Soviet era cafĂŠs and French cuisine in Tallinn Upcoming concerts: Alice Cooper, Scorpions
Fun for everyone What to do indoors – shooting ranges, bowling, paintball, swimming and more!
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ENGLISH EDITION
Your free guide to Estonia
O C T O B E R 2 0 13
High end shopping at Foorum
The he best things what Th where to seedoandin when Estonia
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editorial
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
Fall colours
T
he days are getting shorter and the nights a little colder and longer. With that, Tallinn moves inside for the long winter ahead. Autumn may not be the driest time to visit Estonia, but it is indeed the most stylish. Tallinn Fashion Week comes to town at the end of the month. For the seventh year in a row top Estonian designers come together to showcase the best of Estonian fashion design. For those looking for something a little more casual, yet still indoors, there is no shortage of indoor entertainment. Paintball, bowling, billiards, and shooting ranges will keep the adventurous spirit inside of you alive. In September we asked you what you liked to do in Tallinn for fun. Thanks to those who answered –we’ve added even more activities and attractions to our
paper, indoors and out. Shopping, relaxation, sports, concerts, eating and drinking, and a nightlife guide that will keep you partying into the early morning hours, fill the pages of this month’s issue. If you’re not following us on Facebook, what are you waiting for? Regular updates means you won’t miss a thing. We’ve also recently joined Twitter too! Our new website is now up and running with regular updates on interesting events and other things to do each week.
Happy travels!
Contents 3 5 6
Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief
editorial sightseeing day trip
restaurants
October Highlights 01 A SYMPHONY OF ROCK The Armenian-American singer Serj Tankian (System of a Down) will bring his solo show to Tallinn on 16th October. The singer will perform with a 52-member symphony orchestra at Saku Suurhall. Tankian will perform new songs as well as some old favourites.
8-9 restaurants spicy food in Tallinn soviet nostalgia french cuisine
shopping
02 HANDICRAFTS AND MUSIC Get your Christmas shopping done early at the St. Martin’s Fair from 7-10 November at the Saku Suurhall. Enjoy traditional music, handicrafts, and delicious food –all under one roof!
10 september events 12-13 shopping 14-15 entertainment 17 health & beauty 18-19 nightlife 21 museum 22 transport 23 around Estonia 24-26 maps and information
Photo: Art Teddy Planet
03 TEDDY BEAR PICNIC Teddy bears will take over Saku Suurhall from 12-13 October at Art Teddy Planet. This annual event brings together artists, collectors, and bear lovers of all kinds. Participate in workshops or just have a browse. This year’s theme is fashion and bears.
04 AUTUMN JAZZ EXPLOSION This autumn jazz event celebrates Raimond Valgre’s 100th anniversary. Enjoy concerts all around Estonia: 5th October at the Pärnu Concert Hall; 7th October at the Tartu Vanemuise Concert Hall; and 8th October at the Paide Cultural Centre. Listen to Finnish Sami music on 18th October in the Kumu auditorium performed by Illa Pirtjärvi and Ulda.
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OCTOBER 2013
Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov
PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O
'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.
Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477
Photo: Marc Theis
@ balticguide_en
The Silveston Saaremaa Rally 2013 will take place for the 46th year in a row on the gravel roads of Saaremaa Island from 11-12 October. Cars will race for a distance of 450km. The rally starts and finishes in the island’s capital Kuressaare.
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05 RALLY AMONG THE JUNIPERS
INDIAN RESTAURANT Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices
Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square Open Everyday 11-23 MĂźndi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)
FÜrsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjÜvägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!
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Irish coffee 4â‚ŹĂŠUĂŠVodka 2â‚Ź
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Pepper Steak 13.90â‚ŹĂŠUĂŠSouth Indian chicken curry 8â‚Ź
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Grilled Salmon 9.90â‚ŹĂŠUĂŠGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90â‚Ź
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House Wine 2.90â‚ŹĂŠUĂŠAppetisers 2â‚Ź
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Viru
Massor av härliga smakupplevelser! New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.
Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.
Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.
New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town
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Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15
Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. KÜket Üppet frün kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vün/1st oor, 100m frün A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee
The city's best pizza! Small pizza 3.90 ďƒśďƒśďƒś
Large pizza 5.90 ďƒśďƒśďƒś
Family size pizza 11.90 ďƒśďƒśďƒś
Salad 3.50
Open everyday 11-23 Väike-Karja 6, Old Town, Tallinn Phone +372 641 871 8 +372 505 561 6 info@pizzagrande.ee www.pizzagrande.ee
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RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!
FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE
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sightseeing
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
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Photo: T. Tuul
Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT : KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.
Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.
Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf
Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.
Kiek in de kök
Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.
Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.
Katariina käik
Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.
Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels
St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.
The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”
Photo: J. Nilson
KGB Museum
Town Hall Square
A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.
Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.
sightseeing
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
Day trip
Photo: Jaak Nilson
TALLINN
Maardu
Paldiski Keila
Outside of the Old Town by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.
Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.
■ KALAMAJA & KOPLI Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .
■ PATAREI PRISON (PATAREI VANGLA) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour. ■ KADRIORG
■ SEAPLANE HARBOUR (LENNUSADAM) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI
Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.
■ PIRITA Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:
Saue
Tallinn – Paldiski With the days getting shorter, and a little cooler, it’s safe to say you won’t be headed to the beach for sunbathing. If you’re looking for a bit of history and some beautiful natural scenery, then this is the day trip for you.
