tallinn B2

Valga Unveils Restored Independence Memorial The city of Valga, located on the Estonian-Latvian border has restored a statue commemorating the Estonian War of Independence. The statue was originally built in 1925. The two and a half metre soldier holding a flag will face a cemetery where over 300 Estonian soldiers are buried. The statue had been destroyed by Soviet forces on the evening of September 21, 1940.

Estonian-Georgian Cultural Declaration Signed The Estonian and Georgian ministers of culture, Rein Lang and Mirian Odisharia, signed a bilateral cultural cooperation plan for 2013-2016. It is the first such document to be signed between the two nations. "Georgia is an important partner to us and we wish to further increase cooperation in the area of culture,“ Lang said in a press release. An EstonianGeorgian feature film called "Tangerines“ will debut in autumn.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

■ Buy Local

■ H&M Opens in Tallinn

Launched in 2012, and turned into a boutique/workshop in 2013, owners Kristel Kuslapuu ja Aivi Uiboupini aim to bring Baltic designers together under one roof, and promote them world wide. Visit their boutique for a look at locally designed clothing, jewelry, accessories, and shoes. Ateljee No13, Tartu mnt. 80K, Zelluloosi kvartal, Tallinn Buses 2, 15 and 54 from the city centre.

The popular Swedish brand H&M will open their first store in Estonia on the 14th of September in the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. The store features the latest and the trendiest fashions for the whole family, all at affordable prices. On opening day, H&M will award 10x100€ gift cards to the first 10 people in line. The following 300 people in line will receive 15€ gift cards. The Rocca al Mare store opens at 11.00. Don’t be late!

Passport, check. Dentist appointment, check. The Baltic Guide delves into the world of medical tourism in Estonia.

New Book Release: Mission Estonia Justin Petrone’s latest book explores love, family, and relationships with parents in 64 essays or short recollections. Better known for his “My Estonia” series, which follows the author’s move from the US to Estonia, Mission Estonia explores life in this northern country through tales of mobile phones, Soviet nostalgia, Facebook and more.

Patients come regularly from Scandinavia to visit Estonian dentists. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Many travellers often get their appointments out of the way before going on holiday. Hair removal, teeth whitening, cosmetic surgery is all performed pre-vacation, to have you looking your best while abroad. But what if you could

combine these procedures with your vacation, to save you time and money? In short, you can. Many visitors to Estonia are coming simply for these reasons. Cosmetic procedures, dentistry, and optical procedures are much cheaper than in other parts of Europe and

Open Air Museum Soviet Monument Competition The Estonian Open Air Museum is associated with thatched roofs and farm life, but plans to build a kolkhoz-style apartment building will also represent the Soviet era. The museum announced a competition for a monument to the classic Soviet-era construction material, eterniit - an asbestos cement roofing panel.The monument could be made of any material, but should be able to withstand the elements. Winners will produce scale models for display at Telliskivi Creative Hub 20-22 September.

English is widely spoken throughout the country.

North America, service quality is exceptional, and English is widely spoken throughout Estonia. For example, the number of foreign tourists visiting a dentist while in Estonia has gone up drastically in recent years. Patients will pay three to five times less in Estonia for dental procedures than in the UK, Sweden, France, or Spain. We spoke to one Canadian visitor who had to have a broken filling replaced: “I was astonished that at the end of the appointment, where I had x-rays done, as well as a local anaesthetic to replace my filling, the bill came to 35! In Canada, I would pay about 130 just for a simple visit.” Regular patients come from Scandinavian countries like Sweden and Finland exactly for this reason. Not only are simple medical procedures less expensive, but also some even say the service is better than at home. A visitor from Sweden said: “I don’t even

have a dentist in Stockholm. My dentist is here in Estonia.” People are even coming from further away for dental procedures. “I had to have dental implants, which in Canada would have cost about 15,000, where as I paid 5000 in Estonia,” explained one CanadianEstonian visitor. Dentistry is not the only thing that people are visiting Estonia for. More and more foreign visitors are having cosmetic procedures performed while in Tallinn. Laser hair removal, tattoo removal, and other dermatological procedures are a fraction of the cost in Estonia. Prescription eyeglasses are also a common purchase for visitors to Estonia. If you don’t have time to wait for your glasses to be finished, many shops will send your glasses to your home. Aside from cheaper prices, waiting times in Estonian private clinics are almost non-existent. As citizens of the European Union are able to visit doctors wherever they choose, why not visit a doctor in Estonia? ■

The latest technology is used in Estonia.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

beauty

Shopping in Tallinn

Take the SPA home with you There is no better souvenir than Estonian-made soaps, cosmetics, or candles.