St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn
Prior to 1994, Paldiski was a Soviet military base and home to 16,000 military personnel. After 1994, and after the military base closed, the population reduced quickly to about 4,300, its population today. The town has been in a state of decay, but slowly seems to be turning around with new investments and development, in particular near the port. Just outside of Paldiski is the Pakri peninsula. The peninsula itself is stunning, with tall limestone cliffs, and is home to the rare black guillemots, which look like small penguins. The Soviet ruins (abandoned bunkers and military debris) that are scattered along the peninsula are being torn down to clean up the area. Other attractions include the red lighthouse, a tsarist era train station, and the Pakri wind farm. ■
Location
Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn
Paldiski is located about 50km west of Tallinn. It’s easy to get there by bus or train. Trains leave from Balti jaam train station and take just over an hour to get there. For train timetables visit: www.edel.ee
Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.
A quick history of the city of Tallinn ■ ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (EESTI VABAÕHUMUUSEUM) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.
The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital
and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK
HEALTHY FRESH DELICIOUS PASTA & PIZZA from
4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999
OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24
BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!
FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25
VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!
UP TO THE SKY BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN
CRAZY DAYS
WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEB WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN CEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETO ETORN
RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW
9.–13.10.2013 Wed-Sun 8-22
The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible. Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.
LIIVALAIA 53 • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE
Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open daily 11-23.
restaurants
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
■ NYNY
■ The Meriton Buffets
A new restaurant New York, New York (NYNY) opened its doors on the edge of the city centre. The restaurant offers inexpensive lunches and a good selection of wine, including some cocktails.
The Meriton chain of hotel restaurants now includes a buffet. On weekdays Wok & Grill offers a warm buffet for 14€ and a wok buffet for 18€. Together they cost 28€ and the offer lasts until the evening. The buffet in the photo is the VanaMoskva restaurant. Cold foods cost 7€ and warm foods 14€. The buffet is offered daily from 12.0015.00 and 18.00-21.00. Asian Restaurant Wok&Grill - Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel 1st Floor Paldiski mnt. 4,Tallinn B1. Vana Moskva - Pikk 33, Tallinn Old Town G2.
New York New York - Kentmanni 4/ Sakala 10, Tallinn B2.
Photo: Mats Õun
Old world style and modern cuisine are paired at Bordoo.
Bon appetite! French inspired cuisine in Tallinn’s Old Town.
French TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, MATS ÕUN Photo: Mats Õun
Generous portions at Le Chateau.
Sauces at Chakra.
Spice it up! TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV Bold flavours and colours characterise the spicy dishes at these four great Tallinn restaurants.
If you are craving some spice visit Chakra for some wonderful Indian food. It’s located a little off the beaten track in Tallinn’s Old Town in a tiny passageway. The three dining rooms are richly decorated with bright fabrics that hang from the ceiling. The menu is long, offering everything from veggies to seafood, chicken and lamb. What’s even better here is that spicy means spicy. Even one chilli symbol packs a bit of a punch on the palette. Centrally located on one of the main streets in Tallinn, Bollywood is an Indian Thai restaurant with some modern flare. Dishes come elegantly presented, and the dining room is colourfully decorated against modern white walls. The menu offers a good balance
Located in the cellar of an ancient building in Tallinn’s Old Town, Le Chateau is the perfect place for cosy and romantic dinner on a brisk autumn night. The cellar is divided into a few sections, with thick drapes separating private dining rooms. Le Chateau is advertised as “the musketeers’ restaurant,” meaning you can expect generous portions of food and dishes fit for kings.
A bit of everything at Spice. of both Indian and Thai cuisine –think tandoori chicken and red curry prawns. Can’t decide which way to go? Try one of the appetiser platters. The vegetarian or Bollywood’s appetiser platter will give you a good sampling.
If you love foie gras, this is the place to come for a delicious terrine served with saffron apples. The traditional onion soup was also a warming and filling starter. The beef fillet, richly topped with goose liver butter and porcini sauce comes cooked to your liking. This is a place where medium rare, actually means medium rare. Another French favourite is Bordoo, located inside the Three Sisters Hotel. Here, old world charm meets new world style, and the food is certainly no exception. Fresh local ingredients are used for creative dishes that bring together Estonian and Spice offers Indian and Thai dishes as well, but with a few European favourites like chicken à la king and spaghetti carbonara thrown in for good measure. The Indian and Thai dishes are adequately spicy and reasonably priced for such a centrally located restaurant. Service is friendly and fast too! Chedi is certainly not the cheapest of the lot, but worth every penny. Dishes appear small, but after sharing a few appetisers and a main you’ll barely have room for dessert. Try the dim sum platters, or the fried squid to start. As a main you can’t go wrong with the roasted duck, and for something very spicy, try the spicy chicken with cashew nuts.
French cuisine. Choose between a four or five course menu for dinner that changes every few weeks. A sommelier is on hand to help you choose wine to suit the menu perfectly. At lunch the concept is a little bit different. The menu offers some classic favourites like Caesar salad, burgers, a club sandwich, and even fish chips. And on Sundays enjoy a brunch buffet. ■
Location Le Chateau Lai 19, Tallinn Old Town A2. Bordoo (Three Sisters Hotel) Pikk 71/Tolli 2, Tallinn Old Town A2.
Location Chakra Bremeni käik 1, Tallinn Old Town G3. Bollywood Pikk 31, Tallinn Old Town G2. Spice Mündi 4/Pikk 14, Tallinn Old Town G1. Chedi Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town F2.
Stylish comfort at Bollywood.
restaurants
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
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■ Elutuba
■ Dereku Burger
The suburb of Kalamaja welcomes another new restaurant. The newly opened Elutuba (Living room) is open every day except for Sundays and Mondays. The restaurant organises many events and there are even guest chefs offering different cuisines in the kitchen from time to time. The difference between this place and all the other restaurants in the area is that this one has white tablecloths.
The burger master Derek Ewen will open his first Tallinn location this fall. Dereku Burger is set to open in the Lootsi Keskus, where the menu promises to be longer than that of the flagship location in Saaremaa. Dereku Burger - Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8 Tallinn A3. Kuressaare Turg, Tallinna mnt 5 Kuressaare.
Elutuba - Vabriku 6, Tallinn A1.
SOVIET NOSTALGIA There are still a few authentic Soviet cafés left in Tallinn. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Sandwiches are freshly made everyday.
Come early and you'll get pastries straight from the oven.
A popular meeting spot for locals.
Walking into the Energia Café you are immediately taken back in time. Established in 1964, this café is located next to Kaubamaja department store and has served hungry Tallinners for decades now. The menu has almost remained the same, just like its clientele. The red panelled walls and interior give the feeling of stability, its décor has only changed slightly since its opening. Looking out the windows you see a completely different world, the modern Kaubamaja with its customers rushing in and out of its doors, can be seen across the street.
The mood could be gauged as calm, even homey. Soviet era music is playing quietly in the background. Grey-haired guests fill the seats and enjoy the café’s cuisine. Don’t go to the café on an empty stomach. Starving, I ordered seljanka soup, a salmon sandwich, as well as a strawberry cake and an “apple bomb.” The soups and the sandwich were filling, and by the time I made it to the apple bomb, it was already hard to find room in my stomach for it. The entire meal, including a drink cost 6, which in comparison to many other city cafés is very cheap. The Narva Café is located on Narva mantee in Tallinn’s city centre, and draws guests in with delicious smells wafting from the opening door. At the counter you are faced with a dilemma. It’s filled with wiener and meat pasties, pizza pockets, cheese buns, pastries, and rum cakes. The carrot pasties caught my eye so I decided to try those. The
warm pasties almost melted in my mouth. Narva Café’s prices were also very cheap. The pasties and pastries cost between 50-85 cents, and a mid-priced warm lunch goes for 5. A seljanka costs about 2. The menu has a lot more variety than at Energia Café –they offer omelettes, as well as salty and sweet filled crêpes. There is even a selection of dishes for vegetarians. You can order cookies and cakes to take away. Cake prices start at 11/kg. ■
Location Energia Kohvik, Kaubamaja 4, Tallinna. Kaardikood B2. Narva Kohvik, Narva mnt. 10, Tallinna. Kaardikood B3.
The atmosphere in these Soviet cafés is truly unique; such service style almost doesn’t exist anymore.
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october events
Photo: E.M. Concert Group
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
■ Alice Cooper rises from the dead, again
■ Tallinn Fashion Week
The Rock-n’-Roll-Hall-of-Famer Alice Cooper (65) needs no introduction. His heavy metal hits Poison, Hey Stoopid, and School’s Out still play frequently on the radio. His latest tour goes by the name of Raise the Dead. It’s been said that this show is by far Cooper’s best. The young Australian guitarist, Orianthi Panagaris will play together with the band. Tickets are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks, starting from 39€.
For the seventh year in a row, fashion returns to Tallinn. Last year the fashion event gathered over 4000 visitors and received great media attention. This year, 13 fashion shows are planned, in which 20 fashion designers will take part. In addition to this, the Kuldnõel Gala (or Golden Needle Gala) will take place on 26th October, where three silver needle and two gold needle nominees will show their designs.
9 October Nokia Concert Hall (Nokia Kontserdimaja), Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn, B2.
24-26 October Salme Cultural Centre (Kultuurikeskus), Salme 12, Tallinn. Photo: Tallinn Fashion Week
■ At-a-glance:
Photo: E.M. Concert Group
Photo: Raimond Raadik
Estonia vs. Turkey 11 October A. Le Coq Arena, Asula 4c, Tallinn The Estonian football team has had its struggles over the years, but has managed a victory against Andorra, both at home and abroad. In October Estonia will play Turkey, where the last match ended in a loss of 3-0 for Estonia in Istanbul. Estonians believe in their home field, and in miracles. The close matches with Northern Ireland and Slovenia are fresh in the minds of Estonians. The match starts at 21.30, and tickets are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks for 12-20€.
Seto Culture Week 7-13 October Maremäe Parish, Southeastern Estonia This is a week-long cultural event for the whole family, including several workshops, competitions and the celebration of Peko Day.
Suzanne Vega 21 October Nokia Concert Hall (Nokia Kontserdimaja), Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn, B2 A pioneer among singer-songwriters, Suzanne Vega’s work continues to surprise. See her live in Tallinn for an exclusive acoustic concert with Gerry Leonard on guitar. Tickets are available from Piletilevi, starting at 29€.
Pablo Francisco – Live And Kickin’ Tour 17 October Russian Cultural Centre (Vene kultuurikeskus), Mere pst 5, Tallinn B2 See international comedy superstar Pablo Francisco live in Tallinn this October. As one of the most popular touring comedians, Pablo is known for his unbelievable impersonations and drop-dead funny spoofs. Tickets start at 30€ and are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks.
THE SCORPIONS Rock On The favourite German band will tour at least once more and stop in Tallinn along the way.
The Scorpions announced three years ago that they would put their instruments away and conclude their 45 year career. Thanks to loyal fans and top selling concerts the band decided to rock on. They gathered so much inspiration in fact that they even released a new album.