■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ JOIK is an Estonian natural cosmetics brand. The name JOIK comes from the word “joik“ – the ancient singing style of the Sami people. All JOIK products are hand-made in Estonia, and made with natural ingredients. Their products, like scented candles, hair and body products, and soaps are available at shops and chemists across Estonia.

■ Probably one of the most interesting and unusual products that Nurme Seep, or Nurme soap makes is their felted bar of soap. This handmade soap is covered with Saaremaa wool. Since the soap is covered in wool, you can use it up completely. The leftover felted wool can then be used to wash your face. Nurme Seep also makes bath salts, scented oils, lip balms, body creams, and sun tanning oil.

■ Puhas Loodus is a skin and hair care line under the Orto brand. They make shampoos and conditioners, face, hand, and body lotions, as well as soap. What’s lovely about this series is that the scents that are used are all natural. You will find delicate fragrances like chamomile, honey, cucumber, and calendula.

■ Also under the Orto brand is an Estonian-made sunscreen, Solar.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

You will find natural scents like honey, chamomile, and cucumber. Creams are suitable for every skin type.

The Solar Sun Creams are made in Estonia and protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. The Solar range of products has something for every skin type. The

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2 Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

UVA and UVB filters help protect the skin from sunburns and aid in preventing premature ageing of the skin. Solar offers sun creams with SPF 4, 6, 8, 15, 25, and 30. Some are waterproof, and one even contains an insect repellent. Sun milks come in a spray form with SPF 4, 10, and 20 for children. The spray is less messy to apply, and can feel less heavy than a cream. All products available at various department stores, pharmacies, and handicraft shops across Estonia. ■

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2 This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

■ A bit further out

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city. Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3 Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2 Sadama Turg – Sadama 25

shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Changing Colours Cold weather doesn’t necessarily mean dark colours. This autumn, vibrant fabrics compliment neutral tones. Classic styles of shoes and boots are reinvented with flashes of colour. To get a peek at this season’s hottest looks, we went shopping with one of our account managers, Gerly, who had a blast trying on dif different outfits.

Esprit 74,00€ Gabor 89,00€

Esprit 54,00€

Clarks 174,00€

Clarks 99,00€ Neosens 194,00€ Neosen Clarks 144,00€

Q Crocs in Tallinn Everyone’s favourite comfy shoes can be found in Tallinn too! In recent years Crocs has been expanding their line beyond their original slip-on to include all kinds of other styles for men, women, and children. Our personal favourite – colourful rain boots, perfect for autumn.

Kristiine Keskus 2nd floor, Endla 45 Tallinn Solaris Keskus Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn B2 Clarks 134,00€

Gabor 199,00€

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

shopping

MOHITO

Bring some colour to your day at the office with this beautiful blue suit. • Trousers 39,99 € • Bag 24,99 € • Blouse 22,99 € • Bracelet 7,99 € • Jacket 49,99 €

A jewelled collar adds a touch of class to this simple yellow dress. • Dress 49,99 € • Bag 29,99 € • Shoes 29,99 €

Gold accessories dress this outfit up for a night on the town. • Blouse 17,99 € • Boots 47,99 € • Trousers 37,99 € • Bracelet 5,99 € • Bag 34,99 €

Simple lace and ribbon details on this pale pink blouse add a feminine touch to office wear. • Blouse 24,99 € • Purse 17,99 € • Skirt 34,99 € • Bracelet 7,99 € • Shoes 44,99 €

RESERVED A casual sweater is dressed up with a bit of sparkle around the collar. • Sweater 24,99€ • Shoes 54,99€ • Trousers 24,99€ • Purse 29,99€

Funky t-shirts and simple accessories are a match made in heaven. • T-shirt 7,99€ • Purse 29,99€ • Bracelet 5,99€ • Jeans, various styles 24,99€ - 34,99€

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Where to buy Shoes and purses from ABC King. All shops are conveniently located in Viru Keskus, close to the Old Town. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

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beauty

■ Mud treatments are available at the following spas in Estonia:

The Natural Look

Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Ranna tee 2, Haapsalu Laine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, Haapsalu Tervis Medical Spa, Seedri 6, Pärnu Värska Sanatorium, Väike-Rõsna Village, Värska, Põlva

Dr Marge Uibu talks about the everchanging face of dermatology. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Relax and Unwind TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS K. MIKKIN, L. MICHELSON

Spas in Estonia are by no means a new phenomenon. The first spa dates back to 1824 in Kuresaare after curative sea mud was found. The popularity of spas continued to grow and other spas offering curative mud treatments were built in Haapsalu, and Narva-Jõesuu. Today there are hundreds of spas in Estonia, located mainly near the towns of Pärnu, Haapsalu, Kuressaare, Narva-Jõesuu, and Värska, a town known for its mineral rich water. Day spas are found in the larger cities like Tallinn. Medical spas offer doctors consultations and wellness spas let you relax. There are even some spas that encourage you to

bring your children along for the waterpark and swimming pool, and offer procedures for them too. A spa holiday in Estonia is relaxing and fun for the whole family. In every Estonian spa hotel you will most likely find saunas, swimming facilities, as well as a long list of spa treatments –basically everything you need for a relaxing getaway. Since 2008, a classification system for Estonian Medical Spas has been put in place to ensure standardised quality, and the type of hotel. For example some spa hotels offer only relaxation treatments, but some offer medical treatments as well. Medical spa treatment packages can include a doctor's consultation and therapeutic treatments. The first mud treatment facilities were opened in the 1820s. Local resorts developed quickly, especially in Haapsalu and Narva-Jõesuu. “Estonia has always been known for its healing mud,” says Aire Toffer, manager at the Estonian Spa Association. “It is unique. The Russian Imperial

family visited frequently during the 19th century, and tourists from Finland came in the 1930s for the healing mud in Estonia.” Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood circulation, soothes sore muscles, but most importantly, it is relaxing. Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet period. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas. So how does it work exactly? Freshwater therapeutic mud contains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is a mild odour of rotten eggs. The treatment is performed usually as a wrap, where you lie down on a table on top of a blanket and are then covered in warm mud (41-45 C) and wrapped up. While the mud does not feel particularly hot at first, after a while you begin to sweat. ■

Did you know? ■ Each spa in Estonia is different. Visit www.healthrepublic.ee for a listing of all of the new spa treatments and offers. There are many medical spas all around Estonia. These are spas that have received special licensing to provide outpatient care. This includes rehabilitation services like massage therapy and exercise therapy, as well as dietary consultations. For a full listing of medical spas in Estonia visit the Estonian Spa Association website: www.estonianspas.eu

Finnish visitors to Tallinn may already be familiar with the popular Ihoakatemia Clinic in Helsinki. For those that are not, here is a brief introduction. Ihoakatemia opened in Helsinki in 2008 and is a dermatological and plastic surgery clinic. They specialise in aesthetic medical procedures and solutions for a variety of skin problems using the most modern technology and treatments, as well as top quality products. Chief physician Dr Marge Uibu has had many years of experien-

can continue treatment in Tallinn without a second consultation. “Clients just don’t have the time anymore to take off a week of work after an invasive surgical procedure,” explains Dr Uibu. “Most of our procedures are non-invasive and clients can be back at work after a weekend. We appreciate the result of a natural treatment and healthy look.” Clients visit Dermamed for a variety of reasons. They often want to reduce the signs of aging, pigmentation disorders, the appearance of wrinkles, skin laxity, telangiectasia (facial vascular

Dr Marge Uibu and her team at Dermamed in Tallinn.

ce in aesthetic dermatology. She finished medical school in Tartu and then went on to specialise in Dermatology in Finland. She has led many seminars abroad, teaching dermatologists in Paris, London, and Moscow, and regularly attends international conferences. Dermamed in Tallinn opened earlier this year. All of the employees at Dermamed have undergone training at Ihoakatemia in Finland to assure a seamless transition between the two clinics. This means that clients who begin treatment in Finland for example,

lesions), rosacea, acne, or have permanent hair removal. Clients must first have a consultation to discuss what outcome they are looking for. “What’s important is that the client feel good about themselves, about their appearance,” Dr Uibu explains. “People don’t want to look as though they have had a procedure done. They want something that looks natural and modern dermatological procedures have adapted to reflect this.” Each individual skin condition is assessed and the best treatment modality is decided upon, be it with laser, radiofrequency, surgically, or chemically, as no two people are alike. ■