This year’s tour is appropriately named Rock n’ Roll Forever, and with this the band is not yet retiring. The band’s top hits include Wind of Change, Rock You Like a Hurricane, and Still Loving You, which will certainly keep fans rocking at Saku Suurhall. The
band has many fans in Estonia, so it’s wise to get your tickets early. Ticket start at 29 and are available from Piletilevi. ■
Location 12 November Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt 104b, Tallinn.
Photo: Art Teddy Planet
Art Teddy Planet An event for teddy bear and doll lovers of all ages. For the second year in a row, this exhibit brings together teddy bear artists, doll makers, collectors, handicraft shops, and doll and teddy bear lovers all under the same roof. This is the only fair of its kind in the Baltics, where you can see so many different types of teddy bears –everything from antique bears to modern design bears.
This year’s theme is Teddy Fashion Weekend. This means that many designers and artists from different countries will be bringing their exclusive bears and dolls to Tallinn. Every work is unique, full of the artists’ energy and love. Many of the bears and dolls are one of a kind. Visitors will also have the opportunity to try their hand at
making their own teddy bears or dolls under the guidance of some of the best artists. Don't miss this great exhibit. ■
Location 12-13 October Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt 104b, Tallinn.
WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!
An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia bread baking on Härjapea farm on October 4-6 cooking Sundays on Härjapea farm calligraphy exercises at Kuie School every weekend horse and carriage rides, a village shop from the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn Open daily at 10-17 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. Vabaþhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.
-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043
DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356 ./5 5"--*// r XXX DPOUNPEB FF 5FM r 0QFO .PO 'SJ 4BU
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MAD MURPHY ’S
Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00
irish pub & grill • Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mßndi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee
www.madmurphys.ee
www.balticguide.ee
shopping
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
Its modern design is both simple and luxurious.
Foorum is centrally located in the city centre.
Luxury, beauty, and glamour Top fashion brands and restaurants for every taste can be found at the Foorum Shopping Centre. TEXT: JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERKOV
Located in the city centre, Foorum is the one stop shop for fashionistas. In the beautiful boutiques you will find clothing, jewellery, watches, eyeglasses, shoes, children’s clothing, and cosmetics. Top brands like Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Emporio Armani, DKNY, and Diesel are found all under one roof. Many of the shops are located on the same floor. The shopping centre is clean and tidy. In addition to the fashion boutiques at Foorum, you will also find Thaya Shop & Salon, and Babor Spa. Sewing and stitching needs are covered at the Kangas ja Nööp shop. The selection of restaurants is just as international. The German owned Italian restaurant chain Vapiano offers fresh pastas and pizza quickly, and for a reasonable price. St. Patrick’s is an Irish pub, which in addition to a great selection of beers, you will also find tasty food. The bistro and café Bonaparte offers French cuisine and Cubanita brings Caribbean rhythm to Foorum. ■
Freshly made pizza at Vapiano.
Relax and unwind at Babor Spa.
Location Foorum Shopping Centre (Kaubanduskeskus Foorum), Narva mnt 5, Tallinn B2.
Personalise your meal at Vapiano.
Kangas ja Nööp
Bonaparte
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
shopping
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Shopping in Tallinn ■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.
■ Central Shopping
Centres Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2 Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.
Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2 This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.
■ A bit further out All of your luxury shopping needs covered.
What’s inside: ■ The French fashion label Morgan sells clothing for the modern woman. ■ S’Nob offers three Danish clothing brands. ■ In addition to clothes, Replay sells sunglasses, shoes, and bags. ■ Coocon specialises in knitwear and sells includes brands like August Silk, Signature, Wico, and Pierre Cavallo. ■ Noa Noa clothing is comfortable and timelessly stylish. ■ The boutique Nju sells some of the most famous fashion brands like BCBG, Max Studio, Kenneth Cole, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Michael Kors. ■ Underwear, beachwear, and
Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city. Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.
■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.
■ Food Markets
■
■ ■ ■
■
other clothing for both men and women can be found at Millennia. At Marc & André you will find over 300 styles of swimwear, and 150 different designs of women’s underwear and sleepwear. Socks and leggings can be found at Sokisahtel. Pilgrim and Goldtime offer jewellery and watches. Eyeglasses are available from Lens Optika. The latest footwear styles are available from Salamander and Rem, including brands like Clarks, Lloyd, Lacoste, Ecco, Baldini, Calvin Klein, and Gabor. Polarn O. Pyret sells quality
Swedish children’s and maternity wear. ■ Lush uses natural ingredients in their handmade cosmetics. ■ Thaya Shop & Salon and Babor Spa sell cosmetics as well. ■ Kangas ja Nööp covers all of your sewing needs. Restaurants: ■ Vapiano – Italian dishes prepared while you wait. ■ Bonaparte – a traditional French café. ■ Cubanita – a Caribbean themed bar/restaurant. ■ St. Patrick’s – a pub with great pub fare.
Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3 Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.
Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2 Sadama Turg – Sadama 25
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entertainment
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
In the news
Sports & other adventures With the weather getting cooler and the days considerably shorter, keep yourself occupied indoors with activities and sports for all ages. Agreement for Rail Baltic Project Signed Government ministers from Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, and Finland formed the joint company Rail Baltic last month with the signing of a document in Vilnius. The company’s headquarters will be based in Riga. Rail Baltic will be a high-speed railroad connecting Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania with EU standard tracks.
Roman-Era Sacrificial Site Discovered What may be Estonia’s largest known Roman-era sacrificial site was discovered in the north eastern town of Kohtla-Vanaküla. Archaeology enthusiast Mihhail Stadnik was in the area looking for Viking coins and discovered the site. Arrowheads and axe blades will have to be tested for remnants of wood, which will make their carbon dating possible.
Ryanair reduces number of flights from Tallinn The Irish budget airline Ryanair will reduce the number of flights from Tallinn starting in November. Connections to Bremen, Barcelona, Dublin, Frankfurt, Manchester, and Stockholm will stop, leaving only London, Düsseldorf, Milan, and Oslo for the winter months.
Debenhams to open in Rocca al Mare The British department store Debenhams opened their first retail location in the Baltics in September at Rocca al Mare shopping centre in Tallinn. The department store stretches over two floors and covers about 3000 square metres together with a café and cosmetics area. The retail chain currently has 240 stores in 29 countries.
New shops to open in Viru Keskus Two new stores are set to open in the Viru Shopping Centre in the spring of 2014. The Spanish company Massimo Dutti will open its first location in Estonia. The store in Viru Keskus will be 407 square metres and will sell clothing and accessories for both men and women. The British company River Island also announced plans to open a location in Viru Keskus. Their store will cover 700 square metres and offer clothing and accessories for men, women, and children.
An instructor is always beside you. "You don't need to have any previous experience," says Martin Bahovski.
Guns, guns, guns! TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Ever wonder what it’s like to shoot an AK-47, or Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Desert Eagle .50? Well wonder no more! The Tactical Shooting range is Tallinn’s best-equipped shooting range. “You don’t need to have any previous experience,” explains Martin Bahovski, one of the owners of Tactical. “We take you through all of the necessary safety precautions and explain how to use each of the guns. An instructor is always beside you.” Really there is nothing to be afraid of. Tactical offers you the experience of holding and firing the same types of weapons that were used in top action films --think James Bond’s Walther PPK, Dirty Harry’s .44 Magnum, Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Desert Eagle .50, AK-47s, 9mm Glocks, revolvers, pump-action shotguns
and more. It’s not only for the adrenaline rush, but also for the history. War history buffs will also be interested in ex-military rifles. The instructors can explain the history in great detail of all of the weapons at Tactical. Bookings are a must. Tactical can take groups of up to 30 people. Taktikalise laskmise keskus Kopli 103, Tallinn.
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
entertainment
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Bowling & Billiards There are quite a number of places to go bowling in Tallinn, the largest being Al Mare Bowling with 12 lanes. Kuulsaal Bowling is an attractive entertainment centre situated conveniently in the heart of Tallinn and has the closest lanes to the Old Town, offering cosmic bowling and 12 lanes as well. They also have seven pool tables where you can try your hand at snooker and Russian billiards. Zelluloosi Bowling offers nine and ten pin bowling, as well as cosmic bowling.
Two waterslides and a 50m swimming pool can be found at Kalev Spa. Bowling is fun for the whole family.
Al Mare Bowling, Paldiski mnt 96, Tallinn. Kuulsaal Bowling, Mere pst 6, Tallinn A2 . Zelluloosi Bowling, Tartu mnt 80b, Tallinn.
Paintball & Laser Tag ture park is 1000 m2 in size and has paths running as high as 16 metres! There are 20 different areas of varying difficulty. The Segway route also has different elements including a railway and slalom. Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn.
Spas & Swimming Pools Viimsi Spa is located just a little way out of Tallinn and has different pools, including a children’s pool and many different kinds of saunas. Viimsi Spa Hotel, Randvere tee 11, Viimsi.
Located in the heart of Tallinn, Kalev Spa has a great water park for children, and saunas for the adults. Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark, Aia 18, Tallinn.
■ ESTONIAN
PAINTBALL CLUB
■ MEGAZONE
ADVENTURE CENTRE Have a blast and battle your friends in a game of laser tag. Located conveniently between the city centre and the airport, Megazo-
ne Adventure Centre covers all of your laser tag needs, all at a reasonable cost. Megazone also houses Estonia's first adventure park with a Segway route. The adven-
The Estonian Paintball Club offers two options: smaller groups of four to twelve can battle it out in a large arena, or if the weather is nice and you can get eight to 50 people together, shoot it out in an old military base outside of town. Madara 22a, Tallinn.
There is more than just trampolines at the Skypark Trampoline Centre.
Trampoline Centres ■ SKYPARK
The Estonian Paintball Club offers indoor paintball for groups of four to twelve.
■ ZELLULOOSI
TRAMPOLINE CENTRE
TRAMPOLINE CENTRE
Feel like a kid again in this large trampoline complex with a separate children’s area that includes slides, a climbing gym, and inflated trampoline house.
Located right near the bowling alley in the same complex, Zelluloosi Trampoline Centre offers 300m2 of trampolines including 18 floor trampolines and 12 wall trampolines. ■
Pärnu mnt. 139E, Tallinn. Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.
A beautiful smile creates new opportunities!
LUMEN DENTAL CLINIC more than 20 years of solid experience in dentistry! Viimsi SPA +372 60 11 812 info@lumen.ee www.lumen.ee
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Already 100 million exceptional bottles. Attention! The abuse of alcoholic beverages can damage your health.
Tallinn Riga Vilnius Helsinki Stockholm Moscow Kiev Berlin Amsterdam Copenhagen Tokyo London Istanbul Toronto
Source: IWSR 2012
MOST POPULAR
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beauty
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
New second location Hairmail has the new w shop in Lasnamäe called Hairline, rline, which offers professional products roducts for cosmeticians and hairdressers. irdressers. There is also a wide selection of salon furniture. Off course non-professionals will ill find great products to suit theirr every hair and cosmetic needs too! Hairline Osmussaare 8, Tallinn. n. Closed on weekends. s.