Location Dermamed Metro Plaza, Viru väljak 2 Tallinn B2 Ihoakatemia Mannerheimintie 5C, 6th Floor Helsinki

nightlife

I DE E ™™ S SE EP PT TE EMMB BE ER R 2 20 01 13 3 T THHE E B BAAL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si all the must-see about the u o y lls te la h a M When you've seen sa ative Maarja-Lii n n n lli Ta . e if tl h ig n l unges in town! colourfu lo d n a s, b lu c s, b u p best gigs,

Raise Your Glass to Summer’s End The summer is over and it means only one thing – it’s time to send it off with a bang. The town is full of young people who are seeking great adventures in Tallinn’s mysterious nightlife. Follow my little guide to visit the hottest places in town and you’ll have a night to remember! Photo: Kaur Ilves

Many famous artists have taken to the stage at Rock Cafe.

■ SHOOTERS

■ ROCK CAFE

Shooters calls itself “the wildest bar in Estonia where people know there’s always a reason to party.” I have to agree with that – it doesn’t matter if you go there on Monday or Friday, you will always have a blast. Shooters specialises in shots. Be sure to keep an eye out for happy hour specials, every day from 17.00 – 23.00. It’s the perfect place to party if you don’t want to pay a cover charge but still want to dance like crazy and have a great time.

Rock Cafe is the biggest rock club in Estonia. It was closed for almost the entire summer and is ready to start the coming season with new energy and many great upcoming events. The club is located in an old factory building, which means the atmosphere is really different and a bit rebellious. It has the best lighting and sound system, a big stage, and through the years numerous famous artists have taken to it for unforgettable concerts. In September the main focus is on Estonian music. It’s the

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Paar Veini is a casual wine bar, and nice place to meet friends before heading to the club.

perfect opportunity to get acquainted with some great local bands.

Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn C4

■ KOHVIK NOORUS Or Youth Café, as it translates to English, is another shot bar in Tallinn with a different artistic atmosphere and great location. The owners say they opened the bar to keep the youth unspoiled. Well, in my opinion it’s not entirely true because the drinks are

Kohvik Noorus

■ PAAR VEINI

locals. The atmosphere is really vintage and not too fancy, as wine bars usually tend to be. It’s a nice place to chill with friends before hitting the clubs or just relax and enjoy good company. The house wine is only 2.50 a glass or 10 for one litre. DJs spin regularly. If you feel like you have a little bohemian soul inside of you that wants to get out, then this place is definitely a must-go! ■

Paar Veini is a really popular wine bar among the young, trendy

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Lai 10, Tallinn Old Town G1

Estonian Music OUTLOUDZ Outloudz are an electro pop band that has gained wide popularity in a very short period of time. Their second single “I wanna meet Bob Dylan” came second at the Estonian Song Contest in 2011, and won third place at the International Song Writing Competition 2011 in the pop category, where it won over 115,000 other contestants. They have won several Estonian music awards and after listening to their calming and emotional album you just can’t stop yourself from humming along.

Photo: Andrei Ozdoba

cheap and the company is great, setting a pretty high standard for other bars in town. A lot of creativity went into naming the shots; even reading the menu makes you giggle. If you are young or young at heart, then this is a place you have to go!

www.outloudz.com

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ SSEEPPTTEEMMBBEERR 22001133

nightlife

Photo: Jake Ferra

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar

Sports Clayhills

Tatari 1, Tallinn

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Karaoke

Drink Baar

Gelsomino Karaoke

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1

Hell Hunt

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2

Mad Murphy’s

The Shamrock Pub

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Nightclubs Arena 3

THE HOTTEST CLUBS IN THE OLD TOWN!

Cigar Lounges

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

Chicago 1933

The Bank Club 777

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3

La Casa del Habano

Bibabo

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1

Sigari Maja

BonBon

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

CatHouse

Estonian Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2

■ CLUB PRIVÉ

■ CLUB HOLLYWOOD

■ STUDIO

Club Privé is currently one of the hottest spots in Estonian club land. It’s known for its glamorous atmosphere and modern interior, where people who love music and fashion come to meet. At the weekends the age limit is 20 and there’s “face control” at the door, so it’s better to leave your bad attitude at home. Every Saturday the most popular R&B, soul and hip-hop party called “Kriim” takes place, which you won’t want to miss!