Liis Sooäär tells us how to get the shine and moisture back in your hair.
Love Your Hair Getting your locks back into shape for autumn. TEXT: KRISTINA LLUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Long day days spent at the beach relaxing and leave your skin are relax n with a nic nice golden brown colour. ur. For you your ur hair however, th the he bee sun can b drying and and damaging. damaging g. The BalBalltic Guide Guid de met up up
with Liis Sooäär at Hairmail, who told us about a few great products to bring the shine and moisture back into your hair. L’Oreal L has just introduced int roduced a n new product duc ct line called d Mythic Oil. Oil l. These
The Royal Treatment Feel right at home at Ilukroon beauty salon. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Ilukroon, or beauty crown as it translates into English recently moved this summer to a more convenient city centre location. “We have moved into our new space and settled right in. You won’t miss the bright pink sign outside either,” explains Ahti Aavik, owner and manager at Ilukroon. I had my haircut at Ilukroon, along with a moisturising hair mask. My stylist, Vaido told me, “After the summer it’s important to moisturise your hair, as it tends to dry out from sun exposure.” The before and after fee-
ling of my hair was astonishing. It wasn’t until after, when I ran my fingers through my silky soft hair that I realised just how dry it had been. Vaido has been cutting hair for two years now, and already has a long list of regular clients that have followed him to Ilukroon’s new location. “We like to have fun with our clients, and make sure they are enjoying their time while they are here. We are chatty, we want to hear about your day,” Ahti told me as I was waiting for my mask to set. Ilukroon only uses top salon products like Wella and Sebastian for hair colouring and
washing. But you won’t notice this in the price. Hair cutting and styling prices are very reasonable and competitive. “We want to offer top quality services, but at an affordable price,” explains Ahti. In addition to hairstyling, Ilukroon also offers other salon procedures. Facials, manicures and pedicures, waxing, and a long list of massages are on offer. Book your appointment in advance, but walk-ins are also welcome. ■
Location Ilukroon Rävala ilusalong Rävala pst.7, Tallinn B2.
products contain gold powder that promises to make your hair shine, while lightly moisturising it. (Shampoo 250ml 14; Conditioner (Shampo 190ml 19 19,20) Chroma Care, also from L’Oreal Chrom helps re-tone and moistuhe rise your coloured hair. ri Available in six different Av shades, Chroma Care is a sh mask that will keep your hair ma colour looking its brightest col for four to six weeks. (Hair mask 150ml 17,50) mas Your hair may be moistuYo rised, but it’s still frizzy. Liss rised Unlimited has the solution, Unlim a 72 hour h anti-frizz shampoo, conditioner and mask. (Shamcondi
poo 250ml 11,50; Conditioner 150ml 13,70; Mask 200ml 16,80) Argan Oil is a top quality product at a very reasonable price. Suitable for all hair types this product line moisturises and restores sundamaged hair. (Shampoo 1L 7,20; Mask 1L 7,20; Serum 100ml 8,40) Schwarzkopf has a new keratin-based line for beach-damaged hair. It moisturises and gives hair that silky soft feeling once again. (Shampoo 200ml 12,90; Conditioner 150ml 13,80; Mask 150ml 14,55) ■
Location Hairmail Rotermanni 8, Tallinn A2.
nightlife
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I DE E ™™ OOCCT TOOB BE ER R 2 20 01 13 3 T THHE E B BAAL LT TI CI C GGUUI D
discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si all the must-see about the u o y lls te la h a M When you've seen sa ative Maarja-Lii n n n lli Ta . e if tl h ig n l unges in town! colourfu lo d n a s, b lu c s, b u p best gigs,
Grab your sweater and head to the Old Town for an unforgettable night out! October is here and it’s time to take out your raincoats and warm hats. With the long and cold winter is on its way, the best place to meet cheerful and friendly people is a cosy Irish pub. In Tallinn there are three different Irish pubs, so don’t depend on the luck of the Irish for a great night out - go and make it happen! ■ MAD MURPHY’S
The Dubliner.
Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
The Dubliner is popular among tourists and locals alike.
■ THE DUBLINER Irish pubs are legendary and exist not only in Ireland but also in almost every country in the world. They are certainly never boring or quiet. The Dubliner is one of these pubs. Guinness and Jamieson will be flowing, along
Estonian Music
with delicious meals to soak it all up –all that, you can do in front of a large-screen TV so as not to miss a match. Come alone or with friends and bring that little bit of Irish spirit out to party!
Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Mad Murphy’s is a great place to enjoy a pint of beer, along with a little bit of live music. If you’re a big sports fan they have a big screen so you could support your favourite teams. They claim to have the biggest whiskey collection of any bar in town and you should keep an eye out for daily happy hour specials. You can throw your birthday or company parties there but don’t forget – a little touch O’ Madness will come along.
on the weekend it’s wise to book a table). It’s open into the early morning hours so come and enjoy a pint or two before
heading out, or visit for a nightcap after. ■
Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3. Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
■ SHAMROCK Shamrock is a really popular place among tourists of every age. Enjoy karaoke almost every night and a large-screen TV for sports, meaning it’s usually pretty packed (if you plan to visit with a big group and
Shamrock has both international and local beers.
Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
OTT LEPLAND
Ott Lepland was a child star who came back to the Estonian music scene after winning Estonian Idol in 2009. Since then he has gained wide popularity and won all the hearts of Estonians. Ott is a really genuine person and he shows it with his beautiful profound music. He has an incredibly strong voice that won him 6th place in the European Song Contest with the song “Kuula” that he wrote himself. Ott is also an amazing pianist and has released three studio albums.
www.fullhouseagency.com
Deja Vu is a great place to meet your friends.
TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ OOCCTTOOBBEERR 22001133
nightlife
LOCAL FAVOURITES IN THE OLD TOWN! ■ CLUB VENUS
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Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:
Photo: Club Venus
Venus opened in January 2000 and is located in an old fire brigade house. The club is open seven days a week ensuring a party no matter the day of the week. At the beginning of the week you can enjoy free entry, and from 11pm until midnight it’s happy hour --drinks and tickets are 50 off! Don’t let this great opportunity go to waste for a memorable night out!
Sports
G-punkt
Clayhills
X-baar
Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1 Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2
Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2
Tatari 1, Tallinn
Karaoke Gelsomino Karaoke Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1
Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Roseni 13, Tallinn A2
The Shamrock Pub Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3
Cigar Lounges Chicago 1933
Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.
La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1
Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2
■ LABOR
Nightclubs Arena 3 Sadama 6, Tallinn A3
The Bank Club 777 Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3
Bibabo Vabaduse väljak 1 0, Tallinn Old Town J1
Labor is a really unique bar with a great location on the main pub street in the heart of the Old Town. The name of the pub means “laboratory” and gives you the feeling of being a scientist who likes to test different things – for example smoking cocktails, special knockouts and test tube shots. The prices are some of the best in the Old Town. On the weekend take advantage of happy hour until 11pm where all the drinks are half price (from Sunday until Tuesday it’s for the whole night) so let the experimentation begin!
Estonian
CatHouse
Karja Kelder
Club Hollywood
Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3
Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2
Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
Live Music
Suur-Karja 10, Tallinn Old Town I2. Party at Club Venus seven days a week.
■ NIMETA Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
H3
Photo: Maarja-Liisa Mahla
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.
■ DEJA VU Lounge Deja Vu, a late night restaurant, has a really cosy atmosphere and does everything to make you feel welcome. Customers’ comfort and service quality is extremely important for them so they try to offer you the best food, rich drink menus and various entertainment. On the weekend the best DJs will be spinning so grab your friends and have a blast! ■
Vana-Viru 8, Tallinn Old Town.
Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn
Drink Baar
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3
Nimeta is one of the biggest sports bar in Tallinn. They have two large-screen and 14 smaller TVs where they show sports every night. Nimeta bar is popular among tourists and locals alike –a meeting place where you can just chill for a bit or practise your best dance moves. It’s known for its reasonable drink prices and attentive staff. Check it out!
Gay
Lets the experimentation begin at Labor.
Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2
Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1
Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Panoraam Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2
Café Amigo
Parlament
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2
Chicago 1933
Partei
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3
Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2
Clazz
Plub
Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3
Guitar Hunt
Tapper
Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn
Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn
NYC Piano Bar
Teater
Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1
Rock Café
Vabank
Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn
Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1
Von Krahl
Venus
Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1
Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
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– Tallinn nightlis,fepubs, the best club and more Fall fashion – this season’s s hottest style Estonian restaurants – where to try local cuisine
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museum
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)
■ Museums
Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20
Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Adamson-Eric Museum
Kadriorg Art Museum
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18
Art history
Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace
Two great exhibits to visit this month.
Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17
TEXT: BART C. PUSHAW, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30
TARTU ■ Museums Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30
Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16
Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15
Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)
Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18
Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19
Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)
Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
Location Adamson-Eric Museum Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town I1. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The Denizens of the Estonia Theatre in Fine Arts on display until 24 November 2013. Kadriorg Art Museum Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn B4. Closed Mondays. When the Artist Met Clio: Historical Scenes from the Nineteenth Century on display until 9 March 2014. Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)
Temporary exhibitions Boris Vildé and the French Resistance (Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle)
Letters to Sala (the French Children of the Holocaust Foundation)
Forest Brothers
MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn www.okupatsioon.ee muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00
Old Observatory (Tähetorn) Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)
Tallinn City Museum branch museums: includes the following
www.linnamuuseum.ee
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Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18
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City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum) Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17
■ Art Museums & Galleries
■ Art Museums & Galleries
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)
Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)
Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)
Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18
In conjunction with the 100-year anniversary of the Estonia Theatre, the AdamsonEric Museum is housing an exhibit called “The Denizens of the Estonia Theatre in Fine Arts.” The artworks on view are mainly portraits of various cultural figures associated with the Estonia Theatre from its beginning in 1906 throughout the twentieth century. Portraits by top Estonian artists such as Ants Laikmaa, Nikolai Triik, Felix Randel, and Johannes Greenberg are some of the exhibition’s highlights. Along with each work is a description not only of the person in the photo, but their most well known performances at the Estonia. The second floor also has an array of books documenting the history of the Estonia Theatre as well as the opportunity to listen to opera performances of its most well known singers, including excerpts by beloved opera singer Georg Ots. “The Denizens of the Estonia Theatre in Fine Arts” proves the strength of Adamson-Eric Museum, as a continued site for some of the most innovative art exhibitions in Tallinn. The exhibit is open until 24 November 2013. A turn towards an older era of art has also taken place across Tallinn in Kadriorg, where the Kadriorg Art Museum is currently featuring the exhibit “When the Artist Met Clio: Historical Scenes from the Nineteenth Century”. The exhibit focuses on history paintings by mainly Baltic German, Estonian, Latvian, and Russian artists,
but also artists from elsewhere. The focus on the nineteenth century is a welcome change both for the Kadriorg Art Museum, which typically focuses on the early modern era, as well as within the KUMU system as well, which has a tendency to focus primarily on the twentieth century. History buffs should try to stop by and see the exhibit at Kadriorg by 9 March 2014. ■
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Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00
Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18
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1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003. The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00 Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, 5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street 7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers’ museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas
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transport
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
tram routes
Car Hire
1 2
KOPLI
You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:
KALAMAJA
PELGURANNA
PORT A, B terminals D terminal
PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same MERIMETSA ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
VIRU OLD TOWN
1 3
KADRIORG
There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on
SIKUPILLI
driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. VEERENNI BUS
STATION
Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee
2 4 ÜLEMISTE
■ Getting to and from Tallinn
AIRPORT
3 4 TONDI
TALLINN CITY TOUR
PIRITA
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.