Club Hollywood is one of the oldest nightclubs in Tallinn, now in its 17th year. It has the perfect location at the edge of the Old Town and is located close to all the best pubs and bars in Tallinn. Every Wednesday is Ladie’s Night (ladies get in for free), special events are held on Thursdays, Fridays are for hip hop and R&B, and on Saturdays famous DJs spin the best club music. Club Hollywood is always full of energy and guarantees a proper night out.

Club Studio has been on the Estonian club scene for only 2 years but despite this, it’s one of the most popular nightclubs in Estonia. It has two floors and it’s powered by a Function-1 sound system. The upper floor is devoted more to electronic styles and downstairs you can enjoy Hip-Hop, R&B, and new and old urban. Due to its popularity, it’s always pretty crowded. Book a VIP table with a bottle service, and go and get your groove on! ■

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Panoraam

Live Music Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar Hunt Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Rock Café

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Parlament Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Partei Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Plub Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

■ Museums

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Maiden’s Tower

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Recently renovated and opened to the public earlier this summer, Neitsitorn is one of the 20 surviving towers of the Old Town’s fortification wall. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The history of the tower (Meghede torne) dates back to the 1300s. The Maiden’s Tower was erected between 1370-1373 when the wall was built in the Danish King’s Garden. During the Livonian War (1558-1583) the tower was damaged and thus lost its military functions. From 1842-1960 the tower was used as a residence and was even home to one of Estonia’s top architects Karl Burman after World War Two. In 1981 a café was opened inside the tower and then closed in the 1990s. Following many years of neglect and its eventual closing, the Maiden’s Town Museum and Café is once again open for business. After two years of renovations and visitors can enjoy a a great café, and one of the best views of Tallinn. The tower is adjacent to the Kiek in de kök tower. ■

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

■ Museums

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Maiden’s Tower Museum and Café (Neitsitorn muuseum ja kohvik) Lossiplats 11/Lühike jalg 9a, Tallinn Old Town I1

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Location

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum) Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Tallinn City Museum branch museums: includes the following

www.linnamuuseum.ee

1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003. The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00 Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, 5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street 7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers’ museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum) Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

ALTERNATIVE ART

Read articles online at

While the collections at the KUMU Art Museum are stunning, why not visit a small gallery for a taste of Estonian contemporary art. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn has many small galleries, and one could spend a few days going through them. Here is a short list of some of the more conveniently located galleries, and what’s on display throughout the month of September.

Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti ja Disainimuuseum)

Tallinna Kunstihoone Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town J1 Turn the corner and you’ll find this contemporary gallery facing Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). Upcoming exhibits include: 23 August – 15 September: Enn Põldroos; 19 September – 13 October: Skulptuurimasinad (Sculpture Machines)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town B1 Admire the works of Estonian applied art, as well as some temporary exhibits. This month through to 15 September: 90 Years of Ceramics; through to 22 September: Plates.

City Gallery (Linnagalerii) Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1 There is always something bold and intriguing on display in the City Gallery that will certainly catch your eye. 15-8 August: Carin Lansberg; 12 September - 6 October: Anna-Stina Treumond.

City Gallery

Draakoni Gallery Pikk 18, Tallinn Old Town B2 Appropriately named after the dragons that decorate the unusual building this gallery is located in, the Dragon Gallery holds small exhibits and sells art as well. This month: 26 August- 7 September: Kaia Kaskila; 9-28 September.

Hobusepea Gallery

Draakoni Gallery

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town G2 This little gallery is run by the Estonian Artists’ Union, and is tucked away on a small street in Tallinn’s Old Town. Upcoming: 28 August – 9 September: Young Artists Award winner Holger Loodus; 11-30 September: Manfred Dubov Kalatski.

www.balticguide.ee

Saku Suurhall 4-6 October 2013

Walpurgisnacht Show from Germany Piruett Gymnastics Club Elite Group Uku Suviste Songs Small pony quadrille Tallinn Grand Prix jumping & FEI World Cup Freestyle dressage

Tickets are available from Piletilevi and programme info www.tallinnhorseshow.ee

transport

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

tram routes

Car Hire

1 2

KOPLI

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

KALAMAJA

PELGURANNA

PORT A, B terminals D terminal

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same MERIMETSA ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