LASNAMÄE
KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN
ROCCA AL MARE
Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com
PORT
OLD TOWN
MERIMETSA VEERENNI
KADRIORG
SIKUPILLI
Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee
■ BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee
■ Taxis Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.
From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2, bus no. 17, no. 23
Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
■ BY TRAIN: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town
■ BY AIR::
Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.
■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,
wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.
Emergency Numbers: PU H E L I N N UPhone MERO T : P O L IPOLICE I S I 1 1 0 110, , P E LEMERGENCY A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 , AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).
Parking Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially during working hours. Public parking on city streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour, depending on the area. Blue parking signs will tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some areas, including the Old Town require you
to be for parking at night. Parking passes can by purchased from machines or kiosks. Remember to leave your parking clock (or a written note) indicating the time when you first parked.
■ BY SEA: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee
Lennart Meri eri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) nnujaam) Tartu mnt 101, 01, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport. n-airport. ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.
around Estonia
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 3
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Don’t forget, there’s a lot to see outside of Tallinn too! Take a look at some of the unique destinations outside of Estonia’s capital. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS
Photo: Graham Mitchell
Photo: EAS
Castles The main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital Kuressaare (218km Southwest of Tallinn) is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival and many more events throughout the warmer months. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year. Haapsalu (100km southwest of Tallinn) is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Haapsalu Episcopal Castle in the centre of town. The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia’s most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the window of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love. Rakvere Castle is one of Rakvere’s (100km east of Tallinn) main attractions. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre,
Visit the Old Believers' museum in Kolkja.
the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as an exhibit on the history of weapons. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Narva (211km east of Tallinn) is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva River divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Fortress you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost completely destroyed. Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian
Hermann Castle in Narva
Kihnu Island
Estonia, Soviet architecture, and one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.
Seto Culture South-eastern Estonia is home to the Seto people. Their land today is split between the borders of the neighbouring countries. The Seto people have an Orthodox Christian tradition. Their customs and beliefs are different from the mainstream and one of their recognisable landmarks are the multiple small prayer houses or tsässonad. Värska (270km southeast of Tallinn) is the centre of Seto culture. Here you can find a museum and the Tsäimaja offering trad-
itional food. Seto Kingdom Day takes place on the first Saturday of August in Värska. On that day a king is chosen, as well as best musicians and best food and beverage purveyors.
Old Believers & Peipsi Lake In the 17th century, the Old Believers came to Estonia to avoid Russian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Russian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers living in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Village (213km southeast of Tallinn) to learn more of their fascinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant to have a taste of the onions that this area is known for.
Tallinn Islands Narva Rakvere Kärdla Paide
Kõpu HIIUMAA
Mustvee
Haapsalu
The fast-paced modern world has yet to reach the islands of Estonia. On the smaller islands, including Hiiumaa (155km west of Tallinn), there is the feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. Estonia’s
largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn. Unique nature and preserved folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well. Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu (180km southwest of Tallinn). Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof buildings, including a museum. The many windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places. ■
Lake Peipsi
MUHU
Photo: Toomas tuul
Koguva
Pärnu
Angla
SAAREMAA
Tartu
Viljandi
Kolkja
Kuressaare
Värska KIHNU
Valga
Võru
Setomaa Traditional Seto folk costumes
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useful information
TALLINN
TT H H EE BB AA LL TT II CC GG U U II D D EE ™™ O O CC TT O O BB EE RR 22 00 11 33 Photo: Margus Johanson
www.visitestonia.com
■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies
Tartu
24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282
ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic. Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).
Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.
2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013
Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070
■ Central Post Offices Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town
EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740
FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200
ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711
NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000
TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880
BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100
FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600
IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888
POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206
UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815
BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388
GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590
ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160
PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468
UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700
CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311
GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303
LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850
RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175
CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400
GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560
LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030
SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100
DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400
HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880
NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500
TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere
Event and Concert Tickets
Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina
Phone calls ■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.
■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their most central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2
Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru
Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.
Free Wifi ■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.
Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.
■ Useful Phrases please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?
■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted. Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
Linda Line terminal SEAPLANE HARBOUR
m Sada
Travel Port Terminal A, B, C a
Terminal D
Map of Old Town Train Station Kadriorg park
-
KUMU
Bus Station
AIRPORT (2km) rtu Ta nt m
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Riigipiir, kontrolljoon
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Tartu rahu piir
KĂľvakattega maantee
Territoriaalmere piir
Kruuskattega maantee
ANTSLA Tsooru
Š REGIO 2008 KL-8-026
3 km 1
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ŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167VILJANDIMAA 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'
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26Ëš00'
27Ëš00'
ŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300