VIRU OLD TOWN

1 3

KADRIORG

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on

SIKUPILLI

driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. VEERENNI BUS

STATION

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

2 4 ÜLEMISTE

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

AIRPORT

3 4 TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

ROCCA AL MARE

Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

PORT

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee

■ BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Taxis Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2, bus no. 17, no. 23

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

■ BY TRAIN: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

■ BY AIR:

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

Emergency Numbers: PU H E L I N N UPhone MERO T : P O L IPOLICE I S I 1 1 0 110, , P E LEMERGENCY A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 , AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Parking Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially during working hours. Public parking on city streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour, depending on the area. Blue parking signs will tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some areas, including the Old Town require you

to be for parking at night. Parking passes can by purchased from machines or kiosks. Remember to leave your parking clock (or a written note) indicating the time when you first parked.

■ BY SEA: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport. ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3

sightseeing in Tallinn

Outside of Tallinn

PHOTO JAAK NILSON

PIKAKARI

KAKUMÄE

Outside of the Old Town

PIRITA

STROOMI OLD TOWN

HARKU Harkun n j järvi

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

■ KALAMAJA & KOPLI Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870 many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafes began to open, and the area continues to grow as the waterfront continues to be restored.

■ PATAREI PRISON (PATAREI VANGLA) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour. ■ KADRIORG

■ SEAPLANE HARBOUR (LENNUSADAM) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail services. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after the wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

■ PIRITA Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see

and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day and is by far the most popular in Tallinn. Rowing boats, canoes and waterbikes can be hired from near the bridge and provides the opportunity for a relaxing exploration of the river. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn

■ ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (EESTI VABAÕHUMUUSEUM) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

■ OTHER BEACHES AROUND TALLINN With the onset of summer, locals are flocking to the beach to relax, cool off, and to soak up as much of the energy giving sunlight as possible, given the long and dark winters here. Aside from the main beach at Pirita, the city is blessed with several other public swimming beaches including Stroomi (North Tallinn, Pelguranna 30), Harku (Haabersti - West Tallinn, Paldiski mnt), Kakumäe (Haabersti), and Pikakari (Paljassaare). All have certified lifeguards on duty 9:00–20:00 on weekdays and 9:0021:00 at weekends. Facilities typically include changing stalls, showers, toilets, sports and play areas, as well as food and drink facilities. These locations can easily be accessed on foot or by bike along the well-kept cycle paths, or take public transport. For something a bit more secluded, hire a car and head outside the city to one of the rural beaches Laulasmaa, Lohusalu, Salmistu or Kaberneeme. ■ ISLANDS AROUND TALLINN If you have some free time why not escape Tallinn and visit some of the small islands located near the capital. Prangli Island has preserved its native surroundings that date back to the 13th century. Another ferry takes you to the legendary Naissaar Island (Women's Island), which was a former military base and nature area. Here you can explore the sights, which include artillery stations, a Soviet sea mine factory,

a working railway, a museum, and church. Located 14 km from Tallinn is the island of Aegna. Aegna is a protected conservation area and also boasts old defence ruins, Estonia's largest densely arranged boulders, an old cemetery, a magical stone maze, walking trails and camping sites.

■ LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK Lahemaa National Park, east of Tallinn on the road to Narva, was Estonia’s first and largest national park and is an important site as it provides the visitor with a unique examination of the country’s characteristic landscapes, ranging from stony and sandy beaches, picturesque bogs, pine forests, old-growth forests, cliff forests and rivers cut into the limestone cliffs. Aside from these natural wonders, you will discover significant historical and cultural sites like the old fishing village at Käsmu and the remains of Soviet era buildings that dot the coastline of this previously closed area. Architectural treasures can be found in the well-preserved manor houses like those at Palmse, Vihula and Sagadi. The area can be explored by car or bicycle and a variety of accommodation options from camping to manor house hotels are possible, as are day tours from Tallinn.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

useful information

TALLINN

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www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic. Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Central Post Offices Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Phone calls ■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide

Tallinn Card is available at:

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

TOURIST INFORMATION

Free Wifi ■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

12-13 OCTOBER 2013

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

SAKU SUURHALL 2ND INTERNATIONAL TEDDY BEAR AND DOLL EXHIBITION www.artplanet.eu Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Event and Concert Tickets ■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their most central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

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